The Inside: Highest Airport SalesPg. 12 REINVENTING LONDON FOG/3 CHER AND HEF/13 WWD WWDWomen’s Wear Daily • The THURSDAYRetailers’ Daily Newspaper • August 10, 2006 • $2.00 List Sportswear Purl Girl NEW YORK — DIY: one girl’s hobby is another’s fl edgling career. An emerging subculture of cool do-it-yourselfers has gone mad for crafts, and some of them are even channeling their big addictions into small businesses. Take, for instance, Frank Zappa’s daughter, Diva, who’s about to begin selling her homespun goods online. “My specialty is the poncho, which can also be a skirt,” says the actress. Here, Zappa and a few of her in-progress creations. For more custom-made craftiness, see pages 6 and 7.

Bullish Federated: Retailer Ups Outlook After Strong 2nd Quarter By David Moin guidance for the third and fourth operating income of $291 million in NEW YORK — Though deep into quarters. the year-ago period. the tedious task of converting Federated reported net income The second-quarter results were May doors to Macy’s, Federated of $317 million, compared with boosted by Federated’s cash refund Department Stores came out income of $148 million in the year- from the Internal Revenue Service looking good in its second quarter ago period. Operating income rose and steady comp-store sales gains. ended July 29 and upped its to $422 million, compared with See Federated, Page 11 PHOTO BY DONATO SARDELLA DONATO PHOTO BY WWD.COM WWDTHURSDAY Sportswear GENERAL ™ Deep into converting May stores into Macy’s, Federated Department 1 Stores had a healthy hike in second-quarter income, to $422 million. A weekly update on consumer attitudes and behavior based M. Fabrikant & Sons, the $1 billion family-owned fi ne jewelry and on ongoing research from Cotton Incorporated 3 diamond fi rm, faces two lawsuits for $7.5 million in unpaid invoices. London Fog’s potential new owners have big plans for the brand, OLD SCHOOL 3 capitalizing on its aspirational qualities. EYE: A Q&A with Terry Richardson, whose show of the fi rst 15 rolls of fi lm Campus Classics Reinvent Themselves 4 he shot opens Saturday at Glen Horowitz Booksellers in East Hampton, N.Y. Dressing smartly for class this season is as of couture jeans. She admits to playing with the FASHION: A new crop of designer collections, sophisticated craft books and savvy little stores is proving it’s never been cooler to do it yourself. easy as learning your ABC’s. That is, if you think of designs of her back pockets to keep things fresh 6 them as Argyles, Blue Jeans and Cables. and new. “It’s a subtle tweak, nothing too crazy, but DISH: Premium denim line Proportionofblu uses a mathematical principle “There is a definite return to the classics for this I have customers who come in and immediately 8 known as the golden ratio, thought to have been used by Leonardo da Vinci. year’s back-to-school season,” shares Gretchen recognize the jeans as something new and it keeps BEAT: The Intermezzo show was at a new location, but that didn’t deter Petrone, Product Line Manager things exciting and different.” 9 buyers looking to pick up pieces for holiday and resort selling. for L.L. Bean, the multi-channel “Jeans are like the new black Classifi ed Advertisements...... 14-15 retailer. “But there are also some pant,” Adams Geller continues, updates that make them new, “I think that’s why jeans are a To e-mail reporters and editors at WWD, the address is fi rstname. fresh and very current.” natural back-to-school staple. It’s [email protected], using the individual’s name. WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY IS A REGISTERED TRADEMARK OF FAIRCHILD PUBLICATIONS, INC. COPY- With argyle sweaters, khakis, a practical investment, no matter RIGHT ©2006 FAIRCHILD PUBLICATIONS, INC. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. PRINTED IN THE U.S.A. jeans, cable knits, barn coats, what your budget is, once you VOLUME 192, NO. 29. WWD (ISSN # 0149-5380) is published daily except Saturdays, Sundays and holidays, with one ad- ditional issue in January and November, two additional issues in March, May, June, August and December, and three ad- corduroy skirts and cargo pants consider how often you will wear ditional issues in February, April, September and October by Fairchild Publications, Inc., a subsidiary of Advance Publications, in vogue, this season’s scholastic them. You can dress them up Inc. PRINCIPAL OFFICE: 750 Third Avenue, New York, NY 10017. Shared Services provided by Advance Magazine Publishers Inc.: S.I. Newhouse Jr., Chairman; Charles H. Townsend, President & C.E.O.; John W. Bellando, Executive Vice President and styles borrow heavily from the with a suit jacket and look really C.O.O.; Jill Bright, Executive Vice President_Human Resources; John Buese, Executive Vice President_Chief Information Officer; preppy set of yesteryear. While smart or with a tee shirt for a David Orlin, Senior Vice President_Strategic Sourcing; Robert Bennis, Senior Vice President_Real Estate; Maurie Perl, Senior Vice President_Chief Communications Officer. Shared Services provided by Advance Magazine Group: Steven T. Florio, Advance these classics boast modern details casual look.” Magazine Group Vice Chairman; David B. Chemidlin, Senior Vice President_General Manager, Shared Services Center. Periodicals postage paid at New York, NY and at additional mailing offices. Canada Post Publications Mail Agreement No. that make them current, they Denim may very well be the 40644503. Canadian Goods and Services Tax Registration No. 88654-9096-RM0001. Canada post return undeliverable also possess clean and polished proverbial black pant of the Canadian addresses to: DPGM, 7496 Bath Road, Unit 2, Mississauga, ON L4T 1L2. POSTMASTER: SEND ADDRESS CHANGES TO WWD, P.O. Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA 91615-5008. FOR SUBSCRIPTIONS, details that make them viable for younger generation and they ADDRESS CHANGES, ADJUSTMENTS, OR BACK ISSUE INQUIRIES: Please write to WOMEN’S WEAR consumers of any age. want to maintain the garment’s DAILY, P.O. Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA 91615-5008; Call 800-289-0273; or visit www.subnow.com/wd . Four integrity, according to data from weeks is required for change of address. Please give both new and old address as printed on most recent label. Chris Hoffman, founder “There is a definite return to Subscriptions Rates: U.S. possessions, Retailer, daily one year: $109; Manufacturer, daily one year $145. All other and designer of Sixth Alice, a the Monitor. When asked if they U.S., daily one year $205. Canada/Mexico, daily one year, $295. All other foreign (Air Speed), daily one year $595. the classics for this year’s back- First copy of new subscription will be mailed within four weeks after receipt of order. Address all editorial, business, collection of timeless skirts for were bothered by the fact that to-school season. But there are and production correspondence to WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY, 750 Third Avenue, New York, NY 10017. For permissions young ladies, definitely agrees. denim blue jeans tended to fade, and reprint requests, please call 212-221-9595 or fax requests to 212-221-9195. Visit us online: www.wwd.com. To certainly some updates that subscribe to other Fairchild magazines on the World Wide Web, visit www.fairchildpub.com. Occasionally, we make “We see our classic skirts doing one in four respondents aged 16 make them new and fresh our subscriber list available to carefully screened companies that offer products and services that we believe would very well, particularly our slim to 24 stated they did. Ironically, interest our readers. If you do not want to receive these offers and/or information by mail and/or e-mail, please advise and very current.” us at P.O. Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA 91615-5008 or call 800-289-0273. corduroy skirts for back-to- strong feelings about this fading WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY IS NOT RESPONSIBLE FOR LOSS, DAMAGE, OR ANY OTHER INJURY TO UNSOLICITED MANU- school. We update this look with — Gretchen Petrone, phenomenon tended to ebb with SCRIPTS, UNSOLICITED ART WORK (INCLUDING, BUT NOT LIMITED TO, DRAWINGS, PHOTOGRAPHS, AND TRANSPAR- Product Line Manager, ENCIES), OR ANY OTHER UNSOLICITED MATERIALS. THOSE SUBMITTING MANUSCRIPTS, PHOTOGRAPHS, ART WORK, trims and ribbons and belts, so time and age; 21% of respondents OR OTHER MATERIALS FOR CONSIDERATION SHOULD NOT SEND ORIGINALS, UNLESS SPECIFICALLY REQUESTED the look is classic but also new. L.L. Bean aged 25 to 34 said that it bothered The corduroy skirt is a great, versatile piece that can them, compared with only 13% for those aged 35 be worn with a blouse or a sweater and look very to 55 and 12% for those aged 56 to 70. pulled together.” “We have had great success with denim as a back- Or perhaps the fashion-conscious student will to-school basic,” affirms L.L. Bean’s Petrone. When In Brief be wearing both a blouse and sweater together, asked how the retailer keeps this classic new, Petrone ● as layering will continue to be a very popular offers one word. “‘Fit.’ It’s an important component JORDACHE APPOINTMENT: Salman Khokhar has been named executive vice president of global strategy at Jordache and important trend, impart those in the know. and we want this customer to have choices and Enterprises, a new post. Most recently, Khokhar was a part- “This fall, looks are all about proportion,” offers options and we are educating her in finding the ner in KoKa Consulting, a brand management fi rm. Earlier, Linda DeFranco, a Senior right fit. ” he was head of new business development at Donna Karan Trend Forecaster with Cotton Q152 AMOUNT YOU ARE PLANNING TO The younger consumer does International and has been director of sales and planning at Incorporated. “Layering is a key SPEND ON BACK-TO-SCHOOL CLOTHES* appear to be listening to marketing the Calvin Klein Jeans division of Warnaco Group. Khokhar way to achieve that look and still messages. When asked by the will be responsible for international licensing, strategic plan- ning and new business development for Jordache Enterprises’ look very modern.” FEMALES Monitor if they were aware that brands including Jordache, Kikit Jeans and Earl Jean. According to the Cotton $0 0% cotton clothing was available with Incorporated Lifestyle Monitor™, specific attributes, a significant $1 TO $100 28% ● CLASSIC RUSSIAN: In collaboration with the Venice slightly more than one-third of number did. 67% of respondents Biennale and Venice International Film Festival, Fondazione $101 TO $200 35% female respondents stated that they aged 16 to 24 were aware that Prada has restored 10 Russian movies dating from 1934 to 1974. had a need to buy back-to-school OVER $200 29% cotton clothing had stretch, an A total of 18 movies from the period will be shown at the festi- clothing, either for themselves or DON’T KNOW 7% expandable waist (64%), wrinkle val in September in the presence of directors Nikita Mikhalkov and Andreij Koncalovskij. Over the past two years, the founda- for their children. 75% of these AVERAGE $212 resistance (63%), ease of care (62%) women indicated that they would and stain resistance (47%). tion, owned by the family of Miuccia Prada, has also restored *FIGURES ARE ROUNDED. a number of Italian and Asian movies. “These are spectacular be buying before the first day of Surface treatments are yet and even kitsch works — an unexpected selection, entirely school and the reasons for their another way that retailers will be in line with the foundation’s experimental essence,” said the early bird shopping included a need to be prepared, updating classic silhouettes this season, particularly foundation’s artistic director, Germano Celant. a desire for new clothing, taking advantage of sales in sweaters, like the always popular argyles, cable events, convenience and a need for new sizes. knits and turtlenecks. “We are updating sweaters ● WELSH IN SPATARO DEAL: The Helen Welsh Group has ac- But don’t underestimate the fun factor or the with a softer hand and lots of surface treatments quired the license for Maurizio Spataro, a 16-year-old handbag opportunity afforded by this necessary task, urges for a nice feel and look,” Petrone says. and hat firm. Both companies are based in New York. The move is part of Welsh’s ambition to grow the company through licens- Kimberly Canzani, Director of Marketing for With regards to look, femininity also makes ing. In March, Concept One Accessories, a $32 million acces- the Manhattan Mall, a popular New York City the grade. “Khakis and barn coats will be more sories licensing firm, also based in Manhattan, acquired the destination. “Back-to-school shopping has always feminine, cut to flatter and easy to wear,” Petrone four-year-old firm. At the time, Concept One said it planned meant a fresh start; a fresh start to your wardrobe, continues. to double Welsh’s sales to $16 million by 2007 by acquiring your outlook and your well being. New pencils and It sounds as if students everywhere will be kicking women’s licenses and doing more private label work. The first notebooks and new shoes and ensembles are all one it up old school. Spataro collection was introduced this week at the Accessorie and the same! Think of it as a chance to reinvent This story is one in a series of articles based on find- Circuit trade show. ings from Cotton Incorporated’s Lifestyle Monitor™ yourself!” ● EYDE NAMED AT CARRERA: Spanish jewelry fi rm Carrera y Reinvention appears to be name of the game tracking research. Appearing Thursdays in these Carrera has named Evemarie Eyde vice president of sales for in this fall’s apparel choices, particularly in the pages, each story will focus on a specific topic as it the U.S. and the Caribbean. Eyde replaced Raquel Schuttler, category of denim. “Jeans are always a classic, but relates to the American consumer and her attitudes who left the company in May 2005. Eyde was once national re- there are ways of keeping denim updated and and behavior regarding clothing, tail director at Christofl e and has had various roles at Tiffany & interesting,” promises Paige Adams Geller, founder appearance, fashion, fiber selection and Co., most recently sales manager of the fi rm’s Greenwich, Conn., of Paige Premium Denim, a fashionable collection many other timely, relevant subjects. store. Eyde reports to Nathalie Guedj, the former president and chief executive offi cer of Van Cleef & Arpels in the Americas, who was named managing director of Carrera last month. WWD, THURSDAY, AUGUST 10, 2006 3 WWD.COM MEMO PAD London Fog Licensing Group

