RETAILER JANET BROWN DIES/4 BULGARI’S U.S. EXPANSION/10 WWDWomen’s Wear Daily • The Retailers’MONDAY Daily Newspaper • March 19, 2007 • $2.00 Accessories/Innerwear/Legwear Incredible Bulk Broad shoulders are all the rage for fall, thanks to Martin Margiela and Balenciaga’s Nicolas Ghesquière, who launched the look last season and have continued it this time around. Margiela’s latest Maison styles are a little Joan Crawford, a little Eighties padded glory, and also read as right for a new strong, empowered woman. Here, his wool, silk and cashmere sweater dress. For more, see pages 6 and 7.

Latest Designer Link: Brooks Bros. to Unveil Thom Browne Women’s By David Moin rading up is getting contagious and TBrooks Brothers is the latest to catch the bug. Nordstrom and Bloomingdale’s continue to add designer offerings, Lord & Taylor has dumped moderate offerings in favor of better and bridge and J. Crew keeps pushing the envelope with higher prices while maintaining its openers. And, if they’re not doing it by price, retailers are doing it in image, from H&M to Wal-Mart and Target. Brooks Brothers has been raising its standards over the last few years. The next step in the process will come on See Browne, Page 18 PHOTO BY DOMINIQUE MAITRE PHOTO BY 2 WWD, MONDAY, MARCH 19, 2007 WWD.COM Benetton Names Music Exec as CEO By Amanda Kaiser for innovation and development The retailer’s fi nancial perfor- [plans] of Benetton Group,” the mance is showing improvement. WWDMONDAY MILAN — Benetton SpA tapped company said in a statement. Benetton released full-year 2006 Accessories/Innerwear/Legwear a new chief executive officer, Before joining Warner Music, results Friday in line with previ- once again turning to a fashion Caccia Dominioni held various ous guidance. Net profi t rose 11.7 FASHION world outsider. positions at Time Warner and percent to 125 million euros, or Exaggerated shoulders, some worthy of a defensive lineman, are turning Warner Music executive Gerol- Philips Italia. Reached at Warner $157.5 million. Revenues grew 8.3 6 up in treatments ranging from peaked pagodas to whimsical appliqués. amo Caccia Dominioni will take offi ces in London, he declined to percent to 1.91 billion euros, or over on June 1, the clothing fi rm comment. $2.41 billion. Dollar fi gures have said Fri day. Caccia Dominioni re- The appointment comes amid been converted at average ex- GENERAL places Silvano Cassano, who left a generational shift at Benetton. change rates for the period. Brooks Brothers is breaking out its fi rst proprietary designer collection in November after clashing with Family patriarch and chairman As for the current year, 1 on Tuesday called Black Fleece, designed by Thom Browne. the Benetton family over interna- Luciano Benetton said in October Benetton noted a strong order Benetton has again tapped a new ceo from outside the fashion world, tional strategy. that he will hand over the reins book for the spring-summer and naming Warner Music executive Gerolamo Caccia Dominioni on Friday. Caccia Dominioni, 52, is cur- to his son Alessandro this year. fall-winter seasons. The com- 2 rently the London-based vice A Benetton spokesman said pany estimated earnings before Kellwood Co.’s earnings fell 44.3 percent to $7 million in the fourth chairman and chief operating Alessandro led the ceo search. interest, taxes, depreciation and 4 quarter, but sales grew 10.2 percent to $446.5 million. officer of Warner Music Inter- Armando Branchini, presi- amortization this year will grow INNERWEAR: Industry veteran Nancy Ganz is back with R. Lilly by Tuck- national, a division of Warner dent of Milan-based consultancy 20 percent, while sales should erwear, an undergarment and lifestyle line aimed at tweens. Music Group. The Italian ex- InterCorporate, said he was rise between 6 and 8 percent. 8 ecutive has spent 10 years at the surprised Alessandro Benetton Benetton said it will invest be- Retail prices on women’s apparel swelled 0.8 percent last month and music company, fi rst as chairman didn’t opt for a fashion insider, tween 250 million euros, or $330.6 18 5.2 percent for a year earlier, the Consumer Price Index revealed. of operations in southern Europe but he considers Caccia Dom- million, and 300 million euros, or and later as chairman for all of inioni’s music background a $396.7 million, this year, most of Obituary...... 4 the European business. valuable asset. Warner’s portfo- it on international expansion. Benetton said Caccia Dom- lio of recording artists includes Since 2003, the Benettons Classifi ed Advertisements...... 21-23 inioni played a signifi cant role in Madonna, Green Day, Red Hot have said they want to step back growing Warner’s international Chili Peppers and R.E.M. from day-to-day operations, act- To e-mail reporters and editors at WWD, the address is fi rstname. presence in about 40 countries, “The elder members of the ing as shareholders rather than [email protected], using the individual’s name. including emerging markets. Benetton family would not have managers. The company reiter- Benetton said it chose the execu- chosen anyone from the enter- ated that intent Friday. WWD IS A REGISTERED TRADEMARK OF ADVANCE MAGAZINE PUBLISHERS INC. COPYRIGHT tive for his international experi- tainment world while Alessandro Caccia Dominioni is not the ©2007 FAIRCHILD FASHION GROUP. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. PRINTED IN THE U.S.A. VOLUME 193, NO. 58. WWD (ISSN 0149–5380) is published daily (except Saturdays, Sundays and holidays, with one ence, knowledge of local markets did,” Branchini said. “The com- first non-fashion executive to additional issue in January and November, two additional issues in March, May, June, August and December, and three and ability to thrive in an ever- pany needs to get back in touch take Benetton’s helm. The com- additional issues in February, April, September and October) by Fairchild Fashion Group, which is a division of Advance Magazine Publishers Inc. PRINCIPAL OFFICE: 750 Third Avenue, New York, NY 10017. Shared Services provided by evolving entertainment industry. with young consumers.” pany tends to turn to talent from Condé Nast Publications: S. I. Newhouse, Jr., Chairman; Charles H. Townsend, President/CEO; John W. Bellando, Executive “These characteristics, togeth- Benetton has faced some tough other industries. Cassano was a Vice President/COO; Debi Chirichella Sabino, Senior Vice President/CFO; Jill Bright, Executive Vice President/Human Resources. Periodicals postage paid at New York, NY, and at additional mailing offi ces. Canada Post Publications Mail er with his consistency and his times. Market observers have said former Fiat executive. His prede- Agreement No. 40644503. Canadian Goods and Services Tax Registration No. 886549096-RT0001. Canada Post: return capacity to create a cohesive and the company needs to do a better cessors Luigi De Puppi and Carlo undeliverable Canadian addresses to: P.O. Box 503, RPO West Beaver Cre, Rich-Hill, ON L4B 4R6 POSTMASTER: SEND ADDRESS CHANGES TO WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY, P.O. Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA motivated managerial team, are job of competing with more fash- Gilardi came from the worlds of 91615–5008. FOR SUBSCRIPTIONS, ADDRESS CHANGES, ADJUSTMENTS, OR BACK ISSUE particularly in-line with the en- ion-forward chains Hennes & home appliances and banking, INQUIRIES: Please write to WWD, P.O. Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA 91615-5008, call 800-289-0273, or visit www.subnow.com/wd. Please give both new and old addresses as printed on most recent label. First copy of new trepreneurial culture, capability Mauritz and Inditex’s Zara. respectively. subscription will be mailed within four weeks after receipt of order. Address all editorial, business, and production correspondence to WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY, 750 Third Avenue, New York, NY 10017. For permissions and reprint requests, please call 212-630-4274 or fax requests to 212-630-4280. Visit us online at www.wwd.com. To subscribe to other Fairchild magazines on the World Wide Web, visit www.fairchildpub.com. Occasionally, we make our subscriber list available to carefully screened companies that offer products and services that we believe would interest our readers. If you do not want to receive these offers and/or information, please advise us at P.O. Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA Ann Taylor Profi ts Fall 21.5% in 4th Quarter 91615-5008 or call 800-289-0273. WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY IS NOT RESPONSIBLE FOR THE RETURN OR LOSS OF, OR FOR DAMAGE OR ANY OTHER INJURY TO, UNSOLICITED MANUSCRIPTS, UNSOLICITED ART WORK (INCLUDING, from $43.2 million. Comparable- percent to $1.15 billion and Ann BUT NOT LIMITED TO, DRAWINGS, PHOTOGRAPHS, AND TRANSPARENCIES), OR ANY OTHER UNSOLICITED By David Moin MATERIALS. THOSE SUBMITTING MANUSCRIPTS, PHOTOGRAPHS, ART WORK, OR OTHER MATERIALS FOR store sales declined 6 percent Taylor sales grew 4.4 percent to CONSIDERATION SHOULD NOT SEND ORIGINALS, UNLESS SPECIFICALLY REQUESTED TO DO SO BY WOMEN’S WEAR ashion misses, the warm and fell 5.9 percent at Ann $912.8 million. DAILY IN WRITING. MANUSCRIPTS, PHOTOGRAPHS, AND OTHER MATERIALS SUBMITTED MUST BE ACCOMPANIED BY FDecember and heavy mark- Taylor and 8.9 percent at Loft. The fi rm also revealed a string A SELF-ADDRESSED STAMPED ENVELOPE. downs hurt fourth-quarter sales Total sales in the quarter rose of growth initiatives, including: and earnings at AnnTaylor Stores 6.3 percent to $610.5 million ● Developing an exclusive MONDAY: New York Holiday Market (through March 30). Corp., though the specialty re- from $574 million. The retailer’s beauty business and partnering tailer came out ahead for the 2006 fourth quarter and fi scal with Robin Burns and her new TUESDAY: Perry Ellis International reports fourth- year overall. year included an extra week. product-development business, quarter and year-end sales and earnings. Kay Krill, president and “At Loft, we had much success called Venustas International, chief executive offi cer, said in in the fi rst half with the brand- as reported in WWD Friday. WEDNESDAY: Filo yarn fair, Milan (through Thursday). a conference call that, while appropriate product offering ● Loft maternity will launch Charming Shoppes, Ross Stores and Stein Mart re- the business suffered from mer- that our clients loved,” Krill said. at select stores and online. port fourth-quarter and year-end sales and earnings. chandise issues primarily at the “However, in the second half we ● A new stand-alone concept Loft division, they could be cor- did not offer the appropriate bal- will be unveiled in fall 2008. No THURSDAY: International Vision Expo East, New York rected for fall and there were no ance of updated classics versus details were available. (through Sunday). fundamental brand issues at ei- fashion.” ● A Loft Factory concept will Intertextile Beijing and Yarn Expo, Beijing (through ther Loft or Ann Taylor. Both are The results for the year over- bow in summer 2008. Saturday). poised for growth, Krill said. all were better, largely due to ● A $300 million share repur- New York & Co. reports fourth-quarter and year-end For the fourth quarter ended a strong fi rst half and good in- chase program was authorized, sales and earnings. Feb. 3, net income dropped 21.5 ventory management. Net sales the largest in its history. Nike Inc. reports third-quarter sales and earnings. percent to $21.5 million, or 31 rose 13 percent to $2.3 billion The company projects earnings cents a diluted share, compared on a 2.8 percent gain in comp- per diluted share in fi scal 2007 in FRIDAY: Brighte Cos. and Designers & Agents, Los with $27.4 million, or 38 cents, in store sales. Net income rose 75 the range of $2.15 to $2.25, comp- Angeles (through March 26). the year-ago quarter. percent to $143 million, and on store gains in the low-single-digit The New Mart Fall I Apparel Market, Los Angeles Operating income declined a per-share basis, to $1.98. range and capital expenditures of (through March 27). 29.3 percent to $30.5 million Loft’s sales advanced 15.6 $150 million to $160 million. SATURDAY: StyleMax, Chicago (through March 27). China International Clothing & Accessories Fair,

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4 WWD, MONDAY, MARCH 19, 2007 Obituary WWD.COM Kellwood 4Q Net Down, Retailer Janet Brown But Still in Black for ’06 By Bridget Foley NEW YORK — Janet Brown, whose tiny By Whitney Beckett namesake store on Long Island developed into a shopping mecca for a wealthy, dis- ellwood Co. reported re- creet clientele, died Friday after suffering a Kduced earnings during the heart attack driving to work from her home fourth quarter after a onetime in Oyster Bay, N.Y., said a friend, Brooke restructuring charge, but the Garber Neidich. Brown was 59. firm reached positive year-end As the savvy, demonstrative purveyor of results. refi ned, ultra-tony merchandise from an un- In the quarter ended Feb. 3, likely outpost, Brown developed into an in- net income fell 44.3 percent to dustry legend. In an era when the small in- $7 million, or 27 cents a diluted dependent retailer had all but disappeared, share, from $12.5 million, or 49 she built and maintained a highly successful cents, in the year-ago period. designer business from a mundane space in Buoyed by organic sales Port Washington, N.Y. Her secret was know- growth across categories and ing her customer, inspiring her to be adven- the acquisitions of Vince and turous within reason, and never falling prey Hollywould, sales of the St. to senseless trend mongering. Louis-based company increased Brown treated her clients like friends, 10.2 percent to $491.9 million and in fact many became her friends, while on the phone every other day because she from $446.5 million in the same engaging in a level of salesmanship that was like a mother, a sister, a friend and a quarter last year. could only be called masterful. It was not mentor. We met more than 16 years ago when For the year, earnings swung unusual for a customer to drop by “just to I was working at Jil Sander and when I moved into the black to reach $31.4 mil- say hello,’’ only to have lunch ordered for to Marni she took me under her wing. lion, or $1.21 a diluted share, her and leave, several hours later, fi ve fi g- “Janet was behind Marni’s U.S. success,’’ from a loss of $38.4 million, or ures in the red. Zabeni said. “In 1997, the brand was making $1.42, last year. Brown favored European, especially shredded and fashion-forward furs that not Sales for the year increased a Italian, merchandise. She was fiercely everyone understood. I will always remem- fraction of a percent to $1.96 bil- loyal to her resources and aggressive in the ber a trunk show in her store in those years lion. Fiscal year 2006 included hunt for new collections. To that end, she where, thanks to her ability, we sold 200 mil- 53 weeks, while fi scal year 2005 was among the fi rst retailers in the U.S. to lion lire worth of furs. It was a big success. was 52 weeks. support directional collections such as Jil “Once she invited the Castiglionis and “Kellwood made solid prog- Sander and Marni. myself to dinner at her house in Long ress in the fourth quarter of “I’m shocked and saddened and will miss Island. It was one of the most unforgettable 2006,” Robert C. Skinner Jr., her,’’ Sander said. evenings thanks to the familial atmosphere president, chairman and chief Brown had a big personality and a clever and her great sense of humor. Janet pushed wit. Commenting on Sander’s return to her me to branch out on my own. She said, house after the designer’s initial falling out ‘Come on Morena, it’s time to start mak- with Prada’s Patrizio Bertelli, she raised ing money for yourself,’ and she helped me Our recent results demonstrate that her arms in the air, waved her hands and fi nd clients,’’ including Lambertson Truex, “ called out, “Thank you, Jesus!’’ Tomas Maier and Dianora Salviati. the actions we are taking are working. We But when it came to business, she was “In 1999, she convinced me to give birth serious. Her success was rooted as much to my daughter in New York so that she expect to build upon our revitalized business in how she treated people, both her clients could have an American passport. I’ll miss and her staff, as in her brilliant eye for the her terribly. It will never be the same with- platforms and see continued improvement in kind of quiet chic her customers wanted. On out her.’’ buying trips to European designers, Brown’s Brown spent the three days before her profi tability in future quarters. selections from collections were made with death at a trunk show at the Regency Hotel ” specifi c clients in mind, based on her inti- in Manhattan. In recent years, she had — Robert C. Skinner Jr., Kellwood Co. mate knowledge of their lifestyles and their taken to staging such events for her New personalities. York City customers. This season she invit- executive offi cer, said in a conference call Friday. Consuelo Castiglioni, who designs Marni ed Neidich, who does work for her family’s “This past fall and during the holiday season, we began to experience and owns the company with her husband Chicago-based jewelry business, to show the benefi ts from our efforts to revitalize our Sag Harbor and Calvin Klein Gianni, said, “Everybody at Marni will dearly some pieces. On Thursday night with the women’s better sportswear offerings,’’ he added. miss Janet. We have loved Janet from day event almost over, Neidich suggested they The onetime charge of $7.7 million was included for the quarter as part of one. Her unfaltering support and affection go to dinner. “I told her, ‘You’re exhausted. the company’s restructuring efforts, which Kellwood said are now complete. over the years toward us and our collection Your people are terrifi c. They have every- Women’s sportswear sales gained 9 percent in the quarter over the same have been very important. Janet was an inspi- thing under control,’’’ she recalled. “But period last year. The company identifi ed Sag Harbor and Calvin Klein wom- ration and institution for Marni in the U.S.’’ Janet said, ‘No. The captain stays with her en’s better sportswear as lines that had particularly seen improved results, Robert Burke of Robert Burke Associates, fi rst mates.’’’ while the company was disappointed with the Halmode dress and suit busi- the luxury consulting fi rm, said, “Janet had Brown is survived by her sister, Elaine ness performance. a sixth sense for luxury.’’ He described Edelstein; brother-in-law Marc Edelstein, Its acquisition of Vince and Hollywould during the fourth quarter, plus Brown’s store as “small, simple and incred- and a niece and nephew, Melissa and the 2007 relaunches of O Oscar, Democracy and David Dart, bolstered the ibly well-edited.…What stood out was the Brandon. A funeral service will be held company’s expectations going forward. product and the mix of product, and at the at 11:30 a.m., Tuesday, at the Frank E. For 2006, about 30 percent of Kellwood’s business came from better and end of the day, she was an incredible sales- Campbell Funeral Home, 1076 Madison above price points. The company expects that number to climb to 35 percent person and merchant.’’ Avenue, at 81st Street, in Manhattan. this year, moving toward the fi ve-year goal of at least 50 percent, which the Morena Zabeni, owner of a Milan-based — With contributions from Alessandra company predicted it will beat in the call Friday. showroom called Winwood, said: “We spoke Ilari, Milan, and David Moin, New York “While pleased with our progress, we are certainly not satisfi ed, as we know we can perform still better,” Skinner said. “Our recent results demon- strate that the actions we are taking are working. We expect to build upon our revitalized business platforms and see continued improvement in profi t- ability in future quarters.” Donna Karan to Move London Flagship The company provided positive guidance, projecting $490 million to $500 million in sales from ongoing operations for the fi rst quarter next year, com- onna Karan is moving her London Karan opened the New Bond Street pared with $493.8 million this year. Kellwood expects earnings from con- Dfl agship to a shop around the corner. store in 1996. Designed by Peter Marino, tinued operations to be $5 million to $5.5 million, or 19 cents to 21 cents a At the end of April, Karan will shut the it was her fi rst global fl agship and set the diluted share, up from $3.9 million, or 25 cents, this year. doors to her Collection fl agship at 19 New tone for subsequent company-owned bou- For fi scal year 2007, the vendor expects net sales from ongoing opera- Bond Street, and at the same time reopen tiques on Madison Avenue, the Americana tions to range from $2 billion to $2.03 billion, compared with $1.96 billion at 46 Conduit Street. The new, smaller in Manhasset, N.Y., and South Coast Plaza last year. It projects earnings from ongoing operations will reach $47 mil- fl agship is located in a four-story land- in Costa Mesa, Calif. lion to $49 million, or $1.80 to $1.89 a diluted share, up from $42.5 million, marked townhouse. New Bond Street has reportedly sur- or $1.64, in 2006. The shop, for which the square foot- passed Oxford Street as among the most In a separate development, Kellwood fi led a copyright infringement age wasn’t available, is expected to have expensive retail real estate stretches lawsuit Thursday against Caché Inc. and Adrienne Victoria Design Inc. in a more intimate, cozier feel than the spa- in London, and it is widely believed the Manhattan federal court. cious, imposing 9,000-square-foot New Donna Karan Collection store has been Kellwood alleged in legal papers that Caché sold apparel that infringed Bond Street locale. “For me, it’s the more challenged to turn a profi t there. Karan on its David Meister Ivory Garden design, a textile design based on an origi- intimate experience, especially when will be in good company on Conduit nal work of art by Creations Robert Vernet. The lawsuit alleges that Caché it comes to Collection,” Karan said. The Street. The street has seen an infl ux of sold infringing dresses. Kellwood is seeking a permanent injunction and overall feel of the new unit is like a home, fashion labels in recent years, including unspecifi ed damages. Caché declined to comment. with features such as an indoor and out- Stella McCartney, Matthew Williamson, — With contributions from Liza Casabona door garden. Vivienne Westwood and Voyage. WWD, MONDAY, MARCH 19, 2007 5 WWD.COM Pacifi c Time It ain’t over yet. The Los Angeles season is upon us, with designers delivering looks that range from subtle to edgy.

