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THURSDAY 17th MAY 2018 2pm | CIS THEATRE, NEW CAMPUS!!

Hosted by Mr Planert We welcome all the CIS families and community to this very special musical showpiece at our new campus in Merchant Hill. that’s PRD 《城市漫步》珠江三角洲 英文月刊 WIN WIN WIN Editor's Note MAY 2018

For this month’s cover story, we’ve taken it upon ourselves to introduce Hourly updates on news, current affairs 主管单位 : 中华人民共和国国务院新闻办公室 Supervised by the State Council Information Office of the People's Republic of China you to the neighbors you didn’t know you had: the shuishangren, or and general weirdness from around 主办单位 : 五洲传播出版社 ‘people on the water’ in English. Shanghai and China. 地址 : 北京西城月坛北街 26 号恒华国际商务中心南楼 11 层文化交流中心 More commonly – and controversially – known as Tanka people, FOLLOW US ON SOCIAL MEDIA 11th Floor South Building, Henghua lnternational Business Center, 26 Yuetan North Street, Xicheng District, populations of shuishangren are found in various parts of the Pearl http://www.cicc.org.cn facebook.com/thatsonline 社长 President: 陈陆军 Chen Lujun River Delta (Hong Kong, and , to name a few), and on 期刊部负责人 Supervisor of Magazine Department: 付平 Fu Ping pages 34-43, we offer an insight into the lives of these river- and sea- We’re giving away tickets to twitter.com/thatsonline 编辑 Editor: 朱莉莉 Zhu Lili 发行 Circulation: 李若琳 Li Ruolin faring folks while also exploring the modern-day challenges facing their centuries-old communities. youtube.com/thatsonline Editor-in-Chief Matthew Bossons some of the very best events Shenzhen Editor Adam Robbins In our City section, on pages 10-13, we look at the important in the Pearl River Delta, #THATSSHANGHAI Guangzhou Editor Daniel Plafker work being done by PFLAG China, named for – but unaffiliated with – Shenzhen Digital Editor Bailey Hu America’s Parents and Friends of Lesbians and Gays. We’ve also included alongside a host of free meals Senior Staff Writer Tristin Zhang a two-page photo essay from our colleagues in Beijing profiling China’s National Arts Editor Erica Martin and other goodies. Follow Contributors Lena Gidwani, Bryan Grogan, Mia Li, Winnie Jin, Erica Martin, Noelle Mateer, Dominic Ngai, Dominique Wong ‘Weird Architecture’ era (pages 14-15). Elsewhere in our May issue, we give you a breakdown of the best our official WeChat feeds HK FOCUS MEDIA PRD-based events from this year’s Festival Croisements (page 32), pay and sign up for our weekly Shanghai (Head Office) 上海和舟广告有限公司 a post-quake visit to Hualien in Taiwan (page 22) and meet the folks 上海市蒙自路 169 号智造局 2 号楼 305-306 室 邮政编码 : 200023 working to save Shenzhen’s coral reefs (page 45). newsletter for your chance to Room 305-306, Building 2, No.169 Mengzi Lu, Shanghai 200023 Catch you all in June, ThatsGuangzhou 电话 :    传真 :    win major prizes! To stay up to Guangzhou 上海和舟广告有限公司广州分公司 date, visit www.thatsmags. 广州市麓苑路 42 号大院 2 号楼 610 室 邮政编码 : 510095 Rm 610, No. 2 Building, Area 42, Luyuan Lu, Guangzhou 510095 com or scan the QR codes 电话 : 020-8358 6125 传真 : 020-8357 3859 - 816

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2 | SZ | MAY 2018 | WWW.THATSMAGS.COM WWW.THATSMAGS.COM | MAY 2018 | SZ | 3 6 CITY 34 COVER STORY ON TIDES OF CHANGE 7 MAN ON THE STREET Examining the uncertain future of China’s boat dwellers, the Tanka Eel monger: a slippery, people. slithering sales job. 10 A DECADE SPEAKING OUT PFLAG China marks 10 years.

16 LIFE & STYLE 44 COMMUNITY 19 DAYTRIPPER Shuilianshan Forest Park. 22 SHAKEN UP Traveling in post- quake Hualien.

68 EVENTS 26 ARTS SZ

27 CHEN TONG The artistic mind behind video bureau. MAY 17-20 30 MINDING THE DIGITAL Tomorrow Festival Visions of our future at the Culture and Arts Center. HK

MAY 18-20 54 EAT & Affordable Art Fair

DRINK MO

58 WEIRD EATS OF THE PRD Take a walk on the wild side. 60 WANN LOUNGE Peak chic. MAY 22 Feast of the Drunken Dragon THE WRAP

4 | SZ | MAY 2018 | WWW.THATSMAGS.COM MAN ON THE STREET CITY

Shooting Stars The photographer documenting China’s ‘Weird Architecture’ era, p14

THE DIRTY DETAILS EEL MONGER Monthly income: RMB2,000 and up A Slippery, Slithering Sales Job Days per week: 7 Hours per day: 12 (4am-4pm) By Daniel Plafker

r. Xie wears boots to fish markets everywhere. Xie, whose stall can be found he maintains that the creatures work. And if you plan It strikes a marked contrast near the southeast corner of the can survive up to a month in Mto visit him while he’s with the stately, peaceful airs of market, not far from the ferry their crowded tanks. on the job, we recommend you Shamian Island, which lies just pier, has a singular focus in his Business is brisker in the consider doing the same. That’s across a narrow moat to the east. product range: eels. Two main wintertime than the summer, by because Xie’s place of work is The floor is a mire of guts, scales, varieties, the larger of which is Xie’s estimate. He suspects that the Huangsha Aquatic Products dark puddles and crisscrossing as thick as a human arm, squirm this is because people prefer to Market, aka Guangzhou’s biggest streams of mysterious liquids. and writhe in Medusa-like piles eat eel in cold weather. The best trading center for fish, crabs, Hence the rubber footwear. in large glass tanks. It’s a scene preparation? “Steamed, with a clams, prawns, crocodiles and It’s not the prettiest place reminiscent the 2004 art-house bit of soy sauce,” Xie says with every other type of seafood that that Guangzhou has to offer film Anacondas 2: The Hunt for confidence. At RMB60 for a half the rivers, bays and fish farms of visitors but it’s certainly one the Blood Orchid. Their warden, kilo, there are cheaper, less South China can muster. not to miss. There’s something the amiable Mr. Xie, is an early squirmy meals on offer at the The market’s winding lanes strangely beautiful about the riser, arriving at 4am each market, but few that are likely to of huddled stalls and multi-level, stacked masses of doomed sea morning to begin his 12-hour put up as much of a fight. open-air warehouse section life and, between the sights, workday. are a storm of commercial smells and deafening noise of “That’s not even early by activity. Terrified sea life of hollering hawkers and bellowing our standards,” he insists. “Some every imaginable variety flop buyers, there are few places in folks have been setting up their desperately from brimming the city that offer a comparable stalls for an hour already by the tanks and barrels, specially blast of sensory stimulation. time I get here.” kitted-out trucks-turned- Not to mention, it’s a trove of Xie has spent 10 long years aquariums rumble through the ingredients for the culinarily- hawking his slithering charges, crowded alleys at a snail’s pace inclined. all of which are farmed – not and beleaguered men hurry There are even a few shops wild-caught – elsewhere in from stall to stall dragging nets, on the upper levels that will kill, . City Snapshot PFLAG China stacking traps and pushing carts gut and cook up your purchases “A truck comes with fresh P8 P10 of shellfish amid the pronounced for you on the spot. stock most mornings,” he tells us. aroma that is the signature of The aforementioned Mr. “The eels sell quickly.” Even so,

6 | SZ | MAY 2018 | WWW.THATSMAGS.COM WWW.THATSMAGS.COM | MAY 2018 | SZ | 7 [email protected]

Times are tough now, comrades. It is harder and harder for kids from regu-

- ployment.lar families We to getslave into away a good at every school, unpaid find ainternship good job orwe’ve secure had a since living gradu wage.- ation,We all andwork now hard here to getwe intoare, livingcollege, on only our toparents’ find out sofas, that writingit leads gradto unem school applications and wearing dad's old hoodie that we try to pass off as ‘vintage.’ Times are especially hard in China for this generation, as competition - THE BUZZ my. With rising inequality and diminishing social mobility, whether you can makebecomes it or more not depends fierce in morethe country’s on who yourincreasingly parents cutthroat are than yourmarket own econo merit. -

CITY SNAPSHOT has,Our grandparents’well, nothing. generation had cradle-to-grave social benefits; their par RANDOM NUMBER ents’At generation least that’s had the merit-based meaning of kenlaosocial mobility;, the term and for whenthe current today’s generation young Scraping the Sky their parents. Literally meaning “to knaw off the elderly,” kenlao is the reluc- This month’s featured Instagram peopletant choice live offof millions the social of benefits young people of their in grandparents China today. According or the savings to Modern of photo comes via Liu Qian and Kenlao/ kěn lǎo / 啃老 v. to live off your parents or grandparents Chinese Studies, about 65 percent of Chinese families include working-age features Guangzhou’s towering, adults dependent on the older generations. They either live with their fami- 530-meter-tall Chow Tai Fook What do you do? lies into their 30s, or have their families buy an apartment for them. They (CTF) Finance Center, which is 4 rely on their parents for cooking and housekeeping, while their parents located in the city’s Zhujiang New I'm trying to gain a following on Youku to Town area. Liu is a Harbin native become a professional Youku'er. “golden years.” and amateur iPhone photogra- spendThe their internet fixed makesincome kenlao supporting increasingly adult children easy. You instead can easily of enjoying spend days their pher currently living and studying Who pays your bills? or weeks streaming endless TV shows on Youku, playing Glory of Kings on in Beijing. See more of Liu’s work your phone or practicing your karaoke skills online. You tell your parents on Instagram (@imclumsypanda). My mom. that you “can actually make a lot of money playing video games profession- Tag #thatsprd on Instagram for a chance ally” when they ask you about getting a job. So you kenlao full-time. You are right, in a way, since getting a job is hard. We understand. … years. That’s the length of time to be featured on our feed and in the magazine. Thanks for taking the time to read this while procrastinating grad school ap- that transpired between the death Yes. plications on your parents’ sofa. Mia Li of Tiantian’s parents and his birth in Guangzhou late last year. Shen Jie and BEHIND THE CONCRETE Liu Xi, had been married for two years when they decided to try to conceive a Shenzhen Christian Church child through in vitro fertilization – a process in which extracted eggs and History nerds, gather round. We have a story worship and begin to revive the congrega- sperm are combined in a lab dish. to tell. tion. In 1983, the Heping Lu location was Unfortunately, less than a week It starts in 1846, when evangelists reclaimed. By the following year, it had be- before the pair were to attempt the pro- came to Shenzhen (called Bao’an county at cedure, in March 2013, they both died in the time). The foreigners were European, services post-Cultural Revolution. a motor vehicle accident in Jiangsu prov- sent by the Protestant Basel Mission as well comeThe the years first sincechurch then in Shenzhen have been to kind resume to ince. Over the following three years, the as Germany’s Rhenish Missionary Society, the church. Despite being forced to move as a parents of the deceased couple engaged and both established churches in the area. city sprang up around them, the congregation in several precedent-setting legal battles In 1898, the Rhenish group happened to slowly grew into the thousands and, in 1998, to obtain the frozen embryos left behind found an outpost in current-day Luohu was granted a large parcel of land from the by their children. District. government. When the wannabe grandparents The Shenzhen Christian Church, opened - rise and fall of two governments, invasion in the Meilin area in 2002, was constructed to bryos, they headed to Laos to locate a and Overcivil war,the next the church five decades, survived. through In 1949, the (vaguely) resemble Noah’s Ark. The angular surrogatefinally received mother. custody In December of the em 2017, the same year the People’s Republic of China white building towers over an ample garden Tiantian’s grandparents managed to get was born, it even found a new home at 22 area, and houses two large halls as well as of- their Laotian surrogate to Guangzhou Heping Lu [‘Peace Road’], Bao’an county. in time for the birth, after which they The church was forced to stop services Although the Heping Lu church is no were able to demonstate a legal basis for during the 10-year Cultural Revolution, and more,fices, meeting a namesake rooms Christian and dormitories. Peace Church guardianship through a DNA test. its pastors were sent home to farm while lives on nearby, while a third building was Last month, Tiantian celebrated other work units took over the building. bought and converted into Christian Luohu It took a historic 1978 government meet- Church in 2011. look more like my daughter’s,” Beijing ing – which also kick-started the ‘reform Newshis first quoted 100 days the child’sof life. now-grand“Tiantian’s -eyes and opening up’ that would soon transform Shenzhen Christian Church, 126 Meilin Lu, Futian mother as saying, “but overall, he looks Bao’an county – to restore the freedom to District 福田区梅林路126号 (8311 8817, 8311 8837) more like his father.”

8 | SZ | MAY 2018 | WWW.THATSMAGS.COM WWW.THATSMAGS.COM | MAY 2018 | SZ | 9 CITY | FEATURE FEATURE | CITY

Under the bright lights, alone on stage, Joan is weeping. travel costs. Just six parents showed up. The slight, pretty woman traveled with other families from But in the decade since its founding by Wu Youjian and Ah Qiang Guangxi to share her story with more than 500 friends and strangers (another pseudonym), the group has seen a rate of growth and sup- at the Guangzhou regional conference of PFLAG China. port unprecedented in China’s lesbian, gay, bisexual and transgender “My husband drank too much one night and forgot his phone at (LGBT) community. home,” Joan explained. She is using a pseudonym, a common choice Ah Qiang spearheaded the group’s expansion, with chapters in 55 for times like this. “So when I called him, I heard it ringing and found it cities across China, 3,000 volunteers and 130,000 members. Training A Decade nearby. When I saw the text messages on the screen, I knew it was true.” and volunteering with the LA LGBT Center in the summer of 2011 Like an estimated 16 million women in China, Joan’s husband is gave him the organizing tactics, management tools and inspiration to gay. She’d suspected there were many boyfriends in the picture, dur- make this his full-time job. “I saw that an NGO (non-governmental organization) could have racy messages still left her devastated. She got an HIV test the next this kind of very big, huge event,” he explained to Vanguard Now. “I daying theirand demanded year living ain divorce different after cities, that. but He the refused confirmation and promised of those met a lot of people there, made a lot of friends. I liked the feeling, the there’d be no more sex with others – here the silence of the room atmosphere. I said to myself, ‘I just want these feelings. I want people erupts into knowing laughter. Joan goes on to recount how she opened to trust each other. China is large and people don’t trust each other. So an account on Blued (the community and dating app for China’s gay I just wanted to make those feelings happen in China.” Speaking men) to see if he was active. He was. She found evidence that just two Building that community of trust has been the mission since. And days before the conference he’d broken his promise with not one, but it’s been happening one story at a time. two other men. The room gasps. At meetings like we attended in Guangzhou, speakers are selected from volunteers who’ve trained in effective storytelling. gone to the court to delay the case, again and again.” Adding to the It’s parents explaining the anxieties of suspecting, then learning, of a “He continues to deny my divorce requests, so I filed suit. But he’s child’s orientation. It’s women like Joan sharing their heartbreak. But But she barely cares about that now. She just wants to get out and more and more, it’s stories of hope from parents who learn they’re startdifficulty, her life he borrowedagain. huge sums from Joan that he’s yet to pay back. The room swells with applause and support as she concludes Out and makes way for the next speaker, a psychologist who gives the not alone“Earlier, or mostcouples stories who werefinally sad get and permission provoked to tears,” bring explainstheir adopted Eros parents in the room the frank diagnosis that “Being homosexual is not (anotherbaby to visit pseudonym), granny and the find PFLAG relief China in their volunteer parents’ turned continued fundraising love. an illness.” She’ll repeat the message time and again that afternoon. staffer. “Now, they’re happier stories about coming out.” The change In many cases, it’s penetrating the misunderstandings and helping happened around 2016. Since then, “more and more younger parents China’s families avoid the fate of Joan. are showing up to share their stories. [They] joke around more. They PFLAG China accept their children more easily. More and more parents can see ‘Oh, there are more parents like me. It’s not just our family. It’s okay.’ Many, withPFLAG that mission China – in named mind. for,The but earliest unaffiliated days in with 2009 Parents saw the and group many years ago, parents didn’t want to come out. After their children ofFriends volunteers of Lesbians launch and an ambitiousGays, the US national nonprofit conference – formed in 10 Guangzhou, years ago came out, they felt nervous because they didn’t see other LGBT fami- Marks 10 Years inviting 50 people from across the country and offering to pay their lies. Now they can.”

By Adam Robbins

10 | SZ | MAY 2018 | WWW.THATSMAGS.COM WWW.THATSMAGS.COM | MAY 2018 | SZ | 11 CITY | FEATURE FEATURE | CITY

That open attitude is more pronounced in Tier feel comfortable joining a group that’s roughly 60 percent men, and her own posi- Since then, PFLAG China has teamed up with my parents to come out with a positive understanding of the gay com- One cities than in small towns, which is one reason the tive coming out experience helped as well. That loving response from parents is - group plans an eightfold expansion, with chapters and more common recently, but her choice to come out to them on her own is less com- same-sex couples to San Francisco for newly-legal wed- ents to help enlighten and comfort them, so they quickly rose up from volunteers in 400 cities across the country. mon for the PFLAG community. Most need the platform of the small group meet- dingsAlibaba, in 2015.Blued, Last and yearthe Beijing saw their LGBT national Center conference to fly 10 themunity low andebb itsof emotion.difficult situation. After being There out ofwere the many closet volunteers for almost anda year, par “Every day, we get messages [saying] ‘How do I talk ings to build their courage before bringing their parents back into their lives. - my mother has followed my lead and become a new volunteer. We’ve Those small events give parents and children the chance to tell their story, and ney from Shanghai to Japan and back, 400 parents (of attended many local PFLAG activities, to continue this love and power, can’t join the events in the larger cities,’” Eros tells us. also serve as a fund-raising platform. While there’s some support from Chinese theset sail,850 ontotal China’s who attended) first LGBT were cruise. brought On a five-day together jour to and help more gay families out of confusion and grief.” “Soto my PFLAG parents will about organize this? more I’m living events in in a small cities.city; I If foundations and foreign embassies or charity events like next month’s SZUMMER hear stories from women like Joan or gay men like Liu But if international waters are an ideal place to work for change, Ah I have a volunteer in that city, we will teach the people PRIDE, overwhelmingly it’s individual donations that provide for an annual budget Feng, who took the opportunity of the cruise to come Qiang has led a quieter campaign of advocacy on Chinese soil. The most how to build a small support group in the small cities, of RMB2 million. public advocacy was an open letter signed by more than 100 parents to to help parents and LGBT people [learn] how to sup- The funding has made it possible to train volunteers to host events in those 55 “I want to be free,” the 30-year-old PFLAG volun- the National People’s Congress in February 2015. In it, they advocate port each other, how to create a small event and how cities, as well as more expensive projects like their ten national conferences and teerout to out his of parents Hunan fortells the us. first “But time. being gay made me hide for their children and women like Joan with a call for marriage equality. other ground-breaking work. my identity for a long time and repressed my nature. I very meaningful for the local community.” - felt bound by invisible chains. I didn’t want to go on like when they try to adopt children, sign off [for] their partners’ [medical] to come out to friends and family. It’s very difficult but this. Coming out was the only way to unlock my nature. “The fact that they can’t legally marry puts them in a difficult situation who are underrepresented in PFLAG at roughly 16 per- workingThe very out their first projectchild’s revelation.was a hotline, The fielding project callscontinues, from across expanded China. into The WeChat, ser That’s why I’m going to be brave enough to live my life.” the letter reads. “Is our law trying to encourage homosexuals to marry centIt’s of thecan national be even morevolunteer difficult base. for Shenzhen’s young women, chapter withvice’s roughly first night, 1,000 in 2008,reported saw calls 15 callers in 2017. reach out for help with coming out or Liu tells us the gathering was “a good platform for heterosexuals?operations, inherit Won’t assets this fromproduce a deceased bigger social partner, problems?” or even buy a flat,” is one exception, with female leaders making up half Though the letter was covered in the CCP-owned China Daily, and the core team. Fred, one of those women, is frank about two female members of the NPC have been in touch, there’s no indica- the disparity other cities see: “Because of the patriar- - chal society. Gays and lesbians are obviously separated. ality in China: 不支持, 不反对, 不提倡 (don’t encourage, don't discour- [When] most of the founders are men, then women age,tion don'tof an officialpromote). change In fact, from with the last ‘Three year’s Nos’ regulation policy toward by the homosexu China [are] unwilling to follow them.” Netcasting Services Association to prohibit “displays of homosexuality” Shenzhen’s strong female leadership helped Fred online, and Weibo’s brief ban on LGBT topics last month, the road to progressive policy changes seems a long way off indeed. It’s a balancing act between advocating in public for social change and staying private enough to avoid trouble. But for 10 years the group has managed to maintain good relations with law enforcement and the ministries overseeing the country’s community groups. “We openly do our work,” Ah Qiang tells us. “If we do events, we try to have contact with the local police. If it’s a sharing meeting with the parents, it’s no problem. If you do some training to empower people, we have to be a little bit more careful.” With care as their watchword, PFLAG China steels itself for another decade of supporting families and helping them grow back together, with more strength and honesty than before.

