Issue No. 213 Friday, September 23 - Thursday, October 06, 2016 ORDER DELIVERY TO Čukarica Slobodan Bitef YOUR DOOR +381 11 4030 303 residents fear Georgiev: shows no [email protected] - ISSN 1820-8339 1 ‘toxic smoke’ People can be signs of BELGRADE INSIGHT IS PUBLISHED BY 0 1 from tyre- killed in different slowing in burning ways 50th year Page 5 Page 9 Page 13 9 7 7 1 8 2 0 8 3 3 0 0 0 Even when the Democrats longas continue to likely is This also are negotiations Drawn-out Surely the situation is urgent Sanctions Many of us who have experi - We feel in-the-know because bia has shown us that (a.) no single no (a.) that us shown has bia party or coalition will ever gain the governa - form to required majority negotiations political (b.) and ment, will never be quickly concluded. achieved their surprising result at last month’s general election, quickly it became clear that the - re sult was actually more-or-less the result election other every as same in Serbia, i.e. inconclusive. as Serbia’s politicians form new political parties every time disagree with they their current party - reg 342 currently are (there leader political parties in Serbia). istered the norm. One Ambassador Belgrade-based recently told me he was also alarmed by the distinct lack of urgency among politicians. Serbian “The country is standstill at and a I don’t understand their logic. If they are so eager to progress towards the EU and en - theycome how investors, courage go home at 5pm sharp and don’t work weekends?” overtime. little a warrant to enough EDITOR’S WORD Predictability Political By Mark R. Pullen elections Serbian numerous enced rate ourselves as pundits when it comes to predicting election - re sults and post-election moves. our experience of elections in Ser

Opposition mulls joining deadline - - - forces in Belgrade elections loomsNEWS for Serbia A proposal to run a NEWS joint candidate for over gas

Belgrade mayor in “The situation in the party seems “Dacic will eventually side with Nikolic agreed: “The question is Fearing they might not cross the Pensioners leader, Jovan Krkoba - The reported price is the post of In addition, the Socialists are bar Tadic has denied talk of horse- At the same time, Dacic seems re - reach an agreement “If we don’t Source: Balkan Insight (www.balkaninsight.com) Balkan Insight (www.balkaninsight.com) Source: the next city elec- company party over which way to turn. extremely complicated, as we try to convince the few remaining lag - gards that we need to move out of one Socialist shadow,” Milosevic’s Party official complained. in a bid to guide his party into Tadic the European mainstream, but much of the membership and many offi - cials may oppose that move.” will the party split or ‘old- back down,” he noted. timers’ threshold to enter parlia - 5-per-cent ment, the Socialists teamed up with Association of Pensioners and the the led by business - United Serbia Party, man Dragan Markovic “Palma”. bic, Palma and Dacic are all pushing for a deal with the Democrats. of deputy PM, with a brief in charge security for the Socialist leader. gaining for other ministries, includ - ing capital investments, Kosovo and education, Belgrade media reported. trading with the Socialists, maintain - ing that ministries would go only to those committed to working for the “strategic goal”. government’s negotiations with luctant to call off the nationalists. with the DSS and Radicals, par ty leadership will decide on future steps”, Dacic announced, following par new country’s of session first the liament on Wednesday. tions could be the After missing best chance for the page 10 embattled opposi- a deadline to tion to challenge the ‘unbundle’

dominance of the Srbijagas, Serbia hile the football world watch - es events unfold at the Euro - However, a strong current also However, Mihajlo Markovic, a founder of Markovic, a prominent supporter Some younger Socialist officials

ruling party, experts Neighbourhood Matters faces extinction unless it changes. flows in the opposite direction, led by party veterans enraged the Tadic. prospect of a deal with recently warned of a crisis the party, if Dacic opts for the pro-European “nat - bloc, abandoning the Socialists’ ural” ideological partners. of Milosevic during the 1990s, is seen as representative of the “old- timers” in the party who want to stay policies, true to the former regime’s even though these almost ruined the Socialists for good. have voiced frustration over the con - tinuing impasse within their own Football Rebellion Football pean Championships in Austria and pean Championships in Switzerland, Bosnia is experiencing led by fans, play - a soccer rebellion, enraged ers and former stars who are by what they see as corrupt leaders football association of the country’s leaders. faces sanctions W Issue No. 1 / Friday, June 13, 2008 Issue No. 1 / Friday, believe. in October that Saša DRAGOJLO may impede its s all parties ponder page 5 who their candidates EU accession will be in the forth- coming elections in negotiations. Belgrade, the opposi- tion is considering conomists are warning that pro - over Serbia’s uncertainty longed “This year has been lost, from the whether to field a joint candidate in a Stevan VELJOVIĆ After eight years of stagnation, the pro-European and nation - With Nikolic believes the Socialists, led “The group of younger Socialists

A Business Insight Costs Mounting future could scare off investors, lead investors, lead future could scare off to higher inflation and jeopardise prosperity for years to come. says standpoint of economic policy,” Econom - the of Stamenkovic Stojan ics Institute in Belgrade. to Serbia’s late president, Slobodan to Serbia’s Milosevic, and reformists who want the party to become a modern Euro - pean social democrat organisation. the Socialists returned to centre stage after winning 20 of the 250 seats in elections. parliament in the May 11 alist blocs almost evenly matched, the Socialists now have the final say on the fate of country. by Ivica Dacic, will come over to if only out of a pragmatic de - Tadic, sire to ensure their political survival. gathered around Dacic seems to be adding said, Nikolic majority”, the in that these reformists believe the party bid to oust the Serbian Progressive Par- E ty, SNS, from City Hall. erbia faces the prospect of A new player in the election could sanctions from the Energy also be the civic movement “Let’s not Community on October Drown Belgrade” [Ne davimo Beograd], 14th following its failure to Friday • June 13 2008 whose popularity has grown following restructure Srbijagas, the an outcry over the controversial demo- state-owned gas utility, litions in the Savamala district. Swhich is highly dependent on Russia. “The [Energy Community] Secretariat THIS ISSUE OF Continued on page 2 The current Belgrade Mayor Siniša Mali is not likely to stay in the post for too long. Photo: Beoinfo has sent many letters to the Serbian au- Belgrade Insight IS SUPPORTED BY: IS SUPPORTED thorities but to no avail. on a new gov - ense negotiations ernment have divided the ranks “It looks as if the Socialists will Simultaneous negotiations held This divides “old-timers” loyal Socialist leader Ivica Dacic remains the Serbian kingmaker Socialist leader Ivica Dacic remains Lure of Tadic Alliance Splits Socialists Tadic Lure of government, old pro-EU While younger Socialists support joining a new, over the prospect. revolt Milosevic loyalists threaten in Belgrade By Rade Maroevic “The decision on measures against Ser- which holds of the Socialist Party, of the balance power between the blocs and has yet to announce main which side they will support. move towards a government led by the Democrats,” political analyst Mi - lan Nikolic, of the independent Cen - tre of Policy Studies, said. “But such a move might provoke deeper divi - sions and even split the party.” with the pro-European and national - ist blocs have drawn attention to a deep rift inside the Socialists. T bia will be announced officially on th14 Oc- tober in Sarajevo, and will enter into force Bulgaria’s IT boom offers immediately,” the Secretariat said. Experts say the issue of the Serbian gas provider has become a political hot potato in which the EU and Russia hold Syrian refugee new life different interests. The restructuring of Srbijagas has “In the beginning, staying in Bulgaria This is how he met many Bulgarian been an issue for years between Serbia When one 33-year-old Syrian reached was not on my mind, as I knew it was volunteers who advised him to look for and the Energy Community. Bulgaria, his only goal was to get to Western a poor country and there were no op- a job in the country. The international organisation gath- portunities here. I thought I would “I just sent my CV to some compa- ers EU countries and countries in South Europe – but Bulgaria’s ambitious software have a better chance to find a good nies and they immediately started call- East Europe around the aim of creating job in Germany,” Elias recalled in his ing me – IT or outsourcing companies, an integrated market. and outsourcing companies made him modern office in Sofia, the Bulgarian looking for people with Spanish [which Serbia has agreed to unbundle Srbi- capital. Elias speaks fluently together with jagas’s activities both legally and opera- change his mind. “It was destiny that made me stay three other languages] or Arabic,” he tionally, to have separate companies for successful career in IT and a family in here,” he added, remembering the sum- explained. supply, transmission and distribution Mariya CHERESHEVA Bulgaria. mer of 2013, when he applied for asy- “It turned out that if you are educated activities. Unbundling rules also require Like many of his fellow citizens he lum in Bulgaria. and have a certain level of English, you independent management of the trans- hen he fled Syria took the dangerous route out of his war- As the situation for the thousands can get a decent job very easily in Bul- mission system operator and of other in 2013, the now torn country to seek safety and a better of refugees who entered the country garia,” he added. activities. 33-year-old jour- life in Germany or Sweden. back then was tough - living conditions Like many other young people in Bul- As BIRN previously reported, Srbija- nalist and profes- But to his surprise, the poorest EU and services in the refugee centres in garia, Elias was hired by an outsourcing gas, which has debts of €1.2 billion but sor of literature member state, criticised for its ill treat- Bulgaria were grim - Elias started vol- company, providing support for clients wields much political influence, has EliasW Sulaiman hardly imagined that ment of refugees, has offered Elias the unteering to help the others that were all over the world. avoided restructuring for years. only three years later he would have a opportunity to build up a new life. suffering. Continued on page 8 Continued on page 7

+381 11 4030 306 [email protected] 2 BELGRADE INSIGHT, Friday, September 23 - Thursday, October 06, 2016 BELGRADE INSIGHT, Friday, September 23 - Thursday, October 06, 2016 3 SERBIA SERBIA Continued from page 1 Serbia's UN candidate wins Western media support

Those candidates that receive two or Vuk Jeremić has won important three negative votes from representa- tives of the permanent members of Secu- endorsements from respected media rity Council will cease to be candidates. Talks on the winning candidate will outlets in the UK and America - but continue after the sixth and seventh vote, so that UN member states can achieve a Portugal’s candidate is still likely to final consensus. However, Jakšić said glimpses of a con- win the top UN post, a Serbian expert sensus were already emerging around the candidate from Portugal, Antonio said. Guterres. “It looks like the permanent members Milivoje PANTOVIĆ cific commitments, which he intends to of the Security Council are gathering implement. around Guterres. I think that even Russia ays before the fifth In another opinion article, enti- will not veto his candidacy despite the vote in the UN Security tled “Who will run the UN”, published in fact that he is not from Eastern Europe, Council for the post of the Wall Street Journal on September 18th, from which, according to the unwrit- Secretary General on Jeremić was again lauded as the best per- ten rule of rotation, the next candidate September 26th, Serbia's son for the position. should come,” Jakšić said. candidate, Vuk Jeremić, "At 41, the Harvard-educated Mr He said that while Russia's favourite can- isD winning support from important West- Jeremić is young, but he was a leader of didate remained Irina Bokova from Bulgar- ern media outlets as the best candidate. the social movement that helped topple ia, Moscow could also support Guterres. Despite the praise, a foreign policy Slobodan Milošević’s dictatorship in Bel- “China, which in 2006 threatened a expert for the Serbian newspaper Poli- grade in 2000. He later served in the pro- veto if a candidate from Asia was not Božović told BIRN that the DS is willing to discuss a “one-candidate” campaign. Photo: Beta tika, Boško Jakšić, told BIRN that Jeremić Western government of Boris Tadić, who elected, did not shown any interest this would probably not be elected. in 2010 issued a historic Serbian apology time in repeating that, if the 'rule on rota- “Jeremić has achieved huge personal for the 1995 massacre at Srebrenica," the tion' is not applied,” Jakšić noted. and diplomatic success but it is question- article said. Jakšić said that it looked as if Jeremić able whether he has a chance of being The Centre for International relations and Slovak candidate Miroslav Lajcak, Opposition mulls joining elected ... He got support from the Serbian and Sustainable Development, CIRSD, Jeremić as President of the UN General Assembly in February 2013. Photo: Flickr/UN Geneva who has had a long diplomatic career, government too late for his candidacy,” based in Belgrade, of which Jeremić were joining forces to push Guterres out Jakšić remarked. is president, said it felt honoured that CIRSD’s platform,” the CIRSD wrote in a in the international community,” said of the race and re-establish the principle Britain's conservative - leaning Dai- Jeremić was winning such strong sup- statement to BIRN. CIRSD. of rotation so that a candidate from East- ly Telegraph wrote on September port from the media. It also said the cycles of votes had After the fifth vote in the Security ern Europe could be elected. forces in Belgrade th 19 that Jeremić “wants to shake up the “We are honoured that one of the most shown that Serbia has wide support. Council, a sixth round will be held in Oc- “But I do not think that they will suc- sclerotic organization” and that, unlike distinguished and influential newspa- “We have used this opportunity to pro- tober and at that vote, the five permanent ceed, since a wide consensus around the other candidates, has produced a pers [the Wall St Journal] has supported mote our country and we do believe that, members of the Security Council will cast Guterres has begun to form,” Jakšić elections detailed platform that contains 53 spe- the Serbian candidature, based on the after this, Serbia will have more respect votes. warned.