Corey Lynn Calter: Stepping beyond her usual Fifties party frocks, Corey Lynn Calter sent out an East Coast coed who’s quirky, but still likes to show a little leg. Charming looks included Modigliani and Lauren Malevich-inspired printed minis, and Alexander wide-legged pants teamed with skinny sweaters and silk blouses. Calter hit the right notes when she stuck to simple lines complemented by pops of color. Kevin Ziji Johnn Kitten Caboodle ou know there’s a problem when, an hour after the shows Ywere supposed to begin, the runway is still being built. In fact, the production values of Kitten Fashion Week, the Kitten magazine-sponsored event that ran Thursday through Saturday at The Downtown Standard in Los Angeles, could hardly have been worse. But once the models fi nally hit the runway — three hours late — there were several high points. At Ziji, for instance, Gen Art alums Nansi Aluka and Katerina Gabbro delivered an appealing lineup of bib-front sheath dresses and double-cuffed men’s shirts worn with classic trousers. Lauren Alexander and Kevin Johnn, however, had the Eighties on their minds. Alexander showed a spiffy athletic-inspired collection embellished with gold zippers and pops of cobalt blue and fall neon colors, while Johnn, a former “Project LOS ’07 Runway” contestant, channeled Azzedine Alaïa with minimal bodysuits and minidresses in black, white or red. Meanwhile, at Pudel, ANGELES Scandinavian designer Lina Osterman took a tough-girl route with ripped and shredded lay- ers that seemed cool and wearable, even on the strung-out-looking models. PHOTOS BY TYLER BOYE AND DONATO SARDELLA AND DONATO TYLER BOYE PHOTOS BY

who walk on stage in that horse-like prancing that runway models do — but they’re mocking it. It’s pretty cool.”

Fashion Scoops DEVIOUS DOPPELGANGERS?: If Internet “It” girl and 17-year-old Nylon columnist Cory Kennedy looks familiar to a certain generation GIRL TALK: Los Angeles Fashion Week of partygoers, could it be because of her eerie resemblance to kicked off, naturally, with a celebrity-hosted another precocious party-lover, Bijou Phillips, now 26? A front-row party, Bebe Sport’s bash for spokesmodel guest at Corey Lynn Calter’s fashion show Thursday night, Kennedy Eva Longoria at Skybar Wednesday night. has found notoriety through her MySpace page and her underage Known more for the skivvies she wears on exploits (such as blogging from a Diddy party and hanging out “Desperate Housewives” than for sweating it with Vincent Gallo). That behavior may parallel some of Phillips’ out at the gym, the petite actress turned out wild-child days in the mid-Nineties, which include escapades of for the obligatory public appearance, saying, table-dancing at Moomba, dating older rockers (former Lemonheads “It’s an athletic line, so it’s a really good frontman Evan Dando) and allegedly snipping off a suitor’s fi ngers fi t for me.” Longoria kept her composure with a cigar cutter at a club. Let’s hope Los Angeles’ no-smoking in the increasingly crowded VIP area while rule eliminates that particular bit of history repeating itself. her handlers grew more and more agitated, hissing orders to underlings and warding off FASHION ENTOURAGE: As Vince, the street-smart New Yorker who would-be well-wishers who came to gawk at becomes a Hollywood movie star on HBO’s “Entourage,” Adrian her and new mom Marcia Cross, Katherine Grenier tries to keep it real. At Thursday night’s bash celebrating McPhee and Sanaa Lathan. the launch of the jeans that AG Adriano Goldschmied designed Much more relaxed and less crowded was for the hit series, Grenier kept it perhaps a little too real. “I don’t Corey Lynn Calter’s Lucky-sponsored cocktail think this little endeavor is going to affect the [wardrobe or story Bijou Phillips party downtown at Marvimon House the line] of ‘Entourage,’” Grenier (who was sporting a pair of Seven Eva Longoria next night. Christina Ricci, Nora Zehetner, For All Mankind jeans) said, surrounded by star-struck ladies Maggie Grace and snapping pictures of him on their cell phones in AG’s Robertson Rachael Christina Rachael Leigh Cook Ricci Boulevard boutique. He added that he has no plans to design his Leigh sipped Cosmopolitans own line, having experienced the catty side of the industry playing Cook in the brick courtyard, Anne Hathaway’s neglected boyfriend in “The Devil Wears Prada.” checking out each other’s dresses. Glancing “The fashion world can be more intricately interesting than I around the space, Grace said, “I thought thought previously,” he said. At least “Entourage” co-star Rex Lee wearing boots without tights would be picked up the sartorial slack. Lee, who plays Jeremy Piven’s much- somewhat of a risk, but I didn’t want to look abused assistant Lloyd, sported dark AG denim and said he hopes like everyone else.” Case in point: Behind her, to squeeze runway shows by Ed Hardy and other designers at Los another PYT sported the same frock — with Angeles Fashion Week into his shooting schedule. “I’m not the black tights. “Thank goodness I didn’t wear obvious person to invite,” Lee said. “I like fashion shows…seeing them,” she said. “I don’t usually do the L.A. what I’m going to wear.” fashion show thing, but I know Corey from Pilates class and I love her clothes,” said BRIDE-TO-BE: Behnaz Sarafpour has a lot of reasons to sparkle lately. Ricci. Meanwhile, front-row regular Anthony A few days after her fall New York show last month, the designer Kiedis was busy telling a friend about singer got engaged to her boyfriend, Evan Christopher Shumeyko. Sarafpour Maggie Mickey Avalon, the opening act for his band won’t be walking down the aisle in her adopted hometown of New Grace Red Hot Chili Peppers. “He’s got these girls York, though — the wedding is planned for late summer in Bermuda. Cory Kennedy PHILLIPS PHOTO BY MATTHEW SIMMONS/WIREIMAGE; ALL OTHERS BY DONATO SARDELLA DONATO SIMMONS/WIREIMAGE; ALL OTHERS BY MATTHEW PHILLIPS PHOTO BY 6 WWD, MONDAY, MARCH 19, 2007

Lanvin Gucci

Comme des Garçons

the broad What’s big and bold and turning up all over? squad Exaggerated shoulders, that’s what, some worthy of a defensive lineman, in treatments ranging from peaked pagodas to whimsical appliqués. WWD, MONDAY, MARCH 19, 2007 7 WWD.COM

Valentino Balenciaga

Stella McCartney

Wunderkind Lutz PHOTOS BY GIOVANNI GIANNONI, DOMINIQUE MAITRE AND STEFANO BIANCHI GIANNONI, DOMINIQUE MAITRE AND STEFANO GIOVANNI PHOTOS BY 8 WWD, MONDAY, MARCH 19, 2007 WWD.COM Innerwear Report Ganz Targets Tweens With R. Lilly by Tuckerwear By Karyn Monget a crucial time in their lives to help build self-esteem, achieve healthy body images and make healthy lifestyle here’s a new category of undergarments and life- choices,” Ganz said. Items retail for $13.50 to $38. Tstyle pieces that are aimed at a specific consumer “I designed Bodyslimmers to give women a boost, segment — tweens. physically and emotionally,” Ganz said. “Let’s face it, The brand is called R. Lilly by Tuckerwear, a com- no matter how fi t you are, a little extra support doesn’t pact collection of nylon and Lycra spandex camis, hurt. R. Lilly Tuckerwear allows a young girl to wear tanks, leggings, pants, chemises and slips that double specially designed pieces that are neither too babyish, as dresses, the brainchild of Nancy Ganz, the creator of nor too mature. Building self-esteem and making sure the Hipslip, shapewear that became a household name young girls feel good about themselves on every level is in the late Eighties and Nineties. Ganz, who sold the important to me personally.” Bodyslimmers by Nancy Ganz brand to The Warnaco She pointed out that it was “very diffi cult” to get Group in 1997 for more than $1 million, has kept busy marketing information on tweens outside the entourage raising her children, 16-year-old Max, and the line’s of her 11-year-old daughter and friends, saying: “They namesake, 11-year-old Rachel Lilly. don’t have their market. Everything is for babies and Now Ganz serves as president of year-old R. Lilly teens. It makes you wonder why [tweens] wear slutty Tuckerwear Inc., which also has been a staunch advocate clothes way too early. This market is wide open.” of children’s empowerment initiatives, primarily with According to Euromonitor International, a global the New York University Child Study Center. Ganz said business research fi rm, tweens are “empowered with 10 percent of R. Lilly sales will be donated to the child money to burn.” A Euromonitor report in 2006 enti- study center generated through fi rst-day business at tled “Tweens: A Force to be Reckoned With: Changing Bloomingdale’s New York fl agship. Bloomingdale’s will Consumption Habits of 8-12 Year Olds,” concluded that stage Fashion Show & Fun Tea for Mothers & Daughters “tweens’ spending worldwide is higher than ever at an on Tuesday at the eighth-fl oor kids’ department. estimated $170 billion.” “Bloomingdale’s was one of Nancy Ganz’s earliest “They are starting to develop their sense of self-iden- supporters when she launched Bodyslimmers,’’ said tity and are anxious to have products that will cultivate Anne Keating, senior vice president of public rela- a sophisticated self-image,” the report said. “They are tions, special events and corporate philanthropy at the more aware than ever before of what they should or retailer. “We’re pleased to have the exclusive on her should not look like, how they should behave and what new venture, too.” to listen to. This is partly due to marketing initiatives Distribution is likely to be expanded to more that force children to grow up quickly, since marketers Bloomingdale’s doors, Ganz said. have discovered that treating tweens like teenagers is a The concept behind the line, aimed primarily at girls lucrative business.” in the seven-to-14 age range, as well as teenagers who In addition to dual-purpose pieces that feature want fashionable, sophisticated undergarments and double-layered front treatments designed to support a lounge looks with a streetwear fl avor, is to “establish young girl’s developing fi gure, Ganz has designed a spe- Alexandra Crown wears a a new initiative focused on young girls and tweens at cifi c item called the Be4Teen cropped tank, a contempo- tank and lounge pants.

Rachel Crown and Chelsea rary alternative to what used to called a “training bra.” Lilly Steir Cohn model Be4Teen Ganz said she gleaned the idea to do a crossover models a cropped tanks. bra for tweens after hearing parents complain, “‘What top and should I buy my daughter? She doesn’t want a bra yet.’” fl utter- “I began noticing that so many young girls were an- cropped orexic, bulimic or into substance abuse, and many of the pants. tweens were looking like teens,” Ganz said. “I thought, ‘Wouldn’t it be good to do something to promote a healthy body image?’ ” Ganz launched an interactive e-commerce Web site called rlillytuckerwear.com in December. Created by Charles McCoy of Avatar, a Web site design fi rm in New York, it was introduced in 2005 as a resource for young girls to communicate positive information on their likes and dislikes on links such as “Girl Talk,” which focuses on everything from school and socializing, to favorite foods, music and video games. In addition to launching an online shopping link this year with hip visuals and tag lines such as “Movin’ & Groovin’,” “All Layered Up” and “Pump Up the Party,” the site serves as a lab for personality profi les called “Choose an Attitude.” Alessia The next move will come in April when the interac- Masolo tive “Fantasy Fashion Game” will be launched on the shows off a site. While it may be fun to play, the copyrighted game, layered look which took one year to create, also will be an education- of nylon and al business tool for viewers to design clothes, style and Lycra. manage a store, learn to sell designs in New York and

PHOTOS BY KYLE ERICKSEN KYLE PHOTOS BY Los Angeles, create a showroom and design a logo.

