ISSN 1177-4177 THE SEA CANOEIST NEWSLETTER

The Journal of the Kiwi Association of Sea Kayakers (NZ) Inc - KASK No. 131 October - November 2007

The Sea Canoeist Newsletter INDEX EDITORIAL dumpers. As of today (19 December) EDITORIAL p. 3 So much to write about and so little Freya has completed what I view as space this editorial. the crucial stage around Fiordland, KASK & NETWORK REPORTS and as long as the brilliant La Nina National Pleasure Boat Forum Best wishes from Linda Ingram (photo summer continues, she should fi nish by Julie Reynolds p. 8 below) our very effi cient KASK ad- her South Island circuit by at Okiwi ministrator, and myself, for the Festive Bay (south-west of French Pass) in SAFETY Season and the New Year. early 2008. Maritime Draft Kayak Strategy by John Marshall p. 4 Keep safe on the seas, keep your SAFETY Too Much Safety - ‘Opinion’ emergency communication equipment Thanks to committee member Julie by Colin Quilter p. 4 either on your PFD or very handy in Reynolds for attending the National Andrew McAuley. After the Inquest a bail-out bag, and please remember Pleasure Boat Forum, recently held in by Paul Caffyn p.13 if you start out as a paddling pod, to Auckland. Her report and the overview fi nish paddling in that pod. by John Marshall on a draft kayaking THE ‘BUGGER!’ FILE strategy are worth seriously consider- One Lemon Missing ANDREW MCAULEY ing. Colin Quilter, whose ‘opinion’ by Bill Anderson p. 6 Martin Fraser and myself attended piece is reprinted from the Auckland the Invercargill coroner’s inquest for Canoe Club newsletter, poses a future NZ TRIP REPORTS Andrew. I have tried to picture the most possible scenario if draconian rules The 2007 Pilgrimage likely scenario for what transpired on and regulations were imposed by by Diana Parr p. 8 that Friday night in February, and made kayakers. As long as New Zealand The Pilgrimage 2007 suggestions as to how emergency recreational paddlers and KASK by Max Grant p. 9 communication equipment should be continue to promote, publicize and South Island Circumnavigation carried by paddlers. push a safe kayaking message, we Freya Hoffmeister should keep the rules etc. at bay. It is by Martin Fraser p.11 RAKE25VSKC far better to liaise and educate than I have to hand it to the Victorian Sea to regulate. CONSERVATION Kayak Club. To mark 25 years since Ridding Rats & Restoring Birdsong the fi nish of the Round Australia THANKS in the Bay of Islands Kayak Expedition, they organized a Big mobs of thanks to all the photog- by Pauline Moretti p.15 superb day at Queenscliff, with a pad- raphers and writers who have contrib- dle in by Andy and myself, speeches, uted to the newsletter this year. HISTORY a plaque opening, and a procession Xmas elf, Linda Ingram RAKE25VSKC Queenscliff, led by a bagpiper to the Queenscliff Victoria, 1 December 2007 Maritime Museum where Lalaguli, the by Paul Caffyn p.16 kayak used for the Australian trip, will now go on permanent display. With my MY FIRST KAYAK TRIP report on page 16, and a few photos, I by Peter Van Kuyk p. 7 have tried to convey the setting for the day and how moving the anniversary HUMOUR p.20 was at times. CALENDAR P.20 FREYA HOFFMEISTER Photos at left: A wait for big bumper dumpers at Bir- by Mary Kirk-Anderson, of Freya dlings Flat by Freya, and her time with Hoffmeister launching from Birdlings Martin and Martin Fraser is described Flat, by the outlet of Lake Ellesmere, by Martin. The inside cover photos into rather violent bumper dumpers. show clearly the violence of those big Top: Martin Fraser in the red shirt & John Kirk-Anderson with red helmet and yellow PFD, after launching Thanks to all the contributors. Freya. Contributions of articles and photos are requested for the next newsletter. Bottom: JKA looks like he is saying, “Come on Freya, I know you are in Cocer Photo: Max Grant arriving at Ratimera Bay in the Marlborough there somewhere!” Although Freya Sounds for the annual pilgrimage, in his brand new, home built wooden and her black kayak are completely strip kayak. The apprehensive look on his face is the impending threat of engulfed in the bumper dumper, she his kayak being used as a log on the sacrifi cal fi re. managed to reach the safety of the open sea without breaking body or NEXT NEWSLETTER DEADLINE kayak. 20 January 2008

