Numerous wars, terrible fi res and epidemics have left many scars that are still reminding of themselves. More than once has practically disappeared from the face of the Earth. But every time, due to the diligence and selfl ess labour of its citizens the city, like the Phoenix, rose from the ashes and ruins and became still more beautiful and comfortable. No matter what season you come to Minsk: in summer or in winter, in spring or in autumn, and no matter what you fi rst visit here or at what time of the day you may do it, you will always be received with hospitality and friendliness. This tour guide will help you explore the city of Minsk and form your impressions of it.

WE WISH YOU THE MOST PLEASANT IMPRESSIONS OF MINSK AND ITS CITIZENS!

THE AVENUE OF FIVE SQUARES

There are a lot of interesting and beautiful places in Minsk, but its citizens take special pride in Nezalezhnastsi Avenue (Independence Avenue). The modern avenue and the central street of Minsk which is located on the highway – is over two centuries old. Its name has changed 14 times. Many a time it grew in length and width and eventually has become one of the last neo-classical ensembles in the world architecture, becoming one of the longest streets in Europe. That is why Nezalezhnastsi Avenue is a candidate for inclusion into the world cultural and natural heritage of UNESCO. «Avenue» as Minskers call it for short, will most likely be the fi rst to be offered for doing the sights.

NEZALEZHNASTSI SQUARE is the beginning «Government House», built in 1929–1933 upon of the Avenue of the same name 1 . This the project of architect I. Langbard 2 . The square is one of the largest in Europe and central nine-storey part of the building is shifted the most important square in Minsk. It has deep into space by 50 m and is surrounded by rectangular outlines. It is located on the axis side wings that gradually decline to fi ve fl oors west – east and covers an area of 7 hectares. creating the inner square. The Government On the northern side of the square there’s House is one of the few surviving monuments of the biggest building in the pre-war – architecture of the early Soviet constructivism. 5 1

2 3 4 5

6 7 8 9 The conceptual and compositional center of and Alena (St. Simon & Helena) which was built the ensemble of the House of Government is in 1905–1910 upon the project of the Polish the monument to Lenin (sculptor. M. Manizer). architect T. Pojazdzersky with participation of The two-meter-high bronze fi gure of the leader the Italian architect V. Marconi 5 . of the of 1917 in is Citizens of Minsk call the Cathedral the installed on the pedestal with high reliefs on Red Cathedral (Czyrvony Kastsiyol) because each side: «October Revolution», «Defence of the of the peculiar color of the bricks that were Motherland», «Industrialization of the country», specially brought for the construction from «Collectivization of Agriculture». The sculptural the Polish town of Czenstochowa. The cost of composition itself shows Lenin addressing to the construction of the Cathedral was paid by the Red Army units in Moscow on May 5, 1920 Edward and Olympia Voinilovich. The death of when they were seen off to the Western front. their children – Symon and Alena had urged the The inauguration of the monument took place couple to make a proposal to build a Cathedral on November 7, 1933. in Minsk. There is even a legend among Minsk Creating the ensemble of the House of citizens that for the design of the Cathedral the Government I. Langbard also designed a square in architects used a drawing of a beautiful Gothic front of it that was intended for demonstrations cathedral that had been made by the deceased and military parades. In 1964 the square Alena when she was mortally ill. underwent a reconstruction (architect V. Anikin, In 1996, near the Cathedral there appeared engineers I. Shpit and R. Obraztsova) and in the sculpture of Archangel Michael who is the 1991 it got the name of Nezalezhnastsi Square guardian of Belarus (sculptor I. Golubev) 4 . (Independence Square). Today the architectural ensemble of the To the right of the Government House there is Square, except for the buildings of the pre- neo-Gothic Catholic Cathedral of Saint Symon revolutionary construction and the Government 7 House, includes the main building of Belarusian of the Japanese Catholic Church as a gift to the State University (architects M. Baklanov, Belarusian people. A. Dukhan, and engineer N. Moroz, 1962), the At the end of the last century intensive traffi c building of the Minsk City Executive Committee development began to cause problems to the (architects S. Musinsky, G. Sysoyev, 1964) 6 , carrying capacity through the Square. So, in the the engineering building of early 2000s they held special competition with (architects Y. Grigoriev, D. Kudryavtsev, 1984) the aim to fi nd the best architectural solution ( 6 in the background) and the building of according to which movement of vehicles was Belarusian State Pedagogical University (the allowed only in the direction of Nezalezhnastsi new main facade – architects G. Zaborski, Avenue – an overpass, and the rest of the space V. Nikitin, I. Marchenko, engineer Basinkevich, was transformed into a walking area. The socio- 1990) ( 1 the high-rise building to the left). shopping center «Stolitsa» was built under the In September 2000, not far from the Red square. Three bronze storks soaring over an Cathedral there was installed the Nagasaki bell – eared fi eld crown the dome of the square over the a reminder of the victims of nuclear disasters. It socio-shopping centre «Stolitsa» (sculptors O. is an exact copy of the bell «Angel» that remained Kupriyanov and E. Kharaberish) 7 . Round the intact after the atomic bombing of Nagasaki on dome there are the emblems of all the regional 9 August 1945 3 . At the base of the memorial centers of Belarus and a memorial plaque which there are capsules with the soil from Jerusalem, was installed in honor of the reconstruction of the Japanese cities of Hiroshima and Nagasaki Nezalezhnastsi Square and the construction as well as from the areas affected by the of the underground complex (architects Chernobyl catastrophe. «Angel’s» double was M. Gauhfeld, V. Danilov, and V. Nikitin, 2007). The cast by masters of bell casting on the initiative length of the «Stolitsa» is comparable with the 8 height of the Eiffel tower – 334 m, and its area is NEZALEZHNASTSI AVENUE is not just the more than 103 thousand square meters. city's main street that runs through it from west In 2007, near the building of the Committee to east for about 10 miles (more than 15 km). of Architecture and Urban Planning of Minsk It is east it the face of the capital of Belarus, a City Executive Committee 8 there appeared very beautiful and friendly face. The three- a sculpture dedicated to the architects of Minsk kilometer section of the Avenue stretching from of all times who had put their hearts and talent Nezalezhnastsi Square to Peramohi Square into the creation of the architectural appearance (Victory Square) is lined with buildings of the of the city. It has the same name – «Architect» same architectural style that were built upon one (sculptor V. Zhbanov) 9 . comprehensive project of one author's team of Nezalezhnastsi Square abuts on architects for only 10 years (1945–1955). No other Nezalezhnastsi Avenue which begins with country can boast of such a unique approach. two buildings – General Post-Offi ce (architect During World War II the centre of the city was V. Korol, 1953) 11 on the southern side, and the greatly destroyed. In 1944–1945 they organized hotel «Minsk» (architect G. Badanov, 1959) 10 the fi rst all-Union competition for the planning on the northern side. and building of the central architectural ensemble The side streets adjoining the Avenue have in Minsk. On the basis of the competition and preserved the beauty and originality of the pre- the materials of the subsequent elaborations revolutionary buildings in Minsk, the charm of the they worked out a plan of development of the art Nouveau. Theatres, museums, restaurants city’s centre (architechts G. Badanov, V. Korol, and cafes that are hidden in them will hospitably M. Osmolovsky, M. Parusnikov). The city’s centre open wide the doors to their visitors. included the section of Sovetskaya Street – So, let's start a walk along the Avenue. which was the central street of the city – from 9 10 11

12 13 14

15 16 17 Lenin Square to Kruglaya (Round) Square (since № 17, architects M. Parusnikov and G. Badanov, 1954 – Peramohi Square). The street had been 1945–1947) 14 . It was organically connected conceived as the main street. Its total width was with the administrative building in neoclassical 48 m, the width of the carriageway was 24 m, style of the pre-revolutionary period (house № 15, and the width of the pavement was 12 m on architect G. Gai, 1915) 12 . Today it houses the either side. The proportionality of the street Ministry of Internal Affairs of Belarus. Opposite along its whole length was created by the height these buildings there is a public garden in which of the houses which almost coincided with the a bust to the «Iron Felix» – Felix Dzerzhinsky is width of the carriageway. High compositional found – the «father-founder» of the Soviet police quality of the street building was achieved by and national security bodies (sculptor Z. Azgur, contrasting rhythmic alternation of the built-up architect V. Volchek, 1947) 13 . sections of the avenue with squares and other On the corner of Lenin Street and the Avenue open spaces and due to the involvement of there is one of the oldest and most beautiful landscape sections and monumental-decorative shops of Minsk – «GUM» – the Main Universal sculpture. Everything was carefully thought over – Store (architects L. Milega and R. Gegart, 1951) from lamps to refuse bins. Small architectural 15 . In the middle of the ground fl oor of this and sculptural forms of the 1950s – cast-iron four-storey building there are three arched fences, balustrades, benches, vases, lighting front entrance apertures. Stucco, stained glass, masts, beautiful fl ower gardens along the Avenue exquisite lighting made of glass and bronze are have remained up till now. The stylistic nature widely used in the interiors. of this part of the Avenue was determined by Just opposite the GUM the building of the the monumental administrative building of the National Bank of the Republic of Belarus is State Security Committee of Belarus (house located (architect M. Parusnikov, 1947–1952) 17 . 11 18

19 20 21

22 23 24 Close to the bank there is a public garden in richly decorated with sculptures by A. Glebov, which there is a bust to Sergei Gritsevets, V. Popov and S. Selikhanov. The main facade Belarusian pilot, twice Hero of the of the Palace looks on the square. The Palace (sculptor Z. Azgur, architects S. Musinsky and has two halls – a columned hall and a theatre G. Sysoyev, 1955) 16 . hall, the stage of the last one was designed after Impeccable style, quality and durability are the stage of the Bolshoi Academic Theatre in the main properties for which the fi rst section Moscow. of the buildings of Nezalezhnastsi Avenue was In 1964, on the eastern side of the Square, taken under the state protection as a complex of there was erected the building of the Belarusian historical and cultural value. State Museum of History of the Great Patriotic War. The building has huge imprint on the KASTRYCHNITSKAYA SQUARE (October roof of its façade «PEOPLE’S HEROIC EXPLOIT Square) of the capital had a very prosaic name WILL GO DOWN TO POSTERITY» (architects until 1984 – Central Square. The most well G. Benediktov, G. Zaborsky) ( 18 , second on known architects took part in the development the right). 50 years later, in 2014 the Museum of its design. There had been a great number moved to a new building in Pobediteley Avenue of competitive projects of its architectural (architect V.Kramarenko) and became part of the ensemble but they fi nally chose the design made single complex dedicated to the Great Victory. by architects G. Badanov, V. Korol, L. Matskevich, On the western side of the Square they M. Osmolovsky and M. Parusnikov. One of its most erected a residential building with a food store notable buildings became Palace of Culture of on the ground fl oor (architects G. Zaborsky and Trade Unions (architect V. Ershov, 1949–1954) M. Parusnkov, 1954) which later on was called 21 that was built in the style of classicism and «Tsentralny» ( 18 , the fi rst house on the left), 1313 the building of the Minsk Region Executive Old Alexander Public Garden is an ornament Committee (architect V. Volchek, 1958) ( 18 , to the Square. In 1874 the fi rst city fountain the third house to the left and the building of (sculptor Lorenzo Bernini) – «A Boy with a the Central Telegraph – «Beltelecom» today Swan» 26 was opened to mark the start of (architects V. Korol and A. Dukhan, 1962) ( 18 , water-supply from the artesian water springs in the second house on the left). Minsk. It is part of the ensemble of the Square. The architectural ensemble of the Square was On the southern side of the public garden successfully expanded with the District House there’s a block with a six-storey building of of Offi cers 22 (known as Red Army House till the Presidential Administration 25 (the 1946). It was built in 1934–1939 upon the project former building of the Central Committee of the of I. Langbard. In 1952, in honour of the heroism Communist Party of Belarus). Its construction of Soviet tank-men who were the fi rst to rush lasted 8 years: it was begun in 1939, was into Minsk, a legendary tank T-34 «Tank the interrupted by World War II and completed only Liberator» 23 was installed near this building. in 1947 (architects V. Varaksin and А. Voinov). On the turret of the tank there’s a fi ve-pointed In 1890 the building of the City theatre star and the number L-145. On the pedestal there appeared in Alexander Public Garden. The is an inscription: «To the valiant soldiers of the building was built in neo-Baroque style (architect 4th Guards of the Minsk Red Banner, Order of K. Kozlovsky) 27 . In 1920 it was occupied by Suvorov of the II degree tank brigade of the 2nd the troupe of the Belarusian National Theatre Guards of Tatsinsky Red Banner, order of Suvorov which in 1944 was named after Yanka Kupala, of the II degree tank corps, who came fi rst into and in 1955 it got the title of academic theatre. Minsk on July 3, 1944 while liberating Minsk from The building of the theatre is associated German-fascist invaders». with such important events in the history of 14 Belarus as the First All-Belarusian Congress by building a city toilet in the form of a reduced that was held in December 1917, the First All- copy of the house of his enemy. Belarusian Congress of Soviets that took place During the Great Patriotic War the public at the beginning of 1919. In 1958, after its garden lost its carefree character as it had reconstruction, the building of the theatre lost become the place of executions of the Minsk its historical appearance, and only 55 years later, underground fi ghters, which is reminded by the in 2013 it got its historical appearance again as monument erected in the western part of the a result of extensive restoration work. The main public garden on the site of the gallows – barbed façade decorated with rustication, pilasters, wire and traces of bare feet on granite slabs – lucarnes, cornices and high-fi gured attic with a unseen images of the sons and daughters of the number of niches is particularly impressive. The native land who had departed in the immortality central part of the building is distinguished by (sculptor A. Anikeychik, architect L. Levin, 1979) a two-storey projection adjoined by one-storey 24 . wings and ends with a rounded frontal. On the side of the public garden the Square There’s a small stone building close to is surrounded by a granite parapet with a tribune the theatre which now is the box offi ce. It’s (architect E. Zaslavsky, 1957). unbelievable, but this beautiful miniature The fi nal compositional design of the building was erected in 1912 as the fi rst public Square was formed after the completion of the toilet in Minsk. The history of its building is construction of the Palace of the Republic 19 associated with a legend telling that one money- which was built just in the centre of the Square (a bag ordered a young architect a project of the team of architects of the Institute «Belgosproekt» house but did not pay him for his work. The under the guidance of M. Pirogov, 1999). Today angry architect decided to teach the rich man it is the largest public building with a universal 1515 25 26 27

