From the sea to the skin

How algae adaptations benefit skin & hair? Laure-Anne GILLON Summary

Introduction I - Algae definition II- Types of algaes II - How can they benefit skin & hair Conclusion

How algae adaptations benefit skin and hair - L-A Gillon - SCC Québec 10/23/18 Introduction The world of algaes

Often experienced in “bad situations” (local lakes, green swimming pools, fishing holes, sea algaes when swimming,...) Primary importance: . Ecological role as oxygen producer . Food base for almost all aquatic life . Economically important as a source of crude oil Kombu . Source of food, pharmaceutical & industrial products for humans

...For food: ...Algae contents: . high protein content, vitamins & . agar, carrageenans,... Wakame minerals,... 100 species of marine algaes . can also be used as stabilizer consumed, especially in Asia. in food, paint, even cosmetic… . Main ones: brown kelps [Laminaria sp. . Mostly produced in Chile & (Kombu) & Undaria pinnatifida (Wakame)] & red Asia algae [Porphyra sp.(Nori) & Gracilaria sp.] Nori

Sources:https://www.veggie.news/2017-08-24-kombu-sources-health-ben → Why Algae can be so interesting for industry ? efits-nutrients-uses-and-constituents-at-naturalpedia-com.html https://www.flickr.com/photos/fotoosvanrobin/3644416895 https://www.sushi.com/articles/what-is-nori

How algae adaptations benefit skin and hair - L-A Gillon - SCC Québec 10/23/18 Introduction The algae productivity

Productivity of brown seaweeds is 6 to 10 times higher than land plants such as corn or sugar cane

Brown seaweed Sugar Cane Corn 250 T © H- BIOTECHMARINE – FOTOLIA - GOODSHOOT 30 T 22 T Dry matter/Hectare Dry matter/Ha Dry matter/Ha

How algae adaptations benefit skin and hair - L-A Gillon - SCC Québec 10/23/18 Introduction The algae diversity

A WORLD TO EXPLORE!

13000 Only macroalgaes 50 of them identified used in cosmetics

in the world ®BIOTECHMARINE

How algae adaptations benefit skin and hair - L-A Gillon - SCC Québec 10/23/18 I. Algae definition

How algae adaptations benefit skin and hair - L-A Gillon - SCC Québec 10/23/18 I. Algae definition How to define an algae

"Algae" is a general term covering diversified organisms capable of producing oxygen through photosynthesis.

Their photosynthetic pigments are more varied than those of plants, and their cells have features not found among plants & animals. Algaes are: - Eukaryotic organisms (with nucleus). Differentiates them from bacterias. - Autotrophs and more specifically photoautotrophs (use of light energy to generate nutrients).

Differentiates them from protozoa and fungi. But can also be heterotrophs (can need some

®BIOTECHMARINE outside nutrients) → mixotrophy

How algae adaptations benefit skin and hair - L-A Gillon - SCC Québec 10/23/18 I. Algae definition Photosynthesis ability

SEAWEEDS use:

. CO2 + Water + light → organic substances through photosynthesis

. Inorganic nutrients issued of water (N,P,C, Si,...)

. Minerals salts

© BIOTECHMARINE

Source: www.ck12.org

How algae adaptations benefit skin and hair - L-A Gillon - SCC Québec 10/23/18 I. Algae definition What makes them different from plants?

Unlike plants, algaes do not have tissue differentiation: - no true roots, stems or leaves - no vascular system for water circulation - no multicellular reproductive structures (plants always contain fertile gamete-producing cells surrounded by sterile cells), but reproduction by spore or cell division.

Algaes are simple organisms (unicellular or more complex) which makes them able to evolve faster, survive in a wide diversity of environments & under numerous stresses. ex: Fast adaptation to climate change: with higher t°, water acidification leads to smaller algaes in size, dividing faster & producing more biomass.

Colony of complex algaes: Volvox How algae adaptations benefit skin and hair - L-A Gillon - SCC Québec 10/23/18 I. Algae definition Wide diversity

ASPECT

.Size: microscopic or macroscopic. For example: Picoplankton are between 0.2 to 2 micrometers in diameter, while the fronds of giant kelp are as large as 60 meters (200 feet) in length.

