RETAILER JANET BROWN DIES/4 BULGARI’S U.S. EXPANSION/10 WWDWomen’s Wear Daily • The Retailers’MONDAY Daily Newspaper • March 19, 2007 • $2.00 Accessories/Innerwear/Legwear Incredible Bulk Broad shoulders are all the rage for fall, thanks to Martin Margiela and Balenciaga’s Nicolas Ghesquière, who launched the look last season and have continued it this time around. Margiela’s latest Maison styles are a little Joan Crawford, a little Eighties padded glory, and also read as right for a new strong, empowered woman. Here, his wool, silk and cashmere sweater dress. For more, see pages 6 and 7. Latest Designer Link: Brooks Bros. to Unveil Thom Browne Women’s By David Moin rading up is getting contagious and TBrooks Brothers is the latest to catch the bug. Nordstrom and Blooming dale’s continue to add designer offerings, Lord & Taylor has dumped moderate offerings in favor of better and bridge and J. Crew keeps pushing the envelope with higher prices while maintaining its openers. And, if they’re not doing it by price, retailers are doing it in image, from H&M to Wal-Mart and Target. Brooks Brothers has been raising its standards over the last few years. The next step in the process will come on See Browne, Page18 PHOTO BY DOMINIQUE MAITRE PHOTO BY 2 WWD, MONDAY, MARCH 19, 2007 WWD.COM Benetton Names Music Exec as CEO By Amanda Kaiser for innovation and development The retailer’s fi nancial perfor- [plans] of Benetton Group,” the mance is showing improvement. WWDMONDAY MILAN — Benetton SpA tapped company said in a statement. Benetton released full-year 2006 Accessories/Innerwear/Legwear a new chief executive officer, Before joining Warner Music, results Friday in line with previ- once again turning to a fashion Caccia Dominioni held various ous guidance. Net profi t rose 11.7 FASHION world outsider. positions at Time Warner and percent to 125 million euros, or Exaggerated shoulders, some worthy of a defensive lineman, are turning Warner Music executive Gerol- Philips Italia. Reached at Warner $157.5 million. Revenues grew 8.3 6 up in treatments ranging from peaked pagodas to whimsical appliqués. amo Caccia Dominioni will take offi ces in London, he declined to percent to 1.91 billion euros, or over on June 1, the clothing fi rm comment. $2.41 billion. Dollar fi gures have said Fri day. Caccia Dominioni re- The appointment comes amid been converted at average ex- GENERAL places Silvano Cassano, who left a generational shift at Benetton. change rates for the period. Brooks Brothers is breaking out its fi rst proprietary designer collection in November after clashing with Family patriarch and chairman As for the current year, 1 on Tuesday called Black Fleece, designed by Thom Browne. the Benetton family over interna- Luciano Benetton said in October Benetton noted a strong order Benetton has again tapped a new ceo from outside the fashion world, tional strategy. that he will hand over the reins book for the spring-summer and naming Warner Music executive Gerolamo Caccia Dominioni on Friday. Caccia Dominioni, 52, is cur- to his son Alessandro this year. fall-winter seasons. The com- 2 rently the London-based vice A Benetton spokesman said pany estimated earnings before Kellwood Co.’s earnings fell 44.3 percent to $7 million in the fourth chairman and chief operating Alessandro led the ceo search. interest, taxes, depreciation and 4 quarter, but sales grew 10.2 percent to $446.5 million. officer of Warner Music Inter- Armando Branchini, presi- amortization this year will grow INNERWEAR: Industry veteran Nancy Ganz is back with R. Lilly by Tuck- national, a division of Warner dent of Milan-based consultancy 20 percent, while sales should erwear, an undergarment and lifestyle line aimed at tweens. Music Group. The Italian ex- InterCorporate, said he was rise between 6 and 8 percent. 8 ecutive has spent 10 years at the surprised Alessandro Benetton Benetton said it will invest be- Retail prices on women’s apparel swelled 0.8 percent last month and music company, fi rst as chairman didn’t opt for a fashion insider, tween 250 million euros, or $330.6 18 5.2 percent for a year earlier, the Consumer Price Index revealed. of operations in southern Europe but he considers Caccia Dom- million, and 300 million euros, or and later as chairman for all of inioni’s music background a $396.7 million, this year, most of Obituary..............................................................................................4 the European business. valuable asset. Warner’s portfo- it on international expansion. Benetton said Caccia Dom- lio of recording artists includes Since 2003, the Benettons Classifi ed Advertisements.............................................................21-23 inioni played a signifi cant role in Madonna, Green Day, Red Hot have said they want to step back growing Warner’s international Chili Peppers and R.E.M. from day-to-day operations, act- To e-mail reporters and editors at WWD, the address is fi rstname. presence in about 40 countries, “The elder members of the ing as shareholders rather than [email protected], using the individual’s name. including emerging markets. Benetton family would not have managers. The company reiter- Benetton said it chose the execu- chosen anyone from the enter- ated that intent Friday. WWD IS A REGISTERED TRADEMARK OF ADVANCE MAGAZINE PUBLISHERS INC. COPYRIGHT tive for his international experi- tainment world while Alessandro Caccia Dominioni is not the ©2007 FAIRCHILD FASHION GROUP. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. PRINTED IN THE U.S.A. VOLUME 193, NO. 58. WWD (ISSN 0149–5380) is published daily (except Saturdays, Sundays and holidays, with one ence, knowledge of local markets did,” Branchini said. “The com- first non-fashion executive to additional issue in January and November, two additional issues in March, May, June, August and December, and three and ability to thrive in an ever- pany needs to get back in touch take Benetton’s helm. The com- additional issues in February, April, September and October) by Fairchild Fashion Group, which is a division of Advance Magazine Publishers Inc. PRINCIPAL OFFICE: 750 Third Avenue, New York, NY 10017. Shared Services provided by evolving entertainment industry. with young consumers.” pany tends to turn to talent from Condé Nast Publications: S. I. Newhouse, Jr., Chairman; Charles H. Townsend, President/CEO; John W. Bellando, Executive “These characteristics, togeth- Benetton has faced some tough other industries. Cassano was a Vice President/COO; Debi Chirichella Sabino, Senior Vice President/CFO; Jill Bright, Executive Vice President/Human Resources. Periodicals postage paid at New York, NY, and at additional mailing offi ces. Canada Post Publications Mail er with his consistency and his times. Market observers have said former Fiat executive. His prede- Agreement No. 40644503. Canadian Goods and Services Tax Registration No. 886549096-RT0001. Canada Post: return capacity to create a cohesive and the company needs to do a better cessors Luigi De Puppi and Carlo undeliverable Canadian addresses to: P.O. Box 503, RPO West Beaver Cre, Rich-Hill, ON L4B 4R6 POSTMASTER: SEND ADDRESS CHANGES TO WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY, P.O. Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA motivated managerial team, are job of competing with more fash- Gilardi came from the worlds of 91615–5008. FOR SUBSCRIPTIONS, ADDRESS CHANGES, ADJUSTMENTS, OR BACK ISSUE particularly in-line with the en- ion-forward chains Hennes & home appliances and banking, INQUIRIES: Please write to WWD, P.O. Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA 91615-5008, call 800-289-0273, or visit www.subnow.com/wd. Please give both new and old addresses as printed on most recent label. First copy of new trepreneurial culture, capability Mauritz and Inditex’s Zara. respectively. subscription will be mailed within four weeks after receipt of order. Address all editorial, business, and production correspondence to WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY, 750 Third Avenue, New York, NY 10017. For permissions and reprint requests, please call 212-630-4274 or fax requests to 212-630-4280. Visit us online at www.wwd.com. To subscribe to other Fairchild magazines on the World Wide Web, visit www.fairchildpub.com. Occasionally, we make our subscriber list available to carefully screened companies that offer products and services that we believe would interest our readers. If you do not want to receive these offers and/or information, please advise us at P.O. Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA Ann Taylor Profi ts Fall 21.5% in 4th Quarter 91615-5008 or call 800-289-0273. WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY IS NOT RESPONSIBLE FOR THE RETURN OR LOSS OF, OR FOR DAMAGE OR ANY OTHER INJURY TO, UNSOLICITED MANUSCRIPTS, UNSOLICITED ART WORK (INCLUDING, from $43.2 million. Comparable- percent to $1.15 billion and Ann BUT NOT LIMITED TO, DRAWINGS, PHOTOGRAPHS, AND TRANSPARENCIES), OR ANY OTHER UNSOLICITED By David Moin MATERIALS. THOSE SUBMITTING MANUSCRIPTS, PHOTOGRAPHS, ART WORK, OR OTHER MATERIALS FOR store sales declined 6 percent Taylor sales grew 4.4 percent to CONSIDERATION SHOULD NOT SEND ORIGINALS, UNLESS SPECIFICALLY REQUESTED TO DO SO BY WOMEN’S WEAR ashion misses, the warm and fell 5.9 percent at Ann $912.8 million. DAILY IN WRITING. MANUSCRIPTS, PHOTOGRAPHS, AND OTHER MATERIALS SUBMITTED MUST BE ACCOMPANIED BY FDecember and heavy mark- Taylor and 8.9 percent at Loft. The fi rm also revealed a string A SELF-ADDRESSED STAMPED ENVELOPE. downs hurt fourth-quarter sales Total sales in the quarter rose of growth initiatives, including: and earnings at AnnTaylor Stores 6.3 percent to $610.5 million ● Developing an exclusive MONDAY: New York Holiday Market (through March 30). Corp., though the specialty re- from $574 million. The retailer’s beauty business and partnering tailer came out ahead for the 2006 fourth quarter and fi scal with Robin Burns and her new TUESDAY: Perry Ellis International reports fourth- year overall.
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