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Best Available Techniques for Environmental Protection in Textiles and Leather Industry Impressum Content Best available techniques for environmental protection in textiles and leather industry Impressum Content Published by: Umweltbundesamt (The UBA) - Federal Environment Agency of Germany 4 Preface Wörlitzer Platz 1 D-06844 Dessau-Roßlau 5 BAT information – in short Tel: +49 340-2103-0 Fax: +49 340-21042285 7 Environmental standards pay off [email protected] www.umweltbundesamt.de 9 Partnership for Sustainable Textiles /umweltbundesamt.de 10 ”Best available techniques“ /umweltbundesamt in the textiles and leather industry Concept and Editing: Image sources: 16 Environmental management: Brigitte Zietlow, Titel: Ludmilla Parsyak First steps and associated effects Umweltbundesamt, Fachgebiet III 2.1 Fotolia (S. 3) Übergreifende Angelegenheiten, Ricosta Schuhfabriken (S. 6) 19 Ready to use: Chemische Industrie, Feuerungsanlagen picture alliance / dpa (S. 10, 12, 14, 25) BAT for ”Good Housekeeping“ Ismene Jäger, shutterstock (S. 15, 33) Hydrotox Labor für Ökotoxikologie Gebr. Elmer & Zweifel GmbH & Co. KG: (S. 17) 28 Process-integrated BAT und Gewässerschutz GmbH, TEGEWA e.V. (S. 21) in the textiles industry Christian Tebert, Verband der Nordwestdeutschen Ökopol - Institut für Ökologie und Textil- & Bekleidungsindustrie e.V. (S. 22, 38) 41 Process-integrated BAT Politik GmbH, picture alliance / blickwinkel/M. Rutkiewicz (S. 21) in the leather industry Jürgen Meissner, TVU Textilveredlungsunion GmbH & Co. KG (S. 27) ÖkoMedia GmbH picture alliance / Beate Schleep (S. 33) 48 End of Pipe: BAT for waste water A & E Gütermann (S. 29) treatment and waste gas abatement Layout: Hugo Josten Berufskleiderfabrik GmbH & Co. KG (S. 30) ÖkoMedia GmbH Schoeller GmbH & Co. KG (S. 31) 50 Sources Stuttgart Hess Natur-Textilien GmbH (S. 33) Schöffel Sportbekleidung GmbH (S. 35) 51 Additional information Print: JACK WOLFSKIN GMBH & Co. KGaA (S. 36) Printed on 100% recycled paper. VAUDE Sport GmbH & Co. KG (S. 37) HELLER-LEDER GmbH & Co. KG (S. 40) Brochure orders: Laura Lisalo for Tarnsjö Garveri (S. 43) Umweltbundesamt c/o GVP Lederfabrik Josef Heinen GmbH & Co. KG (S. 44) Postfach 30 03 61 adidas AG (S. 47) D-53183 Bonn Phone: +49 340 2103-6688 Fax: +49 340 2104-6688 E-Mail: [email protected] Publication available as pdf: www.umweltbundesamt.de/publikationen February 2017 2. completely revised edition ISSN 2363-832X ISSN 2363-8311 3 Preface BAT information in short „Consideration of BREF documents is the best way to offer ecological Best available techniques for the textile and leather industries: Who is this brochure addressed to? products requested by customers.“ environmental protection reduces costs and secures market position This brochure addresses you as a company in the Monika Büning, vzbv - Federation of German textile or leather production chain – in particular if Consumer Organisations Today it is well known how Furthermore, the brochure refers directly to industrial the following descriptions matches you: to produce textiles, leather reality. It outlines the „best available techniques“ and shoes as environmen- (BAT), regularly defined jointly by EU member states as You supply the European market as a player „BREF documents assist companies tally friendly as possible. well as industrial and environmental associations. In in the global textile chain or as a leather or with the continuous implementa- This is also clear to consu- the EU, BREF documents – Best Available Techniques shoe producer. mers. According to the 2016 Reference Documents – form the basis for permits for You are looking for support to improve your tion of environmental standards in Environmental Awareness environmentally relevant industrial installations, and environmental standards more effectively because operational practice.“ Study more than 15 percent have demonstrated their value over many years. Global your consumers in sales markets, your trading of respondents often buy environmental protection will be promoted all the more partners, or your customers in the processing Andreas Tepest, Deichmann SE clothes certified as being if importers jointly and gradually implement the same industry request this. less harmful for the environ- standards at their subcontractors as respected at EU You are interested in environmental protection ment. Consequently, one of the goals of the textile and sites and requested by consumers. measures that reduce your operating costs or at leather sector should be a more effective protection least pay off in the medium term. – Best Available Techniques Reference Documents – of our environment and a consideration of consumers’ And finally yet importantly this brochure shows that You intend to attract new customers and want the world's largest practice-proven compilation