ince Belgrade is consid- thousands of people onto the street in However, the prosecution has still BIRN that they are willing to discuss a of citizens. We support usage of their ca- ered the weakened op- protests organised by “Let’s not Drown not released the results of its investiga- “one-candidate” campaign. pacities to help citizens with their con- position’s only remaining Belgrade”. tion into the affair. “It is possible to have a joint candi- crete actions but will not work directly stronghold, some experts The civic movement strongly oppos- Whatever the final outcome, Mali is not date. We are open for every discussion with any of them,” Radomir Lazović, a say that it should unite es the Waterfront project and claims expected to run for re-election. Accord- to collect a critical mass of people that member of the movement, told BIRN. behind a single candidate the deal reached with the UAE-based ing to Danas, the SNS’s favourite candi- will confront a regime under which Bel- Lazović added that the movement Sat the elections, which could be held company Eagle Hills is unconstitution- date is the former Justice Minister, Nikola grade has suffered the greatest humili- has still not decided whether to field its in mid-2017, if it wants to recover from al and not in the public interest. Selaković, a close associate of Vučić’s ation, with its peak being the Savamala own candidates in the Belgrade elec- a series of poor results in recent years. Under pressure from the media, citi- with no official position at the moment. scandal,” Božović said. tions, saying they have other priorities The daily newspaper Danas report- zens and independent bodies, Prime BIRN asked the SNS to comment on BIRN contacted the “Enough is to address. ed on September 13th that the SNS is Minister Aleksandar Vučić in June these reports but received no reply by Enough” movement, which was the “Our work on behalf of the wellbeing close to reaching a decision on merging admitted that top city officials were re- time of publication. biggest surprise in the April parliamen- of the citizens will not be stopped by presidential elections due in mid-2017 sponsible for the demolitions. tary elections in Serbia, but it did not the elections or by Siniša Mali’s resigna- with the local election in Belgrade. ‘ONE CANDIDATE’ respond to our queries by time of pub- tion,” Lazović said. The idea is to STRATEGY IS BEST lication. “For now, we are focused only on avoid facing the punishing those responsible for the opposition two The opposition Bojan Klačar, director of the Centre NEW MOVEMENT demolition of Hercegovačka Street [in years in a row for Free Elections and Democracy, VS OLD PARTIES Savamala], which has shown that the in elections has to draw up CESID, an NGO, told BIRN that the op- PM is surrounded by criminals,” he that are seen position has to prepare for a major chal- In the last elections in Belgrade in 2014, added. as crucial and a serious plan lenge to the dominance of the SNS in the SNS won 43 per cent of votes, the In spite of that, Božović, from the possibly risky the capital, which has been eroded by Democrats, DS, won 15.7 per cent, the coa- Democrats, says the option of broader for the Pro- for potential the Savamala controversy. lition around the Socialist Party of Serbia, cooperation with the movement re- gressives. “The opposition has to draw up a se- SPS, won 11.4 per cent and the Democrat- mains open. By law, elections must be held in the elections as the rious plan for potential elections as the ic Party of Serbia, DSS, 6.3 per cent. “If there is a chance, we are open to capital by 2018. Serbia is due to elect a SNS’s dominance has been jeopardised Meanwhile, the “Let’s not Drown it. The political debate has to be moved new president in mid-2017. SNS’s dominance by the controversies over Savamala Belgrade” movement drew more than away from the streets to the institu- and Belgrade Waterfront project, so this 20,000 people to its protest in June tions,” he said. DEMOLITIONS LEAVE RULING has been could be their chance,” Klačar said. 25th. By contrast, five opposition parties Until elections in the city are offi- PARTY VULNERABLE However, Klačar also said he doubts gathered only a few thousand people cially announced, both the Democrats jeopardised by the parties will succeed in leaving aside at a joint rally against alleged election and the civic movement are continu- The reputation of the Mayor of Bel- their differences and personal quarrels. fraud held on April 30th. ing their respective fights against the grade, Siniša Mali, has been damaged the controversies Nikola Tomić, editor of the weekly Since they aim for similar voters, Waterfront project, which they see as a several times in last two years - but NIN, agrees that if the scenario of dou- some experts see “Let’s not Drown Bel- paradigm of the SNS’s bad governance. most of all by the mystery demolitions over Savamala ble elections for the presidency and in grade” as direct competition to the op- This month, the Democrats pro- of residential buildings and business Belgrade duly occurs, the opposition’s position parties. posed a draft law to determine the ex- premises in the city’s Savamala dis- and Belgrade only chance lies with a joint candi- “If ‘Let’s not Drown Belgrade’ runs propriation procedures and the issue trict. date. in the elections, it will most definitely of building permits for the realisation of The nocturnal action undertaken Waterfront “If Vučić decides for that [merged affect the opposition, since it will be the Waterfront project. by masked men was widely seen as project, so this election] scenario, it will increase the directly penetrating their electorate,” Meanwhile, “Let’s not Drown Bel- a move by the authorities to clear the visibility of opposition, which only Klačar observed. grade” has scheduled another protest ground quickly for the government- could be their has any chances in Belgrade. But, to Another problem for the opposition rally for September 29th, again seeking backed Belgrade Waterfront project. achieve a good result, the opposition is the movement’s anti-establishment prosecution of those responsible for Public consternation over the dem- chance.” parties must agree on one joint candi- position, which involves refusing direct the demolitions. olitions and over the way that city date,” Tomić told BIRN. cooperation with any political parties. Resistance to the Belgrade Water- officials have since avoided accept- Balša Božović, head of the Belgrade “We cannot work with any of the par- front project is the only thing that binds ing responsibility has drawn tens of Bojan Klačar, CESID Board of the Democratic Party, told ties since they have betrayed the trust them so far. 4 BELGRADE INSIGHT, Friday, September 23 - Thursday, October 06, 2016 BELGRADE INSIGHT, Friday, September 23 - Thursday, October 06, 2016 5 BELGRADE BELGRADE

Belgrade through Drivers stressed about the eyes of a Gen Y lack of parking spaces The Serbian capital is not short An insufficient of cafés, but despite the huge popularity of coffee-drinking, a number of garages good cappuccino is hard to find. and car parks and unfulfilled prom-

Pržionica a happening, hipster place ises to build new to hang out. (Note: the sparse seating and no tables mean it’s not ideal for sitting down with a newspaper or ones have put the good book.) capital’s residents Šoljica (Trg Nikole Pašića 5)

