The ATLANTA HISTORICAL BULLETIN

Published by the ATLANTA HISTORICAL SOCIETY

Vol. VIII January, 1947 No. 31 The Bulletin is the organ of the Atlanta Historical Society and is sent free to its members. All persons in­ terested in the history of Atlanta are invited to join the Society. Correspondence concerning contributions for the Bulletin should be sent to the Joint Editors, Stephens Mitchell, 605 Peters Building, Atlanta, or to Franklin M. Garrett, The Coca-Cola Company, Atlanta. Applications for membership and dues should be sent to the Executive Secretary, Miss Ruth Blair, at the office of the Society, 1753 Peachtree St., N. W. Single numbers of the Bulletin may be obtained from the secretary.

Members of the Atlanta Historical Society, wnen making their wills, are requested to remember this organi­ zation. Legacies of historical books, papers, pictures and museum materials, in additon to funds, are wanted for the Society. The latter are particularly needed with which to complete payment for the new home and for its main­ tenance and furnishing.

CurtiHB Printing Co., Inc., Atlanta ATLANTA HISTORICAL SOCIETY Officers, Members of Advisory Council, and Board of Directors, 191+7

WALTER MCELREATH Honorary President for Life and Chairman, Board of Directors HENRY A. ALEXANDER President GORDON F. MITCHELL Vice-President JOHN ASHLEY JONES Treasurer FRANKLIN M. GARRETT Secretary

STEPHENS MITCHELL \ _ _ _ _Joint Editors FRANKLIN M. GARRETT j RUTH BLAIR Executive Secretary Advisory Council, Term ending January, 191+8 A. G. DEVAUGHN E. KATHERINE ANDERSON JOHN ASHLEY JONES JOHN M. HARRISON A. A. MEYER MRS. P. THORNTON MARYE JOSIAH T. ROSE WALTER MCELREATH JOHN M. SLATON META BARKER Advisory Council, Term ending January, 191+9 MRS. R. W. DAVIS MRS. JOHN S. SPALDING JOHN M. COOPER BEVERLY M. DUBOSE ROBERT LEE AVARY MRS. J. 0. WYNN CHARLES P. KING CARL T. HUDGINS MRS. JOHN R. MARSH T. J. O'KEEFE

Advisory Council, Term ending January, 1950 MRS. A. P. BRANTLEY CLARENCE HAVERTY MRS. THOS. H. MORGAN EDWARD S. WEST MRS. ELI A. THOMAS RUTH BLAIR DR. FRANK K. BOLAND MRS. S. W. MCCALLIE FRANKLIN M. GARRETT ELLA MAE THORNTON Board of Directors WALTER MCELREATH, Chairman H. A. ALEXANDER JOSIAH T. ROSE G. F. MITCHELL BEVERLY M. DUBOSE JOHN ASHLEY JONES JOHN M. SLATON FRANKLIN M. GARRETT EDWARD S. WEST ELLA MAE THORNTON R. R. OTIS DR. FRANK K. BOLAND CHARLES P. KING TABLE OF CONTENTS

Officers, Members of Advisory Council and Board of Directors of Atlanta Historical Society, Inc., 1947 59

Dr. Ashby Jones, by Caroline Pierce Dillard 61

History of West End 1830-1910, by Cornelia E. Cooper 65

New Home of Atlanta Historical Society 60

Some Nineteenth Century Atlanta Homes Still Oc­ cupied by the Families of Their Builders, by Julia Porter Block 95

William Barnes, C.S.A., Captain Leydens Battery, Ninth Georgia Battalion of Artillery, by John M. Harrison 100

Pryor Street In Its Young Days, by Leonora Raines 105

Founders, Atlanta Historical Society _ 118

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THE ATLANTA HISTORICAL BULLETIN Vol. VIII JANUARY, 1947 No. 31

DR. ASHBY JONES*

By CAROLYN PIERCE DILLARD Liberal is a word which people use spontaneously when they speak of Dr. Ashby Jones. Now, liberal means all things to all people, depending upon their political complex­ ions, but Dr. Jones likes the label. He particularly likes to think of liberal in its historical meaning, freedom to think. In any discussion of him, another word, or rather a prefix, recurs — inter — interracial, interdenominational, interna­ tional. But Dr. Jones is not the glib, upstart type of liberal who thinks that any disparagement of the South sets him apart as a man of discernment. He is a gentleman by birth and training. Born in Lexington, Virginia, in 1868, he was given the name Meredith Ashby. His father, who had served as a chaplain under General Lee, had followed the General when he became president of Washington College, later to become Washington and Lee University. There is a tradition that the great General once held the baby Ashby in his arms, and although he cannot document this statement, Dr. Jones says he is ready to fight anyone who challenges it. Throughout his life, Dr. Jones has been a student and a thinker. For this, he had a sound academic background at the University of Richmond, Washington and Lee Univer­ sity, the Southern Baptist Theological Seminary, and the University of Virginia. He was ordained into the Baptist ministry in 1893 and two years later was married to Miss May Turner of Rich­ mond, Kentucky. Their only son is Turner Jones, of Port­ land, Maine.

*This paper was prepared for and read as a part of the May 1945 program of the Atlanta Historical Society. 62 THE ATLANTA HISTORICAL BULLETIN

After spending the early years of his ministry in Virginia and Kentucky, Dr. Jones came to Georgia in 1906 to accept a call to the First Baptist Church of Columbus. Two years later he transferred to the First Baptist Church of Augusta, where he served with growing reputation until 1917, when he came to the Ponce de Leon Baptist Church in Atlanta. Here he took a position of leadership in the life of the city, and in 1926 when he resigned because of an "unanswerable conviction" that the Second Baptist Church of St. Louis offered him "not a larger field but one better suited to his individual talents and training," his decision shook the en­ tire city. Press and editorial comment at that time reflect the regret so generally felt at his going. Nevertheless, in 1932, when he gave up the active pastorate, Dr. Jones re­ turned to Atlanta as a preacher and lecturer, and again he was called upon to take a stand on all matters affecting the welfare of the community. In the pulpit Dr. Jones is unforgettable; a man rather small in stature with a radiance of spirit making his face glow, he delivers a simple, thoughtful sermon, which gains validity from the character of the speaker. His influence, moreover, has extended far beyond his congregation. Five times he has been called to Europe; once in 1921 he was speaker before the International Rotary in Edinburgh; twice he went to Europe with the Sherwood Eddy seminar (one of these times he was sent with a small group to make a detailed study of Soviet Russia) ; in 1928 he visited Eng­ land as guest speaker of the British Committee of World Alliance for Peace. Commenting upon the fact that he spoke 48 times in 32 days, Dr. Jones said: "The English got a good deal more speaking out of it than they did peace." As a writer, he is known best as the author of a column, "Text and Pretext," which has appeared in the Sunday edi­ tion of the Atlanta Constitution since 1919. We may well regret that he has published little else, for he has developed a prose style that is cleanly edited and flexible; but writ­ ing, Dr. Jones says, is difficult for him. A number of his sermons, however, have been included in various collections. It is his interracial work which gives Dr. Jones the great- DR. ASHBY JONES 63 est personal satisfaction. About 1919 when the soldiers were returning from the first World War and there was appre­ hension as to what would happen when the Negroes came back, he, with three other men, Dr. Plato Durham of Emory University, Mr. John Eagan, and Dr. C. B. Wilmer, organ­ ized the Interracial Commission of the South. Locally, there was no Negro high school at that time. Recognizing the need, Dr. Jones served as spearhead in the movement which resulted in a bond election and ultimately in two Negro high schools. Neither did Atlanta have a recreation spot for the Negroes. Here again Dr. Jones helped to create sentiment, which, coupled with a cash gift from Mr. Eagan, gave the city the Booker Washington Park. Continuing to fight for justice in the pulpit and in his column, Dr. Jones did not escape opposition. Nor was his work overlooked by the Ku Klux Klan, which in those days was more than vocal. A second field in which Dr. Jones finds genuine satisfac­ tion is his interdenominational activities, particularly his work with the National Conference of Jews and Christians. In Atlanta, Dr. Jones was instrumental in organizing the Christian Council, with representation from the laity as well as the clergy of all denominations. When he left his pastor­ ate in Augusta, the Catholics of the city presented him with a handsome gold watch, and he is still wearing it. This trib­ ute was in appreciation of Dr. Jones' defense of the Catho­ lics against Tom Watson. Always interested in international affairs, he has taken an active part in patriotic matters. During the first World War, he toured the state with a Catholic and a Jew in behalf of Liberty Bonds; at the request of the War Department, during the present war, he has spoken at camps throughout the South as a part of the orientation program. He visited camps also as a representative of the National Conference of Jews and Christians. Dr. Jones has been awarded the degree of Doctor of Di­ vinity by the University of Richmond, and later Oglethorpe conferred upon him the LL.D. degree. He is a Kappa Alpha, a Phi Beta Kappa, a Shriner, a Mason, and a Rotarian. At present he is honorary president of the Atlanta Branch of the English-Speaking Union. 64 THE ATLANTA HISTORICAL BULLETIN

Although ahead of his times, he has lived to see a measure of realization. As an honest man and a realist, he knows that many things for which he has worked will not come true within his lifetime and for years to come. But he is still optimistic because he can say with Browning: "What I aspired to be, And was not, comforts me." He believes that aspirations are as real as accomplishments and that in the life beyond, he will have the opportunity to work out things impossible here. While some may not agree with all of the positions he has taken, there seems to be remarkable unanimity in evaluating the man. People call him "fearless," "balanced," "broad- minded," "advanced," "statesmanlike." Rabbi Marx, who has been closely associated with him, says: "Dr. Jones is the quintessence of religious ethics." Says Dr. Jones: "What am I doing now? Oh, I don't know. I'm just still around."

Sources Who's Who in America, Vol. XIX Clippings Atlanta Journal Atlanta Constitution Interviews Rabbi David Marx Mr. Kendall Weisiper Dr. Ashby Jones Personal knowledge Editor's Note—Dr. Jones passed away at his home in Atlanta, Jan. 1947. HISTORY OF WEST END 1830 - 1910 By CORNELIA E. COOPER

(I wish to thank Mr. Stephens Mitchell and Mr. Franklin Garrett for criticism, Mr. R. H. Caldwell for writing his memoirs, and the fol­ lowing for supplying valuable material: Mr. Tom Stewart, Mr. Julian La Rose Harris, Miss Ruth Blair, Miss Ella May Thornton, Mrs. John S. Spalding, Mrs. Robert N. Hughs, Miss Rusha Wesley, Miss Agnes Pritchard.) To trace the history of West End, one goes back to the early 1830's, and glances at the territory now occupied by the city of Atlanta. Most of it was forest. To the west near Ben Hill,1 a settlement had been made about 1822 by fami­ lies from Franklin County.2 Three churches had sprung up, Mt. Gilead Methodist,3 near Ben Hill, Utoy Baptist,4 near Ft. McPherson, and Mt. Zion Methodist,5 near Hapeville. Six miles east of Five Points was Decatur.6 The intervening space was broken by three roads.7 Settlers were few. George Washington Collier lived near Peachtree Creek,8 where he had settled with his father, Meredith Collier, in 1823, and Hardy Ivy built a cabin a short distance from Peachtree Street about 1833.9 Settlement was stimulated by the coming of the railroad. In 1836 the legislature passed an act providing for the con­ struction of the Western and Atlantic Railroad from Ten­ nessee to a point from which branch roads could be extended

1. Present-day names are used for the locations mentioned in this paragraph. 2. Official History of Fulton County, Atlanta, 1934, Walter G. Cooper, p. 32. 3. Ibid. p. 37. 4. Ibid. p. 34. 5. Ibid. p. 39. 6. Map drawn by E. W. Robert, County Surveyor, for Cooper's History, quoted above, p. iii. 7. Records of the Inferior Court of DeKalb County, quoted by Cooper, p. 32. 8. Records of the Superior Court of DeKalb County, checked by Mr. Stephens Mitchell. 9. History of Atlanta and Its Pioneers, Pioneer Citizens, Inc., Atlanta, 1902. 66 THE ATLANTA HISTORICAL BULLETIN to Madison, Milledgeville, Forsyth, and Columbus.10 This point was called Terminus.11 Even before the passage of the act, settlers began moving in, and a hotel was needed. Charner Humphries, a native of South Carolina, and great-great uncle of the late Judge John D. Humphries, built an inn12 in the space fronting White­ hall13 Road between the present Gordon and Oak Streets14 and named it Whitehall. The Whitehall Road took its name from the inn.15 A later owner stated that the lot contained fourteen acres.16 Gordon Street was at that time the road to Sandtown and Lee Street the road to Newnan. The road to Decatur branched from Gordon to the present Park Street, and followed the route of the present Peters Street.17 In 1848 the present Whitehall Street was extended and be­ came the main highway.18 What ivas the exact location of the building? Probably in the space bounded by Oak, Lee, Whitehall, and Poole Place. This view is supported by Mrs. McWhorter Milner, who quotes her grandfather, George W. Adair;18 by Walter G. Cooper, who bases his account on Judge Humph­ ries and Jeremiah Gilbert;20 by Dr. Thomas D. Longino; and by Mrs. Annie Stewart Culberson. Dr. Longino was born in 1846; fought in Wheeler's cav­ alry; resided in Palmetto fifteen years, being Mayor twice, and lived in West End 1886-1929, holding the offices of Mayor of West End, and Councilman and Alderman of

10. Ibid. p. 12 (History of Atlanta and Its Pioneers). 11. Cooper, p. 57. 12. Judge Humphries, quoted by Cooper in Official History of Ful­ ton County, Atlanta, 1934, p. 49. 13. Records of clerk of court, quoted by Judge Humphries in above reference. 14. Cooper, p. 46. 15. Judge Humphries, quoted by Cooper, p. 49. 16. Letter, Julia Ozburn Goodrum to Wilbur Kurtz, '3G, Atlanta Hist. Soc. 17. J. Gilbert, quoted by Wilbur Kurtz, All. Hist. Bulletin Apr. 1931. 18. Atlanta City Council, Nov. 6, 1848, Proceedings. 19. Mentioned later in this sketch. 20. Cooper, p. 46. Zachary St., prolonged, became Poole Plan-. HISTORY OF WEST END 67

Atlanta. He states that while he did not see the inn, he knew from others that it was on Lee between Poole Place and Oak.21 Mrs. Culberson's view is given in her history of West End 1867-1893, a manuscript in the possession of her brother, Mr. Tom Stewart. In 1867 her father, F. S. Stewart, later Mayor, was living on a farm two miles from West End, and she was teaching in the Gilbert Schoolhouse near the Sand­ town Road. She says: "Coming back on Railroad Street," (coming south from the G. W. Adair place) "there was a house in which Mr. Walt Smith lived. It was built on the site where at one time the Whitehall Inn stood, which was famous long before the Civil War; it being on an old Indian trail; where the Cherokees used to travel, where the intrepid white man pushed his trade; and the hardy back woodsmen were accustomed to take lodging at night. On the back of the lot, where the Methodist parsonage is at present was the family burying ground for the Humphries dead; I do not know if they were the settlers of the place." This ties in with Judge Humphries' statement22 that Char­ ner Humphries was buried under a willow tree in the middle of the Lee-Oak-Poole Place-Whitehall block. Dr. Longino adds that when West View was opened, the owners of the lot offered to donate it to the Park Street Church if the graves were moved;23 and so the lot for the Methodist Parsonage, No. 556 Lee Street,24 still owned by the Church, was secured. A description of the Inn, given in The History of Atlanta and Its Pioneers, Pioneer Citizens, Inc., 1902,25 states that it was a "Number of shanties, huddled together, painted white, the only painted house in the country, hence it was dubbed 'Whitehall'. It was a famous stopping place for trav­ elers and headquarters for the general muster" of the Militia.