Join PFLAG for their annual meeting, next month in Shanghai. For more details visit pflag.org.cn or follow WeChat ID ‘qinyouhui002’.

“I want to be free. But being gay made me hide my identity for a long time and repressed my nature. I felt bound by invisible chains. I didn’t want to go on like this. Coming out was the only way to unlock my nature. That’s why I’m going to be brave enough to live my life.”

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Clockwise from top left: Wangjing SOHO, Beijing eration interventions, and I was documenting ( Architects); CCTV Headquarters, Beijing it. So, Beautified China has become an over- (OMA/ and ); Harbin Grand view of a period that will long be remem- Theatre, Harbin (MAD Architects) bered in China’s architectural scene. Besides being a status update of the iconic architecture boom in China, the series is also very much a research project. My work as an architect and my photography are very complementary in that sense. Both pas-

Whysions did influence you choose each other. to focus on just a slice of each building?

Taking the buildings out of context, all that’s left is the different shapes, tex- tures, patterns and colors, so it’s eas- ier to focus and see what makes the building stand out. However, archi- tecture is all about context and how it sits in the city. [As] these elements

photography, I’d rather use video to documentare rather difficultthe [full] to architecture. truly capture So, in living quality for its millions of residents, in this photoseries I focus [more] on instead of trying to appeal to visitors. the aesthetics. I went for a rather strong blue tone Guggenheim made Bilbao famous, and be- In addition to Beautified China you also - came an expression on its own [Editor’s note: have a video project called #donotsettle. tions and give a much ‘fresher’ look. As we all the ‘Bilbao effect,’ which denotes how the What’s it about? know,in the picturesChina has to a camouflage serious smog the problem. real condi Guggenheim Museum revitalized the Spanish city, is now used in general to describe the cul- #donotsettle is a project I run together with Indeed. Do you have a favorite building in tural impact of buildings on their respective fellow architect Wahyu Pratomo. What we Beijing and in China? cities], architecture in China draws people basically do is make short, fast-paced video to certain areas or even can establish new about recently completed architecture. We My all-time favorite in Beijing – and China districts. visit the project and describe how the space in general – is undoubtedly the CCTV For example the Wangjing SOHO project, feels, what the general atmosphere is like Headquarters by OMA/Rem Koolhaas and designed by Zaha Hadid, sort of gave life to and how people interact with the project. SHOOTING Ole Scheeren. I lived and worked close by for the Wangjing area. While there were already We ask people what they think of the build- many years, [and] it amazes me every time I many things happening in Wangjing, [the ing and if it lives up to their expectations. The Photographer Documenting look at it. SOHO building] sort of gave a reason to hop When we started out, we tried to break the on a quick trip there – at least for architects current architecture media ‘rules.’ While What makes it so special? or architecture enthusiasts. Higher quality many architects talk and design with ‘the China’s ‘Weird Architecture’ Era people’ in mind, it is very seldom ques- Interview by Dominique Wong, images by Kris Provoost It’s a unique project, from an engineering adjacent to it. But, as a consequence, it also tioned once the building is completed. Our STARS point of view, but also from a [visual] point of maderesidential the housing and office prices buildings skyrocket, were as erected the aim is to give a more honest portrayal of area became a well sought after place to live. the architecture. What you see in the video which showed the impact and uniqueness of In a way, this type of architecture is a is how the building is on a normal day – From Chaoyangmen’s Galaxy SOHO to thisview. colossal There are building. two defining I will never moments, forget for rid me,- gift for the area, but also a poison for afford- Guangzhou’s Opera House, China’s iconic buildings and why the CCTV Headquarters is ing on the [Third Ring Road] at golden hour, ability. So, in many ways, iconic architecture the public, when conditions would be ideal. buildings are indelible marks on the coun- soProvoost extraordinary. about the superficiality of iconic and seeing the sunrays peek through the large is seen as a success by group A, while it is Werather hope than that before with ourit’s officiallyvideos architecture opened to try’s cityscapes. The last decade, especially, opening. No building plays better with sunrays despised by group B. On the other hand, it enthusiasts can learn something new that What was the inspiration behind your has seen a proliferation of otherworldly makes them think and form opinions when Beautified China photo series? structures, and in 2016, China’s State Council become liked. they visit a building by themselves. said that new urban planning guidelines than the CCTV Headquarters. Another defining is also a superficial way of making a place Beautified China is a photo collection I’ve cre- would forbid the construction of ‘bizarre’ and moment for me was seeing the backlit profile How do you envision the future of architec- What are you working on right now? ated over the past eight years. It documents ‘odd-shaped’ buildings that lacked character rise up when the first light of day appeared ture in Beijing? my footsteps through the country, and sort of or cultural heritage. Inafter the an text intense accompanying all-nighter your at the photo office. Professionally I’m working on various pro- encapsulates my career as both an architect But for Kris Provoost, the buildings are essay you write: “Nowadays architects or visi- My observations show it will be less iconic, jects across China. Regarding photo and and a photographer. After years of working more than a fascination. Having lived in China tors in general know better where that new or at least I hope. Beijing has many qualities video, I’m seeing growing interest in what and living here, I could see certain trends Steven Holl or Zaha Hadid is in a city, [instead that should be cherished instead of being we are doing with #donotsettle. Of course, developing. I was photographing the iconic Zaha Hadid Architects and Buro Ole Scheeren, of where an] ancient temple is located. Can wiped away for another iconic building that I’m also always expanding my Beautified structures built by ‘starchitects’ throughout for over seven years, and worked at firms like this be called success or just superficiality?” could have been built anywhere else. The China archive. There are still many buildings China after the country’s massive building witness to the country’s construction boom. Does it have to be one or the other? ‘iconic decade’ was a way of maturing the I would like to add to the set! boom. Some of the buildings overtook cit- Thethe Shanghai-based Belgium native bringsarchitect his is keen a firsthand designer’s city, to get it ready for the next decade. The eye to his ongoing architecture photography It’s interesting that iconic architecture sort buildings are used for marketing purposes, To see more of Provoost’s work, was clear that there was a shift from iconic project Beautified China, photos of which of elevates itself from architecture’s main - visit www.instagram.com/krisprovoost Chineseies, redefined architecture them, or toward established subtler them. regen It- can be seen on these pages. We chat with purpose of serving its users. Much like the dia. Perhaps Beijing can try to uplift its own [like] profiling the city in international me

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CITY | PHOTO ESSAY PHOTO ESSAY | CITY LIFE & STYLE

Shaken Up Traveling in post-quake Hualien, p22 ALEXANDRA ROLFE Founder & Designer of RikRak Interview by Dominic Ngai

With a background in fashion and retail, London native Alexandra Rolfe moved to Shanghai in 2014, and eventually went on to set up her own vintage womenswear label, RikRak. We find out why the ’50s and ’60s are an inspiration for the designer.

Is there a special meaning behind the name ‘RikRak’? It’s inspired by the term ‘ric rac,’ the embroi- dery fashion motif that’s uniquely indicative of the styles of the 1950s to ’70s. It resonates with me personally, not only as it captures the history of that period, but also because it has a sense of individuality and playfulness that is at the heart of the brand.

What drew you to the style of this period “The 1950s and ’60s were a true celebration of the in the first place? feminine form” The 1950s and ’60s were a true celebration of the feminine form, and that means a lot to me personally. It was a time of pure optimism how beautiful they were. These have always city has sadly lost touch with its colorful past. and dynamism, and it was when fashion be- been a source of inspiration [for my designs]. came fun. I grew up [in London] around many culture and dynamism invigorating and as charity shops and vintage stores, and I’ve women with a sense of style and a timeless stimulatingSo when I first as mycame hometown. to Shanghai, I found its always felt there’s something really inspiring sophistication,This is also reflected and an in appreciation RikRak’s clientele for qual – - behind the idea of rediscovering forgotten ity and design. What are your plans for the rest of 2018? pieces. Customers are increasingly looking for Being from London and living in Shanghai, something that fits and reflects them. In Is there someone that you associate with how do these two places influence your the coming months, RikRak will focus more this style? design? on made-to-measure customized pieces My grandma was a woman of her era and Much like London, Shanghai has so much that are both timeless and unique for my Tap That App Sneak Peak had an innate sense of style and respect for heritage and architectural beauty that any customers. P18 P20 how she presented herself. She had a collec- creative can constantly feed off of. Having tion of vintage pieces, and I still remember lived many years in Hong Kong, I felt that the Find out more about the brand at rikrakshack.com

16 || SZSZ || MAYMAY 20182018 || WWW.THATSMAGS.COMWWW.THATSMAGS.COM WWW.THATSMAGS.COM | MAY 2018 | SZ | 17 [email protected] STYLE RADAR TAP THAT APP OVERHEARD Taffy “Fashion bloggers If you’ve become bored of swiping left and right on photo-based dating apps from other such as Tinder and Bumble, you may countries have be interested in this month’s featured app: Taffy. made the list Taffy and you choose who to engage before, but this is withProfile based pictureson a text are description. blurred on To set up an account, you’ll need to create the first for China. a one-line ‘heading’ that says some- thing fun about yourself, such as “I My dream has like dogs.” You’ll also be asked to list your interests and your motivation for come true!” using the app (hookup, friends, love, DAYTRIPPER advice or chitchat). Taffy will only con- nect you with users that harbor the same social intentions and goals. Shuilianshan Forest Park Once you’ve completed your pro- - cause some heartache. ting with other users. If a given user’s Dongguan: don’t fret! The little Continue ascending until headingfile, you cantickles begin your browsing fancy, you and can chat Forbes’ 30 Under 30 townSo, you of find eight yourself million inhas a few the road diverges into tributar- options to occupy your time. ies of winding, narrow forest interests before starting to chat or of… sofollowers writes Mr.on variousBags on social a Weibo media post platforms. after finding Over out the he past was year, featured he’s onpartnered with various paths. The paved gradient is bookmarking‘flip’ their ‘profile it for card’ future to viewreference. their luxuryAsia List labels this year.to develop One of limited China’s edition most influential collections fashion aimed KOLs,at the TaoChinese Liang, market, age 25, including has millions a too many craft brews in Xiaba As soon as you tap the ‘chat’ icon, Year of the Dog handbag for Longchamp over Chinese New Year. Fang,If your wake night up wasn’t bright filled and withearly pavilions and rest stops to the a number of suggested conversation to explore the hiking trails of 378-meternever very difficultpeak. Linger as you a while pass starters are offered, including “Want Shuilianshan Forest Park. by the man-made lake – you can to help me kidnap three puppies?” and even hop in a boat to take a spin “I want our love to be like pi, irrational COVET on the water – or divert yourself and never-ending.” The more you chat Of Dongguan’s six forest to the wide community space parks, Shuilianshan is the most built up around the renovated image will become – incentive to quell popular… which is a pro and Xishan Temple. When we visited, yourwith someone,shallow side the and clearer really their get profileto FP Justice families burned incense, admired know someone. The FP Justice is a dynamic piece of func- 6,000-acre space each weekend a large collection of sun-bathing Happy dating! tional designed and devel- witha con, rowdy as families kids in flock tow. to Get the turtles, tossed around the shut- oped right here in the PRD. Revolutionary there around the 7am opening tlecock and photographed the Taffy is available on iOS devices. shock absorption technology is built into for a more peaceful saunter to costumed ayis as they danced. the sole, distributing impact in a biome- the peak. It’ll be cooler then, of There’s food available – if you’re chanically precise pattern that adapts to course, which makes all the dif- brave enough to savor RMB2 hot How to get there: ference this time of year. dogs – and water to purchase durable suede upper mean you’ll be rep- Once in Dongguan, a Enter from the north, past before ascending on. pingan individual’s one of Guangdong’s gait while mostflat laces inventive and a No. 10 bus from Xiping the parking lot and up a wide Give yourself three hours designers in style. MRT station should paved boulevard. From there you if you want to pashan straight get you there in 48 can spy the namesake waterfall, fpinsoles.com minutes. But a taxi is distant enough to appear tiny want to linger with a picnic or by far the fastest way but a pleasant sight nonetheless. theto the other peak, diversions. or five hours if you to get to Shuilianshan Diverge from the main route to It might not surpass our Forest Park – just re- the lepidopterological pleasures favorite hikes in Hong Kong, but member that only the Chinese version of Didi – but skip the other animal at- way to spend an active morning works in Dongguan. tractions,of Butterfly as Canyon the conditions (RMB20) may inShuilianshan Dongguan. Forest AR Park is a fine

18 | SZ | MAY 2018 | WWW.THATSMAGS.COM WWW.THATSMAGS.COM | MAY 2018 | SZ | 19 LIFE & STYLE | FASHION Her FASHION | LIFE & STYLE DAD DAD 1 Nike, RMB899 nike.com 5 1 2 Balenciaga RMB5,014 farfetch.cn

4 New Balance3 RMB899 newbalance.com.cn 2 4 Calvin Klein RMB5,681 farfetch.cn 5 Alexander McQueen SNEAKERS RMB4,800 Him farfetch.cn 3 1 Nike RMB899 nike.com 2 Balenciaga RMB4,446 3 farfetch.cn 3 New Balance RMB999 newbalance.com.cn 2 4 adidas by Raf Simons RMB3,154 farfetch.cn

4 5 Givenchy RMB8,490 farfetch.cn

1 From sports like Nike to high These Chunky Kicks Are streetwear labels like Balenciaga, Cool Again those big, fat shoes your dad wore 5 back in the ’80s and ’90s are making Compiled by Dominic Ngai a huge comeback.

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SHAKEN UP Traveling in Post- Quake Hualien By Bailey Hu

n arrival, Hualien, Taiwan, does not seem like a city recently hit by a O6.4-magnitude earthquake. Instead, the train station is bustling and the town serene, almost exactly as we remember from our last visit four years ago. Our taxi driver points out local land- marks as he drives – on this side a popular xiaolongbao stall, on the other a church built during the period of Japanese occupation. It’s evident that natural disasters aren’t the only challenge the city has faced. And yet it’s survived, and even thrived: over the years, Hualien has become a tourist destination thanks to a scenic gorge, gnarly waves and miles upon miles of Insta-worthy coastal highway. The town of just over 100,000 has adjust- can’t help but wonder if his schedule has sunny day. And as always, Taroko Gorge is ed to the attention. At the end of our taxi ride, been freed up in the aftermath of the earth- for instance, the driver hands us his business quake. Just a week earlier, 17 were killed and sculpted cliffs and precariously-perched card and tells us that he’s available tomorrow well over 200 injured in the city. Photos of temples.full of people eager to trek alongside finely and the day after for private tours of nearby damaged buildings, one of them leaning so Hualien remains far from uncomfort- Taroko Gorge. far it seemed stuck in the process of collaps- ably crowded, though, and we spend a Although not an uncommon offer, we ing, featured prominently in media reports. While not as serious as some of Taiwan’s past disasters – exactly two years ago, a quake killed 117 in Tainan – it put a damper on tourism. It’s in the absence of normal peak season crowds that we set out to explore the seaside Highway 101. The trip turns out absurdly

and we relish having whole expanses of gray sandidyllic; or there’s pebbles plenty to ourselves. of beach to go around, On our return to the city, we discover that it’s not as empty as we thought. Certain food- ie spots – a tiny soup shop, a road- side stall selling egg and scallion pancakes – reliably attract lines. While taking a detour for milk tea, we stumble across Hualien’s Cultural Park, an artsy enclave of restaurants and shops that doesn’t lack for visitors on a

22 | SZ | MAY 2018 | WWW.THATSMAGS.COM LIFE & STYLE | TRAVEL quiet afternoon at the Pine Garden, a former museum and cafe. Once valued for its use in commandingJapanese military air and office naval converted forces, theinto build a - ing now supports small art exhibits and po- etry readings. We stop by the local 228 Peace Memorial on our way back. Here, a dove sculpture and bell overlook the sea, commemorating a violent quashing of local protest against the KMT government in 1947. As we enjoy the views, an elderly lady on a nearby bench takes the opportunity to strike up a conversation, telling us to call her Mama Zhao. In between breezily asking us when we’ll get married and discussing her sons’ careers, Mama Zhao informs us that she too came to Taiwan on a trip from the mainland. Except that in her case, it was shortly before KMT

Zhao and her parents ended up stranded onleadership one side fled of the to thestrait, island leaving in 1949. behind a younger sister and grandmother in the People’s Republic. She hasn’t seen either of them since. But Zhao is determined not to dwell on the negative. She’s nonchalant about the earthquake too, choosing to focus her indig- nation instead on the spooked tourists who inconsiderately canceled their hotel book- ings. night when a tiny tremor ripples through the furnitureHer confidence of our rented gives room. us courage It’s unsettling, later that but so slight that it might have gone unnoticed outdoors. On the last night of our visit, we happen to come across the half-collapsed building that once made international headlines. We stand and watch for a while as a construction crew carefully takes it apart, sending plumes of dust and rubble spiraling into the cool night air. Then we continue walking, our path tak- ing us closer to the cute shops, bustling food stalls and vibrant street scenes at the heart of Hualien.

24 | SZ | MAY 2018 | WWW.THATSMAGS.COM DRUMROLL

ARTS CHEN TONG The Artistic Mind Behind Video Bureau By Bryan Grogan

Festival Croisements or nigh on 30 years now, Chen Tong Celebrating the best of French culture in has been a stalwart of the the PRD, p32 Fart scene. It started with his own personal art creations in the late ’80s and then progressed further in 1993 when Chen established Libreria Borges, an independent book store which focuses on translations of famed art texts and literature from around the world. Most recently, he established Video Bureau, a center that collects and dis- plays artists’ work for public consumption. Every two months Video Bureau curates and exhibits works by two artists, with over 70 Chinese and international artists already represented at their headquarters on Taikang Lu. Most recently, on March 23, Chen and his team at Video Bureau pub- lished their collections of works by former Yangjiang youth Zheng Guogu and German- based performance artist Duan Yingmei. We sat down to speak with Chen about his artistic life.