This small coffee house is easily over- and commuters looked as just another of Belgrade’s many cafes, but, like Pržionica, it’s on edge. doing its bit to develop the special- ity coffee market in Serbia as well, offering a choice of beans from the far Ivana NIKOLIĆ Emma KRSTIĆ reaches of the world, including Brazil, El Salvador and Burundi. spend 6 to 7,000 dinars Belgrade is a city that appears to run The busy Dorćol neighbourhood is one of the most Photo: BIRN/Ivana Nikolić on coffee, and its café culture isn’t just Aviator Coffee Explorer [around €54-63] a month on problematic districts in the city. (Gundulićev venac 59a and Cara thriving, it’s rooted in society. parking only. I need my car Nikolaja II 19) every day so this is the only of these places costs too much. That is why 17 per day, but I don’t. Even if I see that some- Walking around the city centre, it’s quite amazing that on any given day This coffee oasis really appreciates a way,” says a middle-aged man a lot of people who work in Dorćol decide one is five or ten minutes over the paid time, I the innumerable coffee spots all seem good blend and its extensive menu standing“I in front of a tiny shop where he to use public transport – it is not only less simply let them go without a fine,” he says. features varieties of coffee beans to have customers, whether chitchat- works in Cara Dušana Street in the Dorćol money- and time-consuming, but also helps He explains that each of them has several ting among friends, tapping away on from exotic locations including laptops, immersed in a book or just Guatemala and Ethiopia, plus, they neighbourhood. preserve their nerves. streets in which they have to check every watching the world go by. also have a variety of contraptions on “It is expensive, but what can I do?” the However, some people, such as Milan, a car. They work eight hours per day and are A banner reading “We breathe in cancerous smoke every day.” Photo: Facebook/ Inicijativa za zdravu i bezbednu Čukaričku padinu hand demonstrate alternative ways man adds, going back into the shop as he waiter at one of the many pubs in Dorćol’s deployed all over Belgrade. of brewing the drink. But while life seems to revolve sees clients approaching. Simina Street, leave their car every morning Not far away from him, at a small kiosk at around a steaming cup of this rich brew, it has proven rather hard to find The array of plants decorating Avia- He parks his car close to the shop where quite far away from where they work. Višnjićeva Street, an elderly vendor says he a good one in this city. Well, anything tor’s two locations – in Lower Dorćol he works, paying around 40 dinars per hour Milan tells BIRN that he parks his car in sees the same cars driving round and round and Vračar – create a feeling of being that involves a shot of espresso, that in a so-called ’green zone’ to which Cara a huge space below Cara Dušana Street, in order to find a place to park. is. in a greenhouse, while there’s also a delicious spread of ‘light lunch’ op- Dušana Street belongs. which is a free parking zone. It then takes It is also frustrating for the street’s resi- Čukarica residents fear ‘toxic History plays a part in this. Having tions to choose from. A green zone is one of three parking him another 15 minutes to reach the pub. dents – some of whom are his friends. Even been under Ottoman rule for nearly zones offered by the public utility company “There is no chance I ever park my car though people living in parking zones have Koffein (Uskočka 8 and Cara four centuries, some signs of this past Parking Servis. They include up to 25,000 here,” he says, pointing to the space occu- a discount price for getting a monthly ticket, remain, such as certain shared words Dušana 65) and a preference for Turkish coffee. on-street parking places, some of which are pied by other cars in front of us in Dorćol. their spaces are sometimes occupied by But anyone after a good Italian-style This popular haunt serves up coffee time-restricted. “Buying a daily ticket isn’t worth it, why others, and then there is not much they can smoke’ from tyre-burning espresso will have to really hunt varieties from Brazil, Colombia and Apart from that, the company has also would I do that? This way I take a short walk do. Costa Rica and seems to have a loyal around, while a decent cappuccino is nine public garages and 17 car parks across and pay nothing,” Milan says. “I do not have a car, I come here by bus extremely elusive (unless you prefer fan base as I often spot regulars sitting it with the milk brutally frothed and at the tables. The larger venue at Belgrade, with a total of more than 9,000 Besides, he adds, finding a free place every day,” the man says, happy not to have Locals say toxins said to be released while burn- tions that allow something like this to activities…and to ensure the solution claims some officials have privately served in a dome-shape reminiscent Uskočka 8 comes out on top for its parking spaces. close to the pub is not possible most days. such problems. ing tyres and cables could severely happen and fail to punish it,” the wom- to the housing problem of the informal said they cannot take action against cosier interior and greater amount of Saint Sava cathedral’s roof). But this is not enough for a city of more Apart from business people walking But it is not only Dorćol that has issues affect their own and their children’s an, who asked not to be identified, says settlement’s inhabitants.” the Roma living there because NGOs of outdoor seating. It’s also worth Belgrade city than 1,351,000 people, not including com- around Dorćol and passers-by who are with a general lack of parking spaces. Some health. Others note that the district’s bitterly. Praxis then also accused residents of defending minority rights would criti- To save you the search, here are five trying the macaroons here – they’re places you’ll find top-notch coffee particularly good. muters from nearby towns and cities who enjoying afternoon coffee at some of the of the existing public garages are currently authorities water supply is close to the woods too. Delić, who has been fighting along- Čukarica of being prejudiced against the cise them. around Belgrade. work in the capital. neighbourhood’s fancy cafes and bars, under reconstruction, but there are still no Delić and other residents, alarmed by side dozens of his neighbours to put Roma population, claiming the protests Delić is now considering some- Super Natural While the whole of Belgrade has been there are quite a few Parking Servis officers, signs that new ones will be built. the possible health risks, formed the Ini- an end to the cable and tyre-burning, led “to widespread intolerance and ha- thing he never thought he would: sell- Pržionica (Dobračina 59) (Gospodar Jevremova 23) have failed to facing problems with the lack of parking checking whether cars are parked properly In the past several years, Belgrade of- tiative for a Healthy and Safe Čukarička agrees. tred” and threatened their safety. ing up altogether and looking for an Tucked down a street full of factories While best known for its fresh juices spaces for decades now, it seems that the and if their owners have paid. ficials – usually City Manager Goran Vesić tackle illegal Padina group some years back. “Here we have no problems with the In response, the Commissariat said apartment elsewhere. Anywhere but in Lower Dorćol, this micro-roastery and smoothies, Super Natural in busy Dorćol neighbourhood is one of the One of them – a young man in his twen- – have been promising brand-new public They have been warning the local [Roma] minority. We have a problem the City of Belgrade would begin plan- here. Dorćol also does a darn good coffee. opened its doors four years ago and most problematic districts in the city. ties – stands next to a car, copying its license garages, claiming they will build under- authorities, including the police, com- with the state institutions that don’t do ning the closure of the Roma camp. Until the authorities tackle the issue is representing ‘third wave’ coffee, a Its corner location becomes a busy tyre-burning movement focused on quality that meeting place on evenings towards Finding a free parking space in its narrow plate’s numbers to a small device he is hold- ground facilities for car parking below munity police, inspectors, the local their job properly,” he says. However, Jasmina Miković, deputy head on and provide the Roma families turns the drink from a commodity to the end of the week, where a crowd of streets is almost impossible, so you might ing. He has been doing this job for more than Student’s Park and Kneza Miloša Street in authority environmental protection The issue has thrown a spotlight executive director of Praxis, says noth- with better accommodation, it seems people often take over the sidewalk. an art form and baristas into gods. see the same car driving around for quite a two months now, he tells BIRN. the city. despite protests team and Belgrade City Manager Goran on the terrible living conditions the ing much has happened since late 2014 Čukarica residents will have to choose The staff here are also super friendly while before either giving up or spotting a “The average number of fines I issue is BIRN contacted both Vesić and Park- Vesić, that action needs to be taken. Roma community endure not only in – despite the promises. between relocating or continuing to This little gem has perfected the mini- and seem to take a lot of pride in mak- and health malist industrial vibe and the casual, ing sure what they serve up is of the freshly-vacated place. around ten per day,” says the man, who ing Servis for more information about the Despite this, the cable and tyre-burn- Čukarica but elsewhere in Belgrade. “The City has to react and help those live with the nocturnal tyre-burning cool staff plus the DJ set-up make highest quality. Dorćol has one public garage, Botanička didn’t want to give his name. promised garages and about problems with ing continues. Most get by in makeshift houses with- people… the [Čukarica] municipal- and smoke. bašta, and three car parks. For a lot of peo- “But it all depends on [Parking Servis offic- parking spaces in the capital, but received concerns. As more fires are set in the woods, out running water or electricity, living ity has to help them if they live in deep In a written response to BIRN, the ple, leaving a car for an entire day at some ers] issuing fines. Some of my colleagues issue no response by the time of publication. the streets around the local church be- in constant fear of eviction. poverty, and provide them with ad- Čukarica municipality said it had sent gin to empty. Protests by Čukarica residents equate living conditions, particularly out police on daily patrols several times Ivana NIKOLIĆ Jelena, a mother of two, stands out- caught the attention of Praxis, a nation- in relation to housing, water supplies, in the past, which had eventually led to side the church with other members of al human rights NGO, and in October electricity, heating, etc,” Miković told fewer fires and less smoke pollution in ORDER DELIVERY TO hirty-two-year-old the residents’ initiative. Like everyone 2014 it urged Serbia's Commissariat for BIRN. the neighbourhood. YOUR DOOR Nebojša Delić points else, she has decided to speak with the Refugees and Migration “to undertake Delić, however, is not entirely con- “Given the fact that the burning of Find your copy of +381 11 4030 303 [email protected] nervously to the woods media in the hope of putting more pres- vinced that members of the settlement waste and secondary raw materials is Belgrade Insight here: http://www.balkaninsight.com/en/ just across the road sure on the authori- are burning the materials purely for again frequent, the Čukarica munici- page/subscribe-to-belgrade-insight from his family’s house ties to take ac- heating. pality has launched an initiative to in- in the Čukarica neigh- tion. Here we have “But it is not everyone [in the settle- troduce day-long duty hours [for police Tbourhood in the south-west of the city. “My baby ment] who does it [burn waste]. I’ve officers],” it said. “Do you see, they are setting the fires was born pre- no problems heard it is only five or six… who do it,” BIRN also contacted the community now,” Delić says. “Tonight at around maturely and Delić says. police and the office of Belgrade City LAZAR LUX APARTMENTS HOTEL EXCELSIOR HOTEL JUMP INN TOURIST ORGANISATION OF SERBIA THE BRITISH INTERNATIONAL 11pm you won’t be able to open the win- still doesn’t He believes that some members Manager Vesić for responses to the Address: Stjepana Ljubiše 31 Address: Kneza Miloša 5 Address: Koče Popovića 2a Address: Čika Ljubina 8 SCHOOL OF BELGRADE with the [Roma] Address: Smetanina 12 dow, let alone stand here.” have devel- of the improvised settlement are be- issues raised but did not receive a re- MONUMENT HOTEL HYATT BISTRO BAR NATIONAL FOUNDATION He says the smoke is dense, acrid and oped lungs. I minority. We ing paid to burn waste materials and sponse by the time of publication. Address: Čika Ljubina 9 Address: Milentija Popovića 5 Address: Vojvode Stepe 198 FOR DANCE RADISSON BLU OLD that the smell is overwhelming. don’t even want to think what this can Address: Kolarčeva 3 MILL HOTEL, BELGRADE The woods are home to an impro- do to her,” she says. have a problem HOTEL MOSKVA HOTEL CROWN PLAZA SKVER 44 Address: Bulevar Vojvode Misica 15 vised settlement of around 81 Roma Jelena adds she has to lock her other Požeška 44a Address: Balkanska 1 Address: Vladimira Popovića 10 Address: RESTAURANT BIZU www.radissonblu.com/hotel-belgrade families who have lived here since flee- child in her home to try and stop him with the state Address: Andre Nikolića 1-3 ing Kosovo during and after the 1999 breathing in the smoke. INTERGALACTIC DINNER HOTEL SQUARE NINE HOTEL VOZAREV RESTAURANT ĐORĐE war. Another woman interjects, insisting serbian Address: Internacionalnih brigada 22 institutions that Address: Studentski trg 9 Address: Pop Stojanova 16 CAFE CAFFE LOUNGE Address: Moravska 10 For years now, various companies there is a lack of political will to take the courses Address: Hotel Jugoslavija, Bulevar call center: 3114568 Mihajla Pupina 85A Address: Vase Pelagića 48 have been bringing old tyres, cables, bull by the horns and tackle the prob- don’t do their job CAFE SNEŽANA HOTEL LE PETIT PIAFF refrigerators and other materials to lem. www.inlingua-beograd.com Address: Knez Mihailova 50 Restaurant Mali vrabac MIXER HOUSE INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL OF BELGRADE the settlement, which are then mostly properly.” general Address: Skadarska 34 Address: Karađorđeva 46 Address: Temišvarska 19 burned overnight. ‘ROMA ARE NOT TO BLAME’ business KOLARAC All of which has left residents of academic Address: Studentski trg 5 HOTEL MERIOT PIZZERIA ALO-ALO KNJIŽARA APROPO Address: Kolarčeva 7 Čukarica, Belgrade’s second biggest “Everyone here agrees that the Roma Nebojša Delić, courses Address: Vase Čarapića 2-4 Svetozara Markovića 19a Address: Cara Lazara 10 municipality, deeply concerned that are not to blame but rather the institu- a Čukarica citizen 6 BELGRADE INSIGHT, Friday, September 23 - Thursday, October 06, 2016 BELGRADE INSIGHT, Friday, September 23 - Thursday, October 06, 2016 7 BELGRADE BUSINESS

Continued from page 1 COMMENT Sad state of public debate Sanctions deadline looms for The tradition of to those who do not share their views. Serbia over gas company Ad-hominem attacks and name calling respectful public are the order of the day. Tabloids routinely denigrate those ainly this is because debate is all but they disagree with. There was a noto- the company bosses rious case in June 2016, when Serbian and their political dead in Serbia tabloid Informer accused a swathe of overseers had no liberal activists, and even the US and wish for it to lose its EU ambassadors to Serbia, of plotting to Mmonopoly over the natural gas mar- and across the overthrow the government. ket. region, and what Last year, the same publication fea- After Serbia broke an initial dead- tured a story that was found to be false line in July 2007, it adopted a restruc- little still exists of a bizarre sex scandal involving the turing plan for Srbijagas in December current Croatian president Kolinda 2014 in agreement with the Energy is being slowly Grabar Kitarović. Community. Informer published several photos In August 2015, two new companies eroded. of a half-naked woman on its front for transport and distribution of gas page, claiming it was Grabar Kitarović. were registered, Transportgas Srbija The tabloid said the photos were taken and Distribucijagas Srbija. However, in Brussels at a time when she was al- neither has become operative. legedly having an affair with a Serbian Janez Kopač, director of the Energy diplomat. The top of the cover said: ‘18+ Community Secretariat, on March 30th World Exclusive.’ wrote for the website Energetika.net It is commonplace for someone to be that the consequences of the delays described as a traitor and conspirator in reform are lack of investment in the against the state (even some BIRN staff transmission grid and lack of competi- commonly feature on such lists). Politi- tion. cians and activists across the political He also stated that foreign traders spectrum participate in name calling, cannot gain access to the Serbian gas with almost no insult left un-hurled at market to offer cheaper gas. their opponents. IMPACT WILL BE FELT ON EU HYPERBOLE TRUMPS TRUTH MEMBERSHIP TALKS