I WANT MY US WEEKLY: Jann Wenner’s $300 million purchase of the other 50 percent stake in Us Weekly could be read Looks to Revitalize Brand as a sign of genius or fear, depending on whom you ask. On one hand, the By Vicki M. Young celebrity weekly has become the cash cow of Wenner Media, which also NEW YORK — With a potential new owner wait- includes the marginally profi table Men’s ing to take over, the London Fog brand will try to Journal and the struggling Rolling Stone. make a comeback. But the big question Wednesday was: The London Fog Licensing Group, a venture Is Us Weekly really worth $600 million? formed by Gordon Brothers Group, Hilco Brands According to Publishers Information and Osgoode Financial Inc., announced that Bureau, the title earned $201 million Seattle-based London Fog Group has agreed to sell dollars in ad revenue alone in 2005, up its namesake trademarks to the licensing group for 10 percent from the prior year. Plus, the $18.1 million. However, because the company is in magazine earns more than $3 million bankruptcy, the deal is subject to better offers at a a week selling over a million copies on court auction set for Aug. 17 in Las Vegas, where the newsstand, according to publisher’s bankruptcy papers were fi led. estimates for the fi rst half of 2006. “Our plan is to reengineer the brand and repo- According to sources, Us Weekly is sition it for a dynamic entry back into the market- slated to make roughly $60 million in place,” said Stephen Miller, co-president of the profi ts this year; the title lost $34 million retail division at Gordon Brothers and co-chief in 2001, its fi rst year as a weekly. And, provided demand for the celeb weekly stays executive offi cer of London Fog Licensing Group. ravenous, Us Weekly’s profi ts could grow even more. “It’s a bargain” for Wenner, said The repositioning of the brand was undertaken one source. in the last 18 months, and London Fog intends to Disney bought the 50 percent stake in 2001, but has been purging noncore assets target the aspirational customer. Although now in its such as science monthly Discover, which Bob Guccione Jr. bought last year. And the second tour of bankruptcy proceedings, the business entertainment conglomerate may have cut ties to Us Weekly as it focuses on its stable model for London Fog, which generates less than $1 of family magazines Family Fun, Wondertime and Disney Adventures. “The magazine million in volume, projects $350 million in annual has been managed superbly by Jann Wenner and his team,” said Disney chief fi nancial wholesale and licensing revenues in fi ve years, said offi cer Tom Staggs during a Wednesday earnings call. “We paid roughly $40 million for David Greenstein, ceo of the London Fog Group. our stake in this asset in 2001, so our investment has generated an outstanding return,” Greenstein’s fi rm, Homestead Fabrics, bought said Staggs. (Sources close to Wenner say that number was nearer to $23 million.) the London Fog brand when it was in Chap. 11 in Both companies seem fi nancially satisfi ed. Moreover, Wenner may have diverted November 2004 and renamed the company London potential meddling by a new partner, had Disney sold its Us stake to another buyer. Fog Group, which has since sold its Pacifi c Trail “Traditionally, Jann has not liked having partners and has preferred going it alone,” business. After the sale of London Fog is complet- said Reed Phillips, managing partner at investment bank DeSilva & Phillips. “The idea ed, Greenstein plans to restructure the holding Disney might sell its stake to an outside party was probably distasteful to Jann.” company to focus only on the home textiles busi- While analysts speculated the company raised the $300 million by borrowing from ness and might revert the corporate name back to banks, buying back Disney’s share simplifi es any future sale of the Wenner franchise, Homestead. A brushed double-face twill which now owns its three magazines outright. One media observer suspected Wenner Greenstein said the London Fog Group met its trenchcoat and double-face silk could get “at least $1 billion for the whole thing,” and believed a sale could happen in fall 2005 deliveries, but then shut down the brand twill narrow pants from London fi ve years. — Stephanie D. Smith and Irin Carmon in order to reposition it. Fog for fall. “We found that the consumer [thinks of] the JUMPSUIT CINDI: After 67 years of running photos brand to be quite aspirational,’’ he said. “Most of its aspirational qualities were in- of fashion travesties from exposed body parts to herited. There is recognition of the brand even among relatively young people.” oversize hairdos on its “Dos & Don’ts” page, Glamour Greenstein doesn’t believe that the fi ve-year plan is too ambitious for a com- and Gotham Books on Sept. 7 will compile such pany doing less than $1 million a year, partly because the brand won’t be just tragedies — and advice on how to avoid them outerwear and raincoats. The new London Fog will also feature sportswear, and — in the “Big Book of Dos & Don’ts: Fashion Help later will be followed by licensing for the accessories categories. for Every Woman,” which has an initial print run In addition to selling in nine Neiman Marcus doors, Greenstein said he could of 100,000. Glamour also is launching a Web envision the London Fog brand at Nordstrom, Saks Fifth Avenue and Barneys site, glamourdosanddonts.com, which includes New York. “We were on the cusp of getting orders from Harvey Nichols, Harrods “Dontspotting,” where readers can submit their own and some of the Japanese department stores before the bankruptcy fi ling,” seen-on-the-street “don’ts” to the site. Greenstein said. In the book, Glamour editors and designers The company in November launched its Web site and in February offered a including Michael Kors, Isaac Mizrahi, Diane von selection of its updated raincoat styles at a retail price point of $1,000. “People… Furstenberg and Alexander McQueen provide tips on bought the raincoats over the Web for $1,000 each and so far there has not been how women can dress their best: “Don’t wear tons one return,” he said. of supertight clothing” (read: leggings maybe; never leggings and bodysuits), “Don’t wear what everyone else is wearing” (read: ditch leggings if your girlfriend has them) and “Don’t fall for a trend that makes no sense in your life” (read: burn the leggings if you’re not an aerobics instructor). M. Fabrikant Facing Suits Over Invoices The book includes 700 photos from “Dos & NEW YORK — M. Fabrikant & Sons, the $1 billion fine jewelry and diamond firm, Don’ts” photographer Ronnie Andren that inspire faces two lawsuits over $7.5 million in unpaid invoices. chuckles over women’s less-than-logical fashion The lawsuits were fi led in Manhattan federal court and claim the company choices — one such pick is an asymmetric jumpsuit has stated that it is having fi nancial problems. M. Fabrikant declined to comment circa 1983 worn by Glamour editor in chief Cindi Leive Wednesday. that makes her look like a punked-out Smurf (a photo Blue Star, a diamond manufacturer, importer and exporter based in Mumbai, of her wearing the frock is featured in the book’s India, fi led a lawsuit against M. Fabrikant seeking $5.6 million in unpaid invoic- introduction). es. K P Sanghvi & Sons, also a diamond supplier based in Mumbai, fi led a similar “Some ‘don’ts’ only become clear with the wisdom lawsuit for $1.9 million. of hindsight,” Leive said in self-defense. So while the According to court documents in both cases, M. Fabrikant told Blue Star and K jumpsuit seemed appropriate at the time — “I wore P Sanghvi that it could not pay its invoices “due to dire fi nancial circumstances.” that to calculus class,” she declared — it often takes Earlier this week, M. Fabrikant formed a joint venture — Fabrikant-Tara a season or three to realize a favorite outfi t is a dud. International — with Tara Jewels, one of the largest jewelry producers in India. Nevertheless, most offenses, said Leive, are due to The new fi rm, which includes the operations of M. Fabrikant & Sons subsidiary Cindi Leive jumps for joy. a lack of clothing. “Half of the ‘don’ts’ in this book are Fabrikant-Leer International Ltd., will produce a range of unbranded diamond about overexposure,” which is why skin-friendly Miami and colored-stone jewelry. is where the most “don’ts” photos originate. “Without Miami, this book would not be The company said it reached a new agreement with its domestic lenders and what it is,” said Leive. But Andren also snaps plenty of photos at “NASCAR events, that it was seeking a new agreement with its foreign lenders. [New Orleans’] Jazzfest and county fairs upstate and in the Midwest. Anywhere where The cases were fi led separately — K P Sanghvi’s on July 28 and Blue Star’s on there’s big hair, he can be found.” — S.D.S. Aug. 1. Court documents were not immediately available. M. Fabrikant & Sons is a family-owned-and-operated business founded here in BREAKING NEWS IS HARD TO DO: Condé Nast is whipping its magazines to step up 1895. In the Fifties, the company started expanding internationally into Antwerp, their Web presence, and a sign of future strategies for the Vogues, Portfolios and Belgium; Tel Aviv, and Mumbai, setting up manufacturing and trading offi ces, and Vanity Fairs of the world may be coming from GQ. The magazine’s exclusive with other companies followed suit. Abu Ghraib whistle-blower Joe Darby comes with a standard “Good Morning America” The company has a number of subsidiaries, including Suzy Fabrikant; Robert appearance today; what’s new is that the magazine is simultaneously posting online Lee Morris, a designer jewelry line, and Simmons Jewelry Co., in which the the accompanying story, written by Wil S. Hylton. The posting will come roughly fi rm is a partner with Def Jam Records founder Russell Simmons and his wife, two weeks before the September issue of GQ containing the story hits newsstands Kimora Lee, who designs the Hello Kitty by Kimora Lee Simmons collection, nationally. Baby steps for the nonstop-refresh Internet age, but giant steps for the which was launched at wholesale in June. glossies. — I.C. — Liza Casabona 4 WWD, THURSDAY, AUGUST 10, 2006 WWD.COM

A self-portrait by Terry Richardson, 1983. “Trust the Man” co-star Maggie Punk Gyllenhaal. Attitude NEW YORK — Even in his teens, Terry Richardson was laying the grainy, seedy foundation for his signature imagery. A show of the fi rst 15 rolls of fi lm he ever shot opens Saturday at Glenn Horowitz Booksellers in East Hampton and runs through Sept. I LOVE YOUR WORK 16. Richardson will be on hand to NEW YORK — In real life, sign his book “FTW” on Aug. 19. actress Julianne Moore is Shot around Ojai, the Los Angeles the wife of movie director suburb where Richardson moved Bart Freundlich. And in with his mother at the age of 16, the the new movie “Trust photos document the emergence of the Man,” which punk in Southern California and the Freundlich wrote and rebellious life of teenage America at directed, she plays the beginning of the Eighties. Here, an actress whose Richardson talks about growing up in California, his punk of photography, so I just took pictures here and there. husband is coping roots, and how he got from there to shooting a nude Kate The punk rock scene from the early Eighties was called with a sex addiction Moss or, better yet, capturing porn stars smearing bodily Nardcore, and all the pictures are taken in different and insecurity fl uids across their faces. people’s bedrooms or when we would go out and party or issues related to his — Derek Blasberg see bands playing in American Legion Halls. wife’s fame. “I love your work,” says WWD: Are these images an appropriate representation of one person after WWD: When were these pictures taken? Ojai life in the early Eighties? another in the fi lm, Terry Richardson: My mom gave me a snapshot camera T.R.: An appropriate representation? (Chuckles) Well, as the woman’s when I was in high school. At the time, it wasn’t like I there’s a lot of pictures of punk rock and beer, so I guess husband (played wanted to be a photographer. She just thought it would it sort of is. This was a small town. Like, it had one traffi c by David Duchovny) be cool to take some shots of me and my friends. This was light and a 10 o’clock police-enforced curfew. tries not to get at the end of 1982, and I was very naïve to the whole art annoyed. WWD: From looking at the pictures, it seems safe to Needless to Photographs by Richardson, assume you weren’t home by 10 p.m. What did you do say, some of it is taken in 1983, here and below. for fun? autobiographical. T.R.: My house was the crash pad. We used to hang out and “That’s certainly party at my mom’s ’cause she was pretty cool. She didn’t from my own life, and care if we drank there or smoked weed. It was just after the being with Julianne,” Seventies and Ecstasy was legal. I remember when I went Freundlich admitted at to a club in Ventura and they were giving out jars of Ecstasy. the movie premiere’s after party, held Monday night WWD: What else was around? at Home in the West 20s T.R.: Lots of acid, lots of booze, lots of coke — lots of coke. and sponsored by the New You could get anything: Vicodin, Percodan, whatever. York Observer and Calvin Julianne Klein Collection. “What Moore in WWD: The cover of “FTW” has a newspaper clipping of a really annoys me is when Bottega “Terrence Richardson” who was involved in a nasty car they walk up to her and say, Veneta. crash. What happened? ‘What did I see you in?’ or ‘I just loved you T.R.: I was driving my Volvo, which I had for about a week. on the X-Files.’” I had taken two Quaaludes and drunk about 15 beers and Is Moore actually confused for Gillian blacked out doing 70 miles per hour. When I woke up, the Anderson? “Less now that she’s more car was wrapped around this pole. I walked away from famous,” Freundlich replied. the crash, though, and even tried to start the car. Yeah, 75 But Moore explained the “I love your stitches and I had a head like Frankenstein. I wish I had work” opening line is less frowned upon by taken pictures of that. celebrities than it is by their spouses. “I feel incredibly fl attered when people say it,” the WWD: Did all that make you the cool kid in high school? actress said. T.R.: I guess, kind of. I mean, I went to Hollywood High Ditto for Duchovny: “I’m just happy they before I moved to Ojai and I was born in New York, which call it work!” I’m sure was cool to these people in “Upstate L.A.,” which is what I call it. There weren’t any punks in Ojai, so my David neighbor and I started cutting people’s hair and started Duchovny the scene there. This was before punk was in the mall and and his on MTV. But there were still preppies and other cliques, wife, Téa too. The jocks drove by in pickup trucks and threw bottles Leoni. at our house because they hated us.

WWD: So where have these pictures been? T.R.: They’ve just been sitting in my mom’s closet in my old bedroom. About seven years ago, I was cleaning it out and stumbled upon this dusty box of pictures and negatives. I forgot all about them; after these pictures, I think I sold the camera or something and didn’t pick up another one for about fi ve years.

WWD: Why not? T.R.: I didn’t want to be a photographer. I wanted to play music and be a rock star. I didn’t have a mentor telling me to take pictures and encouraging me. But when the music thing didn’t work out, I became a photographer’s assistant. And then I caught the bug.

