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Shishapangma 2013 35 ans d’explorations Shishapangma 2013 e Mil up ita o ir r e G d e e n H g a a ute Mont SHISHAPANGMA 2013 parcourent déjà la face mais de neige et sont la cause SOMMET des possibilités d’ouverture principale des échecs dans Le Shishapangma est le existent encore. cette face. quatorzième sommet le plus L’objectif principal est haut du monde. Il culmine à d’effectuer l’ascension en style 8027 m. alpin. Son imposante face Sud, haute Le Groupe militaire de haute LES VOIES DE LA FACE SUD-OUEST de 2400 m, est un objectif montagne prévoit de se scinder majeur pour les meilleurs 1. Couloir de gauche : en deux équipes de trois à Loretan/Troillet/Kurtyka, 1990 himalayistes mondiaux. quatre alpinistes et de tenter un ou deux itinéraires dans la face. 2. Voie coréenne, 2002 PREMIÈRE ASCENSION L’ouverture de la ligne de dièdre 3. Pilier central : Stremfelj/ Dix alpinistes chinois conduits à gauche de la voie coréenne Kozjek, 1989 par Hsu Ching le 2 mai 1962. (2) constitue le premier projet, 4. Couloir de droite : Scott/ la répétition de la voie anglaise MacIntyre/Baxter-Jones, 1982 L’exPÉDITION (4), le second. 5. Wielicki, 1993 A partir du camp de base Bien entendu les conditions 6. Corredor Girona : avancé situé sur une moraine dicteront sur place le choix des Permane/Figueras, 1995 au pied de la face Sud-Ouest du itinéraires. Les avalanches sont Shishapangma, quelques voies nombreuses lors des chutes 3 2 4 5 6 1 Shishapangma 2013 e Mil up ita o ir r e G d e e n H g v : 31 juillet 2013 - p. 2 a a ute Mont SHISHAPANGMA 2013 26 septembre 2013 : premières PAYS LE PROGRAMME tentatives sur le Shishapangma 05 septembre : vol Paris- Chine 19 octobre 2013 : démontage Kathmandou et nettoyage du camp de base RÉGION 07 au 08 septembre 2013 : 21 octobre 2013 : trekking de transfert Kathmandou-Nyalam retour Tibet - massif du Gosainthan (3700 m) (dans lequel Hergé place 23 octobre 2013 : transfert 09 septembre 2013 : journée l’action de l’album « Tintin au Nyalam-Kathmandu d’acclimatation Tibet »). 24 octobre 2013 : vol 10 septembre 2013 : début du Kathmandou-Paris ACCÈS trekking 25 octobre 2013 : arrivée à Depuis Kathmandu au Népal, 14 septembre 2013 : arrivée Paris deux jours de route permettent au camp de base (5300 m) d’atteindre la frontière avec la 17 septembre 2013 : SUIVI DE L’exPÉDITION Chine que l’on franchit au «pont de l’amitié» près de installation du camp de base Le choix des itinéraires et la Kodari (Népal). Quelques avancé (5800 m) progression des cordées seront kilomètres de route 19 septembre 2013 : sommets disponibles sur www.gmhm.fr supplémentaires amènent au d’acclimatation et sur Facebook. village de Nyalam d’où part le trekking pour le camp de base. CARTES Shishapangma 2013 e Mil up ita o ir r e G d e e n H g v : 31 juillet 2013 - p. 3 a a ute Mont LE GMHM Le Groupe est reconnu MISSION EXPÉRIMENTER mondialement comme «Occuper au profit de l’armée spécialiste dans les domaines Le GMHM en tant que de Terre le créneau de la de l’alpinisme et des conditions -laboratoire de l’extrême- maitrise par l’homme des climatiques extrêmes. expérimente et développe des conditions physiques et Il est actuellement composé de techniques et des savoirs-faire climatiques extrêmes en milieu 10 alpinistes. en montagne et en zone polaire terrestre.» en vue d’éventuelles RAYONNER applications opérationnelles. Il L’hiSTOIRE participe régulièrement à des A travers ses activités, le programmes de recherches Le Groupe Militaire de Haute Groupe permet de faire flotter le médicales. Montagne est une unité de drapeau bleu blanc rouge dans e la 27 Brigade d’infanterie des lieux ou sur des sommets TRANSMETTRE de montagne basée à Varces les plus inaccessibles. Ces Fort de l’expérience acquise au (38). Il a été créé en 1976 afin expéditions à l’étranger sont de promouvoir au sein des cours de toutes ces années et l’occasion de développer les des qualifications de ses cadres, armées un alpinisme de haut relations avec d’autres armées, niveau. Il s’agissait alors de le Groupe conseille et forme des organisations civiles ou des certaines unités de l’Armée de s’inscrire dans le mouvement organismes d’état. de profonde mutation que Terre (plus