Less dramatic but potentially more The Energy Community Secretariat insidious is the general disregard for in March said it would recommend Srđan GARČEVIĆ facts and logic in public discourse, even sanctions to its Ministerial Council if outside the usually muddy realm of po- Serbia did not complete unbundling ne of the things that litical campaigning. requirements by July 1st. I miss the most hav- Facts are not only wilfully misrep- The Secretariat has since told BIRN ing returned from the resented but often manufactured, so that the Energy Community did not UK is BBC Radio 4’s much so that it takes the valiant efforts receive any new information from Today programme. of groups like Istinomer, a website dedi- Serbia in the past several months that Today is a morning cated to fact-checking political state- might alter its decision. doseO of punchy coverage of daily top- ments, to clear the waters somewhat. The Secretariat warned that the ics spanning politics, arts and science, Instead of facts and coherent expla- This lack of respect towards the general public is sadly becoming the norm. Photo: Flickr/IAB UK measures likely to be imposed on which, for additional nerd-appeal, nations, there are superlatives: the gov- Serbia would prevent Belgrade from often features guests with opposing, ernment often labels all its own efforts prerequisite for participating in and fos- The US political system has become fact, are not too far away from beating opening the Energy chapter within Savić argues that it is also in the country’s interest to make Srbijagas more efficient. Photo: Media Centre Belgrade informed opinions on any issue dis- “historic”, while the opposition sees tering public debate. so farcically polarised that personal each other up if the opportunity aris- Serbia’s EU accession talks and might cussed. almost any government policy and Sadly, even some liberal activists in attacks rather than policy debate has es, as there is no way to find common stall the provision of EU financial with state guarantees. For several Agroživ, which went into bankruptcy Janez Kopač wrote for Energetika.net Sea through Bulgaria, Serbia, Hungary The programme’s presenters, more act as dire, even if said act is consistent Serbia often forget this and just decry become the norm in this year’s presi- ground. grants for energy projects. years now, Serbia’s government has in September 2016. that Srbijagas appeared “more than sat- and Slovenia to Italy, the EU declared or less gently, prod their guests on eve- with their own ideology and past ac- their opponents, and occasionally the dential race – with evermore fanciful One way for us to make sure that “The decision will invite Serbia to had pay around €200 million a year to isfied with its complete dependence on that the agreements between Russia and ry lapse of logic, fact or lack of clarity, tions. wider public, as intrinsically opposed conspiracy theories deployed by major what is left of Serbia’s culture of pub- rectify the breach in cooperation with pay off the debt. EXCESSIVE Gazprom”. the countries involved in the project did occasionally pitting guests’ arguments Even when the public requests infor- to them and unenlightened, and offer parties. lic debate remains is for the country’s the Secretariat by the end of the year. Unlike other public companies, RELIANCE ON RUSSIA The company had showed no “strong not match EU rules. against one another for the listeners’ mation and explanations, its demands no arguments for their assertions when Even in the UK, the land of the To- chattering and twittering classes to The law must be enforced – transpo- Srbijagas does not suffer from an ex- desire to impose any competitive gas These say that same company may benefit and pleasure. Although the at- are too often left unanswered. There asked. day programme, the situation is getting ruthlessly hold themselves and others sition on paper does not work any- cessive workforce but is burdened by Srbijagas remains dominant in the routes or to introduce any competitive not both produce the gas and own the mosphere can get a little shouty, it is are many examples but one is the fact With the increased ability to select worse. to a higher standard. We need to call more,” it wrote. companies acquired through the con- field of gas transport with a total pipeline supply channels”, he added. transport network, while third parties always respectful in a jolly, cheerful we are yet to hear any more about the our own news sources and debating Former Tory cabinet minister, Mi- out and demand explanations for ob- “Opening the Energy Chapter [in the version of debts to ownership shares. network of 2,300 kilometres in northern “In addition to what director Kopač must have access to the pipeline. (stereotypically) British way. Listeners electoral fraud that was allegedly per- partners on social media, many of us chael Gove, infamously quipped while scure statements, non-sequiturs and EU membership talks] is not possible Such companies include the chemi- and central Serbia. hinted, it can only be added that the Milan Kovačević, an economist, also come out of it more informed, their petrated during the 2012 presidential are content in our own constructed campaigning for Brexit that “Britain has dramatic labels, especially when com- during the sanctions. The provision of cal concerns Azotara Pančevo and Yugorosgaz, a company owned by Sr- highly concentrated share of Srbijagas argues that the Srbijagas dispute has a views broadened, occasionally with elections, a story the ruling Serbian Pro- echo chambers. We seem to be only had enough of experts” when confront- ing from those we agree with. [EU] financial grants for certain energy MSK Kikinda and the meat producer, bijagas and Russia’s Gazprom, through a in the wholesale and retail market also political dimension to it. some schadenfreude from listening to gressive Party promised to tell us more looking to make a bigger bang with an ed with opposing views. Brexiteers Ultimately, we need to see those sector projects will subsidiary, controls the remaining 5 per explains the company’s obstruction to “It is in our interest to comply with cer- a guest have his ego bruised. than four years ago. ever more exaggerated assertion, rath- went on to victory in the EU referen- we are debating with, on our side or also be ques- cent of the transport network with around unbundling and to making room for tain rules,” he said. “However, we have Unfortunately, in Serbia and the re- This lack of respect towards the gen- er than constructively challenge and dum last June, often repeating claims the other, as well as those listening, as tioned, if not We have 125 kilometres in southeast Serbia. new entrants [in the market],” the Energy let one Russian company holds assets in gion that sort of show is barely imagina- eral public is sadly becoming the norm. scrutinise. that were demonstrably wrong. worthy of respect, time and effort – oth- stalled,” the Since 2008, the general manager of Sr- Community said in its reply to BIRN. both the gas and oil sector while allow- ble as the tradition of respectful public There is little appreciation of the Sadly, without a culture of public erwise what is the point of talking and Secretariat committed bijagas has been Dušan Bajatović, a sen- “But the company is not solely to ing Srbijagas to become a tool of political debate is almost non-existent, and the idea that even when one is demon- GLOBAL DECLINE debate, without access to facts, logic writing? added. ior official of the Socialist Party of Serbia, blame. Government inaction in this case power, not just a company.” little that does exist is being slowly strably right, it does not mean that one and respect for both the audience and BIRN asked ourselves to SPS, and one of the main interlocutors be- amounts to indifference to the wellbeing In Kovačević’s opinion, the case of un- eroded. is exempt from scrutiny or the need to Unfortunately, it seems that it is in- the opposing side, freedom and equal- both Serbia’s tween Serbia and Russia’s Gazprom when of its own citizens,” it added. bundling Srbijagas involves the different A worryingly large portion of the explain oneself to the public, ideally in creasingly a bad time for public debate ity are imperilled. People shouting past Srđan Garčević is a writer and a founder of Ministry of making public discussing the latter’s activities in Serbia. Experts say that, having in mind the interests of Russia and the EU - and how media shows shockingly little respect simple terms. Albeit tiresome, this is a across the globe. each other, unchecked by logic and The Nutshell Times blog. Mining and Energy and Srbijagas enterprises more Around 80 per cent of Serbia’s annual involvement of both the EU and Russia long Serbia can balance those interests is about plans to react to these demands consumption of gas, which is around 2 in Serbia’s energy sector, apart from any questionable. but received no reply by the time of efficient but billion cubic metres, is imported from economic interests, the demand for the He said that the government had tried publication. Russia. unbundling of Srbijagas clearly has a po- with some success to maintain a balance Ljubodrag Savić, an economics didn’t make one This is supplied on the basis of a long- litical dimension to it. between US, Russian, Chinese, European professor at Belgrade University, said term contract in which Yugorosgaz acts The EU operates different standards and other influences, but there was often his plaque is located at number 42 on Dorćol’s Gospodar Jovanova street Serbia had not only accepted certain important step as the intermediary between Srbijagas for its own members and for candidate too much politics and too little economic and commemorates Serbian literary critic Jovan Skerlić (1877-1914), who obligations in relation to the Energy in this direction and Gazprom. countries when it comes to cooperation reasoning in this act. lived in the building from 1905 until his death. Community, but that it was also in the The other 20 per cent of Serbia’s gas with Russia, some experts maintain. “We have committed ourselves to T Skerlić was also a professor, journalist and editor of the Serbian Literary country’s interest to make Srbijagas – we have let consumption is covered from local pro- “Germany was not bothered that EU making public enterprises more efficient Gazette, as well as a member of the Serbian Royal Academy and an MP. more efficient. duction controlled by NIS, a company regulations were not fully respected in but didn’t make one important step in Belgrade-born Skerlić was also an ideologist of the revolutionary youth in Yugosla- “The company has great poten- government mainly owned by the Russian company case of Nord Stream [the gas pipeline this direction – we have let government via and was inspired by the European traditions of liberal democracy, social justice tial but its inefficient operation also Gazprom Neft. running from Russia under the Baltic Sea ministries run companies. and national liberation. comes at a high cost, which is trans- ministries run By relying more or less on a single for- to Germany], while in some other cases “When this happens, it is always a sign The plaque was unveiled on May 15th, 1964, by the Association of Serbian writers. ferred to the taxpayers through state companies." eign supplier - Russia - and on a single the EU has demanded compliance with that we will be slow in reforming state- Aside from this plate, the City of Belgrade also commemorated him with a bust at guarantees for company loans,” he gas route, through Ukraine and Hungary, these rules,” Savić said. owned companies,” Kovačević conclud-

Hidden Belgrade Kalemegdan Park. recalled. Serbia’s energy safety remains unre- In the case of the now abandoned ed, noting that if Serbia has decided to As the company’s debts far exceed Milan Kovačević, solved, especially as Gazprom intends to South Stream pipeline, which was to develop a market economy, it must fol- €1 billion, it can only get fresh loans an economist close the Ukrainian route in 2019. have run from Russia under the Black low the rules of one. 8 BELGRADE INSIGHT, Friday, September 23 - Thursday, October 06, 2016 BELGRADE INSIGHT, Friday, September 23 - Thursday, October 06, 2016 9 REGION FACES Continued from page 1 Slobodan Georgiev: People can be killed in different ways

The journalist the institution, and that’s not good. An in- dividual should never be greater than the who has received institution,” he says.