WWD: What do the images say to you about the pictures you take now? T.R.: I look fondly back on these renegade days of my youth. Not the partying or anything, but it’s still the spirit that I have always adhered to. When I do work that I like, it feels like a great punk song, like a burst of adrenaline. I’ve always kept this spirit in me, or some sort of connection to it. But it’s not like I’m romanticizing it or anything. It’s just cool. PREMIERE PHOTOS BY STEVE EICHNER PREMIERE PHOTOS BY Yasmin “Queenz” Deliz The Princess of Reggaeton www.southpole-usa.com 6 WWD, THURSDAY, AUGUST 10, 2006 Taking It Personally NEW YORK — FYI, it’s all about DIY. Once a domain of grandmas and club kids, do-it-yourself is going mainstream. Patterns of Influence By the Book This fall, a trio of how-to paperbacks, published by Wiley, hits stores Sept. 19. Each book includes how-to instructions for beginners, an assortment of intermediate and advanced projects, and original patterns. Here, crafty thoughts from the three authors. — S.T. NOT YOUR MAMA’S BEADING: THE COOL AND CREATIVE WAY TO STRING ’EM ALONG. By Kate Shoup Welsh. NOT YOUR MAMA’S CROCHET: THE COOL AND CREATIVE WAY TO JOIN THE CHAIN GANG. By Amy Swenson. NOT YOUR MAMA’S KNITTING: THE COOL AND CREATIVE WAY TO PICK UP STICKS. By Heather Dixon. WWD: What’s your best tip for begin- WWD: What’s the biggest misconcep- ners? tion about your craft? Kate Shoup Welsh: Invest in the best K.W.: One, that beading is easy, and tools that you can afford. two, that it’s hard. The truth lies Amy Swenson: Always check your somewhere in the middle: It isn’t gauge. easy, but you don’t have to be a Heather Dixon: Pick a light- or bright- rocket scientist to do it. colored smooth yarn so you can see A.S.: That crochet is the crazy, cat- your stitches clearly. Keep away collecting aunt of knitting. from black or fuzzy yarns until you H.D.: That knitting is only for the get the hang of it. over-60, novelty-sweater brigade.

WWD: Describe the one piece you’re WWD: Do you have a favorite de- most proud of. signer? K.W.: A necklace with purple, clear K.W.: I tend to prefer vintage, which and blue glass beads, and a boat- is really just another way of saying load of light sapphire Swarovski I can’t afford anything else. bicones. It’s a piece you could wear A.S.: I’m always inspired by what to the Oscars. I wound up selling Michael Kors does with cabled it — it broke my heart, but a girl’s knitwear, and I could happily wear gotta eat. Betsey Johnson every day and night. A.S.: My Squiggle Scarf pattern. It’s H.D.: I admire the colors and crazy super-easy crochet and is perfect graphics used by Walter Van for teaching beginners, yet still Beirendonck. looks like something you’d buy in a Wendy Mullin in her boutique. WWD: What’s your motto? store on Centre Market H.D.: My fi nal men’s wear collection K.W.: Never be afraid to experiment. Place in Manhattan. at university: eight outfi ts using A.S.: You can never have too much PHOTO BY ROBERT MITRA ROBERT PHOTO BY bright fl uffy yarns and unexpected yarn. But maybe that’s just a ratio- THERE ARE A FEW THINGS YOU LEARN ABOUT DOWNTOWN DESIGNER WENDY intarsias, worn with assless black nalization for the size of my stash. Mullin in her upcoming September book, “Sew U,” a how-to guide to all things sartorial by rubber jeans. H.D.: Will there be cake? Bulfi nch Press. First, the woman behind the popular prep-cum-rocker label Built by Wendy was a high school home-ec kind of gal. Second, the 35-year-old Illinois native still uses the same sewing machine her grandfather bought her when she graduated from high school. And third, she embraces a democratic attitude when it comes to her designs. After all, it takes a pretty secure designer of customized, crafty clothes to write a handbook instructing its readers in making customized, crafty clothes themselves, complete with patterns from Mothers of Purl Mullin’s own line. “Someone once asked me, ‘Are you worried about going out of business since all your customers are going to be making your own clothes?’ ” Mullin says. “I was like, no. I mean, that DIVA ZAPPA IS THE LAST PERSON YOU’D EXPECT TO would be crazy. As far as giving my patterns away, people can come in and buy my shirt and fi nd shopping for yarn at Knit Cafe. Yet despite her hot copy the pattern anyway. I’m confi dent with myself and like to share what I have.” pink and orange hair — last week it was blue — and her And Mullin’s not stopping with the three basic Built by Wendy patterns in “Sew U.” She rock-royalty lineage, the youngest offspring of Frank Zappa also has signed a deal with Simplicity for a line of sewing patterns called Built by You. In this would rather spend her time whipping up a multicolored area, she’s following in the footsteps of Donna Karan and Anna Sui, and even designers like poncho than just about anything else. “I look like I should Alice + Olivia’s Stacy Bendet, who all have deals with Vogue Patterns. Mullin’s retail for $14.95 be a crazy drug addict, but, really, all I do is knit, drink tea each and made their debut in July with four looks — jacket, blouse, shirt and pants — with and hang out with my kitties,” says the actress, who plays additional sets planned for upcoming seasons. Babs in the upcoming fi lm “Pledge This!” “I’m like a 97- “I got really involved,” Mullin says, “like designing the whole catalogue and packaging.” year-old woman trapped in a 27-year-old’s body.” She’s even added a “Project Runway”-esque element with a contest. Customers can submit Zappa is part of a new and well-chronicled generation photos of their fi nal Built by You designs, to be judged by the designer and her team in that’s embracing a hobby once relegated to the sampler October, for a chance to win a $100 gift certifi cate. In the meantime, submissions will be posted set. And these days, young knitters are fi nding a growing on the Built by Wendy Web site. number of new places to gather: knitting cafes. From Los The project with Simplicity was the result of the designer’s book. “I contacted [the pattern Angeles — where Zappa shops at the appropriately named maker] to print the patterns for ‘Sew U’ and we just kind of hit it off,” she explains. “The Knit Cafe on Melrose Avenue — to downtown New York company offered to do a licensing deal with me.” The book, meanwhile, was the product of and everywhere in between, women are meeting like- a random e-mail the designer received two years ago from a customer. “She was like, ‘I love minded DIYers to hone their skills together over coffee to sew and I think a book would be a great idea,’” Mullin says. As it turns out, the woman and cake. And in the process, they’re creating a new happened to be literary agent Caroline Greeven. social network. Some are taking it to even greater lengths, Mullin’s interest in DIY, however, goes way back — as a child, she used to accompany her selling their handmade goods at independent stores and The Spiders can mother to fabric stores in Evanston, Ill. “My mom is really into the book,” Mullin says. “It e-tailers. Zappa, for instance, just launched her own Web be found at The would be cool if one day I met a fashion designer and she was like, ‘Yeah, I started my line site, DivaZappa.com, where she will soon be displaying Point NYC every because I got your book when I was 12.’ That would be awesome.” and selling her hand-knit hats, scarves and ponchos for Friday night. — Venessa Lau prices that start at $100. WWD, THURSDAY, AUGUST 10, 2006 7 WWD.COM Yarn Work TO HEAR TWINKLE DESIGNER WENLAN Chia tell it, knitting is much like analytical mathematics. “Once the artist [in you] creates, you have to take care of the technical part, make that thing in your head come to life,” the Taiwanese native explains, sitting in her Eighth Avenue showroom in New York. “You have to solve a lot of problems,” she says, while pulling out a knitted sea foam green jacket to demonstrate her point. Indeed, it’s quite a complex project, with its hourglass shape, oversize collar, puff sleeves and lack of seams, done in one swoop with mere knitting needles. Surrounded by splashy rugs, bedspreads and furnishings from her newly launched Twinkle Living home collection, Chia describes how she got started in the fashion game and how her fi rst endeavor — a sweater whose sketch she submitted to an Onward Kashiyama design contest seven years ago — forced her to consider fashion from this left- brain perspective. “When I won and they said Twinkle by Wenlan’s silk I had to make it,” she recalls, “it pushed me to actually solve and cotton camisole. the problems that I had created in the sketch.” The pattern is available Now Chia is letting her customers do a little problem- inin thethe upcomingupcoming solving of their own with this month’s launch of Twinkle “Twinkle’s Big City yarns. Come spring, she’ll lend them a helping hand with Knits” book. ▲ the debut of a pattern book, “Twinkle’s Big City Knits.” They’re just two more additions to her steadily growing six- year-old business. Besides knit garments — her company’s bread and butter — Twinkle also includes sportswear, costume jewelry and Twinkle Living; a fi ne jewelry launch is planned for next year. Twinkle Handknits Yarn includes three categories of spun fi ber: Soft Chunky (virgin merino wool), Kids Mohair (a wool, mohair and acrylic blend) and Cruise (a silk and cotton blend). So far, the line, which retails from $6 to $18 per skein of yarn, has picked up 15 retail accounts at crafts stores such as Knitwits in Bayside, N.Y.; Hill Country Weavers in Austin, Tex., and Loops in Knoxville, Tenn. “We developed this yarn from a fashion design point of view,” Chia says. The colors, for example, range from lilac to sapphire, cranberry to parrot green. “It’s hard to fi nd quality yarn in, like, a vibrant mauve. Fashion-forward people can knit with colors that accommodate their designer wardrobe,” she says, adding that “luxurious yarns are so rarely found in the market.” The book, published by Clarkson Potter, includes 32 patterns from Chia’s own line. “I’m trying to bring a new concept to knitting,” she says. “I don’t think knitters need another pattern book, you know? We want this to be appreciated as a fashion book as well.” And don’t think Chia harbors any qualms about handing out her Twinkle secrets. “When you create something, it’s not like you give it out and you don’t have it anymore,” she says. “I think it’s interesting to see other people appreciate, for instance, our sweaters. “I really want [Twinkle] to become a house, this lifestyle brand,” she continues. And to think that, once upon a time in Taiwan, she had aspirations of a very different sort. “I studied sociology in college,” Chia says, “and had very idealistic thoughts about graduating and changing the world, none of this crafty thing.” — V.L. Twinkle’s Wenlan Chia in her showroom. PORTRAIT BY KYLE ERICKSEN; INSET BY JOHN AQUINO ERICKSEN; INSET BY KYLE BY PORTRAIT

According to a 2004 survey conducted by the Craft Yarn about six years ago. Marie Carney, 28, is an opera singer and Council of America, about 53 million women nationwide knit paralegal who spins, dyes and sells her own yarn in her spare or crochet. Of those, 33 percent are in the 25- to 34-year-old time. She has two wheels set up inside her Brooklyn apartment, demographic. “These knitting cafes refl ect why this trend has and last week launched BrooklynHandspun.com, where she mushroomed,” says Mary Colucci, executive director of the sells handmade skeins for $22 each. Some of Carney’s creations CYCA. “Women today are also using them as a way to connect can be purchased at The Point NYC, and she is in the process with each other.” of wholesaling to other stores, too. Jessica Cary, a charity- Suzan Mischer should know. In 2002, she opened Knit Cafe, fund manager, just fi nished making herself a camisole out of coining the popular term and beginning the yarn store-cum- cotton and Tencel yarn; she’s now on to her next project, a coffee shop trend. Her fi rst book, “Greetings From Knit Cafe,” hooded wool pullover that will be ready well before the season was released in May. “For my store, it’s more about the knitting changes. “I always try to make something that’s classic. If I draw than the cafe draw, but the more accommodating the shop want something trendy, I’ll go to Forever 21,” says Cary, 28, who can be makes it even nicer for people to get together,” says also dyes her own yarn and sells it at Etsy.com, a handmade Mischer. Currently, her store is home to about four groups that goods e-tailer. “One of the best things about knitting is how I’ve gather every week to sip cappuccino and share their knit-and- met people that I’ve automatically connected with because we purl techniques. Many of those knitters, she says, have branched have this great thing to share,” she adds, noting that she’s met out to start their own mini businesses. “After I opened the store, most of her friends through knitting. I started a beginners’ class and one of the girls in it turned Helane Blumfi eld started knitting in 2000 to calm her around and sold the scarf she had just made,” Mischer says. “I nerves after 9/11, and opened The Point NYC in March 2005. don’t know if it’s just an impulse to sell or the fact that these “Most New Yorkers live in small apartments, so my idea was knitters need to justify their expensive yarn purchases.” to make the store like a living room, where they could come On a recent Friday night in New York’s West Village, a group and hang out,” says Blumfi eld, whose boutique will offer of women who call themselves the Spiders — they all knit and about six knitting classes this fall. “But I had no idea of the have blogs on the Web — are seated around a long farm table extent to which it would take. I love how so many women have at The Point NYC, one of two knitting hangouts in Manhattan. found friendship in something they have in common.” Still, There are 20 Spiders in all, but on this particular evening, 11 of Blumfi eld admits that such camaraderie is just a small part of them have gathered at the cafe. Carrie Melago, a crime reporter her store’s business. When it comes down to it, her end goal, for the New York Daily News, is crocheting a lacy sweater aside from selling yarn, is to share her passion for knitting. Or, for her mother’s birthday — which was in June. “She picked as Zappa puts it, “The realization that what you just made was something complicated for me to make, so she understands that once a dangling piece of string is an amazing feeling.”

