Atlanta Heritage Trails 2.3 Miles, Easy–Moderate

4th Edition

AtlantaAtlanta WalksWalks

4th Edition

AtlantaAtlanta WalksWalks

A Comprehensive Guide to Walking, Running, and Bicycling the Area’s Scenic and Historic Locales

Ren and Helen Davis Published by PEACHTREE PUBLISHERS 1700 Chattahoochee Avenue Atlanta, Georgia 30318-2112 www.peachtree-online.com

All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced, stored in a retrieval system, or transmitted in any form or by any means—electronic, mechanical, photocopy, recording, or any other—except for brief quotations in printed reviews, without prior permission of the publisher.

This book is a revised edition of Atlanta’s Urban Trails.Vol. 1, City Tours.Vol. 2, Country Tours. Atlanta: Susan Hunter Publishing, 1988.

Maps by Twin Studios and XNR Productions Book design by Loraine M. Joyner Cover design by Maureen Withee Composition by Robin Sherman

Fourth Edition 10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1

Manufactured in August 2011 in Harrisonburg, Virgina, by RR Donnelley & Sons in the United States of America

Library of Congress Cataloging in Publication Data Davis, Ren, 1951- Atlanta walks : a comprehensive guide to walking, running, and bicycling the area’s scenic and historic locales / written by Ren and Helen Davis. -- 4th ed. p. cm. Includes bibliographical references and index. ISBN 978-1-56145-584-3 (alk. paper) 1. Atlanta (Ga.)--Tours. 2. Atlanta Region (Ga.)--Tours. 3. Walking--Georgia--Atlanta-- Guidebooks. 4. Walking--Georgia--Atlanta Region--Guidebooks. 5. Outdoor recreation--Georgia--Atlanta--Guidebooks. 6. Outdoor recreation--Georgia--Atlanta Region--Guidebooks. I. Davis, Helen. II. Title. F294.A83D36 2011 917.58'2310444--dc22 2010045766 CONTENTS

Preface...... xii 3 West End How To Use This Guide...... xiv Walking, Running, Biking The PATH Foundation ...... xv A Victorian neighborhood featuring the The Belt Line Project...... xvii Wren’s Nest, Hammonds House, and MARTA System Map ...... xix E. P. Howell Park. Trail Locator Map ...... xx 1.5 miles, Easy ...... 46 Tips for the Trek...... 1 Shoe Selection...... 1 4 Outdoor Activity Center Preparing to Walk ...... 2 Walking Walking with Children ...... 2 Woodland preserve featuring exhibits A Guide for Teachers ...... 4 and activities near the heart of the city. A Selection of Adventure Walks 1.5 miles, Easy–Moderate...... 51 with Children ...... 4 Bicycling ...... 5 5 Cascade Springs Accessibility for Disabled Persons...... 6 Nature Preserve Walking Lush woodlands with cascading stream INTOWN and mineral springs. Site of Civil War ATLANTA Battle of Utoy Creek. 1 Atlanta Heritage Trails 2.3 miles, Easy–Moderate...... 55 Walking, Running, Biking Two walks through the heart of the city, 6 Historic Oakland Cemetery including historic Underground Atlanta, Walking, Running the Capitol, Five Points, Centennial Atlanta’s first municipal burial ground Olympic Park, Sweet Auburn, and Martin (1850). A Victorian treasure where many Luther King, Jr. National Historic District. notable Atlantans are buried. Atlanta Skyline Trail: 2.3 miles, Easy ...... 60 4.4 miles, Easy; Sweet Auburn/King Historic District: 7 Grant Park 2.5 miles, Easy...... 10 Walking, Running, Biking A Victorian neighborhood surrounding a 2 Atlanta University Center large city park including Zoo Atlanta and Walking, Running, Biking the Cyclorama. The campuses of Clark Atlanta Univer- 5.0 miles, Moderate ...... 69 sity, Morehouse and Spelman Colleges, the Interdenominational Theological Center, and old Morris Brown form the historically black university complex. 4.3 miles, Easy ...... 32 CONTENTS

8 Inman Park 13 Piedmont Park & Walking, Running, Biking Atlanta Botanical Garden Site of the pivotal Civil War Battle Walking, Running, Biking of Atlanta in 1864. Later, Atlanta’s A park that has been a gathering place first planned residential community. for Atlantans for more than a century. Excellent Victorian architecture. Adjacent Atlanta Botanical Garden fea- 3.0 miles, Moderate ...... 75 tures rare, exotic, and native plants; the Fuqua Conservatory; and Canopy Walk 9 Freedom Park, Candler Park, through the Storza Forest Preserve. & Little Five Points 5.3 miles (including gardens), Walking, Running, Biking Moderate ...... 119 Urban park with part of the PATH Foundation’s trail system. Links the 14 Ansley Park Jimmy Carter Library and Museum with Walking, Running, Biking the Candler Park and Little Five Points One of Atlanta’s earliest automobile communities. communities. Filled with large old 5.2 miles, Moderate ...... 82 homes, winding streets, and pocket parks. 10 Midtown 4.0 miles, Moderate ...... 127 Walking, Running, Biking Early 20th-century residential commun - 15 Virginia-Highland & ity near Peachtree Road and Piedmont Morningside Park. Walking, Running, Biking 3.1 miles, Easy–Moderate...... 89 Two mid-20th century residential areas featuring craftsman bungalows and cus- 11 Peachtree Promenade tom designed houses. Popular shopping Walking, Running and dining area. Historic Peachtree Street and West 6.3 miles, Moderate ...... 134 Peachtree from the Fox Theatre District to Pershing Point. 16 Druid Hills 4.0 miles, Easy–Moderate...... 96 Walking, Running, Biking A park-like, early 20th century neigh - 12 Georgia Tech borhood designed by Frederick Law Walking, Running, Biking Olmsted. Elegant estate homes, Druid Historic college campus, site of Tech Hills Golf Club, Fernbank Museum of Tower and Dodd-Grant Field. Natural History. 4.3 miles, Moderate ...... 108 6.3 miles, Moderate ...... 142 Around Atlanta

17 Fernbank Forest 22 Atlanta History Center & Walking Buckhead’s Beautiful Homes A woodland path through an old-growth Walking, Running, Biking forest, a science center, and a natural Headquarters of the Atlanta History history museum. Center, Museum, re-created Tullie Smith 2.0 miles, Moderate ...... 151 farm complex, Swan House, and gardens. Nearby estates, including Georgia 18 Emory University Governor’s Mansion, along famous West Walking, Running, Biking Paces Ferry Road. The campus of a renowned university 6.3 miles, Moderate–Difficult...185 featuring historic buildings, performance venues, a museum, galleries, and green 23 Brookhaven spaces. Walking, Running, Biking 3.3 miles, Moderate ...... 157 Prestigious, old golf club community. National Register Historic District 19 Tanyard Creek Park & 3.7 miles, Moderate ...... 195 Brookwood Hills Walking, Running, Biking 24 Oglethorpe University & Site of the Civil War Battle of Peachtree Silver Lake Creek (1864) and a tree-shaded mid-20th Walking, Running, Biking century neighborhood. Historic college campus and nearby resi- 5.7 miles, Moderate ...... 168 dential area near a lake. 4.0 miles, Moderate ...... 200 20 Peachtree Battle Avenue & Atlanta Memorial Park 25 Chastain Park Walking, Running, Biking Walking, Running, Biking Site of the Civil War Battle of Peachtree Pleasant walk along PATH Trail through Creek (1864), tree-lined streets of large a city park with tennis center, community estates, a popular city park, and a pool, and golf course. municipal golf course named for golfing 3.5 miles, Easy ...... 207 legend Bobby Jones. 6.0 miles, Moderate ...... 175 AROUND ATLANTA 21 Garden Hills Walking, Running, Biking 26 Historic Marietta A neighborhood of large homes built in Walking, Running, Biking the 1920s and more modest bungalows Old town square and commercial district constructed during the post-Depression close to historic antebellum homes. Con- years. Community park with playground federate and National Cemeteries are and swimming pool. both nearby. 4.7 miles, Moderate–Difficult...181 5.8 miles, Moderate ...... 214 CONTENTS

27 Silver Comet Trail: 31 Historic Roswell Mavell Road to Floyd Road Walking, Running, Biking Walking, Running, Biking Old mill village with preserved antebel- Follow the route of the old “Silver lum houses including Bulloch Hall, home Comet” train on this section of the PATH of Martha Bulloch Roosevelt (mother of Foundation’s linear rail-trail through President Theodore Roosevelt). Old mill western Cobb County. ruins, shopping and dining areas. 4.2 miles (one way), add 4.5 miles, Moderate ...... 248 3.0 miles (roundtrip) for walk through Heritage Park, 32 Autrey Mill Nature Preserve Easy–Moderate...... 226 Walking Scenic woodlands surround a complex of 28 Silver Comet Trail: historic buildings. Floyd Road to Florence Road 2.2 miles, Moderate ...... 258 Walking, Running, Biking The continuation of the PATH trail pro- 33 Big Creek Greenway: vides a scenic route over Olley Creek and Alpharetta Section golf course, near Wild Horse Creek Park, Walking, Running, Biking and past Powder Springs. A thin ribbon of woodland, surrounded 7.3 miles (one way), by residential and commercial develop- Easy–Moderate...... 232 ments, winds through Piedmont forest and along the banks of meandering Big 29 Kennesaw Mountain Creek. National Battlefield Park 6.1 miles (one-way), Easy...... 262 Walking, Running, Equestrian (limited) 34 Big Creek Greenway: A Civil War national historic park with a Forsyth County Section visitor center, museum, preserved fortifi- Walking, Running, Biking cations, and network of trails. Continuation of the greenway, this sec- 2.0–16.2 miles, tion follows the creek on a winding route Moderate–Difficult...... 236 southwest of Cumming. 6.8 miles, Easy ...... 266 30 Chattahoochee Nature Center Walking 35 Dunwoody Nature Center Center offers an environmental learning Walking, Running center with displays and interpretive pro- Surrounded by residential neighbor- grams about wildlife habitats along the hoods, the center offers trails, adjacent Chattahoochee River. Trails, playscapes, gardens, gallery spaces, and wildlife exhibits, ponds. ball fields in adjacent Dunwoody Park. 2.0 miles, Easy–Moderate...... 243 2.1 miles, Easy–Moderate...... 269 Around Atlanta

36 Little Mulberry Park 41 Stone Mountain Walking, Running, Biking, Memorial Park Equestrian (limited) Walking, Running, Biking Gwinnett County park features over 12 Recreational park with 3,200 acres, the miles of trails including paved multiuse world’s largest rock carving, re-created paths, rugged woodland trails, lakeside antebellum plantation, golf course, lake, trails, and horse trails. Park features in- museums, and scenic railroad. Historic clude Miller Lake, Katrina Miller Nature walk-up trail, Cherokee Loop Trail, and Preserve, playgrounds, and picnic pavil- paved walkways. ions. 0.75-5.0 miles, Easy–Difficult....302 2.2–5.4 miles, Easy–Difficult.....274 42 Reynolds Nature Preserve 37 Suwanee Creek Greenway Walking Walking, Running, Biking Woodland preserve with interpretive Linear park, with paved and graveled center, ponds, and historic buildings. trails, follows course of Suwanee Creek 3.5 miles, Easy–Moderate...... 310 east of Old Town Suwanee. 4.7 miles (one-way), 43 Historic Jonesboro Easy–Moderate...... 278 Walking, Running, Biking Site of an 1864 Civil War battle, antebel- 38 South Peachtree Creek PATH lum and Victorian houses, and Confeder- Trail and Clyde Shepherd ate Cemetery. Nearby Lovejoy and Nature Preserve Fitzgerald plantations. Walking, Running, Biking 3.8 miles, Easy ...... 314 Linear PATH trail, multipurpose DeKalb Co. park, and nature preserve along 44 Sweetwater Creek State Park South Peachtree Creek and wetlands. Walking 4.8 miles, Easy ...... 282 Ruins of Civil War era textile mill, creekside and hillside trails, state-of-the-art 39 Historic Decatur LEED Certified visitor center. Walking, Running, Biking 5.8 miles, Moderate–Difficult...322 Small-town atmosphere, campus of Agnes Scott College, historic buildings, 45 Panola Mountain and pioneer cemetery. State Conservation Park 6.0 miles, Moderate ...... 288 Walking Mountain, Woodland, Rock Outcrop, 40 Avondale Estates and Fitness Trails. Visitor center with ex- Walking, Running, Biking hibits and interpretive programs. A 1920s planned community and Nation- 2.0–5.5 miles, al Register Historic District. Moderate–Difficult...... 326 4.4 miles, Easy ...... 294 CONTENTS

46 Davidson—Arabia Mountain 50 Cochran Shoals & Nature Preserve Powers Island Units Walking, Running Walking, Running, Biking Designated a National Heritage Area, Jogging and fitness course; mountain this ancient rock outcrop area features and floodplain trails. rare plant life, unique geological fea- 3.1–4.6 miles, tures, and historic quarry sites. Nature Moderate–Difficult...... 352 center offers educational programs and gallery spaces. 51 Sope Creek Unit 5.8 miles, Walking, Running, Biking Moderate–Strenuous ...... 330 Historic mill ruins, Sibley Pond, woodland trails. 47 Cochran Mill Nature Preserve 5.1 miles, Moderate ...... 356 & Park Walking, Running 52 Johnson Ferry Unit Fulton County Park features a nature Walking, Running center with exhibits, classrooms, and Floodplain trail, boat ramp, put-in for activities adjacent to woodlands and boat and raft trips. historic mill ruins. 2.5 miles, Easy ...... 360 4.6 miles, Moderate–Difficult...335 53 Gold Branch Unit CHATTAHOOCHEE RIVER Walking, Running NATIONAL RECREATION AREA Rugged forest trails bordering Bull Sluice Lake and the Chattahoochee River. CRNRA Introduction ...... 342 4.2 miles, Moderate–Difficult...... 363 48 Palisades West Unit Walking, Running 54 Vickery Creek Unit Paces Mill Trail, open meadow, take-out Walking, Running point for raft trips. Hillside and creekside trails, ruins of 6.1 miles, Roswell Mill dam. Near historic Roswell. Moderate–Difficult...... 345 4.5 miles, Moderate–Difficult...... 366 49 Palisades East Unit Walking, Running 55 Island Ford Unit Mountain and floodplain loop trail and Walking, Running scenic overlook. Floodplain and hillside trails, rock out- 3.0–5.0 miles, croppings, boat launch area, Chatta- Moderate–Difficult...... 348 hoochee River National Recreation Area headquarters and visitor center. 3.0 miles, Moderate ...... 371 Chattahoochee River National Recreation Area

56 Medlock Bridge Unit Walking, Running Rolling hills, thick forest, and open floodplain—a diverse wildlife habitat. 3.0 miles, Easy–Moderate...... 374

57 Jones Bridge Unit Walking, Running Ruins of the old bridge and scenic view of the Chattahoochee River. 6.8 miles, Easy–Moderate...... 377

Selected bibliography...... 380 Index...... 383 PREFACE

life, and to linger while enjoying Revisit Favorite sights, sounds, and aromas. The Atlanta area’s rolling terrain and Walks, Explore moderate climate make it an enjoyable place in which to walk during New Trails any season of the year. We have been exploring Atlanta on foot since 1985, when we began researching our original guide, Atlanta’s Urban Trails. The debut of Atlanta Walks in 1993 provided a selection of the city’s favorite treks in an updated, single volume. As Atlanta has continued to grow through the years, we have revisited many areas, Come explore Atlanta on foot and updating chapters to make each as discover the many facets of this city timely and accurate as possible. Also, with its colorful past, fast-paced we have not forgotten runners and present, and dynamic future. Walk bicyclists and have noted the routes in the shadows of an ever-changing most suitable to their interests. skyline, stroll quiet streets lined with Now we are pleased to introduce old Victorian houses, cross the cam- the fourth, revised and expanded puses of a half dozen universities, or edition of Atlanta Walks. In addition meander through thick forests abun- to updating existing chapters, we dant with wildlife. have added seven new destinations, Hear fading echoes of marching including a trek through historic troops along the paths of Civil War Midtown, new sections of the Silver xii battles from Kennesaw Mountain Comet and Big Creek Greenway to Inman Park, and Utoy Creek to Trails, a signature Gwinnett County Jonesboro. Or trace the origins of the Park on Little Mulberry Creek, and civil rights movement from Sweet a popular linear park near Suwanee. Auburn—the birthplace of Dr. Martin For each walk, we provide Global Luther King, Jr.—to the campuses of Positioning System (GPS) coordinates the Atlanta University Center. for the starting points (recorded on Walking provides the opportunity a DeLorme PN-20 GPS unit using to meet people who give a city its TOPO USA 7.0 software). Preface Like so many cities, Atlanta strug- Space does not permit us to indi- gles to balance the often opposing vidually thank the dozens of people interests of growth and preservation. who have helped us create this guide. By exploring on foot, we invite you Representatives from neighborhood to experience Atlanta’s historic associations, historical preservation places and scenic parks ﬁrsthand, societies, libraries, state and national offering a true sense of the fabric of parks, and colleges provided invalu- the city. We believe this experience is able assistance for which we are truly indispensable to those who wish to grateful. Thanks also to Margaret understand the necessary balance Quinlin, Kathy Landwehr, Phyllis between Atlanta’s development and Mueller, Melanie McMahon Ives, its natural and architectural her- Loraine Joyner, Jessica Alexander, itage. We hope this guide will aid in Kate DePalma, Sarah Doss, and all fostering this understanding. We of the staff at Peach tree Publishers have also launched our website, who shared our dream and turned it www.davisguides.com to provide infor- into a reality. Special thanks also to mation on our current books, up- the many organization and commu- coming projects, book signings and nity leaders who enthusiastically presentations, guided walks, photog- helped us gather information and, raphy galleries, and other informa- when needed, gave us directions. tion to enhance your explorations. With any project there are always We hope you will visit often and individuals who provide the inspira- share your comments and ideas for tion to take on the task and the new places to discover. encouragement to persevere. In our For many years, Atlanta’s leaders case, there were two. The ﬁrst was worked to earn a place for Atlanta our longtime friend and walking com- among the world’s great cities. panion, the late Dr. Richard Blum- Vibrant street life, diverse culture, berg, who showed us that walking and pedestrian accessibility are hall- was a mental and physical exercise to marks of these world-class destina- be shared by all generations. The sections, yet these characteristics were ond is our son, Nelson. We began often overlooked in Atlanta’s early this adventure when he was only a development. Atlanta moved closer toddler. Now he and his wife, Alyson, xiii to attaining these qualities when it enjoy using the guide as they under- was selected to host the 1996 Centen- take their own explorations of Atlanta nial Olympic Games, making the and share their new discoveries. many structural and cultural changes necessary to host such a truly world- class event. Still, much more needs to be done to make the city a genuinely pedestrian-friendly community. HOW TO USE THIS GUIDE

and other walks in the area. A map Discover accompanies each chapter with the cardinal direction denoted and each Atlanta’s walk route shaded with numerical symbols for historical markers and Treasures notable houses, sites, and buildings.

ABBREVIATIONS AND SYMBOLS NR National Register of Historic Places

NL National Historic Landmark

Historical markers (l designated by number in circle on maps) This guidebook covers 58 walks in 57 chapters, spanning nearly 270 miles Notable Places around metro Atlanta. The treks are (n designated by grouped into four sections: Intown, number in square Near Town, Around Town, and on maps) the Chattahoochee River National Recreation Area. MARTA Each chapter includes: location and directions to the area; trail distance; starting point GPS coordi- Paved path nates; terrain details and orienting xiv area features; parking tips; informa- Unpaved path or trail tion about area public transportation (if available); historical background for the area; numbered locations of and information about historical markers and notable houses, sites, and buildings; special features and events listed by month of occurrence; nearby attractions; THE PATH FOUNDATION

multiuse trails accessible from nearly Non-Profit anywhere in the city, with more in planning and development. Group Creates Their first project was the 18-mile- long Stone Mountain–Atlanta Paths for Greenway Trail, stretching from the west entrance of Stone Mountain Pedestrians Park in DeKalb County to Greenbriar Mall in southwest Atlanta. Portions and Bicyclists of the trail follow marked sidewalks, while others are dedicated paths meandering through parks and green spaces. The system is marked by PATH signs and is patrolled on foot or bike by both volunteer “trail rangers” and local police officers. Established in 1991, the PATH Foun- One especially scenic and historic dation is a private, nonprofit organi- part of the Stone Mountain–Atlanta zation dedicated to enhancing the trail follows the once-proposed pedestrian experience in Atlanta. route of Freedom Parkway, a highly With the aid of corporate contribu- controversial road project that was tions, private donations, and gov- planned to link downtown Atlanta ernment grants, PATH plans to with the Jimmy Carter Presidential create a network of trails that tie the Center. After years of neighborhood city together. opposition to the major roadway, a In their own words, PATH envi- smaller-scale project was completed sions “a ribbon of urban oasis wind- but miles of graded right-of-way ing its way through neighborhoods, were simply abandoned. PATH and xv shopping areas, and commercial the neighborhood groups saw this as districts . . . alongside streams and an opportunity to create a pedes- woodlands . . . (and) historic land- trian corridor connecting the Center marks. . . .” The PATH network of and its adjacent, historically rich trails is becoming a reality. By com- neighborhoods of Inman Park and bining newly constructed paths with Candler Park with the nearby historic existing sidewalks, the foundation and scenic community of Druid has created an expanding network of Hills. The resulting footpath winds THE PATH FOUNDATION past Victorian homes and along For more information about the the edge of the Candler Park Golf PATH Foundation, its projects, and Course. trail maps and guides, contact the Another long stretch of the Stone PATH Foundation, 404-875-7284; Mountain–Atlanta trail meanders www.pathfoundation.org. Maps of the through woodlands and past resi- Stone Mountain–Atlanta Greenway dential areas on a 5-mile concrete Trail and Silver Comet Trail are avail- ribbon connecting Clarkston with able for a small fee. Stone Mountain Village. From there it is only a short walk to the entrance of Stone Mountain Park. PATH continues to expand its network. The Trolley Line Trail follows a southerly 7-mile course that links with the Stone Mountain–Atlanta Greenway Trail near Atlanta Medical Center and Agnes Scott College. A 3.5-mile loop trail in Atlanta’s Chas- tain Park is also included in this guide. The foundation’s most ambi- tious and longest trail is the Silver Comet, extending westward nearly 62 miles from Smyrna to the Ala- bama state line where it links with the Chief Ladiga Trail. Southeast of the city, a paved multiuse trail links Panola Mountain State Conservation Park and Davidson-Arabia Mountain Nature Preserve. To the west, the Lionel Hampton and Westside PATH Trails connect popular city parks with the Atlanta University campus. xvi Even more important than scenic and historic attractions found along PATH trails are the people. From dawn to dusk, the paths are alive with walkers, joggers, in-line skaters, and bicyclists, all enjoying the benefits of exercise and the renewal of a sense of community that is essential for a healthy, livable city. THE BELT LINE PROJECT

“belt line” as a vehicle for revitalizing Bringing to many in-town neighborhoods, providing parks and green spaces, while Life a Vision at the same time offering opportunities for mixed use developments for New City along the 22-mile-long rail corridor. In 2004, Atlanta Mayor Shirley Parks and Franklin and the City Council endorsed the concept and commiss - Greenspaces ioned a financial feasibility study of the green space opportunities. At the same time, MARTA conducted its own study of the potential links between proposed light-rail lines along the Belt Line with the existing MARTA rapid-rail system. A century ago, Atlanta was the rail- A year later, Mayor Franklin cre- way transportation hub of the South - ated the Belt Line Partnership to facil- east, with nearly 1,000 trains traveling itate short and long-range planning, through or around the city each day. and to develop the sources of public Atlanta was crisscrossed and encir- and private sector funding needed to cled by a “belt line” of rails. After turn the vision into reality. The first World War II, highways began to five-year plan was approved in 2006. replace these ribbons of steel and Despite the effects of the financial eventually, many of the railroad recession and other complications, routes around Atlanta were aban- development of the first portions of doned and forgotten, becoming the project are underway with com- weed-infested eyesores. pletion of a trail east of Piedmont xvii In 1999, Georgia Tech graduate Park, linking the historic Old Fourth student Ryan Gravel proposed Ward and Glenwood Park; a path reclaiming these neglected proper- near Westview Cemetery that mean- ties, utilizing them to create a multi- ders southeast toward Hillside Park; use corridor of trails, parks, and and a paved trail connecting Atlanta light-rail transit lines connecting Memorial Park and Ardmore Park. more than 45 communities sur- Gravel’s master’s thesis became rounding the city. He envisioned the the genesis for what is, today, a THE BELT LINE PROJECT $2.5 billion, 25-year project that has been described as the “most comprehensive economic development effort ever undertaken in the City of Atlanta and among the largest, most wide-ranging urban development projects currently underway in the United States.” It is certainly our hope that future editions of this guide will profile the parks and trails planned along the Belt Line. For section maps of the Belt Line, to schedule a guided van tour, or to get the latest information on the project’s development, visit www. beltline.org.

xviii NORTH NORTH SPRINGS [P] LINE n11 n10 SANDY SPRINGS [P] I-75 n9 DUNWOODY [P] NORTHEAST I-285 nE10 LINE n8 MEDICAL DORAVI LLE [P] CENTER [P] nE9 CHAMBLEE [P] ¢

N BUCKHEAD n7 I-85 nE8 BROOKHAVEN [P] MARTA MARTA System Map nE7 LENOX [P]

n6 LINDBERGH CENTER [P] (Transfer Point)

I-285 n5 ARTS CENTER

n4 MIDTOWN

GEORGIA DOME/GWCC HAMILTON E. HOLMES

BAN

n3 NORTH AVENUE I-285 HIGHTOWER [P] KHEAD

WEST LAKE [P] VINE CITY [P]

n2 CIVIC CENTER I-20 P4 n1 PEACHTREE CENTER EAST WEST W5 W4 W3 W2 W1 e1 e2 e3 e4 e5 e6 e7 e8 e9 GEORGIA ST KING MEMORIAL INMAN PARK EDGE EAST LAKE [P] DECATUR AVO KENSINGTON [P] INDIAN REYNOLDST CANDLER PARK [P] CREEK [P] LINE GARNETT S1 LINE

NDALE [P] WEST END [P] S2 WOO ASHBY [P] I-20 OAKLAND CITY [P] S3 D ATE LAKEWOOD S4 OWN FORT McPHERSON [P] EAST POINT [P] S5 [P] COLLEGE PARK [P] S6 HARTSFIELD-JACKSON INTERNATI ONAL AIRPORT | S7 I-285

I-75 SOUTH I-85 FIVE POINTS STATION xix LINE (Transfer Point) [P] Station with Free Parking

Information on MARTA rail and bus schedules is available at 404-848-5000; www.itsmarta.com. Locator Map pg. xx

33-34 MAN SELL RD

32 31 30 ROSWELL

54 57 56 I-75 53 GA 120 PEACHTREEINDUSTRIAL BLVD MARIETTA 55 L R O 29 26 OS W Trail Locator Map W ER 37 ELL RD WELL RD

52 ¢ GA 400 35 36

JOHNSON ROSFY US 41 51 N

S C O B 50 B D R R

EAST D

-WEST CO D E N R 49 N 25 E

E E C 24 R

T 48 D T

OR I

S 23 H 27-28 C H A

T E

R P

O I-85

N BUCKHEAD 38 22 20 21 41 15 18 US 78 I-285 19 14 13 STONE MOUNTAIN 17 DECATUR 12 11 10 16 39 BANKHEAD HWY R DOWNTOWN 40 PONCE DE LEON AVE IVE R 1 9 E 2 ATLANTA E 6 8 I-20 H C O 3 44 O H 7 D A R T 4 I-20 AT L H 5 E C P I-285 A H C Y LE ES W 46

I-675 SNAPFINGER RD 47 I-85 I-75

45 42

GA 54

43 JONESBORO

Numbers correspond to walk numbers. TIPS FOR THE TREK

Strong heel support: Walking Start Your puts pressure on the heel as you stride, so make sure the shoe’s heel Walk ‘On the is well built with quality materials and construction. Right Foot’ Shock absorbency: Examine the composition of the sole. It should absorb the impact of walking and dis- perse the shock. The materials should not be so soft as to feel fluffy, nor so hard as to accelerate foot fatigue. Comfort: Fit is critical. When trying on shoes, wear socks of the same thickness as those you will wear while walking. Shoes should have a snug heel and instep, but not tight, with Today, more than 60 million Ameri- room in the toe box for the toes to cans enjoy recreational walking. wriggle. Shoes that are too tight or Whether as part of a planned fitness too loose may cause blisters. Shoes program or simply for enjoyment should feel comfortable; it is impor- and recreation, a long walk can be tant to walk around the store to good for body and soul. Whether check shoe comfort. Different brands you are setting out for a leisurely of shoes will fit your feet differently. stroll through the neighborhood or Traction: Consider the surface an all-day hike, a little advance plan- of the area you plan to walk. A walk- ning is needed to ensure comfort, ing shoe or cross trainer with athletic safety, and pleasure. shoe soles are good for walking on The following tips will get a good sidewalks, paved multi-use trails, 1 walking program off on the “right and boardwalks, but the tread of a foot.” lug type sole is needed when hiking in the woods, especially on unpaved SHOE SELECTION or rugged trails with changes in For frequent walks or long hikes, a elevation. pair of high-quality walking shoes is Workmanship: Examine the essential. shoe’s construction for quality. Look Things to look for include: at the stitching between the sole and TIPS FOR THE TREK the upper part of the shoe. Leather miliar landscapes. For most, it is the “uppers” are ideal for flexibility and fun of plotting coordinates and trac- to promote air circulation. ing routes as they walk, while others Value: High-quality shoes range in join in more structured activities like cost from $75.00 to about $150.00. orienteering and geocaching. Orienteering involves navigating PREPARING TO WALK a route with map and compass by A number of items are important following a predetermined set of to think about before your walking way points. It can be enjoyed individ- adventure begins. ually, in groups, and even in timed Loosen up. Stretching is an impor- competitions. To learn more, con- tant part of a walking program, as it tact the Georgia Orienteering Club is with any exercise. It is best to first at www.gaorienteering.org. take a short walk to loosen muscles Geocaching has become increas- and then stretch for 5 to 10 minutes. ingly popular with the availability of While stretching, focus on your lower affordable GPS units. Like scavenger back, hamstrings, calves, arms, hunts from days gone by, geocachers upper torso, and abdomen. provide GPS coordinates and clues Build endurance gradually. Those to the location of hidden objects who are beginning a walking pro- (usually a waterproof container with gram should take it easy at first. logbook and small objects) in parks Walking the routes that are appro- and public places in the U.S. and priate for your physical ability will around the world. Searchers are yield the most benefit and the most invited to use coordinates to find the pleasure. It is vital to build up cache, sign the book, and trade an endurance gradually. object in the box for one they are Plan for weather and bring water. carrying. While the caches are at or A daypack containing a rain jacket, near the provided coordinate, they water and snack foods is important are often well hidden, and solving for long hikes. the clues is necessary for finally Cool down. After a long walk, it is locating them. New geocaches are a good idea to cool down with gen- being added all the time and many 2 tle stretches. may be found along the walks profiled in this guide. To learn more EXPLORING WITH COMPASS, about geocaching and begin your MAP AND GPS searches, visit www.geocaching.com. A growing number of outdoor enthusiasts are utilizing compasses, topo- WALKING WITH CHILDREN graphical maps, and GPS units to Tips for Parents enhance their adventures, whether on We learn some of what we hear; well-established trails or across unfa- we learn more when we read and listen; Walking with Children but we learn the most when we experi- “What did you do. . . ?” For the older ence activities as part of a significant student, they provide a great refer- group. ence for learning Georgia history. Walking can be great family exer- For everyone, these are a wonderful cise as well as an opportunity to keepsake of inexpensive family share time together while learning the adventures that will be rich in mem- history of an area or enjoying the ories of times spent together. beauty of nature. To make walks a It is easy to include infants and great learning experience, pick a toddlers in the fun; simply put them chapter in advance and read it as a in a backpack or stroller and take family. Pick out sights from the begin- off. (In cool weather, remember that ning, middle, and end that you know these children are not exercising and will interest your child. When children need to be dressed warmly.) Once are younger it may be the different the children are old enough to walk shapes of buildings or where a trail on their own, involving them in the makes a zig-zag, connects with walk can be both challenging and another trail, or reaches water. rewarding. Remember, while adults As children prepare for fourth may walk for both physical and men- grade’s introduction to Georgia his- tal fitness, children may not under- tory and eight grade’s year-long study stand these intangible benefits and of Georgia history, it may be the may need a different motivation. homes or sites of historical figures, Children do not have the same level locations of the Civil War battles, or of stamina as most adults, so modify places where transportation influ- the walk time and distance accord- enced the development of Atlanta. ingly. Children also have a tendency Turn the walk into the child’s adven- to run and then rest, so allow ample ture by drawing a map with the loca- time for breaks during the walk. tions you chose in advance and let Remember to refresh children often the child act as the pathfinder and with water and snacks to keep their lead others to the targets. Take plenty energy levels and spirits high. of pictures, especially when you reach Walking with young children may the marked destinations. mean compromising on the benefits Shortly after you return home, that adults seek from the exercise, 3 write a family story about what you but it can be a marvelous time to saw and talked about on your walk. share in children’s curiosity and Include downloaded photographs in wonder about the world around the stories. For the beginning reader, them. Some ways to challenge kids these stories will be great fun to on a nature walk include: learn to read. For the elementary- Carry a bird, animal, or plant aged student these are a wonderful guide: Spend time identifying things resource for the assigned essays of seen along the path, learn about TIPS FOR THE TREK different habitats, and if appropri- and locate the identified sites. Not ate, bring some specimens home only will your students gain the rich- to study. ness of experiences out of the class- Take an environmental walk: room that combine map reading skills Carry a plastic bag and pick up trash and viewing sites of historical events or collect items for recycling. and people, but the parents of your When walks are planned to take students will get to know you better, into account each person’s physical which always improves the impor- conditioning and interests, walking tant trust relationship between can be a joyful experience for all gen- home and teachers. erations of the family. Recommend the “Tips for Parents” (see previous section) that A GUIDE FOR TEACHERS are age appropriate for the children. Author’s note: Italicized words below Engage students to use the informa- are social studies objectives. tion from the book to develop time- lines and organize events chronologi- Bringing history alive for your stu- cally that form Atlanta’s history. dents happens best when you experi- Challenge students to draw conclu- ence first-hand the places where sions and make generalizations of how historical activities took place. While transportation has affected political you explore the walks in this book, decisions in the development of take lots of photos and include your Atlanta. Watch the richness of the pictures in your classroom lessons to students’ writings develop when they tell the stories of geographic terms, report about a common experience the influence of geography on our his- with three of their most significant tory, the importance of transporta- life groups: their families, their class- tion in the development of many mates, and their teacher. parts of Atlanta’s history, the effects of man on our geography and the loca- A SELECTION OF ADVENTURE tion of historic events. WALKS WITH CHILDREN In these days of reduced school Chapter 4: funds and reduced hours in school, Outdoor Activity Center 4 it may not be easy to take a class Chapter 6: field trip during school, so consider Oakland Cemetery offering to guide a walk from the Chapter 7: book on a weekend day, inviting the Grant Park students’ families to join you. Show Chapter 12: the use of latitude and longitude with a Georgia Tech GPS unit to identify the beginning Chapter 13: point of the walk. Have students use Piedmont Park & cardinal directions to read the map Atlanta Botanical Garden Bicycling Chapter 17: Chapter 46: Fernbank Forest Davidson-Arabia Mountain Chapter 18: Nature Preserve Emory University [PATH Trail section] Chapter 25: Chapter 47: Chastain Park Cochran Mill [PATH Trail section] Nature Preserve & Park Chapter 27: Chapter 50: Silver Comet Trail — CRNRA Cochran Shoals & Mavell Road to Floyd Road Powers Island Units Chapter 28: [Fitness Trail] Silver Comet Trail — Floyd Road to Florence Road BICYCLING Chapter 30: Many of the trails described in this Chattahoochee book follow lightly traveled streets Nature Center or paved multiuse trails that are Chapter 32: ideal for bicycling as well as walking. Autrey Mill Nature Preserve Bike travelers may find it helpful to Chapter 33: link several neighboring trails for Big Creek Greenway — an extended ride. A few tips for Alpharetta Section riding in and around Atlanta are Chapter 34: important: Big Creek Greenway — Always wear a helmet: Wearing a Forsyth County Section helmet is an important part of safe Chapter 35: bicycling. A high percentage of bicy- Dunwoody Nature Center cling-related fatalities are due to Chapter 36: head injuries. Little Mulberry Park Ride with the flow of traffic: Use Chapter 37: designated bicycle lanes if they are Suwanee Creek Greenway provided. If you are riding in a group Chapter 38: in a heavily trafficked area, travel sin- South Peachtree Creek gle file. PATH Trail & Clyde Shepherd Obey all traffic rules: Use hand 5 Nature Preserve signals at intersections. When in Chapter 41: doubt, give the automobile the right- Stone Mountain Park of-way. Chapter 42: Station adults at front and back Reynolds Nature Preserve of group: If you are riding with chil- Chapter 45: dren, it is best to position an adult Panola Mountain at the front of the group and one at State Conservation Park the back. TIPS FOR THE TREK Be visible: If you will be riding in Below are a few walks, or por- poor visibility, wear reflective vests or tions of walks, from the guide that clothing, and make sure the bicycles are most accessible for the mobility have reflectors. impaired due to limited traffic Do not wear earplug audio and well-maintained sidewalks and devices: Avoid any devices that curbing: might hinder you from hearing. Use designated routes. If you are Chapter 2: traveling on wooded paths, follow Atlanta University Center designated routes to minimize dam- Chapter 9: age to the surrounding environment. Freedom Park, Candler Park Most importantly, have fun! and Little Five Points Chapter 12: ACCESSIBILITY Georgia Tech FOR DISABLED PERSONS Chapter 13: The occurrence and quality of side- Piedmont Park & walks in Atlanta is inconsistent: Side- Atlanta Botanical Garden walk pavement is often broken and Chapter 17: uneven because of tree roots growing Fernbank Forest [section] beneath it, while construction and Chapter 18: repair projects often keep sidewalks Emory University and streets inaccessible to disabled Chapter 24: persons. Oglethorpe University & Well-maintained curb ramps Silver Lake [campus section] and sidewalks are generally found Chapter 25: throughout downtown Atlanta, Chastain Park [PATH Trail] but are less frequent in the suburbs. Chapter 27: Therefore, for disabled persons, Silver Comet Trail — finding an accessible, non-down- Mavell Road to Floyd Road town route to explore may pose a Chapter 28: Silver Comet Trail — challenge. Floyd Road to Florence Road All government buildings, most Chapter 33: 6 commercial buildings, and museums Big Creek Greenway — are required by law to be accessible Alpharetta Section to the disabled, although their sur- Chapter 34: rounding area and approach may Big Creek Greenway — not be. For best results, before set- Forsyth County Section ting out for your adventure, drive Chapter 36: the route you want to explore and Little Mulberry Park evaluate area accessibility conditions [paved trails] for yourself. Accessibility for Disabled Persons Chapter 37: Suwanee Creek Greenway [paved sections] Chapter 38: South Peachtree Creek PATH Trail [section] Chapter 40: Avondale Estates Chapter 41: Stone Mountain Park [paved sections] Chapter 46: Davidson-Arabia Mountain Nature Preserve [PATH trail section] Chapter 50: CRNRA Cochran Shoals & Powers Island Units [Fitness Trail]

7 Sculpted ﬁgure at entrance to the Candler Building

Kiser mausoleum at Oakland Cemetery overlooking downtown Atlanta INTOWN

Martin Luther King, Jr. and Coretta Scott King tomb

Chastain Park PATH Trail INTOWN C H A P T E R 1

TERRAIN Atlanta Underground Atlanta sits between two parallel ridges. Heritage Trails: The State Capitol stands atop one, and the Russell Federal Building Skyline & stands atop the other. From Five Points the terrain climbs northward Sweet Auburn to the crest of Peachtree St. and then descends to Peachtree Center Ave. Auburn Ave. descends to the interstate highway underpass before moderately climbing to the King His- toric District Visitor Center. The return along Edgewood is a modest climb to Woodruff Park.

LOCATION DRIVING DIRECTIONS This walk has two parts. The first Take I-75/85 to Martin Luther part (Skyline) is a tour through the King, Jr. Dr. (exit 248 A), then drive heart of downtown that begins on west to Central Ave. to reach Under- Upper Alabama St. at Underground ground Atlanta. To reach the King Atlanta. Historic District, take I-75/85 to Free- GPS: N33.46.561/W84.22.660) dom Pkwy. (exit 248 C or D), travel The second part (Sweet Auburn) east to Boulevard, then turn right is a loop through the Martin Luther (south) to Irwin St. Turn right; park- King, Jr. National Historic District ing is on the right. and the Sweet Auburn neighbor- 10 hood. It begins at the visitor center Parking of the Martin Luther King, Jr. A covered parking garage is adjacent National Historic Site. to Underground Atlanta. The GPS: N33.45.328/W84.22.399 entrance is on Martin Luther King, Jr. Dr. There are numerous commercial TRAIL DISTANCE parking lots throughout downtown. Skyline is about 4.4 miles. There is a large parking lot for the Sweet Auburn is about King Historic District on Irwin St., 2.5 miles. between Boulevard and Jackson St. Atlanta Heritage Trails PUBLIC TRANSPORTATION an upstairs bedroom of a modest The Five Points MARTA rail home on Auburn Ave. station is directly across For centuries, the lands along Peachtree St. from Underground the Chattahoochee River had served Atlanta. A pedestrian tunnel con- as the boundary between the Chero- nects the station to Underground kee and Creek Nations. Few white Atlanta. The Peachtree Center sta- traders entered the wilderness, tion is also located along the Skyline and there were no permanent settle- part of this walk. King Memorial sta- ments in the area until construction tion is four blocks south of the King of Fort Peach tree during the War of Visitor Center. MARTA: 404-848- 1812, located near the confluence of 5000; www.itsmarta.com Peachtree Creek and the Chatta- hoochee River near the Indian village BACKGROUND of Standing Peachtree. An 1821 treaty The Five Points intersection—the with the Creeks opened up these symbolic heart of Atlanta—brings lands, and the village of Decatur was together Peachtree, Decatur, and established in 1827. Few ventured far Marietta Sts. Within a few paces of into this remote and rugged wilder- this intersection, Atlanta’s early his- ness, and the area remained sparsely tory unfolded. Hardy Ivy, the area’s settled with only a few farms, mills, first white settler, built a crude cabin and inns along the rough Newnan– in 1833 in nearly unbroken forest and Decatur Rd. In 1836, the state legisla- settled there with his wife and five ture approved a plan to establish a children. Four years later, engineer rail line north toward Tennessee that Stephen H. Long, a native of New would connect with the existing rail- Hampshire, studied crude maps to way line moving inland from Augusta. determine where he would strike the The Western and Atlantic Railroad terminus marker for a proposed rail- (W. & A. R.R.) was chartered. road to Tennessee. That year, 1837, In September 1837, after studying marked the city’s founding. Not long the terrain, Stephen Long and his afterward, in 1864, Atlanta heard the team pegged the zero-mile post of hellish roar of Union cannons as they the northern line near the present- rained death and destruction over day World Congress Center on 11 the city and her Rebel defenders. Andrew Young International Blvd. The city’s rebirth following the (The stone marker was later relo- Civil War was heralded in 1886 by cated to its present site adjacent to newspaper editor Henry Grady, who Underground Atlanta). To support said, “We have raised a brave and the construction crews, the village of beautiful city.” Another phase in the Terminus grew up around the Five city’s history began in 1929, when Points intersection. Rough and Martin Luther King, Jr. was born in rowdy as the laborers it supported, INTOWN the settlement was “Atlanta” was enthu- more akin to the siastically adopted. Wild West than the Railroad executives Old South; taverns claimed the name outnumbered was the feminine churches. form of the word Despite its rough- Atlantic. ness, Terminus grew By the 1850s, as more settlers— Atlanta’s population visionaries, really— topped 7,000, and came to build a city railroad expansion that would become spurred its continued the hub of an growth as a regional expand ing railroad trade and transporta- network. Congress- tion center. The out- man Alexander H. Atlanta City Hall break of the Civil Stephens, traveling War in 1861 brought through the area in 1839, commented, increased importance as Atlanta “a magnificent inland city will at became the supply depot and arsenal no distant date be built here.” On of the Confederacy. Pres. Abraham Christmas Day in 1842, the locomotive Lincoln recognized Atlanta’s strategic Florida carried revelers on its inaugu- significance—Gen. Sherman’s capture ral 22-mile run to Marietta, though of the city in September 1864, after a two more years elapsed before regu- long and bloody siege, assured Lin- lar rail service began. Honoring Geor- coln’s reelection. gia Gov. Wilson Lumpkin’s daughter, The destructive effects of the in 1843 the town’s name was changed fighting around the city and the to Marthasville. In 1844, a young burning of the commercial district army lieutenant passed through by Union troops left Atlanta in total Marthasville on one of those first ruin. Today, the oldest structures in trains, heading for an assignment in the central city are the Georgia Rail- northwest Georgia. William Tecum- road Freight Depot (1869) and the 12 seh Sherman returned to the city in storefronts of Underground (1870s– 1864 as a Union Army major general. 80s). While railroads fostered the The Georgia Railroad’s first train city’s birth and destruction, they began service in 1845, connecting also fueled its rapid rebuilding. War- Marthasville with Augusta—a trip damaged lines were repaired and that took 12 hours! Later that year, at new rails laid down, extending the urging of railroad executive Atlanta’s reach across the region and Richard Peters, the name of the town the nation. In 1868, influenced by changed again when the coined word Gen. George Meade, hero of the Atlanta Heritage Trails Battle of Gettysburg and later mili- Two principals of The Coca-Cola tary governor of Georgia, the legisla- Company, first Asa Griggs Candler ture approved a plan to relocate the and later Robert Woodruff, gave state capital from Milledgeville to generously of their personal fortunes Atlanta. The government selected to support schools, libraries, hospi- the Kimball Opera House on Mari- tals, and other Atlanta institutions. etta St. as a temporary capitol. The Woodruff mostly shunned the lime- following year, the city’s population light, preferring to work through topped 20,000, and the city limits others. Atlantans came to know him were extended to a radius of 2 miles as “Mr. Anonymous Donor,” from the zero-mile post. because his gifts usually stipulated By the 1880s, Atlanta was firmly that his identity not be revealed. established as the economic center In 1887 Atlanta adopted a new of “the New South,” a term Atlanta city seal inscribed RESURGENS and Constitution editor Henry Grady used displaying the mythical phoenix aris- to describe a region devoted to bal- ing from flames. In 1889, the grand ancing its agricultural strength with new State Capitol building on the new growth in commerce and indus- grounds of the old Fulton County try. Grady traveled the country solic- Courthouse was completed. Noted iting support for the South’s rebuild- today for its glistening dome of ing efforts and earned the respect Dahlonega-mined gold (first applied of civic and business leaders. Follow- in 1958), the building anchors the ing Grady’s death in 1889 at the age downtown government district. of 39 (he succumbed to pneumonia At the 20th century’s turn, Atlan - after a trip to Boston), Atlanta’s ta’s population reached 100,000, grateful citizens erected a memorial and commercial expansion pushed statue of him at Marietta and northward along Peachtree St., For syth Sts. facing Five Points. forcing some of the city’s grandest In 1886, the small soda fountain homes to give way to an architec- in Jacob’s Drugstore at the corner of tural innovation, the skyscraper. Peachtree and Marietta Sts. began During the following 100 years, ever dispensing a refreshing headache larger and taller structures rose, con- tonic: Dr. John Pemberton’s home- tinually changing the city’s skyline. 13 made syrup mixed with soda water. Despite strict segregation laws, The drink, which Pemberton called many black Atlantans also pros- “Coca-Cola,” became one of the most pered. Most notable was ex-slave recognized products in the world, Alonzo Herndon, who opened a and the wealth it generated for its small barbershop on Peachtree St. in subsequent owners, the Candler and the early 1880s that expanded into a Woodruff families, continues to fuel chain of shops and made Herndon Atlanta’s commercial growth. the city’s wealthiest black citizen. In INTOWN

Centennial Olympic Park sculpture 1904, to meet the needs of a growing led to Morehouse College and black middle class, Herndon founded Boston University, then to a pas- Atlanta Mutual Insurance Company torate in Montgomery, Alabama. (later Atlanta Life Insurance Com- There, his leadership in a 1956 bus pany). Today, Atlanta Life, with its boycott put him in the national spot- headquarters on Auburn Ave., is one light. He returned to Atlanta as a of the largest black-owned compa- leader and spokesperson for the non- nies in the nation. Herndon’s luxuri- violent civil rights movement, and for ous former home near the campus of his tireless efforts he was awarded Clark Atlanta University is now a the Nobel Peace Prize in 1964. After museum. (See #2.) his assassination in Memphis in 1968, The landmarks that line Auburn national leaders and mourners of all Ave. attest to its importance in the races joined his mule-drawn funeral business, social, and religious life of procession through downtown Atlanta’s black citizens in the late Atlanta. The Martin Luther King, Jr. 19th and early 20th centuries: the for- Center for Nonviolent Social Change mer offices of the Atlanta Daily World, was established to carry on his work. Prince Hall, Big Bethel AME Church, During the Civil Rights movement of and Wheat St. and Ebenezer Baptist the 1960s, Atlanta saw less violence 14 Churches. Martin Luther King, Jr. than many other cities and benefited (MLK) was born at his family’s from the calm leadership of Mayor Auburn Ave. home on January 15, Ivan Allen, Jr. and Rev. King. During 1929. His father, Rev. Martin Luther this time, Atlanta came to be known King, Sr., known in his later years as as “the city too busy to hate.” “Daddy King,” came to Ebenezer In 1936, as Martin Luther King, Jr. Baptist Church in 1926 as an associ- was entering elementary school and ate pastor to his father-in-law, Rev. Ivan Allen was beginning his business A. D. Williams. Young MLK’s path career, Atlanta became the center Atlanta Heritage Trails of the literary universe when local Braves and the initial season of the author Margaret Mitchell’s epic NFL Falcons in 1966. Professional novel, Gone With the Wind, became basketball came to Atlanta when the a national bestseller. The book, a Hawks arrived from St. Louis, Mis- fictional account of plantation life souri, two years later, in 1968. chronicling Atlanta’s destruction dur- In 1996, Atlanta hosted the Cen- ing the Civil War and its subsequent tennial Olympic Games and wel- reconstruction, was made into a comed millions of visitors. Enduring movie starring Clark Gable and legacies of the games include Centen- Vivien Leigh. The movie made its nial Olympic Park—which features world premiere at Loew’s Grand The- the Southern Company outdoor ater in December 1939. In an interest- amphitheater and the whim sical ing historical footnote, ten-year-old Olympic Rings Fountain—and public Martin performed with the Ebenezer sculptures throughout downtown. Baptist Church choir at a grand ball The park is a gathering place for both held at the Municipal Auditorium to Atlantans and visitors and is the site celebrate the movie’s premiere. of special events throughout the year. World War II brought bond drives On March 15, 2008, as thousands and blackouts, and thousands of of fans were enjoying the Southeast- soldiers passed through nearby ern Conference Basketball Tourna- Fort McPherson. Crowds jammed ment in the Georgia Dome, a power- Peachtree St. to celebrate VE and VJ ful tornado touched down near days in 1945. In 1952, under the lead- downtown Atlanta and sped east- ership of Mayor William B. Harts- ward from the Georgia World Con- field, expansion of Atlanta’s city lim- gress Center. It caused millions of its tripled the city’s size to include dollars in damage to downtown Buckhead and Cascade Heights. By build ings before spinning through the end of the decade, the metropol- historic Oakland Cemetery (See #6.) itan area’s population topped the Remarkably, there was only one one million mark, and Atlanta was recorded fatality and injuries were poised to take its place among the few. Today only faint traces remain of nation’s premier cities. the effects of the devastating storm. The 1960s were years of change. 15 Commercial growth continued ATLANTA SKYLINE WALK unabated, highlighted by the opening of Peachtree Center in 1962, with HISTORICAL MARKERS later additions of the Merchandise 1. Underground Atlanta— Mart, the Apparel Mart, and Info- Alabama St. And Old Ala- rum. Major League sports arrived in bama St. (directly under - Atlanta during this decade with the ground from present-day Alabama relocation of baseball’s Milwaukee St.) Nearly two-dozen markers dot INTOWN the complex, providing information 14. The March to the Sea—just about the architectural significance east of City Hall on Washington St. and history of the area. 15. Memorial to Fr. Thomas 2. Zero Mile Post—beneath the O’Reilly (erected by the Atlanta His- parking garage at 90 Central Ave. torical Society, 1945)—grounds of and across the railroad tracks from Atlanta City Hall on Mitchell St. the Georgia Railroad Freight Depot 16. Thrasherville—in front of the 3. Immaculate Conception State Bar of Georgia building on Church—adjacent to the church on Marietta St. Martin Luther King, Jr. Dr. 17. The Winecoff Fire—in front of 4. Father Thomas O’Reilly—in the Ellis Hotel on Peachtree St. front of the church on Central Ave. 18. Hardy Ivy—Hardy Ivy Park 5. Fulton County Courthouse— 19. Historic Reconciliation—Hardy adjacent to the courthouse at Pryor Ivy Park St. and Martin Luther King, Jr. Dr. 20. Martin Luther King, Jr. 6. Historic Ground—lawn of National Historic District—along the State Capitol near the intersec- Auburn Ave. and other adjoining tion of Washington St. and Martin streets. The National Park Service Luther King, Jr. Dr. has placed several interpretive mark- 7. Transfer of Command— ers at significant sites. These markers adjacent to the Capitol’s west are part of the “Freedom Walk” self- entrance guided tour of the Historic District. 8. The Battle of Atlanta— 21. John C. Calhoun Remarks— adjacent to the Capitol’s west Edgewood Ave. at Park Pl. entrance 9. Siege of Atlanta—adjacent to NOTABLE PLACES the Capitol’s west entrance 1. Underground Atlanta 10. The Evacuation of Atlanta— (1870s–90s)—Alabama St. adjacent to the Capitol’s west and Old Alabama St. (Old Alabama entrance St. is directly underground from 11. John Brown Gordon—adjacent present-day Alabama St.) Now an to Gov. Gordon’s statue on the entertainment and shopping com- 16 Capitol grounds plex, the buildings that make up 12. Georgia’s Liberty Bell (replica Underground Atlanta are some of the of the original in Philadelphia)—in the oldest commercial structures in the small park adjacent to Central Pres- city and are located at the heart of byterian Church on Washington St. what was Atlanta’s business district 13. Site of Second Baptist Church during the Civil War. Most buildings Of Atlanta—in the small park adja- along Alabama and Pryor Sts. were cent to Central Presbyterian Church destroyed by Union troops in 1864; at Mitchell and Washington Sts. many of the current structures were

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- 48 1BSL 45 8454(/*314 :03 & 4 13 (14 4UBSU / "/% 45 8 - 5 & 3 4 8 454" . " # " - " 17 $06 "7& 5 8454)5:430' 8 43 %3+, - . .0/ % 1*& *-- +3 %3 4& ) & 8 454--&84&7"-"35/&$ ) $ 5* . 44 +& 8 4& 7 ": 5*/*3 5 INTOWN built to replace them. With the Post was set to mark the terminus of advent of the automobile in the early a proposed railway line to Tennessee 1900s, bridges were built over the and became the center of Atlanta. railroad tracks that crisscrossed For many years, the city limits were downtown. The old street-level measured at a uniform distance entrances of buildings were then lit- from this point. The marker remains erally underground. Used for years a tangible link to Atlanta’s railroad as storage areas and as homes to origins. NR vagrants, these forgotten spaces 3. Shrine of the Immaculate were redeveloped as commercial Conception (1873)—48 Martin Luther spaces and dubbed Underground King, Jr. Dr. During the Civil War, Fr. Atlanta, which officially opened to Thomas O’Reilly persuaded Union great fanfare in 1968. By 1980, due to officers to save this and several other financial woes and loss of space for churches from destruction. This the construction of the Five Points Gothic-style structure, designed by MARTA station, the area was again William H. Parkins, replaced the in decline. Through a public/private original 1848 building. The church joint venture with the Rouse Com- was nearly destroyed in a 1982 fire. pany, Underground Atlanta was ren- Interestingly, during the restoration, ovated and re-opened in 1988. Fr. O’Reilly’s long-forgotten tomb Historical markers located through- was found beneath the altar. NR out the complex describe individual 4. Central Presbyterian Church buildings. Hours: 10 AM–9:30 PM, (1884)—201 Washington St. This con- Mon.–Sat.; 12 PM–6 PM, Sun. gregation’s first church was built in Information: 404-523-2311; www.under 1860 and, with Fr. O’Reilly’s help, ground-atlanta.com survived the destruction of the Civil 2. Georgia Railroad Freight War. It was demolished in 1883 to Depot (1869)—Central Ave. and Mar- make way for the present Roman - tin Luther King, Jr. Dr. The oldest esque building designed by Edmund existing building in downtown G. Lind. Atlanta, the depot replaced one 5. State Capitol (1889)—206 Wash - burned by Federal troops in 1864. ington St. Designed by the Chicago 18 Now owned by the Georgia Building firm of Edbrooke and Burnham, this Authority, the depot has been grand Neoclassical building is mod- restored for use as a meeting and eled after the U.S. Capitol and was banquet facility. Across the tracks to completed on time and $118 under the north, in the Georgia Building budget. The dome was first overlaid Authority Police Station, is the Zero with Dahlonega-mined gold in 1958, Mile Post (1836), a simple granite refurbished in 1981, and gilded again marker etched with the inscription for the 1996 Olympic Games. The “W. & A. R.R. 00.” The Zero Mile Capitol’s grounds are dotted with Atlanta Heritage Trails historical markers and statues of Arts–style granite structure was important public figures. Of signifi- designed by A.Ten Eyck Brown with cance is the statue of John B. Gor- Morgan and Dillon. Across the street don, a Confederate general who later is the modern county administration became governor. It is the only eques- complex, designed by Rosser FABRAP trian statue in the city. In addition to and Turner Associates and completed government offices and legislative in 1990. NR chambers, the Capitol Building 8. Broad St. Commercial District houses exhibits from Georgia’s natu- (1880s–90s)—Broad St. between Mar - ral and human history. Prior to its tin Luther King, Jr. Dr. and Mitch ell construction, this site was occupied St. The buildings in this area are by Atlanta’s combined City Hall and examples of Atlanta’s late 19th-cen- Fulton County Courthouse, built tury commercial architecture. Of spe- in 1854. These buildings survived cial note is the Cottingim Seed Store the Civil War—again thanks to Fr. (1890) at 97 Broad St. and the Coun- O’Reilly—but were demolished in sel House Building (1898) at 142 Mit - 1883 to make way for construction ch ell St. of the Capitol. The Capitol under- 9. Concordia Hall (1893)— went a comprehensive restoration 201 Mitchell St. This brick Victorian that was completed in 2001 and is building, designed by Bruce and open daily. Hours: 8 AM–5 PM, Morgan, was constructed for the Mon.–Fri.; 10 AM–4 PM, Sat.; 12 PM– Concordia Society, a music and liter- 4 PM, Sun. Guided tours offered on ature appreciation club. The orna- weekdays. Information: 404-656- mental lyre in the pediment above 2844; www.sos.state.ga.us NR the Forsyth St. entrance is a typical 6. Atlanta City Hall (1930, Victorian architectural motif. expanded 1992)—68 Mitchell St. 10. Richard Russell Federal Designed by Lloyd Preacher, the Building (1980)—Spring St. between 14-story building is an excellent Mitchell St. and Martin Luther King, example of neo-Gothic architecture. Jr. Dr. Named for longtime Georgia The lobby’s ornate details continue Sen. Richard B. Russell, this modern the Gothic theme. On this site once high-rise granite building houses the stood the John Neal house, used by federal court and regional offices of 19 Gen. Sherman as his headquarters government agencies. Prior to con- after the city’s surrender during the struction of the building, this site Civil War. NR was for many years the location of 7. Fulton County Courthouse Atlanta’s grand Terminal Station, (1914)—136 Pryor St. (The courthouse the city’s main railway passenger sta- takes up the entire block between tion. Nearby along Mitchell St. are Pryor and Central Ave.) The largest some of the hotels built to accom- courthouse in Georgia, this Beaux modate early railroad travelers. INTOWN 11. Old U.S. Post Office (1911)— rated into the structure at Broad and 56 Forsyth St. Designed in the Sec- Alabama Sts. ond Renaissance style by A.Ten Eyck 14. Historic Five Points (1830s)— Brown, this massive granite building Peachtree, Marietta, Edgewood, and once housed both the post office Decatur Sts. In the earliest days of and the federal court. Now the the settlement, village shops were Martin Luther King, Jr. Federal Build- built just north of the railroad tracks ing, it houses federal government around this intersection. Through the offices. NR years, Five Points has become the 12. Georgia Dome (1992)—1 Geor- recognized heart of the city. Note gia Dome Dr. Visible to the left, the the unusual sculpture “Five Points,” large white-roofed facility contains crafted in 1996 by artist George Beas - over 70,000 seats and is the home of ley, in the center of the intersection. the NFL Atlanta Falcons football 15. State of Georgia Building team. Beginning in 2010, the Dome (1966)—2 Peachtree St. This black also hosts the Georgia State Univer- steel high-rise sits on historic ground. sity Panthers football team. Guided Here Jonathan Norcross had his dry tours: 10 AM–2 PM, Mon., Wed. and goods store in the village of Terminus Fri. (except game days). Information: (1840s), and later, Jacob’s Drugstore 404-223-8687; www.gadome.com dispensed Coca-Cola as a fountain 13. Sam Nunn Atlanta Federal drink for the first time in 1886. Bank Center (1995)—61 Forsyth St. This offices relocated in 1991; the structure massive new complex sprawling now houses government and private across both sides of Forsyth occu- offices, as well as facilities for Geor- pies the former site of Rich’s Depart- gia State University’s Andrew Young ment Store, which was a downtown School of Policy Studies. This was the landmark for over a century. Rich’s city’s tallest structure until comple- got its start in 1867 when Morris Rich tion of the Westin Peachtree Plaza opened a modest dry goods store on Hotel in 1975. Note: Building 16 is part Whitehall St. A century later, Rich’s of the Fairlie-Poplar National Historic (by then a statewide chain) had District. become an institution beloved by 16. Bank of America Building 20 generations of customers for both (1901)—35 Broad St. Originally called its merchandise and its service. The the Empire Building, this was one of downtown store closed in the early Atlanta’s first steel-frame structures. 1990s and was acquired by the fed- In the 1920s, the first three floors eral government for part of the Sam were remodeled in the Second Ren- Nunn Federal Building, which is aissance style by Philip Trammell named for a former Georgia senator. Shutze. Inside, the architectural The old Rich’s entrance, including its detailing of the main banking floor is distinctive clock, has been incorpo- notable. The upper floors now house Atlanta Heritage Trails classrooms and 20. CNN Center offices of the Georgia (1976)—1 CNN Center State University J. at Marietta St. Built Mack Robinson Col- as a mixed lodging, lege of Business dining, and retail Administration. complex, this is head- 17. Henry Grady quarters for the far- Statue (1891)—Mari- reaching media em- etta St. at Forsyth St. pire founded by Ted The citizens of Atlanta Turner, including Ca- commissioned the ble News Network statue by Alexander (CNN) and Headline Doyle to recognize News (HLN). CNN Grady’s efforts to Center also includes promote the city’s the OMNI Hotel and rebirth after the Civil Georgia Capitol and Gordon a variety of shops and War. On the south statue restaurants. Guided side of Marietta St. a tours of CNN studios plaque notes the site of the Kimball are conducted 9 AM–5:30 PM, daily. Opera House, which was used as the Information: 404-827-2300; State Capitol from 1868 until 1889. www.cnn.com/tour The opera house was demolished in 21. Philips Arena (1999)—100 Tech - 1900. wood Dr. Replacing the original 18. The former Atlanta Journal OMNI Coliseum (1972), Philips Arena and Constitution Building (1972)— has over 20,000 seats and is the home 72 Marietta St. For more than four to the NBA Atlanta Hawks basketball decades, this was the headquarters team. In 2009, Philips Arena was of the city’s major newspapers. The awarded LEED (Leadership in Energy newspaper offices relocated to the and Environmental Design) Certifica- suburbs in 2010. tion by the U.S. Green Building Coun- 19. State Bar of Georgia Head- cil, becoming the first NBA or NHL quarters (Former Federal Reserve facility to achieve such recognition. Bank Building) (1918)—104 Marietta Information: 404-878-3000; 21 St. In 1914, Pres. Woodrow Wilson www.philipsarena.com established the 12 regional branches 22. Georgia World Congress Cen- of the Federal Reserve System. The ter (1975, numerous expansions)— original building was designed by 285 Andrew Young International A.Ten Eyck Brown. The bank moved Blvd. Atlanta’s largest convention to a new midtown location in 2001 and trade-show facility contains (see #10); this building is now head- more than 1.5 million square feet of quarters to the Georgia State Bar Association. INTOWN exhibition space with more in devel- 25. World of Coca-Cola (2007)— opment. Information: 404-223-4200; 121 Baker St. In 2007, this museum www.gwcc.com relocated from its original space 23. Centennial Olympic Park adjacent to Underground Atlanta. It (1996)—Marietta St. and Techwood houses exhibitions, interactive dis- Dr. This 21-acre park with landscaped plays, and a unique soda fountain hills, inscribed bricks, an outdoor offering tastes of Coke products amphitheater, sculptures, the whim- from around the world. There is an sical Olympic Rings Fountain, and a admission fee; hours of operation visitor center was a gathering place vary by day and season. Information: during the 1996 Centennial Olympic 404-676-5151; www.woccatlanta.com Games. It remains as a lasting legacy 26. Site of the National Center of the community spirit that brought for Civil and Human Rights (2012)— the Games to Atlanta. The park is Pemberton Pl. at Centennial Olym pic managed by the Georgia World Con- Park Dr. Currently under con struc - gress Center and hosts a variety of tion on land donated by The Coca- events and programs throughout Cola Company, the center is the year. Information: 404-222-7275; sche duled to open in the summer www.centennialpark.com of 2012. The center is the vision of 24. Georgia Aquarium (2005)— many local leaders, including Ambas- 225 Baker St. Located on the north- sador Andrew Young, former Atlanta ern boundary of Centennial Park, Mayor Shirley Franklin, and Evelyn the Georgia Aquarium is the largest Lowery (civil rights hero, creator of structure of its kind in the world. the Drum Major for Justice Award, Holding more than 8 million gallons and wife of Rev. Joseph Lowery). of water in its tanks, the Aquarium Information: www.cchrpartnership.org features more than 60 exhibit 27. Imagine It! The Children’s spaces, including Georgia Explorer, Museum of Atlanta (2003)— Cold Water Quest, River Scout, and 275 Olympic Centennial Park Dr. Planet Shark. Special events and pro- Located across from Centennial grams include behind-the-scenes Park, the museum offers interactive tours, lectures, workshops, and exhibits, games, and programs for 22 camps. Created from a gift to the kids aged 2–8. Information: 404-659- state by Home Depot co-founder 5437; www.childrensmuseumatlanta.org and philanthropist Bernie Marcus, Note: Sites 28–36 are part of the aquarium is open 10 AM–5 PM, the Fairlie-Poplar National Historic Sun.–Fri.; 9 AM–6 PM, Sat., with District. extended hours in the summer. 28. The Tabernacle (1910)— Information: 404-581-1000; www. 152 Luckie St. Once the city’s largest georgiaaquarium.org Baptist church, this massive red brick building is now a performance hall. Atlanta Heritage Trails The interior walls are lined with Chicago style of commercial archi- black-and-white photos of renowned tecture. NR. musicians. Information: 404-659-9022; 34. Flatiron Building (1897)— www.tabernacleatl.com 74 Peachtree St. Originally called 29. Rialto Center for the Perform- the English-American Building, this ing Arts (1962, renovated 1995)—80 triangular flatiron-shaped structure Forsyth St. The largest movie house was designed by Bradford Gilbert, in the Southeast when it opened in who also designed New York City’s 1916, the original 925-seat theater was first steel-framed skyscraper. Atlan - replaced by a 1,200-seat building in ta’s Flatiron, the city’s oldest sky- 1962. It closed in 1989 and was scraper, predates New York City’s vacant for several years before being building of the same name. NR acquired and renovated by Georgia 35. Equitable Building (1968)— State University. Today it is a venue 100 Peachtree St. This monolithic for a variety of musical and dramatic blackened-steel and glass skyscraper productions. Information: 404-651- is an International-style design by 4727; www.rialtocenter.org the firm of Skidmore, Owings and 30. E. P. Tuttle Federal Court- Merrill. The opening of the building house (1908)—56 Forsyth St. Designed was delayed for nearly a year due to in the Second Renaissance Revival damage from a rooftop blaze. style, this formidable granite building 36. Candler Building (1906)— is home to the Eleventh Circuit Court 127 Peachtree St. Asa G. Candler, of Appeals. founder of The Coca-Cola Com- 31. Healey Building (1913)— pany, spared no expense in the con- 57 Forsyth St. The Tudor ornamenta- struction of this Murphy and tion and atrium lobby of this build- Stewart-designed building. This ing designed by Walter T. Downing ornate marble and terra-cotta mas- make it an outstanding example of terpiece includes an exquisite brass Atlanta’s early skyscrapers. NR and marble lobby. NR 32. Western Market (1890)— 37. Rhodes-Haverty Building 60 Walton St. Near the Healey and (1929)—134 Peachtree St. Designed by Grant Buildings, this small retail Pringle and Smith for furniture mag- store with its unusual, eclectic design nates Amos G. Rhodes and James J. 23 provides a glimpse of what this area Haverty, this 21-story building, with looked like before the construction its blend of Byzantine and Art Deco of taller buildings. motifs, is an excellent example of the 33. Grant Building (1898)— transition from classical (e.g., the 44 Broad St. Designed by the firm Flatiron and Candler Buildings) to of Bruce and Morgan, this is one modern styles. This was the city’s of Atlanta’s finest examples of the tallest building until 1955. In 1995 it was adapted for use as a hotel. NR INTOWN 38. Hillyer Trust With the Wind collec- Building (1913)—140 tion. Hours: 9 AM–9 Peachtree St. Built for PM, Mon.–Thur.; 9 the Hillyer Trust AM–6 PM, Fri. & Sat.; Company, the struc- 2 PM–6 PM, Sun. ture was originally Information: 404-730- seven stories taller. 1700; www.af. The upper floors were public.lib.ga.us removed in 1978. For 42. Ellis Hotel a number of years the (1913, restored building was the 2009)—176 Peachtree downtown branch of St. This attractive the Atlanta History commercial building Center. with Beaux Arts 39. Margaret details was designed Mitchell Square Luckie and Broad Streets as the Winecoff Hotel (1940s)—Forsyth and by William L. Stod- Peachtree Sts. Adjacent to the Hillyer dart of New York. Considered one of Building, this small park is a memo- the city’s finest hotels when it was rial to the Atlanta-born author of constructed, the Wine coff was long Gone With the Wind. At its center is a synon ymous with tragedy. Early soaring metal sculpture by Kit-Yin on the morning of December 7, 1946, Snyder. a devastating fire swept through the 40. Georgia-Pacific Building building, leaving 119 people dead (1982)—133 Peachtree St. Headquar- including its owner, William ters of the international wood Winecoff. It remains the worst hotel products company, this massive fire in United States history. The multi-tiered pink marble tower building reopened in 1951 and served a designed by Skidmore, Owings and variety of purposes. After being Merrill is on the site of the Loew’s vacant for several years, the building Grand Theater. The movie Gone was extensively renovated and With the Wind made its world pre- reopened in 2009 as the Ellis Hotel. 24 miere at the Loew’s in December 1939. 43. Old Macy’s Department Store 41. Atlanta-Fulton County Public Building (1927)—180 Peachtree St. Library (1980)—1 Margaret Mitchell Designed by Philip T. Shutze, this Square. This massive, pre-cast con- massive red-brick building was the crete building, designed in the Mod- last remaining grand department ern style by Marcel Breuer, replaced store in downtown Atlanta. The store the Carnegie Library, which had closed in 2003. In 2010, restored por- been built on this site in 1902. The tions of the store’s grand atrium were library contains an extensive Gone reopened as a special-events facility. Atlanta Heritage Trails 44. Westin Peachtree Plaza Hotel 47. Hardy Ivy Park (1880s)— (1975)—210 Peachtree St. This 73- Peachtree and West Peachtree Sts. story cylindrical glass tower designed Named to commemorate Atlanta’s by John Portman is the tallest hotel first white settler, the small park has in North America. The revolving served as the symbolic entrance to rooftop restaurant offers an unsur- downtown for over a century. passed panorama of the city. The Refurbished for the Olympics, the hotel occupies the site of the John park now contains an arch crafted James house, home to Georgia’s gov- from the preserved facades of ernors from 1868 to 1921. The struc- the early 20th century Carnegie ture suffered significant damage Library that occupied the site of during a March 2008 tornado; all of the present downtown library until the building’s 6,350 curved windows the mid-1970s. had to be replaced, a project that 48. One Peachtree Center took over two years to complete. (1992)—303 Peachtree St. The north- 45. Peachtree Center (1962–92)— ern anchor of Peachtree Center, this 230 block of Peachtree St. between 60-story glass-and-stone tower Williams St. and Peachtree Center seems to float in a circular moat sur- Ave. The vision of architect John rounded by a sculpture garden. Portman, this sprawling complex 49. First United Methodist connected by bridges and tunnels Church (1904)—360 Peachtree St. began with the Atlanta Merchandise Organized in 1848 as Wesley Chapel, Mart in 1962. Expansions include the this is Atlanta’s oldest religious con- Inforum (1989) and additions to the gregation. The Gothic Revival struc- Atlanta Gift Mart (1992). In addition ture includes pews, stained glass to office and exhibition space, the windows, iron fencing, and the pul- center has a variety of shops and pit from the original wooden church, restaurants. Walkways lead to the which occupied the present site of Hyatt Regency and the Marriott the Candler Building. The church Marquis Hotels. Nearly 200 feet bell tolled a warning of the approach beneath the Center is a MARTA rail of Gen. Sherman’s invading army station with solid gneiss rock walls. in 1864. Information: 404-654-1296; www. 50. The Imperial (1911)—355 Peach - 25 peachtreecenter.com tree St. Built as an upscale hotel on 46. Capital City Club (1911)— the edge of downtown, the building 7 Harris St. This ornate Beaux Arts fell into decline in the 1960s and brick structure was designed to com- closed a decade later. After years of plement the many fine Victorian resi- vacancy, it was restored and reopened dences that lined Peachtree St. in the in 1995 as an apartment building. early 20th century. Private Club NR INTOWN

51. Basilica of the Sacred Heart SWEET AUBURN TRAIL of Jesus Roman Catholic Church (1897)—353 Peachtree St. This red brick NOTABLE PLACES and terra-cotta church, designed in 1. Martin Luther King, Jr. a mix of Gothic and Romanesque National Historic Site Visi- styles, once anchored a complex tor Center (1996)—501 Auburn Ave. that included Marist School and St. The center features interactive Joseph’s Infirmary. The school and exhibits and memorabilia tracing Dr. hospital relocated to the suburbs King’s life and his role in the Civil many years ago. NR Rights movement. An especially 52. Marriott Marquis Hotel and powerful display is a life-sized recre- Towers (1985)—285 Peachtree Center ation of a portion of the Edmund Ave. The vertigo-inducing 48-story Pettus Bridge outside Selma, Ala- atrium lobby of this John Portman- bama, including plaster statues of designed hotel has been described as marchers crossing in 1965. Guided “the belly of the whale.” The hotel is tours of the King Birth Home are flanked by two high-rise office tow- arranged by staff at the center. In the ers. courtyard outside the center is the 53. Hyatt Regency Hotel (1967)— “BEHOLD” monument sculpted in 265 Peachtree St. John Portman’s 1990 by Patrick Morelli. The monu- first open atrium–lobby hotel, this ment is dedicated to the memory of building heralded a revolution in Dr. King. Hours: 9 AM–5 PM, daily. hotel design. The building is topped Information: 404-331-5190; www.nps. by the distinctive blue-domed Polaris gov/malu Room lounge. 2. Fire Station #6 (1894)— 54. Cornerstone Building (1928)— 39 Boulevard. This brick Roman - 215 Peachtree St. Built for clothier esque Revival structure designed J. P. Allen, the structure was renovated by Bruce and Morgan is one of in the early 1990s and now houses the Atlan ta’s original fire stations. Atlanta Hard Rock Café. Today it houses the King Historic 55. Regenstein’s Building (1930)— Site book and gift shop and a small 209 Peachtree St. Notable for its fine firefighter’s museum. Young Martin 26 Art Deco ornamentation, the build- Luther King, Jr. often visited firefighting was home to a local department ers stationed here. Hours: 9 AM– store for many years. 5 PM, daily. Information: 404-331-5190; 56. 191 Peachtree Tower (1990)— www.nps.gov/malu 191 Peachtree St. A modern interpreta- 3. Martin Luther King, Jr. Birth tion of a Neoclassical skyscraper, this Home (1894)—501 Auburn Ave. This 50-story granite tower is the work of comfortable Queen Anne–style John Burgee and Philip Johnson. house was built by Lew Hunerkopf Atlanta Heritage Trails

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RDERS DR H BO IAM WILL ST SE 5 SON JACK 27 4 1 N BOULEVARD N E 2 3 HOGUE ST NE GPS: N 33. 45. 406 HOWELL ST NE W 84. 22. 391 INTOWN and sold to two “old three generations of maid sisters,” Julia the King family have and Vada Holbrook. preached from its Martin Luther King, pulpit. A new, strik- Jr. was born here on ingly modern sanctu- January 15, 1929. The ary across the street King family lived in opened in 1999. The the home until 1941. historic sanctuary is Opened to the public now managed by the in 1975, the house is National Park Serv- Ebenezer Baptist Church owned by the King ice. Tours are offered Center and managed daily and hours vary by the National Park Service. Guided by season. Information: 404-331-5190; tours offered daily 10 AM– www.nps.gov/malu 5 PM. Information: 404-331-5190; 6. Wheat Street Baptist Church www.nps.gov/malu (1920)—18 William Holmes Borders 4. Martin Luther King, Jr. Center Dr. This sandstone Gothic Revival– for Nonviolent Social Change style building houses one of the oldest (1981)—449 Auburn Ave. Located black Baptist congregations in between the Martin Luther King, Jr. Atlanta, organized in 1870 as Mt. Birth Home and Ebenezer Baptist Pleasant Baptist Church. The church’s Church is the centerpiece of this current name dates back to the time National Historic Site. Founded by before 1893, when Auburn Ave. was Dr. King’s widow, Coretta Scott named Wheat St. NR King, the Center provides educa- 7. Butler Street YMCA (1918)— tional programs and houses a 22 Butler St. This unassuming Geor- library, museum, gift shop, and day gian Revival–style building is a long- care center. Dr. King’s tomb, with its time meeting place for Atlanta’s inscription “Free At Last,” sits amid black leaders. The Hungry Club, a the waters of a tranquil reflecting black political organization, has held pool. Following her death in 2006, meetings here for years. The mem- Coretta Scott King was interred in a bership list of the Y reads like a lead- 28 tomb next to her husband. Hours: ership roster of the civil rights 9 AM–5 PM, daily; longer hours in movement and includes Vernon Jor- summer. Information: 404-526-8900; dan, Julian Bond, John Lewis, Whit- www.thekingcenter.org ney Young, and Dr. Benjamin Mays, 5. Old Ebenezer Baptist Church to name a few. (1914)—407 Auburn Ave. Founded 8. Sweet Auburn Curb Market in 1886, this brick church is the (1923)—209 Edgewood Ave. This acknowledged spiritual center of the bustling, noisy gathering place nonviolent civil rights movement; was originally called the Municipal Atlanta Heritage Trails Market. Information: 404-659-1665; ers/Barnum & Bailey Circus, and www.sweetauburncurbmarket.com Atlanta society feted Hollywood’s 9. Georgia Hall (1896)—36 Butler elite at a gala formal ball preceding St. The original building of the the world premiere of Gone With the sprawling Grady Memorial Hospital Wind. Following completion of the complex, this handsome red brick Civic Center in 1968, the auditorium’s structure, designed in the Roman - use declined and it was purchased by esque Revival style, anchors the Georgia State University in the late Grady Memorial Hospital National 1970s for use as an Alumni Center. Historic District. NR The building’s interior was com- 10. Site of The Coca-Cola Com- pletely remodeled; only the marble pany’s First Headquarters (1898)— facade and formal entranceway of 179 Edgewood Ave. On this tri angular the original building remain. block, Asa G. Candler erected a 13. Hurt Building (1913)—45 Edge- three-story structure to house his wood Ave. Named for real estate new soft drink company. He believed developer and entrepreneur Joel the building would be “sufficient for Hurt, creator of Atlanta’s first com- all our needs for all time to come.” muter neighborhood, Inman Park Within 10 years, the company out- (see #8), the building was designed grew its offices, and the first building in the Chicago style. The ornate mar- of the North Ave. complex was built ble stairway and grillwork are major in 1920. features. NR 11. Dixie Coca-Cola Bottling Com- 14. Robert W. Woodruff Memo- pany Building (1890s)—125 Edgewood rial Park (1973)—Peachtree St. and Ave. This Queen Anne–style building, Park Pl. This open greenspace was with its unique mix of building mate- created from land donated to the city rials and asymmetrical design, served by Coca-Cola Company chairman as the first bottling plant in Atlanta Robert W. Woodruff. The park offers for The Coca-Cola Company. Today, a pleasant respite from the surround- the extensively renovated structure is ing urban towers and frequently is the Baptist Student Center of Geor- the scene of impromptu preaching as gia State University. NR well as scheduled political and per- 12. Old Municipal Auditorium forming arts events. The Gamba 29 (1909)—30 Courtland St. Designed by Quirino statue “Atlanta from the the firm of Morgan and Dillon, this Ashes,” a 1969 gift given to the city by facility was Atlanta’s center for the the Rich’s Foundation, was moved performing arts for 60 years. In the here from its original location at early years of the 20th century, Enrico Spring St. and Martin Luther King, Jr. Caruso performed here with the Met- Dr. in 1996. Alonzo Herndon’s bar- ropolitan Opera, audiences delighted bershop once stood across from the in the frolics of the Ringling Broth- park at 66 Peachtree St. INTOWN 15. Auburn Ave. and ornamental Research Library entranceway. The (1996)—101 Auburn building is currently Ave. This Atlanta-Ful- vacant and its future ton County Library uncertain. The com- branch contains pany’s main offices extensive collections are now housed a of works on African short distance away American history and at Herndon Plaza. culture. Hours: 10 19. Big Bethel AM–8 PM, Mon.– AME Church (1891, Thurs; 12 PM–8 PM, rebuilt 1924)—220 Fri.–Sun. Information: Auburn Ave. A 404-730-4001; www. massive, rough- af.public.lib.ga.us/aarl textured stone build- 16. APEX Museum BEHOLD monument ing designed in the (1910)—135 Auburn Ave. Romanesque Revival style, this Built as the Atlanta School Book church, with the illuminated sign Depository, this old warehouse is atop the bell tower proclaiming “Je- now home to the African American sus Saves,” is an Atlanta landmark. Panoramic Experience, an expanding 20. Odd Fellows Building (1912)— complex of historical exhibits, art 250 Auburn Ave. This brick Roman - galleries, and conference facilities. In esque Revival–style structure was 1987, the building was rededicated as built by the Georgia Chapter of the the John Wesley Dobbs Building. Grand United Order of Odd Fellows, Hours: 10 AM–5 PM, Tues.–Sat. Infor- a black trade and social organiza- mation: 404-523-2739; www.apexmu- tion. In addition to meeting rooms, seum.org the building housed commercial 17. The Original Atlanta Daily space, a theater, and an auditorium. World Building (1910s)—145 Auburn Note the terra-cotta figures around Ave. This building is the longtime the ornate entrance. home of Atlanta’s oldest black- 21. Tabor Building (1927)— 30 owned newspaper, founded by 328 Auburn Ave. Erected by the William A. Scott in 1928. Information: Grand Temple and Tabernacle Inter- 404-659-1110. national Order of Twelve Knights 18. Old Atlanta Life Insurance of the Daughters of Tabor, a black Building (1920)—148 Auburn Ave. cultural association, this 3-story Former headquarters of the com- building has ornamental Italian pany founded by Alonzo Herndon, tile facing. this sandstone brick building is 22. Prince Hall Masonic Building noted for its Corinthian columns Atlanta Heritage Trails (1941)—334 Auburn Ave. This building Guided Walking Tours of Under- was constructed by the M.W. Prince ground Atlanta and the Capitol Hall Grand Lodge of Georgia under area, Historic downtown, and Sweet the direction of John Wesley Dobbs, Auburn. Information: 404-876-2040; a prominent black political leader. www.preserveatlanta.com Dobbs was the grandfather of May- u Georgia State University’s cam- nard Jackson, the city’s first black pus activities range from intercolle- mayor. It was here that Dr. Martin giate athletics (now including NCAA Luther King, Jr. organized the South- football) to theatrical and musical ern Christian Leadership Conference performances at the Rialto Center (SCLC) in the 1950s. SCLC’s offices and other venues. Information: 404- remain in the building along with the 651-2000; www.gsu.edu. studios of WERD, the nation’s first black-owned radio station. NEARBY ATTRACTIONS u Boisfeullet Jones Civic Center— SPECIAL FEATURES AND EVENTS 395 Piedmont Ave. A theatrical and The heart of downtown plays host musical performance facility. It to numerous events throughout the underwent renovation in 2001. year. Some of the most important Information: 404-523-1879; www. include: atlantaciviccenter.com u Martin Luther King, Jr. Birthday u Georgia State University Celebration—January Arena—125 Decatur St. Home to the u St. Patrick’s Day Parade— Panthers basketball team and a ven- March ue for special events. Information: u Martin Luther King, Jr. 404-651-2772; www.gsu.edu Commemoration–April u Turner Field—755 Hank Aaron u Atlanta Dogwood Festival— Dr. Home of Major League Base- April ball’s Atlanta Braves. Guided tours u Sweet Auburn Springfest—April available of the stadium and the u National Black Arts Festival— Braves Museum and Hall of Fame. July (biannual) Information: 404-614-2311; www. u Veterans Day Parade— atlantabraves.com November 31 u Heaven Bound, a theatrical pro- OTHER WALKS IN THE AREA duction at Big Bethel AME Church— #2 Atlanta University Center November #3 West End u Peach Drop at Underground #6 Historic Oakland Cemetery Atlanta—New Year’s Eve #7 Grant Park u State Capitol tours and atten- #8 Inman Park dance at legislative sessions—Jan– #11 Peachtree Promenade March. Information: 404-656-2844. #12 Georgia Tech u Atlanta Preservation Center INTOWN C H A P T E R 2

Brown College buildings, the terrain Atlanta rises toward Foun tain Hall, which sits astride one of the highest points University in the city. Center DRIVING DIRECTIONS Travel west from downtown via I-20 to Lee St. (exit 55). Turn right and drive north about 0.3 miles to the visitor parking decks adjacent to the Morehouse and Spelman campuses.