21. Conversation, Decatur, 1946. 22. Cooper, p. 49. 23. Conversation, 1946. 24. S. A. Moreland, Secretary Park St. Church, 1946. 25. Page 12. 68 THE ATLANTA HISTORICAL BULLETIN

Another description was given by Jeremiah Gilbert;-11 "The Inn was a two-story house set a little way back from the front fence. It was a paling fence . . . "Between the Inn and the front fence, near the fence, was the Well so located that a man could draw up a bucket of water from either side of the fence. "On the outside was a trough into which water drawn from the well was poured to the horses . . ." He described the conditions his father, Dr. William Gil­ bert, faced: "There were very few buggies or wagons in those days and for hauling we used slides made very much like a sleigh or sled, with side runners bent up in front, and held together with cross pieces. A singletree was fastened in front and a horse hitched to it dragged the slide on the ground with a load on it. "One day we saw a woman coming toward the house in the lane.2" She was on foot and the horse drew a slide on which her husband lay. His foot had been cut and she was bringing him to Father for treat­ ment."28 He stated in another interview (1931) that the inn had four large rooms upstairs and down, with wide halls sepa­ rating them; that there was a gable roof; and that delicious food was prepared in a kitchen separated from the house. He said that there were a few large trees in the yard and across the road was Charner's store, a shed or shack with "the usual run of goods.""" Mrs. W. P. Boardman, life-long resident of West End, whose father, Rev. R. H. Waters, and her mother, lived in Clarkesville, Jonesboro, and West End, where he helped to secure the prohibition amendment, states that Mrs. Waterfl described the inn as a two-story frame building with a big porch across the front, substantial but not luxurious. " Two pictures of the inn have been made; one drawn in Cooper's history," based on the descriptions of Judge

26. Quoted by Cooper, page 47. 27. His father's. 28. Cooper, p. 46. 29. With Wilbur Kurtz, Atlanta Historical Bulletin, No. 5, April 1931. 30. Conversation, July, 1946. 81. p. 48. HISTORY OF WEST END 69

Humphries and Jeremiah Gilbert—two-story, substantial, with porch in front—the other a painting by Wilbur Kurtz, now in the First National Bank (?) showing a larger, much more luxurious house with wide porches, both upstairs and down—a typical Southern mansion. Whatever may have been the exact type of the inn, the event of the day was the arrival of the mail coach from New­ nan or Lawrenceville, which changed horses here, leaving passengers and mail bags.32 Dr. Joshua Gilbert, brother of Dr. William Gilbert, also married a daughter of Charner Humphries. Before leaving the settlement to visit his country patients, he always blew a whistle.33 On days of the militia muster, companies of men from each district of the county met for drill and for practice in marksmanship. Drinking followed. The date of the building of the inn, around which a settle­ ment grew, can be calculated from postal records. As these show that Charner Humphries was appointed Post Master of Whitehall, June 9, 1835, he must have been established here by that time. His salary for 1838 was $10.51. Samuel Lovejoy was appointed Post Master July 19, 1839, and re­ ceived $4.54, with net proceeds of $8.89. The office was dis­ continued October 14, 1840.34 May we surmise from this, that the inn decreased in importance, as Terminus, Marthas­ ville, and Atlanta developed? The growth of Terminus was due, of course, to the build­ ing of the railroad. An account of the coming of the first train is given by Mrs. Felton in her "Memoirs of Georgia Politics."35 "The Georgia Railroad was in process of construction for a num­ ber of years. Some of the civil engineers of that undertaking were frequent sojourners in my father's house. They were cultured gentle­ men and interesting to me because they were kind and obliging to the little girl in the way of highly prized books and pictures.

32. Atlanta Historical Bulletin No. 5, April 1931. 33. Cooper, p. 49. 34. Original longhand History Record of Post Office Department, Vol. 10, Post Office Department, Washington. 35. Atlanta, 1911. 70 THE ATLANTA HISTORICAL BULLETIN

"When the Western and Atlantic Railroad was almost ready to use a train, the engine was brought from Camak, the then terminus of the Georgia Railroad, over the dirt road—also one freight car and a small passenger coach. It required 20 mules to pull the engine. The dirt road, as before mentioned, ran by our house and I remember well the excitement which prevailed when this scanty equipment of the State Railroad halted near our house, and I was allowed to walk through the passenger car and carefully survey the others from the outside. They were all tiny affairs compared to the railroad engines and cars of today, but the show was equal to a circus for drawing a crowd. "After the three indispensables were conveyed to Marthasville, the authorities decided to have an excursion to Marietta, with a ban­ quet and dance at Kilby's Hotel. My delight was boundless when I found I was to accompany my parents, as invited guests of the gcn- erous-hearted civil engineer corps, and the whole affair was photo­ graphed in my memory, never to be dimmed or erased. "With a new dress for the occasion, the pleasure that came to me was unalloyed. The excursion trip was only 20 miles long, but it occu­ pied a considerable part of a cold winter's afternoon and many dis­ tinguished Georgians were on hand to inaugurate the opening of the wonderful line of Railroad—to be owned and operated by the State of Georgia and which was then the most momentous public improvement known to a Southern state." People soon moved close to Whitehall, who became promi­ nent in the life of Atlanta. One of these was George W. Adair. He had grown up in DeKalb County, and had been admitted to the bar. In order to repay the money he had borrowed for his education, he had worked as conductor on the Georgia Railroad, and had been in charge of the first train that had entered Atlanta in 1845.:1,; He moved to the Whitehall Community in 1854,:,; and in 1860 established with J. Henly Smith the "Southern Confederacy," a daily newspaper. During the last year of the war, he was an aide to General N. B. Forrest.38 While bis house at Park and Peters was, strictly speaking, outside the later limits of Wesl End, he and his family had a large part in its life. Not far from the Adair home, "Cousin" John Thrasher,

86. Story of Georgia, Walter G. Cooper, Vol. 4, p. 190. 37. Mrs. George Adair, Sr., 1945. 38. The Story of Georgia, Walter G. Cooper, New York, L988, Vol 1, p- 190. HISTORY OF WEST END 71 as he was called, built a large, beautiful house in 1858.39 J. Henly Smith lived on what is now Sells Avenue.40 The Whitehall community shared Atlanta's war experi­ ences. In 1863 two lines of embankments were built parallel to Lee Street.41 Later others were built parallel to these,41 and still others on Cascade Road.42 When the battle of Peachtree Creek on the north and the battle of Atlanta on the east had been fought, Sherman concentrated troops on the west of the city. This threatened Lick Skillet, now Gor­ don Road, and General Hood sent General Stephen D. Lee and General A. P. Stewart to protect it.43 Their soldiers passed through the gap in the embankments at the corner of Lee and Gordon as they marched to position. On July 28 they made a brave but futile attack upon the large Federal force near Battle Hill—an engagement known as the battle of Ezra Church.44 The Whitehall settlement was thus close to the battle; the Glover home, a large two-story house on Gordon Street at Gordon Place, was used as a hospital.45 It is significant that on the United States Government maps of this battle the name "Whitehall" does not appear.46 The importance of the settlement as a junction had probably decreased as Atlanta had grown, and those who used to spend the night at Charner Humphries' inn, now probably traveled two miles farther to Atlanta. The Battle of Ezra Church was followed by an unsuccess­ ful attack by the Confederates on Jonesboro. Hood was forced to evacuate.47 As his forces blew up the stores of

39. Georgia Homes and Landowners, Annie Hornady Howard. 40. Mrs. Robt. N. Hughs. 41. Wilbur Kurtz, "Whitehall Street Secured Its Name from Old Tavern," Atlanta Constitution, September 26, 1937. 42. Wilbur Kurtz, "Atlanta In The Summer of 1864, Inn Dixie, 1936. 43. General Hood's Official Report, quoted by Cooper, page 155. 44. Wilbur Kurtz, "Atlanta In The Summer of 1864, Inn Dixie, 1936. 45. This home was later the home of B. J. Wilson, Manuscript of Mrs. Annie Stewart Culberson, owned by Mr. Tom Stewart. 46. Atlas to Accompany the Official Records of the Union and Con­ federate Armies, compiled by Capt. Calvin D. Cowles; Plates 56, 57, 59, 60, 61, 62, 88. 47. Cooper, p. 158. 72 THE ATLANTA HISTORICAL BULLETIN ammunition and the locomotives in the roundhouses upon their departure on the night of September 1, the horrors of that inferno43 could be clearly seen and heard at Whitehall. Then came Sherman's order49 September 7, removing the citizens. l ) , Before the residents left—it must have been during the ten-day truce that followed Sherman's removal order of September 7, a Federal orderly appeared at the home of George W. Adair and asked for milk "for a sick lady." In the home were Mrs. Adair, her small children, and two widows of Confederate soldiers, Mrs. Rebecca S. Welch and her sister, protected by faithful slaves. Mrs. Adair, who still had possession of two cows, sent the milk, doubting, however, the validity of the message. When the request was repeated the next day, she drove into the Federal lines and found that there really was a sick lady, the wife of General Le Due, who had come from Ohio to visit her husband. Mrs. Adair took her to her home and cared for her. In gratitude to the little family, General Le Due sponsored concerts by Mrs. Welch, who was penniless, and whom he had discovered to be a brilliant pianist. The tickets and handbills were run off on Federal presses, the hall was the Athenaeum, and the audience were Federal soldiers. $2,700 was netted. During this same period, the sister of Mrs. Welch died, and at the funeral, in the absence of a minister, General Le Due read the Masonic burial service. He carried the infant Forrest Adair in his arms when the family were forced to leave Atlanta and assisted them on their journey to Rough and Ready.00 Charner Humphries had died in 1855. Many have believed that the Inn was taken down and that the timbers were used in building a house on Oak Street that is still standing, No.

48. C. W. Hubner in Cooper, p. 176. 49. Sherman's order, Cooper p. 178. 50. Clipping in scrapbook of Mrs. McWhorter Milner, Atlanta His­ torical Society. HISTORY OF WEST END 73

830.51 However, Mrs. Julia Ozburn Goodrum, whose father purchased the place after Charner Humphries' death, states in a letter written to Mr. Wilbur Kurtz, that it was not taken down, but was burned during the war. When Sherman ad­ vanced toward Atlanta, her father came home from the army to move his wife and children from their home in Atlanta to the old Whitehall Inn for safety. At that time only the first floor was tenable. As Sherman came nearer, the family was forced to flee, and refugeed to Pike County. Upon returning at the close cf the war, they found it burned to the ground. Whether Sherman's army or scalawags had set it afire, her mother never knew, but she told her daugh­ ter that it had been burned.52 As for the house at 830 Oak Street, Mrs. Culberson says: "Now I come to the last house on the street [Lee], the one with the most moving history, which was built by Dr. Griffin 10 miles out in the country, and I think that it was moved directly after the Civil War, or it may have been before that, to West End on the South left- hand corner of Lee and Oak Streets. Dr. Pettus lived there when I first knew it; then Mr. Pendleton and others. Some years later it was bought by Mrs. Stewart, the mother of Andrew P. Stewart, who is now in the Tax Collector's Office of Fulton County, and moved to a lot on Oak Street, where it was remodeled and made to do service with its side facing the street."53 To return to the chronological narrative, which we left at Sherman's removal order September 7,1864, we find Atlanta occupied by Federal forces from that time until November, 1864.54 Before they left, they burned the majority of the houses and buildings. The curtain falls here until after Lee's surrender, April, 1865. Soon after the surrender, George Adair returned to re­ build his home which had been burned and to take up his

