DANIEL HUMM DECEMBER 2017 DECEMBER ISSUE144

THE ART ISSUE DESTINATION DESTINATION

complex in November, and British chef Jason Atherton is expected to open his second restaurant inside The Edition hotel on East by spring 2018. The blossoming culinary scene has been matched by a growing appetite for the arts. The West Bund has trans- formed into a breeding ground for the creative class, where some of the best-

Shanghai curated museums and galleries have replaced the abandoned aircraft facto- ries from decades ago. It’s also the site of the annual West Bund Art & Design Fair, with the most recent edition showcasing works from 70 Chinese and international galleries. By 2019, the area will welcome an outpost of Centre Pompidou, which will occupy a gallery in the forthcoming West Bund Art Museum designed by British architect David Chipperfield. The collaboration between the renowned Paris modern-art institution and the West Bund Group—the mastermind and developer behind Shanghai’s own “Museum Mile”—will serve as an important symbol of cultural exchange between France and China. Also in the works is the Dream Center, an enter- tainment venture with ambitions to host Tinseltown-grade film premieres and world-class performing arts. Over in the M50 art district, construction on Heatherwick Studio’s “1,000 Trees” project—an expansive mixed-use development of homes, schools, and China’s most vibrant city to its position as a major port city since the world’s second tallest; the Kohn retail designed to resemble a 3-D for- the 19th century, Shanghai has always Pederson Fox–designed Shanghai est—is also underway. is undergoing a glamorous attracted a large expatriate community, World Financial Center, a.k.a. the Major transformations aren’t hap- transformation that’s whose imprint is reflected in the build- “Bottle Opener”; Jin Mao Tower, by pening just on a macro infrastructural putting it on par with ings of its various neighborhoods— the firm SOM; and the spaceship-like level: The 25 million residents here especially in the former International Oriental Pearl TV Tower, by architect have seen the makeup of their city con- some of the world’s biggest Settlement and French Concession, Jiang Huancheng. tinue to evolve. One thing that has left culture capitals. where a lasting European impact is evi- Across the river, —a mile- a deep impression on me since my first dent in the city’s architectural heritage. long riverside boulevard lined with visit to in 1998, and even more after I BY DOMINIC NGAI But to simply label the city an intersec- dozens of classic European-style became a full-time resident in 2009, tion of East and West doesn’t quite do buildings that housed the regional is the city’s raw, palpable energy. In it justice. Here, these opposing forces headquarters of trading companies recent years, Shanghai has attracted “Build, build, build” has been China’s don’t just meet: In the new millen- and foreign banks a century ago—has young professionals and entrepreneurs mantra ever since former leader Deng nium, they’ve collided at full speed and morphed into an epicurean and enter- from other cities in China and around Xiaoping launched the country’s trans- amalgamated to transform the city into tainment destination filled with res- the world who want to capitalize on a formational economic improvement one of the world’s most important and taurants by renowned chefs such as market that’s still finding its way but program in the late 1970s. But of all eclectic financial centers. Jean-Georges Vongerichten and Joël has loads of growth potential. Some the mainland’s most improved munici- Shanghai changes often, and it Robuchon. A telling sign of the city’s say the vibrancy reminds them of the palities, Shanghai is perhaps the poster changes fast. What was all farmland prosperity, the list of heavyweight glamorous 1920s and ’30s, and that the child for China’s rapid fiscal growth on the eastern side of the Huangpu chef arrivals continues to grow year city has simply regained its mojo after and urban development in recent years. River just a few decades ago is now the after year. This past summer, Pierre a few tumultuous decades in the mid- While other first-tier cities like Lujiazui Financial District, famous for Gagnaire debuted Le Comptoir at 20th century. “It’s like New York on Beijing or Guangzhou have also the Blade Runner–esque structures the new Capella hotel in the former steroids,” said a friend, summing up Exterior view of Dong Liang. View seen major infrastructural changes, that comprise Shanghai’s iconic sky- French Concession, Yannick Alléno what life in Shanghai feels like today. I from the roof bar of The Waterhouse Shanghai has an advantage in its long line: The 128-story Shanghai Tower by unveiled his Terroir Parisien bistro at couldn’t agree more. > at South Bund. (OPPOSITE) Bar lobby in The Puli Hotel and Spa. history as an international hub. Thanks Gensler, China’s tallest building and the Raffles City Changning shopping THE PULI. COURTESY PHOTO: THE WATERHOUSE. DONG LIANG. COURTESY COURTESY TOP) (FROM PHOTOS:

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HOTELS It’s been a busy year for Shanghai’s homage to the era’s Jazz Age aesthetics structures from the Ming and Qing hospitality industry, with numerous with Chinese and French touches. Two dynasties—the property was trans- high-profile openings. The standout is highly anticipated arrivals debut this ported nearly 435 miles to its new Capella Shanghai, Jian Ye Li, housed month, including China’s fourth Aman home in . Kerry Hill in one of the few remaining clusters outpost, Amanyangyun. Constructed Architects and landscaping specialists of traditional townhouses. Originally in an ancient forest of camphor trees— from Dan Pearson Studio outfitted the built in the 1930s as residences for a painstaking process overseen by 24 wood-clad suites and 13 antique vil- upper-class families and expatriates, experts hired by entrepreneur and phi- las with courtyards, outdoor freestand- Jaya International Design restored lanthropist Ma Dadong that included ing tubs, and the occasional plunge the interiors of the villas, which pay the restoration of abandoned stone pool. Meanwhile, near bustling West

Living room in Amanyangyun. A studio room in The Middle House. PHOTOS: COURTESY AMAN. COURTESY THE MIDDLE HOUSE. AMAN. COURTESY COURTESY PHOTOS:

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RESTAURANTS AND BARS The importation of celebrity chefs from the West has started to influence Chinese toque-wearers who generally keep a low profile. There isn’t a better example than hometown talent Tony Lu, whose star has risen thanks to a string of successful res- taurants housed in Concession-era vil- las in the . His lat- est is Fu He Hui, a shrine to haute veg- etarian cuisine. Natural materials such as stones and wood team with neutral- tone fabrics to create a Zen ambiance— just the setting in which to sample elaborate courses made with hypersea- sonal produce, including the tomato “ravioli,” with smoked mashed potato, egg yolk, pea, and onion powder. If Lu is pushing the boundaries of vegetarian ingredients at Fu He Hui, Paul Pairet’s Ultraviolet defies the norms of gas- tronomy altogether. The chef worked with Magma Design to conceive a mul- tisensory experience that transports 10 diners each night from Mr. & Mrs. Bund—another popular Pairet con- cept—to an undisclosed location for a 20-course tasting journey. Served in a room encased in a 360-degree pro- jection wall, each dish is paired with visual and audio effects, and matching scents. For instance, upon serving the “truffle burnt soup bread,” an image Nanijng Road, Italian architect Piero with handcrafted decorations such of a wintery forest appears, along Lissoni fused his Modernist approach as silk wall coverings and porcelain with the musky aroma of wet soil, to with local inspirations at The Middle vases. The spa’s tea-based treatments enhance the earthy taste of the dish. House: shellac-finished Chinese chests and chef Michael Wilson’s elegant Be warned: Seats don’t come cheap repurposed as sleek cabinets for the Michelin-starred French restaurant (around $600–$900, depending on the minibar; Chinese art incorporated into overlooking Jing’an Park are high- day of the week), and a three-month the headboards of beds. lights. At Waterhouse at South Bund, advance booking is standard. The flurry of ribbon cuttings has Shanghai-based architects Neri & Even as Chinese chefs continue to added variety to the landscape, but a Hu serve up a master class in the inte- raise their stature internationally, the few stalwarts remain as stellar as ever. gration of old and new, with the tact- wave of Western satellites has not Though Shanghai Tower’s J Hotel will ful transformation of a 1930s Japanese abated. One early pioneer was Jean- soon steal the title of the city’s high- army headquarters in the Cool Docks Georges Vongerichten, who brought est property when it opens next year, area. The public spaces and 19 rooms his eponymous fine-dining concept the 174-room Park Hyatt, on the top reference Shanghai’s classic - from New York to Three on the Bund, floors of the Shanghai World Financial style architecture with cracked con- a Neo-Renaissance-style building, in Center, is still the ultimate indulgence. crete and original exposed-brick walls, 2004. A makeover in 2016 by longtime Designer Tony Chi’s modern residence offset by blond-wood floors, Moooi collaborators Neri & Hu refashioned concept features a series of gates, halls, sofas, and a rust-colored Corten steel the original gentlemen’s-club look into and chambers lined with art installa- extension on the roof. Also on hand: a an airy, cream-colored space, which tions that connect various social ven- popular communal-style bistro serv- embraces the building’s Beaux-Arts ues high in the clouds, the 92nd-floor ing modern European dishes. Look for heritage with restored elements such as bar with ceramics by Liu Jianhua more big openings in 2018, including the foyer columns and cornices, while strung from the ceiling among them. an outpost of Ian Schrager’s power- window-side antique mirrors etched On the other end of the spectrum, the house Edition brand. with quotes from French philosophers minimalist Puli Hotel and Spa, in show glimpses of Shanghai’s skyline. Jing’an, offers a nice change of pace Two floors above, the firm was tapped from the over-the-top luxury offer- Junior bedroom in The Waterhouse at again for Vongerichten’s coastal Italian ings. Kume Sekkei Japan and Layan South Bund. (OPPOSITE FROM TOP) spot, Mercato, whose runaway success Design Group washed the interiors Dining area in Mercato and Highline. PHOTO: COURTESY THE WATERHOUSE. COURTESY PHOTO: RED DESIGN. COURTESY NERI&HU. COURTESY TOP) (FROM PHOTOS: has sparked spinoffs in Hong Kong and