3 No. 131 October - November 2007

SAFETY OPINION

Is Too Much Safety Overview of Maritime New Zealand Bad for Kayakers? Presentation on Safety in Kayaking byColin Quilter ONZ Forum 14 September 2007 by John Marshall Auckland Canoe Club members re- cently assisted in trials on the water Colin Sonneveld and John Marshall of MNZ outlined the background to involving Coastguard and the Har- and process followed in developing the draft MNZ strategy on safety in bourmaster to fi nd ways of making kayaking, and summarised the key initiatives under the draft. kayaks more easily seen. I was invited to join the trials but declined because The strategy, it was noted: I am philosophically opposed to too • refl ected the MNZ view that the stringency of a legislated rules- much safety for kayakers. This might seem a curious position. How could based approach was not justifi ed any reasonable person be opposed • recognised and supported industry-led developments to: to safety? o strengthen provision of entry level qualifi cations o bring greater structure and coherence to outdoor My fear is that kayakers might in fu- qualifi cations ture have their freedom curtailed by regulations which are unnecessarily o extend safety management systems through third party restrictive, or might even be there audited quality brands for another purpose. Pressure for • covered both commercial and recreational kayaking. regulation might come, for example, from the owners of powerboats who The next steps were described: MNZ to refl ect on comments to date and would prefer kayaks to be restricted then circulate a formal draft for submissions and fi nalisation by the end of to the fringes of the harbour so that 2007. The various projects, as amended and prioritised in consequence of high-speed boats can travel with the consultation, would be rolled out over the next 18 months to 2 years. maximal speed and minimal lookout. Such regulations will no doubt be As to the draft MNZ guidelines for commercial kayaking operations, introduced on the grounds that, “they circulated with the draft strategy, it was noted that MNZ’s intended to are there for the safety of kayakers” fi nalise and publish these in the near future. but they actually serve more powerful vested interests. In discussion with forum participants, a number of concerns, observations and proposals were raised, including: Some years ago I wrote a fi ctional short story for the Auckland Canoe Club newsletter exploring what an • the proposal that the key representatives organisations should over-regulated future might hold. It engage with MNZ in a roundtable discussion, using, possibly, is reprinted here. Naturally, this story the WSNZ-convened non-powered craft forum, and including, is told from my personal view, and possibly, representatives of secondary schools, which, it was noted, might not refl ect the opinion of the had not been consulted in the fi rst round ACC committee.

• a provider of kayaking instruction concerned that the strategy did not address MNZ’s responsibility to regulate and enforce It was a summer afternoon in February, minimum industry agreed (and coronially-endorsed) standards for 2020. Since global warming had accel- commercial kayaking, noting, in particular, kayaking activities erated these days of late summer had associated with commercial rafting operations and raft guides become hotter than ever, and now the paddocks on the far side of the creek shimmered with heat. The brown water • a number of participants observed that MNZ should do more to fl owed slowly upstream; I guessed the support, promote and endorse the standards for kayaking developed tide must still be rising on the coast a by national bodies. few miles away. We had dragged our kayaks through the blackberry and - John Marshall is Manager for Environmental Research and Analysis, MNZ long grass to the riverbank; or rather I had dragged them, since my grand- - ONZ is Outdoors New Zealand daughter Laura and her friend Hine,

4 The Sea Canoeist Newsletter

both aged twelve, were too small for “She means you’re exceeding your instead. There’s a cool disk called the task. The three of us stowed the jurisdiction,” I added. “Deliverance” which has got lots of sandwiches, the drinks and the tad- canoes in it, plus a guy who gets shot pole net and were about to slide the He ignored me, and spoke to Laura. right through with an arrow, and there’s boats into the water when the crunch “Well young lady, if you look at what sodomy in it as well.” of tires on gravel made us look back you call the creek, you’ll notice that the “What on earth do you know about towards the roadside. A man of about current is actually fl owing up the river, sodomy?” my age, casually dressed, stood beside not down it. That means the current “We learned about it in sex educa- his bicycle. is affected by the tide, and according tion at school. Miss Jones told us it’s to Paragraph 3, Regulation 39 in the when....” “Hello. Going for a paddle, are you?” SMERSH Safety Manual, that means “Never mind!” His question didn’t seem to need a this creek, as you call it, is legally part reply, so I nodded and turned back of the sea!” The Safety Inspector was fi dgeting; to the boats. something else was on his mind. “Excuse me,” he said. “There are a An unpleasant note of triumph had “Look,” he said. “I don’t want to few things I need to ask you. Are you entered his voice. “And that also spoil your fun. But even if I allowed the leader of this party?” means that your kayaks must meet you on the water, there’s nowhere to I looked at Laura and Hine. “Am I certain minimum safety standards. go nowadays. This bank as far as the the leader?” For example, they must each have sea is Maori Land, so you can’t land “Yes,” said Laura. “You know where two bulkheads, pressure-tested to 35 on it. The other bank is part of Russell the tadpoles are.” kilograms per square centimetre. And Coutt’s estate, the guy who made a “Well then. I need to make sure that you a maximum cockpit volume of 160 fortune winning the America’s Cup have a Level 3 Trip Leader’s Certifi cate litres. Then there’s the Personal Safety twenty years ago. So you can’t land from the New Zealand Sea Kayaking Equipment that each of you needs to there either.” Safety Authority, and that your boats carry.” He was reading from the Safety comply with the Inshore and Protected Manual. “Category 5 Buoyancy Aid, The fl at sense of stalemate hung in Waters Minimum Equipment Standard whistle, paddle fl oat, two red hand the air. Suddenly I felt tired and hot. for sea kayaks.” fl ares, one orange smoke fl are, Ap- Perhaps a canoeing videodisk was proved First Aid Kit.” better than the real thing after all. I could feel a sense of rising irritation. Then Hine spoke. She’d been silent “And who the hell are you?” He turned to me. “And for you, a until now, but her brown eyes had He smiled benignly. “I’m an Honorary Level 3 Trip Leader’s Certifi cate re- missed nothing. Sea Kayaking Safety Inspector,” he quires you to be able to eskimo roll, said. “There are hundreds of us, up demonstrate two different types of “Kia ora, Inspector,” she said quietly. and down the country. It’s our job to assisted rescues, and be able to swim “This is my land, and you are standing make sure you enjoy your sport safely. 100 metres wearing a buoyancy aid on it. I hope you don’t plan to stay long. Here’s my Identity Card.” The card and sprayskirt, without losing your These boats look like kayaks, but they he handed me was impressive; dark paddle.” are not. They are waka. Paddlers of blue with a logo in gold lettering on “Mister,” said Laura, “you’ve lost the waka are exempt from wearing buoy- the front: SMERSH (Standards for plot. This creek isn’t anywhere deeper ancy aids because they are culturally Maritime Enjoyment, Recreation, than my tummy. And in the middle of inappropriate. Whatever “bulkheads” Sports and Hobbies). Lost for words, it, you could touch both banks with and “maximum cockpit volumes” are, I passed it to Laura. your paddle. How can grand-dad es- waka don’t have them. Nobody can “Mister, these aren’t sea kayaks,” kimo roll if his head’s in the mud on eskimo-roll in a waka, and we don’t she said. “And this isn’t the sea. It’s the bottom?” She turned to me. swim in sprayskirts. Have a nice day a creek. With tadpoles. You’re not the “Come on, grand-dad. Let’s go home Inspector, and I hope you enjoy your boss here.” and get a videodisk about kayaking bike ride.”

