The Sea Canoeist Newsletter

Photo: © John Kirk-Anderson ‘The Press’ Report and more photos on p.7

The Journal of the Kiwi Association of Sea Kayakers (N.Z.) Inc. - KASK

No. 119 October - November 2005

THE SEA CANOEIST NEWSLETTER

1 No. 119 October - November 2005 KASK LRB3 - KASK HANDBOOK HAWKE'S BAY- KASK Contact For a copy (or trade orders) of this Adrian Rhodes KASK, the Kiwi Association of Sea mother of all sea handbooks, Ph: 06-8439853 Fax: 06-8439857 Kayakers (N.Z.) Inc., a network of contact Paul Caffyn, RD 1, Runanga, email: [email protected] New Zealand sea kayakers, has the 7854. West Coast. GISBORNE Sea Kayakers Club objectives of: e-mail: [email protected] John Humphris, 3 Matthews Rd, Gisborne 1. promoting and encouraging the Price: $24.00 Ph: (06) 868 4657 sport of sea kayaking New members: gratis email: [email protected] or 2. promoting safety standards Make cheques out to KASK (NZ) Inc. [email protected] 3. developing techniques & Website:www.geocities.com/ equipment THE LRB3, or the Little Red Book gisborne_sea_kayakers/ 4. dealing with issues of coastal 3rd. Edition, is a mammoth compila- NEW PLYMOUTH KASK Contact access and protection tion on all aspects of sea kayaking in Bob Talbot, 5. organizing an annual sea New Zealand, by many of the most 10 Ranfurly St., Waitara. forum experienced paddlers in the Universe. Ph: 06 754 4191(H) or 0274 457038 6. publishing a bimonthly Following a brief introduction, the email: [email protected] newsletter. handbook is divided into six sections: WELLINGTON Network - Kayak, & Equipment Christine Coshan, PO Box 26052, The Sea Canoeist Newsletter is pub- -Techniques & Equipment Newlands, Wellington lished bimonthly as the official news- - The Elements Ph: (04) 971 2141 letter of the Kiwi Association of Sea - Trips and Expeditions email: [email protected] Kayakers (N.Z.) Inc. - Places to Go Website: www.wskn.wellington.net.nz Articles, trips reports, book reviews, - Resources equipment reviews, new techniques, SOUTH ISLAND letter to the editor, and moments when SEA KAYAKING the word 'Bugger!' was said singu- MARLBOROUGH larly or often {referred to by some as NETWORK ADDRESSES Helen Woodward incidents} are sought to enliven the NORTH ISLAND Ph: (03) 579 5669 pages of the newsletter. NORTHLAND Club [email protected] PO Box 755, Whangarei NELSON - KASK Contact Send in a plain brown envelope, or via Brian Lamerton Nora Flight cybermail to: Ph: (09) 437 2858 Ph: (03) 544 7877 Editor: Paul Caffyn, email: [email protected] email: [email protected] RD 1, Runanga. 7854 AUCKLAND Canoe Club CANTERBURY Sea Kayak Network West Coast .N.Z. 22 Spinnaker Dve., Andy & Deirdre Sheppard Ph/Fax: (03) 7311806 Te Atatu Peninsula, Auckland. 53 Kent Lodge Ave Email: [email protected] email:auckland-canoe-club Avonhead, Christchurch. 8004 [email protected]. Ph: (03) 342 7929 KASK Annual Subscription HAURAKI Kayak Group email: [email protected] Pelham Housego www.CanterburySeaKayak.orcon.net.nz $35 single membership OTAGO ($105 for 3 years; $175 for 5 years) PO Box 46-146, Herne Bay, Auckland WAIKATO KASK Contact Rob Tipa $40 family membership. (03) 478 0360 $35 overseas Evan Pugh, RD2, Putaruru [email protected] [email protected] A subscription form can be SOUTHLAND Sea Kayak Network downloaded from the KASK website. Ph: (07) 883 6898 RUAHINE Whitewater Club Stan Mulvany Cheques should be made out to: 03 215 7263 K.A.S.K. (NZ) Inc. & mailed to: 71 Salisbury St., Ashhurst. Ph: 06 326 8667 Fax: 06 326 8472 email: [email protected] KASK Administrator Website: www.sskn.uniformnz.com PO Box 23, Runanga. 7854 www.q-kayaks.co.nz/pages/club.asp West Coast BAY OF PLENTY - KASK Contact Iona Bailey, Tauranga SKOANZ Sea Kayak Operators Assn. NZ Correspondence/Queries to: Ph: (07) 576 1492 email: [email protected] Suzanne Dent, Administrator Vanessa Hughes SKOANZ KASK Administrator ROTORUA- KASK Contact John Flemming, PO Box 1872, Rotorua PO Box 1222 PO Box 23, Runanga. 7854 Christchurch West Coast Ph/fax: (07) 347 9950 email: [email protected] Ph/fax; 03 329 8317 Rotorua Kayak Club email: [email protected] Send address changes for receiving Website: www.skoanz.org.nz the newsletter via email to Vanessa 7 Mahana Place, Rotorua at: [email protected] Ph: (027) 292 3138 email: [email protected] KASK Website: www.kask.co.nz

2 The Sea Canoeist Newsletter EDITORIAL INDEX Congratulations to the triumphant COVER PHOTO team of Graham Charles, Marcus EDITORIAL p.3 My thanks to John Kirk-Anderson for Waters and Mark Jones who com- the marvellous photo coverage of the pleted the first circumnavigation of KASK surf landings at Waimangaroa. I have South Georgia. They were greeted at Nov. 2005 President’s Report penned a report, after interviewing British Antarctic Survey Station on 2 by Susan Cade p. 4 John, with some advice on dealing November 2005 with champagne and WSNZ AGM Report with West Coast surf. a saxophone version of God Defend by Susan Cade p. 5 New Zealand. Tauranga Training Weekend LRB4 by Robyn Berthelsen p. 5 (The Little Red Book - 4th Edition) Alon Ohad, who paddled around Tas- Conservation News Planning for a fourth edition of the mania with a mate earlier this year from the newspapers p. 6 KASK handbook is well in hand. At (report in the n/l) is currently underway the recent Wellington KASK com- on a solo mission around Stewart Is- TECHNIQUE mittee meeting, a new cover design land. Waimangaroa Adventure Racing was discussed and the conclusion report: Paul Caffyn reached that more photos were to be Andy Lukes, over many moons, com- photos: J. Kirk-Anderson p.7 included on the front and rear covers. pleted a possible first circumnaviga- Images that would encompass all as- tion of Cyprus and has penned a report OVERSEAS TRIP REPORTS pects of sea kayaking in New Zea- for the n/l. Cyprus Solo Circumnavigation land. by Andy Lukes p.10 NATIONAL PLEASURE Circumnavigating Tasmania - Part 1 Please have a hunt through your trans- BOAT FORUM by Alon Ohad p.12 parencies, prints and digital photos On 13 December I will be attending a for outstanding pics, as suitable pho- NPBF meeting in Auckland. This is REVIEWS tographs are sought from KASK mem- the group that discusses and policy Book: ‘In the Wake of the Jomon’ bers for the front and rear covers. The and regulations affecting all recrea- review: Kerry Howe p.16 committee informed me that the pho- tional boaties. Please get in touch with DVD: ‘The ’ tos must be PS - politically safe - thus the editor if you, your club or network review: Susan Cade p.16 the wearing of a PFD is obligatory, have any kayaking issues to be raised and bright colours for the kayak and at the forum. CALENDAR kit are preferable. Wet West Film Festival p.17 SAFE SUMMER Coastbusters 2006 p.18 Criteria for images include same size A long hot summer is predicted. Stay KASK 2006 AGM p.18 or bigger than the current LRB3 cover safe on the water this festive season. Pilgrimage Rescheduled p.18 pic, minimum resolution of 300dpi. Remember the pod rule, and that if Due to the antiquated phone line at the you start as a group, you finish as a HUMOUR p.19 12 Mile, and snail pace downloading group. If planning a longish coastal of email images, I would prefer pics trip, skills that were fine last summer on a CD. may need practical revision. Practice sessions such as bracing in surf, roll- If using Photoshop, include the pho- ing and self and group rescues should THANKS tographer and caption in the File In- be considered. A brush up to ensure the combat roll is 100% effective, or To all the contributors, and formation bit of the pull down menu. Or include a Word file on the CD with ensuring a rescue will especially JKA for his this information. Full credit acknowl- work smoothly and efficiently every stunning photos. edged in the LRB4 with gratis copies time. supplied. Best wishes for the festive For trannies and colour prints, I can season. And remember the editor is scan and return promptly by mail. always keen to receive paddling re- ports, photos and press clippings for DEADLINE EXPEDITION NEWS the newsletter. 16 January 2006 for Conrad Edwards had a brilliant trip in Paul Caffyn material for the next September, when he paddled his Nor- newsletter. dkapp from Inchon near Seoul, to Busan in south Korea. On 14 Decem- ber he heads off to paddle the Cambo- dian section of the Mekong River.