Nundies is Nundies: Contemporary Product With Dual-Purpose Flair packaged with fun DALLAS — Panty lines aren’t a problem on a small test basis after researchers whelmingly positive, according to Jan visuals. with Nundies, a new single-use dispos- and chemical engineers at Advanced Strimple, a veteran model and fashion able panty that adheres to the inside Materials realized that the company’s ex- event producer who has also worked as front of pants. clusive adhesive might have uses beyond a consultant for Advanced Materials. Designed as an alternative to under- medicine. Consumer marketing research Mortensen declined to give a sales wear, thongs or G-strings, Nundies are yielded some interesting data, specifi cal- projection, but said he expects to sell shaped like a small tulip, made of nylon ly that most women hate panty lines, but about 500,000 Nundies units over the and Lycra spandex and feature a pro- want to maintain a degree of coverage yet next 12 months. prietary medical-grade adhesive tape to like the idea of going bare in the back. Nundies currently is sold at select avoid allergic reactions or skin rashes. “We realized there was demand for Neiman Marcus stores and there are Sold in packages of fi ve for $15, Nundies a product like Nundies,” said William plans to sell them at the new Cusp chain. are available in black, buff and fashion Mortensen, president and chief fi nan- Smaller specialty innerwear stores also colors. cial officer at Advanced Materials. sell Nundies, such as Sheers, the Body The Nundies brand is owned by “There were already paste-on products Wear Bar in Dallas, and Banker-Phillips Dallas-based Advanced Materials, a for use under tops and blouses to give Lingerie stores in Nashville and $10 million publicly traded company a bare look while maintaining a certain Knoxville, Tenn., as well as e-commerce that makes a variety of medical-related degree of coverage.” sites herroom.com and mynundies.com. products, including diet patches, mam- As a marketing test, Nundies were Nundies offi cials said the product also mography pads, single-use ice packs and included in gift bags for women attend- will be sold starting this spring in Bliss wound-care products. ing the posh Cattle Barons Ball here Spa catalogues and at blissworld.com. Nundies launched last September last September. The response was over- — Rusty Williamson WWD, MONDAY, MARCH 19, 2007 9 WWD.COM Accessories/Legwear Report

FOOT UP: Wolford, Austria’s high- thinking about hats,” said King. “We want people asking themselves whether they end hosiery maker, said Friday its should be wearing a hat or not before they go outside.” “strategic repositioning” over the Succeeding King is Ashley Fichthorn of F&M Hat Co., who began his one-year FINDINGS last couple of years was paying presidential term at the dinner. The evening’s keynote speaker was John Milano, off. The company reported net former president of the Resistol Hat Co. and founder of the Milano Hat Co. in income in the three months through Jan. 31 increased 64.2 percent to 3.3 Garland, Tex. million euros, or $3.9 million at current exchange, while sales grew 21 percent to 43.1 million euros, or $57 million, because of robust business FEMME FATALE: Italian watchmaker Parmigiani launched its fi rst full women’s in the company’s main markets. collection titled, appropriately, Femme, last month. Meanwhile, the fi rm said Ronald van der Kemp, who has designed at In keeping with the 10-year-old brand’s iconic rectangular face and precision Escada and Celine, would succeed Antonio Berardi as Wolford’s new head timekeeping, the collection is a smaller, more feminine version of its male counterpart designer, confi rming a Feb. 22 report in WWD. Berardi spent less than and is available in three sizes: the Piccola and mid-sized Donna, both of which operate a year with Wolford, which had asked him to give its numerous product in quartz movement, and the Grande, available in automatic movement. The Donna and categories, including a burgeoning ready-to-wear collection, a sharper focus. Piccola models come in red, lilac, champagne, ivory, black and mother-of-pearl. Looking forward, Wolford said it expected sales for the fi nancial year to “I wanted to interpret this new collection of movement specifi cally for ladies,” said reach at least 136 million euros, with operating profi t outpacing sales growth longtime Parmigiani consultant Jean-Marc Jacot. “For women, color and style are very in percentage terms. important, but the watch is still the same quality.” For the Femme collection, Parmigiani employed French design house Hermès as its A Parmigiani BE MY VALENTINE: After a year in business, Carrie Valentine is getting even watch strap provider. The watches range from a retail value of $5,600 for the steel model to watch. more connected with her customers, who include Jessica Biel, Kate Bosworth $26,600 for the diamond-encrusted, rose gold pieces. and Fergie. Earlier this month, the 24-year-old accessories designer launched e-commerce on her Web site. “I really focus on creating unique, yet classy designs,” said Valentine, whose handbags are inspired by moods, such as with the Confi dence clutch, Relaxed Chic satchel and Envy hobo. “I’m simple yet edgy.” The bags retail from $230 to $500 and also sell at select Bloomingdale’s.

The Moët & Chandon Star Bag.

BEACH CHIC: Just in time for summer is the must-have picnic accessory of the season, the Moët & Chandon Star Bag. Whether boarding the yacht or hanging on the beach, the nautical-themed tote makes it easy to bring the bubbly along. To ensure the perfect temperature, the bag has an insulated lining that can unzip to hold ice. And of course, a bottle of Moët & Chandon White Star Champagne is included inside every bag. The Star Bag will be available for $60 in May at fi ne retailers.

HATS OFF: The Headwear Association held its annual dinner on Thursday night at New York’s Tavern on the Green. Headwear designers, manufacturers and distributors from all over the country joined to celebrate their favorite accessory. Todd Gardner, vice president of merchandising for Dorfman Pacifi c, the largest U.S. hat distributor based in Stockton, Calif., acknowledged the need for such an event. “We’re trying to fi gure out ways to bring awareness to headwear both for fashion and function,” said Gardner. “We want people to wear hats to stop skin cancer and premature aging.” Also on hand was the association’s departing president, Wilson King, who is also president of the Outback Trading Co. “We need to get people 10 WWD, MONDAY, MARCH 19, 2007

Jewelry Feature Bulgari Looks to U.S. for Growth By Sophia Chabbott $750 for a gold BZero1 ring to more than $5 million for a 28-carat ruby and diamond ring. Watch prices go from fter amping up product categories and sharpening $1,400 to $150,000 for a limited edition watch with mul- Aretail strategies in Europe and Asia, Bulgari, the tiple complications. Roman jewelry firm, is expanding in the Americas. The mezzanine and second fl oor will offer accesso- The company, founded by Sotirio Bulgaris in the fi rst ries, a segment of the business the brand is intent on half of the 19th century in Pindhos, Greece, then soon growing. Last year, the fi rm’s leather and exotic-skin moving to Rome’s Via Condotti, is marking the renewed handbags, eyewear, scarves, men’s ties and small leather U.S. focus this week with the opening of its redesigned goods were merchandised together in Bulgari’s fi rst ac- Manhattan fl agship on one of retail’s most famous junc- cessories-only stores. Bulgari handbags range from $700 tions: Fifth Avenue and 57th Street. to $6,000 and higher for special pieces. “New York is the most important market for us in the Accessories-only Bulgari stores now operate in Milan U.S.,” said Francesco Trapani, the brand’s chief execu- and Florence, although Trapani said he has no plans to tive offi cer. “We have a very aggressive plan for the next open a dedicated accessories space in New York. three to fi ve years [in the U.S.].” “The accessories market is very big and it’s growing,” The brand has 15 stores in the U.S., including lo- said Trapani, who added that the fi rm’s accessories sales cations in San Francisco, Chicago, Honolulu and Las have reached 100 million euros, or $133 million at current Vegas. There are plans to open 15 to 20 units within exchange. “But of course, we are a small company in this three to fi ve years in several locales, including Boca arena. We are focusing the attention to products...in addi- Raton, Fla. In South America, stores are on tap in tion to building our own distribution network.” Bogota, Colombia; São Paolo, Brazil and Caracas, Trapani named Prada and Chanel as competitors in Venezuela. The company has 185 stores in 22 countries. accessories. The 13,590-square-foot Manhattan store opened in High jewelry and precious ladies’ watches are top 1989 and closed for renovations about a year ago. It is sellers, he said, and indicated that the watch that will Bulgari’s largest U.S. store. be launched next month at Baselworld Watch & Jewelry The overhauled store has an additional 1,000 square Show in Basel, Switzerland, would be an all-gold watch- feet of selling space because of a new mezzanine, and is case with a gold bracelet. lighter and breezier, with partitions and small vitrines The New York store will offer limited edition coin A rendering of Bulgari’s Fifth Avenue fl agship. inset in curving walls. The space exemplifi es a contem- necklaces with Roman coins from the fi fth century B.C. porary aesthetic, with an angular backlit staircase made The coins, which are set into gold pendants and evening this year, the company is going to expand its new hotel of copper-fi nished steel, Margaritelli wood fl oors, Roman- bags, are from the personal collection of third-genera- business, scouting locations in New York and Paris. inspired Trani marble walls, chrome and glass cases and tion Bulgari family member and company chairman, There are two Bulgari Hotels & Resorts, in Milan and a 21-foot glass facade. Nicola Bulgari. Bali, Indonesia, that have a modern, but classically The 11 large vitrines that wrap around the Fifth Avenue Bulgari is so entwined in its Roman history that it Roman, ambience. and 57th Street sides will be fi lled starting next month also wants to support it. Next month, the company will “The fact that we have a long history and heritage is with rare and antique jewelry, watches and precious eve- host the opening fete for the new Greek and Roman a company advantage,” Trapani said. ning bags from the company’s vintage museum collection Galleries at New York’s Metropolitan Museum of Art. In January, Bulgari reported fourth-quarter sales in celebration of the store opening. The company also has its eye on enterprises that fall rose 4 percent to 323.6 million euros, or $417.4 million. The main fl oor will house one-of-a-kind high jewel- outside of the jewelry and fashion category. In addition For the year ended Dec. 31, sales were up 10 percent to ry, day jewelry and watches. Retail prices range from to working on a skin care line to be launched in Italy 1.01 billion euros, or $1.27 billion.

Heuer’s North American business. Lalonde took on his current role in January. “[In the beginning,] we were after consumers who knew the brand and people Louis Vuitton Keeps Watches Ticking who are interested in watches and attracting new consumers, as well,” he said. he Swiss watchmaking community is closely guarded and bonded by the stead- “We’re very serious about watchmaking.” Tfast tradition of making timepieces. Lalonde said the fi rm’s U.S. watch business is an important and fast-growing Although Geneva-based brands such as Patek Philippe, Vacheron Constantin category. and Rolex follow in the centuries-old way of work, in the past decade or so, fash- “We see a lot of potential,” he said. “It’s a relatively new and emerging cat- ion brands have injected the fi ne watch market with a dose of what they do best egory for us.” — color, design and, well, fashion. Lalonde indicated that, although the fi rm’s early watches were targeted toward a Chanel has had success with its ceramic J12 collection of timepieces. Hermès, male consumer, there is room to grow the women’s business, namely with diamond- which has been creating watches since 1928, has a classic with the Cape Cod Double decorated watches. Tour. And Marc Jacobs, who launched watches last year, has had success with styles Now the company is launching its fi rst complete 18-karat gold ladies’ collection, such as a diamond-studded, vintage-inspired watch on a grosgrain strap. Gucci’s with the Tambour 18. There are six styles that are named after sweets, such as tof- Frida Giannini also has been taken by the category, and is to introduce a collection of fee apple and marshmallow. Each has the Vuitton signature monogram fl ower on 18-karat gold watches. the dial decorated whimsically with diamonds. One notable style is the limited edi- Even Ralph Lauren has gotten in on the act. Last month, Polo Ralph Lauren and tion Tambour 18 Fizz that incorporates a profusion of diamonds — 6.45 carats — in Compagnie Financière Richemont joined to create the Polo Ralph Lauren Watch a night-sky theme at $130,000. Other watches from the collection start at $15,000. and Jewellery Co., which will design, create and distribute luxury watches and fi ne Vuitton hasn’t neglected its focus on complications. The new Tambour XL LV jewelry under the Polo and Ralph Lauren brands. Cup Regatta Automatic Chronograph Black has a 10-minute countdown fl yback Powerhouse Louis Vuitton is celebrating fi ve years in the fi ne timepiece busi- function on a sporty dial. ness and threw a fete in its honor on Thursday at the its Fifth Avenue fl agship. In The watches are sold only in one-third of the fi rm’s 115 U.S. boutiques and there 2002, the fi rm opened a factory in Switzerland and launched watches with multiple are no plans for wholesale distribution. complications and jeweled details. “We’re probably one of the most selective watches in North America,” said Vuitton’s watches are serious timepieces, said Daniel Lalonde, president of Lalonde, who intends to keep it that way. “Part of our DNA is that when we get in- Louis Vuitton North America, who is a timepiece afi cionado, coming from the com- volved in a new category, [we try to] own our distribution in everything we do.” pany’s watch and jewelry division where, among other things, he helped bolster Tag — S.C. WWD, MONDAY, MARCH 19, 2007 11 WWD.COM Bags, Baubles on Upswing at Premiere Classe

By Katya Foreman and Ellen Groves Scouting new designers to recruit, Sylvia Witwicky from Salviati’s jewelry ateliers also detected “a lot of repetition,” pointing to skulls and large chains as elements that PARIS — Retailers confirmed a bubbling accessories market at the recent edition of have been around for three or four seasons. Premiere Classe. As a result, some were holding back on ordering. While some buyers said spending was down, most reported budgets at least 10 “I’m saving for in-season buying,” said Dylan Ross, managing director of Question percent higher than last year and some by as much as 40 percent. The event, which Air, which has fi ve stores in London. “A lot of designers get ideas mid-sea- ended its four-day stint here March 5, drew 12,510 visitors, 61 percent son and create mini capsule collections now.” foreigners. Nonetheless, many enjoyed the modern futurist theme channeled Key trends for jewelry included color and geometric by a number of jewelry brands. Catherine Doumerc, jewelry buyer forms. In bags, leaner styles and more condensed forms, for Printemps Haussmann, lauded the “playful” letter necklaces notably the clutch, were among the dominant directions, at Rafi a & Bossa and the Bakelite billiard ball-style necklaces by mainly in patent leather and muted metallics. Atelier Verstraeten. “The accessories world is exploding,” said Barbara Atkin, “It’s graphic…and makes a change, as often everything looks the fashion director at Holt Renfrew in Toronto, whose accesso- same. It’s the infl uence of our high-tech lifestyles,” she said, adding Michael ries sales are increasing in the double digits annually. prices had increased considerably over last year. Teperson’s Ice “Accessories are the new wardrobe; ready-to-wear is the Holt Renfrew’s Atkin, meanwhile, detected a shift to “in-your- Cube clutch. DOMINIQUE MAITRE PHOTOS BY new accessory,” added Holt’s Pat Dibratto, vice president of face luxury” in jewelry. accessories, footwear and jewelry for the upscale store. “It’s a backlash to the high street,” she said, citing Mawi’s chunky Many buyers sought collections that closely mirrored what gold necklaces that feature Thirties-style faceted fake gems and panther pen- was seen on the fall runways. dants à la Cartier. “We bought based on trends,” said Sheila Aimette, fashion di- Elsewhere, Stefano Poletti’s graphic, constellation-inspired neck- rector for accessories and shoes at Bloomingdale’s in New York. laces, as well as Dominique Denaive’s vibrant resin necklaces and With the abundance of short-sleeved coats across fall collec- Mawi’s big rings, were on Aimette’s shopping list. tions, long gloves will be more popular, she predicted, espe- chunky gold “Phillipe Audibert also had some strong sculptural bracelets,” cially in patent leather and quilted styles. necklace. she said. “Flashy colors such as cobalt blue, pink and splashes of or- Exhibitors reported an easing up on spending, with orders ange will be big,” said Aimette, who applauded the glove ranges coming from quality clients. of Agnelle and Georges Morand. “Hats will also be huge, as they “All the Americans and the British are here,” said high-end jew- were all over the collections, in particular cloche styles or struc- elry designer Jacques An Lanh. tured wide-brim hats with the Seventies feeling that the Marc Athanassios Kontos, manager for Aris Geldis, who landed fi rst- Jacobs show exemplifi ed.” time orders from Bloomingdale’s and Henri Bendel, said, “Buyers She cited Grevi, Marzi and Misa Harada from London among have been asking for more silver,” adding that bestsellers included the standout collections at the fair. brand’s long silver chains with chunky crystal balls. Certain retailers went against the grain and said offerings left some- Fur accessories at the show took a mixed media approach, combining knit thing to be desired. and fur, hairy furs with sheer furs, and fur with patchwork in hats and gloves, “This season, accessories have been uninspiring from Paris to New York,” said noted Atkin. Kassidy Babcock, buyer for Internet site Shopbop.com, which has just Stephanie Clairet, accessories buyer for Paris’ Bon Marché. “Metallics and patents been acquired by Amazon, lauded “tons of fur” seen in ski-inspired fur hats and fur are still a go-go.” outer trims, as well as long leather gloves. Ed Burstell, Bergdorf Goodman’s senior vice president and general merchandise Meanwhile, Sergio Becutti, designer for Italian scarf brand Ben Alder Scotland, manager of beauty, jewelry and accessories, said, “Premiere Classe was hit-and-miss” said following a “really tough season,” the brand had lightened up. and said it featured a lot of last season’s trends at half the price. He said newcomer “We’ve introduced lighter pieces, such as skinny wool scarves that seem to be Tila March’s canvas totes were a winner, however. working well,” he said. 12 WWD, MONDAY, MARCH 19, 2007