28 29 30

31 32 33 auditorium that seats 2700, a number of small The architectural ensemble of Nezalezhnastsi halls, a press-centre, and a cafe. Between the Avenue is continued by the building of the Palace of the Republic and the old building of the former ecclesiastical Consistory that was built museum there is a decorative and technological in the middle of the XIX century – a monument fountain, and between the fountain and the Palace of architecture with features of classicism (now of Trade Unions there is «Minsk Vernissage» – a it houses the faculty of theology of Belarusian selling exhibition of artworks of Minsk artists. State University) and the building of the former Here you can buy a picture and a souvenir for Ecclesiastical-archeological Museum (architects any taste and any «wallet». V. Struyev and I. Fomin, 1913) 28 – an There is one more attraction in Kastrychnitskaya architectural monument built in pseudo-Russian Square: the sign of «Beginning of the Roads of style. Distinct features of constructivism have Belarus» 20 . A granite stone in the shape of a been saved by the administrative building of the pyramid is a symbol of eternity and strength. The pre-war construction – house № 27 (architect sign is framed by bronze cartouches - memorable G. Yakushko, 1940). Houses № 29 and № 30 signs that contain a map of roads and a Latin (architect M. Barshch, 1957) are also monuments saying, and the lines written by Yakub Kolas: of Soviet civil architecture. «Oh roads, eternal roads!.. There’s neither end, On , 1954, at the crossing of nor break of you, you are alive at any moment». Nezalezhnastsi Avenue and Y. Kupala Street they On the bronze pedestal of the sign there is an began the construction of a new building of the indication of the distance to the capitals of the circus (architect V. Zhukov). The old building had neighboring States, regional and district centers burnt down during the bombing at the beginning of Belarus (sculptor A. Finsky, metal artist of the Great Patriotic War. Originally there was V. Zavedeyev, architect A. Sardarov, 1998). an idea to build a circus on the outskirts of 17 Minsk, but thanks to the efforts of the Opera L. Gumilevsky, A. Zaspitsky, 1972) in Yanka prima Larisa P. Alexandrovsky who was a big fan Kupala Park. of the circus art it was built almost in the center Yanka Kupala stands on a large granite of the city. The round shape of the building is pedestal with a knarred stick in his hand 30 . conditioned by the design of the «stage», that Near the monument there’s a fountain «A is a circular arena with an auditorium, located wreath» with the sculptural composition amphitheatrically, and that’s why all circuses «Kupalye» signifying the culmination moment of the world are recognizable. The Belarusian of the festival – girls let wreaths fl ow in the State Circus 29 was reconstructed (the fountain. In the middle of the park there is Yanka reconstruction was completed in 2011). In front Kupala’s State Literary Museum that was built of the circus there are several funny bronze anew in 1959. The museum was built anew on sculptures «amusing» the public: a dancer on a the site where there used to be the house in horse; a clown; a turtle; a cat and an elephant which Yanka Kupala lived from 1926 until the (sculptor S. Bondarenko, 2011) 29 . beginning of the Great Patriotic War and which Near the circus, on either side of the Avenue burnt down during the war. there are two parks: Central Children’s Park A bronze sculpture on a low stepped named after , on the southern pedestal depicts the young Maxim Gorky in side, and Yanka Kupala Park, on the northern Russian shirt, squatting to rest on a bench 31 . side. From the Avenue one can well see a In his fi gure and the expression of his face one monument to the Great Russian writer (sculptors can see romantic sublimity and nobleness. He is A. Zaspitsky, I. Misko, N. Ryzhenkov, 1981) plunged in deep meditation. in Maxim Gorky Park and a monument to the The parks are separated from one another great Belarusian bard (sculptors A. Anikeychik, not only by the Avenue but also by the River 1818 Svisloch with its most beautiful bridge (architects the Moscow Museum of Revolution helped with M. Parusnikov, G. Badanov, 1951) 32 From here the restoration of the exhibits. Now the House- a beautiful view opens out over the Trinity Hill. Museum is a branch of the National Museum of On the left, over the river there is a neoclassic History and Culture of the Republic of Belarus. building standing on a high hill. The building houses the Ministry of Defense of the Republic of Within one block from the House-Museum Belarus. On its right, there is a residential house there is the third square of Nezalezhnastsi that has a tower with a spire and the building of Avenue – PERAMOHI (VICTORY) SQUARE, the ONT and STV TV-broadcasting companies. which determines its central section 35 . Beyond the bridge over the Svisloch River The architectural ensemble of Kruglaya there is the House-Museum of the 1st Congress (Round) Square (this was the name of the of the Russian Social Democratic Labour Party Square until 1954) began to emerge in the late (RSDLP) 33 . On 13–15 March 1898, in the house 1930-ies when, in accordance with the General of the railway-man Peter Rumyantsev there were plan of 1938, there were built two arc-shaped held meetings of the fi rst constituent congress of multi-storey residential houses facing the center the party which dramatically changed the socio- (completed by architect R. Stoller in 1947). political structure of Russia. In 1923 the House- The further construction of the Square was Museum of the First Congress of the RSDLP was carried out according to the General plan of opened in this house. In the wartime, the building 1946 (architects N. Androsov, N. Trachtenberg with all of the exhibits was destroyed during the and others). In 1950 – 1956 the residential bombing in June 1941. After World War II the houses were built (architects M. Barshch, L. and building of the House-Museum was renovated G. Aranauskas). In 1954 the form of the square on the basis of the pre-war photographs, and was somewhat changed (architect G. Zaborski). 1919 34 35

36 37 38

39 40 41 The dominant feature of the Square is the oval, and granite blocks dedicated to the hero- Monument to Victory – a 38-meter granite cities were installed next to the monument. obelisk 36 crowned with the Order of Victory Under-ground, the base of the monument was 34 (architects G. Zaborski, V. Korol, sculptors surrounded by a ring bypass gallery leading to Z. Azgur, A. Bembel, A. Glebov, S. Selikhanov, the memorial hall to the lost heroes 40 – 41 . 1954). On the four sides of the pedestal of the In the center of the hall there’s a wreath of glass monument there are bronze high reliefs: «9 May (artist V. Poznyak) 39 . A bronze image of the 1945» 38 , «Soviet Army in the years of the Great star of Hero of the Soviet Union and plates with Patriotic War», «Belarusian Partisans», «Glory the names of 566 natives of Belarus and other to the fallen heroes». The four bronze wreaths republics who had participated in the liberation around the obelisk symbolize the four fronts the of the Belarusian land and who had been fi ghters of which participated in the liberation of awarded the title of Hero of the Soviet Union for the Republic from German fascist invaders. The their exploits were secured on the wall. unveiling of the monument was dedicated to Going up to the crossing with Kozlov Street the 10-th anniversary of the liberation of Belarus Nezalezhnastsi Avenue «rises» to Zolotaya Gorka from German-fascist invaders and was held on (the Golden Hill) – one of the oldest suburbs of 3 July 1954. On July 3, 1961, the day of the 17th Minsk located on a hilly upland close to (Dolghi anniversary of the liberation of Minsk, the Eternal Brod) the Long Ford – an overpass through a fl ame 37 was lit at the Victory monument. small river called the Slepnya. In 1984 the Square was re-planned by There have been several legends associated architects B. Larchenko, B. Shkolnikov, K. Vyazgin with the name of the place. In the old days a because of the commissioning of Minsk metro. terrible epidemic of cholera broke out in Minsk It changed its shape by turning from round to which lasted almost a year. The epidemic carried 21 42 43 44

45 46 47

48 49 off the lives of hundreds of people. After the was built there. It was built of stone. In the funeral of the next victim of the epidemic, the 1940-ies the cemetery was demolished. It’s only priest took off his robe, spread it on the ground the memorial plaque on the wall separating the and threw a gold coin on his robe. Everyone territory of the temple from the courtyard of who had survived the epidemic in the city would the residential house and several gravestone come to the place and throw coins on the robe. monuments that remind us of the cemetery. The Soon a hill of gold coins was formed there. The Church is «hidden» from Nezalezhnasti Avenue collected money helped to build a wooden chapel by the dwelling-house with a colonnade in honor of St. Roch – the defender of people and (architect M. Barshch) 42 and the Palace of animals from different diseases and epidemics. Arts (architects N. Kravkova and S. Musinsky, And in commemoration of the fundraising the 1973) 44 which is used as an exhibition hall. locality was called the Golden Hill. However Only two of the pre-war buildings of the Golden there also exists a very prosaic explanation of Hill district have survived – dwelling-houses № 43 the area’s name. A beautiful birch forest grew and № 45 (architect G. Yakushko, 1937–1939) on the hill the foliage of which would become of 48 . The houses combine two architectural golden color in the autumn and be visible from styles – constructivism and neoclassicism. The afar, which gave the name – the Golden Hill. southern side of this section of the avenue Historically it is a reliable fact that in 1796 was built up with dwelling houses (architect a wooden chapel was built on the newly M. Barshch) which stylistically didn’t violate the founded Golden Hill Cemetery where a statue rhythm of the remained pre-war buildings 49 . of St. Roch, found in the ruins of one of the Today it’s only the name itself that reminds monasteries, was transferred later. In 1861– us of the old Long Ford suburb. The section of 1864, Trinity Catholic Church of St. Roch 43 Kozlov Street starting from the place where once 2323 50

51 52 53

24 54 55 56 the Long Ford Suburb was located (today there the temple was hit by a bomb, but, for unknown is a tram depot) was renamed Dolgobrodskaya reasons, it failed to explode. There is the Icon of Street. Nothing has left of the suburb’s wooden the Christ of Edessa in the Church made by the buildings. However its main attraction – the famous Russian painter Nikolai Ge. Military cemetery that was opened in 1840 still By the end of the nineteenth century the remains its old appearance. Soldiers and offi cers cemetery had lost its military specifics – it of the Russian army dying in the military hospital became a place of rest in peace for all Orthodox from the wounds were buried on this cemetery. Christians of Minsk regardless of their social In honor of the victory of the Russian troops in class and occupation. Beginning from 1917 it the Russo-Turkish war of 1877–1878 Alexander was the last shelter not only for the Orthodox, Nevsky Memorial Church 45 was built on the but for representatives of other confessions cemetery in1896–1898. Belarusians also served as well. In 1930–1950s the cemetery was in military formations of the Russian army. For considered to be a government cemetery – instance, the vanguard of the Russian army in the political and cultural elite of Soviet Belarus Balkans was headed by a talented commander, were buried there. a native of Belarus General Joseph Gurko. The A special place in the cemetery belongs to the temple is an architectural monument of pseudo- common graves of the Red Army soldiers and Russian style. Inside the building there are two Belarusian partisans 46 – 47 who were killed memorial plaques with the names of Belarusian during the liberation of Minsk in early July, 1944. soldiers of the 30th artillery brigade and the Nearby there are tombs of Yanka Kupala (sculptors 119th Kolomna regiment who heroically fell near A. Anikeychik, A. Zaspitsky, 1971) and Yakub Plevna in . During the bombing of Minsk Kolas (sculptors V. Ananko and N. Yakovenko, by German aviation on June 24, 1941 the roof of 1970). 2525 Since the mid-1950s the cemetery has been 1956 the square got the name of Yakub Kolas, closed down. and in 1972, to mark the 90th anniversary of the The second stage of Nezalezhnastsi Avenue classic of the a monument is formed after Peramohi Square. Here the was installed on the square. The monument carriageway is 4.5 m wider, and less beautiful represents a spatial sculptural composition are the houses. Along this section of the with a fi gure of Yakub Kolas sitting on a stone Avenue, side by side with the pre-war buildings 52 . On either side of the monument there are (architects A. Bregman, G. Yakushko, 1937–1941) sculptural groups: Symon and Hanka from the new residential buildings were constructed poem «Symon the Musician» on the left 51 , the (architects M. Barshch, A. Aranauskas, A. Dukhan, legendary partisan Old Talash with his grandson S. Botkovski, N. Makletsova, N. Spigelman, 1952– from the novel «The Marsh» on the right 53 . 1958). The authors of the monument to Yakub Kolas are sculptor Z. Azgur and architects G. Zaborsky, On this section of the Avenue the leading role Y. Gradov, L. Levin. is played by YAKUB KOLAS SQUARE 50 . Yakub Opposite the monument, on the southern Kolas Square is the second largest square in side of Nezalezhnastsi Avenue there is the Nezalezhnastsi Avenue. Its modern image began building of the Concert hall of the Belarusian to form in the 1950s, in place of the wooden one- State Philharmonic (architect G. Benediktov, storey blocks of Komarovka suburb, where two 1963) 54 . The walls of this building remember major ancient roads forked to Borisov, Orsha the legendary leader of the «Pesnyary» and Moscow (today’s Nezalezhnastsi Avenue) ensemble Vladimir Mulyavin. No wonder, and Polotsk and Vitebsk (Yakub Kolas Street). in 2004 the boulevard starting behind the That area was called Komarovskaya Square. In building of the Philharmonic was named in his 2626 honor – Mulyavin Boulevard. Modern history A. Bregman, A. Voinov and V. Muromtsev, of the Belarusian Philharmonic begins with its 1939) 55 . The building built in the style of capital reconstruction in 2004. Today lovers of constructivism is the compositional dominant music are always welcome to its two concert feature of the Square in the centre of which there halls – the Large Hall (690 seats) and the Small is a public garden with a monument in it. After Hall (190 seats). The Philharmonic can boast the transfer of the Institute of Physical Training of many popular Belarusian bands: the State to a new building in the mid-1980s, it began to orchestra conducted by Mikhail Finberg, the house various sports organizations, including State choreographic ensemble «Khoroshki», the National Olympic Committee. ensemble «». 500 m north of the Square there is the most The southern side of the Square ends with popular market in Minsk – Komarovsky Market the Central Universal Store – TsUM «Minsk» 61 . It was built in 1979 on the territory of the 56 – one of the largest stores of the city. former Komarovsky marshes as a huge pavilion TsUM was opened in 1964, but in a quarter of with the total area of 10 609 sq.m. The square a century it could no longer cope with the fl ow building of the covered market has an original of customers and increased demand. So in design of the roof which is held up by 4 points 1990 its reconstruction began and it lasted for of support (design team under the direction of 7 years. After the reconstruction TsUM architect V. Aladov) 57 . Inside the market there completely changed its appearance. It «grew are trading rows on the ground fl oor and shops up» by two fl oors and got a tower. Its trade area on the fi rst fl oor. During the warm season the was increased up to 26 000 sq.m. open trade market provides buyers with fruits The only pre-war building in the Square is the and vegetables. In 2001, in front of the market former Institute of Physical Training (architects there was opened a multi-step fountain ( 58 , in 27 57 58 59

