Learning Academy . ANCIENT TO MODERN

27 September 2018 – 11 July 2019 Course Director (Thursdays, over three terms) Jennifer Wearden was Senior Curator 11.10–15.30 of Textiles in the Department of Furniture, Textiles & Fashion until (Each term includes optional gallery talks, 2005. With experience of the commencing at 10.00 and repeated at 15.30) industry in Lancashire and 28 years working with the textile collection In our throw-away world where dress in the V&A, she has devised and run and furnishings quickly go out of highly successful courses on textiles fashion and are easily replaced, they and dress for the Museum. She has co- are often seen as transient accessories authored several popular V&A books to our lives but throughout history including Samplers (1999), Ottoman textiles were the most obvious (2001), Dress in Detail from expression of our personal values. around the World (2002), Oriental Lustrous , crisp , soft wool Carpets and their Techniques (2003) and ‘ and brightly coloured cotton clothe Iranian Textiles (2010). our bodies and decorate our homes. Although patterned textiles are the most intimate form of decorative art Other Lecturers because we wear them next to our Dr Susan Kay-Williams, Royal School of skin, how well do we know them? YEAR COURSE Dr Gale Owen-Crocker, University of Manchester P R O G R A M M E Become familiar with textiles by learning about techniques and designs Dr Amandine Mérat, British Museum 2018–19 from around the world and exploring Dr Wolf Burchard, National Trust how they have been used in Europe to produce an infinite variety of fabrics Dr Philip Sykas, Manchester School of Art and patterns. See the different ways in Fiona Kerlogue, Horniman Museum which textiles can be studied and learn Dr Maria Hayward, Southampton University about the many skills required to create the sumptuous textiles in the V&A, Lisa Monnas, independent textile historian from enormous tapestries to webs Sue Pritchard, Royal Museums Greenwich of , from glittering embroidery to Mary Schoeser (Hon. Senior Research Fellow, muted tweeds. V&A) Helen Persson, Stiftelsen Nordiska Museet, Stockholm V&A Curators. Anna Jackson, Sau Fong Chan, Dr Susan North and Dr Lesley Miller

Wandle, Furnishing fabric, Indigo-discharged and Fashioned from Nature block-printed cotton, , England, ca. 1884 21 April 2018 – 27 January 2019