PHOTO BY STEVE EICHNER PHOTO BY it’s late,” says Melago, 30, who began knitting and crocheting — Sarah Taylor 8 WWD, THURSDAY, AUGUST 10, 2006 WWD.COM

A look from Denim Dish Following the ‘Golden’ Rule Proportionofblu’s Terrell Wick and Richard Atkins want to stand out in the premium fall collection. denim market with Proportionofblu, a San Francisco-based denim line that incorporates a mathematical principle known as the golden ratio thought to have been used by Leonardo da Vinci. Jeany’s One-Track Mind: Launching for fall, Proportionofblu bases its patterns on the golden ratio, a number that describes the relationship between three lines. The longest line is 1.618 times the length of the second longest, which is 1.618 All Denim, All the Time times the length of the shortest. The golden ratio turns up frequently in geometry, particularly in fi gures with pentagonal symmetry. Jeany, a fl edgling Los Angeles retailer, wants to be This reoccurring sequence of measurements, co-designers Wick and the fast food of denim. Atkins said, can be found in the Egyptian Pyramids, the human body’s Its prices, however, aren’t for the budget-con- proportions and even in da Vinci’s “Mona Lisa.” By using the golden ratio scious. to determine the placement of the pockets and rivets, Atkins said he and The company, which launched its fi rst store at the Wick are able to produce a garment that compliments the body. Irvine Spectrum Center in Irvine, Calif., this April, The pair, who met in 2003 and are the creative forces behind a yoga is to open another location on Montana Avenue in accessories line called TKUU, are making their fi rst foray into apparel Santa Monica, Calif., this month. design. Wick graduated from the San Francisco Academy of Art College “We do want to carry the same brands as ev- in 2001. Atkins attended the University of Central England and worked at eryone else,” said Neal Gaydos, vice president, Vivienne Westwood Studios in London, where he learned pattern-cutting. general merchandise manager and creative direc- Proportionofblu will use only Japanese denim in the initial collection tor of Jeany Inc. “These stores are meant to be the and offer four women’s styles in two washes and two men’s styles. All the McDonald’s or Starbucks of denim — meaning con- hardware, including 18-karat gold rivets, will be custom-made in Italy. venient and accessible.” Wick and Atkins focused on skinny and straight-leg styles and offered only The concept is simple. “We sell just denim,’’ he one boot cut for women. The jeans will wholesale for $95 to $115. said. “No T-shirts, no belts, no shoes. Ever.” Wick and Atkins said they are also collaborating with veteran denim designer In a city of established jeans sellers, Gaydos thinks Adriano Goldschmied, to perfect their washes, which will be dark and clean. there is room for one more, though he’s hesitant to Among the retailers that ordered Proportionofblu’s fi rst collection are discuss strategy. Riccardi in Boston, American Rag and Fred Segal in Los Angeles, Villains “If a brand sells everywhere, it means it’s good,” in San Francisco and Barneys New York and Atrium in New York. Wick and he said. “Competition is good.” Atkins expect to generate $1 million in fi rst-year wholesale sales. The chal- The store is half a block from a new Lucky Brand lenge will be introducing an abstract concept such as the golden ratio to Jeans location — owned by Gaydos’ personal friend shoppers who care about trends and a good fi t. Gene Montesano — but Jeany will stock a selection of “We think that our customers will understand the uniqueness,” Richard Lucky Brand denim. Derr, sales director at Kapsule, the Los Angeles showroom representing “Gene’s fi ne with us being here,” Gaydos said as Proportionofblu, wrote in an e-mail. “However, the beauty and workmanship of he strolled up the street, stopping pedestrians to the product will also grab the attention of buyers and be a strong selling point.” ask what brand of jeans they were wearing. Atkins and Wick are already looking to move the brand beyond denim and Gaydos, who worked with retailer Ron Herman as are working on a ready-to-wear line that will include knit jersey tops and bam- a buyer for Fred Segal from 1976 to 1988, said Jeany boo fabric, always in keeping with the golden ratio. wants to tap into the mass market, although the store “It just works for us,” Wick said. “We are both mathematically inclined and stocks mostly premium denim brands, including a this allows us to challenge ourselves.” handful imported from Europe and Asia. — Lilliam Rivera

The store’s cheapest jeans — from Salt, based in MIKE ROSENTHAL PHOTO BY New York — ring in at $138. The boutique’s most expensive pair, by Great Wall of China, is $1,500. The Jeany units are almost jarringly monochro- matic, a sea of indigo in a loft-like setting. “We don’t want big stores, but under one small roof, we want all the good brands and all the sizes,” Gaydos said. Jeans and denim pieces for men and women, in- cluding shorts, skirts, shirts and jackets, are shown on redwood and copper tables and display pieces. Plain white walls complete the “red, white and blue theme,” he said. The Santa Monica boutique, at 980 square feet, is smaller and has less selection than its 1,250- square-foot sibling in Irvine, but Gaydos said the offerings are tailored to a more fashion-conscious shopper because of Santa Monica’s proximity to G-Star Fetes London Opening Los Angeles. The Irvine store houses 137 styles of jeans from 31 brands. Amsterdam-based denim brand G-Star opened its lat- Labels include Citizens of Humanity, Seven, Blue est store Wednesday in London’s Covent Garden, and Cult, Joe’s Jeans, Diesel and Replay; less ubiquitous has its sights set on rolling out another 23 units this brands such as Ever, Stronghold and Earnest Sewn; year in cities across the globe, including Reykjavik, reissued classics from Wrangler and Lee, and styles Iceland, Seoul, Istanbul and San Diego, Calif. from foreign jeans fi rms such as Italy’s My Ass and “We want G-Star to be the go-to brand for every- Japan’s Kunna. one,” said Casper White, sales manager for the U.K. Gaydos and his partners, Sia Salek and Ramesh The 230-square-foot store refl ects the brand’s strat- people can always get what they are looking for.” Manglani, had seen Jeany as a franchise that would egy of appealing to as many customers as possible, The store was designed by G-Star’s in-house team import foreign brands and export U.S. brands. “It’s placing its specialist and fashion lines alongside the and features polished concrete fl oors, solid wood pan- the grass-is-always-greener effect,” Gaydos said. full basic denim ranges. els, exposed brick walls and clean lines. Though the original concept was modifi ed (many “We want to be stylish, but remain accessible,” said “G-Star has a very industrial feel to it,” said U.S. brands are represented in the stores), the com- White. “If we launch a new line, we keep it for four or White. pany hopes in the next three years to open in nine fi ve years because we want people to come back and The Covent Garden venue was key; the brand had foreign markets: Shanghai, Moscow, Amsterdam, repeat-buy. Our best-selling jeans style is something eyed the 200-year-old warehouse for several years. Singapore, Hong Kong, Dubai, Prague, Barcelona we launched 10 years ago and we also have approxi- The building is situated amid a clutch of premium and Mexico City. Domestically, the company plans mately 800 pairs of jeans constantly in stock, so that sports and streetwear boutiques, and previously to launch one more store in Southern California housed the skatewear store Bailey’s. and units in Seattle, Miami and New York. A feature of the new G-Star shop is the Jeans Wall, — Emili Vesilind an entire wall of shelves stacked with every denim style in every waist size, including half-sizes, and in Neal Gaydos at four lengths. Jeany in Irvine, Calif. “Anyone can get anything they want quickly,” said White. The store houses the basic G-Star range of wom- en’s and men’s jeans, accessories and a small range of fashion and sports items, which include utility-style hooded sweatshirts, chunky leather belts and printed T-shirts. Basic jeans are priced between $130 and $219, and the premium range of handcrafted jeans retails for $280 to $340. Next on the agenda is retail expansion and a footwear line due to be introduced at the end of 2007. “I think we still can grow, particularly in the wom- en’s wear sector,” said White. Here and above: The new G-Star store in Covent Garden. — Lucie Greene PHOTO BY DONATO SARDELLA DONATO PHOTO BY TIM JENKINS PHOTOS BY WWD, THURSDAY, AUGUST 10, 2006 9 WWD.COM The Beat Holiday Items Get Big Play at Intermezzo By Julee Greenberg pleased with the orders they placed. Vera Wang was at the show for the fi rst time with its Lavender label. NEW YORK — The Intermezzo show was at a new loca- “We are getting a great reaction and have signed on a tion, but that didn’t deter buyers or vendors looking to bunch of new accounts,” said Cary Jackson, ready-to-wear pick up pieces for holiday and resort selling. and Lavender label sales representative at Vera Wang. ENK International’s Intermezzo is usually at the “We are starting to do well with some of the day dresses, Show Piers here, but because of construction at the pas- which will continue more and more in the line.” senger ship terminals, the locale was changed to the For holiday and resort, the collection included a Jacob K. Javits Convention Center. Elyse Kroll, president best-selling navy and black silk spaghetti-strap dress, a of ENK, said the shows will be back at the piers once slipper satin navy dress with a sequin drop waist and a construction is fi nished in time for Coterie in September. taffeta black gown. The event ended its three-day run on Tuesday. “The line has a lot of mixed details, which Vera has “I just loved having it at the Javits Center. For the buy- become known for,” Jackson said. “Mixing the luxe with ers, it made our lives so much easier,’’ said Stacy Pecor, casual, people love it.” owner of Olive & Bette’s four boutiques here. “I hope The Vera Wang Lavender label line wholesales from we can go back again. Overall, I thought it was a good $160 to $420. show. It was nice to get a preview on spring and re- At the William Rast booth, Fred Naggar, brand direc- sort is becoming such an important season.” tor for the Los Angeles-based company, said retailers Pecor said she will buy a great deal from what have been demanding quality jeans, so it raised price she saw at Intermezzo. points along with quality. The William Rast line whole- “We are looking for items to sell for holiday, so sales from $85 to $105. I looked at a lot of lingerie vendors. Underglam For holiday, William Rast has done well with dark looked great,” she said. “Shoshanna looked great. washes in skinny styles, Naggar said. For fall, the brand We do really well with her swimwear, so it was will be sold in Neiman Marcus, Bloomingdale’s, Saks Fifth nice to see the sportswear looking so good. I Avenue and Nordstrom, among other specialty retailers. also loved Tibi. It looks amazing. She has real- “We will be in all 98 Nordstrom doors, which is a big ly gained her own look and feel; when I wear jump from the seven doors we began in,” he said. it, people stop me on the street. It’s just a ter- The company plans a big launch of a full lifestyle col- rifi c line and it looks better than ever.” lection for spring 2007 selling that goes beyond jeans, Pecor said she also liked Rachel Naggar said. The line will include woven and knit tops Paley’s line, Alice & Trixie, Susanna as well as outerwear. Monaco and a new line called Tehya. From left: Panticular, a new line from Alex Garfi eld and his Justin Timberlake, a partner in the line, is also very “I really loved the long dresses that are partner Jaime Nortman, will launch this fall. Vera Wang’s involved. “Justin demands quality, and nothing gets by going to be out for spring and resort,” she said. Lavender label was at the Intermezzo show for the fi rst without his approval,” Naggar said. “Being in New York, I was never sure about time. William Rast is preparing to launch a full lifestyle Alex Garfi eld and Jaime Nortman, founders of the long dresses, since it’s hard to get in and out of collection at Project in Las Vegas later this month. GM Design Group, were at Intermezzo with their line cabs, things like that, but they just look so pretty, Panticular, which is launching for fall. The collection, I know we will do well with them.” which is almost entirely made of a polyester-viscose- Christen Wecksler, buyer for Girlshop, both Robin, a line at Showroom Seven and Madison Lycra fabric, is based around simple, clean pants with the freestanding store here on Washington Street Marcus, which is represented by the Focus a misses’ fi t. and the Web site, was also pleased with the Javits showroom. “These are simple, clean, understandable clothes, location. “I have been a little upset about the direc- and the stores are loving what they see,” Garfi eld said. “I didn’t think I would like the show at the tion that fashion is going in lately,” she said. The line also includes jackets and skirts in colors Javits center, but I really did like it much better “I am sick of the tunics and all the jersey, so like gray, brown and black. To stay with the trends, the than the piers,” she said. “It was a lot easier to see it was nice to see that for holiday and resort company is offering a pair of city shorts as well as a everything in one room than it was to go from pier there are some new things, like girly, fl owy skinny-leg style. There’s also the side-zip ankle pants to pier. It made it easier to get around the show.” vintage-inspired kinds of things.” and hidden-elastic pants. The Panticular line whole- Wecksler said she found some new items from Vendors said traffi c was good and they were sales from $68 to $160. Environmentally Friendly Fashion Sprouts at D&A By Marc Karimzadeh Wilster is about “woven shapes in knits,” said Wilsterman, referring to the Lycra A Charlotte dresses and tops in black, aubergine and peach. “We wanted to create something NEW YORK — From organic stores popping up across Ronson that’s easy to pack and easy to put on,” Levitas added. Wholesale prices range from the country to Al Gore’s much-talked-about documenta- dress. $50 to $105, and Levitas said fi rst-year wholesale volume projections are $3 million. ry, “An Inconvenient Truth,” the current buzz about the Also new was shoe line Toms, which aims to combine fashion with a social con- environment is gradually making its way to fashion. science. Founder and designer Blake Mycoskie, based in Venice, Calif., last January At the Designers & Agents Annex show, which ended traveled to Argentina, where he came across an organization that arranged a shoe its three-day run at the Starrett-Lehigh Building here drive for impoverished children. He was inspired to start the line when he found on Monday, several vendors offered recycled or envi- the country’s Alpargata canvas sandal. Mycoskie ronmentally sustainable pieces, prompting even the updated the shoe with funky designs such as a show organizers to take notice. A top-selling preppy stripe of a graffi ti pattern, for $17 wholesale “I have so many conversations about recycling green, look from per pair. For each pair sold, the designer will do- renewable and sustainable products,” said Barbara Mon Petit nate a pair for children in Argentina. Since the May Kramer, who cofounded D&A with Ed Mandelbaum. Oiseau. launch, Mycoskie has sold 10,000 pairs. The design- “At D&A, we will be making more of an effort where er projected wholesale volume between $10 million we can be more conscious and energy effi cient.” She and $20 million in three years. “The customer likes declined to disclose further details. that they are also buying a pair for a child,” he said. This holiday/resort edition of the show featured 68 “They feel like they can make a difference.” collections, up 17 percent from last year. It attracted Swimwear designer Elissa Dunlop offered a col- 1,200 visitors, up 15 percent. lection of bikinis at $90 wholesale made from vintage Marlene Burton, president of the Sweet William polyester fabrics she sources in thrift stores and rag boutique in Hinsdale, Ill., came to the show to see houses. “There were a lot of new stores and no one lines such as Jarbo. “We have had a great reaction to seemed concerned about prices,” said Dunlop, who our early fall deliveries, and because the weather is so is based in New York. hot, people are still buying summer,” she said. “We are Designer Charlotte Ronson wasn’t just an ex- already getting a strong reaction to leggings, boots and hibitor at the show — she also shopped it for her wedge shoes. Also, dressier things are coming back a boutique on Mulberry Street here, picking up little bit for the fi rst time after Sept. 11.” Dunlop’s swimwear for resort. “We picked up lot of Stacy Poritzky, co-owner of the Stash boutique in new stores,” Ronson noted. “For us, people loved Newton Centre, Mass., was searching for large cinched prints, which are still bohemian and ethnic and belts and a more polished look overall. Poritzky picked up the And Cake line of denim-friendly. The shorts are getting a bit longer, cashmere cardigans with buttons and skulls, which continue to be a trend through and everything is getting a bit baggier.” Among her top-selling prints was a tribal batik resort and holiday. “Everything is still about skulls,” she said. “I thought it had in a V-neck smocked dress for $154 wholesale and a long halter dress for $128. Other peaked, but it really hasn’t.” favorites included a belted, embroidered safari dress for $104 and a romper for $85. Designers Mimi Levitas and Sarah Wilsterman launched the Wilster label at At Mon Petit Oiseau, based in Los Angeles, top sellers included a vintage print D&A. Levitas, through the Focus Design Group, had been making sweaters for the silk sweatshirt for $70 wholesale, a wool double knit V-neck top for $60 and a likes of Joie, Seven For All Mankind, Tocca and Three Dots; Wilsterman most re- brushed wool sweater for $65. “At this show, the buyers seem to know exactly what cently was the senior women’s designer at Marciano. they want, and the buy seems quicker,” said designer Tracy Wilkinson. 10 WWD, THURSDAY, AUGUST 10, 2006 WWD.COM Guess Goes for Gold With New Scent Adidas Net Leaps 13% NEW YORK — Guess will launch the third leg of wholesale and retail sales volume of Guess Gold its fragrance business next week when it introduc- combined could reach $30 million. By Ellen Groves es Guess Gold, a fl anker to its original feminine Guess Gold will be introduced at 1,968 doors by scent, last fall’s Guess for Women. mid-August. The scent’s distribution network will PARIS — Boosted by the World Cup soccer championship, German The second scent in the Guess portfolio, Guess include Guess’ 320 company-owned stores in the activewear firm Adidas on Wednesday reported a 13 percent rise Man, was introduced last spring. U.S. and Canada, Federated Department Stores in second-quarter profits, to 173 million euros, or $217.4 million. Guess Gold, described as a locations, Belk, Proffi tts, Bon Ton Sales spiked 60 percent, to 2.43 billion euros, or $3.05 billion, fl oral Oriental, was inspired by and Boscov’s. driven by the Reebok acquisition completed in January. Organic the rays of the setting sun refl ect- The Guess Gold collection sales for Adidas grew 20 percent, to 1.81 billion euros, or $2.28 ing off the Pacifi c Ocean, said BEAUTY BEAT will include eaux de parfum in billion, in the second quarter ending June 30. (Currency conver- Paul Marciano, co-chairman and 1.7-oz. and 2.5-oz. versions, for sions were made at average exchange rates for the period.) co-chief executive offi cer of Guess Inc. Guess for $45 and $55, respectively. Ancillary products, a 5- For the fi rst six months, Adidas increased profi ts by 18 per- Women, in contrast, is a fruity fl oral. oz. shimmering body lotion ($28) and a 3.4-oz. body cent, to 420 million euros, or $527.7 million, on a sales increase Blended by Takasago perfumer Claudette wash ($22), will accompany Guess Gold at launch. of 53 percent, to 4.89 billion euros, or $6.14 billion. Excluding Belnavis, Guess Gold features top notes of citrus, The scent’s G-shape, gold bottle was designed by Reebok, Adidas’ sales in the half rose 19 percent, to 3.31 billion golden apple and pineapple; a Henry de Monclin of Ateliers Dinand. euros, or $4.16 billion. heart of hyacinth, jasmine, water A promotional effort for Guess Gold will include During the same period, Reebok’s sales fell 9 percent, to 1.05 lily and rose, and base notes of co-operative advertising with retailers as well as billion euros, or $1.32 billion, because of order backlogs. Adidas sandalwood, amber and vetiver. print ads and scented pieces in late summer issues said in a statement this was “expected.” At the TaylorMade- “Gold is a valuable and pre- of W, Allure, Teen Vogue, In Style and Elle. One Adidas Golf division, revenues rose 28 percent, to 484 million cious material with a warmth million sample vials, a gift-with-purchase program euros, or $608.1 million. and character unique to the el- and special events will support the scent. The cost “The Adidas group had an outstanding fi rst half crowned by ement,” Marciano said. “Guess of the advertising and promotional campaign could our strong showing at the World Cup,” Herbert Hainer, Adidas Gold fragrance is the ultimate reach $10 million, according to sources. AG chairman and chief executive offi cer, said in the statement. accessory, something to be worn — Matthew W. Evans “Adidas and TaylorMade-Adidas Golf ’s top-line performance close to the skin and cherished was impressive, and Reebok delivered sequential improvement — just like gold jewelry.” in line with our expectations.” He described the Guess For the full year, Adidas forecast a sales increase of about Gold target demographic as Project Rover’s Sexy Beast 40 percent, including Reebok’s revenues, and between 10 and “chic, polished, mature and NEW YORK — Six years ago there was Oh My 12 percent growth, excluding Reebok’s business. The company extremely sexy” women age 18 Dog, a fragrance designed to be used both by ca- said net income was “expected to grow at double-digit rates.” and up. nine owners and their furry friends. Now there Hainer added in the statement, “We have a pipeline full of “It is a more exotic, richer is Sexy Beast, an eau de parfum exclusively for operational initiatives for the remainder of the year….We are scent [than Guess for Women],” pampered pooches from New York-based Project confi dent that we will achieve our ambitious full-year targets.” said Kathleen Galvin, vice pres- Rover LLC. Adidas’ stock closed up 2.77 percent at 36.67 euros, or $47.06,

