Issue No. 199 Friday, February 05 - Wednesday, February 17, 2016 ORDER DELIVERY TO Belgrade’s Getting the Soak up YOUR DOOR +381 11 4030 303 ancient crafts most out of the the tour-star [email protected] - ISSN 1820-8339 1 guardians Beowine Fair vibe in BELGRADE INSIGHT IS PUBLISHED BY 0 1 Credo

Page 6 Page 9 Page 11 9 7 7 1 8 2 0 8 3 3 0 0 0 Even when the Democrats longas continue to likely is This also are negotiations Drawn-out Surely the situation is urgent Many of us who have experi - We feel in-the-know because bia has shown us that (a.) no single no (a.) that us shown has bia party or coalition will ever gain the governa - form to required majority negotiations political (b.) and ment, will never be quickly concluded. achieved their surprising result at last month’s general election, quickly it became clear that the - re sult was actually more-or-less the result election other every as same in Serbia, i.e. inconclusive. as Serbia’s politicians form new political parties every time disagree with they their current party - reg 342 currently are (there leader political parties in Serbia). istered the norm. One Ambassador Belgrade-based recently told me he was also alarmed by the distinct lack of urgency among politicians. Serbian “The country is standstill at and a I don’t understand their logic. If they are so eager to progress towards the EU and en - theycome how investors, courage go home at 5pm sharp and don’t work weekends?” overtime. little a warrant to enough EDITOR’S WORD Predictability Political By Mark R. Pullen elections Serbian numerous enced rate ourselves as pundits when it comes to predicting election - re sults and post-election moves. our experience of elections in Ser

Serbian youth use student - - - programme to escape countryNEWS

Lacking job oppor- NEWS

tunities in a diffi- “The situation in the party seems “Dacic will eventually side with Nikolic agreed: “The question is Fearing they might not cross the Pensioners leader, Jovan Krkoba - The reported price is the post of In addition, the Socialists are bar Tadic has denied talk of horse- At the same time, Dacic seems re - reach an agreement “If we don’t Source: Balkan Insight (www.balkaninsight.com) Balkan Insight (www.balkaninsight.com) Source: cult economy, dis- party over which way to turn. extremely complicated, as we try to convince the few remaining lag - gards that we need to move out of one Socialist shadow,” Milosevic’s Party official complained. in a bid to guide his party into Tadic the European mainstream, but much of the membership and many offi - cials may oppose that move.” will the party split or ‘old- back down,” he noted. timers’ threshold to enter parlia - 5-per-cent ment, the Socialists teamed up with Association of Pensioners and the the led by business - United Serbia Party, man Dragan Markovic “Palma”. bic, Palma and Dacic are all pushing for a deal with the Democrats. of deputy PM, with a brief in charge security for the Socialist leader. gaining for other ministries, includ - ing capital investments, Kosovo and education, Belgrade media reported. trading with the Socialists, maintain - ing that ministries would go only to those committed to working for the “strategic goal”. government’s negotiations with luctant to call off the nationalists. with the DSS and Radicals, par ty leadership will decide on future steps”, Dacic announced, following par new country’s of session first the liament on Wednesday. appointed Serbian youth are using a page 10 student work pro- gram to escape to

the US in hopes of hile the football world watch - es events unfold at the Euro - However, a strong current also However, Mihajlo Markovic, a founder of Markovic, a prominent supporter Some younger Socialist officials Neighbourhood Matters faces extinction unless it changes. flows in the opposite direction, led by party veterans enraged the Tadic. prospect of a deal with recently warned of a crisis the party, if Dacic opts for the pro-European “nat - bloc, abandoning the Socialists’ ural” ideological partners. of Milosevic during the 1990s, is seen as representative of the “old- timers” in the party who want to stay policies, true to the former regime’s even though these almost ruined the Socialists for good. have voiced frustration over the con - tinuing impasse within their own Football Rebellion Football pean Championships in Austria and pean Championships in Switzerland, Bosnia is experiencing led by fans, play - a soccer rebellion, enraged ers and former stars who are by what they see as corrupt leaders football association of the country’s leaders. a better life. W Issue No. 1 / Friday, June 13, 2008 Issue No. 1 / Friday,

Saša DRAGOJLO

ust a few years ago, twenty- page 5 five-year-old Nash never im- agined, even in his wildest dreams, that he’d be criss- crossing the United States as a full-time truck driver. conomists are warning that pro - over Serbia’s uncertainty longed “This year has been lost, from the Nash, which is not his real name but After eight years of stagnation, the pro-European and nation - With Nikolic believes the Socialists, led “The group of younger Socialists

J Business Insight Costs Mounting future could scare off investors, lead investors, lead future could scare off to higher inflation and jeopardise prosperity for years to come. says standpoint of economic policy,” Econom - the of Stamenkovic Stojan ics Institute in Belgrade. to Serbia’s late president, Slobodan to Serbia’s Milosevic, and reformists who want the party to become a modern Euro - pean social democrat organisation. the Socialists returned to centre stage after winning 20 of the 250 seats in elections. parliament in the May 11 alist blocs almost evenly matched, the Socialists now have the final say on the fate of country. by Ivica Dacic, will come over to if only out of a pragmatic de - Tadic, sire to ensure their political survival. gathered around Dacic seems to be adding said, Nikolic majority”, the in that these reformists believe the party an ‘American nickname’, is just another E young Serb who escaped to America looking for a better life. “There was no future for young peo- ple in Serbia like me…I had to go abroad. Friday • June 13 2008 The job opportunities back home are as rare as snow in Florida,” says Nash with laughter during our Facebook conver- sation - obviously he’s already picked THIS ISSUE OF up traces of the local humour. Belgrade Insight IS SUPPORTED BY: IS SUPPORTED ense negotiations on a new gov - ense negotiations ernment have divided the ranks

Continued on page 2 Nash is ‘based’ in Chicago where he is sharing an apartment with his brother and a girlfriend. Photo: Facebook “It looks as if the Socialists will Simultaneous negotiations held This divides “old-timers” loyal Socialist leader Ivica Dacic remains the Serbian kingmaker Socialist leader Ivica Dacic remains Lure of Tadic Alliance Splits Socialists Tadic Lure of government, old pro-EU While younger Socialists support joining a new, over the prospect. revolt Milosevic loyalists threaten in Belgrade By Rade Maroevic of the Socialist Party, which holds of the Socialist Party, of the balance power between the blocs and has yet to announce main which side they will support. move towards a government led by the Democrats,” political analyst Mi - lan Nikolic, of the independent Cen - tre of Policy Studies, said. “But such a move might provoke deeper divi - sions and even split the party.” with the pro-European and national - ist blocs have drawn attention to a deep rift inside the Socialists. T Constitutional courts face crisis across Balkans

the region, constitutional courts and oth- “Swift implementation of Constitution- working and security conditions, and Mounting political pressures and blatant er judicial bodies confront growing pres- al Court rulings is essential, and when protection against undue pressure re- disregard for judgments are undermining sures from different political players. they require the adoption of legislation mains inadequate. They also face numerous internal or change of work practices, the govern- Hearings also continue to be held in the authority of constitutional courts problems, including poor capacities, ment and parliament should ensure im- judges’ offices, which raises concerns lack of high quality staff and question- plementation,” the EU noted in its report. about potential undue influence and across the region. able professional standards. The EU stressed that judicial inde- corrupt practices. “Legislation [in the Western Balkans] pendence is “jeopardized by the highly BIRN Team publika Srpska, has pledged to proceed lacks implementation, so overall the politicized way in which High Court BOSNIAN SERB REFERENDUM with a referendum in the entity on cur- rule of law system remains weak,” and Constitutional Court judges are ap- POSES REAL THREAT osnia’s parliament on Febru- tailing the authority of the court. Transparency International, the NGO pointed” by the President with the back- ary 3rd heatedly debated a bill If the vote goes ahead, it will repre- dedicated to the fight against corrup- ing of a simple majority in parliament. In Bosnia, the Constitutional Court - which all the main Bosnian sent the single biggest challenge to Bos- tion, said in a statement to BIRN. In recent years, the process has has faced a major new challenge since Serb parties had proposed - nia's Constitutional court in years. been marred by controversies and last November, when the Court ruled that aims to weaken the pow- Its authority and decisions are al- INDEPENDENCE OF by parliament rejecting presidential that the national holiday in the Serb- Bers of the country’s Constitutional Court. ready increasingly ignored by differ- ALBANIAN JUDICIARY nominees. majority entity, Republika Srpska, was This proposal is expected to be ent state institutions and ordinary JEOPARDIZED Key legislation on reforming the Con- unconstitutional. eventually rejected, but that would not citizens. stitutional Court, the High Court and mean the end of troubles for the coun- Across the Balkans, meanwhile, consti- According to the EU’s 2015 progress the Prosecutor’s Office, is currently be- try’s top court. tutional courts face mounting problems. report on Albania, 12 Constitutional ing discussed. On the contrary, the leadership of In what some see as a general trend to- Court rulings have not been imple- In the meantime, judges and pros- Bosnia’s Serb-dominated entity, Re- wards a weakening of rule of law across mented. ecutors still do not have appropriate Continued on page 8

+381 11 4030 306 [email protected] 2 BELGRADE INSIGHT, Friday, February 05 - Wednesday, February 17, 2016 BELGRADE INSIGHT, Friday, February 05 - Wednesday, February 17, 2016 3 SERBIA SERBIA

Corruption hindering Continued from page 1 Serbian justice, BIRN report Serbia New research conducted by the Belgrade Centre for Secu- Serbian youth use student rity Policy and BIRN says that major branches of the Serbian justice system, police and Serbia in brief aims judiciary remain influenced by programme to escape country corruption.“There is a limited implementation of the national anti-corruption strategy in those fields. This situation isn’t to open in alignment with promises and plans for a better future made by the political elite in the past two years,” the report key EU presented in the Belgrade Media Centre on February 4th said. EU parliament passes chapters Serbia resolution