So we ended up on the river after all. It may have been a bad day for the safety regulations, but it was a great day for tangata whenua!

Colin Quilter is a greying ex-sailor who lives in Auckland. He paddles a home-built 22 year-old plywood Sea Bear which has carried him along the North Island east coast from Cape Reinga to Wellington, and along the South Island coast from Cape Farewell to Kaikoura. When the day comes that he doesn’t enjoy paddling he’ll quit; but it hasn’t happened yet.

5 No. 131 October - November 2007

We felt reasonably comfortable about to see what was happening. The wind THE ‘BUGGER!’ the trip – the wind was behind us and kept on hammering away. we weren’t terribly exposed. The day FILE wasn’t cold and the southerly wasn’t With the help of Max and Douglas, really bitter. The swell wasn’t large Grant got up and started pumping his One Lemon Missing and the chop had whitecaps but was boat out. Mike got the paddle but had A paddle from Makara to manageable. trouble controlling two paddles in the conditions. Mike attempted to throw Titahi Bay On the water the wind was okay over- the paddle to Max and Grant but it all. There were some large gusts. The didn’t make it and got blown further by Bill Anderson Met Service tells us that gusts are about away. Grant got out his split paddle half as strong again as the mean speed, and started putting it together. I work in the same building as Peter so we should have been expecting Rawlins. Peter is a member of the gusts of up to 30 knots. We certainly He had his paddle together and was Manawatu Tramping and Skiing Club seemed to be fl ying northwards. nearly ready to paddle again when and is also heavily involved in Search another blast of wind came. He at- and Rescue. He coordinates many The shore was mainly rocky with the tempted a support stroke but he hadn’t of the local SAR call outs and has occasional steep bouldery beach and had time to adjust the feather of the a pretty good understanding of why the hillside rose sharply immediately paddle properly and his support stroke things go wrong in the outdoors. In a from the beach. I noticed that we didn’t work. The rocky shoreline was chat I had with him recently he talked weren’t doing as much talking as looming, with the combined swell about how no accident is really just normal. There was an air of concentra- causing a reasonable break onto some one thing going wrong. As he put it, tion about everyone, and there were large rocks. With Grant in the water a “It’s a bit like those pokey machines certainly times when that concentra- second time, and the wind continuing – you need to get a whole row of tion was needed. to drive onshore any boat not being lemons for something really bad to paddled, it was time for Max to leave go wrong.” On our recent trip from About a third of the way up we passed Grant and get clear. Makara to Titahi Bay we got through a headland in quite strong gusty condi- a situation where, lucky for us, there tions and immediately entered a piece By this time Jan and I were on our was one lemon missing. of water that was very confused. The way back. We saw Grant in the water wind was blowing off-shore at this and noticed a steep beach just south of Mana Recreational Forecast: Today, 2 stage as the shore fell away to our where he was heading into the rocks. Sept: Northwest 25 knots gusting 35 right. After some time we all started Jan shouted that he would head into knots, changing southwest 20 knots heading in-shore, pushing into the the beach – on which there was a late morning then easing to 10 knots wind somewhat, seeking the shelter of reasonable dumping surf. He landed, in the afternoon … Rough sea easing the coastal hills. We got to within 100 surfi ng sideways up the boulders. to moderate late morning and to slight metres or so of the shore and contin- The remaining fi ve of us stood off in the afternoon … Swell: Northwest ued northward, approaching the next the shore. 1 metre dying out today. Southwest headland, while the wind continued half a metre for a time today. its off-shore push. Grant, still in the water, was threading his way through the rocks, gathering a Yes, it was going to be windy. On the Within about 500 metres or so of the number of bruises and gouges in the way down it didn’t seem like it would headland the wind swung around and process, and had his boat still in one be. Grant, Jan, Max and I headed off quite violent gusts suddenly started piece (it was plastic after all). Max at 8.15 and with four big sea kayaks hammering us toward the shore. I was headed off around the headland to see on top I was expecting to get pushed out front with Jan, with the others not if there was another landing place on around a bit by the wind. It didn’t too far behind. We were inside the the other side – like me, he had a glass happen. We couldn’t help but notice curve of the headland and needed to boat. I watched him head off leaning that there was no wind whatsoever and push out to get around the rocks while sideways at about 30 degrees into the I began to wonder if I had been a bit the wind kept pushing us on-shore. Jan wind. Mike and I stayed with Will who harsh in asking two others not to come and I had rafted up for a brief moment admitted to being at the edge of his on the basis of the forecast. We met when suddenly a huge gust of wind ability and Douglas who was feeling Mike, Douglas (both from Wellington) nearly tore the paddle from my grasp a little tired. and Will (from Northland) at Mana, – I lost the grip of my right hand and dropped a vehicle off at Titahi Bay just hung on with my left. It was the To cut to the chase … Jan helped Grant and headed down to Makara. same gust that blew Grant over. and together they got the boat back to the beach where Jan had landed and At Makara the wind was coming down I didn’t see what happened next but … then both successfully launched and the valley in big gusts – the southerly it seems … Grant went over and lost made it out to join us. The six of us had kicked in, in the time it had taken his paddle. I heard a shout of, “Paddle” then headed around the headland in a to get from Mana to Makara. and Jan and I started to turn around wind that seemed to have moderated