ident of marketing for Parlux GEORGE CHINSEE PHOTO BY The scent, which is to launch Tuesday at sexy- on the Frankfort Stock Exchange on Wednesday. Fragrances Inc., which holds the The Guess Gold beaststyle.com, will come in two versions, a 3.4-oz. Guess fragrance license. “The fragrance. size for $65 and a 1.7-oz. bottle for $50. Blended fi rst [women’s scent] was lighter; by Givaudan, the fragrance contains notes of ber- this one makes a statement. We’re expecting a nice gamot, vanilla-infused musk, patchouli, manda- spike in the [Guess] fragrance business.” rin and nutmeg. Ancillary Sexy Beast products, Maidenform Sales Up in Qtr. Neither executive would comment on sales priced from $26 to $28, will include conditioning expectations, but industry sources project that and shine sprays, as well as lightening powder. By Jeanine Poggi NEW YORK — Maidenform Brands Inc. reported a 14.5 percent gain in second-quarter sales to $117.1 million, citing a solid performance in the core intimate business and new product initiatives. The company introduced push-up and strapless products in the Dream Collection, expanded the One Fabulous Fit line with Invisible Options and launched Flexees One Fabulous Body and zippered waist-nippers. For the three months ended July 1, Maidenform posted a net income of $9.4 million, or 39 cents a diluted share, compared with $2.6 million, or a loss of 58 cents a diluted share, in the same period last year. Wholesale net sales jumped 17.3 percent to $102.6 million and total international sales increased 27.5 percent. Same-store sales for Maidenform’s outlet stores climbed 2.6 percent and Internet sales rose 14.3 percent. The company said sales to department stores and national chain stores rose $5.7 million to $59.6 million, and sales in the mass channel grew $8.3 million to $31 million. Other sales, which include sales to specialty and off-price retailers as well as licensing income, increased $1.1 million to $12 million. Citing expansion opportunities, the company revised its out- look for the rest of 2006, projecting net sales gains in the 6 to 8 percent range and gross margins of about 37.5 percent. The previous outlook for net sales was 5 to 7 percent, with gross margins estimated at 37 percent. “We are optimistic about the company’s business opportu- nities and we continue to remain sensitive to the rather chal- lenging macroeconomic environment out there,” Dorvin Lively, Maidenform’s chief fi nancial offi cer, said on a conference call to Wall Street. “We originally planned our business cautiously for the year, particularly due to the challenges that occurred during the fourth quarter of 2005. We don’t expect to see those issues at any signifi cant level again during the later part of this year.” Andrew Marc Appoints CFO NEW YORK — Robert M. Mahan has been named chief fi nancial offi cer of Andrew Marc, a new post. His role will be to lead the company’s fi nance and opera- tions staff as the company increases its core outerwear business and expands its product categories, with the aim of becoming a global lifestyle brand. He reports to Charles M. Jayson, chief executive offi cer. Most recently, Mahan served as chief fi nancial offi cer of Ajilon Professional Staffi ng. Before that he was group fi nancial director for Liz Claiborne’s special markets and accessories di- visions. Earlier, he spent nine years at Tommy Hilfi ger, where he last held the post of senior vice president, fi nance and op- erations, for various divisions. WWD, THURSDAY, AUGUST 10, 2006 11 WWD.COM Federated Sees Strong Second Half Continued from page one Sales were just under $6 billion, compared with $3.6 billion in the second quarter of On Sept. 9, 400 May 2005. doors will switch to Comps rose 4.6 percent, though that was on the low side of the 4 to 6 percent fore- the Macy’s nameplate. cast. The IRS refund reduced income tax expense by $80 million and interest expense by $17 million, contributing 16 cents to second-quarter earnings per diluted share, which were 51 cents, compared with 42 cents in the same quarter of 2005. Last year, Federated acquired May Department Stores for $17 billion (including debt), nearly doubling its annual sales volume to more than $27 billion and depart- ment store count to more than 850 units, including Macy’s, Bloomingdale’s and the May doors acquired. Excluding merger integration costs and related inventory valuation adjustments of $177 million ($111 million after tax, or 19 cents a diluted share) and the sale of credit receivables of $191 million ($119 million after tax, or 21 cents per diluted share), second-quarter diluted EPS from continuing operations were 49 cents, exceeding the company’s guidance of 39 to 44 cents. “We were pleased to have exceeded our earnings guidance this quarter, indicating that the Federated-May Co. integration process remains solidly on track,” Federated’s chairman, chief executive offi cer and president, Terry Lundgren, said in a statement Wednesday. “In particular, we are pleased with the comp-store sales progress in ex- isting Macy’s and Bloomingdale’s locations, which refl ect our strategy beyond the na- tionwide Macy’s brand launch beginning Sept. 9. “We are still in the process of transitioning the former May Co. locations with sig- nifi cant merchandise assortment change-outs, clearance sales of discontinued inven- tory and remodeling activity, which is disruptive to the business, and our sales perfor- mance in these stores continues to lag,” added Lundgren. “We are looking forward to getting this work behind us and returning to a more normalized pace of activity after the nameplate changes in September.” pleased with our performance,” said Hoguet. “We needed fewer markdowns to get Federated could run into consumer resistance from those who might feel loyal to the May doors to our [merchandise] aging standards. We are pleased with the margin such former May nameplates as Filene’s in Boston, Foley’s in Houston and, most nota- results as we transition the May assortments.” bly, Marshall Field’s in Chicago. With Field’s, Federated is making an extra effort with Across Federated, the best-performing categories during the second quarter were new shops, fl oor redos and intensifi ed special events. Federated’s chief fi nancial offi cer dresses, cosmetics, juniors, young men’s and luggage, while home was the weakest, and executive vice president, Karen Hoguet, said she thinks Chicagoans will be pleased particularly furniture. with the changes, but that there will be a better read on the situation in September. Refl ecting confi dence in the merger, Federated raised guidance for the second half. “There is so much activity and excitement around Macy’s as we relaunch the Earnings are expected to be 15 to 20 cents for the third quarter and $1.40 to $1.50 for the brand,” Hoguet said during a conference call Wednesday. “Banners are covering the fourth quarter, compared with previous guidance of $1.50 to $1.62 a share in the two pe- new signs with the old names, we are de-cluttering the sales fl oors and widening the riods combined. For 2006, Federated expects diluted earnings of $2 to $2.15 a share ex- aisles. Everything should be in place by the offi cial launch date.” cluding merger integration costs, related inventory valuation adjustments and gains on She also cited national advertising, local events and special store promotions to the sale of credit receivables. Same-store sales are expected to increase 3 to 5 percent in drive traffi c, but gave no specifi cs on the launch plans. the third and fourth quarters, compared with previous guidance of 2 to 4 percent. The majority of May doors are not completely converted and are receiving new In other changes, Federated expects to close on its sale of Lord & Taylor for assortments through most of August. Private label is included, but that element of $1.2 billion to the NRDC Equity Partners in the third quarter and also announce at the transition will be ongoing. “We will continue to be increasing the private brand that time a deal to sell its bridal group, which includes David’s Bridal, After Hours percentage in May doors over the next couple of years,” Hoguet said. Formalwear and Priscilla of Boston . Other aspects of the merger are also apparently going well. Hoguet said of the 80 Standard & Poor’s upgraded Federated based on “favorable customer response to department stores to be divested, deals have closed on 60, three others have been private label offerings” that led to growth in higher-margin sales and merger-relat- reached and 17 more are being sought. Also, systems conversions are on schedule, ed cost savings. “With signifi cant assortment change-outs being made at former May marketing plans for the nationwide Macy’s launch on Sept. 9 have been fi nalized and stores ahead of the national Macy’s launch, we see opportunity for further improve- “reads on new merchandise in May doors are all positive,” Hoguet said. ment in sales and gross margins.” S&P lifted its fi scal 2007 operating EPS estimate 25 Though sales have dragged at some May doors, “given all the changes, we are very cents to $2.15, and its 12-month target stock price by $1 to $41. James Perse to Separate the Sexes Fashion Scoops By Sharon Edelson RAMBERT TAPS ROLAND: Roland Mouret has been keeping busy on several NEW YORK — When James Perse fronts this year and the fall will be no exception when he collaborates with the opened his eponymous boutique Rambert Dance Company, designing the costumes for two works by emerging at 411 Bleecker Street here last choreographers. The fi rst is “Transit,” by Melanie Teall, a female solo that will year, he had trouble squeezing his premiere in High Wycombe on Oct. 11. The second is “Verge” by Cameron men’s and women’s collections into McMillan, an ensemble piece for eight dancers that makes its debut at Sadler’s the roughly 800-square-foot space. Wells on Nov. 14. Mouret said the project is a fulfi llment of a long-standing Come late November, the sexes ambition to work with dancers. “For me, everything starts from the movement of will no longer cohabitate. fabric over the body. Dance is the greatest expression of this movement,” he said. Perse is planning to open his The Rambert, founded by Marie Rambert, celebrates its 80th anniversary this fi rst store devoted to men’s wear year and is well known for collaborating with a variety of artists, musicians and at 361 Bleecker Street. Removing designers. men’s from the original store’s equation will free up space to de- ATTENTION SHOPPERS: The Accessories Council hosted a cocktail party Tuesday velop new categories for women. night for its fi rst shopping event, “Accessoirée: A Cause for Adornment” in “The women’s product line in collaboration with In Style magazine at The Westside Loft in New York. Everyone that store is very edited compared from MTV’s SuChin Pak and Jessica Capshaw to industry types such as Echo’s Lynn with the larger shops,” Perse said. The James Perse boutique at 411 Bleecker Street. Roberts and Solstice’s Ed Jankowski perused the goods from Fragments, Cole Haan “This move allows us to expand the women’s product offerings.” and others. “The prices are just too good not to shop,” exclaimed Jankowski. Perse designed an extensive sweater and knit collection for fall, which will be featured in Also at the event was Leiber creative director Frank Zambrelli, who showed off a shop-within-a-shop at 411 Bleecker Street, which does sales of $2,800 per square foot, ac- the Accessories Council Excellence award trophy, of his own design: a miniature cording to the designer. A line of handbags and shoes is in the works. crystal Leiber-looking clutch. Perse, who is known for his T-shirts in supersoft fabrics and body-slimming fi ts, is mov- ing away from the wardrobe staple. ROYAL MINI-ME: “I see myself as a mini Mummy,” Princess Beatrice told British “The dress category has been explosive,” he said. “Shirts and blouses have been tremen- viewers in a television interview released on her 18th birthday Tuesday. “She’s dous for us. Khaki, twill and canvas pants have started to take off. I spent 10 years of my career the best advice-giver I could possibly ever wish for. She leads by example, really, building a very focused product category. The T-shirt piece of our business is shrinking.” and her behavior is one that I would like to follow,” said the princess, who talked Men’s wear is by no means contracting. It will account for 45 percent of the company’s es- to TV reporters a few weeks ago in between visits to teenage cancer patients at timated $50 million in sales for 2006, said Perse, who plans to open more men’s-only units. “I a London hospital. The princess, the eldest child of Sarah, Duchess of York, and think a men’s store has always been missing from the market,” he said. “Of course, you have Prince Andrew, Duke of York, was dressed just like her mother (who sat next to the better department and specialty stores. As far as boutiques, there aren’t a lot of neighbor- her during the brief interview) in a navy blue jacket and white shirt. Although the hood shops for men.” duchess hasn’t always been a paragon of virtue — remember the famous poolside The 800-square-foot men’s store will have a masculine color palette and architecture. “tongue-sucking” photos in the British tabloids with American John Bryan in Service will have more in common with fi ne hotels than other apparel chains, Perse said. the early Nineties? — she’s now considered a dedicated charity worker and is a In addition to the new Bleecker Street unit, Perse is opening a concept store in longtime patron of the Teenage Cancer Trust. The princess also spoke of wanting Brentwood, Calif., devoted to travel. A third store is in the works, but Perse declined to to continue doing cancer charity work, in addition to taking on other patronages. disclose the location. “Being the person I am, not only because of my family, but also because of the Christopher Owles, managing director of Sinvin Realty, represented Perse. The land- amazing guidance I have had from my mum, I can help so many people, so that’s lord’s broker was Sinvin managing director Michelle Stone. exciting,” she said. 12 WWD, THURSDAY, AUGUST 10, 2006 WWD.COM

