China Intercontinental Press Advertising Hotline 城市漫步珠 国内统一刊号: 三角英文版 SHIFTING TIDES: that's guangzhou CN 11-5234/GO 05月份 Follow Us on WeChat Now CHINA’S BOAT PEOPLE MAY 2018 that's shenzhen PLOT AN UNCERTAIN COURSE British National Curriculum Chinese Traditional Culture STEAM Courses Enroll before 31 May to take advantage of a 20% discount on tuition fee for the academic year 2018-2019! CIS GUANGZHOU SPRING MUSIC CONCERT A COLLECTION OF ICONIC CANADIAN MUSIC WOAH, Featuring all students, CANADA!! from Pre-K to G12 THURSDAY 17th MAY 2018 2pm | CIS THEATRE, NEW CAMPUS!! Hosted by Mr Planert We welcome all the CIS families and community to this very special musical showpiece at our brand new campus in Merchant Hill. that’s PRD 《城市漫步》珠江三角洲 英文月刊 WIN WIN WIN Editor's Note MAY 2018 For this month’s cover story, we’ve taken it upon ourselves to introduce Hourly updates on news, current affairs 主管单位 : 中华人民共和国国务院新闻办公室 Supervised by the State Council Information Office of the People's Republic of China you to the neighbors you didn’t know you had: the shuishangren, or and general weirdness from around 主办单位 : 五洲传播出版社 ‘people on the water’ in English. Shanghai and China. 地址 : 北京西城月坛北街 26 号恒华国际商务中心南楼 11 层文化交流中心 More commonly – and controversially – known as Tanka people, FOLLOW US ON SOCIAL MEDIA 11th Floor South Building, Henghua lnternational Business Center, 26 Yuetan North Street, Xicheng District, Beijing populations of shuishangren are found in various parts of the Pearl http://www.cicc.org.cn facebook.com/thatsonline 社长 President: 陈陆军 Chen Lujun River Delta (Hong Kong, Dongguan and Foshan, to name a few), and on 期刊部负责人 Supervisor of Magazine Department: 付平 Fu Ping pages 34-43, we offer an insight into the lives of these river- and sea- We’re giving away tickets to twitter.com/thatsonline 编辑 Editor: 朱莉莉 Zhu Lili 发行 Circulation: 李若琳 Li Ruolin faring folks while also exploring the modern-day challenges facing their centuries-old communities. youtube.com/thatsonline Editor-in-Chief Matthew Bossons some of the very best events Shenzhen Editor Adam Robbins In our City section, on pages 10-13, we look at the important in the Pearl River Delta, #THATSSHANGHAI Guangzhou Editor Daniel Plafker work being done by PFLAG China, named for – but unaffiliated with – Shenzhen Digital Editor Bailey Hu America’s Parents and Friends of Lesbians and Gays. We’ve also included alongside a host of free meals Senior Staff Writer Tristin Zhang a two-page photo essay from our colleagues in Beijing profiling China’s National Arts Editor Erica Martin and other goodies. Follow Contributors Lena Gidwani, Bryan Grogan, Mia Li, Winnie Jin, Erica Martin, Noelle Mateer, Dominic Ngai, Dominique Wong ‘Weird Architecture’ era (pages 14-15). Elsewhere in our May issue, we give you a breakdown of the best our official WeChat feeds HK FOCUS MEDIA PRD-based events from this year’s Festival Croisements (page 32), pay and sign up for our weekly Shanghai (Head Office) 上海和舟广告有限公司 a post-quake visit to Hualien in Taiwan (page 22) and meet the folks 上海市蒙自路 169 号智造局 2 号楼 305-306 室 邮政编码 : 200023 working to save Shenzhen’s coral reefs (page 45). newsletter for your chance to Room 305-306, Building 2, No.169 Mengzi Lu, Shanghai 200023 Catch you all in June, ThatsGuangzhou 电话 : 传真 : win major prizes! 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C1-1303, Galaxy Century Building, Caitian Lu, Futian District, Shenzhen 电话 : 0755-8623 3220 传真 : 0755-6406 8538 Matthew Bossons ThatsShenzhen Beijing 北京联络处 北京市东城区东直门外大街 48 号东方银座 C 座 G9 室 邮政编码 : 100027 Editor-in-Chief 9G, Block C, Ginza Mall, No. 48 Dongzhimen Wai Dajie, Dongcheng District, Beijing, 100027 电话 : 010-8447 7002 传真 : 010-8447 6455 General Manager Henry Zeng Operations Manager Rachel Tong Accountant Annie Qi Production Supervisor Jack Lin Designer Felix Chen Sales Managers Celia Yu, Justin Lu Account Manager Wesley Zhang Senior BD Executive Nicole Tang Account Executives Annie Li, Tia Weng Sales Assistant Sunnie Lü Marketing Supervisor Fish Lin Senior Marketing Executive Shumin Li Marketing Executives Peggy Ni, Kathy Chen Distribution Luo Zhi, He Wei Wen National Operation CEO Leo Zhou Head of Communication Ned Kelly National Digital Business Director Vickie Guo HR/Admin Director Penny Li Financial Manager Laura Lu Digital Content Manager Bridget O'Donnell Digital Miller Yue, Amanda Bao, Orange Wang, Yu Sun, Elsa Yang, Jimmy Mi, Kane Zhu, Wayne Wu General enquiries and switchboard (020) 8358 6125 [email protected] Editorial (020) 8358 9847 ext 808 [email protected] Sales (Guangzhou) (020) 