1 2 Autumn Term Programme & Dates 27 September 25 October 22 November Thursdays, 27 September – 13 Textile Materials 11.10 Early Indian Textiles Dr Steven Cohen The Middle Ages (Part 2) December 2018 10.45 Introduction to the course 12.30 Byzantine Textiles Jennifer Wearden 11.10 Textile Fragments from the South Jennifer Wearden of Europe Jennifer Wearden The World up to 1600 14.30 Early Islamic Textiles Jennifer Wearden 11.10 Trees, Grass, Seeds and Minerals 12.30 Trading in Fur in the Early Middle Ages Textiles are very fragile, even the Jennifer Wearden Jennifer Wearden sturdiest are vulnerable to wear 1 November 12.30 Skin, Fur and Feathers Jennifer Wearden 14.30 Textiles and in London and tear, to damage by insects, by 11.10 Textiles in Pharaonic Egypt 1150-1450 Frances Pritchard dampness, even by the light we need 14.30 Animal Fibres Jennifer Wearden Dr Amandine Mérat to see them. They fade and rot, and 12.30 Textile fragments from the Far North although they may have been fabrics 29 November of great beauty they do not last 4 October Jennifer Wearden 10.00 Gallery Talk: Tapestries and there is nothing remaining to Textile Techniques 14.30 Medieval Tapestry Jennifer Wearden demonstrate the textile skills of our 11.10 Church Vestments Jennifer Wearden 11.10 Spinning and Looping Jennifer Wearden very ancient ancestors. However, with 12.15 Opus Anglicanum Jennifer Wearden the development of archaeology and 12.30 Dyeing (part 1) Dr Susan Kay-Williams 8 November 14.30 Early Italian Woven Lisa Monnas where favourable conditions have 14.30 Introduction to Weaving (part 1) 10.00 Gallery Talk: Early Textiles allowed textiles to survive, albeit as Jennifer Wearden 15.30 Gallery Talk. Tapestries fragments, we are getting glimpses of 11.10 Roman Textiles Dr Amandine Mérat what was being woven and worn in 12.30 Between Court and City. Tapestries more recent times. 11 October of the Burgundian Dominions 1363-1477 Dr 6 December Katherine Wilson Early Textiles The Renaissance 14.30 Late Antique Egyptian Textiles Dr 11.10 Introduction to Weaving (part 2) and 11.10 Cloth of Gold and Renaissance The first term begins with an Amandine Mérat introduction to fibres, structures ways to study textiles Jennifer Wearden Lisa Monnas 15.30 Gallery Talk. Early Textiles and dyes and, with this foundation 12.30 Early Textiles and What We Learn from 12.30 Textiles in Renaissance Paintings in place, it explores what is known Them Dr Margarita Gleba Lisa Monnas about archaeological textiles from 14.30 Prehistoric Textiles Jennifer Wearden 14.30 Renaissance Transformations. Italian Central Asia and around the Eastern 15 November Textiles and Interiors Dr Jane Bridgeman Mediterranean. These textiles were The Middle Ages (Part I) of great importance and were traded 18 October 11.10 across the Classical world, setting Professor Gale R Owen-Crocker 13 December the stage for a theme which will be The Silk Road 12.30 Textile Tasks 10.00 Gallery Talk: Medieval and explored through the rest of the course. 11.10 The Silk Road Dr Susan Whitfield Professor Gale R Owen-Crocker Renaissance Textiles how technologies and designs spread 12.30 Silk Moths Jane Deane around the globe. Moving into the 14.30 Cloth in England’s Later Medieval Trade 11.10 An Introduction to Ming Textiles. Middle Ages, our knowledge of textiles 14.30 Stein Textiles from Central Asia Professor Wendy Childs Their History and Design Jacqueline Simcox Helen Persson increases from our study of documents, 12.15 Pre-Hispanic Textiles in South America paintings and actual pieces and we Helen Wolfe see a second theme emerging, how 14.30 Textiles and the Cut of Clothes textiles were used to express status Jennifer Wearden and prestige. 15.30 Gallery Talk. Medieval and Renaissance Textiles

