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Plan Your Trip 1 ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd Shanghai “All you’ve got to do is decide to go and the hardest part is over. So go!” TONY WHEELER, COFOUNDER – LONELY PLANET THIS EDITION WRITTEN AND RESEARCHED BY Damian Harper, Dai Min Contents PlanPlan Your Your Trip Trip page 1 4 Welcome to Getting Around ............. 20 For Free ..........................32 Shànghǎi ..........................4 Top Itineraries ...............22 Eating ���������������������������33 Shànghǎi’s Top 13 ...........6 If You Like .......................24 Drinking & Nightlife �� 43 What’s New .................... 15 Month by Month ............27 Entertainment ������������ 45 Need to Know ................ 16 With Kids ....................... 30 Shopping ����������������������47 First Time Shànghǎi ...... 18 Like a Local .................... 31 Explore Shànghăi 50 Neighbourhoods at Jìng’ān ..........................126 West Shànghǎi .............171 a Glance �����������������������52 Pǔdōng .........................143 Day Trips from The Bund & Hóngkǒu & Shànghǎi �������������������� 178 People’s Square ............54 North Shànghǎi ...........156 Sleeping ���������������������199 Old Town ........................78 Xújiāhuì & French Concession .......93 South Shànghǎi ...........164 Understand Shànghăi 213 Shànghǎi Today ........... 214 Arts .............................. 230 Religion & Belief ......... 248 History ..........................216 Architecture in Shànghǎi ................. 239 Survival Guide 251 Transport .....................252 Language ..................... 274 Directory A–Z .............. 261 Index ............................ 284 Shànghăi Maps 294 SAM DIEPHUIS / GETTY IMAGES © IMAGES GETTY / DIEPHUIS SAM © IMAGES GETTY / ADAMS PETER (left) Noodles Casual street dining in © IMAGES GETTY / PHOTOGRAPHY WEI FENG Shànghǎi (above) Chinese New Year Celebrations in the Yùyuán Gardens shop- ping area (p80) (right) Traditional Chinese Door Hóngkǒu & North Shànghǎi p156 The Bund & Jìng'ān People's p126 Square Pǔdōng p54 p143 Old Town French p78 Concession p93 West Shànghǎi p171 Xújiāhuì & South Shànghǎi p164 ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd 22 Top Itineraries Day One Day Two The Bund & People’s Square (p54) French Concession (p93) Follow the sweep of architectural View the architecture and bou- M pomp along the and savour M tiques of and explore the Bund Xīntiāndì the art deco grandeur of the Fairmont Shíkùmén Open House Museum for a Peace Hotel, before walking along the lowdown on shíkùmén (stone-gate house) ar- riverside promenade to view the Pǔdōng chitecture before tracking down St Nicho- skyline across the river. Art lovers can swoop las Church, the whimsical Moller House upon the Rockbund Art Museum, while or taking a seat to watch locals relaxing in architecture fans enjoy the highlights of French-designed Fùxīng Park. Yuanmingyuan Road. Head west along East Nanjing Rd past shoppers to People’s Lunch Din Tai Fung (p105): classic, Square. moreish Shànghǎi dumplings. Lunch Lost Heaven (p71): all the French Concession (p93) flavours of far-off Yúnnán province. R Admire the dazzling glass creations at the Liúli China Museum before The Bund & People’s Square (p54) disappearing among Tiánzǐfáng’s warren R Immerse yourself in the collection of lanes. Boutique window-shop around of the Shànghǎi Museum before Tiánzǐfáng; take your hat off to the collec- choosing between the Shànghǎi Urban tion in the Propaganda Poster Art Cen- Planning Exhibition Hall or discovering tre; and hunt down contemporary art at a pocket of greenery in People’s Park. For James Cohan, Art Labor and Space. views, shoot up in the lift to the lobby of the JW Marriott on the 38th floor of Tomorrow Dinner Jian Guo 328 (p106): Home- Square. style Shànghǎi cooking on a fab menu. Dinner Bāguó Bùyī (p153): top-notch The Bund & People’s Square (p54) Sìchuān classics in a smart setting. N Zip up the day in style by sipping cocktails and dining on the Bund, Pǔdōng (p143) but most of all enjoy the mind-altering neon N Hop on the metro (or a sightseeing views. Select from a long list: the Glamour bus) from People’s Sq to Lùjiāzuǐ to Bar, New Heights, the Long Bar, Bar wander round the walkway in front of the Rouge or Captain’s Bar – or don your best Oriental Pearl TV Tower. Select between togs for views, booze and moves at M1NT. the observation towers of the Shànghǎi Die-hard traditionalists can lend an ear to Tower, Jinmao Tower and the Shànghǎi the jazz band in the Fairmont Peace Hotel World Financial Center, or settle for even- Jazz Bar. ing cocktails at Flair. 