60 61

62 63 64 the background) and several genre sculptures: The Central place in the architectural «The Lady with the Dog», «Photographer» ( ensemble of this part of Nezalezhnastsi Avenue 58 , in the foreground), «The Horse and a belongs to the building of the Presidium of the Sparrow» 59 (sculptor V. Zhbanov). National Academy of Sciences of Belarus 65 – A playful bronze sculpture of an old woman 67 ). The main building of the Academy of selling sunfl ower seeds which is near the main Sciences built in the style of constructivism was entrance of the covered pavilion (sculptor. designed by architect G.Lavrov in 1931–1932. О. Кupriyanou, 2001) 60 became a true symbol However, after the start of its construction, the of Komarovsky Market. Near the market there project was turned over to another architect – are several trade fairs: «Atlantic», «Mirror», I. Langbard from whose design in 1934–1935 «Impulse», «Manezh», «Olymp» and «Parking». the facade and the colonnade were built. The The section of Nezalezhnastsi Avenue, from construction was completed in 1937. The Yakub Kolas Square to the National Academy building was severely damaged in wartime of Sciences, was formed in two periods: in the but in 1949 it was restored in its original form prewar 1930s and from the late 1940s to the with a small enrichment of the façade’s plastics early 1960s. To the north of the Square there is (architect I. Langbard). the main building of the Belarusian National In the postwar period, in the block of the Technical University (BNTU) – the former Academy of Sciences several buildings of Polytechnic Institute, built in 1930 from the research institutes 68 and the academic library design of architect N. Makletsova in the style of were constructed. Here was built a house for constructivism 62 . During the war the building the Vice-President of the Academy of Sciences was burnt down, and was rebuilt according to Yakub Kolas, which now houses the memorial the canons of neoclassical architecture. Museum of this national writer of Belarus 69 . 2929 65 66 67

68 69 70

71 72 73 On the opposite side of the Avenue there is time it has been reconstructed several times. the «October» cinema (architect V. Malyshev) Future professional artists, sculptors, designers, 64 . It was opened in 1975. For a long time it actors and directors receive education here. It is was the largest cinema in the Belarusian capital, no coincidence that Belarusian Academy of Arts and although it has lost its popularity, it is still has its own art Museum 73 and theatre named one of the most visited movie-theatres in Minsk. after Mirovich on the stage of which students of Annually within the framework of the fi lm festival theatrical professions play dramatic and musical «Listapad» it hosts fi lm previews. performances. On the ground that is close to the cinema there’s a genre sculpture «the Postman» The fi nal section of the second stage of (sculptors V. Zhbanov and E. Kolchev, 2005) Nezalezhnastsi Avenue became KALININ SQUARE 63 . It was not in vain that the bronze postman where in 1978 there was erected a monument stopped here – next to the movie-theatre there to the All-Union senior man – Chairman of the is the complex of the House of Press. On the Presidium of the Supreme Soviet of the USSR wall of house № 79, built in 1935, there’s a Mikhail Ivanovich KALININ (sculptors V. Poliychuk, memorial plaque dedicated to a clandestine I. Glebov, architects Yu. Grigor'ev, A. Nevzorov) organization which existed here in the years of ( 74 , in the foreground). Nazi occupation 70 . The history of the square began in 1930 On the crossing of Nezalezhnastsi Avenue when here, on the outskirts of Minsk the and Surhanau Street Belarusian Academy of First All-Belarusian Exhibition of Agricultural Arts 71 – 72 is located – the most creative Achievements was held. Dozens of brick and higher educational institution of Belarus. The wooden pavilions had been built for this purpose building was built in the 1950s and since that on the territory lying to the north of Moscow 31 74

75 76 77

78 79 80 highway (Nezalezhnastsi Avenue today). The main The main entrance to Chelyuskintsev Park entrance to the Agricultural Exhibition, as it was decorated with neoclassical gateway is situated called by citizens of Minsk then, was exactly in just near the metro station named after the park this place. For the convenience of Minsk citizens 79 . The Park was opened in 1934 outside the and guests of the city who wanted to visit the city boundaries in a preserved pine forest which exhibition a line of the city's tram was built here. Minskers called Komarovsky forest because it When the exhibition was over many pavilions was in proximity to the suburb of Komarovka. were adapted for research and practical Its name the Park of Culture and Rest got in institutions. But as for the vast territory opposite honor of the Arctic expedition on the ice-breaker the pavilions, it remained unclaimed. And then, «Chelyuskin» the rescue of which in 1933 was in 1932, there were founded the Central Botanical followed worldwide. The territory of the Park Gardens of the National Academy of Sciences. is 78 hectares; it has the largest number of In the 1950s the Botanical gardens gates were attractions in the city 78 , 80 . built 76 . Opposite the entrance to the Park, in The Botanical Gardens occupy an area of Nezalezhnastsi Avenue there is house No 93 81 . nearly 100 hectares, making them the largest Its construction had begun before the war but green tract within the central part of Minsk and they didn’t manage to fi nish it... In the unfi nished one of the largest Botanical gardens in Europe building the Nazis had placed one of the branches because their collection consists of almost of the concentration camp for Soviet prisoners 10 thousand species of plants 75 , 77 . The of war – Stalag No 352 which existed there for Botanical Gardens share the neighborhood with almost 3 years. More than 10 thousand tortured another large green plantation – Park of Culture prisoners of the camp lie in a mass grave in and Rest named after Chelyuskintsev. Tolbukhin Boulevard which is within a hundred 33 81 82 83

84 85 86

87 88 89 steps from Nezalezhnastsi Avenue 82 – 83 . fascist underground. There are two narrow- Nearby there is a monument – a boulder on the gauge passenger trains at the disposal of those burial place of several soldiers who fell during who wish to make a journey on the children's the liberation of Minsk in July 1944. railway. Right beyond Chelyuskintsev Park, in The last section of Nezalezhnastsi Avenue Nezalezhnastsi Avenue, there’s the building is the most modern one. Many of the buildings of the station of the Children's railway 84 . were built after 1991, when Belarus became A small one-storey building with magnifi cent an independent Republic. This period is decoration was built from the design of the characterized by an increase of national famous Belarusian architect G. Zaborski. There consciousness and appeals to the historical is a waiting room, a ticket-offi ce, the assistant roots and great personalities. station-master’s room, an instructors’ room and At the end of the twentieth century there a layout of the railway in it. appeared an original, large-scale building of the The Minsk Children's Railway is a real National Library of the Republic of Belarus (the working narrow-gauge railway which is 4.5 km. authors of the design: architects V. Kramarenko long. It has its stations «Zaslonovo» and and M. Vinogradov) 87 with a monument to the «Pionerskaya», its stop called «Sosnovy Bor», great Belarusian enlightener of the Renaissance its trains and railway station building 85 – 86 . Francisc Skaryna (sculptor A. Dranets; architects It was opened in 1955. The station at which the V. Kramarenko and M. Vinogradov) 88 . The railway station building is located was called monument was erected in May 2006. Francisc’s «Zaslonovo». It got this name in 1971 in honor fi gure stands on a three-meter granite pedestal of Konstantin Zaslonov – a railway-man, Hero decorated with three square bronze reliefs of of the Soviet Union, participant in the anti- the cities in which the most important events 35 90 91 92 93

94 95 96

3636 97 98 99 associated with the life of F. Skaryna took place: The Library building consists of three the Belarusian Polotsk (where he was born around visually observable parts: a book-depository, an 1490), the Czech (the printing of books of elevator shaft and a stylobate. The largest part the Bible in 1517 – 1519) and the Italian Padua of the building is a 23-level depository, called (defence of the degree of Doctor of Medical «diamond» by Minsk dwellers, although the Sciences in the University on 9 November 1512). geometric fi gure which formed the basis of the A six-meter high bronze statue weighing more building is a «rhomboid-and- cubic octahedron». than 5 t depicts F. Francisk Skaryna in all height: The elevator shafts are attached to it from the in one hand he holds a book, with the other hand rear of the building. Books fi nd their readers in he blesses. a three-story stylobate built around the base The Library is one of the most important of the book-depository 89 . It is here that all scientifi c and cultural and spiritual centers of reading rooms and other facilities needed for Belarus. The building itself is used not only for productive creative work are located. its direct purpose, but also as a platform for In front of the entrance to the Library building, meetings of Heads of States, intergovernmental at the bottom of a small stepped fountain, one delegations as well as for holding conferences. can see two metal plates with numbers «1517 In the library there is an art gallery and a museum and 2006». These are the dates that remind us of books. The entrance to the library is built in of the appearance of the printed book in Belarus the form of an open book. On the left-hand page and the opening of the new building of the there is the phrase «Might be perfect God’s man» National Library of Belarus. repeated in several languages. On the right page On the opposite side of Nezalezhnastsi there’re excerpts from the works of classics of Avenue there are four 14-storey houses the Belarusian and world literature. decorated with huge mosaic: «City of Fighters», 3737 «City of Science», «City of Culture» and «City of Church became the fi rst temple on the territory Construction». They are a tribute to Minsk by of the All Saints’ ward 92 . It was built of wood Belarusian artist Aleksandr Kischenko (1978) in 2006 in the canons of the Eastern Slavic 94 – 96 . wooden architecture of the past centuries. Just a block past these houses there is All On 2 July 2010, on the eve of the celebration Saints’ Cathedral 91 . The fi rst stone in its of Independence Day in the Republic of Belarus, foundation was laid in 1991 by his Holiness a solemn ceremony of burial of the remains of Patriarch of Moscow and all Russia Alexy II. three unknown soldiers – soldiers of the War of In 1996, with participation of the President 1812, World War I and World War II (the Great of the Republic of Belarus A. Lukashenko and Patriotic war of 1941–1945) took place in the Metropolitan of Minsk and Slutsk Philaret, crypt (bottom part of the altar) of the Church- Patriarchal of all Belarus a capsule with a monument in honor of All saints. commemorative diploma containing a message All-Saints Cathedral is not just a temple but a to descendants was laid in the foundation of this monument to all people who have been victims temple. It’s no coincidence that they decided to of tragedies and wars in the history of Belarus. build the Cathedral near the Eastern Cemetery of It has the shape of a tent topped with a cross. the city. Here lie the ashes of many outstanding This is the highest and largest Orthodox Church compatriots constituting the honour and glory in Belarus. Its height (including the cross) is 74 of their country. The design of «the Cathedral- meters. The Cathedral can receive 1200 people monument in honor of All saints and in memory at a time. There are 504 niches in the crypt. In of the victims who had been the salvation of our each niche there is a crystal container for soil Motherland» was approved in 2005 and in the from the fi elds of battles fought in defence of summer of 2006 its construction began. Trinity the Motherland. Near the main entrance to the 38 Cathedral there is a monument to Patriarch Orthodox Church on the territory of Belarus. Alexy II (sculptor V. Slobodchikov, 2012) 90 The complex houses the Orthodox Church of and a monument to the biblical Moses (sculptor St. Job, a Center for psychological rehabilitation A. Tukhto, 2012) 93 . and Sunday school 98 . There is also a spring 1.5 km southward of All Saints’ Cathedral, «Belarus the Orthodox» with an architectural in St. Cyril of Turov Street there is the House and sculptural composition telling us about the of Mercy 97 . The architectural structure is in history of the Orthodox Church in Belarus 99 . the shape of a cross (architect L. Pogorelov). Here we will fi nish our walking tour along The building was built in 2002 on the resources Nezalezhnastsi Avenue which still stretches for of the Orthodox Church and city authorities a number of kilometers through the newly built and it is the fi rst multifunctional complex of the residential district of Uruchie.

For greater ease of movement during acquaintance with the Avenue of fi ve squares we advise you to take the Moscow line of Minsk Underground that completely duplicates the proposed route. You can also take a city bus (route No 100).

3939

KHEART ON THE PALMS…[

To continue doing the sights of the Belarusian capital we should visit the heart of the city – the center of Minsk shrouded in the mysteries of its many legends 100 . Despite the wars during which Minsk was not spared, this part of the city has retained its historical appearance and atmosphere of the past epochs.