For a go-go nation, air malls are gaining momentum. Pittsburgh International Airport jump-started the trend by designing its space around stores, not planes. TheWWDList And New York’s John F. Kennedy International — second on the list when ranked by enplanements (or departing passengers) — upped the ante by adding Bulgari and Cartier. “After 9/11, airlines began focusing on revenue from nonairline sources to offset airline costs,” explained Pauline Armbrust, chief executive offi cer of trade magazine Armbrust Aviation. Not that airport retailing is hassle-free. High-Flying Airports For example, “product must be sniffed out by dogs looking for bomb residue,” said Armbrust. Also, “street pricing is enforced,” pushing down profi ts. But why Top-performing North American airports ranked by 2005 sales aren’t major hub airports such as O’Hare or Atlanta on the list? “Transferring per enplanement. passengers don’t spend a lot of money,” Armbrust explained. — Constance Gustke

PITTSBURGH INTERNATIONAL Sales per enplanement: $12.27* Designed in an X confi guration, Pittsburgh’s airport is a high-gloss venue fashionistas can love. The roster of stores reads like a tony mall, including Clinique, Brooks Brothers and Godiva Chocolatier. Gap Women opened its fi rst, and only, airport clothes shop here, and there are two 1 full-service XpresSpas in the terminals. A chapel, post offi ce and kids’ sports space are nearby. Dubbed the Airmall, the airport opened in 1992 and was designed by British company BAA — operator of retail-packed U.K. airports such as Heathrow and Gatwick — so that “shoppers must pass by stores before they get to their gates,” said Armbrust. Some refer to the new, hybrid airport as a “mall with planes outside.”

JOHN F. KENNEDY INTERNATIONAL, NEW YORK SPE: $9.62 Like a walk down upper Fifth Avenue, JFK has loads of eye candy. Terminal One sports high-end shops such as Clinique, Coach, Hermès and Ferragamo alongside upscale eateries such as The Napa Valley Wine Bar. Terminal 4, which opened in 2001, kicked off its store openings with 2 a fashion show called “Come Fly With Me.” Shops include Runway Retail, DKNY and Fossil. Each terminal in JFK, which hosts more than 41 million air travelers a year, is distinct and run differently. “But Terminal 4 is privatized, and it has among the highest sales at JFK,” said Armbrust.

SAN FRANCISCO INTERNATIONAL SPE: $9.16 The airport, once the subject of a short-lived 1970 TV series, is nearly a minicity after a $1 billion renovation in 2000. It now has a walk-in medical clinic, public showers, an aviation museum with more than 6,000 books and 20 rotating art exhibits that show everything from tiki culture pieces to 3 Wurlitzer jukeboxes. The more than 100 stores include Coach, Sephora, Brookstone and the only airport golf store with an on-site simulator.

NEWARK LIBERTY INTERNATIONAL, NEWARK, N.J. SPE: $9.05 Amelia Earhart christened the Art Deco administration building here in 1935. Now the expanded airport has a wide range of retailers such as DKNY, Kenneth Cole, L’Occitane, Hat World and the Metropolitan Museum of Art store. Some 33 million passengers traveled through Newark 4 airport last year, making it a high-traffi c locale. The glossy D-parture Spa, created by fashion designer Gina Stern and her husband, has oxygen therapy, facials and chair massages.

CALGARY INTERNATIONAL, ALBERTA, CANADA SPE: $8.98 More Space Age than ever, Calgary’s airport got a 10-year, $728 million makeover and a new arc-and-spoke design. Retail options include Calgary Harley-Davidson and Riley & McCormick Western Stores for plaid shirts. The world’s fi rst oxygen spa, called O2raOxygen, courts weary travelers 5 with facials and aroma-oxygen sessions, created by a former fl ight attendant as an antidote for stale airplane air, though the concept has yet to catch on. Then there’s the interactive display, SpacePort, which has a moon rock, jet-plane simulators and a NASA space shuttle prototype.

HONOLULU INTERNATIONAL SPE: $8.81 Fun-loving people on vacation spend plenty here. There are no big-name apparel shops; instead, goods range from leis to sunglasses to Aloha Keiki Magic gifts and Maui Divers jewelry. Hawaii’s governor, Linda Lingle, recently unveiled a $2.3 billion modernization program for the airport over a 6 12-year period. Though less commanding than airports such as Calgary, Honolulu has its draws, including an aerospace museum where visitors can

create a computer-assembled airplane and see if it can fl y. S

PORTLAND INTERNATIONAL, PORTLAND, ORE. SPE: $8.65 Need a haircut? Head to the Relax Station in the airport. You also can get a shoe shine, manicure or massage there. The Relax Station is in the Oregon Market, a simulated downtown shopping mall with a clock tower and gas lamps where travelers can shop at Nike or the Pendleton Shop. 7 Offbeat amenities for killing time include the fi rst airport DVD rental store, called In Motion Pictures. There are also exhibits such as terrazzo- and-bronze inlaid fl oor maps of the Pacifi c Northwest and Native American baskets and beadwork.

TED STEVENS ANCHORAGE INTERNATIONAL SPE: $8.54 Quirky stores such as Moosellaneous, Bush Pilot’s barber shop and Mosquito Books abound here. Call it survival gear. But with so many passengers on their way to trans-Pacifi c locales such as Hawaii and points east, Anchorage International is a key crossroads. Crack snow removal 8 keeps the airport moving, despite more than 60 inches of snow a year dumped on the city. The airport is adding 440,000 square feet of additional overall space.

MCCARRAN INTERNATIONAL, LAS VEGAS SPE: $8.26 Located on Wayne Newton Boulevard, this airport is defi nitely viva Las Vegas. The slot machines alone bring in tens of millions of dollars in revenues annually. But there are also plentiful casino gift stores, from the Bellagio to Circus Circus to the Mirage for those Siegfried & Roy 9 trinkets. Stores include Bijoux Terner, Fossil and Marshall Rousso apparel. Like Honolulu’s hub, McCarran International prospers from the free- spending leisure crowd, said Armbrust. The fi tness center, the fi rst in the country in an airport, is open 24/7; so is the fl ower store.