various death ENERGY HAS VANISHED FROM treats since being SOCIETY Meanwhile, he says that while he has labelled an en- called the police twice over the anony- mous death threats he has received, he emy spy and a for- is far from confident that officialdom- in tends to take any action. eign mercenary “All the actors in this country know that this situation [of violent threats] exists, is in no mood to starting from Vučić to the police. If the threat is a real danger, they should deal back down. with it,” he says. “This really isn’t normal, and, one day, if something happens, people will justify Natalia ŽABA someone’s death by saying he was a spy, he deserved what he received,” Georgiev e is loud, not only in the adds. Serbian media but by He recalls that back in 1996, under the nature. However, Slo- regime of Slobodan Milošević, he and oth- bodan Georgiev did not ers spent months on the streets, calling become notorious only for freedom of speech and free elections. for his sharp tongue. Today, he says, this energy seems to have HWhat turned him into a “public enemy” vanished from Serbian society, or been were his award-winning investigative killed off. stories and his Twitter account, which “Killing is not only physical, people can receives around three million visits a be killed in different ways,” he opines. month. “If you can’t make the ends meet – The BIRN editor, journalist and pro- you’ve been killed, if you don’t feel safe – gramme coordinator as well as NGO ac- you’ve been killed. If you don’t have a job tivist has for long been marked by the – you’ve been killed. If you’re paralyzed Elias Sulaiman in Sofia. Photo: Courtesy of Elias Sulaiman pro-government tabloids as a foreign mer- with fear, are you alive? No, you’re not,” cenary and a traitor. Georgiev says. In the last three months, his own situ- He believes too many people in Serbia ation - and that of some of his colleagues Slobodan Georgiev, BIRN Serbia editor, journalist and programme coordinator. Photo: BLIC/Mladen Surjanac are paralyzed by fear and dare not speak - has deteriorated from one in which they up. “And this is Serbia today. An EU candi- faced a hostile media campaign to death “Furthermore, when we used to release Written by Aleksandar Đorđević, the at some point – but only once power has date with opened chapters, praised from threats. stories, for instance about [former Bel- investigation sparked a yearlong cam- shifted. the outside.” Bulgaria’s IT boom offers Asked about his worries, he says he is grade Mayor Dragan] Đilas, we’d be invited paign against BIRN in January 2015, when He concludes: “Did we win [freedom] or not afraid and not even close to censor- to talk about it precisely at Studio B or on Prime Minister Vučić himself called BIRN TROUBLES WITH TWEETS not? No, we didn’t. Then we need to start ing his words. Instead, he promises to be- Pink,” Georgiev recalls. liars and an organisation paid by the EU to all over again.” come sharper than ever. Since 2014, when Aleksandar Vučić smear his government. Georgiev has also had troubles over his “This situation does not change the way and his Serbian Progressive Party took tweets on the recent mystery demolitions Disclosure: Slobodan Georgiev is BIRN Syrian refugee new life I function. On contrary, I feel the need to power, he adds, the situation has dramati- REVELATIONS HAVE in the Savamala district of Belgrade. Serbia employee. be even sharper. This is my city, I was born cally changed. TOO LITTLE IMPACT On the night of April 24th, masked men here, these are my streets,” Georgiev says. Georgiev has been called a “foreign demolished residential buildings and he outsourcing and blamed the drop not on the lack of busi- Vassil met Elias when they were cancy. Today, this sector needs 50,000 EU country of entry, which allows other He also says that on those same streets mercenary”, “liar” and “a spy” in pro-gov- Georgiev is frustrated that media own- business premises in that part of the Sava- CORRECTION: IT services sector has ness opportunities but on the shortage both volunteering to help refugees in people, and it is clear that if there were member states to send them back to he meets plenty of positive reactions, with ernment tabloids or on shows broadcast ership in Serbia still remains a mystery, mala areas that has been designated for In Belgrade Insight Issue been the fastest grow- of qualified workers. Bulgaria in 2013 and he hired him to suitable candidates, businesses would Bulgaria under the Dublin Regulation. people wanting to shake his hand, greet on television stations close to the ruling that Air Serbia was established under the future Belgrade Waterfront develop- Number 212, published on ing branch of the Bul- “The Bulgarian business processing support his company’s business opera- have already hired them,” Velichkov In 2016, 402 asylum seekers were him, or simply exchange a few words. party. still never fully revealed conditions while ment. September 9th, the photo for garian economy for the sector in Bulgaria lacks 50,000 people. tions in the Middle East. explained. returned to Bulgaria, Daniel Indjiev, The investigation that brought Geor- no one has been held responsible for the After the night’s dramatic events, Geor- 'Faces' was wrongly attributed past decade. The first condition for employees is to “We have clients from all over the He added that now the Blue Card Vice-President of SAR, told Focus News INVESTIGATIONS giev most fame - but also most problems - Tamnava revelations. giev tweeted, ironically: “Next time I’ll de- to Marina Mićanović. It was In 2015, Bulgaria was named Europe- speak one more language apart from world, but we have set the focus on cli- procedure has been significantly short- Agency in August. CAUSE FURY was when BIRN published the draft agree- “When I compare what we do as BIRN molish during the daytime”. T taken by Natalia Žaba. an Outsourcing Destination of the Year their mother tongue, because the com- ents from the Middle East with Arabic ened and eased, so that all vacancies Elias believes that at least some of ments between the government and to investigative journalistic organisations He also posted a photo of a random ter- by the Outsourcing Association UK. It panies operating from Bulgaria provide as a native language. Our competitors can be filled “both by refugees and asy- those people have a good chance of Georgiev says the issues facing “diffi- UAE’s Etihad airway. around the world, they can easily list their rorist, which was understood by many as competed for the title with Latvia and services for the whole world,” Vassil Ve- worldwide do not perform very well on lum seekers and by people who want to finding a job in Bulgaria. cult” journalists such as him dates back The investigation, published in August impact. comparing the Prime Minister to a jihad- South Africa. lichkov, owner of the Sofia-based Sen- those markets,” Vassil said. establish their lives in Bulgaria and to At his previous job, he even con- years. “The system in which we live now 2014, revealed that the Serbia paid sev- “But in our case this is not happening, ist. Over the last year, Bulgarian soft- sika company, explained to BIRN. “Arabic is very specific - as a language work in this innovative sector”. vinced the company to open an Arabic in Serbia started back in 2008, when Boris eral times more than its UAE partner for except when there is a change of power,” “I never said that; this interpretation or, pizzeria ware companies and as font. Plus, doing business in the However, as Bulgaria has not had a state- department. “We started with three Tadić [then head of the Democratic Party] a 51-per-cent stake in the newly founded he says, recalling the story that BIRN re- better said, spin, came out of Informer,” he achieved a turno- Middle East requires a different ap- run integration program to assist refugees refugees and now more than a hundred was in power. company, Air Serbia. leased in 2012 on underground dump- says. "allo-allo" ver of 1.6 billion I am planning to proach. We Bulgarians are culturally in learning Bulgarian and finding a job on people work there,” he says. “Control over the media was then more “After we published the contract, the sters. “But I said even worse things on twitter. leva [around closer to our clients in Middle East [than the local market since 2013, few refugees As for his own future, he is convinced sophisticated, but the problems with the [hostile] campaign on the Internet and in This investigation showed that the City I said that what happened … was terrorism caffe €800 million], learn Bulgarian. most other Europeans] and it is easier for are aware of this opportunity. that for now it lies in Bulgaria: “I am then government and the present one [the pro-government newspaper] Inform- of Belgrade’s contract for underground - exaggerated? If yes, then whole our con- 65 per cent of us to do business with them,” he added. Most of the migrants who seek asy- planning to learn Bulgarian. I have mar- led by [Prime Minister Aleksandar] Vučić er started,” he says. dumpsters had violated procurement law. versation is an exaggeration,” Georgiev which was gen- I have married a Owing to the growing need to find lum in Bulgaria continue on their way ried a Bulgarian woman and we have were the same,” he adds. “We were labelled spies who had come Georgiev recalls that while nobody adds. erated from native Arabic speaking staff, early in to countries like Germany without a kid now. So I think my future will be “Whenever you wanted to do an inves- to destroy the government. Since then, reacted initially, once the Progressives A month-and-a-half after the mysteri- export services, Bulgarian woman 2016 the main associations of Bulgar- waiting for their asylum procedures here,” he said. tigative story about politicians, they never whenever we publish something, trou- ousted the Democrats from Belgrade City ous demolitions, Vučić in June conceded the latest study of the Bulgarian associa- ia’s IT and outsourcing companies con- to be finished and to receive Bulgarian He believes the Bulgarian state answered your calls and always tried to bles occur,” Georgiev notes. Hall in 2014, the officials responsible for that top officials in Belgrade City had been tion of software companies shows. and we have vinced the government to ease the pro- documents. should do more to support refuges who cover [things] up,” Georgiev continues. Georgiev also edited a much-discussed the contract were arrested based on accu- involved in the nocturnal demolitions. Around 90 per cent of people em- cedure for non-European specialists to Statistics of the State Agency for the want to stay in the country through However, he also sees differences. investigation into the contract awarded sations similar to those revealed in BIRN’s Georgiev says if his Twitter account has ployed in the sector are young special- a kid now. So I obtain a European blue card that gives Refugees, or SAR, revealed in August, integration programs and job counsel- While the Democratic Party held power, by the state-owned company Elektro- investigation. developed into a form of media resource ists under the age of 35. On average, they them the right to work. show that of 10,900 people who had ling. until 2012, the media was less polarised privreda Srbije, EPS, for dewatering the “This is just further proof of how dys- in Serbia, that reflects the fact that the me- earn four times more than the country’s think my future “The most important thing is that sought asylum in Bulgaria since the be- “The Bulgarian government must and slandering journalists in the tabloids Tamnava mine. functional our system is - and that our dia landscape in Serbia is far from free. average monthly wage of €475. now the IT and the outsourcing sec- ginning of this year, 5,000 did not show think about the future of the country. If was less usual. This article, published in January 2015, environment requires more engagement He sees also as problematic the fact that Beograd However, in 2015, the sector’s con- will be here.” tors are not obliged to carry out mar- up for their interviews for receiving they care about its future, they should “In 2008, there were no tabloid calum- said the contract had gone to two compa- from journalists,” he notes. people often do not distinguish between tinuous double-digit annual growth ket research on whether any Bulgar- protection. think about how to keep people like nies, no special programmes on [TV] Stu- nies with no relevant experience, one of He is also convinced that the investi- his private Twitter account and BIRN - for Svetozara Markovica 19a dropped by 3 per cent, as compared to ians are looking for the same job as Those people, however, have already me here, not to simply let them go,” he dio B or Pink made to libel journalists or whose directors was on trial for tax eva- gations into Tamnava, media ownership which he works - as an institution. tel. 011/3246 947 2014, to 11 per cent. The IT companies Elias Sulaiman foreigners who have applied for a va- been registered in Bulgaria as their first noted. NGO activists. sion. and Air Serbia will also result in justice “Suddenly, I became more visible than 323 88 88 10 BELGRADE INSIGHT, Friday, September 23 - Thursday, October 06, 2016 BELGRADE INSIGHT, Friday, September 23 - Thursday, October 06, 2016 11 OUT AND ABOUT DINING OUT

