Purl Girl NEW YORK — DIY: One Girl’S Hobby Is Another’S fl Edgling Career
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The Inside: Highest Airport SalesPg. 12 REINVENTING LONDON FOG/3 CHER AND HEF/13 WWD WWDWomen’s Wear Daily • The THURSDAYRetailers’ Daily Newspaper • August 10, 2006 • $2.00 List Sportswear Purl Girl NEW YORK — DIY: one girl’s hobby is another’s fl edgling career. An emerging subculture of cool do-it-yourselfers has gone mad for crafts, and some of them are even channeling their big addictions into small businesses. Take, for instance, Frank Zappa’s daughter, Diva, who’s about to begin selling her homespun goods online. “My specialty is the poncho, which can also be a skirt,” says the actress. Here, Zappa and a few of her in-progress creations. For more custom-made craftiness, see pages 6 and 7. Bullish Federated: Retailer Ups Outlook After Strong 2nd Quarter By David Moin guidance for the third and fourth operating income of $291 million in NEW YORK — Though deep into quarters. the year-ago period. the tedious task of converting Federated reported net income The second-quarter results were May doors to Macy’s, Federated of $317 million, compared with boosted by Federated’s cash refund Department Stores came out income of $148 million in the year- from the Internal Revenue Service looking good in its second quarter ago period. Operating income rose and steady comp-store sales gains. ended July 29 and upped its to $422 million, compared with See Federated, Page 11 PHOTO BY DONATO SARDELLA DONATO PHOTO BY WWD.COM WWDTHURSDAY Sportswear GENERAL ™ Deep into converting May stores into Macy’s, Federated Department 1 Stores had a healthy hike in second-quarter income, to $422 million. A weekly update on consumer attitudes and behavior based M. Fabrikant & Sons, the $1 billion family-owned fi ne jewelry and on ongoing research from Cotton Incorporated 3 diamond fi rm, faces two lawsuits for $7.5 million in unpaid invoices. London Fog’s potential new owners have big plans for the brand, OLD SCHOOL 3 capitalizing on its aspirational qualities. EYE: A Q&A with Terry Richardson, whose show of the fi rst 15 rolls of fi lm Campus Classics Reinvent Themselves 4 he shot opens Saturday at Glen Horowitz Booksellers in East Hampton, N.Y. Dressing smartly for class this season is as of couture jeans. She admits to playing with the FASHION: A new crop of designer collections, sophisticated craft books and savvy little stores is proving it’s never been cooler to do it yourself. easy as learning your ABC’s. That is, if you think of designs of her back pockets to keep things fresh 6 them as Argyles, Blue Jeans and Cables. and new. “It’s a subtle tweak, nothing too crazy, but DISH: Premium denim line Proportionofblu uses a mathematical principle “There is a definite return to the classics for this I have customers who come in and immediately 8 known as the golden ratio, thought to have been used by Leonardo da Vinci. year’s back-to-school season,” shares Gretchen recognize the jeans as something new and it keeps BEAT: The Intermezzo show was at a new location, but that didn’t deter Petrone, Product Line Manager things exciting and different.” 9 buyers looking to pick up pieces for holiday and resort selling. for L.L. Bean, the multi-channel “Jeans are like the new black Classifi ed Advertisements.............................................................14-15 retailer. “But there are also some pant,” Adams Geller continues, updates that make them new, “I think that’s why jeans are a To e-mail reporters and editors at WWD, the address is fi rstname. fresh and very current.” natural back-to-school staple. It’s [email protected], using the individual’s name. WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY IS A REGISTERED TRADEMARK OF FAIRCHILD PUBLICATIONS, INC. COPY- With argyle sweaters, khakis, a practical investment, no matter RIGHT ©2006 FAIRCHILD PUBLICATIONS, INC. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. PRINTED IN THE U.S.A. jeans, cable knits, barn coats, what your budget is, once you VOLUME 192, NO. 29. WWD (ISSN # 0149-5380) is published daily except Saturdays, Sundays and holidays, with one ad- ditional issue in January and November, two additional issues in March, May, June, August and December, and three ad- corduroy skirts and cargo pants consider how often you will wear ditional issues in February, April, September and October by Fairchild Publications, Inc., a subsidiary of Advance Publications, in vogue, this season’s scholastic them. You can dress them up Inc. PRINCIPAL OFFICE: 750 Third Avenue, New York, NY 10017. Shared Services provided by Advance Magazine Publishers Inc.: S.I. Newhouse Jr., Chairman; Charles H. Townsend, President & C.E.O.; John W. Bellando, Executive Vice President and styles borrow heavily from the with a suit jacket and look really C.O.O.; Jill Bright, Executive Vice President_Human Resources; John Buese, Executive Vice President_Chief Information Officer; preppy set of yesteryear. While