6 The Sea Canoeist Newsletter

just a little. We saw Max making his Porirua Harbour and then Pauatahanui way on foot back around the headland inlet, passing a couple of dragon boats and signalled for him to join us. The MY FIRST TIME with outriggers. A friendly chap on rest of the trip was relatively unevent- the launching ramp took my photo ful. It was a strong wind to be sure, but by Peter Van Kuyk for me. more moderate and defi nitely not as My fi rst experience in a kayak was variable in direction. We were all still at Graeme Dingle’s Outdoor Pursuits Finally I stepped ashore at the memo- concentrating though as the expected Centre in the central North Island, on rial to the US Marines base (1942) off moderation in wind seemed to be tak- a school trip around 1973. For the past Grays Rd, and phoned home from a ing a bit longer to come through than 2 years in October, I have competed nearby house to advise of my changed we had anticipated. in a kayak leg of the Multi-sports race route. Returning the same way I’d at Days Bay in Wellington Harbour, come was a pleasure, as the wind was Back at Titahi Bay we wondered about using a friend’s kayak for training and dropping and the sun was out - all the what had happened. What were our a hired Penguin for the race. I really houses along the harbour looked great. lemons? Here are my thoughts. Should enjoyed being on the water and seeing I stopped at a small sandbank near the we have gone? I still feel comfortable the scenery from a different angle, as Mana marina for some scroggin, and with the decision to take to the water well as balancing: paddling skills / then carried on to Titahi Bay, where but we learnt some things. sea conditions / what to take. After I noticed an echo of the waves was a 3-day family canoe trip down the bouncing back from the rocky coast, First and biggest lesson – we needed Wanganui River early this year, my creating a turbulent current around paddle leashes. You certainly don’t wife encouraged me to buy two sea the kayak. With weary arms I pad- want one on whitewater but on the kayaks, as we have two teenagers, and dled into Titahi Bay beach, happy to sea, a paddle leash is necessary. Only everyone could make use of them, and have survived a trip to the edge of my one of our party of seven was using a there are so many suitable paddling comfort zone, and not caused anyone paddle leash (it wasn’t me). locations around Wellington. We any trouble. After loading the kayak bought a Penguin and a lightweight onto the roofrack, I walked up Mt Second, we should have moved further Barracuda. Cooper (near the 2YA radio mast) to off shore immediately the wind swung the lookout, to see what the waves around to be pushing us onshore. After a few trips to Petone beach and looked like from there. Well, just like Somes Island, I heard of a Yakkity 20 years ago, it looked as fl at as! So it Third, always take Jan along in a Yak club trip on 26 May to Mana is very hard to tell how big the swell plastic boat – well, be prepared for Island, off the coast of Titahi Bay. is, until you take a boat out onto it. A a rough landing regardless of the Unfortunately on the day, no one kayak went slowly past, way below construction of your boat. I’m not too turned up due to strong winds, and I me, and it looked very small and sure what would have happened had I didn’t have a cellphone with me so I insignifi cant. had to land my carbon/Kevlar on the was not contactable. I decided to go beach where Jan did. I did have some out anyway, but not to Mana Island. The next day was slightly more windy, repair tape with me, but … I used to live in Titahi Bay 20 years so the Yakkity Yak club decided on ago, so knew the area very well, and an easy trip from the Porirua Rowing Fourth, in retrospect, I don’t like the headed around the peninsula to Pare- Club to the Pauatahanui inlet, avoiding thought of what might have happened mata and the Pauatahanui inlet. There the open sea. This was an opportunity to Jan’s head had he overturned while was quite a large northwesterly swell for me to meet 3 experienced kayakers, surfi ng in across the boulders. Perhaps banging up onto the rocks for the fi rst and to see a Garmin GPS receiver and it would be useful to take at least one half hour, which had me a bit worried, some fl ash jackets and booties. I am crash hat on these day trips along the but I fi gured that the worst that could not a member of the club, but they coast. I think the missing lemon was happen if I tipped out was I’d have to gave me a very warm welcome and the fact that the swell was only one swim to the shore and walk back to answered all my questions. metre – any larger would have made my car. After 30 minutes I had passed Peter Van Kuyk it very uncomfortable for Grant and the most exposed section and entered landing might not have been advis- able. A good trip though. Special thanks to Jan.

