Shanghai-7-Contents.Pdf

Plan Your Trip 1 ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

Shanghai

“All you’ve got to do is decide to go and the hardest part is over. So go!” TONY WHEELER, COFOUNDER – LONELY PLANET

THIS EDITION WRITTEN AND RESEARCHED BY Damian Harper, Dai Min Contents

PlanPlan Your Your Trip Trip page 1 4

Welcome to Getting Around...... 20 For Free...... 32 Shànghǎi...... 4 Top Itineraries...... 22 Eating ��33 Shànghǎi’s Top 13...... 6 If You Like...... 24 Drinking & Nightlife �� 43 What’s New...... 15 Month by Month...... 27 Entertainment �� 45 Need to Know...... 16 With Kids...... 30 Shopping ��47 First Time Shànghǎi...... 18 Like a Local...... 31

Explore Shànghăi 50

Neighbourhoods at Jìng’ān...... 126 West Shànghǎi...... 171 a Glance ��52 Pǔdōng...... 143 Day Trips from The Bund & Hóngkǒu & Shànghǎi �� 178 People’s Square...... 54 North Shànghǎi...... 156 Sleeping ��199 Old Town...... 78 Xújiāhuì & French Concession...... 93 South Shànghǎi...... 164

Understand Shànghăi 213

Shànghǎi Today...... 214 Arts...... 230 Religion & Belief...... 248 History...... 216 Architecture in Shànghǎi...... 239

Survival Guide 251

Transport ��252 Language �� 274 Directory A–Z �� 261 Index...... 284

Shànghăi Maps 294 PETER ADAMS / GETTY IMAGES © FENG WEI PHOTOGRAPHY / GETTY IMAGES © dōng p143 Pǔ & wn 8 kǒu To s p7 p156 d - 4 Ol Hóng ople' p5 e Bund & North Shànghǎi Square Pe Th Chinese New New Chinese Traditional Traditional 3 Celebrations in the Noodles Noodles n p9 French Shànghǎi (above) Year shop Gardens Yùyuán ping area (p80) (right) Door Chinese (left) Casual street dining in p126 SAM DIEPHUIS / GETTY IMAGES © Concession Jìng'ā p164 Xújiāhuì & South Shànghǎi i 71 p1 st Shànghǎ We ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd 22

Top Itineraries

Day One Day Two

The Bund & People’s Square (p54) French Concession (p93) M Follow the sweep of architectural M View the architecture and bou- pomp along the Bund and savour tiques of Xīntiāndì and explore the the art deco grandeur of the Fairmont Shíkùmén Open House Museum for a Peace Hotel, before walking along the lowdown on shíkùmén (stone-gate house) ar- riverside promenade to view the Pǔdōng chitecture before tracking down St Nicho- skyline across the river. Art lovers can swoop las Church, the whimsical Moller House upon the Rockbund Art Museum, while or taking a seat to watch locals relaxing in architecture fans enjoy the highlights of French-designed Fùxīng Park. Yuanmingyuan Road. Head west along East Nanjing Rd past shoppers to People’s Lunch Din Tai Fung (p105): classic, Square. moreish Shànghǎi dumplings.

Lunch Lost Heaven (p71): all the French Concession (p93) flavours of far-off Yúnnán province. Admire the dazzling glass creations R at the Liúli China Museum before The Bund & People’s Square (p54) disappearing among Tiánzǐfáng’s warren Immerse yourself in the collection of lanes. Boutique window-shop around R of the Shànghǎi Museum before Tiánzǐfáng; take your hat off to the collec- choosing between the Shànghǎi Urban tion in the Propaganda Poster Art Cen- Planning Exhibition Hall or discovering tre; and hunt down contemporary art at a pocket of greenery in People’s Park. For James Cohan, Art Labor and Space. views, shoot up in the lift to the lobby of the JW Marriott on the 38th floor of Tomorrow Dinner Jian Guo 328 (p106): Home- Square. style Shànghǎi cooking on a fab menu.