CITADEL, OLD CASTLE are the names of this a fi erce battle between Polotsk Prince Vseslav place that have remained in historical memory. Charodei and the coalition of Yaroslavychi princes It is hard to imagine that there used to be high took place on March 3rd, 1067. The event was earthen walls with defensive constructions here described on the pages of the chronicles «Tale of and that there were guards at the large entrance bygone years» in which Minsk was mentioned for tower-gate. The city grew, changed its outlines. the fi rst time. By the XIX century the Nemiga River After the great fi re of 1547 which completely had heavily shoaled and in 1926 was confi ned in destroyed the castle and the wooden buildings of an underground storm water sewer – a soil-pipe the settlement they began intensive development of of 2 meters in diameter. It under the roadway of Kozmodem’yanovskaya hill on the other side of the Nemiga and Myasnikov Streets now. river. The old part of the city became known as the A wooden construction of an impressive size Lower Town, and the new one – the Upper Town. symbolizing an ancient Slavic boat is hanged To discover the heart of Minsk it is better under the ceiling of the platform of the station to start from the metro station «Nemiga». The «Nemiga» 101 . At the stern of the «boat» there Nemiga is a legendary river on the banks of which is written in Cyrillic the part of the text from 43 100

101 102

103 104 105 «The Word about Igor's regiment» in which the chapel with a metal plate in it. The names of the battle at the Nemiga River was mentioned (The dead and an extract from the Gospel of John are authors of the decorative design of the station carved on the plate. are Y. Gradov and L. Levin). In 1984, before the beginning of the At the exit from the metro station to construction of the metro station there were Pobediteley Avenue there is a memorial to conducted large-scale archeological excavations 53 victims of the at the entrance to as a result of which thousands of items from the the station «Nemiga» 103 . In the evening of urban life in the 11–16 centuries were found. May 30th, 1999 a rock concert under the open sky Among the most remarkable artifacts there were was held near the Palace of Sports in Pobediteley fragments of the tower that served as a carriage- Avenue. Quite unexpectedly a storm started and entrance to ancient Minsk which completely the spectators of the concert had nowhere to changed scientists’ view of the main city «gates» hide. Hundreds of young people rushed to the that had existed in ancient Minsk. entrance of the Nemiga metro station located In its form the territory of the castle reminded within 300 m from the Palace of Sports. There of an oval of about 150 m wide and up to 300 m was a bad jam... On May 30, 2002, at the site of long. Inside the castle walls there were dwelling the tragedy they opened a memorial in the form and household buildings of the city’s inhabitants, of 53 bronze fl owers – 40 roses and 13 tulips, houses of princely aristocracy, several churches which corresponds to the number of the dead and a monastery. Several narrow streets paved women and men. The fl owers are scattered with wooden fl ooring meandered between the about the metaphorical steps and there is an buildings. The main of them was «Velikaya (great) inscription in Belarusian: «53 scars on the heart Street» that was 4 m wide and which crossed of Belarus. 30 May 1999». There is also a small the ancient city from east to west. A bit later the 45 most ancient street of Minsk – Zamkovaya Street wooden castle continued to live: the city garrison, appeared on its basis. prison, monasteries and churches were located Some Belarusian archeologists think that within its walls. Minsk Castle completely fell into Minsk had a city-predecessor. They think that it decay after another powerful fi re, in 1778. was situated on the River Menka – a tributary of To the west of «the heart of the city», over the upper stream of the River Ptich – 16.7 km the river, there begins Nemiga Street. During south-west of the mouth of the Nemiga River. the reconstruction of the 1960s – 1970s the old Between the building of the House of buildings in the street were pulled down. The Physical Culture erected in the middle of the only building that has remained of the ancient 1950s and the bridge over the Svisloch River town is St. Peter and ’s Church 105 built there has remained a small empty plot of land – in 1610–1612. Today it is the oldest building in part of the stronghold of ancient Minsk 102 . Minsk. For a long time St. Peter and Paul’s Church Behind the building of the House of Physical had been an only Orthodox temple in the city Culture there is a small memorial sign in honor of since in the 17 – 18 almost all Minsk Christians the 200th anniversary of the Minsk diocese 104 . were either Catholics or members of Uniate The creation of the sign is associated with the fi rst Church. The Church is a monument of the early Minsk temple. The construction of the three-apse Baroque with some elements of the Renaissance. cross-domed temple was started at the beginning Massive walls with windows built high above the of the 12 century. However, after the foundations ground, fortress-type towers with cross-shaped and the lower parts of the walls had been built, the slots-loopholes testify to the fact that the temple construction was stopped for some reason. used to serve the defense function too. Even after the fi re in the middle of the 16 After the accession of the Belarusian lands century and the construction of the new center the to the in 1793 this Church was 4646 renamed St Catherine's – in honour of Catherine located on Kozmodem’yanovskaya hill. From the II. In 1871 the building was completely rebuilt by middle of the XIX century the square was called the Russian authorities and acquired the features Sobornaya (Cathedral) Square, and since 1917 it of the pseudo-Russian style as it differed greatly has been known as Svobody (Freedom) Square. from Orthodox churches in Russia. In 1972–1979 In the center of the square there is the the building was restored and it got its original City Hall building 107 . In 1499 Minsk was appearance. granted Magdeburg Rights – the rights to self- While restoring the interiors, under several government of the city. These rights provided layers of the ordinary paint scientists discovered for the construction of the building of the City four layers of fresco painting of the Church of Hall in the centre of the city – the building where the 17–19 centuries. Full restoration of St. Peter the city magistrate (the City Council) would and Paul’s Church was completed in 2012 for the work. The original building of the City Hall was 400th anniversary of the Church. built in 1591. In 1851 Russian Emperor Nikolai I signed a decree on the demolition of the Minsk The central square of the UPPER TOWN City Hall as the former symbol of freedom and 106 had been conceived in the form of a independence. In 2003 the City Hall building was large rectangle along the perimeter of which rebuilt anew according to the remained drafts there were churches, cathedrals and houses and drawings. Close to the City Hall building of prosperous citizens. The square was called there is a bronze «Carriage» to which two «High Market». This name had arisen due to the horses are harnessed and which by their size fact that the old market, or «low» market that and appearance fully correspond to the phaetons was close to the walls of the castle was located of the 19th century (authors: – V. Zhbanov, in the lowlands unlike the new square that was V. Zavadsky, Y. Poliakov, A. Tukhto, 2007) 108 . 47 106

107 108 109

110 111 112 In the centre of Svobody Square a complex building. German anti-fascist Fritz Shmenkel was of buildings – Bolshoy Gostiny Dvor is situated. one of them. He was posthumously awarded This is a monument of architecture of the 18–20 the title of Hero of the Soviet Union. There is a centuries 109 . Originally, the complex consisted memorial board in his honor on the wall of the of individual buildings, but at the end of the building. XVIII century Gostiny Dvor was reconstructed One of the dominants of the Upper Town is the by architect T. Kramer in the style of classicism. Cathedral of the Holy Spirit 110 – a monument of The uniqueness of this complex is that in different architecture of Vilno Baroque. Originally, in 1642– years separate parts of Bolshoy Gostiny Dvor 1684 the temple was built as a Catholic Church were rebuilt in different architectural styles. The of the Bernardine Nunnery. After the suppression buildings were used as shops, stores, warehouses of the national liberation rebellion of 1863–1864 and hotels. At the beginning of the 20th century the the building was the place of work of the State Azov-Don Commercial Bank, a merchants’ club Commission of Inquiry. The Orthodox monastery and large stores were located in Gostiny Dvor. of Holy Spirit was placed there in 1870. In 1914 Vladimir Mayakovsky, a famous Russian After the Great Patriotic War the Cathedral poet, appeared in public in the merchants’ club. became the main Orthodox Cathedral of Belarus. In the 1920s the Executive Committee of the There is the Minsk icon of the Mother of God in Minsk Council of Workers and Peasants’ Deputies the Cathedral. There is a legend that this icon (the name of the city administration at that time) painted by Luke the Evangelist was thrown into the was located there. During the fascist occupation waters of the Dnieper during the pillaging of Kiev of Minsk Gostiny Dvor was the place where the by the Tatars. But it was not lost. It miraculously Gestapo was quartered. It is still unknown how appeared in the waters of the Svisloch River, in many people were tortured in the cellars of the Minsk. It happened on August 26th, 1500. The Icon 49 113 114 115 116

117 118 119

120 121 122 123 is considered to be miraculous and particularly Collegiate Church that has not survived was revered in the Christian Shrine of Belarus. joined to the right side of the Cathedral. Close to the Cathedral there is the On the south-eastern perimeter of Svobody Ecclesiastical and Educational Center named Square, at the corner of Lenin Street the Europe after Cyril of Turov. It was built in 2008–2012 Hotel 117 is situated. It is one of the best hotels upon the project by B. Kostich 112 , 111 . in the city. It was built in 2006. Its predecessor Behind the building of the Cathedral of the Holy was built in 1911 in the style of Art Nouveau Spirit there is one of the buildings of the former and at that time it was thought to be the most Bernardine Nunnery 113 and the former Catholic beautiful building in Minsk. The building was Church of St. Joseph – monument of Baroque destroyed during the bombing of the city by architecture of the middle 17 century 114 . fascist aviation in June 1941. The new building On the south-western perimeter of the square of the Europe is not its exact copy. there has remained safe the only palace of the The hotel adjoins the Belarusian Academy city 116 – the estate of the sub-chancellor of the of Music – the main musical institution of higher Grand Duchy of Lithuania Michal Pshezdzetsky. education in the country 118 . Citizens of Minsk This complex built in the middle of the 18 still call it in the old way – Conservatoire. The century consists of a small two-storey house of building was erected in the neo-classicist style the classical style and an L-shaped outbuilding. upon the project of Architect R. Gegart in 1958. Almost opposite the City Hall there is the On the north-eastern perimeter of Svobody Catholic Arch-Cathedral of Saint Virgin Mary Square there is a three-storey building – the 115 – a monument of Baroque architecture. It House of Trade Unions of Minsk Region. Although was erected in 1700–1710 and occupied the most this building was constructed in the middle of important place in the architectural complex of the XVII century as a Basilian monastery, it went the Jesuit Order in Minsk. The building of the down in Minsk history as «the building of Minsk 51 gymnasium». Close to the House of Trade Unions the future composer Stanislav Manushko. In the the concert hall «Upper town» 119 is located. early twenties of the 19th century the husband of In the 17 century Uniat Church of the Holy Spirit one of the owners of that house was on the list was built there, but it was blown up in 1936. In of the members of the freemason’s lodge, which 2012 the building was restored in its original gave rise to a legend among the townsfolk that form with the preservation of its old foundations from 1816 to 1822 under the roof of the house but it was restored not as a cult building, but as there was the freemason’s lodge called «Northern a concert hall of the Philharmonic. Torch». The house is a monument of classical To imagine the beauty of the streets of the Upper architecture. It has a symmetric volumetrically- Town in bygone days, one should have a walk spatial composition. Its facades have small along Muzykalny Lane which begins practically projections that are crowned with pediments. The right behind the concert hall. House No 1 located ground and the second fl oors have rectangular at the corner of Muzykalny Lane and Herzen Street windows. The window apertures of the fi rst fl oor was built at the end of the 18th century ( 120 , are decorated with jambs and lintels with keystones 121 – the patio with a fountain). The well known and cornices. In the piers between the windows Belarusian scene-designer, one of the founders of over the main entrance there are columns of Doric the Belarusian scenic design Oscar Mariks lived in order. Along the perimeter of the walls there is a that house from 1922 to 1935. belt of dentils under the cornice. Since 2002 the House No 5 is the most mysterious buildings on building has been occupied by the State Museum the Lane. It is often called «Masonic house» 122 of Theatrical and Musical . by citizens of Minsk. At different times the house Parallel to Muzykalny Lane there is a street that was owned by different people. Many apartments consists of two old side-streets going back to the were let out. For some period of time, in one of 16th century – Zborovskaya Street and Volotskaya the fi rst fl oor apartments there lived the family of Street. Today this street is called Internatsyonalnaya 52 Street. The «Masonic House» faced the rear of the all left-bank area of the city belonged to the Trinity Vankovichies’ farmstead where in the year of 2000 a Suburb. The center of the area was a natural hill branch of the National Art Museum of the Republic which was named Trinity Hill after the suburb. of Belarus «The Vankovichies’ House. Culture and The block is built up with one-, two- and Art in the 1st Half of the 19th Century» 123 was three-storey houses concentrated along opened. In 1829–1839, Valentii-Vilhelm Vankovich, Storozhovskaya, Maxim Bogdanovich Streets Belarusian painter, representative of romanticism, 128 , Starovilenskaya Street and Troitskaya lived in this house that belonged to his brother Naberezhnaya (embankment) 126 . Near the Edward Vankovich. Close to the farmstead there descent of the bridge over the Svisloch River is a monument «Painter’s Morning» (sculptor to Troitskaya Naberezhnaya there’s an original V. Slobodchikov, architect B. Kazakov, 2010 ( 123 , monument to the Belarusian archaeologist, on the right hand). The most known paintings by ethnographer, astronomer and artist Yazep V. Vankovich – «The Exploit of a Kievan Boy at the Drozdovich (sculptor I. Golubev, 1993) 125 . Siege of Kiev in 968» , «Napoleon by a Bonfi re», A man with an easel and a staff is confi dently «Mitskevich on Ayu-Dag». walking on the Belarusian land. Behind his back, To imagine how Minsk looked like 200 years in the crown of a tree there are upward-soaring ago, one should visit TRINITY SUBURB 124 – pointed spires of towers, domes of churches and a block of the pre-revolutionary city that was a proud horseman rushing somewhere on a quick renovated in 1982–1985 and which is located close horse. In his artworks about the Moon, Mars, and to Nemiga Street and the Island of Courage and Saturn the «eternal wanderer», as contemporaries Sorrow. This block which is situated on the left called him, tried to comprehend and picture the bank of the Svisloch River, just opposite «Nemiga» inner cosmos of Belarusian people. metro station and the Minsk Citadel, occupies quite Some patios of the block have kept the a small area today. But until the nineteenth century pavement that existed at the beginning of 53 124 125

126 127 128

129 130 131 132 the 20th century 127 . Small houses differing nicknamed «humpbacked» by Minsk dwellers from one another in their architectural style and because of its shape ( 133 on the left hand). building materials, small snug patios, numerous It connects the block of Trinity Suburb with entrance arches, balconies, exterior stairs add the small Island of Courage and Sorrow 136 some picturesque fl avor and intimate nature to where the memorial to the Belarusians who the buildings in contrast to modern architecture. died outside their country is located. The Today the buildings of the restored suburb are memorial was inaugurated in 1996 (the design occupied by countless stores, souvenir and team directed by sculptor Yu. Pavlov). The most antique shops, museums and exhibition halls, important thing in the memorial is a monument restaurants and cafes. made in the form of a temple. In the center of On 9 December 1891, in one of the small the monument there are fi gures of the mourning wooden houses that stood in the depths of Trinity mothers 134 . Alongside the river there is a Suburb Maxim Bogdanovich, a classic of Belarusian bronze sculpture called «Weeping Angel» 135 . literature was born. It is in his honour that the Rainwater being collected in the recesses of the street which is a continuation of Nemiga Street boulder beneath the feet of the sculptural fi gure was named after him. In 1991, on the occasion of symbolizes tears of the angel who is weeping the poet’s centenary a literary museum ( 129 , over the death of young soldiers. 130 – one of the museum rooms) was opened in In the middle of the nineteenth century a the suburb. There’s a bookstore called «Vyanok» market square was formed on the top of Trinity on the embankment 132 . «Vyanok» («Wreath») – Hill where every day agricultural products from the name of the fi rst and the only lifetime collection the surrounding villages and hamlets were sold. of poems by Maxim Bogdanovich. It was the most vibrant market of Minsk and it had On the embankment of the Svisloch River, existed up to the beginning of the construction next to Trinity Suburb there is a footbridge of the Theatre of Opera and Ballet. 55 133 134 135 136