Bill Anderson

Peter at the Paremata bridge

7 No. 131 October - November 2007

NEW ZEALAND KASK REPORTS TRIP REPORTS National Pleasure Boat Forum Report The Pilgrimage 2007 by Julie Reynolds by Diana Parr Neither Mecca nor Jerusalem. This year’s pilgrimage on the holy dates On Tuesday 4 of December I attended fi nds it hinders him in surf. Given we of 24 and 25 November 2007 was to the Maritime New Zealand National had just been discussing the issues the sacred site of Ratimera Bay, in the Pleasure Boat Safety Forum, as the around safety, and in particular rescues Ruakaka Bay Scenic Reserve in the representative for KASK. Although and drownings, and how we could Marlborough Sounds. I was unable to attend the full day, encourage retailers of all non powered it was very interesting to hear about pleasure boats to include PFD’s in the The 15 pilgrims travelled in small the excellent work being done by purchase and safety reading material, groups; some by car (usually a 4wd the different interested bodies. There I felt his comments were detrimental station wagon or van) or inter-island were attendees from the following and ignorant. ferry and then the fi nal leg by sea- sectors, Maritime NZ, Water Safety kayak. While some pilgrims travelled NZ, Underwater NZ, ACC, Search However apart from that one individual by night following the stars, the more & Rescue, Wellington Regional there appeared to be a very real sensible ones waited for daylight. Council, Auckland Regional Council, enthusiasm to help initiate a code Queenstown Lakes Council, NZ of practice and to back all safety The purpose of the pilgrimage Police, Auckland Police Maritime focussed activities. Some of the seems unclear but concentrated on Unit, Coastguard, Yachting NZ and points made pertaining to the Code the Saturday evening ceremony Ministry of Transport. Each group is of Practice development were; who of ‘dancing with the stars’ and actioning some excellent initiatives would endorse this, how to obtain more consumption of sacred liquids. There around safety and education. accountability, how to create active were also some unusual sacraments of networking within the sport, training a fl ag and a boogie-box. The dancing The key points of interest for me systems, minimum qualifications costumes were mainly acquired from were the discussions around kayak for instructors, basic competencies, Tradme, an opshop or the $2 shop. safety on our waters. Maritime NZ safety plans and guidelines and fi nally The men were mostly in suits, some is working with a group of interested how would this Code of Practice be two and some three piece, some suits parties on developing a Code of enforced. even had tails. Above the waist there Practice for all commercial kayak were two styles, those with bow ties operators. This appears to be getting All in all it was very good to know and those exposing their chest hair. good support and buy in from the what’s going on behind the scenes They must have missed the waxing different participants. The biggest and also important I think to pass on session but maybe they knew that it issue appearing to be how to have best how pivotal to our enjoyment of this didn’t help Steve Gurney in the telly practices for water safety complied to, sport safety and education is. version of dancing with stars. The by the likes of backpackers and motels women were all beautiful, and poised; who provide kayaking equipment to The last thing we want to see is dressed in the fi nest jewellery, frocks, guests without proper instruction or restrictive legislation when it comes feathers and fi ne shoes. Fortunately checks in place. to water sports so it’s in every ones the night was warm as there was more best interests to be involved and active fl esh exposed than usually worn by Another key issue that was discussed when it comes to safety and education. those more comfortable in polypro, at length was the use of sit on tops Setting good examples and passing polar-fl eece and bootees. and the lack of appropriate skills and on sound knowledge is all a part of safety awareness by this group. There this. If we are seen to be responsible The attire judging had a certain gender is another Forum to be held in April for our sport we will be left alone to bias; Cathye Haddock was the judge for interested parties to further discuss thoroughly enjoy it. for the men’s category and Conrad the code of practice and in particular Edwards for the women’s. While they how to encourage and educate for If anyone would like to pass on may be excellent kayakers, Cathye safety with sit on tops. thoughts or comments pertaining and Conrad’s knowledge of dancing to the implementation of a Code of couture is limited. You may have I was shocked and disappointed when Practice with would I’m sure be most guessed I didn’t win. With my pink one of the attendees at this meeting appreciated. sequin number and feather boa, I was contradicted all that was being the spitting image of Candy Lane. discussed, by claiming that he never Webmaster - mail to: Being the mathematical type Conrad wears a PFD on his sit on top as he [email protected]. wrote a lot of numbers in his little