3 4 Spring Term Programme & Dates. 10 January 7 February 7 March Thursdays, 10 January – 4 April 2019 16th and 17th Century England 11.10 The Eye of the Needle. 17th century English 10.00 Gallery Talk: 18th Century Silks Embroidery Dr Mary Brooks 11.10 Textiles and Tournaments under the Tudor 11.10 Lace Jennifer Wearden Kings Professor Maria Hayward 12.30 Baroque Tapestries Jennifer Wearden The Age of Exploitation. 1500–1800 12.30 Textiles, Clothing, Cleanliness and Health 12.30 Textiles and Dress at the Tudor Court 14.30 Cotton in the 18th century Dr Susan North This term covers three centuries during Professor Maria Hayward Dr Georgio Riello which European knowledge of the 14.30 Dyeing (part 2) Dr Susan Kay-Williams 14.30 Sericulture in England. The English world expanded and empires rose and 15.30 Gallery Talk: 18th century silks Climate for French Perfidy’Dr Susan Whitfield prospered. The major themes of this 14 February term are exploration and exploitation, 18th Century 14 March 17 January with growing awareness of new natural 11.10 Crewel work and Chinoiserie Printing Textiles resources, new techniques and new The 16th and 17th Centuries Jennifer Wearden designs. England began to play a major 11.10 Trading Textiles around the World 11.10 Embroidered with Woodbine and 12.30 Qing Textiles Jacqueline Simcox role, developing a remarkable artistic Jennifer Wearden Eglantine - Elizabethan Textile Furnishings personality beautifully expressed in 14.30 Dr Susan North Dr Gillian White 12.30 Block-Printing and William Kilburn its embroidery. It was not averse to Jennifer Wearden adopting ideas from other cultures or 12.30 Suleyman the Magnificent and Ottoman 21 February poaching skilled workmen from other Textiles Jennifer Wearden 14.30 Plate-printing, Roller-printing, 18th Century Discharge-printing Jennifer Wearden countries. It was a period of great 14.30 The effects of the Reformation on the rivalry between countries for trade Nature of Domestic Decoration and Furnishings 10.00 Gallery Talk: 17th Century Embroidery and for the control of foreign lands. Dr Tara Hamling 21 March It was also a period of great social and 11.10 The Painted Designs of James Leman and Anna Maria Garthwaite Jennifer Wearden 10.00 Gallery Talk: Printed Textiles economic change. The introduction of 24 January cotton in the eighteenth century and 12.30 18th century French Silks Dr Lesley Miller 11.10 Textiles in Colonial America Carpets and Chintz Jennifer Wearden the development of textile printing 14.30 Huguenots and Spitalfield Silks revolutionised the use of patterned 11.10 Eastern Carpets in Western Paintings Mary Schoeser 12.30 Resist-dyeing in India. Bandhana and Ikat textiles, making them no longer the Jennifer Wearden Rosemary Crill preserve of the super-rich. We begin to 15.30 Gallery Talk: 17th Century Embroidery 12.30 Carpet Knotting and Design 14.30 Embroidered Samplers Jennifer Wearden know more about the textile possessions Jennifer Wearden of moderately affluent people and more 28 February 15.30 Gallery Talk: Printed Textiles 14.30 Indian Chintz Rosemary Crill about domestic needlework, not only 18th Century embroidery but patchwork and , 28 March 10.00 Gallery Talk: 18th Century Silks and we begin to see the effects of the 31 January 11.10 Patchwork Sue Prichard Industrial Revolution. 11.10 Barbara Johnson’s Album Jennifer Wearden 10.00 Gallery Talk: Carpets 12.30 Greek Island Embroidery Jennifer Wearden 12.30 Fabrics of 18th Century Fashion 11.10 Safavid Iran Dr Moya Carey Dr Susan North 14.30 Indigo. A Personal Journey 12.30 Textiles in Sultanate and Mughal India Jenny Balfour Paul 14.30 Foundling Textiles Jennifer Wearden Dr Steven Cohen 15.30 Gallery Talk: 18th Century Silks 14.30 The Weaving of Power. Charles Le Brun 4 April and the Gobelins Tapestry Manufactory 11.10 Mexican and Guatemalan Textiles Dr Wolf Burchard Chloë Sayer 15.30 Gallery Talk: Carpets 12.30 The Textile Revolution Dr Gillian Cookson 14.30 Kashmir Shawls in the West Rosemary Crill