137 138 139

140 141 142 In 1935–1939, at the site of the market the was returned to the original appearance of the building of the theater was erected upon the late 1930s, and the facade of the theatre was project of architect I. Langbard. Although the decorated with bronze sculptures of Melpomene dimensions of the structure were reduced and Polyhymnia, Terpsichore and Calliope almost by two times from the initial project, it muses. Apollo and girls-messengers glorifying still amazes with its size. The National Academic him were installed over the entrance portico. In Bolshoi Theatre of Opera and Ballet of the the Park there appeared a large fountain ( 138 , Republic of Belarus is located at the highest the foreground), alleys of the Opera 139 and point of Trinity Hill, in the depth of the park, and Ballet 137 decorated with themed sculptures. is surrounded by streets on each side 138 . Near the theatre building there is a monument During World War II the building was severely to Maksim Bahdanovich (sculptor S. Vakar, damaged. The interior of the theater was looted by 1981) 131 . Across the street there is Suvorov the invaders, and unique pieces of the theatre props, Military School 140 – 141 . The building was decorations, paintings, and furniture were either constructed in the middle of the 19th century as a destroyed or taken away to . After the war men’s Theological Seminary upon the project of the building was reconstructed. The main capital the provincial architect K. Khrastchanovich. The walls and fl oors were preserved, its auditorium building had changed its owners several times. was completely reconstructed, the stalls and tiers After World War II it was rebuilt. Since 1953 the were fully renovated, stucco decorative details of future defenders of the Motherland have been the stage portal, lobby and hallways were restored prepared at Suvorov Military School. by sculptor A. Bembel upon the sketches of Near the Military School there is a public I. Langbard. It was the second birth of the theatre. garden with a monument to pioneer-hero The third birth of the theatre was the result Marat Kazei (sculptor S. Selikhanov, architect of its renovation in 2006–2009 when the building V. Volchek) 142 . The monument that was 5757 143

144 145 146

147 148 149 made in 1959 for the money collected by Minsk kidnapped people, and once a year he obliged pioneers depicts the last moment of life of the local people to send him ten beautiful girls. The young partisan: in his hand, raised high, he beauties going to the slaughter were chosen by tightly holds a grenade… Another moment… lot. Once the lot fell to a girl whose fi ancé was and he will blow up himself and the fascists a famous local hero and who decided to kill the surrounding him. dragon in order to save his beloved. In 1965, on the occasion of the 20th Anniversary A fi erce fi ghting took place on High Hill. of victory over fascist Germany Marat Kazei was The hero killed the hated dragon, but he was posthumously awarded the title of Hero of the mortally wounded. The crystal coffi n with the Soviet Union. body of the hero was carried down to the river One of the oldest streets of Minsk is and sunk on the bottom of the Svisloch River – Rakovskaya Street which is hidden by a large in the very place where the humbled dragon had residential building standing in Nemiga Street hidden himself under the water. Today there is 143 . Rakovskaya Street was formed at the site nothing to remind us of the legend except for the of the road leading to Rakov and was the central downward slope of Zmeevaya Gora (Melnikaite axis of the whole of RAKOV SUBURB. Street today) and the place in the river into the This area of the city is connected with an old waters of which the crystal coffi n had been legend of Minsk. Rakovskaya Street abuts on sunk 146 . It is said that if in sunny weather Yubileinaya Square, the former Vysokaya Gora one keeps on looking at the water from the foot- (High Hill), which in Middle Ages was called bridge that connects Pobediteley Avenue with Zmeevaya Gora (Serpent Hill) 144 . According Storozhovskaya Street, he or she will see iridescent to the legend, in the deep caves of Serpent Hill play of colors coming up from the bottom of the there lived a bloodthirsty dragon. The dragon river… In our days such unbelievable things that demanded tribute from the townspeople. He the legend says can be seen in fi lms only. Those 59 who wish to see such breathtaking scenes can has been fi lling the air over Rakov Suburb with visit the Belarus Cinema 145 which is located aroma of freshly baked bread since 1927. Right just here, in Yubileinaya Square. behind the Bakery, at 10, Vitebskaya Street, there In the late nineteenth century, the street is one of the best known restaurants in Minsk – acquired an image of an industrial area. There «Rakausky Brovar» 149 . were some industrial enterprises there the most Nearby, at the corner of Osvobozhdenya famous of which were wall paper factories owned and Rakovskaya Streets, there is Diocesan by Epstein and Shifmanovich. Their products Administration of the Belarusian Exarchate were highly valued far beyond the borders of 147 . The building was built in 1985 upon the Minsk. Rakovskaya Street was famous for its project made by architect L. Pogorelov. On its shoe factories «Trud» (Labour) and «Skorokhod» fi rst fl oor it houses the Church in the name of (Fast Runner) as well. the Cathedral of all Belarusian saints. At the crossroads of Rakovskaya Street and If Minsk citizens are asked to name the street Osvobozhdenya and Vitebskaya Streets there of the old town that has preserved the greatest are the most interesting buildings that have spirit of the old times, they will certainly name survived in the suburb. House No 20 located at Koydonovskaya Street which after the formation of the corner of the crossroads was built in 1896 as the BSSR was given the name of Revolutsionnaya a hotel. It was built of durable bright red bricks Street. It was not without reason that this street with patterns that were made by a special way appeared in Minsk in the 16th century. It linked of setting the bricks 148 . At the turn of the 19th the new main square of Minsk – Vysoky Rynok and the 20th centuries houses built of rough red (High Market) with Koydanovo High Road – the bricks were quite popular. road that led from Minsk through the small town Just across there is one of the oldest bread- of Koydanovo to Brest and then to Warsaw and baking plantsin in the city – Bakery No 1 that . Actually from the 16 to the 19 centuries this 60 street was the main thoroughfare leading from Education of the BSSR, and from 1922 to 1925 it the center of Minsk in the direction of countries was occupied by the Institute of Belarusian Culture, of Eastern and Central Europe. which was the forerunner of the future National But time fl ies: the town of Koydanovo has Academy of Sciences. One of the organizers of the become the town of Dzerzhinsk, Koydanovskaya Institute of Belarusian Culture was Writer Maxim Street has become Revolutsionnaya Street. Goretsky a monument to whom is in the front Transit importance of the Street is ancient history part of the building 151 . Later on the building now too. However it has kept architecture of the housed newspaper editorial offi ces, a number of 18th – the beginning of the 20th centuries, which organizations and institutions and even a cinema. is one of the main reasons why it is on top of the Houses No 4 – 16 that are on the even side of list of the streets in Minsk that have the largest the street have practically fully preserved the gloss number of monuments of civil architecture of of the merchants’ pre-revolutionary architecture the previous centuries. 153 . To feel the real color of this corner of the city, Revolutsionnaya Street begins from Svobody one should visit its courtyards. In the courtyard of Square. The corner building – house No 2 amazes house No 10 there is one of the buildings of the us not only by its stately proportions, but also by Museum of History of Minsk 154 . the number and variety of institutions that have Revolutsionnaya Street is not long – just been housed here over the past two centuries about 500 meters. Throughout its length it is 150 – 152 . In the early 19th century there crossed by one street only – by Komsomolskaya was a pharmacy and a post offi ce. Later, it was Street 155 . In the past Komsomolskaya Street occupied by men’s Seminary that consisted of was called Felicianskaya Street. It was so named classrooms, dormitories and Cyril and Mefodiy’s in honour of St. Felician – Catholic patron of the Home Church. After the October Revolution the city, whose relics used to be stored in one of the building housed the People’s Commissariat of chapels of the Cathedral. Revolutsionnaya Street 61 150 151 152

153 154 155

156 157 158 ends at the crossing with Gorodskoy Val (Urban in the 1920s. In 1937 the building of the Minsk Rampart) Street. During the 16–17th centuries Free Fire Society was turned over to professional somewhere here Koydanovskaya Brama was fi remen. In 1994 – 1998 the building of the fi re situated – one of the city’s gates through which station underwent reconstruction as a result travellers would enter Minsk. of which a mansard roof with some decorative The blocks between Nezalezhnastsi Square elements was built, which corresponded to the and Nemiga Street represent a fragment of general architectural stylistics of the building. In ancient Romanovskaya Sloboda – a suburb front of the building they had restored the gates known since the end of the XVIII century. To through which fi refi ghting vehicles had used to get acquainted with this suburb, one should come out for over a hundred years. Today the start his or her walk from Gorodskoy Val Street building houses City Fire Brigade № 1 and the connecting Nezalezhnastsi Avenue and Nemiga Museum of Emergency and Rescue Equipment Street. In the 16th century a defensive rampart of the Ministry of Emergency Situations of the with redoubts was built around Minsk to defend Republic of Belarus which is thought to be one of the town from enemies. On the western outskirts the most unusual museums in the city. of Minsk the rampart was just exactly in the same On the opposite side of Gorodskoy Val Street place where Gorodskoy Val Street is now. So that’s there is a public garden in which in 2003 a the reason why the street has this name now. monument to the great poet Adam Mitskevich The most-known building in the street is House was inaugurated (sculptors A. Zaspitsky and No 12 – a fi re station 156 . This building was built A. Finsky) 157 . in 1885 for the Minsk Free Fire Society founded in Just outside the public garden, on the slope 1876. Originally it was a one-storey building but of a hill, there is a building which is practically then, in the early years of the 20 century it grew the only one in the city that has never changed up by another storey. The third storey was added its functional purpose. Throughout its almost 63 two hundred-year-old history – under any state House of Culture which had the biggest stage form of government and under any state power – in the city. In 1925 and 1927 the famous Russian it was and has been a prison. Minsk-dwellers poet Vladimir Mayakovsky recited his poems on call it Pistchalovsky Castle, i.e. by the name of its stage. In the 1930s, the building was occupied the contractor for construction Rudolf Pistchalo by the State Jewish Theatre of the BSSR, and who was one of the richest landowners of Minsk since the late 1940s the former synagogue has Province and who in 1825, on the western outskirts housed the Russian Drama Theatre which is of Minsk, built this prison upon the project of known today as the National Academic Drama architect Michael Chekhovsky. The three-storey Theatre named after Maxim Gorky. rectangular jail with four round towers on the During the Great Patriotic War the building corners was built in the pseudo-Gothic style. was damaged. In the early 1950s the building Today the building houses a pretrial detention was reconstructed. During the reconstruction center of the Ministry of Internal Affairs of the the main facade was rebuilt in the neoclassical Republic of Belarus which was nicknamed style. However the side walls preserved some «Volodarka» as it is situated in Volodarskaya Street. features of the Moorish style. A one hundred and fi fty-meter walk down Volodarskaya Street brings us to the National In the middle of the nineteenth century there Drama Theatre named after M. Gorky 158 . was an outpost on the northern outskirts of Minsk. It Today few people know that this building used to was located on the corner of modern Bogdanovich house the Choral (main) Minsk synagogue built Street and Kiselyov Street. This outpost was the in the early twentieth century in the Moorish beginning of Starovilenski High Road – a road to style. In the early 1920s the synagogue was Vilno. The suburb that was close to the outpost used as the Cultura (Culture) Cinema. Then the was called STOROZHOVKA (from the Russian building of the former synagogue housed the «storozhevoy post» – outpost). So there appeared 64 a new street there which became the main street memory of those brave people a memorial plaque in this suburb. It’s not diffi cult to guess that it got was installed on the factory wall. the name of Storozhovskaya Street 160 . In 1994, the year of its hundred and thirtieth At the crossroads of Kiselyov Street and anniversary, the plant was named «Alivariya». Bogdanovich Street there is one of the oldest At the same time the pre-revolutionary trade factories of the city – Alivariya brewery, founded in mark – an eagle carrying a barrel was returned 1864 by Minsk philistine R. Froomkina. In 1893, the to the brewery, and the logo was supplemented Mayor of the city, Count Karl Czapski became the with the year 1864 – the date of the brewery owner of the brewery. The brewery got the name foundation. By preliminary requests, the brewery «Steam Brewery «Bohemia» of Count Czapski». It holds guided tours and tasting of its production. was his initiative that new workshops were built Within one block from the brewery there is which today can be considered as monuments of Stepanovski Garden. This wonderful park hides Minsk’s industrial architecture. In 1899, «Bohemia» itself” from people’s prying eyes, highways, was bought by the Lekert family who were Bavarian city’s noise and dust behind the walls of long citizens. In 1917, the brewery was nationalized and and tall buildings. The history of the garden received a new name – «Belarus». During the Great is quite unusual. At the end of the nineteenth Patrioic War the factory was controlled by Germans, century all the land of that place belonged to who brewed beer for the Wehrmacht. There was a Minsk townsman, Ivan Stepanov by name, an anti-fascist underground organization from who had planted an orchard there and in 1913, among the employees of the brewery. They spread his daughter Yelena presented that land to the city anti-fascist leafl ets, Sovinformburo bulletins, for the development of a public garden. In 2002, collected medicines and weapons for partisans. in the centre of the garden there was installed a The organization was uncovered by Gestapo and monument to Taras Shevchenko 161 – the great almost all its members were killed by fascists. In Ukrainian poet. This is a joint work of the Ukrainian 65 159 160