Parking There are visitor parking facilities on Westview Dr. adjacent to Morehouse and Spelman. On weekends and dur- LOCATION ing the summer there also may be About 1 mile west of downtown. The space available along campus streets. walk begins on Westview Dr. at the James P. Brawley Dr. is closed to Martin Luther King, Jr. International automobiles south of Beckwith St. Chapel. GPS: N33.44.746/W84.24.847 PUBLIC TRANSPORTATION The northeastern edge of the TRAIL DISTANCE campus is located about 0.3 The walk through the cam- miles southwest of the MARTA Vine puses and back to the parking City rail station. Bus service (#3 deck is about 4.3 miles. Martin Luther King, Jr. Dr. and #13 32 Fair St.) is available to the campus TERRAIN area from the Five Points station. The Spelman College, More- MARTA: 404-848-5000; www. house College, and Clark itsmarta.com Atlanta University campuses are located on fairly level, rolling ground. BACKGROUND Traveling northward toward the Nestled amid rolling, tree-shaded Interdenominational Theological hills west of the central city are the Center campus and historic Morris five independent schools that form Atlanta University Center the Atlanta University Center, a pre- spread and by 1883 it needed larger eminent, historically black institution quarters. A 9-acre tract, used by of collegiate and post-graduate Federal troops after the Civil War education. Nearly all the of the five and containing several barracks schools trace their origins to the buildings, was acquired to serve the years following the Civil War when school’s expanding needs. churches, Northern benevolent soci- Among those who learned of the eties, and other interested groups school’s mission and needs was John sought to bring opportunities for D. Rockefeller. He and his family formal education to newly freed made generous financial contribu- slaves. In each case, the early years tions to the struggling seminary. were difficult ones, with inadequate In recognition of this, the school facilities (Atlanta University once changed its name to Spelman Semi- held classes in discarded boxcars), nary in honor of Rockefeller’s wife, lack of funds to attract and retain Laura Spelman Rockefeller. faculty, and the social and economic Spelman College granted its first difficulties of Reconstruction. degree in 1897 and, by the time of its Today, the United Atlanta Univer- affiliation with the Atlanta University sity Center, with its international rep- Center in 1929, was a nationally rec- utation and its motto, “Strength ognized institution for the academic through Cooperation,” is the accom- and cultural education of black plishment of visionary men and women. Today, this small liberal arts women—Northern and Southern, college has an enrollment of more black and white—who saw the need, than 2,000 students, with alumnae accepted the challenge, and, through in positions of leadership through- decades of hard work, persevered to out the world. Spelman’s founders achieve their goals. Here are brief his- started the school with $100; its tories of the center’s institutions: endowment is now more than $200 Spelman College was established million. Past president Dr. Johnnetta in 1881 by Sophia Packard and Har- Cole, a nationally known scholar in riet Giles, two teachers from New anthropology, was the first black England who came to Atlanta to woman to lead the college. Informa- establish a school for young black tion: 404-681-3643; www.spelman.edu 33 women who were born into slavery. Morehouse College was founded Originally known as Atlanta Baptist as Augusta Institute at Springfield Female Seminary, the school began Baptist Church in Augusta, Georgia, in a modest basement room of in 1867 and relocated to Atlanta in nearby Friendship Baptist Church 1879 as Atlanta Baptist College. with 11 students determined to learn Morehouse was dedicated from its to read and write, using a Bible as earliest days to the preparation of their textbook. Word of the school black men for leadership roles in edu- INTOWN

Benjamin Mays

cation, the professions, and the min- ties throughout Georgia and the istry. Under the leadership of Pres. nation. The School of Medicine’s John Hope (an avid proponent of the former president, Dr. Louis Sullivan, affiliation with Spelman and Atlanta was a Morehouse College graduate University in the 1920s), the legendary and served as Secretary of Health Benjamin Mays (mentor of Martin and Human Services under Pres. Luther King, Jr.), and Hugh M. George H. W. Bush. Another noted Gloster (who steered the school to member of the Morehouse faculty, an enviable position of financial sta- David Satcher, M.D., served as U.S. bility and developed the Morehouse Surgeon General under Pres. Bill School of Medicine), Morehouse has Clinton. The school utilizes facilities achieved a significant level of influ- both on campus and at Grady ence in American education. Today it Memorial Hospital in downtown has an enrollment of about 1,500 stu- Atlanta. Information: 404-752-1500; dents. In 2002, Morehouse was www.msm.edu named the best college in the nation Clark Atlanta University was for African American students by established on June 24, 1988, when 34 Black Enterprise magazine. Information: the Boards of Trustees of Clark Col- 404-681-2800; www.morehouse.edu lege and Atlanta University approved Morehouse School of Medicine a plan to consolidate the operations was established in 1973 to provide of the two previously independent medical education to minority stu- institutions into a new, comprehen- dents. The medical school’s objec- sive university. Under unified leader- tive is to train physicians and allied ship, Clark College continued to health professionals for service in offer a full undergraduate curricu- minority and underserved communi- lum, while Atlanta University main- Atlanta University Center tained and expanded its graduate assumed the role of providing post- programs. Through this historic graduate education to the member merger, the schools were strength- colleges. By 1931, the first master’s ened without forfeiting their individ- degree was conferred, and in the ual history and heritage. 1950s, doctoral programs were estab- Established in 1865 by Edmund lished in a variety of disciplines. Asa Ware and other teachers from Clark College, one of the first the American Missionary Associa- institutions established by a religious tion, Atlanta University was the first organization to serve the educa- educational institution in Atlanta to tional needs of freed slaves, opened serve the needs of the freed slaves. its doors in 1869. Founded by the Facilities were modest and funds Freedman’s Aid Society of the Meth - were scarce, but the faculty’s desire odist Episcopal Church (later the to teach and the students’ enthusi- United Methodist Church), the asm for learning were great. In the school was named for prominent early years, classes taught were ele- churchman and benefactor to the mentary reading, writing, and math- school Rev. Davis W. Clark. In 1877, ematics, but the goal of offering a the school relocated from the central secondary and eventually also a col- city to a rural tract of land south of lege education remained unwaver- Atlanta and expanded its curriculum ing. In 1876, this objective was to college-level courses. attained when Dr. Ware conferred During the 1920s, Clark partici- the first bachelor’s degree. By 1894, pated in the preliminary discussion all classes below the high school level with Atlanta University, Spelman, ceased, and in the 1920s, with the and Morehouse regarding affiliation opening of Booker T. Washington of the schools, but chose at that High School, Atlanta University time to remain geographically and offered only college level courses. academically separate. However, In 1921, under the guidance of during the Depression, the school’s Presidents Matilda Read of Spelman, board of trustees reconsidered and John Hope of Morehouse, and concluded that joining the new Myron Adams of Atlanta University, Atlanta University Center offered fis- the landmark contract of affiliation cal and educational opportunities 35 was developed and implemented, Clark could no longer independently creating the Atlanta University Cen- provide. The decision was made to ter. The agreement formalized the join and the school physically relo- sharing of faculty, facilities, and cated to its present site in 1941. programs and offered fiscal econ - Today, Clark Atlanta University is omies that, with the onset of the a leading institution of higher educa- Great Depression, proved invaluable. tion and is the only private, urban, Within the center, Atlanta University historically black university in the INTOWN nation offering comprehensive aca- support of the Rockefeller Founda- demic programs leading to bache- tion, the Interdenominational Theo- lor’s, master’s, and doctoral degrees logical Center became a reality in 1958. in many fields. A tangible example of Since then, additional schools have this dynamic growth is the Research joined the center: Center for Science and Technology. The Phillips School of Theology of Information: 404-880-8000; www. the Christian Methodist Episcopal cau.edu Church was founded at Lane College The Interdenominational Theo- in Tennessee and relocated to the logical Center: Following the Civil center in 1959. War, emancipated slaves, who The Charles H. Mason Theological had long attended their owners’ Seminary of the Church of God in churches, sought to erect their own Christ was established in 1969. houses of worship and train clergy. The Johnson C. Smith Seminary In the latter part of the 19th century, was established in Charlotte, North three institutions were established Carolina, in 1867 by the United Pres- in the Atlanta area to address these byterian Church and relocated to the needs. The first was the School of center in 1970. Today, students of all Religion at Morehouse College, races and nationalities join here in which trained Baptist ministers to interdenominational education and serve the region. Second was the fellowship. Information: 404-527- Bible Department at Clark College, 7700; www.itc.edu founded in 1883 by the Methodist Former Morris Brown College Episcopal Church. In 1887, it became campus: A coeducational under- an independent institution and was graduate school founded in 1881 at renamed in honor of Rev. Elijah Big Bethel African Methodist Episco- Gammon. Turner Theological Semi- pal (AME) Church by Bishop Wesley nary, the third school, was organized John Gaines and Stewart Wylie, the by the African Methodist Episcopal school was named for Bishop Morris Church in 1894 as the religion Brown, a prominent figure in the department for Morris Brown Col- AME church. It was the only school lege. Dependent as they were upon on the AUC campus to have been 36 meager budgets, contributions, and founded by African Americans. Mor- grants from philanthropic organiza- ris Brown College was originally tions, the seminaries operated in located in east Atlanta on Boule- continual financial crisis and the vard, but by the early part of the individual schools eventually recog- 20th century it had outgrown its nized the potential benefits of affilia- facilities. This problem, combined tion. After years of planning under the with the financial crises of the leadership of Dr. Harry V. Richard son, Depression, prompted Morris Gammon’s president, and with the Brown’s affiliation with Atlanta Uni- Atlanta University Center versity in 1932. At that time, the col- 1. Martin Luther King, Jr. lege relocated to the original Atlanta International Chapel (MC) (1978)— University Campus on Martin Luther Westview Dr. This modern building King, Jr. Dr. Due to severe financial contains a 2,500-seat auditorium, setbacks, the school lost accredita- which serves as a central gathering tion in 2002 and closed in 2009. No place for Morehouse religious and longer an active part of the Atlanta secular functions. The chapel organ University Center, the college’s future is the largest of its kind in the South- remains uncertain. east. The lobby contains the Wall A walk across these campuses of Honor, made up of portraits of in many ways parallels the journey Morehouse presidents and black his- of former slaves from bondage torians. Of particular interest are a and ignorance to freedom and edu- dramatic statue of Dr. King, sculpted cation and attests to the hard work by Ed Dwight 1984, and the Howard and determination of generations Thurman Memorial Bell Tower, of young men and women. The named for the civil rights leader. Atlanta University Historic District 2. B. T. Harvey Stadium and is listed on the National Register Edwin Moses Track (MC) (1970s, of Historic Places. expanded 1996)—Ashby St. at West- view Dr. Home to the Morehouse HISTORICAL MARKERS Maroon Tigers football and track Stone monuments and mark- teams, the track is named for Olym - ers are positioned at various pian and world champion hurdler locations on the campus. Edwin Moses, a Morehouse alum- Most memorialize faculty members nus. The Mondo track surface, one and benefactors to the schools. of the fastest in the world, was relo- There is one state historical marker: cated here from the Olympic Sta- 1. Added Exterior Line—behind dium (now Turner Field) after the Forbes Arena on Lowery Blvd. 1996 Olympic Games. 3. Spelman College Gates (SC) NOTABLE PLACES (1890s)—Greens Ferry Ave. These Following the name of each decorative wrought iron and red- building are the initials of brick gates were a gift from the 37 the school to which it belongs: Rockefeller family. Note: To see sites AUC—Atlanta University Center 4–18, you must first pick up a visitor CAU—Clark Atlanta University pass from the Admissions Department ITC—Interdenominational Theo- in Sophia Packard Hall (#16). logical Center 4. Cosby Academic Center (SC) MB—Morris Brown (1996)—Named in honor of Camille MC—Morehouse College Olivia Hanks Cosby, this modern SC—Spelman College facility was a gift to Spelman College INTOWN from her husband, comedian Bill focal point for programs in the phys- Cosby. The center houses the Spel- ical sciences. man College Museum of Fine Art and 10. Memorial Peace Garden (SC) its renowned collection of paintings, (1913)—This small garden space prints, photographs, and African framed by columns offers a place sculptures and textiles. Hours: 10 AM– for meditation. 5 PM, Tues.–Fri.; 12 PM–5 PM, Sat. 11. Sisters Chapel (SC) (1927)— Information: 404-215-2583; www. Designed in the Greek Revival style, museum.spelman.edu this chapel is dedicated to sisters 5. Harriet Giles Hall (SC) (1893)— Laura Spelman Rockefeller and Lucy This Victorian red-brick building was Maria Spelman. The chapel is the named after the school’s cofounder. work of Neel Reid and is a venue for Originally a classroom and residen- both secular performances and reli- tial facility, it now houses a research gious services. center, classrooms, and faculty 12. Bessie Strong Hall (SC) (1917)— offices. Note the small vegetable gar- Constructed as an upper-class dor- dens behind the building—these were mitory, this building is named for first planted by students as Victory John D. Rockefeller’s eldest daugh- Gardens during World War II. ter, Elizabeth Rockefeller Strong. 6. Morehouse-James Hall (SC) It was featured in the television (1900)—Constructed as a dormitory, series A Different World. In 2004, the the building is named for Dr. Henry building was renovated and L. Morehouse, philanthropist and reopened as the WISDOM (Women namesake of Morehouse College, in Spiritual Discernment of Ministry) and Professor Willis James, longtime Center. Plans are in development music teacher at Spelman. for creation of a garden labyrinth 7. Laura Spelman Rockefeller Hall behind the building. (SC) (1918)—Notable for the Palla- 13. Reynolds Cottage (SC) (1900) dian window above its entranceway, —Named to honor Mary Reynolds, this building was named in honor of a longtime leader of the Women’s the wife of John D. Rockefeller, Sr. American Baptist Home Society, this 8. Tapley Hall (SC) (1923)— building is the residence of Spel- 38 adjacent to Spelman Rockefeller man’s president. Hall. This brick neo-Georgian build- 14. MacVicar Infirmary Building ing was designed by Neel Reid. (SC) (1900)—Now the campus infir- 9. Albro-Falconer-Manley Science mary, this was a public hospital in Center (SC) (2000)—One of the fin - the early 20th century when Spelman est facilities of its kind in the nation, offered a nurses’ training program. this state-of-the-art classroom, labo- 15. Rockefeller Hall (SC) (1886)— ratory, and research center is the Named in honor of the school’s key benefactor, this red-brick building, Atlanta University Center

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53 0!2+3437 '03. 7 INTOWN designed in the American and Afro- Romanesque Revival American Art. Also style, is the oldest notable are the “Art existing structure on of the Negro” murals, the campus. painted by Hale 16. Sophia Woodruff in 1952. Packard Hall (SC) Waddell Gallery (1888)—Originally hours vary. Informa- named for Rev. Frank tion: 404-880-6102. Quarles, pastor of Note that the gravesite Friendship Baptist of Dr. John Hope is Church at the time of located on the Quad- the school’s found- rangle a short distance ing, the Victorian from the building. brick building was 20. The Research later rededicated to Centers for Science the memory of the Cosby Academic Center and Technology school’s cofounder. It (CAU) (1993)—adja- now houses the campus visitor cen- cent to the Arnett Building. A master. (Stop here to pick up campus sive brick-and-glass structure, passes). RESCAT houses classrooms, offices, 17. Manley College Center (SC) and laboratories. The centers affirm (1990s)—This modern red brick and Clark Atlanta’s role in the Georgia glass building houses the student Research Alliance (a consortium of center, food service, and campus research universities that includes bookstore. Georgia Tech, the University of Geor- 18. Education and Media Center gia, Emory University, Georgia (SC) (1890)—Built as the campus Southern, and Georgia’s Health Sci- laundry, the structure was renovated ences University [formerly the Med- and adapted to its current use in 1974. ical College of Georgia]) and its 19. Trevor Arnett Building (CAU) commitment to the education of (1931)—Greens Ferry Ave. at James P. minority scientists and engineers. 40 Brawley Dr. Originally built as the 21. Quarles-Washington Hall campus’s central library, the build- (CAU) (1898)—just northwest of ing was named in honor of benefac- Trevor Arnett Library. Originally con- tor and past board chairman Trevor structed for Atlanta Baptist College Arnett. It served this role until com- (later Morehouse), the building later pletion of the Woodruff Library. The housed the Atlanta University School building now houses special collec- of Social Work. tions, administrative offices, and the 22. Hope Hall (MC) (1910, rebuilt Catherine Waddell Gallery of Euro- 1994)—Named for John Hope, who Atlanta University Center became Morehouse’s first African 26. Forbes Arena (MC) (1995)— American president in 1906. The Lowery Dr. adjacent to Kilgore Cen- building was one of the first erected ter. This modern athletic center, on campus. named for longtime Morehouse 23. Sale Hall (MC) (1910)—Built as coach Franklin Lafayette Forbes, is a classroom building, it now houses home to the varsity basketball team. administrative offices and the Rev. It was a venue for basketball during Howard Thurman Humanities Cen- the 1996 Olympic Games. ter. It is named for Dr. George Sale, a 27. Danforth Chapel (MC) Canadian who served as president of (1955)—This small, brick chapel, an Atlanta Baptist College (now More- oasis for reflection, is used for small house) from 1890 to 1906. weddings and religious ceremonies. 24. Graves Hall (MC) (1889)—This The original chapel, a gift from impressive brick building, with its Ralston-Purina president William central tower and ornate Richard- Danforth, was located near the sonian Romanesque entrance, is the presi dent’s residence. It was demol- symbol of Morehouse College, and is ished in the 1970s. named for Samuel T. Graves, More- 28. Harkness Hall (CAU) (1934)— house’s second president (1885–90). at the junction of the Morehouse It occupies one of the highest points and Atlanta University Campuses. on the campus, a site that was a Built to serve as the Administration focal point of fighting during the Building, this impressive structure, Civil War Battle of Atlanta. It is with its central bell tower, comple- reputed that several slaves who were ments Graves Hall at the opposite conscripted to fight for the Confed- end of the quadrangle. This building eracy and died in the battle are is dedicated to the memory of buried beneath the building. The Edward Harkness, an ardent sup- memorial and grave of renowned porter and generous financial con- educator and longtime Morehouse tributor to Atlanta University. president Dr. Benjamin E. Mays is on 29. Pfeiffer, Merner, Holmes, the lawn in front of the building. Kresge, Thayer, Brawley, and Tan- 25. Thomas Kilgore, Jr. Campus ner–Turner Halls (CAU) (1940s)— Center (MC) (1992)—adjacent to Fair St. at Mildred St. These build ings, 41 Graves Hall. A large brick building all built at about the same time, were dominated by a Greek Revival por- constructed to house the students tico, the center houses meeting of Clark College when they relocated spaces, student associations, and a from south Atlanta in 1941. In the bookstore. It is dedicated to More- grass common between the buildings house alumnus and former president is the sculpture “Communication of the American Baptist Churches Linkages” by Nigerian artist Fred Association, Dr. Thomas Kilgore, Jr. Ajano. The bronze work incorporates INTOWN

MLK Chapel

a globe, a satellite dish, and a talking for the entire AUC. It also houses drum symbolizing the growing impor- the studios of the campus radio tance of communications with the (WCLK-91.9 FM) and television developing nations of Africa. (CAU-TV) stations. 30. Rush Student Center (CAU) 32. Ware Hall and Bumstead Hall (c. 1940s)—150 James P. Brawley Dr. (CAU) (1931)—These two residence Recently renovated, this building was halls were built for Atlanta Univer- the longtime home of Rush Congre- sity. Dr. W.E.B. Dubois lived in one gational Church. Organized by John of the building’s suites while teach- Allen Rush as the People’s Church in ing at Atlanta University. On Novem- 1913, the congregation later moved to ber 25, 1935, from a balcony of one this site. Pastor James Bond renamed of these buildings, Pres. Franklin D. the church in its founder’s memory Roosevelt gave his first speech on a and organized one of Atlanta’s first black college campus. African American Boy Scout Troops 33. Clark-Atlanta University here. In the 1960s, under the pas- Stadium (CAU) (1990s)—Beckwith 42 torate of Joseph Boone, the church St. This facility is home to the Clark- was a meeting place for young civil Atlanta Panthers football and rights activists and leaders. track teams. It was used for field 31. Robert W. Woodruff Library hockey competition during the (AUC) (1982)—Parsons St. at James 1996 Olympics. P. Brawley Dr. Built from funds 34. Rose Hill (CAU) (1950s)— donated by Atlanta philanthropist 691 Beckwith St. Situated on a Robert Woodruff, this strikingly tree-shaded hillside, this Georgian- modern facility is the central library style brick house is the official resi- Atlanta University Center dence of the Clark-Atlanta University 39. Gaines Hall (MB) (1869)— president. Martin Luther King, Jr. Dr. at Vine St. 35. Harry V. Richardson Adminis- Designed by William H. Parkins in tration Building of the Interdenomi- the Italianate style, this was the first national Theological Center (ITC) building constructed on the Atlanta (1960)—Beckwith St. across from University Campus. It is named Knowles Industrial Building. Named for one of Morris Brown College’s in honor of the longtime president of founders, Bishop Wesley John Gammon Theological Seminary, this Gaines. It is the oldest university modern building is the centerpiece building in Atlanta. NR of the center’s small campus. 40. Furber Cottage (MB) (1899)— 36. Knowles Industrial Building adjacent to Gaines Hall. This brick (CAU) (1884)—Beckwith St. Con- home was constructed as a model structed using two shades of red home for students studying home brick, this building was built by economics. Atlanta University to house class- 41. Alonzo Herndon Memorial rooms for industrial training. Stadium (MB) (1949, renovated 37. Oglethorpe Hall (CAU) 1995)—Vine St. just north of Univer- (1905)—Martin Luther King, Jr. Dr. sity Pl. Nestled on a hillside, Hern- at Walnut St. This Victorian red don Stadium was home to the brick building was originally a prac- Morris Brown football team. It was tice school for teacher training. renovated and modernized for use Note: Buildings 38–42 were part of during the 1996 Olympic Games, but the Morris Brown College campus and fell into disrepair when the college are closed. Their future is uncertain. closed. In 2010, Chick-fil-A provided 38. Fountain Hall (MB) (1882)—at initial funds to restore the stadium the end of the common. Designed by for use by local high school and col- Gottfried Norrman, this three-story lege teams. Romanesque Revival building with 42. President’s Home (MB) its distinctive clock tower originally (1930s)—601 University Pl. This brick served as the Atlanta University home once served as the residence Administration Building, and later of the president of Morris Brown as a classroom facility for Morris College. 43 Brown College. On the front lawn is 43. Towns House (1910)—594 Uni- the Edmund Asa Ware Memorial. versity Pl. This Victorian-style house Dedicated in 1895, this stone boulder was built by Dr. George A. Towns, a with commemorative plaque marks professor of English and football the tomb of Atlanta University’s first coach at Atlanta University. In 1966, president and was transported from Towns’s daughter, Grace Towns Ware’s home state of Massachusetts Hamilton, was the first black woman for placement at this site. NL elected to the Georgia Legislature. INTOWN The structure is empty and its future oldest church established by blacks. uncertain. The congregation was instrumental 44. Alonzo Herndon Home in the development of both More- (1910)—587 University Pl. An excellent house and Spelman Colleges. example of the Beaux Arts style, the 48. Park Street Methodist Church home was commissioned by Alonzo (CAU) (1912)—Park and Lee Sts. near F. Herndon and designed by William I-20. The congregation was estab- Campbell. Born a slave in rural lished in 1878 to serve the West End Georgia, Herndon started in busi- community, and the first church was ness as owner of an elegant barber- built on this site in 1884. The present shop that catered to an all-white sandstone-brick, Gothic-style struc- clientele. He then became wealthy ture was completed in 1912. While in the insurance business and may it remains an active congregation, have been the richest black man in portions of the complex serve as America when he constructed this Clark-Atlanta University’s Music and mansion. Owned by the Herndon Arts Center. Foundation, the home is open to the public. Hours: 10 AM–4 PM, Tues.– SPECIAL FEATURES AND EVENTS Sat. Information: 404-581-9813; As with most college campuses, a www.theherndonhouse.org NR wide variety of events (concerts, 45. Paschal’s Center (CAU) workshops, dramatic productions, (1940s)—830 Martin Luther King, Jr. athletic competitions) take place Dr. Along with the Butler Street throughout the year. A sampling of YMCA, Paschal’s Restaurant and activities includes: Lodge was, for many years, a gather- u Celebration of the Martin ing place for black political and civil Luther King, Jr. National Holiday— rights leaders. In 1996, the landmark January restaurant and hotel were sold to u Clark-Atlanta Founders Day— Clark Atlanta University for use as a February conference facility. u Morehouse Invitational Track 46. Georgia Dome (1992)—Martin Meet—March Luther King, Jr. and Northside Drs. u Special programs in memory of 44 This indoor stadium is home to the Dr. King—April NFL Atlanta Falcons football team. u Spring Arts Festival at Clark- Information: tours—404-223-8687; Atlanta—April events—404-223-9200; u Spelman Founders Day—April www.gadome.com u “Natal Day” celebration of the 47. Friendship Baptist Church birth and life of Alonzo Herndon at (1871, rebuilt 1967, renovated 1998)— Herndon Home—June 437 Mitchell St. Organized in 1862, u Spelman-Morehouse Christ- Friendship is believed to be Atlanta’s mas Carol Concert—December Atlanta University Center

u Exhibits and Performances: OTHER WALKS IN THE AREA The Atlanta University Center spon- #1 Atlanta Heritage Trails sors a number of art exhibitions #3 West End and performances at various times #4 Outdoor Activity Center and campus locations each year. #5 Cascade Springs Nature Information: 404-522-8980 Preserve u Intercollegiate Athletics: Clark #12 Georgia Tech Atlanta, Morehouse, and Spelman ﬁeld intercollegiate teams in several sports. Games are held at various campus locations throughout the academic year. u Library Collections: The Robert W. Woodruff Library houses special literature collections. Information: 404-522-8980

NEARBY ATTRACTIONS u CNN Center—ofﬁce, retail, and hotel complex. Tours of CNN Stu- dios are available. Information: 404- 827-2400; www.cnn.com u The Georgia World Congress Center: Information: 404-223-4000; www.gwcc.com u Downtown Atlanta Business District u Lionel Hampton Trail and Westside Trail—6.8-mile paved, multiuse PATH Foundation trail links Atlanta University, historic neighborhoods, and local parks. u Philips Arena (1999)—home to 45 the Atlanta Hawks (NBA basketball). Information: 404-878-3000; www.philipsarena.com N E A R T O W N C H A P T E R 3

south on Lowery to Ralph David West Abernathy Blvd., turn right along Abernathy Blvd. to E. P. Howell Park End at Peeples St.

Parking Parking is available along side streets, at West End Mall, and at the Wren’s Nest for anyone taking the house tour.

PUBLIC TRANSPORTATION West End is served by MARTA buses along Cascade Rd. (#71). The West End rail station is just east on Lee St. at Oglethorpe Ave. LOCATION MARTA: 404-848-5000; www. About 2 miles southwest of down- itsmarta.com town. The walk begins in front of the Wren’s Nest at 1050 Abernathy Blvd. BACKGROUND GPS: W33.44.286/N84.25.337 In 1835, two years before the founding of Atlanta, a small community arose TRAIL DISTANCE here along what was then the New- The walk is about 1.5 miles. nan–Decatur Rd. The center of activity was Whitehall Tavern, built and operated by Charner Hum phries. The TERRAIN two-story, whitewashed inn became 46 The area is mostly level, and an area landmark, and for many sidewalks are available for years the entire settlement was called most of the walk. Stately old shade Whitehall. During the early years of trees create a canopy over many resi- Atlanta’s growth as a regional trans- dential streets. portation center, White hall maintained its small town, frontier DRIVING DIRECTIONS existence. In the Civil War, Atlanta Travel I-20 west to West was burned, but Whitehall escaped End/Joseph E. Lowery Blvd. (exit 55), destruction. West End

Wren’s Nest

Following the war, the area newspaper publisher Evan P. Howell became a thriving residential and called the area home. Former Secre- mercantile district, complete with its tary of State Dean Rusk spent his own school, a horse-drawn trolley car childhood in West End. system traveling Lee, Ashby, and Gor- The area declined as Atlanta grew don Sts., and a railroad depot. The to the north. Large parcels of land location of the rail line made this one were taken in the 1950s for the con- of Atlanta’s first commuter neighbor- struction of Interstate 20. In the hoods. Residents could board the 1960s, black Atlantans, especially train and travel downtown in min- staff and faculty members at nearby utes. At the time, this was the west- Atlanta University, began purchasing ernmost destination served by the the old homes. A decade later, local commuter train, and locals began developer Wade Burns initiated a referring to their community as “West community-wide restoration effort End.” The availability of reliable that attracted buyers of both races. transportation spurred residential Today West End continues to growth and, by the 1890s, West End’s develop as a rich multicultural com- population exceeded 2,000. munity. Information on West End’s In the late 1880s, a fire destroyed history, architecture, and events is several large residences. The catastro- available from the West End Neigh- 47 phe affirmed that the community had borhood Development website, outgrown its firefighting capabilities www.atlantawestend.com. and water supplies, prompting a peti- tion for annexation to Atlanta. This HISTORICAL MARKERS was approved and enacted on Janu- 1. The Wren’s Nest—Home ary 1, 1894. At the turn of the century, of Joel Chandler Harris— writers Joel Chandler Harris and in front of the house at 1050 Madge A. Big ham, as well as Atlanta Abernathy Blvd. INTOWN 2. The Exterior Line, July–August defense of Atlanta. Howell later be- 1864—Abernathy Blvd. at Cascade Rd. came publisher of the Atlanta Constitu- tion (1877–97). Howell’s home, known NOTABLE PLACES as Woodlawn, once stood at the cor- 1. The Wren’s Nest (1870)— ner of Howell Pl. and Peeples St. 1050 Abernathy Blvd. Home 5. Hammonds House Galleries of author Joel Chandler Harris, (1850s)—503 Peeples St. This pre–Civil whose “Uncle Remus” stories have War home was remodeled in the entertained generations of America’s Eastlake style by author Madge A. children. The rambling Victorian Bigham when she resided there in home is open to the public for a the 1890s. A writer of children’s sto- small fee and is the site of numerous ries, Bigham is believed to have oper- special events each year. It was desig- ated the first private kindergarten in nated a National Landmark in 1978. Atlanta in this house. Restored by Hours: 10 AM–2:30 PM, Tues.–Sat. Dr. Otis T. Hammonds, the house is Information: 404-753-7735; www. now open to the public as a special wrensnestonline.com events facility and gallery for African 2. West Hunter St. Baptist Church American Art. Hours: 10 AM–6 PM, (1930s)—1040 Abernathy Blvd. Origi- Tues.–Fri.; 1 PM–6 PM, Sat. and Sun. nally built for a predominantly white Information: 404-752-8730; www. congregation, the structure was hammondshouse.org. acquired by the current congregation 6. Pan African Orthodox Church— in the late 1950s when the racial mix 960 Abernathy Blvd. Housed in an of the neighborhood changed. For old movie theater, this small congre- many years, the Rev. Ralph David gation plays an active role in West Abernathy, civil rights leader, col- End life, operating several shops and league of Dr. Martin Luther King, Jr., a day care center. and one-time president of the South- 7. West End Performing Arts ern Christian Leadership Conference, Center (1950s)—945 Abernathy Blvd. served as its pastor. Opened in 1996 and located in a 3. Watkins Funeral Home (1907)— former library building, the center 1003 Abernathy Blvd. A neighborhood houses classroom and studio space, 48 landmark, this large bun galow-style as well as a 150-seat theater. It is building started out as the residence sponsored by the Fulton County Arts of real estate agent William Foster. Council. Information: 404-756-6465; 4. E. P. Howell Park (1905)— www.fultonarts.org. Corner of Peeples St. and Abernathy 8. St. Anthony’s Roman Catholic Blvd. This park was created from the Church (1918)—928 Abernathy Blvd. estate of Evan P. Howell, a former This sandstone structure houses Confederate artillery officer who one of the city’s oldest Catholic fought at Chickamauga and in the congregations. West End West End 53

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'037 . INTOWN 9. Site of Whitehall Tavern (built was commanded by Gen. Colin Pow- 1835)—southeast corner of Lee St. ell before he became chairman of the and Abernathy Blvd. Historians Joint Chiefs of Staff. Many buildings believe this to be site of Charner date to the 1890s, and several are Humphries’s stagecoach stop and listed on the National Register of tavern. Lee St. follows the route of Historic Places. The fort is scheduled the old Newnan–Decatur Rd. to close in 2011; the future of the his- 10. Recent Restorations (1880– toric site remains uncertain. 1910)—900–1000 block of Oglethorpe u Lionel Hampton Trail and West- Ave. to Ashby St. and Ashby St. to side Trail—this 6.8-mile paved, multi- Abernathy Blvd. Renovations of use PATH Foundation trail from period homes provide a glimpse of Willis Mill Rd. to James P. Braw ley West End as it appeared at the turn Dr. links Atlanta University, historic of the century. New residential con- neighborhoods, and local parks. struction continues the Victorian u Westview Cemetery (1884)— architectural theme. 1680 Gordon Rd. One of the city’s oldest cemeteries, Westview is distin- SPECIAL FEATURES AND EVENTS guished by a stone gatehouse and a u West End Tour of Homes spon- Spanish-baroque mausoleum. sored by West End Neighborhood Among the prominent Atlantans Development, Inc.—May buried at Westview are Asa Griggs u Wren’s Nest Fest—June Candler, founder of The Coca-Cola u Victorian Christmas at the Company; Joel Chandler Harris; Wren’s Nest—December Ralph McGill and Henry Grady (At- u West End Christmas Festival— lanta Constitution editors); William B. December Hartsﬁeld, six-term Atlanta mayor u Storytelling at the Wren’s (1937-41, 1942-61); Richard Rich, Nest—ongoing grandson of the founder of Rich’s De- partment Store; Robert W. Wood - NEARBY ATTRACTIONS ruff, longtime Coca-Cola chairman u Fort McPherson—210 Lee St. and philanthropist; and Dr. Edward This U.S. Army facility evolved Campbell Davis, cofounder (with Dr. 50 from the old McPherson Barracks, L. C. Fischer) of Crawford W. Long which housed Federal troops during Hospital (now Emory University Hos- Reconstruction. The fort is named pital Midtown) and leader of the for Union Gen. James B. McPherson, Emory Medical Unit in World War I. who was killed in the Battle of Atlanta. Headquarters for all Army OTHER WALKS IN THE AREA Commands based in North America, #1 Atlanta Heritage Trails “Fort Mac” (as it is known locally) #2 Atlanta University Center #4 Outdoor Activity Center INTOWN C H A P T E R 4

small creek. From there, paths Outdoor meander along the northern slopes of Bush Mountain before a moder- Activity ate ascent back to the visitor center. For most of the route, the trails are Center shaded by pines and hardwoods. In spring, a profusion of wildﬂowers spreads along the creek banks and hillsides.

DRIVING DIRECTIONS Travel I-20 to Ashby St. (exit 55), south to Ralph David Abernathy Blvd., west on Abernathy Blvd. to a fork, south at the fork onto Cascade Ave., east on Beecher St., south on LOCATION Rochelle Dr., and west on Richland The Outdoor Activity Center is Rd. The Center’s entrance will be on located at 1442 Richland Rd. in the left. southwest Atlanta, about 5.5 miles from downtown. The walk begins Parking at the visitor center. There is a gravel parking area adja- GPS: N33.43.828/W84.26.105 cent to the visitor center.

TRAIL DISTANCE PUBLIC TRANSPORTATION The current trail system con- From the West End MARTA sists of three interconnecting rail station, take the #71 Cas- loops. A walk along all three is about cade Rd. bus westbound and exit on 51 1.5 miles. either Beecher St. or Richland Rd. and walk a few blocks east to the TERRAIN Center. MARTA: 404-848-5000; From the visitor center, the www.itsmarta.com trails descend through mature woodlands to a creek and BACKGROUND ﬂoodplain, crossing on wooden Called “Atlanta’s Forest in the City,” footbridges to the south bank of a the Outdoor Activity Center pre- INTOWN

Bridge over creek

serves a 26-acre woodland nestled mostly undeveloped Cascade Springs on the side of Bush Mountain. The Nature Preserve. Hours: 9 AM–4 PM, steep slopes and meandering creek Mon.–Sat. Information: 404-752-5385; valley discouraged residential expan- www.wawaonline.org sion during the area’s development in the 1940s, and the area was per- NOTABLE PLACES manently preserved with the estab- 1. Visitor Center (1995)—This lishment of the Center in 1975. contemporary wooden Owned by the City of Atlanta building houses classrooms, exhibit Parks Department, the Outdoor spaces, administrative offices, and a Activity Center is now operated by small gift shop. Adjacent to the build- the West Atlanta Watershed Alliance ing is a composting demonstration (WAWA) a private, nonprofit educa- site, a play scape, a picnic area, and a tional organization dedicated to a tree house. hands-on approach to understand- 2. Site of Atlanta Black Crackers’ ing the environment and preserving Field—Plaza and Loma Linda Aves. local greenspaces. Demonstrations This open field was used by the Negro and workshops are held for both League Atlanta Black Crackers as a 52 children and adults. Educational practice field in the 1920s and 30s. programs are held in the visitor cen- 3. Community Garden—Bridges ter’s classroom and exhibit spaces. Ave. at Loma Linda St. Located on The Center is open to all who wish to the southern edge of the property, take a class, view exhibits, or simply the garden is the product of a multi- explore the remarkably well-pre- year partnership between the Center served Piedmont forest. Plans are and the surrounding residential under consideration to expand community. the Center to include the nearby, Outdoor Actiivity Center

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'03. 7 INTOWN SPECIAL FEATURES AND EVENTS The Center hosts a wide variety of outdoor educational programs throughout the year for school groups, civic groups, scout troops, and interested adults. Contact the center for information. u Urban Forestry Festival—April u Day in Our Parks Celebration— August

NEARBY ATTRACTIONS u Adams Park and Alfred Tup Holmes Golf Course (City of Atlanta). Pro shop: 404-753-6158 u Cascade Springs Nature Preserve u Fort McPherson (U.S. Army) u John A. White Park (City of Atlanta)

OTHER WALKS IN THE AREA #2 Atlanta University Center #3 West End #5 Cascade Springs Nature Preserve

54 INTOWN C H A P T E R 5

the creek valley on a return to the Cascade starting point.

Springs DRIVING DIRECTIONS From I-75/85, travel west on Nature I-20 to Rev. Joseph Lowery Dr. (exit 55). Turn south and travel south to Preserve Ralph David Abernathy Blvd. Turn west and drive about 1 mile and bear south on Cascade Rd. Follow Cas- cade for 3.3 miles. The park entrance will be on the left. The preserve may also be reached by traveling east from I-285 on Cascade Rd. (exit 7) and driving 1.2 miles to the preserve.

LOCATION Parking The preserve is located about 6 miles There is a paved parking area south west of downtown. The hike begins of the preserve entrance. at the boardwalk by the parking area. GPS: N33.44.923/W84.22.379 PUBLIC TRANSPORTATION Take MARTA Bus #71 Cascade Rd. TRAIL DISTANCE westbound, operating from the West There is a 3-mile network of End rail station. MARTA: 404-848- trails in the preserve; the pro- 5000; www.itsmarta.com ﬁled walk is about 2.3 miles. BACKGROUND TERRAIN Tucked into the upscale Cas- 55 The path descends from cade Heights neighborhood, the parking area, across a this 120-acre preserve is a blend of bridge over Turkeyfoot Creek. It wooded wilderness and historic then ascends along the slopes of ground just a short distance from the the wooded hills above Utoy Creek heart of the city. Two centuries ago, before descending along loops and this was Creek Indian land. Cascade switchbacks to the site of the Cas- Rd. follows the path of the Sandtown cade Springs. From there it follows Trail, a trading path connecting the INTOWN

Cascade Springs spring house

village of Sandtown on the nearby On August 4, 1864, Sherman Chattahoochee with other villages ordered Gen. John Schofield to throughout the region. After the advance with his 23rd Corps toward Creeks were forced from these lands East Point to capture the line. How- by treaties in the 1820s, the path, then ever, dissension among his officers called the Sandtown Rd., became forced postponement of this move- well used as a main wagon road con- ment for two days, allowing Confed- necting the expanding village of Ter- erate Gen. John B. Hood time to minus (later Atlanta) with Alabama. dispatch troops under the command William Gilbert, an early pioneer set- of Gen. William Hardee to dig a new tler on this land, was Fulton County’s line of entrenchments west of the first physician and a member of the city to protect the railroad line. The state legislature in 1843. western sections of these defensive The Atlanta and LaGrange Rail- fortifications were located south of road was chartered in 1847 (and the Sandtown Rd. in the wooded renamed the Atlanta and West Point hills above Utoy Creek. 56 Railroad in 1857), following a south- The Battle of Utoy Creek com- westward route from East Point to menced early in the morning of Alabama, passing near the site of the August 6, when Federal Kentucky present preserve. During the Civil troops (11th U.S. Regiment, 23rd War, Union Gen. William T. Sher- Corps) attacked strong Rebel fortifi- man sought to capture the four rail- cations manned by fellow Kentucky roads that served as Atlanta’s life- troops (4th C.S.A. Regiment, lines. One of these was the Atlanta Hardee’s Corps) near the waterfall and West Point. south of the Sandtown Rd. in an Cascade Springs Nature Preserve effort to turn the Confederates’ approached the City of Atlanta western flank. They were repulsed Bureau of Planning with an urgent with heavy losses and, after regroup- request that the property be pur- ing, came again only to be driven chased and set aside as a park pre- back a second time. While the battle serve. This idea was endorsed by the was a tactical victory for the Confed- Bureau and the city purchased the erates, it only delayed the eventual land for the Cascade Spring Nature capture of the railroad, and ulti- Preserve in 1979. Today, the preserve mately Atlanta, for a few weeks. is managed jointly by the City of Following the war, the area Atlanta Department of Parks, Recre- around the creek remained isolated ation and Cultural Affairs and the woods for nearly a half century; only West Atlanta Watershed Alliance a few people were aware of the min- (www.wawaonline.org), which also eral springs that fed the creek. At the manages the nearby Outdoor Activ- turn of the 20th century, John Zaring ity Center. The park is open 8 AM– purchased the property around the 3:30 PM Mon.–Fri. and 8 AM–5 PM spring and constructed commercial Sat.–Sun. Note: The entrance is gated greenhouses that were operated by and is locked when the preserve his family until the 1970s. A few is closed. abandoned buildings within the preserve may date to this operation. HISTORICAL MARKERS In 1913, two springs were classified There are no historical mark- by the Georgia State Geological Sur- ers on the trail, but there are vey as containing potentially health- two nearby on Cascade Rd. ful minerals. Three years later, the 1. Battle Of Utoy Creek—Cascade Cascade Springs Resort opened on Rd. west of Woodland Terrace part of the property. It featured a 2. The Embattled Ridge—Cascade hotel, a dance pavilion, a refresh- Rd. west of Woodland Terrace ment stand, and small tent bungalows. A decade later, the resort NOTABLE PLACES underwent redevelopment as a day- 1. Building Ruins (c. 1900s) time picnic destination with a —to the left of the board- restaurant, miniature golf course, walk south of the preserve entrance. 57 and tennis court. These businesses This abandoned structure may have fell on hard times during the Depres- been a pump house for the commer- sion and later closed. In the 1960s, cial greenhouses. John Zaring, Jr. sought to develop 2. Spring House (c. 1910s)—by pic- the property as a high-density con- nic area south of Turkeyfoot Creek. dominium community, but failed. One of two springhouse sites in the Finally, in 1975, members of preserve, this spring is still enclosed the Cascade Forest Association by a rustic stone structure. INTOWN 3. Outdoor Classroom (2000s)— and the McGhee Tennis Center Located in a wooded area by the u Lionel Hampton and Westside creek, the site offers an ideal setting PATH Trails—6.8-mile linear path for environmental education pro- connects Washington Park near grams. Atlanta University with Benjamin E. 4. Confederate Trenches (1864)— Mays Rd. east of Cascade Springs Located in the hills northeast of Nature Preserve Utoy Creek, these shallow trenches u Westview Cemetery—Estab- are the fading remnants of the exten- lished in 1884, this cemetery is the sive fortifications built by Rebel de- final resting place for many notable fenders to protect the railroad lines. Atlantans, and the site of the Civil 5. Building Ruins (c. 1950s)—south War Battle of Ezra Church. See West of the Terrace Trail. This small struc- End (#3) for more details. ture may have been a pump house for the greenhouse operations. OTHER WALKS IN THE AREA 6. Stream Cascade—along the #2 Atlanta University Center creek east of the picnic area. The #3 West End waters flow beneath Cascade Rd. #4 Outdoor Activity Center before tumbling over weathered stones to the wetlands below. The springs were a popular picnic destination a century ago, and remain so today. 7. Springs Site—south side of the creek by boardwalk. This is the second spring site in the preserve. The springhouse vanished long ago.

SPECIAL FEATURES AND EVENTS The West Atlanta Watershed Alliance offers occasional events in the preserve. Information: 404-752- 58 5385; www.wawaonline.org NEARBY ATTRACTIONS u Adams Park (City of Atlanta)— Park features tennis courts, recreation center, and the Alfred Tup Holmes Golf Course u John A. White Park (City of Atlanta)—Park includes a golf course

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to Boulevard (exit 59), then north to Historic Memorial Dr.

Oakland Parking Parking is permitted along the wider Cemetery paved roads within the cemetery. Parking is also permitted on Martin Luther King, Jr. Dr. outside the cemetery’s main gate.

PUBLIC TRANSPORTATION The King Memorial rail station is adjacent to the northwest corner of the cemetery. MARTA: 404-848-5000; www.itsmarta.com LOCATION One mile east of downtown. The BACKGROUND profiled trek begins at the Bell Tower. On a mist-shrouded morning, Oak- GPS: N33.44.923/W84.22.381 land Cemetery looks like a metropolis in miniature. Cross-topped spires TRAIL DISTANCE peek above the fog, and the shadows A walk through the cemetery is of ornate mausoleums, some almost about 2.3 miles. as large as houses, cast a dark out- line. Markers of all sizes and shapes TERRAIN dot the landscape. The cemetery is The terrain is mostly level, so crowded that if the spirits were to with some gentle hills. rise some Halloween night, they 60 Numerous old shade trees enhance would surely bump into one another. the setting. Walkers should be alert When it was established in 1850, to uneven or broken pavement and this site along Decatur St. was cho- tree roots. sen because it was well out from town and away from Atlanta’s north- DRIVING DIRECTIONS ward path of development. Begin- Travel I-75/85 south to Martin ning with only 6 acres and eventually Luther King, Jr. Dr. (exit 248) or I-20 growing to the present 48, the cemetery was Atlanta’s only public burial Historic Oakland Cemetery ground for 35 years. old Fulton Bag and Citizens of all races Cotton Mill (now a and classes, from residential complex). statesmen and mer- Near this site, on Sep- chants to servants tember 1, 1864, and slaves, were laid Hood’s retreating to rest here. Confederate troops During the Civil destroyed their War, the city’s hospi- ammunition trains tals were over- and supplies in a whelmed with massive explosion wounded and dying and fire that burned soldiers. To meet the for hours. demand for burial Following the war, space, a portion of the Atlanta Ladies the cemetery was set Kiser monuments and skyline Memorial Association aside for Confederate (ALMA) was estab- dead. In this area, lished to preserve the nearly 6,900 soldiers are buried, graves of the Confederate dead. On 3,000 unknown. Among them, in the April 29, 1866, they organized the first last row of Section C, are 16 Union Confederate Memorial Day services soldiers who died in Confederate in Atlanta at the cemetery. The fol- field hospitals around Atlanta (note lowing year, April 26 (the date in 1865 the Grand Army of the Republic when Gen. Joseph Johnston surren- medallions near the graves). A marker dered to Gen. W. T. Sherman) was along the south wall commemorates adopted as the day of memorial, and James J. Andrews and the Union the tradition continues to the present raiders who participated in the 1862 day at Confederate cemeteries Great Locomotive Chase. Several throughout the South. In 1874, a 65- raiders were executed as spies and foot obelisk was erected in honor of interred here until their bodies were “Our Confederate Dead.” The mag- relocated to the National Cemetery in nificent statue of the dying lion, Chattanooga after the Civil War. sculpted from a single piece of mar- 61 Nearby, on Bell Tower Ridge in the ble from Tate, Ga., was placed here in northern section of the cemetery, a 1896. The lion was commissioned by historical marker notes the site of the ALMA as a tribute to the unknown Williams family home where Confed- soldiers buried here. erate commander Gen. John B. Hood In 1872, the cemetery was officially watched the pivotal Battle of Atlanta renamed “Oakland,” and by the lat- on July 22, 1864. To the northeast of ter half of the 19th century, promi- the cemetery grounds, you see the nent families routinely invested in INTOWN elaborate memorials, author of Gone With mausole ums, and the Wind. ornate funerary art. In March 2008, a This style was devastating tornado in keeping with ripped through down- the rural cemetery town Atlanta and movement of the caused considerable time and contributed damage to Oakland. to the development Century-old trees of the cemetery’s were felled, grave park-like atmos- markers overturned, phere. Atlanta had and many monu- few public parks at ments toppled. the time, and Remarkably, with the Atlantans often help from many spent Sunday after- sources and countless noons picnicking volunteers, Oakland is in the cemetery and rebuilding and is more strolling through popular than ever its grounds. with history buffs, By the 1880s, the Richards mausoleum joggers, and strollers. cemetery was nearing A visit to Oakland capacity, and other Cemetery will reveal municipal burial grounds were poignant epitaphs, ornate monu- established around the city. Today, ments, and fascinating human his- after more than 160 years, over tory. Detailed walking tour maps of 70,000 are interred at Oakland, and Oakland are available for purchase the cemetery remains, as historian in the Bell Tower gift shop. The Franklin Garrett described it, “At - cemetery is open 8 AM–8 PM daily lanta’s most tangible link between (one hour later in spring and sum- past and present.” mer). Information: 404-688-2107; Among the notable Atlantans www.oaklandcemetery.com 62 buried here are the city’s first mayor, Moses Formwalt; Martha Lumpkin HISTORICAL MARKERS Compton, daughter of Gov. Wilson 1. Where General Hood Lumpkin, for whom the small village Watched The Battle of of Marthasville was named; Capt. Atlanta—located between the William Fuller, engineer of the loco- visitor center and the north wall motive Texas in the 1862 Great Loco- 2. Oakland Cemetery—outside motive Chase; legendary golfer the entrance gate on Martin Luther Bobby Jones; and Margaret Mitchell, King, Jr. Dr. Historic Oakland Cemetery 3. Andrews Raiders—on the second story of this home. cemetery’s south wall on Rogers Hill 4. Richards Mausoleum (c. 1880s) —Bell Tower Ridge. One of Oakland’s NOTABLE PLACES most ornate mausoleums, this Author’s note: The following Gothic Revival structure was con- are only a selection of the structed for banker Robert Richards, many notable sites throughout the his- one of post–Civil War Atlanta’s toric burial ground. wealthiest citizens. 1. Bell Tower (1899)—Bell Tower 5. Kiser Mausoleum (c. 1870s)— Ridge. This two-story brick structure Knit Mill. Wealthy merchant Marion was erected as the Sexton’s office Kiser had this Romanesque Revival and receiving area for funerals. Today mausoleum built for his family. His it houses a gift shop, the Sexton’s son Eddie’s nearby monument is rich office, and the offices of the Historic in funerary symbolism. Oakland Cemetery Foundation. 6. Brown Family Lot (c. 1890s)— 2. Grant Mausoleum (1888)—Bell Knit Mill. This large lot with its tow- Tower Ridge. This eclectic-style mau- ering obelisk featuring the angel soleum is the final resting place of Gabriel is the final resting place for John Grant, his young son Hugh two governors. Joseph E. Brown was Inman Grant, for whom Georgia the state’s only four-term governor Tech’s football field (Grant Field) is and was the chief executive during named, and Grant’s brother-in-law, the Civil War. He later served in Gov. John Slaton. In 1915, Slaton the U.S. Senate and as Chief Justice spoke against the sentence of con- of the Georgia Supreme Court. victed murderer Leo Frank (who was His son, Joseph M. Brown, was a later lynched) and was threatened by railroad executive and two-term angry mobs for doing so. After his governor. death many years later, his grave 7. William Fuller (1905)—Knit remained unmarked due to lingering Mill. The monument marks the final ill feelings. Newspaper editor Henry resting place of Confederate Capt. Grady’s body was held here follow- William Fuller. Fuller was the con- ing his 1889 death until completion ductor of the locomotive General of his tomb at Westview Cemetery. when it was stolen by Andrews’ 63 3. Site of Gen. Hood’s Headquar- Raiders on April 12, 1862. Chasing ters (1864)—Bell Tower Ridge. A his- the raiders in the locomotive Texas toric marker rests at the location of (traveling in reverse), Fuller captured the home of Atlanta Mayor James the Union spies at Ringgold, Ga. Williams. Gen. John B. Hood, com- The engineer of the General, Jeff mander of the city’s Confederate Cain, is also buried at Oakland. defenders, watched the Battle of 8. Margaret Mitchell Marsh Atlanta on July 22, 1864, from the (1949)—Knit Mill. Resting beside her INTOWN

Margaret Mitchell Marsh

husband, John Marsh, is Margaret the city and its inhabitants, Garret Mitchell, author of the Pulitzer Prize– was considered Atlanta’s “official winning novel, Gone With the Wind. historian.” He and his wife were 9. Hibernian Benevolent Society given this plot in appreciation for his Square (1873)—Knit Mill. This open many years of service to the city. square of land was donated to the 12. The Watch House (1908)— cemetery in 1873 in memory of Fr. Original Six Acres. This small brick Thomas O’Reilly, pastor of nearby structure served as sentry house Immaculate Conception Roman for the cemetery’s guards and night Catholic Church. Fr. O’Reilly minis- watchmen. tered to many wounded soldiers, 13. Oakland Cemetery Main both Union and Confederate, in Entrance Portal (1896)—Martin Atlanta hospitals during the Civil War Luther King, Jr. Dr. The formal and persuaded Gen. William T. Sher- entrance gate and red brick wall man to spare the city’s churches from enclosing the cemetery were com- destruction when occupying troops pleted in 1896. torched the city in November 1864. 14. Dr. James Nissen (c. 1850)— 10. Mayor Maynard H. Jackson Original Six Acres. This is believed 64 (2003)—Original Six Acres. Located to be the first recorded internment in at the edge of the North Public the cemetery following its opening. Ground set aside in 1850 is the grave Dr. Nissen became critically ill while of Maynard Jackson. Elected in 1974, visiting Atlanta and came under the Jackson was Atlanta’s first African- care of Dr. Noel P. P. D’Alvigny, one American mayor. of the city’s earliest physicians. 11. Franklin Garret (2000)—Origi- According to historians, Dr. Nissen nal Six Acres. Author of Atlanta and knew he was terminally ill, yet re- Environs, a comprehensive history of mained fearful of being buried alive. Historic Oakland Cemetery He asked Dr. D’Alvigny to sever his leave golf balls, clubs, and other jugular vein before burial; this was mementoes for golfing good luck. done at the graveside before the 20. Confederate Grounds body was interred. (c. 1860s) —Confederate Section. 15. Sarah Todd Ivy (1865)—Original During the Civil War, several Atlanta Six Acres. Sarah was the wife of Hardy hospitals treated thousands of ill Ivy who, in 1833, purchased a 202-acre and wounded soldiers from distant land lot in what would become battlefields. In 1864, as the fighting downtown Atlanta. He was report- drew nearer Atlanta, the casualties edly the first white settler in the area. mounted and many soldiers were Hardy Ivy died in an 1842 wagon acci- hastily buried. Following the war, the dent and his burial site is unknown. ladies of ALMA had bodies exhumed 16. Martha Lumpkin Compton from shallow battlefield graves and (1917)—Original Six Acres. In 1843, reinterred here. Today, the grounds when she was the 16-year old daugh- hold the remains of 6,900 Confeder- ter of Georgia Gov. Wilson Lumpkin, ate dead, of which almost 3,000 are the village of Terminus was renamed unidentified. Look carefully and you Marthasville in her honor. Two years will see tombstones marking the later, it was renamed Atlanta. final resting places of 16 Union sol- 17. Neal Monument (c. 1890s)— diers who died in Atlanta hospitals Original Six Acres. One of the most and were buried here. evocative and powerful monuments 21. Jacobs Family Mausoleum in the cemetery, it was erected by (1890s)—Jewish Hill. Interred here Thomas Neal in memory of his is Joseph Jacobs, who apprenticed daughter and wife. The monument at the Athens apothecary of Dr. is rich in funerary symbolism. Crawford Long, before studying 18. Old Jewish Burial Ground pharmacy in Philadelphia. Dr. Long (1860)—Original Six Acres. Purchased was considered the “father of by David Mayer, President of the painless surgery” for being the first Hebrew Benevolent Association, this documented administrator of ether small area was set aside for burials of as an anesthetic in 1842. Jacobs Atlanta’s early Jewish residents. Two opened his own drugstore in down- other Jewish burial grounds, east of town Atlanta. In 1887 it became the 65 this site, were added in later years. first place where Coca-Cola was 19. Robert T. “Bobby” Jones served as a soft drink. (1971)—Original Six Acres. This mod- 22. Sen. Benjamin H. Hill (1882)— est marker against the cemetery’s Rogers Hill. Considered one of Geor- southern wall identifies the final gia’s great orators, Hill served in the resting place of the legendary golfer, state legislature, the Confederate an Atlanta native. Golfers from Congress (despite his opposition around the world visit the grave and to secession), the U.S. House of INTOWN Representatives, and the U.S. Sen- during the French Revolution. The ate. Note the epitaph on the obelisk, Lion of Atlanta honors the nearly which he wrote following the loss of 3,000 unknown Confederate dead his voice due to cancer. interred in the surrounding ground. 23. Potters’ Field (1866)—This The statue was commissioned by 5.7-acre meadow holds the bodies ALMA and dedicated on Confeder- of nearly 7,500 people, mostly pau- ate Memorial Day in 1894. pers, slaves, and travelers, buried in 28. Confederate Monument unmarked graves. (1874)—Confederate Section. Com- 24. Carrie Steele Logan (1900)— missioned by ALMA, the base was African-American Section. A former dedicated on October 15, 1870—the slave, Logan founded Atlanta’s first day of Gen. Robert E. Lee’s funeral orphanage for black children in 1888. in Virginia. The 65-foot obelisk of She cared for thousands of children Stone Mountain granite was com- before her death in 1900. The Carrie pleted and dedicated on Confeder- Steele (Pitts) home continues to ate Memorial Day in 1874. At the serve needy children today. time, it was one of the tallest struc- 25. Antoine Graves Mausoleum tures in Atlanta. (1941)—African-American Section. A 29. John B. Gordon (1904)— realtor and principal of the city’s Confederate Section. Gordon was black high school, Graves was one of a renowned military and political the city’s wealthiest black residents. figure. Despite having no formal mil- His mausoleum is the only one in the itary training, he served with distinc- African-American section. tion in the Civil War as a general in 26. Bishop Wesley John Gaines the Army of Northern Virginia, under (1912)—African-American Section. command of Gen. Robert E. Lee. Rev. Gaines was a bishop in the After the war, he was elected to the African Methodist Episcopal Church U.S. Senate and, later, was elected and second pastor of historic Big governor of Georgia. His statue on Bethel AME Church in Sweet Auburn. the grounds of the State Capitol is (See #1.) He was a founder of Morris the only equestrian statue in Atlanta. Brown College on the Atlanta Univer- 30. Dr. Noel P. P. D’Alvigny 66 sity Center campus. (See #2.) (1877)—Greenhouse Valley. Born in 27. The Lion of Atlanta (1894)— France in 1800, D’Alvigny served as a Confederate Section. Carved by T. surgeon in the French army before M. Brady from a single block of immigrating to the United States granite, the lion is patterned after and settling in Atlanta in 1848. He the Lion of Lucerne in Lucerne, was a founder of the city’s first med- Switzerland, which was sculpted to ical college in 1854 and remained in honor Swiss Guards who died in the city to care for wounded during defense of Marie Antoinette in 1792

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the Civil War. Many believe he was u Tunes from the Tombs—a week- the inspiration for the Dr. Meade end of music—May character in Margaret Mitchell’s u Twilight Tours—Guided tours Gone With the Wind. conducted by Historic Oakland 31. Old Greenhouse and Mainte- Foundation volunteers. Information: nance Shops (1908)—Greenhouse 404-688-2107; www.oaklandcemetery.com Valley. This structure replaced Oak- land Cemetery’s original greenhouse, NEARBY ATTRACTIONS constructed in 1870, which was the u Atlanta Cyclorama ﬁrst greenhouse in the city. The com- u Downtown Atlanta plex also included stables, a coal business district house, and maintenance sheds. u Martin Luther King, Jr. Future plans call for restoration of National Historic District these structures. u Grant Park 32. “Out in the Rain” Sculpture u Zoo Atlanta Fountain (1913)—Bell Tower Ridge. Created by J. L. Mott Iron Works in OTHER WALKS IN THE AREA New York, this is a replica of a foun- #1 Atlanta Heritage Trails tain from the U.S. Centennial cele- #7 Grant Park bration in Philadelphia in 1876. The #8 Inman Park City of Atlanta Cemetery Commis- #9 Freedom Park, Candler Park, sion purchased the fountain for & Little Five Points $100, and it recently underwent a #16 Druid Hills $10,000 restoration. 33. Moses Formwalt Memorial (1916)—Bell Tower Ridge. Formwalt was elected Atlanta’s ﬁrst mayor in 1848. He later served as a DeKalb County deputy sheriff and was killed in the line of duty in 1852. Originally buried in an unmarked grave at Oak- land, his body was exhumed and 68 placed beneath this marker in 1916. SPECIAL FEATURES AND EVENTS u Sunday in the Park—October u Run Like Hell (5K) and Run Like Heck (1K)—October u Spirits of Oakland Candlelight Tours—weekend before Halloween N E A R T O W N C H A P T E R 7

both old brick and new cement side- Grant walks are plentiful.

Park DRIVING DIRECTIONS Travel east on I-20 from downtown to Boulevard (exit 59), south to Sydney St., east to Cherokee Ave., and south to the park entrance.

Parking Ample parking is available in the facilities adjacent to Zoo Atlanta and the Cyclorama. Street parking is permitted on most side streets.

PUBLIC TRANSPORTATION LOCATION Regular MARTA bus service About 2 miles southeast of down- (#32 Georgia Aquarium/Zoo town. The walk begins at the Zoo Atlanta) connects with the Five Atlanta administration building on Points rail station. The King Memo- the western side of the park. rial rail station is located about 0.75 GPS: W33.44.063/N 84.22.349 mile north of the park near Oakland Cemetery. MARTA: 404-848-5000; TRAIL DISTANCE www.itsmarta.com The loop is about 5 miles; a stroll through the zoo adds BACKGROUND about 1 mile. Once rolling forest land inhabited by Creek Indians, Grant Park and its 69 TERRAIN surrounding neighborhood are sce- The park slopes moderately nic and historic. The hilltop areas on downward from north to the park’s eastern boundary were south between two ridges that home to Confederate artillery batter- extend along Grant St. and Boule- ies that rained shot and shell on vard. Shade trees abound through- Union troops during the Battle of out both the park and the Atlanta. While the battle raged, surrounding neighborhood, and these now-tranquil grounds saw INTOWN

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plenty of hostile action. Fort Walker, lowed many of the in-town neighbor- an earthen Confederate battery hoods into an era of decline. emplacement named for Confeder- Since the 1970s, Grant Park has ate Gen. William H. T. Walker, killed enjoyed an influx of people restoring in the battle, now contains a play- older homes and building new ones. ground and picnic area. On any weekend during the year, In 1882, Col. Lemuel P. Grant, a walkers in the area are likely to hear Maine native and former Confeder- the sounds of power tools as work ate engineer who had helped design continues. Information on local Atlanta’s defenses against the invad- events is available from the neighboring Federals, donated 100 acres near hood association, the Grant Park his home to the city for use as a pub- Conservancy (www.gpconservancy.org). lic park. A commission was formed Even during the period of the to supervise construction of recre- neighborhood’s decline, Grant Park ational facilities including pavilions, remained a popular gathering place. athletic fields, and a boating lake, Two attractions helped secure Grant Lake Abana. In 1885, the city acquired Park’s popularity. The Cyclorama, 70 additional land around the park to a circular painting depicting the Bat- encourage residential development. tle of Atlanta on the afternoon of Like Inman Park, its neighbor to July 22, 1864, has drawn crowds for the north, Grant Park became a thriv- decades. The canvas stands 50 feet ing area in Victorian Atlanta. This high and measures more than 400 growth continued well into the 20th feet in circumference. It was painted century; however, following World in the 1880s by a group of German War II, the population growth shifted artists for a permanent traveling exhi- to the suburbs, and Grant Park fol- bition and is one of only two such Grant Park paintings to survive into this century tence in 1899, when Gress purchased (the other is at Gettysburg National the menagerie of a defunct circus Military Park in Pennsylvania) The and donated the animals to the city. painting cost $40,000 to complete, In 1935 Asa Candler, Jr., son of the but early efforts to profit from dis- founder of The Coca-Cola Company, playing it were financial failures. tendered his private collection of wild In 1893, shortly before it was to animals, which had been housed on be destroyed, the painting was his estate in Druid Hills. Records purchased by Ernest Woodruff for show that the generous act was $1,000. It was subsequently sold to made in part because of threatened George Gress and Charles Northen, lawsuits from several of Candler’s who moved it to Grant Park. They neighbors, who strenuously objected donated the painting to the city in to the presence of predatory animals 1898, and the building that houses it so close to their homes. Zoo Atlanta was constructed in 1921. The painting underwent massive renovations to underwent extensive restoration by develop exhibits with natural habi- the Works Progress Administration tats, and was expanded in the late (WPA) in the 1930s, under the direc- 1980s. Today it is regarded as one of tion of Atlanta artist and historian the nation’s finest zoos. Wilbur Kurtz, and the three-dimen- In recognition of its significant sional figures in the foreground were role in the history of Atlanta, the added at that time. For the premiere Grant Park area has been placed on of Gone With the Wind, one figure the National Register of Historic was repainted to resemble Clark Places. Gable. The canvas was extensively cleaned and restored again in the HISTORICAL MARKERS 1980s, and the building housing it 1. Fort Walker—inside the was remodeled. The Cyclorama park, off Boulevard, at the building includes a museum with a Fort Walker site collection of Georgia artifacts that 2. Grant Park—at the Cherokee emphasizes Civil War memorabilia. Ave. entrance to Zoo Atlanta’s park- Located in the lobby is the steam ing area locomotive Texas, famous for its part 71 in the 1862 Great Locomotive Chase. NOTABLE PLACES The other engine involved, the Gen- 1. Zoo Atlanta Administra- eral, is in the Museum of Civil War tion Building (1950s)— and Locomotive History in Kenne- adjacent to the Zoo Atlanta and saw, Ga. (See #26.) Cyclorama parking areas, the build- Adjacent to the Cyclorama is Zoo ing houses zoo offices. Atlanta. Born from the generosity of 2. Zoo Atlanta—(1889) 800 Cher - George Gress, the zoo came into exis- okee Ave. Zoo exhibits include giant INTOWN pandas, African rain forest, East Girls High School and converted to a African plains, flamingo habitat, pet- coed institution after World War II, ting zoo, and a miniature train. An the massive brick structure with its admission fee is charged, and annual prominent dome is a rare example of memberships are available. Hours: Byzantine Revival architecture. It was 9:30 AM–5:30 PM, daily. Information: designed by the firm of Edwards and 404-624-5600; www.zooatlanta.org Sayler, with A.Ten Eyck Brown as 3. Atlanta Cyclorama (1921)—next supervising architect. The city closed to Zoo Atlanta on Cherokee Ave. The the school in 1985, and it has been massive Neoclassical granite struc- converted to luxury apartments. ture, designed by John Francis 7. Grant Park Gymnasium and Downing, contains the 400-foot Recreation Area (1930s–70s)—north circular painting of the Battle of of Berne St. entrance. This area Atlanta. Also located here is the includes a gym, basketball and ten- locomotive Texas, which is the cen- nis courts, playing fields, and a terpiece of an extensive museum of swimming pool. Information: 404- Civil War and Georgia history. Fee 624-0697 for admission. Hours: 9:15 AM–4:30 8. Masonic Lodge Building PM, Tues.–Sat; 12:15–3:30 PM, Sun. (1920s)—456 Cherokee Ave. This Information: 404-624-1071; building once housed the lodge and www.atlantacyclorama.org NR a movie theater. Today, the first floor 4. Fort Walker (1864)—on Boule- holds a restaurant and other small vard just southeast of the back of businesses. The building received a the Cyclorama. The earthen walls restoration award from the Atlanta mark the location of a Confederate Urban Design Commission in 1985. emplacement during the Battle of 9. St. Paul United Methodist Atlanta. Where cannons once Church (1906)—Sydney St. at Grant roared, children now play. St. The original church was located 5. Julius Fischer House (1886)— downtown on what is now Martin 620 Boulevard at Killian St. Julius Luther King, Jr. Dr. The congregation, Fischer, a building contractor, built established in 1871, relocated in 1906 this huge Victorian-style house and built this stone Romanesque 72 for his wife and 12 children. Julius’ Revival structure. Its stained glass cousin, Luther Fischer, M.D., window depicts the Resurrection. cofounded Crawford Long Hospital The church has undergone extensive (now Emory University Hospital renovations. Midtown). The Fischers sold the 10. Original Lemuel P. Grant home in 1920s, and for many years Home (1858)—327 St. Paul Ave. Col. it was a boarding house. L. P. Grant, a Confederate engineer 6. Roosevelt High School (1924)— who helped design and build the 745 Rosalia St. Originally built as city’s defenses against the Union Grant Park

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'037 . INTOWN invasion and later earned a fortune A large, formal stone entranceway in railroads, built this house before graces the street. The marble foun- the Civil War. His donation of this tain, dedicated to the memory of land to the city spurred the creation Judge John Erskine, originally sat at of the park named in his honor. The the intersection of Peachtree and Grant family watched the burning of West Peachtree Sts. and was moved Atlanta from the porch. Golfer to this location in 1912. Plans call for Bobby Jones was born in this house eventual restoration of the fountain. in 1902, and Margaret Mitchell purchased the property in 1941 with SPECIAL FEATURES AND EVENTS plans to restore it, but died before u Grant Park Tour of Homes— any work was done. Other subse- September quent owners have had the same u Christmas Candlelight Tour— dream, but it remained only partially December restored. Today, the home serves as u Frequent special events and ex- headquarters for the Atlanta Preser- hibits take place at Zoo Atlanta and vation Center and restoration work Cyclorama continues. Information: 404-688-3353; u Amateur athletic leagues in www.preserveatlanta.org football, softball, tennis, and other 11. William B. Hartsﬁeld House sports compete throughout the year (1902)—300 Milledge Ave. This sim- at the Grant Park facilities ple frame house was at one time the home of longtime Atlanta Mayor NEARBY ATTRACTIONS William Hartsﬁeld. u Turner Field—Atlanta Braves 12. James A. Burns House (1868)— Major League Baseball. 755 Hank 622 Grant St. One of the park area’s Aaron Dr. Guided Tours and older homes, this Queen Anne–style Braves Museum and Hall of Fame. structure, built for transplanted New Information: 404-614-2311; www. Englander James Austin Burns, con- atlantabraves.com tains more than 20 rooms and nearly 9,000 square feet of living space. OTHER WALKS IN THE AREA Longtime neighborhood residents #1 Atlanta Heritage Trails 74 relate stories that the house is #2 Atlanta University Center haunted, an idea enhanced by the #3 West End presence of several tombstones #6 Historic Oakland Cemetery belonging to the original owners in #8 Inman Park the front yard. After years of use as #9 Freedom Park, Candler Park, apartments, the house underwent & Little Five Points extensive renovation. 13. Ormond St. Park Entrance (1926)—Ormond St. at Cherokee Ave. INTOWN C H A P T E R 8

Carter Center on a route just north Inman of Inman Park.

Park DRIVING DIRECTIONS Travel I-20 east to Moreland Ave. (exit 60), north about 2 miles to the intersection of Euclid Ave. in Lit- tle Five Points, then west on Euclid Ave. to Park Ln.

Parking Parking is allowed on most streets and there is a large public lot at the Carter Center.

PUBLIC TRANSPORTATION LOCATION Inman Park–Reynoldstown rail About 2 miles east of downtown via station is adjacent to DeKalb Edgewood Ave. The walk begins at Ave. at Hurt St. MARTA: 404-848- the Inman Park–Reynoldstown 5000; www.itsmarta.com MARTA Station at Edgewood Ave. and Hurt St. BACKGROUND GPS: W33.45.445/N 84.21.246 Atlanta’s first planned suburb, Inman Park was developed by Joel TRAIL DISTANCE Hurt in the 1880s and named for his The loop through the area is friend and business associate Samuel about 3 miles. M. Inman. Hurt also owned the Atlanta and Edgewood Street Rail- 75 TERRAIN road Company, which operated the The trail is moderately hilly, streetcar line connecting the neigh- with a relatively steep ascent borhood with downtown, a five- to the Carter Center. Shade trees minute trolley ride away. Promoted shelter the area, and portions of the as Atlanta’s most prestigious residen- neighborhood have good sidewalks. tial address, Inman Park was home The PATH Foundation Atlanta– to several of the city’s business lead- Stone Mountain Trail passes the ers. Notable among them was Asa INTOWN G. Candler, founder homes were divided of The Coca-Cola into apartments, Company. His boarded up, or “Callan Castle” destroyed. remains a show- In the late 1960s, place. His brother urban pioneers re- Warren (a Metho - discovered the qual- dist bishop and later ity, charm, and en- chancellor of Emory during value the University) and his old homes still pos- nephew Charles sessed. The neigh- Candler also had borhood’s restora- homes in Inman tion became a Park. Ernest Wood - harbinger of the re- ruff, president of discovery of the the Trust Company benefits of urban liv- of Georgia, and ing. Today, the In- Wood ruff’s son man Park Neighbor- Robert, longtime hood Association, a Beath-Dickey house CEO of Coca-Cola, local civic group, is lived in the neigh- a strong organiza- borhood at one tion whose mascot time as well. With its tree-lined is the butterfly, a symbol of rebirth. avenues and large, ornate Victorian Some of the group’s notable accom- homes, Inman Park was the focal plishments include restoration of point of Atlanta’s social life for more Hurt’s Springvale Park and assistance than two decades. in development of Freedom Park. In the early years of the 20th Inman Park has a different allure century, however, some wealthier for those interested in the Civil War. residents moved to Hurt’s new The fiercest fighting of the Battle of development, Druid Hills, or moved Atlanta scorched the ground on the farther north to Ansley Park or Buck- eastern boundaries of the neighbor- 76 head. Consequently, Inman Park hood (near DeKalb, Moreland, and gradually became a quiet, middle- DeGress Aves.) on July 22, 1864. This class neighborhood. Lots were subdi- area is the focal point of the battle vided, and smaller homes were built. as it is represented in the Cyclorama Following World War II, Inman Park painting in Grant Park (see #5). The suffered decline as Atlanta grew and outcome of the battle hinged on the the convenience of the automobile success of a fierce attack by Gen. pushed the fashionable suburbs far- Benjamin Cheatham’s Confederates ther away from the central city. Many against the Federals along a line Inman Park stretching from Leggett’s Hill (More- hood has returned to the vision of its land Ave. and I-20) to the Georgia founder. Neighborhood event informa- Railroad tracks. Spearheading tion: www.inmanpark.org the assault was Confederate Brig. Gen. Arthur Manigault’s Brigade, HISTORICAL MARKERS which overran Union Capt. Francis 1. Pope House—DeKalb Ave. DeGress’s artillery battery posted in west of Battery Pl. front of the unfinished Troup-Hurt 2. The 15th Corps Sector— House. Masses of Rebels poured DeKalb Ave. between Battery Pl. and through a widening breach in the fal- DeGress Ave. tering line, and a Confederate vic- 3. The Railroad Cut—DeKalb tory seemed within grasp. Ave. between Battery Pl. and Union commander Maj. Gen. DeGress Ave. William T. Sherman saw the Rebel 4. Manigault’s Brigade—DeKalb breakthrough from his vantage point Ave. at DeGress Ave. at the Augustus Hurt House on 5. The Troup-Hurt House— Copenhill (site of the Jimmy Carter DeGress Ave. at the Baptist Church Presidential Center), and immediately 6. The Degress Battery—north ordered Maj. Gen. John Scho field’s end of DeGress Ave. artillery to pour a murderous fire on 7. Baker’s Brigade—Waverly Way the advancing enemy. At the same at the north end of Springvale Park time, Maj. Gen. Jonathan “Black 8. Brown’s and Clayton’s Divi- Jack” Logan, in temporary command sions—center of Delta Park on Edge- of the Union Army of the Tennessee wood Ave. following the death of Maj. Gen. 9. Springvale Park—Springvale James B. McPherson earlier in the Park at Waverly Way battle, brought up reinforcements 10. Augustus Hurt House— and reformed his lines, forcing a Con- Carter Center federate retreat. It is this pivotal 11. Augustus Hurt Plantation— moment in the battle that is vividly Carter Center captured in the Cyclorama painting. Numerous historical markers in the NOTABLE PLACES area guide the visitor through the 1. Site of the Troup-Hurt 77 troop movements and critical House (1864)—DeGress Ave. moments of the important battle. The East Atlanta Baptist Church Inman Park’s historical and archi- building, constructed in 1907, occu- tectural significance has been recog- pies the site of George Hurt’s unfin- nized by its placement on the ished home. Here was the vortex of National Register of Historic Places, the fierce fighting during the Battle and—with its connection to down- of Atlanta as depicted in the Cyclo- town via MARTA rail—the neighbor- rama painting at Grant Park. INTOWN 2. Site of De Gress’ Artillery Woodruff’s “honeymoon cottage.” It Battery (1864)—west side of DeGress is now a bed-and-breakfast inn. Ave. An historical marker denotes the 7. Beath-Dickey House (1890)— site of some of the fiercest fighting 866 Euclid Ave. This was one of the during the Battle of Atlanta on July first homes restored in Inman Park, 22, 1864. The guns of Capt. Francis De and Robert Griggs, who bought and Gress’s battery (1st Illinois Light restored it, was a leader of the neigh- Artillery), which were located here, borhood’s urban pioneer movement. were captured by South Carolinians The house, built for Atlanta Ice Com - under command of Brig. Gen Arthur pany executive John Beath, is an Manigault. The fighting to recapture excellent example of the high-Victo- these guns is the focal point of the rian Queen Anne style. Atlanta Cyclorama painting in Grant 8. Charles R. Winship House Park. (See #7.) (1893)—814 Edgewood Ave. An excel- 3. Heartfield Manor (1903)— lent example of the Eastlake style, 182 Elizabeth St. This brick home in this house was built for Charles R. the Arts and Crafts style is reminis- Winship, father of Emily Winship cent of an English country cottage. Woodruff, as his retirement home. It is now a bed and breakfast inn. The stained glass windows are origi- 4. Joel Hurt’s Second House nal. NR (1904)—167 Elizabeth St. A home 9. T. W. Latham House (1892)— more befitting the neighborhood’s 804 Edgewood Ave. Built for Atlanta developer than the cottage at 117 Eliz- business executive T. W. Latham, this abeth St., this large house was Queen Anne–style Victorian home designed in a Victorian Italianate with wide porches and turret is now style by Walter T. Downing. NR the Sugar Magnolia Bed & Break fast 5. Woodruff-Burrus House inn. (1890)—882 Euclid Ave. Built by Joel 10. Inman Park School (1892)— Hurt as a model house for his new 729 Edgewood Ave. This Victorian community, this house was pur- red brick schoolhouse was also chased by George Woodruff of designed by Gottfried Norrman. NR Columbus, Ga., for his son, Ernest, 11. Delta Park and Old Police 78 and daughter-in-law, Emily. The Lock-up (1880s)—Delta Park. house was designed by Gottfried Located in this small triangular park Norrman, a Swedish architect who is a single-person jail cell. Called an came to Atlanta in the early 1880s “iron maiden,” the cell was used by to design buildings for the Cotton foot patrolmen to hold prisoners States Exposition. NR until the paddy wagon stopped to 6. Robert W. Woodruff House pick them up. (1912)—100 Waverly Way. This brick 12. The George E. King House home overlooking Springvale Park was (1889)—889 Edgewood Ave. One of Inman Park

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AVE D DELTA PL EWOO N EDG10 GPS: N 33. 45. 445 W 84. 21. 246 INTOWN

Trolley Car Barn

Inman Park’s oldest houses, this ele- from Asa Candler. Woodruff’s son gant Victorian house was built in the Robert served for many years as Eastlake style for King, founder of chairman of The Coca-Cola Com- King Hardware Company. It is now pany. The Woodruffs moved to this the King–Keith House Bed & Break- house from nearby 882 Euclid Ave. fast Inn. NR 15. Inman Park Trolley Car Barn 13. The Charles V. LeCraw House (1890)—963 Edgewood Ave. This (1890)—897 Edgewood Ave. Built building housed the cars of Hurt’s for an Atlanta insurance executive, Atlanta and Edgewood Street Rail- this is a good example of the highway Company. The City of Atlanta Victorian homes for which the area and the Inman Park Neighborhood is noted. Association renovated the facility for 80 14. The Ernest and Emily Winship use as a community center. Informa- Woodruff House (1904)—908 Edge- tion: 404-521-2308. NR wood Ave. This 26-room, Walter T. 16. Inman Park United Methodist Downing–designed mansion was Church (1898)—1015 Edgewood Ave. built for Woodruff, longtime presi- This small stone church, with ele- dent and chairman of the Trust ments of the Romanesque Revival Company Bank. In 1919 Woodruff, style, was designed by Willis Denny. representing Trust Company Bank, The church’s ﬁrst pastor was Rev. purchased The Coca-Cola Company Wilber F. Glenn, for whom Glenn Inman Park Memorial Church at Emory Univer- NEARBY ATTRACTIONS sity is named. NR u Cabbagetown Historic District 17. Joel Hurt’s Cottage (1882)— u Poncey-Highland Shopping and 117 Elizabeth St. This fairly modest Dining District house was Hurt’s own home until 1904, when he moved to the mansion OTHER WALKS IN THE AREA on Elizabeth St. NR #1 Atlanta Heritage Trails 18. Callan Castle (1903)—145 Eliza- #6 Historic Oakland Cemetery beth St. This 14,000-square foot #7 Grant Park house was built by George Murphy #9 Freedom Park, Candler Park & in the Beaux Arts style for Asa G. Little Five Points Candler, founder of The Coca-Cola #15 Virginia-Highland & Company. Morningside 19. Jimmy Carter Presidential #16 Druid Hills Center (1985)—One Copenhill. The 35-acre center is home to the many organizations and programs sponsored and supported by the former president and Georgia governor. The Carter Center also houses the Jimmy Carter Presidential Library and Museum. The landscaped grounds include a Japanese garden designed by Kinsaku Nakane. Hours: 9 AM–4:45 PM, Mon.–Sat.; 12 PM– 4:45 PM, Sun. Information: 404-331- 0296; www.cartercenter.org

SPECIAL FEATURES AND EVENTS u Inman Park Festival and Tour of Homes—April u Delta Park (City of Atlanta)— picnic area 81 u Inman Park Guided Walking Tours—Atlanta Preservation Center: 404-876-2040; www.preserveatlanta.org u Springvale Park (City of Atlan - ta)—playground equipment, basketball court, pond, and picnic areas u Town hall meetings, lectures, and exhibitions at the Carter Center INTOWN C H A P T E R 9

descending past Candler Park Golf Freedom Park, Course. It climbs to Clif ton Rd. and continues on mostly level terrain Candler Park & through Candler Park commercial and residential areas along McLen- Little Five don Ave. It climbs a shallow rise, crossing Moreland Ave. and then Points descends past the Little Five Points commercial district before climbing again to the Carter Center. The land is a mix of heavily shaded residential streets and open spaces.