51. (a) Jeremiah Gilbert, quoted by Kurtz in letter to Mrs. Good- rum July 27, 1936, Atlanta Historical Society, (b) Mrs. Robert Hughs, graduate of West End Academy, daughter of Burgess Smith, grand­ daughter of J. Henly Smith, (c) R. H. Caldwell, member. 52. Letter of Julia Osborn Goodrum to Wilbur Kurtz, ca. 1936, At­ lanta Historical Society. 53. Manuscript of Mrs. Annie Stewart Culberson, owned by Mr. Tom Stewart. 54. Cooper, p. 181, 2. 74 THE ATLANTA HISTORICAL BULLETIN business.55 J. Henly Smith in association with Alexander H. Stephens, established "The Atlanta Daily Sun." This paper prosecuted corruption in politics and opposed the nomina­ tion of Horace Greeley by the Democratic party. It was short-lived, merging with the Constitution.56 The arrival of another resident, Robert Hugh Caldwell, is described by his son, R. H. Caldwell:57 "R. H. Caldwell landed there the first year of the surrender. He was in Joe Wheeler's Cavalry and was on his way back home from near Savannah, Ga., when Lee surrendered. He was riding a very bony horse and when he got to Jonesboro, Ga., on his way to Atlanta, he found two Yankee officers drinking in a bar-room, and he noticed they had two fine horses, so he traded horses with one of them, by putting his saddle and bridle on one of the horses and riding off. "He got to Atlanta, tied the horse to an apple tree, heated a shovel red hot, and burned the brand, viz. U. S. A., off the horse. The horse pulled that tree up by the roots. "He then rigged up an old wagon and went into the business of hauling. His first job was taking 16 Yankee soldiers to Marietta for a dollar each, because the railroad had been destroyed. He got within a mile of Marietta when his wagon broke down. The Yankee soldiers said to him, 'Well Johnnie, you have done the best you could, we will walk from here,' and paid him $16.00, all in one-dollar gold pieces. His granddaughter, Mildred Webb, has all of those gold pieces yet." "Later Mr. Caldwell traded the horse for a lot on Gordon St., and operated a store on it for thirty years; and the Caldwell family owns the lot yet, together with property on either side of it . . ." "Right after the war Atlanta took on a boom; business was brisk. Side meat sold at $1.50 per lb., corn brought $16.00 per bushel, and wages were high, especially day labor. The city placed a big license tax on bar-rooms. West Endr,s was outside the city limits and there was no license. The U. S. had built a barracks, called McPherson Barracks, back of the Adair place, and had a big bunch of soldiers in it. They had leased the land from a Mr. Tom Alexander, for twenty years; and all the houses were frame buildings. '' As it was so close to West End, trade was brisk, and at one time there were seven bar­ rooms in West End . . . "There were also two breweries, one on Lawton St., operated by an old German named Meister. I have heard him say he had not tasted water in thirty years. The other brewery was across the Cen- 55. O. B. Keeler in Atlanta Journal May 5, 1989. 56. Mrs. Robert N. Hughs, 1946. 57. Manuscript prepared for writer, 1945. 58. As it was now called. 59. Gen. Meade was in charge—Mrs. Spalding. HISTORY OF WEST END 75 tral R. R. tracks where the Government Warehouse is today, originally called the Candler Warehouse." "One time the West End Marshal locked up 16 Yankee soldiers in the town's calaboose, a one-room affair, made of heavy timber, and during the night other soldiers from the barracks came and turned the calaboose over and freed their comrades This was a good joke on the town, and citizens enjoyed teasing the marshal, Mr. Lewis Cook."60 It may have been a desire to curb the liquor trade that, caused the citizens of West End in 1868 to apply to the legis­ lature to be incorporated. The charter which was granted gave the town the right to tax liquor dealers. It also au­ thorized the election of an intendant and three councilmen.61 Two years later the census gives West End a population of 621—300 of whom were negroes.62 The limits were Greens­ ferry on the North, Holderness on the West, White on the South and, in general, the Central of Georgia Railroad on the East. Some territory east of the railroad was included. At the 1878-79 session of the legislature, West End se­ cured for her charter an amendment which forbade the man­ ufacture and sale of intoxicating beverages.63 To quote Caldwell again: "The town immediately began to grow. Evan P. Howell moved to West End soon after that, Joel C. Harris, Col. A. B. Mathews, Ben J. Wilson, W. C. Heywood, John D. Cunningham, A. B. Culberson—just to mention a few of them: also Anthony Murphy, Luther Rosser, T. H. Blacknall." There is a record of a West End Academy64 established in 1866, but its location is given as being near Payne's Chapel, and that was at the corner of Hunnicutt and Luckie—not in West End.05 The record also states that it ceased to exist about the time that public schools were opened in Atlanta—

60. Corroborated by Mrs. Boardman, mentioned above. A similar jail delivery in Atlanta is described by Annie Laurie Fuller Kurtz, Atlanta Journal Magazine, February 11, 1934. 61. Acts of the General Assy, of Georgia, Passed at the Called Ses­ sion July 4-Oct. 6, 1868. 62. U. S. Census 1870. 63. Acts of General Assy. Session 1878-79, pages 384-5. 64. Atlanta Constitution Jan. 16, 1869 and T. H. Martin, Atlanta and Its Builders, Vol. 2, p. 259. 76 THE ATLANTA HISTORICAL BULLETIN another fact that places it in Atlanta and not in West End.64 The first school in West End of which we have a record was taught by General James Porterfield Graves, C.S.A., father of John Temple Graves.65 on what is now Ashby Street, shortly after the war. The house has been remodeled but it standing yet.66 The next record is of a private school taught by Dr. Alex­ ander Brevard Brumby, Captain in Wheeler's Cavalry. Mr. Burgess Smith in an article entitled "Early History"07 tells us that the community erected a school building on the southwest corner of Peeples and Oak Streets and that "Dr. Brumby's private institution was moved to this new struc­ ture." He writes "Dr. Brumby was an accomplished teacher, one of the most distinguished masters of the Classics in the country . . . "Colonel Mark Johnston was Dr. Brumby's successor. He was a man of rare culture and scholarly attainments. Colonel Johnston's favorite authors were Herodotus, Thucydides, Homer, Virgil, Horace— whose writings he read in their original form with the same facility with which he read Macaulay, Tennyson, Scott . . . Colonel Johnston was the father of Richard Malcolm Johnston,68 for many years a resident of West End." At the same time a school for West End's neighbors, the children of the McPherson Barracks on Ella Street, was taught voluntarily for three months in 1883 by Mr. A. P. Turner and Miss Linnie Pierce. It was in the territory of the Trinity Church Home Mission, of which Miss Laura Haygood was director, and was planned for the children who were not sufficiently interested in attending the pub­ lic schools.60 Primary schools were taught in West End during the 80's

65. Atlanta and Its Builders, Martin, Vol. 2, p. 535. 66. Cothran Graves. 67. Mrs. Robert N. Hughs' Scrapbook. 68. Author of Dukesborough Tales, Life of A. II. Stephens, etc. 69. Life and Letters of Latira Askew Haygood, O. E. and Anna Muse Brown. HISTORY OF WEST END 77 by Misses Katie Heath70 and Miss Effie Stewart.71 Returning to Colonel Johnston's school, we find that a larger building was needed, and for that purpose a number of young fathers purchased a block bounded by Lee, Dunn, Gordon and Zachary from John H. Mecaslin for $4,000. They auctioned off half for $10,000, using the difference to erect the West End Academy.72 Many remember the gray frame structure which remained into the twentieth century as the "Lee Street School." A high board fence separated the boys' and girls' yards." Tuition was ten dollars a year.73 The first principal was W. W. Lambdin, with Miss Martha Brinkley, Miss Janie Wood, and Miss Mamie Wood as assistants. The first trus­ tees were T. H. Blacknall, A. B. Culberson, W. A. Culver, Joel Chandler Harris, W. G. McGaughey, A. P. Morgan, G. A. Howell, Burgess Smith and W. L. Stanton. Other principals were A. J. M. Bizien, T. A. E. Means and E. C. Merry.74 A list of the graduates is appended to this essay. Quoting again from Caldwell: "Among those who attended West End Academy, only to mention a few—Miss Annie Adair, who married W. E. Foster, Sallie Adair who married Mr. Venable, George Adair, Jr., Harry S. Snooks, Leon­ ard James—son of John H. James, W. E. Banker, Paul Goldsmith, Joe and Henry Goldsmith, Wallace Eddleman, Will Lowe, and his beautiful sister Miss Rebie Lowe. They lived on Peters Street and Rebie used to ride a pretty red and white pony to school and all the boys fell in love with her." Let us glance at some of the citizens. At the opposite end of Lee Street from Colonel Adair was Anthony Murphy, also outside the boundary lines, who had taken part in the chase of Andrews and the Federal Raiders who stole a train near Marietta. He had had much to do with the Atlanta Water Works and the Atlanta Public School System.75

70. Miss Brumby, 1946. 71. Julia LaRose Harris, 1946. 72. "Early History." 73. Miss Alice Megee, Decatur, 1945. 74. Atlanta and Its Builders, Martin, Vol. 2, p. 263. 75. History of Atlanta and Its Pioneers, p. 303. 78 THE ATLANTA HISTORICAL BULLETIN

Down Gordon Street several blocks was Joel Chandler Harris, whose house stood in the center of a five-acre lot previously called the "Broomhead property," that sloped toward the street and a spring beyond.76 In 1867 Elliott Hunter Muse had lived there, then others before Mr. Har­ ris.76 At 8:30 every morning Mr. Harris boarded the mule car for the Constitution office. He was very friendly with the drivers, "Grandpa" Bennett, "Dutch" Reynolds, and "Bill" Plunkett. He often took the reins at noon while they ate their lunch, and when he reached the end of the line even took out the mules, uncoupled the linch-pen, and coupled up again at the other end of the car. After an hour's rest he returned to the Constitution office.71' West End honored him for his great work in preserving folk literature, for his fiction, and for his poems. The last named were favorites of James Whitcomb Riley, who came to see him every summer. Carnegie also came. Theodore Roosevelt came, and invited Harris and his son Julian to visit him at the White House. After Harris's death, Roose­ velt lectured at the Atlanta Auditorium for the benefit of the Uncle Remus Memorial Association.77 On West End Avenue lived Governor James Smith, diago­ nally opposite Dr. Connally's house.73 And on Peeples near Beecher was John L. Conley, son of Governor Benjamin Conley.70 This was "Old Conley Place" which was kept by the family far into the twentieth century/" One of Atlanta's early mayors moved out to West End. This was Jonathan Norcross,81 who had won a well deserved reputation by defeating an attack by the Rowdy Party in the 1850's.82

76. Julia Collier Harris, Life and Letters of Joel Chandler Harris. Houghton-Mifflin, 1918. 2-a. Dr. Lewis .Muse, 1946. 77. Mrs. Julia Collier Harris, conversation, 1945. 78. "Early History" clipping by Burgess Smith in Mrs. Hughs' Scrapbook. 79. Mrs. Culberson's Manuscript. 80. The writer. 81. Mrs. John Spalding. 82. Cooper, p. 66, Official History Fulton County. HISTORY OF WEST END 79

A later Mayor of Atlanta was Evan P. Howell, captain of a battery during the Civil War,83 who lived in a home with a beautiful lawn near the center of West End,84 a lawn which later became Howell Park. The lawn was brilliantly lighted with steam engine head­ lights for the Howells' twenty-fifth anniversary. Among the visitors at the home were Henry Grady, who came con­ stantly, General Winfield Scott Hancock, when he sought a new location for McPherson Barracks, and Adlai E. Ste­ venson, Vice-President in Cleveland's administration. Howell was Mayor of Atlanta in 1903-04,85 a number of years after the annexation of West End. Prominent in poli­ tics, his reputation rests even more upon his editorship of the Atlanta Constitution, especially during the time when Henry Grady was associated with him. Another Mayor of Atlanta was Judge Dennis F. Ham-- mond, for whom Hammond Street was named. After leav­ ing West End, he was elected Mayor of Atlanta.87 Among the Councilmen of the town of West End were R. H. Caldwell88 M. Taylor, W. C. Lee, Will Wilson, and Burgess Smith.89 j Among the Mayors of West End were G. A. Howell,92 Hubert Culberson, J. W. Nelms/Dr. Thomas D. Longino,89 A. B. Culberson, F. S. Stewart.90 Hubert Culberson was treasurer of Fulton County, and J. W. Nelms was sheriff. Stewart, the second Mayor, was elected on a Prohibition ticket, defeating Judge Dennis F. Hammond.91 A famous place was "The Homestead," already mentioned. After "Cousin" John Thrasher, Dr. Holmes Sells, Miles Dob-

83. Cooper, 842-844, Official History Fulton County. 84. Personal knowledge of the writer. 85. Miss Rosalie Howell, 1945. 86. Cooper, Official History, p. 643-442. 87. Cooper, Official History, p. 842-ff. 88. Caldwell. 89. Dr. Longino. 90. Mrs. Culberson's Manuscript. 91. Mr. Tom Stewart 1946. 80 THE ATLANTA HISTORICAL BULLETIN

bins, and Frank Gray owned it.93 In 1887 it was purchased by Dr. E. L. Connally, a surgeon in the Confederate army, who later built the Connally Building. Mrs. Connally was the daughter of Governor Brown. The house was one of the few homes Sherman left standing. His soldiers had used the library for a blacksmith shop and the woodwork for fuel.94 In the Connallys' hands it became again the beauti­ ful mansion it had been under the ownership of the earlier civilian tenants. The Connallys' golden wedding was held here. °5 Dr. Connally was one of the community's oldest residents, having lived near East Point 1845-61, and on Washington Street, 1875-1887. Col. A. B. Mathews resided in the colonial house later owned by Howard Crumley. The Dozier home at Park and Ashby boasted a stream with a bridge. "Lakewood," owned by Dr. Hiram Moseley, was the scene of house parties, as was the "Homestead."94 Frank L. Stanton, the poet, and Miss Lucy Stanton, the artist, lived in West End for a number of years.96 The spirit of the Civil War persisted in West End, as evi­ denced in the slogan of Wikle's Pharmacy, "Where Lee and Gordon Meet,"93 and two other street names, Ashby and Lawton Streets, for Confederate generals.08 The United States band at the McPherson Barracks played in the after­ noons.99 After a hard rain boys and girls could make a dol­ lar picking up minie balls and selling them to Middlebrooks' store on Peters Street. When Jefferson Davis came to Atlanta for the unveiling of the Ben Hill monument, West End veterans joined their Atlanta comrades in taking the horses from his carriage and