Financing Fashion Retailers Move Employees Overseas

Since employees and businesses fi nd moving overseas daunting, many fi rms hire relocation companies that say they provide services ranging from moving to language training. By Jeanine Poggi experts to make the move as seamless as possible. company. “It has become a global world, and you have With companies worldwide generating about 43 per- to be in these time zones with 24-hour coverage. s companies become immersed in mergers and ac- cent of revenues outside of their home countries, accord- “We have seen a trend with retailers, especially those Aquisitions, and expand their service base both do- ing to a 2005 Global Relocation Trends survey conducted in the fashion industry, having more and more reloca- mestically and internationally, the number of employees by Weichert Relocation Resources, globalization has in- tions since they are manufacturing overseas and selling transferred out of the country to run these operations creased the demand for skilled employees abroad. more abroad,” he continued. continues to rise. “Retailers need to be present in Europe, the United In recent years major retailers have been vying for Retailers and vendors who transfer employees over- States and Asia in order to participate in the business, prime real estate in the markets of Europe and Asia, seas are faced with a daunting task, and while some globally,” said Peter Matischak, director of sales and looking to translate their success in the States. companies facilitate relocations in-house, others tap marketing at Arpin International Group, a relocation Abercrombie & Fitch, for example, is opening a Lon-

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From purchasing raw materials to financing new lines, it takes money to grow your business. So the last thing you want is a lender that doesn’t deliver. At GMAC Commercial Finance, we’re all about reliability, responsiveness and trust. Flashy we’re not. But we’re fashion industry experts. Given the chance, we’ll get to know your business and deliver a custom-tailored solution to your working capital needs. For more information, please visit us at www.gmaccf.com or contact: Kevin McGarry CSD President at (212) 884-7084 or [email protected] Ron Vanek EVP/CSD West Coast Regional Manager at (213) 284-3693 or [email protected] Bob Higgins EVP/CSD North East Regional Manager (212) 884-7677 or [email protected]

© 2006 GMAC. All Rights Reserved. GMAC Commercial Finance is a registered service mark of GMAC. WWD, MONDAY, MARCH 19, 2007 13 WWD.COM

don fl agship this week and is also aggressively pursuing expertise who provide ease in facilitating a national member of the Employee Relocation Council or hiring a real estate in Tokyo, said Michael Kramer, executive vice assignment, can negotiate cost savings and know what consultant. Membership in the ERC provides companies president and chief fi nancial offi cer, at a Bear Stearns questions to ask, because we do it all the time.” with the resources necessary to make an educated deci- Retail, Restaurant and Consumer conference recently. Outsourcing can also be benefi cial to companies, be- sion about outsourcing. “We see Asia as big territory and in a few years we cause if done properly, it can cut costs and reduce the But most companies are still choosing to keep relocation believe it will play the part Europe does today for com- number of employees the company has to hire to ensure duties in-house. Gap said it has internal resources dedicat- pany growth,” said Carlos Alberini, president and chief the transfer is a success. But while relocation services ed solely to managing employees on international assign- operating offi cer of Guess, at the conference. can ease a move, there are not many companies who can ments, given the complexity of an international move. Guess currently has stores in more than 60 countries and is planning on opening their Shanghai fl agship in April, and fl agships in Beijing, Hong Kong and Macau We see Asia as big territory and in a few years we believe it will in 2008. “ Gap Inc., which has over 3,100 stores in the United play the part Europe does today for company growth. States, United Kingdom, Canada, France, Ireland and ” Japan, is expanding its international franchise agree- — Carlos Alberini, Guess ments for the Gap and Banana Republic brands in Asia and the Middle East. “The assignment types and lengths handle an entire relocation assignment. “They see these ex-pat employees as a valuable tal- are primarily based on the business needs, with an ad- “They can fi nd you an apartment in Hong Kong, but ent and they want to preserve the culture of the compa- ditional focus on talent development,” said Robin Carr, they can’t manage the whole operation from start to fi n- ny. The services out there are not at a level most compa- director of media relations. ish,” Simon said, adding that only about 20 fi rms in the nies feel comfortable outsourcing yet, especially if they Globalization is at the forefront of retail growth, and United States are qualifi ed to do that. have a lot of ex-pats,” Simon said. “But I think they will companies realize they have to get involved in order to To make the best match, Simon suggests becoming a get there over time.” compete. While Urban Outfi tters cur- rently does not have many ex- patriates, within the next three years it is planning on sending more people overseas, particu- larly to the Far East, to shorten the supply chain, said John Kyees, cfo of the company. Wells Fargo Retail Finance “Currently, most of our sourcing goes through agents. Ultimately it would be more ef- fective if people were there in the factory, because it would strengthen communication,” Kyees said. Transferees are being used to oversee production or an interna- We’ve been busy providing our clients with innovative financing solutions. tional start-up program, transfer knowledge and skills to overseas employees, and staff key loca- tions where there may be a talent shortage. Global relocation can This announcement appears as a matter of record only. also be used to breed future C- level executives, by training them on business units overseas. “It is hard to manage your com- pany in the United States if you don’t know what France, Mexico and China does. A business trip is short; living there gives employees a sense of the labor laws and cul- ture,” Matischak said. But relocating employees can be expensive and tedious, cost- ing companies up to three times the base salary of the employee per year. Many companies are not equipped with the resources or One Boston Place, Suite 1800 Boston, MA 02108 man power to complete a trans- (888) 964-9600 fer, and instead are opting to outsource the task to relocation services, tax providers or human Atlanta New York resource organizations. Around the world there are Chicago Dallas Los Angeles San Francisco innumerable service provid- www.wff oothill.com ers that claim they can handle everything from moving an em- ployee to finding schools for their children, said Jim Simon, chief executive offi cer at Simon & Associates, a business consult- ing fi rm. Companies such as NEI Global Reloca tion or Cartus provide full- service domestic and interna- • Revolvers & Term Loans • Management Buyouts • Share Repurchases tional relocation assistance. They aid in the actual move of the em- • Capital Expenditures ployee by fi nding a place to live • Letter of Credit Facilities • Dividends and shipping baggage, as well as expense tracking and planning, assisting an employee’s spouse with job searching, immigration assistance, language training, cul- tural orientation and repatriation services. “In an organization they rare- ly have a team of people who are experts at relocation and under- stand the industry,” said Lisa Johnson, director at Cartus. “It Talk to a lender with retail experience. is hard for human resources to keep policies and practices up- Call or visit us online to learn more to-date when they have other (888) 964-9600 • wfretail.com responsibilities. Relocation companies have people who © 2007 Wells Fargo Retail Finance. All rights reserved. Developing RELATIONSHIPS. Providing SOLUTIONS.® are trained with knowledge and 14 WWD, MONDAY, MARCH 19, 2007

Financing Fashion Real Estate Agents Get Hit With Fees Eastern Europe Emerges By Amy S. Choi Steve Goddard, relocation director. After-the-fact fees are also an issue with real s the relocation industry continues to con- estate agents. As Relocation Destination Asolidate, specialists in the fi eld are vying for This occurs when a relocated employee starts corporate business, lowering costs and, in some working with a real estate agent without know- By Jeanine Poggi cases, even eliminating up-front fees in order to ing his company has a relationship with a relo- compete. cation service provider. The relocation company hile companies have been sending employees overseas To cover expenses, relocation companies are then swoops in to collect fees after a home sale is Wfor decades, the places and the faces have drastically instead charging more to service partners to closed or near closing. This happens more often changed. whom they refer business, especially those in if the real estate agent is not one of the relocation Traditionally, the majority of expatriates were males leav- the real estate industry. company’s “preferred” agents. ing the United States and going to Europe or Asia with their According to industry sources, referral fees Though GMAC kept mum on additional fees families, said Jim Simon, chief executive offi cer at Simon & for agents are increasing to 40 percent of gross for working with non-preferred agents, Sullivan Associates, a business consulting fi rm. home-sale commission, up from the former in- said, “We prefer to work with real estate com- “In the last fi ve years, we have seen many more women dustry standard of 15 to 20 percent. panies and agents who are experienced in the who are executive ex-pats that are going overseas with a male “Relocation fees paid by the corporate client specialized procedures required for a corporate spouse or partner trailing,” he said. are low, and for companies who move large num- relocation home sale transaction. We maintain According to the 11th Annual Global Relocation Trends bers of employees, they can be waived complete- a network of qualifi ed brokers and agents who Survey, issued by GMAC Global Relocations Services and the ly,” said Scott Sullivan, senior vice president at have a proven track record of success.” National Foreign Trade Council, women accounted for 23 per- GMAC Global Relocation Services. “The majority There is additional pressure on relocation fi rms cent of the international assignees in 2005, up 5 percent from of the relocation company’s revenue comes from and real estate agents — the slow housing market. the year prior. referral fees earned from suppliers.” With the current housing slump, a perceived That workforce is also getting younger, with 54 percent of This shift has led to tension between relocation loss in expected gains from selling a home expatriates under the age of 40. companies and the real estate industry, with some makes employees more reluctant to relocate. London, Germany and France traditionally were the primary real estate agents refusing to accept relocation It has also decreased the profi ts for the real es- destinations for transfers, but these European locals are slowly business. tate agency side and the relocation company. But taking the backseat to emerging markets. Other real estate agents, more eager for the slowing housing market does make the servic- “In the last fi ve to 10 years, we have seen an increase in mov- leads, are willing to cough up the fees. es of relocation experts even more critical. ing people from the United States to Singapore, China, India Real estate agents at Remax All-Cities Realty “It creates greater demand for the skills and and Mexico. This comes from call centers located overseas and are willing to pay 20 to 30 percent of their com- services of relocation companies,” Sullivan said. a surge in manufacturing overseas,” said Peter Matischak, di- mission to relocation services for new clients “Companies can minimize the probability of em- rector of sales and marketing at Arpin International Group. and do not see much of a difference in handling ployees’ homes going into inventory or staying on The up-and-coming places to relocate employees are Eastern clients referred by relocation providers, said the market longer than they should.” European countries — Poland, Czechoslovakia and Romania. “The Western European countries are too expensive and plac- es like London and France are outsourcing to these countries. Turkey has also become a huge trend for manufacturing be- cause of lower labor costs,” Matischak said. Moving workers abroad has become increasingly expensive, costing companies up to three times the employees’ salary. These astronomical costs have forced businesses to reexamine global relocation and fi nd creative ways to transfer employees. Historically, relocations were long-term endeavors that last- ed anywhere from three to fi ve years, said Lisa Johnson, direc- tor of Cartus consulting. Now more companies want to move employees for shorter terms and for alternative assignments. Short-term assignments, which can range anywhere from THE ART OF FINANCE three to nine months, are signifi cantly cheaper since the em- ployee may rent temporary housing or stay in a hotel room rath- er than buy a new home. These employees are also allocated a smaller living allowance and granted fewer perks. According to KPMG’s Global Mobility Advisory Services sur- vey for the 2003-2006 period, approximately 75 percent of respon- dents use short-term assignments, which help achieve business growth objectives while keeping assignment costs down. Though major changes are taking place in the global reloca- tion industry, there are still plenty of opportunities for interna- tional assignments. The global trends survey revealed that 47 percent of respon- dents reported an increase in the size of their current expatri- ate population in 2005 compared with 31 percent in 2004, and 54 percent anticipated additional growth in the coming year. Rosenthal & Rosenthal is a privately-held commercial finance company that specializes in factoring and asset-based lending. Since 1938, we’ve provided vital financial services to a growing client base whose diverse activities span the globe. We offer quick credit determinations with no bureaucratic hassle and direct access to the prime decision makers. • Factoring • Letters of credit • Credit protection • Asset-based loans • Inventory financing • Bridge loans • Accounts receivable • Art loans management services When you want expertise, integrity and action call Rosenthal & Rosenthal.

PROVIDING WORKING CAPITAL | COLLECTION FACTORING | TRADE FINANCE Rosenthal & Rosenthal, Inc. www.rosenthalinc.com email: [email protected]

NEW YORK OFFICE: 1370 Broadway, New York, NY 10018 Kenneth Rosenthal Kleiner 212-356-0926 LOS ANGELES OFFICE: The Warner Center, 21700 Oxnard Street, Suite 1880, Woodland Hills, CA 91367 Harry Friedman 818-710-7866 WWD, MONDAY, MARCH 19, 2007 15 WWD.COM

NEW YORK — Chrome Company Offers Fresh Take on Factoring Hearts LLC and OSA International filed a By Liza Casabona competency in sourcing and buying and all of the other lawsuit against Uniopt aspects of the business that can drive their margins. GmbH, which does NEW YORK — Andrew H. Tananbaum, president and business as Robert La Roche Eyewear, for allegedly infring- chief executive officer of Capital Business Credit, has WWD: What trends will the apparel industry face in ing on an eyeglass frame copyright. OSA has the exclusive always focused on forging entrepreneurial relation- 2007? license agreement to produce eyewear under the Chrome ships, whether overseas or here in the U.S. A.H.T.: One obvious trend is that, with the various Hearts trademark. Chrome Hearts alleged that Robert Tananbaum was appointed ceo of Capital by Perry acquisitions of trademarks by brand management La Roche sold eyewear frames that infringed on its fl oral Capital when he and Perry acquired the fi rm from companies, like Iconix, there is a premium placed on cross design at eyewear trade shows. The company asked Region’s Financial Corp. in 2005. He started his pro- product-bearing brands. I also see companies, like Li & the court for fi nancial damages to be determined at trial. fessional career as a lawyer at a big fi rm, but quickly Fung, which are acquiring importers and distribution According to legal papers, Uniopt GmbH and Robert La found a niche in the emerging market fi nance busi- companies to gain greater penetration into the distri- Roche are based in Austria. They could not be reach for ness. He joined Century Factors when it was a family- bution of product and trying to possibly disintermedi- comment. run public company, and then took it private in 1987. ate some of the traditional importers. Shape CD Ltd. filed a patent infringement lawsuit When he sold the company to Wells Fargo, which against Quiksilver Inc. and other unnamed defendants in became Wells Fargo Century in 1999, he said it was WWD: How can a factor help companies face these Manhattan federal court on March 9. Shape CD alleged that the seventh-largest factoring company in the industry trends/challenges? Quiksilver used hangtags on clothing that infringed on its with a deep focus on trade-related importers. A.H.T.: I think the question is different: There was a design for a tag that digitally provides product informa- Capital is the fourth-largest factoring fi rm in the special business relationship between the factor and tion to the consumer. In addition to allegations of patent industry, Tananbaum said. He sat down with WWD to their clients. That relationship between the factor infringement, the complaint also accuses Quiksilver of in- discuss his entrepreneurial take on factoring. and the entrepreneur in the apparel business was one ducement to infringe the patent, for allegedly persuading based on trust, quick decisions and deep knowledge others to infringe on the registered patent. Shape CD asked WWD: What is Capital’s typical customer profi le? about the client’s business, [as well as] the ability to the court for unspecifi ed fi nancial damages. Quiksilver did Andrew H. Tananbaum: My emphasis has historically support them in a way bank-owned fi nance companies not return calls for comment. been on identifying growth opportunities — compa- aren’t prepared to support their clients. It’s not their Roseville Fountains, Peter P. Bollinger Investment Co. nies that are undercapitalized, but have a higher business to be entrepreneurial. Folsom Central and Inter-Cal Real Estate Corp. fi led a law- probability of growth and that require more en- suit against Westfi eld Corp. in the California Supreme Court trepreneurial support as they build out their busi- WWD: How is Capital different? on March 9. According to legal documents the complaint nesses….Most of our clients are importers. We’re A.H.T.: Entrepreneurship. Essentially, we believe we was fi led for alleged breach of a confi dentiality agreement, also seeing that more of our client base is derived are fi lling a need for a return to providing entrepre- misappropriation of trade secrets, unfair competition, un- or arises out of the vendor or supplier side of the neurial capital. That was consistent with what my just enrichment, intentional interference with prospective equation as they move into the United States to sell reputation was at Century. People can call me up and economic advantage, intentional misrepresentation and their products directly to the retailer. That’s why we not be surprised that I’m engaged and hands-on. With breach of covenant of good faith. The plaintiffs alleged that opened a Hong Kong offi ce in 2006. all of our experience in the business, whether in New Westfi eld disclosed confi dential information related to The York, Charlotte [N.C.], Hong Kong or Los Angeles, Fountains Shopping Center, which was to have been a joint WWD: What criteria do you look at when you’re we’ve been there and done that. We are able to fi nd business enterprise between the parties, in Roseville, Calif. evaluating a company to be a potential client? solutions for our clients and create and support op- According to court documents, the breach created issues A.H.T.: I feel very strongly that you need to look at the portunities, while also being thoughtful and consul- for the plaintiffs in developing the property. The complaint experience of the management, how they handled tative. Capital can be proactive, as opposed to being asked for unspecifi ed fi nancial damages. Westfi eld declined themselves in their business, how hands-on they are reactive, and hopefully catch opportunities and bring to comment. about their business. Because we fi nance a lot of im- prospective issues to the attention of clients earlier — L.C. porters, it’s really important for us to know about their rather than later.