The European Parliament adopted a resolution on Serbia that calls for chapters 23 and in June 24 in Serbia's EU membership negotiations to be opened as early as possible, praises Negotiations on The Belgrade-based Centre for Secu- progress in the normalisation rity Policy is a part of an NGO coalition of relations between Belgrade called PrEUgovor, which is monitoring and Pristina, and encour- key chapters on the integration process in Serbia. ages Serbia to continue its Chapters 23, on the judiciary and economic reforms. Concerns Serbia’s European fundamental rights, and Chapter 24, that progress in the freedom on freedom and security, are deemed of speech and media freedom path could be crucial for Serbia's path to eventual EU have not been made was among the criticism. There opened as early membership. is also a constant political "There has been progress on Chapter pressure undermining media as June, an 24," Hahn said. "In terms of Chapter 23, freedom and causing self- we have some things that need to be censorship. The resolution done, but I am still convinced that it is was passed with 498 votes expert said, after possible to open these chapters by mid- in favour, 66 against and 70 year," Hahn added after meeting Ser- abstentions. Enlargement bia's Minister for European Integration, Jadranka Joksimović. Serbia jails Bosnian Commissioner Serbia opened the first two EU chap- Serb soldier for Srebrenica massacre ters in Brussels in mid-December – Hahn praised the Chapter 35, on normalisation of the Bosnian Serb ex-soldier progress made so relations with Kosovo, and Chapter 32, Brano Gojković was jailed addressing financial control. for ten years after making a However, most experts think that plea bargain with the Serbian far. Chapters 23 and 24 will be the toughest prosecution, admitting he to close for Serbia. took part in executing 800 “The opening of chapters is always Bosniaks from Srebrenica Saša DRAGOJLO a political decision. But, implement- in 1995. Gojković, a former ing the EU standards is another story member of the Bosnian Serb Army’s 10th Detachment, is ojan Elek, from the Serbi- where the EU relies on so called ‘track one of seven members of his an integration watchdog, records’, where they can see the exact unit who have so far been the Centre for Security results in specific areas,” Elek said. convicted of shooting around Nevena does not plan on returning to Serbia. It may be only for a short visit to friends and family. Photo: Facebook Policy, said on Febru- The latest European Commission 800 civilians at a military ary 3rd that Serbia may progress report on Serbia, released in farm in Branjevo on July 16th, lthough the wars, Serbian Work & Travel agencies, com- “I’m leaving at the end of May, defi- “I decided to follow a career in this be able to open negotia- November, said more needed to be 1995. The Bosnian prosecu- hyperinflation panies that help students get their vi- nitely. In Serbia, economy is going field. I will continue to chase what Btions with the EU on Chapter 24 of the done in terms of fighting corruption, tion expressed dissatisfaction and bread lines of sas. Work and travel programs have a down year by year. Young people are makes me happy and create a success- accession process in June. curbing political influence over the ju- with the Serbian court’s ruling, the nineties are 90% success rate in obtaining visas for just ‘trainspotting’ here with no high ful life from that,” Nevena says. He was speaking after Johannes diciary and ensuring media freedom saying that Gojković should have been given a longer long gone, Serbian their clients, according to one agency hopes for future,” Stefan says. Hahn, the EU Commissioner for En- and freedom of expression. prison sentence because he youth are still run- BIRN spoke with. “Whatever happens, I’ll try. Who FROM BELGRADE largement, on February 3rd confirmed The European Council granted Ser- took part in “one of the largest ningA to rich Western countries in huge D.S., owner of one such agency, told dares wins,” he says. TO WISCONSIN that Serbia had made progress on bia membership candidate status on executions in the Srebrenica numbers. BIRN that the percentage of young people Last May, twenty-three-year old Chapter 24, adding that if further pro- March 1st, 2012. genocide”. While many Serbian youth want to who never return to Serbia after obtain- Nevena Stojanović, a 4th year student Nash is now heading to Wisconsin gress is made on reforming the judici- The first intergovernmental confer- emigrate, visas abroad are much hard- ing the ‘J-1 visa’, is increasing every year. at University of Belgrade, had a lot of from Texas with a truck full of Toyota ary, Serbia could open both chapters by ence between Serbia and the EU was Serbia MPs duel over er to get because Serbia is no longer at “Two years ago, only 10 per cent of stu- personal dilemmas which she tried to forklifts. mid-year. held in January 2014 in Brussels, mark- danger of election war and has an officially democratic dents in my programme stayed in States. solve with a Work & Travel adventure “Just fresh off the boat”, he says with “Serbia could open chapter 24 in ing the start of accession negotiations fraud government. But some Serbian young- However, this year the number went up in USA. the eccentric enthusiasm borne of June this year,” Elek told BIRN. at a political level. The EU Commissioner for Enlargement, Johannes Hahn, is convinced that it is possible to open chapters 23 and 24 by midyear. Photo: Beta sters have found shortcut to a US visa to more than 25 per cent,” D.S. says. “I needed to get far away and discov- sleepless nights. Opposition and ruling – a student work & travel programs Surprisingly, he does not judge them, er who I was [with] nothing but myself “I’m exhausted. Sometimes I’m not party MPs clashed in Serbia's parliament about potential that allows them to legally enter the even though they use his agency as an to rely on. That was possibly my last home for two weeks…working a lot, not wrongdoings in the forthcom- United States of America without going ‘exit’ company. chance to become a truly independ- sleeping for three days if needed. But ing parliamentary elections through normal visa procedures. “In this country decent people can- ent person,” Nevena writes in an e-mail money is good and that is the only thing broadly scheduled for late “Once you land on the JFK [New York not ensure themselves a normal life. from Martha’s Vineyard, a small island that matters right now,” he says. April. Zoran Živković, president airport], you are done. The tough life of Even if it’s not all milk and honey in the in North-Eastern America, where she Nash is ‘based’ in Chicago where he is of the opposition New Party, an immigrant begins, but it is still better States, your chances here are less than now lives and works. sharing an apartment with his brother said that his party, like most than in Serbia,” Nash says. minimal,” he says. She got her first job at the Harbor and a girlfriend. To avoid ‘paper’ prob- citizens in Serbia, feared Serbia is a ‘scary’ 141th place out of 144 View Hotel as a dining room attendant. lems and legalize his status, he plans to electoral fraud. “We thought TAKE THE VISA AND RUN countries in their ability to retain tal- She was supposed to assist servers as get married as soon as possible. the period of election frauds ended on October 2000 [with ented, young people according to 2013 well as guests with their dining experi- “Yeah, I definitely need to find a wife. the fall of Slobodan Milošević] Officially, “Summer Work and Travel” data from the World Economic Forum. ence. It is not important how she looks as but election theft was already is a cultural exchange program de- Around 32,000 people leave Serbia “In the beginning I had never felt so long as she has US passport,” he says. registered in the local elec- signed exclusively for students. The every year, according to recent surveys. out of place at a job. Because I had nev- Although he’s already been in the tions… and new symptoms program is approved and supported er worked in a restaurant before, every- States for eight months, Nash does not of the same disease are obvi- by the US government and allows stu- MIGRANT STRUGGLE thing was new and strange to me. It was feel any nostalgia for home since he is ous,” Živković said. dents to work during the summer holi- very hard at first, but I knew I couldn’t in touch with family and friends regu- Živković added that the New days in the United States for up to four Although the US has a reputation as take a step back. I had to keep pushing larly. Party has formed a "Centre months. Students can use a fifth month migrant ‘melting pot’, it still takes a lot of forward,” Nevena says. “I’m on the phone with them a lot, so for the prevention of theft and violence in the elections". for travelling. courage for Balkan youngsters to leave A few months later she signed up I’m not feeling any ‘home sicknesses’ However, Milovan Drecun, a The programme aims to allow stu- family and friends and cross the Atlantic. with a beauty school and later found a yet. I know why I’m here,” Nash says. deputy for the ruling Serbian dents to gain rich experience, explore Stefan S., a mechanical engineer- second job in a beauty spa centre. She “And, in a way, I never betrayed the Progressive Party, said the new cultures, customs and ways of life, ing student in Belgrade, mustered the does not plan on returning to Serbia. agency and the student programme opposition was just seeking as well as acquiring new friendships. courage and applied for the ‘escape’ Well, maybe only for a short visit to that I applied for. Literally, I’m still work- an alibi for their inevitable bad Well, that’s according to brochures of program. friends and family. ing & traveling,” he concluded. election results. 4 BELGRADE INSIGHT, Friday, February 05 - Wednesday, February 17, 2016 BELGRADE INSIGHT, Friday, February 05 - Wednesday, February 17, 2016 5 BELGRADE BELGRADE

Belgrade Chinese through the Belgrade's metro eyes of a Gen Y pledge investments In the era of Tinder and Snapchat, potential underused is romance what it used to be? to Serbian capital

I can’t imagine that either of those winning introductions have been used very often in face-to-face en- counters- probably not even in the ancient art of letter writing.