particulièrement les connaissait l’alpinisme à la Portant les couleurs de l’armée commandos de la 27e Brigade fin des années 70. Par la suite de Terre, le Groupe permet d’infanterie de montagne). Il les centres d’intérêts se sont de véhiculer, à partir de ses intervient aussi dans les étendus aux régions polaires réalisations, l’image d’une formations de haut niveau en et aux disciplines sous voile armée jeune et dynamique, matière d’alpinisme. pratiquées en montagne. parfaitement intégrée dans le monde qui l’entoure. L’équiPE Le haut niveau physique et CAPITAINE LIONEL ALBRIEUX ADJUDANT SÉBASTIEN MOATTI technique de chacun des membres de l’expédition Chef d’expédition Guide de haute montagne s’associe à une cohésion sans Guide de haute montagne CHASSEUR ANTOINE BLETTON faille et une entente parfaite, fruits d’entraînements communs COMMANDANT JEAN-YVES IGONENC Guide de haute montagne réguliers dans les conditions les Guide de haute montagne CHASSEUR MAX BONNIOT plus extrêmes. CAPITAINE DIDIER JOURDAIN Leur force réside dans le souci COMMANDANT VALENTINE MALAVOY continuel d’exploiter ses Guide de haute montagne Médecin compétences au seul profit du ADJUDANT-CHEF SÉBASTIEN BOHIN Groupe. Dernière réalisation (primée aux Guide de haute montagne Piolets d’or) : ouverture d’une ADJUDANT ARNAUD BAYOL Shishapangma 2013 voie dans la face sud ouest du e Mil Guide de haute montagne up ita Kamet en 2012 - 7756 m. o ir r e G d e e n H g v : 31 juillet 2013 - p. 4 a a ute Mont GMHM 821 route des Pècles 74400 Chamonix 04 50 53 76 11 fax 76 80 www.gmhm.fr [email protected] Lieutenant Albrieux, Sergent-chef Augareils, Sergent-chef Baillargé, Adjudant Bayol, Lieutenant Bazin, Chasseur Bellin, Sergent-chef Bernard, Sergent Blasoni, Chasseur Bletton, Adjudant Bohin, Capitaine Bolo, chasseur Bonniot, chasseur Boudet, Sergent-chef Bruel, chasseur Canceill, Aspirant Cauchy, Sergent Cayrol, Capitaine Charles, Lieutenant de Choudens, Aspirant Clément, Capitaine Coubes, chasseur Delacquis, Aspirant Delapierre, Adjudant-chef Derycke, Chasseur Escoffier, Lieutenant Estève, Adjudant Fabrègue, Capitaine Faucheur, Aspirant Fargeas, Chasseur Figliolini, Chasseur Fine, chasseur Fourbet, chasseur Jaquemoud, Chasseur Gentet, Sergent Giot, Sergent-chef Gleizes, Sergent Gramond, Chasseur Grison, Adjudant Grohens, Adjudant Gryska, Aspirant Guillaume, Caporal-chef Houbard, Aspirant Hubin, Capitaine Igonenc, Chasseur Jourdain, Chasseur Koenig, Chasseur Lafaille, Aspirant Lafitte, Lieutenant Landa, Commandant Leray, Chasseur Levy, Sergent-chef Mailly, Capitaine Marmier, chasseur Marsigny, Sergent Martinez, Aspirant Maurel, Sergent-chef Miston, Sergent Moatti, Sergent-chef Monzat, Adjudant Morin, Caporal-chef Muffat-Joly, Chasseur Muller, M. Munoz, Aspirant Ott, Capitaine Peeters, Chasseur Pellissier, Lieutenant Petitjean, Chasseur Poitevin, Chasseur Profit B., Chasseur Profit Ch., Sergent-chef Prom, Sergent-chef Séguier, Capitaine Rabet, Chasseur Ratel, Chasseur Ravanel, Sergent Renard, Adjudant Rey, Chasseur Rhouling, Aspirant Rionda, sergent Royer, Chasseur Ruby, Sergent Rudolph, Chasseur Saadi, Adjudant Sachetat, Aspirant Saudo, Aspirant Souleau, Sergent Savary, Chasseur Savelli, Adjudant Sbalbi, Sous-lieutenant Sillon, Aspirant Spadone, Sergent-chef Tedeschi, Chasseur Thibal, Chasseur Toupin, Sergent-chef Tresallet, Sergent-chef Vaudelle, Adjudant Virelaude, Chasseur Volpiatto Mac Kinley 6190 m Terre de Baffin Mont Foraker 5300 m Ile de Bylot Mont Hunter 4510 m Ile d’Ellesmere Mont Logan 5959 m Mont Augusta 4289 m Pôle nord Groenland Everest 8848 m Lhotse Shar 8400 m Gyachungkang 7952 m Thalay Sagar 6904 m Apostolens Kabru Dome 6600 m Kamet 7756 m Alpes Indrassan 6221 m Dhaulagiri 8172 m Yosemite Gasherbrum 8068 m Sierra Nevada Nilkanth 6600 m Broad Peak 8048 m Shivling 6,543 m Nilgiri 6750 m Arwa 6352 m Minya Konka 7556 m Sishapangma 8 013 m Main de Fatma Mont Hombori Huascaran 6768 m Shishapangma 2013 Aconcagua 6 962 m Mi pe lita Mont Cook 3754 m u i Mont Aspiring 3033 m o r r e Pôle sud G Monts Ellsworth 2925 m d Tours du Paine Mont Vinson 4892 m e e San Lorenzo Mont Holstin 2600 m Mont Ross 1850 m n Darwin H g v : 31 juillet 2013 - p. 5 a a ute Mont.
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