.Complexity: Unicellular (diatoms) or multicellular, can form colonies.

Cells are generally similar, but some are differentiated for reproduction & for other functions. (Ex: air bladders to float)

.Shape: filamentous, tubular, meshed, membranous,...

.Colour: green, red, brown & blue ®HEOS MARINE - BIOTECHMARINE (depending on the pigments content). Seaweeds refer to macroscopic, Was first criteria used to classify the algaes. multicellular algaes.

How algae adaptations benefit skin and hair - L-A Gillon - SCC Québec 10/23/18 I. Algae definition Wide diversity

HABITAT

. The majority of algaes lives in . Algaes can endure ranges of temperatures, oxygen or carbon dioxide concentrations, aquatic habitats: freshwater & acidity, turbidity, osmotic & water pressures,

saltwater. waves,... Some are also able to survive on Example: Giant kelps are found more than 200 . land, or unexpected places: tree meters below the polar ice sheets, while the trunks, animal fur, snow banks, hot unicellular green algal species Dunaliella salina is found in very salty (hypersaline) environments ®BIOTECHMARINE springs, desert,... such as the Dead Sea.

SYMBIOTIC RELATIONSHIPS

Example: Some algaes can form symbiotic relationships with other organisms,for example non One provides the other provides photosynthetic ones (sponges, mollusks, fungi,...). an energy source a new habitat

How algae adaptations benefit skin and hair - L-A Gillon - SCC Québec 10/23/18 II. Types of algaes

How algae adaptations benefit skin and hair - L-A Gillon - SCC Québec 10/23/18 II. Types of Algaes Micro-algae: a huge marine source

MICRO-ALGAE are also known as phytoplankton

. Unicellular: exist individually or in chains or groups. . 5 µm (Chlorella) to >100 µm (Spirulina) . Mobility in water . Extreme diversity but less than 30,000 are described in literature & only few are used.

. Produce 50% of the Earth oxygen, but marine vegetal biomass is weaker than terrestrial one as marine predation use quickly the micro-algaes production (phytoplankton, zooplankton, fishs ..) source: http://www.ecology.com/2011/09/12/important-organism/ . Strong intrinsic productivity of micro-algae, up to 10 times Estimation of 200,000 those of terrestre one (100t/ha/year) to 1 million species & this new .Production facilities being under the scope of many companies world is being more explored

How algae adaptations benefit skin and hair - L-A Gillon - SCC Québec 10/23/18 II. Types of Algaes Macroalgaes

13,000 marine species all over the world (50 species used in cosmetics)

. Old & large vegetal group . Well localized production, lives under environmental fluctuations . Commonly seen on the seashores, they cover most of . Easy to harvest aquatic & not deep fields (salted or not water) as they need light for . Biomass (different to terrestrial one) photosynthesis. rich in water, polysaccharides, sulfated ingredients,

. They grow primarily in the anti-microbial ingredients,... intertidal zone (the area that is above water at low tide and under water at high . Capacity to filtrate water & tide)

to concentrate its elements. ®BIOTECHMARINE

How algae adaptations benefit skin and hair - L-A Gillon - SCC Québec 10/23/18 II. Types of Algaes > Green Macroalgaes

CHLOROPHYTA group, 8000 sp.

. Green macro algae: small & thin-layered algae found towards the top of the water column, mainly in fresh water.

. Pigments: chlorophyll a & b (give its green color), α, β-carotene, lutein

. Generally rich in minerals (Ca-Mg-PH-),

stores polysaccharides (ulvan, glucuronic acid, fucoidan)

. Expected to secrete less bioactives than brown & red algae, with less 300 molecules identified up-to-date.

. Mainly terpenoids as secondary metabolites ®HEOS MARINE - BIOTECHMARINE

How algae adaptations benefit skin and hair - L-A Gillon - SCC Québec 10/23/18 II. Types of Algaes > Red Macroalgaes

RHODOPHYTA group, 3700 sp.

. Pigments: chlorophyll a,d; a, phycoerythrin, phycocyanin (phycobiliproteins), α, β-carotene.

. Phycoerythrin pigment reflects red light & absorbs blue light (penetrating water to a greater depth). → Red algae can photosynthesize & live at greater depths.