RONALD REAGAN NATIONAL, WASHINGTON, D.C. SPE: $8.06 With its soaring vaulted ceilings and gleaming glass expanses, the capital’s airport has aesthetics going for it. Noted Argentine architect Cesar Pelli designed Terminal B/C, and high design goes hand in hand with more than 100 stores, some upscale, such as Brooks Brothers and a 10 Smithsonian unit. Last year, the airport was used by 17.8 million passengers. There is even a 34-space parking area for people with cell phones who are picking up arriving passengers. SAN FRANCISCO PHOTO BY CORBIS; PORTLAND BY AP PHOTO/DON RYAN; LAS VEGAS BY BARRY SWEET/LANDOV; WASHINGTON BY JAMES LEYNSE/CORBI BY WASHINGTON BARRY SWEET/LANDOV; LAS VEGAS BY AP PHOTO/DON RYAN; BY CORBIS; PORTLAND PHOTO BY SAN FRANCISCO SOURCES: ARMBRUST AVIATION, A TRADE MAGAZINE DEVOTED TO COVERAGE OF THE AIRPORT REVENUE WORLD. *FIGURES COVER THREE CATEGORIES: FOOD AND BEVERAGE, SPECIALTY SALES AND NEWS AND GIFTS. WWD, THURSDAY, AUGUST 10, 2006 13 WWD.COM Fans to Get Their Cher at October Auction By Rosemary Feitelberg As for connecting with Mackie, Cher said Carol Burnett often mentioned him on the set of “The Carol Bette Midler NEW YORK — Cher, who will part with hundreds of per- Burnett Show.” He helped Burnett bring down the house with Cher sonal belongings at auction this fall, said she isn’t ex- by creating her hilarious curtain dress for a “Gone With in 1975 on actly bidding farewell to her persona. the Wind” sketch. Mackie would later create many other “The Cher “My old self is not going anywhere, it never is,” she lasting impressions with Cher on her own program, “The Show.” said, laughing, during an interview Wednesday. Cher Show,” as well as on the comedy hour she hosted On the road not long ago, the entertainer decided it with her late ex-husband, Sonny Bono. was time to do something completely different. Once “I remember saying to Sonny, ‘If I ever have enough back in her Malibu home, she decided to decorate money, Bob is going to design my clothes,’” she said. her Sierra Towers apartment “When we fi rst started the show, in West Hollywood. She went we only had enough money to with shades of Swedish blond have him do my clothes, and from top to bottom, save for a nothing beaded. We could only few dashes of different colored afford beaded when the show woods and pale gold accents. was picked up. When I got my This was “a complete 180” for fi rst beaded gown, I was crying on a lifelong Gothic lover known to the fl oor. I couldn’t believe it.” rummage through Paris fl ea markets As memorable as that was and and London back alleys for her fi nds. as often as she and Mackie collabo- That got her thinking about paring down rated, their initial encounter is the one her many keepsakes — from furniture and that stays with her. “The thing that stands jewelry to show-stopping costumes. out is the fi rst time I ever saw him. I was doing Now Sotheby’s and Julien’s Auctions will put ‘The Carol Burnett Show’ and I’d been sent for a them on the block Oct. 3 and 4 at the Beverly fi tting. This guy walked in who was so unbeliev- Hilton in Beverly Hills. Bob Mackie’s over-the-top ably beautiful and I thought, ‘This can’t be Bob creations, including some of the dresses he made Mackie. He’s my age.’ I was 20 and he was this for her to wear on “The Sonny and Cher Comedy beautiful Adonis. He’d been in Greece, so he was Hour,” will be among the main attractions. There brown and blonde.” also will be more than 700 lots of paintings, fur- For decades, the Academy Award, Grammy, niture and decorative works of art. The sale is Emmy and Golden Globe winner has delighted expected to generate more than $1 million, with fans with her extravagant and often risqué en- OF SOTHEBY’S PHOTOS COURTESY some proceeds benefi ting the Cher Charitable sembles, but she insisted her offstage style is and and I just write it down.” Foundation. always has been considerably more low-key. “I’m Cher said she has considered creating a signature However, she is being selective. The barely still in jeans and sweatpants. I’m a bum when it collection “millions of times” and that continues to there outfi t Cher wore for her 1980 hit “If I Could comes to walking around town. My grandmother, be “something I would entertain. I’ve always thought Turn Back Time” is a keeper, but a copy of that who is still alive, wears jeans, my mother wears it would be so much fun. I design my own jewelry, all costume made for a 1989 performance will go Bob Mackie’s jeans, my kids wear jeans — we all wear jeans.” my houses, clothes and I’ll go to the shoemaker and under the gavel. One of her “Laverne” costumes bird design Cher declined to talk about her next big pick things out….All the young girls are doing it, but from the comedy hour is being stashed and anoth- gown for Cher. project. She would talk about a new album and the older girls deserve to have something. That’s the er will be auctioned. Asked which items will be plans to direct the movie she has always wanted problem. I’m 60 years old, and there’s no way I want to the toughest to part with, she said: “It’s probably not the to make — “a love story that is really about how no mat- do old-lady styles. There are a lot of women my age who most expensive things. There’s a Jesus painting I bought ter what people look like, they can be beautiful to each still want to look cute, and have good bodies.” in the back alley of a fl ea market in Paris. It was from a other.” Titles, at least for the time being, are incidental. But the star isn’t fretting over whether a design ca- girls’ school. I’ve always loved it, and I still don’t know if “It’s written on a piece of paper somewhere,’’ she said. reer will happen. “I believe what belongs to you comes I’ll be able to give it up.” “I have scraps of paper all over my house. I get an idea to you, so if this belongs to me, it will come to me.” Playboy’s ‘Midsummer’s Night’ Madness By Karyn Monget Hefner described the lingerie party ambience Hugh Hefner as “truly romantic, with lots of greenery and lots of NEW YORK — What is Playboy icon Hugh Hefner’s sandwiched Roman and Greek statues. There are painted ladies favorite party? Not surprisingly, the annual between Nicky serving Jell-O shooters, girls who are wearing body “Midsummer’s Night Dream”-inspired lingerie soiree and Paris Hilton paint that look like they are dressed but are actually at the Playboy Mansion. at last week’s naked. Playboy [magazine] fi rst came up with the con- “It’s lingerie, pajamas — and less,” Hefner said lingerie party. cept in the Sixties, and other magazines like Sports in a phone interview following the exclusive bash last Illustrated did it many years later.” Saturday, where the 80-year-old founder of Playboy Asked how he’s kept the image of a Playboy swing- Enterprises donned the signature silk pajamas he er viable since he founded Playboy magazine in 1953, likes to wear while lounging, dining or working on Hefner replied, “My life and the Playboy Mansion and magazine, TV and branding concepts as he listens to brand have become hot again in the past 10 years. jazz by Louis Armstrong. There was a time when I was married, off the scene “I wear pajamas just about all of the time. On this for eight and a half years, and I was faithful. But I got occasion, my friends get to dress like myself in pa- off it beaten and bruised. Beginning in 1998, the par- jamas, which are very comfortable. I’m wearing my ties started again, and I realized young people were favorite black silk pajamas as we speak,” said Hefner, waiting for me to come out and play.” who quickly noted that while the party invitation read He claims a “fascination with retro” has lent suc- “Sleepwear Required,” female guests were encour- cess to the release of a new DVD entitled “Playboy aged to wear “romantic, sexy lingerie.” After Dark,” a replay of a show Hefner did in the The idea of throwing a lingerie party — and build- Sixties. Another new DVD is a recap of the fi rst sea- ing his $998 million multimedia, apparel and acces- son of “The Girls Next Door,” a reality show on the E sories empire — is the product of Puritan repression, quipped Hefner, repeating an observation network that dwells on Hefner’s hedonistic lifestyle at the Playboy Mansion with his three live-in he’s made often in the past. girlfriends — Holly Madison, Bridget Marquardt and Kendra Wilkinson. “I think, quite frankly, the notion of the party has always been my response to growing up in But despite the consumer interest in kitschy memorabilia, the parent reported a net loss of a Lutheran home in Middle America. It was a home where there wasn’t a lot of loving and kiss- $3.3 million in the second quarter ended June 30. Income for the Entertainment Group de- ing,” he said. “I’m an 11th-generation descendent of William Bradford who came over on the clined to $4.9 million in 2006 from $9.8 million last year, while the Publishing Group posted Mayfl ower. The Puritans came here to escape religious persecution in England, and promptly a 7 percent decline in revenues to $23.8 million. The $600 million Licensing Group appears to began persecuting others through Puritanical repression.” be the current star, with a 4 percent increase to $4.1 million compared with the 2005 quarter. As for the lingerie party, it’s been held in Beverly Hills since 1976, in a sprawling backyard Higher international and domestic revenues were responsible for the licensing division’s 8 per- and swimming pool area discreetly tented for privacy. Hefner switched coasts to “Hollywood cent increase in revenues to $9.2 million. party central” from the Playboy Gold Coast Mansion in Chicago in 1971. Since then, the The company is planning an aggressive domestic and international launch of lingerie bearing Tinseltown guest list has doubled to 1,000; regulars include George Clooney, Cameron Diaz, the Playboy Intimates white-label for spring 2007. The retro theme is in step with Hefner’s vi- Leonardo DiCaprio, Jack Nicholson, Justin Timberlake, Warren Beatty and ex-Playboy cover girl sion, featuring vintage-inspired odes to the magazine’s blatantly sexy cover girls and centerfolds and centerfold Pamela Anderson. of the late Sixties and Seventies, including a group called Luscious Babes. “We get a fascinating cross-section of pop culture fi gures, whether its James Caan and Bill Looking back to the creation of Playboy, Hefner said the image of Playboy’s fi rst cover girl, Cosby, or John Dean and Patty Hearst. Patty used to come here very often,” said Hefner. Marilyn Monroe, was featured “by accident.” This year’s partygoers included Matthew Perry, Paris and Nicky Hilton, Bill Maher, Jenna “Tom Kelly had photographed her for a nude calender in 1949, and everybody was talking Jameson, Michael Andretti, Jon Lovitz and David Hasselhoff. Entertainment was provided by about her and how popular she was becoming. But hardly anybody had seen the calender because hip-hop artist Bow Wow. “Music runs the gamut at my parties, a little punk, rock and disco,” the U.S. Post Offi ce had taken the position that no nudity could be sent through the mail. said Hefner. “Three 6 Mafi a performed for my birthday in April, and that was great. They said “So I contacted the Baumgardth Calender Co. in Chicago, used one photo on the cover and the they did it because they always wanted to get into the Playboy Mansion.” rest is history. After that, I acquired the rights to all of the Marilyn Monroe [calender] photos.” HEFNER PHOTO BY ELAYNE LODGE ELAYNE HEFNER PHOTO BY 14 WWD, THURSDAY, AUGUST 10, 2006 NATIONAL MARKETPLACE

FASHION FACULTY Production Coordinator Private College seeks faculty for Leading ladies denim & sportswear Fashion Program. Ph.D Degree preferred, importer seeks exp’d, detail oriented, Master’s degree required, along with organized individual to join our fast significant industry exp. Knowledge of paced production team. Qualified textiles, product development, buying, candidate will have good understanding visual merchandising, merchandise of garment construction, accustomed planning & control. Send resume to: to working with woven fabrics, able to Fashion Search oversee all approvals, expedite orders & tech packs, monitor time and action Berkeley College report & maintain on time deliveries. RETAIL STORE MANAGER 44 Rifle Camp Road, West Paterson, Bilingual Chinese a plus. Friendly New Jersey 07424, Fax: 973-278-0080 working environment and company or Email: [email protected] benefits. Please email resume to: In business for more than 50 years, Madame Paulette is a world renowned, Equal Opportunity Employment innovative leader in a highly specialized niche of the Fashion/Bridal/Home [email protected] Furnishings industries. Strong organizational and managerial skills are nec- Freelance Graphic PRODUCTION Showrooms & Lofts essary to direct all aspects of this flagship Specialty Store. Experience in Artist BWAY 7TH AVE SIDE STREETS Designer Apparel as well as the luxury retail and bridal markets is mandatory. COORDINATOR Great ’New’ Office Space Avail We are currently seeking a freelance Major apparel company seeks indi- ADAMS & CO. 212-679-5500 Other requirements include experience with alterations & tailoring, superior graphic artist for Girls Infant-6x. vidual with strong follow up and communications skills and the ability to simultaneously direct multiple Textile repeat, screens, and emb. organizational skills to set up and Showroom sublet - 36th & 5th background required with excellent maintain record retention data base 2500 Ft Showroom - Fully Built projects while maintaining a high level of attention to detail. Knowledge of Illust. & Photoshop skills for Mac. for the following: fabric testing, Prime Manhattan Jon 212-268-8043 cleaning processes is a plus. Please submit credentials with cover letter Creative & experience with tech accessory testing, and garment testing, Search- www.manhattanoffices.com and salary requirements to Gloria Tamlyn at: packs preferred. inline and final inspection reports, and inspection certificates. Responsibilities Madame Paulette Send resume & salary reqs to: include following up with factories in [email protected] [email protected] collecting samples for garment Fax: (718) 482-7136 / E-mail: testing, sending these samples out for Graphic Designer garment testing, and following up with Dynamic Ladies’ Sportswear Co. seeks a obtaining and entering all testing talented & detail orientated individual reports from testing facilities. In addi- 1407 BROADWAY Merchandising Exec with 1 - 3 years minimum experience. tion, individual will communicate with SHARE SHOWROOM SPACE Fully proficient in Adobe CS. Knowledge factories on collecting top of production Spacious Corner Suite of tech packs & grade rules a definite +. samples. No travel necessary. Must Please Call: 212-202-1632 Currently has two opportunities: New York Please Fax or E--mail all resumes to: have strong computer knowledge of 212-730-1846 / [email protected] DMS, Excel and Outlook. Excellent Associate Accessories Designer Global Apparel Manufacturer, salary and benefits. Please fax resume Will design accessories including candidate will work closely IMPORT LOGISTICS/ to (212)239-2766. handbags for major retail private label. with Product Development TRAFFIC COORD PRODUCTION Knowl. of Illustrator & Photoshop a must. & Merchandising Department, Major Sportswear Importer seeks a Pet Fashion Co. seeks indiv. With 2-3 assit Managers on cotton highly organized and detailed oriented years experience. Follow up with Associate Cut & Sew Designer indiv with outstanding communication Target and Wal-mart accts. Overseas Will design Knit Tops for major retail woven/knit tops and trims development, coordinate all and computer skills to work in a fast travel experience required. Must have private label. Ideal candidate will paced, high energy import dept. 1-2 good communication skills, be detail have a good eye, enjoy competitive sales tools including samples years experience. Full benefits! oriented, organized and highly moti- & bulk delivery. Proficiency Please fax resume to: 212-944-2867 vated. Excel a must. shopping and have a flair for fashion. Fax or email resume & salary req. to: with Excel, bi-lingual English Leading ladies denim jean and sports- 646-486-1336, [email protected] & Chinese a plus. wear importer seeks the following: Both will correspond w/ our HK office *Production---Production* Wanted: JEANS IMPORTERS communicate w/ buyers, present Email or fax res attn: HR Technical Designer Assistants-Coordinators-Managers designs for a contemp. taste level. [email protected] Highly exp tech designer to work in fast Many Jobs-Excellent Salaries Artistic Denim Mill Ltd. paced production dept. Knowledge of Call (212) 643-8090 Fax (212) 643-8127 (AGCY) is interested in buying a At least 2 yrs exp. 212-481-0447 garment construction, pattern making, Please email resumes to flat sketching, grading and conducting Denim Jeans Importing Company having vendor fit sessions a must. Candidate must PROFESSIONAL [email protected] om also have excellent overseas factory ASSISTANT numbers with major retailers such as GAP, or fax to 509-757-7814 communication skills and know how to For Owner/Designer of an established ASSOCIATE BUYER process tech packages. Wal Mart exp a high-end leather handbag company. Sears, JCPenney, WalMart, etc. must. Friendly working environment My line is sold in Nordstroms, Fred [email protected] New upscale and company benefits. Email resume to: Segal and many fine boutiques around Contact via E-mail : Contemporary boutique [email protected] the world. You must have at least 2 Foot Locker, Inc years of expierience as an assistant to Boca Raton, Florida Market Research Analyst a Owner/Designer, have some experi- Designer/Technical Design New York, NY. Sherffer (U.S.A.) Co., ence with a handbag company, and NEED FINANCING? Current contemporary market Ltd. Research market conditions to must know photoshop and illustrator. Responsible for ladies apparel line experience absolute must. determine sales; collect market infor- This job is for a full time position and Are you struggling with development. Garment construc- mation on competitors, prices sales, & you must be available immediately. financing your business? Email: [email protected] methods of marketing & distribution; Please contact Atiyah to schedule an We are an established apparel company tion & measurement specs in Fax: 561-391-3389 recommend to management on marketing appointment. 212-947-0050. that is seeking to acquire or develop WEB PDM from development policies & strategies. 40hr/wk. Prevailing an alliance with another apparel or- stage to pre- production sample wage. BA in business related field. RECEPTIONIST ganization to provide financing, ad- Fax resume: (646) 473-2006 High pace company seeks someone to ministration, shipping & distribution. stage Trend presentation, styling, handle busy phones send fed-ex PTTNS/SMPLS/PROD Designer Please email an outline of your business High qlty, reasonable price. Any de- color & fabric trend development MERCHANDISER packages and UPS, maintain show- including contact person & phone sign & fabric. Fast work. 212-714-2186 Min 5-7 yrs exp., pattern making, Assistant Designer Major apparel company seeks room daily must have excellent number to: grading, WEB PDM, Illustrator Merchandiser for girls 4-16 with solid communication skills Please fax [email protected] Student Okay merchandising knowledge and experi- resume to 212 391-0881 att: Vivian Please send resume to: Women’s Apparel Co seeks P/T Asst ence with mass markets such as [email protected] Designer; no exp necessary. Assist w/ Wal-Mart. Responsibilities include presentation boards / Excel tech paks. identifying trends, building and Store Design Manager Great atmosphere; position is immedi- maintaining relationships with buyers ate. Fax resume: HR Mgr 212-354-3051 Outstanding Opportunity! Administrative Asst and providing direction to design Manager needed for both new con- team. Must maintain schedules and struction and renovation. The ideal Experienced professional w/ 2+ years be able to work in fast paced environ- ALLSTAR TRUCKING & WHSE exp. to work in fast paced office at an candidate will have 4+ yrs experience ment. Excellent salary and benefits. in architecture for multi-unit retail 718-945-3500 Import Textile Co. Strong computer Please fax resume to (212)202-7897. Garment Center Specialist. Dist to skills with excellent written & oral Designer & rollouts. Competitive salary. consol- Import p/u port Newark. JFK communication. Write/track orders for Please send resume to: a/p -US Customs Bonded Whse customers to overseas suppliers and Associate Designer Patternmaker [email protected] communicate daily with both. The Huge growth opportunity. est. Freelance couture level patternmaker right multi-tasker will be detail- multidivisional dress manufacturer for small couture house. Steady work. ARE YOU DOING YOUR oriented and able to take initiative in looking for designer & associate E-mail resume, attn: Sloan problem solving, follow-up and alter- designer who specializes in evening & [email protected] prom dresses, daytime, junior & private STORE MANAGER OWN SHIPPING? native resolution. High-end luxury brand seeks detail Email: [email protected] label developments. Must have min. 6 Patternmaker / Techdesign Here’s a great way to years experience and be familiarize oriented & highly motivated Store Established dress/ suit/ evening women’s Manager for year round position at its streamline costs! with oversees developments. Excellent wear company is looking for a mininimum We are a garment Manufacturer seek- Asst Designer Childrenswear organizational skills a must. Aspen boutique. Luxury retail 2 Yrs experience. required. Must have 7 years experienced Pattermaker with experience required. Competitive ing to share shipping costs. We have a Fax Resume to HR: (212) 898-1211 strong knowledge of private label state of the art Garment Distribution strong computer skills on a Mac using salary, commission & benefits. Illustrator and Photoshop. Fax resume to: and computers. Fax or e-mail resume to: 646-304-5674 Facility located in Secaucus NJ. Clean, Fax Resume to HR: 212- 898-1211 organized, computerized and seeking 212 564 9507 Attn: EFK or [email protected] other garment companies to share PATTERNMAKER ...... TO 80K shipping costs with us. We ship and BUYER/WOMEN’S Gerber exp Daywear /sleepwear receive domestic & foreign products. DESIGNER Jennifer Glenn SRI Search 212-465-8300 DESIGNER RTW Better prvt label co seeks a sportswear [email protected] TD’s (4) To $80K To discuss this opportunity, please Luxury Italian fashion brand needs a send contact information to: designer. Ability to sketch,spec, create www.srisearch.com Womens-Kids-Collection-Stretch Knits seasoned Buyer for their womens presentation boards, & communicate [email protected] [email protected] or contemporary collection. Must have at PROD. COORDINATOR (INFANTS) Call: 212-704-2565 overseas. Knwlge of fabric mkt & least 6 years previous buying exp. and photoshop /illustrator. Able to multi Expert in all phases of prod. Strong strong fashion sense. Outstanding task & work in fast paced environ- comm w/ overseas ofc/fact. Resp incl DDP analytical skills a must. Salary $100K + ment. Min 5 yrs exp. email resume to: issuing Po’s, approve all lab dips, strike Ssourcing • Producing • Importing w/bonus and great benefits. [email protected] offs, construction & quality. Min 3 yrs exp. Delivering to Your Warehouse Please email resume to: Send resume to: [email protected] TECHNICAL ASST Samples Free • Sweaters-Knits-Wovens [email protected] Leading mfr prvt label Div seeks Tech from China, Cambodia, Vietnam, Asst. Must be computer literate, excel. Bangladesh, Indonesia, Guatemala, CAD ARTIST Prod’n Coord $40-65K verbal & written communication skills. Dominica; Call John @ 212-391-4800 Fast paced, high energy, growing Designer / Merchandiser Wovens 3 Great Opptys! Must be efficient, fast paced but Or E-mail: [email protected] Women’s Apparel Co seeks CAD Artist Est’d children’s importer seeks indiv [email protected] 212-947-3400 extremely detail oriented. Able to spec w/ min 3 yrs exp. U4ia expert able to with min 5 yrs exp. to merchandise/ is a +. Pls e-mail your resume to : create prints, repeats & colorations. design boys 4-20 sportswear line. Prof [email protected] PATTERN/SAMPLES Must possess strong organizational in Illust/Phshp. Manage entire design Reliable. High quality. Low cost. Fast skills. Great opportunity for growth process from concept to finished Production Assistant work. Small/ Lrg production 212-629-4808 and excellent benefits package. Fax product in a fast paced environment. High pace company seeks a self resume: 212 827 3344 Attn: KL Email resume: [email protected] motivated individual must be proficient TECHNICAL in photo shop and illustrator fax res to PATTERNS, SAMPLES, Data Processor / 212 398-5466 att: Ori ILLUSTRATOR PRODUCTIONS Fast paced sportswear company seeks EDI Coordinator a Technical Illustrator with 2-3 years All lines, Any styles. Fine Fast Service. Production experience to work in busy design Call Sherry 212-719-0622. Major Apparel Co. seeks a responsible Design Opportunity department. Must know Photoshop, person with extensive knowledge of all Top junior co. seeks trendy Knits / Asst. Production Mgr. and Adobe Illustrator. Must have aspects of Order Processing/EDI Transac- Active wear designers. Must be crea- Well established women’s dress mfr. knowledge of garment construction PATTERNS, SAMPLES, tions, customer services, and trouble tive w/ sharp sense of style and color. looking for individual with Min. 5 years and details. Must be detail oriented, shooting. Must have 2 years experience Photoshop/Illustrator req’d. Min 3 yrs experience in import production. Must organized and able to work in a team PRODUCTIONS in garment industry. Fax/E-mail resume: junior design exp a must. be computer proficient, very organized, oriented environment. Full service shop to the trade. 212-967-8018 / [email protected] Fax resume to (212) 768-7752 or e-mail and strong communication skills. Please fax resume to: Fine fast work. 212-869-2699. [email protected] Fax Resume to HR: 212-898-1211 (212) 302-1980 WWD, THURSDAY, AUGUST 10, 2006 15 WWD.COM Survey: U.S. Women Puma ‘Going’ Sporty for Fall Ads