8 The Sea Canoeist Newsletter

From left, Diana Parr, AJ, Melanie Grant, Paul Caffyn & Alison Turner

black book. Bribery was permitted - persuaded the bach owner to take us by Max Grant alcohol was mentioned/ encouraged. bush-bashing on a guided tour of the Mike, Dave, Diane, Melz & I set out As Alison won the women’s category, I remote overgrown hole. Maybe it will from Picton in brilliant sunshine after think some bedroom favours may have become a new pilgrimage site. a good ferry trip across Cook Strait. been granted. Max and Sandy co-won As we headed out across Queen the men’s category. It may have been The annual KASK pilgrimage isn’t Charlotte Sound the kayaking became Max’s glasses and Sandy’s hat or mentioned on Wikipedia but a link more challenging as we were hit by a maybe some bribery or other form of took me to a site which, with a bit strong NW wind. corruption. Conrad and Cathye are a of a stretch, could apply to sea- shady pair. Bring back the real dancing kayaking and the aims and objectives After battling into the wind for with the stars judges; Brendon, Carol- of KASK. three hours we fi nally arrived at the Ann, Alison and Craig. If there had Ratimera Bay DoC campsite where we actually been a category for dancing, ‘Going on pilgrimage, that is to say, were met by 11 other enthusiastic sea Susan Cade would have won. leaving home to create a path that kayakers. We were there to celebrate leads to a chosen (or given) goal, real the annual Sea Kayakers’ Pilgrimage Sunday started with a bit of a dawn or imagined, has always been and will and formal dinner party. The dress chorus with the addition of Polynesian always be a dangerous business. The theme was ‘Dancing with the Stars’, drum music from the boogie-box. naïve pilgrim who sets off unprepared, and by 7pm we were dressed and Thanks AJ. Breakfast was impressive that is to say, without a clear goal and performing in front of the judges, - coffee, bacon and eggs that other the well-designed and practiced skills Cathye Haddock and Conrad Edwards people made smelt much better than needed to achieve it, will surely fail from Wellington. my muesli and fruit. All too soon, the and come to grief. The true pilgrim formal fl ag lowering ceremony was who achieves her goal enters a truly After great displays by the contestants over. We kayaked towards Picton. wonderful and joyful reality.’ http:// and many drinks/dances later, winners Someone decided to add a little side www.vwsp.eu/ were announced; 1st Women:Alison, trip to fi nd some historic gold mine. equal 1st Men:Andy & Max. Yeh right. But it was true. The fi rst It was a weekend to remember. mine entrance was at sea level into Thanks for a lovely trip. The following morning we were a small cave. The other entrance was Diana Parr awoken to the dawn chorus of AJ’s supposedly inland near to a bach. The Pilgrimage 2007 outrageous pounding drums from the Cook Islands. This was not such Paul Caffyn, in full-charm mode, a great part of the weekend, but the

9 No. 131 October - November 2007

The gorgeous couple who should have been winners of the Danc- ing with the Stars evening at Ratimera Bay, but scored poorly because of the photos of the judges which appeared in the previ- ous newsletter. Photo: Max Grant

terrible noise had the required effect and everyone was up, breakfasted and ready for the formal fl ag downing before setting off back to Picton.

On the way back we stopped in at David’s home where he showed us through an old gold mine which was very interesting. Melanie made friends with a couple of Little Blue Penguins and then it was back the ferry terminal for our trip back home to Ashhurst.