92. Mrs. McWhorter Milner, 1946. 93. Georgia Homes and Landmarks, Annie Hornady Howard. 94. Mrs. Spalding. 95. Georgia Homes and Landmarks. 96. The Writer. (The Poet and Artist Stanton were no relation to each other.) 97. Writer's knowledge. 98. "Early History." 99. E. Y. Clarke History of Atlanta, 1881, p. 195. HISTORY OF WEST END 81 drawing it themselves. The father of R. H. Caldwell took this opportunity to introduce his little boy to the Confeder­ ate President, who gave him a hearty "God bless you, son."100 West End people attended church in Atlanta. Then they began building their own churches.101 In 1878 F. B. Davies organized the Methodist church now known as Park Street. The services were held at Gammage's Crossing and in a church at McCall's Crossing. This was sold, and during the pastorate of H. L. Crumley a building was erected on the present site.102 Dr. James W. Lee, a later pastor, was also a writer.103 Following Mr. Crumley, in order were: A. J. Wardlaw, J. W. Lee, J. W. Roberts, J. B. Robbins, Joel T. Daves, Luke Johnson, M. L. Troutman, S. R. Belk.102

The West End Baptist Church was organized in 1887 in Dunn's Chapel, near the corner of Ashby and Oak. S. Y. Jameson was the first pastor. Meetings were held in Cald­ well Hall until the erection of the church building on Lee Street.104 The first Baptist Young People's Union in Georgia was organized here in 1895.105 Dr. John F. Purser, one of the pastors, was President of the Southern Baptist Home Mission Board. T. W. O'Kelly was pastor between the two pastorates just mentioned.104. The West End Presbyterian Church had its earliest be­ ginnings in a class that met at the home of Mrs. Howe on Lee Street in 1884. This led to a union Sunday School or­ ganized by G. B. McGaughey in the West End Academy. The Presbyterian Church was organized in 1887, and met first in Dunn's Chapel and then in a chapel built adjacent to the location of the present building, but facing Ashby. Pastors: N. B. Mathes, Griffin Bell, Lynn R. Walker, W. E. Hill.106

100. Caldwell. 101. Mrs. Spalding. 102. Cooper, p. 553 ff. History Fulton County. 103. Mrs. Spalding. 104. Cooper, p. 537ff., Fulton County. 105. Christian Index, Aug. 9, 1945. 106. R. S. Lowrance, clerk of session, 1946. 82 THE ATLANTA HISTORICAL BULLETIN

Mr. Charles M. Goodman was active in the organization of the Church of the Incarnation, for which Mrs. Mary Ballon Van Dyke gave the lot.107 It was opened for services in 1896. The following rectors served until about 1910: Revs. Wiley Jones Page, Willys Rede, H. Baldwin Dean, G. A. Ottman, Scoggin, J. J. Perry, J. L. Villalonga( ?), Deacon, W. F. Parsons, V. C. Lacey.108 The West End Christian Church at the corner of Gordon and Dunn was built after West End came into Atlanta.""' Mrs. Evan P. Howell was active in raising funds and fur­ nished the lot.109 The pastors included Bernard P. Smith and Mr. Foster.110 St. Anthony's Church had its beginning in a meeting of Catholic ladies at the home of Mrs. Joel Chandler Harris in 1902. A Sunday School was held in the Harris home with Miss Lillian Harris as teacher. This led to the establishment of St. Anthony's Church, first in a frame building, then in the present structure.111 The Parish school was built later.112 Father 0. N. Jackson was the first pastor,"1 assigned in 1903. The W. D. Luckie Lodge of Masons was organized in 1889.n3 The first Worshipful Master was A. G. Howard. Forrest Adair, Worshipful Master in 1896, became potentate of the Yaarab Temple.114 The Atlanta Theological Seminary, near the eastern lim­ its, was Congregational. The Old Ladies' Home, as it was first called, has had a long history. The land formerly belonged to the Alexanders, Broomheads, Wimpys, Harrington Kings. West End would have been content to remain an incor-

107. Mrs, Mnnague Tuttle, 1945. 108. Record Book, Church of the Incarnation. L09. Miss Rosalie Howell. 110. Writer. 111. St. Anthony's Catholic Nexvs, March, 1941. 112. Writer. 118. Cooper, p. 587, Fulton County. 114. O. B. Keeler, Atl. Journal, May 6, 1989. HISTORY OF WEST END 83 porated town, separate from Atlanta. In fact it was proud of its reputation for orderliness, of its high per cent of home owners, and of the large number of leading citizens.115 However, a fire that destroyed the homes of F. R. Bunker, Mrs. Rose Abernathy, and F. B. Richardson brought its citi­ zens to a realization of their need of a fire department and city water.116 They began to discuss annexation; classes in West End Academy debated on the subject;117 many opposed the change, fearing the possible loss of prohibition.117 In 1889 the Legislature authorized an election to determine sentiment,118 but it was not until October, 1893, that the act of annexation was finally passed.119 The City of Atlanta pledged continuance of West End's prohibition of the sale and manufacture of liquor.120 Conse­ quently, one section of the Act of 1893 provides that this shall be prohibited forever in West End and within a half- mile radius of its limits outside of Atlanta.121 The assets of West End, given in the Acts of the General Assembly, were as follows:121 Lot on Gordon Street $ 3,750.00 Impounding lot, west of school lot 2,000.00 Lot on Railway Ave., and Oak 500.00 Mules, etc. 660.00 School lot and interest in school 22,000.00

$ 28,910.00 Atlanta promised to spend as follows: Fire and school $ 44,850.00 Water 21,000.00 Bonded debt of West End, assumed in paving streets 52,000.00

$117,850.00

115. Mrs. Spalding. 116. Caldwell. 117. Mrs. Spalding. -, 118. Acts of Assem. 1889, p. 813. 119. Acts of Assem., 1893. 120. Caldwell. 121. Acts of the General Assem., 1893. 84 THE ATLANTA HISTORICAL BULLETIN

The report of the Comptroller of Atlanta for 1895 shows that Atlanta's bonded debt at this time was $2,932,833.00,122 so the West End debt seems but a small part of it, especially as the West End citizens were now to pay on Atlanta's pre­ viously assumed debt. January 1, 1894, the incorporated town of West End passed out of existence.121 One of the last acts of the West End Council was to change the name of Porter Street, which they found would be a duplicate of one of the Atlanta street names, to Lucile Avenue. This was in honor of Miss Lucile Smith, daughter of Mr. Burgess Smith,123 later Mrs. Robert N. Hughs. The population must have been around 2,000, since in 1885 it had been about 1,050,124 and in 1900, as seventh ward, it was 2,464.125 During the next sixteen years West End was gradually losing its rural atmosphere and informality. In the early days Annie Adair had gathered partridge eggs in her hat in her father's wheat fields;126 even after annexation Bob Whites whistled and an orchard bloomed.127 Horse car pas­ sengers waited while one of their number bought groceries at Lee and Gordon;128 or while "Tommy Edison"129 was called in to assist the horses up a hill. Even an electric car stopped and clanged its bell before high school students' homes at eight o'clock.130 But these things passed. The upper grades of West Ibid Academy gave way to Girls' High, Boys' High and Tech High; the frame structure was replaced by Lee Street and Peeples Street grammar schools. An extensive commercial center arose at Lee and Gordon. The L. & N. belt lino was

122. Annual Report of City Comptroller for 1895, Jan. 1, 1896. 123. Scrap Book of Mrs. Robert N. Hughs. 124. Atlanta Directory, 1885. 125. U. S. Census, 1900. 126. Mrs. McWhorter Milner, 1946. 127. The writer. 128. Mrs. Montague Tuttle, 1945. 129. The mule so nicknamed by the Harris hoys, according to Julian LaRosc Harris. 130. Mrs. John S. Spalding. HISTORY OF WEST END 85 built, encircling West End on the south and west.131 In 1910 the limits of the city of Atlanta were extended132 on the western side of West End from Holderness Street, West End's original boundary in her incorporation in 1868, to West View, taking in what was then known as West End Park. This addition of territory opens a new chapter in the history of West End, with many new developments. That chapter, however, is beyond the scope of this sketch. In conclusion, let us name as the distinctive characteristics of West End its homes, schools, and churches; its orderli­ ness its friendliness; its high type of citizenry. The impor­ tance of the contribution made by its men and women to the growth of Atlanta will be seen by a glance at the following lists of a few of its residents.

131. L. and N. office. 132. Map in the office of R. A. Torras, city engineer. 86 THE ATLANTA HISTORICAL BULLETIN

CLASSIFIED LIST A FEW OF THE RESIDENTS TOWARD THE CLOSE OF THE PERIOD COVERED BY THIS SKETCH (Each, of the persons on this classified list had lived in West End prior to 1910, and had attained some prominence at least by that date. Except in a few cases, those already mentioned are not repeated.)1

GOVERNMENT In addition to two governors of Georgia, two mayors of Atlanta, and the mayors and councilmen of West End al­ ready mentioned, note the following: Government of the City of Atlanta, 1894-1910 Mayor: Evan P. Howell. Board of Education: Burgess Smith, Dr. E. L. Connally, L. Z. Rosser, President. Tax Collector: Andy Stewart. Chief of Police: James L. Beavers. Chief of Sanitary Department: John Jentzen. Aldermen, Seventh Ward: Albert Howell, J. W. Kilpat- rick, T. D. Longino, J. N. McEachern, W. A. Hancock. Councilmen, Seventh Ward: J. W. Nelms, H. L. Culber­ son, J. S. Dozier, J. W. Pope, T. D. Longino, Malvern Hill, E. P. Howell, Burgess Smith, J. M. Smith, E. V. Carter, C. A. Wikle, W. A. Hancock, F. J. Spratling, Craig Cofield, H. W. Dent.

BUSINESS AND PROFESSIONAL LIFE Merchants of Downtoxon Atlanta: J. P. Allen, T. L. Stokes, J. C. Daniel, F. S. Stewart, George E. Knott, W. H. Brittain, R. E. O'Donnelly, J. D. Frazier, Tully Brooke. Manufacturers: John M. Smith, John E. Smith, James J. Donnelly, R. H. White, John S. Spalding, W. C. Meredith. Lnmlier: A. R. Colcord, W. B. Disbro, D. J. Ray, E. M. Willingham, W. B. Willingham. Real Estate: G. W. Adair, Forrest Adair, George Adair, John J. Woodside, G. J. Dallas, A. W. Fickell, W. A. Foster, J. Henly Smith, J. R. Smith.

Compiled from directories and the persons mentioned a: authori­ ties in previous notes. HISTORY OF WEST END 87

Insurance: G. A. Howell, Sr., G. A. Howell, Jr., Robert N. Hughs, I. M. Sheffield; J. N. McEachern, James T. Dar- gan, Craig Cofield, R. H. Dobbs, W. R. Hoyt, R. L. Foreman, Lucien Harris, Oscar Venable, D. I. Mclntyre. Southern School-Book Depository: Burgess Smith. Railway: E. 0. Pritchard, Harry T. Moore. Neivspapers: John Paschal, Clarke Howell, Edwin Camp, Julian LaRose Harris, Morton Smith, Ralph Smith, Charles Donnelly, Evelyn Harris, Walter G. Cooper. Lawyers: L. Z. Rosser, E. V. Carter, Willis M. Everett. Business of Various Lines: Dr. E. L. Connally, E. M. Hudson, M. M. Davies, St. Elmo Massengale, J. C. Gentry, T. H. Stewart, W. E. Stewart, McWhorter Milner, N. T. Pool, Joe W. Little, W. E. Mansfield. Secretary Chamber of Commerce: Walter G. Cooper. Doctors: T. D. Longino, E. L. Connally, M. G. Campbell, W. A. Crowe, J. C. White, W. J. Bell. Missionaries: Lucille Daniel (Mrs. W. Harvey Clarke), Dr. and Mrs. Albert Dunstan. Preachers in addition to pastors listed: Virgil Norcross, W. P. Binns. School: W. H. Emerson, W. F. Dykes. Literature: Joel Chandler Harris, Richard Malcolm John­ ston, Frank L. Stanton, Julian LaRose Harris, Madge Big­ ham, Mrs. Julia Collier Harris. History: Walter G. Cooper. Art: Miss Lucy Stanton. Drama: Miss Nan Stephens. Music: John P. O'Donnelly, Miss Nana Tucker, Miss Fan­ nie Mae Burks. Leaders in other lines: Capt. Joseph Brown Connally, Harvie Jordan, Jerome Jones, Jesse Armistead.

PARTIAL LIST OF EARLY RESIDENTS (Not mentioned previously. Compiled from Burgess Smith, Mrs. Culberson, and others.) Willis E. Venable, Judge Samuel Hoyt, Dr. Sid Holland, A. K. Seago, B. H. Broomhead, Thomas Alexander, B. J. 88 THE ATLANTA HISTORICAL BULLETIN

Wilson, John N. Dunn, Andrew P. Stewart, Dr. David Smith, Benjamin F. Abbott, B. Y. Sage, Judge Andrew J. Cobb, C. T. Ladson, Samuel B. Wight, Judge John C. Reed, Milton Smith, Thomas J. James, Otis Wellborn, Dr. J. M. Alexander, Clark Howell, Albert Howell, J. W. Rollo, Geo. W. Howard, Clifford L. Anderson, Lewis Muse, 0. I. Cul­ berson, Judge Wight, Capt. Camp, Edwin Baugh, Mrs. Leigh, First Postmistress, Rush Irwin, C. J. Kicklighter. A FEW OF THE RESIDENTS TOWARD THE CLOSE OF THE PERIOD COVERED BY THIS SKETCH (Based on a reliable contemporary list, alphabetically arranged.) A Roy M. Abernathy, Mrs. G. W. Adair, S. R. C. Adams, W. B. Alexander, Wm. D. Alexander, W. D. Alexander, W. R. Allard, D. C. Allen, J. P. Allen, W. W. Almand, J. L. Alsabrook, E. R. Anderson, Marcellus M. Anderson, W. P. Anderson, Mrs. Mary C. Andrews, W. G. Archer, J. W. Ar­ mistead, J. M. Arnold, V. E. Arnold.