3 No. 119 October - November 2005

to inform best practice. at other funding options and ways to KASKKASK - Publish and circulate data to in- achieve this goal. crease knowledge on contributing fac- tors on sea kayak incidents and in- Training November 2005 form knowledge about risk factors to Currently it is still exciting to see that President’s Report sea kayakers in New Zealand. training is continuing to happen around - maintain the database on an ongoing New Zealand. For instance the This month has been very busy for the basis to allow regular analysis and Southland Sea Kayakers, led by KASK committee. We had a weekend become part of a National Incident Stanley Mulvany, has just run a sea Committee meeting in Wellington Database facilitated by NZ Mountain kayak skills training weekend at Lake over the weekend 12 –13 November. Safety Council. Monowai. There was a further stroke This was most successful in that we training session run by Wellington were able to plan and sort through The second project approved, $6,000, Sea Kayak Network, and Tauranga some of the many issues that need to is printing of the LRB4, a 4th. edition has had a weekend training session be worked through in order to meet of ‘The KASK Handbook, A Manual with instructor John Kirk-Anderson. I the committee’s current objectives. I for Sea Kayaking In New Zealand’. am sure there is lots of other training will briefly mention some of the items This is involves revising chapter con- happening out there also. Also there is that were touched on that may be of tent, and adding new sections such as the Coastbusters forum happening in interest. practical rescues, VHF radios, first Auckland 17-19 March 2006, which aid and hypothermia. The cover will will be another great opportunity for Water Safety NZ Grants be redesigned with more photos. paddlers to network, meet paddlers Water Safety New Zealand (WSNZ) from New Zealand and overseas, and confirmed that two of our applica- Unfortunately we were not successful share knowledge and skills. The tions for funding for the 2005-2006 with funding for the ‘National Sea KASK AGM will also be held at this financial year have been approved for Kayak Training Series,’ to provide forum late on the Saturday afternoon. Lottery Grants Funding. The first sea kayak skills training for the rec- project approved for funding of $650 reational sea kayaker. KASK does The Committee also completed an was ‘The Sea Incident Data Base and have a very clear commitment to- application for funding to Maritime Report’ that both Paul and Iona have wards practical training and has allo- New Zealand towards the several been working on. In brief the project cated funding towards supporting projects and anticipates that this will is to: training development, therefore we be successful as it has been previously - Analyse the KASK sea kayak inci- will be contacting clubs and networks negotiated during meetings held over dent database to provide information about the best way to address this the past 12 months. about causal factors and injuries and need for them. KASK is also looking

Mike Wilkin at the recent WSKN training weeking. Broaching in surf blindfolded! Instructor and photographer: John Kirk-Anderson

4 The Sea Canoeist Newsletter

The KASK Pamphlet was also worked Report on the Water Safety The emphasis really over the day was on and refined, with approval given NZ AGM 13 September going over the AGM business and for a new two colour edition. We are networking with other organisations. hoping to have that printed as soon as Of major note at this meeting, four For instance one of the significant possible to catch the summer market. formal presentations were made at discussions was about promotion of this forum: the KASK ‘A Basic guide To Safe Sea Upcoming meetings - Drowning Prevention Strategy - the Kayaking’ brochure, and a Maritime Paul Caffyn is attending ‘The Na- Government framework New Zealand publicity summer pro- tional Pleasure Boat Forum’ on 13 - Swim For Life gram to get information like this out to December 2005 in Auckland - Communications and Marketing recreational boat and kayak users. So - Maori Water Safety. far it has been very positively re- So now it is very much time for the In the last one I was interested to hear ceived and supported. I was also able committee to focus on meeting the that there is twice the rate of Maoris to present KASK’s report as a mem- current KASK commitments and fit drowning as against non-Maoris. Iden- ber organisation of WSNZ and our some recreation in as well over the tified very high risk areas were in the current relevant projects. Summer. Waikato, Bay of Plenty and Susan Cade So happy paddling all. Whanganui. Susan Cade

Robyn practicing her surfing skills at Tauranga. Photo: John Kirk-Anderson

Tauranga Coaching Weekend by Robyn Berthelsen

Iona Bailey heard through the KASK Committee that John Kirk- Anderson was willing to coach a group of six for a weekend. We decided on October in the hope of warmer weather, and ideal conditions prevailed. The six KASK members from the Bay of Plenty all knew each other so the interpersonal banter was underway quickly.

Friday night began poolside with basic skill technique, our hips and knees were alive! Saturday morning was surfing practice with some big smiles evident, while the afternoon was spent practising rolling in the pool. The evening meal was shared, as we watched John’s video tape of us in action. Sunday was stroke practice, questioning the ways we knew and completing with rescue techniques and roll finesse. I felt John’s style helped people gel together as a supportive group - it was a fun time and well paced. Everyone was encouraged to extend themselves with safety in mind. The money spent was very worthwhile. I thoroughly recommend John’s weekend and in his words “This is just another aspect of kayak techniques.” Robyn Berthelsen

5 No. 119 October - November 2005

sula. One of his photos, of a bull half degree) water or 2% solution of house- way out of the sea, and inspecting the hold bleach, or 5% solution of salt, CONSERVATIONCONSERVATION boat was included as ‘Photo of the nappy cleaner, antiseptic cleaner or Week’ (19/11/05), but the photo which household detergent. NEWSNEWS appeared on 16/11/07 shows an Orca from the newspapers completely airborne. Marvellous pics. 3. If cleaning is not possible, items must be completely dry for at least 48 D’Urville Island Mussel Farms hours before entering any other wa- The island’s stoats face extinction in A proposed 770ha farm off D’Urville terways. the country’s largest eradication pro- Island, from the Maori owned Wakatu gramme. The D’Urville Island Stoat Incorporation, was set back on 15 Go and paddle in the sea after pad- Eradication Charitable Trust will un- November after the Ministry of Fish- dling the Buller but NOT in any fresh dertake a feasibility study next winter eries declined the application in a water. on how to eliminate the predators preliminary decision. The proposed from the rugged 16,000ha island at farm sat over productive fishing Note, seawater is about a 3% solution the north-western end of the Marlbor- grounds and would have affected the of salt and might not be concentrated ough Sounds. The island is already inshore trawl fishery. enough (unless you heat it?) to effec- free of possums, feral goats, ferrets tively ‘clean’ your gear. At least the and weasels. (10/08/05) However DoC minister Chris Carter algae won't spread in the sea. announced approval on the same day Secretary Island to establish New Zealand’s largest Further information on Didymo and This island, in Fiordland, is close to mussel farm off the east coast of the cleaning methods is available online becoming predator free. In Novem- Marlborough Sounds. Clifford Bay at www.biosecurity.govt.nz/didymo ber, DoC staff checked all the traps on Marine Farm Ltd’s 425ha develop- the island and caught only nine stoats. ment was approved on condition that FOR SALE Such a low capture rate indicates that the marine farm developers commis- 1. X Factor kayak, kevlar, immacu- there are few if any stoats left on the sioned a three year survey to ensure late condition, two sets of hatch cov- island which is an exciting step for the area where the farming was going ers - the original and easier to fit survival of some of the country’s most to occur was not a vital nursery or neoprene - $2,800 critically endangered species. breeding area for the critically endan- Contact: Pam Wakeling (07) 347 gered Hector dolphins. (16/11/05) 7494 (Rotorua) Following the removal of stoats from the island, DoC plans to reintroduce From the Canterbury Sea Kayak 2. ‘Chestnut Prospector’ Canadian several forest bird species, including Network email newsletter: canoe. Made in kevlar by NZ Canoe saddleback, South Island robin and & Kayak Co, (John Dobbie). Extra yellowhead. Back in July 1995, 104 BiosecurityBiosecurity flotation lockers as bow and stern. stoats were removed from the island Fitting for an outboard motor. over a two week programme under- AlertAlert Little used. $2,100. taken by DoC staff and volunteers. Contact: Derek Wakeling (07) 347 On the adjacent mainland, 180 tunnel 7494 (Rotorua) traps were established to reduce the Didymo, also known as 'rock snot', has been found in two catchment ar- risk of re-invasion of the island by FOR SALE stoats. (23/11/05) eas, Southland and the Buller River (see The Press, page 3, 28/9/05). ‘Life is the Sea’ DVD, filmed and produced by Justine Jorgensen. Back in February this year, when were More information on didymo is avail- This DVD was reviewed in KASK recovering from the arduous newsletter No. 118. from Cliff Cove to Long Sound, we able from the Biosecurity New Zea- land website at: Dave Kwant, the WetWest Hokitika observed a wretched stoat ratting film festival organizer, had a box of through piles of bull kelp on the beach. www.biosecurity.govt.nz/pests-dis- eases/plants/didymo/. 20 of these DVDs from the 2005 fes- This was despite the fact that a trap- tival. I offered to sell them on behalf ping program had been conducted of Justine, and the proceeds can now through this area. And we didn’t have Anyone who has entered this river or fishes in the tributaries of the Buller go towards her travel costs from the a bang stick to eliminate the loath- UK to Coastbusters 2006. some predator. will need to treat their equipment as advised by Biosecurity New Zealand. Price: $40 folding type money. It would help if you post the editor a Orca 1. Remove obvious clumps of algae folded self-addressed A5 size enve- Christchurch ‘Press’ photographer lope, with 90¢ stamps, inside a nor- David Hallett took was fortunate to be and leave these on site. Do not wash these down the sink if found later. mal size envelope. sea borne for a rare sighting of killer Mail to Paul Caffyn, RD 1, Runanga whales off Port Levy in Banks Penin- 2. Soak and scrub all items in hot (60 7854, West Coast.