161 162 163

164 165 166 167 sculptor V. Lipovka and the Belarusian architect Today, at the site of the former churchyard there V. Kramarenko. It was not without reason that the is Storozhovsky Public Garden and, close to the monument was erected in the garden: close to the Garden, there is the high-rise Belarus Hotel 159 . garden there is the Embassy of Ukraine, and at its The Church of St Mary Magdalene 163 was corner there is an original pavilion with a well. built in 1847, in the style of classicism. After the All the houses in this area seem to be fi lled October revolution the Church utensils and settings with a smell of fresh bread, vanilla and sugar of icons were confi scated. Time and again it was molasses because of the oldest in Minsk bread- closed down, turned into a warehouse and even baking plant which is located quite nearby. a joiner’s shop. The dome of the Church and the Beyond the bakery there is the gate of the Church cross were demolished, the frescos were covered of Saint Equiapostolic Mary Magdalene 162 . with paint. In 1949–1953, the Church was rebuilt The gate of the Church appeared at the end of as archives for fi lms, photographs and sound the 19th century to demarcate the territory of recordings. The Church of St Mary Magdalene the Church parish complex from the orthodox was returned to its believers in 1990, and then churchyard that was opened in Storozhovka at the it was restored. In 1992 the baptismal Church of end of the 18th century according to the Decree St. John the Baptist was built near the Church on churchyards by Catherine II. Since in the 19th and in 1993, close to the Church they erected a century the number of members of the Orthodox monument on which one can read the following Church among native people in Minsk was not words: «May the souls of all your slaves who are great, the churchyard became a shelter for the buried here repose in Christ». Russian community of the town – the newly- To the north of Storozhovka there was PERESPA arrived offi cials and military men. Offi cially, the SUBURB. It derived its name from the Perespa River churchyard was closed in 1937, but the decision to which fl owed out of the Komarovsky swamps, remove it was taken after the Great Patriotic War. rounded the hill with the sentry post from the right 6767 side and, crossing the meadow, fl owed into the Patriotic War the cemetery was demolished too. Svisloch River. In the place where it fl owed into The free territory was occupied by a collective the Svisloch River the bank was very steep and, farm market specializing in selling animals. The forming a waterfall, the Perespa discharged its market was closed down in 1995. waters into the Svisloch River with a great noise. In 2011, historical justice was restored, and the In the documents of the 17–18th centuries memorial «Minsk Common Military Graveyard reference was made to the Perespa estate and of 1914–1918» 164 – 167 was inaugurated. In in the middle of the 19th century the territory that the center of the memorial, upon the project by lay to the North of today's Masherov Avenue M. Detko, a chapel was built (165). On the granite along Starovilensky High Road and Chervyakov pedestals around the chapel there are the names Street was known under this name. According of the soldiers who were killed and buried there. to the legend it was here, in the mouth of the The chapel is open from three sides but access Perespa that Menesk had built an amazing stone to the inside of it is limited by a forged grate. mill with seven paddle-wheels. Its interiors are decorated with mosaics 166 . In 1914, on the territory between Dolginovsky Round the memorial they erected a tracery iron High Road (today’s Chervyakov Street) and fence with the main 164 and side gates 167 . Starovilensky High Road there was founded a On the stakes of the fence there are St. George’s cemetery of soldiers of the Russian army who Crosses which were the highest award to the died of wounds in hospitals of Minsk. In 1915, soldiers of the Russian Empire. a small wooden chapel designed by architect Almost parallel to Storozhovka there is one Leonty Benois was built there. About 5 thousand of the most important thoroughfares of the city soldiers of different nationalities and religions that connects its center with the north-western were buried on the cemetery. In the 1920s, the outskirts. Its name is Peramozhtsau Avenue. chapel was pulled down and after the Great The length of the avenue is 9 kilometers. When 68 the avenue appeared in the late 50-ies of the modern building here was the Palace of Sports 20th century, it was originally called Parkovaya 169 . It was built in 1966 upon the project by Maghistral (Park Thoroughfare). After the tragic architects V. Malyshev and S. Filimonov. The death of the First Secretary of the Communist building is shaped like a box of the BelAZ dump Party of Belarus Piotr M. Masherov in 1980, the truck. It was the fi rst multi-functional complex thoroughfare was renamed the avenue and it was not only in Minsk but in Belarus: even today called after his name. In 2005, in honor of the 60th not only sporting events but also concerts and anniversary of victory over , and exhibitions are held here. The design of the Minsk due to the fact that along the avenue there were Sports Palace was so successful that similar facilities glorifying the feat of the Soviet people in structures were built in three cities of the USSR: the Great Patriotic War, it was given the name of Volgograd, Dnepropetrovsk, . Peramozhtsau Avenue (the Avenue of Winners). It Across the avenue there are dwelling is this thoroughfare in which the major large-scale houses, modern high-rise business centers, the facilities and structures of the Belarusian capital Moskva Cinema with the Screen Actors Theatre. have been concentrated for the last decades. The The sidewalk of this part of Pobeditley Avenue avenue stretches along the water-green diameter is adorned with four sculptures «Seasons» of Minsk created around the Svisloch River. A (sculptors V. Zankovich, L. Davidenko, Yu. Polya- number of parks, public gardens and reservoirs kov and A. Shaternik, 1982) 170 – 173 . perfectly complement the modern architectural Traditional Belarusian folk festivals «Hukanne complexes of the Great Patriotic War Museum, Vyasny» (Seeing the spring in) (172), «Kupalle» the Palace of Independence, Minsk-Arena, the (Midsummer) 171 , «Dazhynki» (Harvest festival) Football arena and other facilities. 173 and «Kalyady» (Chrismas) 170 . The avenue begins near the metro station On the even side of the Avenue, beyond the «Nemiga» and the territory of the Citadel. The fi rst Palace of Sports, there is a footbridge across the 69 168 169 170

171 172 173

174 175 176 Svisloch which can be used to walk to the green prisoner of the Warsaw Ghetto E. Pollak and the zone where there is the House of Moscow and the Belarusian sculptor A. Finsky. The monument is a monument to Alexander Pushkin 168 donated bronze sculptural composition – a group of people to the Belarusian capital by the Government of walking down along their last path leading to their Moscow in 1999 on the occasion of the 200th grave on the bottom of the pit ( 174 – the general anniversary of the birth of the great Russian poet. plan), 176 – the close-up). And nearby there is When war intrudes upon people’s lives, a walkway in honor of the righteous – Belarusians philosophy of life is turned inside out, and where who, at the risk of their lives, saved Jews during the there was festive fun yesterday, today there is pain, Great Patriotic War. blood and death. Not far away from the sculpture The most important architectural accent «Hukanne Vyasny», which is close to the avenue, of Peramozhtsau Avenue at its junction with there is a memorial to the victims of the Minsk ghetto Masherov Avenue is the architectural and sculptural who were killed in June 1943. The memorial is complex «Minsk – Hero City» 177 – 179 that situated in the courtyards of the houses on the corner was opened in 1985 for the 40th anniversary of of Melnikayte and Zaslavskaya Streets and is called Victory over Fascist Germany. The monument «Yama» (the Pit) 174 – 176 . This name dictated was created by sculptor V. Zankovich, architects by the local terrain carries symbolic context too – the V. Evseev, V. Kramarenko and V. Romanenko. The pit as a symbol of death. The memorial consists of main emphasis in the composition of the memorial two monuments. The fi rst one was erected in 1947. complex is its 45-metre-high obelisk 177 . At the It is located on the bottom of the pit and is a black top of the obelisk there is an image of the star and granite obelisk 175 . The second one was opened a laurel branch. At its bottom there is a board with in 2000 as a result of cooperation of the Chairman of the text of the Decree of the Presidium of the the Association of Jewish Organizations in Belarus, Supreme Soviet of the USSR of 26 June 1974 on the famous architect L. Levin, the Israeli sculptress, awarding Minsk with the honorary tile «Hero City» 71 177 178 179

180 181

182 183 184 179 . At the obelisk, on a low pedestal, there is a As long ago as the mid 20-ies of the 20th bronze sculpture of a woman – the personifi cation century the city authorities decided to create here of the Motherland, and fanfare over her left shoulder a recreation area for residents of Minsk. But only in as a symbol of Victory and Glory 178 . 1936, they started to realize this idea. The project The new building of the Museum of the plan of development of the city was adopted Great Patriotic War (architect V. Kramarenko, according to which they were going to create a 2014) ( 178 , the background) serves as a municipal recreation park along the River background for the architectural and sculptural in the north-western outskirts of Minsk. Work on the complex. The main facade is represented in plan began in the spring of 1940. At that time there buoyant, triumphant ways, as a victorious were no excavators and bulldozers and citizens of salute. Compositionally the building consists of Minsk had to dig the pit area of 35 hectares by four main blocks that represent the four years hand. They were mostly young people – members of the war, the four fronts that liberated Belarus. of the Komsomol. Hence the name of the lake! The All of them are located along the axis leading to fl ood plain of the Svislach was expanded, a dam the obelisk «Minsk – Hero City» – the leitmotif was built. Thus, a man-made lake was created of the whole composition. On one side the hill on the riverbed. The opening was scheduled for with the monument and the museum borders on Sunday, June 22, 1941. On this day, the Great the greenery of the museum and park complex Patriotic War started and... «Peramoha» (victory) 180 and on the other After the war, in 1945, on the site of the former side – on Peramozhtsau Avenue and the dwelling arable land and hayfi elds that belonged to the houses that are located behind it. As noted by homestead of the Lyudamonts, a new Victory Park the citizens of Minsk, the «broken» outlines of was planted. The total area of the park was 200 the residential buildings resemble fi reworks. And hectares of which 48 hectares were under the water close to it, there is Komsomolskoye Lake 181 . of the lake. The park became a favorite recreation 7373 ground for many residents of Minsk, and the measuring 7 m by 14 m is hoisted on a fl agpole smooth water surface of the lake with its 11 islands the height of which is 70 m. The cloth is made of became its main decoration. There are entrances to a special waterproof fabric which does not fade the museum and park complex from both avenues: in the sun. The design of the fl agpole is made Masherov Avenue and Pobediteley Avenue. On its of stainless steel. The top of the fl agpole looks territory there is a museum of military equipment, like a bronze peak with a star. On the inclined grounds for public events, children's adventure plane of the pedestal there is a bronze coat of playgrounds and beautiful beaches. One of the arms of Belarus which is 2 m in diameter. The islands of Lake Komsomolskoye became accessible square communicates with the main facade of thanks to the 60-meter footbridge. On the island the Exhibition Center «BelExpo» by means of a there is an ecological trail, an excursion playground 24-meter-wide stairway. From different sides of the and snug pergolas. The main emphasis of the park stairway there is the text of the anthem and map of are two parallel walks – Walk of Memory and Walk Belarus. Along the footpath there are seven four- of Fame, which start from the square in Masherov meter granite steles with bronze coats of arms of Avenue and lead through the Memorial Arch to the regions of Belarus and the city of Minsk. ground where public cultural events and shows are The building of the National Exhibition Center arranged. «BelExpo» resembles a huge stone fl ower 184 . In 2013, at the intersection of Pobediteley Its pentagonal showroom with a span of 70 m Avenue and Orlovskaya Street there appeared and an internal height of 10 to 17 m was built in a new square – the Square of the State Flag of 1988 upon the project of a team of architects: the Republic of Belarus 182 . The square is a G. Laskavaya, V. Kopylov, G. Fedoseenko and circle with a granite pedestal and a fl agpole in the L. Moskalevich. The building itself is the only center. The diameter of the circle is 100 meters. structure in Belarus made in the architectural style The national fl ag of the Republic of Belarus of bionics through which an attempt was made to 74 express the beauty and geometry of the human University of Physical Culture and Sports, the living environment by building constructions National Olympic Committee, tennis courts 191 . of stone and glass. The pentagonal show room The Football Arena (architect V. Rutskoy, is covered by fi ve hyperbolic paraboloids that 2002) 189 is the fi rst in Belarus indoor football express the scenic attraction and lightness of fi eld with artifi cial turf and stands for spectators. architectural forms and without cluttering up the The facilities of the arena include a fi tness center interior space of the room. and a gym. The technology of the stands and On the extension of the axis that joins the that of artifi cial turf is such that not only football square of the State Flag and the National Exhibition matches can be arranged under the roof of the Center there is the Palace of Independence arena. The area which is in front of the building (architect. V. Arhangelsky, 2014) the total area of is adorned with the fountain called «Zabava» which is 50 thousand sq. m 183 . The Palace is (fun) and the sculpture called «Beg» (running). designed for the reception of high government The largest and most modern sports facility delegations, presentation of credentials of foreign in Minsk is Minsk-Arena (2006–2009) 187 . It ambassadors and meetings with heads of state. consists of three sports facilities connected in Inside the palace there are rooms for ceremonies, a single complex: a cycling ground, a skating meetings and storage of state rarities. stadium and a hockey arena. The complex holds Beyond the square of the State Flag Vesnianka almost 17 thousand persons. residential area begins 188 . This neighborhood Due to the versatility of the main arena of the combines diversity of natural systems with a high complex competition in many sports, as well as quality of urban infrastructure. In Vesnianka and concerts and other mass events can be arranged on father along Pobediteley Avenue there are a number its basis. In November 2010, Minsk-Arena hosted of city’s sports facilities. The most famous of them an international competition «Junior Eurovision». are: Football Arena, Minsk-Arena, Belarusian State In March 2012, the World Junior Figure Skating 75 185 186 187

188 189

190 191 Championship was held under its roof. In 2014, there are plates with the names of the cities that Minsk-Arena became the main platform for the have become capitals of the Olympics. Ice Hockey World Championship. On the opposite side of the avenue there On the square fronting Minsk-arena there is Belarusian State University of Physical is an Alley of Sports Fame. Here one can touch Culture and Sports (architects V. Afanasev and the history of the Olympic achievements, read G. Fedoseenko, 1983) 190 . The design of the the names of the athletes who at different building reminds of a three-beam star. At the times glorifi ed Belarusian sports. Five fountains point of the intersection of the three wings of the symbolizing the Olympic rings are the elements building there is a small tower with battlements of the Alley of Fame. Along the perimeter there on the top board. are round plaques in the form of sports medals Near the University there is one more with the names of 68 Belarusian athletes who complex – the National Olympic Committee have won at the Olympics. The dominant feature and the hotel «Victoria-Olympus» 185 , the of the alley is the stele «Triumph», made in the construction of which was completed in 2013. The form of the Olympic torch whose fl ame is fi gures headquarters of the NOC of Belarus is located of three athletes with uplifted hands to heaven in a building with a golden dome. The complex (sculptor Bondarenko, 2009) 186 . The height of consists of two independently functioning the sculpture together with the stele is 25 m. The buildings that have a unifi ed stylistic and space- base of the torch is encircled by a ring on which planning design and connected by an inner walkway.