DRIVING DIRECTIONS Travel I-20 east to Moreland Ave. (exit 60), continue north about LOCATION 2 miles to Freedom Pkwy., then The walk begins at the Carter Center west to the Carter Center. Or travel located at 441 Freedom Pkwy., about I-75/85 north to Freedom Pkwy. 2 miles northeast of downtown. (exit 248), then east, following signs GPS: 33.46.027; 84.21.296 to the Carter Center.

TRAIL DISTANCE Parking The loop trail begins at the There is a large parking area at the intersection of the Freedom Carter Center. On-street parking is Park PATH Trail and the entrance available on some residential streets. to the Carter Center, travels through 82 Candler Park, and past Little Five PUBLIC TRANSPORTATION Points before returning to the Carter The trail is accessible from the Center. The distance is about Inman Park and Edgewood/ 5.2 miles. Candler Park MARTA rail stations or bus service connecting to Five TERRAIN Points is available via the Noble line From the Carter Center (#16). MARTA: 404-848-5000; www. atop Copenhill Ave., the itsmarta.com route follows rolling hills before Freedom Park, Candler Park, and Little Five Points

Freedom Park

BACKGROUND of several older homes along North This walk crosses open greenspaces Ave. and the erection of foundations created from urban redevelopment for a bridge that would span More- projects and through two of Atlan - land Ave. Parkway opponents even- ta’s historic intown communities, tually won a lawsuit that stopped Candler Park and Little Five Points. construction. For nearly a decade, In the early 1980s, as planning the land sat abandoned and over- and development of the Jimmy grown—a stark contrast to the land- Carter Library and Museum began, scaped grounds and gardens of the civic leaders proposed construction now-completed Carter Center. of a Presidential Pkwy. linking the Eventually, parkway advocates center with I-75/85 and downtown and neighborhood supporters Atlanta to the west and Ponce de reached a compromise with plans Leon Ave. to the east. Critics pointed to complete a scaled-down road out that the proposed route of the (Freedom Pkwy.) that would connect new parkway would encroach on the the Center with downtown and link historic Poncey-Highland and Inman to Ponce de Leon Ave. west of More- 83 Park neighborhoods and dramati- land Ave. The remaining land would cally alter the historical integrity of be redeveloped as Freedom Park, the Frederick Law Olmsted-designed an urban greenspace connected to community of Druid Hills. Despite Atlanta’s expanding PATH Founda- vocal opposition, by the mid-1980s tion trail system. work had begun on construction of Work began on Freedom Park in a four-lane roadway with the most 1998 and is ongoing. Park trails lead visible evidence being the demolition north, east, and south from the INTOWN

Carter Center

Carter Center. The PATH Founda- ties could afford. The community tion’s Atlanta–Stone Mountain was annexed by the City of Atlanta in Greenway links with the park’s trails 1908, and the current name was pop- from the west and continues beyond ularized following the donation of 55 its boundaries to the east. Open acres of land for a city park by Coca- every day from dawn until dusk, Cola Company owner, Asa Candler, Freedom Park is a haven for walkers, in 1922. Today, the park and its 9- runners, in-line skaters, and bicy- hole golf course is a gathering place clists throughout the year. for residents and visitors. The Can- Exiting the Freedom Park PATH dler Park neighborhood was listed as Trail east of Candler Park Golf a National Historic District in 1983. Course, the walk enters the historic In addition to small businesses neighborhood of Candler Park. along McLendon Ave., the Little Five Established in 1890 as the commu- Points commercial district served nity of Edgewood, the neighborhood as Candler Park’s business and benefited from the extension of Joel shopping center for three decades 84 Hurt’s Atlanta and Edgewood Street (1930s–60s). By the 1960s, numerous Railway Company’s trolley line from factors, including racial tensions, Inman Park to Clifton Rd. The area, suburbanization, and demolition of located between the wealthy neigh- nearby homes for a proposed Stone borhoods of Druid Hills and Inman Mountain Freeway, led to a signifi- Park, was developed as a working- cant decline in area population, class community of simple bungalow deterioration of homes, and shutter- homes that employees of the nearby ing of businesses. Following the rail yards and manufacturing facili- urban renaissance that began in Freedom Park, Candler Park, and Little Five Points nearby Inman Park (see #6) during rant and bar, owned for many years the late 1960s, Little Five Points by longtime DeKalb County Com- evolved into a unique business, shop- missioner and CEO Manuel Maloof, ping, dining and residential area has long been a gathering place for offering a mix of ’60s hippie culture, civic and business leaders, politi- arts and crafts galleries, theaters and cians, local residents, and college clubs for music and performing arts, students from Georgia Tech and eclectic shops for clothing, jewelry, Emory University. books and records, and everything 3. Euclid Ave. Park (1950s)—Euclid in-between. Today, Little Five Points Ave. and North Ave. This small City serves as a link between the revital- of Atlanta Park features tennis and ized Inman Park and Candler Park basketball courts and a recreation historic neighborhoods. field. Note the nearby sculpture “New Endings,” created for the 1996 HISTORICAL MARKERS Olympic Games by Diane Solomon 1. Augustus Hurt Plantation— Kempler and relocated to the park Carter Center parking area from downtown Atlanta. 2. Augustus Hurt House— 4. Mary Lin Elementary School Carter Center parking area (1927)—Candler Park Dr. at North 3. Stanley’s Sector—Linwood Ave. Ave. Designed in a Spanish style, at Ralph McGill Blvd. this public school has served the Candler Park and Druid Hills neigh- NOTABLE PLACES borhoods for more than three- 1. Jimmy Carter Presidential quarters of a century. Center (1985)—One Copen- 5. Philbosian House (1920s)— hill Ave. The Carter Center, an inter- 630 Page Ave. This Tudor-style nationally renowned organization brick house was once owned by fur- dedicated to fostering peace, health, niture company executive Stephen and human rights around the world, Philbosian. also houses the presidential library 6. Harbin–Dunham House and museum. During the Battle of (c. 1924) —631 Clifton Rd. A well-pro- Atlanta on July 22, 1864, Union Maj. portioned frame house designed in Gen. William T. Sherman had his the neo-Georgian style. 85 headquarters in the Augustus Pope 7. Norman House (c. 1927)— house that formerly occupied this 630 Clifton Rd. Designed in the neo- site. Hours: 9 AM–4:45 PM, Mon.– Georgian style, the house is notable Sat.; 12 PM–4:45 PM, Sun. Informa- for the large Palladian windows on tion: 404-331-0296; the first floor. www.cartercenter.org 8. Palmer House (c. 1910)— 2. Manuel’s Tavern (1955)—High- 612 Clifton Rd. This eclectic Mediter- land Ave. at North Ave. This restau- ranean-influenced stucco home INTOWN was designed by Leila Ross Wilburn. bers of the African-American Anti- An early owner was attorney Richard och East Baptist Church congrega- A. Palmer. tion after their original church 9. 552 Clifton Rd. (c. 1910)—This building burned in 1916, the sanctu- updated bungalow-style house is ary was hand-crafted of native notable for its circular front window. stone. Due to changes in the racial 10. Candler Park Commercial mix of the community, the congrega- District (1910s–30s)—McLendon Ave. tion sold the church to the Candler at Clifton Rd. This block of small Park Men’s Club in 1951. Sold to the shops is anchored by the original Phoenix Unitarian Universalist Flying Biscuit Café, which opened Church in 1977, it has been home to in 1993. the First Existentialist Church since 11. Epworth United Methodist 1980. Church (1925, 1959)—McLendon Ave. 14. Smith–Benning House (1886)— and Mell St. A fixture for more than 520 Oakdale Rd. Built by Judge a century, the congregation was Charles Smith, founder of the com- established in 1890. Services were munity of Edgewood, the Victorian held at the Mason Academy building home was later owned by Augustus at McLendon and Mason Aves. until Harrison Benning, a wealthy sea cap- completion of the first sanctuary in tain who was a principal investor in 1892. The building was destroyed by the English-American Building, a lightning-related fire in 1897 and a Atlanta’s first skyscraper, which was new structure soon replaced it. As completed in 1897. NR the congregation expanded, plans 15. 1234 McLendon Ave. were developed for a new Educa- (c. 1910s) —This cozy bungalow with tional Building (1945) and the new a large portico supported by a two sanctuary (1959). pairs of matched columns was 12. Candler Park (1932)—Candler designed by Leila Ross Wilburn. Park Dr. at McLendon Ave. Created 16. Little Five Points (1910s)— from land donated in 1922 by Coca- Moreland Ave. at Euclid Ave. Consid- Cola Company founder Asa Candler, ered Atlanta’s Bohemian com munity, the park features playscapes, recre- this compact commercial district is 86 ation areas, a swimming pool, and filled with a mix of eclectic shops, Atlanta’s oldest public golf course. restaurants, and theaters. The 9-hole layout is popular with 17. Chapman House (1905)— golfers of all abilities. The Tudor-style 1062 Euclid Ave. Built for George W. clubhouse is located across the street Chapman, superintendent for Swift from Mary Lin Elementary School. Fertilizer Works, this was one of 13. Old Stone Church (1918)— architect Willis F. Denny’s final proj- 470 Candler Park Dr. Built by mem- ects before his untimely death at

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GPS: N 33. 46. 027 W 84. 21. 296 INTOWN 32 years of age. The Victorian home OTHER WALKS IN THE AREA features notable ornamentation #6 Historic Oakland Cemetery (including Denny’s name on the #8 Inman Park brick chimney). #15 Virginia-Highland & 18. Bass Lofts (1920s)—1080 Euclid Morningside Ave. Originally constructed as Bass #16 Druid Hills High School, the complex—including #17 Fernbank Forest auditorium and gymnasium—was #18 Emory University converted to apartments by devel- #39 Historic Decatur oper Robert Silverman in 1998. The lofts have won numerous design and preservation awards. NR

SPECIAL FEATURES AND EVENTS u Inman Park Festival—April u The Carter Center sponsors public education programs, workshops, art exhibitions, and other events throughout the year.

NEARBY ATTRACTIONS u Fernbank Museum of Natural History. Among the most comprehensive natural history museums in the Southeast, Fernbank’s signature exhibits include “A Walk Through Time in Georgia” and “Giants of the Mesozoic.” The museum is also home to the Rankin Smith IMAX Theater. 767 Clifton Rd. Information: 404-929-6300; www.fernbankmuseum. org 88 u Fernbank Science Center. Part of the DeKalb County School System, the center features museum and science exhibits, classrooms and laboratories, a planetarium and an astronomical observatory. 156 Heaton Park Dr. Information: 678-874-7102; http://fsc.fernbank.edu INTOWN C H A P T E R 1 0

the Peachtree Ridge (along the spine Midtown of Peachtree Rd.), which descends in an easterly direction toward Monroe Dr. The portions of the walk following north-south directions are mostly level, while the west-east routes have moderate to steep ascents and descents. Most streets are lined with old sidewalks of brick or octagonal concrete pavers, and some are in fair to poor condition.

DRIVING DIRECTIONS From downtown, travel north on Piedmont Ave. Turn east on 5th St. and travel 2 blocks to Argonne Ave. LOCATION The Midtown area featured in this Parking chapter is located about 2 miles north On-street parking is permitted on of downtown. The neighborhood is most streets, with the exception of bordered on the south by Ponce de busy Piedmont Ave. Leon Ave., on the north by 10th St., on the east by Monroe Dr., and on PUBLIC TRANSPORTATION the west by Piedmont Ave. The walk The area is served by MARTA’s begins in the small commercial dis- Midtown rail station located trict at Argonne Ave. and 6th St. on 10th St. west of Peachtree St. GPS: N33.46.562/W84.22.659 MARTA: 404-848-5000; www. itsmarta.com 89 TRAIL DISTANCE The meandering route through BACKGROUND the neighborhood is about Much of what we call Midtown was 3.1 miles. mostly open ﬁelds, farmlands, and forest until the late 1800s. In 1862, TERRAIN the area was the site of the hanging Much of the neighborhood of James J. Andrews, leader of the rests on the gentle slopes of Union raiders who stole the engine INTOWN

Midtown street scene

General at Big Shanty (Kennesaw), In the 1850s, Richard Peters pur- beginning the famous “Great Loco- chased 400 acres south of these motive Chase.” landholdings. Peters had arrived in At one time most of the land Marthasville in the 1840s and was comprising present-day Midtown instrumental in changing the town’s was owned by three farming families, name to Atlanta in 1846. A successful the Walkers, Medlocks, and Todds. blockade runner during the Civil War, Samuel Walker moved to the area in Peters became a leader in the city’s the 1820s and built a grist mill on postwar recovery. He earned a large Clear Creek near Park Dr. John Med- fortune rebuilding the state’s railroad lock arrived in 1840, building a farm- system and was a strong supporter of house on 200 acres near the current Henry Grady’s proposals for a more Grace Methodist Church on Ponce industrialized “New South.” In 1887, de Leon Ave. Richard Todd, brother- he donated four acres of land on in-law to Atlanta’s pioneer settler North Ave. as the site for a new Hardy Ivy, owned land near Ponce industrial school that opened a year de Leon Springs that would become later as the Georgia School of Tech- a resort in the late 19th century nology (Georgia Tech). 90 resort near the old Sears Roebuck In 1883, Richard Peters’ son, building (formerly City Hall East). Edward, constructed a large Queen These farms and surrounding lands Anne–style home at 179 Ponce de were severely damaged during the Leon Ave. Following the elder Peters’ fighting around Atlanta in 1864. death in 1889, his son formed the Samuel Walker’s son, Benjamin, Peters Land Company, with plans to built a new stone farmhouse in 1868 develop much of his estate as new that later became the home of the residential properties. During this Piedmont Driving Club. same time period, other developers, Midtown including Edwin Ansley and S. B. Tur- post–World War II flight to the sub- man, purchased land parcels with urbs than Midtown. By the 1960s, similar plans to create communities many fine old homes had been con- along the path of Atlanta’s north- verted to boarding houses or carved ward development. up into apartments; others were Construction of new homes along abandoned, boarded up, vandalized, the western edge of what was then or even destroyed. During the latter called “North Atlanta” began in the part of the decade, the area around 1890s, before a national depression 10th St. gained notoriety as the home in 1893 brought housing starts to a of Atlanta’s hippie community, which standstill for nearly a decade. By the dominated Piedmont Park and the early 20th century through the 1920s, surrounding commercial districts. much of present Midtown was plat- Many young people who flocked to ted with a grid pattern of streets and Atlanta to be part of the scene lived lanes. The styles of homes varied over in deteriorating older homes and time from large Queen-Anne Victori- apartment buildings throughout ans to more modest Craftsman-style Midtown. bungalows, creating the rich archi- By the 1970s, as the hippie era tectural legacy we enjoy today. faded, some '60s denizens stayed The area narrowly avoided and began repairing and restoring destruction during the Great Atlanta old houses. Like their neighbors in Fire of May 1917. The fire began on Inman Park, Grant Park, and Vir- Decatur St. and spread northward, ginia-Highland, these urban pioneers destroying 2,000 structures and saw quality and value in the older reaching as far as Vedado Way and structures and enjoyed the sense of Greenwood Ave. before firefighters community and convenience to were able to finally bring it under shops and services not often found control. In the conflagration’s after- in the suburbs. math, nearly 10,000 people were left Today, Midtown’s commercial homeless, which caused an immedi- district rivals downtown’s for its ate demand for Midtown’s new high-rise splendor. Residents enjoy apartment buildings. These dwell - a vibrant city life with convenient ings, many in a country-garden style, access to restored Piedmont Park, 91 were also popular during the Depres- Woodruff Arts Center, MARTA rail, sion years when home prices were and eclectic shops and restaurants. beyond the reach of many residents. Several notable apartment buildings HISTORICAL MARKERS designed by premier architects There are none on the walk remain today. route, but one is nearby: Few areas of Atlanta suffered a 1. James J. Andrews— more dramatic decline from the Juniper at Third St. INTOWN NOTABLE PLACES rise, the house was designed in an 1. Argonne Commercial eclectic style by W. T. Downing for District (c. 1920s)—Argonne Atlanta physician, Dr. W. Perrin Ave. between 5th and 6th Sts. The Nicolson. It is now home to the retail shops were built to serve the Shellmont Inn, a bed and breakfast. needs of nearby residents. 5. De Soto Apartments 2. The Vedado (c. 1906)—Vedado (c. 1900s)—7th St. between Piedmont Way. Noted for its curvilinear street Ave. and Juniper St. This elegant early pattern, a dramatic departure from 20th-century apartment building was the grid pattern found throughout designed by W. T. Downing. Midtown, this street was designed by 6. John F. Dickinson House the neighborhood’s developer, (1906)—875 Piedmont Ave. This brick Edwin Ansley. This street layout house is noted for its asymmetrical would be the centerpiece of Ansley’s rounded porches and large, carved larger project, nearby Ansley Park. wood front door. 3. Henry Grady High School 7. Fitzhugh Knox House (1910)— (1923, expansions 1940s–60s)— 893 Piedmont Ave. Designed by Mid- Charles Allen Dr. and 10th St. This town developer Knox for his own structure was built to house Boys’ residence, this structure is reminis- High School and Tech High School cent of an antebellum mansion. The after their downtown building large house has been adapted for burned. These two institutions edu- use as offices. NR cated many of Atlanta’s prominent 8. Dr. Thomas Hinman House civic and business leaders of the (c. 1896)—923 Piedmont Ave. This 1930s–60s. The original school build- Shingle-style house was once home ing and the 1940s addition were to Canadian-born Thomas Hinman. designed by Philip Shutze. The A graduate of the Southern Dental school was renamed in honor of College in 1891, he returned the fol- journalist Henry Grady in 1947, the lowing year as a member of the same year that the on-campus sta- faculty. In 1911 he organized an edu- dium, the largest high school sta- cational conference for dental pro- dium in the city, was completed. It fessionals that has become one of 92 has undergone several expansions the most prestigious programs of its and hosted the city’s first NFL exhi- kind in the world. Sponsored by the bition game—an August 1962 contest Hinman Dental Society, the Hinman between the Baltimore Colts and meeting has been held annually for a the Pittsburgh Steelers. It was also century. The home is now the Stone- used as a training facility during the hurst Place Bed & Breakfast Inn. The 1996 Olympics. inn has received several awards for 4. Nicolson House (1892)— its eco-friendly restoration. 821 Piedmont Ave. Built on a small Midtown

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A V GPS: W 33. 46. 562 E N N 84. 22. 569 E INTOWN 9. 10th St. Commercial District 12. H. C. Worthen House (1920s–2000s)—10th St. at Piedmont (c. 1910s) —826 Penn Ave. This eclec- Ave. Originally a small commercial tic-style bungalow with a large porch district supporting the surrounding was designed by Leila Ross Wilburn. homes and apartments, the area has 13. Wilbur Kurtz House undergone a renaissance with the (c. 1910s) —907 Penn Ave. Born in popularity of adjacent Piedmont Oakland, Illinois, and trained as an Park and Midtown residential neigh- illustrator and engraver, Kurtz came borhoods. The area supports an to Atlanta in 1903 to research the eclectic mix of shops and restaurants Civil War–era Andrews Raid (the and is the epicenter of the largest Great Locomotive Chase). He inter- Lesbian-Gay-Bisexual-Transgender viewed engineer William Fuller and (LGBT) community in the country. went on to marry Fuller’s daughter, 10. Harris-McGill House Annie Laurie. The couple made their (c. 1900s)— 835 Myrtle St. This could home in Midtown where Kurtz be dubbed the “Pulitzer Prize worked on his drawings, paintings, House,” as two of its residents and murals—most featuring Atlanta earned this coveted literary prize. and Georgia historical subjects. He The ﬁrst was Julian Harris, son of painted murals for both the 1933 writer Joel Chandler Harris. Joel went Chicago and 1939 New York World’s on to own, with his wife Julia, the Fairs, and served as a technical advi- Columbus (Ga.) Enquirer-Sun newspa- sor for the ﬁlms Gone With the Wind per. The paper received the 1926 (1939), Song of the South (1945), and Pulitzer for its critical stories on the The Great Locomotive Chase (1955). He Ku Klux Klan. The house was later also carried out repairs to the owned by Ralph McGill, who came Atlanta Cyclorama painting and to work as a reporter for the Atlanta helped create the three-dimensional Constitution and rose to become edi- diorama in front of the painting the tor. Often called “the conscience of the 1930s. In the 1950s, he wrote text the South,” he earned a Pulitzer Prize for many of the Civil War historical in 1959 for his editorials in support of markers around Atlanta and chaired desegregation. the Georgia Civil War Centennial 94 11. Alfredo Barili House (c. 1909)— Commission. 743 Myrtle St. An Italian-born musi- 14. Mary Mac’s Tea Room (1945)— cian, Barili came to Atlanta in 1877 to 224 Ponce de Leon Ave. This Atlanta teach at the Atlanta Female Academy landmark restaurant has been serv- and Washington Seminary before ing Southern home cooking for establishing his own music school. almost 70 years. His son, Alfredo Barili, Jr. designed 15. St. Paul’s Presbyterian Church this home where his father lived from (1916)—163 Ponce de Leon Ave. 1909 until his death in 1935. Designed in the Gothic Revival style Midtown by Paul Hopson, the structure origi- u Midtown Tour of Homes—April nally served the congregation of the u Georgia Shakespeare Theater’s Ponce de Leon Methodist Episcopal “Shake at the Lake”—May Church. In 1944, it became home to u Kool Atlanta Jazz Festival—May Faith Memorial Church. The congre- u Peachtree Road Race—July 4th gation relocated in 1970 and the u Midtown Arts Festival— building was sold in 1977 for use as September The Abbey restaurant, which closed u Atlanta Preservation Center in 2005. The building returned to its Walking Tours—March–November original use when it was acquired as u Saturday Green Market at a Presbyterian congregation in 2006. Piedmont Park—May–December 16. Ivy Hall (1885)—179 Ponce de u Athletic events at Grady Leon Ave. Designed in the Queen Stadium—Fall through Spring Anne style by Gottfried Norrman, the house was built by Richard NEARBY ATTRACTIONS Peters for his son, Edward. Consid- u Atlanta Botanical Garden ered one of the most elegant estates u Federal Reserve Bank in late-19th-century Atlanta, the Monetary Museum house was in later years a restaurant u High Museum called The Mansion. After the u Margaret Mitchell House restaurant closed, the property fell Museum into disrepair and was threatened u Memorial Arts Center with demolition. In 2007, the home u Piedmont Park underwent restoration by the Savan- nah College of Art and Design OTHER TRAILS IN THE AREA (SCAD) for part of its Atlanta cam- #11 Peachtree Promenade pus; the surrounding property has #12 Georgia Tech been developed as luxury condo- #13 Piedmont Park & Atlanta miniums. Ivy Hall is open for tours. Botanical Garden Information: 404-253-3324; #14 Ansley Park www.artofrestoration.org/ivyhall #15 Virginia-Highland & 17. Chatham Court Apartments Morningside (c. 1920s)—690 Piedmont Ave. This 95 three-story brick complex was designed by Leila Ross Wilburn.

SPECIAL FEATURES AND EVENTS u Atlanta Jugglers Association Groundhog Day Festival—March u Atlanta Dogwood Festival— April INTOWN C H A P T E R 1 1

descent runs from the northern and Peachtree southern boundaries of the trail to Promenade the area around 10th St. DRIVING DIRECTIONS Traveling south on I-75/85 take North Ave. (exit 249C), then east to West Peachtree St.; or traveling north on I-75/85 take Linden Ave. (exit 249D) to West Peachtree St.

Parking Numerous commercial parking facilities offer public parking at locations along the walk. Limited metered parking is available on Peachtree, LOCATION West Peachtree, and side streets About 1 mile north of downtown at along the route. the intersection of West Peachtree St. and North Ave. The walk begins PUBLIC TRANSPORTATION at the Midtown MARTA rail station Regular MARTA bus service and ends at the Arts Center MARTA operates along Peachtree rail station. St. (#110 Peachtree St.). The area GPS: N33.46.864/W84.23.210 is served by the North Ave., Mid- town, and Arts Center rail stations. TRAIL DISTANCE MARTA: 404-848-5000; www. This is a linear walk about itsmarta.com 96 4 miles long. BACKGROUND TERRAIN To many people, Peachtree St. is Peachtree St. follows a Atlanta. Songs and stories have been ridgeline for most of its written about it, prominent people course, and West Peachtree St. have lived on it, and millions of visi- closely parallels Peachtree at a tors have followed its meandering slightly lower elevation. A gradual course through the heart of the city to the northern suburbs. Just beyond Peachtree Promenade the central business district, Peach - 20th century, the fine homes slowly tree and its sister street, West Peach - gave way to commercial establish- tree, follow a parallel course north- ments. In the late 1960s the area fell ward. The roughly 4-mile stretch into decline and the blocks along featured in this walk contains ele- Peachtree and 10th Sts. constituted ments of both old and new Atlanta. the largest hippie district in the Anchored on the south by Emory South—complete with coffeehouses, University Hospital Midtown (for- head shops, and a weekly under- merly Crawford Long Hospital) and ground newspaper called The Great the Fox Theatre Historic District and Speckled Bird. on the north by Pershing Point Park, The Midtown area began a ren- this walk travels through the heart of aissance with construction of Colony the Midtown business district, which Square in the mid-1970s. Today, the is continuing a dramatic revitaliza- business district has changed tion. Here, Victorian-era and early markedly. Vast office buildings such 20th-century homes provide a as Atlantic Center, Campanile, glimpse of the Peachtree St. that was Promenade One and Two Towers, once Atlanta’s premier residential the Four Seasons Hotel, 999 and 1180 address. Elegant hotels for discrimi- Peachtree, and the strikingly modern nating guests who sought escape Metropolis condominium complex from the bustle and noise of down- have all joined Colony Square to town and towering skyscrapers—a make Midtown an employment and relatively recent phenomenon that residential center as well as an archi- are redefining Atlanta’s skyline—con- tectural delight. The renovation of tribute to the architectural diversity. homes and apartments in nearby A portion of this area bordering Ansley Park (see #14) and through- 10th St., Peachtree St., and Crescent out Midtown continues. The Robert Ave. earned the curious nickname W. Woodruff Arts Center and High “Tight Squeeze” during the years Museum of Art are the heart of the after the Civil War. Atlanta historians city’s cultural life. attribute the name to two factors. First, the road was narrow at that HISTORICAL MARKERS time, making wagon travel difficult. 1. Academy of Medicine—in 97 Second, it was known as a haven for front of building at 875 W. thieves, bandits, and ne’er-do-wells, Peachtree St. making a successful trip through the 2. Georgian Terrace Hotel—in area after dark a “tight squeeze.” front of hotel at Peachtree St. and As Atlanta grew, the character of Ponce de Leon Ave. Peachtree St. changed. Commercial 3. Lutheran Church of the growth expanded farther north and, Redeemer—in front of church at 731 beginning in the early part of the Peachtree St. INTOWN 4. Atlanta Women’s Club— 3. Technology Square (2003)— 1150 Peachtree St. West Peachtree and Spring Sts. at 5th 5. Margaret Mitchell—1401 Peach - St. An excellent example of urban tree St. redevelopment, this multiuse complex 6. Pershing Monument and includes the Georgia Tech School of Fulton County Soldiers Memorial— Business, the laboratories and offices in small park at the intersection of of the Advanced Technology Develop- Peachtree and W. Peachtree Sts. ment Center (ATDC), the Georgia 7. Outer Defense Line, July 18, Tech Hotel and Conference Center, 1864—small stone marker in front of the campus bookstore, and a variety Peachtree Christian Church, 1580 of restaurants and shops. The 5th St. Peachtree St. Bridge over I-75/85 was widened to 8. St. Luke’s Episcopal Church incorporate garden spaces linking the (1864–1964)—south front of church, complex to the Georgia Tech campus. 435 Peachtree St. Information: www.dlpe.gatech.edu/ technology-square NOTABLE PLACES 4. AT&T Building (1982)—675 W. 1. The Academy of Medicine Peachtree St. This 50-story granite (1941)—875 W. Peachtree St. tower, designed in the International Designed in the Neoclassical Revival style by Skidmore, Owings, and style by the firm of Hentz, Adler and Merrill, anchors Midtown’s southern Shutze, the building served for many border. A telephone museum con- years as headquarters of the Medical taining antique equipment is located Association of Atlanta. In 2009, the in the plaza level above the build- building was acquired by Georgia ing's retail mall. Museum hours: Tech for use as a special events facil- 11 AM–1 PM, Mon.–Fri. ity. Of particular interest in the 5. All Saints Episcopal Church rotunda is a chandelier from the film (1906)—634 W. Peachtree St. A Bruce Gone With the Wind. NR and Morgan design, it is modeled 2. Biltmore Hotel (1924)—817 W. after English country churches. Note Peachtree St. Called Atlanta’s “su - the seven Tiffany stained-glass win- preme hotel,” it was the largest in dows and the copper steeple. The 98 the city when it was built. It was church sits on land donated by the designed in the neo-Georgian style Richard Peters family, early residen- and commissioned by William Can- tial developers of the area. dler and Leonard Shultze. Vacant for 6. Fire Station #11 (1907)— many years, portions of the building 30 North Ave. Designed in Italian are now used as special event facili- Renaissance style by the firm of ties. The adjacent Biltmore Apart- Morgan and Dillon, the two-story ments have been renovated as luxury structure has white porcelain-brick condominiums. exterior facings. When built, this sta- Peachtree Promenade

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Midtown skyline

tion blended with the prestigious Hospital) (1911)—550 Peachtree St. residential neighborhood it served. Skeptics were certain that this hospi- The station closed in 1998 and has tal—built by Drs. Edward Campbell been adapted for use as a restau- Davis and Luther C. Fisher as a small rant. NR private hospital in 1911—would fail 7. Bank of America Tower (1992)— because it was too far from town! North Ave. between Peachtree and The original Beaux Arts buildings W. Peachtree Sts. Dubbed Atlanta’s on Linden Ave. are listed on the “Eiffel Tower” for its unusual open- National Register of Historic Places. framed canopy, this stone and glass The old hospital lobby contains a skyscraper is the city’s tallest. Its small museum exhibiting artifacts design is the work of architects Kevin attributed to Dr. Long, the first Roche, John Dinkeloo and Associates. physician to use ether anesthesia 8. Baltimore Block (1886)— (1842). An innovative 20-story addi- 100 Baltimore Pl. One of Atlanta’s earli- tion, featuring a 14-story medical est apartment buildings, it was built office tower above an expanded in the row-house style more com- diagnostic and treatment center, mon in larger cities. The original opened just south of the original buildings have undergone restora- hospital in 2002. Notable features of tion as offices with new spaces cre- the new complex are the landscaped ated for apartments. NR gardens and the striking 3-story J. 9. Emory University Hospital Mack and Nita Robinson Conserva- Midtown (formerly Crawford Long tory with live trees and greenery. Just Peachtree Promenade south of the modern tower is the Gable, Carole Lombard, and Vivien W. W. Orr Building. Erected in 1930, Leigh stayed here during their visit the Art Deco–style structure was the for the premiere of Gone With the first commercial building in the city Wind in 1939. After being closed for designed for doctors and dentists. more than a decade, the building 10. Rufus M. Rose House (1900)— has been renovated and expanded as 537 Peachtree St. Built for Rufus luxury apartments, hotel, and retail Rose, founder of Four Roses Distill- space. NR ery, the red brick structure is an 14. The Fox Theatre (1929)— example of the Aesthetic movement 660 Peachtree St. A classic movie of the late Victorian era. Once the palace from the heyday of Holly- temporary headquarters of the wood, “the fabulous Fox” was styled Atlanta Preservation Center, the after a Moorish palace with Egyptian house is now vacant. touches by designers at the firm of 11. North Avenue Presbyterian Marye, Alger, and Vinour. Nearly lost Church (1901, expansions)—607 to developers in the early 1970s, the Peach tree St. The early 20th-century Fox sits on land that once marked granite structure was designed in the the outer defensive line during the Roman esque Revival style by the firm Union siege of Atlanta in 1864. The of Bruce and Morgan. NR Atlanta Preservation Center offers 12. The Ponce de Leon Apartments Theatre District tours at 10 AM, (1912)—75 Ponce de Leon Ave. The first Mon., Wed., Thurs.; and at 10 and large high-rise apartment building in 11 AM, Sat. Information: tours—404- Atlanta, it was designed with features 688-3353; theatrical events—404-881- of the Italianate style by William L. 2100; www.foxtheatre.org NL Stoddart. “The Ponce” and the nearby 15. Cox-Carlton Hotel Building Georgian Terrace Hotel marked an (1925)—683 Peachtree St. Built as the evolutionary step in the development Carlton Bachelor Hotel, the Renais- of Peachtree St. from residential to sance-style building, designed by multipurpose use. NR Pringle and Smith, has been reno- 13. The Georgian Terrace Hotel vated and reopened as a Klimpton (1911)—695 Peachtree St. Designed Hotel. by William L. Stoddart in the Beaux 16. Lutheran Church of the 101 Arts style, this 10-story brick struc- Redeemer (1952)—731 Peachtree St. ture with marble balustrade was a Designed in a Deco-Gothic style significant example of the city’s by Philadelphia architect Harold northward growth. For many years, Wagoner, the church is home to the the hotel was considered the most oldest and largest Lutheran congre- luxurious in the city, and celebrities gation in Atlanta. In addition to such as Enrico Caruso and Pres. three Sunday services, the church Calvin Coolidge slept here. Clark hosts services by the German Church INTOWN

Margaret Mitchell house

of Atlanta each Sunday at 11 AM in level, the complex houses shops the chapel. and restaurants. 17. St. Mark’s United Methodist 20. Palmer House Apartments Church (1903)—781 Peachtree St. This (1912)—81 Peachtree Pl. Designed by granite church was designed by the firm of Hentz and Reid with later Willis F. Denny in a modified Gothic detailing by Philip T. Shutze, these style. Of particular note are the Victorian-style buildings with Flem- carved triple-arched doors. NR ish bond brick include the attached 18. Peachtree Manor (1922)— Phelan Apartments on Peachtree 826 Peachtree St. Built as the 690 St. NR Apartments, the building designed 21. Margaret Mitchell House by Philip T. Shutze is noted for its Museum (1914)—990 Peachtree St. arched ornamental entranceway Built as a single-family residence, the with a pediment and central pavil- house was subdivided into the Wind- 102 ion. Converted to a hotel in the sor House Apartments in 1920. John 1940s, it is now part of the Corner- and Margaret Mitchell Marsh lived stone Village residential complex. here during the years she wrote Gone 19. Metropolis (2002)—933 Peach - With the Wind. She called it “The tree St. Twin glass and steel towers Dump.” While undergoing restora- connected by a 7th-floor terrace fea- tion, the building suffered two turing landscaped gardens, a fitness devastating fires. Despite these set- center, and a pool highlight this backs, the museum, with its exten- condominium community. At street sive collection of memorabilia, Peachtree Promenade including Mitchell’s recreated apart- the renaissance of Midtown. ment, typewriter, and 1937 Pulitzer 25. 1180 Peachtree Building Prize, opened in May 1997. The house (2006)—1180 Peachtree St. at 14th St. is managed by the Atlanta History Locally known as “Symphony Tower” Center. Hours: 10 AM–5:30 PM, for its proximity to a planned new Mon.–Sat.; 12–5:30 PM, Sun. home for the Atlanta Symphony that Information: 404-249-7015; has not yet been built, this 41-story www.margaretmitchellhouse.com glass tower topped by two soaring 22. Federal Reserve Bank fins was designed by the Connecticut Building (2001)—1000 Peachtree St. firm of Pickard Chilton. The struc- This massive classic-style marble ture was the world’s first pre-certi- building was designed to resemble fied LEED-CS building and has the Federal Reserve Building in garnered numerous awards, includ- Washington, D.C. Tours are avail- ing the Building of the Decade able by appointment. The bank’s vis- Award (1996–2006), given by the itor center and monetary museum Atlanta chapter of the American are open 9 AM–4 PM, Mon.–Fri. Institute of Architects. Information: 404-498-8500; 26. Four Seasons Hotel (1992)— www.frbatlanta.org 75 14th St. Built by Swedish developer 23. Atlanta Women’s Club G. L. Gullstedt, the tower’s style is (1898)—1150 Peachtree St. One of reminiscent of New York’s Empire few residential structures remaining State and Chrysler Buildings. It along Peachtree St., this home was houses a hotel and luxury apart- designed by Walter T. Downing for ments. Information: 404-881-9898; Mr. and Mrs. William Wimbish in a www.fourseasons.com/atlanta Country French style reminiscent of 27. Promenade One (1981) and Loire River Valley châteaus. It was Two (1990)—Peachtree St. at 15th St. acquired by the Atlanta Women’s The mid-rise concrete and glass Club in the 1920s. In the late 1980s, a International-style building (One) portion of the building was remod- stands in contrast to the multi- eled as a restaurant and nightclub. pointed glass tower (Two). Both are Badly damaged by a 1990 fire, it was the design work of Thompson, Ven- restored and is now used as a special tulett, Stainback and Associates. The 103 events facility. complex is the regional headquarters 24. Colony Square Complex for AT&T. (1969, 1975)—Peachtree St. at 14th St. 28. “The Castle” (1910)—87 15th This multipurpose commercial, resi- St. Victorian ornamentation meets dential, and hotel complex designed medieval-fortress sensibilities. This by Jova/Daniels/Busby was the first house was built by agricultural facility of its type in Atlanta. Its con- equipment dealer Ferdinand McMil- struction marked the beginning of lan, who dubbed it “Fort Peace.” The INTOWN

High Museum

house has been restored by AT&T as Alliance Theatre (which includes the part of its promenade complex. nearby 14th Street Playhouse), the 29. Atlantic Center (1987)— Alliance Children’s Theatre, and the W. Peachtree St. at 14th St. Known former Atlanta College of Art (now locally as “the IBM Building,” this Savannah College of Art and Design pink marble postmodern building is Atlanta). The center was built with the work of the firm of Philip John- funds raised in memory of more son and John Burgee. than 100 Atlanta art patrons killed in 30. First Church of Christ Scien- a plane crash in Paris, France, in tist (1914)—Peachtree St. and 15th St. 1962. On the lawn between the Cen- Designed by Edward E. Dougherty ter and the High Museum is The 104 and Arthur N. Robinson in the Clas- Shade, a sculpture by Auguste Rodin sical Greek Revival style, this sand- that was a memorial gift from the stone brick church is noted for its French government. Hours: The Col- massive Corinthian columns and iri- lege galleries are open 9 AM–5 PM descent bronze dome. daily. Recent additions to the Arts 31. The Robert W. Woodruff Arts Center include a residence for stu- Center (1968)—1280 Peachtree St. dents and a sculpture building. Event This massive rectangular structure is and exhibition information: 404-733- home to the Atlanta Symphony, the 4200; www.woodruffcenter.org Peachtree Promenade 32. High Museum of Art (1983)— 35. Mitchell King House (1912)— 1280 Peachtree St. An acclaimed, 1382 Peachtree St. With features remi- unusual structure designed in an Art niscent of the Tudor Revival style, this Moderne style by Richard Meier, the sandstone brick house is one of few museum houses an excellent perma- remaining houses along this section nent collection and hosts significant of Peachtree St. The building served traveling exhibits. A whimsical mov- for many years as the offices of an ing sculpture, Three Up and Three architectural firm but is now vacant. Down by Alexander Calder, graces 36. Pershing Point Park (1920)— the lawn. There is a nominal admis- intersection of Peachtree and W. sion fee, and annual memberships Peachtree Sts. This small park is a are available. The three-building memorial to the citizens of Fulton addition, designed by Renzo Piano, County who fought and died in has been described as a “village World War I. The park was dedi- for the arts.” Hours: 10 AM–5 PM, cated in 1920 by Field Marshall Ferdi- Tues.–Sat.; 12 PM–5 PM, Sun. Infor- nand Foch, commander of Allied mation: 404-733-4900; www.high.org Forces during the war. 33. First Presbyterian Church 37. World Athletes Monument (1919)—1328 Peachtree St. Serving a (1996)—north side of intersection congregation established in 1848, the of Peachtree and W. Peachtree Sts. original church was located on Mari- An Olympic gift to the city from the etta St. The present sandstone build- Prince of Wales Architecture Foun- ing was designed in the Gothic style dation, it is the only foundation- by Walter T. Downing. The Louis sponsored structure outside the Tiffany–designed stained-glass win- United Kingdom. The monument dows are a notable feature. The first was the focal point of Atlantans’ religious services in the South broad- expressions of sympathy following cast by radio were conducted here in the 1997 death of Princess Diana. 1922 and carried by WSB Radio. 38. Rhodes Memorial Hall 34. Reid House Apartments (1924) (1903)—1516 Peachtree St. Designed by —1325 Peachtree St. Designed in the Willis Denny for furniture magnate Georgian-Eclectic style by Philip T. Amos G. Rhodes, the house is con- Shutze, this 9-story building of luxury structed of local quarried stone and 105 accommodations was intended to was built to resemble a Victorian complement the adjacent Ansley Romanesque castle. It is now owned Park neighborhood. Originally by the State Department of Archives known as the Garrison Apartments, and History and is leased to the the building was renovated and con- Georgia Trust for Historic Preserva- verted to condominiums in 1974, tion for use as its headquarters. when it was named for Neel Reid, Open to the public. Hours: 11 AM–4 who was once Shutze’s partner. PM, Tues.–Fri.; 10 AM–2 PM, Sat. INTOWN Information: 404-885-7800; peteers as well as classes for budding www.georgiatrust.org NR performers. It is also U.S. headquar- 39. WSB Studios (1950s)—1601 W. ters for Union de la Marionette Peachtree St. In 1999, this modern (UNIMA), the oldest theater organi- radio and television studio complex zation in the world. Information: replaced the original antebellum- 404-873-3089; www.puppet.org style structure known for years as 44. Atlantic Station (2005)— “White Columns on Peachtree.” Stu- 17th St. at I-75/85. Located on the site dio tours are offered by appointment of a steel mill that closed in 1998, at 9:30 AM and 10:30 AM, Tues. and 138-acre Atlantic Station is one of the Thurs. Information: 404-897-7369; largest brownfield reclamation and www.wsbtv.com restoration projects ever completed. 40. The Temple (1920)—1589 Peach - The “city within a city” features tree St. Established in 1867, this temple retail stores, restaurants, theaters, is home to Atlanta’s largest Jewish commercial offices, and a variety of congregation. The building is in the residential facilities from loft apart - American neo-Georgian style, and is ments to single-family dwellings, the work of the firm of Hentz, Reid, with open common spaces and Adler and Shutze. NR the feel of a close-knit, pedestrian- 41. Peachtree Christian Church focused community. Information: (1925)—1580 Peachtree St. This ornate www.atlanticstation.com red brick and masonry structure, 45. The Granada Hotel (1924)— designed by Paul Hopson, was pat- 1302 W. Peachtree St. Featuring the terned after Britain’s Melrose Abbey, classical details of the Spanish destroyed during World War II. Revival style, the complex has been 42. William Breman Jewish remodeled as a luxury hotel. Heritage Museum (1996)—The Selig 46. Edward C. Peters House Center, 1440 Spring St. Filled with (1885)—179 Ponce de Leon Ave. exhibits tracing the history and cul- Designed by Gottfried Norrman for ture of Atlanta’s Jewish community, the son of Richard Peters, an early the museum is the largest of its type residential developer, the house is a in the Southeast. The Holocaust classic example of Victorian architec- 106 exhibit is a sadly powerful feature. ture. After being vacant for several Hours: 10 AM–5 PM, Mon.–Thurs.; years, the house was restored by 10 AM–3 PM, Fri.; 1 PM–5 PM, Sun. Savannah College of Art and Design Information: 404-870-7684; and now serves as the SCAD Writing www.atlantajewishmuseum.org Center and a special events facility. 43. Center for Puppetry Arts— Information: 404-253-3206 NR 1404 Spring St. Housed in a 1920s-era school building, the Center sponsors performances by world-class pup- Peachtree Promenade SPECIAL FEATURES AND EVENTS #13 Piedmont Park & Atlanta u The Fox Theatre is the site of Botanical Garden numerous musical and theatrical #14 Ansley Park performances throughout the year. #15 Virginia-Highland & The Fox’s Egyptian Ballroom and Morningside other areas are available for private #19 Tanyard Creek Park & parties. Information: 404-881-2100 Brookwood Hills u Fox Theatre Historic District guided walking tours are conducted by the Atlanta Preservation Center at 10 AM, Mon., Wed., and Thurs.; and 10 AM and 11 AM, Sat. Information: 404-876-2040; www.preserveatlanta.org u The Robert W. Woodruff Arts Center and High Museum of Art offer a wide variety of classical and contemporary performing arts and exhibits throughout the year. Infor- mation: 404-733-4200.

NEARBY ATTRACTIONS u Atlanta Botanical Garden u Boisefeuillet Jones Atlanta Civic Center—theatrical and musical performance facility. 395 Piedmont Ave. Information: 404-523-6275; www.atlantaciviccenter.com u Georgia Tech Campus u Museum of Design Atlanta (MODA)—a Smithsonian-afﬁliated museum, featuring exhibits from around the world. Hours: 11 AM– 5 PM, Tues.–Sat. Information: 404- 107 979-6455; www.museumofdesign.org u Piedmont Park—tennis courts, ball ﬁelds, swimming pool

OTHER WALKS IN THE AREA #1 Atlanta Heritage Trails #10 Midtown #12 Georgia Tech INTOWN C H A P T E R 1 2

DRIVING DIRECTIONS Georgia Travel I-75/85 south to North Ave. (exit 249C); or travel I-75/85 Tech north to Linden Ave. (exit 249D) to West Peachtree St., then west on North Ave.

Parking During school business hours (7 AM–5 PM, Mon.–Fri.), visitor parking is available in the pay lot adjacent to the Fred B. Wenn Stu- dent Center on Ferst Dr. On evenings and weekends, ample street and surface lot parking is available. The campus transportation system’s Stinger buses also serve all parts of LOCATION the campus and connect with About 1 mile northwest of down- MARTA rail stations. town. The walk begins at the Admin- istration Building (Tech Tower). PUBLIC TRANSPORTATION GPS: N33.46.346/W84.23.661 From the North Ave. MARTA rail station walk west about .5 TRAIL DISTANCE miles to the Tech Tower. MARTA: The trail outlined is about 404-848-5000; www.itsmarta.com 4.3 miles. Numerous footpaths crisscross the campus in addition BACKGROUND 108 to the trail. Born of the vision of journalist Henry Grady and Gov. Alexander Stephens TERRAIN (former vice president of the Confed- Gently rolling hills with eracy) that technology would be the plenty of sidewalks and an future of the “New South,” the Geor- abundance of shade trees make this gia Institute of Technology has been a comfortable trek any season of an integral part of Atlanta since it the year. opened in 1888. Since its modest Georgia Tech beginning as two championships. Of buildings on four the many memorable acres, Georgia Tech’s games that have been campus has grown to played in this stadium, 400 acres and six col- one to this day leges: Engineering, remains unequaled in Architecture, Sci- the record books. The ences, Computing, contest took place in Management, and 1916 and matched a Liberal Arts. The powerful Tech team school attracts stu- against a woeful dents from all cor- squad from Cumber- ners of the United land College. When States and abroad, the whistle blew to and boasts alumni in end the game, Geor- all 50 states and Georgia Tech Tower gia Tech led 222 to 0. many foreign coun- More than 95 years tries. In 1996, the later, it is still the most school was the site of the athletes’ lopsided victory in college football his- village and the venue for various tory. Tech’s coach that day was John Centennial Olympic Games events. Heisman, whose name is inscribed on Two of the school’s famous land- the famous trophy awarded annually marks are located near each other on to the nation’s premier college foot- North Ave. The Administration Build- ball player. Ironically, no Tech player ing, with its lighted sign, is known as has ever won the award. Tech Tower. One of the school’s orig- The area of the campus where the inal buildings, it was designed by tower and the stadium are located is Bruce and Morgan and initially also home to several of Tech’s oldest served as the administrative, aca- buildings. Designated the Georgia demic, and residential facility. Adja- Tech Historic District, it is listed on cent to the tower is the other the National Register of Historic landmark, Dodd-Grant Field, which Places. Walking from the old campus has been home to the school’s foot- westward, you pass the main library 109 ball team since the early 1900s. Clas- and the student center. Bending sic showdowns with longtime rivals north, you find state-of-the-art facil- Alabama, Auburn, Clemson, Florida ities for academic programs from State, and (of course) the University manufacturing to paper sciences. of Georgia have become the stuff of Along 10th St. are the president’s legend. The teams of 1917, 1928, 1952, home and Alexander Memorial Coli- and 1990 went on to earn national seum, home of the varsity basketball INTOWN team. At the intersection of 5th and campus that has been set aside as a Fowler Sts. is a large athletic facility National Historic District. known as “Rose Bowl Field.” As the 1. The Administration Building story goes, the land was acquired (1888)—225 North Ave. The Tech and the playing fields constructed Tower, designed in the Victorian with the funds earned from Tech’s Gothic style by the firm of Bruce and appearance in the 1929 Rose Bowl, a Morgan, is one of the original build- game made famous by Roy Reigels’ ings. In 1998, the building was rededi- “wrong way” run, which helped Tech cated to honor Lettie Pate Whitehead defeat the University of California 8 Evans, a business woman and philan- to 7. The facility now houses football thropist who supported many aca- practice fields and Russ Chandler demic institutions. Stadium, home of the varsity base- 2. The Carnegie Building (1907)— ball team. Beyond are gleaming new 223 Uncle Heine Way. This Beaux buildings housing internationally Arts Classical-style building was the renowned programs in biotechnol- college’s first library and a gift from ogy, environmental sciences, and industrialist Andrew Carnegie. The nanotechnology. The final section of building now houses the office of the the walk winds past fraternity and school’s president. sorority houses, the Edge Athletic 3. The Bill Moore Student Success Center, and the gates of historic Center (1993)—219 Uncle Heine Way. Bobby Dodd stadium. The center is a joint development of It is wonderful to visit during fall the school’s athletic and academic football weekends when the campus departments and houses Admis- is electric with anticipation of the sions, Financial Support, and Stu- upcoming game. The spring is dent Placement. It also blends with another good time, when the green- the modernization of Dodd-Grant ery is awakening, the dogwoods Field. Adjacent to the lobby is an are beginning to blossom, and the exhibit, Home Away From Home, that students are outside enjoying the depicts the history of dormitory life sunshine. Campus Information: 404- at Tech. The building is on the site of 894-2000; www.gatech.edu the 1897 Knowles Building where 110 Pres. Jimmy Carter lived while HISTORICAL MARKERS attending Tech. 1. Georgia Institute Of 4. Lyman Hall Building (1905)—221 Technology—Cherry St. and Uncle Heine Way. Named for Lyman Ferst Dr. Hall, the school’s first mathematics professor and second president NOTABLE PLACES (1896–1905), this Romanesque Note: Buildings 1–11 are included in the portion of the Georgia Tech Revival–style building houses admin- 10. Price Gilbert, Sr. Library (1953, istrative offices. expansion 1968)—704 Cherry St. 5. The A. French Building (1899)— Named for Georgia Supreme Court 237 Uncle Heine Way. This building, justice Price Gilbert, the building was which formerly housed the Textile constructed to house the school’s Engineering School, is named for collections that had long outgrown Aaron French of Pittsburgh, Pa. the original Carnegie Library. The French’s donation established the structure was designed by Paul Hef- textile engineering program. fernan in the Early Modern style. 6. The D. P. Savant Building Heffernan joined the Tech faculty in (1901)—631 Cherry St. Constructed to 1938 and was appointed Dean of the house the electrical engineering School of Architecture in 1956. He department, it was later named in was considered among the nation’s honor of Dr. Dominico P. Savant, a preeminent post–World War II archi- longtime professor and dean of the tect educators, and he designed sev- School of Electrical Engineering eral campus buildings, including (1921–51). The building now houses the School of Architecture (1952). A academic offices. major expansion of the library, 7. The Guggenheim Building designed by Robert and Co. Archi- (1929)—265 North Ave. Built with tects, opened in 1968. Today, the funds donated from the Daniel building houses the largest collection Guggenheim Foundation, this build- of patents in the Southeast. ing anchors the aeronautical and 11. Paul G. Mayer Garden (1987)— aerospace engineering programs. across from the entrance to the 8. The Chapin Building (1910s)— library. This small greenspace tucked 681 Cherry St. Built as the Joseph B. between classroom buildings was set Whitehead Memorial Hospital, the aside as a memorial to Dr. Paul G. building now serves as the center for Mayer, Regent’s Professor of Civil the Office of Minority Educational Engineering (1958–85). Development (OMED) Services. 12. Roe and Penny Stamps Stu- 9. The D. M. Smith Building dent Commons (1974)—350 Ferst Dr. (1923)—685 Cherry St. Designed in Built as the Houston Mall and Book- the Collegiate Gothic style and built store, the building was renovated 111 with funds donated by the Carnegie through a gift from GT alumnus Roe Foundation, this building originally Stamps for use as the students’ housed the physics department. It “family room” following relocation was named for Professor David of the campus bookstore to Technol- Smith who taught physics at Tech for ogy Square in 2002. The building 41 years (1913–54). Today the building houses shops, restaurants, meeting serves as classroom spaces for social spaces and the studio of campus studies programs. INTOWN radio station, WREK. It is noted for home to the school of Mechanical the “Spirit of Tech” stained-glass Engineering. The design is reminis- window. cent of a manufacturing plant. 13. The Fred B. Wenn Student 17. Callaway Student Athletic Center (1971)—350 Ferst Dr. This Complex and Aquatic Center—Ferst building contains meeting rooms, Dr. at 6th St. The center contains exhibit halls, dining facilities, game facilities for basketball, racquetball, rooms, and offices. It is named for and other intramural sports. The Fred B. Wenn, a professor of man- unusual, open-sided aquatic center agement and longtime supporter of was completed in 1995 as the venue a modern student center. The Cam- for the Olympic swimming and div- pus Visitor Information Center is ing competition. In 2002, the facility located on the second floor. Outside was expanded and remodeled to the center is an outdoor amphithe- enclose the aquatic center for year- ater surrounding a tall metal campa - round use. nile. This area was created as a site 18. The Fuller E. Callaway Manu- for multicultural worship services for facturing Research Center (1990)— the 1996 Olympic Games. 813 Ferst Dr. at Hemphill Ave. Named 14. Ferst Center for the Perform- for Tech alumnus and longtime pres- ing Arts (1992)—349 Ferst Dr. Named ident of Callaway Mills (and brother for alumnus Robert Ferst, the center of Cason Callaway, developer of features a state-of-the-art theatre Callaway Gardens in Pine Mountain, and the Richards and Westbrook Art Ga.), this mid-rise brick building Galleries. In addition to hosting pro- with horizontal rows of glass was fessional performers, the center is designed by Lord, Aeck and Sargent. also home to the student troupe 19. Institute of Paper Science and DramaTech. Information: 404-894- Technology (1995)—500 10th St. This 9600; www.ferstcenter.gatech.edu The building serves as headquarters of plaza outside the center is dedicated the institute dedicated to education to Dr. George Griffin, a professor and research in paper science. The and longtime Dean of Students. institute merged with Georgia Tech 15. Smithgall Student Services in 2002. Located off the lobby is the 112 Building (1997)—353 Ferst Dr. Dedi- Robert C. Williams Paper Museum, cated to alumnus Charles Smithgall, which features exhibits on the his- Jr., the center houses the offices of tory of paper-making from ancient the student government and numer- Egypt to the present day. Hours: 9 ous other campus organizations. AM–5 PM, Mon.–Fri. Information: 16. Love Manufacturing Building 404-894-7840; www.ipst.gatech.edu (2000)—771 Ferst Dr. Named in 20. Georgia Tech Broadband memory of alumnus J. Erskine Love, Institute’s Aware Home (2000)— founder of Printpak, this structure is 479 10th St. Housed in a 3-story

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. '03. 7 INTOWN house-like structure, the institute director William A. Alexander, the conducts research in domestic uses steel-arched structure uses no inter- of broadband technologies in a nal supports so no view is blocked home environment. The project was by columns. Designed by Aeck and undertaken through a grant from the Associates, it was the first of its kind Georgia Research Alliance. Informa- in the nation. In March 2003, the tion is available from the Aware hardwood court was dedicated to Home Research Initiative website: former basketball coach Bobby http://awarehome.imtc.gatech.edu Cremins. The adjacent Jim Luck 21. The Centennial Research Memorial Building, named for Building (1985)—10th St. at Dalney Tech’s longtime baseball coach, St. This building commemorates houses locker rooms and offices for the centennial of Tech’s charter. It the basketball programs. Across houses the offices of the Georgia Techwood Dr. from the coliseum is Tech Research Institute, which was the Bill Moore Tennis Center, pro- established as the Engineering Exper- viding courts for both intramural iment Station in 1934 to integrate and varsity play, and Griffin Track, Georgia Tech’s research capabilities home to the varsity track and field with industrial and governmental teams. A $45 million remodeling programs and projects. began in April 2011. It will reopen in 22. President’s Home (1949)— 2013 as the McCamish Pavilion. 10th St. across from the Graduate Liv- 25. Shirley Clements Mewborn ing Center. Built in traditional Geor- Softball Complex (2009)—935 Fowler gian style, the home was a gift to the St. Built on the site of the former school from alumnus Fuller Callaway. O’Keefe High School recreation field, 23. Turner Broadcasting System the state-of-the-art diamond is Headquarters (2000)—10th and home to the varsity softball team. Fowler Sts. This sprawling, modern The field was a gift from Duke Mew- complex houses studios and produc- born to honor the memory of his tion facilities for the many different wife, Shirley Clements Mewborn, a Turner programs from Turner Net- pioneering female Georgia Tech work Television (TNT), the Cartoon graduate from the 1950s. 114 Network (CN), Turner Classic Movies 26. O’Keefe Building (1924)—151 (TCM), and WTBS, the cable channel 6th St. Built as Atlanta’s O’Keefe established by founder Ted Turner in High School, the school closed in the 1970. 1960s. The building was acquired by 24. Alexander Memorial Tech in 1979, and today it houses the Coliseum (1956, expanded 1990 and Language Arts Department, the Eco- 1995)—965 Fowler St. Named for nomic Development Institute, and longtime football coach and athletic ROTC programs. The renovated gymnasium is used for varsity Georgia Tech women’s volleyball were provided by competitions. alumnus A. Russell 27. Technology Chandler III. Square (2002)—5th 31. Klaus and Spring Sts. (see Advanced Comput- #8). ing Center (2007)— 28. Paul Heffernan 266 Ferst St. This House (1940s)— imposing, curving 166 5th St. Built as a glass building set on private residence, a hillside overlooking architecture professor Ferst St. and Chan- Paul Heffernan lived dler Stadium is home here while teaching at to classrooms and Tech. Following his advanced computing death, the building research laborato- was used as the Dean Griffin ries. The structure is repository for exten- certified by LEED sive archives of his (Leadership in Energy work and records of the School of and Environmental Design). It was Architecture. These documents were designed by Perkins and Will and is relocated to the campus archives in named for benefactor and Tech 2007. alumnus Christopher Klaus. 29. Rose Bowl Field (1929)— 32. Ford Environmental Science Fowler and 5th Sts. This facility, ini- and Technology Building (2003)—311 tially developed with funds from the Ferst St. Designed to reflect architec- 1929 Rose Bowl victory, provides tural elements of earlier campus practice fields for the football team. buildings (but on a much larger scale, 30. Russ Chandler Stadium (1930, as this is the largest building at Tech), expansions in 1985 and 2002)—255 5th the structure houses classrooms and St. The original baseball field was laboratories for the Advanced Tech- built with funds from the 1929 Rose nology Development Center and the Bowl Game and has been home to School of Earth and Atmospheric Sci- the varsity baseball team since 1930. ences. The Ford Motor Company was 115 Through the decades, the complex a major contributor to construction has gone from wooden bleachers to of the building. the current state-of-the-art baseball 33. Parker Petit Institute for Bio- complex completed in 2002. Over engineering and Bioscience (1999)— 40 Tech players have gone on to play 315 Ferst Dr. This building, designed Major League Baseball. A portion of by the firm of Helmutt, Obata and the funds to construct the new sta- Kassabaum, provides classroom and dium during Tech’s Centennial (1985) laboratories for cutting-edge educa- INTOWN tional and research programs in life style by Tech professor Paul Heffer- sciences. The institute is home to the nan, was considered among the Georgia Tech–Emory Biomedical most advanced facilities of its kind at Engineering programs. It is named in the time of its completion. In addi- memory of Tech alumnus and bene- tion to architecture, the building factor, Parker H. Petit. houses the City Planning and Indus- 34. Marcus Nanotechnology trial Design programs. Building (2009)—Ferst and Atlantic 37. The Arthur B. Edge Intercolle- Sts. Considered a global hub of giate Athletic Center (1982)— research and development in nan- 220 Bobby Dodd Way adjacent to otechnology, the 190,000 square-foot Grant Field. Part of the J. C. “Bud” building features state-of-the-art Shaw Athletic Complex, named for classrooms and laboratories, includ- Tech alumnus and CEO of Shaw ing a 30,000-square-foot clean room. Industries. The centerpiece of the The building and programs have been complex is the Edge Center, named developed in a collaborative effort for another alumnus and former between Georgia Tech and the State president of Callaway Mills. It of Georgia. A portion of the funds to houses the Athletic Department construct the building was a gift from offices, training rooms, Hearn Aca- Home Depot co-founder Bernie demic Center, Homer Rice Center for Marcus. Faculty and researchers in Sports Performance, Sports Infor- nanotechnology work closely with mation Office, and home-team colleagues at the adjacent Biotech- locker room. Especially popular with nology Institute. visitors is the Mathews Athletic Her- 35. Joseph Petit Microelectronics itage Center, which contains exten- Research Center (1990)—791 Atlantic sive exhibits on the history of Tech Dr. The Center, named in honor of athletics. Outside the building’s the late Joseph Petit, Georgia Tech main entrance is a statue of leg- president 1972–86, houses facilities endary coach John Heisman. Hours: for interdisciplinary programs of 9 AM–4:30 PM, Mon.–Fri. and foot- microelectronics, optoelectronics, ball game days. and microsensors. In addition, staff 38. Dodd-Grant Field (1913)— 116 and faculty from GTRI conduct North Ave. at Techwood Dr. This has research and development projects been Tech’s football playing field within the facility. since 1904. The original West Stands 36. College of Architecture were constructed by student labor in (1952)—247 4th St. In 1948, the Col- 1913 with funds donated by Atlanta lege of Architecture was established businessman and school trustee John as part of Georgia Tech’s post-war W. Grant. In appreciation for the reorganization and expansion. This gift, the new facility was named in building, designed in the Modern memory of John Grant’s son, Hugh Georgia Tech Inman Grant. A gia State University. notable addition to With completion of the stadium is the residential facilities at William C. Wardlaw Georgia State, the Center, which complex was trans- replaced the south ferred to Georgia end-zone seats in Tech in 2007. 1986. The center con- 42. Coca-Cola tains a conditioning World Headquarters facility, visitors’ locker (1970–81)—310 North room, and offices of Ave. The centerpiece the Georgia Tech of this extensive com- Foundation. In 1988, plex is the 26-story the stadium was North Ave. Tower renamed in honor of capped by the famil- Tech’s longtime head iar script “Coca- football coach (1945– Cola.” One of only 2 66) and athletic existing copies of director, Bobby the secret original Dodd. In 2002, the formula for Coca- stadium underwent Campanile in the Georgia Tech Cola is reputedly extensive renovations Olympic Center locked in a vault here. and an expansion to 55,000 seats. 39. Brittain Dining Hall (1928)— 649 Techwood Dr. Once the campus’ SPECIAL FEATURES AND EVENTS main dining facility, the Gothic-style u Athletics: Georgia Tech com- building is most noted for its stained petes in the Atlantic Coast Confer- glass windows and exterior carvings. ence and offers intercollegiate 40. The L. W. “Chip” Robert athletics in football, basketball, ten- Alumni House (1910)—190 North Ave. nis, track, cross country, golf, soft- Built for the campus branch of the ball, wrestling, baseball, softball, YMCA, the Italianate-style building volleyball, and swimming. Information: now houses offices and meeting 404-894-5400; www.ramblingwreck.com 117 space for the Alumni Association. u Campus guided tours are avail- 41. North Avenue Apartments able daily at 11 AM and 2 PM. Con- (1995)—North Ave. between Tech- ducted by students, they are designed wood Ave. and I-75/85. Built to primarily for prospective students house athletes during the 1996 and their families. These tours last Olympic Games, this large residen- about two hours. Information: 404- tial complex later served as housing 894-6809 for students attending nearby Geor- u Exhibits: Ongoing exhibits are INTOWN scheduled in the Ferst Center gal- #14 Ansley Park leries and at other campus locations. u Homecoming: “Ramblin’ Wreck” parade and homecoming activities occur each fall on the weekend of the homecoming football game. u Lectures: Academic lectures and other presentations are sponsored by various campus groups. u Performances: Student-produced and professional theatrical, dance, and musical productions take place at the Ferst Center for the Per- forming Arts. The Center has a long tradition of high-quality productions: Information: 404-894-9600 u Other activities: Up-to-date activity information is listed in the Atlanta newspapers and in the student paper, the Technique. Campus information: 404-894-2000; www. gatech.edu

NEARBY ATTRACTIONS u The Fox Theatre—Ponce de Leon Ave. at Peachtree St. (See #11) u Telephone Museum— W. Peachtree St. and Ponce de Leon Ave. (See #11) u The Varsity—North Ave. at Spring St. This famous drive-in and 118 Tech hangout is a classic. OTHER WALKS IN THE AREA #1 Atlanta Heritage Trails #2 Atlanta University Center #10 Midtown #11 Peachtree Promenade #13 Piedmont Park & Atlanta Botanical Garden INTOWN C H A P T E R 1 3

DRIVING DIRECTIONS Piedmont Park Travel I-75/85 to 10th/14th Sts. (exit 250), take 10th St. east to Monroe & Atlanta Dr. Turn north and travel 0.8 mile to Worcester Rd. Turn west and follow Botanical signs, through a short tunnel, to the Garden Piedmont Park parking garage (fee). Parking Vehicle access to Piedmont Park is only available in the parking garage off Worcester Rd. Some street parking is available along side streets that branch away from the park. Com- mercial public parking facilities may be found one block west in the LOCATION Colony Square complex. The Atlanta About 3 miles northeast of down- Botanical Garden has a separate town on Piedmont Ave. between 10th parking deck off Piedmont Ave. St. and Monroe Dr. The hike begins at Piedmont Park’s Magnolia Hall by PUBLIC TRANSPORTATION the parking garage. Regular MARTA bus service GPS: N33.47.503/W 84.22.313 travels along Piedmont Ave. The #36 North Decatur bus operates TRAIL DISTANCE from the Arts Center rail station. The loop trail through the Both the Midtown rail station on park is about 3.8 miles. A visit 10th St. between Peachtree and West to the Atlanta Botanical Garden will Peachtree Sts. and the Arts Center 119 add about 1.5 miles. station on 15th St. behind the Woodruff Arts Center are within TERRAIN walking distance of the park. MARTA: The park is mostly level, 404-848-5000; www.itsmarta.com with some gentle hills in the northern part. Numerous stately BACKGROUND shade trees throughout embellish the Located in Midtown, Piedmont Park greenspaces. is Atlanta’s best-known public park. INTOWN

Midtown skyline from Lake Clara Meer

It was undeveloped woodland In 1895, the park was the site of when the Gentlemen’s Riding Club the Cotton States and International acquired it in 1887. Through the Exposition. The firm of Olmsted years, it has been the site of fairs, Brothers was called upon to design football and baseball games, con- the landscape for the fairgrounds, certs, and other gatherings. and much of the park’s layout and Late in 1887, the club sold all but several structures date from this a small portion of the land to a endeavor. The 3-month exposition group sponsoring the Piedmont drew nearly 1 million visitors and Exposition. Designed to promote offered more than 6,000 exhibits, Atlanta’s progress since the Civil among them a moving-picture theater War, this event drew crowds from and a Ferris wheel. The open grounds throughout the region and was high- in the park’s southeast corner (land lighted by an address from Pres. that would later become a golf Grover Cleveland. course) hosted performances by Following the exposition, the land Buffalo Bill’s Wild West Show and remained in private hands and was were the site for another football 120 used for a number of purposes and game between Georgia and Auburn. events, including the first college Many prominent people participated football game in Georgia. The con- in the Exposition, including Booker T. test in February 1892 pitted a team Washington, Gens. John Schofield from the University of Georgia (USA) and James Longstreet (CSA), against an Alabama Polytechnic Ohio governor (and later U. S. presi- Institute (now Auburn University) dent) William McKinley, Pres. Cleve- team. The visitors from Alabama land, and composer John Philip won the game 10–0. Sousa, who wrote “King Cotton Piedmont Park & Atlanta Botanical Garden March” for the occasion. After the soothing sounds of the Kool Jazz Fes- exposition, the park was the camp- tival, and Atlanta Symphony outdoor ground for a reunion of Confederate summer concerts are all high notes in veterans in 1898, and a few years later Piedmont Park history. served as home to the fledgling By the 1990s, the feet of millions Atlanta Crackers baseball team. of festival patrons, runners, and con- In 1904, the city government pur- cert-goers had taken their toll on chased the fairgrounds for use as a the park’s landscape, and many public park. A few years later, the said that Atlantans were “loving the Peace Monument at the 14th St. park to death.” Through citizen- entrance to the park was unveiled sponsored fundraising efforts and before a large crowd. Designed by renewed commitments from city New York sculptor Allan Newman, government, efforts were made to the figures symbolized the coming of begin restoration of the park’s green- peace and reconciliation between spaces and facilities. Since the estab- the North and South. During World lishment of the Piedmont Park War I, a large portion of the park Conservancy in the early 1990s, these was cultivated as a vegetable garden efforts have expanded with a solid to provide food for troops training vision for the park’s future and the at nearby Fort McPherson. goal of returning the park to the The annual Atlanta Arts Festival people. Work has been done to was a fixture in the park for four restrict vehicle access to the park, decades until a prolonged drought restore footpaths and recreation forced its relocation to Centennial fields, renovate significant buildings, Park in 2007; it returned to Piedmont construct a new outdoor amphithe- Park in 2009. For more than three ater and carousel, preserve remain- decades, the park marked the finish ing vestiges of the features Olmsted of the Peachtree Road Race. When designed for the Cotton States and course designers switched the finish International Exposition, and pro- line from downtown to Piedmont vide space for the Piedmont Dog Park in the mid-1970s, there were Park. Several historic park structures 10–15,000 participants; today the have been carefully restored and number of participants approaches updated. Plans call for a park expan- 121 60,000. Through the years, outdoor sion on property along the north- lovers have ushered in springtime by eastern boundary. flocking to the annual Atlanta Dog- A major park attraction is the wood Festival’s many events. Music Atlanta Botanical Garden. This pri- has also played an important role in vately supported horticultural center the park’s popularity. Sousa’s band was founded in 1976 on just a few concerts in the 1890s, the Allman acres with a trailer. Today the com- Brothers’ gigs in the early 70s, the plex contains about 60 acres of spe- INTOWN cialized gardens, walking paths, and first streetlight system (c. 1855), and a unique elevated Canopy Walk the granite blocks are remnants of above and through Storza Woods, a the first paved streets built in 1882. 15-acre hardwood forest preserve 2. Authors’ Grove—in lawn near with meandering trails. The trailer Noguchi Playscapes. Trees planted has been replaced by a Garden Cen- and marker erected to honor local ter with classroom and conference writers. Date unknown. spaces, and the spectacular $5.5 mil- 3. Booker T.Washington—on lion glass-enclosed Dorothy Chap- lawn south of 14th St. entrance man Fuqua Conservatory features a 4. Cotton States Exposition tropical rain forest and desert habi- of 1895—at 14th St. entrance and tats exhibiting many endangered park road. plants. In 1999, the Botanical Garden 5. Tenth Street School (1917–18) opened Atlanta’s first Children’s and Clark Howell School (1941–45) Garden, a 2-acre space offering inter- War Memorial—adjacent to 14th active exhibits and educational pro- St. entrance. Marker in memory of grams for budding green thumbs. school alumni killed in the two The most recent facilities at the gar- world wars. den are the Fuqua Orchid Center 6. Bataan and Corregidor Memo- featuring glass houses filled with rial—on lawn north of 14th St. exotic flowers from around the entrance. Erected in 1954 by Bataan world, a soothing Cascade Garden and Corregidor survivors in memory with flowing waterfalls, an Edibles of their comrades who died during Garden, and the new Hardin Visitor World War II. Center, which features a whimsical 7. American Valor Memorial—on glass chandelier by Dale Chihuly. lawn north of 14th St. entrance. Tree Piedmont Park’s second century planted and marker erected in 1922 signals a return of the park to its by Atlanta chapter of the United beloved place as Atlanta’s in-town Daughters of the Confederacy in oasis, the city’s “common ground.” memory of all who died for both North and South in the Civil War. HISTORICAL MARKERS 8. Memorial to Atlanta’s Pioneer 122 Piedmont Park is dotted Women, 1847–69—on the lawn with small markers commem- north of 14th St. entrance. orating a variety of individu- 9. Mayors’ Memory Grove— als and events. Some significant adjacent to Kids’ Kingdom play- ones are: ground south of the bathhouse. 1. Atlanta’s First Streetlights— Trees planted and marker erected Plaque in the small triangle by the by Atlanta Women’s Club in 1925 to Park Dr. entrance notes that the honor all Atlanta mayors from 1848 nearby lampposts are from Atlanta’s to present. Piedmont Park & Atlanta Botanical Garden

WESTMINSTER DR NE 11 Clear C STORZA WOODS N reek

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PIEDMONT AVE NE

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PIEDMONT AVE NE Lake Clara Meer 9 12TH ST NE 10 123 8

5 10TH ST NE 10TH ST NE

GPS: W 33. 47. 503 20 N 84. 22. 313 CHARLES 6 ALLEN DR INTOWN 10. Second-Oldest D.A.R. Chap- In 1944, he was commissioned to ter—Piedmont Ave. at 15th St. design the expanded building for the 11. Bate’s Division—Piedmont Ave. merger of Boys’ High and Tech High. at Westminster Dr. Renamed Grady High School for journalist Henry W. Grady, the NOTABLE PLACES school went coed in 1947. The adja- 1. Magnolia Hall (1945)— cent stadium was the site of the first adjacent to Worcester Rd. NFL football game played in Atlanta, parking deck. Constructed as park a 1962 exhibition contest between maintenance shops and blacksmith’s the Pittsburgh Steelers and the forge, the building has been restored Chicago Bears. and adapted for use as a visitor cen- 7. Lake Clara Meer and Gazebo ter and special events facility. (1895)—The small lake and gazebo 2. Piedmont Park Tennis Center were designed and built for the Cot- (1960s, renovated 1990s)—400 Park ton States Exposition. Both the lake Dr. Lighted courts and a pro shop and gazebo have been recently make this a popular place with in- restored. town tennis players. Information: 8. Free Nelson Mandela Monu- 404-853-3237. ment (1987)—Oak Hill. Sculpted by 3. Park Dr. Bridge (1916)—Park Dr. David Hammons, the monument’s entrance to the park. This ornate red iron gates symbolized Mandela’s brick and concrete structure is listed imprisonment in South Africa. on the American Historic Engineer- When he was freed, the gates were ing Survey. unlocked and opened, as they 4. Piedmont Dog Park (2002)— appear today. Below Park Dr. Bridge and north of 9. Dockside (1911)—just inside the the Meadow. Named one of the 12th St. entrance. Originally a boat- nation’s 10 best dog parks, this enclo- house and ladies comfort station, sure offers dogs a chance to play the building was renovated in 1996 leash-free as their owners watch. as the visitor center and offices for 5. Old Golf Course Clubhouse the Piedmont Park Conservancy. (1920s)—10th St. at Monroe Dr. Origi- Today, it is a special events facility. A 124 nally constructed to serve as the club- notable feature is the ceiling mural, house and pro shop for the Piedmont “A Day in the Park,” painted by Park golf course, the stone building Atlanta artist Ralph Gilbert. with its prominent clock tower has 10. Piedmont Park Conservancy been adapted as a restaurant. Community Center (1950s)— 6. Henry Grady High School Piedmont Ave. at 12th St. Built as an (1923)—10th St. at Monroe Dr. Origi- American Legion Post, this building nally Boys’ High, the original build- was acquired by the Piedmont Park ing was designed by Philip Shutze. Piedmont Park & Atlanta Botanical Garden Conservancy in 2002 for use by the The bandstand in the center of the local community. The front section of field is a gathering place. the building now houses a restaurant. 15. Stone Steps to the Tennis 11. Noguchi Playscapes (1976)— Courts and Athletic Fields (1895)— on the lawn north of the 12th St. The large fieldstone steps, part of entrance. Commissioned by the High the Olmsted design for the park, Museum of Art and designed by remain from the Cotton States and Japanese artist Isamu Noguchi, the International Exposition. playscapes are part sculpture and part 16. Mayor’s Grove Playground playground. After many years of use, (2007)—With a variety of activity the playscapes were renovated in 1996. centers, the playground is a warm- 12. Stone Archway (1926)—14th St. weather destination for families. entrance. This entrance is particu- 17. Greystone (1926, renovated larly memorable to pre-2001 Peach - 2009)—Built as a bathhouse when tree Road Race runners. For many swimming in Lake Clara Meer was years, it marked the beginning of the permitted, the building became the home stretch to the finish line inside centerpiece of the aquatic complex the park near 10th St. The entrance with construction of the swimming gates were a gift to the park by the pool in the 1940s. After years of dete- Atlanta Track Club. In 2001, the rioration, the pool was restored and road race finish line was relocated to reopened in 2009. The beautifully the open fields off 10th St. east of restored bathhouse, now called Charles Allen Dr. Greystone for its granite walls, is a 13. Peace Monument (1911)—inside special-events facility. the 14th St. entrance. Built with 18. Atlanta Botanical Garden funds raised primarily in Northern (1976, numerous additions and states, this sculpture commemorates expansions)—Piedmont Ave. at The the efforts of a peace mission to the Prado. This 60-acre center contains North by Atlanta’s Gate City Guard 16 different garden areas, including in 1879. This action inspired addi- a Japanese garden, a rose garden, tional efforts to heal the wounds of perennial gardens, vegetable gar- the Civil War; in 1911 the statue was dens, a backyard habitat, and chil- dedicated at an elaborate ceremony dren’s garden. Classroom and 125 representing reconciliation between meeting spaces enable the organiza- North and South. tion to host meetings and classes on 14. Active Oval (1890s–1990s)— a variety of topics. The $5.5 million These recreation fields served as the Dorothy Chapman Fuqua Conserva- Cotton States Exposition’s Grand tory—named for the wife of business- Plaza. In later years they were used at man and philanthropist J. B. Fuqua different times as a racetrack, a foot- and designed by Heery Interna- ball field, and baseball diamond. tional—opened in 1988. Also under INTOWN

garden management is Storza u Saturday Farmers Market— Woods, a 15-acre hardwood forest seasonal along the northern corner of Pied- u The Atlanta Botanical Garden mont Park. A network of trails—cre- presents numerous classes and exhi- ated at the turn of the century for bitions throughout the year. It also horseback riding—winds through the sponsors the annual “Gardens for area. Points of interest along the Connoisseurs,” a visit to several pri- trails are marked. In 2010, a soaring vate gardens around the city in May. Canopy Walk linking the main gar- u Other activities: For informa- dens with Storza Woods opened, as tion on upcoming events in the did a new Visitor Center, located just park, contact the Piedmont Park a short walk from the Piedmont Park Conservancy: 404-875-7275; www. garage. There is an admission fee, piedmontpark.org and annual memberships are available. Hours: 9 AM–6 PM, Tues.–Sun. NEARBY ATTRACTIONS Information: 404-876-5859; u Ansley Mall Shopping Center www.atlantabotanicalgarden.org u Colony Square shopping and 19. Piedmont Driving Club (1887, dining complex multiple renovations)—Piedmont u Midtown Plaza shopping area Ave. north of 14th St. This private u Robert W. Woodruff Arts club is the direct descendent of the Center and the High Gentlemen’s Riding Club, which Museum of Art originally owned much of the land u Virginia-Highland shopping that is now Piedmont Park. The cen- and dining district tral club building is a many-times remodeled 1867 farmhouse. OTHER WALKS IN THE AREA #10 Midtown SPECIAL FEATURES AND EVENTS #11 Peachtree Promenade Piedmont Park and the surrounding #12 Georgia Tech area are home to a wide variety of #14 Ansley Park annual events throughout the year #15 Virginia-Highland & including: Morningside 126 u Atlanta Dogwood Festival— April u Atlanta Dog Jog—April u The Mayor’s Walk—April u Peachtree Road Race Junior— June u Peachtree Road Race—July 4th u Peace Monument Rededica- tion—October N E A R T O W N C H A P T E R 1 4

dance of shade trees. The neighbor- Ansley hood’s sidewalk system is extensive, although tree roots make some areas Park difﬁcult to negotiate. Portions of Peachtree Cir. have designated bicycle lanes.

DRIVING DIRECTIONS Travel I-75/85 to 14th/10th Sts. (exit 250), east to Peachtree St., then north to 15th St.

Parking Street parking is available throughout the neighborhood.