of interests. This brochure shows the way to traders and corporate environmental protection pays off monetary – to use environmental protection measures to technical measures for environment protection, which producers. and frequently without great expense. Paying attention improve your image. is constantly improving. to non-leaking pipes, well-calibrated dosing systems Leading manufacturers and traders of the textile, lea- and the manufacturer details for chemicals can result What is it about? In the European Union, the use of best available ther and shoe industry in Germany with associations in clear cost savings. A simple change in washing pro- techniques is a precondition for receiving a produc- and the UBA worked jointly to write this brochure. This cesses for instance can result in water savings of up to Environmentally sound manufacturing technologies tion permit. In search for suppliers outside the EU, is something I welcome in particular, as the branch 75 percent. Since 2012, the UBA offers a detailed BAT are becoming a product characteristic in major retailers and brands are also interested to import from does not steer only their own production. They are also checklist, providing additional assistance to producers consumer markets of industrialised countries, same companies implementing environmentally sound influencing the attitude of their subcontractors – often for achieving reduction targets. as the quality of material and its processing. This is techniques. This brochure shows you the first steps situated in developing and emerging countries. To justified because the impact of environmentally da- towards positioning your company well in this area. design the whole textile supply chain in an environ- Corporate environmental protection is relevant in each maging business threatens humanity as a whole, and mentally and socially responsible manner the members production step – if this message is spread by the more and more consumers are aware of this fact. This brochure presents only selected measures from of the Partnership for Sustainable Textiles elaborate brochure and its involved stakeholders of industry, the collection of best available techniques. However, common solutions. Import statistics show the buying trade and society, then more and more producers will For this reason, this brochure aims to show you that technical details on all best available techniques, power and hereby the responsibility of companies on follow in their footsteps. Even though environmental best available techniques (BAT) for environmentally including those not presented here, could be found this field: in 2015 the European Union imported clothes protection in textiles, leather and shoe production is sound production do not lead to benefits for only the in the extensive BREF documents themselves. Free with a value of more than 93 billion euros and shoes the main focus of this brochure: improving environ- environment, but first of all to benefits for your com- downloads are available on the websites of the EU with a value of more than 10 billion euros from coun- mental and social standards need to interlink and over- pany. In addition, this brochure shows many approa- (eippcb.jrc.ec.europa.eu/reference) and the Federal tries outside of the EU (Eurostat 2017). lap obviously – as part of a sustainable development. ches of techniques you can implement and thereby Environment Agency (www.bvt.umweltbundesamt.de). achieve savings effects – some even in short time and without high investments. What are “best available techniques“? Worldwide there are already some consulting services regarding environmental protection in the textile, Maria Krautzberger, leather and shoe sectors. The special approach of this President of the German Federal Environment Agency brochure: it is oriented towards the BREF documents 4 5 Participants Environmental standards pay off Based on a first edition published in 2009, the Federal • adidas AG The advice of BAT Reference Documents: Technical Most important savings potential: Environment Agency once more developed this brochure • A&E Gütermann improvements and methods of the environmental Cost savings due to lower consumption and more on environmental standards for the textiles, leather and • C&A Mode GmbH & Co. KG management system should work hand in hand. efficient use of raw materials and energy. shoe sector in cooperation with stakeholders of indus- • Deichmann SE Environmental management doesn't prepare only the Less expenses due to waste reduction and try and society. The suggestions and expert contribu- • Gebr. Elmer & Zweifel GmbH & Co. KG ground in your company for corresponding technical recycling income. tions of each of the following representatives facilitated • HELLER-LEDER GmbH & Co. KG measures such as the integration of
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