It was a most enjoyable weekend and so good to catch up with old friends and share a good fun evening with them. Our thanks go to AJ and Paul for organizing such a great gathering. Above left: Max Gramt with eye goggling glasses. Above right: Martin Fra- Max Grant ser who should have won best dressed male dancer for sheer growth of chest hair. Below: AJ, Fiona Fraser & Bevan Walker

10 The Sea Canoeist Newsletter SOUTH ISLAND CIRCUMNAVIGATION Freya Hoffmeister by Martin Fraser

We got a phone call at 1430hrs on to shore and bounced out of her kayak electronic admin, then she attended to Saturday 3 November 2007 looking like she was stopping for a her gear. The kayak needed a bit of a quick break before dealing to another patch up due to some leaking into the “Freya is going to be landing at Te 70km. She could have had the decency cockpit. The holes were pretty easy Oka Bay in two to three hours, can to look at least a little bit tired and to fi nd and she had repair equipment you pick her up?” sore. We all lugged her pile of gear to with her, so it was easily sorted. the car and then her kayak which was A fl urry of activity ensued. We threw also no lightweight. The picnic meal We got a tour through her gear, which together what we thought would be was well received, and despatched was really amazing. Pretty much appetising for a paddler who had been with gusto. Once all packed up we everything she had was provided by out for a week, lots of fresh salad and headed for home, just over an hour’s sponsors including the kayak. Even fruit with some bread rolls and meat drive away. after such a short time you could see then we departed for the bay. We that the sand and salt would take a toll. wondered what we would encounter, Freya had decided to take Sunday Equipment that survives a trip like this what would Freya be like? We tried to off from paddling and then continue is defi nitely tough. Her waterproof imagine a female version of Paul, but on Monday. I think that is a decision camera shutter was making a sound it was hard to erase the moustache. she will rue right to the end of her which sounded suspiciously like it had trip. Sunday turned out to be a picture sand or salt in the mechanism. A soak We didn’t have to wait long to fi nd perfect day for paddling, and Monday in fresh water for about 10 minutes out, she got to the bay only about 10 and Tuesday were rubbish. She spent seemed to sort it out though. minutes after we did. She pulled in most of Sunday catching up with her

Freya Hoffmeister at the Motunau River mouth, about to head off on a beeline for Okains Bay on the north side of Banks Peninsula - 2 November 2007. Photo: John Kirk-Anderson

11 No. 131 October - November 2007

I commented on how heavy her paddling around into neighbouring life jacket was. She had a deadly Tumbledown bay. looking pocket knife, a marine radio, an EPIRB, fl ares and lots of Freya displays a healthy respect for miscellaneous other stuff, no wonder the mission she has set herself. She is it weighed so much. This collection very focussed on her goal, but realistic would rival John de Garnham’s life about her limitations as well. It was jacket. great to meet her and we enjoyed her stay with us. We went through her other bags, all colour coordinated and labelled. She She is proud of her huge biceps, I hate had a staggering array of re-charge to think how big they will be by the devices to keep her in touch with the end of the trip. world, three fresh water containers Martin Fraser plus another one which sits in her cockpit. She also had a copy of Paul’s book which she was studying each night to glean any tips she could as she makes her way around the coast.

Freya paddles wearing a dry suit, which she really rated. She said she gets cold feet though. Her trick to deal with that is to pour hot water Above: Freya, arriving at Cornish down the inside of her neoprene over Head, north of Dunedin -rugged up boots. We were curious as to how for a cold south-westerly day. she dealt with getting her kayak up unfriendly landing spots considering the weight of the kayak. She has to Left: Freya’s three piece kayak unload it to move it on land, and if the landing spot is rocky then she may Below: Freya launching even have to break the kayak down from Smaills Beach, near into its three parts and carry it up Dunedin. separately. Imagine that after a hard Photo: Mark Robertson day’s paddle.

We told her that she couldn’t be going up the West Coast without first sampling some of their fine delicacy. We managed to procure some whitebait. She was pretty hesitant about it, but Martin insisted and I pointed out that it could be worse – in some countries she would be getting proffered sheep’s eyes. When she agreed to try one patty, she didn’t realise that it was going to be the same size as her dinner plate. I am not sure if she was being polite or just putting on a brave face, but she fi nished her patty.

Monday’s forecast wasn’t very good, so Freya stayed and got her visitors visa extended while she had the opportunity. We dropped her off before work on Tuesday. Te Oka Bay didn’t look very inviting at all, and she ended up spending a pretty long day on the beach watching to see if the sea would abate. She ended up