6 The Sea Canoeist Newsletter

boat. Mostly lightweight kevlar or John, who has spent a bit of time kevlar/carbon fibre in construction. surfing on the West Coast, on a wave TECHNIQUETECHNIQUE The criteria in the race entry rules for ski or in his Arluk 1.8, noted that the double and obligatory kit conditions were ‘typical’ for the coast. to be carried notes the following: Those paddlers who were experienced Adventure Racing World - kayak with a minimum waterline in surf conditions came through un- Championships 2005 beam of 0.55m scathed, by timing their runs carefully Surf Action at - kayaks fitted with bulkheads and broaching in front of breakers. Waimangaroa - full bow to stern decklines Those without experience came to by Paul Caffyn - brightly coloured (orange or yellow) grief in a big way. flag on whip mast, with minimum Photographs: John Kirk- height of 1m. SUMMARY OF SURF LANDING Anderson - lifejackets with minimum 6.2kg TECHNIQUE buoyancy For those not familiar with the term Photographer John Kirk-Anderson - compass, flares, radio, EPIRB, throw broaching, this technique involves was covering the race for ‘The Press’ rope. glo-sticks turning a sea kayak side-on to a bro- and took some stunning shots of the - helmet, list of ken wave. A low brace with the pad- start and finish of the first leg of the clothing and bivvying equipment, etc. dle, into the face of the wave, is used race. Following the end of the race, to keep the boat upright. If the paddle John called in at the 12 Mile and I John drove to Waimangaroa and said is thrust into the sea on the beach side gleaned the following snippets about with the tide still low, there were two of the kayak, this acts as a brake and the surf landing carnage by bribing or three offshore bar breaks depend- will flip the kayak rather quickly. him with lunch and cups of tea. (The ing on the size of the sets coming in. cover photo on the last newsletter Team Balance Vector arrived first Timing of a run through West Coast features John with his KASK dance and timed their run in perfectly. They surf is critical. Out the back of the troupe). broached several times in front of breakers, it is best to stop and time the breakers but landed without incident. number of big waves in each set. The The start of the race on 7 November Their skill level and experience in height of the swell and tidal condi- had been planned from Tauranga Bay, surf was most apparent according to tions on the west coasts of both North south of Cape Foulwind near West- John. and South islands dictates how many port, but the passage of a cold front breaker zones there are to negotiate. had left a south-westerly swell which The carnage began in earnest when Off the sandy beaches of both islands, closed out the bay with lines of surf. boats from further back down the field there are sand or gravel bars, which The start was moved to a gentle sandy began arriving. Some picked their way run parallel to the beach, and which beach on the north side of the Buller through the surf zones only to be are occasionally broken by rip chan- River breakwater - a great wave ski clobbered by bumper dumpers. Those nels or gutters. John noted at spot in summer - with the first kayak attempting to paddle in at 90˚ to the Waimangaroa, a direct approach to leg, on a north-east coastal course to waves, without broaching in front of the river mouth could have led to a the beach at Waimangaroa, shortened the big breakers, executed graceful smoother run into the river, but from from 26 to 14km. 180˚ endovers or loops, often with the offshore this would not have been bow paddler buried completely. The easy to see. At low tide, the offshore Conditions were: 1.5m south-west- most spectacular of the endovers bars are naturally shallower and this erly swell, no wind, tide low and on earned applause from the hordes of causes another one or two breaker the make. Offshore, jet skis and IRB’s waiting photographers. At one stage zones over the bars to be negotiated. ready to rescue capsized paddlers, and there were six capsized boats in the a medical team on the beach. John surf with no one in them. The House After carefully timing the frequency noted the leading competitors were of Travel team spent a long time en- of the sets, the technique is to sneak to quickly out through the surf and turned deavouring to swim to the beach and the edge of the first breaker zone, wait directly for Waimangaroa while other arrived rather battered and bruised. for a the last wave of a set to go teams in doubles, who lacked surf through, and then adopt a flailing sprint experience and obviously had a strug- Several boats were damaged, several mode though the aftermath of that last gle to clear the breakers, continued broken completely in half, and sev- broken wave, into the unbroken water seawards towards Australia for some eral were lost completely, with one before the next breaker zone. distance before turning for picked up five kilometres to the north. Waimangaroa. There were lots of cap- One manufacturer of race boats who If caught by a broken wave roaring sizes, one team from the UK capsiz- apparently had a high proportion of towards you, the broach technique is ing four times before clearing the surf. boats broken, turned up at the beach put into play; turning the boat so it and offered a repair service to teams will be parallel to the face of breaker. The kayaks were all doubles. John so they could complete other pad- Once the washing machine action of reckoned he didn’t see a single plastic dling legs. the breaker subsides, the boat is

7 No. 119 October - November 2005 straightened up and paddled to the severe body damage. very spectacular 180˚ stern over bow rear of the next zone where the tech- loop, or endover. nique is repeated. Why broach? Well the answer is pretty clear from John’s photo sequence be- The moral to the Waimangaroa surf In some of John’s photos, rudders are low. With surf over a height of 1.5 - or kayak carnage is that if you are con- shown deployed, that is in the down even 1m with bumper dumpers - dur- sidering an open coast trip where surf position. Rudders should always be ing a run with a kayak at 90˚ to the landings are anticipated, practice, up and the deploying lines secured in wave, that is directly towards the practice and practice in real surf con- deck cam cleats before entering a surf beach, the stern is picked up and lifted ditions before the trip. zone. Several reasons; the main one is by the face of the breaker. The bow the 18 knot speed of a broaching run digs in at the face of the wave which My thanks to John Kirk-Anderson for can bend or damage a rudder, and if imparts a rather instantaneous brak- providing the marvellous photos. you have an out of boat experience, a ing motion to the forward motion of Paul Caffyn deployed rudder could impart some the kayak. This leads without fail to a

8 The Sea Canoeist Newsletter

I think this sequence should be titled, ‘Going, going.. gone!’ Photos: © John Kirk- Anderson, ‘The Press’