8358 9847 ext 802 [email protected] (Shenzhen) (0755) 8623 3210 ext 801 Distribution/Subscription (020) 8358 7749 ext 828 Listings & Events (Guangzhou) (020) 8358 9847 ext 808. (Shenzhen) (0755) 8623 3220 Web & IT (021) 5238 5459 Fax (020) 8363 3759 ext. 816 www.thatsmags.com 广告经营许可证 : 京海工商厂字第 8069 号 法律大部 : 大成律师事务所 魏君贤律师 Distribution Legal advisor: Wei Junxian, Dacheng Law Firm across the 国际标准刊号 : ISSN 1672-8041 国内统一刊号 : CN 11-5233/GO Pearl River ： Delta: 63,000 定价 : 25.00 元 邮发代号 46-193 copies 如发现印刷装订问题 , 请与广州白云天马印刷厂联系 部分非卖品 , 仅限赠阅 2 | SZ | MAY 2018 | WWW.THATSMAGS.COM WWW.THATSMAGS.COM | MAY 2018 | SZ | 3 6 CITY 34 COVER STORY ON TIDES OF CHANGE 7 MAN ON THE STREET Examining the uncertain future of China’s boat dwellers, the Tanka Eel monger: a slippery, people. slithering sales job. 10 A DECADE SPEAKING OUT PFLAG China marks 10 years. 16 LIFE & STYLE 44 COMMUNITY 19 DAYTRIPPER Shuilianshan Forest Park. 22 SHAKEN UP Traveling in post- quake Hualien. 68 EVENTS 26 ARTS SZ 27 CHEN TONG The artistic mind behind video bureau. MAY 17-20 30 MINDING THE DIGITAL Tomorrow Festival Visions of our future at the Sea World Culture and Arts Center. HK MAY 18-20 54 EAT & Affordable Art Fair DRINK MO 58 WEIRD EATS OF THE PRD Take a walk on the wild side. 60 WANN LOUNGE Peak chic. MAY 22 Feast of the Drunken Dragon THE WRAP 4 | SZ | MAY 2018 | WWW.THATSMAGS.COM MAN ON THE STREET CITY Shooting Stars The photographer documenting China’s ‘Weird Architecture’ era, p14 THE DIRTY DETAILS EEL MONGER Monthly income: RMB2,000 and up A Slippery, Slithering Sales Job Days per week: 7 Hours per day: 12 (4am-4pm) By Daniel Plafker r. Xie wears boots to fish markets everywhere. Xie, whose stall can be found he maintains that the creatures work. And if you plan It strikes a marked contrast near the southeast corner of the can survive up to a month in Mto visit him while he’s with the stately, peaceful airs of market, not far from the ferry their crowded tanks. on the job, we recommend you Shamian Island, which lies just pier, has a singular focus in his Business is brisker in the consider doing the same. That’s across a narrow moat to the east. product range: eels. Two main wintertime than the summer, by because Xie’s place of work is The floor is a mire of guts, scales, varieties, the larger of which is Xie’s estimate. He suspects that the Huangsha Aquatic Products dark puddles and crisscrossing as thick as a human arm, squirm this is because people prefer to Market, aka Guangzhou’s biggest streams of mysterious liquids. and writhe in Medusa-like piles eat eel in cold weather. The best trading center for fish, crabs, Hence the rubber footwear. in large glass tanks. It’s a scene preparation? “Steamed, with a clams, prawns, crocodiles and It’s not the prettiest place reminiscent the 2004 art-house bit of soy sauce,” Xie says with every other type of seafood that that Guangzhou has to offer film Anacondas 2: The Hunt for confidence. At RMB60 for a half the rivers, bays and fish farms of visitors but it’s certainly one the Blood Orchid. Their warden, kilo, there are cheaper, less South China can muster. not to miss. There’s something the amiable Mr. Xie, is an early squirmy meals on offer at the The market’s winding lanes strangely beautiful about the riser, arriving at 4am each market, but few that are likely to of huddled stalls and multi-level, stacked masses of doomed sea morning to begin his 12-hour put up as much of a fight. open-air warehouse section life and, between the sights, workday. are a storm of commercial smells and deafening noise of “That’s not even early by activity. Terrified sea life of hollering hawkers and bellowing our standards,” he insists. “Some every imaginable variety flop buyers, there are few places in folks have been setting up their desperately from brimming the city that offer a comparable stalls for an hour already by the tanks and barrels, specially blast of sensory stimulation. time I get here.” kitted-out trucks-turned- Not to mention, it’s a trove of Xie has spent 10 long years aquariums rumble through the ingredients for the culinarily- hawking his slithering charges, crowded alleys at a snail’s pace inclined. all of which are farmed – not and beleaguered men hurry There are even a few shops wild-caught – elsewhere in from stall to stall dragging nets, on the upper levels that will kill, Guangdong. City Snapshot PFLAG China stacking traps and pushing carts gut and cook up your purchases “A truck comes with fresh P8 P10 of shellfish amid the pronounced for you on the spot.