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BANGKOK Same Same, but Different PRODUCED BY LONELY PLANET FOR BANGKOK Same same, but different. It’s Thailish T-shirt philosophy that neatly sums up Bangkok, a city where the tastes of many places are mixed into a varied, often spicy dish that is never, BANGKOK ever boring. Scratch the surface and you’ll find a city of climate-controlled megamalls and international brand names just minutes from 200-year-old village homes; of gold- spired Buddhist temples sharing space with neon-lit party strips; and of streets lined with food carts selling Thai classics for next to nothing, overlooked by restaurants on top of skyscrapers serving exotic cocktails. But rest assured that despite its international flavour, Bangkok remains resolutely Thai. And in Thailand anything worth doing – even work – should have an element of sà nùk, loosely translated as ‘fun’. Whether you’re ordering food, changing money or haggling, it will usually involve a sense of playfulness – a dash of flirtation, perhaps, and a smile. Wat Pho %2221 9911; Th Chetuphon & Th Sanamchai; admission HIGHLIGHTS 50B; h8am-6pm; g506, 507, 25, fTha Tien;W Grand Palace & Wat Phrak Kaew Second on the tourist itinerary after Wat Phra Kaew, this %0 2224 1833; www.palaces.thai.net; temple has many more curious corners (and traditional Th Na Phra Lan; admission 350B; massage pavilions) to explore beyond the crowd-pleasing h8.30am-3.30pm; Buddha, a 46m-long and 15m-high figure illustrating Bud- g506, 507, 512, 25, fTha Chang; W dha’s passing into nirvana. It is also home to the largest There is no other site in Thailand more holy or more famous collection of Buddha images in the country and the earliest than Wat Phra Kaew (Temple of the Emerald Buddha) and centre for public education. the attached Grand Palace, the former royal residence. A strict dress code is enforced: closed-toed shoes, long pants USEFUL PHRASES or skirts, and shirts with sleeves. The admission price to _____________ Grand Palace and Wat Phra Kaew includes free entry to Hello. sà·wàt·dee ______________ Dusit Palace Park. Yes. châi No. _______________mâi châi ________ Mae Nam Chao Phraya Thank you. kòrp kun Excuse me. _______kŏr tôht Mae Nam Chao Phraya (literally the ‘River of Kings’) is Do you speak _____pôot pah·săh always teeming with activity. The best way to explore it English? __________ang·grìt dâi măi? is aboard the river express boat, which sprints from Wat How much is this? _née tôw rai? Ratchasingkhon in the south of the city to Nonthaburi in the north. At docks along the way, the ferry discharges crowds of map-toting tourists, commuting office clerks and groups Chinatown of monks. Shark-fin restaurants, gold and jade shops and huge neon Selling grilled snacks on Khao San Road signs in Chinese characters line Th Yaowarat, Chinatown’s sports a nightclub setting (sans the decibels) and outdoor main street. To see Chinatown in business, come during the banquettes facing the club greens. There is a Thai and Italian daylight to explore the various street stalls. But to savour menu and the yam sôm oh Ъoo (pomelo salad with deep- the district, come in the evenings when the streets off Th fried crab) earns a hole-in-one. BANGKOK Yaowarat become nightly food markets. Moon Bar Chatuchak Weekend Market %0 2679 1200; www.banyantree.com; 61st fl, Banyan %0 2272 4440; bounded by Th Kamphaeng Phet, Tree Hotel, 21/100 Th Sathon Tai; h5pm-1am; Chatuchak Park & Th Phahonyothin; mLumphini exit 2 h8am-6pm Sat & Sun; dMo Chit, bChatuchak Park The Banyan Tree’s Moon Bar kick-started the rooftop trend You’ve got to see it to believe it: this weekend market is a and as Bangkok continues to grow at a mad pace, the view veritable village of vendor stalls selling clothes, décor, junk from 61 floors up only gets better. Arrive well before sunset and collectibles. It is the number-one shopping destination and grab a coveted seat to the right of the bar for the most in the city despite the heat and crowds. impressive views. EATING & DRINKING CURRENCY Rachanawi Samosorn The basic unit of Thai currency is the baht (B), made up of 100 satang. Getting your hands on Thai baht is easy enough h g c Tha Chang; 10am-6pm; 512; through the city’s thousands of ATMs. Credit cards are This cafeteria-like restaurant has one of the few coveted widely accepted. Go to 7-Eleven shops or hotels to break riverfront locations along this stretch of the Mae Nam Chao 1000B notes; don’t expect a vendor/taxi to have change for Phraya. Locals come for cheap and tasty seafood-based 500B or anything larger. eats such as fried rice with crab, or semidried cottonfish served with a sour mango dressing. HOW MUCH? Chote Chitr Skytrain ride ________________________ 15–40B %0 2221 4082; 146 Th Phraeng Phuton; Chao Phraya Express boat ride _______ 10–34B h10am-10pm Mon-Sat; g508, 48; c 3km taxi ride ____ 50–100B depending on traffic Antique family-owned restaurants adorn this old section of 640ml Singha beer from bar ________60–120B town where middle-class Thais eat the way their parents and 1L petrol _______________________________ 40B grandparents did before them. Chote Chitr is famous for mèe 500ml/1.5L bottle water _______________7/15B gròrp, sweet-and-spicy crispy fried noodles, and the banana- Pàt tai ______________________________25–40B flower salad (yam hŏoa Ъlee). New York Times food reviewer Cup of coffee ______________________ 40–80B RW Apple ate here and loved it. It’s located off Th Tanao. One-hour traditional Thai massage 300–3000B Souvenir T-shirt __________________ 100–250B Ratchadamri %0 2251 1705; Royal Bangkok Sports Club, 100 Th Ratchadamri; h6-11pm; dRatchadamri; W This restaurant occupies a prestigious location on the PRODUCED BY LONELY PLANET FOR APT. ALL EDITORIAL VIEWS ARE THOSE OF grounds of the Royal Bangkok Sports Club. But cast aside LONELY PLANET ALONE AND REFLECT OUR POLICY OF EDITORIAL INDEPENDENCE visions of bird-and-dog oil paintings; rather, this place AND IMPARTIALITY..
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