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803 Portugal-Madeira.Qxd T H E R A R E W I N E C O. D’Oliveira D’Oliveira is one of the greatest of the clas- Immensely Powerful Wines sic Madeira shippers, and one of the few to sur- Over the years, it has been our privilege to take vive from the pre-phylloxera era. Founded in part in several comprehensive tastings of 1820, and today housed in cellars that date D’Oliveira vintages. There is a definite “house from 1619, this small jewel of a company is style” to these wines. They have very powerful still owned by the same family, its vineyard aromatics, great lushness and viscosity, incredi- holdings built up over time through a series of ble structure, and a tangy character that is marriages with other wine-producing families. essential to the finest wines of the 18th and But what is really extraordinary is that D’Olivera 19th centuries. has held on to many of its most famous vin- No wonder others in the Madeira trade consid- tages, creating a unique, and irreplaceable, stock er these to be such supreme examples of classic of old wines. And remarkably they are all Madeira. In fact, during the 1970’s and 1980’s, D’Oliveira wines, not purchased from other when the Madeira Wine Co.(Blandy’s, Cossart, shippers or growers. etc.) was beginning to run low on old vintages Thus, whether an 1862 Sercial or a 1922 Bual, to sell, it was to D’Oliveira that they turned. all were produced by the D’Oliveiras and their Like Barbeito, D’Oliveira believes that ancestors, and generally from their own vine- Madeiras age best in cask. Consequently, all of yards in São Martinho, one of the great viticul- its vintages are kept in wood, and only enough tural sites in Madeira, lying just to the west of is bottled to meet short-term needs. Funchal along the island’s south coast. 1900 D’Oliveira Moscatel 1922 D’Oliveira Bual Wine Spectator: “97 rating. Very dark brown Alex Liddell: “★★★★★ ... a rich symphony of and a bit closed on the nose, showing dark aromas like creme brulée and roasted nuts; very cocoa and slightly burnt treacle. Noticeably concentrated and sweet ... powerful and persist- sweet and extremely concentrated . .” ent finish. A reference wine.” 1900 D’Oliveira Verdelho 1937 D’Oliveira Sercial D’Oliveira is justifiably famous for its Verdelhos. Wine Spectator: “93 rating. Full of verve, this The 1900 is a powerhouse, intensely concentrat- Madeira is deep amber in color, with a fresh, ed, with a huge bouquet of toffee and creme complex bouquet evoking cocoa, caramel and a brulee. Stunning. hint of iodine.” 1903 D’Oliveira Bual 1968 D’Oliveira Bual Alex Liddell: “★★★★★ ... hugely concentrated Alex Liddell: “★★ ... forthcoming and harmo- barley sugar, sweet, but with a wonderful acid nious blend of singed aromas ... its sweetness cut balance; big, lingering finish ... Excellent; com- by considerable acidity, finishing rather dry and bines power with charm.” long.” 1905 D’Oliveira Verdelho 1957 D’Oliveira Old Wine Wine Spectator: “98 rating. What an intense This 100% Tinta Negra Mole wine demon- wine. Fabulous bouquet of rich, sumptuous strates, unequivocally, that this varietal can pro- caramel. There’s some sweetness here, but rapier- duce “noble” wine. Resembles a great Malvasia. like acidity is underneath.” 1977 D’Oliveira Terrantez 1912 D’Oliveira Verdelho Like Bastardo, Terrantez came close to extinc- Alex Liddell: “★★★★★ ... intensely perfumed tion, owing to Phylloxera. Several growers began ... a full palate—concentrated vinosity, hints of replanting Terrantez in the 1940s and 1950s. fudge—opening out to a powerful, lingering This beautiful example is soft, nutty, and subtly aftertaste of black treacle ... Another winner.” fragrant, with a just off-dry finish. 21481 EIGHTH STREET EAST • SONOMA, CA 95476 • 1-707-996-4484 • Fax: 1-707-996-4491 Copyright 2003 The Rare Wine Co..
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