9 No. 119 October - November 2005

blue berets of the United Nations and and still conditions with fantastic scen- became familiar with our temporary ery I passed a small harbour and group OVERSEASOVERSEAS new home in the once grand and now of houses. I espied a lone figure (the derelict Ledra Palace Hotel and set- military marine commander) jauntily TRIPTRIP REPORTSREPORTS tled into the new work regime it be- waving his arms (ordering me to stop) came apparent there would be an op- at me from the balcony (the Observa- Nine Years for First Solo portunity for both work and play. tion Post) of an impressive looking Circumnavigation of holiday villa (the marine guardforce Cyprus…..or not? My application to obtain permission headquarters). Nice folk these I to paddle in the TRNC was never thought. I’m so looking forward to Andy Lukes really expected to work as the strict meeting local folk and drinking Effes military regime in the North of the (fantastic local beer) with them. A Cyprus is the third largest island in the island was not an open and friendly few minutes later I was startled from Mediterranean (after Sicily and Sar- one. Numerous ‘Out of Bounds ‘signs my drinking reverie by the roar of a dinia) with a coastline of 648 km - and armed guards were posted high speed motor patrol boat as it hit according to the CIA website. I reckon throughout the countryside. The re- 20 knots leaving the base. The penny I may have completed the first solo ply to my request was short and curt then dropped and I realised I was up circumnavigation. If true it’ll also be and ‘NO’ and was no surprise. So it the proverbial creek. I turned my the fastest and that’s a record which was then time to engage with the old Skerry sideways to show I was not will stand for ….not a long time. That’s adage of ‘ What the eye don’t see the planning to make a run for it. because it’s taken me 9 years. That’s heart don’t grieve’. I determined to an average daily distance…non tidal set off and meet trouble as it might As the patrol boat drew closer I was so no tidal assist here of about 95m a occur. It didn’t take long! slightly concerned to see it was crewed day. Hmmm - at a speed peaking with very young looking sailors sport- around 40cm an hour. And so a leg- Armed with a bright yellow plastic ing some pretty impressive looking end is born and my place in history is Skerray I started my trip in the TRNC’s weaponry ranging from a sinister look- assured. For the more serious pad- Kokkina Enclave towards the west of ing 20mm quick fire cannon in the dlers it actually took me 27 days over the island. The intention was to pad- bows to a couple of fixed machine a 9 year period which is a slightly dle for a day or so in my days off and guns each side in the waist. Just to top more respectable 30km/day and I’m see how much of the North coast I this off all the sailors had automatic satisfied enough with that. could see. I would drive my shiny rifles strapped to their backs – I was white UN landrover with the kayak half expecting them to have daggers Cyprus is a divided island and has bungied on the roof atop a borrowed between their teeth. As the patrol boat been since a short and bloody civil sun lounger mattress and park up and swept past I got the distinct impres- war in 1974 which has left two oppos- then set off. After a day or 2 of sion this was all show and that they ing sides of Turkish Cypriots and paddling I would hitch hike/march were in fact very dodgy, albeit deter- Greek Cypriots unable to reach a sat- back. I had no real plan of timing at mined, sailors. This determination isfactory settlement. In the North is the start. It was simply a pleasant way became abundantly apparent as they the self proclaimed Turkish Republic of sending my off-duty time. repeatedly tried to approach my bows of Northern Cyprus or TRNC, a state to get hold of my kayak but kept not recognised by the UN. In the My first problems started on day 2 missing. South is the Republic of Cyprus and it when the (nowadays) ever- friendly has 2 British Sovereign Bases. Liter- Argentineans in UN Sector 1 on the The turbulence they set up was now ally holding North and South apart is west side of the island set me off getting more worrying than the threat the United Nations Peacekeeping having looked after me superbly the of being shot at – the Turkish military Force in Cyprus known as UNFICYP. evening before. I was dropped off on and wild west cowboys fire warning Now I was in UNFICYP in 1996 and a beach just inside the TRNC with the shots. The British Army does not – that gave me the edge over everyone intention of paddling eastwards for a too many things could go Pete Tongue else who might have wanted to paddle day up into Morphou Bay and then (wrong). Anyway, after much faffing there because I had the connections, scrounging a lift back to the about I broke the deadlock by using and a UN blue hat that got me out of a Argentinean Base UN base and my my local linguistic skills (energetic couple of fairly hairy trouble spots. vehicle. I should first explain that arm waving and very loud and very there were at that time significant slow English) and we established I My story starts when my Regiment sensitivities about the Maritime Se- would paddle to them. My bows were was sent to the island’s divided capi- curity Line, in essence the no mans pounced upon by a young seaman (no tal, Nicosia, for a 6 month long UN land (sea) between the 2 sides and it shoes!) and he attached a 2" hawser tour of duty from June to December was this that got me arrested for the through my deck lines – no chance of 1996. I was an Artillery Major, a first time. slipping that off then. Then without Battery Commander of 160 men and so much as a ‘by your leave’ they women. As we donned the famous After pootling along in superb quiet opened the throttle to full and yanked

10 The Sea Canoeist Newsletter

me 90 degrees left and sped off at high rally black. I hate it when it does that. acts as a great personal motivator for speed back to the harbour with me Then this flipping head pops up 10 solo paddlers. Just 1 more km. Just a frantically low bracing and trying to feet in front of me. I later learned from bit faster. I managed to clock over look as if this was all pretty normal. some marine scientist fellow that there 12kph on surf near Paphos. Petty were about 6 pairs breeding around there weren’t more days like that. The Once in the harbour I quickly tried to Cyprus. I only ever saw the one rudder modification I did to the Skerry become an appropriately dignified though. was a bit dodgy and I had the offer of British officer, so the had a Dagger, and a proper rudder, for the to go and I was led off to see the head The worst scare I had was near last 5 days. The final bit of must - honcho. Well I can say he was pretty Kormaki point in the north west of the have kit for me is Army boiled sweets. unimpressed with my story initially. island; one of the most beautiful spots There’s just enough in a packet for 1 My UN hat (and ID card) relaxed him and almost a forgotten secret. I was every _ hour for 12 hours….in fact a little. I learned he, like me, was a on a 6 km no-land leg of the trip and as there are 24. Major. I was delighted to discover the wind picked up I put my hood up that the literal Turkish translation to keep the noise of the wind down a Now I was more organised I did longer means ‘ Leader of a Thousand’. Cool. bit. This was to keep the noise down days, paddled faster and camped more So I’m a Leader of a Thousand. I and to stop my ears from flapping, in as the desire to circumnavigate be- nearly creased up though when he the event the only part of me that came achievable. The best wilder- patiently explained the Turkish word. didn’t. Well it worked OK although I ness scenery in the south is around the So now I’m even more thrilled to be a did it once with the car radio to keep Akamas peninsular where stunning Bin Basher. We chilled out some the dying engine noise at bay and the sunsets are best seen from the beach more and chatted about the Bronze engine seized so I won’t try that again. as darkness falls very quickly during age settlement on the nearby island in But the hood thing did work and I summer. the forbidden military area. He gave sang ‘I vow to thee my country’ and me Ade Chai (Tea of the Islands) ‘whenever I feel afraid’ which was A short way east of Limassol is a which is bogging and I smiled a lot nice. I modified the words to the lovely stretch of coastline with amaz- and drank it all down enthusiastically. second one. I think an improvement ing rock formations and incredibly I invited him up to a Regimental Din- by including the words shhh, hitting smooth rocks which flow down to the ner Night in Nicosia, and he let me go. and bricks. sea in sinuous and elegant displays. He never came - pity really. With small secret coves and gloomy Of course Cyprus is famous for its caves it is also a very popular naturists Well the days passed and my routine Loggerhead and Green turtles and on area although when I paddled through got slicker. On my 2 days off I would one memorable occasion I was surf- during early October I was highly drive to the last take-out point and ing badly ashore, craning my neck to unimpressed to find that it was occu- restart loaded with loads of water, a see what the beach was made of. The pied only by old blokes – I presume all tent and a box of Army rations. Hav- dunes looked nice but a sandy beach Germans. Still the rock formations, ing camped on a beach somewhere I too would be good when I was quite the kingfishers and the flying fish would hitch hike or rendezvous with a put off my last few strokes by a turtle were really very nice too. chum. During my 6 month tour be- surfing ashore with me. Anyway that sides doing my day job I managed to resulted in a mystery move by me and So in sum it took me 27 days of get 11 days on the water and covered a less than impressive bongoslide onto paddling which ranged from 3 to 50km nearly all the North coast. Major the (sandy – whew) beach. Lucky too a day. For those who wish to paddle thrills were the superb surf at Morphou because 50 metres further up was the in Cyprus the best paddling is spring Bay on the west coast, the finding of start of a 10km no land zone of jagged and autumn. Summer is a bit too hot interesting things ranging from der- high rocks. My UN tour finished in and winter is a bit too choppy. The elict bunkers and spent ammunition November 1996 and I headed back to people North and South are incred- cases from the 1974 war to ancient Newcastle and more normal paddling. ibly friendly. Now that the South is in ruins and pottery. Wildlife was inter- the EU and Turkey wants to join eve- esting though not especially abun- I was delighted to be posted back to ryone, including the military, is much dant. Cyprus in 2003 where the urge to nicer than a few years ago. finish what I’d started took hold. This I was surprised (actually very startled time I was more organised. I modi- I paddle solo because I have no mates indeed) to see a grey seal who came to fied a plastic Skerry with a foot pump – so I thought! I finished with a 45km have a look at me near the old Cyprus and a rudder. If you think, as I used to, paddle ending up where we live in Mining Corporation works at that rudders are for girls and Ameri- Dhekelia. My wife organised loads Morphou. It was a spooky setting cans then try one. They are must-have of friends to wave me in and the local with derelict gantries and cranes. A bits of kit. I fitted a very nice knee radio and newspaper were there too. I couple of old rusting ships were tube out of a length of old plastic drain was chuffed it was a force 6 gusting 7 washed up on the beach and the place pipe and scrounged a GPS. That’s according to the knowledgeable sail- was eerily quiet and the water unnatu- another nice to have gadget which ors there because it was MUCH

11 No. 119 October - November 2005 smaller than a very long hour I had paddling around Kormakiti Point. And so I paddled in through the surf trying to look good and wave at the people and smile and not capsize into the quiet little harbour at the Dhekelia Officers’ Club with the sun setting behind me.