LOCATION PUBLIC TRANSPORTATION About 3 miles north of downtown Ansley Park lies between two via Peachtree St. or Piedmont Ave., main MARTA bus routes along it borders Beverly Rd. on the north Peachtree St. (#110 Peachtree) and and 14th St. on the south. The Piedmont Ave. (#36 North Decatur). hike begins at the intersection of These buses serve the Five Points, Peachtree and 15th Sts. North Ave., Arts Center, Lindbergh, GPS: N33.47.339/W 84.22.991 and/or Lenox Square rail stations. The neighborhood is a short walk TRAIL DISTANCE east from the Arts Center rail sta- The loop through the neighborhood tion. MARTA: 404-848-5000; is about 4 miles. www.itsmarta.com 127 TERRAIN BACKGROUND Peachtree St. follows a Ask a hundred Atlantans to describe ridgeline and the streets their worst nightmares about driving that wind through Ansley Park in the city, and a few will tell you descend moderately away from it. nothing is worse than getting lost in The terrain is mostly rolling hills, Ansley Park. A street map reveals why some fairly steep, with an abun- Ansley Park may be Atlanta’s answer INTOWN to the Bermuda Tri- ing in a Stutz or angle: no square Packard. Parks and blocks, no straight greenspaces would avenues, nor appar- offer space for com- ent pattern to the munity gatherings winding lanes to and recreation. Not unlock the neighbor- surprisingly, Ansley hood’s navigational chose Olmsted’s secrets. The confus- protégé, Solon Ruff, ing maze did not to turn his vision just happen—it was into reality. planned that way! The ﬁrst homes In 1904, these in Ansley Park were rolling, heavily constructed in 1905, forested hills were and residential part of the farm development con- estate of pioneer First Church of Christ Scientist and tinued steadily for Atlantan George midtown skyline another 25 years. Washington Collier. Unlike other in-town The Collier house, neighborhoods, built in 1823 and remodeled many Ansley Park weathered the post– times, still stands at 1649 Lady Mar- World War II exodus to the suburbs ian Ln. in adjacent Sherwood Forest. with most of its unique character After Collier’s death, developer intact. Although the housing crunch Edwin Ansley, with partners William of that period did result in some Winecoff and Edward Inman, bought houses being divided into apart- a large tract of Collier’s land for a ments, today many have returned to new kind of residential community single-family use. Beautiful homes, tailored to the latest advance in winding lanes, and many small parks transportation—the automobile. make this a walker’s delight. Ansley Ansley’s vision did not include ram- Park’s signiﬁcance has been recog- rod-straight avenues suitable for trol- nized by its placement on the 128 ley car tracks and small bungalows National Register of Historic Places. set near the sidewalk to shorten the commuter’s stroll to the car stop. HISTORICAL MARKERS Inspired by Frederick Law Olmsted’s 1. Bate’s Division—Piedmont recent design of nearby Druid Hills, Ave. at Westminster Dr. Ansley planned a pastoral setting in 2. Second Oldest D.A.R. which large wooded lots would be Chapter—Piedmont Ave. at 15th St. gracefully connected by broad, curv- 3. Habersham Memorial Hall— ing streets, ideal for leisurely motor- in front of 270 15th St. Ansley Park

Ellis house

NOTABLE PLACES 4. Henri DeGive House (1911)— 1. First Church of Christ, 8 Peachtree Cir. While the architect Scientist (1914)—1235 Peach - is unknown, this house is a rare tree St. Designed in the Classical Atlanta example of the Prairie style. Greek Revival style by Edward E. It was commissioned by DeGive, Dougherty and Arthur N. Robinson, operator of the opera house in the building’s notable features downtown Atlanta founded by his include the large Corinthian columns father, Laurent, in 1870. DeGive’s and the iridescent bronze dome. Opera House became Loew’s Grand The church sits at one of the formal Theater where Gone With the Wind entrances to the neighborhood. premiered in 1939. 2. Frank Ellis House (1911)— 5. Frank Hulse House (1986)— 1 Peach tree Cir. Designed by Walter 96 Westminster Dr. Inspired by the T. Downing, this house is particularly works of Richard Meier, designer noted for the five large French doors of the nearby High Museum, this across the front and the two lion house and adjoining pool pavilion sculptures guarding the entrance. Ellis are the award-winning design of was an Atlanta business executive. Anthony Ames. 129 3. William F. Winecoff House 6. Robert Crumley House (1917)— (1912)—37 Peachtree Cir. This home 17 Inman Cir. This 2-story brick home was built for Winecoff, owner of is a Neel Reid design commissioned the Winecoff Hotel on Peachtree by Crumley, a hardware company St. The Winecoff was the site of executive. the worst hotel fire in U. S. history 7. Stephen Lynch House (1921)— (119 lives were lost, including Wine - 109 Peachtree Cir. A white brick home coff’s) on December 7, 1946 (see #1). that was also designed by Neel Reid. INTOWN 8. Edmonson House (1910s)— Georgia Trust for Historic Preserva- 100 17th St. This large stucco home tion. Tours: 11 AM–4 PM, Mon.–Fri. with Gothic styling is another Ansley Information: 404-885-7800; www. Park residence designed by A. Ten georgiatrust.org. NL Eyck Brown. 13. Judge Luther Z. Rosser House 9. A.Ten Eyck Brown House (1911)—262 The Prado. This house, (1912)—128 17th St. Built of brick and located on a hill overlooking the masonry in an eclectic style, this neighborhood, was designed in the house was designed by Brown for his half-timbered Tudor style by Neel own residence. NL Reid. 10. Old Woodberry School 14. Jones H. Ewing House (1911)— Building (1915)—149 Peachtree Cir. This 106 Inman Cir. This Greek Revival– massive structure dominating a tree- style house was built by Ewing, a covered hillside was built as a private realtor. It is noted for its carved mold- school for girls. The building was later ings and large columned portico. divided into apartments. The large 15. Moore-Wilkerson House Ionic columns were once part of the (1910s)—27 Maddox Dr. Designed Austin Leyden house (1859–1913), by A. Ten Eyck Brown, this smaller located on Peachtree St. near the home is notable for the unusual present Macy’s building (see #1). stone columns supporting a long 11. Michael Hoke House (1905)— portico. 210 Peachtree Cir. Originally built for 16. Piedmont Driving Club Dr. Michael Hoke, one of the found- (1895)—1215 Piedmont Ave. This pri- ing physicians of Piedmont Hospital vate club was chartered in 1887, and (and later, a personal physician to the original portion of the main Pres. Franklin D. Roosevelt at Warm building was constructed from stone Springs), the house is reminiscent remnants of the B. F. Walker house, of New England. An early area resi- built in 1867. Nearly destroyed by fire dent and a friend of the developer, in 1906, it was rebuilt in 1907. Mrs. Hoke named many Ansley 17. Second Oldest D.A.R. Chapter Park streets. (1911)—1204 Piedmont Ave. This chap- 12. Rhodes Memorial Hall (1903)— ter of the Daughters of the American 130 1516 Peachtree St. Following a Euro- Revolution, organized in 1891, is the pean trip, furniture retailer Amos G. oldest in Georgia and second oldest Rhodes commissioned Willis F. in the nation. In 1895, “Craigie Denny to create a Bavarian castle. House,” the Massachusetts pavilion The building is an excellent example at the Cotton States Exposition, of the Victorian Romanesque Revival was given to the group as a chapter style. It is now owned by the State of house. This new Craigie House Georgia Department of Archives and replaced the original one in 1911. The History, and is headquarters of the Ansley Park ± 25 26 ANSLEY

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Winn Park

building, vacant for many years, is been extensively remodeled. The in need of restoration. original building was Edward 18. Habersham Memorial Hall Inman’s carriage house. More recent (1923)—270 15th St. This large owners dubbed it “Sandcastle.” Regency-style house was designed 21. David Black House (1921)— by Henry Hornbostel (who also gave 186 15th St. This American Georgian– Emory University its architectural style house was designed by Neel character) and is an adaptation of Reid for Black, a Buick automobile the Bulloch-Habersham House in dealer. Savannah. For many years it was 22. William O. Jones House the headquarters of the Joseph (1907)—178 15th St. Constructed of Habersham Chapter of the National red brick with prominent rounded Daughters of the American Revolu- arches and large rectangular win- tion. It is now Habersham Hall dows, the house is a fine example of condominiums. an eclectic Victorian style. The house 132 19. George Muse House (1907)— was purchased by clothing store 253 15th St. A distinctive yellow brick owner James P. Allen in 1924. Tudor-style residence, it was built for 23. The Castle (1910)—87 15th St. clothing store owner George Muse. In Called Fort Peace by its builder, agri- 1985 it was converted into a bed-and- cultural machinery dealer Ferdinand breakfast inn, but badly damaged in McMillan, this imposing house a later fire. The house is now vacant. resembles a medieval fortress, com- 20. Flomar (1905)—51 Lafayette Dr. plete with slit windows and a turret. This rambling Tudor-style house has Ansley Park It is built of Stone Mountain granite, front entrance and window treat- and is now part of AT&T’s Prome- ments. Today it is condominiums. nade complex. 24. The Robert W. Woodruff SPECIAL FEATURES AND EVENTS Arts Center (1968) and The High u Parks and recreation: The Museum (1983)—1280 Peachtree St. neighborhood has several small The Arts Center is home to the parks with picnic areas, athletic Atlanta Symphony, the Alliance The- fields, and recreational equipment. atre, the Alliance Children’s Theatre, The largest parks, which are noted and the Savannah College of Art on the trail map, are McClatchey, and Design—Atlanta. Adjacent to Winn, and Yonah. The parks are an the performance hall is the High excellent vantage point from which Museum of Art, designed by Richard to admire this neighborhood sur- Meier and completed in 1983. The rounded by towering skyscrapers. complex was expanded with a dra- Nearby Piedmont Park hosts a variety matic addition designed by Renzo of events during the year (see #9). Piano in 2006. It houses a variety of u The Ansley Park Tour of permanent and traveling exhibits. Homes—April There is an admission fee for adults; u The Atlanta Preservation Cen- children under 12 enter free. Member- ter conducts walking tours of Ansley ships are available. Hours: 10 am– Park (seasonal). Information: 404- 5 pm Tues.–Sat.; 12 pm–5 pm, Sun. 876-2040; www.preserveatlanta.org Woodruff Arts Center information: 404-733-4200; www.woodruff-arts.org NEARBY ATTRACTIONS High Museum information: 404-733- u Atlanta Botanical Garden 4444; www.high.org u Colony Square dining and 25. Ansley Golf Club (1913)— shopping complex 196 Montgomery Ferry Dr. This pri- u Piedmont Park vate club is a focal point of Ansley Park social life. The 9-hole golf OTHER WALKS IN THE AREA course, completed in 1910, was #10 Midtown open to the public until acquired by #11 Peachtree Promenade the club. #12 Georgia Tech 133 26. The Villa Apartments (1920)— #13 Piedmont Park & Atlanta 200 Montgomery Ferry Dr. Designed Botanical Garden in the High-Renaissance Eclectic #15 Virginia-Highland & style by Philip T. Shutze, the building Morningside originally served as guest quarters #19 Tanyard Creek Park & for out-of-town visitors to the Ansley Brookwood Hills Golf Club. Note the ornately carved N E A R T O W N C H A P T E R 1 5

DRIVING DIRECTIONS Virginia- Travel north on Peachtree St., turn right on Ponce de Leon Ave., Highland & then east to North Highland Ave. Turn north and drive about 1 mile to Morningside the Virginia-Highland commercial area. Or travel I-75/85 south to North Ave. (exit 249C), then east to North Highland Ave.; or I-75/85 north to Linden Ave. (exit 249D), east to Piedmont Ave., north to North Ave., and east to North High- land Ave.

Parking There is limited parking in the Vir- LOCATION ginia-Highland commercial area and About 4 miles northeast of down- additional parking near Morningside town. A good starting point is the School and Haygood Memorial Virginia-Highland commercial dis- Methodist Church. Parking is also trict at Virginia and North Highland permitted on most side streets. Aves. GPS: N33.47.002/W84.21.264 PUBLIC TRANSPORTATION MARTA buses serving Virginia- TRAIL DISTANCE Highland operate from the The loop through the two Midtown or Avondale (#36 North communities is about 6.3 Decatur) and Five Points (#16 Noble) 134 miles. rail stations. MARTA: 404-848-5000; www.itsmarta.com TERRAIN North Highland Ave. fol- BACKGROUND lows a rolling ridgeline, with This tour winds along the tree- side streets moderately descending shaded streets of two enduring away from it. Portions of the route in-town neighborhoods. Virginia- have good sidewalks, and shade Highland, the older of the two com- trees abound throughout. munities, ﬁrst offered residential Virginia Highland & Morningside

Morningside–Lenox Park boundary marker lots for sale in 1916. Although World nities. Streetcars stopped running War I stifled development plans, by in the late 1940s and were replaced 1919 the area had rapidly grown into by electric buses with their web of a dynamic, bustling community overhead wires. The state of Georgia called North Boulevard Park. With nearly dealt the neighborhood a the convenience of the streetcar that death blow when highway planners ran up North Highland Ave. as far as projected the need for a direct trans- Amsterdam Ave., North Boulevard portation route between downtown Park became an established bunga- and Stone Mountain and proposed low community of attractive homes construction of a four-lane express- designed to appeal to middle-class way that would have bisected the Atlantans who could easily commute community. Despite strong opposi- to downtown. Most homes in the tion, land was acquired, and houses area are similar in their basic design were condemned and razed to make and size and are variations of the way for the road. Eventually the proj- Craftsman style: brick construction, ect was halted but much damage 135 steeply pitched roofs, high ceilings, was already done. Property values front porches, large windows had plummeted, many residents arranged in rows across the front, moved away, and a number of and small, livable interior spaces. houses—now state property—fell into The neighborhood steadily grew disrepair and neglect. until the 1950s, when population The renaissance of in-town living shifts to the bustling suburbs caused that began in the late 1960s breathed the decline of many in-town commu- new life into the neighborhood—now INTOWN called Virginia- tion of new homes Highland. The com- was given a boost munity became a when the area haven for young was annexed into families, artists and the city of Atlanta artisans, the Emory in 1925. University academic The neighbor- community, and hood is also the site business people of long-vanished weary of ever-longer Lanier University, commutes from the established by Bap- suburbs. They rec- tist minister Charles ognized the lasting L. Fowler in 1917 and quality of the sturdy named for Georgia old homes and saw poet Sidney Lanier. the opportunity to Fowler believed that restore or remodel Virginia-Highland Fire Station the city and region them. Today, Vir- needed an “all ginia-Highland is a Southern Baptist vibrant blend of old-timers and new- university” and raised initial funds for comers, and neighbors stroll along construction from the Georgia Bap- the sidewalks and relax on their front tist Convention. Plans called for porches. Neighborhood information: development of a 56-acre campus on www.vahi.org newly constructed University Dr. off In the community of Morning- North Highland Ave. Classes began side, just north of Virginia-High- in the fall of 1917 and the school’s first land, portions of the northern and (and only) building, a replica of western part of the neighborhood Arlington (the Custis-Lee mansion in contain estate homes on large lots Virginia) opened in 1919. However, by that suggest the grand style of Ans- 1921 the school was in financial failure ley Park. Many homes in the south- and the property was purchased by ern and eastern part of the area the Ku Klux Klan. The Klan had plans 136 blend closely with the Craftsman to start its own college teaching bungalows of Virginia-Highland. “100% Americanism.” This plan, too, Like Virginia-Highland, Morningside failed and the building was converted grew during the boom years follow- to apartments. In 1949 the structure ing World War I. James R. Smith was purchased by Congregation and Marvin S. Rankin purchased Shearith Israel, which was relocating land in what was then a farming from south Atlanta to meet the needs community and began to lay out of the growing Jewish population in residential lots for sale. Construc- Morningside. The congregation Virginia Highland & Morningside moved into a new sanctuary in 1961 intersection of N. Rock Springs and and continues to use the old building E. Rock Springs Rds. for educational purposes. 3. Wood’s Division, Fourth The Depression brought develop- Corps—at Piedmont Ave. and Pel- ment to a standstill until 1932, when ham Rd. the architectural firm of Ivey and 4. Stanley’s and Wood’s Sector— Crook began work on Lenox Park intersection of Johnson and Lenox along East Rock Springs Rd. These Rds. landscaped houses of brick and stone reflect the English Country and NOTABLE PLACES Tudor Revival styles of that period. 1. Virginia-Highland Com- Today, the entrance to Lenox Park is mercial District (1920s)— marked by four white columns on intersection of Virginia and N. East and West Sussex Rds. where Highland Aves. Although modern- they intersect with East Rock Springs ized, these buildings retain the look Rd. Neighborhood information: and feel of the 1920s when they were www.mlpa.org built. Most now house a mix of Just across from Lenox Park is shops, restaurants, and taverns. Morningside Elementary School. Highland Hardware, renovated in Built by the Works Progress Adminis- 1984 and recipient of an Urban tration (WPA) in 1934, the school Design Commission award, is one exhibits the creative use of brick that example. is so evident throughout the neigh- 2. Virginia-Highland Fire Station borhood. Parts of Morningside suf- No. 19 (1921)—1063 N. Highland Ave. fered the same post–World War II Designed in the bungalow style with decline seen in other parts of the Italianate details, the station blends city, but the neighborhood has with the neighborhood’s residential rebounded strongly. architecture. Today, Virginia-Highland and 3. Highland Park Shopping Morningside are models of success- Center (1920s)—between University ful urban living, where people stroll Dr. and Lanier Pl. Constructed to the sidewalks, browse neighborhood serve the growing needs of neighbor- shops, and gather at cozy cafes— hood residents, the buildings now 137 all just a short walk from their front house specialty shops and restau- doors. rants. 4. Shearith Israel Educational HISTORICAL MARKERS Building (Arlington replica) (1919)— 1. Cheatham’s Salient—Zim- 1180 University Dr. Established in mer Dr. and N. Highland Ave. 1904 near present-day Turner Field, 2. Woodrow Wilson the congregation moved to this Memorial Plaque—small park at the location in 1946, becoming the first INTOWN synagogue in DeKalb County. A new 8. Lenox Park Entrance Columns synagogue was erected in 1961 and (1930s)—across from Haygood the older building, a replica of Church. These ornate columns, sur- Arlington House in Virginia and once rounding a grass common known part of defunct Lanier University, has as Sunken Garden Park, were been renovated for use as the Ben H. designed by Ivey and Crook to Zimmerman Religious School. It also denote the development’s formal houses the Canterbury School. entrance. 5. Highland House (1914)—1199 9. The Sussex (1931)—1625 E. Sus- High Point Dr. Once headquarters sex Rd. This brick home, in the style of the Georgia chapter of the of an English manor house, was one Women’s Christian Temperance of three model homes designed by Union (WCTU), the structure is Ivey and Crook in the neighborhood. now part of Morningside Park 10. Harry Dwoskin House (1941)— condominiums. 1750 W. Sussex Rd. This elegant 6. Haygood Memorial United home, an interpretation of the Gov- Methodist Church (1947)—1015 E. ernor’s Palace in Colonial Williams- Rock Springs Rd. Along with the burg, was designed by Philip Shutze adjacent elementary school, Hay- for Harry Dwoskin, owner of a wall- good has been a center of neighbor- coverings business on Peachtree St. hood life for years. The congregation Shutze also designed the home’s for- was established in 1925, and land was mal gardens. purchased for the church in 1941. It is 11. The Chateau (1931)—963 Ply- named for Bishop Atticus Haygood, mouth Rd. Resembling a French president of Emory College (1875– country estate, this was another of 84), and his sister Laura Haygood, a Ivey and Crook’s model homes for missionary to China. the neighborhood. 7. Morningside Elementary 12. Original Lenox Park Entrance School (1934)—1053 E. Rock Springs Marker (1931)—880-876 Plymouth Rd. A 6-room school was erected on Rd. This original boundary marker this site in 1929, but dramatic growth was the model for the new ones of the neighborhood prompted con- erected in 1991. 138 struction of the main building in 1934 13. Model Home (1928)—705 E. with the aid of the Works Progress Morningside Dr. Designed by R. Ken- Administration (WPA). Designed by non Perry, this Tudor-style, brick and George H. Bond, the structure is an half-timber house was built by excellent example of the rarely seen Thomas Windham as an Atlanta Tudor-Jacobean style. A 1994 addi- Constitution Master Model Home to tion, designed by Mark Reese, won promote better home construction. an Atlanta Urban Design Commis- 14. James R. Smith Home (1923)— sion award. 626 E. Morningside Dr. Built as the Virginia Highland & Morningside

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26 N ± GPS: N 33. 47. 002 W 84. 21. 264 INTOWN residence for services in an edu- developer James R. cation building Smith, the house nearby. Work was profiled in began in 1946 on “National Better the present sanc- Homes Week” in tuary, designed by May 1924. It is Philadelphia flanked by two old architect Thomas street lamps. Wagner and set 15. Mediter- well back from the ranean-Style street on a heavily Houses (1920s)— wooded lot. The Dean Rusk home 696-715 Sherwood soaring steeple Rd. Six distinctive was added stucco houses, all in 1955. constructed before 1929, reflect 19. Congregation Anshi S’Fard Spanish and Italian influences. (c. 1920s)—1324 N. Highland Ave. 16. Sidney Marcus Park (1983)— Established in 1911, this is the oldest 800 block of Sherwood Rd. Devel- Orthodox Jewish congregation in oped on land cleared for the pro- Atlanta. It moved to this location in posed I-485, the property was the 1940s. acquired for the neighborhood 20. North Highland Commercial through a land swap negotiated District (c. 1928)—North Highland with the Georgia Department of Ave. at Amsterdam Ave. This small Transportation by state legislator commercial district, established to Sidney Marcus. offer services to early residents, now 17. Dean Rusk Home (1920s)— houses boutiques and cafes. 1511 N. Morningside Dr. This modest 21. Orme Park (1920s)—Glen brick house was the residence of Arden Way and Brookridge Dr. This Robert and Frances Rusk while greenspace with picnic area and their son, Dean, was a student at playground has been a neighbor- nearby Boys High School. Rusk was hood gathering place for years. The 140 appointed Secretary of State by sculpted stone bridge at the western Pres. John F. Kennedy in 1960 and end of the park once marked the for- continued in this role under Pres. mal entrance to a small development Lyndon Johnson. He later became a of the same name. professor at the University of Geor- 22. Inman Middle School (1924)— gia School of Law. Virginia Ave. at Park Dr. Named for 18. Morningside Presbyterian Samuel Inman, a 19th century civic Church (1949)—1411 N. Morningside and business leader, the school was Dr. The congregation originally held built for the growing families of Virginia Highland & Morningside North Boulevard Park. Italianate in the nearby streetcar line and was the style, it is marked by features of the vision of Edwin W. Grove, a patent neo-Byzantine style and was designed medicine millionaire and builder of by Warren C. Powell. It became a the famous Grove Park Inn in Ashe - middle school in 1978 and underwent ville, North Carolina. The Atkins a major expansion in 2004. Park Delicatessen, established in 23. John Howell Memorial Park 1922, is Atlanta’s oldest restaurant in (1996)—Virginia Ave. between Park continuous operation. Dr. and Barnett St. This neighborhood park, created on land where SPECIAL FEATURES AND EVENTS houses once stood, contains u Virginia-Highland Tour of playscapes and picnic areas. A Homes—April notable feature of the park is the u Virginia-Highland Summer- soaring metal sculpture Phoenix of fest—June Atlanta 1996 by Ivan Bailey. At the u Morningside Tour of Homes— center of the park is the Cunard October Memorial Playground, created in memory of members of a local fam- NEARBY ATTRACTIONS ily killed when a tree fell on their u Ansley Mall Shopping Center automobile during a 2003 storm. u Callanwolde Fine Arts Center: Note: For many years, 24–25 were Housed in the former Tudor Gothic derelict victims of the failed highway estate of Charles Howard Candler, project. They were restored in the 1980s. the center offers exhibitions, classes, 24. Milton S. Craig House (1916)— and programs in the visual, literary, 904 Virginia Ave. This Tudor-style and performing arts. 980 Briarcliff home predates the major develop- Rd. Information: 404-872-5338; ment of the area. Craig, the first www.callanwolde.org owner, was a traveling salesman. u Midtown Plaza Shopping 25. Dr. Eugene E. Bragg House Center (1916)—881 Virginia Ave. This large Victorian-style house was built for OTHER WALKS IN THE AREA Bragg, a local physician. #8 Inman Park 26. Atkins Park National Historic #9 Freedom Park, Candler Park & 141 District (1900s)—just north of Ponce Little Five Points de Leon Ave. on N. Highland Ave. #10 Midtown This compact residential develop- #13 Piedmont Park & Atlanta ment on St. Augustine, St. Charles, Botanical Garden and St. Louis Places, along with the #14 Ansley Park small commercial district, was a #16 Druid Hills planned community. It was estab- #17 Fernbank Forest lished here for convenient access to #18 Emory University INTOWN C H A P T E R 1 6

over some streets. Most streets have Druid sidewalks that are in fair to good Hills condition. DRIVING DIRECTIONS Travel Peachtree St. north to Ponce de Leon Ave., then east to Bri- arcliff Rd.; or I-75/85 south to North Ave. (exit 249C), east to Piedmont Ave., north to Ponce de Leon Ave., and east to Briarcliff Rd.; or I-75/85 north to Linden Ave. (exit 249D), east to Piedmont Ave., north to Ponce de Leon Ave., and east to Briarcliff Rd.

Parking LOCATION Some street parking is available Three miles northeast of downtown. along side streets, but not on Ponce As marked, the hike begins at the de Leon Ave. or Briarcliff Rd. intersection of the PATH Trail and South Ponce de Leon Ave. PUBLIC TRANSPORTATION GPS: N33.46.468/W84.20.481 Regular MARTA bus service (#2 Ponce de Leon) is available TRAIL DISTANCE along Ponce de Leon Ave. Buses The loop is about 6.3 miles. An serve the North Ave. and Decatur access trail to the PATH Foun- rail stations. MARTA: 404-848-5000; dation’s Atlanta–Stone Mountain www.itsmarta.com 142 Greenway is on South Ponce de Leon Ave. just east of Fairview Rd. You BACKGROUND may begin the walk at any point A stately, older residential area, along the route. Druid Hills was developed largely during the years just prior to World TERRAIN War I. Composed of nearly 1,500 Druid Hills was built on acres, this neighborhood of park-like gently rolling hills where grounds and sizable houses was the ample shade trees create a canopy vision of developer Joel Hurt. Only a Druid Hills

Neel Reid house few years before, Hurt had achieved decade. In 1903, John Olmsted com- moderate success with the develop- pleted his father’s original plans and ment of nearby Inman Park, but the name “Druid Hills” was officially financial constraints forced him to given to the project. Development compromise on its design. In 1890, he began in 1907, but Hurt continued to created the Kirkwood Land Company have financial difficulties and was to purchase 1,400 acres of prime land forced to sell the property in 1908. for $63,000. His goal for this new The land was purchased by a development was to create a meticu- group of investors spearheaded by lously landscaped neighborhood real estate developers Forrest and where Atlanta’s well-to-do citizens George Adair, Coca-Cola president could purchase estate-sized tracts of Asa G. Candler, and Georgia Power land and construct large, fine houses. executive Preston Arkwright. The Hurt wanted the street and price of $500,000 was, at that time home-sites to capture the natural in the city’s history, the highest ever beauty of the area’s rolling hills and paid for a parcel of land. The meadows. He retained landscape investors formed the Druid Hills Cor- architect Frederick Law Olmsted to poration and dedicated themselves create the development’s design. to carrying out the plan Hurt had Olmsted personally worked on the conceived and the Olmsteds had 143 preliminary drawings, which were designed. With solid financial back- completed in 1893. After he retired, ing, the development moved ahead his firm, Olmsted Brothers, operated and construction began in earnest. by his sons, completed the plan fol- The first home was completed in lowing the senior Olmsted’s original 1908. Many homes remain excellent ideas. A severe financial depression examples of the architectural styles in the early 1890s forced Hurt to popular during the early years of the shelve his plans for more than a 20th century. INTOWN

Heinz house (Rainbow Terrace)

One fine example is Callanwolde, Reid. They vary in style from Ameri- built in 1920 by Charles Howard Can- can-Georgian to Country French and dler, eldest son of Asa Candler. The include the house at 1426 Fairview house was the work of Henry Horn- Rd. that Reid designed for himself in bostel, designer of many early build- 1914 and occupied with his mother ings on the nearby Emory University for two years prior to acquiring campus. The house, built in the Mimosa Hall in Roswell and moving Tudor-Gothic style, and its 12 land- there in 1916. scaped acres are now owned by Druid Hills escaped much of the DeKalb County and operated as a decline suffered by in-town neigh- fine arts center. Tours, exhibitions, borhoods following World War II. theatrical productions, and other Long-standing family loyalty of the cultural events are conducted neighborhood’s residents to Druid throughout the year. Callanwolde is Hills and close proximity to Emory listed on the National Register of University likely mitigated decline. Historic Places. The Druid Hills parks and park- Another Candler estate, Briarcliff, ways that Olmsted designed remain was owned by Asa G. Candler, Jr. It Atlanta gems. The rolling, landscaped once housed an exotic animal collec- grounds, large houses, curving 144 tion that drew the ire of Candler’s streets, and string of linear parks neighbors. Facing possible lawsuits, along Ponce de Leon Ave.—Spring- Candler donated his menagerie to dale, Virgilee, Oak Grove, Shady Side, the Atlanta Zoo (see #7). Candler’s Dellwood, and Deepdene—are all home and estate at 1260 Briarcliff integral parts of Olmsted’s original Rd. are now part of the Emory Uni- plan. Only Riverside in Chicago, IL, is versity campus. as well preserved an Olmsted neigh- Druid Hills also features a num- borhood as Druid Hills. The Druid ber of early houses designed by Neel Hills Historic District is listed on the Druid Hills National Register of Historic Places. club provided local residents a place Information: www.druidhills.org for recreation and socializing. The golf course was designed by Herbert HISTORICAL MARKERS H. Barker. 1. Alpha Delta Pi Memorial 5. Fernbank Museum of Natural Headquarters—in front of History (1992)—767 Clifton Rd. This 1386 Ponce de Leon Ave. highly acclaimed facility features 2. Old Williams Mill Rd.—Briar- traveling exhibitions and permanent cliff Rd. between St. Charles Pl. and exhibits including Traveling Through St. Augustine Pl. Time in Georgia, Giants of the Meso- zoic, and The First Georgians, among NOTABLE PLACES others. It also contains Atlanta’s 1. T. Guy Woolford House first IMAX Theatre. It is a part of (1931)—1609 S. Ponce de the Fernbank educational complex, Leon Ave. Built for Woolford, who which includes a science center, plan- with his brother Cator cofounded etarium, observatory, laboratories, the Retail Credit Company (now and forest. Hours: 9 AM–6 PM, Equifax). Mon.–Sat.; 12 PM–6 PM, Sun. Infor- 2. Lloyd Preacher House (1928)— mation: 404-378-0127; www.fernbank. 1627 S. Ponce de Leon Ave. Designed edu/museum by this Atlanta architect in the Ital- 6. Jesse Draper House (1915)— ian villa style, it was built as his 779 Clifton Rd. Built for Draper, an personal residence. Note the orna- Atlanta insurance executive, this mental entrance gates. house was designed by Neel Reid in 3. “JaqueLand” (1920)—1815 S. the American-Georgian style. Ponce de Leon Ave. This large estate, 7. William R. Prescott House set well back from the street, was (1915)—799 Clifton Rd. This Ameri- built for Cator Woolford, cofounder can-Georgian–style house was of Retail Credit Company (now designed by Neel Reid for Prescott, Equifax). In 1955, the property was an Atlanta insurance executive. presented to the Cerebral Palsy 8. Glenwood (1917)—1632 Ponce de School and Clinic by the Buckhead Leon Ave. This English-Georgian–style Civitan Club. Major support for the house, built for James G. Dodson, 145 school came from the W. C. and sits behind formal entrance gates. Sarah Bradley Foundation. Today 9. Lullwater Estate Condominium the home serves as the Atlanta Hos- (1983)—1610 Ponce de Leon Ave. The pitality House, providing temporary centerpiece of this project is Rain- housing for out-of-town families bow Terrace (1923), the former home with loved ones in local hospitals. of Henry Heinz, vice president of 4. The Druid Hills Country Club C & S Bank and son-in-law of Asa (1912)—740 Clifton Rd. The private Candler. Heinz was murdered by a INTOWN burglar in the house in 1944. The style by Leila Ross Wilburn, Atlanta’s highly publicized crime went first female architect. unsolved for more than 10 years. 16. Powers Pace House (1911)— 10. Jacob O. Hirsch House (1922)— 858 Oakdale Rd. This frame house 822 Lullwater Rd. This Country Eng- built by Pace, an executive of Beck lish Manor house was used as the and Gregg Hardware, was the first family home in the award-winning house constructed on this street. film Driving Miss Daisy. 17. Sigmund Montag House 11. Lullwater Conservation Park (1915)—850 Oakdale Rd. This 17th- (1931)—Lullwater Rd. at The Byway. century French adaptation was A quiet spot in the woods for relax- designed by Neel Reid. It was origi- ation, the park was established by nally owned by Montag, president of the Lullwater Garden Club. the National Pencil Factory where 12. Geigerich House (1914)— his nephew, Leo Frank, worked. It is 901 Oakdale Rd. Originally built often referred to as “the original for an editor with the Sunny South Driving Miss Daisy house” because it Publishing Company, hugely popular once belonged to the grandmother during the late 19th and early 20th of Driving Miss Daisy playwright cen turies, the home was the resi- Alfred Uhry. dence of Asa Candler, Jr. while he 18. Warnock House (1929)—835 completed work on his nearby Oakdale Rd. Originally built for Dr. estate, Briarcliff. S. D. Warnock, a physician for the 13. Walter T. Downing House City Health Dept. In 1932 this house (1914)—893 Oakdale Rd. Architect was rented by the family of mobster Downing, who designed several Al Capone so they could visit him at churches and elegant houses in the the nearby federal penitentiary. city, built this brick Tudor Revival– 19. Charles Sheldon House style house for his own residence. (1910)—827 Oakdale Rd. Sheldon was 14. William J. Campbell House an Atlanta attorney and a delegate (1913)—888 Oakdale Rd. Campbell to the Versailles Conference, where commissioned Neel Reid to design he was a signer of the 1919 peace his house in the American-Georgian agreement formally ending World 146 style. Campbell died shortly after fin- War I. He later managed Franklin D. ishing the house, and it was sold to Roosevelt’s presidential campaign in Louis Elsas, vice president of the Ful- Georgia. FDR occasionally visited the ton Bag and Cotton Mill, in 1917. home when traveling to his cottage 15. Strickler House (c. 1914)— in Warm Springs. 871 Oakdale Rd. Dr. Cyrus W. Strick- 20. Benjamin D. Watkins House ler was a physician who served in (1911)—798 Oakdale Rd. This sand- the Emory Medical Unit in WWI. His stone brick home features the home was designed in the Prairie symmetry that is associated with Druid Hills

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Clyde King house

Adams-style architecture. It was built with ornate marble detailing was for Watkins, a salesman for Adair once the residence of Asa G. Can- Realty, and was later owned by dler, the founder of The Coca-Cola Samuel Candler Dobbs, president Company. of The Coca-Cola Company. 24. Elsas House (1913)—1241 Ponce 21. Clyde King House (1911)— de Leon Ave. This house was built 1386 Ponce de Leon Ave. This house for Jacob Elsas, founder of the Ful- was built for King, the president of ton Bag and Cotton Mill (see #4). King Plow Company. It has served For many years this was The Howard as the national headquarters of the School. Alpha Delta Pi sorority since 1955. Of 25. Boxwood (1914)—794 Spring- particular interest are the massive dale Rd. This was the home of Corinthian columns that frame the Charles Rainwater, who designed front entrance. the universally recognized Coca- 22. Stonehenge (1912)—1410 Ponce Cola bottle. de Leon Ave. Named by its original 26. Louis Regenstein House 148 owner, Samuel Venable, this granite (1917)—848 Springdale Rd. This Ital- house in the Gothic style is now part ian manor-style house was designed of St. John’s Lutheran Church. The by Neel Reid for the owner of Regen- stone for the house came from Stone stein’s clothing stores. Mountain, which was once owned 27. Rest Haven (1917)—940 Spring- by the Venable family. dale Rd. This sandstone brick home 23. St. John’s Melkite Catholic with a circular portico and large Church (1905)—1426 Ponce de Leon verandah was designed for William Ave. This sandstone brick structure Candler by Neel Reid. Druid Hills 28. Callanwolde (1920)—980 Bri- 32. Plaza Center (1939)— arcliff Rd. This house was designed 1037–61 Ponce de Leon Ave. This by Henry Hornbostel, architect for small commercial center was one of the early buildings at Emory Univer- the first shopping areas in Atlanta to sity, for Charles H. Candler, eldest offer off-street parking. It is notable son of Asa G. Candler. The younger for its streamlined Art Moderne Candler went on to chair the soft design. drink company and Emory Univer- 33. Druid Hills Baptist Church sity’s board of trustees. The neo- (1928)—1085 Ponce de Leon Ave. Cor- Tudor–style mansion is now owned ner of Ponce de Leon and Highland and operated by DeKalb County as Aves. This massive stone church, a fine arts center. Information: 404- built in the shape of an octagon, was 872-5338; www.callanwolde.org NR designed in the Beaux Arts style. 29. Atkins Park (1910)—St. Louis, 34. Golden Key National Honor St. Charles, and St. Augustine Pls. Society Headquarters (1922)— This planned self-contained streetcar 1189 Ponce de Leon Ave. This beauti- community was the vision of devel- fully restored house, built for Atlanta oper and patent medicine millionaire furniture company executive Carlos Edwin W. Grove. Another of his Mason, now is national headquar- notable projects is the Grove Park ters of this academic society that Inn in Asheville, N.C. NR was founded at Georgia State Uni- 30. The Colonnade Court Apart- versity in 1977. ments (1918)—734–46 N. Highland 35. Atlanta Boy Choir (1921)— Ave. Built as luxury apartments in 1215 S. Ponce de Leon Ave. Longtime Atkins Park, the complex has been headquarters of the acclaimed restored as a condominium and choral group, the facilities have been complements the adjacent Briarcliff expanded around a house built for building. NR Frank Lowenstein, president of Nor- 31. The Briarcliff (1925)—1050 Ponce ris Candy Company. de Leon Ave. Designed by G. Lloyd 36. Frank Adair House (1911)— Preacher and commissioned by Asa 1341 S. Ponce de Leon Ave. One of the Candler, the Briarcliff was planned as first homes in Atlanta designed by a luxury high-rise apartment building Neel Reid, this sandstone brick 149 to complement the Druid Hills resi- house is in the Georgian style. It was dential area. Candler retained a suite built for Adair, an executive with on the top floor and had the head- Adair Realty and son of Forrest quarters for his real estate company Adair, one of Druid Hills’ developers. there. After several years of vacant 37. Walter Rich House (1913)— deterioration, it was renovated and 1348 Fairview Rd. A French Manor– reopened in 1979 as a retirement home style house, it was designed by Neel for citizens on a limited income. NR Reid. Rich was a longtime president INTOWN

of Rich’s Department Store and a u Druid Hills Tour of Homes: nephew of store founder Morris Rich. The tour, held as part of the Dog- Through the family’s foundation, he wood Festival, opens to the public contributed funds to establish the many homes in Druid Hills. The school of business admini stration at event is held in late March or early Emory University. April; the exact date is determined in 38. Oscar Strauss House (1917)— January. Information: 404-524-TOUR; 1372 Fairview Rd. A rare Neel Reid www.druidhillstour.org design in the Tudor style, this house u Fernbank Fall Festival: October was built for Strauss, president of Capitol City Chain Company. NEARBY ATTRACTIONS 39. Neel Reid House (1914)— u Candler Park Golf Course 1426 Fairview Rd. Neel Reid’s neo- (public) Georgian–style personal residence is u Emory University marked by a Palladian window over u Fernbank Science and Nature the front entrance. Center 40. Paideia School (1509)— u Jimmy Carter Presidential S. Ponce de Leon Ave. This private Library and Museum school occupies several restored u Little Five Points shopping, period homes along S. Ponce de dining, and theater district Leon Ave. 41. Robert W. Woodruff House OTHER WALKS IN THE AREA (1920s)—1196 Springdale Rd. After #8 Inman Park moving from Inman Park, the long- #9 Freedom Park, Candler Park & time chairman of The Coca-Cola Little Five Points Company lived here before moving #10 Midtown to his Buckhead estate, Windcrofte, #15 Virginia-Highland & in 1948 (see #18). Morningside #17 Fernbank Forest SPECIAL FEATURES AND EVENTS #18 Emory University u Callanwolde Fine Arts Center: #39 Historic Decatur Classes, exhibitions, theatrical pro- 150 ductions, and other activities take place throughout the year. Of particular note is Christmas at Callan- wolde, held each year in late Novem- ber and early December. Hours: 9 AM–4 PM, Mon.–Sat. Information: 404-872-5338; www.callanwolde.org INTOWN C H A P T E R 1 7

ence center to Clifton Rd. with a cor- Fernbank responding ascent on the return loop. Several areas offer benches for Forest resting and enjoying the sights, sounds, and smells of the forest. A section of the trail near the entrance has been adapted as an “easy effort” trail for use by visitors who are visu- ally and mobility impaired.

DRIVING DIRECTIONS Travel from downtown via Ponce de Leon Ave., then north on Artwood Dr. and north on Heaton Park Dr. The Fernbank Science Cen- LOCATION ter Complex is on the left. The About 6 miles east of downtown. entrance to the Fernbank Natural The walk begins at the Fernbank For- History Museum is located just est entrance gate. north of Ponce de Leon Ave. on GPS: N33.46.696/W84.19.137 Clifton Rd. Travel I-75/85 south to North Ave. (exit 249C), then east to TRAIL DISTANCE Piedmont Ave., and north to Ponce The forest contains a 2-mile de Leon Ave. Or travel I-75/85 north marked trail with much of the to Linden Ave. (exit 249D), east to plant life identiﬁed. A walking map Piedmont Ave., and north to Ponce of the forest and seasonal interpre- de Leon Ave. tive guides are available at the visitor information desk in the science cen- Parking 151 ter. The trails cannot be accessed Ample parking is available on from the Natural History Museum Heaton Park Dr. adjacent to the sci- grounds. ence center. Parking for the museum is next to that building. TERRAIN Trails are wide and paved PUBLIC TRANSPORTATION throughout. The main trail There is regular bus service descends moderately from the sci- along North Decatur Rd. (#6 INTOWN

Fernbank Forest observation platform

Emory) operating between the unique jewel…a showpiece that no Inman Park/Reynoldstown and other American city can match.” Lindbergh rail stations. Exit the bus Researchers studying history and on Clifton Rd. and North Decatur. plant life have determined that no Walk east to Emory Dr. and turn one has ever farmed, logged, or in any south, continuing on Vickers Dr. way developed this property. After the street changes to Heaton Pioneer settlers James Crenshaw Park Dr., Fernbank Science Center and Stephen James acquired the will be on the right. The walk is property when DeKalb County was about one mile. MARTA: 404-848- created from lands ceded from the 5000; www.itsmarta.com Creek Indians in the early 1820s. James Calhoun, Atlanta’s Civil War BACKGROUND mayor, was a subsequent owner. 152 Fernbank Forest, owned by Fernbank, After two more changes in owner- Inc., is a 65-acre rarity in the Pied- ship, Col. Zadock Harrison pur- mont region of Georgia. Fernbank is chased the parcel in 1881 and built an old-growth forest (some wild oaks a home on Clifton Rd. along the for- are over 200 years old), a remarkable est’s edge. That’s when the woods treasure so near the center of a major became a magical place where his city. During a visit in 1949, Charles children could play. Russell of the American Museum of Preserving Fernbank by making it Natural History called the forest “a a nature reserve was the lifelong Fernbank Forest dream of one of his children, Emily DeKalb County Board of Commis- Harrison. When her father died in sioners and Fernbank, Inc. Three 1935, to maintain the forest’s years later, the science center building integrity and to avoid its subdivision, opened to the public. she bought out the land interests of Through the years, the center has the other heirs to his estate. “Miss continued to acquire land and Emily,” a teacher for many years at buildings, including several stately Druid Hills High School, devoted Druid Hills houses (see #14). Assis- much of her life to saving the forest tance from the Woodruff family and as an educational setting for future the Robert W. Woodruff Founda- generations, naming it for the tion, generous donations by former numerous ferns thriving in the forest. Atlanta Falcons football team owner With the help of Dr. Woolford B. Rankin Smith, and the help of many Baker, a friend and faculty member others contributed to its growth. at Emory University, she enlisted the Today, Fernbank is recognized as a support of many DeKalb County citi- major regional research and educa- zens to form Fernbank, Inc., which tional complex, housing an astro- raised funds to purchase additional nomical observatory with a radio land around the forest and establish telescope and the largest optical a ﬁnancial base for maintaining the telescope in the southeast, a plane- property. tarium with state-of-the-art projec- For some time the issues of how to tion equipment, a museum and use the land, keep it intact, and gener- exhibition hall, formal gardens ate funds for upkeep remained unre- and greenhouses, classrooms, and solved. Ideas for a park, a farm, and laboratories. even a petting zoo were considered In 1992, on property adjacent to but rejected by the Fernbank board. A the forest, the Fernbank Museum of proposal was offered to donate the Natural History opened. The largest land to Emory University, but that facility of its kind south of the Smith- also did not go through. Finally, in sonian Institution in Washington, the 1950s, several board members D.C., Fernbank features an IMAX approached the DeKalb County Theatre, a children’s Fantasy Forest, Board of Education with a proposal and the spectacular permanent 153 to construct a science center on a exhibit, A Walk Through Time in portion of land. School Superintend- Georgia. ent Jim Cherry embraced the concept, Science center exhibition hall hours: and through a mix of federal funds 8:30 AM–5 PM, Mon.; 8:30 AM– and donations, the center became a 10 PM, Tues.–Fri.; 10 AM–5 PM, Sat.; reality. The Fernbank Science Center 1 PM–5 PM, Sun. was created with the 1964 signing of Library hours: 8:30 AM–5 PM, the land lease agreement between the Mon. and Fri.; 8:30 AM–9 PM, Tues.–Thurs.; 10 AM–5 PM, Sat. INTOWN

Hodgson house

Observatory hours: 8 PM–10:30 NOTABLE PLACES PM, Thurs.–Fri.; closed in inclement 1. Exhibition Hall, Observa- weather tory, and Planetarium Forest hours: 2 PM–5 PM, Sun.– (1967)—156 Heaton Park Dr. This Fri.; 10 AM–5 PM, Sat. Contemporary-style stone structure Planetarium hours: 3 PM, Wed., has twin domes—one houses the Fri.–Sun.; 8 PM, Tues.–Fri.; 11 AM, optical telescopes and the other the Sat. Admission fee planetarium. The center was Greenhouse and Gardens hours: designed by the firm of Toombs, 1 PM–5 PM, Sun. Amisano, and Wells. Fernbank Museum of Natural His- 2. Dr. Fred Hodgson House tory hours: 9 AM–6 PM, Mon.–Sat.; (1916)—851 Clifton Rd. This former 12 PM–6 PM, Sun. Admission fee home houses the center’s archives Robert L. Staton Rose Garden and museum exhibit workshops. (adjacent to Natural History Museum) 3. Botanical Gardens and Green- hours: dawn to dark, daily house (established 1983)—765 Clifton Information: Science Center: 678- Rd. These are formal gardens with 874-7100; Natural History Museum: herbs, roses, and a variety of other 404-378-0127; www.fernbank.edu flowers. The garden is an official test 154 Annual memberships to the cen- garden for All-American roses. ter’s support group, Friends of Fern- 4. Huntemann Pond and Water- bank, are available and feature free shed Exhibit—Located on a side trail admission to all center facilities off the Forest Trail, this small pond (except the IMAX Theatre), dis- is named to honor Walter Hunte- counts on classes, advance notice of mann, Fernbank’s first forester. An upcoming events, and opportunities adjacent pavilion features an exhibit for volunteers. about the Peavine Creek Watershed.

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D HEATON PARK DR 1 R GPS: N 33. 46. 696 D W 84. 19. 137 OO RTW A 2 GPS: N 33. 46. 560 W 84. 19. 339 INTOWN 5. Fernbank Museum of Natural History (1992)—767 Clifton Rd. This 160,000-square-foot facility is a science buff’s and museum goer’s delight. The building houses both permanent and traveling exhibits, including the marvelous display Giants of the Mesozoic, featuring some of the largest dinosaurs that ever roamed the Earth. .

SPECIAL FEATURES AND EVENTS u Special exhibits: In addition to its permanent displays, the exhibition hall frequently presents special showings of artistic or scientiﬁc works. u Special planetarium presentations: To supplement its regular pro- gramming, the planetarium offers special holiday presentations at Christmas, Easter, and in conjunc- tion with signiﬁcant astronomical events. u Fernbank programs: Friends of Fernbank sponsors several programs during the year; including the Fall Festival in October.

NEARBY ATTRACTIONS u Callanwolde Fine Arts Center u Decatur shopping and dining 156 area u Emory University u Jimmy Carter Presidential Center

OTHER WALKS IN THE AREA #9 Freedom Park, Candler Park & Little Five Points #16 Druid Hills INTOWN C H A P T E R 1 8

DRIVING DIRECTIONS Emory From downtown Atlanta, travel Ponce de Leon Ave. east to University Clifton Rd., then north on Clifton Rd. to the campus; or I-85 to North Druid Hills Rd. (exit 89), then east to Briar- cliff Rd., south to Clifton Rd., then Clifton Rd. south to the campus.

Parking During the week, visitor parking is limited. The best options are the small lot behind the Boisfeuillet Jones Building, the Peavine Deck on Eagle Row, or the Fishburne Deck on Fishburne Dr. There are fees to park LOCATION Mon. through Fri. but the lots are About 6 miles from downtown in the usually free on weekends. Druid Hills area. The trail begins at the Administration Building on the PUBLIC TRANSPORTATION side of the Quadrangle which is the MARTA Bus service (#6 common green space. Emory) operates from the GPS: N33.47.422/W84.19.521 Edgewood/Candler Park and Lind- bergh rail stations. MARTA: 404- TRAIL DISTANCE 848-5000; www.itsmarta.com As shown, the trail is about 3.3 miles, but the campus is large BACKGROUND with much to explore. Nestled on 500 acres in the Druid 157 Hills section of Atlanta, Emory Uni- TERRAIN versity combines a pastoral setting Clifton Rd. runs along a for academic study with convenient ridgeline and the land access to downtown Atlanta. Named slopes southward away from the site. for Bishop John Emory, the college The rolling hills, shade trees, and was founded by the Methodist fairly extensive sidewalk system make Church in 1836 and was originally for easy walking. INTOWN located in the rural community of and land in newly developed Druid Oxford, Georgia. Today, Emory’s Hills. The offer was too good to two-year school, Oxford College, refuse, so the church accepted and occupies that campus. almost immediately began preparing Beginning with a class of about a the new site. dozen students, enrollment grew Prominent New York architect steadily until the Civil War, when stu- Henry Hornbostel, who later dents were called to Confederate designed Callanwolde for Asa Can- military service. The college closed dler’s eldest son Charles (see #12), from 1861 until the fall of 1866, when was commissioned to lay out the some of the staff and students finally campus and design its new build- returned. The school prospered ings. He chose to render them in the under the guidance of Bishop War- Italian Renaissance style, and ren A. Candler, its president from selected local building materials of 1888 to 1898. Bishop Candler helped Georgia marble for the exteriors and gain financial assistance for the red clay tile for the roofs. Many later school from his brother, Asa G. Can- buildings were patterned after Horn- dler, founder of The Coca-Cola bostel’s designs, lending a thread of Company. Their efforts fostered the continuity to the growing diversity in long-standing relationship between the campus architecture. Nearly all Emory University and Coca-Cola. the original buildings remain in use Today the strength of this associa- today and form the nucleus of the tion may be seen in the many cam- Emory University Historic District, pus buildings named to honor the which is listed on the National Regis- soft-drink company’s controlling ter of Historic Places. The first build- families, the Candlers and the ing completed on the new campus Woodruffs. For students, the bene- was the Candler School of Theology, fits of this relationship were once named in honor of Bishop Candler. expressed in this saying: “A Coke a The Lamar School of Law followed day keeps chalk in the tray!” shortly afterward. Both were opened In 1914, the Methodist Church to students in 1916. The first medical proposed to transform Emory Col- school buildings—the Scott Anatomy 158 lege in Oxford from a small, rural and the Fishburne Physiology facili- college into a preeminent academic ties—opened the next year. World institution. New locations in Geor- War I postponed further work, but gia, Texas, and elsewhere were con- the new college finally opened in the sidered for the future campus. Asa fall of 1919 with an enrollment of 958 Candler influenced the church’s students. In the midst of the reloca- choice to relocate the school to tion to Atlanta, the college was re- Atlanta by pledging 1 million dollars chartered as an expression of the Emory University

Haygood Hopkins Gate school’s broadened purpose and In more recent years, O. Wayne long-range goal of offering complete Rollins, chairman of Rollins, Inc., undergraduate and graduate pro- has made significant contributions, grams in many fields of study. It including funds to construct the O. became Emory University. Wayne Rollins Research Center of In 1947, to honor his forebears the Health Sciences and the Grace who founded Rich’s Department Crum Rollins Building, home to the Stores, Walter Rich provided funds university’s Rollins School of Public to construct the Rich Building for Health. Beginning in the early 2000s, the School of Business Administra- Emory was nationally recognized for tion. In the 1990s, through a gener- its commitment to environmentally ous gift from Coca-Cola chairman friendly construction, and new cam- Roberto Goizueta, the business pus buildings are LEED Certified 159 school was greatly expanded and “green buildings.” named in his honor. The Woodruff Today, Emory has grown far family, successors to the Candlers at beyond the vision of its founders to the helm of The Coca-Cola Com- become a nationally prominent uni- pany, on numerous occasions made versity. Its association with the enormous financial contributions for Carter Presidential Center has gar- academic buildings, libraries, nered it international recognition. research facilities, and a gymnasium. From athletic events and theatrical INTOWN productions to poetry readings, lec- iron archway is the entrance to the tures, and self-enrichment courses, campus. Emory’s impact reaches beyond the 4. Emory Village—N. Decatur Rd. campus and serves as an integral at Oxford Dr. Filled with an array of part of Atlanta’s cultural life. Many stores and restaurants, the Village is programs and events are free or very a gathering place for neighborhood reasonably priced and open to the residents, faculty, and students. public. Campus information: 404-727- 5. Glenn Memorial Methodist 6123; www.emory.edu Church (1931)—Mizell Dr. Established in 1920 as Emory University Metho - HISTORICAL MARKERS dist Church, the congregation was 1. Site of Judge James Paden renamed Glenn Memorial in 1930 to House; Gen. J. D. Cox’s honor Wilbur F. Glenn (Emory class Headquarters—N. Decatur of 1861), a prominent Methodist cler- Rd. at Clifton Rd. gyman and chaplain in the Confeder- 2. Lullwater—Clifton Rd. at ate army. The sanctuary, designed by entrance to Lullwater Estate Philip T. Shutze, opened for worship in 1931 and is also used for campus NOTABLE SITES AND BUILDINGS programs and musical performances. 1. The Administration Build- 6. Rich Building (1947)—Mizell Dr. ing (1955)—Quadrangle. This For many years this Philip Shutze- building houses the offices of the designed building housed the School university’s president and other sen- of Business Administration, which is ior officials. It was designed by the now located in the Goizueta Build- firm of Ivey and Crook to comple- ing. It was named in honor of Mor- ment the original Hornbostel style. ris, Daniel, and Emmanuel Rich, 2. Boisfeuillet Jones Center (1986) who founded Rich’s Department —1390 Oxford Rd. This facility, styled Stores. Across the bridge from the after the original campus buildings, Rich Building is Baker Woodland, provides expanded administrative named for longtime professor of space. The Jones Center also houses biology Dr. Woolford B. Baker. A the office of admissions and the site-oriented sculpture designed by 160 bursar. The building honors Boisfeuil- George Trakas and Catherine let Jones, longtime director of the Howett meanders through the Woodruff Foundation, and an advisor ravine. on health affairs to Presidents John F. 7. Henry Bowden Hall (1951)— Kennedy and Lyndon Johnson. A new Quadrangle. This classroom build- campus bookstore and meeting facil- ing, housing the history department, ity opened in 2010 behind the Center. is dedicated to alumnus (class of 3. The Haygood-Hopkins Memo- 1934) and longtime board chairman rial Gateway (1937)—Mizell Dr. This Henry Bowden. Emory University

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8. Michael C. Carlos Museum of 11. Cannon Chapel (1981)—Quad- Emory University (1916, renovated rangle behind the Theology Building. 1985, expanded 1992–93)—Quadran- Named for Bishop William R. Can- gle. Originally housed in the Horn- non, this strikingly contemporary bostel-designed law school building, facility was designed by Paul the museum’s main exhibit galleries Rudolph. It provides space for wor- relocated to new and expanded facil- ship, religious education programs, ities in 1993. The museum’s design is seminars, and workshops. The chapel the work of Michael Graves. Hours: also is used extensively for religious 10 AM–5 PM, Tue, Wed, Fri, Sat; and secular musical performances. 10 AM–9 PM , Thur.; 12 PM–5 PM, 12. Callaway Memorial Center Sun. Information: 404-727-4282; www. (1919, renovated 1996)—Quadrangle. carlos.emory.edu This complex includes the original 9. Goodrich C. White Hall (1977)— Physics and Psychology Buildings. It Quadrangle. Named in honor of a was renovated and modernized with university president (1942–57), White funds donated by golf club manufac- Hall is a modern, low-profile struc- turer and alumnus Ely Callaway. ture. Its construction marked a radi- Today it houses the Humanities, Eng- 162 cal departure from the traditional lish, Religion, and Foreign Languages architecture of the Quadrangle. departments, as well as the Institute 10. Pitts Theological Library (1916, of Women’s Studies and The Gradu- renovated 1976)—Quadrangle. Built ate Institute of Liberal Arts. as the Candler School of Theology, 13. Asa Griggs Candler Library this is one of the original Hornbostel (1926, renovated 2003)—Quadrangle. buildings. It now houses the second- Designed by Ivey and Crook, this was largest theological library in North the main campus library until 1969. America. It now houses the Multimedia Cen- Emory University ter, the Center for African American MacMillan Law Library (1996). Studies (including the Dr. Martin 17. Donna and Marvin Schwartz Luther King, Jr. Papers Project), Center for the Performing Arts Asian Studies, and the Music and (2003)—Clifton Rd. and North Media Library. Decatur Rd. This 90,000-square- 14. Robert W. Woodruff Library foot building offers a world-class for Advanced Studies (1969, concert hall, theater, and dance expanded 1997)—Asbury Dr. just off studio in a state-of-the-art facility. the Quadrangle. This is the main The Italianate-style building was campus library. It also contains the designed by Boston architect Schatten Art Gallery and the Special Michael Dennis. Event Information: Collections area on the top floor, 404-727-5050; www.arts.emory.edu which features historical manuscripts, 18. Florence Candler Harris Hall documents, and memorabilia. Infor- (1929)—Clifton Rd. adjacent to hos- mation: Gallery: 404-727-6861; Special pital. Designed by Philip T. Shutze Collections: 404-727-6887 and originally the home for nurses 15. Roberto Goizueta School of working at Emory Hospital, the Business Administration (1997)— building is now a residence hall for Fishburne Dr. at Clifton Rd. This undergraduate women. modern classroom and conference 19. Emory Clinic (1956, numerous facility is named to honor the late additions)—1365 Clifton Rd. These CEO of The Coca-Cola Company. buildings house offices of physicians An original trading post from the and surgeons who are full-time fac- New York Stock Exchange is on the ulty of the Emory University School ground floor adjacent to Jenkins of Medicine and partners in the Commons. Emory Clinic. The original building is 16. Gambrell Hall (1972)—Clifton named to honor Dr. G. Elliott Scar- Rd. at N. Decatur Rd. This massive borough, first director of the Win- blue-slate and marble structure was ship Cancer Institute and a founding designed to reflect, in the words member of the Emory Clinic. of its architects Preston S. Stevens, 20. Emory University Hospital Sr. and James R. Wilkinson, “the (1922, numerous expansions)— strength and stability of the law.” 1364 Clifton Rd. Originally known as 163 It is home to the Lamar School of Wesley Memorial Hospital, Emory Law, named for Judge Lucius Quin- Hospital moved to this location tus Cincinnatus Lamar (class of from Auburn Ave. and became a 1845), Secretary of the Interior under major teaching and referral center. Pres. Grover Cleveland and later an The original building, designed to associate justice of the United States complement the style of Horn- Supreme Court. Adjacent to the bostel’s classroom buildings, is the classroom building is the Hugh E. work of Neel Reid. The ornate INTOWN Whitehead Memo- structure houses rial Building, fac- the offices of the ing Clifton Rd., senior officials of was designed by the Health Sci- Philip Shutze and ences Center as completed in 1945. well as classroom Of particular and auditorium interest is the intri- spaces. The design cately carved is by Heery and wood in the Heery, an interna- Whitehead Memo- tional firm based rial Room on the in Atlanta. first floor. 24. Lullwater 21. School of Estate (1925)— Medicine (1917, Clifton Rd. This numerous addi- Tudor Revival– tions and renova- style house, tions)—Clifton Rd. designed by Ivey at Pierce Dr. Two Pitts Theological Library and Crook for of the original Walter T. Candler campus struc- on 185 landscaped tures, the Anatomy and Physiology acres, is reminiscent of an English Buildings, are in this complex. The 2 country house. Acquired by the uni- buildings were connected by con- versity in 1958, it has been the univer- struction of the imposing James B. sity president’s residence since 1963. Williams Building in 2006. The grounds and 12-acre lake are a 22. Children’s Healthcare of gathering place for faculty and stu- Atlanta at Egleston (1959, expanded dents. The house and grounds are 1991, 1995, 2007)—1405 Clifton Rd. occasionally opened to the public Named in memory of businessman during the annual Druid Hills Tour Thomas Egleston’s mother, Henri- of Homes. etta, the original hospital was con- 25. Emory University School of 164 structed near downtown Atlanta in Medicine Library (1969)—Clifton Rd. 1928. Today the hospital is part of at Gatewood Dr. Constructed to Children’s Healthcare of Atlanta and house the School of Dentistry, the a teaching arm of the Emory Univer- building was converted to the library sity School of Medicine. following closure of the dental 23. Robert W. Woodruff Health school in 1992. Sciences Center Administration 26. O. Wayne Rollins Research Building (1976)—Clifton Rd. at Center (1989)—Clifton Rd. across Asbury Dr. This modern, angular from Gatewood Rd. Constructed Emory University with funds donated by O. Wayne Munroe Theater, and the Harland Rollins, this facility provides labora- Cinema. The original Alumni Memo- tory and research facilities for the life rial Building was the work of Ivey sciences, and was designed by Rosser and Crook; the addition is by John Fabrap International. Portman. 27. Grace Crum Rollins Building 32. Alabama Hall (1919)—Pierce (1993)—Clifton Rd. at Gatewood Dr. at Asbury Dr. This is one of the Rd. Named to honor the wife of O. earliest residence halls on campus. Wayne Rollins, the 8-story building 33. Harvey Cox Hall (1960, reno- houses the university’s School of vated 1993)—Asbury Dr. Named for Public Health. a university president (1918–42), this 28. Nell Hodgson Woodruff building houses a fast-food court, School of Nursing (2000)—Clifton banquet facilities, and meeting Rd. at Gatewood Rd. Designed in a rooms. The clock tower at Cox Hall style reminiscent of the original is a campus landmark. Henry Hornbostel buildings, this 34. Dooley Statue (2008)—Dickey modern building houses the univer- Dr. at Asbury Cir. This whimsical sity’s nursing school. It was named statue of a skeleton embodies this to honor Nell Hodgson Woodruff, longtime Emory “spirit.” wife of longtime Coca-Cola chair- 35. Dobbs Hall (1917)—Asbury man Robert Woodruff. Dr. at Pierce Dr. The first residence 29. Whitehead Memorial Bio- hall constructed on campus is medical Research Building (2001)— notable for its marble entrance 615 Michael St. One of the largest and lobby area. buildings on campus, this facility 36. The George Woodruff houses medical school classrooms Physical Education Center (1983)— and scientific laboratories. Fraternity Row and Asbury Dr. 30. Emory Railroad Depot This multipurpose center, designed (1916)—Asbury Dr. at Means Dr. This by John Portman, provides athletic depot was for many years the pas- and recreational facilities senger and freight terminal for the for students, faculty, and staff. The university, where students arrived center is also home to 13 of Emory’s and departed. It now houses a 16 varsity teams, including swim- 165 casual campus restaurant. ming, soccer, track, women’s volley- 31. R. Howard Dobbs University ball, tennis, and basketball. Alumni, Center (1950; extensively remodeled staff, and faculty of Emory and and expanded in 1986)—Asbury Dr. Emory affiliates may purchase at Pierce Dr. This building houses the annual memberships. Visitors must cafeteria, lounges, post office, meet- be accompanied by a member. ing rooms, an office of the Emory 37. Fraternity Houses and Soror- Alliance Credit Union, the Mary Gray ity Lodges (1929–2005)—Eagle Row. INTOWN Several original fraternity houses agency with headquarters outside of date to the 1930s; sorority lodges Washington, D.C., the CDC focuses were added in 2005. The Kappa on disease prevention and control, Alpha (KA) Fraternity House was environmental health, safety, and designed by Philip T. Shutze. health education. 38. Chappell Park (1994)—Eagle 44. Emory Conference Center Row and Peavine Creek Dr. This ath- (1995)—1615 Clifton Rd. This meeting letic complex, a gift from alumnus facility and hotel, designed in a Robert Chappell, is home to the var- style inspired by Frank Lloyd Wright, sity baseball team. is set in a deeply wooded setting. 39. Cooper Field (1999)—Eagle The center has earned numerous Row. The field, named to honor design and environmental awards. longtime physical education coach Information: 404-712-6000; and teacher George “Coach” www.emoryconferencecenter.com Cooper, is home to the varsity soft- 45. Houston Mill House (1924)— ball team. 849 Houston Mill Rd. This fieldstone 40. Sanford S. Atwood Chemistry house was built by Harry J. Carr on Building (1974)—1515 Dickey Dr. what was once the estate of Maj. Named for a university president Washington Jackson Houston. The (1962–77), this modern facility pro- Houston family operated a gristmill vides classroom and laboratory on nearby Peachtree Creek. The mill space for the chemistry program. was later converted to hydroelectric 41. Cherry L. Emerson Center power and provided the first electric- (2001)—1521 Dickey Dr. A gift from ity in DeKalb County. Acquired by alumnus Cherry L. Emerson, the Emory University in 1960, the house building houses scientific computing is a special events facility. facilities supporting many research 46. Miller-Ward Alumni House programs. (1999)—815 Houston Mill Rd. 42. Candler School of Theology Designed in the Tudor-Gothic style, (2008)—1530 Dickey Dr. This state- the building holds alumni associa- of-the-art classroom building offers tion offices, meeting rooms, and classrooms and faculty space for the special event facilities. 166 School of Theology. It is also home 47. Hahn Woods (1995)—Houston to the Emory University Center of Mill Rd. across from the Houston Ethics, providing academic programs Mill House. Georgia-Pacific Corpo- and consultation services on ethical ration has set aside this 4.7-acre issues within the university and tract along Peachtree Creek as a throughout the wider community. teaching forest to honor retired CEO 43. The Centers for Disease and former Emory trustee T. Mar- Control and Prevention (1960)— shall Hahn, Jr. Short nature trails 1600 Clifton Rd. The only federal crisscross the woodland. Visitors Emory University must be accompanied by a member dents and their families but open to of the Emory faculty, staff, or stu- the public, are conducted by the dent body. Office of Admissions at various times during the week. Information: 404- SPECIAL FEATURES AND EVENTS 727-6036. u Programs and performances: u Schwartz Center: Events The university hosts numerous spe- include dramatic productions, con- cial programs throughout the year, certs, dance recitals, and more. including musical performances, the- Information: 404-727-5050; www.arts. ater productions, poetry readings, emory.edu debates, exhibitions, workshops, athletic contests, films, and more. Most NEARBY ATTRACTIONS programs are open to the public. u Fernbank Museum of Natural Information: 404-727-6216. History u Carlos Museum Exhibitions u Fernbank Science Center and Programs: Permanent and traveling exhibitions, gallery talks, and OTHER WALKS IN THE AREA more. 404-727-4282; www.carlos. #9 Freedom Park, Candler Park & emory.edu Little Five Points u Center for Lifelong Learning: #15 Virginia-Highland & The university offers a variety of self- Morningside enrichment and noncredit adult edu- #16 Druid Hills cation classes through this series #17 Fernbank Forest of programs. #39 Historic Decatur u Dooley’s Week: A week full of festivities includes skits presented at the fraternity houses. It is held each spring to wind up the academic year. The mischievous mascot is a skeleton named Dooley. A student, whose identity is secret, presides over the week’s activities. Dooley has been a fixture on the Emory campus for more 167 than three-quarters of a century. u Festival of Nine Lessons and Carols: A traditional Christmas music program held during the holiday season in Glenn Memorial Church and Cannon Chapel. u Guided tours of the campus, given primarily for prospective stu- INTOWN C H A P T E R 1 9

DRIVING DIRECTIONS Tanyard Creek Travel north on I-75 to North- side Dr. (exit 252), then north on Park & Northside Dr. about 0.5 mile, and east on Collier Rd.; or north on Peachtree Brookwood Rd., then west on Collier Rd. Hills Parking There is a small parking lot at Tan- yard Creek Park, and street parking is allowed along side streets off Col- lier Rd.

PUBLIC TRANSPORTATION Regular MARTA bus service runs along Peachtree St. LOCATION (#110 Peachtree) and Howell Mill Rd. About 5 miles north of downtown. (#12 Howell Mill). The buses serve The walk begins by the historical the Arts Center, Lenox Square, markers in Tanyard Creek Park on Midtown, and Five Points rail sta- Collier Rd. tions. MARTA: 404-848-5000; GPS: N33.48.633/W84.24.184 www.itsmarta.com

TRAIL DISTANCE BACKGROUND The loop through the battle- For casual visitors, this walk offers a ﬁeld area and Brookwood pleasant loop around the Collier Hills is about 5.7 miles. Hills neighborhood and past the 168 estates of nearby Brookwood Hills. TERRAIN For Civil War buffs, the area offers Tanyard Creek Park rests in much more, because the route of a valley between parallel this trail covers truly historic ground. ridges along Peachtree and Howell On July 20, 1864, at the Tanyard Mill Rds. Brookwood Hills is on the Branch of Peachtree Creek adjacent eastern slope of the Peachtree ridge. to Andrew Jackson Collier’s Mill, The entire area has an abundance of Union troops—fresh from crossing the shade trees and rolling hills. creek the previous day—clashed with Tanyard Creek Park & Brookwood Hills

Battle of Peachtree Creek Memorial

Confederate Gen. John B. Hood’s To their left, Gen. William H. T. determined defenders. The enemies Walker’s Confederates hit Newton’s faced each other on a line stretching flank astride Peachtree Rd. from the Chattahoochee River to Newton’s line briefly faltered, present-day Virginia-Highland. and Gen. George Maney’s Rebels Three days before, Hood had attempted to breach the line between assumed command of the Rebel army Newton and Gen. John Geary, whose when Gen. Joseph E. Johnston was men held positions along Collier Rd. relieved of duty by Confederate Presi- Seeing the weakness from his posi- dent Jefferson Davis. Federal com- tion near the present-day Peachtree mander Gen. William T. Sherman Battle Shopping Center, Union Maj. learned from his subordinates that Gen. George Thomas dispatched Hood was an aggressive officer and Gen. William T. Ward’s men to rein- would go on the offensive against the force the tenuous line. Union army. Early on the morning of To the west, Rebel troops under the 20th, Hood’s troops detected a the command of Gens. William W. 169 gap in the Federal line, but inexplica- Loring and Edward C. Walthall ble delays postponed an attack until pressed the attack against Geary and mid-afternoon. When finally ready, Ward. A massed assault drove Geary’s Rebel troops commanded by Gen. men from the high ground near William Bate charged through dense Northside Dr., pushing them back woods near Clear Creek (across pres- to the present site of the Bitsy Grant ent-day Brighton Rd.) and attacked Tennis Center. This success was short- Union Gen. John Newton’s division. lived, as the Union reinforcements INTOWN drove the Rebels back on a murder- dation trail south of Ardmore Park ous retreat through a deep ravine. that will be part of the evolving Belt- For more than two hours, the line Project. fighting—at times hand to hand— The significance of Brookwood raged around Collier’s Mill. By night- Hills has been recognized by its fall, a badly beaten Hood withdrew placement on the National Register his troops from the field. As a foot- of Historic Places. note to history, one of the Union officers engaged in the heavy fighting HISTORICAL MARKERS around the mill was Col. Benjamin 1. Multiple Markers—Tanyard Harrison, who would become the Creek Park 23rd President of the United States in 2. O’Neal’s Brigade at the 1888. The many historical markers Ravine—Northside Dr. at Overbrook throughout the area provide details Dr. of this important battle. 3. Williams’ Division Deployed— The area remained primarily rural Northside Dr. at entrance to Bitsy following the Civil War until the Grant Tennis Center turn of the century. At that time, 4. Maj. William C. Preston, CSA— prompted by the growing popularity Howell Mill Rd. opposite Norfleet of the automobile, increasing resi- Dr. intersection dential development along Peachtree 5. Reynolds’ Brigade at the St. led to the establishment of com- Ravine—Springlake Dr. at Ellsworth muter neighborhoods. The first Dr. subdivision of this type was Ansley 6. Geary’s Division—Collier Rd. Park (see #14), and Brookwood Hills at Walthall Dr. soon followed. 7. On Geary’s Front—Collier Rd. The neighborhood was the vision at Walthall Dr. of developer B. F. Burdette, who 8. Scott’s Brigade—Collier Rd. at planned a self-contained community Tanyard Creek Park complete with its own commercial 9. Collier’s Mill—Collier Rd. at district (on Peachtree St. between Redland Rd. Brighton and Palisades Rds.), tennis 10. Harrison’s Brigade—Collier 170 courts, swimming pool, and picnic Rd. at Redland Rd. spaces. The development was laid 11. Gap in the Federal Line— out and constructed during the boom 423 Collier Rd. years after World War I. Today, tow- 12. Featherston’s Brigade—Collier ering shade trees, lush foliage, and Rd. west of the RR bridge plentiful sidewalks, together with the 13. Coburn’s Brigade—Collier Rd. fine homes, create an air of stability west of the RR bridge and permanence. A recent addition 14. The Mississippi Brigade— to the neighborhood is a PATH Foun- Collier Rd. east of the RR bridge

Tanyard Creek Park & Brookwood Hills

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W 84. 24. 184 N INTOWN 15. Wood’s Brigade—Collier Rd. 31. Wood’s and Newton’s Divi- east of the railroad bridge sions At Peachtree Creek—Peachtree 16. Old Montgomery Ferry Rd.— Rd. at Fairhaven Cir. 28th St. at Wycliff Rd. 32. Wood’s Division at Peachtree 17. Crossing of “Echota” and Creek—Peachtree Rd. at Fairhaven “Peachtree” Indian Trails—Palisades Cir. Rd. at Peachtree Rd. 18. Battlefield of Peachtree NOTABLE PLACES Creek—Palisades Rd. at Peachtree Most houses in the Collier Rd. Hills neighborhood are typi- 19. Hardee’s Attack—Peachtree cal of residential styles popular in Rd. at Palisades Rd. the late 1940s and 1950s. 20. Hardee at Peachtree Creek— 1. Tanyard Creek Park—Collier Peachtree Rd. at Brighton Rd. Rd. at Overbrook Dr. This 14-acre 21. Newton’s Division—Peachtree park provides a large greenspace for Rd. at Brighton Rd. recreation as well as preserving the 22. Memorial to the Participants site of bitter fighting during the Bat- In The Battle Of Peachtree Creek— tle of Peachtree Creek on July 20, atop a small hill in front of Piedmont 1864. Historical markers in and Hospital on Peachtree Rd. around the park attest to its signifi- 23. Site of E. P. Howell’s Artillery cance. Battery (CSA) During the Battle 2. Bryan M. “Bitsy” Grant Tennis of Peachtree Creek—in front of Center (1953)—2125 Northside Dr. the Sheffield Building at 1938 Peach - Named for a local tennis champion, tree Rd. this is one of Atlanta’s largest public 24. 33rd New Jersey State Flag— tennis facilities. It is also listed opposite 1922 Walthall Dr. among the nation’s best public ten- 25. Ward’s Division Deployed— nis centers. Information: 404-609- Bobby Jones Golf Course at Colonial 7195; www.bitsytennis.com Homes Dr. 3. The Ravine (1860s)—Northside 26. Geary’s Refused Line—North- Dr. between Springlake and Norfleet side Dr. at Collier Rd. Drs. This deep ravine was a focal 172 27. O’Neal’s Brigade—Northside point of the fighting during the Bat- Dr. at Collier Rd. tle of Peachtree Creek. Confederates, 28. Right of the 20th A. C. Line— charging northeast from Howell Mill 2191 Howell Mill Rd. Rd., were pinned down in the ravine 29. The Hiram Embry Plantation— by Union defenders in the hills north Channing Dr. at Howell Mill Rd. of the woods. The stately neighbor- 30. Mt. Zion Church—in front of hood of Brookwood Hills, with its Northside Park Baptist Church on shaded, winding streets and finely Howell Mill Rd. at I-75 Tanyard Creek Park & Brookwood Hills

Ardmore Park crafted houses, is situated on land 8. Brookwood Hills Recreational that once belonged to Andrew Jack- Complex (1920s)—Wakefield Dr. at son Collier, who, along with his Huntington Rd. Once the site of a brothers George, John, and Wesley, natural spring, Burdette included this once owned nearly all of the land recreation area in his master plan for along Peachtree Rd. between Ansley the neighborhood to make it more Park and Buckhead. appealing to prospective homeown- 4. Springlake Park (1950s)— ers—an idea that predates today’s Ellsworth Dr. This small pocket park popular swim–tennis communities. features children’s playscapes. This is a private recreation area. 5. Ardmore Park (1947)—west side 9. Harsh House (1940)—57 Cam- of Ardmore Rd. A pleasant green- den Rd. This cozy, shingled cottage space, the park features playscapes was designed by Ivey and Crook for and picnic areas. The PATH Trail fol- Wendell Harsh. lows along the Tanyard Branch of 10. Parker House (1928)— Peachtree Creek to residential areas 61 Brighton Rd. Designed by Ivey to the south. and Crook for William A. Parker, Jr., 6. The Logan Clarke House this Georgian-style residence was (1922)—14 Palisades Rd. This Ameri- featured in William Mitchell’s book, can Georgian–style house, built for Classic Atlanta. 173 Clarke, a businessman, was one of 11. Brookwood Hills Commercial the first houses in Brookwood Hills. District (1920s)—Brighton Rd. to Pal- The design is attributed to Neel Reid. isades Rd. This row of single-story 7. Moore House (1923)—34 Pal- buildings was developed by Burdette isades Rd. Built for Mrs. John Moore, as part of his vision for a self-sup- this brick, Georgian-style house porting community. It has expanded was designed by Edmund Ivey and over the years and contains upscale Lewis Crook. cafés, shops, and restaurants. INTOWN 12. Piedmont Hospital (1950s)— 1968 Peachtree Rd. Founded in 1908 by Dr. Floyd McRae and originally located near Turner Field, this large, nonprofit hospital relocated to this site in the mid-1950s. The sprawling complex has undergone numerous expansions.

SPECIAL FEATURES AND EVENTS u Nearby Bobby Jones Golf Course and Bitsy Grant Tennis Center are open to the public. Bitsy Grant hosts local and regional tennis tournaments each year. Information: 404-609-7193 u The Peachtree Road Race course passes the Brookwood Hills neighborhood. Sponsored by the Atlanta Track Club, the race is held each July 4 and attracts more than 60,000 runners.

NEARBY ATTRACTIONS u Ardmore Park u Howell Mill Village Shopping Center u Peachtree Battle Shopping Center

OTHER WALKS IN THE AREA #14 Ansley Park 174 #20 Peachtree Battle Avenue & Atlanta Memorial Park #21 Garden Hills INTOWN C H A P T E R 2 0

abundance of shade trees, and some Peachtree streets have good sidewalks.

Battle Avenue DRIVING DIRECTIONS Travel north on Peachtree Rd. & Atlanta or Northside Dr. to their intersections with Peachtree Battle Ave.; or Memorial Park travel I-75 to Northside Dr. (exit 252), then north to Peachtree Battle Ave.

Parking Street parking is available throughout most of the area.

PUBLIC TRANSPORTATION Regular MARTA bus routes follow Peachtree Rd. (#110 LOCATION Peachtree) and serve the Five Points, About 5 miles north of downtown. Arts Center, and Lenox Square rail The walk begins in Atlanta Memorial stations; and Howell Mill Rd. (#12 Park at Northside Dr. Howell Mill) originating at the Mid- GPS: N33.49.136/W84.24.548 town station. MARTA: 404-848- 5000; www.itsmarta.com TRAIL DISTANCE The complete loop is about 6 BACKGROUND miles. The loop around Peachtree Battle Ave., with its park- Atlanta Memorial Park is 2 miles. like islands separating the eastbound and westbound lanes, is a grand 175 TERRAIN avenue in the European style. The Peachtree Rd. and Howell walk down Peachtree Battle Ave. Mill Rd. follow the ridge- and around Atlanta Memorial Park lines, while Peachtree Battle Ave. and encompasses an area rich in scenic Woodward Way slope down to the beauty, history, and recreational creek bottom. The park area around opportunities. The elegant houses Peachtree Creek is predominantly nestled along the ridges, hillsides, ﬂat. The area is blessed with an and creek bottoms, many resting INTOWN

Bobby Jones Golf Club clubhouse

under stately oaks and evergreens, to be known as “hookers.” create a beautiful setting. Whatever plans Confederate Gen. This peaceful atmosphere is a far Joseph E. Johnston might have had cry from the scene that occurred to repulse the invaders may never be here in the oppressive heat of July known, because he was relieved of 1864. The historical markers that dot command that night and replaced the area trace the movements of the by the brash and aggressive Gen. Union and Confederate armies as John B. Hood. On assuming control, they prepared for battle. On July 19, Hood immediately planned an two divisions—Gen. John Geary’s attack for the next day against the and Gen. Alpheus Williams’s of Gen. Union positions. The battle began in Joseph “Fighting Joe” Hooker’s 20th present-day Brookwood Hills and Corps of the Union Army of the reached its zenith a short distance Ohio—crossed Peachtree Creek on west near the site of Collier’s Mill. improvised bridges near the present (See #15.) Now commonly known as 176 site of the Northside Dr. and Howell the Battle of Peachtree Creek, the Mill Rd. bridges. The crossing was clash pitted opposing armies on a uncontested and allowed the Feder- front that stretched from Bolton Rd. als to establish a strong foothold on in the west to Virginia-Highland in the high ground south of the creek. the east. Casualties numbered in Author’s note: Hooker was one of the thousands. the few military officers who permitted Today this area contains a variety female camp followers to travel with his of recreational activities. Along troops. Over time, these women came Woodward Way is Bobby Jones Peachtree Battle Avenue & Atlanta Memorial Park

Atlanta Memorial Park

Municipal Golf Course. Just south of streets ideally suited to well-to-do the golf course on Northside Dr. is families who owned motorcars. Bitsy Grant Tennis Center. Across Important architectural firms— Northside Dr. from the golf course is Hentz, Reid, Adler, and Shutze as Atlanta Memorial Park. Bordered on well as Pringle and Smith—designed the north by Peachtree Creek and on some of the estate houses found the south by Wesley Dr., the park in the community, which stretches was a 1929 gift to the city by former from Peachtree Battle Ave. on the U.S. Sen. Hoke Smith, J. W. Bedell, south to Cherokee Rd. on the north. and the Howell family. Development Peach tree Heights is a National His- began in 1933 to commemorate toric District. Georgia’s Bicentennial. It is a gather- To the west of Peachtree Heights ing place for strollers, joggers, youth (Dellwood Dr. is its informal bound- soccer teams, and occasional cro- ary) is the subdivision of Haynes quet players. The park contains pic- Manor, which was developed in the nic areas and a playground. late 1920s. The land was owned by 177 Residential development along jeweler Eugene V. Haynes, who cre- Peachtree Battle Ave. began in 1911 ated the neighborhood by subdivid- with the architectural and landscape ing his own estate, Haynes Manor. design for a community called Every effort was made to design and Peach tree Heights, developed by build homes that complemented the Eretus Rivers. Like Ansley Park and style of adjacent Peachtree Heights. Brookwood Hills, Peachtree Heights Landscaping of the median parks featured broad avenues and winding between Peachtree Rd. and Haber- INTOWN sham Rd. was carried out by the villa, this was jeweler Eugene Haynes’ Habersham Garden Club in the 1930s. residence. This walk is enjoyable at any time 2. Bellemonde (1920s)—315 Peach - of year, but the colors of the leaves tree Battle Ave. This brick and and flowers are at their best in Octo- painted-stone house, with its large, ber and April. One special attraction semicircular windows and doors, is a ginkgo tree located in the small displays characteristics of the park across from E. Rivers Elemen- Roman esque Revival style. French tary School (at the intersection of for “beautiful world,” Bellemonde Peachtree Battle Ave. and Peachtree was the longtime home of Macy’s Rd.). People come from all over the executive Raymond Kline. city each fall to view and photograph 3. Lodge at E. Rivers (1910)—This the tree’s bright golden foliage. small structure across from E. Rivers Atlanta Memorial Park, at the end of School was built as the E. Rivers the walk, is a great place for spread- Realty sales office for Peachtree ing a blanket under the trees to enjoy Heights Park. Later a district office a picnic lunch or supper. for the Atlanta Public Schools, it is now a community meeting facility. HISTORICAL MARKERS 4. E. Rivers School (1949, expan- 1. Geary’s Three Bridges— sion 1995)—8 Peachtree Battle Ave. Northside Dr. at Wesley Dr. This building, designed by Stevens 2. Geary’s Division to and Wilkinson, replaced the original Peachtree Creek—Peachtree Battle elementary school destroyed in a Ave. at Arden Rd. 1948 fire. The structure was the first 3. Soldiers Memorial—in the small school in Georgia to exhibit the park at Peachtree Battle Ave. and International style. Notable are the Peachtree Rd. This monument was exposed concrete framing and can- erected by the Old Guard of Atlanta. tilevered canopy over the northern 4. Federal Crossings—Howell Mill facade. It is named for Buckhead Rd. just south of the bridge developer and school board member 5. Howell’s Mills—Howell Mill Rd. Eretus Rivers. just south of the bridge 5. Lewis Crook House (1932)— 178 6. Williams Division Deployed— 172 Peachtree Battle Ave. This house Northside Dr. at entrance to Bitsy was designed by Crook, an architect Grant Tennis Center and co-developer of Morningside (see #15), for his own residence. NOTABLE PLACES 6. The Evans-Cucich House 1. Haynes Manor (1927)— (1935)—306 Peachtree Battle Ave. 426 Peachtree Battle Ave. Quite different from its traditional Designed in the style of an Italian neighbors, this house, with carved ornamentation along the facade, is Peachtree Battle Avenue & Atlanta Memorial Park

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P W 84. 24. 548 4 5 INTOWN an excellent example of the Art Deco OTHER WALKS IN THE AREA style. It was designed by A. F. N. #19 Tanyard Creek Park & Everett for printing company execu- Brookwood Hills tive and alleged Ku Klux Klan leader #21 Garden Hills Hiram Evans. NR #22 Atlanta History Center & 7. The Bobby Jones Golf Course Buckhead’s Beautiful Homes and Clubhouse (1932, 1940s)—384 Woodward Way. This 18-hole course along Peachtree Creek, laid out in 1932, honors golﬁng legend and Atlanta native Bobby Jones. The stucco clubhouse with its attractive porch and exterior ornamentation was added in the 1940s. Information: 404-355-1009. 8. Bitsy Grant Tennis Center (1952)—2125 Northside Dr. Named in honor of local tennis champion Bryan M. “Bitsy” Grant, this public complex has hosted major tournaments and special events for more than half a century. The facility offers more than 20 courts; some are lighted for night play. Information: 404-609-7193; www.bitsytennis.com

SPECIAL FEATURES AND EVENTS u Bitsy Grant Tennis Center is the site of local and regional tennis tournaments.

NEARBY ATTRACTIONS 180 u Peachtree Battle Shopping Center u Shops and restaurants: Fine dining and specialty shopping areas line Peachtree Rd. near the intersection with Peachtree Battle Ave. INTOWN C H A P T E R 2 1

DRIVING DIRECTIONS Garden Travel north from downtown via Peachtree or Piedmont Rds.; or Hills travel I-75 to Northside Dr. (exit 252), north to West Wesley Rd., east to Acorn Ave., and left to the community center on Pinetree Dr.

Parking Street parking is permitted on most side streets. Because it is busy, parking on E. Wesley Rd. is not recom- mended.

