The Dolomites Devil’s Claw and King of the Alps A Greentours Trip Report 24th June to 3rd July 2015 Led by Paul Cardy Daily Reports and Systematic Lists by Paul Cardy Day 1 Wednesday 24th June Arrival and Journey to Claut The most notable sight on my journey from the western Alps to Venice Airport was first one Sacred Ibis, and then three more, flying across the road as I drove through Vercelli province. This African species is now very locally established here. At Marco Polo airport I soon met Debra and Matt, and Beth and John, all of whom had been spending a few days exploring the city, and we set off north, initially across the predominantly agricultural plains, the line of the Alps ahead. Even in the lowlands the vegetation was still surprisingly verdant at this season. The scenery became ever more impressive, and once we’d left the main road the verges had many flowers. Above Longarone, now in the Dolomiti Friulani, I took a short detour and we walked a quiet lane, with a fine flora, and butterflies much in evidence. There were a good number of Apollos on the wing, and many nectaring. There were also Scarce Swallowtail, Blue-spot Hairstreak, Pearly Heaths, Marbled Whites, Woodland Brown, Common Blues, and Large Skippers. Burnets were numerous, among them Zygaena transalpina and Zygaena lonicerae. Spiked Bellflowers were impressive, with Campanula persicifolia too. Broad-leaved and Dark Red Helleborines were admired, the latter numerous, and there were a number of Fragrant Orchids, some very robust. There were also a few Lesser Butterfly Orchids and a great find was several Fly Orchids in fine flower. The Teucrium montanum was attractive, and Centaurea jacea, Hieracium staticifolium and Bupthalmum salicifolium were among the composites. Peucedanum venetum was rather common and Verbascum chaixii austriacum was in flower. Among the many other plants were Linum tenuifolium, Bupleurum ranunculoides, and Valeriana wallrothii. Occasionally looking up from the great variety of flowers and insects at this first stop, the views were pretty good too! It was but a short drive to the lovely village of Claut where we settled into our pleasant rooms, the hotel conveniently situated in the centre of the village, noise not being a problem though (other than the church bells!) in this tranquil area. We all enjoyed an excellent first dinner, I gave the introductory talk, and we anticipated the productive tour to come. Greentours Natural History Holidays www.greentours.co.uk 1 Day 2 Thursday 25th June Cimoliana While everyone enjoyed breakfast in the hotel, I shopped for fresh picnic supplies and bread in the village, an enjoyable experience with friendly shopkeepers. Under clear blue skies we drove the short distance to the neighbouring village, Cimolais, and from there headed up the Cimoliana valley. The first stop, amid Black Pines and Salix waldsteiniana, had a few Cyclamen purpurascens and Orobanche gracilis was in good bloom. Campanula scheuchzeri, Thesium rostratum, and Prunella grandiflora were here, and there were some fine Fragrant Orchids as well as a couple more Fly Orchids. The endemic Euphorbia triflora kerneri was noted too. Several butterflies were already on the wing, and included Arran Brown, Pearly Heath, and Woodland Brown. A short walk took us to cliffs that supported many fine Devil’s Claws, in perfect flower, one of the plant highlights of the Dolomites. They really were in superb form this year, with many in easy reach. The same cliffs had Spiraea decumbens, leaves of Potentilla caulescens, and Chondrilla chondrilloides flowered abundantly beside the track. The Rhododendron hirsutum was much admired. The scenery was sublime, and more and more butterflies were taking to the wing as the day warmed up. There were many Black-veined Whites, as well as Pearl-bordered Fritillary and Large Skipper. Hungarian Gliders were associated with their foodplant, the Spiraea. The rocks supported a good selection of ferns including Limestone Fern, Holly Fern, Green Spleenwort, Wall-rue, Maidenhair Spleenwort and Brittle-bladder Fern. Next was a knapweed with two colour forms, Centaurea dichroantha, purple and yellow. Large Chequered Skipper was as always a great find at a reliable site for the species. A little further along we found more of the very special and rather surprising endemic Hemerocallis lilio-asphodelus, a large yellow day lily that looks rather incongrous here. Also on the cliffs here were Silene pusilla and Yellow Archangel. Entering fine forest, Lesser Butterfly Orchids flowered, and Bird’s-nest Orchid was found. Our drive now took us across a wide stony dry river bed. It was already lunch time and whilst we enjoyed the large picnic selection, species such as Saxifraga squarrosa, Barberry, Laserpitium peucedanoides, and the leaves of Willow Gentian, were found. Reaching the end of the road we took a short walk and found the attractive Dianthus sternbergii in flower. In the