For the convenience of moving about the historic center of the city we recommend cunsulting the placard near the station «Nyamiha» and Troitskaya Naberezhnaya (Trinity Embankment). Those who are willing to go on a sight-seeing tour along Pobediteley Avenue can take the city bus (route No 1 – excursions). 77

ALONG THE STREET…

The modern center of Minsk located on the south side of the main avenue of the city – Nezalezhnastsi Avenue, 150 years ago was the outskirts of the city. A powerful impetus to the economic development and spatial growth of the city was given by the construction of the Moscow-Brest and Libavo-Romenskaya rail lines that met in Minsk and connected it with the centers of Russia, , Ukraine and the Baltic States. So, the railway station built on the outskirts of the city in 1890 eventually turned out to be in its center. The spacious modern building of the railway station is the fi fth one in succession. But originally it was a small structure: two two-storey turreted buildings the shorter sides of which looked toward the railroad tracks and which were connected by a one-story gallery. In the vicinity of the station, there are a lot of places connected with the history of the last century, as well as many interesting architectural monuments and sculptures.

Between Railway Station Square and The system of higher education on Nezalezhnastsi Square there is THE UNIVERSITY Belarusian soil totals five hundred years, QUARTER inhabited by the youngest and the but the first state university was opened most energetic part of Minsk residents – by only in the twentieth century. It happened students 192 . on October 30, 1921 when Belarusian State 80 University (abbreviated BSU) was opened in of 1941 was the year of the 20th anniversary of Minsk. the University and the beginning of the most Originally the university occupied several terrible ordeal in its history. On June 21, 1941 at buildings that were located in different parts of the BSU they started its jubilee scientifi c session the city. This circumstance created diffi culties and deployed a festive exhibition dedicated for both educational and scientifi c activities of to the achievements of its faculties. And the students and teachers, so it was decided to build next day – on June 22, the Great Patriotic War a university campus the construction of which began. More than 450 lecturers and students took place in the years 1928–1932 (architects of the University went to the frontline, became I. Zaporozhets and G. Lavrov). partisans and underground fi ghters. In 1975, It is the BSU that has played a signifi cant for the 30th Anniversary of the Great Victory, in role in the development of higher education memory of the BSU students and staff members in Belarus. On the basis of a number of its who had died in the struggle against fascism an departments Minsk Medical Institute (now the obelisk was erected in the campus 194 . The Belarusian State Medical University), Minsk monument is a diamond-shaped stele with a Pedagogical Institute (now the Belarusian State through rifl e silhouette. At the base of the stele Pedagogical University), Belarusian Institute of there is a small pyramid as a symbol of eternity. National Economy (now the Belarusian State On the plate there’s the following inscription: Economic University) were founded. «Of blessed memory of those who went from By the 1930-ies the faculty structure had their university to the sacred battle against fi nally formed. Biological, chemical, physical fascism and fell by the death of heroes in the and mathematical, historical, geographical, battlefi eld so that the eternal light of the sun of philological faculties started their work. The year freedom might shine above our Motherland». 81 192

193 194 195 196

197 198 199 200 The path leading to the monument is paved with of the 1920s. The motives of Belarusian national mourning black cobbles. ornament are clearly visible in the decoration The war caused enormous damage to the of the building under its eaves. The main University. The campus was almost completely building of the University and the buildings destroyed, the library funds and archives that are occupied by medical, chemical and were looted, laboratories were destroyed. geographical faculties were built later in the style The restoration of the pre-war training and of constructivism. Most campus buildings have production facilities of the University continued undergone a makeover. Only the building of the until the 1950-ies. Rectorate and that of the Faculty of Geography Today the BSU is the largest center of higher have retained their facades 195 . education, science and culture in the Republic of To get to the courtyard of the University Belarus. Its structure contains 17 faculties, 172 Quarter one has to pass through the lobby of the departments, more than 20 research centers, BSU main building from Nezalezhnastsi Square or 114 research laboratories, 11 educational through the gate from Bobruiskaya Street which institutions, and production facilities. The BSU is located near the railway station. The main has its own statute, emblem and fl ag. Its main role in this area belongs to a sort of pantheon governing body is the Rectorate (University dedicated to the brightest representatives of administration) headed by the rector. the Belarusian Enlightenment – Euphrosyne The present building of the BSU Rectorate of Polotsk, Cirill of Turov, Franciscus Skaryna, was the fi rst building of the campus 193 . Mikola Gusovsky, Symon Budny and Vasil Looking at its architecture one can see the Tiapinsky. transition from the early twentieth century The tradition of honoring national fi gures eclecticism to functionalism and constructivism of culture, science and politics dates back to 83 the Middle Ages. There are monuments to while her body was transported to Kiev-Pechersk outstanding compatriots in all major universities Lavra where it remained until 1910, when her in Europe. In 1998, the BSU also joined them – relics were transported to the Transfi guration monuments to Franciscus Skaryna and Mikola Church of the Savior’o’Euphrosyne Monastery Gusovsky were erected in the courtyard. in Polotsk. Euphrosyne of Polotsk is canonized Near the entrance to the building of the and recognized as a saint in both Orthodox Rectorate there is a monument to Euphrosyne Church and Catholic Church. She is considered of Polotsk (sculptor Igor Golubev, 1999) 196 . the heavenly patroness of Belarus. Euphrosyne of Polotsk is the great Christian Near the monument to Euphrosyne of educator of the XII century, the Reverend Polotsk there is a monument to her countryman, Mother-Superior. By her order in 1161 artisan educator and pioneer, one of the greatest sons Lazar Bogsha created a cross which became a of the Belarusian land Franciscus Skaryna sacred relic and an object of reverence of the (sculptor Sergey Adashkevich, 1998) 197 . Belarusian land. The original Cross disappeared F. Skarina is one of the brightest representatives during the years of the Great Patriotic War. With of the Renaissance in the Belarusian lands (15– the blessing of the Orthodox Church in 1997, in 16 centuries). In Polotsk, he received his primary appearance and likeness of the original cross, the education and learned Latin which at the time was goldsmith from Brest Nikolai Kuzmich recreated considered to be the international language of this relic, which is now kept in the monastery science. Lectures at universities of all European of St. Euphrosyne of Polotsk. In the last years states were held in Latin. Knowledge of the of her life Euphrosyne of Polotsk went on a Latin language had opened the way for him to pilgrimage to the Holy Sepulchre in Jerusalem. further education. First F.Skaryna graduated with There, in the holy land, she died in 1173. After a a degree of Bachelor of Philosophy from Krakow 84 University, and then with a degree of Doctor of mission, where by order of Pope Leo X in 1522 Medicine – from the University of Padua. In Prague he wrote the poem «Song of the appearance Franciscus Skaryna published the fi rst «Bible» in and savagery of the bison and the hunting for the Old and when he moved him» (also known as «Song of the Bison»). In his to Vilno, he opened his own book publishing work, he called for unity in the faith of various workshop – the fi rst one in Eastern Europe. Slavic peoples; praised the free personality, Skaryna treated his books as teaching aids, and promoted European education. On the list which is proved by the small size of his books, of the most famous fi gures of the Slavic world which made them very handy, their simple print the names of Mikola Gusovsky and Franciscus and text division into chapters and verses. Skaryna are side by side. So are the monuments There is a belief among students of Minsk to them in the University’s courtyard. that if before the exam you go to the monument The monument to Cyril of Turov was to Franciscus Skaryna and ask for a «clear head», inaugurated in 2001 for the 80th anniversary you’ll have good luck. of Belarusian State University (sculptor Igor Not far from the monument to F. Scarina Golubev) 199 . Cyril of Turov was a writer, there is a monument to his contemporary – church leader, theologian, and Bishop. Just as Mikola Gusovsky (sculptor Vladimir Panteleev, his contemporary Euphrosyne of Polotsk, he 1998) 198 . Mikola Gusovsky was a poet, saw the path to moral self-improvement and humanist and Renaissance educator, pioneer of spiritual development in reading books. Cyril of the genre of lyric-epic poem in the literature of Turov skillfully mastered the national fi gurative Eastern Europe. Gusovsky received an excellent language, had a deep knowledge of the Byzantine education in the Great Duchy of Lithuania, and culture, especially in poetry and eloquence, for in 1518 came to Rome as part of a diplomatic which he earned the nickname Chrysostom. 85 201

202 203 204

205 206 207 For him mind was the highest value of earthly «residence». In the second half of the 1990s the life. His works «Words» and «Parables» are a public garden was landscaped and it became genuine hymn of «book learning», where he the place for Vladimir Zhbanov’s sculptures harmoniously combined national poetic word, «A Beautiful Stranger» 202 , «A Girl with an artistic originality and writer’s and thinker’s Umbrella» 204 and «Lighting a Cigarette» audacity. 203 . These were the fi rst examples of genre On a bench, not far from the Faculty sculpture in Minsk. of Geography, two sculptural Belarusian philosophers «have been having a conversation» ALONG KARL MARX STREET since 2000. These fi gures are Symon Budny and One of the entrances to the Public Garden is Vasil Tyapinsky – educators and publicists of the located at the crossroads with Karl Marx Street XVI century, humanists and supporters of the that runs parallel to Nezalezhnastsi Avenue ideas of the Reformation (sculptor I. Golubev) 208 – 209 . This street was «born» in the early 200 . nineteenth century and originally it was called The buildings of the Chemical and Law Loshitskaya Street because it led towards the Faculties that are located in Leningradskaya suburban estates of Loshitsa. Before it became Street complete the University Quarter. On the Karl Marx Street it had changed its names opposite side – on the corner of Mikhailovsky several times: Bazarnaya Street, Novomeyskaya lane there is a mini-park which was opened Street, Podgornaya Street. Its length is 1.5 km. in 1913 by the request of residents of Minsk. It lasts from Mikhailovsky Public Garden to the They named the park Mikhailovsky Public bridge over the Svisloch River which is next to Garden 201 – 207 . The park was apparently the entrance to Children’s Central Park from the given this name after the street where it got its side of the circus building. 8787 208

209 210 211

212 213 214 During the warm season of the year, at time. Nowadays it is occupied by the State weekends, the street becomes pedestrian only. Control Committee of Belarus. At the beginning It becomes a place where street performances of the twentieth century House No 17 was a by young artists and musicians are held, meeting place for members of the Society of where craftsmen and artists demonstrate their Fine Arts Lovers – a city club of literature and products and where outdoor summer terraces art admirers 211 . The Society had 4 sections: of numerous cafes and restaurants are located. artistic, dramatic, literary and musical. Now it is In addition, no other street in Minsk has such an ordinary residential house. variegated architectural styles: eclecticism and House No 12 on the even side of the street modernism, constructivism and neoclassicism. is the National Museum of History and Culture Minsk citizens think that of all the streets of the of the Republic of Belarus 212 . At its entrance city this one has some magnetism that makes visitors are greeted by an artillery cannon dating people come back here again and again. back to the beginning of the nineteenth century. At the corner of Karl Marx and Volodarskogo The building was constructed in 1907 for the Streets there is three-storey house of red brick Minsk branch of the State Bank of the Russian (No 5) 210 . The house was built in the early Empire. Originally it was a two-storey building, twentieth century in Art Nouveau style. It used but in the 1920s it was added one more storey. to house the city police department, the address In the 1920s – 1930s, the building housed the table, and the criminal investigation department. Minsk City Executive Committee. In 1957 the After the October Revolution the building building was given over to the Belarusian State was occupied by militia founded in Minsk by Historical Regional Museum which in 1922 was M. Frunze. It is for that reason why citizens of reorganized into two national museums: the Minsk had called it the militia-house for a long National Museum of History and Culture and the 89 National Museum of Nature and the Environment. House No 14 is occupied by the Ministry of The museum has the largest collection of artifacts Energy of the Republic of Belarus 213 – 214 . of material and spiritual culture of Belarusian It was built in 1955 after the project of R.Gegart people. It contains more than 260 000 exhibits, in the style of neoclassicism. Houses No 16 and the most ancient of which is about 40 000 years No 27 which are located on both sides of the street old. Among its exhibits there are everyday beyond the crossroads with Komsomolskaya objects of primitive man, products of medieval Street were built in the 1930s. During the Great craftsmen, weapons, coins, furniture pieces, Patriotic War the buildings were seriously glass, ceramics, ancient letters and rare printed damaged and after they had been restored they books of the Belarusian printing-houses of 16–17 signifi cantly altered their original appearance. centuries, and more than 80 treasures found in At the same junction there begins the territory of Belarus. Every year the Museum Komsomolskaya Street’s boulevard which runs organizes over 10 exhibitions. The House- from Nezalezhnastsi Avenue to the main entrance Museum of the 1st Russian Social Democratic of the legendary Minsk «Dynamo» stadium. Labor Party Congress that was founded in 1923 In 1899 the Female Mariinsky Gymnasium is a branch of the Museum. 215 was opened in Minsk. The gymnasium In the courtyard of the museum there is a belonged to an agency established by Empress two-storey house and outbuildings that have Maria Fyodorovna (hence the name), and was kept their architectural style. They were built considered as the best in the Minsk province. in 1907 for the employees of the bank, and The Minsk governor was its honorary trustee. today these buildings allow us to imagine 560 girls were studying in the gymnasium on the how the house at number 12 originally looked eve of World War I. In the autumn of 1915 it was like. removed to Propoisk (now Slavgorod). After the 90 October Revolution of 1917 a polytechnic was House No 33 was erected at the junction opened, and from 1925 to 1932 it housed the of Karl Marx Street and Lenin Street in the late Communist University named after V. I. Lenin. In 1920s. Downstairs the building was occupied by 1939 the building was occupied by an art gallery Belarusian Communal Bank whereas upstairs the exhibits of which were looted during the the bank employees had their apartments. Great Patriotic War. Fortunately the building itself At the same junction there begins the boulevard was not damaged and retained its architectural of Lenin Street. The boulevard was laid after the style. Great Patriotic War, on the site of the destroyed Originally it was a two-storey building the buildings of mid-19 – early 20 centuries. In 2010, third fl oor to which was added in the 1920s when a monument to Jean Henri Dunant – the founder the number of fl oors was increased in all the of the International Committee of the Red Cross buildings of the street. Today, the gymnasium 217 (sculptor Oleg Kupriyanov) was set up building houses the National Center for Traffi c on the Boulevard. Quite near the monument, at exchange (House No 29). house No 35, the Administration of Belarusian The building of House No 31 was built in 1937 Red Cross Society is located 218 . (architect A. Voinov) 216 . The architectural On the opposite side of the street, just before style in the period of the transition from the intersection with Lenin Street 221 , there constructivism to neoclassicism is its distinctive is the Belarusian State Art Museum of the feature. From 1956 to 1991 it housed the Minsk Republic of Belarus ( 219 , 220 – its interior). Higher Party School. After the Communist Party The building was erected in 1957 (architect had ceased its activities the building was given N. Baklanov). over to the Philological and Economic Faculties The museum has the largest collection of art of the BSU. treasures in Belarus – more than 25 thousand 91 215 216 217 218