PUBLIC TRANSPORTATION Regular MARTA bus service LOCATION runs along Peachtree Rd. with About 6 miles north of downtown. #110 Peachtree serving the Lenox The walk begins by the Garden Hills Square, Arts Center, and Five Points Community Center on Pinetree Dr. rail stations. MARTA: 404-848-5000; GPS: N33.49.766/W 84.22.690 www.itsmarta.com

TRAIL DISTANCE BACKGROUND The meandering loop through the Located between two of Atlanta’s neighborhood is about 4.7 miles. major traffic arteries, Peachtree and Piedmont Rds., Garden Hills is com- TERRAIN posed of two distinct developments. The neighborhood’s rolling, The northern part, bordered by 181 tree-covered hills offer a Rumson Rd. and East Wesley Rd.— challenging walk. Generally, the trail dubbed “Beautiful Garden Hills” by descends moderately away from real estate developer Phillips Peachtree Rd. to a valley near the pool McDuffie—began to take shape in area; it then ascends eastward toward 1925, with houses first being con- Piedmont Rd. Well-maintained side- structed along Rumson Rd. Large walks meander through many of the houses were built along the tree- neighborhood’s older sections. lined streets until the Great Depres- INTOWN sion brought housing starts to a vir- ming pool. The monument recog- tual standstill. The 1930s saw a tran- nizes H. Aaron Alexander, who came sition to smaller, more affordable to Atlanta in 1848 and whose sons, Craftsman-style structures in an Joseph and Julius Alexander, bought effort to attract families of more this tract of land in 1872. The marker modest means. was placed in 1942. The southern portion, between E. Wesley Rd. and Lindbergh Dr., was NOTABLE PLACES established by Buckhead developer 1. Garden Hills Community Eretus Rivers as Peachtree Heights Center (clubhouse, 1990s; East to complement his Peach tree pool, 1950s)—E. Wesley Rd. at Pine- Heights subdivision on the west side tree Dr. This neighborhood recre- of Peachtree Rd. (see #20), which ational complex is a gathering place was laid out before World War I and for residents and visitors. The Com- developed during the 1920s and munity Center Clubhouse burned 30s. Peachtree Heights East offered down in late 1998 and has been com- smaller lots and simpler homes, and pletely rebuilt. was designed to attract middle- 2. Peachtree Heights Park and income buyers. Duck Pond (1933)—Lakeview and It is common to find several gen- Demorest Aves. This tranquil park erations of the same family living in has long been a gathering place for Garden Hills, as children who grew Garden Hills residents. up in the area return to it to live and 3. Christ the King Roman rear their families. Catholic Cathedral and School During warm summer months, (school, 1937; church, 1939)—Peach - walkers may conclude the trek with a tree Rd. at Peachtree Way. This swim in the Garden Hills community Gothic sandstone complex includes pool, which is open to the public. an elementary school and a beautiful (Annual passes are available.) A pic- church. It is the cathedral for the nic by the tranquil duck pond at Archdiocese of Atlanta. Peachtree Heights Park is another 4. Second Ponce de Leon Baptist inviting warm-weather conclusion to Church (1932)—Peachtree Rd. at 182 this walk. E. Wesley Rd. This Georgian-style, white brick church was built follow- HISTORICAL MARKERS ing the merger of two large Baptist 1. Sunnybrook Park—Brent- congregations (Second Baptist and wood Dr. at Brentwood Terr. Ponce de Leon Baptist). This plaque was placed by the 5. Episcopal Cathedral of Saint Garden Hills Women’s Club in 1934. Philip (begun 1947, completed 2. Alexander Park Marker— 1962)—Peachtree Rd. and Andrews E. Wesley Rd. across from the swim- Dr. Dominating a prominent hillside Garden Hills

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Duck pond in Peachtree Heights Park

overlooking Peachtree Rd., this mas- Shutze, was built a in 1938 to serve sive Gothic-style building is one of the Garden Hills and Buckhead the city’s most beautiful churches. neighborhoods. It remains an The Cathedral’s rose window is a Atlanta Public School. NR memorial to the Atlanta arts patrons killed in a Paris plane crash in 1962. SPECIAL FEATURES AND EVENTS 6. Garden Hills Commercial u Recreation center: In addition District (1930s)—Peachtree Rd. at to the pool and clubhouse, the Rumson Rd. Part of the develop- recreation center includes a play- ment plan, this strip of retail shops ground and small ball ﬁeld. was built to serve the needs of the u Sunnybrook Park is a shaded new neighborhood. retreat for picnicking or strolling. 7. Atlanta International School (1931, renovated and expanded NEARBY ATTRACTIONS 1995)—2890 N. Fulton Dr. This Philip u Buckhead shopping and dining T. Shutze–designed, Georgian-style u Lindbergh Plaza Shopping building was originally North Fulton Center High School. Its opening allowed u Peachtree Battle Shopping 184 neighborhood children to attend Center school closer to home. In 1995, the City of Atlanta leased the closed OTHER WALKS IN THE AREA school to the Atlanta International #19 Tanyard Creek Park & School, founded in 1984. NR Brookwood Hills 8. Garden Hills Elementary #20 Peachtree Battle Avenue & School (1938)—285 Sheridan Dr. Adja- Atlanta Memorial Park cent to the International School, this #22 Atlanta History Center & school, also designed by Philip T. Buckhead’s Beautiful Homes INTOWN C H A P T E R 2 2

DRIVING DIRECTIONS Atlanta From downtown, travel north via Peachtree Rd., then west on West History Center Paces Ferry Rd. Or travel I-75 north to West Paces Ferry Rd. (exit 255), & Buckhead’s then east for about 3 miles. The Atlanta History Center is located at Beautiful the intersection of West Paces Ferry Homes Rd. and Andrews Dr. Parking Parking is permitted on most side streets. There is limited visitor parking at the History Center. Additional parking is available in the Buckhead commercial area about 4 blocks east on West Paces Ferry Rd. LOCATION About 6 miles north of downtown. PUBLIC TRANSPORTATION A good starting point is the Atlanta Regular MARTA bus service History Center. (#40) runs on West Paces GPS: N33.50.533/W84.23.241 Ferry Rd. The bus serves the Lind- bergh rail station. MARTA: 404-848- TRAIL DISTANCE 5000; www.itsmarta.com The loop is about 6.3 miles. BACKGROUND Every major city has a residential TERRAIN area that is considered its show- 185 West Paces Ferry Rd. fol- place, a neighborhood where busi- lows a ridgeline, and the ness and professional leaders have side streets descend to creek bot- built homes that represent the best toms and open valleys. Some moder- in graceful living. In Atlanta nearly ately steep hills make this a everyone would agree that commu- challenging walk. Abundant shade nity is Buckhead. Established in the trees shelter the area, but there are 1840s as a stagecoach stop on the few sidewalks. wagon road between Gainesville, INTOWN Duluth, and Atlanta, the area during the Great Depression and remained a quiet, pastoral back- World War II, civic and business woods village until the advent of the leaders continued to build or pur- automobile in the early years of the chase estate homes in Buckhead, last century. Legend attributes the many designed by renowned archi- name to a buck’s head that suppos- tects, including Neel Reid and Philip edly once hung above the bar in early T. Shutze. Today, the area is home to settler Henry Irby’s tavern near the more than just notable locals; others intersection of the Roswell and with homes in the area include the Peach tree Rds. During the Civil War, Japanese consul general and the Union troops marched and camped governor of Georgia. This neighbor- along the old Paces Ferry Rd. as they hood of elegant residences has not approached Atlanta in July 1864. remained untouched by new devel- With easier access along a paved opment, however. The million-dollar Peachtree Rd., wealthy Atlantans mansions of yesteryear are giving began purchasing property in Buck- way to expansive multi-million head to construct weekend homes dollar estates. and elegant retreats. Among the The beauty of this area, com- first was James L. Dickey, Sr., who bined with its proximity to the cen- bought 400 acres on West Paces tral city, spurred its growth as a Ferry Rd. from the Powers family in tourist attraction. Tourist buses and 1903 and sold a portion to Robert private automobiles regularly mean- Maddox the following year. In 1911, der along the streets as visitors Maddox constructed a Tudor-style admire the fine houses and grounds estate called Woodhaven on the and take in exhibits at the Atlanta property (site of the present Gover- History Center on Andrews Dr. This nor’s Mansion) and James Dickey, complex of buildings includes the Jr. built his Greek Revival estate, Tullie Smith farmhouse and out- Arden, across the road in 1914. buildings; the exquisite Swan House, In 1911, real estate developer a familiar Atlanta landmark; and the Charles Black established the Tuxedo Atlanta History Museum. The build- Park and Valley Road Companies, ings occupy a wooded setting that 186 purchasing the remaining Dickey includes the 10-acre Swan Woods family property and other land for Trail, featuring the unusual Peace subdivision into large lots for resi- Tree sculpture, the Mary Howard dential construction. In the years Gilbert Memorial Quarry Garden, before World War I, prominent the Cherry Sims Asian-American Atlantans erected fine homes along Garden, and the Franklin A. Smith West Paces Ferry Rd., Blackland Rd., Memorial Rhododendron Garden. Tuxedo Rd., and other adjoining This walk begins and ends at the streets. While development slowed Atlanta History Center. Its exhibi- Atlanta History Center & Buckhead’s Beautiful Homes tions serve as a prelude to walking death of the builder’s great-grand- the trail, and the gardens offer the daughter, Tullie Smith, the house was perfect spot to cool down after- acquired by the Atlanta Historical wards. The trail provides a sampling Society. It was dismantled, moved, of the area’s horticultural beauty, and rebuilt on this site. Several especially in the spring when gardens period outbuildings have been added of flowers, dogwoods, and azaleas to recreate a working farmstead. NR paint an unsurpassed explosion of C. McElreath Hall (1975, renovated color across the landscape. 2002)—3101 Andrews Dr. Named for Walter T. McElreath, attorney, state HISTORICAL MARKERS legislator, and founding member of 1. 20th Army Corps, Paces the Atlanta Historical Society, this Ferry Rd.—W. Paces Ferry Rd. building houses administrative offices, at Arden Rd. auditorium, archives, gallery space for both permanent and traveling exhibi- NOTABLE PLACES tions, and the office of Franklin Gar- 1. The Atlanta History rett, Atlanta’s official historian, just as Center Complex— it was when he died in 2000. The 3101 Andrews Dr. building also houses the archives of A. Swan House (1928)—3099 the James G. Kenan Research Center. Andrews Dr. This large house, set D. Atlanta History Museum (1993, on a terraced hillside landscaped expanded 2000)—3101 Andrews Dr. with formal gardens, is the most Opened in 1993, the museum fea- well known work of Philip Shutze. tures extensive permanent displays Designed in a combination of Italian on local and state history as well as Baroque and Anglo-Palladian styles, space for traveling exhibits. Signifi- the house was commissioned by cant permanent exhibits include Met- entrepreneur Edward H. Inman and ropolitan Frontiers: Atlanta, 1835–2000, acquired by the Atlanta Historical offering a comprehensive look at Society in 1976. The Swan Coach the city’s history; Turning Point: The House, adjacent to the main resi- American Civil War, featuring power- dence, has been converted into a ful exhibits and artifacts; The Centen- simple but elegant tearoom and nial Olympic Games, profiling the 187 restaurant. NR events of the 1996 Olympics in B. The Tullie Smith House Atlanta; Down the Fairway with Bobby (c. 1836)—3101 Andrews Dr. Built by Jones, chronicling the career and cotton farmer Robert Hiram Smith, accomplishments of the golfing leg- this plain, plantation-style frame end and Atlanta native; and Shaping house originally stood near the pres- Traditions: Folk Arts in the Changing ent intersection of I-85 and North South. In addition, visitors will find Druid Hills Rd. In 1969, following the the A. Thornton Kennedy film INTOWN theater, a gift shop, and the Coca- residence was once owned by per- Cola Café. Opened in 2001, the cen- former Kenny Rogers. ter’s Grand Overlook Ballroom, a 6. Orme-Davison-Block House special events facility, offers (1929)—25 Valley Rd. Set far back panoramic views of the Quarry Gar- from the street, this Georgian-style den. The center is open to the public home was designed by the firm of for an admission fee, and annual Frazier and Bodin for attorney memberships are available. Hours: 10 Aquilla Orme. AM–5:30 PM, Mon.–Sat.; 12 PM–5 7. Marcan Hall (1934)—65 Valley PM, Sun. Information: 404-814-4000; Rd. Set far back from the street, this www.atlantahistorycenter.com large home, resembling an English 2. Craigellachie (1914)—155 W. Paces country estate, was built for Samuel Ferry Rd. Built for businessman John Candler Dobbs, president of the W. Grant, this Tudor Revival–style Coca-Cola Company. house, designed by Walter T. Down- 8. Thomas Johnson House ing, has been greatly expanded and is (1954)—3707 Tuxedo Rd. Situated on now the Cherokee Town Club. a level lot along the valley floor, this 3. Thornton Jones House (1934)— Greek Revival–style house resembles 205 W. Paces Ferry Rd. This under- an antebellum plantation. stated, white-painted brick home 9. Walter Thomas House was designed by Philip Shutze. (1945)—3795 Tuxedo Rd. This finely 4. Old Harmony Grove Cemetery crafted house features detailed (1870s)—Chatham Rd. at W. Paces ornamentation. Ferry Rd. Nestled in the trees are 10. Edward Holbrook House the remains of the Harmony Grove (1939)—3807 Tuxedo Rd. Con- Church Cemetery, established when structed of brick and designed in this area of Atlanta was still forest the Georgian style for Atlanta busi- and farmland (the church was demol- nessman Edward Holbrook, the ished many years ago). Interesting house was the official residence markers include James Smith, the pio- of the presidents of Georgia State neer settler who once owned much of University from 1960–96. The arbor the surrounding land; the Krause and gardens are especially notable. 188 family headstones, all in German; and 11. Official Residence of the a large memorial to John N. Sims Japanese Consul General (1960)— (1848–1919), a Buckhead merchant 265 Black land Rd. Built by coal com- and father of Walter A. Sims, who pany president Jack Rice, the house was elected mayor of Atlanta in 1922. was acquired as the consular resi- 5. Kenny Rogers House dence in the 1980s. (c. 2000)—10 Valley Rd. Among the 12. Peninsula House (1930s)— earliest of the new generation of 281 Blackland Rd. Possibly the most estate homes, this Italian villa-style photographed house in Atlanta Atlanta History Center & Buckhead’s Beautiful Homes

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GPS: N 33. 50. 533 W 84. 23. 241 INTOWN

Peninsula House

(a large picture of it once hung in the hill, this stone country estate was old Atlanta Airport), this exquisitely designed by New York architect landscaped Greek Revival–style Aymar Embury II (designer of many house was built for attorney Hugh P. estates on Long Island) for realtor Nunnally. In the late 1970s, it was Hugh Richardson. The two men met purchased by Prince Faisal of Saudi while serving in France Arabia, who used it as his American during World War I. Interestingly, residence until 1990. Embury also designed the medals 13. Wayne Rollins House (1960s)— awarded for Distinguished Service to 329 Blackland Rd. Atlanta business- military personnel for valor. man and philanthropist O. Wayne 17. Azalea House (1934)—225 Valley Rollins built this large house in the Rd. Situated on a small rise at the Greek Revival style to complement intersection of Valley and Tuxedo nearby Peninsula House. Rds., this house with formal gardens 14. Patterson-Carr House (1939)— is styled after the country houses of 3820 Northside Dr. Designed by England. It was designed by the firm Philip Shutze, this home is reminis- of Frazier and Bodin and constructed cent of an English country cottage. for Tuxedo Park developer Charles 15. Meadowlands (1967)—3770 Black. 190 Northside Dr. The home of Ivan 18. Windcrofte (1948)—3640 Tux - Allen, Jr., businessman and Atlanta edo Rd. This English country manor mayor (1962–70), is at the end of a house in a Georgian style was once long, winding drive. Allen’s work with the residence of longtime Coca-Cola Dr. Martin Luther King, Jr. earned Company chairman Robert W. national recognition for Atlanta’s Woodruff. peaceful desegregation efforts. 19. Dogwood Hills (1960s)— 16. Broadlands (1931)—3600 3574 Tuxedo Rd. Nestled atop an ivy- North side Dr. Set high on a wooded covered hill, this Asian-influenced Atlanta History Center & Buckhead’s Beautiful Homes house was the residence of Atlanta Society, until completion of the businessman and philanthropist Atlanta History Center in the 1960s. J. B. Fuqua. The home was dismantled and 20. Carl Sanders House (1950s)— moved to its present location in the 3488 Tuxedo Rd. This Greek Revival– early 2000s. style house and surrounding gardens 26. Johnson-Arnold-Alsop House was the home of Sanders, attorney (1921)—490 West Paces Ferry Rd. and Georgia governor (1963–67). Originally a small frame cottage, this 21. Whitehall (1940)—3425 Tuxedo home was dramatically remodeled Rd. This Italian villa-style house was and expanded as a Mediterranean- designed by Philip Shutze for Dr. style estate by Hentz, Reid, and Leroy Childs. It was later the resi- Adler. dence of Robert T. “Bobby” Jones, 27. Dickey Carriage House legendary golfer and Atlanta attorney. (1914)—460 W. Paces Ferry Rd. Now a 22. Fairleigh (1930)—3407 Tuxedo separate residence, this structure was Rd. Designed by the firm of Hentz, once part of the Dickey estate, Arden. Reid and Adler, this home was built 28. Arden (1914)—456 W. Paces for Atlanta attorney Alex Smith, Sr. Ferry Rd. This house, designed by 23. James D. Rhodes House Neel Reid for insurance executive (1926)—541 W. Paces Ferry Rd. This James Dickey, Jr., is thought to have ornate Italian Baroque–style villa been inspired by Mount Vernon. is attributed to Neel Reid, but archi- 29. Georgia Governor’s Mansion tectural historians believe it to have (1967)—391 W. Paces Ferry Rd. This been designed by his younger part- massive, Greek Revival–style house ner, Philip Shutze. It was commis- designed by Thomas Bradbury sits sioned by Rhodes, an Atlanta on 18 landscaped acres. The grounds furniture-store owner. and much of the surrounding gar- 24. Villa Juanita (1924)—509 W. dens were once part of Woodhaven, Paces Ferry Rd. Nearly hidden from the estate of Robert F. Maddox, who view behind a stucco wall, this Ital- was a banker and Atlanta mayor ian Romanesque–style house was (1909–11). Interestingly, the executive designed by the firm of Pringle and mansion’s first resident was the col- Smith. It was built for Conkey Pate orful and controversial Gov. Lester 191 Whitehead, heir to the Atlanta Coca- Maddox, who was no kin to the ear- Cola Bottling Company fortune. lier owner. The mansion is open to 25. Willis Jones House (1922)— the public at scheduled times and 490 West Paces Ferry Rd. Designed on special occasions. Hours: 10 AM– for Jones by Neel Reid, this home 11:30 AM, Tues.–Thurs. Information: was originally located on Peachtree 404-261-1776; www.mansion.georgia.gov Rd. For many years it was the head- 30. Governor’s Mansion Carriage quarters of the Atlanta Historical House (1904)—Woodhaven Dr. INTOWN

Samuel Boykin house

entrance to the mansion. This Company executive George Howell, building remains from the Robert the house was later owned by Maddox estate, which previously Atlanta attorney Martin Kilpatrick. occupied this site. 34. Goodrum-Abreu House 31. Knollwood (1929)—3351 Wood- (1931)—320 W. Paces Ferry Rd. haven Rd. Set back from the street Designed in the English Regency and partially hidden by thick foliage, style by Philip Shutze for Mrs. Jeffer- this English-Georgian estate was son Goodrum, widow of the Jacobs designed for Atlanta business leader Drugstore owner, it was called the W. H. Kiser by Philip Shutze. Pat- Peacock House because peacocks terned after Chatham, a Colonial Vir - once roamed its grounds. Goodrum ginia plantation, this house is consid- later married architect Francis ered one of Shutze’s finest works. Abreu. For several years, the house 32. Harry L. English House (1929) was headquarters for the Southern —426 W. Paces Ferry Rd. This English Center for International Studies, a Regency–style house, designed by nonprofit educational organization Philip Shutze, was commissioned by devoted to enhancing understanding businessman Harry English. It is now of international issues. 192 the residence of Anne Cox Cham- 35. Griffin Bell House (1940s)— bers, chairman of Atlanta Newspa- 3100 Habersham Rd. This Georgian- pers and director of its parent style brick home was once the company, Cox Enterprises, and for- residence of Griffin Bell, Atlanta mer ambassador to Belgium under attorney and U.S. attorney general Pres. Jimmy Carter. under Pres. Jimmy Carter. 33. Nestledown (1934)—400 W. 36. Boxwood Hills (1930s)— Paces Ferry Rd. Built by Kathryn 3053 Habersham Rd. This hewn-stone Howell, widow of Creomulsion English Country manor with sur- Atlanta History Center & Buckhead’s Beautiful Homes

Vaughn Nixon house rounding gardens, designed by Philip 3 Cherokee Rd. This white frame, Shutze, was built for Dr. Floyd Greek Revival–style cottage was McRae, a founder and longtime med- designed by Neel Reid for Draper, ical director of Piedmont Hospital. an insurance executive. Reid also 37. Samuel Boykin House (1929)— designed Draper’s earlier Druid 8 W. Andrews Dr. Built for the early Hills house. treasurer of The Coca-Cola Com- 42. Philips McDuffie House pany, this Italian villa-style house (1922)—7 Cherokee Rd. One of the rests on a landscaped hillside. largest houses Neel Reid ever 38. Vaughn Nixon House (1926)— designed, this Adams-style mansion 3083 Andrews Dr. Inspired by the was commissioned by McDuffie, the Hammond-Harwood House (c. 1774) developer of nearby Garden Hills. in Annapolis, Md., this house was 43. Buckhead Commercial District Neel Reid’s last commission. It was (1910s–present day)—area around completed after Reid’s death. intersection of West Paces Ferry, 39. Stuart Witham House Peachtree, and Roswell Rds. From (1926)—2922 Andrews Dr. This Geor- a sleepy rural village a century ago, gian-style house, built for an Atlanta this area has undergone dramatic real estate executive, is the work of changes in recent years. 193 Neel Reid. NR 40. Robert Alston House (1923)— SPECIAL FEATURES AND EVENTS 2890 Andrews Dr. Attorney Alston u The Atlanta History Center— commissioned Neel Reid to design lectures, exhibitions, and other pro- this Georgian-style house with two grams for members and the public. flanking wings, each featuring a Information: 404-814-4000. Selected Greek Revival–style portico. annual events include: 41. Jesse Draper House (1922)— u Sheep to Shawl—April INTOWN

u Spring Folklife Festival—April u International Folk Arts Fair— June u Civil War Encampment—July u Christmas Candlelight Tour of the Tullie Smith and Swan Houses— December u Changing exhibitions at the numerous Buckhead Art Galleries u Lenox Square Fourth of July Celebration and Fireworks—July 4th u Lighting of the Macy’s Christ- mas tree on the roof of Lenox Mall— Thanksgiving evening u Lighting of the state Christmas tree on the grounds of the Gover- nor’s Mansion—December u Peachtree Road Race–the course follows Peachtree Rd. through the heart of Buckhead—July 4th u Other events: For information on Buckhead-wide events and activities contact the Buckhead Coalition at 404-233-2228; www.buckhead.net

NEARBY ATTRACTIONS u Lenox Square and Phipps Plaza shopping malls

OTHER WALKS IN THE AREA #19 Tanyard Creek Park & 194 Brookwood Hills #20 Peachtree Battle Avenue & Atlanta Memorial Park #21 Garden Hills #25 Chastain Park INTOWN C H A P T E R 2 3

blind curve, and walkers should be Brookhaven alert to automobiles.

DRIVING DIRECTIONS Travel north from downtown via Peachtree Rd. Or travel I-85 north to North Druid Hills Rd. (exit 89), north to Peachtree Rd. Continue north for 0.1 mile and turn left on Brookhaven Dr. From I-285, drive south on Peachtree Industrial Blvd. (exit 31) for about 4.5 miles to Brookhaven Dr.

Parking Street parking is permitted on the LOCATION side streets unless otherwise posted. Brookhaven is about 10 miles north Also, limited parking is available of downtown. The walk begins in nearby at the Brookhaven MARTA the small triangle park at the inter- rail station. section of East and West Brook - haven Drs. PUBLIC TRANSPORTATION GPS: N33.51.615/W84.20.690 The Brookhaven rail station is directly across from Brook - TRAIL DISTANCE haven Dr. on Peachtree Rd. MARTA: The loop around the neighbor- 404-848-5000; www.itsmarta.com hood is about 3.7 miles. BACKGROUND 195 TERRAIN Following the signing of a treaty The area is landscaped and between the Creek Nation and the contains many old shade State of Georgia in 1821, land lots in trees. There are some moderate hills, newly created DeKalb County were but for the most part the trail is sold by lottery to settlers. John L. fairly level with some sidewalks. The Evins acquired a lot that spanned section between Farmington and the Native American Echota Trail East Club Dr. is very narrow with a (the route of the original Peachtree INTOWN

Capital City Club

Rd. followed this ancient trading The area remained rural and path). Over the next decade other remote until the early years of the settlers arrived, including the family 20th century when a growing number of Harris Goodwin and his father of wealthy families purchased land Solomon, who came to the area in for construction of weekend and 1831 and built a simple log-and-frame summer homes. Development of home that is the oldest extant house Brookhaven as a year-round residen- in DeKalb County. tial area began in 1910 when the ofﬁ- As more families arrived, this area cers of the Mechanical and became known as Solomon’s Cross- Manufacturers Club approved the ing. Solomon’s Crossing was south purchase of 150 acres on Peachtree of another small settlement called Rd. along the Fulton–DeKalb County Cross Keys, located near the intersec- line. They planned to construct a golf tion of several old Indian trails (a and country club and name it state historical marker at the inter- Brookhaven. Renowned golf course section of Ashford Dunwoody and architect H. H. Barker (designer of Johnson Ferry Rds. notes the approx- the nearby Druid Hills Country Club 196 imate location). In the 1850s, planter course) was commissioned to design Samuel House constructed a large a 9-hole course surrounding a lake. home on Peachtree at Old Cross Keys Haralson Bleckley designed the origi- Rd. (now Ashford Dunwoody Rd.). nal clubhouse, which, according to During the Civil War, the House plan- an account in the April 5, 1910, edi- tation was used by Gen. William T. tion of the Atlanta Journal, would Sherman as a headquarters due to its “afford facilities unsurpassed by any location on the roads leading to northern or southern city for the hos- Roswell, Decatur, and Atlanta. pitable entertainment of tourists and Brookhaven

Solomon Goodwin house automobilists visiting Atlanta and its The original golf clubhouse was environs. . . .” The club opened on demolished in 1927 to make way for Christmas Day, 1911, and two years the present French Provincial–style later was leased by the Capital City stone structure by Preston Stevens. Club, which had operated downtown The clubhouse and grounds have since the early 1880s. In 1915, the Cap- undergone several modernizations ital City Club purchased the course and expansions with the most recent and added another 9 holes. completed in 2009. That same year, real estate devel- Today, Brookhaven is no longer a opers B. M. Grant and A. S. Adams rural community. Its convenience to began development of Brookhaven Lenox Square, Buckhead, and down- Estates to complement the club. town is enhanced by the nearby This was the first Atlanta suburban Brookhaven MARTA rail station. development (and among the first in Brookhaven is listed on the National the nation) to combine a golf and Register of Historic Places. country club into its master plan. Leading Atlanta architects were HISTORICAL MARKERS commissioned to design elegant 1. Brookhaven—at the inter- 197 estates overlooking the club or along section of East and West adjoining streets—Hal Hentz, Neel Brookhaven Drs. Reid, A. F. N. Everett, Pringle and 2. Brookhaven Historic District— Smith, and Philip Shutze. Many early at entrance to the Capital City Club houses in the area were designed in on Club Dr. the Tudor Revival, Georgian Revival, 3. Solomon Goodwin House— and English Cottage styles popular in front of the house at 3967 Peach tree during the period. Rd. INTOWN NOTABLE PLACES Goodwin. Believed to be one of the This neighborhood draws oldest existing buildings in the its character from the Capi- county, it was a landmark for Federal tal City Country Club. These build- field operations during the cam- ings are of particular interest: paigns around Atlanta in 1864, and 1. Cousins House (c. 1930s)— stories are told that a family servant 3920 E. Brookhaven Dr. Designed in persuaded Union soldiers not to the Federal style, the house is noted burn it down. The house was moved for its large fan window above a here from its location nearby to columned portico. It has been the make way for the construction of the longtime residence of Atlanta devel- Brookhaven MARTA station. oper, business leader, and philanthropist Tom Cousins. NEARBY ATTRACTIONS 2. White Chimneys (1932)— u Lenox Square and Phipps Plaza 4040 E. Brookhaven Dr. This large offer shopping, dining, and enter- home with Flemish-bond, brick- tainment and-stone ornamentation was built u Oglethorpe University, for Leroy Rogers. It is an excellent Museum and Conant Performing example of the houses constructed Arts Center to complement the nearby country club. OTHER WALKS IN THE AREA 3. 1050 E. Club Ln. (1935)—This #21 Garden Hills unique, polished-stone house evokes #22 Atlanta History Center & the feeling of an English country Buckhead’s Beautiful Homes cottage. #24 Oglethorpe University & 4. 983 Stovall Blvd. (c. 1910s)— Silver Lake Attributed to Neel Reid, this brick #25 Chastain Park home is in the Georgian style. 5. Brookhaven Clubhouse (1927)— 53 W. Brookhaven Dr. Designed in the French Provincial style by the firm of Burge and Stevens, this struc- 198 ture was constructed of locally quarried stone. It replaced the original clubhouse, designed by Haralson Bleckley, son of Georgia Supreme Court justice, Logan Bleckley. 6. The Solomon Goodwin House (1831)—3967 Peachtree Rd. This hand- hewn house was built by pioneer DeKalb County resident Solomon Brookhaven Brookhaven

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DRIVING DIRECTIONS Oglethorpe Travel north on Peachtree Rd. from downtown; or travel north on University & I-85 to North Druid Hills Rd. (exit 89), bear left at the exit ramp, go Silver Lake north about 1 mile to Peachtree Rd.; or travel I-285 to Peachtree Industrial Blvd. (exit 31), and drive south about 3.5 miles to Peachtree Rd.

Parking Some street parking is available along Woodrow Way and Lanier Dr., and limited space is available at the Oglethorpe campus on weekends.

LOCATION PUBLIC TRANSPORTATION About 11 miles north of downtown. Regular MARTA bus service The walk begins at the Oglethorpe runs along Peachtree Rd. (#25 University entrance drive on Peach - Peachtree Industrial), which con- tree Rd. nects with the Brookhaven and GPS: 33.52.368; 84.19.892 Doraville rail stations. MARTA: 404- 848-5000; www.itsmarta.com TRAIL DISTANCE The Silver Lake loop is about BACKGROUND 3 miles, and a stroll around the Oglethorpe University and the resi- Oglethorpe campus will add about dential communities that have 200 1 mile. grown along the southern banks of Silver Lake have had a long relation- TERRAIN ship. Oglethorpe University was Most of the trail is rolling, chartered in 1835 as a preparatory with some moderate hills. school for the Presbyterian ministry Inman Dr. is very winding, so walkers in Milledgeville, Ga. It prospered must be alert to automobiles. Stately until the early 1860s, when most of shade trees are abundant along the the students left to join the Confed- entire route. erate Army and the school closed. Oglethorpe University & Silver Lake A notable early alumnus of the Georgian. Hearst read accounts of school was poet Sidney Lanier. Jacobs’ efforts to revive the school In 1870, the school reopened in and took a personal interest in the the former home of Atlanta busi- project. Over a 30-year period, Hearst nessman John Neal on the site of donated more than a half million dol- Atlanta’s present City Hall. The lars to Oglethorpe. In appreciation, house had earlier served as Union the school awarded Hearst an hon- Gen. William T. Sherman’s head- orary degree in 1927. Two years later, quarters as he oversaw the occupa- at Jacobs’ urging, Hearst purchased tion of Atlanta in the fall of 1864. Silver Lake and 400 acres of land Times were lean in postwar Atlanta, around it from the languishing Silver and the school closed again in 1872. Lake Park Company (Atlantans had Nearly 40 years later, a clergyman, continued to believe the area too Dr. Thornwell Jacobs, sought to revive remote for residential development), the college. He initiated a massive and gave them to the university. At a fundraising campaign that generated lakeside ceremony in spring 1935, more than $200,000. Buoyed by this Georgia Gov. Eugene Talmadge outpouring of support, Dr. Jacobs rededicated it as Lake Phoebe, in worked closely with university board honor of Hearst’s mother. (Interest- member and real estate developer ingly, this name never stuck, and it C. H. Ashford to select a site for the reverted to its original name, Silver new campus along Peachtree Rd. Lake, in the 1940s. As a permanent in DeKalb County. Ashford had memorial, Oglethorpe University recently dammed several tributaries rededicated its original campus build- of Peachtree Creek and constructed ing, completed in 1915, as Phoebe a 30-acre lake that he hoped would Hearst Hall in 1948.) become the centerpiece of a new resi- In May 1932, presidential candidate dential community that would profit Franklin Roosevelt gave the univer- from the success of nearby Brook - sity’s commencement address, offer- haven. His fledgling Silver Lake Park ing listeners insights into his ideas Company, he believed, would greatly for a “New Deal.” Ten years later, in benefit from the presence of a univer- 1942, soldiers from the Army’s 101st sity. In 1914, the Silver Lake Park Airborne—made famous in author 201 Company conveyed 48 acres to Ogle - Stephen Ambrose’s book Band of thorpe University, and construction Brothers—camped on the quadrangle of the first campus building began a during their march from training short time later. grounds in Toccoa to Atlanta. One surprising out-of-state bene- The early buildings on the campus, factor was California newspaper notably Hearst, Lupton, and Lowry magnate William Randolph Hearst, Halls and Hermance Stadium, were who in 1912 had purchased the Atlanta designed in Gothic style by Morgan INTOWN

Lupton Hall

and Dillon. The buildings resemble the Division III Final Four in 2008. those of Corpus Christi College The men’s golf team won the NCAA in Oxford, England, which was the national championship in 2009. alma mater of Georgia’s colonial In 1992, the school reestablished founder, Gen. James E. Oglethorpe. its varsity baseball program, which Today, numerous modern buildings had fielded highly competitive teams have been added to the 95-acre cam- from the 1920s to the 1960s. Luke pus, including the Conant Perform- Appling, a member of major league ing Arts Center, home to the Georgia baseball’s Hall of Fame, got his Shakespeare Festival. start playing ball for Oglethorpe in Oglethorpe is a liberal arts col- the 1930s. lege with an enrollment of about In the 1950s and 1960s, the school 1,300 students and a long history as sold several large tracts of land along a basketball power among small col- Silver Lake for road construction and 202 leges. From the 1950s to the 1990s, controlled residential development. under the guidance of Coaches Gar- One purchaser was the Roman land Pinholster and Jack Berkshire, Catholic diocese of Atlanta—Savan- the Stormy Petrels posted numerous nah, which acquired land on the east- winning seasons and played in sev- ern end of the lake (where Ashford eral national and post-season tour- had once dreamed of constructing a naments. More recently, the resort hotel and yacht club), and in women’s team has made several 1952 erected Our Lady of the Assump- appearances in the NCAA Tourna- tion Church and School, the first ment, including an appearance in Oglethorpe University & Silver Lake Catholic congregation in suburban 2. The Samuel House Plantation— Atlanta. Peachtree at Ashford Dunwoody Rds. Surrounding residential lots were large and areas along the lake itself NOTABLE PLACES were left untouched in order to pre- The Oglethorpe campus has serve the natural, heavily forested several notable buildings, landscape. Today, a meandering walk including: along nearby Inman Dr. feels like a 1. Phoebe Hearst Hall (1916)—east stroll down a country road. The uni- side of the Quadrangle. This was the versity continued to work with Silver first building constructed on the new Lake homeowners to maintain this campus. This Gothic-style stone natural environment. In 1977, the structure houses classrooms, offices, failure of an earthen dam above and the campus bookstore. Buried Toccoa Falls College in north Geor- beneath Hearst Hall is the Crypt of gia prompted federal investigations Civilization, a stone-encased vault of older earthen dams nationwide. containing a vast array of artifacts Silver Lake’s dam, constructed in and information including a copy of 1911, was declared unsafe and the the U.S. Constitution, a bottle of lake was drained by the Army Corps Coca-Cola, and a first edition of of Engineers. Costs to strengthen Gone With the Wind. The vault was the dam and refill the lake were esti- sealed in May 1940 and is not to be mated to exceed $250,000, and opened for 6,000 years. efforts to raise the needed funds 2. Lupton Hall (1925)—across the from among the relatively small Quadrangle from Hearst Hall. Simi- number of area homeowners lar in design to Hearst Hall, this seemed destined to failure until the building houses classrooms and university stepped in, selling some school administrative offices. The land for residential purposes and funds to construct this building were contributing the funds toward contributed by John Lupton, owner restoring the lake. of the Coca-Cola Bottling Company Today, Oglethorpe and Silver in Chattanooga, Tenn. Lake remain mutually supportive, 3. Weltner Library in Lowry Hall offering educational and recre- and Oglethorpe Museum (1926, 203 ational opportunities in a beautiful expansion 1992)—west end of the woodland setting. Campus informa- Quadrangle. Also in the Gothic style, tion: 404-364-8307; www.oglethorpe.edu the stone building was constructed with funds donated by Col. Robert HISTORICAL MARKERS Lowry, founder of the Lowry 1. Oglethorpe University— National Bank, now SunTrust Bank. in front of the campus on It was originally the school of Peachtree Rd. Banking and Commerce. In 1992, INTOWN an extensive expansion project was Home of the Stormy Petrels basket- completed. The library is dedicated ball team, the field house building’s to Dr. Philip Weltner, university presi- walls are adorned with historic univer- dent 1944–53. The building also sity memorabilia and photographs. houses the Oglethorpe Museum, The Schmidt Center houses facilities which offers gallery space for perma- for intramural sports and was a gift nent and traveling exhibitions. Hours: from alumnus and board member 12 PM–5 PM, Tues.–Sun. Museum Steve Schmidt. (During WWII, information: 404-364-8555. An admis- Schmidt was the pilot of a B-29 he sion fee is charged and memberships nicknamed “The Stormy Petrel.”) are available. 7. Hermance Stadium and Frank 4. Robinson Hall (c. 1940s, Anderson Field (1926)—eastern end expansions 2000)—south of Weltner of the campus on Peachtree Rd. Library. Originally constructed Built with funds donated by Wool- with funds donated by Mrs. Hugh worth executive Harry Hermance, Bancker, president of the Ogle - this small, Gothic-style stone struc- thorpe Women’s Board, the build- ture dates from the days when ing was long known as Faith Hall. Oglethorpe fielded a varsity football In 2000, Atlanta philanthropist J. team able to challenge the likes of Mack Robinson provided funds to Georgia and Georgia Tech. Originally renovate and expand the building. planned to seat 50,000, the stadium In recognition of this gift, the build- was scaled down to 5,000 seats ing was renamed in his honor. due to the Depression. Literary quo- 5. Conant Performing Arts Center tations and game scores are carved (1997)—behind Lowry Hall. This per- into the structure. Today the field, formance facility was a joint project named for Frank Anderson, Ogle - of the university and the Georgia thorpe’s football and baseball coach Shakespeare Festival. For many years, (1920–44), is home to the varsity the Shakespeare Festival held per- baseball team. formances under a big tent on the 8. Beall–Barnhart House (1930)— Oglethorpe campus. The permanent 3130 Lanier Dr. The Beall family pur- 510-seat facility provides space for chased the land for this house in 204 both the festival and university spon- 1920 and lived in a tent on the land, sored events. Event information: selling vegetables from their garden, Oglethorpe Players: 404-504-1074; for 10 years before building this www.oglethorpe.edu/theatre. Georgia wooden bungalow. Shakespeare Festival: 404-264-0020; 9. Our Lady of the Assumption www.gashakespeare.org Church and School (1950s, new sanc- 6. Schmidt Center and Dorough tuary 2006)—1350 Hearst Dr. Situ- Field House (1960s, 1995)—south cam- ated on a hill above the lake, the pus across from the Quadrangle. church and school drew many Oglethorpe University & Silver Lake

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GPS: W 33. 52. 368 N 84. 19. 892 INTOWN

Hawk-Lutz house

Catholic families to the developing C. H. Ashford. The building is now neighborhood. The Gothic-style the clubhouse of the private sanctuary was completed in 2006. Peachtree Golf Club. 10. 3150 Inman Dr. (1927)—This Craftsman-style home was the first SPECIAL FEATURES AND EVENTS constructed on Inman Dr. as part of u Numerous programs such as the Silver Lake Company residential workshops, theatrical productions, development. and athletic events take place 11. Hawk-Lutz House (1937)— throughout the year on the Ogle - 3262 Inman Dr. This yellow-painted thorpe campus. Information: 404- frame house was constructed for 364-8307; www.oglethorpe.edu Atlanta pharmacist, drugstore u The Georgia Shakespeare Festi- owner, and Buckhead resident J. L. val is held on the campus each sum- Hawk. It may have originally served mer. Information: 404-264-0020; as a weekend lake retreat. www.gashakespeare.org 12. The Samuel House Plantation u Exhibitions at the Oglethorpe (1858)—at Peachtree Rd. and Ashford University Museum. Information: Dunwoody Rd. Called Southlook by 404-364-8555 its original owner, this Georgian-style house (the columned portico was NEARBY ATTRACTIONS added in the 1880s) was once the u Blackburn Park—tennis courts, 206 center of a large plantation. Its red ball fields (DeKalb County). Tennis bricks were made onsite by slave Center: 770-451-1061 masons. Union Gen. William T. Sher- u Murphey Candler Park—athletic man used this house for his head- fields, lake (DeKalb County) quarters on July 18–19, 1864, as he pushed retreating Confederates from OTHER WALKS IN THE AREA the Chattahoochee River into their #23 Brookhaven Atlanta defenses. A later resident #25 Chastain Park was Silver Lake Park Company owner INTOWN C H A P T E R 2 5

toward the valley of Nancy Creek. Chastain South of the creek, the land rises to another ridge south of the park. Park Much of the walk route is shaded. Walkers should be especially alert to errant shots on stretches of the path that are close to the golf course.

DRIVING DIRECTIONS Travel north from downtown via Peachtree Rd. to Roswell Rd. to Powers Ferry Rd.; or travel I-285 to Northside Dr. (exit 22), south to Mount Vernon Hwy., east on Mount LOCATION Vernon Hwy. to Powers Ferry Rd., Chastain Park is about 8 miles north and south on Powers Ferry Rd. for of downtown. The walk begins by about 4 miles to the park. the PATH marker at W. Wieuca Rd. and Lake Forrest Dr. Parking GPS: N33.52.833/W 84.23.249 There are parking lots adjacent to the ball fields and the amphitheater; TRAIL DISTANCE street parking is permitted along Beginning in 1995, the PATH West Wieuca Rd. Foundation, with the help of many generous contributions, began PUBLIC TRANSPORTATION construction of a paved footpath You can reach Chastain Park by reg- along the eastern and northern ular MARTA bus service (#5 Roswell boundaries of the park. This, along Rd.), exiting at Wieuca Rd. and 207 with graded areas on Powers Ferry walking west about .3 mile. The #5 Rd., offers a pleasant 3-mile walk bus connects with Perimeter Center around the park’s perimeter. and Lindbergh rail stations. MARTA: 404-848-5000; www.itsmarta.com TERRAIN Wieuca Rd. meanders BACKGROUND below the northern ridgeline These lands around the strate- and the land slopes away southward gically important Powers Ferry INTOWN Rd. were contested in a skirmish HISTORICAL MARKERS fought in July 1864 by units of Gen. 1. Howard’s Corps At Nancy Joseph Wheeler’s Confederate Cavalry Creek—Powers Ferry Rd. at and troops of Gen. O. O. Howard’s the Nancy Creek Bridge 4th Corps, Union Army of the Ohio. 2. William’s Ky. Cavalry At In an effort to slow the Federal Nancy’s Creek—Powers Ferry Rd. at advance toward Atlanta, Confederate the Nancy Creek Bridge horsemen burned the bridge spanning 3. Troy Chastain Commemorative Nancy Creek on July 17, 1864. Marker—affixed to a boulder at the Over a half-century later, these intersection of W. Wieuca and Pow- pastoral hills became home to the ers Ferry Rds. Fulton County Almshouse (poor 4. Sardis Methodist Church— house), whose main buildings now Powers Ferry Rd. at Roswell Rd form the core of the nearby Gal- loway School. Once a quiet wood- NOTABLE PLACES land and later a battlefield, Chastain 1. Field of Dreams (1970s)— Park is today one of the city’s Lake Forrest Ave. south favorite playgrounds. of W. Wieuca Rd. Part of the North- Named for former Fulton County side Youth Organization’s athletic Commissioner Troy Chastain, this complex, this picturesque Little multipurpose recreational park was League baseball field features sta- established in 1946. Located in the dium seats from the old Atlanta– heart of the close-in northern sub- Fulton County Stadium. urbs, Chastain Park contains the 2. Buckhead American Legion most popular city-owned golf course, Building (1940s)—3905 Powers Ferry a full-service tennis center, swimming Rd. Home to American Legion pool, gymnasium, arts center, play- Post 140, this building has served ground, and athletic fields for soft- for many years as a community ball, baseball, soccer, and football. events facility. The Chastain Park Amphitheater—an 3. Tennis Center (1970s)—110 W. outdoor performance center and Wieuca Rd. Popular with recreational home to a wide variety of musical players and serious competitors 208 concerts and theatrical productions alike, the courts are nearly always during the spring and summer crowded. Information: 404-255-1993 months—is on the park’s northern 4. Chastain Horse Park (1939, boundary. Chastain Park has been a rebuilt 1999)—4371 Powers Ferry Rd. gathering place for over 50 years. A After being closed for nearly a park map and information on activi- decade, the stables were restored ties are available from the Chastain and reopened in 1999 as a non- Park Conservancy website, www. profit, therapeutic riding center for chastainparkconservancy.org. individuals with cognitive, physical, Chastain Park

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or emotional disabilities. Event Rd. The stone clubhouse is reminis- information: 404-233-7275 cent of those at old courses in Scot- 5. Swimming Pool (1950s)— land. Overlooking the long, rolling W. Wieuca Rd. adjacent to the Gal- course, it houses a pro shop and loway School campus. Popular with snack bar. Information and tee times: generations of Buckhead children, 404-255-0723 this is one of the largest public pools 9. Chastain Arts Center (1909)— in Atlanta. 135 W. Wieuca Rd. Constructed as 6. Chastain Park Amphitheater part of the Almshouse complex, this (c. 1944)—4469 Stella Dr. Set amidst large, white frame building served a surrounding forest, this has long as the residence for poor African been a favorite outdoor perform- Americans. It now houses classroom, ance facility. studio, and gallery space for arts 7. The Galloway School (1909)— education programs. Information: 210 215 W. Wieuca Rd. The centerpiece 404-252-2927 of the expanding campus is the mas- 10. Chastain Park Recreation sive, red brick Neoclassical-style Center (1970s)—140 W. Wieuca Rd. building constructed for use as the This building houses basketball Fulton County Almshouse. Buildings courts and other exercise facilities. have been added to the campus Information: 404-851-1273 since the school’s founding in 1969. 11. Sardis Methodist Church 8. North Fulton Golf Course (1927)—3725 Powers Ferry Rd. The Clubhouse (1940s)—216 W. Wieuca congregation was established on this Chastain Park site on land taken from the Indians and given to the church in 1812 (over 10 years before the founding of DeKalb County). The building is the fourth church to occupy the site, and the style is reminiscent of the original structure. The earliest graves in the adjacent burial ground date from the 1830s. Among those interred here is Henry Irby, whose tavern featured a mounted buck’s head that led to locals dubbing the area “Buckhead.”

SPECIAL FEATURES AND EVENTS u Gallery showings at the Chastain Arts Center—throughout the year u Concerts and performances at the Amphitheater—summer u Youth sports tournaments at the NYO ﬁelds—spring, summer, and fall

NEARBY ATTRACTIONS u Buckhead shopping and dining district

OTHER WALKS IN THE AREA #22 Atlanta History Center & Buckhead’s Beautiful Homes #23 Brookhaven #24 Oglethorpe University & 211 Silver Lake AROUN

Descending Panola Mountain

Entering Hurt Road tunnel on Silver Comet Trail ND ATLANTA

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McCain Library at Agnes Scott College AROUND ATLANTA C H A P T E R 2 6

Drive west, across U.S. 41, and con- Historic tinue about 3 miles to Powder Springs St. Turn right (north) and follow Marietta the signs a short distance to a public parking area on the right.

Parking Ample metered parking is available around the square. Free, time-limited parking is available across the railroad tracks from the welcome center.

PUBLIC TRANSPORTATION Cobb Community Transit LOCATION (CCT) buses operate from the About 22 miles northwest of down- square and connect with the MARTA town. The walk begins at the wel- system at the Arts Center rail station. come center. CCT: 770-427-4444; www.cobbdot.com GPS: N33.57.167/W 84.33.087 BACKGROUND TRAIL DISTANCE Marietta’s open common, where From the welcome center on Confederate militia once mustered Depot St., the route covers and farmers still bring produce to about 5.8 miles. sell, evokes images of a small South- ern town. Located on land that TERRAIN marked the boundary between the 214 Most of this trail is fairly Creek and Cherokee Nations, the level with a few moderately town site was surveyed in 1833, one rolling hills. An abundance of shade year after Cobb County’s creation. trees and a well-maintained sidewalk Access to water and favorable terrain system grace the main streets. contributed to Marietta’s settlement. A short time later, these features DRIVING DIRECTIONS proved important to the placement Travel I-75 north to GA 120, of a railroad connection to Chat- also called Marietta Pkwy. (exit 263). tanooga in Marietta. The origin of the Historic Marietta

Marietta Welcome Center name Marietta has been obscured by the leadership of James J. Andrews time, but historians believe it derives planned the daring theft of a loco- from the name of Mary Cobb, wife of motive, with which they hoped to prominent lawyer and United States destroy the northward railroad line. Sen. Thomas W. Cobb, for whom the Masquerading as civilians, they county is named. stayed the night of April 11, 1862, at By the mid-1830s, Marietta was a the Kennesaw House Hotel (then thriving community. The early devel- called the Fletcher House). The next opment of both Atlanta and Mari- morning, the men purchased tickets etta intertwined with the growth for the train from Atlanta. While the of the railroad and the extension of crew stopped for breakfast nearby connecting lines throughout the at Big Shanty, the raiders quietly region. In fact, Marietta was the des- uncoupled the locomotive General tination of the first train to depart and sped from the depot. Atlanta (then called Marthasville) on The Confederates quickly realized Christmas Day 1842. The engine used what had happened and made chase was the Florida, brought overland by by handcar and then in the engine mule train from Madison, Georgia, Yonah. They eventually transferred to 215 for the occasion. Marietta’s citizens the southbound locomotive Texas held a momentous celebration to and, traveling in reverse, caught up mark the achievement. with the Yankees outside Ringgold, During the Civil War, Marietta Ga., where the General had run out was an important supply center on of wood and water. The raiders were the Western and Atlantic Rail Line captured, imprisoned, and tried as from Atlanta to Chattanooga. In spies. Several were hanged near Oak- early 1862, Federal raiders under land Cemetery (see #6) and hastily AROUND ATLANTA interred there (their bodies were On July 1, Sherman sent Gen. exhumed after the war) while their James B. McPherson’s Army of the leader, James Andrews, was hanged Tennessee on a southeastward flank- in a wooded area near what is now ing march toward the Sand Town 4th St. in Midtown Atlanta. One of Rd. and the Chattahoochee River. the Union soldiers, James Parrot, This tactic forced Confederate com- was the first recipient of the Medal mander Gen. Joe Johnston to aban- of Honor, bestowed upon him by don his mountaintop fortress and Pres. Abraham Lincoln. Eventually, retreat from Marietta to defensive eight of the Federals involved in the positions on the banks of the river. chase received this honor. Ironically, No sooner were the Confederates Andrews was not eligible to receive a gone than Union troops entered posthumous medal because he was Marietta and set up their own head- a civilian. Two popular films re-tell quarters and hospitals. The Federal the story: The General, a 1926 silent occupation lasted until November film starring Buster Keaton, and The 1864, after which most Union troops Great Locomotive Chase, starring Fess rejoined Sherman’s main force for Parker, produced by Walt Disney in the March to the Sea. As they 1956. Two of the locomotives still departed, the soldiers torched the exist and are on display locally. The courthouse and most of the com- General may be seen at the Southern mercial buildings around the square. Museum of Civil War and Locomo- Fortunately, many private homes tive History (see #29), and the Texas were spared, and several of these is housed at the Cyclorama in Grant antebellum structures may still be Park (see #7). seen along Cherokee and Church Sts. During the Union invasion of and Kennesaw Ave. Georgia in the summer of 1864, the Shortly after the war’s end, Henry retreating Confederates dug in atop Cole, a native New Yorker who had the heights of nearby Kennesaw lived in Marietta since the 1850s, Mountain and set up supply depots offered a portion of his property as a and field hospitals in Marietta. burial ground for both Union and Between June 22 and 27, fierce battles Confederate dead. He hoped his ges- 216 raged as Gen. William T. Sherman’s ture might in some small way foster Federals unsuccessfully attempted to reconciliation between the North dislodge the Confederates from the and South. But local leaders, deeply heights. Fresh Rebel troops and embittered over the South’s defeat, much-needed materials flowed up would not accept his offer, choosing from Marietta to the fighting fields, instead to expand the Confederate while the wounded and dying were section of the local cemetery. The carried back to tents, churches, and U.S. Government, however, did private homes for treatment. accept Cole’s offer and established Historic Marietta

Archibald Howell house the Marietta National Cemetery in bandstand on the square. Around 1866. The first burials were re-intern- the turn of the century Marietta ments from shallow battlefield graves graciously settled into its role as at Kennesaw Mountain, New Hope Atlanta’s smaller neighbor, offering Church, Peachtree Creek, Ezra convenience to the city but retaining Church, and Atlanta. As noted in the its distinct identity. carved inscription, the formal stone During World War II, Marietta entrance to the cemetery is dedicated became a center of the defense indus- to the “10,432 men [buried here] who try. Workers at the Bell Bomber Plant, died in defence [sic] of the Union.” at the time one of the largest buildings After the war, Marietta slowly in the world, assembled hundreds of rebuilt. Easy railroad access and the B-29 bombers. This was the precursor pleasant climate attracted tourists to the present-day Lockheed-Martin from coastal areas during the sum- facility that produces military aircraft mer, as it had in antebellum times; from C-130 cargo planes to state-of- in the winter, visitors from the north the-art jet fighters. Nearby Dobbins (including many former Union sol- Air Force Base is a center for military 217 diers) came to Marietta to escape air transport services. harsh weather back home. Tourists Today, several designated historic spent their days much as visitors districts branch from Marietta’s continue to do today, browsing in square along Kennesaw, Church, and shops along the square, walking Cherokee Sts. and along Washington the nearby battlefields, or rocking and Whitlock Aves. Antebellum on hotel porches. Evenings were and high-Victorian houses, notable enlivened by musical concerts at the commercial buildings, and the AROUND ATLANTA National Cemetery create a worth- with decorative dormers, once the while, historically rich urban land- passenger station for the Western scape. Information: 770-429-1115; and Atlantic Railroad, is the Mari- www.mariettasquare.com etta Welcome Center. The depot was built on the site of the station HISTORICAL MARKERS destroyed by Federal troops in 1864. 1. Glover Machine Works— Hours: 9 AM–5 PM, Mon.–Fri.; 11 AM at the railroad display across –4 PM, Sat.; 1 PM–4 PM, Sun. the tracks from the Welcome Information: 770-429-1115; www. Center mariettasquare.com 2. UDC and Kennesaw House— 2. Kennesaw House (1855)—1 Depot at Kennesaw House St., east of the railroad tracks. This 3. Kennesaw House—at Kennesaw brick structure was originally 4 stories House high (the top floor was destroyed by 4. Cobb County—south end of fire). Built by Dix Fletcher, the hotel the square was called the Fletcher House when 5. Cobb County—marble marker Andrew’s Raiders stayed here in April embedded in the ground at the 1862. The only pre-Civil War structure south end of the square remaining on the square, the building 6. Residence of Alice McClellan was used by Gen. Sherman as his Birney—in front of the house at headquarters for a brief period fol- 354 Kennesaw Ave. lowing the Confederate withdrawal 7. Archibald Howell House— from Kennesaw Mountain. The build- Kennesaw Ave. and Holland St. ing houses the Marietta Museum of 8. Birney Memorial Marker— History, which displays a wide variety small garden area on Winn St. adja- of artifacts from the City’s and Cobb cent to Marietta Middle School County’s past. Hours: 10 AM–4 PM, 9. Oakmont—in front of house at Mon.–Sat. Information: 770-794-5710; 38 Oakmont Dr. www.mariettahistory.org 10. Confederate Cemetery—at the 3. The Hardware Store (1857)— cemetery on Powder Springs St. Mill St. east of the railroad tracks. 11. Confederate Cemetery—by the Built by Marietta pioneer Edward 218 monument in the cemetery Denmead for use as a warehouse, 12. Oakton—Kennesaw Ave. north this thick-walled brick structure of Nelson St. Antebellum residence has served a variety of uses through of John R. Wilder the years. 4. Marietta Station (1892)— NOTABLE PLACES Between Church St. and the railroad 1. Old Railroad Depot tracks south of Polk St. Built by the Welcome Center (1898)— Marietta Chair Company, the build- 4 Depot St. This red brick building ings have undergone adaptive reuse Historic Marietta

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'037 . AROUND ATLANTA and today house a shopping and Washington Aves. Located on the office complex. site of the antebellum courthouse, 5. First Baptist Church (1897)— this sprawling complex houses gov- 148 Church St. This granite and mar- ernment offices and courtrooms. ble church exhibits features of the 11. Earl Smith Strand Theatre Romanesque Revival style. The (1935)—117 N. Park Sq. This art deco- church congregation dates to 1835. style movie house was billed as the 6. Schilling’s Hardware (1900)— “most modern theatre outside North Park Sq. at Church St. A store Atlanta” when it opened. After years at the turn of the century, the build- of sitting vacant, the facility has been ing now houses a restaurant. restored as a venue for movies, musi- 7. Marietta Square and Glover cal performances, and theatrical Park (1852)—Land for the square was productions. It is named to honor donated in 1852 by the city’s first Marietta business leader and bene- mayor, John H. Glover. Glover Park, factor Earl Smith. Information: 770- named in his honor, contains a 293-0080; www.earlsmithstrand.org. gazebo, a bandstand, a fountain, a The Strand is also home to Atlanta play area for children (including a Lyric Theater Information: 404-377- small replica of the General), a sta - 9948; www.atlantalyrictheatre.com tue of prominent local citizen and 12. Gray Gables (1890s)— United States Senator Alexander 200 Cherokee St. This large frame Stephens Clay, and an exact replica house was built as a boarding house of the Liberty Bell, cast in the same during Marietta’s heyday as a resort. foundry as the original bell, that is It is now a bank. rung each July 4th. 13. Forest Hill (1888)—201 Chero- 8. Fletcher’s (1888)—West Park Sq. kee St. It once was the home of at Whitlock Ave. Built to house the Virginia Crosby, a descendent of Eli - Marietta Bank, this Italianate brick zabeth Washington Lewis, sister of structure now houses retail stores. George Washington. Miss Crosby 9. Marietta-Cobb Museum of Art was active with the Daughters of (1909)—30 Atlanta St. This columned, the American Revolution (DAR) Greek Revival–style building was built and was the first woman to run for 220 as the post office and later converted mayor of Marietta. for use as a library. It now houses a 14. Montgomery House (1870s)— regional art museum featuring both 362 Cherokee St. Built during the permanent and traveling exhibitions. post–Civil War era by William Mont- Hours: 11AM–5PM, Tues.–Sat. gomery, the house has been remod- Information: 770-528-1444; www. eled and expanded through the years mariettacobbartmuseum.org by his descendants. 10. Cobb County Government 15. Keeler-Minchew House Complex (1970s–80s)—Cherokee and (1883)—392 Cherokee St. This house, Historic Marietta with a porch extending across the nearby park features recreation fields front, is an excellent example of the and an enclosed dog-park space. Queen Anne style. Note: Use care in crossing the railroad 16. Brumby-McKerer House tracks at this point. (1923)—419 Cherokee St. This Geor- 22. Fair Oaks (1850)—505 Kenne- gian-style brick home, attributed saw Ave. This comfortable two-story to Neel Reid, was built for Otis frame house was the headquarters Brumby, Sr. of Confederate Gen. Joseph E. John- 17. Sessions-Blair House (1895)— ston during the campaign around 440 Cherokee St. Built by Judge Kennesaw Mountain in 1864. The William Sessions, the house was pur- house now belongs to the Marietta chased by Judge D. W. Blair in 1902. Council of Garden Clubs and is open Judge Blair’s son Leon was once to the public. Hours: 10 AM–2 PM, mayor of Marietta. Mon., Wed., and Fri. 18. Ivy Grove (1843)—473 Cherokee 23. Hansell House (1849)— St. Built by Edward Denmead as the 435 Kennesaw Ave. Called Tranquilla centerpiece of his 1,800-acre planta- by its builder, Gen. Andrew J. Han - tion, which once encompassed much sell, the house narrowly escaped of the land north of Marietta to destruction during the Civil War. Kennesaw Mountain, the house has According to local legend, Mrs. undergone extensive remodeling Hansell stood on the front steps of through the years. the home as Union troops marched 19. Stephens-Sheram House by, brandishing a pistol and threat- (1919)—528 Church St. The fine ening to “shoot the first Yankee who craftsmanship of this home attests set foot on her property.” to the fact that the original owner, 24. McClellan-Birney House W. P. Stevens, was president of a (1853)—354 Kennesaw Ave. just north local lumber company. NR of the Holland St. intersection. This 20. McNeel-Hamrick House was the childhood home of Alice M. (1895)—331 Church St. This highly Birney, founder of the National Par- stylized Greek Revival house is a ent Teacher Association. The house good example of late 19th-century originally stood on Church St. just nostalgia for antebellum architec- south of Kennesaw Ave. 221 ture. For many years, it was the 25. Archibald Howell House home of Georgia Supreme Court Jus- (1848)—303 Kennesaw Ave. This clas- tice Harold Hawkins. sic Greek Revival home was built 21. McLaren Mills (1911)—Sessions by Howell, a Marietta businessman. at Roselane Sts. Built as the Cham- It served as headquarters to Gen. pion Knitting Mill, this distinctive red Henry M. Judah during the Federal brick complex has been adapted for occupation of Marietta in 1864. For use as offices and residential lofts. A several years after the war, the house AROUND ATLANTA was a private school for girls. 32. The Marlow House (1887)— 26. Tower Oaks (1882)—285 Ken- 192 Church St. This Victorian house nesaw Ave. Built by James R. Brumby, was built for Idelle Marlow, who founder of the Brumby Chair Com- operated it as a boarding house for pany, manufacturer of the famous more than 40 years. It is now a spe- Brumby Rocker, the house is an cial events facility. Information: 770- example of the Queen Anne style 426-1887; www.marlowhouse.com popular during the Victorian period. 33. First Presbyterian Church 27. Gignilliant-Cheek-Griffin (1854)—189 Church St. This red brick House (1840s)—243 Kennesaw Ave. church was a hospital for both Con- This frame antebellum home was federate and Union soldiers during originally constructed in the Planta- the fighting around Kennesaw tion Plain style by N. P. Gignilliant. In Mountain in 1864. The church’s sec- the late 1800s, it underwent extensive ond floor balcony was built as the remodeling and many of its Victorian slave gallery. features date to that time. 34. St. James Episcopal Church 28. Presbyterian Manse (1849)— (1965)—148 Church St. The present 262 Church St. This house served as structure replaced the original one, a residence for local Presbyterian built in 1842, that burned in 1964. ministers until it was sold in 1973. The chapel (1878) survived the fire. 29. The Stanley House (1895)— 35. Old Clarke Library (1893)— 236 Church St. Originally a summer 156 Church St. This octagonal brick cottage for Mrs. Felie Woodrow, an building was the city’s first library, aunt of Pres. Woodrow Wilson, this built from funds donated by Sarah restored Victorian home is a bed and Freeman Clarke. The building is cur- breakfast inn. rently vacant. 30. Slaton Hall (1851)—212 Church 36. William Root House (1845)— St. Built as a small shotgun house, Polk St. at Powder Springs Extension. the residence has been expanded Built by Root, Marietta’s first drug- many times. It was a boardinghouse gist, this typical Virginia Plantation for many years. Plain farmhouse is one of the oldest 31. Ardis House (1855)—202 Church structures in Marietta. It was moved 222 St. The residence has been remodeled to this location in 1990 and has many times since being built by been restored by Cobb Landmarks David Ardis, a plantation owner and and Historical Society as a museum. board member of nearby Georgia Hours: 11 AM–4 PM, Tues.–Sat. Military Institute. It has been most Information: 770-426-4982; www. recently occupied by an insurance cobblandmarks.com agency. The columned portico and 37. Edmunston-Law-Ladd House second story porch are notable. (1872)—60 Polk St. This rambling Vic- Historic Marietta torian house has originally built in been restored as the the Greek Revival Sixty Polk Street Bed style by Judge David & Breakfast Inn. Irwin. Confederate 38. Replica of Gen. W. W. Loring 1837 Log Church was headquartered (2008)—Polk St. here during the west of Powder Civil War fighting Springs St. Mari- around Kennesaw etta’s first Meth - Mountain. odist congregation 43. Old Zion was organized in Baptist Church 1833 and this build- (1888)—Lemon and ing is a faithful Haynes Sts. This replica of the first church was estab- sanctuary erected by Park Street lished by freed slaves the church in 1837. shortly after the Civil 39. Episcopal War. The simple Church Cemetery (1849)—Winn St. brick building was constructed in at Polk St. This cemetery is the burial 1888. ground for many families from the 44. Schilling-Prosser House area. (1887)—Washington Ave. at Haynes 40. Oakmont (1875)—38 Oakmont St. This ornate Victorian house, built Dr. This was the post-Civil War home by hardware store owner Frederick of Gov. Joseph M. Brown (1908–10, Schilling, contains attorneys’ offices. son of Confederate governor Joseph 45. Henry G. Cole House (1861)— E. Brown). The site was previously 288 Washington Ave. New York native occupied by Kennesaw Hall (c. 1840), Henry Cole donated a portion of his the home of Gov. Charles McDonald. property for the establishment of the Kennesaw Hall was burned by Union National Cemetery. Cole’s house, now troops in 1864. an attorney’s office, is directly oppo- 41. Glover-Blair-Anderson House site the entrance to the cemetery. (1851)—Whitlock Ave. at Wright St. 46. Marietta National Cemetery 223 Originally built in the Greek Revival (1866)—Entrance is at the corner of style by Mayor John H. Glover, the Washington Ave. and Cole St. The house was remodeled extensively in cemetery sits on land donated by the the Queen Anne style following a fire Cole family, loyal Unionists who in the 1870s. came to Marietta from the North 42. Oakton (1838)—581 Kennesaw before the Civil War. Many Federal Ave. This early Marietta house was soldiers who fell in the Atlanta Cam- AROUND ATLANTA paign are interred here. The cemetery School of Landscape Architecture at is the final resting place for soldiers the University of Georgia. Brumby from all the wars in which United Hall is owned by the City of Marietta States soldiers have fought, from the and is open to the public. Informa- Revolution to Iraq and Afghanistan. tion: 770-427-2500 The 23-acre burial ground is a beauti- 50. Marietta Conference Center ful, tree-shaded setting and atop the and Resort (1994)—500 Powder cemetery’s highest point is a marble Springs St. Occupying grounds that ceremonial rostrum erected in 1940. originally served as the campus of Hours: 8 AM–5 PM, daily. Informa- the Georgia Military Institute and tion: 770-428-5631. later as the Marietta Country Club, 47. Lucius Clay House (1880s)— the conference center includes a 200- 351 Atlanta St. This large Victorian- room inn with meeting facilities, a style house was the boyhood home tennis center, and an 18-hole golf of Gen. Lucius D. Clay, son of Sen. course. Information: 770-427-2500 Alexander Clay. During World War II, Lucius Clay was deputy to Gen. SPECIAL FEATURES AND EVENTS George Marshall and later served as u Taste of Marietta—April military governor of West Germany u Theater in the Square presents during the Berlin airlift 1948–49. a variety of performances through- 48. Confederate Cemetery out the year. Information: 770-422- (1863) —Entrance is at corner of 8369; www.theatreinthesquare.com Powder Springs Ext. and Gross St. u The Marietta-Cobb Art Many Southern soldiers who died in Museum has a variety of exhibits the Battle at Chickamauga (Septem- throughout the year. Information: ber 1863) and during the Georgia 770-528-1444 campaign are buried here. The Con- Musical performances and craft federate Cemetery is a section of the shows are frequently held in Glover old Marietta Cemetery. Park during the warmer months. Fes- 49. Arnoldus Brumby Hall and tivals of particular interest include: Gardens (1851)—472 Powder Springs u Concerts in the Park—April– St. This raised cottage, built in the September 224 Greek Revival style, was home to u May-retta Daze Arts & Crafts Col. Brumby, superintendent of Festival—May Georgia Military Institute. The insti- u Fourth in the Park parade and tute occupied the grounds around fireworks—July the home from 1851 until 1864, when u Art in the Park—Labor Day the buildings were destroyed by Fed- u Harvest Square Arts and Crafts eral troops. The formal gardens at Festival—October Brumby Hall were designed in 1930 u Halloween Happenings— by Hubert B. Owens, founder of the October Historic Marietta

u Christmas on the Square— December u The Marietta Pilgrimage– Christmas home tour, sponsored by Cobb Landmarks and Historical Society—December u The Marietta Welcome Center has information on these and other upcoming events. Information: 770- 429-1115; www.mariettasquare.com u Armed Forces Festival at Dobbins Air Force Base—May. Information: 770-919-5055

NEARBY ATTRACTIONS u The “Big Chicken” (Kentucky Fried Chicken Restaurant)—local landmark at Cobb Pkwy. (U.S. 41) and Roswell St. u Cobb County Civic Center on South Marietta Pkwy. (GA 120) at Fairgrounds St. offers a variety of concerts, athletic events, and trade shows throughout the year. u Dobbins Air Force Base and Lockheed–Georgia Aircraft plant on Cobb Pkwy. u Whitewater and American Adventures Theme Parks—250 N. Cobb Pkwy. 770-424-9283

OTHER WALKS IN THE AREA #27 Silver Comet Trail: Mavell 225 Road to Floyd Road #29 Kennesaw Mountain National Battleﬁeld Park #48 CRNRA–Palisades West Unit AROUND ATLANTA C H A P T E R 2 7

terrain is gently rolling with a few Silver Comet small grades. Much of the route is shaded and there are rest areas with Trail: benches located at intervals along the entire length of the trail. Some Mavell Road busy road crossings are spanned by bridges or tunnels (a few of which to Floyd Road date to the original railroad), while pedestrian operated trafﬁc signals permit safe crossing at other road intersections.

DRIVING DIRECTIONS Travel via I-75 north to I-285 west, go 5.3 miles and exit on South LOCATION Cobb Dr. (exit 15) turning right About 15 miles northwest of down- (north). Turn left (west) on Cooper town. The starting point is the park- Lake Rd., then left (south) on Mavell ing area on Mavell Rd. Rd. The parking area is ahead on the GPS: N33.50.503/W84.31.037 left.

TRAIL DISTANCE Parking The section of the Silver At the east end, there are large park- Comet Trail proﬁled here is the ing areas at Mavell Rd. and Concord easternmost portion of the trail and Rd., with additional parking at the the closest to Atlanta. It is about Publix Shopping Center on the 4.2 miles in length each way. A hike East–West Connector east of Mavell 226 through Heritage Park to the Nature Rd. At the west end, parking is avail- Center will add 3 miles (1.5 miles each able behind the Silver Comet Depot way), while a hike to the Concord on Floyd Rd. Covered Bridge is a round-trip walk of .5 miles from the trail. PUBLIC TRANSPORTATION Cobb Community Transit TERRAIN (CCT) buses operate along Following the route of an South Cobb Dr. and the East–West abandoned railway line, the Connector, and connect to the Silver Comet Trail: Mavell Road to Floyd Road

Trail across bridget over East–West Connector

MARTA rail system. CCT: 770-727- uled service to New York City a few 4444; www.cobbdot.org months later. Freight trains continued to use the tracks for another BACKGROUND 20 years until that service, dramati- As you stroll, pedal, jog, or roll along cally affected by truck traffic on the the Silver Comet Trail’s thin ribbon interstate highways, stopped in 1989. of asphalt, you may hear the distant Before long, the abandoned and echo of a locomotive’s whistle and overgrown railway corridor appeared the clickity-clack of iron wheels. From as a scar on the landscape. the early days of the last century, this However, a few visionaries, was the route of freight and passen- observing the “rails-to-trails” move- ger trains of the Seaboard Air Line ment in other parts of the country Railroad. The trail is named for the (an effort to renovate abandoned Seaboard Air Line Railroad’s “Silver railway corridors as linear parks), Comet,” a luxury train complete with urged elected officials in Cobb, dining, observation, and Pullman Paulding, and Polk Counties to con- sleeper cars that followed this route sider converting the abandoned rail- as it carried passengers between New road right-of-way into a walking, York City, Atlanta, and Birmingham, bicycling, and jogging trail. In the 227 Ala., from 1947 until 1969. early 1990s, the Georgia Department During the 1960s, as more Ameri- of Transportation (GDOT) pur- cans chose to travel by automobile chased the land as a potential com- or airplane, passenger rail service muter rail corridor and endorsed its dramatically declined. After more interim use as a rail trail. than 20 years of service, the Silver In 1998, the PATH Foundation, a Comet ceased its daily run to Birm- nonprofit organization well known in ingham in April 1969 and its sched- Atlanta for its work on the Atlanta– AROUND ATLANTA Stone Mountain Greenway Trail, open daily from dawn to dusk. Infor- Chastain Park Trail (see #25), and the mation: Silver Comet Trail informa- Freedom Park Trail (see #9), entered tion is available from the PATH into an agreement with GDOT, Geor- Foundation: 404-875-7284; www. gia State Parks, and the three coun- pathfoundation.org. Maps and guides ties to turn the vision for a foot trail to the trail are available from PATH, into reality. Federal, state, and local at the Silver Comet Depot, or from funds, as well as generous private the Silver Comet Trail website: contributions, laid the foundation www.silvercometga.com. for the first work in constructing the trail that began outside the town HISTORICAL MARKERS of Hiram in July 1998. By 2001, more There are none along this sec- than 38 miles of the Silver Comet tion of the Silver Comet Trail, Trail had been completed, offering but one is nearby: an unbroken path from Smyrna west 1. Battle of Ruff’s Mill—Concord to Rockmart. By 2007, the Silver Rd. at Nickajack Creek Comet Trail was completed from Mavell Rd. in Smyrna to the Alabama NOTABLE PLACES state line, a distance of approxi- 1. Mavell Rd. Trailhead mately 61 miles. It continues as the (2001)—Mavell Rd. south Chief Ladiga Trail for another 33 miles of Nickajack Elementary School. to Anniston, Ala., offering an unbro- Currently the easternmost access ken path of nearly 100 miles. point to the trail, the site includes Widely recognized as a success of a parking area, outdoor amphithe- public and private cooperation and ater, picnic area, water fountains, as an excellent example of adaptive and depot-style restroom building. land reuse, the Silver Comet Trail is a 2. Bridge over East–West Con- popular destination for locals and vis- nector (2000)—Designed to resem- itors who enjoy a bit of history with a ble slice of wilderness in the shadow of an old railroad trestle, this 200-foot- the city. In 2003, the trail was recog- long bridge spans the busy 4-lane nized as a National Recreation Trail highway. 228 by the National Park Service. 3. Heritage Park—just west of the Adjacent to this section of the East–West Connector bridge. Two trail, Heritage Park protects Nicka- winding paths (one designed for jack Creek along with the wetlands handicap accessibility) descend from and surrounding forest. Well-main- the paved trail to the ruins of the tained paths, including a wooden Concord Woolen Mill and beyond, boardwalk across marshlands, wind along the banks of Nickajack Creek through the park and connect to the to the Nature Center and the Con- Silver Comet Trail. Hours: The trail is cord Covered Bridge. The park is a Silver Comet Trail: Mavell Road to Floyd Road

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3) AROUND ATLANTA haven for small until the 1870s when wildlife, especially it was purchased by birds that gather in Asbury Martin and the meadows and operated as Mar- wetlands near the tin’s Feed and Grain Nature Center. Co. He later relo- 4. Concord cated his business Woolen Mill Ruins and removed all the (c. 1890s)—Along the machinery from the banks of Nickajack building. The mill Creek. Built near the dam was demol- site of an earlier mill ished and only faint destroyed during the traces of the mill Civil War, this mill race remain. (Pri- thrived from the vate property) NR 1890s until its clo- Boardwalk on side trail through 7. Concord Cov- sure in 1912, turning Heritage Park ered Bridge (1872)— out cloth from cot- Concord Rd. at ton grown on nearby farms. Today, Nickajack Creek. Built shortly after the stabilized skeletons of the old mill the Civil War to replace an earlier building and office and traces of the bridge destroyed during the Battle of mill race, which brought water into Ruff’s Mill, July 3–4, 1864, the bridge the mill from the nearby creek, are all was constructed by Robert Daniel that remain. From the mill, a 1.5-mile and Martin Ruff to provide access to path on the left leads to the Heritage Ruff’s Mill. This is Atlanta’s last Park Nature Center. A shorter, .2-mile remaining covered bridge and is trail leads west along the creek to the open to automobile traffic. This area Concord Covered Bridge. is contained within the Concord 5. Heritage Park Nature Center Bridge–Ruff’s Mill National Historic (2001)—Fontaine and Nickajack Rds. District. NR This large wood and fieldstone pavil- 8. Rock House (c. 1900)—Concord ion provides exhibit spaces with his- Rd. above the bridge. This fieldstone 230 torical information about the area, house was built as a summer resi- along with covered picnic tables, dence by John Rice. His father, Z. A. restrooms, and parking. Rice, once owned Ruff’s Mill, and the 6. Ruff’s Mill and Miller’s House younger Rice lived here while he man- (c. 1850)—Concord Rd. at Nickajack aged mill operations. NR Creek. Visible through the thick 9. Hurt Rd. Tunnel (1947)— woods, Ruff’s Mill stands as it did Beneath Hurt Rd. This 50-foot-long during the Civil War. The mill was lighted tunnel was built by the operated by Martin Ruff from 1856 Seaboard Air Line Railroad so that Silver Comet Trail: Mavell Road to Floyd Road the Silver Comet could pass easily NEARBY ATTRACTIONS beneath busy Hurt Rd. u George Thompson Park— 10. Silver Comet Depot (c. 1905)— 570 Nickajack Rd., Mableton. Cobb 4342 Floyd Rd. at the trail intersec- County park offers recreation fields, tion. Built by the Seaboard Air Line picnic areas, lake with fishing pier, Railroad, the structure was once community center and other ameni- part of a small complex that ties. Information: 770-819-3215 included a freight depot. The build- u Robert Mable House Arts ing was later converted for use as a Center—5239 Floyd Rd., Mableton. general store and was once owned Built in 1843 by early settler Robert by the father of Georgia Gov. Roy Mable (namesake of the city of Barnes. From the late 1950s until its Mableton), the house served as a closure in 1975, it was owned and hospital during the 1864 Atlanta operated by Mr. Ward, who lived in campaign. Today, the preserved an adjacent small house. The build- house and grounds are part of the ing remained vacant for over 25 Cobb County Department of Parks, years. When planning for the Silver Recreation and Cultural Affairs, and Comet Trail began in the mid-1990s, include the Barnes Amphitheatre, an the building was purchased and outdoor performance venue with rehabilitated by the Cobb Depart- seating for 2,500. The complex hosts ment of Transportation. In 2001, it exhibitions, classes, performances was leased to the present owners and other activities throughout the who operate a bicycle and inline year. Information: 770-819-3275; skate sales, service, and rental busi- www.mablehouse.org ness. They also offer skate lessons and host group rides along the Silver OTHER WALKS IN THE AREA Comet Trail. Hours of operation vary #26 Historic Marietta by day and season. Information: 770- #28 Silver Comet Trail: Floyd 819-3279; www.silvercometdepot.com Road to Florence Road #29 Kennesaw Mountain SPECIAL FEATURES AND EVENTS National Battlefield Park u Mable House Arts Fest—May #49 CRNRA—Palisades East Unit u Silver Comet Trail Rides— 231 Various cycling organizations sponsor group rides along sections of the trail. Contact the Silver Comet Depot for information on upcoming activities. AROUND ATLANTA C H A P T E R 2 8

Cobb County’s Wild Horse Creek Silver Comet Park. The path skirts the northern edge of the town of Powder Springs, Trail: which offers shopping and dining. Floyd Road DRIVING DIRECTIONS Travel north on I-75 to I-285 to Florence West (toward Birmingham). Drive 5.8 miles and exit on South Cobb Dr. Road (exit 280) and turn right (north). In 1.3 miles, turn left on the East–West Connector and drive 5.7 miles to Floyd Rd. Turn left (south). The Sil- ver Comet Depot store and parking area will be ahead on the right. To LOCATION reach the parking area for the Flo- The starting point for this section rence Rd. trailhead, continue on the of the trail is located about 18 miles East–West Connector for 2.8 miles to northwest of downtown Atlanta. Powder Springs Rd. Turn left (south) The trek begins at the Silver Comet and travel 2.3 miles to Richard Depot on Floyd Rd. Sailors Pkwy. and turn right (west). GPS: N33.51.319/W84.35.372 Follow Sailors Pkwy. for 2 miles, crossing U.S. 78 and and continue TRAIL DISTANCE straight to the Florence Rd. trailhead This section of the Silver parking area ahead on the right. Comet Trail is about 7.3 miles. Parking 232 TERRAIN Trail parking is available at the Silver Following the route of the Comet Depot on Floyd Rd., at the old railroad bed, the path Carter Rd. connection to Wild Horse follows gentle grades as it winds Creek Park, in Powder Springs, and through increasingly residential at Florence Rd. and occasionally rural countryside between Floyd Rd. and Powder PUBLIC TRANSPORTATION Springs. A side-trail at the 4.4 mile Cobb Community Transit point leads north about 1.6 miles to (CCT) buses stop on the East Silver Comet Trail: Floyd Road to Florence Road

Lucille Creek side trail

West Connector near Floyd Rd. and end of the segment is a short dis- Powder Springs Rd. at the eastern tance from the historic community end of this section of the trail. CCT of Powder Springs. Following the buses link to the MARTA system at removal of the Cherokee on the Trail the Arts Center station near down- of Tears, the town was founded by town Atlanta. Information: 770-727- gold-seekers in 1838 as the village of 4444; www.cobbdot.org Springville. The name was changed in 1859 in recognition of the seven BACKGROUND different springs that were found in 233 This section of the Silver Comet the vicinity. Information about local Trail, the second segment of the 61- history is found on exhibit at the mile paved pathway linking the Seven Springs Museum in downtown Atlanta suburbs with the Chief Powder Springs Park. Ladiga Trail in Alabama, follows a Along the route, the Silver Comet gently rolling and meandering 7.3- Trail passes on a trestle high above mile route through suburban areas, Olley Creek and the Dogwood Coun- parks, and greenspaces. The western try Club golf course, and later over AROUND ATLANTA Noses Creek (named for a Cherokee to the boardwalk and paved path Chief). Near the western end, the through Lucille Creek wetlands and path intersects with the Lucille woodland areas. The trail ends in Creek Trail that follows a boardwalk Powder Springs. through the wetlands area to an end- 6. Trestle Bridge over U.S. 278— point in downtown Powder Springs. This elevated span crosses the busy 4-lane highway. NOTABLE PLACES 7. Florence Rd. Trailhead—The 1. Silver Comet Depot trailhead offers a covered picnic (1905)—4342 Floyd Rd. Orig- pavilion, restrooms, and parking. inally constructed by the Seaboard Air Line Railroad as a freight depot, SPECIAL FEATURES AND EVENTS the building was later used as a gen- Powder Springs hosts a variety of eral store. After sitting vacant for festivals and events during the many years, the structure was pur- year. Check the town’s website for chased by the Cobb County Depart- information. ment of Transportation. In 2001 it u The Silver Comet Depot hosts was leased to the operators of the group rides and events during the bicycle and outfitter shop to serve year. customers enjoying the nearby trail. u Southern Quilt Trail—Down- Hours of operation vary by day and town Powder Springs features color- season. Information: 770-819-3279; ful quilt graphics painted on the www.silvercometdepot.com exterior walls of several buildings. 2. Trestle Bridge over Olley Other communities in Georgia Creek—Overpass offers a panoramic have painted quilts on buildings, view of the creek and nearby Dog- forming the nucleus of the wood Country Club golf course. South ern Quilt Trail. Information: 3. Wild Horse Creek Trail www.southerquilttrail.com Access—A trail to the south of the Silver Comet leads 1.6 miles north to NEARBY ATTRACTIONS Cobb County’s Wild Horse Creek u Wild Horse Creek Park—This Park. 53-acre county park features recre- 234 4. Historic Powder Springs— ation fields, BMX track, tennis Access paths from the Silver Comet courts, and community center. Trail lead to this small community a short distance away that features OTHER WALKS IN THE AREA a variety of shops, restaurants, and #27 Silver Comet Trail: Mavell parks. Information: www.cityofpowder Road to Floyd Road springs.org #29 Kennesaw Mountain 5. Lucille Creek Trail—Steps lead National Battlefield Park down from the Silver Comet Trail #44 Sweetwater Creek State Park Silver Comet Trail: Floyd Road to Florence Road 1 3FTUSPPNT

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Kennesaw–Kolb Farm Loop— Kennesaw 16.2 miles