First solo circumnavigation of Cy- prus? Maybe, hopefully. Fastest - I’ll bet not for long. Andy Lukes

Biographical Note: Andy Lukes is a British Army Major. With his email he noted: You may recall you asked if I would write a piece for your magazine/news- letter. Well the Cyprus solo circum- navigation is now done. I’m pleased with my very modest achievement – 650 km in 27 days (spread over 9 years!) I’m hardly going to pass into legend but it is possibly a first and I’ll bet now things are much quieter, militarily and politically, it will not be long before someone does it and rather quicker. It was huge fun to do and I’m a better paddler at the end of it. Although I had only a couple of hairy days I didn’t get knocked over once. I’d be pleased to see any- one from NZ who wants to come to Cyprus paddling and would gladly Andy during his solo circumnavigation of Cyprus give hints and tips – feel free to pass I’ll be here though for only a few more UK in the summer. I’m not sure if I’ll on my email address: months. In March 2006 I finish this get a chance to paddle much around [email protected] tour of duty and will go to Afghani- Kandahar…but we’ll see. stan for 6 months before a posting to CircumnavigatingCircumnavigating TasmaniaTasmania by Alon Ohad The wind was blowing strongly in our going through Misha’s mind, while league of paddlers. While staying in faces, powerful winds of 20 – 25 knots. he is paddling by my side. I don’t Wales, Nigel Dennis, one of the most A spray of salty water penetrated into know how much more I can take. senior paddlers in the world planted in our eyes and wet our faces. I did not During the last week we were hit hard, our minds the idea to circumnavigate feel like I was paddling in water, I felt day after day, as if we were put to the Ireland. At the end we decided to as if I was in a sand pit. Painful test. circumnavigate Tasmania, though shoulders, sore tendons…. it’s cold Irish pubs sounded like a friendlier and it was hard and miserable. I met Misha through an Israeli sea- environment comparing to the famous kayaking club. When I joined the club "roaring forties" gales of the Southern We were already well into the expedi- as a new and inexperienced kayaker, Ocean. In terms of distance it is quite tion. The paddling to the island of Misha was already a senior. After two similar. Maria should have taken 3 hours, in- years we decided to do advanced train- stead it took 6. The thoughts in my ing in Wales, Britain. In hindsight, The preparation was not easy. An head were what am I actually doing this training changed our lives. Until expedition as such can be very costly here? Why am I putting myself through then we were reasonable paddlers, but so in order to get financial assistance this torture? How much more can I never believed we could take on a real we looked for sponsors. It took us handle? The exact same thoughts are challenge. This belonged to another months to prepare the gear, to learn

12 The Sea Canoeist Newsletter

about the challenges we were going to conditions of the Antarctica. The hor- huge dampers shattering on Ocean face and tried to prepare ourselves for rible storms there create enormous Beach as you arrive to Strahan. The every possible scenario. waves that travel over thousands of coast is 60km long and impossible to miles and crash on the Tasmanian land on. The big day arrived. On 24 January, shore with great power. One of those 2005, at 17:00 afternoon we took off. waves broke on us (but let’s not rush The weather forecast for the next two It was a nice day. We were alone; we the ending). days was good, but in three days a big took off with no cheering, only with a storm was expected, we still had over feeling of confusion of whether we The North West point was approach- 130km left between Temma and Mac- could do it. During the first few days ing. The sea we were so afraid of was quarie Harbour where the town we were both very uptight. We argued now revealed. I was excited. I haven’t Strahan was. We decided to get there over silly things. I guess it was mainly paddled yet in the west coast of an at any cost, so we wouldn’t get stuck because of the pressure we were both ocean. The west coast of Tasmania on a deserted beach while the storm under. After two days we made our had already destroyed tens if not hun- was raging. first mistake. Unfortunately it wasn’t dreds of boats so far. We were pad- the last one. dling in calm and quiet waters, sea We were heading for a couple of days birds around us; in the shallow water of difficult and endless paddling. We We arrived to the region of Robins we saw stingrays floating elegantly. took off on the first day and 64km Island with intentions to cross the We got out to the open sea where the later we stopped for the night. We canal between the Robins Island and waves were a lot taller, the waves both knew the next day was going to Tasmania during high tide. We did were 3 meters and the wind was be even more difficult. We sat in our not calculate the correct time of the slightly stronger. Suddenly, without kayaks for 11 hours straight, not get- high and low tides and as a result we any warning a huge wave was coming ting out even once. The blood blisters paddled against the current and later towards us, almost breaking on us. on our hands burst. Our armpits were were forced to get out of our kayaks Apprehensively we moved on. The burning and our backs were so painful and drag them in shallow water for a sea here was higher than anywhere that we couldn’t straighten up. We fair distance. Eventually we had to else in the north. After two days of were constantly hungry due to the stop for a very early night. Here we paddling we arrived to Temma, a small huge efforts of paddling long dis- were welcomed by giant flies that at fishermen’s village in the north west tances day after day. I don’t know first we ignored, but with the first of Tasmania. how we did it but we bit the storm. We sting we realized that we better de- managed to arrive to Strahan. fend ourselves. There are a few settlements in the west coast, scattered along the way to Completely exhausted we rolled out Later we learnt that those flies called Strahan, a little tourist town in the of our kayaks. We had difficulties March flies will be following us all middle of the west coast. Further south standing up straight. We looked terri- the way. Their sting is most unpleas- of Strahan there are hundreds of kilo- ble. A couple walking on the beach ant and the irritation lasts approx. five metres of nature reserves, without stopped to inquire. The horrified look days. Most annoying was that the roads or people. The weather is colder, on their faces when they saw our March fly’s presence was not limited the water temperature is lower and the blisters explained our terrible state. to March only; it is common most of storms are heavier. A difficult place In spite of our unstable physical con- the year. In the days to come these but breathtakingly beautiful. dition we were satisfied with our flies would force us to shorten our achievement for the day, especially breaks. As we were heading further In Temma we landed on a private knowing we had one or two days of south more and more flies with far beach of a local fisherman called Gary. rest ahead of us. The two days turned more aggression would greet us. He invited us into his home, where we into 4 long days, we could not sit and had a hot shower; this was not a small wait any longer. After a good night sleep at Robins treat considering that in the last 4 days Island, we took off at noon. The high our showers were in cold and salty Surprisingly even though we were 6 tide finally enabled us to cross the water. After a good shower and a km from Strahan to the exposed beach, shallow part of the canal. We got good meal (our food was always good, we could still hear the loud noise of closer to the north western part of perhaps because we were always hun- the waves. This storm was indeed Tasmania heading towards the west gry), we sat down to chat with Gary very violent; it was described on the coast of the island. The west coast is over a glass of beer. This was a con- news as the storm of the century. The notorious for its high waves breaking versation we could have done with- waves broke the windows of the ferry on the sharp reefs which are scattered out. Instead of encouraging us, he connecting to Melbourne and Tasma- along the beach. In areas where there simply described the water conditions nia, 22 meters above sea level. Finally are no reefs only sandy beaches, the in the west coast. The peak of the after a few days of rest, we so desper- huge waves crashing on the shore conversation was when he told us that ately needed, we took off again. There could destroy yachts let alone small he already lost two boats in the south were 350km ahead of us and not a kayaks. This is due to the extreme west cape. He described in details the living soul in sight. We equipped our-