B H. S. Baisden, Frank B. Baker, Jno. W. Baker, Mrs. Chas. D. Barker, J. J. Barnes, Jr., J. B. Barton, Jno. C. Battle, J. Myrick Beasley, A. W. Beauprie, Jas. L. Beavers, F. D. Beck, C. D. Beeland, Miss Allie Belanger, J. L. Bellamy, J. B. Benson, John Berkele, R. J. Berkner, Mrs. H. R. Berry, Will Berry, J. C. Bertsch, Miss Madge Bigham, E. G. Black, C. J. Bloodworth, R. E. Boggs, Mrs. W. H. Bone, W. K. Booth, C. S. Bowen, Fred Boyd, G. H. Brandon, W. L. Brid­ well, W. H. Brittain, Tully J. Brooke, Mrs. Jno. Broomhead, H. L. Brower, Mrs. Martha L. Brown, Stella Bryant, Mrs. Stella Buffington, J. M. Burchel, Mrs. J. F. Burk, E. S. Butler, W. A. Byers. C Kennon Caldwell, John Caldwell, R. H. Caldwell, Sr. and Jr., E. G. Callaway, I. T. Callaway, Edwin Camp, Dr. G. E. Camp, S. C. Campbell, J. A. Campbell, Dr. M. G. Campbell, Mrs. S. A. Campbell, W. L. Campbell, C. F. Cantrell, James Allen Carlisle, J. Carlisle, E. V. Carter, G. W. Cate, J. Frank (ales, C. C. Chaffee, Mrs. J. 0. Chambers, L. F. Chapman, HISTORY OF WEST END 89

W. H. Clowe, Miss True Cochran, W. B. Cochran, Craig Cofield, A. R. Colcord, Geo. H. Cole, Benj. Conley, Dr. E. L. Connally, Jos. Brown Connally, Mrs. R. T. Connally, Walter G. Cooper, Mrs. C. F. Copelin, Geo. W. Corley, Frank S. Cox, Arch Cribbs, Mrs. J. P. Crichton, B. M. Cross, Dr. W. A. Crowe, D. A. Crumley, H. L. Crumley, H. L. Culber­ son, Mrs. W. H. Culberson. D Jno. W. Dalhouse, G. J. Dallas, S. A. Dance, Mrs. Jos. M. Daniel, W. T. Daniel, J. L. Dargan, W. J. Davenport, M. M. Davies, Misses Sarah E. and Daisy Davies, D. S. A. Davis, Dr. A. Dawson, H. Dawson, Chas. Deckner, Ira De Lamater, Wm. Dennard, Jos. L. Dennis, H. W. Dent, 0. W. Deyerle, A. J. Dickeman, Victor J. Diefenderfer, W. B. Disbro, W. C. Dobbins, R. H. Dobbs, Willis Dobbs, Jas. J. Donnelly, J. H. Drewry, M. N. Driggars, Miss Alma Driver, Ernest L. Dupree, Arthur R. Dyer. E Mrs. Marshall T. Eckford, Theo Eining, W. H. Emerson, J. W. Eskew, I. B. Eubanks, Edgar Everhart, Willis Everett. F J. B. Fallaize, Mrs. M. E. Falacy, Miss Mattie Ferguson, T. B. Ferris, A. W. Fickett, B. W. Fisk, M. P. Fleming, W. E. Flowers, L. E. Floyd, W. A. Foster, W. E. Foster, W. M. Francis, J. D. Frazier, W. B. Freeman, Mrs. H. H. Fudge, J. A. Fulton. G R. M. Gann, T. R. Gay, J. C. Gentry, Dr. C. R. Giles, Jas. L. Gillman, J. C. Gleason, J. H. Glenn, W. B. Glover, Harry C. Goldrick, C. M. Goodman, Geo. Gordon, A. S. Graves, R. F. Graves, Chas. G. Gray, P. B. Green, C. H. Gregory, E. B. Gregory, J. L. Gregory, Young A. Gresham, Dr. N. J. Griz- zard, Mrs. S. W. Guerard, Geo. W. Gunder. H R. N. Halstead, Tom Hanbury, W. A. Hancock, W. F. Hancock, J. 0. Hardwick, L. B. Hardy, Geo. W. Harlan, Joel Chandler Harris, Julian Harris, Lucien Harris, J. W. Harri- 90 THE ATLANTA HISTORICAL BULLETIN son, C. H. Hartman, W. A. Hartman, J. J. Harvil, R. L. Har­ well, Mrs. M. L. Haunson, A. L. and W. P. Heath, F. P. Heifner, C. B. Henderson, Wm. T. Henry, S. W. Herren, R. D. Hickok, M. R. Hicks, Mrs. E. A. Holbrook, Mrs. S. G. Holland, Mrs. C. S. Honour, Dr. J. W. Hooper, W. E. Hop­ kins, Va. Houchin, A. C. Howard, I. C. Howard, Mrs. M. E. Howard, G. A. Howell, G. Arthur Howell, E. M. Hudson, Robert N. Hughs, Mrs. Geo. P. Humphries, W. P. Hunter. I F. S. Irby, Mrs. E. F. Irwin. J Jas. F. Jackson, Rev. 0. N. Jackson, W. C. Jenkins, W. M. Jenkins, Tyre L. Jennings, J. Jentzen, M. A. Jester, Geo. T. Johnson, T. G. Johnson, J. J. Jones, E. E. Jones, Jerome Jones, Julian Jones, Harvie Jordan. K 0. F. Kauffman, W. G. Keen, J. P. Keeton, Alfred E. Kelly, Chas. J. Kelly, J. M. Kendrick, Pauline Kennon, R. L. Ken­ non, C. J. Kicklighter, Dr. J. Cheston King, W. M. Kirkpat­ rick, J. C. Kite, Geo. E. Knott, R. Kolb.

J. W. Lambert, J. R. Langford, Geo. R. Law, Calder B. Lawton, W. A. Leas, R. J. Lee, J. W. Leroux, A. H. Lewis, W. F. Lilly, Dr. A. H. Lindorme, Joe W. Little, J. B. Lively, J. J. Logue, Dr. T. D. Longino, Miss A. G. Love, T A. Love­ lace, W. P. Lovelace, Mrs. L. D. Lowe, E. R. Lowry, A. D. Luck, Dr. M. B. Lukens, W. A. Lyons. M J. R. Maier, Wm. E. Mansfield, A. S. Mapp, Mrs. J. H. Martin, Jno. W. Martin, St. Elmo Massengale, Mrs. Carrie E. Mathews, C. S. Mathews, E. H. Mathews, John W. Math­ ews, J. R. Maxwell, A. J. Mayfield, W. C. Meredith, A. II. Merrilla, W. M. Middlebrooks, R. 0. Middlebrooks, E. D. L. Mobley, Melvin Moncrief, Mrs. E. W. Monteith, B. F. Moon, Mrs. Ada Moore, Harry T. Moore, W. H. Moore, G. N. Mor­ ris, C. P. Murphy, E. S. Murphy, Mrs. S. P. Muse. HISTORY OF WEST END 91

Mc W. R. McClelland, F. A. McCorkle, L. H. McDaniels, J. W. McDonald, J. N. McEachern, I. F. McGahee, Mrs. Geo. B. McGaughey, Mrs. R. W. McGinley, A. C. McHan, D. I. Mc- Intyre, Miss Olyene McKenny, Mrs. J. E. McKinnon, J. F. McMahon, F. D. McMillan, Mrs. H. McMillen.

N J. W. Nelms, D. L. Nichols, J. D. Nipper, E. C. Nisbit, Edwin M. Nix, V. C. Norcross, A. P. Norman, C. R. Nor­ mandy, E. B. Norris. 0 R. E. O'Donnelly, H. M. Orchard, R. F. O'Shields, W. E. Oslin.

R. T. Pace, W. J. Pace, Chas. F. Parish, R. J. Park, Rev. 1.1. P. Perry, E. R. Phillips, L. S. Phillips, Miss Mollie Phil­ lips, W. R. Phillips, Geo. M. Pickett, B. F. Pirn, J. H. Pitman, Mrs. Ada Piatt, N. T. Pool, Mrs. A. S. Poole, W. F. Poole, W. M. Poole, G. A. Potter, Mrs. J. T. Prince, R. T. Prior, E. 0. Pritchard, J. F. Purser. R G. W. Ramey, M. A. Ramsey, W. B. Ramsey, D. J. Ray, R. G. Ray, Mrs. Eliza Reynolds, Mrs. Mattie Reynolds, Carl Richards, T. A. Richardson, Mrs. M. L. Roberts, C. E. Rob­ ertson, Mrs. W. F. Robinson, Mrs. Caroline Rogers, J. W. Rollo, L. Z. Rosser, S. Z. Ruff, J. W. Russell. S Henry D. Sanders, W. B. Sassnett, Chas. F. Scarratt, J. F. Schanno, G. W. Seay, W. F. Seay, J. S. Sewell, John C. Shannon, Jno. M. Shannon, Looney Shaw, I. M. Sheffield, G. 0. Sherrer, G. R. Shockley, S. W. Silsbee, J. W. Simon- ton, John J. Simpson, Miss Hattie Sims, Mrs. J. R. Singer, L. M. Sisemore, D. A. Small, Bernard P. Smith, Burgess Smith, Dr. David B. Smith, John E. Smith, Jos. 0. Smith, John M. Smith, J. R. Smith, L. M. Smith, Mrs. Martha E. 92 THE ATLANTA HISTORICAL BULLETIN

Smith, Morton Smith, Rev. S. T. Smith, P. M. Smoak, J. P. Snelgrove, E. A. Speer, F. J. Spratling, W. M. Spratling, J. P. Spurlin, Frank L. Stanton, J. M. Stephens, Frederick W. Stevens, W. A. Stevens, F. S. Stewart, Sr. and Jr., George Wilson Stewart, T. H. Stewart, W. A. Stewart, W. B. Stew­ art, T. L. Stokes, Lee Stringer, E. G. Sutton.

C. A. Taylor, J. J. Taylor, J. W. Taylor, B. F. Teague, F. C. Thayer, D. McL. Therrell, Dr. Elzie B. Thomas, Jno. J. Thomason, L. Thornton, Mrs. W. R. Tidwell, Chas. D. Tillman, Mrs. J. W. Timms, L. C. Tipton, R. Emmet Triggs, W. A. Trotter, Rev. M. L. Troutman, R. H. Troy, R. M. Truax, Miss Florence L. Tucker, Chas. G. Turner, Mrs. Maud Powell Turner.

U T. H. Uhrig, B. F. Ulmer, J. E. Upchurch, W. F. Upshaw.

V M. C. Vandiver, Mrs. A. M. Van Dyke, Mrs. A. 0. Vaughan, S. 0. Vickers.

W J. W. Wages, Fred Wagner, E. H. Waldrop, C. Irvine Walker, Jr., Leon Walker, Rev. Lynn R. Walker. Mrs. .Mat- tie Walker, Chas. B. Wallace, Mrs. Emma Richards Wallace, W. P. Walthall, Lott Warren, Miss Leland Waters. Mrs. W. M. Watkins, G. E. Watts, Mrs. J. E. Watts, W. M. Weathers, A. B. Weaver, L. A. Weedon, J. Mitt Wells, J. T. Wills, J. A. White, Dr. J. C. White, Mrs. Laura M. White, R. H. White, Mrs. J. W. Whitehead, Mrs. D. A. Wnitmore, C. A. Wikle, A. J. Williams, Mrs. C. H. Williams, L. 1). Williams, Robert H. Williamson, E. M. Willingham, W. B. Willingham, Edward H. Wilson, Louise C. Wilson, Mrs. Mary E. \\ ilson, Wm. Erskine Wimpy, Robt. L. Winslow, Miss S. J. Word, W. R. Word, J. M. Wright, D. R. Wynne, R. F. Wynne.

J. B. Zachry. HISTORY OF WEST END 93

WEST END ACADEMY DATA Collected and compiled by Miss Rusha Wesley, Principal Lee Street School. An interesting bunch of examination papers is included in the collection kept at the school. Ten grades. Enrollment 200-297. About one third non­ residents. Graduates (last year not included) : 1886: Maggie W. Culberson, Floville Humphries, Annie C. Kent, Ben F. Pickett, Thomas Kicklighter. 1887: Annie R. Bradford, Clarence Caldwell, Adda Bell Denham, Hannie E. Frazier, Ola Pickett, Laura Spilman, Harmon H. Whitcomb. 1888: Kate G. Bunker, Jessie E. Fuller, Samuel R. Hope, William R. Jones, Howell L. McDaniel, Charles H. Mobley, Eugene R. Pendleton, Word Redwine, Robert Sims, Arthur S. Wilson. 1889: Alice E. Megee, Julian Harris, Annie Bell Camp­ bell, J. W. Warner, George W. Adair, Jr. 1890: Minnie Wilson, Tom Longino, Mollie Elliott, Lula Taylor, Lurline Hatton Warner, Bessie Mae Mobley, Lola Wilson, Gertrude Alford, Alonzo 0. Stewart. 1891: Grace Blacknall, Annie Cheatham, Dawson Camp­ bell, Joe Brown Connally, H. Latham, William T. Perkerson, Bessie Redwine, Rosa Speights, H. M. Schwartz. 1892: Winifred Bunker, Graves Howard, Daviddie Mob­ ley, Lela Perkerson, Charles Thaden, Lucy Caldwell, Joe Howard, May Patton, E. S. Richardson, Olive Wilson. 1893. Thomas M. Cheatham, Jennie Shannon, Mabelle Shropshire, Lucile Smith, Oscar A. Venable, Scottie Wim- bish. Honors 1892-1893: Jennie Shannon and Lucile Smith, First Honor in Graduating Class. Oscar A. Venable and Lucile Smith won first and second Medals respectively in contest for taking the best dictation. 94 THE ATLANTA HISTORICAL BULLETIN