Mountain TERRAIN The Summit Trail and the National Pigeon Hill Loop Trail are fairly strenuous, involving an ascent Battleﬁeld of 650-foot-high Kennesaw Moun- tain, with ascents and descents over Park rocky terrain to lesser peaks on the latter trail. The trail from Burnt Hickory Rd. to Cheatham Hill is predominantly rolling terrain passing through thick pine forest and several open meadows. The return from LOCATION Cheatham Hill includes a gradual About 24 miles northwest of down- descent through a forested area town. The trail network begins behind that contains the ghostly remains of the Visitor Center. Information: several Confederate battlements. 770-427-4686; www.nps.gov/kemo Portions of this section of the trail GPS: N33.58.982/W84.34.722 system are level and graded, and they are popular with local joggers. TRAIL DISTANCE The trail from Cheatham Hill parking Distances listed are for round- area to Kolb Farm begins with a trips from the visitor center. gradual descent into a small valley The longer trails that cross Burnt followed by a fairly steep climb into Hickory, Dallas, or Powder Springs the hills beyond. The trail crosses 236 Rds. can be used to divide the trails Cheatham Hill Rd. and soon passes into shorter segments. through a large open meadow. Kennesaw Mountain Summit After reentering the forest, the trail Trail—2 miles descends fairly steeply to a foot- Kennesaw–Little Kennesaw– bridge crossing John Ward Creek. Pigeon Hill Loop—5.1 miles It passes intermittently through for- Kennesaw–Cheatham Hill Loop— est and ﬁeld for the remaining dis- 10.2 miles tance to Kolb Farm. The return trail crosses an open pasture along Pow- Kennesaw Mountain National Battlefield Park

Cheatham Hill artillery battery der Springs Rd. before retreating PUBLIC TRANSPORTATION back into deep woods, then the trail Cobb Community Transit winds through the forest on a grad- (CCT) buses operate from ual ascent back to Cheatham Hill. Marietta (about 1 mile south) and A daylong hike of the entire loop connect with the MARTA rail system. is a strenuous trip, and advanced CCT: 770-427-4444; www.cobbdot.com planning is encouraged regarding weather, water, footwear, and physi- BACKGROUND cal conditioning. Within six weeks of his early May 1864 departure from Chattanooga, Tenn., DRIVING DIRECTIONS Union Gen. William Tecumseh Sher- Travel north from downtown man stood poised on the outskirts of on I-75 to GA Hwy. 5 (exit 269), then Atlanta. Opposing his advance were west on Barrett Pkwy. At Old U.S. 41, the determined Confederate defend- turn left (south) and drive approxi- ers of Gen. Joseph E. Johnston’s mately 1.5 miles to the visitor center. valiant Army of Tennessee. By mid-June, the Rebels prepared Parking to halt Sherman’s relentless south- A large parking area serves the visitor ward march by digging in along Ken- center, and there is another at Chea - nesaw Mountain’s ridges and 237 tham Hill. Some limited parking summit. Like a sentinel guarding the lies adjacent to Kolb Farm. Just northern approach to the city, Ken- below the summit, a small parking nesaw Mountain offered Johnston a area is open to private vehicles only formidable defensive position while when the free shuttle bus from the presenting Sherman with a serious visitor center is not operating. The dilemma. shuttle operates 8:30 AM–5 PM on Sherman debated whether to flank weekends. the Confederates, as he had success- AROUND ATLANTA fully done in northwest diversionary attacks Georgia, or unleash a with Gen. James B. frontal assault on the McPherson’s Army of mountain fortress. the Tennessee on the Both he and Johnston north and Schofield were keenly aware of on the south. Simulta- the strategic impor- neously, Gen. George tance of Atlanta, and H. Thomas’s Army of each was prepared to the Cumberland— fight desperately for nearly 60,000 strong— the city. would strike the center Sherman chose the like a battering ram. former strategy and The attacks began dispatched troops of Paved trail below summit early in the morning Gen. John M. Scho - of June 27, 1864, as field’s Army of the McPherson’s artillery Ohio southward on June 22, 1864, shelled the mountain prior to an with orders to circle around the infantry assault up the steep, rocky Rebel flank and head for the rail line slopes near Pigeon Hill. At the same below Marietta. Johnston, anticipat- time, Schofield’s troops poured can- ing this move, quick-marched Gen. non and musket fire into the Rebel John B. Hood, in command of 11,000 positions along Powder Springs Rd. men, toward the Powder Springs Rd. On signal, Thomas’s troops emerged to bolster the southern flank. Late in from the woods and literally ran the afternoon, Hood attacked along uphill toward the Confederate posi- a mile-long front, with the fiercest tion held by hardened veterans fighting centered on Peter Kolb’s under the command of Gen. Patrick farmhouse. By dark, the badly Cleburne and Gen. Benjamin Cheat - mauled Confederates withdrew to ham. The Rebel guns remained eerily their lines. Despite suffering heavy silent as wave upon wave of blue- casualties, they succeeded in thwart- coats dashed from their cover. Then, ing Sherman’s plan, forcing him to with the first line of Federals only 238 consider an assault on the mountain. yards from their objective, the Con- The Union leaders firmly believed federates opened up with all the that Johnston’s line was too long to rifles and artillery they had. Like be defended adequately by the num- freshly hewn wheat, hundreds of ber of troops under his command, Yanks fell, killed outright or griev- and they developed a strategy to ously wounded. expose the Rebels’ weakness, breach Within moments the attack the positions, and cut the Rebel army turned into a massacre. Union sol- in two. Sherman planned to create diers who succeeded in reaching the Kennesaw Mountain National Battlefield Park Confederate lines were quickly cap- an excellent trail map clearly identi- tured or killed. Among those who fies points of interest. died there was Col. Dan McCook, Sherman’s former law partner. After HISTORICAL MARKERS only a few hours, it was clear that Several markers are located the plan had failed miserably, and at along the foot trails, while Thomas’s urging, Sherman finally others are a short distance called off the assault. away along roadsides. Consult the In an interesting footnote to his- map for marker locations. tory, a Union soldier wounded in the 1. Johnston’s Line East of Kenne- battle was so affected by his experi- saw—Old U.S. 41, 0.5 mile east of the ence that he named his son after the park’s entrance mountain. The boy, Kenesaw Moun- 2. Peachtree Trail—west of visitor tain Landis, would become a judge center entrance on Old U.S. 41 and the first commissioner of Major 3. Federal 15th Corps—Old U.S. 41 League Baseball. near the northern boundary of the After spending three days park regrouping, Sherman provisioned 4. Kennesaw Battlefield—Burnt McPherson’s Army of the Tennessee Hickory Rd. at Old Mountain Rd. for extended field maneuvers and, 5. General J. E. Johnston’s Head- under cover of darkness, dispatched quarters—Burnt Hickory Rd. east of it southward toward the Chatta- Old Mountain Rd. hoochee River. With his rear now 6. Logan’s 15th A. C. Line—Burnt threatened, Johnston was forced to Hickory Rd. west of Old Mountain Rd. abandon his position and retreat to 7. General Leonidas Polk’s Head- his river line. The fighting at Kenne- quarters—Burnt Hickory Rd. west of saw Mountain was over. Old Mountain Rd. Today, the National Park Service 8. General O. O. Howard’s Head- maintains a network of foot trails quarters—Burnt Hickory Rd. west of through the Kennesaw Mountain Old Mountain Rd. National Battlefield Park. The trails 9. Kennesaw Spur—Burnt Hickory trace a 16-mile loop from the visitor Rd. east of Old Mountain Rd. center to Kolb Farm and back, wind- 10. Federal Troops Occupy Mari- 239 ing over the mountain summits, etta—Burnt Hickory Rd. at Dallas Rd. across open meadows, and through 11. Cheatham Hill—Dallas Rd. at the marshy creek bottoms that today the park’s entrance to Cheatham Hill remain much as they were when the 12. Federal, Confederate Lines, soldiers came through nearly 150 June 22, 27, 1864—Dallas Rd. at John years ago. The staff at the visitor Ward Rd. center offers guidance on planning 13. Five Federal Brigades— long or short walks in the park, and Cheatham Hill Rd. between John AROUND ATLANTA Ward Rd. and Powder Springs Rd. Kennesaw Mountain. On the night 14. McCook’s Brigade— of June 19, 1864, Confederate sol- Cheatham Hill Rd. between John diers—100 per gun—pulled nine can- Ward Rd. and Powder Springs Rd. nons up the steep rocky slopes to 15. General George H. Thomas’ this summit. Four guns serve as a Headquarters—Cheatham Hill Rd. reminder of their determination. between John Ward Rd. and Powder 4. Pigeon Hill Breastworks— Springs Rd. The marker is at the Beneath the rock-strewn ridge, Con- point where the footpath crosses federate trenches are still clearly Cheatham Hill Rd. visible. This area received the brunt 16. Battle of Kolb’s Farm, June 22, of the attack by McPherson’s troops 1864—Cheatham Hill Rd. at the on June 27, 1864. A marker records Noses Creek bridge that in a particular area, Missouri- 17. Battle of Kolb’s Farm, June 22, ans—Confederate and Union— 1864—Powder Springs Rd. at battled each other. Cheatham Hill Rd. 5. Youth Museum—adjacent to 18. Battle of Kolb’s Farm, June 22, the Cheatham Hill parking area. 1864—Powder Springs Rd. at Mt. The building houses exhibits on Zion Church. the history of Cobb County. Open 19. William G. McAdoo’s Birth- by appointment. Information: 770- place—west of Kolb Farm on Powder 427-2563 Springs Rd. 6. Confederate Battlements 20. Powder Springs Road—June, (1864)—Cheatham Hill. These fortifi- July 1864–east of Kolb Farm on Pow- cations were constructed early in the der Springs Rd. summer of 1864 and mark the focal point of Gen. George Thomas’s June NOTABLE PLACES 27 assault. 1. Visitor Center (1999)— 7. Illinois Monument (1914)— Stilesboro Rd. at Old U.S. 41. Cheatham Hill. Erected by Illinois The recently renovated and expanded veterans of the battle in commemo- facility houses a large museum, the- ration of its 50th anniversary, the ater, and gift shop. The mountaintop monument is dedicated to their com- 240 shuttle departs from here on week- rades who died on the field. Nearby ends. Hours: 8:30 AM–5 PM, daily. is the grave of a solitary Union sol- Information: 770-427-4686 dier, unearthed by workers restoring 2. Kennesaw Mountain Summit the site in the 1930s. The soldier’s Plaza—above summit parking area. name was unknown until 2009, when This stone plaza offers panoramic a park volunteer completed five years views of the surrounding countryside. of research to confirm his identity as 3. Little Kennesaw Mountain and Pvt. Mark Carr of Indiana. “Fort McBride”—summit of Little 8. Kolb Farm (1836)—Cheatham Kennesaw Mountain National Battlefield Park

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GPS: N 33. 58. 982 W 84. 34. 722 Summit Trail 2 miles R/T Cheatham Hill Loop 10.2 miles R/T Pigeon Hill Loop 5.1 miles R/T Kolb Farm Loop 16.2 miles R/T AROUND ATLANTA Hill Rd. at Powder Springs Rd. Built contains exhibitions and old railroad by Peter Kolb, this simple log house cars that visitors may explore. was occupied by his son’s widow at u Smith Gilbert Gardens—Pine the time of the battle. The house was Mountain Rd. This 16-acre public briefly used by Union Gen. Joseph garden includes the antebellum Hooker as a headquarters and was Roberts’ family plantation home, filled with sharpshooters during now used for special events. The gar- Hood’s assault. The house was heav- dens are also noted for sculptures ily damaged in the fighting but the located around the grounds. Infor- family repaired it after the war. mation: 770-919-0248 Owned by the National Park Service, u Pickett’s Mill State Historic the house is used as staff quarters Site—2640 Mt. Tabor Church Rd., and is not currently open to the pub - Dallas. Considered the best-pre- lic. The Kolb family’s small graveyard served Civil War battlefield in the adjoins the house. country, Pickett’s Mill is the site of 9. Site of Civilian Conservation a fierce confrontation that followed Corps (CCC) Camp—The CCC was a the Battle of New Hope Church. New Deal agency established to pro- Hours: 9 AM–5 PM, Wed.–Sat.; 2 PM vide work in forests and parks for –5 PM, Sun. Information: 770-443- unemployed men during the Depres- 7850; www.gastateparks.org sion. A few ruins are still visible from u Southern Museum of Civil War the camp located here 1939–42. and Civil War History—Cherokee St., Kennesaw. The museum contains SPECIAL FEATURES AND EVENTS Civil War and local history exhibi- u Programs: The Park Service tions. The main feature is the steam sponsors a variety of interpretive locomotive, the General, stolen by programs during the year. Informa- James J. Andrews’ Union Raiders in tion: 770-427-4686 April 1862 and driven north in the u Big Shanty Festival activities famous Great Locomotive Chase. commemorate the April 12, 1862, The Confederates captured the Gen- Great Locomotive Chase—April eral near Ringgold, Ga., after pursu- ing the raiders in a series of engines. 242 NEARBY ATTRACTIONS The last—the Texas—went full throttle u Historic Marietta Square and up the tracks in reverse! The Texas is Commercial District (see #26) displayed at the Cyclorama in Grant u Marietta National Cemetery Park (see #7). Information: 770-427- (see #26) 2117; www.southernmuseum.org u Old Marietta Cemetery (see #26) u Old Railroad Depot (late OTHER WALKS IN THE AREA 1800s)—across Cherokee St. from the #26 Historic Marietta Southern Museum. The building #27 Silver Comet Trail: Mavell Road to Floyd Road AROUND ATLANTA C H A P T E R 3 0

Center and climbs moderately into Chattahoochee the mixed forest hillside and along Beaver Pond. The trail connects with Nature Center the Beaver Pond Trail and beyond to the Homestead, Forest, and King- ﬁsher Pond trails that climb, at times steeply, through the hills above the river. The River Boardwalk Trail is a level, easy walk that follows a wooden boardwalk. This trail provides a close- up view of the Chattahoochee River and the marsh environment.

DRIVING DIRECTIONS LOCATION Travel I-285 to GA 400 north to About 17 miles north of downtown. Northridge Rd. (exit 6), then west on The hike begins at the Discovery Northridge Rd. to Roswell Rd., north Center. across the Chattahoochee River, left GPS: N34.00.270/W 84.22.950 (west) on Azalea Dr. to Willeo Rd., and left (south) on Willeo Rd. The TRAIL DISTANCE Nature Center is about 0.5 mile on the The Woodland Trail, consist- right at 9135 Willeo Rd. Or travel I-75 ing of the Forest Trail, Home- to GA 120 (exit 263), also called Mari- stead Trail, Kingﬁsher Pond Trail, etta Pkwy., east to Lower Roswell Rd., and Stone Cabin Trail, is about 0.75 then east on Lower Roswell Rd. about mile long and roughly forms a ﬁgure 10 miles to Willeo Rd. eight. The Wetlands Trail is about 0.5 mile long, and the loop past Parking 243 Beaver Pond adds about 0.75 mile to Parking is available in the lot adja- the Woodland Trail hike. Guided cent to the Discovery Center. walks are offered at 1 PM and 3 PM, Sat.; and 1, 2, and 3 PM, Sun. PUBLIC TRANSPORTATION Regular MARTA bus service TERRAIN runs along Roswell Rd. (#85 The Stone Cabin Trail begins Roswell/Mansell Rd.), which is just north of the Discovery about 2 miles east of the center. The AROUND ATLANTA

Nature Center guide with kids

bus route begins at the North expanded to include many of the for- Springs rail station. MARTA: 404- mer camp buildings (adapted for use 848-5000; www.itsmarta.com as classrooms), offices, a nature store, Beaver and Heron Ponds, and BACKGROUND activity buildings for Camp King- The Chattahoochee Nature Center fisher summer day camp. The origi- (CNC) is an oasis of wilderness in an nal main building overlooking area of Atlanta where development Kingfisher Pond is now a lakeside and change have been the watch- pavilion for observing wildlife and words. Visitors relax beside the waterfowl. Nearby are a wildlife river’s banks, hike along its nature rehabilitation clinic, a raptor aviary, trails, browse through its various and ponds for observing waterfowl, exhibitions, and enjoy classes on a insects, and other creatures. variety of nature-related topics. In 2009, CNC opened the state- Established in 1976 as a nonprofit of-the-art, environmentally friendly organization dedicated to educating Discovery Center featuring interac- people about the natural environ- tive exhibits about the river water- 244 ment and preserving the river’s frag- shed, its flora and fauna, and its ile ecosystem, the CNC began on value to the community. In addition, a parcel of land purchased from the center houses classrooms and Horace Holden, owner of the adja- workshop spaces. cent Camp Chattahoochee property. The expanded property offers More land was acquired in 1986, and many trails to explore. Five of the in 1992 Holden sold the remaining Center’s interconnected nature trails property to the center. In 1998, Chat- (Stone Cabin, Beaver Pond, King- tahoochee Nature Center facilities fisher Pond, Homestead, and Forest Chattahoochee Nature Center Trails) lead into the forested hillside to expand their knowledge of the adjacent to the center, past the environment. A variety of weekly pro- remains of an early 20th-century grams and guided trail walks are cabin, along the edges of small open to the public. Special programs ponds, and beside a 19th-century are offered each Sunday at 2 PM. graveyard. Part of the trail is believed The Chattahoochee River has to follow the path of the historic been a valuable resource for the Hightower (Etowah) Trail used for entire region since the days when centuries by Native Americans as a Creek and Cherokee paddled these trade and travel route. The River waters in canoes and built villages Boardwalk Trail, across Willeo Rd., along its banks. The center is com- follows a wooden boardwalk along mitted to the preservation of the the riverbank and into Redwing river as the ancient inhabitants may Marsh bordering the Chattahoochee have known it. Visitors to the Chat- River. Each trail offers a glimpse into tahoochee Nature Center pay a different woodland zones. The first small admission fee, and annual five follow paths through a southern memberships are available. Hours: Appalachian forest filled with oaks, 9 AM–5 PM, Mon.–Sat.; 12 PM–5 PM, hickories, and evergreens—an ideal Sun. Information: 770-992-2055; habitat for hawks, woodpeckers, www.chattnaturecenter.com jays, squirrels, opossums, and raccoons. The marsh’s boardwalk winds HISTORICAL MARKERS into a watery world of cattails, There is one marker near the birches, and river weeds. Chattahoochee Nature Cen- Telltale signs of wildlife abound: ter. paw prints of beaver, raccoon, or 1. Garrard’s Cavalry At Roswell— muskrat in the soft mud; dens or about 0.75 mile west of the center at dams built from sticks and grasses; Willeo and Lower Roswell Rds. and a vast assortment of birds—from kingfishers, red-winged blackbirds, NOTABLE PLACES and swallows to ducks, geese, and an 1. Discovery Center (2009)— occasional heron. The center provides The Center offers interactive pamphlets and activity day-packs exhibits about the Chattahoochee 245 describing sights along each trail. River watershed and its many The Chattahoochee Nature Cen- resources. The structure is a U.S. ter’s trail system is an important Green Building Council LEED (Lead- component of a well-developed ership in Energy Efficient Design) series of educational programs that certified building. reach over 50,000 schoolchildren 2. Administration and Education each year. Continuing education Building (1970s–98)—Built originally classes draw many teachers seeking as the Camp Chattahoochee gymna- AROUND ATLANTA sium, the building now houses cen- ed on the old site of the original Dis- ter offices and classrooms. covery Center built in 1971, the pavilion 3. Old Stone Cabin (c. 1940s)— provides an ideal setting for observing Stone Cabin Trail. This small, rustic wildlife around Kingfisher Pond. cabin overlooks Beaver Pond. It is 10. Wildlife Rehabilitation Clinic— used for group gatherings and classes. behind the Discovery Center. This 4. Bonnie Baker Butterfly Gar- clinic provides rehabilitation services dens (1990s)—Filled with plants that for injured wild animals. It is not offer habitats for caterpillars and open to the public. nectar to attract butterflies, the garden is a place to observe these SPECIAL FEATURES AND EVENTS winged creatures. In addition to regularly scheduled 5. Aviaries—Hawks, owls, eagles, classes, workshops, and guided and other large birds that cannot be walks, the Chattahoochee Nature returned to the wild are housed and Center presents special programs on cared for in the aviaries adjacent to a wide variety of topics throughout the Lakeside Pavilion. the year. Volunteers may participate 6. Camille Creamer Beaver in implementing educational and Habitat (2001)—This aquatic exhibit wildlife rehabilitation programs. offers an opportunity to view To view the large schedule of events beavers in their pond habitat. at CNC, visit its website, www. 7. Cemetery and Cabin Site— chattnaturecenter.org. Forest Trail. Nestled in the trees is a small cemetery believed to be the NEARBY ATTRACTIONS family burial ground of the William u Chattahoochee River Park— Kelpen family, owners of the land This City of Roswell park offers pic- before the Civil War. The one read- nic tables, playgrounds, swimming, able tombstone indicates the grave and fishing. Units of the park are holds the remains of Kelpen’s son located on Azalea and Willeo Drs. Charles, who left his job at nearby The park is headquarters for the Roswell Mill in 1863 at age 17 to join Atlanta Rowing Club. Park informa- the Confederate Army and died in tion: 770-640-3055. Rowing Club: 770- 246 Augusta, Ga., in early 1864. A nearby 993-1879 stone chimney marks the site of a u Roswell Historic District and mid-20th century vacation cabin. shopping area 8. Marsh Observation Plat- forms—across Willeo Rd. from the OTHER WALKS IN THE AREA main building. These wooden plat- #31 Historic Roswell forms allow the visitor an overview #53 CRNRA–Gold Branch Unit of the marsh and the river. #54 CRNRA–Vickery Creek Unit 9. Lakeside Pavilion (1971)—Locat- #55 CRNRA–Island Ford Unit

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DRIVING DIRECTIONS Historic Travel I-285 to GA 400, north to Northridge Rd. (exit 6), west to Roswell Roswell Rd., then north on Roswell Rd. across the Chattahoochee River. The town square lies about 1 mile farther up the bluffs. Or travel I-75 to GA 120 (exit 263 if northbound, exit 265 if southbound), then east about 10 miles.

Parking Limited parking is available behind the welcome center, along the square, on side streets, and at the LOCATION Historic Roswell Mill shopping area. About 20 miles north of downtown. The trail begins at the Roswell Visitor PUBLIC TRANSPORTATION Center (Old City Hall) at 617 Atlanta Roswell is served by MARTA St. buses (#85 Roswell/Mansell GPS: N34.00.925/W84.21.769 Rd.) on a regular schedule. A bus stop is located adjacent to the TRAIL DISTANCE square on Atlanta St. These buses The trail is about 4.5 miles are served by the North Springs rail long, and a hike down to the station. MARTA: 404-848-5000; mill ruins in Vickery Creek Park will www.itsmarta.com add about 0.5 mile. 248 BACKGROUND TERRAIN In the early 1830s, Roswell King, a The area sits on a plateau successful planter from coastal above the Chattahoochee Georgia, was sent by the Bank of River, and the walk is on fairly level Darien, Ga., to the United States ground except for the steep descent Mint in Dahlonega, Ga. The mint to Vickery Creek Dam. Sidewalks had been recently established to line many streets and are in good produce gold coins from the rich condition. goldfields and goldmines of the sur- Historic Roswell rounding mountains. King was to house them. In the village were charged with evaluating the pro - several buildings of attached spects of setting up a branch bank in dwellings. Known as The Bricks, two the gold rush town. of these structures are still standing En route from his coastal planta- and are believed to be the first mill tion, King paused briefly on the workers’ apartments built in the rugged bluffs overlooking the Chat- South; they are possibly the oldest tahoochee River. The natural beauty employer-provided housing in con- of the lush, forested hills and the tinuous use in the nation. abundant fresh water overwhelmed In the early 1840s, several families him, and he vowed to return some- used wealth earned from the mills to day and settle in the area. begin construction of large mansions A few years after King’s first near the town square: Barrington glimpse of this land, which was part Hall (Barrington King); Phoenix Hall, of the Cherokee Nation, the Chero- which is now called Mimosa Hall kee were removed to Oklahoma on (John Dunwody); and Bulloch Hall the infamous Trail of Tears (1838) (James Bulloch) all still stand. In 1853, and the territory was opened for set- James Bulloch’s daughter, Martha, tlement. King persuaded several married a young man from New York friends from Darien, Savannah, and named Theodore Roosevelt. Two of St. Marys, Ga., to join him, and in their children were Teddy Roosevelt, 1839, at the age of 64, Roswell King, 26th president of the United States, along with his son, Barrington, and and Elliott, whose daughter, Eleanor, six pioneer families founded a com- married her cousin Franklin D. Roo- munity, naming it Roswell in honor sevelt. In 1905, Pres. Teddy Roosevelt of the man whose vision had came to visit his mother’s home and brought them there. was feted by the town with a parade Roswell and Barrington King built and other festivities. a cotton mill on the northern bank During the Civil War, the Roswell of the Chattahoochee River. Incor- Manufacturing Company was a major porated in 1840 as the Roswell Man- supplier of cloth goods to the Confed- ufacturing Company, the mill soon eracy, and the Ivy Woolen Mill on the expanded its operations with the banks of the Chattahoo chee south 249 purchase of an old grist mill in the of town produced high-quality uni- nearby small village of Lebanon. The form wool known as “Roswell Grey.” grist mill, located on Cherokee land, Destruction of these mills was one of had been operated by brothers the objectives of the Union Army dur- Archibald and Clark Howell since ing the 1864 Atlanta campaign. 1832. As the complex grew, more In early July 1864, the Confeder- workers came to Roswell, and the ates waged a fighting retreat from company constructed a mill village Kennesaw Mountain, and troops AROUND ATLANTA

Canton Street stores

under command of Capt. James R. were arrested for treason, loaded on King, grandson of Roswell King, bat- trains in Marietta, and sent north to tled with Union Cavalry in the hills prison. Most of the prisoners never and bluffs around the town. The returned to the state. Rebels were finally forced back, and Fortunately, the Federal cavalry they burned the bridge across the spared the homes and several com- Chattahoochee (on the site of the mercial buildings around the square. present Roswell Rd. bridge) before Today, Roswell has one of the largest retreating to Atlanta’s defenses. concentrations of pre–Civil War On July 6, 1864, Gen. Kenner Gar- structures in the Atlanta area. After rard’s cavalry, under orders from the war, the mills were rebuilt and Gen. William T. Sherman to capture expanded, and they served as Ros - and destroy the mills, occupied well’s economic base for another Roswell. The superintendent of the half century before being destroyed 250 Ivy Woolen Mill, Theophil Roche, a second time in a devastating 1926 flew a French flag in a futile attempt fire. In 1932, Roswell’s ties to Atlanta to claim neutrality. Garrard dis- were strengthened when Fulton patched a note to Sherman: “Over County’s boundaries were expanded the woolen factory the French flag to include the town and all of sur- was flying, but seeing no Federal flag rounding Milton County (est. 1857). above it, I had the building burnt. Today, Roswell is a booming resi- All are burnt. . .” Roche, and most of dential community that retains the the mill workers (including women) charm of its antebellum roots. Due Historic Roswell to its historic and architectural sig- Information: 800-776-7935, www. nificance, the Roswell Historic Dis- visitroswellga.com trict is on the National Register of 2. Roswell Square (1839)—Atlanta Historic Places. Information: 800- and Sloan Sts., Marietta Hwy., and 776-7935; www.visitroswellga.com Mimosa Blvd. This landscaped square is part of the original town HISTORICAL MARKERS plan and reflects the New England 1. Memorial To Roswell’s roots of Roswell King. In a 1905 visit Founding Families—around to his mother’s home, Pres. fountain in town square Theodore Roosevelt gave a speech 2. Centennial of The Founding from the square’s bandstand. Of Roswell—in the square 3. Roswell Business District 3. Bulloch Hall—Bulloch Ave. at (1839–1900)—Atlanta St. on the east- Mimosa Blvd. ern edge of the square. These store- 4. Barrington Hall—GA 120 across fronts retain the character and flavor from the square of the antebellum mill town. Today, 5. Roswell Presbyterian Church— the buildings house a variety of retail Mimosa Blvd. in front of the church businesses. 6. Francis Robert Goulding— 4. Barrington Hall (1842)— Goulding St. in front of the Goulding 60 Marietta St. This Greek Revival– House style structure was built for the 7. Roswell’s Distinguished Men— town’s cofounder, Barrington King. Presbyterian Church Cemetery on Prominent features include 14 Doric N. Atlanta St. columns and a broad piazza. The 8. The Old Bricks—Sloan St. at house was badly damaged by a 1989 Mill St. fire but has been fully restored. It is 9. Roswell Factory—Sloan St. and open for tours 10 AM–3 PM, Mon.– Mill St. Sat.; 1–3 PM, Sun. Information: 770- 10. Garrard’s Cavalry and New- 640-3855; www.barringtonhall-roswell. ton’s Division—Riverside Rd. just org. NR west of Roswell Rd. on north side of 5. The Dolvin House (1860)— the Chattahoochee River 138 Bulloch Ave. In the 1890s, this simple frame house was extensively 251 NOTABLE PLACES remodeled in the Queen Anne style. 1. Roswell Visitor Center Of particular note is the large circu- (1839)—617 Atlanta St. Origi- lar porch. The owner, Emily Dolvin nally built as the Roswell Manufac- Visscher, was the aunt of Pres. Jimmy turing Co. commissary, the building Carter. Carter stayed in the home served for many years as City Hall. several times during his presidency Hours: 9 AM–5 PM, Mon.–Fri.; 10 and the residence was dubbed the AM–4 PM, Sat.; 12 PM–4 PM, Sun. “Roswell White House.” AROUND ATLANTA 6. Bulloch Hall (1842)—180 Bulloch King’s widowed daughter, Eliza King Ave. This Greek Revival–style mansion Hand, this New England cottage was built for Roswell pioneer James S. is one of the oldest structures in Bulloch. His daughter, Martha “Mit- Roswell. Especially interesting is the tie” Bulloch, married Theodore Roo- hand-turned banister fence along the sevelt in the dining room in 1853. The front yard. The Roswell Presbyterian house is owned by the City of Roswell Church was organized here in 1839. and administered by the Roswell His- Today the house is a special events toric Preservation Commission. Both facility. Information: 770-594-2299 the house and the grounds are open 10. Roswell Presbyterian Church to the public, and a small museum (1840)—755 Mimosa Blvd. Designed in contains artifacts from the Union the Greek Revival style, this wooden occupation of Roswell in 1864. The building was the first church con- house may be rented for group func- structed in Roswell. The tower still tions and is popular for weddings. contains its original bell, which was Hours: 10 AM–3 PM, Mon.–Sat.; made in Philadelphia in 1827. During 1–3 PM, Sun. Information: 770-992- the Atlanta Campaign, the building 1731; www.bullochhall.org NR was used as a hospital for Union 7. Mimosa Hall (1847)—127 Bul- troops. The church contains a history loch Ave. This Greek Revival house room, which may be seen by appoint- was built for James Dunwody and ment. Information: 770-993-6316 originally called Phoenix Hall. This 11. Great Oaks (1842)—786 is the second house by that name Mimosa Blvd. Built of clay bricks on this site, as the original burned made on the banks of the Chatta- shortly after its completion, during hoochee River, Great Oaks was the Dunwody’s housewarming party. In home of Dr. Nathaniel Pratt, first 1869, the Hansell family purchased minister of the Roswell Presbyterian the house and renamed it Mimosa Church. Gen. Garrard briefly used Hall. The house resembles its neigh- this house as his headquarters fol- bor, Bulloch Hall. Atlanta architect lowing Roswell’s capture in 1864. Neel Reid acquired the house in 1918 12. Teaching Museum North and lived here until his death in 1926. (1930s)—793 Mimosa Blvd. Located 252 8. Holly Hill (1847)—632 Mimosa in a Depression-era annex to Roswell Blvd. This house was built for Robert Elementary School (now Crossroads A. Lewis, a Savannah cotton factor. Center), the museum contains ex hi - A raised cottage-style house more bits on the social, cultural, and politi- typical of the coastal area, it was cal history of Georgia and the nation. used primarily as a summer retreat. The building is located on the site of Six Doric columns grace the front. the city’s first school, the Ros well 9. Primrose Cottage (1839)— Academy. Hours: 8 AM–4 PM, Mon.– 674 Mimosa Blvd. Built for Roswell Fri. Information: 770-552-6339 Historic Roswell

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D GPS: W 34. 00. 925 N 84. 21. 769 AROUND ATLANTA 13. Minhinnett House (c. 1850)— 19. Broadwell House (1910)— 815 Mimosa Blvd. This small frame 1033 Canton St. Constructed of house was built for Francis Minhin- Stone Mountain granite, this Crafts- nett, a stonemason and superintend- man-style bungalow was built for ent at the Roswell Manufacturing Co. Roswell mayor Radford Green 14. Brantley-Newton House Broadwell, who purchased the prop- (1919)—836 Mimosa Blvd. This white erty in 1896. frame house was designed by Neel 20. The Goulding House (1857)— Reid after he moved to Roswell. 109 Goulding Pl. This red brick home 15. Kimball House (1893)— was built for Rev. Francis Goulding, 881 Mimosa Blvd. Roswell’s first a clergyman, author, and inventor. boarding house, it was built by Sallie His best-known work was a juvenile Kimball and her widowed sister and classic, Young Marooners. In 1842, he remained open until 1979. It is now a developed but did not patent a sew - special events facility. Information: ing machine similar to the device pro - 770-518-0225 duced by Elias Howe a few years later. 16. Site of The Castle (1839)— 21. Roswell Founders’ Hall Magnolia St. at Mimosa Blvd. Ros - (1870)—1076 Canton St. This post– well King constructed a large log Civil War residence was built for the house on this site, where he lived town’s first veterinarian. It was later until a larger, permanent structure relocated to Canton St. and serves could be built. The site is now occu- as a special events facility. Informa- pied by a bank. tion: 770-992-4120 17. Canton St. Stores (1890s)— 22. Naylor Hall (1840s)—1121 Can- Canton and Norcross Sts. These ton St. This home was built by stores, with their Victorian facades, Roswell King for mill manager H. W. once marked the northern edge of Proudfoot. The home was heavily the Roswell commercial district. damaged during fighting around Today, they house retail and dining Roswell in 1864. It has undergone establishments. extensive remodeling through the 18. The Minton House (1850)— years and is now a special events 16 Norcross St. This simple red brick facility. Information: 770-518-0225. 254 structure was built for John Minton, 23. The Fowler House (1830)— a former soldier who fought along- 1159 Canton St. Built originally as a side Gen. Andrew Jackson in the one-room cabin by a Cherokee fam- Creek Indian War. He came to Ros - ily, the structure was enlarged in the well from Liberty County, Ga., in early 1900s. It is now an art gallery. 1849. In 1861, while in his early 60s, he 24. The Perry House (1880)— volunteered for service in the Con- Canton St. at Woodstock Rd. This federate Army and was wounded in large frame house was built by C. J. battle that same year. Perry, a merchant and developer of Historic Roswell the Canton St. com- Center information: mercial district. 770-594-6232; www. 25. Old Roswell roswellgov.com Cemetery (1846)— 30. The Presbyte- Woodstock and rian Church Ceme- Alpharetta Sts. One tery (1841)—behind of the town’s oldest the church on burial grounds, it Atlanta St. at Oak was established by St. Many members the nearby Metho - of Roswell’s pioneer dist church. families are interred 26. Old Meth - here, including Fran- odist Church cis Goulding, Bar- (1850)—Alpharetta rington King, John and Green Sts. One Founders Cemetery Minton, and Dr. of the city’s oldest Nathaniel Pratt. church buildings, it was remodeled 31. Mill Village (1840s–1910s)— and converted to a Masonic lodge Sloan St. These simple frame cot- in 1952. tages were constructed for workers 27. Roswell Fire Museum at the nearby Roswell Manufacturing (1950s)—1002 Alpharetta St. This small Co. mill. Many remain as residences exhibit traces the history of Roswell’s and a few have been converted to volunteer fire department. Hours: vary. commercial use. Information: 770-641-3730 32. The Old Bricks (1840)—Sloan 28. Archibald Smith Plantation St. These attached residential units, (1846)—935 Alpharetta St. Built by one believed to be among the first built of the village founders, this simple for mill workers in the South, were two-story frame house with original used as a hospital by Union troops outbuildings is operated by the Ros - during the Civil War. Today, the well Historical Society. The house and structures are apartment homes. grounds are open to the public. Tour 33. Lost Mill Workers Memorial hours: 10 AM-3 PM, Mon.–Sat.; 1-3 (2000)—Old Mill Park at Sloan and PM, Sun. Information: 770-641-3978; Vickery Sts. This obelisk commemo- 255 www.archibaldsmithplantation.org rates the 400 women who worked 29. Roswell Municipal Complex at the Roswell Mill during the Civil (1990s)—38 Hill St. This massive War. When the Union Army cap- complex contains city offices and a tured the city in July 1864, the work- cultural arts center. A memorial gar- ers were sent north. Most never den includes a Vietnam War Memo- returned to Roswell. rial with a powerful bas-relief 34. Founders’ Cemetery (1830s– sculpture, Faces of War. Cultural Arts 60s)—at the end of Sloan St. Buried AROUND ATLANTA here are city founder Roswell King SPECIAL FEATURES AND EVENTS and other early citizens, among them Annual events in Roswell include: John Dunwody and James Bulloch. u The Great American Cover-Up 35. Roswell Mill (1880s–1930s)— Quilt Show at Bulloch Hall—March 85 Mill St. Little remains of the u Roswell Colors Festival of the original mill buildings, which were Arts—May destroyed by Federal troops in 1864. u Roswell Criterium Brigade Rebuilt after the war, the mill burned Race—May again in 1926. The buildings were u Roswell Remembers—Memorial again restored and were operated by Day Commemoration—May Southern Mills until 1975. Today the u Concerts on the Square—first Historic Roswell Mill shopping, din- Saturday evening of each month, ing, and office complex fills the May–October structures. Information: 770-518-1100 u Roswell Magnolia Storytelling Note: A covered pedestrian bridge Festival—June across the creek offers access to the Vick- u Bard in the Yard—July ery Creek Unit of the Chattahoochee u Roswell Heritage Music River National Recreation Area. Festival—August 36. Allenbrook (1845)—227 S. u Roswell Arts Festival— Atlanta St. This simple red brick September house was built for the superintend- u Fall Farm Days—October ent of the Ivy Woolen Mill. It was the u Youth Days and Festival— residence of Theophil Roche when October the mill was burned by Union troops u Haunting of the Hall (Bulloch in 1864. Today it is part of the Vick- Hall)—October ery Creek Unit of the Chattahoochee u Christmas Festival and Tour of River National Recreation Area Historic Homes—December (see #54). u Walking tours of the Historic 37. Site of Ivy Woolen Mill District conducted by the Historical (1840s)—Riverside Dr. at Atlanta St., Society. Information: 770-992-1665 east of the Chattahoochee River u Numerous special exhibitions bridge. One of Roswell’s earliest and events are held in Historic 256 mills, the complex produced high- Roswell throughout the year. Con- quality wool. During the Union tact the Visitor Center for schedules. occupation of Roswell in 1864, mill Information: 770-640-3253; www. superintendent Theophil Roche visitroswewllga.com attempted to claim neutrality by flying the French flag above the mill. NEARBY ATTRACTIONS The soldiers burned the mill anyway. u Oxbo Linear Park (on Oxbo It was rebuilt and operated until the Rd.)—Part of the expanding Roswell early 20th century. trails system Historic Roswell

u Roswell Area Park (Woodstock Rd.)—multipurpose park with tennis courts, ballﬁelds, and swimming pool u Waller Park (on Oak St.)— ballﬁelds, picnic areas, playground, gymnasium

OTHER WALKS IN THE AREA #30 Chattahoochee Nature Center #33 Big Creek Greenway— Alpharetta Section #53 CRNRA—Gold Branch Unit #54 CRNRA—Vickery Creek Unit #55 CRNRA—Island Ford Unit

257 AROUND ATLANTA C H A P T E R 3 2

trail along the perimeter of the prop- Autrey Mill erty.

Nature TERRAIN The buildings are located Preserve along a sloping ridgeline, and the trails descend to the streambed through a Piedmont forest ravine filled with pines and hardwoods. The return follows the open meadows of a power company ease- ment back to the starting point. Markers along the trails describe the various stages of forest succession evident in the surrounding woods and identify significant trees, flowers, LOCATION and other plants. The nature preserve is located about 31 miles north of downtown and DRIVING DIRECTIONS about 10 miles outside I-285 at Travel Peachtree Industrial Peachtree Industrial Blvd (exit 31), Blvd. north, bear left on Peachtree also called U.S. Hwy. 141. The hike Pkwy., and turn left (west) on Old begins at the Visitor Center. Alabama Rd. The preserve will be The grounds are open daily, 8 AM about 2.5 miles ahead on the right until dusk; the visitor center is open (north). 10 AM–4 PM, Mon.–Sat. GPS: N34.01.248/W84.13.948 Parking 258 There is a small parking area adja- TRAIL DISTANCE cent to the visitor center. The wooded trails form a rough figure 8 as they meander BACKGROUND from the visitor center down to the Over 150 years ago, after the Chero- streambed and then return. The kee had given up their cherished entire loop is about 2.2 miles in homelands in north Georgia, settlers length. There are long-range plans began moving into these wooded for expanding the trails to include a hills. In the 1830s, the Autrey family Autrey Mill Nature Preserve

Welcome center built a small gristmill on a stream The preserve offers workshops, flowing south into the nearby Chat- summer camps, school group tahoochee River. For over half a cen- classes, and a variety of outdoor tury the family milled corn and other education programs. grains and farmed the hillsides and The preserve’s eclectic buildings, creek valleys. In the 1870s, the land located together in the Heritage Vil- was acquired first by the Cochran lage, and 46 acres of woodlands are family and later by the Summerour a window into the past, an oasis of family. Several of the preserve’s wildness in stark contrast to the buildings date to the Summerour manicured landscapes of the sur- family. In the 1960s, the DeBray fam- rounding golf course communities. ily purchased the land and remodeled several existing buildings, using NOTABLE PLACES local fieldstone to create an unusual 1. Visitor Center (1870s, expanded mix of new and old. They also con- 1960s)—Constructed as a simple structed a small stone chapel. cabin, the building has been remod- In 1972, the Autrey Mill site was eled many times, most notably by identified by Fulton Co. as an eco- the DeBray family in the 1960s. The 259 logically significant area, and the center contains natural history ex- land was acquired for a nature pre- hibits and administrative offices. serve. The Autrey Mill Nature Pre- 2. DeBray Chapel (1960s)—The serve Association was created in the fieldstone construction of this small late 1980s to protect the property building gives the impression that it from encroaching development and is much older than it is. The chapel to operate the preserve for the edu- and grounds are a popular setting cation and enjoyment of the public. for weddings and receptions. AROUND ATLANTA 3. Old Warsaw Church 8. Tenant Farmer’s Cabin (c. 1860s)—Established by Moravian (1880s)—This rustic wooden cabin settlers as a camp meeting place in has been set up to depict the rugged 1822, the current structure was existence of turn-of-the-century ten- erected in the 1860s. The building ant farmers in rural Georgia. Adja- was moved to the Heritage Village cent is a 3-sided structure that from its original location near Med- resembles a front porch and is used lock Bridge in 2004 and is used for for programs and presentations. weddings and other special events. 9. Wetlands Pavilion—Built to 4. Green Country Store offer a place for rest or to teach an (c. 1920s)—Originally located on Old outdoor class, the open-sided pavil- Alabama Rd. at Brice Rd., the store ion offers a pleasant view of the operated until 1958. The structure stream and the surrounding woods. was relocated to the Heritage Village 10. Autrey Mill Ruins (c. 1830s)— in 2004 and has been preserved to Only a few stone foundations remain represent the general stores that sup- of the original mill. The ruins are cur- ported rural areas for many years. rently not accessible by foot trail. 5. Farm Museum (c. 1970s)— 11. Picnic Pavilion—Located near Originally built by the De Bray family the Preserve entrance, this large as a garage, the building now houses pavilion is a popular gathering place. displays of old farm equipment and implements. It is open by request. SPECIAL FEATURES AND EVENTS Next to the museum is a pole barn, u Programs: The Autrey Mill constructed to resemble common Preserve Association offers a wide barns found throughout the South. variety of nature, history, and arts It is used as a group picnic shelter education programs for school and meeting place. groups and the general public. Con- 6. Program Barn (c. 1940s)—Built tact the preserve for details on by the Abernathy family, the wooden upcoming events. Information: 678- barn was creatively expanded by the 366-3511; www.autreymill.org De Brays, who used it as a guest- house. Currently it is used as class- NEARBY ATTRACTIONS 260 room and meeting space. u Atlanta Athletic Club (private) 7. Summerour House (1880s)— occasionally hosts professional golf Moved to this location from another events part of the property, this simple white-frame farmhouse was built by OTHER WALKS IN THE AREA the Summerour family. The interior #31 Historic Roswell and exterior have been renovated, #54 CRNRA—Vickery Creek and the structure is used as a special #56 CRNRA—Medlock Bridge events facility. #57 CRNRA—Jones Bridge Autrey Mill Nature Preserve

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locations along the route if you wish Big Creek to arrange a pick-up point or a shut- Greenway— tle car. TERRAIN Alpharetta The trail follows a mostly level, gently rolling course Section along the banks of meandering Big Creek. The main trail is paved and is wide enough to be shared by walkers, runners, bicyclists, and in-line skaters. There are benches located at intervals along the route. In addition to the paved main trail, there is an unpaved path along the south- ernmost portion of the park from LOCATION the North Point Pkwy. parking lot About 16 miles northeast of down- to Mansell Rd. This path, located town, the Big Creek Greenway is behind commercial buildings, follows located east of North Point Pkwy. the borders of a wetland area and The hike proﬁled here begins at the connects with a wooden boardwalk parking area off North Point Pkwy. along the return to the main trail. GPS: N34.02.784/W84.17.744 DRIVING DIRECTIONS TRAIL DISTANCE Travel GA 400 north from I- This portion of the Big Creek 285 to Mansell Rd. (exit 8). Travel Greenway is a 6.1–mile linear east to North Point Pkwy., then turn 262 park with several short loops. Signs north, following signs to the green- marking trail distances are located way. Follow the winding driveway to at intervals along the entire route. the parking area located behind a Just south of the Alpharetta–Ed Isak- commercial building. son Family YMCA is an unpaved mountain bike trail that is about Parking 2 miles (round trip); this primitive The main parking area is located on trail is marked by green and blue North Point Pkwy. with satellite blazes. Parking is available at several parking lots near New Prospect Ele- Big Creek Greenway—Alpharetta Section

Bridge over Big Creek mentary School on Kimball Bridge ment of the park began in the mid- Rd. north of Haynes Bridge Rd., and 1990s and is slated to continue as adjacent to the YMCA complex on land is acquired extending the park Preston Ridge Rd. northward from its current terminus at Webb Bridge Rd. PUBLIC TRANSPORTATION The Big Creek area is a haven Big Creek Greenway is served for ducks, Canada geese, and other by regular MARTA bus service birds, small mammals that have (#140) from the North Springs rail made their homes in meadows station. MARTA: 404-848-5000; and woodlands, and reptiles and www.itsmarta.com amphibians nesting along the creek banks and wetlands. The Big Creek BACKGROUND Greenway is a popular destination Only a short distance from highway on weekends, but a weekday visit will traffic on GA 400 and shopping at offer opportunities for solitude and North Point Mall, the Big Creek a quiet journey through the woods. Greenway is an oasis of greenspace The park is open daily from 8 AM surrounded by Atlanta’s suburbs. until dusk and is regularly patrolled 263 This linear park, developed and by park rangers. Emergency tele- operated by the Alpharetta Recre- phones are located at various points ation and Parks Department, in the park. stretches through stands of decidu- In 2010, a northern section of the ous forest, meadows, and wetland trail opened in Forsyth County. It is areas bordering the swift-flowing approximately a 5-mile drive between waters of Big Creek, a tributary of Webb Bridge Rd. and McFarland Rd. the Chattahoochee River. Develop- to connect with the Forsyth County AROUND ATLANTA section of the Big Creek Greenway area. Main St. at Academy St. (which (see #34). There are plans to link the becomes Webb Bridge Rd.) two sections and to extend the Big u Mansell House and Gardens Creek Greenway Trail southward to (1912)—1835 Old Milton Pkwy. Built by the Vickery Creek Unit of the Chatta- Robert and Maude Mansell, this hoochee River National Recreation Queen Anne style frame house is Area in Roswell (see #54). To learn home to the Alpharetta Historical more about trail developments, visit Society. It is open 10 AM–2 PM., www.bigcreekgreenway.com. Mon.–Fri., and is available for special events. Information: 770-475- NOTABLE PLACES 4663; www.ashga.org 1. Visitor Building (1990s)— u North Point Mall—shopping off North Point Pkwy. Adja- and dining. North Point Pkwy. cent to the main parking area, the u Wills Park—Fulton County park building offers restrooms and a pic- offers recreation facilities and a full- nic area. Nearby markers provide service equestrian center. Wills Rd. information about the park. and Maddox St. Information: 678- 2. Rock Mill Park—trail intersec- 297-6120 tion with Kimball Bridge Rd. This small park features a stone picnic OTHER WALKS IN THE AREA pavilion, restrooms, play areas, #31 Historic Roswell and parking. #34 Big Creek Greenway— 3. Ed Isakson Alpharetta YMCA Forsyth County Section (1990s)—3655 Preston Ridge Rd. #54 CRNRA—Vickery Creek This modern complex adjacent to #55 CRNRA—Island Ford the Greenway offers fitness facilities, playgrounds, and picnic areas (private).

SPECIAL FEATURES AND EVENTS Contact the Alpharetta Parks and Recreation Department for informa- 264 tion about events at the Big Creek Greenway and other local parks. Information: 678-297-6100; www.alpharetta.ga.us; or www.bigcreekgreenway.com

NEARBY ATTRACTIONS u Historic Downtown Alpharetta—shopping and dining

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ﬂows southward toward the Chatta- Big Creek hoochee River. The wide, mostly level path is composed of concrete with Greenway— elevated wooden boardwalks through creek bottom and wetland areas. Forsyth County During or after heavy rains, portions of the Greenway may ﬂood, particu- Section larly the short tunnel beneath Majors Rd., about 1.5 mi. south of the northern trailhead. If there has been recent rain, it is advisable to visit this area to examine conditions before beginning an end-to-end walk on the trail.

DRIVING DIRECTIONS Follow GA 400 north to LOCATION Bethelview Rd. (exit 13) and travel About 36.5 mi. north of downtown northwest on Bethelview for 2.1 miles. via I-85 and GA 400. The hike pro- The trailhead parking area will be on ﬁled here follows the Greenway from the left. The southern trailhead is the northern trailhead on Bethel - located on McFarland Rd. (exit 12 view Rd. from GA 400). Travel southeast on GPS: N34.10.806/W84.11.611 McFarland for 0.5 mile and the parking area will be on the right. TRAIL DISTANCE This section of the Big Creek Parking Greenway is a 6.8-mile linear There are graveled parking areas at 266 park with trailheads on McFarland both trailheads and a small satellite Rd. (south) and Bethelview Rd. parking area near the intersection (north). Unless you plan to retrace with Union Hill Rd. your steps, arrange a shuttle vehicle at the trail ending point. BACKGROUND This hike features the Forsyth section TERRAIN of the expanding Big Creek Green- The Greenway follows the way linear park system, which has its course of Big Creek as it current southern terminus on North Big Creek Greenway—Forsyth County Section

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Exit 12 M C F A R N LA N D P K McFarland Pkwy W GPS: N 34. 10. 806 Trailhead Y W 84. 11. 611 Restrooms P AROUND ATLANTA Point Pkwy. near creek and old farm Mansell Rd. (see #33). fields. The area The Forsyth section is ideal for bird meanders through a watching. mixture of creek bot- 3. Fowler Park— toms, wetlands, pied- Atlanta Hwy. and mont forest, and Mars Hill Rd. This meadows as it fol- 85-acre Forsyth lows slow-moving Big County park is east Creek on its course of the Greenway and from the foothills of linked by a connect- the Appalachian ing trail. The park Mountains to its con- features softball, fluence with the baseball and soccer Hikers on boardwalk Chattahoochee River fields, tennis and near Roswell. The basketball courts, Forsyth section of the Greenway pro- playgrounds, and a skate park. vides opportunities for outdoor 4. GA 400 Underpass—Here the recreation—from walking and jog- Greenway follows the creek bed ging to bicycling and bird watching— beneath GA 400. all a short distance from residential areas and the busy GA 400 corridor. SPECIAL FEATURES AND EVENTS Future plans call for a connecting Forsyth County Parks and Recre- path to link the Alpharetta and ation Department volunteers offer Forsyth sections of the Greenway, as bird watching and other activities well as trail extensions southward to along the Greenway. Information: the Chattahoochee River National www.bigcreekgreenway.com Recreation Area’s Vickery Creek Unit (see #54) and northward to Forsyth NEARBY ATTRACTIONS County’s Sawnee Mountain Nature u Downtown Cumming shopping Preserve above Cumming. and dining district u Lake Sidney Lanier 268 NOTABLE PLACES u Sawnee Mountain Nature 1. Majors Rd. Underpass— Preserve A low point on the Green- way, this area is prone to flooding OTHER TRAILS IN THE AREA and may become impassable follow- #33 Big Creek Greenway— ing periods of rain. Alpharetta Section 2. Old Farm Fields—North of #54 CRNRA—Vickery Creek Unit Atlanta Hwy. The Greenway follows an elevated boardwalk between the AROUND ATLANTA C H A P T E R 3 5

the valley and up into the surround- Dunwoody ing Piedmont hills. The North Trail descends, at times along steep Nature switchbacks, to the access trail from the headquarters building. The Wet- Center lands Trail follows an elevated boardwalk through marshy areas and creek banks. The Woodlands Trail follows a loop into the hills along the preserve’s eastern boundaries before returning to the pond area and meadow. A walk through Dunwoody Park, home to the Dun- woody Senior Baseball program, is a gentle ascent to Roberts Rd.

LOCATION DRIVING DIRECTIONS The Nature Center is located about Travel I-285 to Ashford Dun- 17 miles northeast of downtown woody Rd. (exit 29) go north, turn and about 3 miles north of I-285 on right (north) on Mount Vernon Roberts Rd. The walk begins at the Rd., turn left (north) on Chamblee Nature Center headquarters. Dunwoody Rd. About 0.2 miles GPS: N33.57.411/W84.19.989 north, bear right on Roberts Rd. The entrance is ahead on the right. TRAIL DISTANCE A hike along nature center Parking trails and through Dunwoody Parking is available at the Nature Park is about 2.1 miles. Center and at Dunwoody Park. 269 TERRAIN PUBLIC TRANSPORTATION The Dunwoody Nature Cen- MARTA’s Tilly Mill bus (#132), ter sits along the banks of departing from both the shallow Wildcat Creek and in the Chamblee and North Springs rail surrounding wetlands. Three trails stations, stops a short distance from wind through the preserve, following the Nature Center. MARTA: 404-848- the contours of the landscape along 5000; www.itsmarta.com AROUND ATLANTA BACKGROUND bers-only events. Information: 770- As Atlanta continues to grow, saving 394-3322; www.dunwoodynature.org oases of wilderness is becoming increasingly important. In 1990, a HISTORICAL MARKERS group of visionary Dunwoody resi- There is one on the trail, and dents worked with DeKalb County another is nearby: authorities to set aside 22 acres of 1. Civil War Cannon Emplace- the 35-acre Dunwoody Park as a ment—behind Nature Center head- woodland preserve along the banks quarters of meandering Wildcat Creek for 2. McPherson’s Divergent Line of both recreation and environmental March—Chamblee Dunwoody Rd. at education. Nandina Ln. Today, the Dunwoody Nature Center is a destination for local fam- NOTABLE PLACES ilies and outdoor enthusiasts who 1. Dunwoody Nature Center come to hike the trails, explore the Headquarters Building ever-evolving gardens, picnic in the (1946)—5343 Roberts Dr. The con- meadow, romp on playscapes, and temporary-style headquarters build- enjoy classes and art exhibitions in ing was constructed in 1946 as the the Nature Center’s headquarters residence of Mr. T. R. Peters and building. was quite modern for the time Adjacent to the Nature Center is period. The building houses nature Dunwoody Park, a DeKalb County center offices, the executive offices recreational facility with two baseball for the Atlanta Audubon Society, fields for use by Dunwoody Senior classrooms, and exhibition spaces. Baseball, a recreational and competi- Hours: 9 AM–5 PM, Mon.–Fri., and tive travel baseball program for play- by appointment. ers ages 13 through 18. The park, alive 2. Specialty Gardens—Surround- with the sounds of metal bats and ing the Nature Center headquarters balls from early spring until late fall, and elsewhere on the grounds are is an inviting stop for walkers com- specialty gardens and demonstration pleting a circuit of Nature Center sites. These include: 270 trails. Hours: The Dunwoody Nature A. Gateway Gardens—The Center is open from dawn to dusk entrance to the center and a natural daily; the headquarters building is classroom for environmental educa- open from 9 AM–5 PM, Mon.–Fri.; tion. Saturdays by appointment. While B. Native Plant Garden—Devel- there is no charge to visit the center, oped in 1995 by the Georgia Native annual memberships offer individu- Plant Society, this shade garden fea- als and families advance notice of tures a variety of plants from across programs and invitations to mem- Georgia. Dunwoody Nature Center

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C. Bird Habitat Garden—A small was an Eagle Scout project. garden showcasing landscape fea- 5. Children’s Playscapes—Swings, tures to attract songbirds. slides, climbing bars, and other D. Pollinator’s Paradise—Listen equipment for kids of all ages. for buzzing bees as they fly among 6. Treehouse (2008)—Overlook- the flowering plants to gather and ing wetlands, this elevated, open- deposit pollen. sided structure offers a good E. Compost Demonstration Site— vantage point for observing wildlife. Visit here to see how easy it is to turn 7. Dunwoody Park Baseball Com- household waste into rich fertilizer. plex (1970s)—Two fields, a smaller F. Wet Meadow Garden—Located one for younger players and a full- behind the building, this garden fea- size one for high-school-age athletes, tures a wetlands bog and bird- surround a clubhouse with a conces- friendly plants. Local Girl Scouts sion stand and restrooms. 272 have added birdhouses. 8. Swancy Farmhouse (c. 1889)— 3. Old Chimney (c. 1930s–40s)— 5308 Roberts Rd. This modest clap- behind headquarters building. This board house, now modernized, chimney is all that remains of a vaca- represents the simple life of Dun- tion cabin that occupied this site woody residents more than a cen- more than a half century ago. tury ago. 4. Gazebo and Information Kiosk 9. DeKalb County Fire Depart- (1990s)—This pleasant resting place ment Station 12 (1970s)—Roberts at the intersection of the trail loops Rd., north of entrance to Dunwoody Dunwoody Nature Center

Park. This single-bay ﬁre station was u Spruill Center for the Arts designed to blend with the surround- Gallery (1880s)—4681 Ashford Dun- ing residential neighborhood. woody Rd. Housed in a 19th century farmhouse that was once part of the SPECIAL FEATURES AND EVENTS Spruill family’s vast land holdings in The Dunwoody Nature Center offers the area, the center provides space a full calendar of events and activi- for arts and crafts exhibitions. ties throughout the year. Check the u Spruill House (c. 1880s)— schedule for gardening classes, chil- 5455 Chamblee Dunwoody Rd. This dren’s camps, guided walks, and large, two-story clapboard house other offerings. was once owned by the Spruill fam- u Dunwoody Senior Baseball ily, pioneer settlers of the Dunwoody Program features a full slate of area. The home has been restored recreational league and traveling- for use as a teahouse and special team games from March through events facility. October. OTHER WALKS IN THE AREA NEARBY ATTRACTIONS #55 CRNRA—Island Ford u North DeKalb Cultural Center—5339 Chamblee Dunwoody Rd. This multipurpose facility houses the Dunwoody branch of the DeKalb Public Library; the performance stage for the Dunwoody Stage Door Players theatrical troupe; and classrooms, studios, and work areas for the Spruill Center for the Arts. u Perimeter Mall—4400 Ashford Dunwoody Rd. This large regional shopping mall features more than 150 shops and restaurants and is anchored by Nordstrom, Blooming- dale’s, and Macy’s department stores. 273 u Rail Road Section Hands House (c. 1880s)—Chamblee Dunwoody Rd. across from Dunwoody Village Shop- ping Center. A small clapboard cottage offered simple lodging for railroad workers. The building was moved to this location from another site and now houses a retail business. AROUND ATLANTA C H A P T E R 3 6

section is predominantly a lowland Little area surrounding Miller Lake, while the southern portion is composed Mulberry mostly of a network of paved, multiuse trails crisscrossing ridgetop Park meadows. An observation terrace atop the West Meadow is among the highest points in Gwinnett County. The western edge of this section offers the heavily wooded and challenging Ravine Loop Trail, which contains several mysterious, centuries-old Native American rock cairns. Within the 200-acre Karina LOCATION Miller Nature Preserve are hiking and This Gwinnett County park is about equestrian trails that meander 42 miles north of downtown Atlanta through the steep hillsides, connect- The starting point for the overall ing the northern and southern sec- hike is the Hog Mountain parking tions of the park. area. GPS: N34.03.204/W83.53.08. DRIVING DIRECTIONS Travel north from downtown TRAIL DISTANCE via I-85 to Hamilton Mill Rd. (exit The park has about 12 miles of 120). Travel south on Hamilton Mill foot, multiuse, and equestrian for 0.1 mile and turn right (south- trails. The hike around Miller Lake is west) on GA 124 (Braselton Hwy.). about 2.2 miles, while a trek on the Follow GA 124 for 1.9 miles and turn 274 network of paths in the southern left (south-east) on GA 324 (Auburn section of the park is a hike of about Hwy.). To reach the park’s northern 5.4 miles. The highlighted route, entrance, drive 0.1 mile to Hog combining both walks and a con- Mountain Rd. and turn left (east), necting trail is a hike of 8.3 miles. follow it for 2.2 miles to the park entrance at 3900 Hog Mountain Rd. TERRAIN To reach the park’s southern The park features three dis- entrance, continue 3.3 miles on GA tinct areas. The northern 324 to Fence Rd. and turn left (east). Little Mulberry Park

Stone cairns along Ravine Loop Trail

The park entrance will be 0.6 miles dreds of millions of dollars for on the left at 3550 Fence Rd. needed projects, including parks. Among these was 890-acre Little Parking Mulberry Park, which opened in There are large parking areas at both 2006. The park is for passive recre- the Hog Mountain Rd. and Fence ation, such as hiking, running, bicy- Rd. park entrances. There is also cling, fishing, wildlife watching, dedicated equestrian trailer parking picnicking, and horseback riding. It on Mineral Springs Rd. does not offer ball fields or organized athletics programs. BACKGROUND For those seeking an outdoor Four decades ago, Gwinnett County adventure, Little Mulberry Park is a was a rural, northern neighbor of great destination. The Lakeshore Atlanta, noted more for its farm- Trails’ wide paths and boardwalks lands and woodlands than for urban along Miller Lake offer opportunities sprawl. Beginning in the 1980s, to observe waterfowl, launch small Gwin nett’s population began to rise, boats, or fish. The more rugged hik- and by the 1990s it had become the ing and equestrian trails within the nation’s fastest growing county. For- Karina Miller Nature Preserve probe tunately, county leaders recognized the heavily wooded and sometimes 275 the need to acquire and set aside steep hillsides and connect with the space for new and expanded parks network of paved, multi-use trails before the most attractive lands were that mark the southern half of the developed for residential or commer- park. Here, the paved East and West cial use. Meadow Trails crisscross open Through the use of funds raised spaces, some with panoramic vistas by special local option sales taxes of the surrounding woodlands. Near (SPLOST), the county raised hun- the group activities area are a chil- AROUND ATLANTA dren’s playground, pavilions, rest- 5. West Meadow Trail Observa- rooms, wildflower gardens, and tion Terrace—A short spur trail an ADA accessible trail around a leads from the paved path to this small pond. hilltop observation area offering a A spur from the West Meadow panoramic view of the surrounding Trail leads to the Ravine and Beech countryside. Tree Trails that descend past an over- 6. Ravine Overlook—A short side look area to a fast-flowing stream be- trail offers a view into the heavily fore returning to an intersection with wooded ravine below. the paved trail. Along this path, look 7. Native American Stacked Stone for the stacked stone cairns erected Cairns—Located at different loca- by Native Americans centuries ago. tions along the Ravine Trail, the Their purpose remains a mystery. cairns are a remnant of past visitors. Note: Please do not climb on or disturb HISTORICAL MARKERS the stones. 1. Native American Stacked 8. Miller Lake Dam—This earthen Stones—at entrance to Ravine dam impounds the Mulberry River. Trail Below the dam is the equestrian trailer parking area. NOTABLE PLACES 1. Miller Lake—Created years NEARBY ATTRACTIONS ago by the Miller family, u Chateau Elan Winery and the lake is a centerpiece of the park’s Resort: The 3,500-acre property fea- northern section. There are piers tures vineyards, a winery, restau- for fishing (license required) and a rants, upscale lodgings, a spa, a golf launch for small boats. course, and residential sites. 2. Karina Miller Nature Pre- www.chateauelan.com serve—This 200-acre tract within u Mall of Georgia: Just north the park was set aside in 2006 as a of I-85, the mall features over wilderness retreat for hiking, horse- 200 stores and is one of the state’s back riding, and wildlife watching. largest shopping centers. 3. West Meadow Shelter— u Mayfield Dairies: Located in 276 Located near the intersection of the nearby Braselton, the dairies’ visitor West Meadow, East Meadow, and center offers tours and ice cream Connecting Trails, the shelter is ideal tastings. www.mayfielddairy.com for early-morning bird watching. 4. Children’s Playground and OTHER WALKS IN THE AREA Group Activities Area—Featuring #37 Suwanee Creek Greenway picnic pavilions, restrooms, and a playground, this part of the park is a destination for families. Little Mulberry Park

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TERRAIN Suwanee From the northern trailhead in Pierce Park, the greenway Creek follows paved paths and elevated boardwalks along the course of Greenway Suwanee Creek for more than 3 miles before climbing steadily to Suwanee Creek Park.

DRIVING DIRECTIONS From downtown, travel I-85 N to GA 317, Lawrenceville-Suwanee Rd. (exit 111) and turn west. Drive about 2 miles to U.S. 23 (Buford Hwy.), turn north and drive 0.2 mi. to George Pierce Park. Turn right LOCATION and follow the road past the soccer East of downtown Suwanee, about ﬁelds to a parking area. 37 miles north of downtown Atlanta via I-85. A short walk downhill from Parking the parking area will lead to the There is ample parking at George northern greenway trailhead. Begin Pierce Park and a smaller parking the hike behind the soccer ﬁelds at area at Suwanee Creek Park. Pierce Park. GPS: N34.06.357/W84.05.378 BACKGROUND Centuries ago, Shawnee Indians TRAIL DISTANCE established a small village on the 278 The walk from Pierce Park to banks of Suwanee Creek where it en- Suwanee Creek Park is 4.7 tered the Chattahoochee River (about miles one way. A side trail exits the 3 miles south of the present city of greenway at GA 317 and follows side- Suwanee). Over time, the Shawnee walks for about 0.5 mile to Suwa- were supplanted by Cherokee and nee’s Town Center Park. Unless you Creek who referred to the village site plan to retrace your steps on the as “Suwanee [Shawnee] Old Town.” greenway, have a shuttle car at Through treaties between the U.S. Suwanee Creek Park. Government and the Cherokee and Suwanee Creek Greenway

Trail near Buckeye Pavilion, which is near Suwanee Creek Park at the southern end of the greenway Creek, the natives ceded these ances- An absence of environmental regula- tral lands in 1817 and 1818, opening tions permitted the tannery to dump the way for pioneers to settle the fer- tons of waste chemicals and dyes tile bottomlands and establish the directly into Suwanee Creek for many small town they called Suwanee. By years. The waters became so badly 1838, the village had a few permanent polluted by effluent that locals called residents and a post office. it simply “black creek.” Following the Civil War, the town When the tannery closed in the grew with the expansion of the rail- early 1970s, environmental scientists roads, including the Georgia Airline projected that it would take more Railroad in 1869 and Southern Rail- than 100 years for the creek to road in 1871, followed by the local recover. Remarkably, with proactive narrow gauge Lawrenceville & Suwa- clean-up efforts and careful steward- nee Railroad a few years later. The ship, Suwanee Creek is now clean rail lines provided access for local and provides habitat for wildlife farmers to transport goods to mar- and waterfowl as well as a place for ket. The railroads and the waters of recreation and enjoyment. Suwanee Creek provided resources With funds allocated from the 279 for a new business, the Bona Allen Georgia Department of Transporta- Tannery, which was established on tion and local tax initiatives, work the creek near the community of began on the Suwanee Creek Green- Buford in 1873. way in the early 1990s (with assis- During a century of operation, tance from the NFL Atlanta Falcons, the tannery grew to become the whose headquarters and practice largest leather tanner in the world, fields were then located in Suwanee). providing employment to hundreds. The final section of Suwanee Creek AROUND ATLANTA Park was constructed in 2004, and the ascent from Suwanee Creek the completed greenway is a destina- floodplain toward Suwanee Creek tion for local residents and visitors. Park. Note small markers identifying plots for endangered native plants. NOTABLE PLACES 7. Suwanee Creek Park—U.S. 23 1. George Pierce Park— south of Suwanee. This park features Buford Hwy., north of picnic pavilions, restrooms, nature downtown Suwanee. This 300-acre trails, and parking. park features ball fields, recreation fields, nature trails, a fishing pond, SPECIAL FEATURES AND EVENTS and picnic areas. Suwanee hosts a variety of events 2. Town Center Park—Buford at Town Center Park and other loca- Hwy. and Lawrenceville-Suwanee Rd. tions throughout the year. Among A 10-acre park in the heart of Suwa- these are: nee’s business district features paved u Suwanee Day—September walkways, shade trees and garden u Taste of Suwanee—September spaces, an outdoor amphitheater, u Trek or Treat—October and the Big Splash Interactive Foun- u Old Town Holiday Festival and tain (seasonal). Caboose Lighting—December 3. Richard Trice Trail—This 1.5-mile u Christmas in the Park— section of the Greenway from Suwa- December. Information: 770-945- nee Elementary School to Martin 8996; www.suwanee.com Farm Rd. was the first portion completed. It is named to honor a trail NEARBY ATTRACTIONS supporter and former mayor of u Mall of Georgia—the state’s Suwanee. largest shopping center 4. Martin Farm Park and Inter- u Lake Sidney Lanier—boating, pretive Trail—Greenway intersection fishing, swimming in this Army with Martin Farm Rd. From a park- Corps of Engineers reservoir ing area on Martin Farm Rd., a sec- u Suwanee’s Harvest Farm Com- tion of the greenway follows an munity Garden—located near down- elevated boardwalk and observation town Suwanee. This is the largest 280 area with interpretive markers community organic farm in the describing the restoration of the state. Volunteers offer gardening creek and wildlife habitats. classes. 5. McGinnis Ferry Rd. Under- pass—The Greenway crosses a cov- OTHER WALKS IN THE AREA ered pedestrian bridge and follows a #34 Big Creek Greenway— series of ramps and steps beneath Forsyth Section the busy road. #36 Little Mulberry Park 6. Native Plant Rescue Area—on Suwanee Creek Greenway

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neighborhood to the Clyde Shepherd South Nature Preserve is 0.6 miles. The loop through the preserve is about Peachtree 1.0 miles. A hike of all sections is a Creek PATH walk of about 4.8 miles. TERRAIN Trail and Clyde Much of this walk meanders through or above the wet- Shepherd lands and ﬂoodplain of South Peachtree Creek so the terrain is Nature mostly level with some low hills. With the exception of the open ﬁelds of Medlock Park, most of the route Preserve is shaded. The PATH Trail is primarily paved with concrete or elevated LOCATION wooden boardwalks (making it The PATH Trail and Shepherd Nature stroller, wheelchair, and bicycle Preserve are both located near De - friendly), while the trail through the Kalb County’s Medlock Park, mak ing neighborhood follows lightly trav- it a convenient starting point for the eled streets and sidewalks. The paths walk. Medlock Park is about 9 miles in the nature preserve are a mix of north of downtown Atlanta. compacted dirt or mulch with some GPS: N33.48.172/W84.17.716 elevated boardwalks.

TRAIL DISTANCE DRIVING DIRECTIONS The South Peachtree Creek From I-75/85, turn east on 282 PATH Trail is a linear, multiuse Freedom Pkwy. (exit 248) for 1.8 miles trail linking Medlock Park with the to Moreland Ave. Turn north (left) on ruins of the old Decatur Water- Moreland and travel 0.3 mile to Ponce works. A round trip is 2.2 miles. A de Leon Ave. and turn east (right). walk east through Medlock Park, Drive 2.2 miles to the fork of Ponce de past the ball ﬁelds and swimming Leon and Scott Blvd., bearing left on pool, is a trek of about 0.2 miles and Scott Blvd. Drive north to the 3-way the hike through the surrounding intersection with North Decatur and South Peachtree Creek PATH Trail and Clyde Shepherd Nature Preserve

Clyde Shepherd Nature Preserve trail sign

Medlock Rds. Turn north (left) on BACKGROUND Medlock and travel about 0.5 miles to In the mid-1980s, a master plan was Lancelot and turn west (left). A short developed for a multiuse pathway distance ahead, turn north (right) on along South Peachtree Creek that Scott Cir. and continue another 0.5 would link Mason Mill Park with miles to Medlock Park on the right. Medlock Park. A short time later, pas- The PATH trail begins at the western sage of the federal Intermodal Sur- end of the parking area. face Transportation Efficiency Act (ISTEA) made funds available for Parking local projects to include non-motor- There is ample parking at Medlock ized commuter trails such as this one. Park (unless there are baseball Neighborhood groups petitioned games in progress) and a small park- for ISTEA funds and asked the ing area is adjacent to the nature recently established PATH Founda- preserve. On-street parking is per- tion for assistance in developing the mitted in the neighborhood unless pathway. PATH provided matching otherwise posted. funding and work began in earnest 283 on a trail system that would mean- PUBLIC TRANSPORTATION der through the woods and wetlands North Druid Hills Rd., about bordering South Peachtree Creek 1.0 mile north of Medlock and bring walkers closer to the Park, is served by the MARTA #8 area’s history. North Druid Hills bus, connecting On July 19, 1864, Union troops of with the Brookhaven and Avondale the 23rd Corps, Army of the Ohio, rail stations. AROUND ATLANTA crossed South Peachtree Creek near watershed that were important habi- this site on their march toward tats for waterfowl, migratory birds, Decatur. Three days later they would and other wildlife. Over the years, clash with Rebel forces in the Battle volunteers blazed trails and built of Atlanta. Until the 1950s, this area boardwalks and observation decks was home to a few small farms and to enhance enjoyment of the pre- to the Decatur Water Works, built in serve. In 2006 the preserve was 1906. The complex, including a dam renamed to honor longtime DeKalb and water holding tanks, operated County resident and preserve sup- until the 1930s, when a larger water porter Clyde Shepherd. To learn system drawing from the Chatta- more about the preserve, call 678- hoochee River was constructed to 951-0105, or visit its website at provide resources for the entire coun- www.cshepherdpreserve.org. ty. The complex was shut down until Despite many delays, work began World War II, when it was reopened on a PATH Trail along South Peach - to provide a dedicated water supply tree Creek in 2008 that was completed for Naval Air Station Atlanta (on the in 2009. This section, linking the old present site of Peachtree-DeKalb Air- water works site and Medlock Park, port). Following the war, the water represents the first of three phases, works were permanently shut down with future plans to extend the PATH and the dam on Burnt Creek dyna- trail to Mason Mill Park and DeKalb mited to permit water to again flow Tennis Center on McConnell Dr., and freely to South Peachtree Creek. As beyond to the Clairmont Campus of residential neighborhoods developed Emory University. around the creek, crude paths and Combined with an easy walk trails crisscrossed the woods and wet- through the Medlock Neighborhood lands, many of which came to be and a trek along the paths of the used in later years by a growing num- nature preserve, the completed trail ber of mountain biking enthusiasts. network would finally accomplish the The construction of Medlock Park planners’ vision of a quarter-century along the edge of South Peach tree ago, to provide pedestrian access Creek in the 1960s added to the abun- along wooded, multiuse trails and 284 dance of greenspaces in the area lightly traveled streets from North neighborhoods, which are convenient DeKalb Mall to Emory University. to North DeKalb Mall on the west and Emory University on the east. HISTORICAL MARKERS Residents of the Medlock neigh- There are none on the walk borhood developed the 28-acre but there is one nearby: South Peachtree Creek Nature Pre- 1. 16th And 23rd A.C. March serve in 1995 to preserve fragile wet- To Decatur—North Druid Hills Rd. lands and upland forests of the east of Clairmont Rd.

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AROUND ATLANTA NOTABLE PLACES Dr. The information board features a 1. Medlock Park (1960s)— hiking map of the preserve trails and 874 Gaylemont Cir. This information on the 39-acre park offers baseball and organization. softball diamonds, playgrounds, 8. Outdoor Classroom—Pine recreation ﬁelds, and a seasonal Trail. This tree-shaded area provides swimming pool. benches for outdoor programs and 2. Old Water Works Service Rd. activities. (1910s)—below the PATH Trail, the 9. South Peachtree Creek Obser- dirt service road entered the water vation Deck—Pine Trail. A short path works. It later provided access to the leads to an overlook of the creek. creek for bikers and hikers. 10. Indian Rock—Pine Trail. This 3. Old Stone Bridge (c. 1930s)— large, partially exposed boulder cre- This rustic stone bridge was con- ates a hump in the surrounding wet- structed to provide access to the lands area. nearby Decatur Water Works 11. Photography Blind—Forest complex. It is now a part of the Trail. A short boardwalk leads PATH Trail. through tall grasses to a blind over- 4. Old Decatur Water Works looking the wetlands and a nearby Dam Ruins (c. 1900s)—a short, dirt beaver pond. side trail leads to the ruins of the old 12. Observation Deck—Forest impoundment dam on Burnt Creek. Trail. This elevated deck provides an The dam was breached after World excellent vantage point for observing War II. wildlife around the beaver pond and 5. Old Decatur Water Works surrounding woodlands. Ruins (c. 1900s)—down a short side 13. Kiser Memorial Bird Garden— trail from the PATH Trail, concrete This small area within the preserve, foundations and structures are all named in memory of preserve that remain of the complex that pro- supporter Martha Kiser, provides vided Decatur’s water supply in the habitat and feeding stations for early 20th century, and the water songbirds. supply for the nearby military base 14. Preserve Interpretive Trail— 286 during World War II. Note: Caution a short loop trail offers informa- should be exercised around the ruins. tional markers that provide details 6. CSX Railroad Tracks—A bridge on the preserve’s wildlife and plant over the tracks extends the PATH life. It was developed jointly by pre- Trail to Mason Mill Park. serve members and the Emory 7. Clyde Shepherd Nature Pre- Ofﬁce of University and Community serve Information Board and Trail Partnerships. Head (2006)—Wood Tr. at Pine Bluff South Peachtree Creek PATH Trail and Clyde Shepherd Nature Preserve SPECIAL FEATURES AND EVENTS u Atlanta Audubon Society offers bird and wildlife watching programs at the Nature Preserve. For information on planned events, visit www.atlantaaudubon.org. u The Clyde Shepherd Nature Preserve offers volunteer opportunities, nature tours, and community events. u Medlock Park has a community pool and hosts baseball and softball leagues and tournaments.

NEARBY ATTRACTIONS u Mason Mill Park and DeKalb Tennis Center—1400 McConnell Dr. The park offers multiuse ﬁelds, full- service tennis complex, a dog park, and programs for special popula- tions. u North DeKalb Mall— 2050 Lawrenceville Hwy. This regional shopping center features more than 80 retail stores, restaurants, and a 16-screen movie theater.

OTHER WALKS IN THE AREA #18 Emory University #39 Historic Decatur #40 Avondale Estates #41 Stone Mountain Memorial Park 287 AROUND ATLANTA C H A P T E R 3 9

rolling. Good sidewalks line most of Historic the trail, and shade trees shelter the residential streets. The Atlanta– Decatur Stone Mountain PATH Trail follows the railroad corridor between downtown and the Agnes Scott College campus and another short PATH trail links the campus with the Oakhurst neighborhood. Visitor information is available from the DeKalb Convention and Visitors Bureau at 404-378-2525 and from the Decatur Downtown Development Authority at 404-371-8386; www.decatur-ga.com.