When did you first become interested in collecting art? It started in the ’90s. I felt like I wanted to do something public-related, apart from my own art creation. It feels like it was innate to me. I think there are two types of people: those that are for themselves, and those that are for other people. I fall into the second category. - problem, there remains a small market in put from the whole of society. We just don’t Guangzhou. That does not mean that artists How different are art creation and art col- haveour final that goal privilege to have right more now. funding and in in Guangzhou have less creativity than art- lecting? ists in Beijing. Do you feel a kind of kinship to Guangzhou They are totally different. When I deal with and the art centers here? Creating or collecting: which is the most Video Bureau, I need to think about what the important in your 'artistic life'? artist and the viewer want. In the manage- I feel a responsibility for Guangzhou, but not ment of art, I need to think about others due to a brotherhood of artists. I’ve lived Both are important. My own artwork satis- here for more than 30 years. It is my home- but I do have to deal with other people in town. I know the city very well, the charac- a talented person. Institutional work, on the thefirst. sense With that my ownif I ceased artwork my it artwork is less so, there ters, the people. Guangzhou still has many otherfies my hand, own hasvanity; a meaning it reminds for theme wholethat I amof would be no means to continue running problems, but compared to Beijing, I prefer society. Video Bureau. Guangzhou. I may not be the perfect person for this kind of work. There are people that are Your institutional work [Libreria Borges/ What are the main differences between richer than me and more talented than me, Video Bureau] is almost entirely funded Guangzhou art and art in Beijing? but they did not choose this way. I chose this by the sale of your artwork. Is that in or- way. There is a larger market in Beijing. der to stay independent, or because of a Guangzhou is a large city, but it is quite far Sino Celeb Minding the Digital lack of funding from artistic bodies? Follow Video Bureau on WeChat (ID: videobureau) from the capital, so on the domain of cul- Rear Building 3, 84 Taikang Lu, near Mupai Xinjie, P28 P30 A part of the funding [for Video Bureau] is ture it still does not have a good location. Yuexiu District, Guangzhou. 广州越秀区泰康路84号后 provided by 5 Elements Art Association. It is Even though nowadays distance is not a 座3楼木排新街附近

26 | SZ | MAY 2018 | WWW.THATSMAGS.COM WWW.THATSMAGS.COM | MAY 2018| SZ | 27 [email protected]

WHAT’S NEW

From Fall Out Boy’s catchy club anthems to The Bilinda Butchers’ breathy dream pop, here’s the best of artists playing COLL AGE in the PRD this month. SINO CELEB COMING TO A THEATER NEAR YOU Edison Chen NGMTMRE, Slander - GUD VIBRATIONS To Western audiences, Edison Chen may Fall Out Boy - The Last of the Real Ones be best known (professionally, anyway) for his brief cameo alongside Morgan Freeman ByebyeNoise - 短路 [Short Circuit] The Dark Gong Li and Jet Li to Star in Mulan Remake Knight. For Chinese moviegoers, Chen was MAY MAY OneRepublic - Love Runs Out Disney’s live-action remake of Mulan gained some major star power last introducedin Christopher via Nolan’sa number 2008 of Hong film Kong 11 11 month after actors Jet Li and Gong Li joined the cast. The martial arts blockbusters, including Infernal Affairs, - 说句实话 icon (Shaolin Temple, Fist of Legend, Romeo Must Die) is in talks to play which was remade by Martin Scorsese in Lil.Jet [To Tell the Truth] Avengers: Infinity War Megan Leavey the emperor, who sets Hua Mulan’s story in motion by ordering the army 2006 and released as The Departed. With a cast that spans the entire Marvel universe Based on a true story, Megan Leavey fol- conscription of one male from every household. Powerhouse actress Chen, the son of a successful Hong A Finger -日落后 [After the Sunset] and makes for a very crowded movie poster, lows the title character, a young American Gong Li (Red Sorghum, Farewell My Concubine, Raise the Red Lantern, Kong businessman, was born in 1980 in Avengers: Infinity War sees the Avengers and Marine corporal deployed to Iraq, as she Memoirs of a Geisha), meanwhile, takes on an even more central role as Vancouver, Canada and spent his formative The Bilinda Butchers - Tulips the Guardians of the Galaxy team up to stop the develops a strong bond with Rex, the dog years there, before moving to Hong Kong at villain Thanos (Josh Brolin) from acquiring the she trains while working as a K9 handler. - the age of 19. 曹槽 - 北京以南 After a bomb wounds both of them and [South of Beijing] marya witch bad who’ll guy. serveThe two as theactors film’s join primary Liu Yifei villain. as Mulan Her androle Donnie is a departure Yen as Chen is also an established hip hop art- universe. The ensemble cast features 22 super- Leavey is sent home, she advocates for Rex herfrom mentor the 1998 Commander animated Tung,film, in another which Hunnew leadercharacter. Shan Directed Yu was theby New pri ist, although he is probably best known glob- heroes,Infinity includingStones and Iron using Man them (Robert to destroy Downey the to be taken out of combat so that she can Joshua Radin - Only You Zealander Niki Caro (Whale Rider ally for his numerous scandals. Jr.), Thor (Chris Hemsworth), the Hulk (Mark adopt him, reaching out to congressional August in China and New Zealand, with a release date of March 27, 2020. In January 2008, Chen was involved in a Ruffalo), the Black Widow (Scarlett Johansson), 余佳运 - 我想 [I Want] ), the film is set to begin shooting this sex scandal that swirled around an online leak Dr. Strange (Benedict Cumberbatch) and many New York Senator Chuck Schumer. Critics of hundreds of intimate photos of Chen with more. Black Panther heroes officials and eventually seeking- help from various female Asian celebrities, including T’Challa (Chadwick Boseman) and tional resonance. well-known actress and model Maggie Q. The his sister Shuri (Letitia Wright) praised the film for its emo incident shook Hong Kong’s entertainment will also appear. starring Chen on the Chinese mainland. industryAlthough and resulted the indecent in the imagesban of future were films HAO BU HAO released without the consent of Chen, re- proach in Hong Kong and resulted in the actor announcing that he would be stepping away from the Hong Kong Hao Amazon is reportedly in talks to adapt Liu Cixin’s Of course, that was not the case and entertainment industry “indefinitely.” The Three-Body Problem into a TV Chen returned to acting and music produc- series with a USD1 billion budget. Though the deal hasn’t tion two years after the highly-publicized acclaimed sci-fi trilogy scandal. Now 38 years old, Chen is also an run and allotting an extremely high budget in the hopes entrepreneur and fashion designer. been confirmed, the company is planning a three-season In a three-part Vice documentary titled The Life and Sex Scandal of Chinese Star and fantasyof creating books-turned-TV a watershed Chinese series, fromsci-fi Gamefranchise. of Thrones Given to Streetwear Icon Edison Chen (2015), the Thethe sustainedHandmaid’s success Tale, theover Amazon the past series decade could of sci-fi well andbe a Vancouverite likens himself to Paris Hilton major hit if it gets made. and states that he thanks those that hate him and lives to prove they are wrong. Bu Hao Kind of like: a male Just a few weeks after a March announcement by the Paris Hilton Chinese Football association that players cannot have Famous for: photo any tattoos visible during games (leading to a last- scandal, Hong Kong minute withdrawal from a match by heavily inked central streetwear brand defender Zhang Linpeng), the ban on tattoo culture has Clot spread to one of the nation’s biggest music festivals. The See him in: The Life outpost of Modern Sky’s Strawberry Festival and Sex Scandal of circulated a message prohibiting all musicians from Chinese Star and having visible tattoos onstage. The notice asked tattooed Streetwear Icon musicians to wear long sleeves, and suggested that those Edison Chen with ink on their neck and hands hide them with scarves, stickers and bandages.

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“A lot of designers looked to nature for inspiration, but now with digital tools they can produce more complex structures and generate a deeper understanding of nature, through design.”

and materials – is digitally generated,” Chen explains, “but also the fabrication” thanks to robots that assembled the piece. Elsewhere it feels like the artist is the machine’s assistant, as with ‘Kaleidome.’ The LAAB artists took the shape of a half-sphere and used computers to divide it into irregular cells. Then, with precise measurements and painstaking craft, the artists cut and bent metal to the appropriate shapes to build what their algorithms had wrought. The effect,

also sets our minds to wonder how else our convenientbeautiful as machines it reflects area shifting adding array to our of work. lights, Some – like a series of instruments from Meng Qi or the hologram cast upon fog that range of yet-unimagined technology. And in Others, like the ‘PolyThread’ canopy that opens their inaugural exhibit, the Design Society – the thebursts exhibit, to flame cast when our minds touched to contemplation. – are playful fun. MINDING THE DIGITAL team in charge of art curation for – The alien canopy envelops us as we enter, brings us something like Internet+Art. with lighting that simulates the shift from Visions of Our Future at the Sea World Culture and Arts Center The main unifying thread of the exhibit is night to day refracted through the threads. By Adam Robbins digitalization, thought it appears in radically As with the dome, the shape is inspired by different ways. cell structures, with computers devising the “A lot of designers looked to nature for in- shapes and stitching them with another ma- n the dim heart of the space, an orb glows Curator Carrie Chan tells us. “We don’t want connected, constantly online.” WeChat ap- spiration,” Chan explains, but now “with digital silently. Watch carefully enough and you to just celebrate [digitalization], but we want peared in 2011 and achieved ubiquity in 2013 tools they can produce more complex struc- lingering token of the human touch. - along with the rest of the BAT trifecta. Ofo took tures... and generate a deeper understanding I chine.“Th[is] There’s spirit some of digitalization hand stitching that’s as well; adapt a - those reminiscent of water, or earth or wood stands how we feel? That’s why it’s important to the streets in 2014 and Mobike the follow- of nature, though design.” ing [to newly invented technologies] really or metal.can track Emerge the shift from of the colors shadowy evoking corners fire to peopleto share to this reflect. and representIs it scary ifthe a lampfeelings under of the ing year. “Especially 3D rendering and manufac- represents the spirit of the times we’re in,” of the room and the orb notices, changing the digital era.” “After 2015,” Chan notes, “the Chinese gov- Chan tells us. “We’re constantly surrounded by swirl of light as you approach or retreat. It’s With “digitalization” Chan means “how the ernment echoed this phenomenon with poli- to achieve without digital technology.” That’s all these changes. From inside [‘PolyThread’] watching. And in its inscrutable way, it’s com- widespread integration of technology is shap- cies that celebrated this change: ‘Internet+’. clearturing,” in Tangthe displays adds. “Those of elaborate are very fashion difficult that you can feel all around you it’s changing.” municating. ing our lives through art, design and... a certain would make Lady Gaga blush. Even more so in When you emerge, the world is a little bit ‘Anima II’ – from the Latin for ‘spirit’ – is domination of [our] thinking about life.” With Internet+ was the buzzword of 2015’s two ‘Research Pavilion 2013-2014.’ different. Some cutting-edge app or device or one of dozens of cutting edge works of art the exhibit, on display until June 3, “it’s not politicalThese were sessions, the two with defining Premier moments.” Li Keqiang In that multi-layered room of curved algorithm has just emerged, about to change all on display at the Sea World Culture and Arts just about the invisible but about the tangible.” calling for China to integrate IT, big data, spaces, designers looked to the beetle for in- our lives once again. But maybe, with the engag- Center. In Minding the Digital, the center’s They mark the beginning of the era as cloud computing and the ‘Internet of Things’ spiration. Inspecting the complex structure of ing works of Minding the Digital, you’ll better inaugural exhibit seeks to stretch our under- 2009, when third generation (3G) mobile into every aspect of the nation’s economy. their elytra (the hard shell protecting delicate understand how it can all work together. standing of what our newly-crafted world can Internet+Finance, Internet+Agriculture, wings) the artists envisioned how to build do, to help our thinking catch up with what’s quickly emerging as the ubiquitous mobile Internet+Medicine: it’s part of what drives such a complex structure themselves. With the phone networks were first approved in China, Open daily through June 3, 10am-10pm. For details already begun. network we know, explains Assistant Curator Shenzhen to invest in labs for Nobel scientists, help of digital friends, of course. about the curator-guided tour on May 20 or the “It’s a bit spooky in its dark space,” Senior Tang Siyun. After that, “everyone is staying to create new cures and new products with a “Not just the physicality – the shape closing party, visit designsociety.cn.

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String Quartet Concert by the Ensemble Philéas FESTIVAL CROISEMENTS 2018 Classical Music Ensemble Philéas, composed of musicians Celebrating the Best of French Culture in the PRD from Radio France orchestras and lead- By Matthew Bossons ing French soloists, was started by Vincent Dormieu. Audience members at this concert can expect four talented musicians delivering he cultural exports of a France eMotion Visual Arts a “rich and demanding repertoire,” according to festival organizers. Ensemble Philéas, like country are, in many ways, A collaboration between Atout France and the Institut Français, France eMotion, le voyage many of the other artists included in this sto- the face it shows to the world animé aims to “make French cultural tourism a worldwide experience.” The exhibition sits Music Day Concerts ry, will be paying homage to Claude Debussy and France has not been shy comfortably at the junction between AR, animation and photography and takes observers Enjoy two days of free concerts in Shunde by presenting ‘Quartet in G Minor Op. 10,’ the Tin sharing its diversity, arts and on a digital journey to 35 of France’s great cultural landmarks, including the Château de on June 16 and 17, including performances French master’s only quartet composition. celebrated culinary prowess with Chambord and Mont-Saint-Michel, among others. by electric party-pop group Pony Pony Run Run and pop band Colours in the Street, both people around the globe. In the Sun Jun 3, 8pm. Xinghai Concert Hall, 33 Qingbo Apr 27-May 9; free entry. The Canton Place, Haifeng Lu, Zhujiang Xincheng, Tianhe District, Guangzhou Lu, Ersha Island, Yuexiu District, Guangzhou 广州市越 from France. Pony Pony Run Run is notable PRC, we are able to celebrate the 广州市天河区珠江新城海风路广粤天地 (020-3837 1338) 秀区二沙岛晴波路33号星海音乐厅 (020-8735 3869) for their catchy fusion of British indie rock very best of France each year with Concert de l'Orchestre and ’90s dance music, which together creates May 18-Jun 17; free entry. Canton First Estate, 333 Golf Road, Nanhai High-tech Industrial Development Festival Croisements: a showcase Tue Jun 5, 8pm. Shunde Performing Arts Centre, 6 a symphony of energetic electro-pop that will Zone, Foshan 佛山市南海区高尔夫路333号广佛新世界 (0757-8177 8888) Symphonique de of talented musicians, French films, Bishui Lu, Shunde Qu, Foshan 佛山市顺德新城区碧水路 have everyone moving their hips and feet. At award-winning exhibits and theater Guangzhou Classical Music 顺德表演艺术中心 barely 20 years old, the members of Colours and dance ensembles. Internationally recognized virtuoso album and have made waves in the French Now in its 13th year, the 2018 pianist Jean-Yves Thibaudet is coming to musicalin the Street scene have with already their vibrant released pop their tunes. first Guangzhou’s Xinghai Concert Hall on May 12. Festival Croisements began on April In addition, four Chinese musical groups Thibaudet currently splits his time between 24 and will run until June 24 in 30 will also hit the stage over the course of the France and the United States and will be in Chinese cities. Below, we take a weekend: hey! lily! (黑莉莉), lure (诱导社), Guangzhou to perform a commemoration Groovers (菊花合唱团) and Mercader (梅卡 look at a selection of the festival’s concert for the centenary of the death of cel- 德尔). fantastique events happening ebrated French composer Claude Debussy. across the Pearl River Delta. Jun 16-17, 7.30-11pm; free entry. Park Sat May 12, 8pm. Xinghai Concert Hall, 33 Qingbo Shunfengshan, Nanguo Dong Lu, Daliang, Shunde, Lu, Ersha Island, Yuexiu District, Guangzhou 广州市越 Foshan 佛山市顺德大良南国东路顺丰山公园 秀区二沙岛晴波路33号星海音乐厅 (020-8735 3869) Les Habits de la Lune Opus 7 Circus The seven artists that make up Performance Opus 7 deliver a performance Forecasting Performance Debussymania Classical Music that is a strange yet wonderful Director Laurent Laffargue’s new visual To mark 100 years since the death of French composer Claude combination of circus mayhem poem, which was co-written with Frédéric to establish a unique storytelling framework. Here is how it works: a Debussy, Debussymania will see two talented French pianists, Hugues and marching band magic. This Kristiansson, is a diverse mismatch of op- performerThis eclectic manipulates performance a laptop uses YouTube to show videosfootage as from a fiction YouTube trigger that Leclère and Jean-François Zygel, perform well-known Debussy pieces group is able to deliver a comi- era, theater, fashion, dance and cinema. Les in both solo and duet improvisations. This must-see (or more appro- cal and festive atmosphere with Habits de la Lune tells an impossible love performer interacts with the moving 2D images to create a “dizzy priately: must-hear) concert is intended to introduce Chinese audi- their unique musical repertoire, story between the Moon and the Sun, with hybridhas been experience,” specially selected according to meetto festival “the humanorganizers. size scale”;Forecasting next thewas ences to the magic of Debussy’s music and celebrate the man, who which sits somewhere “between the former refusing a thousand stars to re- honored with the ‘Special Jury Prize’ at the 56th Mess Festival in Balkans music and American place the latter. Sarajevo. 19th and early 20th centuries. big-band jazz.” Opus 7 will has been hailed as one of the most significant composers of the late Jun 19-20, 8pm. Shenzhen Grand Theater, 5018 engage and impress audience Tue Jun 16, 4.30pm; free entry. Design Society 1, Sea World Culture & Art Fri May 25, 8pm. Xinghai Concert Hall, 33 Qingbo Lu, Ersha Island, Yuexiu Shennan Dong Lu, , Shenzhen 深圳市罗 members of all ages. Center, 1187 Wanghai Lu, , Nanshan District, Shenzhen 深圳市南山区蛇 District, Guangzhou 广州市越秀区二沙岛晴波路33号星海音乐厅 (020-8735 3869) 湖区深南东路5018号深圳大剧院 (0755-2590 6000) 口望海路1187号海上世界文化艺术中心 (0755-2162 5455) May 5-6, 4:30pm; free entry. Design Society 1, Sea World Culture & Art Center, 1187 Wanghai Lu, Shekou, Nanshan District, Shenzhen 深圳市南 山区蛇口望海路1187号海上世界文化艺 术中心 (0755-2162 5455)

32 | SZ | MAY 2018 | WWW.THATSMAGS.COM WWW.THATSMAGS.COM | MAY 2018| SZ | 33 34 35 Cover Story ON TIDES OF CHANGE Cover Story

The Uncertain Future of China’s Boat Dwellers Text by Daniel Plafker with additional reporting and images by Tristin Zhang

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here’s seven things that a Tanka lives unique, river-bound culture across the and dies by,” Lin Hongyang tells us. The tides of time. old man’s back is to the village’s narrow rows of modest houses. His eyes fix on a Professor He Jiaxiang, a researcher at point beyond the muddy riverbank that Sun Yat-sen University, has studied forms their doorstep, past the line of Guangdong’s Tanka communities battered wooden fishing boats that bob for nearly two decades. He tells us in its ebb, across the quick and murky that prior to the establishment of the waters of the coursing Bei River and People’s Republic, there were several towards the distant shore. hundred thousand such people living on the province’s bays and rivers. Here, “T“The weather,” he starts to intone, as well as in Fujian and Hainan, both “including the skies and tides; the place of which still contain significant Tanka he works – its geography and water communities, these boat-dwelling quality; the tools of the trade, be they fisherfolk have constituted a sort of boat, nets or engine; his diligence; his segregated sub-caste for countless boldness; his skill; and,” perhaps most generations. importantly, “his luck.” The origin story of the culture remains Looking around the garbage-strewn as murky as the waters that give it stretch of waterfront in northern life. But Professor He agrees with the Foshan, where Shuishang Village sits, prevailing view that the Tanka people it’s hard to say whether Tanka people’s were descended from the ancient Yue luck might be starting to run out. inhabitants of today’s South China, later banished to boats by Han invaders. “We Lin, the tall, thin, aged man who can probably regard the Tanka people recites the ‘seven words’ from memory, as the aboriginals – or the first settlers My children have already left to find work elsewhere. They come is certainly one of the fortunate ones. anyway – of this piece of land. That is, of Though born to a fishing family, Lin course, until immigrants came from the back once a year to help but otherwise the youth here are few. managed to become one of the few north,” Professor He explains. Tanka of his generation to receive a formal education, ultimately securing “The newcomers later divided the land framework for their formal economic which is used in this English text after the river is somewhere Tanka people work as an English teacher at a nearby of Guangdong into three parts. One marginalization, but the exile of Tanka much critical reflection, began to fall are from rather than a place they were rural middle school. Together with part was to be inhabited by the so- life to the waterways proved deep-rooted into question. “The term Tanka can displaced to. the proverbial ‘seven words,’ he is also called Guangfuren – the most powerful with farming, education and marriage really be considered quite derogatory,” able to recite surprisingly true-to-form immigrants from the north who actually to outside groups remaining beyond Professor He points out, noting centuries But despite these semantic debates English translations of decades-old established and still inhabit the city and reach for most, especially in Cantonese- of stigma. “Many prefer the more neutral and impressive material gains, the speeches by Chairman Mao. area of Guangzhou. Another part went to speaking areas. term shuishangren, which simply means post-liberation improvement in Tanka the Chaoshanren, or Teochew people of ‘people on the water.’” people’s lot only went so far. Many But despite Lin’s impressive career the east. And still another part went to Like many of China’s poor and were left behind, cultural prejudices in village linguistics and countryside the Hakka. The aboriginals, who we now dispossessed, the material conditions While this latter term emphasizes remained entrenched and, partly due education, his boat has always remained know as the Tanka people, actually did of the Tanka people began to improve Tanka people’s humanity and is widely to not receiving official recognition as close at hand. not get a share. They were marginalized dramatically following Liberation in accepted in Hong Kong, it is not in an ethnic minority group under the in this process of resettlement.” 1949. Thousands were resettled into common use on the Chinese mainland government’s sanctioned taxonomy, the Said boat, along with several dozen land-based housing, communities and is ultimately too generic to capture rich water-faring culture, cultivated others, sits hauled up on the deep mud Whatever their precise origins, the were targeted for health and literacy the regional and cultural specificity of over centuries of boat-bound life, with more floating just offshore. The lives of countless generations of Tanka programs and new opportunities were these unique communities. Meanwhile, was given no institutional outlet for distinctive wooden craft has long been people has been colored by hardship, made for participation in fields of as Professor He points out, by fixedly expression or preservation and has, in the defining article of Tanka life, a poverty, stigma and social exclusion. economic production outside of fishing. associating Tanka people with the some places, faded. symbolic and literal vessel that has for Modest reforms in the early 18th watery realm, shuishangren implies centuries contained and carried their century abolished some of the legal Even the name ‘Tanka,’ a fraught term, a lack of belonging on the land; as if MAY 2018 MAY 2018 38 39 Cover Story Cover Story