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CULTURE Like New York and Los Angeles, fashion, and design. Founders and art converted an erstwhile airport Shanghai and Beijing have a longstand- collectors Liu Yiqian and Wang Wei hanger into the Yuz Museum, part ing sibling rivalry on a wide spectrum enlisted Atelier Deshaus to design the of Jakarta-based philanthropist Budi of issues. That includes art supremacy. brutalist West Bund Tek’s nonprofit foundation. Its mas- These days, Shanghai is giving the around a 1950s coal-hopper-unloading sive exhibition space has hosted major capital a run for its money. A con- bridge. The result is a monochromatic, shows such as Alberto Giacometti’s certed effort by the government to umbrella-vaulted structure whose “Retrospective” in 2016, and “Where boost its soft power and improve its minimalist curved walls and ceilings the End Starts,” by Brooklyn-based image on a global level has facilitated complement the industrial exterior. artist Kaws this summer. Next door is a cultural arms race. One of the most Visitors will find a collection of con- the Shanghai Center of Photography, JENNIFER BIN visible examples is the ongoing devel- temporary-realist paintings, and exhi- opened by Pulitzer Prize–winning DESIGNER AND opment of the West Bund, along the bitions by artists like James Turrell and photojournalist Liu Heung Shing PHOTOGRAPHER in the , Olafur Eliasson. and designed by American architects an area dedicated to the arts, media, Close by, architect Sou Fujimoto Sharon Johnston and Mark Lee. > “Café del Volcán is my favorite coffee shop in Shanghai. It was one of the city’s first specialty coffee shops and remains the best. The space on Yongkang Road only seats about eight people, but if you get there early, you can enjoy a nice flat white while watching the locals go about their day. The futuristic office spaces at Soho Fuxing Plaza, completed by GMP Architekten in 2015, became a go-to hangout for local photographers and visiting Instagrammers. The hallways are reminiscent of the iconic scene in Resident Evil.” Hangzhou. Exposed Victorian ceilings, housing bartender Shingo Gokan, timber canopies, and streetlamp-style himself a trailblazer of the craft-cock- lighting imbue the space with a rus- tail movement at New York’s Angel’s tic feel reminiscent of a market, albeit Share. Upon entering the Ocho bar- one with elevated cuisine: wood-fired supplies store on Middle Fuxing Road, pizza with black truffle, three cheeses, one encounters a trap bookshelf lead- and farm egg; porcini-crusted salmon ing to three distinctive rooms: a casual with warm leek vinaigrette and herbs. American tavern kitted out with a cop- A short walk away is The Nest, a per bar and floral-print ceiling, an inti- gastrolounge and one of the central mate den dedicated to small-batch dis- players in Shanghai’s cocktail revolu- tillers and elaborate garnishes, and a LYNDON NERI & tion. Designer Andy Hall from MQ rare whiskey lounge concealed behind ROSSANA HU Studio incorporated a minimalist an “Employees Only” sign. FOUNDERS OF NERI & HU Scandinavian aesthetic into an expan- Another fad making its way east? DESIGN AND RESEARCH sive dining room that conjures a Mad The all-day café. A must-visit for OFFICE Men–era loft, with midcentury lounge brunch is Highline, near the furniture and beige woven fabric pan- entertainment district, where culinary “We love to shop at Wondullful, els. Chef Freddy Raoult’s creative take power couple Anna Bautista and Sean in Jing’an District, for its eccen- on the cuisines of Northern Europe Jorgensen turn out modern American tric collection of accessories is reason enough to book a table, but dishes such as chicken and waffles and home décor products and the inventive drinks—try the Coco with bacon butter, and Southern- furniture. The original branch Django, a blend of lemongrass-infused style eggs Benedict with pulled pork. of Jesse, on Tianping Road in vodka, coconut rum, ginger liqueur, Taking a cue from the expansive tree- the former French Concession, and curry powder—keep patrons lined terrace, the owners and local is the best Shanghainese A view inside Café on Air. (OPPOSITE coming back again and again. There’s firm Red Design dreamed up the mid- restaurant; also try A Niang FROM TOP) Coffee area in the a joke among locals that speakeasy- century, California-inspired scheme, Mian Guan, a hole-in-the-wall Shanghai Center of Photography. style places now outnumber regular with low-slung, pastel-hued chairs and noodle shop on Sinan Road An installation by Tao Hui at the bars. Speak Low became a forerun- banquettes, mahogany credenzas, and where locals line up everyday ’s 2017 Hugo ner of the trend when it launched a a sunlit sky room that transitions into for their famous yellow croaker Boss Asia Art Exhibition. few years ago with a warren of spaces an intimate dining room. noodles.” PHOTO: TATIANA BAUTISTA. TATIANA PHOTO: MUSEUM. ART ROCKBUND COURTESY SHANGHAI CENTER OF PHOTOGRAPHY. COURTESY PHOTOS:

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SCoP’s programming is consistently impressive new buildings to join the strong. Case in point: the current exhi- landscape, the Bund Finance Center is bition “Acting Out,” by Wing Shya, a the first major collaboration between longtime collaborator of Hong Kong’s Foster + Partners and Heatherwick visionary filmmaker Wong Kar-Wai. Studio, and home to the new Fosun Running through Jan. 10, the show Foundation. Hundreds of rotating features more than 100 of Shya’s most bronze tubes, inspired by the cur- iconic works in film and print over his tains of a traditional Chinese theater, 25-year-long career, as well as photo- form the building’s facade and syn- graphs from his personal collection. chronize to music five times a day. Its Farther north up the river is the rooftop houses Japanese artist Tatsuo , the first state- Miyajima’s permanent spatial instal- JIANG QIONGER run museum dedicated to contempo- lation “Counter Sky Garden,” which CEO AND ART DIRECTOR, rary art in mainland China. Original is made up of of 300 LEDs. Inside, a SHANG XIA Design Studio spent six years retrofit- series of venues host rotating exhibi- ting the former power plant, identified tions, small performances, fashion “I love , not by its 541-foot chimney, and, since it shows, and conferences, including the only for its large collection launched in 2012, many big-name art- inaugural edition of the Business of of ancient Chinese paintings, ists and architects have chosen the PSA Fashion China Summit that took place calligraphy, and ceramics, but to host their solo shows, including in October. Through Jan. 7, 2018, visi- also because my father, Xing the recent “Works and Humanitarian tors can catch the late German artist Tonghe, was the architect. So Activities” by Shigeru Ban and the A.R. Penck’s first posthumous show there’s a strong emotional con- “Renzo Piano Building Workshop” since his death in May. nection for me. For contem- in 2015. Considered one of the most porary art, I recommend the M Art Center, over in the M50 art district on Moganshan Road. The Jean-Marie Charpentier– designed gallery has sup- ported many young talents over the years and consistently puts on creative exhibitions. The Mix Place on is my favorite place to read; while Japanese restaurant Wei Liu, on Julu Road, designed by architect Zhou Guangming, has become one of my favorite spots for gatherings.”

Exterior facade of Fosun Art Center. PHOTO: COURTESY FOSTER + PARTNERS AND HEATHERWICK STUDIO. AND HEATHERWICK + PARTNERS FOSTER COURTESY PHOTO: TK PHOTO:

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SHOPPING “Made in China” holds negative con- Design Republic Design Commune, notations for many, but the country’s in a retrofitted police headquarters new generation of creatives are work- built by the British around 1910, show- ing hard to change that. Uma Wang, cases its sophisticated taste level with Angel Chen, Sankuanz, Xander Zhou, a well-edited selection: Alessi kitch- and Museum of Friendship are just a enware, lighting fixtures by Dutch few examples of young fashion design- brand Moooi, and Neri & Hu’s own ers and labels that have emerged both line of modern Chinese furniture. To at home and abroad, drawing clued-in honor the colonial history of the com- locals away from the big-name fash- plex, Neri & Hu retained the building’s ion houses. A major force supporting brick facade, while inserting glass and the rise in local talent is Dongliang, a steel in the storefront, which offers a multibrand concept store, which first view into the minimalistic showrooms. opened in Beijing in 2009. Set in a two If the popularity of The Rap of vintage villas in the former French China, a reality singing and rapping Concession, the Shanghai outpost is competition streamed by millions of designed by founder Nam Ron. Chinese viewers this summer, is any One high-end global brand looking indication, hip-hop has entered the forward is Hermès, which collaborated mainstream—as has its style. The best with designer Jiang Qionger to estab- local streetwear is found at DOE’s new lish Shang Xia, a modern lifestyle label Xintiandi shop, by architect Shuhei marrying contemporary design with Aoyama, an industrial space with a Chinese arts and culture. Head to its massive, central wooden “box” dis- Kengo Kuma–designed villa on Middle playing coveted releases from Nike, for signature pieces pro- Adidas, and Converse, sporty hoodies duced by rural craftsmen, including tea and tees, and seasonal collaborations wares, woven-bamboo bracelets, and with cult labels.

accessories collections, as well as rotat- Interior view of Design Republic ing cultural exhibitions. Neri & Hu’s Design Commune. PHOTO: COURTESY NERI&HU. COURTESY PHOTO:

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