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New York | New Jersey | Connecticut 16 WWD, MONDAY, MARCH 19, 2007

Financing Fashion Firms Expand ‘Powerhouse’ Stables Stock Merger Creates By WWD Staff International. Industry sources said the lion’s share of Collective’s revenue stream was in sales of Airwalk. Bruce he old mantra in the footwear and apparel sectors was Pettet, ceo and president of Collective International, will Baby Business Boom Tto “control the destiny of your brand.” remain. But a handful of companies over the past few years is Harrison and Bill Susman, president and chief operat- abyUniverse Inc. and eToys Direct Inc. inked now taking this strategy to a new level by becoming “pow- ing offi cer of Financo, said the deal was in the works for Ban all-stock merger agreement last week that erhouse” brand management firms. These innovative some time, and works well for Payless because of the value results in a combined company aimed at offer- companies include Iconix Brand Group Inc. and NexCen of Airwalk brand’s growth potential. ing youth-related products, Web content, e-com- Brands Inc. as well as Payless ShoeSource with its re- “[Rubel] and the Payless team felt very excited about part- merce, new media and direct marketing. cent acquisition of Collective International LP, owner of nering with Bruce [Pettet] and had a lot of confi dence in him,” BabyUniverse stockholders will get one-third of Airwalk and Vision Street Wear. Susman said. “In a market where a lot of brands are getting company shares while eToys will get two-thirds, ac- Iconix and NexCen own a stable of brands that are li- sold for very high prices, the [Airwalk] brand was acquired cording to a statement by the companies last week. censed to retailers and vendors. In the case of Payless, the for an attractive price, relative to other deals out there.” The deal was approved by the boards of both company sells Airwalk in its retail stores and is expected Financial sources expect Payless to be on the prowl for fi rms. John Textor, chairman and chief executive to extend and license the brand. other brands to acquire. And despite high valuations in the offi cer of BabyUniverse, will remain chairman of Gilbert Harrison, chairman of Financo, which advised market, Iconix and NexCen will likely continue the hunt the combined company, while Michael Wagner, ceo Payless on the Collective International deal, said by owning for more brands to add to its stables. of eToys, will serve as ceo of the new company. the Airwalk brand, Payless can invest in the brand “while at In November of 2006, Neil Cole, chairman and ceo of Banc of America Securities LLC served as fi - the same time developing products and further brand exten- Iconix, told Wall Street that the company intends to grow nancial adviser to BabyUniverse while Financo sions, which will give the company an edge in the market.” earnings per share between 15 and 20 percent year-over- Securities LLC, a wholly owned subsidiary of Harrison said Payless chairman and chief executive of- year via brand acquisitions and its brand management Financo Inc., served as fi nancial adviser to eToys. fi cer Matt Rubel “has brought a new dynamic approach to business model. In the past year Iconix has acquired six Wagner said in a statement that the merger with Payless, which includes looking at the business as a ‘house brands, most recently Rocawear and Danskin. BabyUniverse “represents a logical next step for our of brands.’” Meanwhile, the company keeps on inking new licens- business as we endeavor to capitalize on a technol- Harrison said the approach is innovative, and Payless ing deals. In February, Iconix lined up six new licenses ogy and fulfi llment platform that is among the most should now be looked at as two businesses: “Payless the for Op, Joe Boxer, London Fog and Badgley Mischka. The sophisticated and scalable within the e-commerce shoe store, which is the largest in the world in terms of retail agreements include accessories and apparel in men’s and industry. With more than 600,000 square feet of high- stores, and Payless the New York Stock Exchange company women’s wear. ly effi cient distribution facilities, and a strong sea- that owns additional brands to develop and grow.” For NexCen, the past seven months involved two major sonal bias, we are eager to realize the synergies that Rubel has been hard at work creating a brand house acquisitions: The Athlete’s Foot and Bill Blass. we believe are likely to come with the assumption of that includes offering licensed footwear brands such as NexCen president and ceo Robert D’Loren has created the seasonally balanced business of BabyUniverse.” Spalding, Champion, Dunkman and Tailwind, among oth- a business model that centers on three business vehicles: Sales volume at eToys is about $117 million an- ers. When the deal was announced earlier this month, retail franchising, consumer branded products and quick- nually. Rubel likened the Payless brand strategy to that of Iconix, service restaurant franchising. D’Loren’s focus is on build- Gilbert Harrison, chairman of Financo, said which owns a variety of brands such as Badgley Mischka, ing a brand house that markets and licenses brands while his fi rm had worked with eToys management to London Fog and Joe Boxer. leveraging costs across the three business vehicles. “fi nd the right fi t” in a merger partner. “The com- “Brands are everything,” Harrison said. “And [Rubel] Allan Ellinger, senior managing partner of MMG, which bination is absolutely natural,” he said. “We be- knows brands very well. And he knows that brands have the represented Blass in the deal last December, said the lieve it is a home run because the deal gives both most value if you capture them for use in your own business brand “is an iconic American designer brand” and the companies needed scale, which will result in and license the brands to other companies as well.” transaction will position NexCen as a premier brand man- greater profi tability of the combined company.” Payless doled out $91 million for Collective agement fi rm.

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At Milberg Factors, our clients deal directly with the owners of our firm. So if you want an entrepreneurial financial partner who can respond quickly to your changing needs, someone who will work as hard as you do to ensure your success, call Milberg Factors. The doorway to creative financing solutions is always open. It’s the one with our name on it.

Milberg Factors, Inc. A Tradition of Creative Finance

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Call Dan Milberg, SVP, NY 212.697.4200 Dave Reza, SVP, LA 818.649.8662 Marty Schnurr, VP, Atlanta 770.971.6003

©2007 Milberg Factors, Inc. WWD, MONDAY, MARCH 19, 2007 17 WWD.COM Foot Locker Said Readying Bid for Genesco