Dinner Bāguó Bùyī (p153): top-notch The Bund & People’s Square (p54) Sìchuān classics in a smart setting. Zip up the day in style by sipping N cocktails and dining on the Bund, Pǔdōng (p143) but most of all enjoy the mind-altering neon Hop on the metro (or a sightseeing views. Select from a long list: the Glamour N bus) from People’s Sq to Lùjiāzuǐ to Bar, New Heights, the Long Bar, Bar wander round the walkway in front of the Rouge or Captain’s Bar – or don your best Oriental Pearl TV Tower. Select between togs for views, booze and moves at M1NT. the observation towers of the Shànghǎi Die-hard traditionalists can lend an ear to Tower, Jinmao Tower and the Shànghǎi the jazz band in the Fairmont Peace Hotel World Financial Center, or settle for even- Jazz Bar. ing cocktails at Flair. 23 TIM DRAPER / GETTY IMAGES © PETER STUCKINGS / GETTY IMAGES © PLAN YOUR TRIP TRIP YOUR PLAN

Dongtai Road Antique Market (p91) Lu Xun Park (p160)

Day Three Day Four Top I tin

Old Town (p78) Xújiāhuì & South Shànghǎi (p164)

Reach the Old Town’s Spend the morning admiring the e M Yùyuán M r Gardens early in the day, before former Jesuit sights of Xújiāhuì, a ri e the crowds arrive. Sift through the handi- in particular the St Ignatius Cathedral crafts on sale in the Yùyuán Bazaar and the Tousewe Museum. Pay your re- s before tracking down bargain collectables spects to the Buddhist Lónghuá Temple along Old Street and Dongtai Road An- & Pagoda; the green-fingered can explore tique Market. Head east past Dǒngjiādù the foliage of the Shànghǎi Botanical Cathedral to the Cool Docks for its Gardens. fetching blend of shíkùmén, riverside warehouse architecture and views. Lunch Kota’s Kitchen (p169): superb Japanese dishes meets the Beatles. Lunch Nánxiáng Steamed Bun Restau- rant (p89): celebrated dumplings.

Hóngkǒu & North Shànghǎi (p156) Jìng’ān (p126) Pay a visit to the Ohel Moishe Weave some Buddhist mystery into R Synagogue and the surrounding R your afternoon at the Jade Bud- former Jewish neighbourhood; walk up dha Temple before sprinkling contem- Duolun Road Cultural Street; track porary art into the mix at the fascinating down some of the neighbourhood’s best galleries of M50. Consider a cruise along architecture and relax in Lu Xun Park. Sūzhōu Creek or explore the Jìng’ān In the late afternoon, head back south to Temple before seeking out the lǐlòng lanes Dinner Guǒyúan (p161): superduper Dinner Fu 1088 (p138): fine Shànghǎi spice-infused dishes from Húnán. cuisine in dapper villa surrounds.

the North Bund area of Hóngkǒu, near the of the Bubbling Well Road Apartments Bund. and shopping along West Nanjing Rd.

Pǔdōng (p143) French Concession (p93) Get haggling at the AP Xīnyáng Round off your day in some of N Fashion & Gifts Market before N Shànghǎi’s best bars, all handily closing time, or get a handle on local his- located in the French Concession: chill out tory at the Shànghǎi History Museum. at Bell Bar; seek out specialist beers at Follow up with an evening walk along the Kaībā or Boxing Cat Brewery; sink a Riverside Promenade, gazing over to the Bund. For fine Pǔdōng views, jump on a ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd 294

Shànghǎi Maps

Sights Information Routes Beach Bank Tollway Bird Sanctuary Embassy/Consulate Freeway Buddhist Hospital/Medical Primary Castle/Palace Internet Secondary Christian Police Tertiary Confucian Post Office Lane Hindu Telephone Unsealed road Islamic Toilet Road under construction Jain Tourist Information Plaza/Mall Jewish Other Information Steps Monument Tunnel Museum/Gallery/Historic Building Geographic Pedestrian overpass Ruin Beach Walking Tour Shinto Hut/Shelter Walking Tour detour Sikh Lighthouse Path/Walking Trail Taoist Lookout Winery/Vineyard Mountain/Volcano Boundaries Zoo/Wildlife Sanctuary Oasis International Other Sight Park State/Province Pass Disputed Activities, Picnic Area Regional/Suburb Courses & Tours Waterfall Marine Park Bodysurfing Cliff Diving Population Wall Canoeing/Kayaking Capital (National) Course/Tour Capital (State/Province) Hydrography Sento Hot Baths/Onsen City/Large Town River, Creek Skiing Town/Village Intermittent River Snorkelling Canal Surfing Transport Water Swimming/Pool Airport Walking Border crossing Dry/Salt/Intermittent Lake Windsurfing Bus Reef Other Activity Cable car/Funicular Cycling Areas Sleeping Ferry Airport/Runway Sleeping Metro/MTR/MRT station Camping Monorail Beach/Desert Parking Cemetery (Christian) Eating Petrol station Eating Skytrain/Subway station Cemetery (Other) Taxi Glacier Drinking & Nightlife Train station/Railway Drinking & Nightlife Tram Mudflat Cafe Underground station Park/Forest Other Transport Entertainment Sight (Building) Entertainment Sportsground Shopping Note: Not all symbols displayed above Swamp/Mangrove Shopping appear on the maps in this book 1 1 MAP INDEX 1 The Bund & People’s Square YÁNGPǓ 0 5 km (p296) e# 0 2.5 miles 2 Old Town (p300) Ð"9 3 French Concession East (p302) 4 French Concession West ZHĀBĚI (p306) NORTH SHÀNGHǍI Ð"5 5 North Jìng’ān (p309) PǓTUÓ (HÓNGKǑU) ōng 6 South Jìng’ān (p310) (Wús k Ð"7 e R Pǔdōng (p312) e i 7 r ve C r) THE 8 Century Avenue Area (p313) u ō BUND PǓDŌNG h z HUÁNGPǓ NEW AREA 9 Hóngkǒu & North Shànghǎi ū Ð"6 (p314) S JÌNG'ĀN Ð" 10 Xújiāhuì & South Shànghǎi 1 (p316) OLD TOWN 11 West Shànghǎi (p318) (NÁNSHÌ) CHÁNGNÍNG LÚWĀN Ð"3 Ð"8 HÓNGQIÁO Ð"2 Hóngqiáo International Ð"4 Airport r 1 e GǓBĚI iv R gpǔ Huán Ð"11 XÚHUÌ