. Particularly rich in phycocolloids (especially agar agar, carrageenans), vitamins

. Expected to secrete many bioactives & secondary metabolites (terpenoids, alkaloids, polyphenols…), with more than 1500 molecules already identified:

> All bioactives are present except phlorotannins > Main bioactives are isoprenoide & acetogenin

®HEOS MARINE - BIOTECHMARINE

How algae adaptations benefit skin and hair - L-A Gillon - SCC Québec 10/23/18 II. Types of Algaes > Brown Macroalgaes

PHAEOPHYTA group, 1500 sp.

. Brown macroalgae, known as kelp shades, tend to be very large & olive green or brown in colour due to abundance of fucoxanthin in the plastids.

. Pigments: chlorophyll a & c, fucoxanthin, β-carotene, lutein

. Generally rich in hydrocolloids (special algae sugars), polyphenols, iodine.

. Expected to secrete many bioactives & secondary metabolites

such as terpenoids, alkaloids,polyphenols

. Complex anatomy: only superficial cells are photosynthetic

. The most evolved category (endosymbiosis of red/green algaes), → the more content. ®HEOS MARINE - BIOTECHMARINE

How algae adaptations benefit skin and hair - L-A Gillon - SCC Québec 10/23/18 III. How can algae benefit skin & hair?

How algae adaptations benefit skin and hair - L-A Gillon - SCC Québec 10/23/18 III. How algae benefits skin & hair Stressful environment leading to adaptation

ALGAE are facing many STRESSES

1. Light 2. Wind & Tides 3. Salinity exposure Avoid dessiccation, Osmotic stress UV protection dryness reduction

5. Herbivores 4. Waves 6. Epiphyte attacks Elasticity & firmness, Protective effect cell cohesion Protecting enzymes

How algae adaptations benefit skin and hair - L-A Gillon - SCC Québec 10/23/18 III. How algae benefits skin & hair Seashore distribution of some algaes from Brittany

HIGH TIDE LOW TIDE

®BIO MARA School book, p.71

How algae adaptations benefit skin and hair - L-A Gillon - SCC Québec 10/23/18 III. How algae benefits skin & hair 1. Light exposure

> Green > Brown Full spectrum of sunlight Algae Algae

Wavelenght (nm)

Absorption (sea water) > Red > Blue Algae Algae GREEN algae

Light is absorbed by In depth, chlorophylls sea water, depending are not enough efficient

BROWN algae on the depth. for the photosynthesis.

© BIOTECHMARINE Seaweeds have synthesized RED algae complementary pigments in order to help the chlorophyll ones

How algae adaptations benefit skin and hair - L-A Gillon - SCC Québec 10/23/18 III. How algae benefits skin & hair 1. Light exposure: UV protection

Laminaria ochroleuca THE “GOLDEN SEAWEED”

Laminaria ochroleuca is a brown alga, that looks like Laminaria digitata, but is typically found at lower depths. Living at low depths, requires few energy to do the photosynthesis. During low tides, they are exposed to the full solar spectrum, and receive exceeding irradiances, that can cause strong degradations. → They develop photo-adaptive mechanisms to minimize damage by solar radiation.

®BIOTECHMARINE

How algae adaptations benefit skin and hair - L-A Gillon - SCC Québec 10/23/18 III. How algae benefits skin & hair 1. Light exposure: UV protection

The inspiration

If seaweed protects itself from UV, it might concentrate Laminaria ochroleuca molecules to protect the skin against UV... The skin effects DNA protection against UV stress IN VIVO: With Laminaria ochroleuca extract, depth wrinkle - 9% after 2M . [In vivo test]: Immediate Soothing effect & Anti-inflammatory properties .Photo-aging protection:

• Its ability to inhibit the formation of “Sun Burn Cells” led by UV,

• Its cell protection with global action on the denditric cells & DNA, its capacity to protect & strengthen the hydrolipidic balance of the skin,

. [Vivo studies] to emphasize its moisturizing & anti-wrinkle properties ®HEOS MARINE - BIOTECHMARINE

