Learning Academy TEXTILES. ANCIENT TO MODERN 27 September 2018 – 11 July 2019 Course Director (Thursdays, over three terms) Jennifer Wearden was Senior Curator 11.10–15.30 of Textiles in the Department of Furniture, Textiles & Fashion until (Each term includes optional gallery talks, 2005. With experience of the textile commencing at 10.00 and repeated at 15.30) industry in Lancashire and 28 years working with the textile collection In our throw-away world where dress in the V&A, she has devised and run and furnishings quickly go out of highly successful courses on textiles fashion and are easily replaced, they and dress for the Museum. She has co- are often seen as transient accessories authored several popular V&A books to our lives but throughout history including Samplers (1999), Ottoman textiles were the most obvious Embroidery (2001), Dress in Detail from expression of our personal values. around the World (2002), Oriental Lustrous silk, crisp linen, soft wool Carpets and their Techniques (2003) and ‘ and brightly coloured cotton clothe Iranian Textiles (2010). our bodies and decorate our homes. Although patterned textiles are the most intimate form of decorative art Other Lecturers because we wear them next to our Dr Susan Kay-Williams, Royal School of skin, how well do we know them? Needlework YEAR COURSE Dr Gale Owen-Crocker, University of Manchester P R O G R A M M E Become familiar with textiles by learning about techniques and designs Dr Amandine Mérat, British Museum 2018–19 from around the world and exploring Dr Wolf Burchard, National Trust how they have been used in Europe to produce an infinite variety of fabrics Dr Philip Sykas, Manchester School of Art and patterns. See the different ways in Fiona Kerlogue, Horniman Museum which textiles can be studied and learn Dr Maria Hayward, Southampton University about the many skills required to create the sumptuous textiles in the V&A, Lisa Monnas, independent textile historian from enormous tapestries to webs Sue Pritchard, Royal Museums Greenwich of lace, from glittering embroidery to Mary Schoeser (Hon. Senior Research Fellow, muted tweeds. V&A) Helen Persson, Stiftelsen Nordiska Museet, Stockholm V&A Curators. Anna Jackson, Sau Fong Chan, Dr Susan North and Dr Lesley Miller Wandle, Furnishing fabric, Indigo-discharged and Fashioned from Nature block-printed cotton, William Morris, England, ca. 1884 21 April 2018 – 27 January 2019 1 2 Autumn Term Programme & Dates 27 September 25 October 22 November Thursdays, 27 September – 13 Textile Materials 11.10 Early Indian Textiles Dr Steven Cohen The Middle Ages (Part 2) December 2018 10.45 Introduction to the course 12.30 Byzantine Textiles Jennifer Wearden 11.10 Textile Fragments from the South Jennifer Wearden of Europe Jennifer Wearden The World up to 1600 14.30 Early Islamic Textiles Jennifer Wearden 11.10 Trees, Grass, Seeds and Minerals 12.30 Trading in Fur in the Early Middle Ages Textiles are very fragile, even the Jennifer Wearden Jennifer Wearden sturdiest are vulnerable to wear 1 November 12.30 Skin, Fur and Feathers Jennifer Wearden 14.30 Textiles and Clothing in London and tear, to damage by insects, by 11.10 Textiles in Pharaonic Egypt 1150-1450 Frances Pritchard dampness, even by the light we need 14.30 Animal Fibres Jennifer Wearden Dr Amandine Mérat to see them. They fade and rot, and 12.30 Textile fragments from the Far North although they may have been fabrics 29 November of great beauty they do not last 4 October Jennifer Wearden 10.00 Gallery Talk: Tapestries and there is nothing remaining to Textile Techniques 14.30 Medieval Tapestry Jennifer Wearden demonstrate the textile skills of our 11.10 Church Vestments Jennifer Wearden 11.10 Spinning and Looping Jennifer Wearden very ancient ancestors. However, with 12.15 Opus Anglicanum Jennifer Wearden the development of archaeology and 12.30 Dyeing (part 1) Dr Susan Kay-Williams 8 November 14.30 Early Italian Woven Silks Lisa Monnas where favourable conditions have 14.30 Introduction to Weaving (part 1) 10.00 Gallery Talk: Early Textiles allowed textiles to survive, albeit as Jennifer Wearden 15.30 Gallery Talk. Tapestries fragments, we are getting glimpses of 11.10 Roman Textiles Dr Amandine Mérat what was being woven and worn in 12.30 Between Court and City. Tapestries more recent times. 