Surely this can’t be the best represen- tation of 20-somethings’ approach to courtship? So, I went to ask a few people on the street what their most Emma KRSTIĆ memorable gestures of affection have been. alentine’s Day is a love-it or hate-it Chris, a 28-year-old Brit in Belgrade event. Now a heavily on business, said he once organised a marketed celebration treasure hunt for a girl he had a crush of love - for which on, involving shops and even hiring an everyoneV around the world seems to amateur actor to deliver ‘clues’ as she have gotten the memo that flowers, followed the trail he had mastermind- chocolates and teddy bears are to ed around London. (Wow.) Unfortu- be given as gifts – people like me nately his romantic efforts were in who do not buy in to the fuss would vain, but he gets full points for effort. argue that the day is not really about romance, but rather, that the day is a Another impressive display was mandatory commercial gesture. shown by a 23-year-old colleague who recalled the time he cycled While that might be true, the ques- under moonlight to his then girl- tion remains: is romance all that friend’s house and left a collection common on any other day of the of presents on her doorstep with a year either? loving message written on the pave- ment in chalk. Thinking back to my own experi- ences, the most ‘romantic’ gift I ever Bojan, a 25-year-old programmer, received was a stack of unmarked turned the tables. He thought the DVDs that someone had mysteri- time “she paid for the entire meal, ously left in my high-school locker. and the drinks. Everything,” was a They turned out to be the entire standout for him, but added: “Maybe not so romantic, but I appreciated it.” seven seasons of the American TV Belgrade’s Blok 70 hosts Chinese shops. Photo: Wikimedia Commons/Tajga series Gilmore Girls – my favourite at the time – which someone had spent Not bad. hours burning onto disks. But, that A state-owned Chinese company, already engaged in was seven-odd years ago now, and Stopping for a quick coffee, I sat as nothing has come close since, it down next to two men in their 60s. construction projects in Serbia, now plans more projects – makes me think that romance just As a comparison, I asked them the isn’t bestowed like it seems to have same question. including a Chinese cultural centre in Belgrade. been generations ago. “I do nice things a lot, but always small. Inside the Vukov Spomenik trail station. Photo: Wikimedia Commons hinese construc- will represent a bridge between China to get the deal done. The pair also dis- I pull out [the] chair, I hold the door While the digital world has made tion firm Shandong and Serbia,” Meng Yan, general manag- cussed the reconstruction and exten- dating extremely easy, it is not a open, carry bags home,” said Igor. Hi-Speed Group an- er with China Shandong International, sion of Belgrade’s landmark Yugoslavia The Belgrade Center rail system subway station. A woman reading a Plans for a Belgrade Metro appeared long history of empty promises and in- particularly romantic realm. The Long planned and nounced plans to build told the Belgrade-based Politika daily Hotel in Novi Beograd, which was also consolidation idea is not the only bold newspaper lays back comfortably in and disappeared throughout the 60s, action there is still enthusiasm for the chivalrous code appears to have Milan agreed: “Yes. I am the same. a Chinese cultural on February 1st. bombed in 1999. railway idea in Belgrade that is more her chair in the ticket booth. Nobody 70s and 80s but ground was never bro- idea. been forgotten. Would-be suitors I buy flowers not once, I buy them long delayed, the have used classic opening lines like often. That is what I do for my wife.” centre in Belgrade. The The planned cultural centre is lo- According to Serbia’s 2011 census, fantasy than fact. For decades, plans bothers to buy tickets because the ken. It was not until 1995 that the first Selmani Fahridi, a 70-year-old liv- ‘Would you rather fight 100 duck- ChineseC public enterprise is already cated in Novi Beograd at the site of the there are 1,373 Chinese people living Belgrade Metro for an intercity underground metro sys- ticket machines on the train are all two stations of the planned Metro were ing in Dorćol says that he's as excited sized horses or one horse-sized Well, no matter what happens building the long-awaited Corridor 11 former Chinese embassy destroyed by in the country. However, unofficial -es tem in Belgrade have existed to more broken. opened and the lines became part of the about the metro now as he was 50 duck?’ and ‘You’re stuck on a desert online, I’m comforted to know that highway that connects Belgrade with NATO air strikes in 1999. The centre is timates suggest thousands more Chi- still leaves a mark efficiently connect the far-flung corners Most people taking the train from Vu- state Beovoz railway system. Beyond years ago. island and can only have three there are still some romantic gentle- the South Adriatic. said to cover 24, 000 square metres of nese live in Belgrade. They mostly run of the city. If completed as envisioned, kov do so because it is the most efficient those two stations no other physical "When I was younger it was exciting albums with you. What are they?’ men left in the world! “Architects in China are currently land. private shops across the country. Many on the city that the Metro would ease congestion, speed way to cover a lot of ground. The Beovoz work has been done on the Belgrade to imagine trains going underground," working on the design of the future cul- Yan negotiated with Serbian infra- have learned the language, while some transport throughout the city and con- line running from Pančevo to Batajnica Metro. Selmani explains enthusiastically. He tural centre. It will look gorgeous and it structure minister Zorana Mihajlović also hold Serbian citizenship. most people don’t nect Belgrade to Serbia in new ways. and vice-versa is a quick way to travel Discussion of new plans, contract an- strongly believes that a metro can solve But, despite decades of ambitious across the city, since the ride lasts only nouncements and promises of immi- the city's major traffic jam problem. know about. announcements by city administra- around 40 minutes. A comparable bus nent construction are commonplace in "The metro can get you around faster, ORDER DELIVERY TO tion, only a single line of the planned ride takes over an hour. Belgrade. So much so, that few people there are no traffic jams and it is very YOUR DOOR Filip AVRAMOVIĆ Belgrade Metro exists, running between "I take the train almost every day, pay attention anymore, and as a result, eco-friendly.” Selmani says. “It runs on Pančevo and Batajnica. In reality, and in usually during work days. I travel from most Belgraders have grown accus- electricity so that is a big plus in my Find your copy of +381 11 4030 303 [email protected] erbian Prime Minister Alek- practice, the Belgrade Metro is still just Zemun to Vukov Spomenik because of tomed to using the bus, even if they trav- book,” he added. Belgrade Insight here: http://www.balkaninsight.com/en/ sandar Vučić made a series an idea. school," Nikola Đurđević, a 17-year-old el to a destination accessible by train. The city trains travel quicker at the page/subscribe-to-belgrade-insight of bold announcements at What does exist of the Belgrade Metro student from Zemun says. same price as buses and trams because the opening ceremony of is a hidden slice of convenience that "It takes me around 20 minutes to get UNKNOWN BENEFITS BusPlus rules apply, but according to the renovated Prokop train even locals don’t know much about. to my destination. That's a lot faster than commuters nobody checks tickets since station in Belgrade on Jan- taking the bus," Nikola explains. There is a marked lack of familiar- machines are usually broken or missing. th SUPERMARKET CONCEPT STORE HOTEL EXCELSIOR HOTEL JUMP INN TOURIST ORGANISATION OF SERBIA THE BRITISH INTERNATIONAL Suary 26 . LONELY STATION ity with the urban train system and Along with faster travel times, this Address: Višnjićeva 10 Address: Kneza Miloša 5 Address: Koče Popovića 2a Address: Čika Ljubina 8 SCHOOL OF BELGRADE Prokop, the future Belgrade Center LONG HISTORY OF PLANS its conveniences. Trains leave Vukov seems to be the main reason why some Address: Smetanina 12 main railway station, was finally open- On the northwest corner of Vukov Spomenik every 15 minutes during peak people take the train. MONUMENT HOTEL HYATT BISTRO BAR NATIONAL FAOUNDATION ing after forty years of start and stop Spomenik park a very long pair of es- Expedience is the key idea behind the times and every 30 minutes when traffic Some pay for the ticket only because Address: Čika Ljubina 9 Address: Milentija Popovića 5 Address: Vojvode Stepe 198 FOR DANCE RADISSON BLU OLD construction and decades of financial calators take you deep underground to Belgrade Metro system. The idea for an is operating normally, but most of peo- they travel by train for one part of the Address: Kolarčeva 3 MILL HOTEL, BELGRADE shortfalls. Eventually, the Belgrade Cent- a subway station. The Vukov Spomenik underground railway system connect- ple don't know that. road and then take the bus or tram. HOTEL MOSKVA HOTEL CROWN PLAZA FORCED2THINK Address: Bulevar Vojvode Misica 15 er will be the hub for Serbia’s rail system is one of two stations, along with one at ing various parts of Belgrade first ap- "I don't use the train at all. I think it "I don't pay for the ticket, nobody asks Address: Balkanska 1 Address: Vladimira Popovića 10 Address: Požeška 42 RESTAURANT BIZU www.radissonblu.com/hotel-belgrade and relieve railway congestion from the Karagorgeva park, built in Belgrade in peared early in the 20th century as part goes once every hour," says Aleksandra, you for one," student Nikola Đurđević Address: Andre Nikolića 1-3 main train station in the city centre. anticipation of a Metro system but are of architect Đorđe Kovaljevski’s "Gener- a 22-year-old student waiting for the bus says. HOTEL SQUARE NINE HOTEL VOZAREV INTERGALACTIC DINNER While major work is still needed on now used for Beovoz trains. al Plan", an urbanization and moderni- near Vukov. Her opinion about the city Whatever the reason for taking the Address: Studentski trg 9 Address: Pop Stojanova 16 Address: Internacionalnih brigada 22 CAFE CAFFELOUNGE the station and rail lines, and the entire Located near numerous educational zation concept for Belgrade developed train changed once she learned that the train, Belgraders will have to wait quite Address: Hotel Jugoslavija, Bulevar Address: Vase Pelagića 48 Serbian rail renovation project is far faculties, Vukov Spomenik is one of the in 1923. train operates more frequently. some time for any progress on build- CAFE SNEŽANA HOTEL LE PETIT PIAFF Mihajla Pupina 85A from complete, Vučić metaphorically most popular stations but it is underu- A metro system was first officially "I will definitely use the train more ing a true metro system in the city. An Address: Knez Mihailova 50 Restaurant Mali vrabac INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL OF BELGRADE tied completion of the renovation pro- tilized as not many people are aware mentioned in the general urban plan often. I really wasn't aware it works like 800-million euro project between the Address: Skadarska 34 MIXER HOUSE Address: Temišvarska 19 ject to Serbia’s future. how traveling by train around Belgrade from 1950 and according to the newspa- that, and I've been living here my whole city of Belgrade and French companies KOLARAC Address: Karađorđeva 46 “We know where we are going and could pay off. per "Vreme" it was considered the "only life," Aleksandra added. to build a metro is supposed to start in Address: Kolarčeva 7 Address: Studentski trg 5 HOTEL MERIOT KNJIŽARA APROPO where we are going to get," Vučić said, On a recent afternoon, not much reasonable plan in the whole of urbanis- Despite mixed, or ambivalent, feel- 2016, but that’s a promise Belgraders Address: Vase Čarapića 2-4 Address: Cara Lazara 10 adding “everyone must pay for the ticket." is happening in the stylish, modern tic history of Belgrade.” ings about the Belgrade Metro, and a have heard before. 6 BELGRADE INSIGHT, Friday, February 05 - Wednesday, February 17, 2016 BELGRADE INSIGHT, Friday, February 05 - Wednesday, February 17, 2016 7 BELGRADE BUSINESS

