roussillon

Decanter’s panel tasting of the red wines Its history and traditions are quite different – ‘So often of Roussillon (February 2015) provoked cries it was part of Spain until the Treaty of the of outrage from many of the region’s growers. Pyrenees was signed in 1659 and its modern Roussillon is To Roussillon, Inexplicably, wines from some of the best history places it firmly in Catalonia. names simply did not show well, so that there has more to do with Barcelona than with lumped were no Outstanding wines, and only five of the Narbonne, for the Pyrenees are not a frontier, 82 wines tasted were Highly Recommended. but a unifying link between two parts of together with As the journalist commissioned to write Catalonia. And unlike the Languedoc, its in search of finesse both the introduction and the summing up, viticultural development was based on the Languedoc, I attempted to be as diplomatic and fair as production of fortified vins doux naturels. When Rosemary George MW criticised the lack of possible; however, I was taken to task for saying The next thing to appreciate is the and this is elegance in Roussillon reds, in a Decanter panel tasting last that I found very little elegance in the line-up. extraordinary geological complexity of Clearly Roussillon deserved better than that, Roussillon – what Lionel Lavail of Domaine unfair’ year, the region’s producers threw down the gauntlet – so at the invitation of the region’s wine body I Cazes calls ‘une mosaique de terroirs’. The come and visit and we’ll change your mind, they proposed. spent five days there last autumn, to find out region is crossed by three rivers – the Agly, the Here she reports on her trip, and shares her conclusions what Roussillon is really all about. It is always Têt and the Tech – and it has mountains to good to have preconceived ideas challenged, the south, the Pyrenees, dominated by the and challenged they were. Canigou, which play a big role in determining The first thing to make clear is that the climatic conditions of the region. To the Roussillon is quite distinct from Languedoc. north are the hills of Corbières; and to the So often the two wine regions are lumped east, the sea. Alain Razungles from Domaine

Photograph: Mick Rock/Cephas Mick Photograph: together, and this is clearly unfair to Roussillon. des Chênes observes that Roussillon has ➢

Above: hillside vineyards above the Côtes du Roussillon village of Caramany and the Barrage de l’Agly dam

58 | July 2016 • DECANTER DECANTER • July 2016 | 59 roussillon

just about every soil type somewhere in its vineyards, with the one exception of volcanic soil. In short, as Fabrice Rieu, president of the Many facets: top Roussillon buys CIVR, the official body of the region, puts it: Domaine La Tour Vieille, Les Domaine Vial Magnères, Petit ‘Roussillon grows 23 different grape varieties Canadells, 2014 97 Couscouril, Collioure 2014 95 on 25 different soil types.’ £16.50 Yapp Bros N/A UK www.vialmagneres.fr Some oak and white blossom on A blend of Grenache Blanc, Varietal mix the nose, with a rounded, Grenache Gris and Vermentino. Grenache, in all three colours, with many satisfyingly textured palate and A fresh, sappy nose with a lovely venerable old vines, provides the backbone of hints of fennel. A touch of oak salinity on the palate. Refreshing the grape variety mix of Roussillon. Carignan, makes for structure and ageability. and elegant with great depth of also with many old vines, is important too, Drink 2016-2018 Alc 14.5% flavour. Drink 2016-2020 Alc 14% and considered by Etienne Montès of Domaine la Casenove to be ‘more aristocratic than Syrah’. Domaine de la Domaine Vaquer, L’Expression, Indeed Marjorie Gallet at Le Roc des Anges Rectorie, L’Argile, Carignan, Côtes Catalanes 2011 95 observes that she would not replant Syrah and Collioure 2014 96 £14.95 Wine Sensations that it is the truly Mediterranean varieties £28 Fields Morris & Verdin A stunning example of a pure that work best of all. Mainly Grenache Gris Carignan, from vines planted in It was the Parcé family of Banyuls that with Grenache Blanc 1936. Aged in vat, so there’s some introduced Mourvèdre to the region, inspired and including some lovely red fruit and elegant tannins, by the example of Bandol in Provence and centenarian vines. followed by a refreshing finish. their friendship with Lucien Peyraud of Lovely slatey, mineral Drink 2016-2023 Alc 13.5% Domaine Tempier, and this variety does Above: at Mas Amiel, Maury Doux sweet wines notes and very perform particularly well close to the sea. In ripen in demi-johns under the Roussillon sun well-integrated oak. A Le Roc des Anges, 1903 addition, Roussillon has its fair share of the youthful freshness on the finish. Carignan, Côtes so-called international varieties, such as Bécha near Perpignan, in his Cuvée Excellence, Drink 2016-2020 Alc 14% Catalanes 2013 95 Cabernet Sauvignon and Chardonnay, which use no wood at all, affirming simply that ‘it is N/A UK www.rocdesanges. are used for vins de pays, as well as an not necessary’. Coume del Mas, Folio, com incredible diversity of white varieties, about The wines are also tending towards lower Collioure 2014 95 Lovely example of pure which more anon. alcohol levels. At Roc des Anges the highest £22-£26 Clark Foyster, Carignan, with firm, The main focus of Roussillon is on its red vines are at 300m and north facing, closer to Hedonism, Noel Young mineral notes. It is rich table wines. Côtes du Roussillon-Villages is the the Pyrenees than to the sea, so that they enjoy Mainly Grenache Gris and powerful but with principal appellation, requiring a minimum of the effect of the cool mountain air, and lower from 1960s vines, with a an underlying freshness, two varieties, and covering 32 villages in the alcohol levels. Organic viticulture also makes little Grenache Blanc, especially on the long northern part of the department, including a for lower alcohol, according to Marjorie Gallet. Terret and Carignan finish. Drink 2016-2025 Alc 13.5% handful of named villages – Caramany, Nevertheless, the difference in temperature Blanc. Rounded, peachy , Latour de and – between Maury and the coast can be as much as fruit and white blossom Domaine Boucabeille, each with their own distinctive terroir and 5°C in the summer. Vineyards in Roussillon are nose. Textured palate, Les Orris, Côtes du character. Les Aspres, a dry, undulating influenced by either the mountains or the sea. with citrus notes and fennel. Some Roussillon 2014 94 area close to Perpignan, is about to be For Philippe Gard at Coume del Mas in Banyuls salinity, especially on the finish. £22.50 Justerini & Brooks incorporated into the Côtes du Roussillon- the côté mer has a strong vintage influence, Drink 2016-2020 Alc 14% An unusually high Villages AC as another named area. whereas the côté montagne is more regular. proportion of Maury is the newest table wine Domaine Lafage, Centenaire, Mourvèdre in the blend appellation, with vineyards on an oasis of Changing styles Côtes du Roussillon 2014 95 as it was especially black schist, making for wines with Essentially you could see two trends in the red £10-£12 All About Wine, The Drink good in 2014. Portrays intense minerality, while Collioure is the wines of Roussillon: some producers are Shop, Vin Cognito the elegance of the table wine appellation of Banyuls, with looking for greater freshness and drinkability, A classic blend of Grenache Blanc vintage with firm black