Wine Celebrating the Corner Lovac: Hunting for the It always begins with a simple question: harvest at Serbia’s wine ‘Can you bring taste of old Yugoslavia me the wine list’? Everything else that of small, crunchy cheese pies, a Lovac festivals follows is a complex signature dish. Homemade “Hunter” sausages are matter, and cannot a great choice for those having a hard be measured only time deciding between the game and The grape harvest by how much is left the Serbian grill section of the menu – the best of both worlds. They are made season is coming in the bottle after according to an old recipe, from three dinner. different types of game and other meat, and served in old-fashioned kafana to an end and the Pavle GOLICIN style with a bunch of French fries, an- biggest wine fairs n “extended part of my other side of finely chopped onions, flat” - a place across the and some mustard. in Serbia have end- street where I go in those Our personal favourite is “Gourmet rare moments when I don’t want to cook, or pljeskavica,” a sort of Serbian ham- ed, but wine en- Awhen I’m in a hurry - restaurant Lovac burger, a formidable proposition. Regu- [“Hunter” in Serbian] was a family lar grill mince is enriched with cheese, thusiasts can still tradition for my parents and their ham and spices, then wrap-rolled friends, who spent many an afternoon in stomach lining, giving it a distinct and evening there in the late-1970s indulge their taste and early 1980s. “camouflage” appearance, with layers I have to admit, even in a baby of irregular white netting around the buds at a series of stroller, I knew the waiters by name gourmet contents. The hamburger is way before I was able to distinguish grilled until the crust is slightly charred the names of my relatives! So, you’ve events around the already got it; I’m not objective when and the cheese melted inside. It is it comes to Lovac; it is an important served with chopped onions and goes country. piece of my childhood. However, with any fresh salad; bread is a must, of I’m not a child anymore, so I’ll do my course. best to be as fair as I would be with any other place, knowing that things Lovac still serves grilled meat plain, Natalia ŽABA change over time, including us. which is standard in old-fashioned At Lovac, you can still find the kafanas; anything on the side needs to he nearest upcoming wine fair to “old-school” kind of service, with all its be ordered. We had some oven-baked good and bad sides. You will probably Belgrade starts on September 22nd potatoes, which proved they deserved get what you wanted, with the staff in Sremski Karlovci, a small town trying to do their best to accommo- their staple status. 15 minutes away from Novi Sad date you, but don’t take it for granted The menu offers a number of sophis- and about 45 minutes from the – you have to deserve it by showing ticated game dishes, such as deer fillet empathy with their tough job and capital. with chestnut purée, wild duck in sour knowledge about the food and drink nd TIf you can’t make it on September 22 , no wor- at the same time. In other words, it will cherry sauce, or Lovac “basket”, deer in ries, this is only the ‘unofficial’ opening starting at depend on your kafana “credentials” wild mushrooms and a creamy white 6pm with a wine exhibition which will be followed and previous experience. wine sauce. Our experience with Lo- The wine list is long enough by by a concert by the Sveti Nikola choir. The main The grape harvest season is coming to an end. Photo: Pexels.com vac favours authentic rustic style over rd any standards, containing around gala is planned for September 23 , with its open- 50 labels. From the restaurant’s sophistication, so we chose goulash as ing ceremony at 8.45pm, immediately followed by STREET CELEBRATIONS IN OPLENAC results of the competition will be announced on Rajac is a small village in eastern Serbia, 24 kilo- perspective, this is good. Domestic our third main. It did not disappoint – a concert from the well-known band Bane Krstić October 8th at 11am. metres from Negotin and around three hours by and regional wines [i.e. ex-Yugoslav] prepared with roe deer and wild boar and Garavi Sokak at 9pm. If you can’t close the season in Sremski Karlovci, While in Oplenac, wines from the royal winery car from Belgrade. What makes it special is its ar- dominate the list, but foreign wines are meat, slowly cooked to soften the meat also represented. Almost half of the Sremski Karlovci is a charming, small Vojvod- think about heading to Oplenac on the first week- are a must-try. The royal winery was established chitecture - its original and authentic cellars called and merge its flavours, and served in wines are also available by the glass, inian town famous for its highly-rated Philology end of next month, from October 7th-9th. by King Aleksandar in 1931, and back then it was ‘pimnice’, which were built in the nineteenth and which creates enough possibilities to a brown bread bun. It was rich and Gymnasium, which focuses on the humanities The organisers (www.oplenackaberba.com) say considered to be one of the most modern winer- twentieth centuries for wine storage. match up wine with food. hearty, a taste straight from the hunter’s and languages, but it’s also a wine spot in Serbia, that the harvest festival will begin in Topola town ies in Serbia. Today, it only produces from its own Locals have managed to preserve some of them, Looking from a slightly different cabin, with just one small step away angle, from the kafana perspective, with Bermet as its trademark. centre and will be concentrated around the main grapes. One can try sauvignon blanc, pinot blanc and today, they are used in exactly the same way from perfection – the bun it was served Lovac offers two typical wines from Bermet is a heavy dessert wine enriched with streets which lead to Oplenac, which is the mau- and chardonnay, while among the reds there is as over 100 years ago. large-scale ex-Yu producers, a white in was dull, not crunchy, uninteresting. herbs which makes its taste very specific, and eve- soleum of the Serbian and Yugoslav Karađorđević cabernet sauvignon, locally known as Suveren. The pimnice are 1.5 metres underground and Smederevka by Tikveš and a rosé The service is typical for a renowned kafana around here - good, fast and reliable, but very old school. Photo: Facebook/Restoran Lovac Beograd The Garden salad turned to be a ry winery in Karlovci has its own recipe. royal family, and is decorated with astonishingly The festival will feature various folklore and tra- their walls are 60 centimetres thick so that the by Rubin, which are a must for any perfect choice to accompany the rich The Karlovački harvest festival will go on until rich mosaics. The church was founded by Peter I ditional music performances with a concert by the temperature remains as constant as possible decent spritzer. Moreover, the selec- Lovac [“Hunter” in Serbian], has occu- cializing in game dishes, which make mains. The selection of fresh vegeta- tion of rakijas is excellent, and, what Fancy a trip down th September 25 , and the programme offers various of Yugoslavia. well-known singer Jelena Tomašević at the clos- throughout the whole year. is more, has improved over the years, pied a prominent location on the corner up about half of the menu, the other bles was chopped coarsely and aligned activities for children, families and youngsters. On The programme is very diverse, with a grape ing gala on October 9th at 6pm. In the nineteenth century, wine from Rajac was so you can easily find your personal memory lane? of Njegoševa and Alekse Nenadovića, half being dedicated to traditional grills. on a wooden board with no mixing and September 24th at 11pm, popular Serbian rock band and wine exhibition, but also a dog show, musical exported mainly to France, as French vineyards favourites, either as an aperitif or a near the Slavija circle, for more than The game offer depends largely on dressing. Van Gogh will play live. events, a costumed procession through the streets UNDERGROUND IN had been affected by phylloxera, an insect that at- digestive. 50 years. It dates from the times when the hunting season. We knew that this “Tito’s cream pie” from Bled, an in- All in all, Lovac tries to combine This venerable tacks roots and leaves and damages vineyards. most kafanas were publicly owned and time of the year should be good for a stitution in former Yugoslavia, might The organisers also promise various music, and a children’s programme scheduled for the late THE RAJAČKE PIMNICE both worlds and is mostly successful wine and artistic workshops and presentations, as morning and around noon. Locals in Rajačke produce both red and white in doing so. More alternatives would eatery does not similar in style, as well as in what they visit, but it turned out that we had come not be as perfect at Lovac as it [still] is well as plenty of opportunities to taste and buy the The annual international wine competition will If you still feel as though the season should not wines, and they insist that their products are of the have been appreciated when it comes offered on their menus. Since it opened a fortnight early, as our waiter promptly in the most picturesque town in Slove- famous Bermet, which is not that readily available take place before the gala opening, on October be over in October, the Rajačke pimnice are the same quality today as they were more than a hun- to the selection of wine labels, espe- disappoint with in 1963, Lovac has stood out from the informed us. The annual game days in nia. Nevertheless, it was a perfect way cially foreign reds, to find the perfect even in Belgrade’s wine shops. 5th at 10am at the Karađorđe barracks, while the best place to be after the harvest is complete. dred years ago. rest of the scene because of its game Lovac were just about to start … to end a meal in this restaurant, one of combination with the game meat its evocative dishes for which Lovac is famous. dishes, its beautiful garden in the heart The service is typical for a renowned those that has outlived a country – and As over all those previous decades repertoire of of the urban surroundings and its bohe- kafana around here - good, fast and re- still successfully presents some of its [more than half-a-century has passed mian atmosphere - it was famous as a liable, but very old school. This style is flavours. Published by since the restaurant opened, changing gathering spot for Belgrade’s artists. quite outdated, but in old Belgrade es- owners and management over the game dishes and years], Lovac remains a safe choice Not only have we visited it on count- tablishments we have come to tolerate Lovac both for locals, for newcomers to creamy pies. less occasions, it has even played a it, even to the extent of enjoying it as a Address: Alekse Nenadovića 19 town and for foreigners eager to taste role in our family history. Back in his part of an authentic experience. Phone: +381 11 24 36 128 Serbian food. days, Duda’s grandfather was a regular We were thinking of skipping the Price Guide: 1300-1900 dinars Personally, I would prefer more of [around €10-€15] per person for three an old-school kafana than a restau- Duda&Vlada here and this is where, in the 1970s, her starters, to allow room for the rich game A LEADING PROVIDER OF SUBSCRIBE TO rant, as well as an open-an air garden parents’ wedding lunch took place. Of mains, but we could not resist a couple courses without drinks OUR PREMIUM under linden trees, rather than one ur spring and early course, Lovac is privately owned now artificially covered by a glass roof, as is summer reviews and has been thoroughly renovated NEWS AND ANALYSIS the case now, but, then again, maybe I CONTENT were dedicated to since its glory days in the times of for- IN SOUTHEAST EUROPE am just getting too emotional. ONCE KOVAČ, ALWAYS KOVAČ ~ ~ ~ new arrivals on the mer Yugoslavia. However, it has kept ONCE ”KAFANA”, ALWAYS ”KAFANA” for in-depth analysis, Belgrade restaurant a lot of elements of the original kafana investigative reports, RESTAURANT KOVAČ scene. Most of these look. The additional decoration evokes features, interviews, Basic Info Rating modern ethno restaurant commentary and profiles leftO us “almost satisfied”, but literally a hunter’s cabin – wooden beams cover on the latest business and all of them went on indoors due to the the ceiling while the walls showcase Overall GOOD political headlines. rain. So, after the summer break, we hunting weapons and trophy antlers. Wine selection GOOD were eager to make up for what we had The garden is furnished in a more mod- Wine service AVERAGE missed. Chasing our “happy garden ern, neutral manner. Wine pricing €7 - €80 meal”, we went for a safe bet, which is Apart from adding some contempo- OTHER SERVICES: how we ended up in the garden of Lo- rary international standard items, the vac, one of the best-known traditional menu in Lovac has stayed pretty much Wine and restaurants around town, in the heart the same over the years. Even today, it Bulevar Oslobođenja 221, Tel: 011 2462 343 www.restorankovac.com food pairing GOOD of the Vračar district. is the only restaurant in Belgrade spe- 12 BELGRADE INSIGHT, Friday, September 23 - Thursday, October 06, 2016 BELGRADE INSIGHT, Friday, September 23 - Thursday, October 06, 2016 13 WHAT’S ON ARTS