Today, the community is facing yet land, Chen hoped to secure a better not easy to keep up with Chen’s hasty another period of flux and transformation. education for his grandchildren. Prone to shuffle. Though thousands continue to call gummy smiles, the muscular grandfather the river home, fish populations have appears to be taking the move in stride. His wiry, white-haired wife pulls up the collapsed across the province in the face rear, heavy axe still in hand. Once we of industrial pollution and overfishing. The boat he is painting was bought then for are safe and settled under the roof the For the younger generation of Tanka RMB300 – part of a downsize to a smaller family’s modest, landbound home, a not- people, who have had the benefit of vessel since his housing was otherwise so-well-kept secret about Tanka economic basic education and some knowledge accounted for. Today, the same craft would life quickly emerges. of Mandarin, the grueling, dirty, sell for 10 times that price – and it’s not the cramped conditions of fishing work is an only costs that have skyrocketed in Tanka- For the second time in as many hours, increasingly unattractive prospect. Like country in recent years. we hear that in the face of the tightening so many of their rural peers elsewhere in profit margins, rising cost of living and the country, they are moving in droves “The government pays us RMB9 a day falling fish populations, some in the to heed the clarion call of migrant wage per person during the enforced fishing community are turning to poaching labor, leaving behind the lines and nets ban to compensate for our lost income, during the fishing ban as a way of of their parents’ fishing boats for the but it’s not nearly enough.” On top of making ends meet. factory lines and internet of the Pearl this, Chen’s family gets an additional River Delta’s sprawling metropolises. RMB800 a year in diesel fuel subsidies, “They go out at night,” Chen says Adrift on a sum that varies greatly based on boat- between drags of a slightly damp Back on the riverbank in Shuishang size and engine power. cigarette. “They electrocute the fish with Village, though, it’s clear that this special equipment, then scoop them migratory vanishing act is not an option “Of my four sons,” Chen tells us as a light up quickly with nets.” This method of for everybody. We meet Chen Azai while rain begins to fall, “only two have decided fishing is illegal any time of year, and Troubled he is painting his boat. At 83 years old to stay on boats and continue the fishing criminally so during the fishing ban. If and 5 feet tall, the man’s dark, lined face tradition. The rest have left the area to caught, poachers will have their nets and cuts a sharp silhouette against the grey find work elsewhere. There are fewer and boats confiscated, a devastating blow to of the gathering clouds. A lifetime of fewer fish than before, it’s not as easy to a Tanka fisherman. Elsewhere in the fishing work has left its mark on his well- make a living.” village we hear of steep fines and even Waters worn body. He’s the kind of man that’s prison labor sentences imposed. unlikely to maneuver for a late-in-life Adding to difficulties, subsidies and lost- career change. income compensation are not paid out Because electro-poaching doesn’t till the end of the ban period, leaving discriminate between valuable big The annual four-month springtime families to rely on savings in the interim. fish and unsellable small ones – not to fishing ban, introduced less than a “We sell what we can to the wet markets mention killing off countless mothers decade ago to try to manage the rapidly and wholesalers,” Chen explains. Tanka before they have the chance to spawn, diminishing fish population by giving boats have an area of the hull where it can decimate fish populations and the creatures a chance to spawn without holes are drilled so fish can be kept alive speed the spiral of ecosystem collapse harassment, has just begun and the in transit. “What we can’t, we dry and that drives some Tanka fisherfolk to the villagers can be seen in force on the eat ourselves during the ban.” Chickens practice in the first place. It’s no wonder beach, mending their nets, patching and ducks that forage on the bank that Chen’s sons, and so many others like their hulls and oiling the boards of their supplement the local diet and income but them, have chosen to leave these odds wooden boats to keep out rot. Not far Tankas have rarely turned to farming. behind to try their all-important Tanka from Chen and his bucket of bright blue luck elsewhere. paint, his wife chops wood with a ferocity The steady drizzle that has been falling that belies her advanced years. on our heads while we talk has turned We leave Shuishang Village and head to full downpour but the busy people on north, bumping along winding riverbank The pair have plied the waters of the Bei the beach appear unfazed, continuing roads with questions knocking River for as long as they’ve lived. “I was their work of mending and maintenance. against each other in our heads. With born on boats,” the old man tells us in a “We’re used to working in all weather,” collapsing fish populations and a rapidly toothless Cantonese. “I’ve been fishing our happy companion shrugs. Finally modernizing regional economy, how ever since I was teenager, nearly every though, the rain becomes too heavy to viable is the old life for Tanka people day for more than 60 years.” ignore and we hurriedly help Chen cover who continue to eke out a boat-bound his half painted boat with a plastic tarp living? For younger Tanka abandoning Chen and his wife came here a decade before beating a hasty retreat to the ship for work in China’s low-end ago from Lubao, about 30 kilometers couple’s brick-and-mortar home. The labor market, what chance is there upriver. By leaving that floating narrow lanes of the shoreside village are for meaningful ties to their ancient community behind for a house on dry now veritable rivers of their own and it’s riverbound heritage?

MAY 2018 MAY 2018 40 41 Cover Story Cover Story

We hope the town of Datang can offer some cramped and the work is hard. answers. This midsized township seat, not far from the border with Qingyuan prefecture, “My children have already left to find work appears no different from any other rural hub. elsewhere,” he states frankly. “They come back Dingy restaurants, sleepy hardware stores once a year to help me with the busiest part of Shifting Currents and a noisy market give way to tightly packed the fishing season but otherwise the youth here brick houses which, in turn, end abruptly at are few.” Lin says he hopes his grandchildren fields of wandering water buffalo. Beyond, will get a good enough education to be able to the land slopes gently towards a high earthen avoid this kind of work altogether. embankment, erected to keep the river, and all that it contains, safely at bay. His understandable desires highlight a challenging dilemma for the waterbound It’s a poignant dividing line and the symbolism culture’s survival. Though widespread and is hard to miss, because when this grassy berm ancient, the Tanka way of life lacks official is crested more than 200 wooden boats and recognition as an ethnic nationality and the Tanka cooking fires come into view. associated benefits that come with it. Though the traditions and customs of Tanka life are The Datang community is one of the region’s rich and varied, they are also tied very closely largest and, unlike in Shuishang, the families to fishing as a field of economic production and here have no house but their watercraft. The the houseboat as a place of dwelling. When modest wooden boats bob in tight clusters like a young Tanka person leaves these things floating relics of another century while cars behind, and assimilates into a land-dwelling zipping overhead on a modern freeway bridge life (the lack of a distinct language or dialect, and a steady stream of passing steel freighters in contrast to other Guangdong subcultures, strike a strange anachronistic contrast. makes this more possible), what is there to stop her from leaving her Tanka identity Here, too, the seasonal fishing ban is in full behind, too? effect, and the long sandy beach remains a hive of activity. Wicker baskets and woven Centuries of stigma and discrimination make traps are sifted for clams and river snails; many reluctant to volunteer their Tanka speedy, sunbrowned fingers fly through folds heritage when entering the formalized of netting, checking for tears; gas generators workforce. Even Henry Fok, a billionaire and sputter; welders straddle overturned boats, politician ranked by Forbes as Hong Kong’s scattering sparks; steam rises from countless ninth richest tycoon, only rarely admitted to pots as evening meals are prepared and dogs humble Tanka beginnings. and chickens root among the sand and pebbles. One young student we met on our journey On the far end of the beach we find another along the Bei River, two generations removed Mr. Lin (no relation) squatting by the from fishing life, thought of his grandfather waterline aside his dissembled engine block, as Tanka but not himself. As the Pearl hands coated in motor oil. Though approaching River Delta continues its march from global middle age, he’s one of the younger fishermen manufacturing hub to future-tech megalopolis, still living full time in this floating community. it’s easy to see this well-worn patch of the region’s cultural fabric fading away altogether. “Very few people under the age 40 have stayed in Datang to make their living as fisherfolk,” the busy man tells us. Lin holds our gaze casually while he speaks but the flying wrench We can regard the in his hand doesn’t slow for an instant. “It’s better to have a job in the city – the income is Tanka people as the more stable, the conditions are safer and you have better access to services.” aboriginals of this It’s easy to see what he means. The scream of a nearby generator provides some of the floating piece of land – or the homes with electricity, (the price of gas is a constant source of conversation) and children first settlers, anyway can row to a nearby school, but lodging is

MAY 2018 MAY 2018 42 43 Cover Story Cover Story

Finding Safe Harbor

The story of the Hong Kong’s Tanka harbors. The community fell upon an transportation is close at hand and the community may offer some solutions to unlikely solution: tourism. harbor-dwelling generation is able to the dilemmas of those on the mainland. live in sanitary, dignified conditions As in other Cantonese-speaking areas, Today, the quaint wooden houseboats of without having to choose between the lives of Hong Kong’s Tanka people Hong Kong are more closely associated abandoning their children or heritage. were long characterized by stigma, by the land-dwelling class with pleasant Meanwhile, art-installations in the poverty and exclusion from land- weekend cruises and floating seafood vicinity pay tribute to Tanka culture based life. Their position in the island’s lunches than insurgent leftist militancy rather than sweeping it under the rug. harbors, however, made them some and tight-packed squalor. It feels like a positive model for a of the first local people the British balanced transition to a new mode of colonizers encountered and their Zhu Yanping, a lifelong resident of her economic participation that doesn’t profound alienation from their shore- houseboat in Aberdeen on the island’s require cultural traditions be thrown dwelling neighbors made some more southern coast, has even managed to overboard. But Professor He warns of than happy to profit from collaboration learn Mandarin from ferrying mainland the pitfalls of ‘Disneyfication,’ cautioning with the European newcomers. Many tourists across the narrow strait to Ap against the lure of packaging a culture accounts indicate that, due to alleged Lei Chau. She’s visited distant relatives into easily digestible performances that unwillingness on the part of mainstream in Tanka communities in various parts can be consumed by curious tourists. Cantonese prostitutes to service foreign of Guangdong and recognizes that Hong patrons, Tanka women enjoyed a near- Kong’s Tanka live a very different way “Nowadays, in and in other monopoly on sex work with Hong Kong’s of life. areas here in Guangdong you can find Westerners throughout the 19th century. a kind of a rehearsed version of the Some maintain that this preference was “Shuishangren on the mainland,” Zhu traditional way of life, demonstrated in so strong that many of the territory’s tells us, using Hong Kong’s preferred a touristic way. You can listen to songs ‘Eurasian’ population today are the term, “are mostly making a living as that are alleged to be sung by Tanka product of these early commercial fisherfolk. Here in Hong Kong, many of people. I really sense a kind of danger encounters. us are now using our boats for tourism. in this; in the commercialization or We park our boats here and, all day commodification of traditions.” Despite these enterprising adaptations, long, we try to recruit tourists to come conditions remained poor in Hong Kong’s aboard for tours of the harbor. That’s While there are more promising and ‘floating villages’ and, through much been our business since I was young: optimistic examples of adaptation to a of the 20th century, low literacy, poor ferrying tourists. We’ve never once touristic economy, namely restaurants health and overcrowding continued to gone out to sea for fishing.” The modest and other food-related initiatives that plague the community. As maritime rowing vessel received an engine when center fishing as a traditional practice regulations grew tighter and the fishing Zhu, now 66, was still a muscular while bringing higher value to its industry became increasingly formalized, youth. Both she and her sister promptly output, Professor He’s concerns seem Hong Kong’s government began to corral obtained pilots’ licenses. The community well-founded. Indeed, the difficulties Tanka households behind newly erected here is one that’s used to moving with in reconciling cultural preservation they were always on the move, and they difficult to imagine traditional Tanka ever. Tanka people continue to give ‘typhoon shelters’ to keep them off the the times. with ongoing economic viability may were not easy to control. Their traditional culture flourishing in an undiluted way up the tools of their trade, selling or seas. In the 1960s and 1970s militant come down to something even more way of life was actually in sharp contrast in the years to come. abandoning boats and nets for new political movements, Catholic missionary Zhu’s children moved ashore at the first fundamental. to the dominant forces at that time.” work in the new economy, while the Thinking back to Lin Hongyang’s ‘seven work and infectious disease alike found opportunity and now have families of all-important skills of the fishing While agriculture is no longer as central words’ on the riverbank, it’s striking fertile ground in these aquatic ghettos. their own. “They’ve all been educated,” “Tanka people’s marginalization,” the profession find few inheritors in the to China’s society, it’s certainly true how many of the old standbys are fading she explains, “it’s what we want for the professor explains “can be traced back younger generation. It seems that the Hong Kong’s Tanka people needed a way next generation, we want them to go to the traditional emphasis placed on that an untethered, difficult to control fast. The previously reliable weather future of the Tanka people will have to make a living outside of fishing that ashore and at least see what it’s like.” agriculture. In the long past, agriculture population is neither desirable nor is, in the age of cataclysmic climate to rely on the remaining three: their was still rooted to their heritage and But her landlubbing sons still visit meant stability, immobility. And the particularly profitable for the dominant change, no longer so predictable. The deep connection to the region’s bays and their mother’s boat frequently. Public Tanka people went from place to place, forces in China today. Unless these waterways, after damming and ongoing diligence, their boldness, and – perhaps contradictions can be resolved, it’s pollution, are less recognizable than more than anything – their luck.

MAY 2018 MAY 2018 FEATURE MAKING A SPLASH COMM Meet the Folks Working to Save Shenzhen’s Coral Reefs By Matthew Bossons UNITY

Dirty Dancing Shenzhen salsa beginner classes, p46

n preparation for writing this story, we Iasked friends, family and colleagues to conducted an unscientific survey and thinking about the waters off the Pearl River Delta.share theWe firstreceived word a thatvariety came of toanswers: mind when the most commonly mentioned word was ‘pol- luted,’ followed by ‘dirty,’ though on a more positive note, ‘dolphins’ made an appear- ance in the mix.

that the waters off our coast suffer from pollution,There bothis definitely industrial truth and to otherwise. the notion Particularly troubling is the sheer amount of plastic that has found its way from the megalopolises of the Pearl River Delta into time coral conservation and restoration pro- - the ocean. According to a recent article by gram worker with Dive for Love. In 2017, the men and boaters in the area from dropping South China Morning Post, participants in the organization removed 225 kilograms of trash anchornow volunteer into the as coral guards nursery. to prevent fisher esteemed Volvo Ocean Race – which passed from the sea over the course of six cleanups. If you too would like to get involved through the region earlier this year – were “Coral restoration and conservation is the with Dive for Love, we should note that vol- main focus of Dive4Love’s work,” Zhou told unteers are welcome, although underwater could be found. That’s via email. “It is observed that with the helpers are required to have a scuba diving surprisedFloating how rubbish far from combined land floating with unsusjunk - restoration of the coral community, marine life also recovers with increased diversity.” activities and the occasional typhoon, has In addition to underwater cleanup ef- Learncertification. more about Dive for Love on WeChat (ID: puttainable our region’s fishing methods,coral reefs land – which reclamation are in forts, Dive for Love places importance on dive4love) many regards the backbone of the marine community education, which is achieved ecosystem – under threat. through the Dive for Love Classroom At the forefront of the effort to protect Training Program. The initiative aims to Shenzhen’s reefs is Dive for Love, an organi- raise awareness among Dapeng’s students zation initiated in 2012 by Doyouhike.com about the importance of marine protection with support from local dive enthusiasts and and has been rolled out district-wide in both the government of Dapeng District. Formally primary and secondary schools. Last year registered under the name Shenzhen alone, 70 instructors delivered 130 classes Dapeng Coral Conservation Volunteer to over 6,500 students. Federation in 2014, the group undertakes a Another aspect of Dive for Love’s com- number of initiatives aimed at protecting the munity outreach involves engaging with city’s coastal ecosystem and raising public awareness about the plight of Shenzhen’s to protect the marine ecosystem on which reefs. theylocal relyfisherman to for their in an living. effort to motivate them Most notable of the group’s projects is “Dive for Love constantly helps and the coral conservation station in Da’ao Bay, where fragments of broken – but still liv- ecosystems via transforming traditional motivates local fishermen to protect coastal- and attached to a coral nursery, where they tices,” said Zhou. Take Five TCM Goes Menstrual caning –recover. coral are Dive collected for Love from also the works ocean to floorrid fishing methods into more sustainable prac P47 P48 Shenzhen’s reefs of garbage and abandoned the volunteer ranks of Dive for Love. Some of the fisherfolk have even joined

fishing nets, according to Zhou Yan, a part- According to Zhou, six Shenzhen fishermen 44 | SZ | MAY 2018 | WWW.THATSMAGS.COM WWW.THATSMAGS.COM | MAY 2018 | SZ | 45 [email protected]

TAKE FIVE COMM Lessons from the Frontlines of Hospitality AROUND TOWN Richard Liu is a man who knows hospitality. The our promotions rapidly, but social media can industry veteran has worked at all levels of the also be destructive. Take the recent viral report tough and competitive hotel business – from UNITY bellhop to general manager – and has learned We have to make use of these tools but also be a thing or two along the way. Now, having ar- sureon the to bad always hygiene put our of China’s best face five-star forward. hotels. rived as the new GM of DoubleTree by Hilton DEAR JAMIE SOCIAL SKILLS - If you go to a hotel as a guest, what’s the nado is hoping to draw on a lifetime of experi- most important element you pay attention Sitting the Month Shenzhen Salsa Beginner Classes enceGuangzhou, to leave this his mastermark on hotelier one of theand city’s tea aficio most to? coveted accommodations. We sat down with Liu It depends on the purpose of my trip. Hygiene, to get his two cents on challenging guests, social Dear Jamie, privacy and detailed service are fundamental. media and going the extra mile. I’m an overseas Chinese man who If it’s a business hotel, executive facilities come was born and raised in Los Angeles and - shopping street – Beijing Lu. It’s very conveni- What is the most difficult guest situation moved back to China only two years ent for our guests to experience local customs, that you have had to deal with? ago. I now live in with my wife, first; for a resort hotel, facilities tailored for chil which is a priority for many of them. whose family all live together with us, From my standpoint as a hospitality employee, Whatdren become does it a takesignificant to be priority.successful in the - hospitality business? child. situation. It’s how you cope with these situa- It’s Secondly, no surprise it’s awe fitting stay hotelbusy –for throughout the area, deliv the and Itwe is arean excitingcurrently time expecting to say theour least, first tionsthere’s that no matters.such thing Through as ‘the solvingmost difficult’ problems guest yearering we’ve five-star seen service a 90 percent that isn’t room too over-the-top.occupancy but there is one minor issue: my wife’s for hotel guests, you will earn their loyalty and rate. WhatDiligence, is it sacrifice that makes and a yourwillingness current to learn. family is very traditional and are insist- even friendship. Finally, DoubleTree by Hilton Guangzhou of- employer, Doubletree by Hilton Hotel ing that she not wash for a full month fers a unique personal touch with meticulous at- Guangzhou, really stand out? How do you view social media's role in the tention to detail, whether it’s our well-received extremely repulsive and have broached hospitality industry? First of all, it’s the location of the hotel being in welcome cookie or our xiguan-inspired confer- thefollowing subject our with child’s my wife, birth. who I find has this re- the heart of old Guangzhou, where different as- ence room. Social media is a double-edged sword for the peatedly shut me down. pects of traditional Cantonese culture converge. hotel industry. On the one hand, it lets us spread I need to make it clear to her that We’re also in close proximity to the popular Responses have been edited for clarity and length. not showering for a month is not an op- tion and that I don’t want to share a bed with someone actively accumulating a month’s worth of BO. What should I do? -Repulsed in Huizhou

Dear Repulsed, It was a love of salsa that brought French expat Patrice Guillemound to teach his curious friends It’s a clash of cultures, a battle of the in early 2017. What started as casual bi-weekly dance lessons grew as friends of friends joined baths! You, sir, might be sh*t out of luck: your wife’s body ultimately belongs to picture. her, and as such, you really can’t force the flock.But before Then leaving,Guillemound’s he brought wife Oswaldogave birth Loor to their into childthe picture. and their The teacher Ecuador flew native out nowof the her to shower if she doesn’t want to. runs the group, with a rotating pool of teachers: Adrian Esquivel and Amga Gamboa (both When your child is born, your wife Colombian), Daniel Canosa (Spanish) and Jenny Wu (Chinese). will’ve been carrying said child inside “All of them are really good dancers and very patient to teach beginners,” Loor tells us. As her body for nine months and if she the name makes clear, the Sunday classes are open to everyone who wants to learn salsa – or doesn’t want to shower I’d recommend other Latin dances like bachata and kizomba – in a judgment-free space where participants can sucking it up and supporting her deci- stumble toward more elegant heights. sion. “When I started learning salsa,” Loor reminisces with a laugh, “I was so bad! The teacher I realize this is probably not the asked me to come earlier for extra lessons. So there we were, dancing in a club with all these answer you were looking for, so I’ll of- people watching me dance with this guy, when I was supposed to be dancing with a girl. It was fer another suggestion: maybe try and so embarrassing!” compromise with her. Instead of insist- ing she shower, maybe point out that a partner of the preferred gender on hand to practice. Of course it’s best to bring a partner of many Chinese women nowadays refrain But those looking to add more salsa to their life shouldn’t worry; there should usually be from washing their hair during the post- “Usually people come alone or with a friend of the same gender,” Loor explains, “so it’s a partum month, while still washing their greatyour own place – forit’s meetingeasier to new master friends.” the steps that way – but most people find a new one each time. bodies. Just a thought, and congrats on Athletic shoes and comfortable clothing are all you need for the outdoor practice in Civic the little one! Center, every Sunday 2-4pm. Join them any given Sunday … at least until the weather gets too -Jamie hot for anyone to enjoy.