Belgrade welcomed 800,000 visitors in 2015 Reforms According to the latest Belgrade’s ancient report published by the City of Belgrade’s statistics office, a total of 782,635 and investments key people visited the Serbian in brief Belgrade capital in 2015. Of that crafts guardians number, around 646,778 were foreign nationals. This amounts to a nine per Kiri took the shop over in the early to accelerating Serbia’s cent increase in domestic 1980s and no matter the circumstanc- and a ten per cent rise in es, the most important thing, he argues, is keeping the shop very much alive. foreign tourists visiting the “We have somehow always managed capital. The biggest group to survive. My grandfather used to say economic growth of foreign tourists visiting that you cannot get rich out of a craft, the city last year came ‘but you can always live from that’,” he from Turkey, followed says, looking around the shop. Higher growth pends on investment and exports, said by Croatia, Slovenia, It’s an idea that Kiri has taken to Gligorov. “For example, it would require Germany and Bosnia and heart. He began producing traditional rates for Serbia that investments and exports increase Herzegovina. national costumes at the shop in the at the rate of 6 per cent, to achieve the New bus route opens early 2000s, and the concept proved can only be GDP growth rate of 2 per cent.” Belgrade city authorities a good one. The shop now produces “The increase in private consump- announced the new 36 bus costumes for films, TV shows and achieved if the tion would help, because it makes route will begin operating folklore associations. Costumes now around 80 per cent of GDP, as well as as of February 5th. The 36 make up a significant part of the busi- pace of reforms the public investment (…) Of course, if bus route starting point ness. the consumption would be increased will be at the recently- It all started when his friends asked is sustained and due to elections or other reasons, this renovated Prokop railway rather a silly question, Kiri recalls. “Peo- would also accelerate growth”, he ex- station and the aim is to ple would ask me – hey why don’t you more investors are plained. connect the station to sell [traditional woolen] socks? “If you other parts of the Serbian know how to make opanci, then you attracted to Serbia. NO ROOM FOR COMPLACENCY capital. also know how to tailor trousers!” “As if that was the same thing,” he Serbia must keep an eye on invest- City says, laughing. ments and exports and stay on the re- pledges form path if it is to increase GDP beyond to solve hostels SURVIVING WARS Stevan VELJOVIĆ current levels of minimal growth, and problem enter the phase of “dynamic growth” that While Kiri’s father and grandfather fter several years of government officials often talk about. Belgrade City Manager owned a shop in the Belgrade subur- weak economic per- “To start, 2 per cent growth and Goran Vesić said that ban settlement of Umčari, Kiri opened formance, 2015 may around €2 billion in foreign direct in- the local assembly will his own in Belgrade in 1981. Kiri sees be remembered as vestment, FDI, this year would be a approve new procedures one key difference between the three the year when Serbia’s good result,” said Vučković. “Serbia next month relating to the generations. economic recovery would finally reach the level of activ- opening of hostels in public “Between the two wars [WWI and Astarted. ity from 2008 and create good basis buildings. The move comes WWII], the footwear craft was bloom- Serbia exceeded expectations with for even more dynamic growth rates,” after city authorities formed ing. Around 90 per cent of people wore modest growth of 0.8 per cent in 2015 he said, adding it is important that FDI a working group following opanci and 19 such shops existed in despite austerity measures in the public doesn’t drop below €2 billion. a series of complaints Umčare only,” Kiri says. sector. The 2015 budget had projected a By November 2015, foreign direct in- from local residents. “All Also, he continues, craftsmen used negative growth rate of 0.5 per cent. vestments in Serbia reached €1.57 bil- to compete amongst themselves: who In January, Serbian Prime minister lion, the best result since 2011. the hostels…will have could make the smallest opanci and Aleksandar Vučić said growth less than Vučković insisted that main sources to have consent from the Kiri took the shop over in the early 1980s. Photo: BIRN who was the best maestro for exam- minimum 2 per cent growth in 2016 of growth will be exports and invest- tenants’ assembly [before ple. Nowadays however there is only a and three per cent in 2017 is unsatisfac- ment, which are connected with public opening in their respective tumes at the handful of such shops across Serbia. tory. debt management and efforts to im- buildings]. We will not A traditional two huge We have However, things changed when the “Serbia can be satisfied with its [GDP] prove business environment with fur- issue any new consents looms. communists took over in Yugoslavia at growth rate, having in mind that coun- ther reforms. enabling opening of hostels shoe-making Kiri is a somehow the end of WWII. People making classic tries like Italy or Austria have similar “This means that our institutions, first without the prior consent of shop is finding a vibrant man opanci were branded as ‘kulak,’ mean- or slightly higher rates, while Finland, of all courts, have to be more efficient, tenants,” Vesić said, adding in his fif- always managed ing they were capitalists and became although 20 times more developed, number of employees in the public that a new law on housing way to survive ties who has enemies of the regime. But modern has half less growth rate”, he told Pink sector reduced, and state companies will also be adopted by the spent his life producing opanci. It’s a to survive. My shoemakervs were part of proletariat, television in an interview. more efficient in their operations,” he end of February. and thrive in the craft he learned from his father and and therefore welcome in the new Yu- Experts say that higher rates of explained. his grandfather before him, and he grandfather used goslav communist society. growth in 2016 seem realistic provided Asked how much of this develop- Mayor modern world. looks proudly on what his family has “My grandfather also knew a shoe- the pace of economic and political re- ment is driven by the recovery in the promises achieved so far. making craft so until 1950s he focused forms is sustained over the next few EU, Vučković said it is important that tougher safety to say that you Now, a fourth Although times have changed a lot only on that. But after 1950s, the Yugo- years. the EU stays afloat economically and rules for splavs in the near-century that the Aleksić slav borders opened to foreigners and However, with GDP of €33 billion and politically. generation of family has been producing opanci by cannot get rich my family started selling opanci as on around €4.600 GDP per capita, Serbia Nikolić noted that, while Serbia’s current growth may be modest, it is no longer driven by consumption. Photo: Media Centre Belgrade Vladimir Gligorov insisted that more Belgrade Mayor Siniša hand– including a shift from opanci to the Croatian coast,” Kiri says. needs to have several years of strong robust growth, for example of 4 per Mali announced the city the family is modern shoes -- Kiri isn’t worried that out of a craft, ‘but Kiri was doing the same until the growth if citizens are to feel the benefits The experts explain that, apart from Serbia’s growth rates regularly ed growth, while the other half is sup- cent, is important to increase employ- assembly is to consider this family tradition will cease to exist. wars in Yugoslavia broke out in 1991. of the economic recovery. the significant impact of the 2014 floods reached or exceeded 5 or 6 per cent be- posed to be achieved through continu- ment, and to ease fiscal consolidation, imposing new public preparing to take “My elder daughter Katarina holds a you can always “From around 1985 to 1990 I could live on Serbia’s economy, consolidation is fore the 2008 financial crisis, but since ation of modest economic recovery,” so there is more space in the budget to safety regulations on the master degree from the Faculty of Or- decently but it was hard during the LAGGING the main reason Serbia lags behind re- 2009 the economy has gone into reces- Vučković said, adding that prediction support education, science, innovation city’s splavs – moored the reins. ganizational Sciences and she works live from that’.” 1990s. Luckily, I also have the shoe- BEHIND THE REGION gional growth rates. sion three times. Consumer consump- rests on stable economic and political and development. party boats - following here. I think she will continue working making craft so I was mostly doing “The austerity measures affect both tion and loans drove prior growth, an conditions, both in Serbia and interna- “If we’d sustain the level of invest- the Olimpik splav blaze on Ivana NIKOLIĆ here and take over at some point,” says that.” Serbia’s 2015 results seem less suc- public and private consumption by unsustainable long-term model. tional. ments, and increase exports, this would January 29th. While there Kiri. cessful when compared to other coun- reducing them,” Vladimir Gligorov, Economist Goran Nikolić noted that, Goran Nikolić also believes that Ser- create a spill-over in employment, were no fatalities in the ijomir Aleksić – When she does, she’ll be the fourth Mijomir Aleksić Kiri NO REGRETS tries in the region. associate of the Vienna Institute for while Serbia’s current growth may be bia’s economy will perform better this incomes and private consumption. Olimpik fire, Mali said: “It better known as generation of the Aleksić family to In its South East Europe Regular Eco- International Economic Studies, said. modest, it is no longer driven by con- year, predicting growth rate between In that case, with the increase of con- is a fact that no one has Kiri – beams with carry on the traditional handicraft, and only footwear available in Serbia and Despite political changes and wars nomic Report, the World Bank predict- “The fiscal consolidation introduced sumption. 1.6 and 2 per cent. sumption of one to two per cent, eco- th been dealing with the splav pride as he talks will continue as one of the few hand- the rest of the region until the mid-20 in the former Yugoslavia throughout ed that six economies of the Western through cuts in salary and pensions “This might not be the case for all the Apart from yields in agriculture as nomic growth could accelerate above organisations for a long to a visitor in his crafted shoe producers left in Serbia. century. the years, Kiri’s shop has grown into a Balkans would pick up from an average slowed down the reform of public sec- countries in the region,” he noted. the most influential factor, Nikolić ex- three per cent annually,” said Gligorov. time and that is why these atelier in the Bel- Kiri’s grandfather started hand-mak- small factory currently employing nine of 0.3 per cent in 2014 to 1.8 per cent in tor.” Most experts see government expec- pects that minimum growth in indus- “Of course, to sustain the increase in Mgrade suburb of Kaluđerica. The main TRADITIONAL ATTIRE ing the leather shoes some time in the people. That success is a source of pride 2015, with predictions of 2.6 per cent av- Since November 2014, the earnings tations for 2016 as realistic, albeit some trial production, services and exports investments, we need market oriented things are happening. room of the shop is filled with tradition- early 1920s. From the beginning, the and security for Kiri. erage GDP growth rate in 2016-2017. of Serbian pensioners and public sec- offer scepticism. should contribute to reaching growth reforms and increased efficiency in the That is why we will pass a al footwear called opanci, in all sizes Quaint and old-fashioned look- entire process has been done by hand “I remember when I opened a shop The report noted that in 2014, Serbia tor employees earning more than RSD Vladimir Vučković, a member of the targets. public sector,“ he added. decision that will regulate and types, and the warm smell of fresh ing, opanci are peasant leather shoes in the exact same way as it was done for after finishing high school my friends was the only economy in the region to 25,000 [around 200€] were reduced, as Fiscal Council, the independent body However, Vladimir Gligorov is less He warned that the reform of the the distance of splavs leather is heavy in the air. fastened around the leg with a strap. centuries. were teasing me, saying it is funny and register negative growth, while the re- part of austerity measures that the gov- charged with assessing public financ- optimistic, believing that any result public sector could affect the growth from bridges, and will also The shop that bears his name is fully Coming in all sizes, shapes, types and The family business has had many stupid,” he recalls.” But years later, they gion’s faster growing economies – Alba- ernment introduced to reduce soaring es, considers predictions of 2 per cent above one per cent of growth would be negatively if it is not performed ade- regulate necessary fire stocked with handmade leather shoes adorned with various fashion acces- ups and downs since its founding near- were made redundant and I am still nia, Kosovo, FYR Macedonia and Mon- public debt. growth rate realistic. a success. quately and quickly. protection.” The new safety and regional national costumes. One sories, opanci are no longer in regular ly a hundred years ago: it has witnessed running my shop,” he adds. tenegro are expected to see growth “This didn’t help the growth and will “These predictions are based on the “If fiscal consolidation continues, “This reform is, along with the finan- regulations are expected to of the rooms is ‘occupied’ by two men use but are now mostly used either by one world war and the wars in the for- “I was right when I said opanci are of roughly 3% or higher in 2015-2016. probably have a negative effect over expectation that the [2016] agricultural which means that public consumption cial consolidation, most important for be approved soon. hand-making new pairs of opanci. Up- traditional folklore dancers or sold as mer Yugoslavia, as well as numerous shoes for 21st century,” Kiri concludes Serbia’s growth in the same period was the next few years if reforms don’t start season will be more successful. This will be reduced, and there is no increase the acceleration of the economic growth stairs, several ladies are sewing cos- Serbian souvenirs. Opanci were the regime and clientele changes. with a huge smile. expected to be 0.5 percent. quickly,” explained Gligorov. would create around half of the expect- in private consumption, everything de- in the long term,” Gligorov concluded. 8 BELGRADE INSIGHT, Friday, February 05 - Wednesday, February 17, 2016 BELGRADE INSIGHT, Friday, February 05 - Wednesday, February 17, 2016 9 REGION OUT AND ABOUT