How algae adaptations benefit skin and hair - L-A Gillon - SCC Québec 10/23/18 III. How algae benefits skin & hair Stressful environment leading to adaptation

ALGAE are facing many STRESSES

1. Light 2. Wind & Tides 3. Salinity exposure Avoid dessiccation, Osmotic stress UV protection dryness reduction

5. Herbivores 4. Waves 6. Epiphyte attacks Elasticity & firmness, Protective effect cell cohesion Protecting enzymes

How algae adaptations benefit skin and hair - L-A Gillon - SCC Québec 10/23/18 III. How algae benefits skin & hair 3. Wind, tides: Example of a tide in Brittany, France

How algae adaptations benefit skin and hair - L-A Gillon - SCC Québec 10/23/18 III. How algae benefits skin & hair 2. Wind, tides: Avoid dessiccation, dryness

Pelvetia canaliculata

. Pelvetia canaliculata is a brown seaweed of 2-4 inches, living on rocks, at the higher level of tide, where they form a belt that marks the upper horizon of the middle continental shelf.

. At low tide, it’s exceptionally resistant to water shortage and desiccating effect of wind & sunlight because of its high water holding capacity.

. High source of rare sugars (ex.: fucose, mannitol, volemitol…). It also contains various amino acids such as glutamic acid and alanine as main ones.

Its composition gives the Algae its exceptional regeneration properties

How algae adaptations benefit skin and hair - L-A Gillon - SCC Québec 10/23/18 III. How algae benefits skin & hair 3. Wind, tides: Avoid dessiccation, dryness

How algae adaptations benefit skin and hair - L-A Gillon - SCC Québec 10/23/18 III. How algae benefits skin & hair 2. Wind, tides: Avoid dessiccation, dryness

The inspiration

If Pelvetia canaliculata can regenerate & capt water, Pelvetia canaliculata it can be rejuvenating & moisturizing for the skin too. The skin effects

. Boost matrix organization: .Enhance the volume: +18% collagen, +19% hyaluronic acid, +25% proteoglycans +26% GAGs

.IN VIVO: -16% total wrinkle surface (after 42 days)

® HEOS MARINE - BIOTECHMARINE

How algae adaptations benefit skin and hair - L-A Gillon - SCC Québec 10/23/18 III. How algae benefits skin & hair 2. Wind, tides: Avoid dessiccation, dryness

The hair effects

Pelvetia canaliculataSugars from Pelvetia canaliculata combined with wood sugars.

. Deep moisturization of hair fiber

. Regulation of the water flow by closing the scales

→ Immediate improvement of shine & softness

→ Repairing effect

. Curl definition, shine

& softness

→ Tested in on Caucasian & Brazilian hair types

→ Works after 1 application

® SEPPIC- BIOTECHMARINE of leave-on or rinse-off product

How algae adaptations benefit skin and hair - L-A Gillon - SCC Québec 10/23/18 III. How algae benefits skin & hair 2. Wind, tides: Avoid dessiccation, dryness

IN VIVO: Curl hydration leave-on spray EU07442 (lotion) Shine & Curl definition on Brazilian Hair with Pelvetia canaliculata extract vs. Placebo

Evaluation of the cosmetic qualities of hair by 2 trained hairdressers on a scale from 0 to 10 after one application on half-head of 24 Brazilian volunteers with tight curly hair

7.5

5

Pelvetia canaliculata extract instantly boosts the shine & reshapes the curl of tight curly hair (vs. Placebo)

How algae adaptations benefit skin and hair - L-A Gillon - SCC Québec 10/23/18 III. How algae benefits skin1 & hair 2. Wind, tides: Avoid dessiccation, dryness

Chondrus crispus

. A red seaweed living in deep water, submitted to extreme environmental conditions (UV exposure, dry conditions at low tide). It concentrates carrageenans for a better water retention & avoid desiccation.

. It grows on the coastal strip & up to about 20 meters (65 feet) below mean sea level, according to the movement waves, the transparency & the available rock structure.

. Usually, these species are abundant since the lower zone to supralittoral area (upper part).