13 No. 119 October - November 2005 selves with food for two weeks. We machine spin, I felt the wave burying items for safety measures like a VHF got our water from the rivers and the me further into the water. This took communication system. It enables springs. only seconds… then silence. Auto- communication with the fishermen or matically I positioned the paddle ready with the coast guards if in the area. After a day and a half of paddling we for an Eskimo roll, waiting for the During those days with no cellular arrived to Low Rocky Point – where familiar feeling of the blade floating reception, we tried to contact the fish- the south west of the island officially on the water so I could roll… but it did ing boats and although we were only starts. We crossed that protruding spot not happen. I felt how the kayak kept 50 meters away from one, there was very quickly. The reception of the climbing up from the bottom of the no response. It was most frightening south west wasn’t very pleasant. The sea. I was buried a few meters under when there was no response even when heavy fog forced us to navigate with a the water. we used the emergency channel (16). compass only. It was impossible to Finally, the only time we used our recognize anything on the coast line. After a relatively long period of time, communication system was during a We slowly moved on approaching the when thoughts of getting out of the quarrel on the water; we were yelling beach and the fog began to clear up to kayak and swimming up crossed my at each other from a distance, neither reveal the hills. mind, I arrived to the surface. I rolled of us was prepared to get closer, so and looked for Misha. He was 30 when we got sick of shouting we We came across a fisherman’s boat meters away from me, swimming back decided to use our VHF. No doubt hidden amongst the reefs. A short to his kayak. He pulled out his emer- that this is a very essential item for conversation with the fishermen indi- gency paddle that was attached to his such an expedition… cated a small storm for the next day kayak and performed a re-entry and and we also topped up our water sup- roll. We were a lot closer to the reefs In the absence of proper weather fore- ply. We continued towards Nye Bay as the wave carried us for a distance of cast in the south west, we were forced where we would spend the night. As 100m. I started paddling towards him. to settle for a barometer which we had the fishermen suggested we paddled On the way I found my hat that blew with us, a fisherman or a yacht we met carefully behind the reefs avoiding off my head and Misha’s paddle that on the way (there were not too many breaking waves. We crossed a section not only was pulled out of his hands, of those). where the waves were breaking espe- but the was also torn cially high and we arrived to a spot from the strong wave. I also found We were approaching Port Davey, that seemed quiet; we slowed down a Misha’s sandal floating on the water. one of the largest natural harbours in bit and than suddenly without any Lost in the wave were the sea maps of the world. Obviously there is no civi- warning from nowhere, a gigantic the south west of the island (but we lization but the harbour is used for a wave rose to six meters high. The were still left the topographic maps), good hiding spot for yachts and fish- eternity of those few seconds I will Misha’s sandal and a precious bottle ermen sailing in the south west waters never forget. of water. I was still shaking from the of Tasmania. The barometer dropped adrenaline rush and Misha was shiv- rapidly in the last few hours; 16 milli- Unwillingly, a shout escaped my ering from the cold. We paddled away bars within 5 hours. We saw a yacht throat. Misha, who was 20m ahead of from there fast and landed within 30 rushing to find shelter in the harbour. me prepared his paddle against the min. in Nye Bay. We dried ourselves We asked them what would be the wave and started rolling over towards and dressed in warm cloths. Misha anticipated weather; northern wind, it in order to slow down and soften the who stayed only 3 minutes under the 30 knots. “You should get the f#%& hit. I simply prepared the paddle and water was freezing cold. We suddenly out of here and go down to the beach”. leaned into the wave. My biggest fear realized how tangible the danger of We carried on paddling for another was the reefs that were only 200m Hypothermia is. one and half hours until we arrived to from us. A wave of that size could the entrance of the harbour. easily drag us to those reefs and smash the kayaks and us into pieces. We Misha and I were a bit embarrassed. There was a moderate southern wind actually felt our lives were in danger. Embarrassed that we got to this situa- which slowly eased off. At the en- The wave broke exactly on us. The tion where our lives were in danger. trance to the harbour we were won- power was enormous. We were embarrassed because we dering whether we should look for should never have got into this situa- shelter or to cross the bay to not waste I have surfed quite a bit on high seas tion. This was our first lesson and a time. Another yacht arrived, we asked and I have experienced strong breaks few more were lined up for us. them also for the expected forecast but this was exceptional. The wave Inna, Misha’s wife was reporting and their answer was 20 knots north- was short and powerful. The paddle weather forecasts in short messages western wind. After a short contem- immediately snapped from my right to our cellular phones. Needless to plation we decided to cross the har- hand. I was holding it in my left hand mention that from the time we left bour. 30 knots wind is bearable; it with all my strength; I nearly dislo- Strahan and through the week we had isn’t pleasant, but not dangerous so 20 cated my left shoulder. After a few no reception. As in every expedition it knots should not be a problem. This rolls in the water, like in a washing is important to take some important was a fatal mistake.

14 The Sea Canoeist Newsletter

tion of the kayak as this was diverting ple of days would be relatively fast; As we were crossing the harbour, a us off course. The helmet that was 60km a day. The wind was strong but distance of 10 km, the northern wind placed on the back deck of the kayak in our favour. We arrived at Bruny was getting stronger and stronger. At caught the side wind like a sail and Island at dark. There were caravans first we welcomed the wind from the almost caused me to capsize. I had to and a restaurant on site but we soon back assisting us, but soon the wind take it off and put it inside the cockpit found out that the restaurant was was too strong to be helpful. The wind to make it easier to paddle. closed. We were exposed again to the reached 35 knots speed. It was still amazing Tasmania hospitality. Jenny possible to paddle although this kind We finally approached our last possi- and Fred, the owners of the site in- of wind but is border line in terms of ble landing point. After a short hesita- vited us to their home for a pleasant paddling. tion we decided to continue. It meant homely dinner with warmth and love. A slightly stronger wind would not committing ourselves to the last leg of The weather wasn’t very promising have allowed us to paddle. We were 2 the south west. We would not be able so we had no choice but to stay for two or 3 kms from the corner of the bay. to turn around and paddle against such days in Bruny. At least we were in Around the corner we would enjoy a strong wind. The wind continued to pleasant and inviting company. The reasonable shelter. get stronger and wilder which made it next day, frustrated from waiting very difficult for us. We arrived to the around we paddled to the point that The wind was hitting hard, it reached corner, the corner where Gary the was supposed to shorten our next day 45 knots, splashing huge quantities of experienced fisherman who knows by a few kilometres. We paddled 14km water towards us. The wind was get- the water very well, lost two boats in difficult conditions that saved us 2 ting stronger to a speed we had never with strong motors. -3 km all together. It was rather funny experienced. Steam was spiralling up We paddled around the south west to think that after such long and hard like a small tornado. The wind was cape, worrying about the reefs scat- paddling we would prefer to paddle threatening to turn on us. A gloomy tered around there. We finished encir- instead of resting in every given mo- feeling came over me. Occasionally I cling the protruding cliff and the con- ment. managed to immerse the paddle hope- trast was amazing! Silence, the sea lessly trying to move on. After a while was calm, there were no waves and The best day of the trip began. There that seemed like an eternity we finally lots of seals were resting on the rocks was over 70 km ahead of us, crossing got to the other side of the bay. staring at us in boredom. the Tasman Peninsula. This was just long paddling; we were mentally very The wind was still very strong but it at We finished the hardest and most chal- well prepared so we did not suffer too least allowed us to do some paddling. lenging part of the expedition. Well, much. We learned that the more pre- Completely exhausted from the strug- as we were led to believe. I don’t pared we were for the worse the easier gle of the wind we landed on the first know what was harder: battling with a it would be to cope with the difficul- beach we saw. Lesson number 2: it’s complex and interesting sea or just ties. Some days that were supposed to not enough to own a barometer, you simply paddling endlessly in a calm be easy on paper, in hindsight were should also believe what it reports. sea. We were then not quite half way harder than expected. Although ob- Another day and we are across the through. jectively those were not the hardest south western part of Tasmania. days. So in short, it’s all in the mind. In the next few days we noticed a very After crossing to Tasman Island the The trauma of the day before encour- interesting phenomenon. Whenever a return was amazing. aged us to get out and put an end to this wandering cloud appeared above us, nightmare of the south west of Tas- it would bring complete winter with Wild scenery of impressive rocks was mania. Looking back, the high sea it; cold, wind and rain. The moment revealed in front of our eyes. Further that was so intimidating at first be- the cloud was gone, sun would shine on we arrived to Cape Pillar and there came routine and it did not worry us as though summer returned. This phe- was the Totem Pole, a square pillar any more. We still had 24km to reach nomenon was a bit annoying because towering 70 meters. The place repre- the corner. Our last possible landing we never knew what type of clothing sents a popular climbing site and it point was located 11km from the cor- we should wear. was amazing to watch climbers on ner. The 30 knots wind and 5 meters this tall pillar. The wild beauty of this waves from behind were helpful. We Paddling in the south part of the island area even after 76km gave us energy paddled close to the amazing cliffs, was difficult not because of the condi- to enter the caves and explore the the high sea so close to the cliffs made tions, those were good and not be- coast line. This was literally one of the it difficult to paddle in the confused cause of tiredness but because the most astounding paddling we had. water. pressure was off. The huge worry prior to our arrival to the south west of (To be continued in KASK The wind got stronger and shifted its the island was now gone and all that newsletter No. 120) direction, blowing diagonally across was left was to paddle the next half of us. This made our paddling even the distance without the challenge of harder. We had to correct the direc- the rough seas. Paddling the next cou-