11 October of the Burgundian Dominions 1363-1477 Dr 6 December Katherine Wilson Early Textiles The Renaissance 14.30 Late Antique Egyptian Textiles Dr 11.10 Introduction to Weaving (part 2) and 11.10 Cloth of Gold and Renaissance Velvets The first term begins with an Amandine Mérat introduction to fibres, structures ways to study textiles Jennifer Wearden Lisa Monnas 15.30 Gallery Talk. Early Textiles and dyes and, with this foundation 12.30 Early Textiles and What We Learn from 12.30 Textiles in Renaissance Paintings in place, it explores what is known Them Dr Margarita Gleba Lisa Monnas about archaeological textiles from 14.30 Prehistoric Textiles Jennifer Wearden 14.30 Renaissance Transformations. Italian Central Asia and around the Eastern 15 November Textiles and Interiors Dr Jane Bridgeman Mediterranean. These textiles were The Middle Ages (Part I) of great importance and were traded 18 October 11.10 Bayeux Tapestry across the Classical world, setting Professor Gale R Owen-Crocker 13 December the stage for a theme which will be The Silk Road 12.30 Textile Tasks 10.00 Gallery Talk: Medieval and explored through the rest of the course. 11.10 The Silk Road Dr Susan Whitfield Professor Gale R Owen-Crocker Renaissance Textiles how technologies and designs spread 12.30 Silk Moths Jane Deane around the globe. Moving into the 14.30 Cloth in England’s Later Medieval Trade 11.10 An Introduction to Ming Textiles. Middle Ages, our knowledge of textiles 14.30 Stein Textiles from Central Asia Professor Wendy Childs Their History and Design Jacqueline Simcox Helen Persson increases from our study of documents, 12.15 Pre-Hispanic Textiles in South America paintings and actual pieces and we Helen Wolfe see a second theme emerging, how 14.30 Textiles and the Cut of Clothes textiles were used to express status Jennifer Wearden and prestige. 15.30 Gallery Talk. Medieval and Renaissance Textiles 3 4 Spring Term Programme & Dates. 10 January 7 February 7 March Thursdays, 10 January – 4 April 2019 16th and 17th Century England 11.10 The Eye of the Needle. 17th century English 10.00 Gallery Talk: 18th Century Silks Embroidery Dr Mary Brooks 11.10 Textiles and Tournaments under the Tudor 11.10 Lace Jennifer Wearden Kings Professor Maria Hayward 12.30 Baroque Tapestries Jennifer Wearden The Age of Exploitation. 1500–1800 12.30 Textiles, Clothing, Cleanliness and Health 12.30 Textiles and Dress at the Tudor Court 14.30 Cotton in the 18th century Dr Susan North This term covers three centuries during Professor Maria Hayward Dr Georgio Riello which European knowledge of the 14.30 Dyeing (part 2) Dr Susan Kay-Williams 14.30 Sericulture in England. The English world expanded and empires rose and 15.30 Gallery Talk: 18th century silks Climate for French Perfidy’ Dr Susan Whitfield prospered. The major themes of this 14 February term are exploration and exploitation, 18th Century 14 March 17 January with growing awareness of new natural 11.10 Crewel work and Chinoiserie Printing Textiles resources, new techniques and new The 16th and 17th Centuries Jennifer Wearden designs. England began to play a major 11.10 Trading Textiles around the World 11.10 Embroidered with Woodbine and 12.30 Qing Textiles Jacqueline Simcox role, developing a remarkable artistic Jennifer Wearden Eglantine - Elizabethan Textile Furnishings personality beautifully expressed in 14.30 Knitting Dr Susan North Dr Gillian White 12.30 Block-Printing and William Kilburn its embroidery. It was not averse to Jennifer Wearden adopting ideas from other cultures or 12.30 Suleyman the Magnificent and Ottoman 21 February poaching skilled workmen from other Textiles Jennifer Wearden 14.30 Plate-printing, Roller-printing, 18th Century Discharge-printing Jennifer Wearden countries. It was a period of great 14.30 The effects of the Reformation on the rivalry between countries for trade Nature of Domestic Decoration and Furnishings 10.00 Gallery Talk: 17th Century Embroidery and for the control of foreign lands. Dr Tara Hamling 21 March It was also a period of great social and 11.10 The Painted Designs of James Leman and Anna Maria Garthwaite Jennifer Wearden 10.00 Gallery Talk: Printed Textiles economic change. The introduction of 24 January cotton in the eighteenth century and 12.30 18th century French Silks Dr Lesley Miller 11.10 Textiles in Colonial America Carpets and Chintz Jennifer Wearden the development of textile printing 14.30 Huguenots and Spitalfield Silks revolutionised the use of patterned 11.10 Eastern Carpets in Western Paintings Mary Schoeser 12.30 Resist-dyeing in India. Bandhana and Ikat textiles, making them no longer the Jennifer Wearden Rosemary Crill preserve of the super-rich. We begin to 15.30 Gallery Talk: 17th Century Embroidery 12.30 Carpet Knotting and Design 14.30 Embroidered Samplers Jennifer Wearden know more about the textile possessions Jennifer Wearden of moderately affluent people and more 28 February 15.30 Gallery Talk: Printed Textiles 14.30 Indian Chintz Rosemary Crill about domestic needlework, not only 18th Century embroidery but patchwork and quilting, 28 March 10.00 Gallery Talk: 18th Century Silks and we begin to see the effects of the 31 January 11.10 Patchwork Sue Prichard Industrial Revolution. 11.10 Barbara Johnson’s Album Jennifer Wearden 10.00 Gallery Talk: Carpets 12.30 Greek Island Embroidery Jennifer Wearden 12.30 Fabrics of 18th Century Fashion 11.10 Safavid Iran Dr Moya Carey Dr Susan North 14.30 Indigo.