Continued from page 1 Worshipping guardian Constitutional courts of wine

hile people face crisis across Balkans across the globe celebrate anuary 9th marks the day SERBS PREFER TO WSt Valentine’s Day, some in 1992 when Bosnian Serb GO TO STRASBOURG Serbians prefer honouring politicians proclaimed an St. Trifun – the patron saint independent entity, which Unsatisfied with the work of their Con- of wine and grapevines. also touched off three years stitutional Court, citizens of Serbia have of bloody warfare. The date increasingly sought legal protection and If you feel like St. Valen- Jis also an Orthodox Church holiday, the justice from the European Court of Hu- tine’s Day is a meaningless, feast day of St Stephen, which was the man Rights. and expensive, marketing main reason why the Court ruled that the With 12,000 appeals filed by Serbian gimmick, perhaps you can holiday discriminated against people of citizens, Serbia is among five top coun- celebrate something new other ethnic and religious backgrounds. tries in terms of submissions to this court. this February 14th. On that "They can stick this decision you know “The Constitutional court should be date, Serbs traditionally where,” Republika Srpska President, Milo- independent and autonomous, but it is celebrate St. Trifun’s day by rad Dodik, said in response to the court's obvious that it is under the influence of drinking- a lot. decision. the government," Zoran Ivošević, a legal All Bosnian Serb parties have rejected expert and former president of the Su- Why celebrate his day with the ruling and have vowed to “protect” preme Court, told BIRN. booze? St. Trifun is tradi- the national holiday, pointedly organ- “There was political influence [on the tionally seen as the patron izing a lavish celebration of the national court] even before, but in recent times saint of wine, wine makers day on January 9th, 2016. this has increased,” he added. and restaurateurs. But who Few weeks later Serb leaders proposed According to him, one flagrant recent was he and how do people to the state parliament changes to the example of a court ruling in favour of the mark his day? law on the Constitutional Court, aimed government concerned the 2014 decision at changing its composition by remov- of government to unilaterally impose The Serbian Orthodox ing the three foreign judges who together cuts on the public sector, including cuts Church praises St. Trifun with two Bosniak, two Croat and two Serb in salaries by 10 per cent and of pensions as a martyr. According to judges make up the court. of 25 per cent. tradition, he was a healer If this proposal is rejected, the RS These measures prompted to pension- of the possessed and was leadership, as it had already pledged, is ers associations to appeal to the Consti- murdered at 18. Religious expected to launch a referendum on the tutional Court to review the law. The ap- books say he was executed court’s powers. peal - which cannot be appealed further in 250 A.D. in Nicea and Experts, international organizations - was rejected, after which thousands of buried in the village of and diplomats have warned that such disgruntled workers and pensioners took Campsada in Phrygia, a referendum initiative would violate the their cases to the next level - the Stras- kingdom in the west cen- terms of the 1995 Dayton peace agree- bourg-based European Court of Human tral part of Anatolia, now ment since the work of the Constitutional Rights. present day Turkey. Court does not come under the RS’s juris- Additional public frustrations were diction. They have called for the Constitu- sparked by the controversial decision However, other historical tional Court’s decisions to be respected. of the Constitutional Court in December Jelić’s first bit of advice is to physically prepare for the fair. Photo: Facebook sources claim Venetian This was not the only case of disre- 2014, when it said it had no jurisdiction traders carried his remains spect for the authority of the Constitu- to rule on the opposition appeal which to Kotor, a town in Monte- tional Court, however. challenged constitutionality of nego- negro, some time in eighth According to the Court’s data, different Serbian Constitutional Court in Belgrade. Photo: Constitutional Court of Serbia tiations between Serbian and Kosovo century. A cathedral was institutions and citizens have ignored 91 authorities. built in 809 AD at his burial of its decisions since 2004. Mato Palić, constitutional law profes- sion, but the KPA said it could not do so. VMRO DPMNE party and its president The opposition Democratic Party spot. It officially opened The State Prosecution, which has a sor at the Law School in the city of Osijek, After the deadline expired, Moratti said, Nikola Gruevski. of Serbia filed the appeal. Slobodan Getting the most only in 1166 and it is still a duty to launch legal actions against those told BIRN that it is uncertain whether the “We expected some robust action, some In 2009 and 2010, the Court annulled Samardžić, who filed the request on be- treasured landmark in Ko- who violate Constitutional Court orders, new majority in parliament will resolve concrete follow-up from the Court, but several government programmes, includ- half of this party, said that agreements tor. Many families in Serbia has ignored this problem and done noth- the problem. nothing really happened.” ing those aimed to hike benefits to par- between Serbia and Kosovo violated the and Montenegro celebrate ing against violators. “It is very hard to predict what will hap- The 2015 case resulted in a similar ver- ents living in regions with low birth rates Serbian constitution, which stipulates St. Trifun as a family pa- pen," Palić said, adding that some mem- dict. The deadline expires in February. and introduce religious education in pri- that Kosovo - which declared independ- out of the Beowine Fair tron. GROWING SHORTAGE OF bers of both majority and minority blocs “Frankly, we don't have many hopes that mary schools. ence in 2008 - is a part of Serbia. JUDGES IN CROATIA in parliament believe Croatia does not this will change the situation,” Moratti said. It also struck down some elements of In its explanation the Court stated that Visitors can be forgiven for not know- mon varieties like Merlot, Cabernet or the international market after falling Winegrowers adopted St. need a Constitutional Court. To make matters worse, because Ko- Skopje 2014, the government’s expensive this agreement was a “political issue, and With the ing where to start; there are hundreds Chardonnay when confronted with so out of favour in the last 60 years. Bal- Trifun as a patron saint In Croatia, several politicians and politi- "A small number of EU states have no sovo is neither a member of the Council makeover of the capital. not a legal one”. of wines to taste at the Beowine Fair many choices. kan wines were considered some of the because they tradition- cal parties have proposed abolition of the constitutional court but Croatia needs of Europe, nor a signatory to UN human Gruevski on several occasions at- Serbia, which is about to open negotia- popular wine and not nearly enough time to try “My idea is to try all new wines, either best in Europe for hundreds of years, ally begin working their Constitutional Court, in an apparent at- one as an instrument limiting the power rights treaties, people have no access to tacked the court and accused its judges tions with the EU regarding its rule of law, them all. Vineyards from across the from lesser known wineries or new but quality dropped during the social- vineyards on February 14th. tempt to increase the Croatian government of the government and parliament," Palić international judicial institutions for hu- of being puppets in the hands of the op- is expected to reform its judiciary, which fair returning Balkans - from Slovenia to Greece - are vintages from the already established ist era after World War Two. To prepare for spring, they and parliament’s control over key issues. concluded. man rights issues. position Social Democrats. is perceived to be under political influ- represented. Producers showcase both players. It means not only playing The challenges and economic col- would prune vines and Even without such initiatives, the work "In legal terms, the situation of Kosovo When this pressure failed to bring the ence. to the capital indigenous and international varieties, around with the usual suspects but also lapses of the 90s delayed the re-emer- water them with wine. It is of the Constitutional Court may face seri- COURT RULINGS NOT is a [black] hole for what concerns the pro- Court under government control, the “Constitutional changes are needed to this month, one and the array of choices can be dizzy- courageously ‘dancing’ with the new gence of a world-class viniculture in the said wine watering encour- ous trouble later this year, since the man- EXECUTED IN KOSOVO tection of Human Rights,” Moratti said. State Lustration Commission - ordered address issues of importance for the ac- ing, especially for people not familiar kids on the block,” Jelić recommends. region until about ten years ago. Balkan ages vine blooming. date of some of its judges expires by June Fisnik Korenica, director of the Group to root out alleged ex-communist police cession negotiations,” the EU’s 2015 pro- expert offers tips with Balkan wine. For consumers, the Beowine Fair is wines are now critically acclaimed and the appointment of new judges is As in Bosnia, Kosovo has three interna- for Legal and Political Studies, says that informants from public office - launched gress report for Serbia, said. To help navigate the wine fair, BIRN an opportunity to sample and learn both for their production and unique In some places, St. Trifun problematic. tional judges serving on its Constitutional Constitutional Court verdicts are also an inquiry into the Court's President, “Rule of law implies that a country for tasting wines asked noted Balkan wine expert Dušan about regional wine. For Serbia, the fair grape varieties. was honored with drink- According to the Constitution, the Con- Court, and there are also some flagrant sometimes ambiguous. Trendafil Ivanovski. has functioning institutions, that there Jelić for his advice on the best way to is serious business. When asked which of the local va- ing contests, earning the stitutional Court has 13 judges that make examples of non-implementation of “The government… tends to self-inter- Ivanovski was soon after pronounced is true separation of powers and that all that ‘represent enjoy the event. “Wine manufacturing and distribu- rieties visitors should try, Jelić recom- nickname “St. Trifun, the decisions by a simple majority. court rulings, mostly related to ensuring pret the decisions in a manner that is not a former police informant and thus unfit citizens are treated equally before the Jelić, founder of the Wines of the Bal- tion is one of the most growing indus- mended Serbian Prokupac and Dal- Drunk.” Things are calmer Changes in 2010 established more the return of people to their homes. what the Court implicitly said,” he said. to work as a judge. law, have equal rights and equal chances the soul of the kans, a digital wine marketing agency, trial branches in Serbia,” says Nikola matian Plavac Mali for red wines, and now, but most rituals for St. stringent regulations for the appointment The Kosovo Property Agency, KPA, “Therefore, judicial vagueness is often The final step towards taking over to defend their rights,” Transparency In- wine blogger and frequent tasting Andrić, head of the commercial depart- Tamjanika, Pošip or Žilavka from white Trifun’s still involve drinking of judges, which now require a two-thirds which is tasked with enabling the return tolerated intentionally by the court itself, control over the Constitutional Court ternational said in its written statement region’. judge at competitions throughout the ment at the Belgrade Fair. “Serbia shows varieties. wine. majority in parliament rather than a sim- of people displaced during the war to and often results in a deviation from the took place in April 2012, when the VMRO to BIRN. region, emailed some tips. His first bit of all of the conditions to become an im- “This is not to say that I am not rec- ple majority, which was the case before their houses, has no budget to ensure that main meaning that the court intended to DPMNE party pushed forward the elec- “In the Western Balkans to date, what advice is to physically prepare. portant destination on the wine map ommending top wines made from in- Still, apart from the Church 2010. such Court decisions are implemented, give in such ruling.” tion of three new judges, who the opposi- we see is a very strong Executive that “This will be a time-consuming ex- of the world, as well as enhancing the ternational varieties. I do,” says Jelić. and winegrowers, ordinary When the mandate of one of those which often require the demolition of il- Korenica blames this misinterpreta- tion called biased and unfit for the job. dominates all other institutions, a very Drew ADAMEK ercise. To enjoy this event fully, please economy through agriculture. “But this is important for first time visi- citizens do not pay much judges expired in 2010, parliament was legal builds. As a result, claimants are un- tion on abstract judgments and the im- Since then, the Constitutional Court weak Legislature that is not independent, have a long night’s sleep before hitting Serbian wines will be the largest rep- tors as these varieties are indigenous attention to the saint’s day. unable to agree on the appointment of a able to return home and court decisions maturity of the political elites. has supported all disputed government as well as a Judiciary that for the most he Beowine Fair can be the fair,” says Jelić. “Have a good meal resented group of wine producers, with and they truly represent the identity, Younger generations have successor, so the position has remained end up ignored. policies, including the controversial pro- part is not in the position to fulfil its cru- a daunting challenge upfront, so that your body can take up 60 of the 100 stands showcasing wines soul and pride of the region and the re- embraced St Valentine’s, vacant and the Court has operated with Property lawyer Massimo Moratti MACEDONIAN RULING PARTY cess of lustration that it once withstood. cial role,” it warned. for connoisseurs and and absorb some extra wine. Then go from Serbia. This year’s fair will also spective countries.” and few now know the only 12 judges since then. helped bring two claims in 2013 and 2015 BRINGS COURT TO HEEL Ivanovski, who claims he was a victim wine novices alike. and discover new wines, socialise with feature a higher number of brandy pro- The annual Beowine Fair is held to- other saint revered on Feb- By June, the mandates of six more before the Constitutional Court on behalf of a politically motivated retaliation, last Over 100 Balkan wine people and drink copious amounts of ducers than normal to compensate for gether with the International Tourism ruary 14th. But, if you are so judges will expire. If no new judges are of displaced persons. The Court ruled in The Constitutional Court in Macedonia month won a case against Macedonia in producers, vineyards water.” low wine stocks caused by poor grow- Fair at the Belgrade Sajam. The fair runs inclined, do grab a bottle of appointed, the Constitutional Court will favour of the applicants in both cases. was long perceived as the last independ- the European Court for Human Rights in Marija Ristić, Fatjona Mejdini, Srećko La- Tand equipment manufacturers gather Jelić suggests fairgoers keep an open ing conditions in 2014, says Andrić. from February 19th to 22nd. Entrance is wine and raise a toast to St. comprise only six judges and be unable In the 2013 decision, the Court gave the ent institution that dared to oppose the Strasbourg, which ruled that the process tal, Sven Milekić, Valerie Hopkins and Siniša at the Belgrade Sajam for four days of mind while looking for wines to try. He Balkan wines, and Serbian wines in free, however, there is a 300 dinar [2.5 Trifun! to make decisions. KPA three months to enforce its own deci- authoritarian tendencies of the ruling against him had indeed been unfair. Jakov Marušić contributed to this article. tastings, seminars and workshops. says it can be easy to just go with com- particular, are making a comeback on euro] charge for a tasting glass. 10 BELGRADE INSIGHT, Friday, February 05 - Wednesday, February 17, 2016 BELGRADE INSIGHT, Friday, February 05 - Wednesday, February 17, 2016 11 ARTS DINING OUT