. They grow particularly well on large boulders & rocks prefer horizontal surfaces. Growth peaked at the end spring & summer. (Source: McHugh, 2003)

Its composition gives the Algae

®HEOS MARINE- BIOTECHMARINE its exceptional ability of water retention

How algae adaptations benefit skin and hair - L-A Gillon - SCC Québec 10/23/18 III. How algae benefits skin and hair 2. Wind, tides: Avoid dessiccation, dryness

The inspiration

Chondrus crispus If Chondrus crispus resists to the dryness at low tide thanks to its polysaccharides, it should help the skin moisturization too.

The skin effects

. Moisturization: -27% TEWL in 3h (even after rinsing) . Skin protection against pollution: help to remove particles . Long lasting diffusion of actives

How it works

. Forming a strong protective film on the skin, without any occlusive effect.

. Long-lasting action due to bio-mimetic properties between skin proteins & carrageenans, binding together. ®HEOS MARINE- BIOTECHMARINE

How algae adaptations benefit skin and hair - L-A Gillon - SCC Québec 10/23/18 III. How algae benefits skin & hair 2. Wind, tides: Avoid dessiccation, dryness

Protocol: TEWL reduction 25 volunteers, between 19 & 54 years old with dry skin • Standard application of a cream containing Chondrus crispus extract. • Evaluation of the Trans-Epidermal Water Loss Cream with 2% Chondrus (TEWL) on forearm crispus extract + minerals

TEWL -27% after 3H

* *

*

How algae adaptations benefit skin and hair - L-A Gillon - SCC Québec 10/23/18 III. How algae benefits skin & hair 2. Wind, tides: Avoid dessiccation, dryness

Zone 2 Zone 1 Pollution shield Non-treated Emulsion with zone OLIGOGELINE™ PF Quantity of microparticles on the skin (t2)

Before rinsing residual pollution on...

… skin treated with ...non-treated zone chondrus crispus extract After rinsing Only 35% 78%* of Pictures from volunteer of microparticles microparticles N°6 with average effect removed after rinsing removed (in pixels) after rinsing (in pixels)

Legends

Particles 1µm %** 43 * vs before rinsing, statistically significant (p<0.0001) more particles ** statistically significant (p<0.0001) are removed versus *** protective effect with emulsion containing Chondrus crispus non-treated extract is significant vs placebo (p<0.0134) area***

How algae adaptations benefit skin and hair - L-A Gillon - SCC Québec 10/23/18 III. How algae benefits skin & hair 2. Wind, tides: Avoid dessiccation, dryness

The hair effect

Chondrus crispus Protocol: - 14 days of treatment/ 10 volunteers / 1 application per day - On dull or damaged hair - shampoo authorized twice a week - With Chondrus crispus extract.. - SEM (scanning electorn microscppy) examination after 14 days compared to T0 / Self evaluation questionnaire

“Re-surface” hair shaft after 14 days

. Smoother & more homogeneous hair shaft . More regular & tighter scales . Significant for 8 of the volunteers. ®HEOS MARINE- BIOTECHMARINE

How algae adaptations benefit skin and hair - L-A Gillon - SCC Québec 10/23/18 III. How algae benefits skin & hair Stressful environment leading to adaptation

ALGAE are facing many STRESSES

1. Light 2. Wind & Tides 3. Salinity exposure Avoid dessiccation, Osmotic stress UV protection dryness reduction

5. Herbivores 4. Waves 6. Epiphyte attacks Elasticity & firmness, Protective effect cell cohesion Protecting enzymes

How algae adaptations benefit skin and hair - L-A Gillon - SCC Québec 10/23/18 III. How algae benefits skin & hair 3. Salinity: Osmotic stress reduction

Codium tomentosum THE VELVET SEAWEED

The green algae is rich in:

. Sulfated polysaccharides: Intense hygroscopic power / Biomimetic of the GAGs in skin

. Glucuronic acid: Intense hygroscopic power / Deep moisturization / Reinforces the cutaneous barrier

. Minerals: Ensure an osmotic gradient

. Spongy bounce: Seaweed composed of 85% water & jellifying substances

®BIOTECHMARINE

How algae adaptations benefit skin and hair - L-A Gillon - SCC Québec 10/23/18 III. How algae benefits skin & hair 3. Salinity: Osmotic stress reduction

Codium tomentosum THE VELVET SEAWEED

. Green velvet color: Chlorophyll-pigmented seaweed

. Velvety touch: Soft fuzz of tiny hairs Tomentosum = Latin: “cushion stuffing, such as wool or feathers" Botany: "cottony fuzz composed of fine hairs that conveys an impression of plushness".