oot Locker Inc., eyeing Genesco Inc., for control of the footwear and accessories sources to have submitted a bid in the $28 under Genesco’s Lids hatwear business include Fis prepared to go hostile, said fi nancial fi rm. Should Genesco turn the bid down, per-share range. The sources said talks ended Head Quarters, Cap Connection and Hatworld. sources close to both fi rms. sources familiar with Foot Locker’s plans said because Foot Locker was set on its asking In addition, Foot Locker executives told Manhattan-based Foot Locker is said the footwear and apparel retailer might be price of $30 per share. attendees at the Banc of America Securities to be preparing a tender offer for shares prepared to go as high as $48 per share. At the same time, the retailer was on the Conference in New York last week that it is of Nashville-based Genesco in the $44 to Evercore Partners, which was hired by Foot prowl for acquisitions. Sources said in June looking for an acquisition that would help it $46 per-share range. The bid is expected to Locker in August to advise on a range of matters that Brown Shoe turned down a $700 million expand into the women’s footwear business. be announced soon, perhaps as early as this including strategic options, is not involved in offer from Foot Locker for its Famous Footwear Coincidentally, Genesco is the largest juniors week, the sources said. the Genesco bid. Financial sources close to the business. Since then, Foot Locker unveiled in and young men’s footwear retailer, and has Genesco’s market capitalization is about banking community said that this time, Foot November a new concept called Footquarters. the hottest women’s concept, “Shi,” which is $858 million, and it had 26.7 million diluted Locker has hired Lehman Bros. as its fi nancial The attraction of the 2,009-unit Genesco considered by some analysts to be a growth shares outstanding for the fourth quarter ended adviser. A spokeswoman for Lehman Bros. did is said to be its hat business, a sector that opportunity that could be a 500-unit chain. Feb. 3. An initial offer could be valued at $1.17 not return a call for comment by press time. executives at Foot Locker told Wall Street A deal by Foot Locker is not assured. billion, depending on the exact per-share price. Foot Locker declined to comment and analysts during a conference call this month has Genesco currently trades at a low multiple and Financial sources also said Foot Locker has Genesco could not be reached for comment. been diffi cult to enter because of the diffi culty is a good leveraged buyout candidate, said one made some preliminary, exploratory contact Foot Locker considered a sale of itself in fi nding the right store locations. Genesco investment banker. That means that an offer with Genesco. They also said they expect last year, and received some expressions of in January closed on its 49-unit purchase of by Foot Locker could be the start of a bidding Genesco to rebuff the tender offer, setting interest. Apollo Management, through its West Hat Shack Inc. for $16.6 million, bringing its war involving private equity players. the stage for an old-fashioned heated fi ght Coast team led by Peter Copses, is said by headwear store count to 785 units. Nameplates — Vicki M. Young Weekly Stocks Fast Stats 52-WEEK VOLUME AMT 52-WEEK VOLUME AMT HIGH LOW RETAILERS P/E (000’S) LAST CHANGE HIGH LOW RETAILERS P/E (000’S) LAST CHANGE 83.82 49.98 Abercrombie & Fitch (ANF) 15.3 79792 73.62 -1.54 36.10 27.30 Jones Apparel (JNY) - 58535 31.95 -0.04 Year of the fi rst bank 28.14 19.51 Acadia (AKR) 55.1 12687 26.71 -0.39 48.12 22.14 Jos. A. Bank (JOSB) 15.2 18066 32.38 0.90 39.35 21.07 Aéropostale (ARO) 19.4 77861 38.70 0.58 34.84 24.46 Kellwood (KWD) 35.2 24941 31.24 0.36 heist in U.S. history: 23.72 17.01 Alberto Culver (ACV) 10.0 35171 22.51 0.16 28.72 21.75 Kenneth Cole (KCP) 18.9 6678 26.15 0.75 3.35 1.88 Alpha Pro Tech (APT) 20.9 10584 3.13 0.10 70.28 56.96 Kimberly Clark (KMB) 20.5 110812 66.72 -0.54 1831 34.80 18.39 American Eagle (AEOS) 17.2 129959 29.89 -0.37 53.60 34.20 Kimco Realty (KIM) 35.1 75302 48.49 -1.06 45.15 32.25 Ann Taylor (ANN) 17.2 136648 38.60 2.11 75.54 50.53 Kohls (KSS) 21.8 155149 71.96 -0.86 10.45 6.17 Ashworth (ASHW) - 2895 7.58 0.57 37.81 22.54 K-Swiss (KSWS) 12.6 18411 28.00 -0.20 Amount stolen from the 40.13 26.16 Avon (AVP) 35.0 107711 37.56 0.10 15.64 11.20 LaCrosse Footwear (BOOT) 14.3 173 15.23 0.22 21.99 8.63 Bakers (BKRS) 34.6 1866 9.95 -1.95 18.86 11.37 Lakeland Inds (LAKE) 14.2 262 14.15 0.06 heist: $245,000 26.86 14.07 Bebe (BEBE) 19.6 61997 17.05 -0.85 32.60 23.54 Limited Brands (LTD) 15.3 298769 25.70 -0.38 40.00 27.10 Benetton (BNG) 44.5 434 33.36 1.47 24.23 8.66 Liquidity Services (LQDT) 53.9 29226 17.78 -1.36 16.50 10.01 Big Dog (BDOG) 84.9 395 15.14 -0.36 46.84 33.62 Liz Claiborne (LIZ) 17.1 51786 42.82 0.15 9.60 6.05 Birks & Mayors (BMJ) 15.5 477 8.26 -0.11 12.64 2.69 LJ Intl. (JADE) 39.4 48523 9.02 -1.44 Percentage of 34.04 25.18 BJs (BJ) 22.7 46661 32.59 0.39 32.88 24.17 Luxottica (LUX) 25.7 7605 30.71 -0.27 46.44 23.73 Blair (BL) 689.3 1049 41.35 -0.48 103.59 67.11 Macerich (MAC) 141.0 90466 90.67 -2.47 leveraged buyouts in 6.80 1.48 Blue (BLUE) 13.0 4042 1.55 -0.37 22.84 10.30 Maidenform (MFB) 17.9 16523 21.28 1.31 1.60 0.68 Bluefly (BFLY) - 3364 1.01 -0.06 48.32 29.81 Men’s Wearhouse (MW) 16.9 38097 47.02 -0.83 2006 M&A deals: 31% 57.40 20.22 Bon-Ton (BONT) 19.3 21792 55.15 1.19 26.31 16.40 Marcus (MCS) 22.4 6439 21.57 0.38 56.52 30.14 Brown Shoe (BWS) 19.6 34509 45.48 -5.49 57.65 20.12 Mothers Work (MWRK) 16.9 2913 31.63 -0.93 37.37 22.25 Buckle (BKE) 17.6 9240 34.66 0.39 30.50 17.91 Movado (MOV) 19.5 6457 28.93 -0.25 Percentage of 26.32 15.00 Caché (CACH) 33.1 26030 17.86 -2.41 3.50 0.67 Movie Star (MSI) - 4162 2.80 -0.33 35.24 20.53 Carter (CRI) 16.5 49086 24.68 1.10 25.95 18.81 National Retail Prop. (NNN) 20.6 38045 24.30 0.62 transportation and 15.10 9.00 Casual Male (CMRG) 23.9 18589 11.80 -0.17 33.88 22.80 New Plan Excel (NXL) 37.8 130972 33.21 -0.09 26.70 20.30 Cato (CTR) 13.5 10661 21.73 0.05 17.55 9.41 New York & Co. (NWY) 19.1 11497 14.79 -0.35 related jobs in total 50.36 35.80 CBL (CBL) 38.3 25825 45.58 0.31 108.90 75.52 Nike (NKE) 19.8 80635 107.47 1.62 12.74 9.15 CCA (CAW) 14.8 660 11.84 0.14 9.38 3.63 Nitches (NICH) 21.2 1360 5.04 -0.07 U.S. labor force: 13.84 6.50 Charles & Colvard (CTHR) 19.7 2411 6.65 -0.15 59.70 31.77 Nordstrom (JWN) 19.7 178266 50.96 -0.61 33.93 17.95 Charlotte Russe (CHIC) 15.3 29414 27.27 -1.70 23.80 14.60 Oakley (OO) 31.0 11714 19.90 -0.57 15.6% 15.57 9.69 Charming Shoppes (CHRS) 14.1 58928 11.97 -0.16 6.40 3.25 Orange 21 (ORNG) - 389 5.39 -0.07 58.75 27.99 Chattem (CHTT) 21.9 16000 51.12 -2.06 11.55 7.36 Orchids Paper (TIS) 62.8 130 7.46 -0.43 47.20 33.65 Cherokee (CHKE) 20.0 1978 42.32 -0.02 53.98 34.34 Oxford (OXM) 15.6 6597 46.67 0.24 42.75 17.26 Chico’s (CHS) 23.4 142192 22.13 -0.34 25.26 13.12 Pacific Sunwear (PSUN) 32.5 153905 19.66 1.61 Leading state of origin 71.81 50.77 Children’s Place (PLCE) 21.1 33351 54.75 -2.20 16.71 4.43 Parlux Fragrances (PARL) 20.4 12551 5.80 0.01 for continental U.S. 31.25 16.88 Christopher & Banks (CBK) 17.0 28651 17.85 -0.12 23.53 17.00 Paxar (PXR) 16.6 11869 23.00 -0.16 44.30 34.57 Cintas (CTAS) 19.2 59121 39.67 -0.35 35.36 20.36 Payless Shoes (PSS) 17.5 64494 33.15 -1.35 freight shipments: 57.85 26.78 Citi Trends (CTRN) 30.0 7054 43.88 1.58 32.46 13.70 Perry Ellis (PERY) 22.0 3832 30.22 -0.67 37.49 23.88 Claire’s Stores (CLE) 17.7 109052 30.64 -1.66 58.63 32.21 Phillips-Van Heusen (PVH) 20.9 26754 56.73 1.06 California 51.03 25.18 Coach (COH) 31.5 181791 48.77 -0.55 6.09 3.00 Phoenix Footwear (PXG) 13.1 528 4.80 -0.41 31.26 16.77 Coldwater Creek (CWTR) 29.6 109889 17.60 -0.79 15.04 9.30 Playtex (PYX) 28.2 16825 13.48 -0.27 69.00 56.00 Colgate Palmolive (CL) 25.4 113183 65.10 -1.53 89.07 45.65 Polo Ralph Lauren (RL) 22.6 33280 83.82 -1.29 66.78 42.85 Columbia Sprtswr (COLM) 18.4 10583 61.31 -1.82 20.64 7.55 PriceSmart (PSMT) 38.5 2929 14.48 -1.44 SOURCE: HISTORY.COM, BUREAU OF 37.26 17.61 Conns (CONN) 13.6 9663 22.89 -1.09 2.46 0.92 Quaker Fabric (QFAB) - 1175 1.16 0.02 TRANSPORTATION STATISTICS, CITIGROUP 58.70 46.00 Costco (COST) 22.7 292776 52.98 -1.36 16.08 10.90 Quiksilver (ZQK) 18.1 199306 11.55 -0.16 9.50 7.13 Cost U Less (CULS) 13.6 338 9.16 -0.26 9.97 5.52 R.G. Barry (DFZ) 18.7 1244 9.35 0.09 58.57 20.32 Crocs (CROX) 26.5 84215 46.17 0.62 39.55 25.81 Ramco-Gershenson (RPT) 21.2 10198 34.63 -0.09 7.35 4.24 Culp (CFI) - 605 7.22 -0.11 93.49 59.04 Regency Centers (REG) 41.9 19459 81.77 -1.82 14.00 9.02 Cutter & Buck (CBUK) 15.3 1229 11.10 0.04 21.47 13.34 Retail Ventures (RVI) - 21214 20.35 0.15 WWD Index 5.00 1.78 Cygne Designs (CYDS) - 372 2.02 -0.21 3.61 0.76 Revlon (REV) - 150841 1.09 -0.06 31.63 21.34 Deb Shops (DEBS) 18.4 1224 27.05 -0.86 26.70 9.73 Rocky Brands (RCKY) 12.3 3236 10.89 -0.14 70.74 33.36 Deckers Outdoor (DECK) 20.8 16245 69.91 0.70 35.00 22.12 Ross Stores (ROST) 20.4 59426 31.62 -0.85 12.00 6.61 Delia’s (DLIA) 52.3 7565 9.14 -0.23 21.45 14.10 Saks (SKS) - 92478 19.27 -0.49 20.50 14.91 Delta Apparel (DLA) 13.0 334 17.13 -0.29 189.97 129.36 Sears (SHLD) 19.4 115599 173.56 -6.90 Composite 10.58 6.51 Delta Galil (DELT) 38.8 237 6.85 -0.30 33.36 19.25 Shoe Carnival (SCVL) 18.4 6082 32.30 1.84 1021.88 72.33 48.49 Developers Diversified (DDR) 37.4 64085 62.51 -1.37 9.22 5.19 Shoe Pavilion (SHOE) 29.0 794 5.91 -0.39 36.47 24.77 Dillard’s (DDS) 10.4 96363 32.28 -0.77 123.96 76.14 Simon Properties (SPG) 50.5 85329 109.49 -1.44 21.40 12.10 Dollar General (DG) 28.5 1280123 21.10 4.32 38.03 19.70 Skechers (SKX) 19.5 19375 34.20 0.61 28.09 16.91 Dress Barn (DBRN) 13.9 52883 19.89 -0.13 6.16 3.68 Sport-Haley (SPOR) - 63 4.20 -0.04 43.46 26.71 DSW (DSW) 30.8 17366 40.86 1.35 18.14 11.27 Stein Mart (SMRT) 15.6 12972 13.69 0.03 42.06 22.34 Duckwall-Alco (DUCK) 25.9 209 41.24 0.99 4.45 2.83 Stephan (TSC) 41.7 808 3.72 -0.14 15.00 6.50 Eddie Bauer (EBHI) - 25523 8.90 0.28 44.70 22.67 Steve Madden (SHOO) 13.6 15790 29.82 0.43 24.00 13.63 Elizabeth Arden (RDEN) 25.8 9040 21.79 0.07 18.00 11.90 Stride Rite (SRR) 17.9 12064 17.23 0.45 -16.57 49.43 34.81 Estée Lauder (EL) 26.5 104285 47.84 0.22 13.54 10.90 Superior Uniform (SGC) 39.8 501 12.80 -0.25 21.82 11.05 Everlast Worldwide (EVST) 14.6 220 17.98 -0.51 21.24 14.20 Syms (SYM) 29.4 887 17.22 -1.04 33.31 21.57 Family Dollar (FDO) 21.8 137186 28.94 0.16 2.15 0.38 Tag-It (TAG) - 10909 1.97 0.00 45.45 32.57 Federated (FD) 24.2 419420 44.36 -0.13 31.00 17.30 Talbots (TLB) 41.3 47088 24.71 -0.20 17.76 9.55 Finish Line (FINL) 14.5 18660 11.86 -0.22 13.70 9.27 Tandy Brands (TBAC) - 97 13.03 -0.32 26.16 24.58 Forest City (FCY) 31.8 81 25.45 0.15 8.32 5.75 Tandy Leather Factory (TLF) 16.5 530 7.16 -0.07 28.94 15.89 Fossil (FOSL) 27.6 24957 25.70 -1.30 43.56 29.67 Tanger Factory Outlet (SKT) 59.7 27755 38.89 -1.12 Weekly % Changes 15.32 11.30 Freds (FRED) 21.5 20757 14.72 0.23 64.74 44.70 Target (TGT) 18.5 347869 59.77 -2.11 42.95 31.12 G&K (GKSR) 19.1 5700 35.68 -1.34 2.20 1.05 Tarrant Apparel (TAGS) - 1106 1.63 -0.10 (ending March 16) 19.98 9.80 Gaiam (GAIA) 58.9 16161 13.49 0.85 63.87 36.69 Taubman (TCO) 142.2 22377 57.36 -1.24 21.39 15.91 Gap (GPS) 18.7 396717 17.50 -0.34 13.73 8.91 Tefron (TFR) 15.9 1169 9.40 -0.10 Gainers Close Change 66.85 41.92 General Growth (GGP) 259.4 97568 64.30 0.62 45.98 29.63 Tiffany & Co. (TIF) 24.0 70435 42.71 -0.99 43.72 25.50 Genesco (GCO) 12.8 24966 39.60 2.94 35.49 24.80 Timberland (TBL) 15.7 26016 26.48 -0.01 Dollar General 21.10 25.74 26.74 7.91 G-III Apparel (GIII) 26.8 9152 19.60 -0.40 30.24 22.16 TJ Maxx (TJX) 16.0 203221 26.10 -0.95 56.17 38.24 Gildan Activewear (GIL) 31.4 7327 55.25 0.65 23.88 14.65 True Religion (TRLG) 15.4 19564 15.51 -1.87 Pacific Sunwear 19.66 8.92 29.69 23.08 Glimcher (GRT) - 15485 27.08 -0.35 44.53 31.05 Tween Brands (TWB) 18.1 33861 36.00 1.17 11.89 6.29 Gottschalks (GOT) 43.9 886 11.41 0.30 54.00 29.80 Under Armour (UA) 56.7 33251 46.83 0.32 Ashworth 7.58 8.13 43.37 18.26 Guess (GES) 29.5 54316 39.50 -2.93 3.76 1.69 Unifi (UFI) - 2737 2.70 -0.09 Genesco 39.60 8.02 49.11 25.00 Gymboree (GYMB) 17.2 73372 38.60 2.30 45.01 28.65 Unifirst (UNF) 16.7 3638 39.15 -1.64 146.00 77.30 Hallwood (HWG) 5.4 14 98.75 2.25 20.78 12.00 United Retail (URGI) 5.5 3519 12.16 -0.63 Gaiam 13.49 6.72 23.26 11.76 Hampshire (HAMP) 10.8 233 16.00 0.25 27.16 13.65 Urban Outfitters (URBN) 34.2 190457 24.04 -1.59 28.75 17.75 Hanesbrands (HBI) - 31358 27.01 -1.34 83.29 55.22 VF Corp. (VFC) 16.8 45344 80.76 -0.10 9.97 5.50 Hartmarx (HMX) 33.9 4997 6.78 -0.08 38.65 18.24 Volcom (VLCM) 28.7 15151 34.30 0.30 Decliners Close Change 25.50 16.18 Helen of Troy (HELE) 13.7 6550 21.99 -0.30 52.15 42.31 Wal-Mart (WMT) 15.8 960481 46.21 -1.21 15.64 9.43 Hot Topic (HOTT) 33.7 58988 10.73 -0.31 28.47 15.75 Warnaco (WRNC) 17.3 29509 27.65 0.75 Blue 1.55 -19.27 4.79 0.95 House of Taylor (HOTJ) - 2492 3.43 -0.33 13.95 10.50 Wellco (WLC) 32.0 17 13.81 0.05 40.99 23.54 IAC Interactive (IACI) 64.3 151689 36.59 -0.84 52.30 36.77 Weingarten (WRI) 29.3 34684 46.98 -0.53 Bakers 9.95 -16.39 23.13 12.23 Iconix (ICON) 24.9 48853 19.92 0.59 27.08 18.76 Weyco (WEYS) 14.1 968 25.59 -0.26 1.45 0.37 Innovo (INNO) - 2587 1.00 -0.08 4.13 1.65 Wilsons (WLSN) - 2739 1.76 -0.16 LJ Intl. 9.02 -13.77 21.77 15.39 Inter Parfums (IPAR) 23.0 4677 19.73 -0.17 31.08 20.26 Wolverine (WWW) 18.9 17933 28.28 0.24 43.56 24.00 J. Crew (JCG) 34.1 72527 38.48 2.00 31.72 21.01 Zale (ZLC) 23.7 28710 25.21 -0.67 Caché 17.86 -11.89 87.18 57.43 J.C. Penney (JCP) 16.3 124792 79.47 -0.84 40.25 20.00 Zumiez (ZUMZ) 52.1 49342 39.24 2.29 Brown Shoe 45.48 -10.77 14.25 7.15 Jaclyn (JLN) 12.2 1018 12.92 0.37 18 WWD, MONDAY, MARCH 19, 2007 WWD.COM Browne Teams With Brooks Brothers for Black Fleece Continued from page one and, consistently, a fresh quality to his looks. Tuesday when the retailer unveils its first designer “If you look at the European fashion collections, you collection, created by Thom Browne and called Black see a lot of Thom Browne inspiration,” Del Vecchio said. Fleece. “In the designer business on the men’s side, he’s very, Black Fleece will consist of about 50 looks; half very well known. He prepared himself very well for this men’s, half women’s. Initially, the collection will be project. He studied our archives, our catalogues and sold in about 30 Brooks Brothers stores in the U.S. brochures. He grew up in a Brooks Brothers family. His starting in September, and several overseas. Trunk father dressed in Brooks Brothers; his mother dressed shows will be staged in many more locations and will her kids in Brooks Brothers. He grew up with that sen- have special items. sibility and he’s never hidden the fact that he has been Brooks Brothers expects Black Fleece to crack $10 infl uenced by Brooks Brothers. That’s a very important million in sales its fi rst season, though the projection reason for us to be confi dent. He’s got the same love of could change, considering decisions on pricing and details, fabric and construction.” how the collection is presented in the stores have Within Black Fleece, “you will see the infl uenc- yet to be made. The label won’t bear Thom Browne’s es of Thom Brown and Brooks Brothers,” said Louis name, though in-store signage or hangtags might, to ex- Amendola, the retailer’s executive vice president of plain the collection was designed by him. The Black merchandising. “There will be a great balance of the Fleece moniker for the collection was adapted from two.” the Golden Fleece, which is the Brooks Brothers logo, Brooks Brothers hopes Black Fleece has a halo ef- and a label on men’s dress suits and ties, and women’s fect on its women’s business, which Del Vecchio said blouses in the store. has been the fastest-growing category for the last three This is the fi rst time Brooks Brothers has brought years and has evolved into “a full lifestyle brand.” in what executives call a “guest designer” to create Women’s has grown to represent in excess of $150 an exclusive collection, and they say, if it’s a winner, million of the $800 million total Brooks Brothers busi- other guest designers could be included in what Brooks ness. That’s roughly 20 percent of the volume, up from Brothers considers “a design laboratory platform.” 12 percent fi ve years ago. Women’s occupies about 20 It’s also the fi rst time that Browne, an infl uential percent of the selling space, and is very productive, ac- men’s wear designer cording to Del Vecchio, who noted that, at the Brooks Thom Browne who won the CFDA Brothers fl agship on Madison Avenue and 44th Street, and Claudio Menswear Designer the 6,000-square-foot fi fth fl oor, which is devoted to Del Vecchio of the Year Award last women’s, generates $7 million in annual sales. He called year, has attempted it “a destination area.” a full women’s col- At Brooks Brothers on Fifth Avenue and 53rd Street, lection, though he’s the 2,500-square-foot women’s area also generates $7 designed for a few million, though it’s on the main fl oor and far more vis- private customers ible. All new Brooks Brothers stores merchandise wom- at his shop in the en’s on the main fl oor. Meatpacking District. “In three years, we hope to double the business,” Del His men’s line sells at Vecchio said. “Thom Browne is probably going to speed a small group of high- up the process. At fi rst, we thought we would just get end specialty stores, our feet wet with Black Fleece, but we liked what was including Bergdorf happening and took a more aggressive approach.” Goodman. Brooks Brothers also wants to operate additional “This is an added women’s-only stores. There’s just a handful so far, dimension to our in Westport, Conn.; St. Louis; Hackensack, N.J., and business,” said Houston. Another will open in Tucson, Ariz., this sum- Claudio Del Vecchio, mer. “It is one of the growth initiatives over the next chairman and chief three years,” Amendola observed. executive officer of Over the last few years, prices and quality steadily Brooks Brothers. “It’s have risen at Brooks Brothers. The core men’s suits PHOTO BY GEORGE CHINSEE PHOTO BY priced in line with business retails in the $900 range, though suits go as what people are used A sketch from Black Fleece. high $2,000, with a made-to-measure up to $6,000. A few to spending on designers,” with sweaters at $800 and years ago, the core suit business fell between $398 to up, and women’s and men’s suits from $3,000 to $4,000. from shoes and handbags through daywear to evenin- $598. There also will be eveningwear pieces retailing for gwear.” Handbags start at $398, and the core is $598 and $698, more than $5,000. Del Vecchio has been steadily repositioning Brooks whereas in years past, handbags averaged $98 to $148. Citing a higher quality of fabrics, details and work- Brothers into the bridge-to-designer price zone since Blouses range from $79.50 to $228, up from $59.50 to manship, Del Vecchio said: “From a manufacturing the company he owns, Retail Brand Alliance, purchased $118. Knitwear ranges from $100 to $498, up from $59.50 point of view, it’s really couture. It’s a dimension that, if the retailer from Marks & Spencer in 2001, when the to $150. you really think about it, refl ects where Brooks Brothers brand’s women’s wear was more apt to be compared The highest-priced item in the store currently is a was when it started in 1818. But we are not transforming with Ann Taylor. soft alligator handbag for $8,000. “There’s absolutely no Brooks Brothers into a couture business.” Del Vecchio said Browne has a contract for four sea- price resistance as long as the quality and value associ- “The collection is very classically inspired in re- sons, and beyond that, he sees “a very long-term com- ated with the product and she defi nitely wants the right gards to fabrics, even with the proportions and the use mitment to Black Fleece as a label,” whether Browne look,” Amendola said. of navy and gray together, but I made sure it wasn’t al- stays on longer or another designer steps in. The message is similar to what J. Crew ceo Millard ways too classic, in regards to its personality,” Browne The Browne-Brooks Brothers link is like establish- “Mickey” Drexler said last week: “There is a trade up said of the Black Fleece line overall. “I wanted to ment meets antiestablishment, with Brooks Brothers to quality in America that has been going for awhile, make sure it had a reason for being, and that it feels synonymous with preppy, American classics — button- whether it’s cars or homes, you name it. We feel very younger. It’s very much a Brooks Brothers feel, with down shirts, seersuckers and Shetlands — and Browne good about moving into a marketplace that trades to a a younger sensibility and some iconic American looks sometimes identifi ed with geek-chic with narrow suits very affl uent audience.” presented in different ways. It’s a full collection, really and tight fi ts, though there also is a vintage character Brooks Brothers does, too. Retail Apparel Prices See Uptick in February By Evan Clark Forecasting Center at Georgia State University, attrib- to spur economic growth, though economists said that uted part of the monthly price increase to the weak- seems less likely now with the threat of infl ation. For WASHINGTON — Retail prices on women’s apparel in- ness of the U.S. dollar, which has generally made im- some, the declining housing market is a bigger threat creased a seasonally adjusted 0.8 percent last month ports more expensive. to consumer spending. compared with January and were up 5.2 percent from The steeper women’s apparel prices are feeding “Down the road, we are worried that when hom- a year earlier. into larger economic trends that might ultimately eowners cannot borrow easily or they cannot get a fa- Dress prices slid 1.5 percent in February, but pric- make consumers less likely to spend. vorable rate or the banks become tighter on the home es were up 10.3 percent against a year ago in the hot- Increases in the fuel, food and medical areas helped equity loan…that’s when the trouble comes in on the selling category, according to the Labor Department push up prices on all goods and services a greater- consumer spending, which effects the apparel indus- Consumer Price Index released Friday. Suit and sepa- than-anticipated 0.4 percent, after a 0.2 percent boost try,” Dhawan said. rate prices inched up 2.5 percent for the month and in January, making it less likely the Federal Reserve The stock market plunged last week after the were ahead 8.9 percent versus a year ago. Board will cut interest rates soon, economists said. Mortgage Bankers Association released a report show- Women’s apparel prices are still down 2.2 percent So-called core prices, which exclude the vola- ing more homeowners are having trouble making their compared with fi ve years ago, held down by low-cost tile food and energy sectors, advanced 0.2 percent in payments. imports and stiff competition among stores, which February, after a 0.3 percent rise the preceding month. “Those poor people with the adjustable rate mortgages have grown larger though consolidation. Some investors were hoping that the Fed, led by are the ones who are really getting squeezed right now,” Rajeev Dhawan, director of the Economic chairman Ben Bernanke, would lower interest rates said David Wyss, Standard & Poor’s chief economist. WWD, MONDAY, MARCH 19, 2007 19 WWD.COM Clarins and L’Occitane Eye Acquisitions PARIS — Groupe Clarins is looking to make acquisitions, Courtin, who added the fi rm has not yet made any offers. sales turnover — in 2007 over 2006. both on its own and through a venture with L’Occitane, Clarins has decided to tackle e-commerce on its own Clarins stock closed up 1.09 percent to 56.81 euros, or Clarins executives said at the company’s annual results after having launched gloss.com, a portal owned with $75.13, on the Paris Bourse Friday. presentation for financial analysts on Friday. Chanel and the Estée Lauder Cos., in 1999. Together, — Ellen Groves As reported, Clarins — which has held a stake in the companies decided to shut down the portal. Clarins L’Occitane since 2001 — this February increased its will launch its own e-commerce site at the end of April, shareholding in the natural beauty manufacturer and fi rst in France and then in the U.S. and U.K. Courtin said retailer to 23 percent from 10 percent. Clarins plans to e-tail sites such as sephora.com have shown Clarins’ Shareholders OK CVS, Caremark Deal sell part of its stake to a newly cre- Internet sales potential. NEW YORK — Shareholders of CVS Corp. and pharmacy ated L’Occitane holding company “It also allows us to get to know benefits manager Caremark Rx Inc. have voted in favor for a cash payment of 132.2 million our customers better,” he added. of the firms’ proposed merger, a deal worth roughly $24 euros, or $174.8 million at current On the product front this year, billion that CVS expects to close this week. exchange. Under terms of the pend- BEAUTY BEAT Clarins is in the process of re- CVS shareholders approved the merger on Thursday ing deal, Clarins would retain 10.05 launching its makeup line with new and Caremark shareholders gave the deal the thumbs percent of the holding company, which is worth around packaging and textures, to attract a younger clientele. up on Friday. 800 million euros, or about $1 billion, and whose other The company is also investing almost 16 million euros, or The merger calls for Caremark shareholders to receive shareholders will include L’Occitane’s management. $21 million, in new merchandising units for makeup. 1.67 shares of CVS stock for each share of Caremark stock, In another agreement, Clarins and L’Occitane have Upcoming launches from Clarins’ star Thierry Mugler an offer that has remained unchanged despite a hostile created a joint venture company through which they plan and Azzaro fragrance brands include Thierry Mugler Eau takeover bid by Express Scripts Rx, another pharmacy to make acquisitions and further investigate alternative de Star and Ice Men, plus a masterbrand, called Now, from benefi ts manager. Express Scripts made a cash-and-stock distribution channels to selective retailing. Clarins sec- Azzaro. In 2008, Clarins will bring out its fi rst scents under offer in mid-December that was worth about $25 billion. retary general Pierre Milet said the joint venture is to be license with Porsche Design and with David Yurman. CVS, however, then sweetened its offer for Caremark, split evenly between the fi rms and will have around 500 “Competition has increased dramatically,” said Courtin, offering a special $7.50-per-share dividend to be paid to million euros, or $661 million, at its disposal. who noted 693 fragrances were introduced worldwide in Caremark shareholders once the merger is fi nalized. L’Occitane sales for the year ended March 31, 2006, 2006, compared with 545 in 2005, citing statistics from The new company is to be called CVS/Caremark. grew 19 percent to 259.3 million euros, or $332.1 million fragrancesof theworld.com, an online fragrance reference. “We are gratifi ed that Caremark shareholders have at average exchange, and its net profi ts have tripled dur- “Skin care remains our forte,” he said, adding Clarins recognized the compelling strategic and fi nancial benefi ts ing the last three years. is the number-one women’s skin care brand worldwide of this groundbreaking merger,” said Mac Crawford, chair- As reported, Clarins’ net sales declined 3.1 percent to and Clarins Men is number two in its category. Clarins man, chief executive offi cer and president of Caremark in 967.2 million euros, or $1.22 billion, at average exchange is to bow a Stretch Mark Control cream and reformulate a statement Friday. “Caremark and CVS now have an his- rates, in 2006 versus 2005. Its net profi ts increased 130.8 White Plus HP whitening products. toric opportunity to defi ne and lead the continuing evolu- percent to 223.3 million euros, or $279 million, thanks to When it comes to distribution, Clarins is slated to tion of the pharmaceutical services industry.” the fi nancial transaction involving its stake in L’Occitane. further add to its own retail network, which includes 26 Tom Ryan, chairman, president and ceo of CVS, said Christian Courtin, Clarins’ president and chief exec- wholly owned institutes, 14 franchised institutes, plus 11 in a separate statement on Friday, “Today’s vote rein- utive offi cer, called his company’s performance “good. spas in luxury hotels. Further, Clarins boutique openings forces the compelling logic underpinning the merger We just missed the sales growth target of 6 percent, but are planned in China, Tokyo and Paris, said Courtin. of the nation’s largest pharmacy chain with the leading at 5.5 percent [on a like-for-like basis], we rose twice as At the end of 2007, Clarins’ Mugler plans another ex- pharmacy services company and speaks to the tremen- fast as worldwide growth of 2.7 percent.” clusive fragrance to be sold at Victoria’s Secret. This fol- dous opportunity we have before us.” Given Clarins’ yearly turnout, Milet said the company lows a similar tie-in for Innocent Secret, a scent launched In response to Caremark shareholder approval of the can independently spend as much as 600 million euros, in 2006 that generated retail sales of $1 million. merger with CVS, Express Scripts issued a statement or $793 million at current exchange, on acquisitions. Courtin expects Clarins will grow its business by 6 Friday thanking shareholders of Caremark for their “There are several opportunities that interest us,” said percent — or double the projected worldwide beauty “consideration” during its takeover attempt.