wines that benefit from a tempering Nelson Maggie Map: while in other areas the grapes perform better and Roussanne. Fresh minerality fruit and fresh, peppery notes. maritime influence. Côtes du when really ripe. As a result, there are still on both nose and palate with an Nicely balanced finish. Drink Roussillon covers the southern part Left: Mas Bécha’s Cuvée Stéphane Gallet, ‘Roussillon only really has 15 people making powerful, oaky wines, while underlying salinity. Tight-knit and 2017-2025 Alc 14% of the region, while Côtes Catalanes Excellence is unoaked, years of history.’ others are searching for elegance, with a trend stony with a long finish. Youthful. is the principal vin de pays and can reflecting a move by More than one vigneron asserts that ‘we are towards lighter extraction. Drink 2016-2020 Alc 13% Mas Bécha, Classique, Côtes du be a wonderful source of originality some producers in the not standing still’. You will see modern cellars Charles Perez is one of several wine growers Roussillon-Villages 2013 94 and creativity, with its producers region towards wines equipped with the latest technology, and wine to talk about the search for drinkability, in a Domaine La Toupie, Fine Fleur, N/A UK www.masbecha.com showing a healthy disrespect for of greater freshness growers are experimenting with amphorae, style that combines ripe fruit and elegance. Côtes du Roussillon 2014 95 A blend of Syrah with Grenache some of the finer points of the concrete eggs, tronconique (tapered) vats, and Nicolas Raffy at Mas Amiel in Maury wants ripe £12.70 Joie de Vin and Mourvèdre. Lots of ripe black appellation laws. vats of other shapes, not to mention oak barrels grapes, while avoiding over-extraction, so he is A little oak on the nose and palate, fruit on both nose and palate with a There is no doubt that the wines of different sizes. These days the traditional using less wood – in particular fewer barriques but nicely integrated fruit and fresh firm backbone of tannin and a of Roussillon have seen a large wooden foudres are used for ageing the – and working less on his fermentations. acidity. Harmonious, long finish. fresh finish. Drink 2017-2025 considerable evolution over the sweet, fortified vins doux rather than table A comparison of 2012 and 2006 vintages Drink 2016-2020 Alc 13% Alc 14.5% ➢

past decade or so; indeed for wines but some, like Charles Perez at Mas Maunder/Alamy Hilke Photograph: from Clos des Fées further east towards the ➢