FIRST FACULTY: W. W. Lambdin, Principal; Martha Brinkley, Assistant; Janie Wood, Assistant; Mamie Wood, Assistant. Faculty, 1886-1887: Same, adding Carrie F. Cowles, Music. Faculty 1887-1888: W. W. Lambdin, Principal; Martha Brinkley, Janie Wood, lone Newman, Mrs. S. J. Hanna, Music. Faculty 1888-1889: A. J. M. Bizien, Principal; Martha Brinkley, Janie Wood, Mrs. Mackie Lee Hodge, Mrs. A. J. M. Bizien (French), Lillie L. Smith, Music. Faculty 1891: E. C. Merry, Mattie Nunnally, Sallie Da­ vies, Mrs. M. B. Howard, Carrie Harden. Faculty 1893-1894: T. A. E. Means, Principal; W. F. Dykes, Sallie Davies, Anna D. Hale, Nina Gibbs, Alice Me­ gee, Carrie L. Harden, Mrs. N. E. Clark, Cordelia Perry, Leila G. Hanbury. Trustees 1893-1894: (First trustees included in body of sketch.) W. C. Leigh, W. L. Wilson, W. W. Lambdin, Dr. E. L. Connally, John L. Tye, W. I. Zachry, Albert Howell, Jr., C. J. Kicklighter, Burgess Smith, J. W. Nelms, Mayor and ex-officio member.1

1. Mosl "f these lists oi the W. E. Academy have come from the announcement of 1893-1 89 1. SOME NINETEENTH CENTURY ATLANTA HOMES Still Occupied by the Families of Their Builders

By JULIA PORTER BLOCK Every time I see an old home destroyed, which for years has been a part of Atlanta, I can't help but feel that prog­ ress has two meanings—bigger and better but also ruth- lessness and heartbreaking. Not many years back, from Five Points to Ponce de Leon Avenue, was a district where graciousness lived in spacious homes, all with well kept lawns and beautiful gardens. It would not be normal if it didn't give me a pang every time the wreckers started on a new job of destruction. Thinking back, I can recall only seven homes built before the turn of the century that are now occupied by members of the families of the original owners. These are—the Wimberly Peters -.William A. Gregg - Hallman - Perrin Nicolson - Thomas Morgan - Williams, and Sam Inman homes. In 1885, when Edward Peters built his home at Ponce de Leon Avenue and Piedmont Avenue, it was the last dwell­ ing until you reached Decatur. It occupies one whole block and has spacious grounds. It was also the first home on Ponce de Leon. From Peachtree Street the road and sidewalks were not paved, so Mr. Peters had a plank walk built from Peachtree to his driveways and when he and his family would sit on the veranda and hear someone coming down the plank walk, they knew callers were on their way, for there was nowhere else for them to be going. I seldom pass by the old home that I do not recall invi­ tations to the Wimberly Peters' childhood birthday parties that always read, "do not come if it rains." We children would watch the weather and many a childhood prayer would plead for a perfect day. Only one party date do I remember when it rained, but the next day the sun shone bright, we all went, and the party was a great success. I remember hearing it said Ponce de Leon Avenue would never be a thoroughfare for it lead no where. Of course, 96 THE ATLANTA HISTORICAL BULLETIN that was before Druid Hills and Emory, and no one dreamed that it could be a short cut to Decatur. The Peters home is now occupied by Mr. and Mrs. Wimberly Peters, only son of Edward Peters, and his wife. Mrs. Thomas Morgan lives in her home, 947 Peachtree Street, which Mr. Morgan built for her when she came, a bride, to our city. There are stores next to her and gas sta­ tions across the street, but she loves her home and expects to live there. She says it is so convenient to have Church meetings and the D. A. R. Board meetings there, and too it is just a part of life she wants to keep near to her and how could she feel at home anywhere else after sixty years spent in her dream house? The William Perrin Nicolson home was built in 1892 by the late Dr. Nicolson for his bride, the beautiful Miss Caro­ line Crane. Mr. W. T. Downing was the architect and he always spoke of this work as his pet. The home is on the corner of Piedmont Avenue and 6th Street. At that time it was almost a country place, it was so far out. There was no electricity and they had to install their own gas and water system. At the front door was a speaking tube that Dr. Nicolson could talk from when in bed. To me this home seems to smile as I pass by for I never fail to look that way. It is such a comfortable, livable place for the whole Nicolson family are always ready with a wel­ coming hand. The family includes Mrs. William Perrin Nic­ olson, Mr. Lowry Nicolson, Miss Carolyn Nicolson, Dr. Per­ rin Nicolson, II, his wife and their son, Perrin, III. In the front yard is a beautiful tree—a fine-leaf water oak that was planted as soon as the family took possession. It adds much to the beauty of the landscape as well as the sentiment of watching it grow to perfection through all these years. The Hallman residence, 499 West Peachtree Street, N. E., is an example of old Atlanta homes. It was built by the late Mr. John Hallman about 1890, and is still occupied by his family. Mrs. Ruth Hallman Hill and Mr. Eenderson Hall­ man. SOME NINETEENTH CENTURY ATLANTA HOMES 97

Mr. Hallman was a Director of the Georgia Power Com­ pany but it was not until 1900 that his home was electrified, the house was so well built he felt it was impracticable to attempt it. It took three months to accomplish the work instead of the estimated three weeks. Mrs. Ruth Hallman Hill was a belle so this home has been the scene of many a gay and festive party. As soon as you enter the door you feel the mellowness the years have added to its charm. At the South side of the house are Mrs. Hill's gardens which reward her bountifully for her loving care. At one side is a wild cherry tree. It must be about 70 years old, as it was growing there when the Hallmans came. This cherry tree has always been a favorite haunt for the neigh­ borhood boys and they claim they feel very happy after eating its fruit. Well if it only makes them happy let's hope it will live 70 years more before vicious progress claims it and the beautiful garden. At Ponce de Leon and Peachtree Street, N. E., is the hand- {^ some Sam Inman home, built in 1892, now being dismantled, which will bring sadness to all old Atlantians, for it has been such a vital part of our heads and hearts, it is difficult to speak of it without a tear in one's voice. I remember the first little girl party I attended there in the early Nineties. Mrs. Inman didn't care how many times we ran up and down the broad stairs or how much noise we made, so when I felt and said I had had a fine time it was genuine as has been the pleasure of countless young and old who have enjoyed her hospitality. The first call I made on my future in-laws, the Frank Blocks, was after dinner at Mrs. Inman's. Dr. Block came over for me and I felt completely reassured by the boost she gave me at parting—such is her way. She has received many letters about what her home has meant to her friends and to Atlanta and she and others will carry cherished rec­ ollections to brighten the years to come—I really think she should write a book. In 1851 Mr. James Ethelred Williams and family came from Knoxville, Tenn., to make Atlanta their home. Mr. 98 THE ATLANTA HISTORICAL BULLETIN

Williams established a wholesale produce business and when the War Between the States began his warehouse and fa­ cilities were used for collecting food and hospital supplies for the Southern Army. After the war, in August, 1866, Mr. and Mrs. Williams and family moved in their new home, 305 Forrest Avenue. The lot of five acres had been bought the year before and the house begun at once. It contained eight large rooms besides kitchen and laundry, located on a knoll between four immense oak trees. Most of the work was done by Mr. Gunby, who was a cabi­ net maker, and all interior woodwork was made by him. He also made a beautiful maple table and day bed. The frame of the house is fastened together with large wooden pegs. Near by were fortifications, rifle pits and trenches (fox holes) and many 12 pound cannon balls and dozens of bul­ lets were found. The grounds were terraced. The fruit trees planted came from Berckman's Nursery at Augusta. A land­ scape gardener planted flowering shrubs, dozens of roses and two large beds of bulbs. There remain now one varnish tree, some fig bushes and a pink moss rosebush. About seventeen years later, so many houses had been built beyond that it was reasonable that Forrest Avenue should be extended. The road came to the front gate because there was no place else to go and as the house occupied the 40 feet of the street it was moved—raised on jacks, rolled south 100 feet and lowered five feet. When this was done and the street graded, all of the trees were cut down except a few that could be moved. Mr. Williams was Mayor of Atlanta in 1866-1867-1868 during the Reconstruction period when soldiers were sta­ tioned here to help keep peace and was commended by the General in command for his cooperation. The house is very attractive and is kept in apple pie order like a picture from an old scrap book. Miss Elizabeth Wil­ liams and Mr. Sam C. Williams and their niece, Miss Willie Fort Williams, live in this most attractive old home, and if its walls could only talk we might have a twin for Gone With the Wind. SOME NINETEENTH CENTURY ATLANTA HOMES 99

The late William Alanson Gregg built 430 Capitol Avenue in 1892 and six Gregg children grew to become valued citi­ zens of Atlanta. The home had a large play yard, all kinds of pets, horses and cows—and Lewis Gregg (our outstand­ ing artist) and his brother, Bob, owned a portable organ and became adept at making merry music, especially on Friday evening when the crowd would gather for a good time. Mr. Gregg was foresighted and had his home wired for electricity, though at that time it was not available to them, but when it did come the house was ready. Miss Elizabeth Gregg says she remembers friends gathering for the event when just at dusk at six o'clock the whole house, amid much applause, became brightly lighted. Mrs. Gregg is proud of her 87 years, having graduated from The Girls High School in 1875. From point of attend­ ance she is the oldest in Trinity Methodist Church. Decem­ ber'3, 1943, on Elizabeth Adair Rainwater's third birthday, she was baptized in her great-grandmother's home. Also present was her maternal great-grandmother, Mrs. Forest Adair, and the immediate family. The downstairs of this lovely old home is paneled with solid oak, wood money could not buy today, as well as child­ hood memories of the six grandchildren, purchased only by happy wholesome lives. WILLIAM BARNES, C. S. A. Captain Leyden's Battery, Ninth Georgia Battalion of Artillery

By JOHN M. HARRISON Among the heroes of the Gray who rest in Oakland Ceme­ tery lie the remains of one of Atlanta's pioneers whose par­ ticipation in the early life of the city entitles him to a more complete and lasting place in our permanent records than he has received. This article is intended to supply that record, and to prop­ erly preserve the memory of William Barnes, who gave his life for the Confederacy at Sayler's Creek, Virginia, on the retreat from Richmond only a few days before Appomattox. William Barnes was born November 29, 1824. He and his wife, Amanda Louisa Gullatt, both from Charleston, moved to Atlanta in the late 1840's. The list of Atlanta residents in 1851 (History of Atlanta and Its Pioneers) contains his name and gives his occupation as tin and cop­ persmith. His name, with those of his friends, John H. Mecaslin and William Kidd, and that of his wife's brother, James Gullatt, appear in the list of Pioneers (1853) given by C. R. Hanleiter in "Atlanta and Its Builders." He was a member of City Council in 1855 and again in 1862. When Atlanta Fire Company No. 1 was chartered in Feb­ ruary, 1850, William Barnes became a charter member, and remained a member until December, 1856, when he became president of the newly organized Mechanics Fire Company No. 2. In 1860 he was chosen the first chief of Atlanta Vol­ unteer Fire Department, composed of the two companies previously named, Tallulah Fire Company No. 3 and Atlanta Hook and Ladder Company No. 1. These Are companies were social and fraternal bodies as well as for fire lighting, and the old papers of early days contain many references to their social gatherings. William Barnes took his full part in these. The ball held in October, 1857 by Atlanta Fire Company No. 1 was under his direction as one of the floor managers. WILLIAM BARNES, C. S. A. 101

In the latter part of 1853 he and his friend, John H. Me­ caslin, purchased adjoining lots on Butler Street just South of the present Steiner Clinic buildings, and as neighbors living there, cemented their friendship with the passing of the years. As the clouds of approaching war gathered and Hon. Stephen A. Douglas spoke in Atlanta in October, 1860, the "Minute Men Association" was formed, and William Barnes joined. Then as the conflict developed, under his leadership the fire companies of Atlanta offered their services to de­ fend the city. But this was not enough for the subject of our sketch, hence almost immediately following his designa­ tion as an aid to Mayor Calhoun, acting as Civil Governor of Atlanta until General Braxton Bragg's proclamation of mar­ tial law in the summer of 1862, William Barnes resigned as City Councilman and Chief of the Fire Department, and accepted a commission as First Lieutenant in Company A, or "Leyden's Battery," Ninth George Battalion of Artillery. Under date of June 3, 1862 the "Intelligencer" carried a column by W. L. Scruggs, General Correspondent, entitled "Sword Presentation" which is quoted in full:

"On Saturday evening last, at the City Hall, we witnessed the cere­ monies of the presentation of a magnificent sword (cost $100) by the Fire Department of Atlanta to Lt. Wm. Barnes, their previous Chief. The Fire Companies and Hook & Ladder Company were out in full costume, all looking as bright as a 'new pin.' It was an imposing sight, and it made our heart glad, that, notwithstanding so many of those who, in days past, were members of these companies are now absent in the tented field, so many are yet left to do the patriotic duty of fighting an enemy as much to be dreaded as a foreign foe. We have on former occasions said much in commendation of our Fire Depart­ ment. We have nothing to take back. In the loss of Wm. Barnes, the former Chief of this Department, we have much to regret. We wit­ nessed his fidelity and skill on many occasions. Our consolation is that he has been transferred to another field of labor and peril, in which we feel no doubt he will be equally efficient and useful. His suc­ cessor, Mr. Samuel Sherwood, is in every way worthy and well quali­ fied to follow in the footsteps of 'Bill Barnes.' He is always ready, when our peaceful homes and families are exposed to the fiery enemy. All praise to the firemen of Atlanta. "The meeting consisting of the several Companies of the Fire De­ partment, a large number of ladies and gentlemen, was called to order by the Chief of the Fire Department, Mr. Samuel Sherwood, 102 THE ATLANTA HISTORICAL BULLETIN who, in a few appropriate remarks, explained the object of the meet­ ing, and introduced Mr. J. H. Mecaslin, who made the sword presen­ tation. Lieut. Barnes made a reply. The addresses of Mr. Mecaslin and of Lieut. Barnes will be found below. At the conclusion of the ceremony, the celebrated Wm. H. Barnes was loudly called for, and re­ sponded in a song, which none but Barnes could have done.