. Eaten in certain Asian countries: South Korea, Japan & Indonesia Source of energy for a marine animal: Elysia viridis.

. Ability to heal in just a few seconds:

using a polysaccharide gel that avoids a loss in cytoplasm

. Antioxidant properties

© HAVAUX - BIOTECHMARINE -FOTOLIA

How algae adaptations benefit skin and hair - L-A Gillon - SCC Québec 10/23/18 III. How algae benefits skin and hair 3. Salinity: Osmotic stress reduction

Codium tomentosum This species binds to exposed rocks & grows in natural THE VELVET SEAWEED water cups at the infralittoral. The velvet appearance is due to a microrelief allowing the seaweed to protect itself. Source: Pizzolla, 2007

Constant hydration rate of Codium tomentosum (vs variability of salinity level in sea water)

→ Hydration maintenance in high salinity & high UV exposure conditions

Rockpool © HAVAUX - BIOTECHMARINE -FOTOLIA

How algae adaptations benefit skin and hair - L-A Gillon - SCC Québec 10/23/18 III. How algae benefits skin & hair 3. Salinity: Osmotic stress reduction

The inspiration Codium If seaweed handles osmotic stress, it might protect tomentosum itself against dehydration with specific molecules.

The skin effects

. IN VIVO: immediate & long-lasting hydration with Codium tomentosum extract + 14% after 8H & 24H vs T0, +11% after D28 (corneometry)

. Velvety touch: 86% more softness & 70% more comfort

How it works . Glucuronic acid boosts lipid neosynthesis: increase ceramides & cerebrosides content . Increase skin hygroscopy: retain water inside the skin (NMF) . Increase skin hydrophilicity: enhances the spreading & infiltration of surrounding water ®HEOS MARINE- BIOTECHMARINE

How algae adaptations benefit skin and hair - L-A Gillon - SCC Québec 10/23/18 III. How algae benefits skin & hair 3. Salinity: Osmotic stress reduction

CODIAVELANE™ BG PF

CODIAVELANE™ for hydrophilic improvement with Codium ↗ CAPTURE OF SURROUNDINGtomentosum WATER INTO THE SKIN

Codium tomentosum extract enhances the spreading Measurement & the infiltration of surrounding water (daily care, air) of hydrophilicity (2D imaging) NMF -- NMF ++ Placebo Codium tomentosum D28 extract D28 .40 volunteerswith dry skin (IH<45) .28 days of treatment .2% of Codium tomentosum extract VISUALIZATION: - 15*% (D28 vs. D0) .2 applications/day on forearm .Test of sorption-desorption Dry sponge Wet sponge = Skin NMF -- *p<0.05 (D28 vs. D0)

= Skin NMF ++

Low hydrophilicity High hydrophilicity ↘ spreading ↗ spreading ↘ infiltration ↗ infiltration © HAVAUX - BIOTECHMARINE -FOTOLIA

How algae adaptations benefit skin and hair - L-A Gillon - SCC Québec 10/23/18 III. How algae benefits skin & hair Stressful environment leading to adaptation

ALGAE are facing many STRESSES

1. Light 2. Wind & Tides 3. Salinity exposure Avoid dessiccation, Osmotic stress UV protection dryness reduction

5. Herbivores 4. Waves 6. Epiphyte attacks Elasticity & firmness, Protective effect cell cohesion Protecting enzymes

How algae adaptations benefit skin and hair - L-A Gillon - SCC Québec 10/23/18 III. How algae benefits skin & hair 4. Waves: Elasticity & firmness, cell cohesion

Alaria esculenta

. A brown seaweed that gets its name from its wing-shaped ribbed thallus. . Can grow up to 2 meters long & a few dozen centimeters large. . It lives in extreme conditions, agitated but transparent waters, where sea pressure can exceed 6T/m². . It is made up of a web of elastic fibers (phycopolysaccharides & proteins), which: - preserves tissue integrity against compression & - ensures cohesion & firmness of all the cell architecture (similar role that proteic fibers & elastin

play in the Skin). . Rich in amino acids, antioxidants, vitamins & minerals.