23 TIM DRAPER / GETTY IMAGES © IMAGES GETTY / DRAPER TIM PETER STUCKINGS / GETTY IMAGES © IMAGES GETTY / STUCKINGS PETER PLAN YOUR TRIP Dongtai Road Antique Market (p91) Lu Xun Park (p160) Day Three Day Four I Top Old Town (p78) Xújiāhuì & South Shànghǎi (p164) tin Reach the Old Town’s Spend the morning admiring the e M Yùyuán M R Gardens early in the day, before former Jesuit sights of Xújiāhuì, a ri the crowds arrive. Sift through the handi- in particular the St Ignatius Cathedral e crafts on sale in the Yùyuán Bazaar and the Tousewe Museum. Pay your re- S before tracking down bargain collectables spects to the Buddhist Lónghuá Temple along Old Street and Dongtai Road An- & Pagoda; the green-fingered can explore tique Market. Head east past Dǒngjiādù the foliage of the Shànghǎi Botanical Cathedral to the Cool Docks for its Gardens. fetching blend of shíkùmén, riverside warehouse architecture and views. Lunch Kota’s Kitchen (p169): superb Japanese dishes meets the Beatles. Lunch Nánxiáng Steamed Bun Restau- rant (p89): celebrated dumplings. Hóngkǒu & North Shànghǎi (p156) Jìng’ān (p126) R Pay a visit to the Ohel Moishe R Weave some Buddhist mystery into Synagogue and the surrounding your afternoon at the Jade Bud- former Jewish neighbourhood; walk up dha Temple before sprinkling contem- Duolun Road Cultural Street; track porary art into the mix at the fascinating down some of the neighbourhood’s best galleries of M50. Consider a cruise along architecture and relax in Lu Xun Park. Sūzhōu Creek or explore the Jìng’ān In the late afternoon, head back south to Temple before seeking out the lǐlòng lanes Dinner Guǒyúan (p161): superduper Dinner Fu 1088 (p138): fine Shànghǎi spice-infused dishes from Húnán. cuisine in dapper villa surrounds. the North Bund area of Hóngkǒu, near the of the Bubbling Well Road Apartments Bund. and shopping along West Nanjing Rd. Pǔdōng (p143) French Concession (p93) N Get haggling at the AP Xīnyáng N Round off your day in some of Fashion & Gifts Market before Shànghǎi’s best bars, all handily closing time, or get a handle on local his- located in the French Concession: chill out tory at the Shànghǎi History Museum. at Bell Bar; seek out specialist beers at Follow up with an evening walk along the Kaībā or Boxing Cat Brewery; sink a Riverside Promenade, gazing over to the Bund. For fine Pǔdōng views, jump on a ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd 294 Shànghǎi Maps Sights Information Routes Beach Bank Tollway Bird Sanctuary Embassy/Consulate Freeway Buddhist Hospital/Medical Primary Castle/Palace Internet Secondary Christian Police Tertiary Confucian Post Office Lane Hindu Telephone Unsealed road Islamic Toilet Road under construction Jain Tourist Information Plaza/Mall Jewish Other Information Steps Monument Tunnel Museum/Gallery/Historic Building Geographic Pedestrian overpass Ruin Beach Walking Tour Shinto Hut/Shelter Walking Tour detour Sikh Lighthouse Path/Walking Trail Taoist Lookout Winery/Vineyard Mountain/Volcano Boundaries Zoo/Wildlife Sanctuary Oasis International Other Sight Park State/Province Pass Disputed Activities, Picnic Area Regional/Suburb Courses & Tours Waterfall Marine Park Bodysurfing Cliff Diving Population Wall Canoeing/Kayaking Capital (National) Course/Tour Capital (State/Province) Hydrography Sento Hot Baths/Onsen City/Large Town River, Creek Skiing Town/Village Intermittent River Snorkelling Canal Surfing Transport Water Swimming/Pool Airport Walking Border crossing Dry/Salt/Intermittent Lake Windsurfing Bus Reef Other Activity Cable car/Funicular Cycling Areas Sleeping Ferry Airport/Runway Sleeping Metro/MTR/MRT station Camping Monorail Beach/Desert Parking Cemetery (Christian) Eating Petrol station Eating Skytrain/Subway station Cemetery (Other) Taxi Glacier Drinking & Nightlife Train station/Railway Drinking & Nightlife Tram Mudflat Cafe Underground station Park/Forest Other Transport Entertainment Sight (Building) Entertainment Sportsground Shopping Note: Not all symbols displayed above Swamp/Mangrove Shopping appear on the maps in this book 1 1 MAP INDEX 1 The Bund & People’s Square YÁNGPǓ 0 5 km (p296) e# 0 2.5 miles 2 Old Town (p300) Ð"9 3 French Concession East (p302) 4 French Concession West ZHĀBĚI (p306) NORTH SHÀNGHǍI Ð"5 5 North Jìng’ān (p309) PǓTUÓ (HÓNGKǑU) ōng 6 South Jìng’ān (p310) (Wús k Ð"7 e R Pǔdōng (p312) e i 7 r ve C r) THE 8 Century Avenue Area (p313) u ō BUND PǓDŌNG h z HUÁNGPǓ NEW AREA 9 Hóngkǒu & North Shànghǎi ū Ð"6 (p314) S JÌNG'ĀN Ð" 10 Xújiāhuì & South Shànghǎi 1 (p316) OLD TOWN 11 West Shànghǎi (p318) (NÁNSHÌ) CHÁNGNÍNG LÚWĀN Ð"3 Ð"8 HÓNGQIÁO Ð"2 Hóngqiáo International Ð"4 Airport r 1 e GǓBĚI iv R gpǔ Huán Ð"11 XÚHUÌ CÁOHÉJING MǏNHÁNG Ð"10 296 Key on p298 A B C D Ji ny u an Rd ཙ▬䐟 1 Tiantong Rd ᱻ Rd ݳ Qufu Rd Qufu E N 䐟 ¡# ᴢ䱌䐟ㄉ R F u j A i a Suzho n N u Rd 㣿ᐎ R े d 䐟 Suzhou R S d ই Sū 㣿 zh ᐎ ōu 䐟 C ’S SQU’S r 2 eek E ) 䐟 er L ( v ༽ Wúsōng Ri ݹ P Gua Rd Rd 䰘䐟 ngfu iamen 69 O X 䐟 ÿ# Ӝь े S ኡ S pe Rd hanx E Beijing 㾯 Xinz ই &