15 No. 119 October - November 2005

wonderful speculations especially by if not geographically part of Alaska. non-experts. In spite of the undoubted achieve- BOOKBOOK REVIEWREVIEW ments of the voyage, the method of Kennewick Man himself has been the narration I found halting and ulti- Title: ‘In the Wake of the Jomon’ source of a vast amount of wild fan- mately irritating. Turk jumps from Subtitle: ‘Stone Age Mariners and a tasy, including that he was Caucasian topic to topic on almost every page, Voyage Across the Pacific’ and came from Europe. Various from an incident on the voyage, to Author: Jon Turk groups have tied the US courts up for snippets about his own life, to Published: 2005 years all claiming ownership of the meanderings about early human his- Publisher: McGraw-Hill, USA skeleton. A group of American Sa- tory and why early people went ex- ISBN: 0-07-144902-7 moans, for example, claimed that ploring, to the overriding and, for me, Contents: Hardback, dustjacket, 287 America was first colonised by Sa- irritating presence of his invisible an- pages, annotated bibliography, maps moans and so Kennewick Man was a cient vibrating Jomon travelling com- and thumbnail size photos only. Samoan and belonged to them [even panions. Size:160 x 235mm though we all know that America was Price: NZ$ 42 settled by humans at least 9,000 years It is undoubtedly a marvellous sea Availability: CoW in ChCh, Capital before Samoa!]. A few years ago the kayak voyage but sadly one quite Books Wgtn, Boat Books Auckland. courts sensibly ruled that Kennewick spoiled in the telling. Reviewed by: Kerry Howe Man is ancestral to and so belongs to 5 North American Indian tribes in the Kerry Howe locality where he was found. (Kerry Howe is a Massey University When Paul Caffyn asked me to re- history professor, and author of sev- view this book I was very keen to do But Turk is the Romantic. He has read eral books including a recent sea kayak so since it involves two of my major some of the scientific literature, or so instruction manual.) interests – sea kayaking and early he claims, though he does admit to human history. It’s a fair though not using a ‘ scattergun approach, follow- compelling account of a major sea ing leads that struck … [his] fancy.’ kayak journey from Japan to St. Law- He wanted to retrace the route of his rence Island, Alaska, but its prehis- Jomon sea kayakers as they became DVDDVD REVIEWREVIEW tory is little more than wild conjec- colonisers of America – he wanted ‘to ture. share the vibrations of that journey, to The Kayak Roll better understand my ancestors…..’ Produced by Performance Turk’s basic argument is that the skel- You can see where this is all going – Video eton of Kennewick Man that was found he’s a kind of badly informed Indiana Reviewed by Susan Cade in Washington State in 1996 and dated Jones out on a pseudo-quest for an- Length: 55min to about 9,500 years ago came from cient knowledge and experience. Japan. He thus argues that the first Price: $55.00 people who settled North America So what of his journey itself. It is a were ancient peoples based in Japan – major sea kayak expedition of some The DVD cover states that this video, the Jomon. He further makes the claim 3,000 miles over two seasons across ‘demonstrates and explains a smooth that their mode of transport across the some pretty wild seas, though his voy- and effortless roll. Crystal clear un- north Pacific was paddling hollowed age from northern Japan to the derwater footage animation and ex- out logs. All of this is simply fanciful, Kamchatka Peninsula was in a sail planations make this a production and very bad prehistory. powered kayak with two you will not want to miss’ and a keel. The journey is exciting It is generally believed that humans enough with predictable bureaucratic/ I was a bit hesitant about getting this probably first entered the Americas security difficulties with Japanese and DVD, wondering if it would match up across the frozen Bering Strait some- Russian authorities, storms, danger- with the above hype and was very time after the height of the last Ice ous wildlife, cold and exhaustion. For impressed that it did, plus more. If you Age 18,000 years ago. A generalised the voyage from Kamchatka, Turk are like me, getting to grips with un- early North American human culture, and his companions reverted to more derstanding of Eskimo rolling, then termed Clovis culture, is evident by at orthodox single hull sea kayaks since this is one DVD to get. This is cer- least 12,000 years ago. But there is no they found that their trimaran sailboats, tainly the best training Kayak training evidence of exactly where its more while more stable and at times much DVD I have seen, supporting from a immediate Asian/Siberian origin was, faster, could not cover required aver- no skill base the development of an or what was the exact route (land/ age distances as well as paddle power effortless sweep roll with a torso twist. sea?) into the Americas, or precisely due to the vagaries of the winds. The This is a safe and protected roll, pro- when and how it came. So far, ar- intrepid paddlers eventually made it tecting your shoulder and starting the chaeological, linguistic and genetic half way across Bering Strait to St. boat rolling up just about as soon as research has no specific answers, Lawrence Island which is politically you start. This roll keeps your body in though there are many weird and

16 The Sea Canoeist Newsletter

a protected position, as your torso navigation of diagnostics, offers solu- stays near the surface and protects tions to help tune-up or sort out that your shoulder by keeping you arms laboured roll for quick results. 20062006 WETWET low and in front of you torso, one hand ending up in ‘pizza position’. If there was a large digital display WESTWEST FILMFILM screen at the pool where you are train- FESTIVALFESTIVAL Some of the concepts in, ‘The Kayak ing it would be an amazing tool to use Roll’ which I found really helpful ‘The Kayak Roll’ combined with dig- Venue: Hokitika were, explaining the rolling knee, ital camera to give instant feedback, Date: 5 - 8 January 2006 showing the importance of keeping the two would make training a de- by Dave Kwant you head down to keep your rolling light. After training nights currently, knee engaged, the value of the torso on many occasions I have come home The Wet West Film Festival was set twist and shedding the resistance with with others to review the DVD in- up a couple of years ago and this your paddle. The knee and torso mus- struction and also watch and analyse January 2006 will be our second Fes- cles being the key energizers. The our rolling training footage. As a group tival. Our aims are pretty simple - we latter was a new understanding for me we are getting much more critical, as enjoy water and wanted to celebrate it because I had had the belief, as I am we are developing an eye for the skills through film. We invite film makers sure many do, that you use the angle we are developing. to submit their films to the festival for of the blade to help support you to get free and compete for several prizes in back up. I had been told about the hip So if you a want to develop a good different categories. Last year’s festi- flick, (well I had been doing what this roll, improve you technique and learn val was very successful and received meant to me!), but after watching the more. I certainly recommend ‘The good reviews. We had an excellent DVD I appreciated that there was a lot Kayak Roll’, as top billing. This DVD panel of judges and to our surprise more complexity to rolling than I had is fairly readily available in kayaking received a huge number of entries. understood. This training video gives shops, so that probably says some- clear step by step real life teaching thing too! Patron for the 2006 festival, Paul Caf- clips and also more graphic demon- fyn had a great idea of showing some strations giving a number of perspec- This video is produced and distrib- old sea kayak movies and the idea tives to get a clear understanding. uted by, Performance Video and In- came about that we would have a struction Inc. historical sea kayaking session pre- I then realized that I had to unlearn the www.performancevideo.com @2003. sented by Paul, kind of like 'an evening habits that I had learnt, that didn’t Presented by Dagger and Paddler with Paul watching his favourite work in my favour. I must admit that magazine with support of Bomber, movies'. over the years I had developed a few Kokatat, Watershed and Werner. of those in my ignorance through a We use two venues throughout the variety of teaching and practice, how- festival, a large but slightly run down ever I believe in retrospect I was at art deco theatre that seats around 300 times reinforcing my own understand- and a small and very comfortable DVD ing with a lack of knowledge base to theatre that seats around 30-40. I ex- make effective change. I needed to pect Paul will be running his session put into practice the techniques shown in the small DVD theatre. in this video. You can find out more about the Soon after this I had an hour’s skilled festival at the festival website: tuition and had a miracle of change www.wetwestfilmfest.com from the sweep deck roll to doing the sweep with torso twist, my rolling The sea kayak session is planned for technique improved so much that I the evening of Saturday 7 January. was on a real high. One of the other Films to be shown include the early things I really like about ‘The Kayak 1980’s East Greenland kayak expedi- Roll’ is the variety of instructors do- tion, led by Victorian Earle ing coaching and the learners who are Bloomfield, which attempted to re- a real variety of shapes and ages. This trace of the 1931 Gino Watkin’s open DVD is also designed for every skill boat trip down the south-east coast of level, from beginner to teacher. The Greenland. Justine Jorgensen’s sec- first part is a step by step real life ond installment of ‘This is the Sea’ teaching with beautifully woven in should be here in time for the evening. principle instruction and then a re- view of each step. The second half, the diagnostic section, which has easy

17 No. 119 October - November 2005 CALENDARCALENDAR

COASTBUSTERS 2006

Date: 17 - 19 March 2006 Venue: Milford Primary School, on edge of Lake Pupuke, Milford, North Shore City, Auckland.