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Graphic Artist $60-85K BOT. Current exp Patternmaker $70-90K BOE. Current COSTUME JEWELRY PTTNS/SMPLS/PROD in young men’s trendy street sports- exp in womens blouses. Wovens + SHIPPING DEPT. Long time importer seeks exp’d jewel High qlty, reasonable price. Any de- wear, loungewear, underwear for dept. Women’s Designer Sportswear. 3+ yrs /access self-starter to join our sales knits. First + production patterns. On sign & fabric. Fast work. 212-714-2186 stores & better specialty store market. the table exp ok but prefer Gerber experience. Good communication and team. Must have proven following of Customer Service Manger Licensed product. [email protected] Accumark exp. Queens location. computer skills. Picking, packing, inv. volume retailers. Tremendous oppty. TOP, L/A Base, Full Package 973-564-9236 or [email protected] control, invoicing. Base + commission + benefits. J Lindeberg is the 21st Century lifestyle Fax resume w/ sal req. to: 212-768-2358 [email protected] Fax: 212-594-4466 Patterns, Samples, Production brand for the modern consumer. We Specialized in C/S knit & Sweater PATTERNMAKER ...... 80-110K are seeking A strong Customer Service Gerber exp , Daywear and Robes Call Patrick 310-270-8399 Mgr for our NYC office to manage all SPEC TECH/ E-mail: [email protected] Allen Platt SRI Search 212-465-8300 inbound and out bound shipments. To [email protected] learn more about this opportunity and www.srisearch.com QUALITY CONTROL apply for the position, please log onto Yigal Azrouel Inc seeks a Spec. Tech. www.jlindeberg.com ; click on "careers". and QC Coordinator for Designer PATTERNMAKER Womenswear Apparel. Strong Knowledge Intimate Apparel Design Growing fashion jewelry company Established designer company seeks of garment construction and specs needs high energy, positive people first patternmaker. Candidate must along with excellent computer and Co. w/regular & plus size lingerie, bra sets, ASSISTANT DESIGNER have designer/better experience in & body briefers seeks comm. based Reps/ to join our team. technical skills a must. Follow up and Major apparel co. seeks experienced eveningwear, bridal, and sportswear communication with overseas and domestic Agent w/connections. Fax/E-mail: SALES EXECUTIVE garments. Please fax or email resumes 718-361-0765 / [email protected] individual to create production/tech contractors required. Minimum 5 packs. Other responsibilities include Min. 2 yrs. exp. selling trend fashion to: (212) 764-6646 or [email protected] years experience. jewelry to better, mid-tier & mass re- helping prepare worksheets and artwork Fax or email resume to: tailers. Must be organized, have excellent 212-302-3310 or [email protected] pages. Must have knowledge of Illustra- follow thru & excellent computer skills. Patternmaker Graphic Designer tor & Photoshop. Existing relationships important. Knowledgeable in production of For well established NY based FAX RESUMES TO : 212-730-9705 leathers & exotic skins for Handbag Co. *Sweater TD $75-$85K JUNIOR DESIGNER Fax resume to 718-729-2010 Better Designer Market mens & boys co. Adobe Design Entry level position. Must have an eye *Sweater TD Freelance $30-$40/hr for trends. Excellent rendering skills PLANNER...... 50-75K [email protected] 212-947-3400 Illustrator 10.0 & Adobe ASSISTANT SWEATER & exp. of working in a wide range NJ Loc Retail Link Expert Photoshop 7.0 ISA must.Good of materials req’d. Jennifer Glenn SRI Search 212-465-8300 DESIGNER - MENS [email protected] sense of color needed. Great Sweater company seeks motivated SALES ASSISTANT/ www.srisearch Tech Designer / Pattern self-starter to work both independently GRAPHIC ARTIST Junior / Young Mens overseas manu- comm skills. Organizational and and contribute to our team. A tremen- Fast paced position for a creative, Planner/Forecaster $65-85K Current exp facturer located in North Bergen, N.J. team work are mandatory. dous growth opportunity. Be involved in SKU profiling analysis for max. sales seeks highly motivated, detail orient- in all aspects of design from conception organized person to asst sales dept. with catalogues, line sheets & to be achieved. Soft goods company. ed, organized individual with excellent Please email resumes to through production. Must have knowledge Park Ave/34th St. [email protected] communication skills and min. 5 yrs. of trends, Adobe Photoshop/ Illustra- presentations. Must have exp. [email protected] w/ Photoshop & in design. exp. Responsibilities include writing tor, Microsoft Word/Excel and specs. Strong prod. detail sheets, fit comments, communication, organization & detail Excellent compensation and benefits. Production Coordinator corrections, and grading. Knowledge ACCOUNT MANAGER $80K+ oriented skills a must. Ability to work well Please email resume, cover, and salary Major apparel Co. seeks detail oriented of patternmaking and construction. with multiple team members & manage requirements to: [email protected] & organized coordinator with 2-3 years Excellent opportunity and benefits. Women’s Sportswear. Must be well multiple tasks essential. Queens location. Must include position in subject. versed in OTB, sales analysis etc. Buy experience for a busy production de- Email resume: [email protected] Search For Space In Garment Center E-mail/fax resume attn to:Sherry Renay partment. Must have fabric/production side experience from major retailer a [email protected] or Showroom/Office/Retail - no fee plus. Be able to present line to buyers knowledge, Wal-mart experience, good www.midcomre.com 718-418-9354 Human Resource Manager communication and computer skills. and be involved in all aspects of sales Must have complete knowledge of all Technical Designer - Bra Or Call Paul 212 947-5500 X 100 and merchandising. NJ Location. Designer $100-120K. Current exp in AS400 experience preferred. Tech Designer w/ exp in full figure aspects of HR as well as benefits Please fax resumes to: 212-730-9705 Excellent benefits. Jr. premium denim market. Must hang admin, and ADP payroll. Salary BOE. foundations, fitting, patternmaking & Showrooms & Lofts Call Laurie 212-947-3399 w/ Antik, True Religion, Yanuk etc. Call Laurie 212-947-3399 grading. 5-7 years of exp. Excellent BWAY 7TH AVE SIDE STREETS or e-mail: [email protected] Email: [email protected] or e-mail: [email protected] Production Coordinator communication and computer skills Great ’New’ Office Space Avail KARLYN FASHION RECRUITERS KARLYN FASHION RECRUITERS Major apparel co. seeks motivated (Excel a must). E-mail Resume to: ADAMS & CO. 212-679-5500 Designer $90K BOE. Current exp in Jr. detail oriented & organized Production [email protected] Admin Assist $40-50K. Positions in non-denim bottoms. Twill, corduroy, Mdtn/Dwntn for non-fashion career coordinator with 2-3 years exp in poplin etc. Hang with Danang, denim for a busy production depart- oppty’s. Min 1 yr exp/college grad. Exp in Union Bay etc. [email protected] Made To Measure Microsoft Office. [email protected] ment. Must have overseas production knowledge. We prefer someone with Warehouse Specialist Clothing Specialist Busy warehouse facility in Secaucus, Admin Since 1967 DESIGNER ASSISTANT lots of private label experience i.e. Shopco, Saks, Kohl’s, Wal-Mart exp NJ is seeking an exp’d individual with Fast growing women’s sportswear co. Brooks Brothers,the 189 yr old legendary knowledge of invoicing, chargeback W-I-N-S-T-O-N seeks energetic, organized & detailed specialty retailer world-renowned for with excellent communication skills. Will handle all phases of overseas followup, and recovery, and logistics. APPAREL STAFFING person with at least 1 yr. exp. Sketching classic American style, is seeking a Made Sears IMA, and knowledge in MS DESIGN * SALES * MERCH & CAD /Photoshop/ Illustrator a must. to Measure Men’s Clothing Specialist production. Room to grow w/ excellent benefits. Please email resume to: Outlook and Excel a MUST. ADMIN * TECH * PRODUCTION E-mail :[email protected] for our Flagship New York City store Fax resume to 201-558-9898. (212)557-5000 F: (212) 986-8437 on Madison Avenue . [email protected] China Manufacturer DESIGNER In this position, you will have the oppor- Production and Sampling; Any styles; Allocator to $50K. Current exp work - Knit wear designer, contemporary and tunity to become the premiere MTM PRODUCTION COORD Excellent in quality, delivery & price. ing for apparel co. allocating goods to novelty. Full time and Part time. professional in the New York market. Novelty-driven casual sportswear co Tel(646) 322-7139/[email protected] stores. EDI, open to buy. AS400 helpful Please fax resumes at 212-268-8320. Successful candidate will possess experi- specializing in Catalog & Private Label not nec.Woodbridge, N.J. area. ence in fabrics and made-to-m easure seeks a highly-organized individual to [email protected] clothing within a luxury retail environ- manage its prdn from Delhi & China. Partner for New Div. D E S I G N E R S ment. Must have efficient communication, Complete cold weather team, prod, UPDATED MISSY DESIGNER: casual We offer Competitive Compensation planning, computer & troubleshooting sourcing, design looking for right ASSOCIATE DESIGNER lifestyle knits & woven’s for mass & skills, along w/ the ability to handle accessory co to partner for new division. Dynamic Childrenswear Co. seeks As- moderate market. JUNIORS DESIGNER: Comprehensive Benefits/Merchandise Discount. Submit resume to: orders from development to final Includes knits, cut & sewn hats and sociate designer with background in boys/ exp’d designer w/good technical skills & execution. Great package & benefits Spring/Summer. Call 856-220-5970. girls sportswear. Must have extensive great eye for trends & direction for sweaters Brooks Brothers, Attn: David Watson, for the right candidate. Email your knowledge of design construction, tech & knits. Photoshop & Illustrator exp a plus. Asst. General Manager, 346 Madison resume: [email protected] packs, lab dips, submits, as well as an Please fax resume & salary requirements to: Ave., New York, NY 10017, Wellington Capital Group understanding of denims, denim washes, E-mail: [email protected] Fax: (212) 309-7391 Well est’d., private equity fund is looking current fashion trends & color. Computer Fax: 212-944-8409 Attn: HR212 Email: [email protected] PRODUCTION Account Executive to acquire businesses & companies which exp. in CS2 required. We offer a generous EOE Aggressive apparel company seeks are primarily distressed, or in need of Designer to $75K. Current exp in Junior Immediate opening in northern NJ sales assoc. for growing Young Men’s compensation package to the right candidate. for individuals with 2-3 years exp. financial assistance. We are open to any Send resumes to: [email protected] driven tweens. Proficient on Illustrator collection. Looking for motivated acquisition or merger offer put forth. /Photoshop. Midtown. Call: 973-564-9236 Marketing working with overseas vendors, nego- individuals w/ computer experience E-mail: [email protected] or Email: [email protected] RETAIL MARKETING tiating prices & delivery for ladies belt and excellent communication skills to ASSOCIATE DESIGNER division. Generous Salary & Benefits! work in NY Showroom. Established women’s contemp clothing Design Product Coord. MANAGER PLEASE EMAIL : [email protected] Please email resume to: co. seeks an associate designer w/ 3-5 Intimate Apparel Co. seeks highly An internationally known Italian [email protected] yrs exp. Must be able to meet dead- luxury retailer seeks a Retail Marketing Production Mgr $80-90K BOE. organized individual with bra design Current exp in sourcing in Far East. lines, posses’ great follow-thru skills & and product development background. Manager w/min 3 yrs experience in- exp w/ women’s sprtswr. Responsible cluding customer database analysis, Chinese Eng Bilingual. Strong exp in Strong follow-up and communication denim washes, dyeing, construction D.P. ACCESSORIES for design/line devlpmnt & awareness skills. Excel & Adobe Illustrator a must. CRM, store events & programs devel- of fashion trends. The ideal candidate opment. Past experience in luxury etc. Travel to China two times a year. SALES ASSOCIATE Freelance position. E-mail Resumes: [email protected] RETAILERS & will have strong backgrnd knwldge of [email protected] sector preferred. Please submit resume D.P. Accessories - Leading accessory garment construction, as well as lead- in MS Word, PDF, or Text format to: showroom is seeking an enthusiastic Production Source Mgr $175-200K BOE MANUFACTURERS ership skills in a fast paced envrnmnt. [email protected] and motivated sales associate. Appro- E-mail resume to: [email protected] Design/Production Assoc Current exp in sourcing womens and priate candidate will assist in growing DISTRIBUTION SERVICE Leading Denim Mfr. seeks a creative, girls panties, bras, sleepwear WW. sales along with our current sales detail-oriented person to join our team. From inception to completion. Large co. team. In addition, candidate will also ASSOCIATE DESIGNER Responsibilities will include: Creating Email: [email protected] assist in merchandising and other •Pick & Pack Services Fast paced contemporary career/casual design worksheets, final art & fabric showroom responsibilities. private label co seeks talented associate /trim details for production packages. Production Sourcing Mgr $200-225K REQUIREMENTS: •Apparel & Hardgoods BOE. Current exp in kidswear. Must •Consolidation Services level designer who can work inde- Proficiency in Illustrator, garment Merchandising Expert Candidate must love to sell, and have a pendently, has strong follow-up skills, construction & textile knowledge is a (Solution Implementation have strong exp w/ delivering to Wal- strong following of accessory clients. •Established 1977 w/ ability to sketch & illustrate. Profi- must. Great opportunity to learn both Mart. Midtown Co. [email protected] We are a multi classification accessory ciency in Photoshop & Illustrator as aspects of the industry. Excellent Consultant for Merchandising) •Prestigious Client List PRODUCTION ...... to 110k showroom. Candidate must provide well as exp in both wovens & knits. benefits. Please email resume to: Epicor|CRS is an innovative leader in excellent customer service. D.P. Acces- •Great Management Team Competitive salary & excellent benefits. [email protected] software and services for the dynamic CMT Exp Fluent Spanish Jennifer Glenn SRI Search 212-465-8300 sories provides competitive compensa- •Dedicated Hardworking Employees Fax resume to 212-556-5375 retail industry - chosen by over 130 of tion and benefits. Please email your Design today’s top specialty retailers world- [email protected] www.srisearch.com resume to [email protected]. wide. We are a division of Epicor Soft- No phone calls/faxes please. CALL: Rob Kennedy BOOKKEEPER SWEATER DESIGNER ware Corporation, currently the 8th (201)865-1100 Payable/Receivable, Reconcile Banks,QB. MENS largest ERP software company in the *Product or Production* Must be detail oriented/ hard working. world. Seeking indiv. with retail busi- Assistants-Coordinators-Managers Please fax: 212-704-4340 Seeking an experienced, motivated, organized person who is able to work ness process exp who can apply this Many Jobs-Excellent Salaries Linea Pelle, inc. independently to be a part of our team. expertise along with knowledge of Call B. Murphy(212)643-8090; fax 643-8127 BUYER/ PIECE GOODS Responsibilities include handling our retail applications to effectively ACCOUNT EXECUTIVE PATTERN/SAMPLES Established mfg. co seeks Piece Goods specific licensed labels and private consult, install and train on the QUALITY CONTROL SOUTHEAST TERRITORY Reliable. High quality. Low cost. Fast Buyer, detail oriented,organized, label product. Must be able to wear Epicor|CRS retail merchandising solu- High-end Belt and Handbag Company work. Small/ Lrg production 212-629-4808 many hats at one time and eager for tion. Must have knowledge of the retail NY Eveningwear firm seeks QC person computer literate, able to multi-task, for domestic factories. Must have at in LA seeks motivated independent Sales communicate with suppliers/factories. challenges. Sweater experience a supply chain and/or exp consulting Rep or showroom to represent & manage MUST. Able to design from initial and implementing enterprise applica- least 5 yrs exp. and good sewing skills. Microsoft EXCEL a MUST. Please fax resume to: 212-730-8159 Southeast territory & be based in Florida. PATTERNS, SAMPLES, Please fax resumes to: 212-268-4920 or concept, color, yarn through all aspects tions. Position based in Seattle, WA Responsibilities include; travel to spe- email: [email protected] up to sales sample. Must be detail or Newburgh, NY. Competitive Salary cialty stores, open new accounts, analyze PRODUCTIONS oriented and able to multi-task. and Excellent Benefits. Receptionist business & develop strategies to increase CFO/COO/to $250K+ Knowledge of cut and sew knits, Fax resume to: 845-926-1318 or All lines, Any styles. Fine Fast Service. 5th Ave. Luxury Jewelry Co. seeks a F/T sales. Very competitive commission Call Sherry 212-719-0622. Oversee branded multi-divisional NYC Adobe Illustrator and Photoshop a plus. E-mail: [email protected] structure. Ideal candidate must have 3- apparel co. with CFO & COO respon. E-mail resume to: Phone: 845-926-4318 Receptionist; Mon. - Fri., 9am - 6pm. Must have great personal style and superior 5 yrs. sales experience in contemporary Req: must have 10+ yrs in the apparel [email protected] www.epicor.com market. Excellent selling, organizational industry with CFO title at branded co., communication skills. E-mail resume & PATTERNS, SAMPLES, cover letter: [email protected] & communications skills a must & be with volume over $170M. Strong FABRIC SOURCING computer literate. PRODUCTIONS management & communication skills. Entry to Advanced Level Office Asst./ Receptionist Please fax resumes to: (310) 231-9949 Full service shop to the trade. Proven ability to improve profitability. Busy ladies sptswr Co. seeks bright, SAMPLE CUTTER or E-mail: [email protected] Email resume: [email protected] Must be detail oriented with good 7th Ave fashion designer seeks exp’d Fine fast work. 212-869-2699. follow-up skills. Strong in Excel, email energetic, computer literate person to Ph: 917-945-0418 manage front desk, answer phones samplecutter for eveningwear. and all basic computer programs. Job Call 347-439-5200 requires someone who works on build- and data entry. Good organizational SALES AGENT Patterns/Samples/Production COSTING SPECIALIST ing charts and collecting info as well skills a necessity. Send resume and H.K/Shanghai based OEM apparel Snaps/Covered Button Major apparel company seeks job costing as being able to problem solve and cover letter to: SAMPLEMAKER operation is expanding! Seek skillful Any Style - Full Service specialist to manage standard costing, follow instructions in detail. Box#M 1006 Fashion designer seeks exp’d C% sales & agent from US & Canada. Call 212-278-0608 / 646-441-0950 GM performance and perpetual inven- Please email resume to: c/o Fairchild Classified Samplemaker for custom suits & Net 30 possible for factor-approved Beading Service By Professional tories. Mas200 experience a plus. [email protected] or 750 Third Avenue, 5th Fl eveningwear. Manhattan location. accounts. Contact Archi at: Contract: Penney 917-576-3138 Send resumes:[email protected] fax to: 212-685-4341 New York, NY 10017 Call: (347) 439-5200 [email protected] WWD, MONDAY, MARCH 19, 2007 23 WWD.COM