shade of a cliff grew the diminutive Hymenolobus pauciflorus and Aconitum lycoctonum was in bloom. Some fine Bladder Gentians were found nearby. Unfortunately this year all the Lady’s Slippers had already gone over. We found many, but extensive searching failed to locate any still in bloom. The distinctive pink Crepis froelichiana dinarica, an endemic subspecies, was here, and Interrupted Clubmoss and Stag’s Horn Clubmoss were under the trees. Other notable plants today included Silene saxifraga, Cerastium subtriflorum, and Round-leaved Wintergreen. Lower down another Hemerocallis site also had the specialities Arenaria huteri and Silene veselskyi. Greentours Natural History Holidays www.greentours.co.uk 2 Day 3 Friday 26th June Claut and Transfer to Rocca Pietore Another superb day weather wise, with a wealth of things seen at a great selection of sites. After breakfast we checked out of the hotel, and headed above the village in search of some of the dinosaur footprints that the area is famous for. The drive itself was quite an experience, first along a beautiful narrow valley, then climbing up a long series of hairpins through fine beech woodland. At the end of the forested track we parked and set out on foot amid fine scenery. We had the area all to ourselves, the owner of the isolated refuge being the only other person we saw. The meadows were flowery, and Aethionema saxatile was a surprising addition to the list. Soon we reached the river bed where were three quite clear bipedal dinosaur prints on a large boulder, highlighted on a recently positioned notice board. Here was more Devil’s Claws in flower, and a number of Bird’s Nest Orchids. There was much Green Spleenwort at the forest edge, and Martagon Lily in flower. On the open grassland among the Orobanche gracilis were two striking Orobanche flava. In such fine weather, Arran Brown, Dark Green Fritillary, Painted Lady, Black-veined White, and Pearl- bordered Fritillary were on the wing. Crested Tits were active in the conifers. Back along the entrance road Lomelosia graminifolia, a rather special scabious, was in beautiful flower, and Genista radiata was here. A broomrape here was perhaps Orobanche teucrii, as the adjacent Teucrium montanum was the only likely host. This species is not given for Pordenone Province in Flora Alpina but there is no reason it was not this. The remainder of the morning was spent along the Settimana river, another beautiful limestone valley. Of interest was the orange-flowered Senecio abrotanifolius, several of which were seen, although rather more yellow here than they are further east. A wet flush had various sedges, and the larvae of Fire Salamanders. A recently emerged Silver-washed Fritillary was photographed, Golden-ringed Dragonfly was impressive, and Small Red Damselfly and Dingy Skipper were flying. Among plants typical of the habitat were Marsh Thistle, Broad-leaved Cotton Grass, and Blysmus compressus. Further up the valley I set out lunch on some convenient picnic tables. Flowering on the river gravels here were fine Saxifraga squarrosa and Saxifraga aizoides. Carex sylvatica was in attractive flower under the trees, and we found Huperzia selago. Early afternoon saw us heading west, down to Longarone, and into the Dolomiti Bellunesi, which would be our base for the remainder of the tour. At San Osvaldo pass I was very pleased to re-locate the rare Malaxis monophyllos, at a site we’d discovered some years previously. This diminutive green flowered orchid was a challenge to find in the lush meadow here. Campanula spicata became rather common on the roadsides. Near the village of Dont were some fine Marsh Helleborines on the roadside, and Tetragonolobus maritimus. The Dactylorhiza lapponica had gone over but Pinguicula vulgaris was in flower. A stop at Passo Duran had a floriferous marshy slope with many marsh orchids, and abundant Globe Flowers. There were many new plants here in this fine habitat, such as Senecio alpestris, Crepis aurea, Geum rivale, Dactylorhiza alpestris, Epilobium alpestre, Ligusticum mutellinoides, Polygonum viviparum, and Veratrum viride. Carex paniculata tussocks characterised the wet flushes at the bottom of the slope, and other sedges here were Carex nigra, Carex panicea, Carex davalliana, Carex flacca, Carex lepidocarpa, and Carex rostrata. Greentours Natural History Holidays www.greentours.co.uk 3 Among other butterflies today were Swallowtail, Silver-studded Blue, Large Wall Brown, and Oberthur’s Grizzled Skipper. I negotiated the next stretch of this narrow road, amazingly busy with motorbikes today, and we headed down to the valley. We continued to our hotel, and there settled in to the very pleasant rooms that would be our home for the remainder of the tour. We enjoyed an excellent dinner, a traditional menu this evening, with substantial amounts of some six hearty courses. Day 4 Saturday 27th June Passo di Giau The hotel breakfast was a fine selection.