Smells a-brewing and trouble a-stew- To join, connect on WeChat (ID ‘osloor’) to join the WeChat group where the group exchanges info about ing? Email [email protected]. classes, upcoming parties and about salsa festivals in other cities or abroad.

46 | SZ | MAY 2018 | WWW.THATSMAGS.COM WWW.THATSMAGS.COM | MAY 2018 | SZ | 47 COMMUNITY | HEALTH EDUCATION | COMMUNITY DEGREE DEVALUATION CHINESE MEDICINE GOES MENSTRUAL A University Education May No Longer Guarantee Success A Personalized Approach to Women’s Health By Lena Gidwani By Jonathan Hanlon

raditional Chinese medicine infertility, menopausal hot flashes or quality of your pain? What about your (TCM), the contemporary use of the physical and emotional challenges current digestive function, emotional Thistoric healing treatments de- that arise from pregnancy, women’s health and sleep quality? When applied veloped in China over several millennia, health challenges can come from in this complete context, TCM has the is often dismissed in the West as eso- plethora of sources. Because it seeks to power to offer effective outcomes with teric or the stuff of hokey superstition. treat the root causes of medical disor- lasting benefits. In China however, this complete medi- der rather than merely ease symptoms, TCM approaches are natural, safe, cal system, which is flexible enough TCM has a good track record in treating effective and deeply rooted in thou- to manage complex, modern medical these complaints effectively. sands of years of history. They can be problems, is considered mainstream. Take period pain as an example. used on their own, or in combination TCM hospitals abound and many Though common enough, this ailment with Western medical treatments. The Western medical hospitals include a can come from any number of com- ultimate aim, of course, is for a gradual TCM department, where TCM doctors plex causes specific to each individual. improvement in health and overall practice alongside Western medical Perhaps the internal environment is quality of life. If you or someone you specialists. too cold, which causes contraction and love is troubled by women’s health Common treatments like herbal problems – or any others – TCM may be medicine, massage and acupuncture, to- the solution. gether with more specialized therapies alternatively,pain; or maybe stress, the energy diet and needed exercise to like moxibustion (the burning of herbs couldmove bloodbe the smoothly main culprits. is deficient; If a stand or,- Jonathan Hanlon is a TCM doctor at United to warm pressure points) and guasha (a ardized treatment were applied, only Family Guangzhou Clinic. He uses acupuncture deep friction technique to relieve mus- 10-20 percent of women would be and Chinese herbal medicine to help people cle tension and pain), can be used to likely to experience relief. enjoy healthy, pain-free lives. United Family treat a wide range of health problems. Rather, treatments must be tailored Guangzhou Clinic, 1/F, Annex, PICC Bldg., As in Western medicine, the aim to specific health conditions, informed 301 Guangzhou Dadao Zhong, Yuexiu District, having one inherently goes down. The real- Individuals like Steve Jobs, Mark ith high school exit exams just of these TCM treatments is not to cure by a knowledge of a per- Guangzhou 越秀区广州大道中301号人保大厦南 ity is thus clear: a larger supply of graduates Zuckerberg, Bill Gates, James Cameron and 塔副楼首层 around the corner, there is a com- pathologies directly but rather, to son’s overall wellbe- Sir Richard Branson are among those who mon tendency at this time of the stimulate the body’s self-healing func- ing. What is your W and credential devaluation, arguably making - tions. When paired with individualized menstrual cycle in the job market causes academic inflation ferent path. If the aforementioned companies and refocus on what matters most. And from advice on exercise and diet, they form like and what is printed on, especially with rising rates of job aregave progressive up a degree enough to find tosuccess realize down that therea dif whatyear for we’ve students heard, about most toof graduatethem have to one reflect a holistic, context-specific approach to its history? cutsa qualification and redundancy barely dueworth to theautomation paper it’s and thing on their minds: university. overcoming disorder. What is the other advances. folks are brave enough to take the less con- The past few decades have seen unprec- Nowhere are these principles more timing and Bryan Caplan, economics professor ventionalare better routeways to famefind top and talent, fortune, and then these edented growth in high school graduates essential than in the field of women’s and author of a provocative book The Case you too should ask yourself: why are you go- saddling up and heading off to university. health and gynecology – a major area Against Education: Why the Education System ing to university? We’re told that earning a degree expands our of my TCM practice. Whether it’s an Is a Waste of Time and Money, brazenly Now, don’t think for a moment that we’re minds, widens access to higher-paying jobs irregular cycle, heavy periods, concurs with the above-mentioned notion, disputing the utility of a university degree. and boosts the economy. cheekily questioning the usefulness of de- Most jobs these days require a degree and, But an alarming and seemingly unhinged grees and whether it’s even worth getting even though you may be bogged down by ideology is brewing out there: university one. While many disagree with him, there degrees could very well just be a big waste is something immensely refreshing about the more practical skills you have, the more of your money and time. Why, you ask? his perceptions concerning the disparity be- likelystudent you debt, are theto command more qualified a bigger you paycheck. are and tween academic offerings and job opportuni- Let’s leave this controversial debate here All things equal, if an organization has a Think of it like inflation, just academically. ties, and the value of university. with this caveat: while a degree is important That being said, progressive decision- and counts for plenty, it’s what you gain or someone without one, they'll more likely - while earning that degree that matters most, hirechoice the to person hire someone with one. with This a qualificationputs pressure als like Apple, Google, Ernst and Young and whether it’s at a top Ivy League institution, on everyone to get a degree. Demand breeds PricewaterhouseCoopers,makers at top firms, including among multination numerous vocational training center or apprenticeship. supply, so universities rise to the occasion, others, have recently dropped a bombshell: popularizing and commercializing products they’ve discarded degree requirements as the goal should be to emerge from education and services to ensure easier access and withIn a world a nurtured flooded and with expanded devalued mind credentials, rich more opportunities, all while charging more to assess candidates on merit with psycho- and more each year. metric,a pre-filter aptitude for talent and performance-basedaltogether, choosing The popularization and commercializa- testing. According to Ernst and Young, they fromwith creativitythe pack. Theseand practical are the know-how;outcomes that to tion of the degree, led by those seeking to set “found no evidence to conclude that previous matter,find inventive, not the inspiredpath one ways takes to to stand reach out them. themselves apart from the rest, eventually success in higher education correlated with makes (almost) everyone look the same. future success in subsequent professional And once everyone has a degree, the value of

qualifications undertaken.” 48 | SZ | MAY 2018 | WWW.THATSMAGS.COM WWW.THATSMAGS.COM | MAY 2018 | SZ | 49 CITY SCENES REBEL Fighting Championship Press Conference Held at Conrad Guangzhou (Supported by ) Heavy-hitting claims were made and heated words exchanged at the press conference for REBEL Fighting Championship 8: A Warrior’s Return, held on the afternoon of April 12 at the Conrad Guangzhou. Three highly anticipated bouts will take place on May 26 at Guangzhou’s Tianhe Sports

Tenorio, along with Konstantin Linnik of Ukraine, will face off against Wu Chengjie, Liu Wenbo and Wang Sai. Center, pitting some of the best MMA fighters in China against their skilled, international counterparts: Australia’s Chris Morris and Brazil’s Marcelo

New Zealand Chef Robert Oliver Food Sharing 2018 Interchamber Networking Drinks Successfully (Supported by ) Held in Shenzhen With the support of the New Zealand Consulate in Guangzhou, cele- (Supported by ) brated chef Robert Oliver shared a selection of his delicacies with over The successful 2018 Interchamber Networking Drinks, organized by 100 guests at Guangzhou’s The Happy Monk Kingold location. Robert the French Chamber of Commerce and Industry in China (CCIFC) and Oliver is a New Zealand chef who owns restaurants in New York, the Australian Chamber, with support from the European chambers Miami, Las Vegas and Sydney. In 2013, Oliver released his book Mea’ai of Germany, Great Britain, Spain, Benelux and Italy, was held on April Samoa: Recipes and Stories from the Heart of Polynesia, which won the 3 at the Intercontinental Hotel in Shenzhen. Over 170 attendees ‘Best TV Chef Cookbook in the World 2013’ award at the Gourmand gathered in Alenha restaurant to meet new friends and partners World Cookbook Awards in Beijing. while indulging in a charming buffet dinner.

50 | SZ | MAY 2018 | WWW.THATSMAGS.COM PRD FOCUS

his year, 23 Art Space joined hands with Lingnan Tiandi in Foshan he British School of Guangzhou’s Shoebox Appeal event generat- ed over 50 gifts for Huiling School for Children in Need. Teachers, TCultural Venture Cooperation Platform to integrate domestic and Tstudents and parents delivered the donated parcels, which con- internationalto officially resources. establish The the Foshan Guangdong-Hong art space formally Kong-Macao debuted Bay last Area tained toys, crafts, books and games. month, with an exhibition featuring product designs.

his year’s Festival Croisement started in April and offers the op- hina Hotel, a Marriott Hotel recently participated in Journey portunity to discover the best of France. The celebration aims to Week, a brand-promotion event held from April 16-20. Journey Tpromote the diffusion of cultural industries and to allow French CWeek is part of a series of events held at hotels across the Asia- and Chinese artists to share their inspirations. - tracting new talents. Pacific region designed to motivate existing personnel while also at

ocated in Zhongshan’s Gangkou town, Marriott International’s lux- n April 7, a fashion show was held at Yajule Center, an event that ury hotel brand Le Méridien Hotel & Resorts will soon open its sec- showcased an array of fashionable pieces created by Q by Alice Yu L O2018 SS. Ahead-of-the-curve designers were able to present their seaside establishment last spring. At a recently-held recruitment event, creative new collections at the show, which coincided with the launch more thatond 200hotel job in postingsGuangdong, at the after new it gracedhotel were Huizhou offered, with which a magnificent attracted party for Alice Yu Couture. many individuals looking for work in the hospitality industry.

52 | SZ | MAY 2018 | WWW.THATSMAGS.COM WWW.THATSMAGS.COM | MAY 2018 | SZ | 53

WE TRIED IT FOOD, DRINK CRÈME DE LA CRÈME & EVENTS Asia’s 50 Best Restaurants 2018 Revealed IN SHENZHEN By Cristina Ng

Asia’s 50 Best Restaurants for 2018: t the end of March, Asia’s culinary Belon, opened in 2016 by the Black Sheep Weird Eats of the PRD No. 1 Gaggan, Bangkok, Thailand elite gathered at the Wynn Palace Group. No. 2. Den, Tokyo, Japan ‘Cockroach’ on the menu, p58 in Macau to name Asia’s 50 Best Two Michelin-starred Caprice (in the A No. 3 Florilège, Tokyo, Japan Restaurants. It was quite the to-do and China Four Seasons Hotel Hong Kong) is back on No. 4 Sühring, Bangkok, Thailand managed to land 12 restaurants on this the list at No. 46 after a two-year hiatus. No. 5 Odette, Singapore year’s list – one more than 2017. Their pastry chef, Nicolas Lambert, was also No. 6 Narisawa, Tokyo, Japan The two mainland restaurants to make named Asia’s Best Pastry Chef. No. 7 Amber, Hong Kong, China the list include Tony Lu’s upscale Chinese Over in Macau, where the awards were No. 8 Ultraviolet by Paul Pairet, Shanghai, vegetarian restaurant, FuHeHui, which China climbed 18 places to make the cut at No. 30 Dragon was awarded a spot at No. 35, three No. 9 Nihonryoi RyuGin, Tokyo, Japan and Shanghai’s Ultraviolet, helmed by Paul spotsheld, thelower Cantonese than last fine year. dining It is currently outlet Jade the No. 10 Namh, Bangkok, Thailand Pairet, which held strong at No. 8. No main- territory’s only ranked restaurant. No. 11 Mingles, Seoul, Korea land restaurants outside of Shanghai made The World’s 50 Best awards have been No. 12 Burnt Ends, Singapore the cut. subject to scrutiny due to gender represen- No. 13 8½ Otto e Mezzo Bombana, Hong Hong Kong had more movement with tation and yet only two women made the Kong, China nine restaurants on the list. Greater China Asia regional list this year. Bee Satongun is No. 14 Le Du, Bangkok, Thailand the 2018 recipient of the Asia’s Best Female No. 15 Raw, Chinese Taipei Ekkebus’ contemporary French eatery, Chef award, itself a hotly contested award. No. 16 Ta Vie, Hong Kong, China Amber,is not in has the dropped top five thisfrom year fourth as Richard to seventh Her restaurant, Paste, entered the list at No. No. 17 La Cime, Osaka, Japan place. 8½ Otto e Mezzo Bombana and Lung 31. The only other woman represented this No. 18 Mume, Chinese Taipei King Heen also placed lower in the list than year, also based in Bangkok, Duangporn ‘Bo’ No. 19 Indian Accent, New Delhi, India in 2017. Songvisava shares the No. 37 slot with her No. 20 L’Effervescence, Tokyo, Japan Danny Yip’s Contemporary Cantonese husband, Dylan ‘Lan’ Jones. No. 21 Locavore, Bali, Indonesia destination, The Chairman, jumped to No. The 2018 Asia’s 50 Best Restaurants list No. 22 The Chairman, Hong Kong, China 22 from No. 47 earning this year’s Highest is sponsored by San Pellegrino and Acqua No. 23 Waku Ghin, Singapore Climber Award. Ever-popular Ronin also Panna and run by William Reed Business No. 24 Lung King Heen, Hong Kong, China climbed up four spots to No. 41 and French- Media who also run The World’s 50 Best No. 25 Ministry of Crab, Colombo, Sri Lanka Japanese, Ta Vie moved from No. 33 to No. 16. Restaurants and Latin America’s 50 Best No. 26 Jungsik, Seoul, Korea New entrants included purvey- Restaurants. This year’s sixth annual re- No. 27 Sushi Saito, Tokyo, Japan ors of homey French-Italian cuisine, gional list was decided by “more than 300 No. 28 Il Ristorante Luca Fantin, Tokyo, Japan Neighborhood, as well as the French bisto, restaurant industry experts in Asia.” No. 29 Les Amis, Singapore No. 30 Fu He Hui, Shanghai, China No. 31 Paste, Bangkok, Thailand No. 32 Neighborhood, Hong Kong, China No. 33 Eat Me,Bangkok, Thailand No. 34 Hajime, Osaka, Japan No. 35 Jade Dragon, Macau, China No. 36 Corner House, Singapore No. 37 Bo.Lan, Bangkok, Thailand No. 38 Quintessence, Tokyo, Japan No. 39 Issaya Siamese Club, Bangkok, Thailand No. 40 Belon, Hong Kong, China No. 41 Ronin, Hong Kong, China No. 42 TocToc, Seoul, Korea No. 43 The Dining Room at the House of Sathorn, Bangkok, Thailand No. 44 Jaan, Singapore No. 45 Nihonbashi, Colombo, Sri Lanka No. 46 Caprice, Hong Kong, China No. 47 Shoun RyuGin, Chinese Taipei No. 48 La Maison de la Nature Goh, Fukuoka, Japan Simply Sùgo Paulener Extends to CBD No. 49 Wasabi by Morimoto, Mumbai, India P57 P61 No. 50 Whitegrass, Singapore

54 | SZ | MAY 2018 | WWW.THATSMAGS.COM WWW.THATSMAGS.COM | MAY 2018 | SZ | 55 [email protected]

WHAT’S ON WAIMAI Mr. Zheng There’s nothing quite like liangpi – chilled, translucent noodles doused in - GRAPE VINE mer months. In case you don’t have a street-sideflavorful sauce stall – handy, for South Mr. China’sZheng delivers sum THE SCANDALOUS SCOOP no-mess noodles at reasonable prices. A RMB16, vegetarian-friendly serv- ing of liangpi – which includes julienned cucumbers, carrots and cabbage – comes We’re Digging: with a separately-packaged sauce of your choice. Simply rip open a couple packets and drizzle for instant tangy, tongue-tin-

Spongy chunks of gluten – mianjin – sopgling up spiciness extra sauce or a and milder also sesame add a chewy flavor. texture to the mix. For those craving meat, Mr. Zheng serves up another Shaanxi specialty: roujiamo (RMB12). The restaurant’s rendition of fatty stewed pork inside a

delivery. (RMB10). A modest cup of the liquid-y Price: RMB16-26 Mother-child brunch deals plus flat Individualwhite bun isrestaurants solid, if a littlein the soggy chain on stuff is sprinkled with crisped rice, dried Good for: cold noodles, roujiamo Mexican feasts thanks to two timely – which number 33 in Shenzhen – offer fruit and seeds, making for a parfait-like Search for: 凉皮先生 holidays; a new and improved fusion some variation, but one other menu item concoction that’s also perfect for hot Available on: Baidu Waimai, Dianping, - that never fails to please is the yogurt days. Eleme, Koubei, Meituan nation BOA (page 62); another cool F&Bmenu mash-up at fine dining/clubbing in the form of bar-club- desti speakeasy Ciyuntang (page 63); and Shenzhen cabs getting stocked with snacks in yet another startup scheme. OLDIE BUT GOODIE We’re Done with: Sùgo “To convince my mom to let me get in- well-baked crusts beneath authentic Italian volved, I jumped into the mud and practiced Some of Shenzhen’s finest pizza – crunchy, - [shaping it like] dough again and again, dant corner northeast of Sea World. Fine im- portedflavors parma– are found ham atis theSùgo, star tucked of the in Contadina its ver mom laughed and told me now I’m over- (RMB99), with other combos like Hawaiian, until I was qualified to work the dough. My veggie or durian available till 10.30pm. She pulled herself out of the mud, of If the space is small – two tables inside, course,qualified.” and into a career that took her to with room for another 14 people on the Italy, on and off, for 17 years. She discov- vine-draped patio – it’s carefully construct- ered love and heartbreak, found a spiritual ed. Wind blows easy with no windows in the way, while the greenery and the lighting months of training with pizza maestros make for a charming, romantic setting. ofhome, Milan. and Then channeled in 2013, her the passion Shekou into space five The departure of ‘Szechuan’ and The small staff – just owner Weiling and opened up and her prayers were answered. gongbao McNugget dipping sauces at two young men – hustle those crisp piz- Chinese McDonald’s locations nation- zas out of Italian-made ovens (electric, but relies on high-quality ingredients from wide; Glass Hammer’s months-long quite suitable) and carry over the Aperol, Italy’sWith De such Cecco a smallrather staff than and roll space, out the Sùgo menu makeover stalled and interrupted Prosecco and other Italian tipples. pasta themselves. But expert preparation by a kitchen renovation; a restaurant- Weiling’s passion for food was a lifetime and a careful appreciation of the cuisine dwelling rodent taking a near-suicidal in the making. “When I was nine,” she tells leap into diners’ in Shenzhen; us, “my mother worked in the canteen. I a welcome taste of home. and having to set our networking party asked to get involved, but China faced hun- creates dishes where Italian expats can find back to mid-May – we’ll make it up to ger at that time so we didn’t have enough Open daily, 10am-10.30pm. No. 116, Bldg. 3, you, though, with lowered prices and dough. She’d just give me this tiny piece to Nanhai E-Cool, 6 Xinghua Lu, Shekou, Nanshan work.” But that wasn’t enough. District 南山区蛇口兴华路6号南海意库3栋116铺 (2667 2667) free flow wine all night long.