smart or with a tee shirt for a David Orlin, Senior Vice President_Strategic Sourcing; Robert Bennis, Senior Vice President_Real Estate; Maurie Perl, Senior Vice President_Chief Communications Officer. Shared Services provided by Advance Magazine Group: Steven T. Florio, Advance these classics boast modern details casual look.” Magazine Group Vice Chairman; David B. Chemidlin, Senior Vice President_General Manager, Shared Services Center. Periodicals postage paid at New York, NY and at additional mailing offices. Canada Post Publications Mail Agreement No. that make them current, they Denim may very well be the 40644503. Canadian Goods and Services Tax Registration No. 88654-9096-RM0001. Canada post return undeliverable also possess clean and polished proverbial black pant of the Canadian addresses to: DPGM, 7496 Bath Road, Unit 2, Mississauga, ON L4T 1L2. POSTMASTER: SEND ADDRESS CHANGES TO WWD, P.O. Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA 91615-5008. FOR SUBSCRIPTIONS, details that make them viable for younger generation and they ADDRESS CHANGES, ADJUSTMENTS, OR BACK ISSUE INQUIRIES: Please write to WOMEN’S WEAR consumers of any age. want to maintain the garment’s DAILY, P.O. Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA 91615-5008; Call 800-289-0273; or visit www.subnow.com/wd . Four integrity, according to data from weeks is required for change of address. Please give both new and old address as printed on most recent label. Chris Hoffman, founder “There is a definite return to Subscriptions Rates: U.S. possessions, Retailer, daily one year: $109; Manufacturer, daily one year $145. All other and designer of Sixth Alice, a the Monitor. When asked if they U.S., daily one year $205. Canada/Mexico, daily one year, $295. All other foreign (Air Speed), daily one year $595. the classics for this year’s back- First copy of new subscription will be mailed within four weeks after receipt of order. Address all editorial, business, collection of timeless skirts for were bothered by the fact that to-school season. But there are and production correspondence to WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY, 750 Third Avenue, New York, NY 10017. For permissions young ladies, definitely agrees. denim blue jeans tended to fade, and reprint requests, please call 212-221-9595 or fax requests to 212-221-9195. Visit us online: www.wwd.com. To certainly some updates that subscribe to other Fairchild magazines on the World Wide Web, visit www.fairchildpub.com. Occasionally, we make “We see our classic skirts doing one in four respondents aged 16 make them new and fresh our subscriber list available to carefully screened companies that offer products and services that we believe would very well, particularly our slim to 24 stated they did. Ironically, interest our readers. If you do not want to receive these offers and/or information by mail and/or e-mail, please advise and very current.” us at P.O. Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA 91615-5008 or call 800-289-0273. corduroy skirts for back-to- strong feelings about this fading WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY IS NOT RESPONSIBLE FOR LOSS, DAMAGE, OR ANY OTHER INJURY TO UNSOLICITED MANU- school. We update this look with — Gretchen Petrone, phenomenon tended to ebb with SCRIPTS, UNSOLICITED ART WORK (INCLUDING, BUT NOT LIMITED TO, DRAWINGS, PHOTOGRAPHS, AND TRANSPAR- Product Line Manager, ENCIES), OR ANY OTHER UNSOLICITED MATERIALS. THOSE SUBMITTING MANUSCRIPTS, PHOTOGRAPHS, ART WORK, trims and ribbons and belts, so time and age; 21% of respondents OR OTHER MATERIALS FOR CONSIDERATION SHOULD NOT SEND ORIGINALS, UNLESS SPECIFICALLY REQUESTED the look is classic but also new. L.L. Bean aged 25 to 34 said that it bothered The corduroy skirt is a great, versatile piece that can them, compared with only 13% for those aged 35 be worn with a blouse or a sweater and look very to 55 and 12% for those aged 56 to 70. pulled together.” “We have had great success with denim as a back- Or perhaps the fashion-conscious student will to-school basic,” affirms L.L. Bean’s Petrone. When In Brief be wearing both a blouse and sweater together, asked how the retailer keeps this classic new, Petrone ● as layering will continue to be a very popular offers one word. “‘Fit.’ It’s an important component JORDACHE APPOINTMENT: Salman Khokhar has been named executive vice president of global strategy at Jordache and important trend, impart those in the know. and we want this customer to have choices and Enterprises, a new post. Most recently, Khokhar was a part- “This fall, looks are all about proportion,” offers options and we are educating her in finding the ner in KoKa Consulting, a brand management fi rm. Earlier, Linda DeFranco, a Senior right fit. ” he was head of new business development at Donna Karan Trend Forecaster with Cotton Q152 AMOUNT YOU ARE PLANNING TO The younger consumer does International and has been director of sales and planning at Incorporated.