Film archive CLUBBING to host “Days of German Film” Bitef shows no signs of AND LIVE MUSIC th If you're interested in German slowing in 50 year cinematography, head over rd FRIDAY SEPTEMBER 23 • Special House, Freestyler, boat • Pump up the Friday, Lasta to the Yugoslav Film Archive Arts in brief on Sava river, 11pm boat on Sava river, 11pm between September 30th – Oc- Opera, Ballet • Clubbing Mate with Gordan • Play With Dark Magic • House: The Beatshakers, tober 3rd for a great sampling and Classical Paunović and Ewox, #Shakedolls, Shake and Shake, Shake and Shake, boat on Sava TRA T T O R I A of classic German movies. boat on Sava river, 11pm river, 11pm Grad Cultural Centre, Braće PIZZER I A Selected films include “The FRIDAY SEPTEMBER 23rd Krsmanović 4, 10pm • Katarina Kočetova Band, • Sweet and Sexy, Tilt, Cut” (2014), “Lisbon Story” • Sawyer and Midnight Dom Omladine, Makedonska Karađorđeva 2, 11pm Belgrade Philharmonic Orchestra (1994), “Metropolis” (1927), with Daniel Reiskin – conductor, Ilija Citizens.de, Zaokret, Cetinjska 22, 1pm • R&B and House Night, Beton, and more. Head over to the M. Kolarac Endowment, Studentski Trg 15, 10pm • Lovefest Experience: Jeff Karađorđeva 2, 11pm Nebojsina 8 archive's official website for a 5, 8pm 011/3863-999 Maestoso String Quartet, Students’ • RnB, Club 94, boat on Sava river, Mills and RTS Symphonic • Can’t Stop the Rock, KST, full programme listing: Cultural Centre, Kralja Milana 50, 9pm [email protected] 11pm Orchestra, BelExpo Center, Bulevar Kralja Aleksandra 73, www.kinoteka.org.rs www.restoranamici.rs SATURDAY SEPTEMBER 24th • Pump up the Friday, Lasta boat Španskih Boraca 74, 7pm 10pm on Sava river, 11pm • Petar Leon Matiš Quartet, • Slim Cessna’s Auto Club, Dom ArtLink Young Piano Duo Mina Ristić and Marija , Guarnerius, Džordža • House: The Beatshakers, Students’ Cultural Centre, Kralja Omladine – Americana Hall, Talents' Festival at Golubović Kolarac Endowment Vašingtona 12, 8pm Shake and Shake, boat on Sava Milana 48, 9pm Makedonska 22, 9pm Filigree from South, ethno music river, 11pm • TBF, Justin’s Johnson, Mikser • Kill, Morte Incadescente, concert, Ilija M. Kolarac Endowment, The ArtLink Festival features Studentski Trg 5, 8pm • Trust Me You Can Dance, House, Karađorđeva 46, 9pm Kolac, Dom Omladine, KOLARAC seven fantastic classical music th Drugstore Play, boat on Sava Makedonska 22, 9pm SUNDAY SEPTEMBER 25 th performances by some of the river, 11pm SUNDAY SEPTEMBER 25 Four Winds Bazaar, Ilija M. Kolarac world's best young talents. The nd , SATURDAY OCTOBER 1st PROGRAMME Croatia’s “On the Grave of Ignorant Europe” play will be performed in Belgrade on October 2 at Photo: Dražen Šokčević Endowment, Studentski Trg 5, 11am • R&B and House Night series takes place at the Ilija the Madlenianum Theatre. Freestyler, boat on Sava river, • Shake It Easy: Deep/Tech M. Kolarac Endowment and MONDAY SEPTEMBER 26th 11pm House, RnB, Shake and Shake, • Citizen Kain and Boryana, runs from October 1st-16th. The Belgrade's most im- or should go. Instead, it has always been 45-minute increments. The one perfor- • Old Hits Retro Party, Industrija boat on Sava river, 7pm Drugstore, Bulevar Despota an artistic project that looks to open up mance that will take place on this day Ondekoza, Ilija M. Kolarac Endowment, rd th line-up includes artists such as Studentski Trg 5, 8pm FRIDAY, SEPTEMBER 23 THURSDAY, SEPTEMBER 29 discussions and raise questions regard- will be “Kantor Downtown,” a theatrical Bar, Karađorđeva 23, 11pm • RnB Night, River, boat on Sava Stefana 115, 11pm Polish violinist Agata Szymcze- portant theatre fes- Igor Dražević, piano, Belgrade river, 11pm • Somebody Call the Doctor, ing contemporary issues that affect the performance that organizers have an- Cultural Centre, Trg Republike 5, 8pm • Can’t Stop the Rock, KST, Concert Hall, 8pm Concert Hall, 8pm wska and Slovakian conductor Andreas Scholl, countertenor tival, Bitef, is cel- world in which we live and, in effect, the nounced as a “reconstruction” of Tade- Bulevar Kralja Aleksandra 73, • Supernaut, Elektropionir, Club 94, boat on Sava river, Belgrade Philharmonic Orchestra Lukaš Pohunek performing th Edin Karamazov, lute theatre world as well. usz Kantor's famed “Dead Class,” per- WEDNESDAY SEPTEMBER 28 Cetinjska 15, 9pm 11pm For Lovers 1 10pm Programme: G. F. Handel, J. S. Bach, with the Radio and Television ebrating its golden The Bitef staff always ensures that formed during Bitef's 10th instalment 40 Conductor: Daniel Raiskin Ars Vocalis Choir, Ilija M. Kolarac • Blues Brothers Live, • Dunja Dačić-Dojo, Students’ • It’s All About Music, Drugstore John Dowland, Еnglish folk songs of Serbia Symphony Orchestra. the annual performances speak to rel- years ago. Soloist: Kolja Blacher, violin anniversary this Endowment, Studentski Trg 5, 6pm Akademija 28, Nemanjina 28, Cultural Centre, Kralja Milana Play boat on Sava river, 11pm (selection) Ticket prices range from two evant and current topics and this year “It's a well thought-out and sophis- Stanislav Binički Ensemble, Ilija M. Programme: A. Vrebalov: 10.000 Production: CEBEF is no exception. Many of the theatrical ticated combination of a reconstruc- Kolarac Endowment, Studentski Trg 5, 9:30pm 48, 9pm • Somebody Call the Doctor, Things, Belgrade Philharmonic Ticket price: rsd500, 700, 900 to five euros depending on year, and offers a performances on this year’s schedule tion of the famed 'Dead Class' and a 8pm • Goblini, KST, Bulevar Kralja Club 94, boat on Sava river, commission [around €4, 6, 7] seating. And while the opening address the current refugee crisis that video installation made up of several th SATURDAY SEPTEMBER 24th Aleksandra 73, 10pm 11pm J. Sibelius: Concerto for Violin and night with Szymczewska is a strong programme THURSDAY SEPTEMBER 29 FRIDAY, SEPTEMBER 30th has shaken Europe and continues to interviews with people who were part • Special House, Freestyler, boat Orchestra highlight, the rest of the pro- that doesn’t com- have very real political, cultural and of New York City's avant garde theatre Andreas Scholl – countertenor, Edin th F. Schreker: Nachtstück from the gramme is great as well. Find • Drugstore Season Opening: MONDAY SEPTEMBER 26 on Sava river, 11pm Concert Hall, 8pm social ramifications across the entire scene of the second half of the 20th cen- Karamazov – lute, Ilija M. Kolarac opera The Distant Sound Belgrade Philharmonic Orchestra out more at the Endowment's Endowment, Studentski Trg 5, 8pm Speedy J, Drugstore, Bulevar • Marko Gojković and Dave P. I. Tchaikovsky: Francesca da Rimini promise the se- continent. tury,” Medenica said. For Adventurers 1 official website: Despota Stefana 115, 11pm • Nineties, Club 94, boat on Sava Floyd, Shake and Shake, boat Production: Belgrade Philharmonic Conductor: Howard Griffiths Bitef Art Director Ivan Medenica told As far as innovations go, organizers FRIDAY SEPTEMBER 30th www.kolarac.rs riousness and • Little Lu, Zaokret, Cetinjska 21, river, 11pm on Sava river, 11pm Soloist: Fazil Say, piano the press conference that “the closing have announced the Bitef Amphitheat- SATURDAY, SEPTEMBER 24th Programme: A. Đorđević: The of borders, raising of fences, European er and the Bitef Library will give theatre Belgrade Philharmonic Orchestra 10pm • RNB Night, Industrija Bar, enthusiasm on with Howard Griffiths – conductor, Joy of Meeting Anew, Belgrade 56th October isolation and neo-colonialist views that fans a peek into the master theses of • Tronic Lab 6, Grad Cultural TUESDAY SEPTEMBER 27th Karađorđeva 23, 11pm Philharmonic commission Ilija M. Kolarac Endowment, Studentski Concert Hall, 8pm Salon celebrates “The western Europe has towards non-Euro- students who graduated from the Fac- Trg 5, 8pm Centre, Braće Krsmanović 4, • Rebel Star, Elektropionir, F. Say: Silence of Anatolia, concerto for which the festival South Balkans Ethno Concert piano and orchestra No. 3 Pleasure pean people,” are only some of the topics ulty of Dramatic Arts during the former Merry Gospel Choir, Cvijeta Zuzorić 10pm • Summer Jam, Club 94, boat on Cetinjska 15, 9pm Vocal: Milica Milisavljević Dugalić N. Rimsky-Korsakov: Scheherazade that are touched on at this year's Bitef. Yugoslavia era. Pavillion, Kalemegdan, 8pm of Love” was built. Strad String Quartet, Guarnerius, • Lucky Light LTD Showcase, Sava river, 11pm Production: Belgrade Philharmonic “We are witnesses to the fact that The festival also features a meeting th Džordža Vašingtona 12, 8pm Sajmište, 11pm • Nineties, Freestyler, boat on SUNDAY OCTOBER 2nd SUNDAY, SEPTEMBER 25 barbed wire and walls are going up in of the international congress of the In- SATURDAY, OCTOBER 1st One of the oldest running David Europe again, and we are once again on ternational Association of Theatre Crit- rd • Classic Trance Night vol. 4, Sava river, 11pm GALIĆ MONDAY OCTOBER 3 Concert Hall, 11am contemporary arts festivals in the border between the rich North and ics, which means that more than 100 Kinky Bar, Nikole Spasića 3, • Freakwater, Elektropionir, • Shake It Easy: Deep/Tech Concert Hall, 8pm Concert of Chamber Music for Guitar, Serbia, the October Salon is uring the festival, Bel- poor South,” Medenica said, adding critics from 40 different countries will Aleksandra Randenković – piano, Opening of ArtLink Festival Belgrade Cultural Centre, Trg Republike 10pm Cetinjska 15, 9pm House, RnB, Shake and Shake, Soprano, Baritone and Cello RTS Symphony Orchestra, celebrating its 56th year with grade theatre fans will that there is a similar feeling of tension be in attendance. Maja le Roux, guitar 5, 8pm • Feloneezy and Jackie Dagger, boat on Sava river, 7pm Conductor: Lukaš Pohunek the theme, “The Pleasure of get to see twelve different in the air as there was when the festival In addition, honoured guest Nigerian Evgenija Jeremić – soprano and Tanja Andrijić, soprano Elektropionir, Cetinjska 15, 10pm WEDNESDAY SEPTEMBER 28th • RnB Night, River, boat on Sava Agata Szymczewska, violin Love.” It kicks off September theatre performances was founded half a century ago, when academic Femi Osofisan will be receiv- Vladimir Gligorić – piano, Belgrade Svetozar Vujić, baritone (The First Prize of Wieniawsky rd in between September Yugoslavia found itself in between the ing the international award for theatre Cultural Centre, Trg Republike 5, 9pm • Danijel Čehranov, Dooshan river, 11pm Competition) 23 and lasts until Novem- Aleksandar Latković, cello th nd th D24 and October 2 . East and West. criticism this year at the festival. th and Miloš Starčević, Lasta boat • Shake D Wednesday: RnB, Dobrila Miljković, piano Programme: M. Bruch: Concert for ber 6 at the new building of THURSDAY OCTOBER 6 Violin No. 1, G minor Bitef’s slogan this year is the somewhat The first day of the festival, Satur- Tickets cost in between five and €22, on Sava river, 11pm Shake and Shake boat on Sava MONDAY OCTOBER 3rd Production: Music Centre Belgrade City Museum (former R. Schumann: Symphony No. 4 abstract “On the Back of the Frenzied day, will serve as a bit of a “prologue” depending on the performance. If you Music of the Heart: Tijana Đuričić – Admission free • It’s All About Music, Drugstore river, 11pm Eugen Suchon: Symfonietta Rustica Military Academy) at 40b Bull,” a metaphor for the turbulent times in which the 50th anniversary of the are interested in a more detailed run- soprano, Irina Naumovska – piano, , Hot Mes , Club 94, boat on Sava Ticket prices: rsd300, 500, 700 Resavska street. Entry to all Aleksandar Budimir – accordion, Play boat on Sava river, 11pm • Retro House Party • Nineties th that Europe is currently going through. festival will be celebrated. The celebra- down of the programme, head over to MONDAY, SEPTEMBER 26 [around €2, 4, 5] of the exhibitions is, as usual, Cvijeta Zuzorić Pavillion, Kalemegdan, • Somebody Call the Doctor, boat on Sava river, 11pm river, 11pm Bitef has never been about making tion starts with the opening of four dif- Bitef's official website: http://festival. 7.30pm Club 94, boat on Sava river, 11pm • Belgrade Buzzin’, Freestyler Concert Hall, 7.30pm THURSDAY, OCTOBER 6th completely free. suggestions as to where theatre is going ferent exhibitions, one after another in bitef.rs/. boat on Sava river, 11pm TUESDAY OCTOBER 4th Drummer Concert “Ondekoza“ – Japan Concert Hall, 8pm • Belgrade Funk Combo, The Notes of Friendship Grad Cultural Centre, Braće • Summer Jam, Club 94, boat on Symphony Orchestra of students WEDNESDAY, SEPTEMBER 28th Krsmanović 4, 9pm Sava river, 11pm "BENSO" (mixed Orchestras of Faculty of Music in Belgrade and Faculty of • Nineties, Freestyler, boat on Music Gallery, 6pm Music in Novi Sad) EUROPE FOR FESTIVALS FESTIVALS FOR EUROPE THURSDAY SEPTEMBER 29th Sava river, 11pm Choir Ars Vocalis Conductor: Professor Bojan Suđić EFFE LABEL 2015-2016 Soloist: Daniel Roscia, clarinet (Italy) FREE COPY • Girls Names, Elektropionir, The choir and soloists compositions inspired by folklore of Serbian Programme: Pyotr Ilyich • Shake the Nineties, Shake and Cetinjska 15, 9pm composers from the earlier period. Tchaikovsky, Gioacchino Rossini, Publisher: BIRN d.o.o. Shake boat on Sava river, 11pm Nikolai Rimsky-Korsakov, Stevan Production: Music Centre Hristić Kolarčeva 7/5, 11 000 Belgrade th • House Night, Freestyler boat WEDNESDAY OCTOBER 5 Admission free Admission free Phone/Fax: +381 11 4030 300 on Sava river, 11pm Editor in Chief: Gordana Igrić BIRN editorial team: • Roy and the Devil’s • Shake D Wednesday: RnB, Ana Petruševa, Marcus Tanner, Motorcycle, Elektropionir, Shake and Shake boat on Sava bbr [email protected] Cetinjska 15, 9pm river, 11pm eemm raacc Sales & Marketing: Marija Petrović e • Retro House Party, Hot Mes e Phone: +381 11 4030 302 th t FRIDAY SEPTEMBER 30 boat on Sava river, 11pm thh cc [email protected] ee ii • Belgrade Buzzin’, Freestyler ss Subscription & Distribution: Modern Serbian Cuisine, Mediterranean and Italian cuisine mmuu Goran Knezevic • Paco Osuna, Barutana, boat on Sava river, 11pm SERBIAN CUISINE THROUGH CENTURIES +381 11 4030 303 Kalemegdan fortress, 11pm [email protected] • RnB, Club 94, boat on Sava river, THURSDAY OCTOBER 6th 11pm Printing: POLITIKA štamparija d.o.o. ISSN 1820-8339 = Belgrade Insight • Blow Up Friday, Shake and • Shake the Nineties, Shake and COBISS.SR-ID: 149132556 Shake, boat on Sava river, 11pm Shake boat on Sava river, 11pm Reservations: +381 11 2607436, www.vagon-victoria.rs Circulation: 4,000 • RnB, Club 94, boat on Sava river, • House Night, Freestyler boat on Location: Bulevar Zorana Djindjica 44a, New Belgrade Working Hours: Mon-Sun 8 a.m. - 1 a.m. 11pm Sava river, 11pm 14 BELGRADE INSIGHT, Friday, September 23 - Thursday, October 06, 2016 BELGRADE INSIGHT, Friday, September 23 - Thursday, October 06, 2016 15 GOING OUT ON THE SPOT Soak up the sun at Klub Gavez Belgrade