MR. MECASLIN'S ADDRESS "Through the kindness of the Fire Department of Atlanta, it be­ comes my pleasing duty, upon your retiring from the honorable posi­ tion which you have so gallantly sustained, to appear in behalf of the Firemen of this city, and present you with a slight token of their esteem for you as a gentleman, and their admiration for you as an officer. "To your unflagging energy and untiring zeal is this city mainly indebted for its present effective Fire Department. Your motto has been 'EVER READY.' "And, when flaming scenes have surrounded us, your voice has inspired the corps, and your judgment has ever pointed to the path of success; and it is with pride that I and those around me, from the time we first linked ourselves together as a band of Firemen, have watched your energetic and successful efforts to organize and build up an efficient and well working Fire Department. "You are now leaving us for another sphere of action. To say that you will be successful, is superfluous. Believe us, Chief, you carry with you the warm affections of the Firemen, the esteem of the com­ munity in which you live, and the regards of all who know you. "Accept this sword—'tis an emblem of our feelings toward you 'EVER READY AND TRUE.' May it ever strike for the cause of Liberty, and never be sheathed until our land is redeemed and dis­ enthralled from the chains in which vandals would bind her. "Accept it, Chief, as a token of love from your brother Firemen, and may God, in His mercy, bless and protect you and return you in safety to your home and friends."

LIEUT. BARNES' REPLY "Mr. Mecaslin and Gentlemen of the Atlanta Fire Department: "I accept this handsome present from your gallant body, and it is with pleasure that I attempt to return my grateful acknowledg­ ments to you all for your kindness shown, and gentlemanly deport ment toward me on all occasions in days past and gone, at which time I had the honor of presiding over your gallant band. Whether it was at your meetings, parades, or to fight the demon of destruction, I have always found you ever ready for duty, and giving your time, your money and risking your lives for the public good. Your motto has ever been 'To the Rescue, Boys, to the Rescue,' and it has always been a great source of pleasure to me to meet you on all such occa "Although I have laid away for the time being the 'Machine,' the WILLIAM BARNES, C. S. A. 103 pride of a fireman, and taken another field of action, the remembrance of the past will ever be dear to me; and now, in conclusion, let me return you my sincere thanks for one of the highest tokens that could be given a soldier. When, on the battle field, rest assured, I will try and defend your rights and avenge our country's wrongs." Following Lieutenant Barnes' departure for the front his metal working business located at Whitehall and the rail­ road (Tomlinson & Barnes) was acquired by John H. Me­ caslin and William Kidd. Perhaps it is correct to assume that Barnes Lodge of the Independent Order of Odd Fellows, which was organized in March, 1863, was named for William Barnes, in recognition of his work as a member of Central Lodge which dates from 1848. A letter written to the Atlanta Constitution July 30, 1889 by S. W. Grubb, the first secretary of Barnes Lodge, gives credit to the associates of Wm. Barnes for saving the older Central Lodge. That our pioneer rendered loyal and honorable service under the Stars and Bars is attested by his elevation to the captaincy of his company. There are no records available to this writer which will show the engagements in which William Barnes took part, other than the sharp fight at Sayler's Creek where he was mortally wounded, yet the following letter will reveal something of his spirit and high devotion to his beloved Southland. It was written from Columbia and mailed to John H. Mecaslin in Baltimore "via flag of truce at Fortress Monroe," and bears a Confederate stamp postmarked "Columbia, S. C." and a United States stamp cancelled at Old Point Comfort.

"Columbia SoCo Jan 20 1865 John H. Mecaslin Friend Mc I take this opportunity of writing you a few lines hopeing to find you and Mrs. Mc in good health as it leaves us all present, I was very sorry when I arrived home not finding you here, many and many a time while in prison you were (in) my thoughts and allow me to say that you are yet and I hope that some day we may meet yet and talk old times over again, I came through on the 15th of last month and found my family & Jimmey's & Henry all well, they are living here. I paid a visit to my old house and found a good deal in a 104 THE ATLANTA HISTORICAL BULLETIN dilapidated condition, I called on Mr. & Mrs. Mullin they were very anxious about you both, they heard several different rumors about you but when I left them they became more reconciled, you must write to them a letter from you & Mrs Mc would relieve them a good deal. Mc I wish (you) would write Lt. A. S. Talley at Fort Dela­ ware Division 25 and alleviate his sufferings as much as you can and if in need of any thing get Mrs Mc to send them & I will make it good, the whole family sends their love to you & Mrs Mc & accept the same from your friend in F. L. & T. WM. BARNES." In a few short weeks he had given his life for the Cause. His remains were interred in Virginia and a year later brought to Oakland by his wife, who, meanwhile, used her home as a hospital for the wounded, long after the surren­ der. She lived until 1893 a beloved citizen of Atlanta, hon­ ored and respected by her husband's friends.

NOTE: Thanks are due Mrs. S. W. McCallie and Mrs. James Cranston Williams of Greensboro for aid in compiling the foregoing. PRYOR STREET IN ITS YOUNG DAYS*

By LEONORA RAINES I fear anything from me about Pryor Street and its his­ tory, may be something of a Fourth of July oration. Pryor Street that was, stood for my childhood, and I think with us all, early days are most radiant and impressionable, pleased as we are with the actual present, hypnotized with a hidden future which can only unfold happy events. The corner of Pryor and Fair where first I saw the light, seemed to be the centre of creation. People could walk to shop or market, churches were near, schools only a reason­ able distance away. Neighbors were hospitable. Living was easy. Also Pryor Streeters were sympathetic and generous. For instance, if one happened to be ill or convalescent, break­ fast was apt to be sent in by a neighbor, there being respon­ sibility and comradeship in the air on the street. Homes along Pryor were generally of wood, surrounded by fences that made the place secure and snug. Dwellings were quite independent of architectural limitations, built upon personal lines, you might say. Lawns trimmed the home, maybe a fountain, sometimes a croquet ground. Of course every house had a porch, the porch used as another room in summer. Gardens burst with color in season, and beauty was there in her own right. Had it wished, Pryor could boast of its beautiful homes, but I think no one boasted, for Atlantans were not rich, nor was money the language of society. I speak of the first generation following the War Between the States. Not so many years before, remnants of the Confederate Army had limped home in rags and tatters. They found slaves freed; their money of no value. Plantations neglected and ruined. Business wrecked. So people had to do what they could, to get along. Educated men accepted all sorts of jobs, for it was that, or be in want. If a Pryor Streeter owned a home, had a business or an

*Written for the Atlanta Historical Society. Read on the May, 1942, program. 106 THE ATLANTA HISTORICAL BULLETIN office in a good section, that signified living on "Comfort Street." I am convinced many Pryor Streeters' forebears, men of distinction and honor, journeyed across the Atlantic with General Oglethorpe. These men were ambitious, public- spirited citizens; could tell a good story; had a fine sense of humor; were loyal to friends. As the street and neighbor­ hood come back to me, they were full of balance, character, refinement, liveliness. I may add here that Pryor Street was named for an early settler, Allen Pryor, grand-uncle to pres­ ent citizens of Atlanta. Although a few houses along Pryor antedated the war, it is probable the street was but a fledgling, following the con­ flict. I have been told streets in the vicinity of Pryor and Alabama were young swamps—proved from the fact that the Temple Court building at corner of Alabama developed big cracks in walls; that in rainy weather, certain ground bordering Hunter Street was mirey. My early recollections of Pryor in winter are not rosy. Mud was far deeper than it should have been. Winter rains were unrelenting. Sometimes we almost felt mould forming on face and hands. Old Pryor was unpaved. School-children often left their overshoes in the mud, trying to cross the street on stones or planks. Later, Pryor was studded with Belgian blocks, square uneven tones put there by Italian workmen, who I fancy, practised their first job of masonry, upon our street. Until then, the graceful thoroughfare had been Atlanta's best driveway. People passed in victoria, dogcart, surrey, buggy, or they rode horseback. The rough Belgian stones were not in favor of comfort or beauty, for at that time, there were no rubber tires on wheels. Later, poor Pryor had another enemy, a noisy little engine and car, known as "dummy." The dummy was considered a necessity, it connecting a sort of belt-line from Grant Park to Union Station, known as the "Car Shed." The dummy belched smoke and cinders as it boomed along searing horses, and in the end, driving carriages to Washington Street, or McDonough Street (later changed to Capitol Avenue). Residences on Pryor Street began with Dr. Powell's cot- PRYOR STREET IN ITS YOUNG DAYS 107 tage near the corner of Hunter. On the next square at Mitchell, was the Neal-Pittman home. The tall brick house was a replica of Charleston homes on the Battery, iron rail­ ing and all. The Romare and Muse homes, next the Neals, were high above the street approached by steps. At the cor­ ner of Pryor and Peters, now Trinity Avenue, was the Glover residence. On the next square lived the Abbotts, Don Bains, McArthurs, then the cottage of Mr. and Mrs. Fears. Mrs. Fear's sons, Dan and Peter Grant, lived there, also Mr. and Mrs. Dickson, daughter and son-in-law of Mrs. Fears. The handsome property of Captain John Keely was next the Fears. The Frank Perrymans lived on corner of Gar­ nett. Then came the Schumann home, followed by the Hay­ den property, this especially interesting to youngsters, be­ cause of its superb oak tree, up the trunk of which ran a lightning rod. Longside the Haydens, was the cottage of General Clement Evans. At the bifurcation of Fair, Brotherton and Pryor Streets, was a most lovely home built by Mayor Hammock, later oc­ cupied by the Chan Joneses. On the corner across Fair, was the rambling residence of the Cornelius Sheehans. The Judge Hammonds lived next door, then alongside the Ham­ monds was the Isaac May place, later occupied by the Gads­ den Kings. Mr. and Mrs. Riach, a couple recently landed from Scotland, lived in the cottage far back from the street. Mrs. DeSaussure and her several sons lived next the Riachs. Down the slope was the Williams place. The Judsons occu­ pied a big white house below Jones Street, now Woodward Avenue, the house later lived in by the Hollidays. Nothing on the next square save the Rawson estate, of which I will speak later. In a cottage topping a sharp hill at the corner of Eugenia Street, lived the Ezra Andrews. This property was always attractive, not only because of the big magnolia trees and rare flowers up there, but because it was the home of Miss Mattie, our beloved teacher at Crew. Beyond the Andrews place and down hill, lived the Hesters. Then there was a long space through which flowed a brook. You had to cross 108 THE ATLANTA HISTORICAL BULLETIN

Pryor there on a tiny wooden bridge. On the far side of the street, lived the C. I. Brown family. A trifle up the hill, lived the C. W. Moteses. The city really ended there, for imme­ diately beyond Richardson, Pryor dissolved into a broad country road. There at Richardson and Pryor, the Castle- mans and Oglesbys built delightful homes. What was said to be a squatter hut further out the road, was occupied by the Hesterly family. North Pryor scarcely existed, indeed I don't recall it as a child, for one reason because it was at the other side of railroad tracks, and as dangerous locomotives shifted by continually, children were forbidden to "cross the tracks," as the railway was described. Nothing stands out clearer or I may say more brightly, than the corner of Pryor and Hunter, though the real pic­ ture was a dark one. In those happy days, the spot was a sort of dream picture. An immense house stood there, but it was the spread-out grounds covered in heavily-leafed trees, that inflamed my spirit and has stayed with me through the years. The corner was titled "The Shades," called so no doubt, from the blissful twilight under the shel­ ter on a burning summer day. The forest of trees at "The Shades" was a happy hunting ground for birds. We youngsters ran there at summer sun­ set to listen to the mad rustle and grumbling of martins as they sought a place to settle on boughs for the night. We used to watch for approach of the birds that came in a roundabout swirl from West End. Long before they swooped over Whitehall, the birds gathered and soared in a monstrous black mantle, advising us they were on the way, and we sped along, for the nestling of the martins was something to assist at. I have been party to the homing of birds in many lands, but never have I heard such eloquent cries, such sharp fervor, as those thousands of birds made, hailing each other. On the block between Mitchell and Peters Streets, lived the Smalls, sisters and brothers of Sam. Sam and his family lived on Formwalt Street, just below Pryor. Mrs. Fuller and her daughters occupied a house adjoining the Smalls. PRYOR STREET IN ITS YOUNG DAYS 109

In a brick residence next door, lived the Bowies. The Brum- bys, Lynans, O'Keefes, and Popes had homes further along the street. At corner of Peters, now Trinity Avenue, where a church now stands was the Craig property, comprising an ante bellum residence, loaded down with flowers, vines, shrubbery; miles and miles of boxwood. Colonel McAfee and his son-in-law, Mayor Goodwin, oc­ cupied a brick house in the next square. The Bishop Beck­ with property next door, carried its special message of beau­ ty, distinction, uniqueness. I say uniqueness, for never was there such a vast porch, never such a velvety lawn or noble trees. Adjoining the Beckwiths was the cozy Chisolm home, the formal garden of which was noted for its myriads of roses and for its magnolias. At corner of Garnet, prior to becoming the home of Dr. Taliaferro, was a stream lower than the street, in fact Pryor was hilly all the way from Peters, but the depression here became something of a gully. The Taliaferro place had to be connected with the street by a porch-gangway. Next the Taliaferros lived the Crawfords, then on the corner of Fair, was the Captain Tally home. Across the street was the much-porched, flower-garnished property of W. A. Hemp­ hill, who, with Evan Howell, was owner of the Atlanta Con­ stitution. The W. M. Scotts later lived there. In after years, Dr. Noble occupied the corner. Alongside the Hemphills lived the James Meadors. Mrs. Eckford and her grown-up sons lived next door, that same house later occupied by Major John Whitner and family. Then came the Dorsey cottage. Down hill lived Dr. Lee. The Fitzhugh Knoxes lived here later. Next to the Lees, was the Hoyle residence. On the corner of Pryor and Jones, now Woodward Avenue, was the big property of Dr. Thomp­ son. At the side of his house was a field through which spread a wide branch that scooped a great bed for itself in the ground. That same branch ran through the city, though I only recall the stream as it shot out of a culvert at Fair. I may add that branches tracked Pryor all along, till they split into brooks in Ormond's Grove. The Colonel Morrows occupied the only residence between Rawson and Alice 110 THE ATLANTA HISTORICAL BULLETIN