® BIOTECHMARINE . Also contents Omega 3,6 & 9, Phytosterols, essentials for membrane structure.

How algae adaptations benefit skin and hair - L-A Gillon - SCC Québec 10/23/18 III. How algae benefits skin & hair 4. Waves: Elasticity & firmness, cell cohesion

The inspiration

Stress waves are huge. Seaweed might concentrate Alaria esculenta many types of molecules to prevent skin aging (by bringing suppleness for strength).

The skin effects

Anti-aging effect of Alaria esculenta extract:

. +90% firmness improvement by self-evaluation, >Skin elasticity & Skin suppleness How r . Protecting the matrix . Moisturizing/filling

antioxydant, antiradical activities Glycosaminoglycans & Hyaluronic acid synthesis stimulation . Firmness & elasticity Collagen III synthesis, . Revitalizing/Energizing anti-elastase, ATP Booster / ADP booster / anti-collagenase,... AMP booster ®HEOS MARINE- BIOTECHMARINE

How algae adaptations benefit skin and hair - L-A Gillon - SCC Québec 10/23/18 III. How algae benefits skin & hair 4. Waves: Elasticity and firmness, cell cohesion

Protocol: Assessment of the efficacy of a cream - Study during 28 days, on 20 subjects with periorbital wrinkles - Average age: 50 years old containing Alaria esculenta extract, - Cream applied twice a day applied on the crow’s feet area - Measurements with Cutometer

Subject at D0 Subject at D28

CUTOMETER Firmness: +25% & Elasticity: +20%

STUDY of the number of wrinkles of the depth of wrinkles results: & for 65% of the volunteers for 80% of the volunteers © BIOTECHMARINE - FOTOLIA

How algae adaptations benefit skin and hair - L-A Gillon - SCC Québec 10/23/18 III. How algae benefits skin & hair Stressful environment leading to adaptation

ALGAE are facing many STRESSES

1. Light 2. Wind & Tides 3. Salinity exposure Avoid dessiccation, Osmotic stress UV protection dryness reduction

5. Herbivores 4. Waves 6. Epiphyte attacks Elasticity & firmness, Protective effect cell cohesion Protecting enzymes

How algae adaptations benefit skin and hair - L-A Gillon - SCC Québec 10/23/18 III. How algae benefits skin & hair 5. Herbivores attacks: protecting enzymes

Laminaria saccharina (Saccharina latissima)

Laminaria saccharina contains:

. Polyuronide that makes a film with skin proteins for an optimal hydration

. Na+ and K+ ions that help to maintain the osmotic balance

. Anti-oxidizing substances that maintain component stability

® BIOTECHMARINE . Phlorotannins (Polyphenols) which Laminaria saccharina, also named Sugar Seaweed, are key components of brown algae (10 -20% of their dry weight)

Marine Sugar Cane or Royal sugar kelp

How algae adaptations benefit skin and hair - L-A Gillon - SCC Québec 10/23/18 III. How algae benefits skin & hair 5. Herbivores attacks: protecting enzymes

On the infralittoral, snails (gibbules) are commonly eating seaweeds, releasing enzymes on the seaweed surface.

Seaweeds synthesize specific molecules in order to protect themselves from such aggression.

® BIOTECHMARINE ® BIOTECHMARINE

Laminaria saccharina, also named Sugar Seaweed, Sea snail eating seaweed Marine Sugar Cane or Royal sugar kelp

How algae adaptations benefit skin and hair - L-A Gillon - SCC Québec 10/23/18 III. How algae benefits skin & hair 5. Herbivores attacks: protecting enzymes

The inspiration

As the seaweed protects itself against sea snails enzymes, Laminaria saccharina it should protect the skin against other enzymes, such as lipase. The skin effects

Thanks to Laminaria saccharina extract,

. Anti-lipase action: less glycerol & free fatty acid liberation from TG → less inflammation, soothing effect on acne prone skin