Belgrade, Novi Opera, Ballet Sad team up for and Classical Fiddler on the Roof th Credo production FRIDAY FEBRUARY 5 Soak up the It always begins Belgrade Philharmonic Orchestra The Novi Sad-based Serbian with Cristian Mandeal – conductor and with a simple Johannes Moser – cello, Ilija M. Kolarac National Theatre, in a co-pro- Arts in brief Endowment, Studentski Trg 5, 8pm question: ‘Can you Corner Wine duction with Novi Sad Theatre, th tour-star vibe in Credo is bringing one of the best SATURDAY FEBRUARY 6 bring me the wine productions of Fiddler on the Opera: La Traviata, The National Theatre, list’? Everything slices of tender but textured meat, just Roof Serbia has ever seen to Francuska 1, 7:30pm else that follows is what this breed if famous for. However, Belgrade. Audiences are in for RTS Symphonic Orchestra with Bojan Suđić - conductor, Ilija M. Kolarac a complex matter, it lacked seasoning and taste, falling a special treat; traditional Jew- Endowment, Studentski Trg 5, 8pm one step short from what it should be. ish music performers Budapest and cannot be Barley and beetroot combination SUNDAY FEBRUARY 7th Klezmer Band will be perform- measured only by sounded like a winter promise but also ing the score live. Tickets for Sofija Grek – mezzosoprano and Sanja turned out a disappointment. It came th Stefanović - piano, Ilija M. Kolarac how much is left plain, airline style: barley and beetroot the February 19 show at Sava Endowment, Studentski Trg 5, 11am Centre cost between eight and in the bottle after cooked al dente, paired wrongly with th €12 depending on seating. MONDAY FEBRUARY 8 dinner. lettuce, everything unseasoned. Shak- en but undeterred, we went on to the Mina Marković – soprano, Nataša Rašić mains. Luz Casal announces – mezzosoprano and Dušan Marković Pavle GOLICIN “Humidity” to open – piano, Belgrade Cultural Centre, Trg Boletus mushrooms risotto was an Guitar Art Festival ap- Republike 5, 8pm ollowing the recent interesting take on the classic dish. The pearance th Dalida Grmuša – piano and Aleksandra mushrooms were not cooked with the Latinović – violin, Belgrade Cultural trend of eating at hotel 44 annual FEST Centre, Trg Republike 5, 9pm restaurants – quite rice but grilled and served on the top Internationally renowned a few have recently of the risotto, along with steamed broc- th th Spanish singer Luz Casal FEST kicks off February on 26 Photo: Beta TUESDAY FEBRUARY 9 opened in Belgrade coli flowers. The mushrooms tasted th will be performing at the 17 Ballet: The Picture of Dorian Gray, The – we decided to visit great - rich and earthy, although the very strong, both political and artistic National Theatre, Francuska 1, 7:30pm Fthe Courtyard Marriott hotel and slices were few and far between. Rib- annual Guitar Art Festival in Belgrade filmmaker Nikola Ljuca’s messages. its signature restaurant Credo. eye steak was average, tenderness Belgrade. She is among the WEDNESDAY FEBRUARY 10th Located in the former Jugodrvo The festival programme is as robust not being one of its qualities. A fantas- first performers announced for building, next to the National debut feature film opens the annual as ever, with a total of 110 movies to be Guitar Duo Anonymous, Ilija M. Kolarac tic garnish saved this dish: the oven- the festival. Casal will take the Theatre and in front of the National shown within 12 different categories. Endowment, Studentski Trg 5, 6pm baked jacket potato, gently squashed Sava Centre stage on March Opera: Othello, The National Theatre, Museum, we were hoping to in- film festival. This year’s festival The competitive portion of the festival and soaked in kajmak, was every bit as 12th. The festival runs March Francuska 1, 7pm dulge in excellent food with a view th th will feature 15 films from all over the world. of the main city square. good as it sounds. 8 through 13 . Tickets range th theme examines the relationship Festival Art Director Jugoslav Pantelić THURSDAY FEBRUARY 11 The first impression on entering Although the pork cheek and ribs between €12 and €40. A also noted at the press conference that Vučković Music School, Vuk and Dositej the hotel raises my expectations of served with braised red cabbage and limited number of VIP seats are between art and borders. the festival is proud that many of the films Museum, Gospodar Jevremova 21, 6pm getting a prime fine dining experi- pumpkin sauce did not look as present- available for €55. featured in the main programme this year Ballet: Giselle, The National Theatre, ence with top notch service and able on the plate as the other dishes Francuska 1, 7:30pm David GALIĆ about the chance to open the festival were directed by women. quality ingredients. did, they turned to be the star of the However, the wine list at Credo Dunja Trutin with his new movie. He added that preparations for this SATURDAY FEBRUARY 12th show. The ribs were golden and crispy is rather limited and offers an aver- “compares space” nother year, another “The feeling of happiness and grati- year's festival began even before the on the outside, soft and tender on the Opera: The Barber of Seville, The age selection. The list has fewer FEST in Belgrade. The tude is deeper and more complex than I last one ended, adding that the deci- inside. The cheeks - a somewhat rare with exhibition National Theatre, Francuska 1, 7:30pm than 50 labels and only 10 are 2016 edition of the can put into words,” the director said at a sion to have “Humidity” open the festi- available by the glass. This surely delicacy in these parts - were soft and SUNDAY FEBRUARY 14th Up-and-coming Belgrade popular film festival, recent press conference for the festival. val was made at that time. Festival staff limits my possibilities to combine moist, melting in the mouth. The stew th sculptor and artist Dunja the 44 annual, will believed it would great to open up the Binički Art Ensemble, Ilija M. Kolarac wine with the food. and sauce complemented the meat Trutin opens her “Comparative open with the debut A TOPICAL THEME festival with an atypical Serbian movie. Endowment, Studentski Trg 5, 11am Apart from the usual suspects, beautifully and rounded up into a per- Ballet: Copelia, The National Theatre, Spaces” exhibition at Dom Afeature film of one of Belgrade's best An interesting addition to this year's the list includes local/regional and fect, hearty, seasonal dish. Francuska 1, 12pm up-and-coming young directors, Nikola Festival Council President and FEST is the children's programme, international brands ranging up to With mixed emotions, we ordered Omladine on February 9th. The Ljuca. City Culture Secretary, Vladan marking the first time movies for MONDAY FEBRUARY 15th the Super Tuscan Ornellaia. There just one dessert. Apple crumble with exhibition will be open to the Ljuca isn't a newcomer by any Vukosavljević, announced that this younger fans are included in the pro- are only a couple of exceptions baked almonds and Serbian rakija slot- st Leana Nikolov – violin, Jovana Nikolov public until February 21 . means; he has already directed sev- year’s festival slogan is “Erasing Bor- gramme. There will be movies for very to the typical offers on most wine ted perfectly into the rest of the experi- – piano, Belgrade Cultural Centre, Trg lists. One of them is produced by eral critically praised short films, but ders.” young children and films for teenagers Republike 5, 8pm ence: great idea, mediocre execution. the relatively new local winery Raj, Iranian Film “Humidity” is his first foray into feature Vukosavljević said that the ongo- included, according to Milica Šetka, Vuk Musterović – piano, Belgrade Espresso was very good but again there Cultural Centre, Trg Republike 5, 9pm available both by bottle and glass, Festival at Yugoslav film. ing migrant crisis in Europe surfaced of the Bambi Company, sponsor of which immediately caught my eye. was a “but”. A rock hard and practically th Film Archive “Humidity” is a thriller that follows in every conversation during planning the children’s programme. She added WEDNESDAY FEBRUARY 17 So, without hesitation, I go for their inedible biscuit accompanied the cof- the story of a young businessman and development of the festival. that “Juliet and Alfa Romeo” by Slove- Maria Ligeti Balint – piano, harpsichord, Gamay grape variety that is found fee. And not just on the side of the cup, The Yugoslav Film Archive is whose wife ends up missing. Petar, the “Our wish was to send a message that nian director Blaž Završnik is one of the Attila Balint – citra, Robert Balint – fagot, in the wine-famous Negotin region but in a small fancy bowl of its own. th main character, is determined to con- art erases borders, that FEST erased more interesting films for young adults Ilija M. Kolarac Endowment, Studentski in eastern Serbia where the winery In general, we spent a pleasant after- hosting the 15 annual Iranian Trg 5, 6pm tinue leading a normal life without any- borders instead of creating them and at this year's festival. is situated. Although being vibrant noon. The atmosphere was right and Film Festival. It lasts until Mon- Opera: Il Trovatore, The National Theatre, Photo: Facebook th and interesting on the nose, the day, February 8th. Two films, one noticing that his wife is nowhere to dealing with barbed wire and divisions. FEST opens on February 26 and Francuska 1, 7:30pm the view alone was well worth the visit. be found. Over the course of a week of We erase borders by inviting the most lasts until March 6th. Tickets are on sale Nemanja Bogunović – guitar, Ilija M. wine is rather short on the palate The menu is spot-on, but the kitchen mostly newer ones filmed after Kolarac Endowment, Studentski Trg 5, 8pm trying to live with this secret, his life is prominent artists from all over the at all of the city's biggest box offices and and lacks body to match meat- The interior is clean-cut, with straight A glimpse of the menu revealed that did not quite prove itself – most of our 2012, are shown every night, th based dishes. turned upside-down. world,” he said. ticket centres. Visit the festival's official THURSDAY FEBRUARY 18 The restaurant at lines and calming shades of grey. The Credo aims at modern Mediterranean dishes were less than memorable. with show times at 8pm and Despite the best efforts of the Ljuca, who grew up with FEST in Vukosavljević confirmed that many site to see the full programme: http:// furniture brings some colour and a cuisine. In line with current trends, the There is plenty of room for improve- 8:30pm. Entrance is free. Opera: Who’s That Singing Over There, staff at Credo to accommodate the new Marriott Belgrade, was incredibly enthusiastic of the films to be shown this year have www.fest.rs/home The National Theatre, Francuska 1, 7:30pm guests, there is definitely room classic vintage feel to the minimalistic menu is short but original and interest- ment in this area. The service was very for improvement. The glassware Courtyard hotel shell – an elegant and clean, universal, ing. good, just right for a four-star hotel. is average, especially for what worldwide applicable hotel style. However, the first auto goal came We would still recommend a visit to you might expect at this kind of has a great A small and simple Mediterranean in only seconds and caught us unpre- Credo. Pick a grey day, order the ribs, hotel. The same applies to the detail was added – flowerpots are dot- pared. The complimentary bread and and enjoy the elegant, cosmopolitan wine service and, bearing in mind atmosphere and ted all around, planted with baby olive cheese spread was far from tasty or atmosphere as Belgrade moves under the high-end mark-up, is below and orange trees and petite lavender inviting. Along with it came a pocket- your feet. If eating healthily is your con- expected standards. fine views - even bushes. It brings both joy and a casual sized factory package of olive oil, su- cern, you need not worry – nowadays The rather disappointing feel. We found it welcome in the Medi- permarket stuff apt for a portable fridge. sugar is the killer, not the fat. impression left by food apparently if the food doesn’t terranean restaurant area but some- We wondered how this fitted into the prepared in advance – some of the what unsuitable for the hotel main en- aspiring restaurant of a four-star hotel. dishes were literally half-frozen - quite live up to can only be partly compensated terance. Next came the starters. Thick tomato for by the beautiful view of the expectations. By far the boldest and most intrigu- soup with shrimps felt great on a cold Credo Restaurant & Bar city’s main square, which Credo ing item is a collection of contemporary day but tasted average. “An exhausted Courtyard by Marriott certainly offers. Yet again, it needs Serbian art, acquired through a public mother’s special,” as one of our party Belgrade City Centre to be said that you can get better contest held in collaboration with Miks- commented. Angus beef carpaccio Address: Vase Čarapića 2 value for money at many restau- Duda&Vlada er and showcasing young, fresh and rel- was good quality meat. It came in thin Condatct: +381 11 400 30 03 rants in town, especially those evant talents on the Serbian arts scene. where the trade-off between a nice eighbouring the Na- Pair the interior with the biggest location and good food goes in the tional Theatre and names of the Serbian jazz scene per- opposite direction. ONCE KOVAČ, ALWAYS KOVAČ overlooking the Na- forming in the evenings, and it becomes ONCE ”KAFANA”, ALWAYS ”KAFANA” tional Museum, the clear that Credo is positioning itself as a ~ ~ ~ RESTURANT KOVAČ new Courtyard by trendy, urban city-centre venue. modern ethno restaurant Basic Info Rating Marriott hotel enjoys We visited Credo on a clear, freezing None of the best locations in the city cen- winter day at lunchtime. The down- town was bustling with activity despite Overall Average tre. The hotel’s Mediterranean restau- the knee-deep snow, so the contrast Wine selection Average rant, Credo, has one of the best views could not have been greater: inside, we Wine service Average of Republic Square. A new angle to the found cosiness and calm. The restau- Wine pricing €25 - €430 well-known urban backdrop is just rant itself was scarcely full but the adja- what we were looking for as we em- cent lounge was well visited, with cou- barked on a new year of Belgrade res- ples chatting and solo guests reading Bulevar Oslobodjenja 221, Tel: 011 2462 343 Wine and food pairing Average www.restorankovac.com taurant reviews. newspapers… a great hotel atmosphere. 12 BELGRADE INSIGHT, Friday, February 05 - Wednesday, February 17, 2016 BELGRADE INSIGHT, Friday, February 05 - Wednesday, February 17, 2016 13 WHAT’S ON ON THE SPOT