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17 21 18 19 16 22 23 20

AOur beat-up Story old car, a few dollars in the pocket and a sense of adventure. In 1972 that’s all Tony and Maureen Wheeler needed for the trip of a lifetime – across Europe and Asia overland to Australia. It took several months, and at the end – broke but inspired – they sat at their kitchen table writing and stapling together their first travel guide, Across Asia on the Cheap. Within a week they’d sold 1500 copies. Lonely Planet was born. Today, Lonely Planet has offices in Melbourne, London and Oakland, with more than 600 staff and writers. We share Tony’s belief that ‘a great guidebook should do three things: inform, educate and amuse’.

Our Writers Damian Harper Coordinating Author, Old Town, Pǔdōng, Hóngkǒu & North Shànghǎi, Xújiāhuì & South Shànghǎi, Day Trips from Shànghǎi After graduating with a degree in modern and classical Chinese from London’s School of Oriental and African Studies, guidebook writer Damian has lived and worked in Shànghǎi, Běijīng and Hong Kong, travelling the highways and byroads of China. Fascinat- ed by China’s coming of age, relishing Shànghǎi’s finest xiǎolóngbāo dumplings and shíkùmén buildings, and while hounded by deadlines, Damian has worked on multiple edi- tions of Shanghai. For this edition, Damian also wrote Need to Know, Top Itineraries, Sleeping, the Understand Shànghǎi section, and the Transport and Directory chapters. Read more about Damian at: lonelyplanet.com/members/damianharper Christopher Pitts The Bund & People’s Square, French Concession, Jìng’ān, West Shànghǎi Chris started his university years studying classical Chinese poetry before a week in 1990s Shànghǎi (en route to school in Kūnmíng) abruptly changed his focus to the idiosyncrasies of modern China. Several years in Asia memorising Chinese characters got him hooked, and he returns whenever he can to immerse himself in what is surely one of the world’s most fascinating languages. He’s written for Lonely Planet’s Shanghai since 2005 and also contributes to the Chi- na guide. Visit him online at www.christopherpitts.net. For this edition, Christopher also wrote Welcome to Shànghǎi, What’s New, If You Like, Month Read more about Chris at: by Month, With Kids, Like a Local, For Free, Neigh- lonelyplanet.com/members/christopherpitts bourhoods at a Glance, the Eating, Drinking & Nighlife, Entertainment and Shopping overviews and Sleeping.

Published by Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd ABN 36 005 607 983 Although the authors and Lonely Planet have taken all reason- 6th edition – April 2013 able care in preparing this book, we make no warranty about ISBN 978 1 74179 901 9 the accuracy or completeness of its content and, to the maxi- © Lonely Planet 2013 Photographs © as indicated 2013 mum extent permitted, disclaim all liability arising from its use. 10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 Printed in China All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be copied, stored in a retrieval system, or transmitted in any form by any means, electronic, mechanical, recording or otherwise, except brief extracts for the purpose of review, and no part of this publication may be sold or hired, without the written permission of the publisher. Lonely Planet and the Lonely Planet logo are trademarks of Lonely Planet and are registered in the US Patent and Trademark Office and in other countries. Lonely Planet does not allow its name or logo to be appropriated by commercial establishments, such as retailers, restaurants or hotels. Please let us know of any misuses: lonelyplanet.com/ip. ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

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