56 | SZ ||MAY MAY 20182018 | WWW.THATSMAGS.COM WWW.THATSMAGS.COM | MAY 2018 | SZ | 57 EAT & DRINK | FEATURE FEATURE | EAT & DRINK

WEIRD SNACKS OF THE PRD Take a Walk on the Wild Side By Tristin Zhang Cow’s Three-Star Don’t let the genteel name fool you – this time-tested dish is made up of less than glamorous ingredients. Composed of a cow’s heart, kidneys and liver, ‘cow’s three star’ is a soup for those who like their viscera with a side of scallion and pickled It’s widely known that eaters here in Guangdong rarely shy away from unusual cabbage. It’s become so popular over the years that this medley of innards can be found at nearly any in the city, but to find the dish’s au- bites. From pig guts to pupae, eating out in the PRD can often feel like an exercise thentic roots one must make a gutsy pilgrimage to Guangzhou's historic Xiguan neighborhood of Liwan. in one-upmanship. This month, we challenge our readers to take a walk on the culinary wild side with these out-of-the-ordinary street snacks.

Fish Skins Popular along the length of China’s coast from Shandong in the north down to Pig’s Trotter with Ginger Guangdong in the south, snacking on fish skins is a deep-rooted tradition. These This time-honored stew is said to have come into existence more than 600 years piscine pelts can be found at back alley eateries throughout Guangzhou’s more ago during the Ming Dynasty. Believed to be of great benefit to women after historic quarters. The crispy, deep-fried version is considered more approach- childbirth, it’s often given to relatives and neighbors as well as new mothers to able, while the chewy, cold rendition –tossed with scallions, ginger, soy sauce and celebrate the arrival of a newborn. The knuckles of a pig’s trotter are marinated peanuts – can be a challenge to the palate for first-timers. with vinegar and ginger before being stewed with eggs and brown sugar until rubbery.

Pig Blood Curd In the 1990s, old women carrying wooden containers of homemade pig’s blood Water Cockroaches soup were a common sight on Guangzhou’s streets. Known in Guizhou as ‘blood There are some lines that, even in the name of journalism, we are not willing tofu,’ the curdled treat can be eaten on its own or as flavor boosting addition to to cross. While we have not sampled this highly nutritious snack first hand, hot pot and congee. Steeped in a peppery soup and seasoned with diced scal- some Guangdong natives will swear by so-called ‘water cockroaches’ (in fact, a lions, this is iron-rich Southern comfort food at its best. member of the beetle family) as a protein-packed, low-fat treat that is also eaten Mexico, Japan and Thailand. In Guangzhou, it’s usually found in seafood restau- rants where it is fried with salt and pepper or cooked with wasabi.

58 | SZ | MAY 2018 | WWW.THATSMAGS.COM WWW.THATSMAGS.COM | MAY 2018 | SZ | 59 EAT & DRINK | NEW RESTAURANTS NEW RESTAURANT | EAT & DRINK WANN LOUNGE Peak Chic By Adam Robbins

henzhen can’t be stopped. Every day it seems like ground breaks for sky- Sscrapers – the second tallest ever is starting in Longgang, and seven 300+ meter towers now stand in One Shenzhen Bay on ground dredged forth from the sea. - food. The self-trained chef demands the The bar is half the fun with a huge range Though still unfinished, the area is al highest quality ingredients from abroad: ready filling with a new generation ready to Spanish ham, Wagyu beef, Italian spirits enjoy the city’s finest food, drink and service. and more decorate the menu – more impor- forof whiskies the half-dozen (RMB1,080-10,880/bottle) delicious Negronis among and Lounge.On the second floor of the T3 Block, they tantly, they’re used wisely and served by an their27 varieties cocktails. of gin (RMB880-3,580/bottle) find a destination in the agreeably hip Wann English-speaking staff of considerate man- Like the rest of One Shenzhen Bay, ris- who made a fortune in steel before mov- ners. ing from the sea to towering aspirations, ing toIt’s design the first studios endeavor and hisfrom true an passion: owner There’s elevated snacks to start, like Wann Lounge lifts our expectations for what tasty spring rolls (RMB38) and a range of ta- Shenzhen’s food scene can achieve. pas (RMB38-78), with Spanish ham, and the indulgently rich duck and mango chutney as Price: RMB200-2,000 our favorites. But there’s a full range of luxu- Who’s going: lawyers, managers, fuerdai rious entrees like 10-hour sous vide spare rib Good for: for RMB588. Pasta is all rolled in house for a and being seen thick, authentic feel that even Italian patri- Nearest metro: craft cocktails, Dengliang fine Station dining, (Exit seeing A) ots could salute. The Bolognese (RMB128), 12 minutes dense with slow-cooked meat, tomato and the richness of lobster broth, is among the Open daily 11.30-2pm, 6pm-2am; 2/F, Building 1, T3 Block, Shenzhen Bay One, Lanyue Third Street best, though the tortellini (RMB98) is also PAULANER BRAUHAUS 209B, Nanshan District 兰月三街深圳湾一号南山区广 well done, if especially thick. 场1栋2楼209B (181-2413 0186) Knuckle Down By Adam Robbins

gracious relief. The Place The Food Whether or not you think you like Now that observation deck of Shenzhen’s German pork knuckle, you’ll love Paulaner’s GREEN BOWL The menu is true to its Chinese roots, with tallest building is open, it’s the perfect time version (RMB88-258). The skin is crisped many dishes designed for a familiar ap- Fit Fodder Fusion to visit the Ping An IFC. Take in the verdant to crackling, the meat is pared away and the peal, including Taiwanese-style minced By Winnie Jin city from Olympian heights, then descend sauces – dark beer, black pepper or spicy pork (RMB45) and sweet and sour lemon Sichuan – appeal to the range of tastes. surprisingly homey and delicious Paulaner But our favorite is the veal escalope smoothies or acai bowls here – the food is The Place Brewpubto a host of among fine dining them. options, with the (wiener schnitzel RMB218). It’s extremely decidedlybass (RMB55). ‘fusion’ You but won’t leans find more any toward kale Take note, health-conscious Shenzheners: - the local. there’s a new restaurant serving up guilt- wood tones and bright plaids (for both ter crust is too prominent on its own, it’s The spinach mashed potato puree free Chinese and fusion foods. Green Bowl upholsteryInside the and eighth-floor wait staff) welcomeeatery, light diners thetender, perfect of course, bite with but creamy if the flour potato of the salad bat (RMB58) is truly a ‘green bowl’ – a blend describes itself as a ‘diet brand’ promoting craving European fare or European sports and sweet-tart cranberry. A shockingly good of spinach, potatoes, peas, asparagus and “healthy organic food with Chinese taste.” (like the World Cup they’ll screen starting combo, all thanks to that sauce. avocados in an attractive forest green. Like pected and the stuff of leisurely day drink- The restaurant is nestled on the eighth mid-June). most of Green Bowl’s entrees, the dish is ing. Less so the version with peach juice, served with sides of rice, soup and veggies aiming to be a high-end apartment complex everything (walls, furniture, signage), cacti The Beer when ordered as a lunch set. The puree was beer. forfloor the of hip, a Software young tech Industry workers Base in building the area. and smooth jazz. For a community where The Food As recent converts to the cult of hoppy tasty and light, but took us by surprise with where a round sweetness hid all flavor of Guests get “the same treatment, service and IPAs, we were skeptical of the Paulaner Bowl provides a strong modern take on food you’ll get in a Paulaner in Germany,” lagers. Even if they’re brewed right here in The Taiwanese-style minced pork fell just Orright just for get you. a five-glass sampler (RMB98) Chinesefitness and fusion nutrition cuisine. are trending, Green we’re assured by the manager, herself a vet- Shenzhen by a young female brewmaster – morean overwhelming closely within coconut Chinese milk food flavor. standards and taste away till you find the one that’s eran of the brand’s Shekou location and the Price: RMB150-300 Price: RMB45-80 Beijing Kempinski before that. And though Yet our doubts were relieved by their elsewhere, but with less fat. We rounded Who’s going: business travelers, families, Who’s going: health nuts, vegans, Software she vows never to include rice dishes, the a first for China, we’re told. out– the the flavors meal resembledwith a berry what smoothie you’d find CBD workers Industry Base workers chef (also from the Kempinski) devised a (RMB35), which was thin but fresh and free Good for: light beer, hearty European cuisine Good for: menu that is half new, styled to the Chinese arounddark lager the (RMB48/300 tongue, it could mL almost RMB368/3L). pass as of added sugar or syrup. Nearest metro: Shopping Park (Exit C) Nearest metro: Keyuan (Exit A) palate. Sichuan steak (RMB228) is a worthy aWith stout. flavors like chocolate wrapping 5 minutes 14 minutes fusion food, lighter local flavors addition that could feed two, with slices of Other varieties are light as expected, The Vibe tender, premium beef half-smothered by but Paulaner plays to that with a range of Open 11am-midnight. 8/F, Shop 801, PAFC Mall Ping Open 7am-9pm; 8/F, Building 8, Block 2A, Software the pronounced mala sauce. When it gets sweet mixed beer drinks. Try it with Sprite An Finance Centre, 5033 Yi Tian Lu, Futian District 福田 The scene is minimalistic, featuring white Industry Base, Haitian 1st Road, Nanshan District 南 区益田路5033号平安金融中心N801 (8253 5187) 山区海天一路软件产业基地2A栋8楼 (8600 8876) too hot, the cheesy käsespätzle noodles give -

(RMB45/300 mL) – it’s less sweet than ex 60 | SZ | MAY 2018 | WWW.THATSMAGS.COM WWW.THATSMAGS.COM | MAY 2018 | SZ | 61 EAT & DRINK | NEW RESTAURANT NEW BAR | EAT & DRINK CIYUNTANG TRADITIONAL MASSAGE Hidden Pleasure By Bailey Hu

that too, with a ‘steamed’ drink (RMB98) adding in passionfruit jam and lemon juice. Not all of the cocktails are hits: the sakura bath (RMB98), for instance, both looks and tastes like hard pink lemonade. For the same price, though, a Kyoto spa im- presses with a tasteful blend of sweet chry- santhemum gin and bitter perilla leaf. Drinkers who’d rather not pay the price for high-end liquors can simply step down- stairs for beers and mixed drinks (RMB35- 48), not to mention a small, neon-lit dance - though we’re told the place is packed during weeklyfloor. It’s parties. empty on a Monday night, al BOA It’s not hard to imagine. As hits from Club Fusion n Asia, massage parlors aren’t al- Drake and Frank Ocean play, in-the-know ways what they seem. This is true of drinkers keep trickling into the upstairs By Bailey Hu ICiyuntang, although it’s taken the con- ‘English-style’ bar. cept in a wildly different direction. They’re undoubtedly drawn in by The Beer Behind a slate-gray panel and row of Ciyuntang’s eclectic mix of upscale cocktails plastic bamboo is a spacious snack spot with club vibes, all with a Chinese twist. The fromof fine the white former sand. Club Viva, remains solid. Despite its EDM soundtrack, the restaurant Fortunately the dance floor, a holdover sporting red lanterns and Chinese paint- so-called massage parlor may be a little weird, ings. And behind that, past a door disguised but it’s certainly original in its approach to dishes not easily found elsewhere. as decoration, is the main attraction: a hip bring customers a happy ending to the night. The Food remainsPrices a solidmay deter choice casual for fine clubbers, dining, al with- hop-blasting party hub and bar, complete BOA impresses with a unique fusion menu: though BOA generally doesn’t require cover with an upstairs cocktail lounge. Price: RMB35-98 per drink – with the exception of larger-scale parties. On weekdays, the lounge attracts most Who’s going: cocktail connoisseurs, hip hop look Eastern but taste European thanks to Still, that’s no reason not to explore the visitors, who can choose from a wide vari- lovers additionstuna truffle of rolls arugula (RMB98), and aged for cheese.example, curiosity that is Shekou’s newest nightlife- ety of single malt scotches and other liquors Good for: unique drinks, hidden doors, The food is also unabashedly luxe. A slash-fusion food spot, even if it’s only for the in addition to some very special cocktails. boozy endings mouthwatering slab of aged Black Angus novelty of feeling sand between your toes. How special? We’d dare to say that no Nearest metro: Taoyuan (Exit D) (RMB348) comes glazed to a subtle sweet- other bar in Shenzhen makes drinks with 13 minutes ness and topped with lightly-seared foie Price: RMB90-250 seaweed-infused Talisker whiskey – which, gras. As if that wasn’t enough, there’s also Who’s going: with its mix of salt and peat, is pretty bomb. avocado-wrapped caviar sushi, priced at bar-hoppers And though baijiu cocktail fever has yet to Open daily, 7pm-2am Mon-Fri, 7pm-3am Sat-Sun; RMB98 a piece. Good for: unique hungry fusion high-flyers, food, luxe-loving trendy dates 3011-16 Nanhai Dadao, Nanshan District南山区南海 make its way down south, Ciyuntang has Even a dry martini (RMB68) turns out Nearest metro: Sea World (Exit A) 6 minutes 大道3011-16号 to be, unlike your average club, heavy on the vodka. Open daily, 5pm-2am Sun-Thu, 5pm-4am Fri-Sat; 3/F, West side of International Bar Street, Sea (RMB38) isn’t as indulgent as we’d expect- World, Shekou, Nanshan District 南山区蛇口海上世界 ed, althoughSadly, the that Nutella-filled might just maki be in rollcompari - 国际酒吧街西侧三楼 (130-4894 9034) son to everything else.

The Place into BOA is, Why is there sand under my shoes?The first And thing if you, you’ll like think us, favor after open-toe stepping kicks during Shenzhen’s sweltering sum- mers, it’ll be accompanied by this: Why is there sand in my shoes? BOA strives to present itself as a high- end venue for both food and nightlife and, with roving purple spotlights and fancy place settings, it succeeds. It’s not without quirks, though. The lobby and anterior dining area, for with all-glass walls and drape-y canvas ceil- ing.instance, It also is boasts outfitted an inconvenientas an imitation amount patio

62 | SZ | MAY 2018 | WWW.THATSMAGS.COM WWW.THATSMAGS.COM | MAY 2018 | SZ | 63 THE INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL ISNSOF NANSHAN SHENZHEN

HOMELAND Zooming in on Iran through a Camera Lens

BY WANG YAO

fter documenting Israel and Russia in of her AHomeland series, photographer Wang HOMELAND: Yao is backthe again first withand secondthe third book release focus- ing on yet another exotic location: Iran. IRAN Wang Yao April 2018 Much like Wang’s previous work, Homeland: 250mm ×250mm Iran is a visual documentation of the pictur- 180 pages, ¥198.00 esque landscape and the colorful culture of the Chinese-English Middle Eastern nation. Zeroing in on the daily hardcover 978-7-5085-3358-2 only the environment in which they live, but it alsolives vividlyof the locals,depicts the their collection aspirations reflects in life. not MAKING HISTORY Congratulations to the Class of 2018. ISNS’s first HOMELAND: ISRAEL July 2016 IB Diploma (DP) cohort! HOMELAND: 250mm×250mm RUSSIA 180 pages, ¥198.00 April 2017 Chinese-English 250mm ×250mm hardcover 180 pages, ¥198.00 978-7-5085-3366-7 Chinese-English hardcover IB STRONG 978-7-5085-3359-9

FIRST CONTINUUM IB WORLD SCHOOL www.facebook.com/GoISNS/ @ISNS_School @isns_official FOLLOW IN SHENZHEN, CHINA [e] [email protected] 11 Longyuan Road, Taoyuan Sub-District, Nanshan District 64 | SZ | MAY 2018 | WWW.THATSMAGS.COM [w] www.isnsz.com Shenzhen, P.R. China, 518055 [t] +86-2666-1000 中国深圳南山区桃源街道龙苑路11号 Tomorrow Festival Music Festival

HEAR NGHTMRE & Slander: Gud The Swingles Concert Vibrations Set Tomorrow Festival Music Festival Sound Fountain Concert

Tomorrow Festival is a non-mainstream music festival in OCT-LOFT, Shenzhen, China, Versatile and driven to push the happening annually every May since 2014. Tomorrow Festival covers various styles The bass-driving DJ friends behind boundaries of vocal music, The of music, including experimental, rock, avant-garde, free jazz and world music. It fo- the NGHTMRE and Slander noms- Swingles visit the PRD for an even- cuses on the artistic prospective and creativity. Tomorrow refers to a kind of spiritual de-scene joined up for the 2015 hit ing of a cappella wonder. Earning direction. It implies the longing for new things and more possibilities. ‘Gud Vibrations’ and they’ve never five Grammy awards during its 50 May 17-20, 8pm concerts 2pm talk, screening; RMB100-280 advance RMB150-320 door looked back. Taking the tour to year history, the group has been RMB500 all-access pass. B10 Live, Building C2, North Area, OCT-Loft, Xiangshan Dong Jie, Shenzhen’s ReBorn755 warehouse continually refreshed by young tal- Nanshan District 南山区香山东街华侨城创意文化园北区C2栋北侧 (b10live.cn) arena, the boys offer EDM lovers ent. Their newest album, Folklore, trap, heaven trap, bass, and future arranges beloved folk songs from win! bass tracks to last late into the around the world to reflect the night. group’s rich world of sound. The Every May since 2014 OCT-LOFT imagines the future with this non-mainstream win! Sat May 5, 10pm; RMB 280. ReBorn755, 4 results will surprise you. music festival. Tomorrow Festival features experimental, rock, avant-garde, Yi Lu, Nanshan District 南山区赤湾 Tue May 22, 8pm; RMB 180-380. Shenzhen free jazz and world music, with Tea Rockers, KRAUTWERK, AOKI takamasa, On guitar, bass and drums, the trio behind Sound Fountain explore surprising mu- 一路四号 (247tickets.com) Concert Hall, 2016 Fuzhong Yi Lu, Futian Konono Nº1, Jun Togawa, Guo Yongzhang and GONG performing. Concerts sical landscapes that rollick from jazz through rock, world, new classical and free District福田区福中一路2016号 (247tickets. take place each day at B10 Live, with an underground fanzine talk and screen- improvisation. With Dublin-born Christy Doran at the heart, the three musicians com) ing of Here to Be Heard: The Story of the Slits at A3+ on May 19 and 20. blend “haunting melodies, catchy grooves, spherical moods and abstract musical ORF Vienna Radio Symphony May 17-20, 8pm concerts 2pm talk, screening; RMB100-280 advance RMB150-320 door textures” to create a cascade of music that is far more than the sum of its parts. RMB500 all-access pass. B10 Live, Building C2, North Area, OCT-Loft, Xiangshan Dong Jie, Wed May 9, 8pm; RMB100 presale RMB120 door. B10 Live, Building C2, North Area, OCT- Orchestra Concert Nanshan District 南山区香山东街华侨城创意文化园北区C2栋北侧 (b10live.cn/tomorrow- Loft, Xiangshan Dong Jie, Nanshan District 南山区香山东街华侨城创意文化园北区C2栋北 Windsbach Boys Choir Concert festival) 侧 (b10live.cn) win! We’re giving away tickets for our featured B10 Live concerts! Message our Fall Out Boy: Mania Tour Concert official WeChat account (ThatsShenzhen) three days before the show and tell us why you should win!