Streets. On the steep ridge that topped the hill near Rich­ ardson Street was the Colonel Jackson home. The tall white house was like a ghostly castle against blue sky and forest of trees. It stood a vigilant centinel over that part of town. Captain Hansell and family later lived on the Jackson prop­ erty. Next to the Jacksons lived the M. F. Kisers, and ad­ joining the Kisers, the Lowes. Though I have sojourned in other lands and viewed sights that almost led me to tears for one reason or another, al­ most never have I contacted a living spot that impressed me like the Rawson home. Definitely, Mr. Rawson chose that brag estate near Berlin, "Sans Souci," as model. This most picturesque and beautiful home in Atlanta was enclosed by Pryor, Formwalt, Eugenia, and Rawson Streets. Form- wait was on a high hill up from Pryor though parallel, and the accidental slope was what made it possible for the Raw- sons to cut into the land as they did, and space the terraces. A half dozen terraces were there, outlined in trees and rows of steps, from the residence all the way down to Pryor. The family did not use the front entrance, but stepped into the carriage at the porte cochere on Formwalt. At Sans Souci, erected by Frederick the Great, the palace is on a lofty eminence. But it squats on the elevation, where­ as the Rawson house of two stories looked majestically down from the brow of the peak. The house was painted a soft white, with touches of gray. To my child imagination, the grounds were full of delicious mystery and enchantment— as though created by a magician's wand. Just the spot for romance, for fairies. Never did I pass the place without running up to the gate, to gaze and gaze up the vista that greeted the eye, to look, to listen, for always. I expected to hear or see something more lovely than I had already seen, gliding under the lights and shades of the picture. The fairy legend was complete, with the beautifid people that lived there. To instill into my thought and carry out the scene, too wonderful to be real, was the chariot phaeton, drawn by dapple-grey horses, and the round, coal-black coachman, proud and mighty on his throne of a seat. PRYOR STREET IN ITS YOUNG DAYS 111

No Beauty Parlors in Atlanta during Pryor's juvenile days. But women thought just as deeply of clothes and were just as well-groomed and -dressed as today. Seems to me they went to further odds to be physically fit. Daintiness they sought above all else. They wore veils in March to keep away wind-freckles. They put on gloves when going to bed, to make the hands smooth and white. They had to have small feet, small hands. If a new shoe didn't hurt, it was considered too large and probably exchanged for footgear that did. Or, after buying a so-pretty pair of shoes, it was rather the custom to have a friend "break" them. By break­ ing was meant, that she who kindly wore the shoe, would stretch it, thereby removing the stiffness. Women craved small waists, too, 18 to 21 inches being the stylish size. It was when Atlanta suffered serious attacks of growing pains, that Peachtree began to rival Pryor as a residence street. Until then, there was but one side of town—the historic south, dominated by Pryor, Washington, Capitol Avenue. The meagre north side seemed so far away, a sort of rich suburb, until folks began to move out there. Later, Pryor Streeters loved to drive out Peachtree as far as Pine, to take a look at the handsome homes and sweeping lawns. Above all, the Grant property intrigued with its superb situation, its manor house, its fountain that had the perfec­ tion and delicacy of a Tanagra. Street cars went no further than Pine, and what slow plodding machines they were, dragged by horse or mule! Probably the most memorable event that occurred in those years, was the burning of the Kimball House. The rich brown-stone structure fronting Pryor, was the most impor­ tant thing in town, and that it should be attacked by flames, unbelievable. That Sunday morn just after daylight, a ring came to our door-bell. There stood Mrs. Boynton, sister of Mrs. Chan Jones, our next-door neighbor, to say the Kimball was on fire. The Boyntons lived in the hotel, had been awakened by guests fleeing from the doomed building. We got dressed and joined other children running up the street, for Atlan­ tans wanted to be present at the catastrophe. No one was allowed nearer than Hunter Street, but that was enough 112 THE ATLANTA HISTORICAL BULLETIN to feel the heat and view the flames that leapt far higher than smoke that seemed to pull them back and under. Loath to leave the crashing scene, we reached home for late breakfast. Our fine Kimball was no more. That day the fire smouldered long, and every Atlantan who could, visited the ruins. I suspect all felt they had suffered a personal loss, for the handsomely solid hotel was famous throughout the States. There used to be a certain mineral chalybeate spring somewhere below where Terminal Station now stands. Memory refuses to define the exact location of the spring, but I do recall a black stuffed bear in some window near. On bright summer mornings, Pryor Street youngsters took to going to the spring before breakfast, for what older folks called a "constitutional." My first view of Mr. John Isham, principal of Crew Street School, was at the spring. An Englishman, the gentleman liked to tramp miles before his first meal. As he strode along, with his thick brown cane, his grey beard brushing his collar, Mr. Isham made an image that might have stepped out of Dickens or Thackeray (though I did not realize that then). Very friendly the master was, to children on promenades, but not so friendly in the class-room. One of the best edu­ cators in the universe, our Mr. Isham was. However, pupils did not appreciate his strenuous method of imparting knowl­ edge. Not an unusual act it was, for a boy in his class prom­ ised a flogging (as the master called a whipping), to scurry home at recess and armor himself with a second pair of pants. During that period of Atlanta's making, parents and teachers did not spare the rod. When a youngster needed punishment, he got it. In Mr. Isham's room, often we assist­ ed at what seemed a mortal combat, for the master did all he promised a boy in the chastising line, and did it ad­ mirably. One day the professor was particularly watchful of delin­ quent boys in the class. It was declamation hour. Will Up­ shaw, whom you know, was on the rostrum, delivering one of his dramatic orations. Mr. Isham had placed an obstrep PRYOR STREET IN ITS YOUNG DAYS 113 erous lad on the side bench, so the lad could be in teacher's direct line of vision, and teacher could listen to speeches at the same time. The wilful youngster had collected a hand­ ful of chalk bits. When Will was in the tragic midst of his "Burial of Moses," bursting with the eloquence that later characterized him in Congress, the bad boy could not resist action. Momentarily, teacher's eye was centered upon another bad boy. Will's lips were wide, speaking. The boy on the bench proved himself a good shot, for he threw the chalk so that it landed plumb between the teeth of the declaimer, and nestled there. Will Upshaw was a real sport. He stopped his speech, smiling, picked the chalk from his mouth, then proceeded burying Moses. There was smothered laughter among the pupils. Mr. Isham jumped up, but by this time the orator had taken up the thread of his story, and the wilful boy was as innocent-looking as anyone. The master never solved the chalk slight-o'-hand and maybe just as well! I believe youngsters of those times entertained different sentiments regarding forests and wilderness to what young­ sters do today, probably because with modern locomotion, distances are now easy. Then, woods and the country were inaccessible and far away, in that no street car reached be­ yond the edge of town. It was in Ormond's Grove that schools held their picnics. Saturday was the popular day for getting into the woods, for the grove was not too far to walk. Morning studies over, we started out. "Where you-all going?" others called us. Our answer, "To the woods. Come along and go with us." "All right. Wait till I ask Mother." Then the light-hearted band increasing till it numbered a fair-sized caravan, moved past, not a moment to lose. We had to be back in time for two o'clock dinner. Near the cor­ ner of Richardson, was a Confederate soldier's grave. Part of the white slab had fallen in, no doubt from rains, but we did not attempt to find the reason, so walked a respectful distance aside. What compensation there was in Ormond's Grove! It was indeed another world. Mocking birds led the full cho- 114 THE ATLANTA HISTORICAL BULLETIN rus. Robins split their scarlet throats to be heard. Wood­ peckers made music by scraping their bills against the bark of trees. Crickets whistled. Frogs were bass drums of the orchestra. Brooks sang as they tripped along. No playing for us there. We could do that at home. Just to be under trees that were like temples, and away from the hive of mere people, was sufficient. Girls picked wild flowers or sweet shrubs, or looked for four-leaf clover. Boys hunted chinka­ pins, and searched for new berries, or pulled off shoes and waded in the stream so crystal clear, it might have flowed straight from heaven. We wandered on and on, further and further into that heart of creation until someone blurted out, that if we didn't get back in time for dinner, we'd not be allowed to come again. There was a hurry and scuffle as we faced home­ wards. One day we did stray too far. Starting back, all was confusion. Every direction blocked us, for there were no paths or roads in that forest primeval. We called. We shout­ ed. Nothing answered but the birds. One of our band, weep­ ing, suggested we say a prayer to find the way out. Imme­ diately, the caravan fell to its knees. We gave a tearful if suppliant rendition of the Lord's Prayer. We, babes in the wood, rose to our feet, fortified. After a moment, one of the boys ran a distance, crying, "I know now. Look yonder, at that spire through the trees. See? That's McNaught's stable. And look here, at the print of a colt's hoof!" True it was. We dashed along, to spy a zig­ zag fence we had climbed over, and the landmark. Mc- Naught's white house, in the distance. On the way back from Ormond's we sometimes passed the mansion of ex-Governor lb-own, to get a look at the glam­ orous peacocks that draped the fence and outhouse. A sight it was—the peafowls strutting, scintillating their outspread fans as they vamped in pride and glory. Their cries could be heard all the way to Pryor Street, and when they were unusually long, youngsters would say, "Hear that? It's sure going to rain!" Pryor Street appeared to have enough of everything in those days of quiet, content, sometime- revelry, I'll say noth- PRYOR STREET IN ITS YOUNG DAYS 115 ing of the social life, or of Pryor's fair women and splendid men. That would take a book in itself. People knew the best of music, too. The Beethoven Soci­ ety was before my time, but I recall reports of it and the high grade of concerts at Concordia Hall. The earliest teach­ er I personally knew was Mrs. Eckford, who lived opposite us on Pryor Street. Later the Schultzes came, bringing more classics. Mrs. Schultz was born a Von der Hoya. She had committed the indiscretion of falling in love with and marry­ ing her music teacher. The story goes that the Von der Hoyas could not tolerate the thought of having a music master in their circle so shipped the young couple out to America. They reached Atlanta, induced to come, I am told, by reports of the climate. The Schultzes remained for years, were highly successful, introducing the best and most diffi­ cult music. There was Mrs. Linnie McCandless Wilson, who taught piano, also trained high school girl graduates for commence­ ment. Then there was Mrs. Mary Madden, pianist and or­ ganist of high rank. Alfredo Barili, nephew of Adelina Patti, came to Atlanta, he and his wife, the latter of noble Polish-Silesian stock, the Koliski-Lehmans. The Barilis taught here for fifty-odd years. There was Mrs. Sarah Han- nah-Binyon and other certified teachers. Sousa's compositions were beloved by Atlanta musicians, many of whom lived on Pryor, those music-lovers who did not lean to popular airs, yet could not fully appreciate the intricate fugues of classic scores. Sousa filled in between, his music having all the nuances of military psychology, long unusual stride, grip on the musket, pride in the regiment, and many Pryor Streeters loved it. Every house on Pryor had a piano and I think nearly every family a singer. Sitting on my porch of a summer eve, always there was music within earshot. I heard such songs as: "The Kerry Dance," "Good bye Summer," "Last Night," "Genevieve," "In the Gloaming," "Flee as a Bird," " 'Tis Evening Brings My Heart to Thee," "The Bridge," "Alice Where Art Thou?" "0 Fair Dove, 0 Fond Dove," "Good Night Sweet Dreams." Often negroes would pass, strum- 116 THE ATLANTA HISTORICAL BULLETIN ming a guitar or banjo, perhaps singing to their own ac­ companiment. We had art circles and portrait painters, the best known, Mrs. Gregory Van Stavoren, Hal Morrison, James Field. Then there were literary circles. "Manch," a stirring novel by Mary E. Bryan of Atlanta, was read and won high praise throughout the country. Poets galore, in fact every fourth person you met, sang the muse. Orelia Key Bell lived on Pryor, Lollie Belle Wylie lived not far off, on Fair Street. Charles W. Hubner composed verse as he showed customers about in a Whitehall store. Frank Stanton was just arriving at that time. I believe Pryor Street had its first set-back when city fathers began to discipline its figure—in other words to shave curves off hills and push up depressions. Those good men and true who helped build Atlanta, probably did not remember that the grace of old cities almost depended upon the steepness of knolls, for success. Those identical streets developed upon slopes, are untouched to this day, some thou­ sand years after their making. Athens, Rome, Naples, Con­ stantinople, and our own San Francisco, did not consider it a blight to have only curves to build upon. Hills they said, spelled health, because gale and rain had a better chance to fan and wash off germs and such—to say nothing of the beauty of rolling ground. And so Pryor was hurt when our men got busy, levelling this hill, padding that valley. When the street was finally completed, some lots were thrown in the air, others dropped to the level, shattering the landscape. Trees had to be slaughtered, and were. A few property owners went so far as to bring suit against the city for damage, but found themselves fighting a stone wall. I think Atlanta has now outlived its grading mania—see­ ing the work for instance on Alabama where Pryor Street crosses it. That very important part of the business pre­ cinct was attempted to be made over. Trying to improve upon nature, surfaces were thrown up to meet the height of hill, suppressing valuable property and in the end burying a percentage of our best business centre. PRYOR STREET IN ITS YOUNG DAYS 117

Almost none of the Pryor Street homes that lived and were brilliant in say, the nineties, survive to tell their story. When the remaining old residences will have disappeared, there may be a renaissance of the once beautiful street, just as there was a rebirth of Sixth Avenue in New York, after a century domination of trade and sordidness. On account of its position through the direct centre of town, Pryor may always remain Atlanta's chief artery, connecting the north by way of Peachtree, running to Macon and the south by way of Ridge Avenue. It is consoling to know that Pryor is not the only street that has been deserted by its one-time dwellers. History of the world shows that neighborhoods in every prosperous town have been shifted. With a growing community locali­ ties cannot remain fixed. New generations come along, lack of sentiment or association causes young folks to dispose of land that was dear to their parents, for something more modern. What has happened to Pryor Street, is but tradition ap­ plied here. Though old Pryor may never again become the street of distinguished homes it once was, it will not be for­ gotten, so long as Atlantans who knew it at its best, live to tell of its charm, of its youth so full of content, bloom and cheer. ATLANTA HISTORICAL SOCIETY FOUNDERS

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