219 220 221

222 223 224 exhibits of painting, drawing, sculpture and style, built by architect G. Gai as a commercial decorative and applied arts. More than 15 000 apartment building in 1913 222 – 223 . After of these exhibits represent Belarusian art of the the establishment of Soviet power in the city 12–20 centuries including iconography, wooden it was nationalized and turned into the House sculpture and church furnishings, paintings, of Soviets – a residential house with offi cial drawings, printed books, sculpture, crafts and apartments for the party and cultural elite of the folk art . Belorussian SSR. The museum has a permanent exhibition that Minsk citizens often call this building «the introduces visitors to a collection of the Belarusian house with memorial plaques» because its art of the 12–20 centuries, a collection of foreign facade between the windows of the ground fl oor art of the 16–20 centuries, and a collection of is occupied by numerous plaques dedicated to Russian art of the 18 – early 20 centuries, an art the persons that used to live in the house 222 . collection of the East of the 15–20 centuries. In the 1920s – 1950s here lived Felix Dzerzhinsky – In addition to the permanent exhibition, the creator of the All-Russian Emergency Committee; museum has temporary exhibitions. The museum leaders of the Communist Party of Belarus offers a wide range of tours, educational classes Panteleimon Ponamarenko and Kyrill Mazurov; and lectures on international and national art. Prime ministers of the BSSR Zmitser Zhilunovich, After the renovation in 2006, the museum got Alexander Tchervyakov and Nikolai Goloded; an additional area – a gallery which is located poet Petrus Brovka; orientalist Nikholai Nikolsky. inside the quarter formed by Karl Marx and Kirov On July 10, 1980 Petrus Brovka Literary Museum Streets. was opened in this house. The museum was Right beyond the crossroads there is House opened in the apartment where the poet Petrus No 30 – an example of Art Nouveau architecture Brovka had lived and worked since 1951. The 9393 225 226 227

228 229 230

231 232 233 displays present the life and career of Petrus sports society «Dynamo». The popularity of Ustinovich Brovka (1905–1980) – national poet sports competitions, of football matches in of Belarus, Academician of the Academy of particular, was so great that in 1939 the stadium Sciences of Belarus, Minsk Honorary Citizen. The underwent its first reconstruction. The second displays are based on numerous publications, reconstruction took place because the stadium manuscripts, documents and personal belongings was completely destroyed during World War II. of the poet. The new stadium which was designed for 34,000 At the end of the quarter that is located between seats was built in 1947–1954 by architects M. Koli Lenin Street and Engels Street there’s House and M. Parusnikov. At the same time a graceful No 36, where writers, poets and playwrights triumphal arch of the «Dynamo» stadium Yanka Mavr, Pyotr Glebka, Ivan Naumenko used 227 appeared in front of Komsomolskaya to live and work, as well as Vladimir Korotkevich – Street. the creator of the historical genre in Belarusian Part of the football tournament games of the literature 224 . It is here that he wrote his novels XXII Summer Olympic Games in Moscow in 1980 «The Black Castle Olshansky» and «The Wild Hunt had been planned to take place in Minsk, so in of King Stach» which have become cult novels. 1978–1980 the stadium had another reconstruction No wonder, the citizens of Minsk call this quarter as a result of which it had improved its sporting a literary quarter. qualities, «grown up» by 16,000 seats, acquired new decorative elements 226 and become the ALONG KIROV STREET main sports arena of Belarus. By the beginning of The most famous site of Kirov Street is the this century the stadium had ceased to comply «Dynamo» stadium 225 . It was opened on with international standards and in 2013 it was June 12, 1934 as a stadium of the All-Union closed for another reconstruction. 95 234 235

236

237 238 The arch of the stadium offers views of a highlighted by powerful Corinthian semi-columns number of buildings (No 21, 23, 25) which were that are of the entire height of the building. A built at the beginning of the twentieth century relief image of the State Emblem of the BSSR in Art Nouveau style 235 , and dwelling house has been kept above the main entrance. No 19 which was built in 1929 in the style of The next building is the Crown Plaza Hotel constructivism 233 . 228 . Its history contains three periods as well At the junction of Kirov and Komsomolskaya as three different names that are associated with Streets there’s a building which was constructed them. The hotel with 330 rooms was built in 1934– in 1953–1956 by architects A. Voinov and 1938 by architect A. Voinov and was named «The L. Usov and which today houses the Executive Belarus». It was the most comfortable hotel in the Committee of the Commonwealth of Independent prewar Minsk. During the Great Patriotic War the States 230 . The central part of the building building was totally destroyed. It was restored is an angular faceted volume with a spherical in 1947 according to the original project. A shift dome at the end of which there is an octagonal from constructivism to neo-classicism is clearly drum with a spire. Two symmetrical wings are seen in the style of the building. The hotel had attached to the central faceted volume. Classic born the name «The Belarus» until 1987 when forms of decoration are actively used for the it was given over to a brand new comfortable external decoration of the building. Quite nearby hotel in Storozhovskaya Street. The former hotel there is one of the most grandiose examples of became known as «The Svisloch». However, it the postwar architecture of Minsk – the building had born this name for 12 years only for it had of the Ministry of Agriculture and Food of the to undergo another reconstruction as a result Republic of Belarus (architect P. Ivanov, 1952) of which it got a new name «The Crown Plaza 229 . The central part of its main facade is Hotel» (or «The Minsk Princess Hotel»). Since 9797 the hotel building is a sample of architecture, its 2011 the building was occupied by the Minsk facade had undergone no signifi cant changes. City Department of Education which later on was It’s only the interior spaces that were subject to reorganized into the Committee of Education. In a radical transformation. And in the courtyard, 2011–2013 the building was fully restored and as part of the hotel complex, there was built one reconstructed and since 2013 this building has more building. been occupied by the Court of the Eurasian At the junction of Kirov and Volodarskogo Economic Community. Streets, which is just opposite the hotel, there’s In Kirov Street, there are two long another sample of architecture built in 1911 in symmetrical buildings that are located opposite the style of Art Nouveau – the former commercial one another and look onto Railway Station apartment house of Kostrovitskaya. It used Square the architectural ensemble of which was to house the Libavo-Romenskaya Railway formed by architects L. Golubovsky, L. Usova, Administration on its ground fl oor 231 . V.Gerashchenko and others in 1948–1956 236 . Beyond the crossing with Sverdlov Street The square is adorned with two houses with there is the building of the former private towers which are known among the Minsk citizens Alekseevskaya gymnasium for women of as «City Gates» 238 . On one of the towers there E. D. Reyman which was built of red brick in Art is the State Emblem of the Republic of Belarus, Nouveau style at the beginning of the twentieth and on the other one there is the biggest clock in century 232 . The whole history of this building the country which is over 3.5 m. in diameter. is associated with educational institutions: in The modern railway station was built the early twentieth century it housed a private out of metal structures and glass (architects: gymnasium, in the 1920–1950-ies – a high V. Kramarenko and M. Vinogradov) 237 . Every school. From the beginning of the 1960s up to day it serves about 10 thousand passengers. 98 LYAKHOVKA which made it possible to save the buildings Past the «Dynamo» stadium there is one of of the factories – monuments of industrial the largest and most densely populated suburbs architecture of the 19 century. of the prerevolutionary Minsk called Lyahovka. House No 15 in Kastrychnitskaya Street is the Today it is the area of Sverdlov, Ulyanovskaya historic building of the factory «Kristall» 242 . and Kastrychnitskaya Streets. According to In 1893, the brothers Rakovshchik founded one of the versions the name is of ethnic origin a distillery here which has been the largest and is associated with the settlement of Poles – producer of alcoholic beverages in Minsk up to «Lyakhi» – as they were called in the old days. At the present day. the end of the 19 century several factories were On the opposite side of the street there is a built in Lyakhovka and so these south-eastern complex of buildings of the late XIX century – outskirts of the city turned into an industrial Yeast Plant (Kastrychnitskaya Street, 14). Near district of Minsk. the plant’s main entrance there is a monument Lyakhovka’s main street today is Kastrych- at the site of the execution of the Minsk nitskaya Street (formerly Nizhnelyakhovskaya underground fi ghters 241 . Street). In former times it was the major exit from In 1908 the plant «Gigant» appeared here. Minsk in the direction of and . The plant has undergone several revolutions, Today at the beginning of the street the concert reorganizations and changes of its names, and hall «Minsk» 239 is located which is jokingly has become a major machine tool plant MZOR. called by Minsk dwellers as «Koza» («goat»). The main building of the plant is located at 16, Because of the curves in the Svisloch River Kastrychnitskaya Street 240 . Lyakhovka is somewhat isolated. At the same The suburb’s name Lyahovka is preserved time it is located close to the downtown area, only in the name of the public garden which 99 239 240 241 242

243 244 245 246

247 248 249 250 is located at the intersection of Ulyanovskaya, train station «Institute of Culture». The same Kastrychnitskaya and Belorusskaya Streets. In name is given to the station of the Moscow line Lyakhovsky public garden 243 there is an of the Minsk subway that is located not so far unusual monument – the Wall of Viktor Tsoi – from the train station and separated from it by two sections of reinforced concrete fence with the oldest concrete viaduct in Minsk which was graffi ti in memory of the leader of the famous built in 1908. Soviet rock band «Kino». Opposite the exit from the subway station platform there is the institution that has given DOBRYE MYSLI the name to these two stations – Belarusian To the south of the modern Railway station State University of Culture and Arts – the former and Nezalezhnastsi Square there used to be a Institute of Culture. The next building which suburb which was called Dobrye Mysli («Good is located in Moskovskaya Street is Academy Thoughts»). It covered the territory that lay along of Management under the President of the Moskovskaya Street, Brilevskaya Street and Republic of Belarus 244 . The building was Koydanovskaya Road (modern Chkalov Street). constructed in 1975 upon the project of the The suburb got its name from the village Dobrye team of architects led by L. Moskalevich and Yu. Mysli which was located in that place. Grigoriev as the Institute for Advanced Training In 1872 the city's fi rst railway station was of Workers of National Economy. built in Dobrye Mysli. After the construction of In 1991 it became Academy of Management. the Vilensky Station (now on its site there is the Nearby, on the opposite side of the street, there Minsk Railway Station) the station in Dobrye is the Youth Variety Theater 245 and one of Mysli lost its primacy and after the fi re of 1928 the oldest libraries in Minsk – the library named it was not restored. Today it is occupied by the after L. Tolstoy which was founded in 1910. The 101101 building that had housed the library before World modern Frantishak Bogushevich Square, Karl War II has not survive but the current location of Liebknecht Street, Rose Luxemburg Street, the library is practically identical to the original. Clara Tsetkin Street and the beginning of Felix The only building of the early twentieth century Dzerzhinsky Avenue. Most likely, the name is architecture that has survived in Moskovskaya associated with the Nemiga River whose waters Street is house No 11. were splashing in the suburb. At the beginning of Rabkorovskaya Street The Square named after the famous that begins between houses No 7 and No 9 in Belarusian poet of the 19 century Frantishak Moskovskaya Street there is a branch of the Bogushevich is the center of modern Literature Museum of Maxim Bogdanovich – Pleschanka. The Belarusian State Academic «Belarusskaya Khatka» (Belarusian Hut) 247 . Musical Theatre is located in this square 248 . In 1916–1917 the famous Belarusian classical The theater building was constructed in 1981 poet Maxim Bogdanovich lived in this house. upon the project of architects O. Tkachuk and The exhibits of the museum tell us about the V. Tarnovsky. During the construction of the period of life and work of the poet when he lived theater the building of the former club of the in Minsk. His memorial room was fully restored. wool mill that was built in 1930 was included in Today «Belarusskaya Khatka» is not only a its structure. The main entrance to the theater is museum but also a meeting place of literary and decorated with the front portal with the sculpture artistic intellectuals of Minsk. of the «Muses» (sculptor L. Zilber). Opposite the entrance to the theater there is PLESCHANKA «the Clock of Friendship», presented to Minsk Pleschanka is the prerevolutionary Minsk by the Japanese sister city of Sendai in 2002. It suburb that was located around the area of is a type of solar-powered classic street clocks 102 made by the Japanese company «CITIZEN». The On the opposite side of Bogushevich Square, dual clock face shows Minsk and Sendai time. A on a hill in Paunochny Lane there can be seen few steps from the clock there’s Sendai Public wooden buildings of the late 19 – early 20 Garden in which there are numerous samples of centuries 250 . The houses tightly beset the Japanese fl ora that have successfully adopted narrow street, facing it with their porches and themselves in Belarus 249 . In 2008, the public thresholds bordered by forged canopies. The garden was adorned with decorative elements Lane lies on a steep descent and these wooden made in the Japanese style including a bamboo houses almost cut into the local terrain with their bridge. In 2009, during the Days of Sendai in high stone basements. The buildings of the Lane Minsk there was held a ceremony of planting make the only complex monument of wooden Japanese mountain cherry-trees, a symbol of architecture of the late 19 – early 20 centuries Japan, in the public garden. in Minsk.

For the convenience of getting to the ancient suburbs of Minsk we recommend using the Avtozavodskaya line (Pershamaiskaya Station – former Lyakhovka Suburb) and the Moscow line (Lenin Square Station – former Pleschanka Suburb, Institut Kultury Station – former Dobrye Mysli Suburb) of Minsk Metro.

103103 Prepared by Minsk Research of Social and Economic Problems at the request of the Department of Sport and Tourism of Minsk City Executive Committee

Author of the concept: Ivan Satsukevich Text: Tatyana Scripchenko, Alexander Mantush Translation: Zlata Derbyshova, Alexander Mantush Reviewer: Vadim Lakiza Photos: Anatoly Drybas, Vladimir Siz Editor: Ivan Lukashevich Design: Natalya Molchanova 104104