LOCATION DRIVING DIRECTIONS About 6 miles east of Atlanta. The Travel Ponce de Leon Ave. walk begins at the Old DeKalb County east to West Ponce de Leon Ave. to Courthouse on the town square. the town square; or travel I-285 to GPS: N33.46.483/W84.17.746 Law renceville Hwy. (exit 38), then south to Church St., right on Ponce TRAIL DISTANCE de Leon Ave. and travel one block to The loop that begins and ends the square. at the Old Courthouse is about 6 miles. A side trip to the Parking Decatur City Cemetery adds about A few metered parking spaces are 288 0.5 mile to the walk. available (including Saturdays) around the square, and a large com- TERRAIN mercial parking facility adjoins the The Old Courthouse and present courthouse. There is also lim- the Agnes Scott College ited parking along some side streets. Campus sit astride parallel east-west ridgelines with a gentle descent to a PUBLIC TRANSPORTATION valley almost midway between them. The Decatur MARTA rail sta- The loop through Oakhurst is gently tion is adjacent to the Court- house Square, and the Avondale Historic Dacatur

Decatur bandstand

Station is just east of Glenn and of these two trails proved a natural Sycamore Sts. MARTA: 404-848- choice for a settlement. 5000; www.itsmarta.com By 1823, 14 years before the founding of Atlanta, the town of Decatur BACKGROUND was chartered by act of the state leg- Centuries before the coming of white islature as the seat of government settlers, native Creek and Cherokee for recently created DeKalb County, established travel and trade routes named for Revolutionary War hero between villages throughout the Baron Johann DeKalb. At the time, region, carving footpaths through there was great national acclaim for the heavily forested wilderness. the naval hero Stephen Decatur, who The heart of Decatur straddles had recently died in a duel. Decatur the intersection of two of these had distinguished himself in action ancient pathways, the Shallow Ford against pirates off the coast of and Sand Town Trails. The first trail Tri poli in 1804, and later against the connected settlements and fishing superior forces of the British navy in grounds along the banks of the the War of 1812. Despite the fact that Chattahoochee River to villages in he never had visited Georgia, the 289 the central part of the state. The local citizens honored him when second traced a route between the naming their settlement. large settlement of Sand Town and Within a few years, Decatur was a the ritual meeting grounds at Stone thriving community of traders, farm- Mountain. The first white explorers ers, and merchants that was well sit- and early settlers chose these exist- uated on the main wagon roads ing routes through the wilderness leading from coastal cities such as for their travels, and the intersection Savannah and Charleston to settle- AROUND ATLANTA ments in the interior. them when an urgent Railroad surveyors message from Con- searching for a pro- federate commander posed railway line Gen. John B. Hood route from Augusta ordered him to visited Decatur, but return to the battle- met stiff opposition field. The fighting from many local citi- in and around zens who feared that Decatur—and its filthy, noisy trains occupation by Fed- would disturb their eral troops after pastoral village. Oth- Atlanta’s capture— ers saw the benefits left much of the vil- the railroad might lage in ruins. An bring and supported eyewitness account Agnes Scott Hall the effort. In the end, of the war’s death Decatur’s terrain and devastation was proved unsatisfactory written by a Decatur for the location of the line. woman, Mary Gay, who chronicled The surveyors found a suitable her experiences in a popular book, site for the railroad terminus about 8 Life in Dixie During the War, first miles west of Decatur. The rough set- published in 1892. tlement that grew up around the rail- After the war, Decatur rebuilt road tracks eventually became the slowly and in 1893 was connected to city of Atlanta, which has since over- nearby Atlanta by electric trolley. This shadowed its quiet, older neighbor. link was renewed nearly 90 years later During the Civil War, Atlanta was with the opening of Decatur’s MARTA the transportation center and supply rail station on the town square. arsenal for the Confederacy and a Decatur established itself as an key strategic target of the invading academic center with the 1888 Union armies. Decatur’s proximity to founding of the Decatur Female Atlanta and its key position along Seminary. A major benefactor of the 290 the Georgia Railroad line brought school was Col. George Washington fierce fighting to the town square on Scott, and in 1889, the institution July 22, 1864. As the two great armies was renamed for his mother, Agnes. clashed a few miles west in the piv- A few years later, Emory University otal Battle of Atlanta, Gen. Joseph (see #18) relocated from Covington, Wheeler’s Confederate cavalry Ga., to its current campus near raided the Union supply trains at Decatur on land donated by Asa G. Decatur. Wheeler drove them out of Candler, founder of The Coca-Cola the town and was poised to destroy Company. Historic Dacatur South of Agnes Scott is the small NOTABLE PLACES village of Oakhurst, which was once 1. Old Courthouse (1898, home to the Scottish Rite Hospital for 1917)—101 East Court Sq. Crippled Children. The hospital relo- This Georgian-style building, con- cated to north DeKalb many years structed of Stone Mountain granite, ago but the original complex remains sits on the site of the original court- as a community center surrounded by house built in 1823. The present local shops and restaurants. building was nearly destroyed by fire Through the years, the bound- in 1916 and was remodeled in 1917. aries between Decatur and Atlanta The seat of government was moved have blurred as the metropolitan to a new courthouse in 1966. area has grown. Yet the heart of The old courthouse building is Decatur still conveys a small-town now the headquarters of the DeKalb atmosphere. Historical Society and has undergone extensive renovations. The Society’s HISTORICAL MARKERS Jim Cherry Museum houses artifacts 1. Steatite Boulder—north- tracing local history. The clock is one west corner of Old Court- of only three remaining hand-wound house grounds courthouse timepieces in Georgia. 2. DeKalb County—north side of The bandstand on the plaza behind Old Courthouse grounds the building was constructed in 1996 3. Wheeler’s Cavalry at Decatur— and dedicated to longtime Decatur north side of Old Courthouse businessman and state legislator J. grounds Robin Harris. East of the bandstand 4. Stoneman Raid—southwest is an open plaza with a whimsical side of Old Courthouse grounds sculpture. Hours: 9 AM–4 PM, Mon.– 5. Garrard’s Cavalry Raid—south Fri. Information: 404-373-1088; side of Old Courthouse grounds www.dekalbhistory.org NR 6. Indian Trails of Dekalb 2. Pythagoras Masonic Temple County—south steps of Old Court- (1924)—108 E. Ponce de Leon Ave. house This 3-story sandstone brick building 7. Battle of Decatur—July 22, with its ornate entrance was designed 1864—stone monument on the lawn by William Sayward and built for the 291 of Agnes Scott College local Masonic lodge. It is now an 8. Decatur Cemetery—inside office building. NR Commerce Dr. entrance to cemetery 3. DeKalb County Courthouse 9. Swanton House—W. Trinity Pl. (1966)—N. McDonough St. at in front of the historic buildings W. Trinity Pl. This modern high-rise, complex marble and steel building replaced 10. Gay House—W. Trinity Pl. in the old courthouse as the seat of front of historic buildings complex county government. AROUND ATLANTA 4. Decatur City Hall (1930)— porch that extends the length of 509 N. McDonough St. Designed in the building. the Neoclassical Revival style, the C. Agnes Scott Hall (1891)—This building once included the library ornate, four-story red brick building, and city jail. The ground floor designed in the Collegiate Gothic houses the offices of the Decatur style by the firm of Bruce and Mor- Downtown Development Authority. gan, dominates the campus com- 5. The Marble House (1885)— mon. It now houses administrative 119 N. McDonough St. This house offices. with a mansard roof is characteristic D. Inman Hall (1910)—A three- of the Second Empire style. It draws story brick dormitory just east of its name from the stucco exterior, Agnes Scott Hall. which resembles marble. For a num- E. Wallace M. Alston Student ber of years it was home to students Center (1925)—Formerly the Bucher boarding at Agnes Scott College. Scott gymnasium, this building 6. Agnes Scott College (1889)— has been renovated and serves as E. College Ave. between S. McDo- student activities offices, snack bar, nough and S. Candler Sts. Founded dance studio, and chapel. as the Decatur Female Seminary in F. McCain Library (1936)— 1888, the school received generous Designed by the firm of Edwards and financial and organizational support Sayler in the Gothic style, this build- from Col. George W. Scott. His ini- ing houses the main campus library. tial contribution permitted construc- G. Buttrick Hall (1930)—This class- tion of the first permanent building, room building was designed in the Agnes Scott Hall, in 1890. Informa- Gothic Revival style by the firm of tion about the Agnes Scott campus Edwards and Sayler. and college events is available at H. The Gazebo (1890s)—Originally 404-471-4285; www.agnesscott.edu. an enclosed well house, the structure Buildings on the campus that are was rebuilt and relocated to the of particular interest include: common. A. McCain Arch (1890s)—This I. Presser Hall (1940)—Similar in ornate brick and masonry arch is the style to McCain and Buttrick Halls, 292 symbolic entrance to the campus. this building contains the Frank The arch is directly across College Gaines Memorial Chapel and is the Ave. from the tunnel under the rail- site of major campus assemblies. road tracks. J. Charles F. Dana Fine Arts Build- B. Rebekah Scott Hall (1905)— ing (1960s)—A modern facility with a Connected to the western corner of multiple vaulted roof, the center was Agnes Scott Hall, this pink brick, an early design by John Portman. three-story structure is noted for K. Robert W. Woodruff Physical the white-columned Italianate-style Activities Center (1988)—south of Historic Dacatur

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Dougherty St. This athletic center 8. Oakhurst Neighborhood provides a full range of exercise facil- Center (1910s)—Oakview Rd., East ities and programs for faculty, staff, Lake Dr., and W. Hill St. Incorpo- and students. rated in 1910, this neighborhood L. Bradley Observatory (1930s)— was annexed into Decatur in 1916. south of Dougherty St. This red brick A few of the area’s Craftsman-style building holds a revolving observa- homes were designed by Leila Ross tory dome housing one of the largest Wil burn, an Agnes Scott graduate telescopes in the southeast. The and Atlanta’s first licensed female observatory was renovated and architect. For many years, the small expanded to include the new business district catered to staff and Delafield Planetarium in 2000. Note patients at nearby Scottish Rite Hos- the unusual representation of the pital. The area declined following Solar System in the Celestial Spheres the hospital’s relocation to North design in the Observatory Plaza. DeKalb in the 1970s but began a ren- 294 Information: www.agnesscott.edu/ aissance in the 1980s. Today it is a academics/bradleyobservatory. cozy village featuring street-side 7. Oakhurst Community Garden shops, restaurants, and galleries. Project—S. McDonough St. at 9. Old Scottish Rite Hospital Oakview Rd. This small greenspace (1918)—originally established as a features flower and vegetable gar- convalescent facility for indigent chil- dens planted and tended by local dren following surgery at Piedmont residents. Gardening workshops and or Wesley Memorial (later Emory classes are offered. University) Hospitals, this structure Historic Dacatur was designed by Neel Reid and Hal metal spire. Candler was a promi- Hentz and opened for patients in nent attorney, a state legislator, and 1918. The hospital for many years the eldest brother of Asa G. Candler, cared for poor children crippled by founder of The Coca-Cola Company. polio and served as a model for 14. Decatur Freight Depot (1891)— nearly two dozen other Shriners’ 301 E. Howard Ave. This frame build- hospitals around the nation. It evening, adjacent to the railroad tracks, tually outgrew this facility. In 1976, long served as the city’s main freight a modern Scottish Rite Hospital terminal. After renovations that (now part of Children’s Healthcare included moving it farther away from of Atlanta) opened in north DeKalb. the railroad tracks, it now houses a Three years later, this building restaurant. became a community center. 15. High House (1830)—309 Syca - 10. Agnes Scott College Presi- more St. Built by Hiram Williams, dent’s Home (1910s)—Dougherty and this frame house is one of the oldest S. Candler Sts. Designed to comple- existing structures in Decatur. Its ment the architectural style of other name was derived from its two-story campus buildings, the house is height, which set it apart from exist- notable for its small portico sup- ing buildings. Expanded and remod- ported by Ionic columns. Poet Robert eled, it is now attorneys’ offices. Frost stayed here during many of his 16. First United Methodist annual pilgrimages to Atlanta. Church Chapel (1897)—Sycamore St. 11. Bucher-Scott House (1885)— at Commerce Dr. This congregation 312 S. Candler St. Built by the son of was first organized in 1826. The Col. George Scott, this frame home rough-hewn stone chapel, high- features the styling and ornamenta- lighted by the four-story bell tower, tion of Victorian-era architecture. is on the site of the original church. 12. Charles Murphy Candler 17. John Pearce House (1876)— House (1885)—158 S. Candler St. Like 428 Sycamore St. Originally a much the nearby Scott house, the home smaller structure, the house has has the ornate details of Victorian undergone several phases of expan- architecture. A prominent Decatur sion through the years. Special fea- attorney, Charles M. Candler was tures include the shell designs carved 295 the son of Milton Candler (whose on the gables, the rising sun orna- home is next door) and son-in-law mentation above the latticework of Col. George Scott. front porch, and the two ornate 13. Milton A. Candler House brick chimneys. This and other sur- (1889)—146 S. Candler St. This com- rounding houses along Sycamore St. fortable frame home, nearly hidden were part of Decatur’s first outlying behind massive magnolia trees, fea- subdivision, established in the last tures a curved porch topped with a decades of the 19th century. AROUND ATLANTA

Decatur plaza fountain

18. Glendale Neighborhood 20. DeKalb Historical Society (1920s)—Glenlake and Northcrest Historic Buildings Complex—720 W. Aves. and adjacent streets. This area Trinity Pl. off W. Ponce de Leon of larger homes was one of Decatur’s Ave. This complex, operated by the first automobile neighborhoods. DeKalb Historical Society, contains 19. Old Decatur Cemetery three restored homes from Decatur’s (1830s)—off Commerce Dr. This burial early days: ground, the oldest public cemetery in A. The John Biffle Cabin (1822)— the Atlanta area, has been in continu- A log-and-plank structure typical of ous operation since the 1820s. Many the homes built by the area’s first of Decatur’s earliest settlers and settlers, the cabin was built by a Rev- prominent citizens are interred here, olutionary War veteran who settled including Revolutionary War veteran in DeKalb County in the early 1820s. Col. James McNeil; Capt. William The cabin was relocated to this site Towers, who fought alongside Gen. in the 1970s. 296 Andrew Jackson at the 1815 Battle of B. The Swanton House (c. 1825)— New Orleans; Dr. Thomas Chivers, Built by Benjamin F. Swanton for his physician, poet, and friend of Edgar family, this is an example of the Allen Poe; author Mary Gay; and simple frame homes typical of ante- Capt. John Prather, who was buried bellum Decatur. Believed to be here 56 years after he fought on this the oldest house in Decatur, it was ground as a Confederate cavalryman. the home of the Swanton family for The southern section of the cemetery nearly 120 years before being contains the oldest burial sites. acquired by the historical society Historic Dacatur and relocated to its present site. Information: 404-471-4285; C. Thomas-Barber Cabin (1830s)— www.agnessscott.edu This log cabin, moved from near the Annual events in downtown South River, was built by pioneers. Decatur include: The buildings in the complex are u Decatur Arts Festival— open by appointment. Information: Memorial Day weekend 404-373-1088; www.dekalbhistory.org u Concerts on the Square—May 21. The Mary Gay House (1830– and September 50)—Originally located on Marshall u Decatur Beach Party—June St., this frame house was relocated u Parade and fireworks on the to the area adjacent to the historic Square—July 4th building complex in 1979. Mary u Decatur Book Festival—Labor Gay, who lived to be 89 years old, Day weekend recounted her experiences during the u Decatur Garden Tour— Civil War in the book, Life in Dixie September During the War. The home is owned u Candlelight Tour of Homes— by the Junior League of DeKalb December County. Information: 404-378-4536 Information: 404-371-8386; 22. M.A.K. Historic District www.decatur-ga.com (1900s)—McDonough, Adams, and Kings Hwy. Decatur’s first residential NEARBY ATTRACTIONS subdivision, the area was developed u Carlos Museum at Emory by John and Poleman Weeks between University 1907 and 1930. It is notable for its u Fernbank Science Center and many well-preserved craftsman bun- Natural History Museum galows, some of which were designed u Glenlake Park—athletic fields, by Leila Ross Wilburn. tennis courts, picnic areas u Woodlands Garden, a nature SPECIAL FEATURES AND EVENTS habitat and historic family garden u Exhibitions: The DeKalb Histor- managed by the Decatur Preserva- ical Society maintains its headquar- tion Alliance Information: www. ters in the Old Courthouse with a decaturpreservationalliance.org/ museum, which hosts a variety of woodlandsgarden/ 297 exhibitions throughout the year. Hours: 9 AM–4 PM, Mon.–Fri. OTHER WALKS IN THE AREA Information: 404-373-1088 #16 Druid Hills u Agnes Scott College programs: #17 Fernbank Forest The college sponsors theatrical pro- #18 Emory University grams, concerts, seminars, and other #40 Avondale Estates programs during the year. Many pre- #41 Stone Mountain sentations are open to the public. Memorial Park AROUND ATLANTA C H A P T E R 4 0

Leon becomes East Ponce de Leon Avondale Ave. at the Decatur Square.) Travel south (right) at Sams Crossing for Estates one block, east (left) on East College Ave. (U.S. 278), which becomes North Avondale Rd. Turn south on Clarendon Ave. to South Avondale Rd., or travel I-285 to Memorial Dr. (exit 41), west on Memorial Dr., northwest (right) on Mountain Dr., to Covington Hwy. (U.S. 278) and turn west. Turn south on Clarendon Ave. to South Avondale Rd.

LOCATION Parking About 7 miles east of downtown. The Some on-street parking is available walk begins by the town clock on Cla - within the residential area and in the rendon Ave. at South Avondale Rd. commercial district across North GPS: N33.46.490/W 84.16.055 Avondale Rd. and Covington Hwy.

TRAIL DISTANCE PUBLIC TRANSPORTATION The winding loop through The Avondale rail station the neighborhood is about is located on East College 4.4 miles. Ave. 0.25 mile west of the neighborhood. MARTA: 404-848-5000; TERRAIN www.itsmarta.com The moderately rolling ter- 298 rain features an abundance BACKGROUND of shade trees and attractive land- Envisioned by patent medicine mil- scaping. The neighborhood has an lionaire George F. Willis in the early excellent network of sidewalks. 1920s, Avondale Estates was a nationally heralded pioneering con- DRIVING DIRECTIONS cept in completely self-contained Travel west on Ponce de Leon residential development. Ave. to West Ponce de Leon Ave. Willis began by purchasing the through Decatur. (West Ponce de existing small community of Ingle- Avondale Estates

Avondale Estates village side and, from 1924 to 1928, he trans- Kensington Rd., and Avondale Plaza. formed nearly 1,000 acres of rolling See number 9 below for additional forest, meadow, and farmland into information. the subdivision of Avondale Estates. Willis included features such as NOTABLE PLACES winding, tree-lined streets; small 1. Avondale Estates Com- parks; clubhouses; a pool; a lake; mercial District (1920s)— and a Tudor-style commercial dis- N. Avondale Rd. These Tudor-style trict intended to give the feeling of buildings were part of George an English village. Some early homes Willis’s original concept for the copied this design to some degree, community and continue to serve but most were built according to as the area’s business center. more traditional styles. 2. Avondale Estates Clock Tower From its founding, Avondale (1976)—S. Avondale Rd. at Clarendon Estates has retained a strong sense Ave. This roofed pavilion topped with of identity. In 1926, by act of the a Tudor-style clock tower was erected state legislature, it was designated a to commemorate the U.S. Bicenten- city with a mayor, a police depart- nial and the 50th anniversary of the ment, and a post office. It is listed founding of Avondale Estates. 299 on the National Register of Historic 3. Dewey Brown Plaza including Places. Information: 404-294-5400; 9-11 Memorial and 50-Year Time www.avondaleestates.org Capsule (2007)—Avondale Plaza Park. This small park, named for HISTORICAL MARKERS longtime Avondale mayor and police 1. Gutzon Borglum House— chief, M. Dewey Brown, features a Avondale Estates, at the time capsule buried by the Avondale intersection of Berkeley Rd., Campfire Girls in 1983, and a memo- AROUND ATLANTA rial marker and flag- sculptor Gutzon Bor- pole dedicated to the glum, a friend of victims of the Sept. 11, George Willis, while 2001, attacks. he worked on the 4. George F. Willis original carvings for Park (1940)—adjacent the Stone Mountain to the Swim and Ten- Confederate Memo- nis Club. This park rial. Borglum left the offers game fields, a project over a finan- basketball court, a cial dispute in 1925 playground, and a and later gained picnic area. fame sculpting the 5. Avondale presidential monu- Estates Swim and Lake Avondale ment on Mount Tennis Club (1929)— Rushmore. Fairfield Plaza at 9. Original Lamp Dartmouth Ave. This private facility Post (1928)—in the median on Berke- for neighborhood residents features ley Rd. This ornate lamppost was a pool, tennis courts, and a Tudor- part of Avondale’s first lighting style clubhouse. system. 6. Bess Walker Memorial Park and Lake Avondale (1928)—Berkeley SPECIAL FEATURES AND EVENTS Rd. and Lakeshore Dr. This park u Avondale Estates Fun Run— contains wooded nature trails cir- Labor Day cling Lake Avondale, an ideal spot u Autumn Fest—October for fishing and canoeing. Like the u The lighting of the community Swim and Tennis Club, this lake is Christmas tree on Avondale Plaza— for the exclusive use of city residents. December 7. Avondale Estates Garden Club u Christmas Tour of Homes— Bird Sanctuary (1940)—Wiltshire Dr. December across from Lake Avondale. This small, forested area was set aside as NEARBY ATTRACTIONS 300 a wildlife habitat. u Agnes Scott College 8. Avondale Estates Community u Downtown Decatur Club (1926)—This Tudor-style club- u Stone Mountain Park house offers a lakeside gathering place for Avondale Estates residents OTHER WALKS IN THE AREA and for special events. #18 Emory University 9. Gutzon Borglum House #39 Historic Decatur (1924)—at Berkeley and Kensington #41 Stone Mountain Rds. This home was occupied by the Memorial Park Avondale Estates

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GPS: N 33. 46. 490 W 84. 15. 055 AROUND ATLANTA C H A P T E R 4 1

far the most popular trail in the Stone park, this path follows the gentler slope from the western base of the Mountain mountain to its summit. A few steep sections close to the top make this a Memorial strenuous walk. This path allows the visitor a close-up view of some mar- Park velous geology and unique flora of this massive rock. Many visitors buy a one-way ticket on the skylift so they can ride up and walk down or vice-versa. A rest area with water is a welcomed stop at about the halfway point. The Walk-Up Trail was designated a National Historic Trail in LOCATION 1971. The hike begins behind Confed- About 16 miles east of downtown. erate Hall. See below for GPS designations. The GPS: N33.48.483/W84.09.860 park is open from 6AM to midnight 2. The Cherokee Trail (5 miles, daily; attractions open at 10AM. For marked with white blazes). This information call 770-498-5690 or 800- strenuous trail encircles the moun- 317-2006; www.stonemountainpark.com. tain and provides the hiker with the Note: Each vehicle entering the park opportunity to explore the mountain is charged an admission fee. Visitors itself and the forest areas around its may choose single-day or annual passes. base. Visitors seeking the full Stone Certain attractions charge additional Mountain environment may prefer admission fees. this trail. Hikers may begin and end 302 this walk from numerous locations in TRAIL DISTANCE the park. An excellent location to Three longer trails and one begin the hike is by the Old Grist Mill. shorter trail are highlighted GPS: N33.48.434/W84.08.051 here. Trail distances may be adjusted 3. Robert E. Lee Blvd. (5 miles). by the use of a shuttle, automobile, This main road follows the circum- train, or skylift. ference of the mountain. It is popu- 1. The Walk-Up Trail (1.3 miles one lar with joggers, bicyclists, and way, marked with yellow blazes). By walkers. Good sidewalks parallel the Stone Mountain Memorial Park road for the entire loop. You may lakes. This trail showcases the diver- begin the hike anywhere along the sity of the park’s environment. loop. A good location is by Memo- Both the Walk-Up and Cherokee rial Hall. Trails require sturdy walking shoes GPS: N33.48.812/W84.08.510 or boots as well as a good level of 4. The Nature Gardens Trail physical conditioning. The trail (0.75 mile). This self-guided trail along Robert E. Lee Blvd. climbs forms a loop through a forested area several moderate hills, but provides just south of the Walk-Up Trail. The a less strenuous way to walk or bicy- path is designed to be a leisurely cle around the mountain. hike in the woods at the mountain’s The Nature Gardens and Wildlife base and offers interpretive markers Preserve trails are both leisurely describing the area’s unique vegeta- walks along wide, graded paths tion and geology. Access it from the through the forest. The Wildlife Pre- Youth Area parking lot on Lee Blvd. serve does contain a fairly steep GPS: N33.48.339/W84.09.651 descent to the waterfowl area and a In addition to these trails within corresponding ascent back to the the park, the PATH Foundation’s entrance. Atlanta–Stone Mountain Trail links the western edge of the park with DRIVING DIRECTIONS the trail system connecting to down- Travel I-285 to Stone Moun- town Atlanta. tain Pkwy. (exit 39), which is also GA 78, east about 10 miles to the TERRAIN park entrance; or travel Ponce de The Walk-Up Trail involves Leon Ave. east from downtown, bear an 800-foot elevation gain left onto Scott Blvd., which becomes in just over 1 mile, with some particu- Lawrenceville Hwy., then bear right larly steep sections close to the sum- onto Stone Mountain Pkwy. and mit. Metal handrails are provided proceed to the park entrance. in these areas for assistance. At the top, hikers are vulnerable to the ele- Parking ments, so it is essential to know the Parking is available at various loca- weather conditions and prepare tions throughout the park, with the 303 before starting out. largest facilities adjacent to the rail- The Cherokee Trail alternates road depot on Robert E. Lee Blvd. between rough, rocky terrain along the mountain’s side and forest paths PUBLIC TRANSPORTATION along its base. It combines some Regular MARTA bus service steep scrambles along the moun- (#121 Stone Mountain) runs tain’s western flank with some quiet between the Kensington rail station woodland strolls along several park and Stone Mountain Village, just AROUND ATLANTA west of the park entrance. MARTA: By the mid-19th century, the 404-848-5000; www.itsmarta.com Creek had ceded their lands to the government, and white settlers BACKGROUND began to control this area. One early Looking east from downtown settler, an enterprising pioneer Atlanta, the rolling terrain is almost named Aaron Cloud, saw the moun- unbroken except for the unmistak- tain as a tourist attraction. He con- able turtle shell–shaped profile of structed a 100-foot-high tower on Stone Mountain. This huge mound the summit with a tavern at the of rock, which geologists call a mon- tower’s base. Sightseers came on adnock, is the world’s largest mass of foot, on horseback, by wagon, and exposed granite, rising over 800 feet eventually by train to climb the above the surrounding countryside. mountain and enjoy the hospitality The visible part of the mountain cov- of “Cloud’s Tower.” ers nearly 600 acres, and scientists Because of the mountain’s value believe that the overwhelming major- as a tourist attraction and the good ity of the formation remains buried farmland around it, the area’s for- deep within the earth. Geologists tunes grew. By 1839, the town of New estimate that it took 300 million Gibraltar had been established near years of erosion and weathering to the mountain’s western base. From uncover the mountain we see today. the 1840s until the Civil War, Stone It is little wonder that the moun- Mountain developed into a popular tain has been a landmark for cen- resort, and the town was a regular turies. Creek Indians called it “Ther - stop on the railroad line between rethlofkee,” which meant “on the Atlanta and Augusta. A favorite pas- side of the Chattahoochee where time of the day was a train ride to the there are no other mountains.” They mountain followed by a picnic and a and other tribes used the mountain hike to the summit. To this day, many for ritual gatherings, as a lookout, visitors enjoy the park this way. and occasionally as a fortress. During the Civil War campaign Scholars believe that the first around Atlanta in 1864, there was lit- Europeans to have seen it were Span- tle fighting in the Stone Mountain 304 ish explorers. Traveling north from area, but Federal troops destroyed St. Augustine, Florida, in the late Cloud’s Tower and other buildings 1500s, they wrote in their journals of on top of the mountain. However, in seeing a “crystal mountain.” Two the first decades after the war, the centuries later, when Pres. George tourist trade quickly returned. Washington sent Col. Marinus Willet In 1915, the United Daughters of as an emissary to the Creek Indians, the Confederacy conceived the idea he reported seeing a “stoney moun- of carving the face of the mountain tain” deep in the wilderness. as a memorial to “the lost cause.” Stone Mountain Memorial Park They commissioned Today the 3,200- sculptor Gutzon acre park includes Borglum, who later a 36-hole champi- carved the figures onship golf course, on Mount Rush- a large lake, an more, to perform 1870s living history the task. Work village, an authentic began in 1923, but steam train that Borglum had travels a 5-mile loop numerous disputes around the moun- with the sponsors, tain, a fun-filled and by 1925 was children’s barn, replaced by Augus- a re-created ante- tus Lukeman, who bellum plantation, carved the head of a skylift to the Cherokee Trail on face of mountain Gen. Robert E. Lee mountain’s summit, before the project’s a motor inn, resort, funds ran out in conference center, 1928 and work was halted. and other attractions. The park For more than 30 years the carv- played a significant role in the stag- ing remained as Lukeman left it. ing of the 1996 Olympic Games, serv- Then, in 1958, the State of Georgia ing as the venue for tennis, archery, purchased the property and created cycling, and the pentathlon. the Stone Mountain Park Memorial Seasonal festivals, laser shows, Association to complete the carving rambling railway rides, and brisk and develop a multiuse park around hikes to the summit for panoramic the mountain. A third sculptor, views of Atlanta make Stone Moun- Walker Hancock, and carver Roy tain a favorite destination at any Faulkner were chosen to finish the time of year. carving. The three mounted figures of Lee, Confederate Pres. Jefferson HISTORICAL MARKERS Davis, and Gen. Stonewall Jackson 1. Covered Bridge—western were unveiled at a ceremony side of the bridge off of 305 attended by Vice Pres. Spiro Agnew Robert E. Lee Blvd. in 1970. Today, the 90-foot-by-190- 2. Old Indian Trail—0.5 mile from foot bas-relief carving located 400 the summit on the Walk-Up Trail. feet up the side of the mountain remains the largest sculpture of its NOTABLE PLACES type in the world. 1. The Discovering Stone Stone Mountain Park is Georgia’s Mountain Museum at most popular tourist attraction. Memorial Hall—Robert E. Lee Blvd. AROUND ATLANTA across from the Stone Mountain Inn. Thomas Thornton and was moved to The museum, located in Stone Moun- Stone Mountain Park in 1967. tain Memorial Hall, commands an D. Slave Cabins (c. 1830)—These impressive view of the carving on the two cabins, one for a family and one north face of the mountain. Exhibits for a single occupant, were originally trace the natural and human history from the Graves plantation near of the mountain and its monumental Covington, Ga. carving. The building’s porch and E. Barn (1800)—This barn was the large grass common provide an built on a farm near Calhoun, Ga. excellent vantage point for viewing The square-hewn timbers added the carving and to enjoy the laser structural strength. Behind the barn show (held on weekends in spring is a farmyard operated by Zoo and fall and each evening in the sum- Atlanta, with live animals to see mer). An additional fee is charged for and touch. the museum. F. Coach House (1990)—Designed 2. The Antebellum Plantation in Georgian style from the antebellum and Farmyard (1790–1845)—Robert E. period, this replica was built on its Lee Blvd. at Jefferson Davis Dr. This original site with handmade bricks. re-creation of a pre–Civil War plan- G. The Main House (1845)—This tation is composed of authentic well-proportioned Greek Revival– structures relocated here from vari- style home was built near Albany, ous locations in Georgia. An addi- Ga., by Charles Davis and is repre- tional admission fee is charged. The sentative of a plantation main house buildings include: of the period. It was purchased from A. Kingston House (1845)—Built descendants of the original owner as an overseer’s house on the Allen and moved to the park in 1961. plantation near Kingston, Ga., it is a Included with the main house are simple interpretation of the Greek a kitchen house, necessary house Revival style. (outhouse), office, and gardens. B. Dr. Chapmon Powell’s Cabin 3. River Boat Dock and Marina— (c. 1826)—Built by one of DeKalb Robert E. Lee Blvd. The facility, County’s first physicians, the struc- the mooring for the authentic pad- 306 ture served as both home and office. dle-wheeler Scarlett O’Hara, also A frequent visitor was Mittie Bulloch provides seasonal canoe and paddle - Roosevelt, mother of Theodore Roo- boat rentals. sevelt, who was a friend of the Pow- 4. Quarry Exhibit—Robert E. Lee ell family. Blvd. A short trail leads to a portion C. The Thornton House (1791)— of the mountain heavily quarried One of the last remaining 18th-century years ago for its renowned granite. plantation houses built in Geor gia, 5. Grist Mill (c. 1870)—Robert E. it was constructed in Greene Co. by Lee Blvd. This mill was originally Stone Mountain Memorial Park

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Old Grist Mill on Cherokee Trail

located near Ellijay, Ga., and moved The depot is the departure point for to the park in 1965. Products from the the authentic locomotive that carries mill (cornmeal, whole wheat flour, passengers on a 5-mile circuit around and rye flour, as well as local honey) the base of the mountain. Riders are for sale in the mill’s gift shop. enjoy a recorded program about the 6. Covered Bridge (1891)— mountain’s geological and human Between Robert E. Lee Blvd. and history during the trip. An additional Stone Mountain Lake. This lattice- fee is charged. style bridge originally spanned the 10. Mountain Top Tower—summit Oconee River outside Athens, Ga. of the mountain. This building con- 7. Confederate Hall—adjacent to tains the skylift lobby and gift shop. the Walk-Up Trail on Robert E. Lee 11. Stone Mountain Carillon and Blvd. This building contains a dio- Amphitheater—on the lakefront rama with illuminated displays off John B. Gordon Rd. Moved to marking the Civil War campaigns in the park after performing at the Georgia. A recorded narrative 1964 World’s Fair in New York, the describes the action depicted. An 732-bell carillon plays its tunes at var- admission fee is charged. ious times each day. 308 8. Crossroads (2001)—Robert E. 12. Stone Mountain Golf Course— Lee Blvd. Step back to the 1870s in on Stonewall Jackson Dr. This 36-hole this living history village filled with championship course, designed by artisans, shops, and the Tall Tales of Robert Trent Jones and John La Foy, is the South 4-D Theater. Adjacent to consistently rated among the best Crossroads is the Great Barn, with 4 public courses in the United States by stories of activities for children. Golf Digest magazine. Information 9. Stone Mountain Scenic Rail- and tee times: 1-866-355-4653; road and Depot—Robert E. Lee Blvd. www.stonemountainpark.com Stone Mountain Memorial Park 13. Evergreen Conference and fall. Show information: 770-498- Resort—Stonewall Jackson Dr. This 5633. full-service resort on the shores of Overnight accommodations are Stone Mountain Lake offers lodging, available at the Family Campground dining, and meeting facilities. Infor- (Information: 770-498-5710 or 800- mation: 1-888-670-2250, or through 385-9807); the Stone Mountain Inn park website. (Information: 770-469-3311, 888-670- 14. Stone Mountain Village 2250; www.mariott.com/atlsi); and the (1830s)—Mountain St. Founded as Evergreen Conference Resort (Infor- the village of New Gibraltar, the mation: 770-879-9900). town has always welcomed tourists who came to explore the mountain. NEARBY ATTRACTIONS Today the village’s antebellum rail- u Stone Mountain Village road depot (c. 1857) serves as the shopping and dining district town hall, and the turn-of-the-century commercial buildings house OTHER WALKS IN THE AREA quaint shops, restaurants, and lodg- #39 Historic Decatur ings. The visitor center is located on #40 Avondale Estates Poole and Main Sts. #46 Davidson-Arabia Mountain Information: 770-498-7334; Heritage Preserve www.stonemountainvillage.com

SPECIAL FEATURES AND EVENTS The park hosts numerous special events throughout the year, from horse shows to arts and crafts fairs and musical concerts, including: u Fantastic Fourth Celebration— July u Yellow Daisy Festival— September u Chili Cookoff—October u Scottish Festival and Highland 309 Games—October u Tour of Southern Ghosts at the Antebellum Plantation—October u Pow Wow Indian Festival— November u A Southern Christmas— November/December u Laser Show—spring, summer, AROUND ATLANTA C H A P T E R 4 2

an ideal habitat for birds and small Reynolds wildlife, so hikers should be alert Nature and observant. DRIVING DIRECTIONS Preserve Travel I-75 south to Jonesboro Rd. (exit 233), also called GA 54, north on GA 54 about 2 miles turn west (left) onto Reynolds Rd. It is about 1 mile to the preserve entrance.

Parking There is a large parking area adjacent to the Nature Center and LOCATION another by Big Pond. About 18 miles from downtown. The preserve is located at 5665 Rey - BACKGROUND nolds Rd. The hike begins behind It may be hard for a visitor to imag- the nature center. ine that the rolling, wooded hills, GPS: N33.36.066/W84.20.809 streams, and ponds of the scenic Reynolds Nature Preserve were once TRAIL DISTANCE part of an active, hardworking farm. The preserve is crisscrossed Prior to the Civil War, Robert Huie by a 3.5-mile network of well purchased this property and farmed maintained, interconnecting trails it for nearly half a century. He built a leading through upland forest, along small cabin for his family and over 310 creek banks, and past several ponds. the years, as the family expanded, he Detailed trail maps are available at added to the modest home. By the the Nature Center. Pets are permit- time the property was acquired by ted on leash. William Reynolds in the 1920s, the cabin had grown to be a rambling TERRAIN two-story house with a veranda and The heavily wooded land is several outbuildings. rolling, with some moder- Reynolds had grown up on a farm ately steep ascents and descents. It is but chose a career in law and poli- Reynolds Nature Preserve

Judge Reynolds farm tics. He served in the Georgia legisla- trails, and small footbridges. ture, and later was appointed a sen- Today, the 146-acre William ior judge in Clayton County. Reynolds Nature Preserve is oper- Reynolds loved these old farmlands ated by the Clayton County Parks and spent many years reclaiming the and Recreation Department and ﬁelds, building ponds, and planting offers a wide variety of educational trees. His passion was native azaleas, programs. The preserve is open and he imported them from daily 8AM until dusk; the Nature throughout the Southeast and Center is open 8:30 AM–5:30 PM, planted them in his growing forest. Mon.–Fri. Information: 770-603-4188; People came from miles around to www.reynoldsnaturepreserve.org. see the breathtaking display of spring colors in his natural garden. NOTABLE PLACES In 1976, shortly before his death, 1. Nature Center (1980)— Judge Reynolds donated 130 acres of 5665 Reynolds Rd. The cen- 311 wetlands and woodlands to Clayton ter houses exhibits on the natural County as a permanent preserve and human history of the property. where people could stroll through It also has classroom space and an the forest, search for signs of wildlife, adjacent outdoor education area. and simply enjoy the natural beauty 2. Judge Reynolds House and he had so lovingly fostered. In 1979, Outbuildings (1860s–1920s)— federal grant funds were used to con- Reynolds Rd. northeast of the park- struct the Nature Center, pavilions, ing area. This rambling white frame AROUND ATLANTA

Pond observation deck

house was the first Huie residence NEARBY ATTRACTIONS and later the judge’s home. Adjacent u Clayton College and State are a large barn, sheds, and a veg- University. Information: 770-961- etable garden plot. The grounds are 3400: www.clayton.edu. The univer- landscaped with native azaleas and sity’s Spivey Hall is a world-class other flowering plants. It is currently performance facility. Event informa- the residence of the preserve man- tion: 770-961-3683. ager (private). u Georgia State Farmers 3. Azalea Pond Overlook— Market—the largest market of its A wooden platform sits on a hillside type in the state. Visitors can pur- overlooking the tranquil pond and chase fresh produce and other prod- beneath the Nature Center’s out- ucts right from the growers and enjoy door amphitheater. a meal made with fresh produce at 4. Big Pond—adjacent to the pic- the restaurant. Information: 404-366- nic area on Reynolds Rd. This large 6910. pond is home to ducks, fish, and u Southlake Mall. Anchored by water turtles. A favorite pastime is J.C. Penney, Macy’s, and Sears, the 312 feeding the animals from the dock. mall features more than 120 stores and restaurants. Information: SPECIAL FEATURES AND EVENTS www.southlakemall.com The preserve staff offers a wide variety of programs throughout the OTHER WALKS IN THE AREA year, including the Wetlands Festival #43 Historic Jonesboro (May) and nature camps for children. Contact the Nature Center at 770-603-4188 for details.

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Parking Historic Limited parking adjoins the railroad depot along Main St. and is also Jonesboro found on side streets. There is a large municipal parking lot on Mill St. west of the depot.

BACKGROUND Like many communities around Atlanta, Jonesboro offers a small- town atmosphere and convenient access to downtown Atlanta. Mar- garet Mitchell drew on her childhood memories of visiting her grandparents in Jonesboro and Clayton County to create the setting for the plantation Tara in Gone With the Wind. Tour - LOCATION ists still travel to the countryside in About 16 miles south of downtown. search of the mythical plantation, The walk begins at the historic rail- convinced that it really exists. road depot. Founded as the village of GPS: N33.31.282/W84.21.257 Leaksville in 1823, Jonesboro grew with the construction of the Central TRAIL DISTANCE of Georgia Railway in the 1830s. The loop trail through the Leaksville was renamed Jonesboro town is about 3.8 miles long. for Col. Samuel G. Jones, one of the railroad’s construction engineers. (It 314 TERRAIN was common practice in that day for This is a gently rolling, fairly towns that grew up around rail facil- level walk with numerous ities to be named by and for com- shade trees and some sidewalks. pany employees.) For many years, the rails provided access to Atlanta’s DRIVING DIRECTIONS warehouses for cotton and other Travel I-75 to GA 54 (exit 233), goods grown on nearby plantations. then south about 3.5 miles to the At the outbreak of the Civil War in railroad depot on Main St. 1861, many of Jonesboro’s young men Historic Jonesboro

Confederate cemetery enlisted in the Confederate Army, retreated north. For four crucial marching north to fight on distant days, Hood could not figure out battlefields. For three years the war where the Yankees had gone. Then, seemed far away, but in the spring of on August 30, he received word that 1864, Gen. William T. Sherman’s Union Gen. Oliver O. Howard’s invading armies—100,000 strong— troops from the Army of the Ten- entered northwest Georgia, deter- nessee had destroyed the West Point mined to capture Atlanta and march Railroad and were headed south to the sea. By August, the Union toward the other railway. Gen. Hood troops had Atlanta under siege, sev- dispatched Gen. William Hardee’s ering the city’s railway supply lines 24,000 men, including Gen. Stephen from the north and east. The only D. Lee’s Corps, on a 15-mile march to routes for supplies and reinforce- Jonesboro to defend his last remain- ments for Atlanta’s beleaguered ing lifeline. Rebel defenders were the West Point Hardee’s exhausted men reached and Macon railroads, the latter pass- Jonesboro in the afternoon of ing through the heart of Jonesboro. August 31 and found Howard’s 315 If the lines were captured, Atlanta’s troops dug in and waiting for them. fate would be sealed. The Confederates hurled themselves On August 25, 1864, after weeks several times against the Federal of murderous shelling of Atlanta, position but were never able to dis- the artillery abruptly ceased. At lodge them. Then, at dusk, the Fed- first, Confederate commander Gen. erals counterattacked and drove the John B. Hood thought the Federals Rebels from the field with heavy had exhausted their supplies and losses. While Howard’s men were AROUND ATLANTA fighting, Gen. John Schofield’s 2. Two Days of Battle at Jones- troops, located a few miles north at boro—at the entrance to the Confed- Rough and Ready, were destroying erate Cemetery the last rail connection with Atlanta. 3. Warren House—GA 54 at Hood ordered Lee’s men back to Mimosa Dr. Atlanta, leaving Hardee only 5,000 4. Hardee’s Corps at Jonesboro— troops to fend off continued attacks GA 54, east of the Warren House on September 1. Although he had the 5. Battle of Jonesboro, the Sec- troops to do it, Sherman chose not ond Day—GA 54, just north of the to overrun the Confederates’ posi- Warren House tions at Jonesboro, instead allowing 6. Site of the McPeak House— his opponents to slip away south to GA 54, 0.75 mile north of the Warren Lovejoy Station. From there, Har dee House sent Hood a dispatch informing him 7. General S.D. Lee’s Corps— of Jonesboro’s fall. Hood ordered all GA 54, 2 miles north of Jonesboro his ammunition trains destroyed, and 8. Diverted Attack—GA 54 near under cover of darkness, the Confed- U.S. 41 on the west side of Jonesboro erate army abandoned Atlanta. On 9. Hardee’s Detour—U.S. 41, the morning of September 2, 1864, north of Jonesboro at Battle Creek Atlanta’s mayor James Calhoun rode Rd. out the Marietta Rd. under a white 10. Lee’s Corps Withdrawn—U.S. flag. He surrendered the city to Col. 41 at GA 138 John Colburn of Gen. Henry W. 11. The March to the Sea—U.S. 41 Slocum’s 20th Corps, saying, “The at GA 138 fortune of war has placed Atlanta in your hands. . . .” NOTABLE PLACES Many homes and businesses in 1. Jonesboro Railroad Depot Jonesboro were heavily damaged or (1867)—104 N. Main St. at destroyed in the battle, including the W. Mill St. This granite structure depot, the commercial district, and replaced the station destroyed by the courthouse, but a number were Union troops in 1864. It is now a wel- spared and remain, offering visitors come center with information on 316 the chance to gain a feel for the land sights and activities throughout and spirit that inspired Gone With Clayton County. It also houses the the Wind. Information: 770-478-4800; Road to Tara Museum, featuring www.visitscarlett.com exhibits on the Academy Award-winning film adaptation of Margaret HISTORICAL MARKERS Mitchell’s Pulitzer Prize-winning 1. Clayton County—on the novel. Hours: 8:30 AM–5:30 PM, grounds of the 1869 court- Mon.–Fri.; 10 AM–4 PM, Sat. It is house also the center of activities during Historic Jonesboro

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¢ GPS: N 33. 31. 282 N W 84. 21. 257 AROUND ATLANTA the town’s annual Fall Festival. Romanesque Classical-style building. Information: 770-478-4800; www. 7. Mundy-Crowell-Burrell House visitscartlett.com (1900s)—172 Church St. This simple 2. Jonesboro Fire Station frame home is typical of a design Museum (1950s)—103 Mill St. This popular at the turn of the 20th old firehouse has been converted to century. a special events facility and small 8. Methodist Superannuate museum housing antique fire trucks House (1900s)—176 Church St. Promi- and equipment. nent Jonesboro citizen Claud Hutche- 3. Downtown Commercial Dis- son had this house built as a resi - trict (1867–1920)—Mill St. to Church dence for retired Methodist ministers. St. These storefronts, including the The home was eventually sold by the Davis Block (c. 1868), remain nearly church and is now privately owned. as they were a century ago. The A noteworthy feature is the wooden murals on the southern end of the scrollwork on the front porch. buildings facing Church St. were 9. Ashley Oaks (1879)—144 Col- commissioned by the Arts Clayton lege St. Built by prominent citizen Gallery, 136 S. Main St., to capture Leander Hutcheson, this stately two- Jonesboro’s past. story home was constructed of 4. Clayton Daily News building handmade bricks. Of particular (c. 1901)—138 Church St. The offices interest is the wraparound porch of the local newspaper were origi- and balcony. The home is open for nally built as a cotton-bagging tours. Information: 770-478-8986 NR house, where bales of cotton were 10. Looney-Hanes-Smith House packaged for shipping. (1880)—139 College St. This frame 5. Gayden-Sims-Webb House house, with a steeply pitched roof (1850s)—158 Church St. Built by Dr. characteristic of the Gothic Revival Francis Gayden, this was the only style, was built by George Looney brick structure in Jonesboro prior to while he served as president of Mid- the Civil War. Gayden was an officer dle Georgia College. The home was in the Confederate cavalry under extensively remodeled by the Hanes Gen. Joseph Wheeler. The house has family in the 1920s. 318 been remodeled extensively over the 11. Arnold-Lyle-Oakes House years and is owned by the nearby (1869)—192 Cloud St. This small frame Baptist church. house was built by Francis M. Arnold 6. Jonesboro Baptist Church for his wife Margaret on land inher- (1922)—147 Church St. This is the ited from her father, Dr. Thomas third church on this site. The first Burnside. The house has been was built in 1859 and destroyed in an expanded by subsequent owners. 1892 storm; the second burned in 12. Rivers-Turner House (1905)— 1922 and was replaced by the present 217 S. Main St. Built by businessman Historic Jonesboro Alonzo B. Rivers, the built for John Crock- home is noted for its ett. It is now a bank. wraparound porch. 18. Clayton 13. Key-Carnes- County Courthouse Brown House (1898, 1962)— (1850s)—201 S. Main McDonough St. The St. This frame house, current courthouse, with some Greek built in 1962, was Revival–style features, constructed in front was built by business- of the older building. man James Key. The turn-of-the-20th- Except for the front century courthouse portico, which was features ornate brick- added after the Civil work and a clock War, the house has Old county courthouse tower typical of the changed little since Victorian Gothic its construction. style. Margaret Mitchell spent many 14. Burnside-Lyle House (1870)— hours in the older courthouse build- 166 S. Main St. Julia Burnside, widow ing researching records for her book, of Dr. Thomas Burnside, had this Gone With the Wind. NR home built for her family after their 19. Post–Civil War Courthouse house was burned by Federal troops (1869)—N. McDonough St. This in 1864. structure replaced the original court- 15. Hynds-Blalock-Henry House house, which was destroyed by (1880s)—162 S. Main St. This frame Union troops during the Battle of house was built by Will M. Hynds, Jonesboro. Within a few years, the owner of a cotton warehouse. Sev- county outgrew this facility and eral additions have been made to the constructed the larger courthouse second floor. down the street. The old courthouse 16. Waldrop-Brown-Edwards is now a Masonic lodge. House (1860s)—160 S. Main St. This 20. Clayton County History house was built by J. L. H. Waldrop. Museum (1869)—125 King St., behind Half of this house suffered extensive the 1869 courthouse. Constructed at 319 damage during the Battle of Jones- the same time as the post–Civil War boro in 1864. The structure was courthouse, the building served for repaired after the war, and the side many years as the county jail. It with wider wooden boards is the became a private home after con- newer portion. struction of the new courthouse in 17. Crockett-Blalock House 1898. It has been restored and now is (1879)—154 S. Main St. This modest the Clayton County History Center frame house with dual gables was and Museum. Open by appoint- AROUND ATLANTA ment. Information: 770-473-0197 25. Gen. Patrick R. Cleburne 21. Carnes-Lawrence-Hansard Memorial Confederate Cemetery House (1850s)—154 N. McDonough (1872)—N. McDonough St. at John- St. This frame house with Gothic son St. The Ladies Memorial Associ- porch trim was built by Stephen ation consecrated this burial ground Carnes, a carriage maker. Carnes for the remains of Confederate sol- also manufactured caskets and was diers who fell in the fighting around hired by the State of Georgia after Jonesboro. A handsome memorial the Civil War to reinter Confederate arch distinguishes the entrance. soldiers buried around Jonesboro at Since 1934, the grounds have been the new Confederate cemetery. maintained by the Jonesboro Chap- 22. Pope Dickson and Son Funeral ter of the United Daughters of the Home Museum (1850s)—168 N. Confederacy. Cleburne was a com- McDonough St. The original portion mander of the Confederate forces in of this building predates the Civil the Battle of Jonesboro. War, but the structure has been 26. Johnson-Blalock House extensively remodeled and modern- (c. 1840, with postwar additions)— ized. Of particular interest is the 19th- 155 N. Main St. Locally known as the century hearse displayed behind the James F. Johnson house, it was built building. Owned by Atlanta morti- for Johnson, a representative in the cian Hyatt M. Patterson, the hearse Georgia legislature before the Civil carried the body of Alexander Ste - War. During the Battle of Jonesboro, phens, Vice Pres. of the Confederacy, Union troops used the house as later governor of Georgia, to its burial a hospital. place in 1883. Also located here is an 27. Warren-Waldrop-Chapman- outdoor playhouse originally located Adamson House (1859)—102 W. Mi - on the grounds of the Fitz gerald plan- mo sa Dr. This house was built for Guy tation. Margaret Mitchell spent many L. Warren, a merchant and railroad hours in this playhouse. Information: agent. The property around the house 770-478-7211; www.popedickson.com was the site of fierce fighting during 23. Manson-Purdy-Segner House the Battle of Jonesboro and the house (1890)—180 N. McDonough St. This was used by the 52nd Illinois regiment 320 comfortable frame house, typical as its headquarters. After the war, the of the period, was built by Judge Warren family did not return to Jones- Zachary Manson. boro, and the house passed through 24. Dollar-Hightower-Swint several hands. Lamar Adamson, sher- House (1850s)—186 N. McDonough iff of Clayton County, purchased this St. The original house predates the house in 1934, and his family owned it Civil War; it has been remodeled sev- for more than 50 years. eral times. 28. Stately Oaks (1839)—100 Car- riage Ln. at Jodeco Rd. This Greek Historic Jonesboro Revival–style house, originally located Clayton County Convention and several miles outside Jonesboro, was Visitor Bureau: 770-478-4800; donated to Historical Jonesboro, www.visitscarlett.com Inc. and moved to this site in 1972. A complete restoration was finished NEARBY ATTRACTIONS in 1984, and several period outbuild- u Clayton College and State Uni- ings have been added since that time. versity—The modern campus has Administered by Historical Jones- open greenspaces for enjoyable walk- boro, the house is open for tours and ing. The University’s Spivey Hall is special events. Hours: 10 AM–4 PM, an internationally renowned concert Mon.–Sat. Information: 770-473-0197; and musical performance facility. www.historicaljonesboro.org Information: 770-961-3683; www. 29. Abner-Camp House (1840s)— clayton.edu Lake Jodeco Rd. about 1 mile south u Lovejoy Plantation/Fitzgerald of Jonesboro. This Plantation Plain– House—on Talmadge Rd. off U.S. 19, style house is typical of farmhouses Lovejoy. This house was built in 1835 of the period. Citizens fleeing the by John Dorsey as a wedding gift to fighting in 1864 were given temporary his daughter Althea and son-in-law refuge here by the Camp family. Thomas S. Crawford. The plantation occupies the site where Confederate SPECIAL FEATURES AND EVENTS Gen. John B. Hood assembled his Annual events in downtown Jones- army after the fall of Atlanta in 1864. boro include: The house was the longtime resi- u Native American Heritage dence of Betty Talmadge, who was Day—April once married to former Georgia Gov- u Jonesboro Independence Day ernor and United States Senator Her- Festival—July 4th man Talmadge. Also on the grounds u Tara Ball at Stately Oaks is the antebellum Philip Fitzgerald Plantation—September house. Fitzgerald was the great- u Fall Festival and Battle grandfather of Margaret Mitchell. Reenactment—October The houses and grounds are occa- u NASCAR Championship at sionally opened to the public. Atlanta Motor Speedway—October u Southlake Mall—at I-75 and 321 u Holiday at Home Festival— GA 54. Large shopping and dining November complex u Olde Fashioned Christmas in Jonesboro—December OTHER WALKS IN THE AREA u Candlelight Tour of Stately #42 Reynolds Nature Preserve Oaks—December Information: Historical Jones- boro/Clayton County: 770-473-0197; AROUND ATLANTA C H A P T E R 4 4

To explore the eastern side of Sweetwater creek, retrace your steps on the Red Trail to the intersecting yellow-blazed Creek State Sweetwater Creek Trail, crossing a closed automobile bridge across the Park creek. Turn right and continue on the trail to follow a loop into the hills above the creek. A return to the visitor center completes a 3.1-mile loop. A hike on the loops across both sides of the river is a trek of about 6.5 miles. Detailed trail maps are available at the visitor center.

TERRAIN The red trail to the ruins LOCATION traces a moderate descent About 18 miles west of downtown. of about 0.25 mile from the parking The hikes begin behind the visitor area to the water’s edge. It then fol- center. lows the old mill road along an GPS: N33.45.224/W84.37.706 undulating path to the mill site. The 0.5-mile walk to the falls is very TRAIL DISTANCE strenuous, requiring the hiker to The red-blazed History Trail negotiate several rock outcroppings, leads to the factory ruins numerous roots, and several steep about 0.6 mile from the parking hills before reaching the falls over- area, and to the falls 0.5 mile look. The blue-blazed return trail fol- 322 beyond. The blue-blazed nature trail lows a graded, less strenuous route meanders through the hills above on its return to the parking area. The the ruins on a 2-mile route back to white-blazed Jack’s Hill Trail winds the parking area. The round-trip is over hillsides and through coves on about 3.2 miles long. its return to the starting point. The For a longer hike, follow the yellow-blazed Sweetwater Creek Trail white-blazed trail through the Jack’s combines a ﬂoodplain walk with a Hill Environmental Education Area. strenuous climb into the hills above This is a 5-mile round-trip. the creek. Sweetwater Creek State Park

Sweetwater Creek from factory ruins

DRIVING DIRECTIONS of textile goods for the Confederacy Travel I-20 west to Thornton during the Civil War. Rd. (exit 44), go south on Thornton On July 2, 1864, while the Confed- Rd. Turn west on Blairs Bridge Rd. erates were withdrawing from Ken- to Mount Vernon Rd. Turn south nesaw Mountain to the north (see and follow Mount Vernon for 1.1 #29), a detachment of Federal cav- miles to the park entrance on alry was dispatched by Gen. George Factory Shoals Rd. Stoneman to Sweetwater Creek with instructions to destroy the mill and Parking send the workers north. No Confed- There is parking at the trailhead by the erate soldiers patrolled the area, so visitor center. Parking fee is required. the factory was captured without resistance and burned. Artillery fire BACKGROUND destroyed the large rock dam across 323 On the banks of Sweetwater Creek, Sweetwater Creek. the ruins of the once-prosperous Although no written accounts New Manchester Manufacturing discuss the fate of the community Company are overgrown with ivy and around the mill, historians believe it weeds; they are all that remain of a also burned—either intentionally or bustling factory community. Con- accidentally—when the mill was structed in 1847, the mill at New razed. The devastation was so com- Manchester produced a wide variety plete that the mill never reopened. AROUND ATLANTA The trail to the factory descends 2. Old Mill Race and Wagon Road through a forest and in several (c. 1840s)—Remains of the original places follows the wagon road that road connecting the mill with the vil- once connected the mill village with lage above may still be seen along the outside world. Beyond the ruins, the trail. the trail follows the banks of pictur- 3. Ruins of the New Manchester esque Sweetwater Creek to the ram- Manufacturing Company Mill bling, rocky falls a short distance to (c. 1840s)—on the southern banks of the east. Sweetwater Creek. These are all that Originally a project of The Geor- remain of the New Manchester Man- gia Conservancy, the park was ufacturing Company Mill, destroyed formed when much of the land was by Union cavalry in July 1864. acquired between 1968 and 1971 with 4. Sweetwater Creek Shoals— the dedicated help of Gov. Lester An overlook above the water offers Maddox. Opened in 1976, Sweetwa- a panoramic view of the water rush- ter Creek State Park draws anglers ing over the shoals and Sweetwater seeking a variety of game fish from Creek Falls. the depths of George H. Sparks Reservoir, picnickers enjoying the SPECIAL FEATURES AND EVENTS various shelters, and history buffs u March for Parks—March exploring the mysteries of the mill. u New Manchester Days The park’s visitor center has received Festival—September international acclaim for its energy u Special events—The park is efficient design. Information: 770-732- operated by the Georgia Depart- 5871; www.gastateparks.com ment of Natural Resources, and special events are held during the year. HISTORICAL MARKERS 1. Mill Information—Adjacent NEARBY ATTRACTIONS to the mill ruins, a marker u Historic Douglasville—Enjoy presents historical informa- shopping and dining along the tion about the textile mill. restored main street of this 19th century railroad town. 324 NOTABLE PLACES u Six Flags Over Georgia theme 1. Visitor Interpretive Center park. Information: 770-739-3400; (2006)—This state-of-the- www.sixflags.com/parks art facility with classrooms and exhibition spaces is one of the only build- OTHER WALKS IN THE AREA ings in the nation to be granted #47 Cochran Mill Nature Leadership in Energy and Environ- Preserve and Park mental (LEED) platinum status by the by the U.S. Green Building Council.

Sweetwater Creek State Park

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GPS: N 33. 45. 224 W 84. 37. 706 AROUND ATLANTA C H A P T E R 4 5

ate descent from the Interpretive Panola Center to a pond and old summer cabins (now used by researchers). Mountain State After passing a river cane restoration area, the trail gradually climbs Conservation up to the face of Panola Mountain. On a clear day, the view from the Park mountain shows Stone Mountain to the north and the Atlanta skyline to the northwest. The trail descends through a boulder field on its return to the pond. The terrain for the Rock Outcrop and Watershed Trails is gently rolling mixed forest with boardwalks in certain areas to protect the fragile envi- LOCATION ronment. A kiosk behind the visitor About 18 miles southeast of Atlanta. center contains brochures describing The walks begin behind the Interpre- the features to be found along each tive Center. of the short trails. GPS: N33.37.529/W84.10.298 The Fitness Trail offers a variety of workout stations along the 1-mile TRAIL DISTANCE loop. The limited-access trail to Pan - ola Mountain is a 3.5–5.0 mile DRIVING DIRECTIONS loop. The two self-guided trails com- Travel I-20 east to Wesley bine for a pleasant 2-mile forest Chapel Rd. (exit 68), then south 326 walk, and the fitness trail offers a about 0.25 mile. Turn left (south- pleasant 1-mile course. east) on GA 155 (Snapfinger Rd.). In addition to the trails in the park, Follow GA 155 about 6 miles south to the 12-mile, paved PATH Foundation’s the park entrance. Panola Mountain-Arabia Mountain Trail links these two destinations. Parking Parking is adjacent to the Interpre- TERRAIN tive Center, and additional space is The limited-access moun- available in the picnic area. A nomi- tain trail follows a moder- nal parking fee is charged. Panola Mountain State Conservation Park

Climbing Panola Mountain with Stone Mountain in the distance

BACKGROUND As part of the ongoing effort to Panola Mountain State Conserva- preserve and study the mountain and tion Park is dedicated to the preser- its environment, strict visitation rules vation of a remarkable, extremely are enforced. The mountain itself fragile environment. Here, on nearly may be visited only on regularly 600 acres of rolling forest and old scheduled hikes led by park natural- farmland, the Department of Natu- ists that include a brief orientation ral Resources allows nature to rule. at the park’s Interpretive Center. The park’s crown, Panola Mountain, Advance reservations, a minimum of is a 100-acre granite outcrop defined 5 participants, and a small fee are by geologists as a monadnock. required. Groups may arrange guided Pan ola Mountain is a significant fea- walks by contacting the park office. ture of the Piedmont Plateau. This In addition to the restricted peak sits quietly in the shadow of access area, 3 self-guided walks 327 its larger and more commercially begin adjacent to the center. The exploited neighboring monadnock, Rock Outcrop Trail (0.75 mile) and Stone Mountain. Consequently, as the Watershed Trail (1.25 miles) both one brochure aptly describes it, provide opportunities to explore the Panola is a “million-year-old moun- unique environment around Panola tain, in the process of evolution, Mountain, while the 1-mile fitness unhindered by anyone.” Panola trail offers exercise stations. Mountain is a Registered National Visitors familiar with Stone Landmark. Mountain who wish to learn more AROUND ATLANTA about the evolutionary processes sented throughout the year. Annual that create monadnocks, or to imag- events include spring and fall wild- ine what that mountain would be flower walks, bird-watching, and like had tourists and sculptors never environmental education programs. touched it, should visit Panola There are picnic tables adjacent to Mountain. the parking area.

NOTABLE PLACES NEARBY ATTRACTIONS 1. Interpretive Center—This u Trappist Monastery of the natural wood and stone Holy Ghost—Conyers. Information: building houses exhibitions and liter- 770-483-8705; www.trappist.net ature on the Panola Mountain environment. Guide booklets describing OTHER WALKS IN THE AREA features of each trail are sold at the #46 Davidson-Arabia Mountain center. Interpretive Center exhibi- Nature Preserve tions detail the wildlife, plant life, and geology of the area. During the hours the center is open, park staff are available to provide information. Hours: 9 AM–5 PM, Tues.–Fri.; 12 PM –5 PM, Sat. and Sun. The park is open from 7 AM until dark, daily. Information: 770-389-7801; www. gastateparks.org 2. Exhibit Workshop and Preser- vation Laboratory (not open to the public)—Park staff members construct exhibitions in these facilities. Geological research is conducted by staff and by visiting scientists. 3. Old Lake Cabins (1954) (not open to the public)—These cabins 328 were built by the Yarborough family, former owners of this property. Used for summer retreats, the cabins now provide housing for staff and visiting researchers.

SPECIAL FEATURES AND EVENTS A variety of natural history and cultural education programs are pre- Panola Mountain State Conservation Park

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GPS: N 33. 37. 529 W 84. 10. 298 AROUND ATLANTA C H A P T E R 4 6

of rock and Piedmont forest. From Davidson– the nature center, the Forest Trail winds through woodlands along the Arabia north side of the mountain before descending toward Arabia Lake, Mountain where it connects with the Fern Trail, which meanders along a lush stream Nature to an elevated boardwalk. Follow the boardwalk to the left and climb past Preserve the ruins of the old quarry office. A short distance ahead, an unmarked trail to the right follows the edge of a quarry area to a small parking area on North Goddard Rd. Turn left, cross Klondike Rd. and follow it south to a graveled parking area and LOCATION access to the Bradley Peak and Ara- About 18 miles southeast of down- bia Mountain Trails. town, the nature preserve is located From the Bradley Peak Trail, at 3787 Klondike Rd. in Lithonia. The marked by stone cairns, the trail hike begins behind the nature center ascends over the 940-foot-high peak on Klondike Rd. (the highest point in the park) before GPS: N33.40.344/W84.06.972 descending to the edge of a wooded area, where it intersects with the TRAIL DISTANCE unmarked Arabia Peak Trail. Cross Walking the connecting loop Klondike Rd, and follow the paved trails within the park is a hike trail south to the old quarry office. 330 of about 5.8 miles. Sections of the Turn right past Frog Pond and the trails are marked by stacked-stone old quarry structures on a return to cairns. (Volunteers continue to add the nature center. markers to un-blazed portions of the Portions of the preserve’s trails trail system.) are part of the PATH Foundation’s 12-mile Arabia Mountain–Panola TERRAIN Mountain Trail. A paved hiking and The preserve’s landscape is biking pathway connects the two a mix of exposed outcrops parks and other sites around Lithonia. Davidson-Arabia Mountain Nature Preserve DRIVING DIRECTIONS Arabia Mountain Travel east on was formed during the I-20 to Evans Mill Rd. Precambrian and (exit 74), turn south for Devonian geologic 0.1 miles to Woodrow periods when molten Dr. Continue on Woo - rocks along the east- d row Dr. as it bends ern portion of what east to an intersection would become the with Klondike Rd. Turn North American con- right (south) and travel tinent were pushed up about 1 mile to the pre- from far below the serve entrance. Earth’s surface, creating the Appalachian Parking Mountains. Over Parking is available at many millennia, the Stone cairns mark trail the nature center and on Bradley Peak erosive forces of wind at the graveled area and water slowly south of the Bradley wore away the softer Peak Trail, both located on Klon - soils of the surrounding landscape, dike Rd. exposing the hardened rock. The stone of Arabia Mountain, called PUBLIC TRANSPORTATION Lithonia Gneiss, is a distinctive form MARTA buses serving Lithonia of metamorphic rock with swirling (#86 Fairington Rd./Lithonia) patterns of light and dark material connect with the East Lake rail sta- containing quartz, feldspar, tion and the Evans Mill Rd. Park and graphite, mica, and other minerals. Ride Lot about 2 miles from the Gneiss rock is found throughout the park. MARTA: 404-848-5000; eastern United States from New www.itsmarta.com England to the Piedmont Plateau. During the earliest periods of BACKGROUND human history in North America, Arabia Mountain (the origins of its beginning 12–20,000 years ago, name have been obscured by his- Paleo-Indians migrated through this 331 tory) is a 400-million-year-old rock area. They quarried spear points and outcrop called a monadnock, rising soapstone, which they used for prim- gently above the surrounding Pied- itive tools, but left little evidence of mont forest. Arabia is the oldest of their passing. Historians speculate three distinct mountains east of the more recent Native Americans, Atlanta; it is 100 million years older the Creek and Cherokee who lived in than nearby Panola Mountain (see this area from around 1400 C.E. until #46) and Stone Mountain (see #41). the mid-1800s, may have visited the AROUND ATLANTA area around Arabia Mountain, but In 1973, Davidson-Arabia Moun- they did not leave traces of any per- tain Nature Preserve was established manent settlements. by DeKalb County to preserve and With the removal of the Creek protect the unique geology and flora and Cherokee from Georgia’s interior of the ancient rock outcrop. Despite in the 1830s, settlers quickly moved its close proximity to Stone Moun- into the area to establish farms, tain, Georgia’s most visited tourist mills, tanneries, and other business- attraction, and Panola Mountain, es. While the immense size of Stone set aside as a state conservation Mountain made it a local tourist at- park in 1969, Arabia Mountain traction as early as the 1840s, Panola remained a relatively obscure park, and Arabia Mountains were largely little known to any except local hik- ignored, their rocky soil being diffi- ers and geology buffs. cult to tame for agriculture. Howev- Through the years, more land er, as Atlanta grew and the need for around the mountain was acquired. building stone increased, all three In 1996, the nature center was built, mountains became sites for quarry offering for the first time a site for and stone-carving operations. By the educational programs and exhibitions late 1800s, several companies were about the mountain. In 1999, a small carving tons of high quality granite group of committed individuals from these mountains. This building established the Arabia Mountain stone was used in several notable Alliance, dedicated to seeking desig- public buildings, including the U. S. nation of the mountain as a National Military Academy at West Point, the Heritage Area. With the help of Naval Academy at Annapolis, and in elected government officials, the her- Washington, D.C. itage area study was completed in In the first quarter of the 20th 2001, and the proposal was submitted century, the Arabia Mountain Stone to the U.S. Congress a short time Crushing Company was quarrying later. In 2002, Congress endorsed the large areas of the mountain and proposal establishing the Arabia grinding it to gravel for use in local Mountain National Heritage Pre- building projects. In the 1930s, the serve. Today, visitors from around the 332 Davidson family acquired the quarry nation come to explore this geologi- operations, establishing the David- cal wonder, especially in spring to see son-Arabia Mountain Granite Com- thousands of blooming wildflowers, pany, which operated until the 1970s. most notably the rare, red-flowered Pay a visit to nearby Lithonia today Diamorpha plant that grows around and you will see many buildings con- the mountain’s many shallow ponds. structed from Davidson-Arabia Plans are under consideration to Mountain granite. expand park boundaries and enlarge Davidson-Arabia Mountain Nature Preserve

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GPS: N 33. 40. 344 W 84. 06. 972 AROUND ATLANTA the nature center to include an envi- tain for nearly three-quarters of a ronmental education center. Most century. recently, with support from the 5. Mountain Field Station (1996)— PATH Foundation, the paved Arabia Klondike Rd. south of Goddard Rd. Mountain–Panola Mountain Trail This small building provided work- was constructed to link the two space for geologists, botanists, parks with nearby Stonecrest Mall meteorologists, volunteers, and and the city of Lithonia. PATH others interested in studying the Foundation information: 404-875- mountain’s geology and botanical 7284; www.pathfoundation.org Hours: diversity. Restrooms are adjacent David son-Arabia Mountain Nature to the building. Preserve is open daily from dawn 6. Bradley Peak—A steep ascent to dusk. leads to the 954-foot summit of Bradley Mountain, the park’s highest NOTABLE PLACES point. The area provides a 360º 1. Nature Center (1996)— panoramic view of the surrounding 3787 Klondike Rd. This landscape. small, wood-framed building houses 7. Arabia Mountain Peak—The preserve ofﬁces, exhibit areas, rest- park’s namesake peak, 940 feet rooms, and space for educational above sea level, is a relatively level programs. A kiosk outside the build- rock outcrop that sits above the ing provides park information and remains of the quarry. maps. Hours: 9 AM–12:30 PM, 1 PM– 4:30 PM, Mon.–Fri.; Saturdays by SPECIAL FEATURES AND EVENTS appointment. Information: 770-484- The Arabia Mountain Alliance and 3060; www.arabiaalliance.org other groups sponsor guided trips 2. Arabia Lake (c. 1910s)—This through the park, educational large pond was created to provide programs for school groups, educa- the large quantities of water needed tional presentations, and other for quarry operations. activities throughout the year. 3. Old Quarry Company Ruins Information: 770-484-3060; (c. 1920s)—Weathered walls are all www.arabiaalliance.org 334 that remain of the ofﬁce, storage, and weigh station buildings of the OTHER WALKS IN THE AREA Davidson-Arabia Mountain Granite #41 Stone Mountain Memorial Company and its predecessor Park organizations. #45 Panola Mountain State 4. Quarry Sites (1910s–70s)— Conservation Park Multiple sites in the preserve reveal evidence of the extensive rock quarrying work undertaken on the moun- AROUND ATLANTA C H A P T E R 4 7

pond and along the banks of Bear Cochran Creek. The route crosses several rock outcrops and passes the ruins of the Mill Nature second mill and dam before intersect - ing with a trail that continues across Preserve the creek to Cochran Mill Park. This un-blazed trail winds along and Park the banks of the creek to a bridge across old Cochran Mill Rd. (the dirt path is closed to cars). Across the creek, a gold-blazed path follows the road to the right toward an open meadow and a waterfall on Little Bear Creek. At the base of the falls are the ruins of Cheadle Cochran’s original mill. An old iron bridge LOCATION spans the creek and a spur path Cochran Mill Nature Preserve is leads a short distance to Cochran located on Cochran Mill Rd., west of Mill Rd. the city of Palmetto, about 25 miles The loop trail climbs steeply from downtown. The hike begins at above the creek before descending the nature center. again and following Little Bear GPS: N33.34.854/W84.42.474 Creek. At a marked trail junction, a well maintained but un-blazed trail TRAIL DISTANCE veers to the right. This path mean- The white-blazed loop trail is ders through the forest, reaching about 1.5 miles. The longer the site of the dam on Bear Creek route connecting with trails in before turning back toward the 335 Cochran Mill Park adds 3.5 miles, for main loop. The trail has excellent a combined trek of about 5.2 miles. vantage points for observing birds and small animals. TERRAIN Notes of caution: The rock outcrops From the nature center may be quite slippery when wet or icy, building, the white-blazed and the portions of the trail along the trail climbs over a ridge and descends banks of Bear Creek are prone to flood- to the floodplain beside a beaver ing after periods of heavy rain. AROUND ATLANTA DRIVING DIRECTIONS In 1870, Cheadle’s older son Berry Travel south on I-85 past constructed a second mill about a Hartsfield International Airport to half-mile from the original, on the South Fulton Pkwy. (exit 69), then banks of Bear Creek. In 1903, his son, about 13 miles south until the park- Berry Cochran, Jr., converted his way ends at Rivertown Rd. Turn right father’s mill to hydroelectric power. (west) and travel about 2 miles to the He began providing electricity to the intersection with Cochran Mill Rd., city of Palmetto in 1909. then turn left (south). The Nature The Cochran family eventually Preserve entrance will be on the left. sold the property, and at one time it The main entrance to Fulton County’s belonged to Hiram Evans, Imperial Cochran Mill Park is about a mile far- Wizard of the Ku Klux Klan (see #16). ther south on Cochran Mill Rd. Evans had an electrified fence erected along the border of the Parking property so that Klan activities could There is a parking area at the nature be carried out in secret. The old center and another in Cochran Mill abandoned mills survived the KKK Park across the road from the water- only to be destroyed by vandals in fall. Note: The nature center closes at 1967 (original mill) and 1972 (second 3 PM and the gate will be locked. mill), prior to creation of the park. Today, the fieldstone dam, stone BACKGROUND foundations, and a few rusting arti- For centuries, the heavily wooded facts are all that remain of the once banks of Bear and Little Bear Creeks prosperous Cochran Mills. In the were the hunting and fishing grounds late 1970s, the old Cochran property of Creek Indians. In the mid-1820s, was acquired by Fulton County for mounting pressure for settlement of use as a park and recreation area. Georgia’s interior forced the Indians Today, Cochran Mill Park contains to cede much of their ancestral lands over 800 acres and includes hiking to the state of Georgia. trails, equestrian paths, picnic areas, In 1826, Cheadle Cochran received and primitive camping areas. the tract of land around the creeks The private, nonprofit Cochran 336 as a reward for his service in the War Mill Nature Center and Preserve was of 1812. He moved here with his fam- established in 1988 and occupies 50 ily, built a farm and gristmill on Little heavily wooded acres along the Bear Creek, and became a leading park’s northern border. The Center citizen and state senator. At the time features ponds, an animal rehabilita- of his death in 1854, he owned over tion facility, a composting demon- 700 acres of land and 40 slaves. His stration site, a ropes course, and a younger son Owen continued opera- volunteer-built log visitor center with tion of the mill for many more years. exhibit and classroom space. The Cochran Mill Nature Preserve and Park

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GPS: N 33. 34. 854 SOUTH FULTON PKWY W 84. 42. 474 AROUND ATLANTA

Cochran Mill dam

center sponsors a variety of environ- granite outcrops along the creek mental education programs, camps, bank. Nearby are stone foundations and workshops throughout the and rusting artifacts from Berry year for both children and adults. Cochran’s mill constructed in 1870. Information: 770-306-0914; www. 4. Mill Dam (1870s)—This ter- cochranmillnaturecenter.org. Cochran raced fieldstone dam once held back Mill Park is open 6 AM–dark, daily. Bear Creek to power first the grist Park information: 404-730-6200 mill and later the hydroelectric plant of the mill. The dam was vandalized NOTABLE PLACES a few years ago and water no longer 1. Cochran Mill Nature flows over the terraces. Center (1993)—The 3,000- 5. Waterfall and Old Mill Ruins— square-foot building houses admin- Little Bear Creek’s rushing waters istrative offices, classrooms, exhibit provided the power for Cheadle spaces, and a small gift shop. The Cochran’s original 1830s mill. Today, animal rehabilitation facility, com- the scenic waterfall is the focal point posting site, and a pond are nearby. of a park picnic area. The Nature Center is open 9 AM–3 PM, Mon.–Fri.; and 9 AM–5 PM, Sat. SPECIAL FEATURES AND EVENTS 338 (April–Oct.) Note: The gate closes at 3 u Nature Camps—Summer PM so make arrangements to park else- u Halloween Hayride—October where if you will be hiking past this time. NEARBY ATTRACTIONS 2. Beaver Pond—This flooded u Georgia Renaissance Festival— wetland area is a haven for birds and April to June. Information: 770-964- small animals. 8575; www.garenfest.com 3. Large Rock Outcrop and Mill Ruins—The path crosses exposed OTHER WALKS IN THE AREA #44 Sweetwater Creek State Park

CHATTA RIVER

Old Jones Bridge above fog

Trail along river A HOOCHEE R NATIONAL RECREATION AREA

Side trail along Sope Creek

Boardwalk to Gunby Trail from Fitness Trail CHATTAHOOCHEE RIVER NRA INTRODUCTION

Because the river is not navigable Walks on the for large boats above Columbus, Ga., the northern part of the water- Wild Side way did not see the large-scale industrial and commercial development common along rivers that flow through urban areas. Until the 1970s, much of the Chattahoo - chee’s course through metropolitan Atlanta remained natural and unspoiled. Then, as the northern suburbs grew, residential development along the waterfront became popular, and more people sought homes with river views. The Chattahoochee River National Development prompted coali- Recreation Area is composed of sev- tions of concerned citizen groups— eral individual units of land lying such as Friends of the River, the along the Chattahoochee River’s Sierra Club, The Georgia Conser- shoreline and stretch ing northward vancy, and the Audubon Society— from U.S. 41 (Cobb Pkwy.) to Buford to seek state and federal protection Dam on Lake Lanier. for the remaining wild sections of Chattahoochee is a Cherokee the river. Their efforts to save natural name meaning “River of the Painted areas and historical sites came to Rocks.” For centuries, area Native fruition in 1978 with the creation of Americans paddled and fished its the Chattahoochee River National waters as they traveled among their Recreation Area as part of the 342 villages. In the 18th and 19th cen- National Park System. Since that turies, settlers drew their livelihoods time, additional parcels of land have from the river: farmers planted crops been acquired as funds were avail- along its fertile floodplains, millers able, while private development of dammed tributaries like Vickery and unreserved areas continues. Sope Creeks to generate mechanical Today, units of the park, each power, and distillers drew off its with its own character and history, clean, pure water to make “white line the river north of Atlanta. lightning,” a spirituous brew. Whether visitors come to fish along Introduction

PEACHTREE PKWY ¢ N JONES NWELL RD BRIDGE ROSWELL HOLCO MB BAR UNIT BRIDGE RD 56

MEDLOCK VICKERY ISLAND BRIDGE CREEK FORD 57 UNIT D R UNIT

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US 41 I-75 PALISADES WEST 48 UNIT CHATTAHOOCHEE RIVER NATIONAL RECREATION AREA the river’s banks or to float down physical limitations. Visitors should the gentle rapids, to jog the fitness review the distance and terrain descrip- trail or to explore old mill ruins, tions for each trail when planning the Chattahoochee River National outings, and contact park staff for addi- Recreation Area offers an opportu- tional advice. nity to experience wilderness close to A valid Georgia fishing license the heart of a city. The Geosphere with trout stamp is required for any- Environmental Education Training one planning to fish in the river, Center at the park’s Jones Bridge the streams, or the ponds of the Unit offers classes to teachers and National Recreation Area. Annual scout leaders and is occasionally licenses are available for Georgia res- open to the public. idents, and one-day, seven-day, and More than 70 miles of trails criss- seasonal licenses are available to cross the sections of the Recreation nonresidents for a nominal fee. All Area. The next 10 walks showcase annual and seasonal licenses expire different units and offer a sampling each year on March 31. Licenses may of the natural beauty and human be purchased where fishing and history of the river. Trails are open hunting equipment is sold. Georgia daily from dawn to dusk. A parking Game and Fish Commission Informa- fee of $3 per day is charged (annual tion: 1-888-748-6887 www.georgiaw- passes cost $25). Additions to the ildlife.com trail system are under continual eval- uation and development. Park staff can help visitors explore areas not profiled here, and Park Service staff and volunteers may offer guided walks of selected trails at various times throughout the year. Informa- tion about the park, guided walks, and other upcoming activities may be obtained by contacting the park headquarters at Chattahoochee 344 River National Recreation Area, 1978 Island Ford Pkwy., Dunwoody, GA 30350. Hours: 8 AM–4:30 PM, Mon.–Fri. Information: 678-538-1200; www.nps.gov/chat Note of caution: Some park trails offer challenging, sometimes strenuous walks that may be beyond the capabilities of small children and hikers with CHATTAHOOCHEE RIVER NRA C H A P T E R 4 8

lows a level path along the river CRNRA— ﬂoodplain before crossing Rotten- wood Creek. On the north bank, you Palisades may turn right to follow the river for about 0.6 mile before ascent into the West Unit foothills. Following the old road leads to a side trail that descends steeply to old boat-launch areas and Devil’s Racecourse Shoals. You may return to Rottenwood Creek by retracing your steps and following the old road down moderate slopes. Exercise caution when hiking around the cliffs as the area is steep and the rocks may be slippery.

LOCATION DRIVING DIRECTIONS About 9 miles northwest of down- Travel I-75 to Mount Paran town. The Palisades West Unit of Rd. (exit 256), to U.S. 41, then north the Chattahoochee River National on U.S. 41 (Cobb Pkwy.) for about Recreation Area begins at Paces 1 mile. The park entrance is on the left. Mill. The hike begins at the recreation field north of the parking area. Parking GPS: N33.52.244/W84.27.187 A large parking area adjoins the recreation field and comfort station. TRAIL DISTANCE A daily fee is charged and annual From the parking area to the passes are available. northern boundary and back 345 is about 6.1 miles. BACKGROUND In the shadow of a bustling and noisy TERRAIN traffic corridor, near the site where Hiking terrain in the 302- pioneer settler Hardy Pace built his acre Palisades West Unit is a mill and ferry in 1839, the Palisades mix of level floodplain paths and West trails retreat into a wilderness steep ascents to the wooded ridges. once common along the Chatta- From the parking area, the trail fol- hoochee River. Remarkably, as you CHATTAHOOCHEE RIVER NATIONAL RECREATION AREA hike into the wooded NOTABLE PLACES hills, the noise of traf- 1. Comfort fic along the nearby station and interstate highway recreation field—adja- fades away, replaced cent to parking area. by the sounds of rush- Restrooms (closed in ing water and song- winter); picnic area birds. Here, sheer rock and recreation field. outcrops provide vis- 2. Rocky cliffs— tas of the river and These outcrops pro- are ideal places to vide a panoramic vista watch rafters. Fishing of the river. is also popular along 3. Devil’s Race- this stretch of the course Shoals—Rock river, as fly-casters outcrops in the river Along gravel access trail wade the shallows create fast flowing, and boaters explore shallow water. The the river channels. name may have origi- Just west is Vinings Mountain. nated with 19th century boatmen Atop its summit, Hardy Pace estab- who found the shoals difficult to lished the small settlement of Vinings navigate. The shoals are popular and later operated a tavern there. with kayakers and canoeists. From his mountaintop home, he gazed over his vast holdings, nearly SPECIAL FEATURES AND EVENTS 20,000 acres stretching from the u Guided walks conducted by Chattahoochee River through much park staff are held on various week- of present-day Buckhead. Pace lived ends throughout the year. to see Gen. William T. Sherman’s invading Federal troops swarm over NEARBY ATTRACTIONS his mountain in July 1864. The Feder- u Cumberland Mall/Galleria— als caught their first glimpse of the shopping, dining, entertainment church steeples and buildings of area 346 Atlanta from Vinings Mountain. u Vinings—shopping and dining area HISTORICAL MARKERS There are no markers on the OTHER WALKS IN THE AREA trail, but one is nearby: #27 Silver Comet Trail: Mavell 1. The 4th Corps Posted Road to Floyd Road Along The River—U.S. 41 on the #49 CRNRA—Palisades East Unit north side of the Chattahoochee #50 CRNRA—Cochran Shoals & River. Powers Island Units CRNRA—Palisades West Unit

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ascends away from the river along CRNRA— several switchbacks to the ridgetop, where an overlook platform offers a Palisades spectacular view of swift-moving Devil’s Racecourse Shoals. (The East Unit name may have been coined by 19th- century boatmen who struggled to paddle their barges through the rapids.) Commercial areas along I- 285 are clearly visible in the distance. As a side trip, a hiker may choose a descent along the banks of a small stream and down an old road to the site of a decaying, long-abandoned riverside cabin. A short path in either direction from the old cabin leads to LOCATION large cliffs and rock outcrops that About 9.5 miles north of downtown. reveal the ancient geology of the river The hike begins at the parking area and its surrounding hills. off Indian Trail Rd. GPS: N33.53.051/W84.26.196 DRIVING DIRECTIONS Travel I-75 to Mount Paran TRAIL DISTANCE Rd. (exit 256), east to Harris Tr., left This unit offers 5 miles of to Northside Dr., then left on North- trails. The highlighted loop side Dr. about 1 mile to Indian Tr. trail from the parking area is about Turn left and follow Indian Tr. past 3.3 miles long. A round trip down to the ranger’s residence to the parking 348 the cabin ruins on the banks of the area. Or travel I-285 to New North- river adds approximately 1.5 miles. side Dr. (exit 22), then follow North- side Dr. south about 1.5 miles to TERRAIN Indian Tr. The first half-mile follows a moderate, sometimes steep Parking descent to the river’s edge. The trail A graveled parking area lies on park then meanders along the riverbank property at the end of Indian Tr., for another half mile. The path then and a small parking area is available CRNRA—Palisades East Unit on Whitewater Creek Rd. A daily fee ridgetops to the river’s edge, the is charged and annual passes are trails provide an opportunity to available. observe the different zones of the southern Appalachian forest. Differ- BACKGROUND ent kinds of wildlife adapt to each of The Palisades East Unit of the Chat- these zones; pay close attention to tahoochee River National Recreation the environmental details around Area is a land of contrasts, offering a you (such as plants and animal glimpse of the diverse geography and tracks), as they may reveal clues to geology of the Chattahoochee River identifying each zone as you pass valley. The Unit’s trails follow upland through it. Black oaks and hickory ridges that provide nearly open vistas trees crown the heights, while sweet- of the river, and descend, sometimes gum, willows, alders, and a few steeply, to creek valleys and flood- stands of river cane hug the shore. plains. Though close to Atlanta’s city Creek beds and moist areas hold an limits, the park offers views of abundance of ferns and marsh almost unspoiled wilderness. Along grasses. Along the water, telltale the ridges and riverbanks, small ani- signs of beavers or muskrats, rac- mals play hide-and-seek with red- coon tracks, or turtles sunning on tailed hawks soaring above, while rocks or logs are common. Kingfish- rafters and kayakers play in the ers, ducks, and swallows dominate swiftly flowing waters of Devil’s the sky, while chickadees and titmice Racecourse Shoals. dwell beneath the forest canopy. In winter, leafless trees open up Scarlet tanagers, vireos, and hawks vistas from the hilltops, allowing the enrich a varied avian population. eye to follow the Chattahoochee The name of the entrance road River’s course for long distances in suggests these paths may once have each direction. Fall and spring entice been used by Native Americans trav- birdwatchers, binoculars and eling between villages or moving notepads in hand, to search for local among fishing grounds. Rock over- or migrant species they can add to hangs may have served as shelters— their life lists. The seasonal changes one of the park’s largest is located paint a canvas of bright colors, from 0.5 mile upriver from Long Island 349 the gold of October’s oak leaves to Creek. the yellow of March’s daffodils. Summer’s visitors seek the cool HISTORICAL MARKERS shade of the forest as rafters paddle There are no markers on this the river’s currents. Anglers cast their trail, but there are two lines along the riverbanks year nearby: round. 1. Howard’s 4th A. C. Line—Mt. While descending from the Vernon Hwy. at Northside Dr. CHATTAHOOCHEE RIVER NATIONAL RECREATION AREA

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2. 4th And 23rd A. C. Advance— NEARBY ATTRACTIONS Mt. Vernon Hwy. at Old Powers u Powers Ferry Landing— Ferry Rd. shopping and dining area

NOTABLE PLACES OTHER WALKS IN THE AREA 1. Large rock outcrop— #48 CRNRA—Palisades West Long-vanished natives may Unit have sought shelter here. #50 CRNRA—Cochran Shoals & 2. Overlook platform—This Powers Island Units wooden platform constructed along the hillside offers a spectacular view of the river. 3. Cabin ruins (c. 1900s)—All that remains is the foundation of a cabin 350 abandoned long ago. SPECIAL FEATURES AND EVENTS u Guided walks are occasionally offered by the Park Service. CRNRA—Palisades East Unit

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a marsh area, climbs into the sur- CRNRA— rounding hills, then returns to the ﬁtness trail. The Powers Island Cochran Shoals Flood plain Trail is about 2 miles. For an extended walk, the 1.5-mile- & Powers long Scribner Trail connects with the Fox Creek Trail in the park’s Island Units adjacent Sope Creek Unit, providing access to that area’s trail network.