Serbian CLUBBING jazz queen’s AND LIVE MUSIC album sells out fast he new album of Lena th th FRIDAY FEBRUARY 5 • Bokee and Marko Vuković/ FRIDAY FEBRUARY 12 • Massimo Savić, Sava Centre, • Aco Pejović, Cinema, Kovačević, a Belgrade- Gemini DJs/Luka Vuković Milentija Popovića 9, 8pm Gračanička 18, 11pm born but world-known • Ace Ventura Live in and Ivan Radojević, The • Pomeranze Takeover, • Ničim izazvan, Silente, jazz singer and composer, , Imago Cuk, Tube, Simina 21, 11pm Drugstore, Bulevar Despota Mikser House, Karađorđeva WEDNESDAY F th T Belgrade EBRUARY 17 has recently sold out in just over Dečanska 14, 11pm • Jump’n’Jive, Propaganda, Stefana 115, 11pm 46, 9pm a month - and the next one is • Miguel Bastida, The Tube, Gospodar Jevremova 7, 11pm • We Play Techno Festival: • Due Speciale, Akademija 28, • DJ Marko Radosavljević, expected in February. The album, Simina 21, 11pm • Cheers to the Weekend, Anna, Vladimir Aćić, Zwein, Nemanjina 28, 10pm Mr Stefan Braun, Nemanjina 4, published in late November, repre- • Feloneezy and Whisper All Plastic, Takovska 36, 11pm The Tube, Simina 21, 11pm • Nadimač, Casket and 10pm sents a homage to one of the most Night Long, Šećer, Svetogorska • It’s All About Music – • Tijana T All Night Long, 2044 Redenik, KST, Bulevar Kralja • Jarboli, Studentski Grad famous singers in the former Yugo- 17, 11pm Groovyman and Mee High boat on Sava river, 11pm Aleksandra 73, 10pm Cultural Centre, Bulevar slavia, Momčilo Bajagić Bajaga. The • Beyond House, 20/44 boat on Low, Drugstore Play boat on • Friday Night Feeva, Grad Zorana Đinđića 179, 9pm album is also available on Amazon, Sava, 11pm Sava river, 11pm Cultural Centre, Braće MONDAY FEBRUARY 15th • Balkan Express, Cantina de Deezer, iTunes and Rapsdody • Dirty Beats, Grad Cultural • DJ George and DJ Bole, Mr Krsmanović 4, 11pm Frida, Karađorđeva 2, 11pm channels. Photo: Andreja Damnjanović Centre, Braće Krsmanović 4, Stefan Braun, Nemanjina 4, • 90s, Plastic, Takovska 36, 11pm • DJ George and Dalibor 11pm 11pm • Retro House Party, Tilt, Uhrik, Mr. Stefan Braun, THURSDAY FEBRUARY 18th • 90s, Plastic, Takovska 36, 11pm • Mirko and Meex, Tilt, Karađorđeva 2, 11pm Nemanjina 4, 11pm Belgrade • Retro House Party, Tilt, Karađorđeva 2, 11pm • Old Hits Electro Party, • Blue Flower, Mikser House, • R&B Thursday Delight, Karađorđeva 2, 11pm • Beton Yourself, Beton, Industrija Bar, Karađorđeva 23, Karađorđeva 46, 9pm Brankow, Crnogorska 12, 11pm theatre rocks • Old Hits Electro Party, Karađorđeva 2, 11pm 11pm • Darko Soldo, Cantina de • Dj Gru and DJ Playa, Mr. Industrija Bar, Karađorđeva 23, • Dooshan and Goran • Memfisa, Drugstore Play, boat Frida, Karađorđeva 2, 11pm Stefan Braun, Nemanjina 4, Croatian 11pm Starčević, Brankow, on Sava river, 11pm 11pm scene • Josh Butler, Drugstore Play, Crnogorska 12, 11pm • R&B and House Night, Beton, TUESDAY FEBRUARY 16th • DJ Oysha, Industrija Bar, boat on Sava river, 11pm , KST, Bulevar Kralja Karađorđeva 2, 11pm Karađorđeva 23, 10pm • Nineties he Yugoslav Drama • R&B and House Night, Beton, Aleksandra 73, 10pm • DJ Marko Radosavljević and • Diesel Party, Mr. Stefan Braun, • Let There Be Rock, KST, Theatre, JDP, per- Karađorđeva 2, 11pm • Horkestar with guests, Dom DJ Boško Pešić, Mr Stefan Nemanjina 4, 11pm Bulevar Kralja Aleksandra 73, formed at the Croatian • DJ Marko Radosavljević and Omladine, Makedonska 22, Braun, Nemanjina 4, 11pm 11pm National Theatre on DJ Boško Pešić, Mr Stefan 8pm • Can’t Stop the Rock, KST, T nd January 22 for the first time Braun, Nemanjina 4, 11pm • Night Beats, Grad Cultural Bulevar Kralja Aleksandra 73, in 30 years with a Moliere play • Can’t Stop the Rock, KST, Centre, Braće Krsmanović 4, 10pm “The Imaginery Invalid”. The Bulevar Kralja Aleksandra 73, 9pm • The Phonerings, Jazz Bar threatre was packed and the 10pm • Bob Marley’s Day: Centar, Knez Mihajlova 6, 9pm play received a warm welcome • Samostalni Referenti, Dom Hornsman Coyote and • Fish in Oil, Studentski Grad from the Zagreb audeince. Omladine, Makedonska 22, Soulcraft live, Božidarac, Cultural Centre, Bulevar TRATTORIA Before the show, the last time 8pm Radoslava Grujića 3, 9pm Zorana Đinđića 179, 9pm PIZZERIA the JDP played in Zagreb was • Onyx, Bad Copy, Mikser House, • Ryley Walker, Gun Club, • No Comment, Cantina de in 1986. Karađorđeva 46, 9pm Miloša Pocerca 10, 10pm Frida, Karađorđeva 2, 11pm Photo: JDP Photo: JDP • Toby Driver, Jazz Bar Centar, • Johnny Cash tribute night, th Knez Mihajlova 6, 9pm Akademija 28, Nemanjina 28, 10pm SATURDAY FEBRUARY 13 Nebojsina 8 • Atomsko Skrovište, • Atheist Rap, Goblini, Gužva 16- 011/3863-999 Serbian Akademija 28, Nemanjina 28, ercu, LUR, Depo, Travnička 13, 10pm • We Play Techno Festival: [email protected] 10pm Mihajlo, D-Unity, Ilija Đoković, www.restoranamici.rs sculptor SUNDAY FEBRUARY 7th The Tube, Simina 21, 11pm SATURDAY FEBRUARY 6th • St. Valentine’s party, attracts Leeds • Viktor Savić and Guests, Mr. Grad Cultural Centre, Braće audience • O Carneval 2016 with Stefan Braun, Nemanjina 4, Krsmanović 4, 11pm Spacewalker, 2044 boat on 11pm • We Are Angels St. Sava river, 11pm • RnB Night, Cinema, Valentine’s Party, Treehouse, en sculptures by Olga Jevrić, one of the most • Alex Mine, Monsun, Gračanička 18, 11pm Botićeva 1, 11pm KOLARAC prominent Serbian Travnička 3, 11pm • Cheers to the Weekend, 20th-century artists MONDAY FEBRUARY 8th Plastic, Takovska 36, 11pm T PROGRAMME and academicians, are current- • DJ George and DJ Bole, Mr ly on show at the Henry Moore • DJ George and Dalibor Stefan Braun, Nemanjina 4, Institute in Leeds, England. The Uhrik, Mr. Stefan Braun, 11pm exhibition, entitled “Propos- Nemanjina 4, 11pm • Mirko and Meex, Tilt, als for Monuments,” will be on • Sabaton, Wisdom, Karađorđeva 2, 11pm show until April 17th. One of the Armageddon, Mikser House, • Beton Yourself, Beton, sculptures on show is “Hiro- Karađorđeva 46, 9pm Karađorđeva 2, 11pm shima 1.” th th • Heavy Heart, Traverse, • Dooshan and Goran FRIDAY, FEBRUARY 5 SUNDAY, FEBRUARY 14 People Can’t Fly, Fest, Starčević, Brankow, Photo: SANU Photo: SANU FREE COPY Gradski Park 1, Zemun, 9pm Crnogorska 12, 11pm Concert Hall, 8pm Concert Hall, 11am • Ladies’ Night and Brit’n’Bass, Belgrade Philharmonic Orchestra Soloist: Pavle Krstić Cycle: For Connoisseurs Admission free Publisher: BIRN d.o.o. TUESDAY FEBRUARY 9th KST, Bulevar Kralja Aleksandra 73, 10pm Conductor: Cristian Mandeal Kolarčeva 7/5, 11 000 Belgrade th • Diesel Party, Mr. Stefan • Plavi Ptičić and Magic Bush, Soloist: Јohannes WEDNESDAY, FEBRUARY 17 Phone/Fax: +381 11 4030 300 Braun, Nemanjina 4, 11pm Božidarac, Radoslava Grujića Moser, violoncello Editor in Chief: Gordana Igrić 3, 9pm Programme: V. Mokranjac, É. Lalo, Music Gallery, 6pm P. Hindemith Marija Ligeti Balint, piano, BIRN editorial team: WEDNESDAY FEBRUARY 10th • Atomsko Sklonište, Fest, Gradski Park 1, Zemun, 9pm Production: Belgrade harpsichord, Ana Petruševa, Marcus Tanner, CITY GUIDE Available at: • DJ Marko Radosavljević, • Doors Tribute, Akademija 28, Philharmonic Attila Balint, zither, Robert Balint, [email protected] Mr Stefan Braun, Nemanjina 4, Nemanjina 28, 10pm bassoon Tourist Organisation of Belgrade SATURDAY, FEBRUARY 6th Production: Music Centre Knez Mihailova 5, +381 (11) 2635 622 Sales & Marketing: Marija Petrović 10pm Central Train Station, +381 (11) 3612 732 Admission free Nikola Tesla Airport, +381 (11) 2097 828 Phone: +381 11 4030 302 • E-Play, Studentski Grad SUNDAY FEBRUARY 14th Concert Hall, 8pm Belgrade Port, Karađorđeva Cultural Centre, Bulevar APROPO [email protected] th Zorana Đinđića 179, 9pm • We Play Techno Festival: DJ RTS SYMPHONIC ORCHESTRA WEDNESDAY, FEBRUARY 17 Hotel Moskva Bookstore and tearoom Subscription & Distribution: Conductor: Bojan Suđić FREE PULL OUT MAP OF BELGRADE Terazije 20, +381 11 3642 000 Cara Lazara 10 Boža Podunavac, Alexandar +381 11 2625839 Goran Knezevic THURSDAY FEBRUARY 11th Ivković, TKNO, The Tube, Concert Hall, 8pm FREE SIM CARD Hotel Excelsior SUNDAY, FEBRUARY 7th Soloist: Nemanja Bogunović, guitar Kneza Miloša 5, +381 11 3231 381 At the Belgrade Airport +381 11 4030 303 Simina 21, 11pm TOP SIGHTSEEING LOCATIONS Special guest: Snežana Sekulić, • R&B Thursday Delight, • Viktor Savić and Guests, Mr. PUBLIC TRANSPORT MAP Supermarket concept store Hudson news odlasci / departures [email protected] Concert Hall, 11am the principal singer of the Belgrade Višnjićeva 10, +381 11 2910 942 Hudson news dolasci / arrivals • Brankow, Crnogorska 12, 11pm Stefan Braun, Nemanjina 4, GUIDED TOURS THROUGH BELGRADE Hudson news čekiranje / check in Printing: POLITIKA štamparija d.o.o. • For Old Times Sake, Tranzit 11pm Soloist: Sophia Grech, Opera Hotel Townhouse 27 Hudson news transit zona / transit mezzosopran Programme: Albéniz, Beethoven, WIDE SELECTION OF CLUBS, HOTELS, Maršala Birjuzova 56, +381 11 2022 900 ISSN 1820-8339 = Belgrade Insight Bar, Braće Krsmanović 8, 10pm • RnB Night, Cinema, Order online: Sanja Stefanović, piano Bizet, Debussy, Schubert, Gardel, RESTAURANTS, SHOPS AND Booking Rooms Hostel COBISS.SR-ID: 149132556 • Dj Gru and DJ Playa, Mr. Gračanička 18, 11pm Production: Music Centre Legrand, Morricone, Bogunović Kralja Petra 30, +381 63 29 39 39 www.balkaninsight.com/en/page/ Stefan Braun, Nemanjina 4, ENTERTAINMENT VALUE www.bookingrooms.rs Circulation: 4,000 • The old rock masters – belgrade-city-guide 11pm Euridika works again, Admission free Ticket price: 400, 800 rsd • DJ Oysha, Industrija Bar, Zvezdara Teatar, Milana Rakića Karađorđeva 23, 10pm 38, 7:30pm 14 BELGRADE INSIGHT, Friday, February 05 - Wednesday, February 17, 2016 BELGRADE INSIGHT, Friday, February 05 - Wednesday, February 17, 2016 15 GOING OUT SPORT Cirkus Pub Belgrade Nightlife in Belgrade gets a bit running monotonous during the winter. There aren’t many new places opening up team wins and the number of places to go out is certainly more limited when the “open global air” clubs and bars are closed. running David GALIĆ small European breweries that you couldn’t find anywhere else in Serbia. hat’s why it’s sometimes Cirkus Pub continues the tradition a good idea to journey a of promoting beer culture, but steps competition bit farther from the city up the entertainment factor a notch centre to find a good as well. The beer list at Cirkus is long; Photo: BURT time. Many forget just anyone into trying different beers from Filip AVRAMOVIĆ how big Belgrade is and around the world will love it here. Runners from with a common interest– running. The Their alliance drew a lot of attention running not only in Serbia and Croatia, Tthat there are many sections of the city The other great thing about Cirkus is elgrade Urban Running Team team was formed by just five running and praise from contestants participat- but throughout the region. offering their own style of nightlife. Ze- the wide selection of live music it offers. Belgrade and (BURT) recently won Bridge enthusiasts, but now counts over 100 ing in the Bridge the Gap competition. “We want to motivate people to do mun is definitely one of the better plac- Cirkus Pub consistently offers high- the Gap, a global running members. That attention strengthened the ties everything they can to have a better to- es in Belgrade to visit when it comes to quality musical entertainment. While Zagreb partner competition. The month-long “At first we wanted to spread aware- between the two running clubs. morrow. This is why our Crew’s slogan finding new bars and clubs. there are live bands playing almost eve- cumulative mileage contest ness about healthy lifestyle. We had “One of our captains had to go to Za- is “two crews, one family”,” they said. Zemun is mostly known for its “kaf- ry night at Cirkus Pub, the best perform- together in a spirit Bpitted running teams from all over the only two running sessions per week, greb because of love and business. He BURT organizes the NIKE running ana” scene, but there are many other ers usually appear between Wednes- world against each other. but as we grew in numbers, we focused then contacted the running team and club, an event that gathers debut run- clubs and pubs in this municipality of day and Saturday. of solidarity. Along The competition lasted the month of our attention to the BURT lifestyle and started running with them for some ners in Belgrade, twice every year. Their Belgrade that aren’t necessarily geared No matter when you go the bands are January and BURT finished first with started running in competitions,” BURT time. We all met and became friends. next goal is participating at the Belgrade towards that “tavern” experience and almost always really great. The musical the way, they the most team member miles run. told BIRN in an email. We breathe the same, think the same. marathon with the NIKE running club. live Serbian traditional music. programme is fairly diverse. You’ll usu- BURT won in front of a Danish team. BURT partnered with the Croatian We are not interested in politics. This is BURT also plans on traveling across Although many young people in Bel- ally get jazz and blues bands during the win medals in a Zagreb Runners, BURT’s Croatian sister Zagreb Runners club as a way of put- our family,” the club said. Europe to introduce themselves to oth- grade associate Zemun with Serbian weekdays and pop and rock bands on Illustration. Photo: Facebook team, finished third. ting their countries historical griev- They soon formed the 442 Crew to- er teams and meet new runners. Mem- music and kafanas, this part of Belgrade the weekends. month-long race. Belgrade Urban Running Team was ances behind them. Both teams simply gether with the Zagreb Runners club bers of the team also plan on running has always been synonymous with The public is noticing the fantas- buses after midnight that run hourly tion isn’t that exciting. Cirkus really is perie is right down the street - which is formed in 2014 to gather diverse people wanted to focus on running together. and are working on promoting urban the Berlin and Paris half-marathons. great rock venues. Zemun is home to tic fare. The crowds at Cirkus Pub are between midnight and 2am. mostly about the beer. another great reason to venture out of Fest, one of Belgrade’s most vital rock huge, especially on Friday and Satur- The décor is very pub-like, but the The age and interests of crowds in your comfort zone a bit and give night- clubs of the last 20 or so years. day. The weekends always require a bright yellow walls give Cirkus a cheer- Cirkus vary widely, but the atmosphere is life in Zemun a shot. If you’ve been to Zemun at night, reservation to get in the door, but you ful atmosphere that you usually don’t always pleasant. The music is really what then you probably know that there are can probably slide in without one on see in pubs. makes the place pop and it’s very hard Futsal Euro Championship some very cool pubs there too. One of the weekdays. Prices for drinks are similar to what not to have a good time in Cirkus if you Cirkus Pub the most popular, the miniature Crveni Your best bet for getting to Cirkus Pub you’d pay in the centre, especially for enjoy great, mostly foreign, live music. Address: Vrtlarska 3, Zemun Rak Pub was one of the first places in is taking the 15 bus from the city or go- the harder-to-find beers. The cocktails Best of all, after the night is over, Contact: +381 11 210 77 22 Belgrade to carry the exotic beers from ing by car or taxi. The 15 also has night are so-so, not great, and the wine selec- Pinokio, Belgrade’s most popular crê- opening sets attendance record With the European Filip AVRAMOVIĆ the match to their advantage, scoring In other matches, Spain and Hunga- Afghan Whigs Croatian a goal early in the match. ry also had a high scoring game, Spain water-polo early 11,000 people gath- The Serbian team quickly woke up winning 5-2. Spain is pinned against frontman in crooner ered in the packed Bel- and turned on the intensity, scoring Ukraine as well. Belgrade serenades championship grade Arena to watch the five consecutive goals and winning Spain and Ukraine were also the over, Serbian sport Nopening match between the match 5-1. top two in a 2012 group, while in quali- reg Dulli, the charismatic Belgrade Serbia and Slovenia, the highest num- The first phase of the Champion- fying for this tournament, the Spanish leader of one of the 1990s' fans turned their ber of people ever to attend a futsal ship consists of four groups. defeated Hungary 5-0. most interesting alternative ula-born Tony Cetinski, match in Europe. It’s also the fourth The top two finishers from each In group C, Russia is drawn against rock groups, Afghan Whigs, one of the most famous attention to the highest attendance recorded at a Fut- group will progress to the quarterfi- Kazakhstan who the Russians beat will be back in Belgrade. singers in the Balkans, will Futsal European sal match globally, and marks the start nals starting on February 8th. From with 2-1. Croatia is also in this group. DulliG is on a huge European tour that will be returning to perform of what should be an interesting and that point on the tournament is a Kazakhstan will play their first ever take him to 32 cities. High ticket demand at Belgrade Arena for championship and dynamic European Championship. knockout competition. game against Russia, who knocked out moved the show from the Gun Club to the Pthe fourth time next month. The The Championship started in the Serbia is drawn alongside Slove- Croatia as hosts in the last four in 2012. bigger Dom Omladine. And while he will 46-year-old rose to prominence in broke an attendance packed Belgrade Arena with an of- nia and one of the best teams in the In group D, Euro title defenders Italy surely be focusing on new music, don’t be 1994 when he represented Croatia at record at the ficial presentation from Serbian foot- world, Portugal. are drawn against the Czech Republic surprised if he throws in more than a few the Eurovision Song Contest. After successfully filling the Arena in the past, he pledges ball legend, Dejan Stankovic, ambas- In their last finals in 2012, Serbia and Azerbaijan. crowd favourites from his Afghan Whigs to do the same on March 5th, with the concert starting at 8pm. Tickets range from 1,900 to opening game of the sador of the Futsal tournament. were in a group with Portugal and Italy beat Azerbaijan 7-0 to go days. The show is on February 20th and 2,300 dinars [around €15-€18] and can be purchased either online at www.eventim.rs/ or The Slovenians used a cautious both went through ahead of Azerbai- through the 2014 group stage on their tickets cost €18 at the door. at Eventim sales outlets across Belgrade. tournament. Serbia approach in the beginning of Photo: Facebook jan. way to outright victory.