NEW HOMMES: With ubiquitous British bad- boy rocker Pete Doherty COS Debuts in London MEMO PAD on the cover (shot by Mario Testino), the new By Nina Jones issue of Vogues Hommes International heralds its relaunch under the editorial LONDON — With its white walls, larchwood direction of Carine Roitfeld and editor in floor and minimal steel and wood fittings, chief Olivier Lalanne, who took over last the global flagship of COS, the new up-mar- year from Bruno Danto, who spent only a ket line from H&M, speaks as subtly as the year atop the Condé Nast title. With the brand’s debut collection of classic pieces. same duo that oversees French Vogue The two-story, 4,860-square-foot space guiding the ship, the book was bound on Regent Street, designed by architect to bear similarities to its big sister. William Russell, opened its doors Friday. Roitfeld’s proclivity for steamy photo It carries women’s wear pieces such as spreads is present (one has horseshoes chunky cream wool jackets, white cotton bound to men’s crotches) as well as a smock dresses and gray silk shirts, which certain soigné take on fashionable living, hang on plain steel and concrete rails. with the requisite lists of hotels and There are also dressier pieces, such as restaurants. As is par for men’s mags an ultra-soft gray leather jacket, silk bell- these days, there are articles on sex sleeved dresses, bib-front cotton shirts and, (an essay on pornography and talk with Larry Flynt), an interview with a among the muted hues, a few stiff cotton hip writer (Jay McInerney), a cool spread (John Lautner’s Harpel House in dresses in lime green and tomato red. Looks inside COS. L.A.) and fast cars (a white Ferrari Testarossa, naked women oblige). “We wanted the collection to look very With a more incisive fashion sense, though, the issue counts lush photo wearable,” said Rebekka Bay, design direc- spreads by the likes of Inez van Lamsweerde and Vinoodh Matadin, Patrick tor for the women’s wear collection, as cus- Demarchelier and Jeff Burton. Publisher Diane Kocupyr said the book, tomers jostled for space in the light-fi lled published in separate French and English editions, has 137 advertising store. “We’ve suggested how to wear [the] pages, up 50 percent from the same issue last year. It hits newsstands garments — a very feminine shirt will hang Wednesday. — Robert Murphy next to a pair of trousers — it’s very much what works together.” ANNIE’S SALE: Annie Leibovitz is said to have sold her Paris apartment Bay added she was pleased to see a to Jane Wenner, co-owner of Wenner Media. Leibovitz’s agent and mix of customers in the store, as shoppers a spokesman for Wenner declined to comment, but the sale of the toting shopping bags from Burberry and apartment Leibovitz bought for her late longtime companion Susan Selfridges mixed with those who had come Sontag has been public knowledge. The apartment is a third-fl oor walk- from Topshop and H&M. “It looks like we up located on the Quai des Grands Augustins, according to Leibovitz’s have a good mix — it’s maybe a slightly most recent book, in a building built in 1640 with a view of the Seine. older customer than H&M. We hope [COS] Photographs of the apartment also appear in the book. is seen as a new brand — it’s in-between Leibovitz fi rst became famous in the pages of Rolling Stone, for high fashion and high street.” which she shot until 1983, and Wenner’s son, Theo, reportedly stayed Bay declined to provide sales predic- at the apartment while interning for Leibovitz. — Irin Carmon tions for the store. Prices range from 19 euros, or $25, for a jersey top to 229 euros, GREEN GRAB: The green media mania may be reaching its apex or $298, for a leather jacket. when every magazine from Philadelphia Style to Washington Flyer Like a designer store, there are lounge (the offi cial magazine of the Metropolitan Washington Airports, for areas for customers, furnished with the uninitiated) heralds their very own green issue, but National Scandinavian sofas and a stack of style Geographic Ventures has done the trend one better by actually buying magazines. A small selection of lifestyle products are also on sale, such as Haakansons cosmetics a green media property. Though the National Geographic Society is not and skin care, Wallpaper City Guides and CDs by hip French band Nouvelle Vague. particularly known for acquisitions, its taxable subsidiary has bought Bay said another nine COS stores would open across Europe this year, with units in Hamburg, The Green Guide, a nonprofi t monthly newsletter since 1994 and a Düsseldorf, Berlin, Stuttgart, Munich, Brussels and The Hague set to open this spring. The company Web site with premium content since 2002. The consumer-focused is scouting in larger cities in Europe for a further two stores to open in the fall. Green Guide has a staff of four and several freelancers; it will be folded A spokeswoman for H&M said the company had no plans to open COS stores in the U.S. yet, into National Geographic’s digital division. Two environmentalist books adding the brand’s focus is currently on Europe. The company also said last week that Karl-Johan are due from National Geographic in the spring. — I.C. Persson, director of business development at H&M and the son of Stefan Persson, chairman of H&M, would oversee the COS chain.

SALES ASSISTANT SALES EXECUTIVE Growing NY based Home Textiles Co. Leading Childrenswear Manufacturer selling to national retailers & specialty located in midtown Manhattan is seeking stores seeks Production/Sales Assistant. an aggressive salesperson. Experience with Department & Specialty store SALES REP accounts and sales contacts is a must. Seeking additional Accessory Lines as RESPONSIBILITIES: well as Consulting & Product Create purchase orders & communicate The ideal candidate will be hardwork- ing, personable and have excellent Development - 25 years experience with factories overseas to expedite. Fill Retail Sales Associate - P/T Call: 917-575-2278 item agreement forms for national re- communication skills. This is a great tailers. Coordinate with warehouse and opportunity to get involved with a well IMMEDIATE OPENING! Ladies’ Handbag Executive vendors to ensure distribution proce- respected and established company ! Seeking a unique individual with fashion If you need the Best Person to expand dures. Finalize pick tickets & monitor Email resume to: [email protected] retail experience for a fun and friendly your Handbag Business, then you better EDI transmissions. environment. Great opportunity to grow answer this ad now...!!! Multi-talented SALES HELP WANTED with a small, exciting team. Enthusiasm, Handbag Executive with expertise in REQUIREMENTS: Leading embellishment company of a love of fashion, and customer service Manufacturing, Line Building, and Sales Must have 2 yrs experience in import Embroideries, Beading, Pleating, Stitching, a must. Excellent communication skills Management. Vast domestic & overseas textile business (home area). Must be Bias, and much more! Please fax resume and previous high-end retail experience Boys’ & Girls’ Denim experience in Leather/Vinyls/Fabrics. proficient in Excel & Photoshop. 212-971-9105 Attn: Robert Meyer essential. We offer a competitive salary. Leading mfr of boys’ and girls’ denim Have sold to Regional & National Dept. Fax resume to: 212-255-8587 or E-mail: and knits looking for exp’d salesperson Stores, Chains, Specialty & Shoe Stores, Compensation will be $40K+ with health [email protected] who has strong following with chains and Off-Price & Discounters. Out of SALESPERSON and discounters all over United States. benefits & bonus for those who qualify. Career & Evening Suits, Warehouse & direct selling. E-mail to: Email to: [email protected] [email protected] Ethnic Apparel NYC. Fax: (212) 947-4841 PLEASE FAX YOUR RESUME TO: Account list a plus, 3 years min. exp., Global Resources Sg, Inc., Sal. + Comm. Fax: 212-704-4340. 212-594-1640 SALES PROFESSIONAL Well known NY based gift/stationery SALES PERSONNEL company seeks highly motivated sales DAMIANI exec. w/min 5 yrs experience to main- tain existing account structure, as well A luxury leader in Italian Jewelry, we are as develop new business. Well estab- expanding our Sales Force and seeking lished contacts with mass retailers a qualified, enthusiastic Sales Personnel plus. Salary negotiable, based on expe- at our Madison Avenue, NY & King of SALES e-mail: [email protected] rience. 401k plus full benefits. Prussia, PA Boutiques. Prior related Nat’l Retail Dir/Lux goods exp $120k+ Please email resume to experience in the jewelry industry is a Ast Stor Mgr/Sls Assoc /Lux $50k+/$35k+ [email protected] must, as well as excellent communication IT Manager/ Retail exp $Open skills. Background in the luxury market Financial Analyst /Cosmetic bkgrd $Open is preferred and any foreign language Sales Rep skills are welcome. Please Fax or E-mail Women’s Underwear & Sleepwear Co. resumes with salary requirements to: seeks Exp’d Sales Rep. Please E-mail 212-760-2796 / [email protected] resume to: salesrep _NYC@hotmail .com ©2007 Sean John Eyewear, Produced and distributed exclusively by Marchon Eyewear, Inc. Style: SJ115S