Website: www.coastbusters.org.nz Registration forms downloadable from the website. The website will be progressively updated as speakers and sessions are finalized. Justine Jorgensen, and English paddler who paddled around Tasmania with two other English lasses early in 2005 has been invited as guest speaker. Justine also produced the ‘This is the Sea’ DVD which was reviewed in the last newsletter.

Kiwi Association of Sea Kayakers (NZ) inc. NoticeNotice ofof AnnualAnnual GeneralGeneral MeetingMeeting

The 2006 Annual general meeting of the Kiwi Association of Sea Kayakers (NZ) inc. will be held late afternoon 18 March 2006 at the Coastbusters 2006 Sea Kayak Symposium. All notices of motion/remits/apologies etc. should be forwarded to the KASK Administrator: Vanessa Hughes, P O Box 23, Runanga, 7854, West Coast. Email: [email protected]

It is a requirement of KASK’s constitution for all notices of motion and remits to be in the hands of the administrator 30 days prior to the start of the meeting. The AGM will also elect officers of the association, these are, President, Safety Officer, Conservation Officer, Instruction Officer, Publications Officer, and Forum Organiser. Nominations for Officers must be submitted by members in writing, signed by proposer, seconder, and nominee prior to the AGM. Nomination forms are available from the administrator at the above address.

Make your contribution to KASK and recreational seakayaking by having your say at the AGM. A great opportunity to contribute to KASK’s annual programme - have your say on issues facing the recreational sea kayaker, and to influence the future direction on national initiatives for sea kayaking like training and conservation.

Nominations are also requested for the two annual Graham Egarr Memorial paddle trophies: - in recognition for services to sea kayaking in New Zealand - in recognition of outstanding contributions to the KASK Newsletter These beautifully crafted trophies were built by John Dobbie, laminated wooden blades on a stand. Send nominations plus supporting information to the KASK Administrator.

ANNUAL SEA KAYAK PILGRIMAGE - RESCHEDULED Date: 29 - 30 April 2006 Venue: Ratimera Bay DoC campsite, Ruakaka Bay, Queen Charlotte Sound The November 2005 pilgrimage had to be cancelled at the last moment due to rather fresh 50 - 70 knot south-easterlies forecast through to Sunday afternoon. A tad too strong even for stalwart Vikings.

The pilgrimage is a gathering of paddlers for a formal dinner on the Saturday night, when an object of scorn and derision to sea kayakers is stoned, chanted at and then burnt. During past pilgrimages, mock ups of a river kayak and a jet ski have been sacrificed.

The phantom (alias AJ) has stipulated a dress theme for the Saturday night dinner of Vikings and Virgins.

18 The Sea Canoeist Newsletter

with a Policeman, and I thought you The mobster picks his jaw up off the HUMOURHUMOUR were bringing her back.” The Police- floor and says, “You’re bullshitting man said, “Have a nice day” me bro!” AFTERLIFE The man behind the counter looks at An elderly couple made a deal that CALL GIRL him and replies, “Well... you started whoever died first would somehow I checked into a hotel on a business it!” come back to inform the other of the trip and was a bit lonely so I thought afterlife. Their biggest fear was that I’d get me one of those girls you see TWENTY DOLLARS there really was no heaven. advertised in phone booths when On their wedding night, the young After a long life, the husband was the you’re calling for a taxi. I grabbed a bride approached her new husband first to go and, true to his word, a few card on my way in. It was an ad for a and asked for $20 for their first love- weeks later as his wife sat and watched girl calling herself Erogonique, a making encounter. In his highly TV, she heard a ghostly voice saying, lovely girl, bending over in the photo. aroused state, her husband readily “Maude! Maude!” She had all the right curves in all the agreed. This scenario was repeated “Is that you, John?” she asked as she right places, beautiful long wavy hair, each time they made love, for more looked in vain around the room. long graceful legs all the way up to than 30 years, with him thinking that her posterior. You know the kind. So it was a cute way for her to afford new The voice responded, “Yes Maude, I’m in my room and figure, what the clothes and other incidentals that she I’ve come back just like we agreed.” hell, I’ll give her a call. needed. “What’s it like, John?” Maude asked. “Hello” the woman says. God, she John said, “Well, I get up in the morn- sounded sexy. Arriving home around noon one day, ing and I have sex. Then I have break- “Hi, I hear you give a great massage she was surprised to find her husband fast, and after that more sex. I bathe in and I’d like you to come to my room in a very drunken state. During the the sun for a while and then I have sex and give me one. No, wait, I should next few minutes, he explained that twice. I have lunch, then have sex be straight with you. I’m in town all his employer was going through a pretty much all afternoon. After din- alone and what I really want is sex. I process of corporate downsizing, and ner I have sex until late at night and the want it hard, I want it hot, and I want he had been let go. next day it starts all over again.” it now. I’m talking kinky the whole It was unlikely that, at the age of 59, “Oh, John,” Maude said, “then surely night long. You name it, we’ll do it. he'd be able to find another position you must be in heaven!” Bring implements, toys, everything that paid anywhere near what he'd “Not exactly,” John said. “I’m a rabbit you’ve got in your bag of tricks. been earning, and therefore, they were on a farm somewhere near Cromwell.” We’ll go hot and heavy all night. Tie financially ruined. me up, cover me in chocolate syrup SPEEDING EXCUSE and whip cream, anything you want Calmly, his wife handed him a bank Keith bought a brand new Holden baby. Now, how does that sound.” book which showed more than 30 Monaro. He took off down the road, years of steady deposits and interest pushed it up to 150 km/hr, and was She says, “That sounds fantastic, but totalling nearly $1 million. Then she enjoying the wind blowing through for an outside line you need to press showed him certificates of deposits (thinning) hair. 9.” issued by the bank which were worth “This is great,” he thought and accel- over $2 million, and informed him erated to an even higher speed. Then, IN AN AUCKLAND that they were one of the largest he looked in his rear-view mirror, and WINZ OFFICE depositors in the bank. there was a Police Car. A patch wearing Gang Member walks Problem - thought Keith, and he floored into a local Auckland WINZ office, She explained that for the more than it some more, and flew down the road stomps straight up to the counter and three decades she had ‘charged’ him at over 210 km/hr to escape being says, “Hey bro, I hate living on the for sex, these holdings had multiplied stopped. He then thought, “What the dole eh. I wanna find a job.” and these were the results of her sav- hell am I doing? I’m too old for this The chap behind the counter replied,” ings and investments. kind of thing” and pulled over to the Your timing is amazing. We have Faced with evidence of cash and side of the road, and waited for the just got a job from a very wealthy investments worth over $3 million, Police car to catch up with him. man who wants a chauffeur / body- her husband was so astounded he The Policeman pulled in behind the guard for his sex mad daughter. You could barely speak, but finally he Monaro and walked up on the driver’s will have to drive around in a big found his voice and blurted out, “If I'd side. “Sir my Shift ends in five min- black Mercedes, but the suits, shirts, had any idea what you were doing, I utes and today is Friday the 13th. If and ties are provided. Because there would have given you all my busi- you can give me a good reason why are long hours in this job, meals will ness!” you were speeding that I’ve never heard be provided and you will also be before, I’ll let you go.” required to escort the young lady on That's when she shot him. The man looked back at the Policeman her overseas holidays. The salary You know, sometimes, men just don't and said, “Last week my wife ran off package is $200,000 a year.” know when to keep their mouths shut.

19 No. 119 October - November 2005 MAILEDMAILED TOTO

If undelivered, please return to: KASK , PO Box 23, Runanga, West Coast. 7854

KASK MEMBERSHIP POLICY Current membership fees are: - $35 for ordinary membership - $40 for family or joint membership - $35 for overseas membership - new members receive a free copy of the handbook - members should endeavour to renew by 1 August - the KASK financial year runs 1 August to 31 July the following year - a subscription due notice and up to two reminders are sent out with the newsletters between June and October - if a membership renewal is not received by 30 September, membership lapses - new members who join between 1 June and 31 July automatically get their membership credited to the following year, receiving a 14 month membership - the KASK committee puts its emphasis confirming renewals from existing members from July to October; and promoting new KASK memberships from November to February.

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