While a little hard Gavez seems to be most popular dur- ing July and August, when the summer markets to find, Gavez heat is suffocating on Belgrade’s streets. On those nights, the appeal of Gavez’s is perfect for woodland location is that it gives you a place to go where it’s a least ten degrees freshen clubbers looking cooler than in the city. And it really is a place that’s most to enjoy the last popular during the summer, since the outside area is much bigger than the ac- up with tual club. The fact that this front yard is days of summer. so big gives you a feeling that it’s never really too crowded, even when all of David GALIĆ the picnic tables are taken. There’s autumn a good amount of distance between avez is an interesting each wooden table, so it never feels as place to check out be- if other people are almost sitting on top cause it’s a bit uncon- of you. veggies ventional. It’s located This obviously changes in the win- close to the popular ter, when Gavez has to move all the Ada Ciganlija artificial action into the small cabin that actu- lakeG but it’s not at all where you would ally makes up the club. But while the One kilogram costs 100 dinars. “The expect it to be. weather is nice, no one even considers Autumn is only price hasn’t changed in four years,” Most of the bars and clubs at Ada actually entering the small club, which just beginning Kurtić says. Ciganlija are on the left coast of the looks more like a mountainside bed Gordana Živanović is one of those river. This cluster of clubs is probably and breakfast than anything else. but the stalls at vendors who come to sell their wares the second most popular cluster of out- At Gavez, you don’t feel like you’re at Kalenić as a hobby, not just to bolster door, waterfront nightclubs after the in Belgrade at all. It’s more as if you've Belgrade’s Kalenić her domestic budget. splavs located all over the Danube and taken a weekend trip to the country- A few years ago, she started to pro- Sava rivers. side and are enjoying a night out in market are already duce home-made jams and sauces. But Gavez is on the complete oppo- the woods, surrounded by friends and Živanović cooks up her concoctions site side, basically in the wilderness nature. It’s not all pretty though, since heaving with fresh at home, and offers a range of prod- that surrounds the popular summer summers at Gavez also comes with ucts made with flowers that cannot be beach. If you’ve never been to Gavez their fair share of pesky mosquitos. seasonal peppers, found anywhere else. before, consult your maps and take As far as entertainment goes, it’s a Jams made from peppers and jas- some notes, or be sure to go with some- very eclectic offer at Gavez. Sometimes Gavez seems to be most popular during July and August, when the summer heat is suffocating on Belgrade’s streets. Photo: Facebook/Gavez Klub pumpkins, mine flowers, and from hot peppers, Gordana Živanović is one of those vendors who come to sell their wares at Kalenić as a hobby. Photo: BIRN/Natalia Žaba one who’s already been there, because there are full-blown dance parties with plums and chocolate, are only two of it’s not at all easy to find. city DJs playing deep into the night, oth- music in the background, while other at the end of the night, since you’re option to check out this autumn before radishes and the original recipes she has invented at When you do finally reach it, Gavez er times you’ll hear great live music that times it’s a full-blown dance party. probably going to have to take a taxi the weather gets too cold. home. actually looks more like some kind of runs the gamut from reggae to jazz and Another reason Gavez is appealing home. grapes. And while she’s showing off her treas- hippie commune than an actual club everything in between. is because the drinks are priced sig- But if you’re ever sick of the dreary Gavez Klub ures packed in little jars, she explains: or bar. After entering a small gate, you’ll There really are no rules at Gavez. nificantly lower than in most bars and concrete of the city and want to spend a Address: Ada Ciganlija Natalia ŽABA “I’m not doing this for money, I’m just see an expansive field with picnic ta- Sometimes you’ll see people simply sit- clubs in the heart of the city. But that’ll fun night out in nature without actually Contact: +381 11 35 53 071 happy to make my customers smile.” bles all over the place. ting around having drinks with some probably balance itself out financially having to travel to far, Gavez is a great +381 63 88 06 112 ira Kurtić has been While she’s telling me that, one of her working at Kalenić, regulars comes by and gives her some one of the most fa- hot peppers, a variety that comes from mous open-air mar- Israel, which she’s going to use in her 2CELLOS announce Justin's Johnson kets in the city, for 30 latest recipe. Myears. Another happy spirit at Kalenić is spring concert and TBFcelebrate “The peppers didn’t yield a good crop 16-year-old Mihajlo Andrejić. Asked Split in Belgrade this year,” she says, despite the fact why he is here at a Belgrade market asily one of the most attractive and popular groups that her stall is decorated with beauti- instead of being at school, he explains in Serbia, the famed duo of Luka Šulić and Stjepan ful, shapely ‘Kurtovka’ peppers, a very that his classes start in the afternoon, so Hauer (known as 2CELLOS) have announced a wo excellent bands from the Croatian sea popular variety in Serbia, fleshy in form beforehand he comes to help his moth- new concert in Belgrade. It will take place next town of Split will be featured on September with a lot of vitamin C. er who works here. spring, March 25th at the Kombank Arena. It might 24th at Mikser House, Justin's Johnson and It’s an essential ingredient for prepar- While preparing corn and pumpkins seem a bit premature, but 2CELLOS have sold out TBF. The event will include food and other ing ajvar, a Balkan relish made from so they look their best on the stall, he concertsE in Belgrade before and these tickets are probably going delicacies from Split served by the famed Figa red peppers which is commonplace all says that despite the fact that he lives in to fly out the window quickly as well. Known for beautifully com- Food Bar, during the day, while the concerts over the region. Belgrade, he and his two brothers and bining classical and pop music, 2CELLOS have become an inter- willT be help at night. Justin's Johnson is a ska punk band that ‘Kurtovka’ is great for stuffing and parents work on a farm outside the city national sensation, selling out more than 1,000 concerts in over has been on the Croatian scene for over 15 years, and TBF for making ‘belolučene paprike’ salad, and sell their wares at Kalenić. 40 countries and playing to more than 10 million people over the needs no introduction, they are one of the most popular and a common dish in Serbia made from “Now you can take a photo, I’ve just last five years. Tickets for the event cost between ten and €32 de- influential veterans of the Croatian hip hop landscape. Tickets grilled and peeled pepper, garlic, olive peeled the corn; it looks nice,” he says pending on seating. for the event will cost eight euros. oil and vinegar. with a smile. Vegetables at Kalenić market. Photo: BIRN/Natalia Žaba

Portuguese dark metal veterans back in Belgrade AIRLINE TICKETS Moonspell come from Portugal and Slim Cessna’s Auto have been constantly evolving their Club at Dom Omladine style of dark, gothic metal for more than Swedish cult black FOR THE WHOLE WORLD 20 years. They are coming back to Bel- Coming from the epicentre of dark metal at Dom Omladine grade on October 5th and will be playing American folk rock, Denver, Slim Festival to feature Dom Omladine. The group has been on Cessna's Auto Club are highly recom- If you like it even darker than Slim best Serbian blues artists Jazz nights at KC Grad keep going tour for over a year now, and this will be mended for people who are fans of Cessna's gothic folk, you can check the fifth and final part of their “Road To bands like 16 Horsepower and Woven- out the small club of Dom Omladine Anyone who likes real blues music Even though the summer is over, that Extinction” world tour that has literally hand. After the August concert of King on September 30th, where an under- needs to head over to Dom Kulture doesn't mean that jazz shows in KC crossed the entire globe. Moonspell is Dude in Belgrade, it seems that Belgrade ground black metal show will be taking Studentski Grad on September 26th-27th Grad's garden are going to stop any time the only Portuguese metal band that has is becoming a hot spot for this sort of place. Headlining will be Sweden's Kill, to check out a blues festival made up of soon. In fact, they'll probably be going on a gold record status when it comes to dark “southern gothic” Americana. Bel- who have been around since the golden some of the best local bands keeping the all fall if weather permits. Playing on Sep- record sales. The band continues to pro- grade experimental folk rock band Went era 1990s of black metal. Supporting will genre alive. The show will include Blue tember 28th will be the Belgrade Funk mote their newest album, 2015's “Extinct” will be opening the show and tickets will be Morte Incandescente from Portugal Family, Raw Hide Bluy Mašina, Serbian Combo, led by Ljuba Paunić and Bane and tickets for the event will cost €27 at cost €15 at the door on September 30th at and Serbia's Kolac. Tickets will be seven blues veteran Dragoljub Crnčević and Kosar on saxophone and keyboards www.flyflytravel.com the door. Dom Omladine. euros at the door. more. Best of all, entrance is free. respectively. 16 BELGRADE INSIGHT, Friday, September 23 - Thursday, October 06, 2016 ADVERT Map of City Centre

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