TERRAIN The Cochran Shoals Fitness Trail is a wide, level, graded path that is suitable for walking, jogging, and bicycling. The Gunby Creek Loop Trail follows a board- LOCATION walk through a marsh area teeming About 14 miles from downtown. The with birds, and ascends a moder- Powers Island parking area is located ately steep ridge. It crosses a power on the eastern side of the river, and line cut and reenters the woods in a Cochran Shoals is on the western steep descent to a creek bottom. Fol- side. The Cochran Shoals Unit hike lowing an old farm road, the trail begins north of the parking area. ascends again, bending northward GPS: N34.14.794/W84.26.737 and skirting the edge of an office development as it descends a final The Powers Island walk begins by time to the Cochran Shoals Fitness the area’s parking lot. Trail. The Scribner Trail ascends 352 GPS: N33.54.242/W84.26.275 steeply to a moderate grade as it connects with the trail system of the TRAIL DISTANCE Sope Creek Unit. The Fitness and The marked Cochran Shoals Scribner Trails are graded for use by Fitness Trail is 3.1 miles and all-terrain bicyclists seeking access to contains several exercise stations. the nearby Sope Creek Unit. The Gunby Creek Loop Trail, meas- The Powers Island Floodplain uring about 2 miles, begins at a Trail traces a loop along the north- boardwalk that meanders through ern edge of the river. From the park- CRNRA—Cochran Shoals & Powers Island Units ing area, it follows parking for Cochran an old farm road Shoals is found off for about 0.5 mile Columns Dr. A daily before ending at fee is charged and the scattered ruins annual passes are of the old Puckett available. cabin. About midway, a short BACKGROUND unmarked trail These two units of leaves the main trail the Chattahoochee and meanders for River National a mile-long loop Recreation Area are through a steep popular for exercise ravine and along and recreation. the surrounding Beginning at Coch - hillsides. In spring, ran Shoals, a fitness this path bursts trail—complete with into bloom with marked stations Powers Island bridge wildflowers. for pull-ups, sit-ups, Returning to the and other exercises— parking area, the features a wide, trail narrows to a footpath that level footpath that parallels the river. crosses several small creeks. This It is well designed for walking, jog- area shelters beavers, muskrats, ging, and bicycling. Because it is very waterfowl, and other wildlife. popular, finding a parking space on The Atlanta Whitewater Club weekends may take longer than walk- has erected slalom gates in the nar- ing the course. This area is one to row channel near the parking area visit to observe people or check out for training competition canoeists the latest trends in athletic wear, pet and kayakers. preferences, or all-terrain bicycles as much as to view wildlife. DRIVING DIRECTIONS Visitors seeking the solitude of a Travel I-285 to New Northside wilderness trail rather than the activ - 353 Dr. (exit 22), then north to Interstate ity of the fitness path may choose North Pkwy., and west approxi- either the Gunby Creek Loop Trail mately 0.5 mile to park entrances. that connects with the Coch ran Shoals Fitness Trail or the Powers Parking Island Floodplain Trail across the Parking is available off of Interstate bridge on the eastern side of the river. North Pkwy. for both Cochran Shoals The Powers Island Floodplain and Powers Island, and additional Trail is ideal for a leisurely stroll. The CHATTAHOOCHEE RIVER NATIONAL RECREATION AREA island is named for James Powers, SPECIAL FEATURES AND EVENTS who operated a ferry near here from u Bird walks: The Atlanta Chap- 1832 until his death in 1870. In July ter of the National Audubon Society 1864, during the Civil War, Union conducts bird walks at Cochran troops forded the Chattahoochee Shoals during the spring and fall River a short distance to the north migration. Information: 770-913-0511; at Sope Creek and here at Cochran www.atlantaaudubon.org Shoals. The troops crossing at the u The Atlanta Whitewater Club shoals stripped off all their clothing holds canoe and kayak competition except their hats and held their rifles training in the waters around Powers high over their heads as they waded Island. Information: 404-299-3752; across the swiftly flowing river. These www.atlantawhitewater.com troops carried new Sharps carbines u Guided walks: On various week- that used a new type of jacketed bul- ends during the year, park staff let that stayed dry even if the rifles members conduct guided walks at got wet. The story is told that Rebel Powers Island, which serves as a put- soldiers, trying to shoot the Yankees in and takeout point for river trips. as they crossed, were astounded when the soldiers ducked under the NEARBY ATTRACTIONS water with their rifles, then popped u Cumberland Mall/Galleria— up firing. shopping, dining, and entertainment area HISTORICAL MARKERS 1. The River Patrol at OTHER WALKS IN THE AREA Cochran’s Ford—at the #48 CRNRA—Palisades West entrance to the Cochran Unit Shoals parking area #49 CRNRA—Palisades East Unit 2. Powers Ferry—at the entrance #51 CRNRA—Sope Creek Unit to the Cochran Shoals parking area

NOTABLE PLACES 1. River Overlooks—Cochran 354 Shoals. These overlooks along the ﬁtness trail provide panoramic views of the river. 2. Puckett Home-site Ruins (1920)—Powers Island. Stacked stone foundations and bits of debris are all that remain of the house. The Puck- ett family farmed this fertile ﬂood- plain during the 1920s and 1930s. CRNRA—Cochran Shoals & Powers Island Units

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Pond on a steady, meandering CRNRA— descent to Fox Creek and the boundary with the Cochran Shoals Unit of Sope Creek the park. The biking trail continues toward Cochran Shoals as the Scrib- Unit ner Trail, while the footpath bends left to follow the creek past several intersections before ascending a winding course through the woods and back toward the Mill Trail, a distance of about 3.5 miles. A combined hike of the trails is about 5.1 miles.

TERRAIN LOCATION The Mill Trail gently About 13 miles north of downtown. descends from the parking The hike begins at the unit parking area before turning north and level- area. ing out. It then descends steeply to GPS: N33.56.282/W84.26.597 the mill ruins. The portion of the trail across the creek is mostly level, TRAIL DISTANCE following an old mill road before There are more than 7 miles of ending abruptly at a pile of dead trails in this unit of the park, trees blown down by storms. The allowing hikers to choose a route return loop is primarily rolling, and distance to suit their time and forested terrain. The Fox Creek Trail stamina. Hiking the combined Mill descends gradually from the Mill and Fox Creek Trails will provide a Trail intersection as it proceeds 356 scenic and challenging trek. through a mixed forest of evergreen The Mill Trail, including the path and deciduous trees to the Fox Creek on the eastern side of the creek, is drainage area. The path along the about 1.3 miles. (It once followed creek is level and damp, with an Sope Creek to the conﬂuence with abundance of ferns. Several paths the Chattahoochee, but downed intersect the trail and lead back to trees have now blocked the path). the main path. The Fox Creek Trail (a mixed use Turn left at the third intersection hiking and biking trail) passes Sibley and climb back to the main trail CRNRA—Sope Creek Unit

Old mill ruins by Sope Creek before bearing right and returning of Sope Creek. Today the quiet is southward again. You will pass an punctuated only by sounds of wild - old chimney (a remnant of a cabin) life—a mockingbird’s whistle or the before reaching a trail intersection to bellows of a hidden toad. But it has the left that leads northward again. not always been so tranquil. For This trail will gradually climb to an nearly 50 years, the cacophony of intersection with the Mill Trail, steam whistles, churning waters, where you may continue to the mill groaning mill wheels, and hundreds ruins or return to the parking area. of voices filled the air. Skilled slave- laborers brought inland from the DRIVING DIRECTIONS coast built the first mill here in the Travel I-285 to Riverside Dr. 1850s. The Marietta Paper Company (exit 24). Turn north on Riverside owned the mill for a decade and and drive about 2.1 miles. Turn left prospered from the manufacture of on Johnson Ferry Rd., cross the paper goods. Chattahoochee River, past the John- During the Civil War, the mill pro- son Ferry Unit of the park. Continue duced fine quality paper for printing north to Paper Mill Rd. Turn left Confederate currency, an endeavor and drive about 2 miles to the park that contributed to its destruction in entrance on the left. 1864. The Union commander, Maj. Gen. William T. Sherman, sent Gen. 357 Parking Kenner Garrard’s cavalry west along There is a small parking area off the banks of the Chattahoochee Paper Mill Rd. A daily fee is charged River to find a ford in the river and and annual passes are available. flank the Confederate defenders who were entrenched along the river line BACKGROUND near Smyrna. After capturing nearby The ruins of the Marietta Paper Mill Roswell on July 5, 1864, Garrard’s stand astride the meandering waters men rode to Sope Creek and discov- CHATTAHOOCHEE RIVER NATIONAL RECREATION AREA ered a fish dam made of rock that HISTORICAL MARKERS had been built across the river and 1. The 23rd Corps At Sope only a handful of Rebel pickets Creek—at the entrance to the guarding the southern bank. On July parking area 7, troops of the 23rd Corps of Gen. 2. Sope Creek Paper Mills—at the John M. Schofield’s Army of the entrance to the parking area Ohio crossed the Chattahoochee at 3. Sope Creek Industries—at the this location. The crossing forced entrance to the parking area Confederate commander Gen. Joseph E. Johnston to abandon his NOTABLE PLACES river line defenses and retreat to for- 1. Marietta Paper Company tifications outside Atlanta. Following ruins (1850s–1900s)— their crossing, Federal troops burned Chartered in 1859 and burned by the mill. Federal cavalry under the command After the war, the mill was of Gen. Kenner Garrard on July 8, rebuilt—the present ruins date from 1864, the mill was rebuilt and oper- this era—and within a few years was ated until 1903. thriving. By the 1880s, the mill was 2. Old chimney (c. 1900s)—South a major supplier of newsprint for of Fox Creek Trail. Located in a small local newspapers. In the late 1890s, clearing, this is all that remains of a the company changed ownership. cabin (probably a vacation retreat) It closed in 1903, shortly after a new that once occupied the site. mill opened in Marietta, powered not by water but by electricity pro- SPECIAL FEATURES AND EVENTS duced by newly completed Morgan u Guided walks: Park staff mem- Falls Dam, located just a few miles bers offer guided walks of the Mill upriver. Trail and of the Fox Creek Loop Trail For nearly 80 years the mill build- on various weekends during the year. ings remained vacant. Through the u Sibley Pond is a popular spot stewardship of the National Park for anglers. Service, the ruins have been stabilized and preserved along with nearly 400 NEARBY ATTRACTIONS 358 acres of surrounding woodlands. u Sandy Springs—shopping and The origin of the creek’s name dining area has been lost, and it has been spelled both “Sope” and “Soap” in OTHER WALKS IN THE AREA historical documents. Some attrib- #50 CRNRA—Cochran Shoals & ute the name to an early 1800s soap Powers Island Units mill on the creek, while others #52 CRNRA—Johnson Ferry Unit believe the creek is named for Chero- kee Chief Sope. CRNRA—Sope Creek Unit

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open meadows, and marshes, the CRNRA— trails are ideal for viewing birds, small mammals, and other creatures Johnson that inhabit the area around the shore. The trail is fairly level and the Ferry Unit section that parallels the river provides excellent views of the water. Look for evidence of a 19th-century ﬁsh dam at the mouth of Mulberry Creek, built by early settlers to trap ﬁsh for food.

DRIVING DIRECTIONS Travel I-75 north to I-285 east or I-85 north to I-285 west to River- side Dr. (exit 24), then north about 4 miles to the intersection with John- LOCATION son Ferry Rd., and north across the About 13 miles north of downtown. Chattahoochee River to the park The hike begins north of the parking entrance, which is on the right. area off Johnson Ferry Rd. at Columns Dr. Parking GPS: N33.56.720/W84.24.362 There is one public parking area at the park entrance off Johnson Ferry TRAIL DISTANCE Rd. and another near a picnic pavil- The Mulberry Creek Loop Trail ion in the unit. A daily fee is charged follows a 2.5-mile route and annual passes are available. 360 through the floodplain forest. BACKGROUND TERRAIN Located just north of the site where This unit is situated on a William Johnson operated his ferry fairly narrow strip of land across the Chattahoochee River from along the riverbank and floodplain, the early 1850s until his death in 1879, and stretches through meadow areas this unit offers a glimpse of the river to the first rise of the adjoining corridor as 19th-century travelers foothills. A mixture of woodlands, may have seen it. CRNRA—Johnson Ferry Unit CRNRA—Johnson Ferry Unit

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GPS: N 33. 56. 720 W 84. 24. 362 CHATTAHOOCHEE RIVER NATIONAL RECREATION AREA Johnson’s Ferry connected the rough NOTABLE PLACES wagon roads that 1. Boat led from the small Launch— settlement of Sandy adjacent to comfort Springs to the station. This ramp bustling towns of is popular with Marietta and Ros - canoeists, kayakers, well, passing dense and rafters. forest and a few scat- 2. Group Picnic tered farms along the Pavilion—by parking way. Federal cavalry- area No. 2 in south- men left a camp near ern part of the unit. here in July 1864 and burned the Marietta SPECIAL FEATURES Paper Company mill AND EVENTS on Sope Creek (see u Guided walks #51) before moving River rafts are periodically north to destroy a offered by park textile mill in Roswell staff. (see #31). As the steep bluffs sculpted by NEARBY ATTRACTIONS the river’s course rise away to the u Sandy Springs—shopping and north and south, the trail follows a dining area transition zone between the water’s edge and the meadows. Beyond the OTHER WALKS IN THE AREA meadows is the old-growth forest. #30 Chattahoochee Nature The area is home to a variety of wild Center creatures, including birds, amphib- #50 CRNRA—Cochran Shoals & ians, reptiles, beavers, and muskrats. Powers Island Units Across Johnson Ferry Rd., the #51 CRNRA—Sope Creek Unit southern portion of the Johnson #53 CRNRA—Gold Branch Unit 362 Ferry Unit contains 2 large recreation ﬁelds (the nearest was used for many years as a polo ﬁeld) connected by a wide, grassy 0.3-mile long path that follows the riverbank.

HISTORICAL MARKERS 1. Garrard And Newton Move On Roswell—Johnson Ferry Rd. at the park entrance CHATTAHOOCHEE RIVER NRA C H A P T E R 5 3

and descents, and offers a sampling CRNRA— of the park’s footpaths.

Gold Branch DRIVING DIRECTIONS Travel I-75 to the Marietta Unit Loop (GA 120, exit 263), to Lower Roswell Rd., then east about 8 miles to the park. Or travel I-85 north to GA 400 (exit 27) to Northridge Rd. (exit 6), then west to Roswell Rd. and north across the Chattahoochee River to Azalea Dr., west on Azalea Dr., then west onto Willeo Rd. until it becomes Lower Roswell Rd. The park entrance is on the left.

LOCATION Parking About 16 miles north of downtown, A parking area is located just south between Marietta and Roswell. The of the Lower Roswell Rd. entrance. A hike begins at the parking area. daily fee is charged, and annual GPS: N33.59.056/W84.23.115 passes are available.

TRAIL DISTANCE BACKGROUND The Gold Branch trail network Unlike other nearby units of the offers more than 7 miles of CRNRA, such as Sope Creek and footpaths, ranging from easy walks Vickery Creek, Gold Branch contains to difficult hikes. The highlighted no ruins, dams, or other man-made route is about 4.2 miles. structures, although Bull Sluice Lake 363 is the product of the construction TERRAIN of nearby Morgan Falls Dam in 1904. The trails follow rolling, Consequently, along the banks of heavily forested terrain Bull Sluice Lake the rolling hills climb through creek bottoms, past Bull away from the water, offering ves- Sluice Lake, across ridge-tops, and tiges of the wilderness as it may have along the river’s edge. The high- appeared long before humans lighted trail has moderate ascents intruded on the land. CHATTAHOOCHEE RIVER NATIONAL RECREATION AREA What draws people to this area NOTABLE PLACES today is the challenging hiking along There are none on this trail, the network of trails as well as the but one site is nearby: fishing on the shores of the numer- 1. Morgan Falls Dam (1904)—Roswell ous inlets. Gold Branch is an attrac- Rd. at Morgan Falls Park. Built tion for naturalists, and each season shortly after the turn of the 20th brings unique characteristics: the century by the Atlanta Water and splash of color created by spring Electric Power Company, this dam wildflowers; the lush greenery and provided Atlanta with its first hydro- cool shade of summer; the golden electric power. In 2009, the City of leaves and brisk breezes of fall; and Sandy Springs opened Overlook Park the stark beauty and vistas of winter. at Morgan Falls, offering river access As in other parts of the park, the points and recreational facilities ridge and riverbank support a varied while preserving important historical array of plant and animal life. Plant sites around the dam. Among these life includes woodland oaks, hicko- sites is the chimney of the Powers ries, and beech trees along the family cabin (c. 1839). The Powers hillsides with fruit trees and marsh family operated a ferry across the plants along the river and lake Chattahoochee River for many years. shores. Wildlife abounds; a variety of birds, reptiles, small mammals, NEARBY ATTRACTIONS and an occasional deer reward the u Chattahoochee Nature Center patient observer. u Chattahoochee River Park The network of trails in Gold u Historic Roswell Branch seems to have evolved over u Overlook Park at Morgan Falls the years, and as a result, some paths are blazed and maintained OTHER WALKS IN THE AREA while others are unmarked and over- #30 Chattahoochee Nature grown. Possibly because of its lim- Center ited recreational facilities, Gold #31 Historic Roswell Branch does not attract as many visi- #51 CRNRA—Sope Creek Unit tors as do other units. It therefore #52 CRNRA—Johnson Ferry Unit 364 offers unmatched solitude and the #54 CRNRA—Vickery Creek Unit lure of secret fishing spots.

HISTORICAL MARKERS There are no markers on this trail, but one is nearby: 1. Garrard’s Cavalry At Roswell—Lower Roswell Rd. at Willeo Creek CRNRA—Gold Branch Unit

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access trail ascends above the creek to CRNRA— link with the park’s trail system. A left turn leads to an access trail to Vickery Vickery Creek Creek Dam before following the course of the creek eastward. A series Unit of interconnecting loops meanders through thick woodlands and small meadows in the interior of the park, and a spur trail follows hill slopes downward to the southern parking area and the fading traces of the antebellum Ivy Mill site. A climb back up leads to the return loop to complete the walk. There are several linear spur trails leading to park boundaries and LOCATION down to Vickery Creek. A few paths About 22 miles north of downtown. lead to rugged cliff areas that may be From the parking area, a paved path dangerous to climb. leads down to a covered pedestrian bridge across Vickery Creek. From DRIVING DIRECTIONS the south side of the bridge, a foot- Travel I-85 north to GA 400 path ascends to join the unit’s trail (exit 87) to Northridge Rd. (exit 6), network. The highlighted trek begins west on Northridge Rd. to Roswell at the pedestrian bridge spanning Rd., then north on Roswell Rd. for the creek. 2 miles to the Chattahoochee River. GPS: N34.0.775/W84.21.587 Cross the river and turn right on Riverside Rd. The southern park 366 TRAIL DISTANCE entrance is on the immediate left. A The unit offers a 6-mile net- northern access point is located adja- work of interconnecting trails. cent to the Roswell Mill shopping The highlighted route is a trek of complex off Atlanta St. (Ros well Rd.) about 4.5 miles. across from the square in Roswell.

TERRAIN Parking From the pedestrian bridge A main parking area is located off near the mill complex, the Mill St. adjacent to the Roswell Mill CRNRA—Vickery Creek Unit

Vickery Creek Falls and dam shopping complex; there are other Tears (1838), and the land was still parking areas near Roswell’s Waller Cherokee territory. King vowed to Park and at the southern entrance return someday and settle in this to the unit off Riverside Rd. A daily beautiful country. Once the land was fee is charged, and annual passes opened for settlement, King made are available. good on his vow. With his son, Bar- rington, and several other pioneer PUBLIC TRANSPORTATION families, including John Dunwody Regular bus service (#85 and James Bulloch (maternal grand- Roswell/Mansell Rd.) runs father of Pres. Theodore Roosevelt), along Roswell Rd. The buses operate he established the settlement of from the North Springs rail station. Roswell in 1839. The settlers took MARTA: 404-848-5000; www. advantage of the abundant water of itsmarta.com the Chattahoochee River and its tributary, Vickery Creek, and built the BACKGROUND Roswell Manufacturing Corporation, Roswell King first glimpsed this area the first of several milling operations 367 in the 1820s on a journey from his that would make them wealthy. Fol- home in the coastal town of Darien lowing Roswell King’s death in 1844, to the goldfields of Dahlonega. He Barrington King served many years saw a rugged, heavily forested land as company president. that overlooked the meandering Today, only a vestige of wilderness Chattahoochee River. remains tucked away among the This was before the Cherokee hills. Human impact on the land is Nation’s removal on the Trail of evident in the decaying ruins of the CHATTAHOOCHEE RIVER NATIONAL RECREATION AREA Roswell Mill and dam, which provide NOTABLE PLACES a fading glimpse of the pioneers’ 1. Roswell Manufacturing prosperity, drawn from the waters of Company Dam and Ruins the Chattahoochee River. (1839)—Spanning the creek just south By the time of the Civil War, of the town of Roswell are the ruins Roswell had 4 textile mills and a tan- of the dam that once served the nery supplying goods for the Confed- Roswell Manufacturing Company. eracy. Gen. William T. Sherman’s The ruins of Roswell Mill, which invasion of Georgia in 1864 included operated from 1839 to 1926, are visi- the capture of Roswell and resulted ble on the hillside above the dam. in the destruction of the mills and (See #31.) dam by Federal troops. Several were 2. Covered Pedestrian Bridge rebuilt after the war and operated (2004)—Roswell Mill parking area. for many more years. (See #31.) This bridge was constructed by the At Vickery Creek, the terrain is var- City of Roswell to provide convenient ied, ranging from forest and mead- access to the park. The style is remi- ows to ridgetops and creek bottoms. niscent of a 19th century covered Thick woods, steep bluffs, and rock bridge, and it provides an excellent outcrops are notable. The area is an view of the creek below. excellent place to observe an array of 3. Site of Ivy Woolen Mill (1857)— wildlife; main attractions are small west side of Vickery Creek at River- mammals and birds. Be especially side and Roswell Rds. This was one alert to wildlife in the transition zones of the first mills built in the area. between meadows and forest. During the Civil War it produced A trek along these paths provides high-quality wool that the Confeder- an opportunity to explore an area ate Army called “Roswell Grey.” where natural and human history With Union troops marching on have merged to shape the land over Roswell, mill superintendent the past 170 years. Theophile Roche flew the French flag over the mill in a feeble effort to HISTORICAL MARKERS claim neutrality. When Union cavalry There are no markers on the arrived, Brig. Gen. Kenner Garrard 368 trail, but two are nearby: dispatched a note to Gen. Sherman, 1. Garrard’s Cavalry and “Over the woolen factory the French Newton’s Division—Azalea Dr. flag was flying, but seeing no Federal approximately 0.1 mile west of flag above it, I had the building Roswell Rd. burnt. All are burnt. . . .” Sherman 2. McPherson’s Troops at Shal- responded by giving Garrard permis- low Ford—Azalea Dr. approximately sion to “hang the wretch” who flew 0.1 mile west of Roswell Rd. the French flag (Roche was spared), and to arrest all the mill workers for CRNRA—Vickery Creek Unit

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SPECIAL FEATURES AND EVENTS u Guided walks are conducted by park staff members on various weekends during the year. For annual events in nearby Roswell, see #31. Information: Roswell Visitor Center, 617 Atlanta St.; 770-640-3253 or 800- 776-7935; www.visitroswellga.com 370 NEARBY ATTRACTIONS u Chattahoochee River Park u Roswell Historic District—historic square, shopping, and dining u Canton St. Stores—shopping and dining CHATTAHOOCHEE RIVER NRA C H A P T E R 5 5

Chattahoochee River for about 1 CRNRA— mile. Of particular interest are the large rock outcrops and cave-like Island Ford rock overhangs that are just a short distance off the trail. After the ﬁrst Unit mile, the trail turns away from the water and begins a steady ascent into the heavily forested hills. The path climbs for about a half mile before it makes a sharp left turn and begins a gradual, then quite steep descent to return to the ﬂoodplain, where it closes the loop a short distance from the parking area.

DRIVING DIRECTIONS LOCATION Travel I-75 to I-285 east or I-85 About 17 miles north of downtown. to GA 400 (exit 87), to Northridge The hike begins and ends at the visi- Rd. (exit 6), west to Dunwoody Pl., tor center. then right to Roberts Dr. The park GPS: W33.59.232/W84.19.497 entrance, Island Ford Pkwy., is approximately 0.5 mile ahead on TRAIL DISTANCE the right. The River Trail Loop is about 3 miles. Several other short trails Parking connect the loop trail with parking Trailheads mark each of the 3 park- and picnic areas. ing areas on Island Ford Pkwy. A daily fee is charged and annual 371 TERRAIN passes are available. An old, rutted road forms the nucleus of the River BACKGROUND Trail, which begins at the headquar- At Island Ford, the natural beauty ters building and traces a 3-mile loop of the Chattahoochee River blends through the park. From the trail- with ghostly images of its human his- head, the path quickly descends to tory. The small islands and rocky the floodplain, where it parallels the shoals with eddies of slow-moving CHATTAHOOCHEE RIVER NATIONAL RECREATION AREA water provided shal- tain, it was the sum- low fords for early mer retreat of Geor- settlers seeking safe gia Superior Court passage across the Judge Samuel Hew - river. Today they draw lett. Visitor Center anglers and boaters hours: 9 AM–5 PM, seeking an outdoor daily. Information: challenge. 678-538-1200; The foot trails www.nps.gov/chat offer a mixture of 2. Rock over- level paths along the hangs—along the floodplain and a trail. For centuries strenuous climb to these two large rock the nearby ridges Trail climbing away from river overhangs probably against a backdrop of served as shelters for dense trees. Here, natives hunting and too, massive rock outcrops attest to fishing in the area. the dynamic geological evolution of 3. Hewlett Field—south of the the river, and two large, cave-like rock Administration Building. This open overhangs provide shelter from foul field is a popular spot for picnicking, weather—visitors waiting out thun- outdoor demonstrations, and a fast derstorms beneath these walls will game of Frisbee. A boat ramp is certainly feel a kinship with ancestors adjacent to the field. who sojourned here centuries ago. The centerpiece of Island Ford is SPECIAL FEATURES AND EVENTS the green-roofed log building housing u Guided walks and presenta- the Chattahoochee River National tions by park staff are conducted in Recreation Area Administrative this area on various weekends Offices and visitor center. Park staff is throughout the year. available here to provide information and offer assistance in exploring NEARBY ATTRACTIONS Island Ford and other park units. u Overlook Park at Morgan Falls 372 Dam NOTABLE PLACES 1. Park headquarters OTHER WALKS IN THE AREA complex (1930s)—Island #30 Chattahoochee Ford Pkwy. The focal point of these Nature Center buildings is the green-roofed struc- #31 Historic Roswell ture resembling a large log cabin. #33 Big Creek Greenway— Crafted of logs from the Okefenokee Alpharetta Section Swamp and rock from Stone Moun- #54 CRNRA—Vickery Creek Unit CRNRA—Island Ford Unit

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steeply into the surrounding woods CRNRA— before winding down a moderately steep descent to rejoin the riverside Medlock path. Bridge DRIVING DIRECTIONS Travel north on Peachtree Unit Industrial Blvd.; bear left on Peach - tree Pkwy. (U.S. 141); continue on the parkway approximately 4.6 miles. After the parkway merges with Med- lock Bridge Rd., the park entrance will be ahead on the right.

Parking A parking area lies adjacent to the boat ramp and picnic area. A daily LOCATION fee is charged, and annual passes are The unit is located on Peachtree available. Pkwy. about 9 miles north of I-285 at Peachtree Industrial Blvd. (U.S. 141, BACKGROUND exit 31), approximately 25 miles from Thick woods blend with the open downtown Atlanta. The walk begins floodplain and provide excellent at the parking area. opportunities for viewing a variety of GPS: N33.59.739/W84.12.156 wildlife. Along this scenic bend in the river, signs of beavers, muskrats, TRAIL DISTANCE raccoons, minks, and weasels are 374 Trails extend 3 miles into the common. At the edge of the forest, forest and along the riverbank, birds of all kinds—from kingfishers following a 2.4-mile route along the to woodpeckers and an occasional riverbank and into the surrounding great blue heron—make exploration hills. The highlighted walk combines exciting. a loop and linear paths. The 43-acre Medlock Bridge Unit is popular with anglers and boaters TERRAIN as well as hikers. The deep, cold From the level, open flood- water is a haven for trout, and a plain, the loop trail climbs CRNRA—Medlock Bridge Unit

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SPECIAL FEATURES AND EVENTS u Guided hikes are occasionally offered by park naturalists.

NEARBY ATTRACTIONS u Old Norcross Commercial Medlock Bridge Unit trail District u Berkeley Lake u Abbots Bridge Unit of the CRNRA (boating, ﬁshing, and picnicking)

OTHER WALKS IN THE AREA #31 Historic Roswell #33 Big Creek Greenway— Alpharetta Section #34 Big Creek Greenway— Forsyth Section #54 CRNRA—Vickery Creek Unit #55 CRNRA—Island Ford Unit #57 CRNRA—Jones Bridge Unit

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land area before returning to the CRNRA— parking area. The southern loop follows the river trail through the flood- Jones Bridge plain for the first mile before climbing through the wooded hills and past a Unit parcel of private property. The path returns to the floodplain on a winding route to the Geosphere Environ- mental Education Training Center property. Portions of the path cross open meadows that are excellent places to observe birds and other small wildlife, and the sections along LOCATION the riverbank are especially scenic. The park is about 13 miles north of the intersection of GA 400 and I-285. DRIVING DIRECTIONS The hike begins at the north parking The park is located on Barn- area. well Rd. Travel I-285 to GA 400 (exit GPS: W34.00.080/N84.14.384 87) to Holcomb Bridge Rd. (exit 7B if northbound, exit 7 if southbound). TRAIL DISTANCE Travel east on Holcomb Bridge for The unit contains about 7 4.2 miles. Turn left on Barnwell Rd., miles of trails. The loop to the continuing for 1.2 miles to the park bridge from the northern parking entrance on the right. Enter and fol- area is about 1.2 miles, while the loop low the park road to the north park- along the blue-blazed trail from the ing area. southern parking area is about 3 miles. Starting from the southern Parking 377 parking area and combining both There are small parking areas at loops is a hike of about 6.8 miles. both the northern and southern trail - heads. A daily fee is charged and TERRAIN annual passes are available. For most of its length, the northern path is level but BACKGROUND does gently climb on a short loop Jones Bridge offers a pleasant path through an open meadow and wood- along the boundary between the river CHATTAHOOCHEE RIVER NATIONAL RECREATION AREA floodplain and the surrounding for- and other adult educators. Center est. Here are ideal vantage points for programs are occasionally open to observing the activities of wildlife in the public. Program information is the woodland, floodplain, and river available from CRNRA headquar- habitats. A wide variety of waterfowl, ters: 678-538-1200; www.nps.gov/chat. songbirds, and numerous small creatures—both mammal and reptile— NOTABLE PLACES make their homes at the river’s edge. 1. Jones Bridge Ruins The Jones Bridge shoals offer some of (1904)—The rusting remains the park’s finest trout fishing. of half of the bridge recall the isola- The remains of the old bridge, tion of rural life a century ago. which replaced Jones Ferry in 1904, 2. Chattahoochee River Environ- are a notable feature of the walk. The mental Education Center (1995)— Jones family’s ancestor, John Martin, Barnwell Rd. at the southern end of acquired this land in 1819, and the the park. (The road is not open to Jones family began operating a ferry the public.) This former residence here before the Civil War and contin- is now an environmental education ued until the turn of the last century center. when the bridge was erected. The bridge connected the Fulton and SPECIAL FEATURES AND EVENTS Gwinnett County sides of the river u Guided hikes are offered by and was open until the 1930s, when it park staff members at different park was declared unsafe. Neither county units during the year. claimed responsibility for the bridge’s upkeep, so it simply deteriorated. In NEARBY ATTRACTIONS 1940, half of the bridge was stolen u Jones Bridge Park and sold for scrap metal! u Old Norcross Commercial Opposite the old bridge is Jones District Bridge Park, a Gwinnett County recreation area with picnic and playground OTHER WALKS IN THE AREA facilities. (The park is accessible #31 Historic Roswell from Peachtree Pkwy.) Throughout #32 Autrey Mill Nature Preserve 378 this national park unit, the careful #33 Big Creek Greenway— observer will see old fence posts, Alpharetta Section stacked stones, and other evidence of #54 CRNRA—Vickery Creek Unit farming from many decades ago. #55 CRNRA—Island Ford Unit The Chattahoochee River Envi- #56 CRNRA—Medlock Bridge ronmental Education Center in the Unit southern portion of the park provides educational classes and workshops for teachers, scout leaders, CRNRA—Jones Bridge Unit

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'03. 7 SELECTED BIBLIOGRAPHY

Atherton, Elizabeth and Meredith Beswick, Paul G.; Isabelle Gournay; Rambo. A Selection of Nineteenth Gerald W. Sam; and Dana F. Century Homes in Historic Mari- White. AIA Guide to the Architec- etta, Georgia. Marietta, GA, 1976. ture of Atlanta. Athens, GA: Uni- versity of Georgia Press, 1993. Atlanta City Directory. Atlanta, GA: Atlanta City Directory Company. Blumenson, John J. G. Identifying Various publishers, 1870–2000. American Architecture, A Pictorial Guide to Styles and Terms, 1600– Atlanta’s Lasting Landmarks. Atlanta 1945. Nashville, TN: American Urban Design Commission, Association for State and Local Atlanta, 1987. History, 1977; 1981.

Atkins, Robert L. and Martha M. Clarke, Caroline McKinney. The Story Griffin. Geologic Guide to Panola of Decatur, 1823–1899. Atlanta: Mountain State Park–Rock Outcrop Higgins-McArthur/Longino and Trail. Atlanta, GA: Porter, Inc., 1973. State of Georgia Department of Natural Resources, 1977. Craig, Robert M.; Elizabeth M. Dowling; William R. Mitchell, Jr.; Bacote, Clarence A. The Story of and Elizabeth P. Stanfield. From Atlanta University 1865–1965. Plantation To Peachtree. Atlanta: Princeton, NJ: Princeton Haas Publishing Co., 1987. University Press, 1969. Brown, Harry S. and Gordon R. Bayor, Ronald H.; James E. Brittain; Elwell. Crossroads of Conflict: A Guide Lawrence Foster; Augustus W. to Civil War Sites in Georgia. Georgia 380 Giebelhaus; and Germaine M. Civil War Commission and Georgia Reed. Engineering The New South, Department of Economic Develop- Georgia Tech 1885–1985. Athens, ment. Athens, GA: University of GA: University of Georgia Press, Georgia Press, 2010. 1985. Dowling, Elizabeth M., Ph.D. Ameri- can Classicist—The Architecture of Philip Trammell Shutze. New York, NY: Rizzoli International, 1989. Selected Bibliography English, Thomas H. Emory University Lyon, Elizabeth A. Atlanta Architec- 1915–1965, A Semicentennial History. ture, the Victorian Heritage: Atlanta: Higgins-McArthur and 1837–1918. Atlanta: Atlanta Histor- Co., 1966. ical Society, 1976.

Garrett, Franklin M. Atlanta and Martin, Harold H. Atlanta and Environs, A Chronicle of Its People Environs, A Chronicle of Its People and Events, Volumes I and II. and Events, Volume III. Athens, Athens, GA: University of Georgia GA: University of Georgia Press, Press, 1954. 1987.

Georgia Historical Society, Historical Martin, Van Jones and William R. Markers Index. Georgia Historical Mitchell, Jr. Classic Atlanta. New Society, 2010. Orleans: Martin-St. Martin Pub- www.georgiahistory.org/ lishing Co., 1991. historic_markers. Martin, Van Jones and William R. Grady, James. Architecture of Neel Mitchell, Jr. Landmark Homes of Reid in Georgia. Athens, GA: Georgia 1783–1983, Two Hundred University of Georgia Press, 1973. Years of Architecture, Interiors, and Gardens. Savannah, GA: Golden Jones, James P. and James L. McDo- Coast Publishing Co., 1982. nough. War So Terrible, Sherman and Atlanta. New York: W.W. Nor- Matthews, Jane F. and Elizabeth M. ton and Co., 1987. Sawyer. The Old in New Atlanta, A Directory of Houses, Buildings and Kaemmerlen, Cathy J. The Historic Churches Built Prior to 1915 Still Oakland Cemetery of Atlanta: Standing in the Mid-1970s in Atlanta Speaking Stones. Charleston, SC: and Environs. Atlanta, GA: JEMS The History Press, 2007. Publications, 1976, 1978.

Key, William. The Battle of Atlanta Mitchell, William R. Jr. and Richard and the Georgia Campaign. J. Moore. Gardens of Georgia. 381 Atlanta, GA: Peachtree Atlanta: Peachtree Publishers, Publishers, 1981. 1987.

Linley, John. The Georgia Catalogue– New Georgia Encyclopedia. Georgia Historic American Building Survey, Humanities Council and the A Guide to the Architecture of the University of Georgia Press, 2004– State. Athens, GA: University of 2010; www.georgiaencyclopedia.org. Georgia Press, 1982. CHATTAHOOCHEE RIVER NATIONAL RECREATION AREA Oakland Cemetery: Atlanta’s Most Yates, Bowling C. Historical Guide Tangible Link. Atlanta: for Kennesaw Mountain National Oakland Cemetery, Inc., 1977. Battlefield Park and Marietta, Georgia. Marietta, GA: Kennesaw Read, Florence M. The Story of Mountain Historical Association Spelman College. Princeton, NJ: and Marietta Federal Savings and Princeton University Press, 1961. Loan Association, 1976.

Richardson, Harry V. Walk Together Children, The Story of the Birth and Growth of the Interdenominational Theological Center. Atlanta: Inter- denominational Theological Cen- ter Press, 1981.

Scaife, William R. The Campaign for Atlanta. William R. Scaife, 4th Ed. 1993.

Scruggs, Carroll P. Georgia Historical Markers. Valdosta, GA: Bay Tree Grove Publishers, 1973.

Sewell, George A. and Cornelius V. Troup. Morris Brown College, The First Hundred Years. Atlanta: Morris Brown College, 1981.

Shavin, Norman and Bruce Galphin. Atlanta, Triumph of a People. Atlanta: Capricorn Corporation, 1982. 382 Vanishing DeKalb: A Pictorial History. Decatur, GA: DeKalb Historical Society, 1985. INDEX

Abernathy, Ralph David, 48 Bailey, Ivan, 141 Abner-Camp House, 321 Baker, Woolford B., 153, 160 Adams, Myron, 35 Baltimore Block, 100 Agnes Scott College, xvi, 213, 288, 291–97 Bancker, Mrs. Hugh, 204 Allen, Ivan, Jr., 14, 190 Band of Brothers, 201 Alpharetta Parks and Recreation Bank of America, 20, 100 Department, 264 Barili, Alfredo, 94 American Missionary Association, 35 Barker, H. H., 145, 196 Andrews, James J., 61, 63, 89, 91, 94, 215, 216, Barrington Hall, 249, 251 242 Basilica of the Sacred Heart of Jesus, 26 APEX Museum, 30 Bass High School, 88 Arabia Mountain. See Davidson–Arabia Bate, Gen. William, 169 Mountain Nature Preserve Battle of Atlanta, 16, 41, 50, 61–63, 69–70, 72, Arabia Mountain Alliance, 332, 334 76–78, 85, 284, 290 Arnett, Trevor, 40 Battle of Jonesboro, 316, 319–20 Arnold, Francis M., 318 Battle of Kennesaw Mountain, 216, 222–23, Ashford, C. H., 201–2, 206 236–42 Ashley Oaks, 318 Battle of Peachtree Creek, 172, 176 Atlanta and West Point Rail Road, 56 Battle of Utoy Creek, xii, 57 Atlanta Baptist College. See Morehouse Bedell, J. W., 177 College Bell, Griffin, 192 Atlanta Baptist Female Seminary. See Bell Bomber Plant, 217 Spelman College Belt Line, xvii, xviii Atlanta Black Crackers, 52 Benning, Augustus Harrison, 86 Atlanta Botanical Garden, 119, 121–22, 125–26 Berkshire, Jack, 202 Atlanta City Hall, 12, 16, 19 Biffle, John, 296 Atlanta History Center, 24, 103, 185–86, 193 Big Bethel AME Church, 14, 30, 36, 66 Atlanta Ladies Memorial Association, 61, Big Creek Greenway (Alpharetta), 262–65 65–66 Big Creek Greenway (Forsyth), 266–68 Atlanta Life Insurance Company, 14, 30 Big Shanty, 90, 215, 242 Atlanta Preservation Center, 31, 74, 81, 95, Bigham, Madge, 48 101, 107, 133 Biltmore Hotel, 98 Atlanta University Center. See Clark Atlanta Birney, Alice M., 218, 221 383 University; Interdenominational Bitsy Grant Tennis Center, 169–70, 172, 174, Theological Center; Morehouse College; 177–78, 180 Morris Brown College; Spelman College Black, Charles, 186, 190 Atlanta Whitewater Club, 353–54 Black Creek. See Suwanee Creek Greenway Auburn Avenue Research Library, 30 Blair, D. W., 221 Augusta Institute. See Morehouse College Blair, Leon, 221 Bleckley, Haralson, 196, 198 Bona Allen Tannery, 279 Index Bond, George H., 138 Callaway, Fuller, 114 Bond, James, 42 Camp Chattahoochee. See Chattahoochee Bonnie Baker Butterfly Garden, 246 Nature Center Boone, Joseph, 42 Campanile, 97 Borglum, Gutzon, 299–300, 305 Campbell, William J., 146 Bowden, Henry, 160 Candler, Asa G., 23, 29, 80–81, 84, 86, 143– Boxwood, 148 44, 148–49, 158, 290, 295 Boxwood Hills, 192 Candler, Asa G., Jr., 71, 146 Boykin, Samuel, 192–93 Candler, Charles Howard, 141, 144 Boys High School, 92, 140 Candler, Charles Murphy, 295 Bradley Peak, 330–31, 334 Candler, Milton A., 295 Bragg, Eugene E., 141 Candler, Warren A., 158 Breman Jewish Heritage Museum, 106 Candler, William, 98, 148 Breuer, Marcel, 24 Candler Building, 23, 25 Briarcliff, The, 149 Candler Park, xvi, 82, 84, 86–87 Broadlands, 190 Capital City Club, 25, 196–98 Broadwell, Radford Green, 254 Capone, Al, 146 Brookhaven, 195–99 Carlos Museum, 162, 167 Brookwood Hills, 168, 170–74, 176–77 Carnegie, Andrew, 110 Brown, A. Ten Eyck, 19, 20, 21, 72, 130 Carnes, Stephen, 320 Brown, Dewey, 299 Carnes-Lawrence-Hansard House, 320 Brown, Joseph E., 223 Carr, Harry J., 166 Brown, Joseph M., 223 Carr, Mark, 240 Brown, Morris, 36–37, 43, 66 Carter, Jimmy, xv, 77, 81, 83, 85, 110, 192, 251 Bruce and Morgan, 19, 23, 26, 98, 101, 109, Carter Presidential Center and Library, xv, 110, 292 77, 81, 85, 159 Brumby, Col. Arnoldus, 224 Caruso, Enrico, 29, 101 Brumby, James R., 222 Cascade Forest Association, 57 Brumby, Otis, Sr., 221 Cascade Springs Nature Preserve, 52, 55–59 Brumby rocker, 222 Cascade Springs Resort, 57 Buford, 279 Castle, The (Atlanta), 103, 132 Buford Dam, 342 Castle, The (Roswell), 254 Bulloch, James, 249, 256, cemeteries Bulloch, Martha, “Mittie”, 252, 306 Confederate Cemetery (Jonesboro), 315, Bull Sluice Lake, 363 316, 320 Burdette, B. F., 170, 173 Confederate Cemetery (Marietta), 218, Burns, James A., 74 224 Burnside, Julia, 319 Decatur Cemetery, 291, 296 384 Burnside, Thomas, 318–19 Episcopal Church Cemetery (Marietta), Butler Street YMCA, 28, 44 223 Founders’ Cemetery (Roswell), 255 Calder, Alexander, 105 Marietta Cemetery, 224 Calhoun, James, 152, 316 Marietta National Cemetery, 224, 242 Callan Castle, 76, 81 Oakland Cemetery, 15, 60–68, 215 Callanwolde Fine Arts Center, 141, 144, 149– Old Roswell Cemetery, 255 50 Presbyterian Church Cemetery Callaway, Ely, 162 (Roswell), 251, 255 Westview Cemetery, xvii, 50, 58, 63 Index Centennial Olympic Park, 14–15, 22 Clayton County Courthouse, 319 Center for Puppetry Arts, 106 Clayton County History Museum, 319 Centers for Disease Control and Prevention, Clayton Daily News, 318 166 Cleburne, Gen. Patrick, 238, 320 Central Georgia Railway, 314 Cleveland, Grover, 120, 163 Chambers, Anne Cox, 192 Cloud, Aaron, 304 Chappel, Robert, 166 Cloud’s Tower, 304 Chastain, Troy, 208 Clyde Shepherd Nature Preserve, 282–87 Chastain Arts Center, 210 Cobb, Mary, 215 Chastain Park, 207–11 Cobb, Thomas W., 215 Chatham, 192 Cobb County Government Complex, 220 Chatham Court Apartments, 95 Cobb Landmarks and Historical Society, Chattahoochee Nature Center, 244–45 222 Chattahoochee River Environmental Coca-Cola Company, The, 13, 20, 203 Education Center, 378 and philanthropy, 22, 29, 33, 71, 84, 86, Chattahoochee River National Recreation 158–59, 163, 165, 290 Area (CRNRA), 340–79 facilities, 22, 29, 49, 117 Chattahoochee River Park, 246 homes of former executives, 76, 80–81, Cheatham, Gen. Benjamin, 76, 238 148, 150, 188, 190, 193, 211 Cheatham Hill, 236–37, 239, 240–41 Cochran, Berry, 336, 338 Cherokee (Indians), 11, 214, 233–34, 245, 249, Cochran, Berry, Jr., 336 254, 258, 278, 289, 331–32, 342, 358, 367 Cochran, Cheadle, 336, 338 Cherokee Town Club, 188 Cochran Mill Park and Nature Preserve, Cherokee Trail, 302–3, 305, 307–8 335–339 Cherry Sims Asian-American Garden, 186 Cochran Mills, 336 Chief Ladiga Trail, xvi, 228, 233 Cochran Shoals Unit (CRNRA), 352–55 Chihuly, Dale, 122 Cole, Henry, 216, 223 Children’s Healthcare of Atlanta at Cole, Johnnetta, 33 Egleston, 164 colleges and universities. See Agnes Scott Christ the King Roman Catholic Cathedral, College; Atlanta University Center; 182 Emory University; Oglethorpe Civil War battlefields University; Savannah College of Art and Battle of Atlanta, 16, 41, 50, 61–63, 69–70, Design; University of Georgia 72, 76–78, 85, 284, 290 Collier, Andrew Jackson, 168, 173 Battle of Jonesboro, 316, 319–20 Collier, George Washington, 128 Battle of Kennesaw Mountain, 216, 222– Collier Hills, 168, 171–72 23, 236–42 Colonnade Court Apartments, 149 Battle of Peachtree Creek, 172, 176 Colony Square, 97, 103 Battle of Utoy Creek, xii, 57 Columbus Enquirer Sun, 94 385 Civilian Conservation Corps, 242 Compton, Martha Lumpkin, 62, 65 Clark, Davis W., 35 Conant Performing Arts Center, 198 Clark Atlanta University, 34–36, 40–43 Concord Covered Bridge, 228, 230 Clark College. See Clark Atlanta University Concord Woolen Mill, 228, 230 Clarke, Sarah Freeman, 222 Confederate Cemetery (Jonesboro), 315, 316, Clarke-Logan, 173 320 Clay, Alexander Stephens, 220 Confederate Cemetery (Marietta), 218, 224 Clay, Gen. Lucius D., 224 Confederate Hall, 308 Index Confederate Memorial Day, 61, 66 DeKalb County Courthouse, 288, 291 Congregation Ahshi S’Fard, 140 DeKalb County Fire Station 12, 272 Congregation Shearith Israel, 136–37 DeKalb Historical Society, 291, 296 Coolidge, Calvin, 101 Delta Park, 78 Cooper, George, 166 Denmead, Edward, 218, 221 Copenhill, 77 Dennis, Michael, 163 Cotton States and International Exposition, Denny, Willis F., 80, 86, 102, 105, 130 78, 120–22, 124–25, 130 Devil’s Racecourse Shoals, 345–46, 348–49 Cousins, Tom, 198 Dickey, James L., Sr., 186 Cox, Harvey, 165 Dixie Coca-Cola Bottling Company, 29 Cox-Carlton Hotel, 101 Dobbins Air Force Base, 217, 225 Craig, Milton S., 141 Dodd, Robert Lee “Bobby”, 117 Craigellachie, 188 Dodd-Grant Field, 109–10, 116 Craigie House, 130 Dodson, James G., 145 Crawford Long Hospital. See Emory Dogwood Hills, 190 University Hospital Midtown Dollar-Hightower-Swint House, 320 Creamer, Camille, 246 Dolvin House, 251 Creek Indians, 69, 152, 304, 336 Downing, Walter T., 23, 78, 80, 103, 105, 129, Crockett, John, 319 146, 188 Crook, Lewis, 173, 178 Draper, Jesse, 145, 193 Crosby, Virginia, 220 Druid Hills, xv, 71, 76, 83–85, 128, 142–50, 153, Cross Keys, 196 157–58, 164, 187, 193, 196 Crossroads, 252, 308 Druid Hills Baptist Church, 149 Crumley, Robert, 129 Druid Hills Country Club, 145, 196 Cunard Memorial Playground, 141 Dump, The. See Margaret Mitchell House Dunwody, John, 249, 256, 367 D’Alvigny, Noel P. P., 64v66 Dunwoody Nature Center, 269–73 Dana, Charles F., 292 Dunwoody Park, 269–70, 272 Daniel, Robert, 230 Dwoskin, Harry, 138 Daughters of the American Revolution, 124, 128, 130, 132, 220 Ebenezer Baptist Church, 14–15, 28 Davidson–Arabia Mountain Granite Echota Trail, 195 Company, 332, 334 Egleston, Henrietta, 164 Davidson–Arabia Mountain Nature Egleston, Thomas, 164 Preserve, 336, 338 1180 Peachtree Building, 103 Davis, Charles, 306 Ellis, Frank, 129 Davis, Edward Campbell, 50, 100 Elsas, Jacob, 148 Davis, Jefferson, 169, 305 Embury, Aymar, II, 190 386 DeBray Chapel, 259 Emerson, Cherry L., 166 Decatur, Stephen, 289 Emory Conference Center, 166 Decatur Cemetery, 291, 296 Emory Medical Unit, 50, 146 Decatur City Hall, 292 Emory University, 157–167 Decatur Freight Depot, 295 Emory University Hospital, 163, 294 Decatur Water Works, 284, 286 Emory University Hospital Midtown, 50, 72, DeGive, Henri, 129 97, 100 DeGress, Capt. Francis, 77 English, Harry L., 192 DeKalb, Baron Johann, 289 Index English-American Building. See Flatiron Fowler Park, 267–68 Building Fox Theatre, 97, 101, 107 Episcopal Cathedral of Saint Philip, 182 Frank, Leo, 63, 146 Episcopal Church Cemetery (Marietta), 223 Franklin, Shirley, xvii, 22 Epworth United Methodist Church, 86 Franklin A. Smith Memorial Rhododendron Equifax, 145 Garden, 186 Etowah Trail. See Hightower Trail Frazier and Bodin, 188, 190 Evans, Hiram, 178, 180, 336 Freedom Park, 76, 82–87, 228 Everett, A. F. N., 180, 197 French, Aaron, 111 Evergreen Conference Resort, 309 Friends of the River, 342 Ewing, Jones, 130 Friendship Baptist Church, 33, 40, 44 Fuller, William, 62–63, 94 Faces of War, 255 Fulton County Almshouse, 208, 210 Fairleigh, 191 Fulton County Courthouse, 13, 16, 19 Fair Oaks, 221 Fulton County Soldiers Memorial, 98 Farm Museum, 260 Fuqua, J. B., 125, 191 Faulkner, Roy, 305 Fuqua Conservatory. See Atlanta Botanical Federal Reserve Bank Building, 21, 95, 103 Garden Fernbank Forest, 151–56 Fernbank Museum of Natural History, 88, Gable, Clark, 15, 71, 101 145, 153–54 Gaines, Wesley John, 36, 43, 66 Fernbank Science Center, 88, 153 Galloway School, 208, 210 First Baptist Church (Marietta), 220 Garden Hills, 181–84, 193 First Church of Christ Scientist, 104, 128–29 Garden Hills Elementary School, 184 First Presbyterian Church (Atlanta), 105 Garrard, Gen. Kenner, 250, 357–58, 368 First Presbyterian Church (Marietta), 222 Garrett, Franklin M., 62, 187 First United Methodist Church (Atlanta), 25 Garrison House. See Reid House First United Methodist Church (Decatur), Apartments 295 Gay, Mary, 290, 296–97 Fischer, Julius, 72 Gayden, Francis, 318 Fischer, Luther C., 50, 72 Geary, Gen. John, 169–70, 172, 176, 178 Fitzgerald, Philip, 321 General, The, 63, 71, 215–16, 220, 242 Flatiron Building, 23 George Pierce Park, 278, 280 Fletcher’s, 220 Georgia Aquarium, 22 Flomar, 132 Georgia Conservancy, 324, 342 Florida, 12, 215 Georgia Department of Archives and Forest Hill, 220 History, 130 Formwalt, Moses, 62, 68 Georgia Department of Natural Resources, Fort McBride, 240 324 387 Fort McPherson, 15, 50, 121 Georgia Department of Transportation, Fort Peace. See The Castle [Atlanta] 140, 227–28, 279 Fort Walker, 70–72 Georgia Dome, 15, 20, 44 Founders’ Cemetery (Roswell), 255 Georgia Governor’s Mansion, 191 Four Roses Distillery, 101 Georgia Institute of Technology, 63, 85, 90, Four Seasons Hotel, 97, 103 98, 108–118 Fowler, Charles L., 136 Georgia Military Institute, 222, 224 Fowler House, 254 Georgia Power Company, 143 Index Georgia Railroad Freight Depot, 12, 16, 18 Gray Gables, 220 Georgia Shakespeare Festival, 202, 204, 206 Great Atlanta Fire, 91 Georgia State Capitol, 10, 13, 16, 18–19, 21, 31, Great Locomotive Chase, 61, 71, 90, 94, 216, 66 242 Georgia State Geological Survey, 57 Great Oaks, 252 Georgia State University, 21, 23, 29, 31 Great Speckled Bird, 97 Georgia Tech. See Georgia Institute of Green Country Store, 260 Technology Gress, George, 71 Georgia Trust for Historic Preservation, 105, Greystone, 125 130 Griggs, Robert, 78 Georgia World Congress Center, 15, 21–22, 45 Grove, Edwin W., 141, 149 Georgian Terrace Hotel, 97, 101 Guggenheim, Daniel, 111 Gilbert, Price, 111 Gunby Creek Loop Trail, 341, 352–53 Gilbert, William, 56 Giles, Harriet, 33, 38 Habersham Garden Club, 178 Glenn Memorial United Methodist Church, Habersham Memorial Hall, 128, 132 160, 167 Hahn, T. Marshall, 166 Glenwood, xvii, 145 Hall, Lyman, 110 Gloster, Hugh M., 34 Hamilton, Grace Towns, 43 Glover, John H., 220, 223 Hammond-Harwood House, 193 Glover Park, 220, 224 Hammonds, Otis, 48 Gold Branch Unit (CRNRA), 363–65 Hancock, Walker, 305 Golden Key National Honor Society, 149 Hand, Elizabeth King, 252 Gone With the Wind Hansell, Gen. Andrew J., 221 author of. See Mitchell, Margaret Hardee, Gen. William J., 56, 172, 315–16 movie (1939), 24, 29, 71, 94, 98, 101, 129 Harkness, Edward, 41 museum. See Road to Tara Museum Harris, Florence Candler, 163 novel, 15, 24, 64, 68, 102–03, 203, 314, 316, Harris, Joel Chandler, 47–48, 50, 94 319 Harris, Julia, 94 Goodrum, Mrs. Jefferson, 192 Harris, Julian, 94 Goodwin, Harris, 196 Harrison, Col. Benjamin, 170 Goodwin, Solomon, 197–98 Harrison, Emily, 152 Gordon, Gen. John B., 19, 66 Harrison, Zadock, 152 Goulding, Rev. Francis, 251, 254–55 Hartsfield, William B., 15, 50, 74 Grady, Henry W., 11, 13, 21, 50, 63, 90, 92, 108 Hawkins, Harold, 221 Grady High School, 92, 124 Haygood-Hopkins Memorial Gateway, 159– Grant, B. M., 197 60 Grant, Bryan M. “Bitsy”, Tennis Center. See Haygood Memorial United Methodist 388 Bitsy Grant Tennis Center Church, 134, 138 Grant, Hugh Inman, 63, 116 Haynes, Eugene V., 177–78 Grant, John W., 63, 116, 188 Haynes Manor, 177–78 Grant, Lemuel P., 70, 72 Hearst, Phoebe, 201, 203 Grant Park, 69–74, 76–78, 216, 242 Hearst, William Randolph, 201 Grant Park Conservancy, 70 Hebrew Benevolent Society, 65 Gravel, Ryan, xvii Heery and Heery, 164 Graves, Antoine, 66 Heffernan, Paul, 111, 115–16 Graves, Michael, 162 Heinz, Henry, 145 Graves, Samuel T., 41 Index Henry Grady High School. See Grady High Inman, Edward, 128, 132, 187 School Inman, Samuel M., 75, 140 Hentz, Reid, Adler and Shutze, 106, 177 Inman Middle School, 140 Heritage Park, 228, 230 Inman Park, xii, xv, 29, 63, 70, 74–81, 83–85, Hermance Stadium, 201, 204 88, 91, 143, 150 Herndon, Alonzo, 13–14, 29–30, 44 Inman Park United Methodist Church, 80 Herndon Stadium, 43 Institute of Paper Science Technology, 112 Hewlett, Samuel, 372 Interdenominational Theological Center, 32, High House, 295 36–7, 43 High Museum of Art, 97, 104–5, 125, 133 Intermodal Surface Transportation Hightower Trail. See Etowah Trail Efficiency Act (ISTEA), 283 Hill, Benjamin H., 65 Irby, Henry, 186, 211 Hinman, Thomas, 92 Irwin, David, 223 Hirsch, Jacob O., 146 Isakson, Ed, YMCA, 262, 264 historic homes. See names of individual homes Island Ford Unit (CRNRA), 344, 371–73 Hodgson, Fred, 154 Ivey, Edmund, 173 Hoke, Michael, 130 Ivey and Crook, 137–138, 160, 162, 164–165, 173 Holden, Horace, 244 Ivy, Hardy, 11, 16, 25, 65, 90 Holly Hill, 252 Ivy, Sarah Todd, 65 Hood, Gen. John B., 56, 61, 63, 169, 176, 238, Ivy Grove, 221 290, 315, 321 Ivy Hall, 95 Hooker, Gen. Joseph “Fighting Joe”, 176, 242 Ivy Woolen Mills, 249–50, 256, 368, 370 Hope, John, 35, 40 Hopson, Paul, 95, 106 J. Mack and Nita Robinson Conservatory, Hornbostel, Henry, 132, 144, 149, 158, 165 100 House, Samuel, 196, 203, 206 Jackson, Gen. “Stonewall”, 305 Houston, Maj. Washington Jackson, 166 Jackson, Maynard H., 31, 64 Howard, Gen. Oliver O., 239, 315, 349, 208, Jacobs, Joseph, 65, 192 239, 315, 349 Jacobs, Thornwell, 201 Howell, Archibald, 218, 221 James, Willis, 38 Howell, Evan P., 47–48, 172 Jaqueland, 145 Howell, George, 192 John Howell Memorial Park, 141 Howell Memorial Park. See John Howell Johnson, James F., 320 Memorial Park Johnson, William, 360 Huie, Robert, 310, 312 Johnson-Blalock House, 320 Hulse, Frank, 129 Johnson Ferry Unit (CRNRA), 360–62 Humphries, Charner, 50 Johnston, Gen. Joseph E., 169, 176, 221, 237, Huntemann, Walter, 154 358 Hurt, Augustus, 77 Jones, Boisfeuillet, 31, 107, 157, 160 389 Hurt, Joel, 75–6, 78, 80–1 Jones, Robert T. “Bobby”, 62, 65, 74, 174, Hurt Road Tunnel, 212 176, 180, 187, 191, 308 Hutcheson, Leander, 318 Jones, Samuel G., 314 Hynds, Will M., 319 Jones, William O., 132 Hynds-Blalock-Henry House, 319 Jones, Willis, 191 Jones Bridge Park, 378 Illinois Monument, 240 Jones Bridge Unit (CRNRA), 344, 377–79 Imagine It! The Children’s Museum of Jonesboro, 314–321 Atlanta, 22 Index Jonesboro Baptist Church, 318 Lake Phoebe. See Silver Lake Jonesboro Fire Station Museum, 318 Landis, Kenesaw Mountain, 239 Jonesboro Railroad Depot, 316 Lanier, Sidney, 136, 201 Jova/Daniels/Busby, 103 Lanier University, 136, 138 Judah, Gen. Henry M., 221 Lawrenceville & Suwanee Railroad, 279 LeCraw, Charles V., 80 Karina Miller Nature Preserve, 274–76 Lee, Gen. Robert E., 66, 305 Kelpen, Charles, 246 Leigh, Vivien, 15, 101 Kelpen, William, 246 Lenox Park, 135, 137–38 Kennesaw Hall, 223 Lenox Square, 197 Kennesaw House, 215, 218 Lewis, Elizabeth Washington, 220 Kennesaw Mountain, xii, 217–18, 221–23, 236– Lewis, Robert A., 252 37, 239–40, 249, 323 Liberty Bell (replica), 16, 220 Kennesaw Mountain National Battlefield Life in Dixie During the War, 297 Park, 236–42 Lincoln, Abraham, 12, 216 Key, James, 319 Lion of Atlanta, 66 Key-Carnes-Brown House, 319 Lithonia Gneiss, 331 Kimball House, 254 Little Five Points, 82–86 Kimball Opera House, 13, 21 Little Kennesaw Mountain, 240 King, Barrington, 249, 251, 255, 367 Little Mulberry Park, 274–77 King, Clyde, 148 Loew’s Grand Theater, 15, 24, 129 King, Coretta Scott, 9, 28 Logan, Carrie Steele, 66 King, George E., 78 Logan, Gen. Jonathan “Black Jack”, 77 King, Martin Luther, Jr., xii, 9, 11, 14, 26, 28, Lombard, Carole, 101 30–31, 34, 44, 48, 163, 190 Long, Crawford W., 65, 100 King, Martin Luther, Jr., Center for Long, Stephen H., 11 Nonviolent Social Change, 28 Longstreet, Gen. James, 120 King, Martin Luther, Sr., 14 Looney, George, 318 King, Mitchell, 105 Looney-Hanes-Smith House, 318 King, Roswell, 367 Lord, Aeck, Sargent, 112 King Cotton March, 120–21 Loring, Gen. William W., 169 King Plow Company, 148 Lost Mill Workers Memorial, 370 Kingston House, 306 Lowry, Col. Robert, 203 Kirkwood Land Company, 143 Lucille Creek Trail, 233–34 Kiser, Marion, 8, 61, 63 Lukeman, Augustus, 305 Kiser, W. H., 192 Lullwater Estate, 164 Kiser Memorial Bird Garden. See Martha Lumpkin, Wilson, 12, 62, 65 Kiser Memorial Bird Garden Lupton, John, 203 390 Knollwood, 192 Lutheran Church of the Redeemer, 97, 101 Kolb, Peter, 238, 242 Lynch, Stephen, 129 Kolb Farm, 236–37, 239–40 Ku Klux Klan, 94, 136, 180, 336 M.A.K. Historic District, 297 Kurtz, Wilbur, 71, 94 Maddox, Lester, 191, 324 Maddox, Robert F., 191 Lake Abana, 70 Magnolia Hall, 124 Lake Avondale, 300 Maloof, Manuel, 85 Lake Clara Meer, 120, 124–25 Mandela, Nelson: statue in Piedmont Park, 124 Index Maney, Gen. George, 169 McRae, Floyd, 174, 193 Manigault, Gen. Arthur, 77–78 Meade, Gen. George, 12 Mansell House and Gardens, 264 Meadowlands, 190 Manson, Zachary, 320 Mechanical and Manufacturers Club. See Manson-Purdy-Segner House, 320 Capital City Club Marble House, 292 Medlock, John, 90 Marcan Hall, 188 Medlock Bridge Unit (CRNRA), 374–76 Marcus, Bernie, 22 Medlock Park, 283–84, 286–87 Marcus, Sidney, 140 Methodist Superannuate House, 318 Margaret Mitchell House, 95, 102 Metropolis, 60, 97, 102 Marietta, 12, 214–25, 238, 250, 358, 362 Mewborn, Shirley Clements, 114 Marietta Cemetery, 224 Midtown, xii, 89–95 Marietta Chair Company, 218 Miller Nature Preserve. See Karina Miller Marietta-Cobb Museum of Art, 220 Nature Preserve Marietta Conference Center and Resort, Miller Lake, 274–76 224 Milton County, 250 Marietta National Cemetery, 224, 242 Mimosa Hall, 144, 249, 252 Marietta Paper Company Mill, 357–58 Minhinnett, Francis, 254 Marietta Station, 218, 220 Minton, John, 254–55 Marlow House, 222 Mitchell, Margaret, 15, 24, 62–64, 74, 102, Marsh, Margaret Mitchell. See Mitchell, 316, 319–21 Margaret Morehouse College, 14, 33–34, 36, 38, 41 Martha Kiser Memorial Bird Garden, 286 Morgan Falls Dam, 358, 363–64 Marthasville, 12, 62, 65, 90, 215 Morningside, 134–41, 178 Martin, Asbury, 230 Morningside Elementary School, 137–38 Martin, John, 378 Morningside Presbyterian Church, 140 Martin Farm and Preserve, 280 Morris Brown College, 36, 43, 66 Martin Luther King, Jr. Federal Building, 20 Moses, Edwin, 37 Martin Luther King, Jr. National Historic Mount Rushmore, 300 Site, 10, 16, 25–26 Mundy-Crowell-Burrell House, 318 Martin’s Feed and Grain Company, 230 Muse, George, 132 Mary Howard Gilbert Memorial Quarry museums Garden, 186 Carlos Museum, 162, 167 Mary Mac’s Tea Room, 94 Carter Presidential Center and Library, Marye, Alger and Vinour, 101 xv, 77, 81, 85, 159 Mason Mill Park, 283–84, 286–87 Clayton County History Museum, 319 Mays, Benjamin, 28, 34 DeKalb Historical Society, 291, 296 McCook, Col. Dan, 239–40 Farm Museum, 260 McDonald, Charles, 223 Fernbank Museum of Natural History, 391 McDuffie, Philips, 193 88, 145, 153–54 McElreath, Walter T., 187 Fernbank Science Center, 88, 153 McGill, Ralph, 94 High Museum of Art, 97, 104–5, 125, 133 McKinley, William, 120 Imagine It! The Children’s Museum of McLaren Mills, 221 Atlanta, 22 McMillan, Ferdinand, 103, 132 Institute of Paper Science Technology, 112 McPherson, Maj. Gen. James B., 50, 77, 216, Jonesboro Fire Station Museum, 318 238–40, 270, 368 Index Marietta-Cobb Museum of Art, 220 Northside Youth Organization, 208 Oglethorpe Museum, 203–4 Nunnaly, Hugh P., 190 Road to Tara Museum, 316 Roswell Fire Museum, 255 Oakhurst Community Garden, 294 Southern Museum of Locomotive and Oakland Cemetery, 15, 60–68, 215 Civil War History, 216, 242 Oakmont, 218, 223 Teaching Museum North, 252 Oakton, 218, 223 Oglethorpe, Gen. James E., 202 Nancy Creek, 207–8 Oglethorpe Museum, 203–4 National Parent Teacher Association, 221 Oglethorpe University, 200–5 nature preserves Old Bricks, The 251, 255 Cascade Springs Nature Preserve, 52, 55– Old Methodist Church (Roswell), 255 59 Old Roswell Cemetery, 255 Chattahoochee Nature Center, 244–45 Old Warsaw Church, 260 Clyde Shepherd Nature Preserve, 282–87 Old Zion Baptist Church, 223 Cochran Mill Nature Preserve and Park, Olmsted, Frederick Law, 83, 128, 143 335–339 Olmsted Brothers, 120, 143 Davidson–Arabia Mountain Nature 101st Airborne, 201 Center, 336, 338 Orme Park, 140 Dunwoody Nature Center, 269–73 Orr Building, 101 Fernbank Forest, 151–56 Our Lady of the Assumption Roman Karina Miller Nature Preserve, 274–76 Catholic Church and School, 202, 204 Panola Mountain State Conservation Out in the Rain fountain, 68 Park, xvi, 326 Outdoor Activity Center, 51–54 Reynolds Nature Preserve, 310–13 Overlook Park at Morgan Falls, 364 Naylor Hall, 254 Owens, Hubert B., 224 Neal, John, 19, 201 Oxbo Linear Park, 256 Nestledown, 192 New Gibraltar, 304, 309 Pace, Hardy, 345–46 Newman, Allen, 121 Packard, Sophia, 33, 40 New Manchester Manufacturing Company, Paideia School, 150 323–24 Palisades East Unit (CRNRA), 348–50 Newton, Gen. John, 169 Palisades West Unit (CRNRA), 345–47 Nicolson, W. Perrin, 92 Palmer House Apartments, 102 Nissen, James, 64 Pan African Orthodox Church, 48 Nixon, Vaughn, 193 Panola Mountain–Arabia Mountain PATH Noguchi, Isamu, 125 Trail, 326 Norrman, Gottfried, 43, 78, 95, 106 Panola Mountain State Conservation Park, 392 North Avenue Apartments, 117 xvi, 326 North Avenue Presbyterian Church, 101 Parker, Fess, 216 North Boulevard Park, 135, 141 Parkins, William H., 18, 43 North DeKalb Cultural Center, 273 parks (community) North DeKalb Mall, 284, 287 Big Creek Greenway (Alpharetta), 262– North Fulton Golf Course, 210 65 North Fulton High School, 184 Big Creek Greenway (Forsyth), 266–68 North Point Mall, 263–64 Candler Park, xvi, 82, 84, 86–87 Northen, Charles, 71 Centennial Olympic Park, 14–15, 22 Index Chastain Park, 207–11 Perkins and Will, 115 Chattahoochee River Park, 246 Perry, C. J., 254 Cunard Memorial Playground, 141 Pershing Point Park, 98, 105 Delta Park, 78 Peters, Edward, 90, 106 Dunwoody Park, 269–70, 272 Peters, Richard, 12, 90, 95, 98, 106 Fowler Park, 267–68 Peters Land Company, 90 Freedom Park, 76, 82–87, 228 Philips Arena, 21 George Pierce Park, 280 Phoenix Hall. See Mimosa Hall Glover Park, 220, 224 Piano, Renzo, 105 Grant Park, 69–74, 76–78, 216, 242 Pickard Chilton, 103 Heritage Park, 228, 230 Pickett’s Mill State Historic Site, 242 Howell, John, Memorial Park, 141 Piedmont Driving Club, 90, 126, 130 Jones Bridge Park, 378 Piedmont Exposition, 120 Little Mulberry Park, 274–77 Piedmont Hospital, 130, 174, 193 Mason Mill Park, 283–84, 286–87 Piedmont Park, xvii, 91, 94, 119–26 Medlock Park, 283–84, 286–87 Piedmont Park Conservancy, 121, 124, 126 Outdoor Activity Center, 51–54 Piedmont Park Tennis Center, 124 Overlook Park at Morgan Falls, 364 Pigeon Hill, 238, 240 Oxbo Linear Park, 256 Pinholster, Garland, 202 Piedmont Park, xvii, 91, 94, 119–26 Plaza Center, 149 Rock Mill Park, 264 Ponce de Leon Apartments, 101 Suwanee Creek Greenway, 278–81 Ponce de Leon Springs, 90 Suwanee Creek Park, 278, 281 Pope Dickson and Son Funeral Home Tanyard Creek Park, 168–74 Museum, 320 Town Center Park, 278, 280 Portman, John, 25–26, 165, 292 Walker Memorial Park, 300 Powder Springs, 232–34 Waller Park, 370 Powell, Dr. Chapmon, 306 Wild Horse Creek Park, 234 Powers Island Unit (CRNRA), 352–355 Parrot, James, 216 Pratt, Rev. Nathaniel, 252, 255 Paschal’s Center, 44 Preacher, G. Lloyd, 19, 145, 149 PATH Foundation, xv–xvi, 45, 75, 207, 227– Presbyterian Church Cemetery (Roswell), 28, 303, 326, 330, 334 251, 255 PATH Trails, 226–31, 232–35, 282–86, 326 Presbyterian Manse, 222 Patterson, Hyatt M., 320 Prescott, William R., 145 Peace Monument, 121, 125 Presser Hall, 292 Peace Tree, 186 Primrose Cottage, 252 Peachtree Center, 15, 25 Prince Faisal, 190 Peachtree Christian Church, 106 Prince of Wales Architecture Foundation, Peachtree Golf Club, 206 105 393 Peachtree Heights, 177–78, 182 Pringle and Smith, 23, 101, 177, 191, 197 Peachtree Manor, 102 Promenade One, 103 Peachtree Promenade, 96–107 Proudfoot, H. W., 254 Peachtree Road Race, 121 public buildings. See names of individual Pearce, John, 295 buildings Pemberton, John, 13 Pythagoras Masonic Temple, 291 Peninsula House, 188, 140 Perimeter Mall, 273 Index Quarry Exhibit, 306 Roswell Area Park, 257 Roswell Elementary School. See Teaching Rainbow Terrace, 144–45 Museum North Rainwater, Charles, 148 Roswell Fire Museum, 255 Read, Matilda, 35 Roswell Founders’ Hall, 254 Reese, Mark, 138 Roswell Grey, 249 Regenstein, Louis, 148 Roswell Manufacturing Company, 249, 368 Regenstein’s Building, 26 Roswell Mill, 246, 255–56, 368 Reid House Apartments, 105 Roswell Municipal Complex, 255 Reigel, Roy, 110 Roswell Presbyterian Church, 251–52 Rest Haven, 148 Roswell White House, 251 RESURGENS, 13 Ruff, Martin, 230 Retail Credit Company. See Equifax Ruff, Solon, 128 Reynolds, William, 310–11 Ruff’s Mill, 228, 230 Reynolds Nature Preserve, 310–13 Rusk, Dean, 47, 140 Rhodes, Amos G., 23, 105 Russell, Charles, 152 Rhodes, James D., 191 Rhodes Memorial Hall, 105, 130 Sale, George, 41 Rialto Center for the Performing Arts, 23 Sam Nunn Atlanta Federal Center, 20 Rice, John, 230 Sandcastle, 132 Rice, Z. A., 230 Sanders, Carl, 191 Rich, Walter, 149, 159 Sandtown Trail, 55 Richard Russell Federal Building, 19 Sardis United Methodist Church, 208, 210 River of the Painted Rocks, 342 Savannah College of Art and Design, 104, Rivers, Alonzo B., 318–19 106, 133 Rivers, Eretus, 177–78, 182 Schilling’s Hardware, 220 Rivers-Turner House, 318–19 Schofield, Gen. John, 56, 238 Road to Tara Museum, 316 Schwartz Center for the Performing Arts, Robert and Co., 111 163 Robert W. Woodruff Arts Center, 31, 97, 133 Scott, Col. George Washington, 290 Robinson Conservatory, 100 Scott, Rebekah, 292 Roche, Theophil, 250, 256 Scottish Rite Hospital for Crippled Rock House, 250 Children, 291, 294–95 Rock Mill Park, 264 Scribner Trail, 352 Rockefeller, John D., 33, 38 Seaboard Air Line Rail Road, 227 Rockefeller, Laura Spelman, 33, 38 Second Ponce de Leon Baptist Church, 182 Rodin, Auguste, 104 Shade, The, 104 Rogers, Kenny, 188 Shallow Ford Trail, 289 394 Rollins, Grace Crum, 159, 165 Shawnee Indians, 278 Roosevelt, Eleanor, 249 Sheldon, Charles, 146 Roosevelt, Franklin D., 130 Shepherd Nature Preserve. See Clyde Roosevelt, Teddy (Theodore), 249, 251, 367 Shepherd Nature Preserve Roosevelt, Theodore, Sr., 249 Sherman, Gen. William T., 12, 19, 25, 56, 61, Roosevelt High School, 72 77, 85, 169, 196, 201, 216, 218, 237–39, 250, Root, William, 222 315–16, 346, 357, 368 Rose, Rufus M., 101 Shrine of the Immaculate Conception Rose Hill, 34–35 Roman Catholic Church, 16, 18, 64 Index Shutze, Philip T., 20, 24, 92, 102, 105, 124, 133, St. Luke’s Episcopal Church, 98 138, 160, 163–64, 166, 184, 186–88, 190–93, St. Mark’s United Methodist Church, 102 197 Stoddart, William L., 24, 101 Silver Comet, 227 Stonehenge, 148 Silver Comet Depot, 231 Stoneman, Gen. George, 323 Silver Comet PATH Trail, 226–31, 232–35 Stone Mountain, xv–xvi, 66, 135, 148, 289, Silver Lake, 200–2 300, 302, 304–5, 327, 331–32 Silver Lake Park Company, 201 Stone Mountain Golf Course, 308 Sims, John N., 188 Stone Mountain Memorial Park, 302–9 Sims, Walter A., 188 Stone Mountain Village, 309 Skidmore, Owings, and Merrill, 23–24, 98 St. Paul United Methodist Church, 72 Slaton, John M., 63 St. Paul’s Presbyterian Church, 94 Slaton Hall, 222 Strand Theater, 220 Slocum, Gen. Henry W., 316 Strauss, Oscar, 150 Smith, Alex, Sr., 191 Strickler, Cyrus W., 146 Smith, Archibald, 255 Strong, Elizabeth Rockefeller, 38 Smith, Charles, 86 Sullivan, Louis, 34 Smith, Hoke, 177 Summerour House, 260 Smith, James, 188 Suwanee Creek Greenway, 278–81 Smith, Rankin, 88, 153 Suwanee Creek Park, 278, 281 Smith, Robert Hiram, 187 Swan Coach House, 187 Smith, Tullie, 186–87 Swan House, 186–87 Solomon’s Crossing, 196 Swan Woods Trail, 186 Sope Creek Unit (CRNRA), 352, 356–59 Swancy Farmhouse, 272 Sousa, John Philip, 120–21 Swanton, Benjamin F., 296 South Peachtree Creek PATH Trail, 282–86 Sweet Auburn, xii, 10, 26 Southern Center for International Studies, Sweet Auburn Curb Market, 28–29 192 Sweetwater Creek State Park, 322–25 Southern Christian Leadership Conference, Symphony Tower. See 1180 Peachtree 31 Building Southern Museum of Locomotive and Civil War History, 216, 242 Talmadge, Betty, 321 Sparks, George H., 324 Talmadge, Eugene, 201 Spelman College, 33, 37, 44 Talmadge, Herman, 321 Spruill Center for the Arts, 273 Tanyard Creek Park, 168–74 Spruill House, 273 Teaching Museum North, 252 Standing Peachtree, 11 Temple, The, 106 Stanley House, 222 Terminus, 11–12, 20, 65 St. Anthony’s Roman Catholic Church, 48 Texas, The, 71–72, 215–16, 242 395 Stately Oaks, 320–21 Thomas, Gen. George, 169, 240 Stephens, Alexander, 108, 220 Thomas–Barber Cabin, 297 Stevens, Preston, 197 Thompson, Ventulett, Stainback and Stevens, Preston S., Sr. 163, 178, 197–98 Assoc., 103 St. James Episcopal Church (Marietta), 222 Thornton, Thomas, 306 St. John’s Lutheran Church, 148 Three Up and Three Down, 105 Tight Squeeze, 97 Tower Oaks, 222 Index Town Center Park, 278, 280 West End, 44, 46–50 Trolley Car Barn, 80 West Hunter Street Baptist Church, 48 Troup-Hurt House, 77 Western and Atlantic Railroad, 11, 215, 218 Turner Broadcasting System, 114 Westview Cemetery, xvii, 50, 58, 63 Tuxedo Park, 186, 190 Wheeler, Gen. Joseph, 208, 290, 318 White, Goodrich C., 162 Underground Atlanta, 11, 15–16, 18 White Chimneys, 198 United Daughters of the Confederacy, 122, Whitehall (house), 191 304, 320 Whitehall (village), 46 universities. See colleges & universities Whitehall Tavern, 46, 50 University of Georgia, 109, 120, 224 Whitehead, Conkey Pate, 191 Whitehead Memorial Hospital, 111 Valley Road Company, 186 Whitehead Memorial Research Building, 165 Versailles Conference, 146 Wilburn, Leila Ross, 86, 94–95, 146, 297 Vickery Creek Unit (CRNRA), 264, 268, 366– Wild Horse Creek Park, 234 70 Wilkinson, James R., 163, 178 Villa Apartments, 133 Williams, Gen. Alpheus, 176 Villa Juanita, 191 Williams, Hiram, 295 Virginia-Highland, 134, 136–37 Williams, James, 63 Visscher, Emily Dolvin, 251 Williams, James B., 164 Willis, George F., 298, 300 Wagner, Thomas, 140 Willit, Col. Marinus, 304 Wagoner, Harold, 101 Wills Park, 264 Waldrop, J. L. H., 319 Windcrofte, 150, 190 Waldrop-Brown-Edwards House, 319 Winecoff, William F., 24, 128–29 Walker, Benjamin, 90 Winship, Charles R., 78 Walker, Gen. William H. T., 70, 169 Woodberry School, 130 Walker, Samuel, 90 Woodrow, Mrs. Felie, 222 Walker Memorial Park, 300 Woodruff, Emily Winship, 78, 80 Waller Park, 370 Woodruff, Robert W., 29, 42, 165 Walthall, Gen. Edward C., 169 Woolford, Cator, 145 War of 1812, 11, 289, 336 Woolford, T. Guy, 145 Ward, Gen. William T., 169 Works Progress Administration (WPA), 71, Ware, Edmund Asa, 35, 43 138 Warnock, S. D., 146 World Athletes Monument, 105 Warren, Guy L., 320 World of Coca-Cola, 25 Warren-Waldrop-Chapman-Adamson Wren’s Nest, 48. See also Harris, Joel House, 320 Chandler 396 Washington, Booker T., 120 WSB Studios, 106 Washington, George, 220, 304 Washington Seminary, 94 Young, Andrew, 11, 20, 22 Watkins, Benjamin D., 20, 22 W. C. and Sarah Bradley Foundation, 145 Zaring, John, 57 Weltner, Philip, 204 Zero Mile Post, 16, 18 Wesley Memorial Hospital. See Emory Zoo Atlanta, 71–72, 306 University Hospital West Atlanta Watershed Alliance, 52, 57 ABOUT THE AUTHORS

Ren and Helen Davis

Ren Davis is a native Atlantan and a the Atlanta Public Schools from 1980– graduate of Emory University with a 2001, before moving to the Greenfield degree in History. He earned a master’s Hebrew Academy to teach children with degree in public health from Tulane learning disabilities. She retired in 2009. University and served in the Admini - stration of Crawford Long Hospital Ren and Helen are avid walkers, hikers, (now Emory University Hospital and campers, as well as award-winning Midtown) and Emory Healthcare from photographers. They are co-authors of 1976 until his retirement in 2009. He is the companion to this guide, Georgia the author of Caring for Atlanta: A History Walks: Discovery Hikes Through the Peach of Emory Crawford Long Hospital (Wings State’s Natural and Human History. In Publishers, 2003) and a contributing 2009, they authored the Falcon Guides author to Fodor’s Cityguide Atlana, and Best Hikes Near Atlanta and Best Easy Day Fodor’s Pocket Atlanta. He is a contributor Hikes Atlanta (Globe Pequot). Their to Georgia Magazine and other historical guidebook, “Our Mark On publications. This Land”: Discovering the Civilian 397 Conservation Corps’ Legacy in America’s Helen Davis is a native of Lewistown, Parks is scheduled for publication in Pennsylvania. She received her 2011; and they are currently at work on bachelor’s degree in Home Economics, Landscape of Remembrance - Atlanta’s Family and Child Development, from Oakland Cemetery: A History in Pictures the Ohio State University and a that is planned for release by the master’s degree in education from University of Georgia Press in 2012. Georgia State University. She taught in