D28 . IN VIVO sebum regulation: D0 -29.3% sebum in 28 days (1%, by sebumeter). Visible mattifying effect, shine Confirmed by self-evaluation. is reduced - Volunteer 27 ®HEOS MARINE- BIOTECHMARINE

How algae adaptations benefit skin and hair - L-A Gillon - SCC Québec 10/23/18 III. How algae benefits skin & hair Stressful environment leading to adaptation

ALGAE are facing many STRESSES

1. Light 2. Wind & Tides 3. Salinity exposure Avoid dessiccation, Osmotic stress UV protection dryness reduction

5. Herbivores 4. Waves 6. Epiphyte attacks Elasticity & firmness, Protective effect cell cohesion Protecting enzymes

How algae adaptations benefit skin and hair - L-A Gillon - SCC Québec 10/23/18 III. How algae benefits skin & hair 6. Epiphyte: protecting effect

Acrochaetium moniliforme

Due to its small size, this alga is little known & has been the subject of very little research. French National Museum of Natural History helped to identify the species with BiotechMarine's R&D department. → Little know, hard to harvest in nature, but interesting properties

Acrochaetium monoliforme: . Red macroalgae: able to live in deep depths . Very small size (60μm to 2cm), it’s made of filaments of cells. . Epiphytic macroalgae: Use other algae as a base, lives in contact with its hosts.

Along with many other micro-organisms, it is part of other microorganisms that form a biofilm against external aggressions, e.g. pollution. ® HEOS MARINE - BIOTECHMARINE

How algae adaptations benefit skin and hair - L-A Gillon - SCC Québec 10/23/18 III. How algae benefits skin & hair 6. Epiphyte: protecting effect

Skin protection against pollution Acrochaetium monoliforme

How algae adaptations benefit skin and hair - L-A Gillon - SCC Québec 10/23/18 III. How algae benefits skin & hair 6. Epiphyte: protecting effect

IN VIVO test protocol:

In Vivo: • Study conducted in Shanghai in a polluted environment qualified as "moderate" to "harmful to health" for the duration of the study. PM2.5 is the main criterion for this qualification, Visible sebum reduction according to the Shanghai Air Quality Index.

• 2 groups of 20 women with oily skin (140µg/cm²), from 25 to 60 years old (mean age 35), under pollution application of 1% of the extract, twice a day for 56 days versus placebo, from september to november (to colder season). Collection of sebum at the same times at D0 & D56, in the morning

Sebum reduction by 34% compared with D0, after 56 days • Collection of sebum on a specific inert matrix & (statistically significant), for visible skin benefits. GC-MS analysis.

The placebo had no statistically significant effect compared with D0. The difference in Acrochaetium effectiveness between the extract & the monoliforme placebo is statistically significant.

Measurements throughout the period of study indicate mean microparticle levels (48μg/m3 of PM2.5) 5x higher than the recommendations of the World Health Organization. D0 D56

How algae adaptations benefit skin and hair - L-A Gillon - SCC Québec 10/23/18 Conclusion Conclusion Incredible algaes

At the origin of life but still have a head start on us… Algaes are one of the oldest organisms on the planet, They are at the origin of the photosynthesis, the plants, Biotechnologies animals,... are helping us to get It produces half of the oxygen on earth, is the base food for aquatic life, but also for humans, and will probably be our source the best from algaes, of energy,... but there is still

It has extreme adaptations abilities that can benefit us a world to explore... in many ways especially for personal care: Anti-aging, moisturizing, protecting from UV, soothing, regulating sebum, energizing,...

How algae adaptations benefit skin and hair - L-A Gillon - SCC Québec 10/23/18 Opportunities for the future

. Research can help to identify each specific molecule involved in the skin activity

. Many algae species remained to be identified: Small, rare, hard to harvest but with potentially other interesting properties (deep seas, cold see,...)

. Biotechnologies are still improving to be able to cultivate them, and get the best from them.

. Sustainable sourcing: new technologies & good practices make able to use the algaes while preserving the environment.

How algae adaptations benefit skin and hair - L-A Gillon - SCC Québec 10/23/18 Thank you Any question ? for your attention

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How algae adaptations benefit skin and hair - L-A Gillon - SCC Québec 10/23/18