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A LEADING PROVIDER OF SUBSCRIBE TO NEWS AND ANALYSIS OUR PREMIUM CONTENT Hornsman Coyote IN SOUTHEAST EUROPE Swedish power metal heroes celebrate Marley’s birthday for in-depth analysis, Finnish psychedelic Sabaton are back investigative reports, folkies announce mystery gig Serbian singer/songwriter debuts Bob Marley Day will be celebrated at features, interviews, British gothic new album material Sabaton have proven to be the biggest the Božidarac cultural centre this year commentary and profiles Hexvessel, a Finnish band who rockers play Vrtoglavica metal attraction in Serbia over the with the help of Serbia’s most popular on the latest business and describe their music as “psychedelic One of the shining stars of Serbia’s last several years, filling bigger and Rastafarian, Hornsman Coyote and his political headlines. forest folk”, will play an-as-yet-unnamed The Faces of Sarah are an industrial/ singer/songwriter scene is Ana Ćurčin, bigger clubs every time they come to band Soulcraft. Joining them for the venue somewhere in Belgrade on April gothic rock band from London who who will be playing at Monsun on Feb- Belgrade. They rocked last year’s Exit night will be fellow reggae purveyors 5th. The band features members of will be playing in Belgrade on March ruary 10th to present the music from her Festival as well. Their anthemic war- White City Massive celebrating the life th other famed underground bands from 4 . Opening the show will be Belgrade debut album “Sketches of Belonging.” inspired power metal certainly reso- and music of reggae’s most important OTHER SERVICES: the Scandinavian rock and metal dark wave group Asphalt Chant and the Opening the show will be Sara Renar nate with Serbian fans, who welcome figure and spreading his message of scene, like Beastmilk, Grave Pleasures show will take place at the city’s most from Zagreb, who plays a similar style of them back on February 8. They will be love and tolerance for all. The show will and Code. Ticket prices will also be an- prominent gothic club, Vrtoglavica. emotional Americana. Tickets are just playing at Mikser House and tickets are be on February 6th and tickets are three nounced later. Tickets will be three euros at the door. three euros at the door. €25 at the door. euros at the door. 16 BELGRADE INSIGHT, Friday, February 05 - Wednesday, February 17, 2016 ADVERT Map of City Centre

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