Buying Up Activewear NEW YORK — Puma is infusing a fash- ion message into its fall ads, which NEW YORK — Two-thirds of performance.” mark a departure from past lifestyle American women dedicate at least Women’s preferences vary re- campaigns. half of their closets to activewear. gionally. For example, 75 percent The German athletic company enlist- According to a July survey con- of Northeasterners give more than ed fashion photographer Sølve Sundsbø ducted by Kelton Research and com- half their closets over to workout to shoot its “I’m Going” ads. missioned by Portland, Ore.-based clothes, compared with 64 percent “We wanted to show a more sophis- lifestyle apparel company Lucy, of women who live in the West. ticated and inspirational look with this women aren’t saving workout clothes Women who live in warm-weather campaign,” said Antonio Bertone, global for the gym. They are trading tradi- climates, like the South, wear ac- director of brand management for Puma. tional sportswear for activewear as tivewear year-round as a cool and “How Puma perceives fashion is what their casual apparel of choice. comfortable option, Edwards said. makes us unique. There is that sport-life- Mike Edwards, president and chief Equipped with the survey re- style element that is inherent to Puma.” executive offi cer of Lucy, said the re- sults, Lucy plans to expand its pres- The nine print images, featuring sponses from more than 600 women, ence in the Northeast and South. Yugoslavian model Natasa Vojnovic, ages 18 to 50, matched his in- The company currently combine the brand’s performance sport, tuition. has 33 stores, primar- lifestyle, sport fashion ranges and new “We have always known ily in California. It plans denim collections, incorporating the Puma’s fall ad images. that half the customers to build nine more this lines into complete looks. who buy our products never year, in Chicago, Dallas, “In the ‘I’m Going’ campaign, we crack a sweat,” Edwards Washington, D.C. and its are thinking brand-wise and mix- said. “The activewear cate- core West Coast markets. For ing different categories and levels of gory is far bigger than sports the next few years, Edwards product,” Bertone said. “Instead of performance. Active clothing hopes to build 25 to 30 being so compartmentalized, we are is really an offset of the casu- stores per year, fi rst in the able to style within our own brand.” al clothing trend at large.” Northeast and then in the Shot in a studio, Sundsbø’s photos The survey found that South and beyond. refl ect the athletic brand’s bodies- half of women dress in ac- Lucy began online in in-motion “I’m Going” concept with tivewear regularly, even when late 1999 as lucy.com. The acrobatic poses, lighting and water. they have no inten- company shifted He shot the water images in multiple tion of working out, Above: Lucy activewear. its focus to brick- frames and layered them to create the and a third of women Here, a Lucy store. and-mortar stores impression they are frozen in time. choose activewear in 2001. Now Puma is coming off a strong per- to run weekend er- it has stores in formance at the World Cup, where it rands because the Arizona, California, sponsored the victorious Italian team. fitness apparel is Colorado, The company expected a 40 percent more comfortable Washington D.C., boost in soccer wear sales for the fi rst and easier to care Illinois, Oregon, six months of this year. for than other cloth- Texas, Virginia and The fall ads will debut in the ing options. Washington, and is September issues of Interview and Knowing how women wear the still online at lucy.com. Vogue, and will later run in W, Lucky, company’s products will affect how Edwards projects the company Elle, In Style and Nylon. (Like WWD, Lucy makes its lifestyle apparel. will increase 50 to 75 percent annu- Vogue, Lucky and W are owned by “Going forward, we will be putting ally over the next few years. Condé Nast Publications.) much more emphasis on having a “There is enormous growth po- Bertone would not disclose the ad fashion point of view,” Edwards said. tential for our concept,” he said. budget for fall, but said it was “our fi rst “We are not walking away from per- “This ongoing shift to activewear is female-heavy campaign, with over half formance, but we aren’t shouting not a fad. The psychography of the of the U.S. media targeted to female it either. This is a very radical shift country is changing.” consumers.” from how the industry has focused on — Whitney Beckett — W.B.

JR SWEATER SALES Est’d co seeks person with sweater SALESPERSON NY sales exp in mass & moderate mkts. Major imptr. seeks exp’d indiv. for sales Following & est’d contacts a must. If of Missy, Junior, Kids knit tops. Indiv. you are looking for a new environment must have contacts w/ Specialty stores Missy Line Rep w/ an oppty to grow, contact us. Salary & mass mkts. Email resume to: New Missy line in upper mod level Marketing / Sales Agent + incentives. Fax resume 516-374-1586 [email protected] seeking regional independent sales rep in the major market areas. SALESPERSON WTD Fax: 213-489-0084 Premium Denim Jeans For product development. Moderate Sales Executive Sweaters & Knits. If selling the same Artistic Denim Mill Ltd.,apremiumDenim Junior, Missy and Plus size outerwear, item is getting boring, try us. We do three million swimwear and sportswear importer beautifu l sweaters & knits. Full Mill producing yards of fabric and seeks exp’d exec w/ STRONG proven merchandising & design staff. Salary one million following to sell volume retailers. based on your contacts & exp. Please jeans per month for leading brands All contacts confidential. fax resume to Howard @ (212) 382-0790 is looking to appoint a Marketing / Sales Agent Fax resume to: 212-643-0181 Sales Pro - Sportswear Leading better sportswear firm has for the U.S. Market. opportunity for motivated, exp’d pro. Min 5 yrs exp. Current references re- Must have 5-7 years experience in the Denim Market. Sales Executive quired. Existing relationships w/ better Successful Missy/Plus size importer of spec. stores, catalogues, pvt label and [email protected] Novelty Sportswear (sweater, knit, blouse, branded following. E-mail resume: Contact via E-mail at: bottoms) seeks an exp’d. Sales Pro w/ [email protected] strong Dept. Store contacts. Must be a team player w/positive energy & strong follow-up skills. Fax resume: 212-840-5809 Sales Rep Wanted E-mail: [email protected] For Fashion Design Studio SALES & MARKETING right in the heart of mid-town EXECUTIVE For info call 212.279.8841 Must have BA or BS Sales/ Marketing MBA. Preferred 10yr. min exp with Sales Executive Industry branding leader is seeking Well established N.Y.C. Men’s, Ladies’, apparel company. Knowledge of high dynamic, self motivated, articulate Sales end women’s contemporary Lines and Boys Sleepwear/Robe Co. seeks a Store Mngr & Sales Associate Reps, with exceptional communication highly motivated & qualified national Luxury women’s ready-to-wear company Strong contacts w/ merchandising skills. An est’d relationship with National executives of Boutiques & Major Sales Executive for our Ladies’ Sleepwear/ seeks Store Manager, F/T P/T Sales Brands, Retail Specialty, & Dept. Stores Robe division. Must have strong estab- Staff for our Madison Ave boutique. Retailers. Position based in Los Angeles. is essential, with a background in design, E-mail: jhn [email protected] lished contacts w/major national chain Candidates must have high-end retail merchandising, & marketing an asset, store experience. Excellent opportunity experience, excellent customer-service with competency in Excel & Illustrator . for the right person! Salary commensu- skills, and a strong sense of style. Positions available: rate with experience. Benefits and 401K. Candidates with contacts and client • Sales Representative, New York Please Fax resume to: 646-304-8489 base preferred. For immediate consid- • Sales Representative, Montreal eration please direct resumes to: E-mail resume to: [email protected] [email protected] WWD WWD Section II: markets. metro major in Distribution: Bonus top-of-mind when this annual issue hits the streets timed to the Video MTV Music Awards. up the trends and the artists who dance to the beat of their own drum. Music and rockin’ fashion are WWDMusic uncovers the next generation of style makers in music and fashion —the musicians heading Style StartsHere August 31 College students on campuses nationwide and customers at select music stores music stores select at nationwide customers and campuses on students College ™ Close: group publisher, at 212-630-4589, or your WWD sales representative. sales publisher, WWD 212-630-4589, your group at or For more information on advertising, contact Ralph Erardy, senior vice president WWD August 15 August WWD MediaWorldwide ® feel the beat. Music SPECIAL ISSUE SPECIAL

PHOTO BY JEREMY GOLDBERG