Joshua Radin Concert

Gifted young Chinese-American pianist Claire Huangci has emerged from child prodigy status to a “radiant virtuosity.” She joins the renowned Vienna RSO for a con- cert of Shubert’s Great Symphony (No. 9), Kabalewskij’s Fantasia and Schubert’s Rosamunde Overture, with Cornelius Meister conducting. Sat May 12, 8pm; RMB380-1,880. Shenzhen Poly Theatre, Baoli Culture Square, Haibin Lu, Houhai, Nanshan For generations, the boys of the District 深圳市南山区后海滨路保利文化 renowned German choir have 广场保利剧院 (247tickets.com) excelled with talent beyond their years. With a repertoire spanning a cappella to great oratorical mas- terpieces like Handel’s Messiah, 70 young singers perform nearly Hailing from Chicago, the American alt-rock band has cemented their position 50 concerts every year. Singing for world leaders, the dulcet voices of win! as one of rock’s biggest-selling bands, backed by their arsenal of top-ranked hits and albums. Now, the group is back bigger and better than ever with their the young men have made their own little contribution to world Even if he never intended to become a live performer, when Joshua Radin’s latest album, Mania. It marks the band’s fourth chart-topping album and their sixth consecutive top 10 on Billboard. peace. Hear them for yourself on first song "Winter" was featured on an episode of Scrubs, popular acclaim this one-night performance. drove him to a record deal and countless world tours. Now, a half million Fri May 4, 8pm; RMB380-1,280. Shenzhen Bay Sports Center, 3001 Binhai Dadao, Nanshan District, 南山区滨海大道3001号 (www.247tickets.com) Tue May 22, 8pm; RMB180-580. Huaxia record sales later, Radin has seen his songs featured in more than 150 differ- Art Center, 1 Guangqiao Jie, OCT 华侨城 ent films, commercials, and TV shows. He tours China in support of last year’s 光侨街1号 (247tickets.com) album, The Fall, which was the first produced by himself. Sat May 12, 8pm; RMB150 presale RMB180 door. B10 Live, Building C2, North Area, OCT- Loft, Xiangshan Dong Jie, Nanshan District 南山区香山东街华侨城创意文化园北区C2栋北 侧 (b10live.cn)

66 | SZ | MAY 2018 | WWW.THATSMAGS.COM WWW.THATSMAGS.COM | MAY 2018 | SZ | 67 DO SEE TASTE

Women in Business Forum Colloquium Punchline Comedy Club – Whose Line Is It Anyway? Improv Comedy TNT Theatre Britain: Julius Lord of the Dance: Dangerous That’s PRD X Wine & Etc Wine Party Caesar Stage Games Dance

Spoiler alert: Rome’s conquering Michael Flatley’s 1998 dance sensa- dictator doesn’t make it out alive. tion broke box office records but But with their betrayals, revenge and wasn’t it missing something? Perhaps unyielding ambition, the assassins time-travelling robots? Strange as and defenders of Shakespeare’s po- it may sound, the Irish dance com- litical thriller give us a warning that pany’s sequel adds sci-fi elements to endures. Award-winning art direction a timeless tale that’s earned praise by Paul Stebbings should make this a from critics the world over. Check it worthwhile sight … if it isn’t canceled out for yourself and revel in the spec- as too ‘sensitive’ for current tastes. tacle of good dancing all over the Sun May 6, 7.30pm; RMB160-320. plots of evil Don Dorcha. Shenzhen Children’s Palace, 2002 May 19-20, 8pm & 2.30pm; RMB180-880. More than 200 women gather each year for this flagship event from the British According to The Times, the new cast of this improv comedy show is “Pure tal- Fuzhong Yi Lu, Futian District福田区福中 Nanshan Cultural and Sports Center, 62 Chamber of Commerce Guangdong. With a theme of #PressforProgress, the ent, better than the TV show!” The five comedic alchemists promise to weave 一路2002号 (247tickets.com) Jie, Nanshan District 南山区南山 forum hopes to establish a platform for women to inspire each other and ex- comedy gold by taking scenarios, genres, phrases and props suggested by the 大道南头街62号 (247tickets.com) change information in support of one another. Guxi, a co-founder of TechieCat audience and turning them into a hilarious array of sketches, songs, comic will speak of her experience of building the first female technology community dramas and more. and encouraging women to get more involved in technology and coding. Wed May 23, 8pm; RMB 190 presale RMB220 door. Hard Rock Cafe Shenzhen, 9 Mission Minding the Digital Exhibition/ KIBUBU Theater Technical issues delayed this free-flow food-and-wine event, but the date is set Fri May 11, 1.30-5.30pm; RMB100-200. China Merchants Hall, 2/F, Hilton Shenzhen Hills Road, Longhua New District 龙华新区观澜高尔夫大道9号 (247tickets.com) and Ms. Dany Santana of Concept Express is ready to serve as your host for the Shekou Nanhai, 1177 Wanghai Lu, Shekou, Nanshan District 南山区蛇口望海路1177号 Tour night. Gourmet Italian finger foods, live DJ performance and hundreds of RMB (yoopay.cn/event/94145213) worth of dining vouchers await, in the luxurious rooms of Blue. Get your ticket for only RMB299 by scanning the QR code above. Sat May 19, 7pm networking 10pm afterparty; RMB299. Blue, 3/F, The Venice Hotel, 9026 Party Party Shennan Lu, by Qiaocheng Xi Jie, 南山区华侨城深南路9026号威尼斯酒店二楼3楼 (136- Sexy Nurse Party Mettāsonic Album Release African Party with Hand Drum 0264 0769) Performance Party

Chili Cookoff 2018 Tasting Saffron Selections Lunch Sets

Explore the unexpected contours of In this family-oriented farce, Xebas our new digital world, with art cre- and Cocó the clowns enlist a gorilla ated by and with our robot helpers. to save the failing show. With humor Interactive art, maker space work- and pathos, the Spanish comedians shops, fantastical fashion and lumi- attempt to tame the animal for tricks nescent landscapes are just a fraction and the praise of their fellow hu- mans. But in true parable fashion, the What better way to show our appre- of this thought-provoking panoply. Saffron knows we love a good teachers are the ones with important ciation for hard-working, life-saving Catch it before its June 3 party brings set lunch, so they’re making their Celebrate the cultures, rhythms and the sprawling exhibit to a close. lessons to learn. medical workers on International long struggle for independence 11:30am-3pm offerings available every Ongoing, 10am-10pm; curator’s tour Sun Sun May 27, 10.30am & 3pm; RMB80- Nurse Day than by showing them at among the peoples of Africa. Terrace day, including weekends. Enjoy a fully May 20, 3:30-4pm; RMB80. Sea World 280. Shenzhen Children‘s Palace, 2002 their very sexiest? Dress up in your takes the opportunity to decorate vegetarian option witih two portions of Culture and Arts Center, 1187 Wanghai Fuzhong Yi Lu, Futian District 福田区福中 most attractive scrubs (or short white in selected African styles, with the McCawley’s Sea World hosts their vegetables, rice, naan bread, salad, fla- Lu, Shekou, Nanshan District 南山区蛇口 一路2002号 (en.damai.cn) skirt) to win a Best Dressed Prize and house band TAS putting on a special Annual Chili Cook-Off on Saturday vored Indian curd, dessert and a Coke 望海路1187号 (designsociety.cn) party with Terrace’s prize-winning performance for the night. Enjoy May 12 starting at noon. Fiery or for only RMB50. Or for just RMB5 more, band TAS. Work hard, play hard with huge discounts on certain beverages smoky? Beans or just meat? Seven swap out the veggies with servings of drink specials till 9.30pm. until 9.30pm. competing visions of the Tex-Mex clas- vegetarian and lamb/fish/chicken curry. Fri May 11, 9.30pm; free entry. The Fri May 25, 9.30pm; free entry. The sic vie for your vote before the 3pm Indulge a little and swap out your Coke Terrace Restaurant & Bar, No. 201, Sea Terrace Restaurant & Bar, No. 201, Sea award announcement. Lay down your for a cool Tsingtao, Budweiser, Corona World Square, 32 Taizi Lu, Shekou, Did you know that Shenzhen has a drum & bass record label? Born out of World Square, 32 Taizi Lu, Shekou, RMB100 to taste them all, plus a free or Hoegaarden for just RMB10 more. Nanshan District 南山区蛇口太子路32号 Fresh, which has been promoting DNB in town since 2008, Mettāsonic is one Nanshan District 南山区蛇口太子路32号 drink and all the chips and cornbread Or, freshly squeezed seasonal juice, if 海上世界广场商铺201 (theterracechina. year old and releasing its second compilation at Oil on May 11th. It’ll feature 海上世界广场商铺201 (theterracechina. you need to quench the heat. Plus you’re being kind to your liver. Just re- com) live sets and producers from Taipei, Hong Kong, Guangzhou and Shenzhen, com) every guest could win one of the member this great deal is only available with a beatmaker workshop before the event. Follow ‘muzikbox’ on WeChat great lucky draw prizes. in store, not for delivery. for more info. Sat May 12, 12pm; RMB100. Ongoing, 11.30am-3pm; RMB50-65. Fri May 11, 9pm-5am; RMB50 early bird RMB60 presale RMB80 door. Oil Club, 11A McCawley's Irish Pub Shekou, No. 118, Blue, 3/F, The Venice Hotel, 9026 Ground Floor, Tairan Building, Tairan Ba Lu, Futian District 福田区泰然八路泰然大厦01层 32 Taizi Lu, Sea World Shekou, Nanshan Shennan Lu, by Qiaocheng Xi Jie, 南山区 L1-11A (yoopay.cn/event/29889777) District 南山区太子路32号海上世界广场 华侨城深南路9026号威尼斯酒店二楼3楼 118号 (mccawleys.com) (136-0264 0769)

68 | SZ | MAY 2018 | WWW.THATSMAGS.COM WWW.THATSMAGS.COM | MAY 2018 | SZ | 69 HOTEL NEWS HONG KONG & MACAU CALENDAR HILTON SHENZHEN SHEKOU NANHAI Hosts Regional F&B Master Competition HK MO The successful conclusion of the 2018 MAY 8 Catholic devotees commemorate Hilton F&B Master Competition South MAY 5 MAY 13 the miracle of Fátima in Portugal SAT TUE in 1917. It will feature an open-air Region was marked with a gala din- SUN mass, while white-robed women ner welcoming over a hundred VIP carry the statue of Our Lady of customers, including Hong Kong direc- Fátima through the historic streets of Macau. tor/producer Philip Chan and wine connoisseur Vincent Law. The annual event includes five challenges for MAY 22 Hilton’s food and beverage experts – WED bar, sommelier, dessert, culinary and Harry Styles Live on Tour, 8pm; barista – winnowing 1,000 participants HKD488-4,888.Hong Kong A-Ma Festival, morning. A-Ma Convention and Exhibition Centre Temple. down to 22 nationwide finalists. The Hall 5BC (hkticketing.com) District Race, 7am-3pm; HKD383- Hilton Shenzhen Shekou Nanhai, fac- The 24-year-old One Direction This festival celebrates the goddess 450. Central Harbourfront Event A-Ma, from whom Macau is said to ing Shenzhen Bay to the west with alum added 56 more dates to his Space (districtrace.com) first world tour, in response to derive its Cantonese name. After easy access to Hong Kong International demand from fans. The young The second-ever iteration of the a ritual ceremony, a parade will Airport, sends the regional champion commence in honor of the deity – heart-throb still plays some of the “urban exploration race” pits run- to the final competition to see who is ners against The Grid of virtual city- known in mainland China as Mazu, boy band’s songs, but more recent the 2018 Hilton F&B Master of Greater works from his self-titled album wide challengers. As a first-of-its- or the goddess of the sea – to cel- offer, in Variety’s words, a "classic kind concept, there is no set route ebrate the beliefs and customs sur- China and Mongolia. Feast of the Drunken Dragon, morn- cocktail of psychedelia, Britpop, nor distance, letting participants rounding this UNESCO-recognized ing. Kuan Tai Temple (near Senado and balladry.” Whether or not you devise their own routes to explore tradition. Square) swoon over his looks, the prince- more than 80 virtual checkpoints. ling of British pop performs with Challenges require different skills The Feast of the Drunken Dragon, a confidence and clarity we can like speed, city knowledge, dex- MAY 12 also known as the Drunken Dragon all enjoy. terity and problem-solving acu- SAT and Lion Dance Gala, is a local men, and participants can choose traditional folk festival celebrated the challenges that play to their by fishmongers in Macau, which MAY 12 strengths. Download the app and later on developed into an an- SAT get ready to run. nual festivity on the eighth day DanyHosted Santana By of the fourth month of the lunar MAY 18-20 calendar. A ‘drunken dance’ is per- formed with a wooden dragon, as FRI-SUN well as a ‘drunken dragon parade,’ lion dances and the distribution of Super Junior, 7pm; MOP780-1980. ‘longevity rice,’ the grains of which Cotai Arena, The Venetian Macao are said to repel evil spirits. (venetianmacao.com) The party is back! Hosted by Dany As part of their world tour, the UNTIL MAY 31 Time: 7:00 pm to 10:00 pm, popular Korean boy band Super Santana, guests will enjoy a delicious Junior are set to visit fans in Macau Saturday May 19, 2018 this month, performing songs from dinner buffet and free-flow red and their eighth album, Play. Since white wine while networking with forming in 2005, the highly sought- Venue: after boy band have been deemed their peers. That’s PRD teams up with one of K-pop’s most defining acts Concept Express and Wine & Etc. Blue Italian Seafood & Grill Restaurant, 3/F, The and are credited with helping spread the genre’s popularity to to bring you a night of great music, Venice Raytour Hotel Shenzhen 南山区深南大道 global audiences. great prizes and great conversations. 9026 号 , 深圳威尼斯睿途酒店 3 楼意大利餐厅 RSVP for only RMB299 ... if any spots remain. Puccini's Tosca, 5.30pm; HKD210. MAY 13 29th Macao Arts Festival, for specific Dinner buffet, Free flow of red and white wine, HKAPA Béthanie Landmark Heritage programs, please visit icm.gov.mo Affordable Art Fair Hong Kong, SUN Campus (hkticketing.com) The 29th edition of the annual Live DJ, Endless lucky draw prizes, for only 11am / 12pm May 18. Two extraordinary sopranos alter- Macao Arts Festival (MAF), themed Hong Kong Convention & Exhibition RMB299 nate in the title role of the jealous ‘Origan,’ will launch this month Centre Hall 3DE (hkticketing.com) prima donna in Sir David McVicar’s with a wide range of mind- Over 115 galleries showcase a lavish production. Sonya Yoncheva expanding topics. With 26 captivat- broad range of art, all priced be- and Anna Netrebko play the ing programs that fall into seven Dress code: tween HK$1,000 and HK$100,000. doomed Floria Tosca with Vittorio categories (Thematic Highlights, Highlights include the cutting Grigolo and Marcelo Álvarez Groundbreakers, Cross-Disciplinary White shirt and red lips edge Young Talent Hong Kong alternating the role of her revo- Creations, Family Entertainment, exhibition, the large-scale instal- lutionary artist lover Cavaradossi. Quintessence of Tradition, Concerts lations and the Creative Hub with The torture, murder, suicide and and Exhibitions), the MAF is the M+ Rover 2018: Travelling Creative Scan the QR code above for endless passion of Puccini’s most perfect occasion for audiences to Studio. New for 2018, #ForArtSake Procession of Our Lady of Fátima, popular opera unfold under the appreciate classics of the musical, your ticket, for more questions on Friday evening will help raise 5.30pm. St. Domingo’s Church. conductor’s wand of Emmanuel theatrical and visual arts refined awareness of mental wellbeing Starting from St. Domingo’s Church you may contact Maggie at Villaume. through time. and art therapy and host an inter- and working its way to the Penha 13602640769 or Shumin at national lineup of artists perform- Chapel, this annual procession of 13902581631. ing live for charity. This event will SELL OUT, so book early!

70 | SZ | MAY 2018 | WWW.THATSMAGS.COM WWW.THATSMAGS.COM | MAY 2018 | SZ | 71 OPEN DOOR URBAN MOMENTS

Do you have party pictures to contribute? Send them to us at [email protected] and we’ll run the best. GEORGE & DRAGON Hosts Burger Night Every Tuesday Every Tuesday from 5-10pm is Burger Night at George & Dragon. Enjoy RMB10 off the normal price of your burger and get a free pint of lager to Black Suit Party @Terrace, Apr 13rd wash it down. Included in Burger Night is the Stuffed Burger, with three fill- ings of your choice. Stuff your burger with bacon, cheese, mushrooms, pep- pers, or anything you want! Shop No. 3, 5 Taizi Road (behind Taizi Hotel), Nanshan District 南山区太子路5号太子宾馆1楼后 排3号商铺 (2669 8564)

THE TERRACE RESTAURANT & BAR Serves Up Tom Yum Kung Soup Watch out for this authentic Thai soup! You might grow too fond of it and give up your plane tickets to Thailand. Why bother traveling when you can get the delicious food close to home? No. 201, 32 Taizi Lu, Sea World Shekou, Nanshan District南山区蛇口海上世界广场商铺201 (2682 9105)

Pepper 2.0. Re-Genesis@Pepper，Mar 24th Wann Lounge OPENING@Wann Lounge April 9th

PAULANER SHEKOU Spices Up the Menu Shenzhen’s original Paulaner Brauhaus announces new menu items with global inspiration. Sichuan spicy Wagyu sirloin steak delivers classic Chinese heat, Hokkaido scallops look elegant over dark cuttlefish ink spaghetti with basil paste and caviar, while baked tomato cheese prawns with buttered seasonal vegetables pack the richness we crave. Other additions include grilled imported French codfish fillet and Hokkaido scallops with Champagne sauce, Thai style pumpkin soup with prawns and coconut milk, wheat beer-dressed Paulaner garden salad with Black Forest ham and fried chicken wings with parmesan cheese and cranberry jam. C-005, Huanchuan Square, Sea World Shekou, Nanshan District南山区蛇口海上世界C区C-005 (2668 7230)