60 | July 2016 • DECANTER DECANTER • July 2016 | 61 roussillon

Top Roussillon buys (continued) Clot de l’Oum, Numero than enough fruit to balance the Uno, Côtes du alcohol. Drink 2016-2025 Alc 15% Roussillon-Villages Caramany 2009 93 Domaine Cazes, Cuvée N/A UK www.clotdeloum. Aimé Cazes, com 1978 95 Mainly Syrah and £83-£104 Exel, Hedonism, Carignan. Round, lightly Liberty Wines, The Fine Wine Co smoky nose, with spice Beautiful amber colour. ‘Roussillon only really has and fruit on the palate, Dry nose, with firm nutty and along and elegant fruit on the palate. A little 15 years of history’ finish. Drink 2016-2023 Alc 13% reminiscent of very dry Stéphane Gallet of Le Roc des Anges, pictured old oloroso Sherry. One above with wife Marjorie and the family pet Domaine des Chênes, Le of the great Rivesaltes. Mascarou, Côtes du Roussillon- Drink 2016-2025 Alc 15% coast showed a definite shift in style, while a Villages Tautavel 2009 93 vertical tasting of Jean Boucabeille’s Cuvée Les £12.05 OW Loeb, Vin Cognito Mas Amiel, 15 Years Old, Orris from 2010 back to 2003 illustrated not Very intense nose of oak and Maury NV 96 only the vintage effect but also the ageing garrigue scents. Youthful fruit with £21.50-£34.95 Georges potential of the best red wines of Roussillon. herbs, spice and liquorice, well- Barbier, Perfect Cellar However, much as I enjoyed Roussillon’s red integrated oak and a fresh finish, Pure Grenache Noir aged wines, the real surprise for me was the despite the alcohol. Drink to an amber brick colour. outstanding quality and originality of the 2016-2023 Alc 15% Rich fruit with figs, whites. They may only account for a small part spices and liquorice. of the production of the region, but they are Domaine Modat, Comme Avant, Long, elegant and utterly truly worth seeking out, for their minerality Côtes du Roussillon-Villages delicious. One to be and depth of flavour. Caramany 2012 92 savoured and treasured. The backbone variety is again Grenache, N/A UK www.domaine-modat.com Drink 2016-2025 Alc 16.5% both Blanc and Gris, with the real depth of Ripe, spicy nose and a rounded, character coming from Grenache Gris, its citrus harmonious palate. There is more For full UK stockist details, see p111 notes, salinity and minerality. Roussanne, Marsanne and Vermentino were introduced into the region in the 1980s, with Vermentino Vins doux still remain an important part of proving the most successful. Hervé Bizeul of Roussillon’s production however, and a very Clos des Fées was inspired by the Vermentino significant part in terms of wonderful of Corsica, and he also makes a delicious pure originality. Producers of Banyuls and the new Semillon, with distinctive varietal character. appellation of Maury Sec continue to take Carignan Blanc is tolerated, but not pride in their vins doux, while hoping that the included in the appellation, even though it recognition of the latter won’t have an adverse performs a useful role, adding structure and effect on Maury Doux. The young vintage acidity. There is also Malvoisie, otherwise sweet red styles, Rimage and Grenat, as they known as Torbat, which is declining in are called in Banyuls and Maury respectively, importance; and Macabeo, which is more have a beguiling freshness and fruitiness delicate. Generally Roussillon’s whites never compared to ruby or LBV Port, while the wines undergo malolactic fermentation as it is vital that mature for years, if not decades, in old to retain acidity, and sometimes they may be barrels have a unique individuality, and fermented and aged in barrel. Lees stirring deserve a wider audience. Utterly irresistible! can enhance flavour, but must be done with But let me save my final words for the vins care as it can make a wine too fat and heavy. secs of Roussillon, and in particular the red wines of the region. There’s no doubt that both Sweet to dry viticulture and winemaking have improved The other significant change has been a enormously in recent years, and the style of the Rosemary George MW distinct shift away from the fortified vins doux wines has gently evolved, so that elegance is a DWWA Regional naturels (Maury, Rivesaltes and Banyuls) features in the flavour palette of Roussillon in co-Chair for towards table wines, which they call vins secs. a way that it never did before. I am confident Languedoc-Roussillon Jean-Michel Parcé observed that 20 years ago that the judges for Decanter’s next Roussillon and publishes the he was making one-third vin sec to two-thirds tasting, whenever that may be, will not be Tastelanguedoc. vin doux – today that figure is reversed. taken to task for failing to find elegance. D blogspot.com website

62 | July 2016 • DECANTER