5 6 Summer Term Programme & Dates. 2 May 30 May 27 June Thursdays, 2 May – 11 July 2019 The 19th century Europe and Beyond. Part 1 Revolutionary and Traditional Textiles 11.10 The Neo-Classical Revolution in Textiles 10.00 Gallery Talk: The 19th Century (part 2) 11.10 The Fabric of Pop tbc and Dress Jennifer Wearden The Age of Mastery. 1750–the present 11.10 The Islamic World Jennifer Wearden 12.15 Modern Techniques in Textile Production 12.30 Muslin and Whitework Jennifer Wearden Jennifer Wearden 12.30 Romanticism and European ‘Peasant’ The final term goes back to the middle 14.30 Manufacturers’ and Merchants’ Pattern Textiles Jennifer Wearden 14.30 Maison Lesage. Couture Embroidery Books Dr Philip Sykas Jennifer Wearden of the 18th century, beginning with 14.30 African Textiles tbc the Industrial Revolution and the mass-production of textiles and then 15.30 Gallery Talk: The 19th Century (part 2) 9 May 4 July considering how several influential designers reacted against it, leading New Movements Designers 6 June to the Arts and Crafts Movement and 11.10 Gothic Revival Mary Schoeser 11.10 Designing Carpets for the World John Bain . A constant supply of Beyond Europe. Part 2 12.30 William Morris and the Arts & Crafts 12.30 Designing Textiles for Liberty new textile designs were required to 11.10 South East Asian Textiles in the V&A Movement in Britain Dr Jennifer Harris Emma Mawston meet the expectations of a growing Sau Fong Chan consumer society and in their patterns 14.30 The Arts & Crafts Movement on the 14.30 Artist and Designer Ptolemy Mann 12.30 Batik in Java and Sumatra we can trace how Europe was changing Continent Dr Jennifer Harris Dr Fiona Kerlogue socially, scientifically and politically up to the outbreak of the Second World 14.30 The Board of Trade Design Registers. 1839- 11 July 16 May War. Against this background we see 1991 Dr Dinah Eastop The Last Word in Textiles how ethnographic studies brought Eastern Influences and Art Nouveau 11.10 Tapestries Jennifer Wearden non-European textile traditions to the 13 June 10.00 Gallery Talk: The 19th Century (part 1) attention of designers and how this Britain 12.30 Echoes of the Past influenced and enriched commercial and 11.10 Art Nouveau Textiles Dr Clare Rose Jan Beaney and Jean Littlejohn 11.10 British Craft Weavers and Printers craft production. Modern manufacturing 12.30 Japanese Textiles Anna Jackson Mary Schoeser 14.30 Humphries Silk Weaving processes have favoured printing, but Richard Humphries hand-woven and embroidered textiles 14.30 Textiles Zoe Hendon 12.30 The Festival of Britain, and ‘50s design Mary Schoeser and supremely skilled craftsmen have 15.30 Gallery Talk: The 19th Century (part 1) ensured that some textiles remain true 14.30 The Needlework Development Scheme

works of art. Jennifer Wearden 23 May

Changing Times 20 June 11.10 Japanese Country Textiles Anna Jackson Britain in the 1950s 12.30 Furnishings. 1850-1930 Jennifer W earden 11.10 Zika Ascher and Sue Prichard 14.30 Fashions and Textiles. 1900-1939 12.30 Textiles and Horrockses Fashions Jennifer Wearden Dr Christine Boydell 14.30 Artist Textiles tbc

7 8 The V&A reserves the right to alter Booking and Further Information the programme at short notice if All courses are listed and available to circumstances make it necessary. book online at vam.ac.uk/courses from If you are booking a particular day 14 May 2018 at 9am. Our Bookings please confirm the programme of team are also available by calling 020 the day with the V&A booking office 7942 2000 from 9.00 – 17.30, Monday a few days in advance. – Sunday to take bookings or answer Course Fees questions. £1992 per year, £1873 Senior, Subject to availability, tickets to attend £1600 Disabled Person/Jobseeker an individual term will be made available twelve weeks before the term starts. £845 per term, £794 Senior, Day tickets will be made available two £640 Disabled Person/Jobseeker weeks before the start of each term. £75 per day, £70 Senior, Please note the full fee applies to £57 Disabled Person/Jobseeker V&A Members, patrons, and students. External visits may incur Discounts are available for seniors, additional costs. jobseekers and disabled people. A carer may accompany a registered disabled course student for free. This Year Course does not Refunds are only given in cases of have a Certificate Option. extenuating circumstances such as illness or other personal difficulty and are not guaranteed. Any refund must be applied for no less than fourteen days after an event. If approved, 90% of the price of the ticket will be refunded. 10% will be retained for administration costs.

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