72 | SZ | MAY 2018 | WWW.THATSMAGS.COM WWW.THATSMAGS.COM | MAY 2018 | SZ | 73 FEATURED LISTINGS

District, Longhua District, (400 867 0177) Vista-SK International Medical Center Lvl CLASSIFIEDS [email protected], www.merchis- 4, Bldg 4C, Shenzhen Software Industry ton.cn 深圳市龙华区大浪街道新石社区石龙仔 Base,Xuefu Lu, Nanshan District (3689 JOBS OFFERED 路12号 9833) 南山区学府路软件产业基地4栋C座裙楼4层 Peninsula Montessori Kindergarten the C-MER (Shenzhen) Dennis Lam Eye Shenzhen Longrun Investment Co., Ltd, Peninsula one, Jin Shiji Lu, Shekou Nan- Hospital 1-2/F, Shengtang Bldg, 1 Tairan Jiu a fast-growing restaurant enterprise is looking for two foreign hostesses to join the shan District ( 2685 1266) Lu, Chegongmiao, Futian District (4001 666 team to greet and show hospitality to guests on behalf of the company. 半岛城邦国际幼儿园 南山区蛇口东角头金世纪路1 120, 3322 7188) 福田区车公庙泰然九路一号 Requirements 盛唐大厦1-2层 号半岛城邦一期 1. Ability to understand and speak basic Chinese. Scan for complete listings 2. A minimum height of 168cm. Quality Schools International Want to see all restaurants, hotels and more in Shenzhen? 2/F Bitao Center, 8 Taizi Lu, IMC(International Medical Center) 3. A passion for communications, with a presentable image. Shekou,Nanshan District (2667 6031). serves the local community and expatriates Monthly payments ranges from RMB 12,000 to 15,000 Check out www.thatsmags.com or follow our official www.shk.qsi.org from all over the world. We are proud to The options of full-time (RMB12,000 to 15,000 per month) or part-time (RMB70-90 per 南山区蛇口太子路 8 号碧涛中心 2 楼 provide private, personalized healthcare for hour) employment are available. each patient. Our experienced staff from For inquiries and application, please contact Ms. Hu at 13631593166 or WeChat account by scanning the QR code. Hong Kong, Mainland China and overseas QSI International School of Shenzhen 075522909515. (Futian) A1, TCL Science Park, No. 1001 provide comprehensive medical services including general and specialty outpatient Zhongshan Yuan, Nanshan District (8371 Mobile Game company business development position. 7108) 中山园路1001号TCL 科学园区A1栋 services, health assessments, inpatient services and more. Scan QR Code above A NASDAQ listed Shenzhen based mobile game company iDreamSky is looking for an Shekou International School for more info of IMC. 深圳市福田区海园一路， expat for one business development position, native English speaker and fluent in Jingshan Villas, Gongye Er Lu, Shekou, Nan- 香港大学深圳医院国际医疗中心 International Mandarin a must, well versed with mobile games or business negotiation experience a shan District (2669 3669). www.sis.org.cn Medical Centre，The University of Hong Kong plus. Responsible for looking for Western games suitable for the Chinese market and 南山区蛇口工业二路鲸山别墅内 - Shenzhen Hospital, 1, Haiyuan 1st Road, contacting the game developers. Our office is located in NanShan district, Shenzhen. If Futian District, Shenzhen （0755-86913388） interested, please send resume to Evan at email: [email protected] Shen Wai International School 29 Baishi San Lu, Nanshan (8654 1200, www.swis.cn) NYPD New York Pizza Delivery 1) Shop Little Papa Indian Restaurant #116, 深圳外国语学校国际部南山区白石三道 29 号 MOVING & SHIPPING FOOD & DRINK 26, Haichang Jie, 1 Gongyuan Nan Lu Building 6, Nanhai E-Cool, Taizi Lu, Shekou, BUSINESS (8887 6973) 2) 3 Fuhua Yi Lu, by Zhongxin Nanshan District (2686 0020) 南山区蛇口太 NIGHTLIFE AMERICAN Si Lu (8887 6973) 1) 南山区 公园南路1号海尚 子路南海意库6栋116号 Regus Serviced Office 雷格斯服务式办公室 AGS Four Winds is leading international moving company offers a full range 国际26号铺 2)福田区 福华一路中心城FL1015商铺 HOTEL • Flexible office leases from 1 day to 1 year relocation, moving, and storage services. Our global network of over 300 offices Futian Shangri-La Hotel Shenzhen No.4088 • Quick and easy to set up for 1-200 people worldwide plus 40 years experience in the moving industry, we know your concerns Element Fresh 1) 1/F, Zone B, Sea World, Yitian Lu, Futian District (8828 4088). • Prices from RMB180 per month and have the ability to serve you anywhere in the world. Shekou, Nanshan District (2681 4848) 2) JAPANESE 福田区益田路 4088 号福田香格里拉大酒店 • Find more on Regus.cn We are FAIM & ISO 9001-2008 accredited, members of the FAIM and FIDI. L2-7/7A, Wongtee Plaza, 118 Fuhua San FRENCH • Tel: 400 120 1207 1) Futian Anlian, 26/F, Anlian Centre- Contact us for FREE survey and quotation: Lu, Futian District (8323 7249) 1) 南山区海上 Four Seasons Hotel Shenzhen 138 Fuhua Tel: +8620 8363 3735/ +86 139 2277 1676 BOA 3/F, West side of International Bar No.4018 Jintian Road, Futian District; 2) 世界广场B区B130-210号 2) 福田区福华三路118 San Lu, Futian District (8826 8888) Email: [email protected] 号皇庭国商购物广场L2-7/7A号 Belle-Vue Grill 37/F, Grand Hyatt Shen- Street, Sea World, Shekou, Nanshan District 深圳市福田区福华三路 138 号 A8 Building, 15/F, A8 Building, No.1002 zhen, 1881 Bao'an Nan Lu, Luohu District (130 4894 9034) 南山区蛇口海上世界国际酒 Keyuan Road Tech Zone, Nanshan District; Website: www.agsfourwinds.com Baia Burger Concept 1C-077-078A, 1/F, (2218 7338) 罗湖区宝安南路1881号君悦酒 吧街西侧三楼 Grand Hyatt Shenzhen No.1881 Baoan Nan 3) Futian NEO, 44/F, NEO Tower A, No.6011 Shopping Park, Fuhua San Lu, Futian 店37楼 Lu, Luohu District (8266 1234) www.shen- Shennan Avenue Futian District; 4) SCC, Rayca Moving & Transportation Services District (8290 6696) 福田区福华三路购物 公 Tang Ben Jia #FL1011, L/F, Yijing Central zhen.grand.hyatt.com 罗湖区宝安南路1881号 7/F, Tower A, SCC Financial Centre, Junction With 10 years experience, Rayca provides international, domestic, local moving services 园一楼078A L’etoile Building A 302-303, Ecological Walk Shopping Mall, 3 Fuhua Yi Lu, Futian of Houhai Avenue & First Haide Avenue Nan- & pet relocation service. We can effectively move you anywhere at competitive prices! shan District; 5) New World Centre, 23/F, PLAZA, OCT, Nanshan District (8166 8111) District (8280 1086) 福田区福华一路3号怡景中 Hardrock Hotel Shenzhen， Hard Rock You move, you save! Morton's Grille New World Centre, No.6009 Yitian Road N901 PAFC Mall, Ping An 南山区华侨城生态广场A 栋302-303 心城广场L楼FL1011号 Cafe Shenzhen，No.9 Misson Hills Service hotline: 400-048-9099 Finance Center, 5033 Yitian Road, Futian Road,Shenzhen，0755-3395 2888 深圳硬石 Futian District; 6) Times Financial Centre, District (8326 8333) 深圳市福田区益田路5033 La Maison Shop 108, Nanhai Rose Garden, Bincho Ya L120-121, Bldg 2, Times Square 酒店 深圳观澜高尔夫大道9号 14/F Times Financial Centre, No. 4001 Email: [email protected] 号平安金融中心N901 91 Wanghai Lu, Nanshan District (2685 Excellence, Fuhua Lu, Futian District (8278 Shennan Avenue Futian District; 7) New Website:www.raycatrans.com 7030) 南山区望海路91号南海玫瑰花园108号 2760) 福田区福华路卓越时代广场二期L120 Hilton Shenzhen Shekou Nanhai 1177, Times Plaza, 3/F, New Times Plaza,No.1 Hard Rock Cafe Shenzhen 9 Mission Hills －L121店 Wanghai Lu, Nanshan District Taizi Road Shekou District; 8) Panglin Plaza, Blvd, Longhua New District (3395 2888) 龙 Taste Moment Restaurant 1st floor, Bldg 深圳蛇口希尔顿南海酒店 南山区望海路 1177 号 35/F, Panglin Plaza, No.2002 Jiabin Road 华新区观澜高尔夫大道9号www.hardrockhotels. 1, Block A, 1979 Cultural and Creative Park, Komachi －B-132, North Side, Shopping The George & Dragon is a quintessential (2162 8888) Luohu District; 1)深圳安联中心, 深圳市福田区 com/shenzhen 1011 Qiaoxiang Lu, Futian District (8255 Park, Futian District (8290 5806) 福田区购物 British Pub; good draft beers, ales, and 金田路4018号安联大厦26层; 2) 深圳A8大厦,深圳 6173) 福田区侨香路1011号1979文化生活新领 公园北园B区132号 cider; comforting pub food and great BBQ; Hilton Shenzhen Futian Town B, Great China 市南山区科技园科园路1002号A8大厦15层; 3)深 Blue Frog Shop 28, 2/F, Wongtee Plaza, 域A区1栋1层 non-stop sports on three screens; secluded International Finance Centre, 1003 Shennan 圳NEO大厦, 深圳市福田区深南大道6011号NEO 118 Fuhua San Lu, Futian District (8255 beer garden. Your home away from home. Dadao, Futian District (2130 8888) 企业大道A座44层; 4) 深圳中洲控股金融中心, 深圳 3646) 福田区福华三路118号皇庭国商购物广场 Kyoku Japanese Cuisine B-17 Qushui Also available for catering your parties and 福田区深南大道1003号大中华国际金融中心B座 市南山区后海大道与海德一道交汇处中洲控股金融 2层28铺 Bay, OCT Bay, 50 Baishi Lu East, Nanshan events. www.george-dragon.com; e-mail: 中心A座7层; 5) 深圳新世界中心, 深圳市福田区益 GERMAN District (8654 1122) 南山区白石路东50号欢乐 [email protected]; tel: 2669 田路6009号新世界中心23层; 6) 深圳时代金融中 海岸曲水湾B-17 8564; Shop 3, behind Taizi Hotel, Taizi Lu JW Marriott Shenzhen No.6005 Shennan 心, 深圳市福田区深南大道4001号时代金融中心14 5, Shekou. 南山区太子路5号太子宾馆1楼后排 Dadao, Futian District. (2269 8888) 层; 7) 深圳时代广场, 深圳市蛇口区太子路1号新时 Nishimura 1F, Macro Polo Hotel, Fuhua Yi 3号商铺 福田区深南大道 6005 号 代广场3层; 8) 深圳彭年广场, 深圳市罗湖区嘉宾路 ITALIAN Haxnbauer 1) L1C-055B, 1/F, Coco Park, Lu, by Mintian Lu (3339 7709) 深圳市福田中 2002号彭年广场 Fuhua San Lu, Futian District (8359 2080) 心区福华一路马哥孛罗好日子酒店1楼 Club Viva No. 140, Fuhua Lu, Coco Park, JW Marriott Shenzhen Bao’an 8 Baoxing Lu, 2) L1-15, Raffles City, 2163 Nanhai Ave, Futian District 福田区福华路城建购物公园 Baoan District (2323 8888) China-Italy Chamber of Commerce Artisans 1/F, Block A, Poly Cultural Center, Nanshan District (8652 6580) 1) 福田区福华 140 号 深圳前海华侨城 JW 万豪酒店 , 宝安区宝兴路 8 号 Rm220, 2/F, International Chamber Of Houhaibin Lu, by Haide San Dao (8628 三路星河Coco Park一楼L1C-055B 2) 南山区南 Commerce, Fuhua San Lu, Futian District 7109) 南山区 保利文化广场A区40号店铺 海大道2163号福士广场L1-15 VIETNAMESE Dazzle Club 3/F, Central Commercial Build- Marco Polo Shenzhen Fuhua Yi Lu, (Tel: 8632 9518; Fax: 8632 9528). www. ing, No.88 Fuhua 1st Road, Futian District CBD, Futian District (8298 9888). www. cameraitacina.com ` Blue Italian Seafood & Grill Restaurant Paulaner Brauhaus 1) C-005, Huanchuan (2348 1542) 福田区民田路中心商务大厦三楼 cn.marcopolohotels.com 福田中心区福华一路 福田区福华三路国际商会中心 2 楼 220 室 3/F, The Venice Raytour Hotel Shenzhen, Square, Sea World, Shekou, Nanshan Dis- 9026 Shennan Dadao, Nanshan District trict (2668 7230) 2) 8/F, Shop 801, PAFC Lian Shop 562, 5/F, The MIXC Shenzhen, McCawley’s Irish Bar 1) Shop 151-152, Shangri-La Hotel East of the Luohu Train European Union Chamber of Commerce (2693 6888) 南山区深南大道9026号深圳威尼斯 Mall, Ping’An Finance Centre, 5033 Yi Tian Luohu District (8266 6366) 罗湖区万象城商 Coco Park, Futian District (2531 3599) 2) Station, Jianshe Lu, Luohu District (8233 Rm 308, 3/F Overseas Chinese Scholars 睿途酒店3楼意大利餐厅 Road, Futian District (8253 5187) 1) 南山 场5楼562铺 Shop 118, Sea World, Shekou, Nanshan 0888). www.shangri-la.com Venture Building, southern section of High- 区蛇口海上世界环船广场C-005 2)福田区益田路 District (2668 4496) 罗湖区建设路火车站东侧 Tech Industrial Park, Nanshan District (Tel: Muine 1) L2-203, Coco Park, Fuhua San Lu, 1) 福田区购物公园151- Baia Restaurant Bar Grill B301, Bldg B, 5033号平安金融中心8楼801 152 2) 南山区蛇口海上世界广场118号 8635 0920; fax: 8632 9785). Zone B, Sea World Square, Shekou, Nan- Futian District (8271 2527) 2) B139 and Sheraton Dameisha Resort 9 Yankui Lu, 南山高新科技园南区留学生创业大厦 3 楼 308 室 shan District (2681 8836) 南山区蛇口海上世 B139-2, B1/F, Jiufang Shopping Mall, Shen- Pepper Club 2/F, Shopping Park, Fuhua Dameisha, (8888 6688) 界广场B区3楼B301 nan Zhong Lu, Futian District (2681 7828) Lu, Fustian District (8319 9040) 福田区福华 盐田大梅沙盐葵路 ( 大梅沙段 )9 号 French Chamber of Commerce in South SPANISH 1) 福田区福华三路COCOParkL2-203 2) 福田区 路购物公园二楼 China (CCIFC) Room 318, 3/F Chinese La Terrazza 1/F, Grand Hyatt Shenzhen, 深南中路华强北九方购物中心B1层139&B139-2 St. Regis Shenzhen No.5016 Shennan Overseas Scholars Venture Building,South 1881 Baoan Nan Lu, by Jiabing Lu (2218 The Terrace Above Starbucks, Sea World Dong Lu, Luohu District.(8308 8888) section of Hi-tech Industry Park, Nanshan 7338) 深圳市罗湖区宝安南路1881号深圳君 Mon Saigon Block B, 1979 Cultural and Plaza, Shekou, Nanshan District (2682 深圳瑞吉酒店 罗湖区深南东路 5016 号 District (Tel: 8632 9602; fax: 8632 9736) 悦酒店 El Toro Spanish Restaurant and Bar Rm Creative Park, by Qiaoxiang Lu, Futian 122/123, East Block, Coastal Building, 9105) 南山区蛇口海上世界广场2 楼星巴克楼上 www.ccifc.org 南山区科技园南区留学生创业大 District (8270 3282) 福田区侨香路1979文化 The Langham, Shenzhen, No. 7888, Shen- 厦3楼318室 Paletto 2/F, The Ritz-Carlton, 116 Fuhua Haide San Dao, Nanshan District (133- 生活新领域B区 nan Dadao, Futian District (8828 9888). 0231 2550) San Lu, Futian District (2222 2222) 福田区福 南山区海德三道海岸大厦东座一楼 深圳朗廷酒店，福田区深南大道 7888 号 German Chamber of Commerce 华三路116号深圳星河丽思卡尔顿酒店二层 122-123铺 Pho Nam 1) Shop B26C, Link City Passage, 217 Chinese Overseas Scholars Venture by Fuhua Lu (8255 7048) 福田区连城新天地 The Ritz-Carlton, Shenzhen 116 Fuhua San Ling Spanish Kitchen 1011 Qiao Xiang EDUCATION Building, Hi-Tech Industrial Park, Nanshan Oggi Trattoria Pizzeria 3-14 Golden B26C商铺 Lu, Futian District (2222 2222) District. (8635 0487) www.china.ahk.de Century Lu, Phase 3, Coastal Rose Garden, Dong Lu, 1979 Cultural Park (8322 7522) American International School, No. 福田区福华三路 116 号 南山区高新科技园南区留学生创业大厦 217 Shekou, Nanshan District (2689 0118) 南 侨香东路1011号1979文化新天地B区1层 82,Gongyuan Lu, Shekou,Nanshan District 山区蛇口金世纪路南海玫瑰花园三期金世纪路 (8619 4750) The Venice Raytour Hotel Shenzhen The American Chamber of Commerce in 3-14号 THAI 南山区蛇口公园路82号青少年活动中心 No.9026, Shennan Dadao, Overseas Chi- South China Rm 208, 2/F Overseas Chinese nese Town, Nanshan District (2693 6888) Scholars Venture Building, southern section PIZZA INDIAN Green Oasis School 深圳威尼斯睿途酒店 南山区华侨城深南大道 9026 号 of High-Tech Industrial Park, Nanshan Dis- No 4030, Shennan Middle Road, Tianmian, trict (Tel: 0755-2658 8342; fax: 0755-2658 The Terrace Restaurant & Bar #201, Sea Futian District. (8399 6712) admission@ World Square, 32 Taizi Lu, Shekou, Nanshan The Westin Shenzhen 9028-2 Shennan 8341). www.amcham-southchina.org greenoasis.org.cn www.greenoasis.org.cn Dadao, Nanshan District (2698 8888) Pizza Express Shop 568, 5/F, the MixC, Bombay Indian Restaurant & Bar Shops District (2682 9105) 南山区蛇口太子路32号海 福田区田面村深南中路 4030 号 1881 Bao'an Nan Lu, Luohu District (2215 20-24, Sea World, Nanshan District (2667 上世界广场商铺201 www.westin.com/shenzhen 南山区深南大道 The British Chamber of Commerce, Shen- 9028号-2 9036) 罗湖区宝安南路1881号万象城5楼568 6049) 南山区海上世界商铺20-24号 International School of Nanshan Shenzhen zhen Sub-Chamber Rm 314, 3/F Overseas 号商铺 Very Siam 1/F, A3 Bldg, Xiangshan Dong A Canadian school accepting application Chinese Scholars Venture Building, southern Saffron Indian Restaurant and Bar Floor Jie, OCT-Loft, Nanshan District (8623 3225) for Pre-Grade 1 through Grade 12. 11 section of High-Tech Industrial Park, Nan- Kiwi Pizza 1) Shop B14, COCO Park, by B1, Jinhu Hotel, 1005 Wenjin Lu, Luohu 南山区OCT创意园香山东街A3栋1楼 Longyuan Lu, Taiyuan Sub-District, Nanshan shan District (Tel: 2658 8350). 深圳市南山区 Fuhua Lu (8329 2299) 2) 8 Outlets Minkang District (8219 1115) 罗湖区文锦中路1005号锦 District (2666 1000, 2606 6968). admis- HEALTH 高新科技园南区留学生创业大厦3楼314室 Lu, by Huanan Lu 3) B1, 138 Mintian Lu, by 湖宾馆地下一层 [email protected] www.isnsz.com Fuhua Yi Lu 1) 福田区 购物公园B1楼地铁商业街 南山区龙源路11号 HarMoniCare Women & Children's Hospital Morefoods No1,1F,Building A ,OCEAN B14铺 2)龙华新区 奥特莱斯8号仓店 3) 福田区 民 Indian Cottage Shop 48-49, 2/F, Area A, 12018 Shennan Dadao, by Nanshan Dadao city Garden,Shekou New Street, Nanshan 田路138号购物公园B1楼 Poly Cultural Centre, Wenxin Wu Lu, Nan- Merchiston International School, Shenzhen (3339 1333) 深圳和美妇儿科医院 南山区深南大 District,shenzhen (0755-8827 9078) 深圳市 shan District (8628 7265) 南山区文心五路保 No. 12 Shilongzai Road, Daliang Sub- 道12018号 南山区蛇口新街澳城花园A栋一楼1号铺 利文化广场A区2楼48-49号商铺

74 | SZ | MAY 2018 | WWW.THATSMAGS.COM WWW.THATSMAGS.COM | MAY 2018 | SZ | 75 MAY That’s ShenzhenHoroscopes Finally, a horoscope that understands your life in Shenzhen. BY DOMINIQUE WONG

Taurus Gemini Cancer Leo 4.21~5.21 5.22~6.21 6.22~7.22 7.23~8.23

You’re itching to travel but this is Home takes focus with renovations With Saturn opposing your sign, Your favorite time of the year is fast not your month. Instead, opt for a and redecorating lighting up your things will get a little testy this month. approaching: ‘Beijing bikini’ season. staycation in Dapeng Peninsula. stars. Trawl your ‘buy & sell’ WeChat Depending on your hobbies this may Prepare by eating copious amounts Pretend you’re new to Shenzhen: groups for a good deal on sofa beds mean a doctor’s visit, Evil Duck pub of jianbing and scaling back your marvel at the Ping An IFC and when but always inspect before you buy. quiz or HSK exam. Down a shot of workouts to zero. No pain, no gain. you spot your colleague at the hotel Employ a feng shui master for good baijiu every morning for good luck. And don't forget the sunscreen. bar, ignore them. measure.

Virgo Libra Scorpio Sagittarius 8.24~9.23 9.24~10.23 10.24~11.22 11.23~12.21

Your new ‘consultancy’ job turns out While your fairness is admirable, Your glass is half-full this month – Congratulations on staying in to mean American college admission it’s time to get off the fence when literally, the water in your apartment Shenzhen for this long. Celebrate by advisor and you’re not even from the your landlord proposes a rent hike will mysteriously turn off at the getting the hell outta the heat. Try US. Oh well, at least your office is because of the new trash-sorting crappiest moment, like when you get Harbin – there’s a beer museum and in Houhai, Shenzhen’s best spot for policy, which in no way affected your a bad bout of food poisoning from quality dumplings there, or so we window-shopping. Stop referring to it urban village neighborhood. What a the street cart outside. No worries, hear. as ‘K-town,’ though. load of garbage! though, eh Scorps.

Capricorn Aquarius Pisces Aries 12.22~1.20 1.21~2.19 2.20~3.20 3.21~4.20

Live a little. Like, try Mobiking a You have three planets in your sign You’re in an even dreamier mood than It’s time for your visa run but you’re different route to work or order this month meaning that you must usual this month so be on high alert “over” going to Hong Kong. Try something new on Shenzhen Eat do everything in threes at all times. when wandering though your urban somewhere farther out, like Taiwan (do you really need another sexy Drink three Tsingtao, eat three bowls village or MixC, lest you end up in or South Korea. Though electrical salad??). Or, try Meituan: their of zhajiangmian, date in threes and the wrong public square entirely. Eat glitches are rife this month, so make delivery fee is cheaper and money is you get the point ;). zhou everyday for good luck. sure you book the correct date. Pack tight this month. red underwear only.

76 | SZ | MAY 2018 | WWW.THATSMAGS.COM