12 The Sea Canoeist Newsletter

Afterwards Martin and I were pleased then desperate. He was in the water, Andrew McAuley to have made the effort to attend, as unable to right the kayak. After the Inquest we able to listen to most of the briefs of evidence presented by the Police, Andrew then had no choice but to call by Paul Caffyn Rescue Coordination Centre New for a rescue, especially with sunset Zealand (RCCNZ), Vicki McAuley about an hour away. The choice was and Paul Hewitson. either, a call on the VHF radio or pull Back in early February, three Kiwi the pin on the EPIRB. If Andrew was paddlers headed down to Milford Up ‘till then, details of Andrew’s in the water along side the capsized Sound to form a waterborne welcom- paddle and fateful evening had been kayak, I can picture his diffi culty of ing committee for Andrew McAuley obtained from media coverage, views blindly feeling around initially for when he fi nished the fi rst kayak cross- on several websites, emails and ru- the EPIRB, which was later found ing of the Tasman Sea - Martin and mour. One malicious rumour from in a pocket in a cockpit side pocket Fiona Fraser from Christchurch and up north claimed Andrew had radioed when the kayak was recovered. Vicki Paul Caffyn from the West Coast. of being menaced by sea monsters. I McAuley said the cockpit ‘pockets’ felt it was essential for an un-emotive, were mesh, and would have been dif- Unaware of Andrew’s VHF radio call rational explanation of what happened fi cult to access by feel in the capsized for a rescue made at 7.13pm NZDT to Andrew to be written. kayak. on Friday 9 February, I was stunned by the news when a television news Paul Hewitson, the kayak builder, The VHF radio is assumed to have crew shoved a camera in my face as gave a very plausible explanation of been in the aft compartment, as the the reporter broke the news early next what may have transpired after 7pm aft hatch was off but still tethered to morning. Although Martin and Fiona on 9 February. One of the stainless the recovered kayak. After failing to had yet to meet Andrew, they were steel rods, which allowed Casper (the access the EPIRB, it appears Andrew inspired by his endeavours. Andrew fi breglass bubble) to pivot forward, removed the rear compartment hatch, and I some years ago were the ‘liv- from the aft deck, to cover the cockpit located the radio and began transmit- ing legends’ speakers for an evening coaming, was damaged a few days ting his rescue call at 7.13pm (NZDT). south of Sydney, which was organized earlier. When paddling, the bubble This rear hatch cover was not on deck, by the New South Wales Sea Kayak lay on the aft deck, but for sleeping, but on the bulkhead immediately aft Club. With my two aborted attempted Andrew would slide into the cockpit, of the cockpit. With priority for the crossings of the Tasman in a double reach back with his arms and pull radio call, and the hatch cover not kayak, I felt I needed to be at Milford it over and clip the bubble onto the replaced, the rear compartment would to meet Andrew. cockpit coaming. The bubble acted as have slowly fl ooded, leaving only the an anti-capsize device while Andrew bow compartment to keep the kayak Keeping in touch with Martin and attempted to sleep. afl oat. It would have been so diffi cult Fiona subsequently, we decided to for Andrew to keep in contact with wing our way to Sydney for a fund As Andrew’s daily reporting time only the bow above water level. raising dinner in June, which was to was 7.30pm (NZDT) Paul thought help Vicki McAuley and son Finlay. it likely Andrew was setting up for From 7.13pm, when the RCCNZ re- It was a surreal evening for the three night running, and making ready to ceived the rescue message, the train Kiwis but very worthwhile as $35,000 send his GPS position to his support of subsequent events was included in was raised (see Martin’s report pp 6-7 team via the satellite phone when he a detailed 27 page brief of evidence to in newsletter No. 129). capsized on the evening of 9 Febru- the inquest, from John Seward, current ary 2007. Vicki McAuley thought Operations Manager for RCCNZ. On 6 December, when I noticed a a rogue wave capsized Andrew, but brief newspaper note re an inquest to with south-west winds of 20-25 knots The following notes are my personal be held for Andrew at Invercargill on creating a chop on top of the ground views related to the subsequent search, 10 December, I emailed Martin and swell, any breaking wave could have based on listening to the inquest state- Fiona, as I felt we needed to attend the rolled the kayak over. ments, along with recommendations inquest, in some ways for some sort that I presented in an oral submission of closure. Martin was able to attend Andrew had been capsized up to six to the Invercargill coroner. and arranged fl ights, while I made the times during the preceding 30 days, long drive south. but had always successfully recovered. Search Initiation Time As Paul Hewitson noted, if the bub- Both Vicki and Paul stated that tasking In the small Invercargill coroner’s ble was only held on by one of the of a search for Andrew was delayed court, Martin and I were the only stainless steep rods, it would have by the RCCNZ. I believe they are paddlers attending, along with Police, acted as a drogue or sea anchor when correct but there are mitigating fac- media, three Maritime NZ offi cials, the Andrew attempted to right the kayak tors. Firstly it was believed the VHF kayak builder Paul Hewitson, Vicki on the evening of 9 February. Then rescue call was from the D’Urville McAuley, Andrew’s mum and dad, his if Andrew was unable to disconnect Maritime Radio. Two hours elapsed brother Mike and sister Juliette. the other bubble arm, his plight was before confi rmation that the call was

13 No. 131 October - November 2007 in fact from Fiordland Maritime Radio. the way to search a parallel track to recovered video footage taken by Andrew’s text message, along with Andrew’s estimated track based on his Andrew, I would like to suggest the his updated GPS position, from the previous night’s GPS position and a following: Thursday evening was from a con- dead reckoning position for the time fi dent paddler who anticipated being of the VHF call. The Southern Lakes 1. Andrew’s PFD was an infl atable off St Anne Point at precisely 9am on helicopter was on its way from Te Anau model. If you recall John Kirk-Ander- Sunday morning. His position on the to join the search at 11.29pm, but there son’s opinion of ‘blow ups’ in the last night of 8 February was 67 nautical were problems due to sea haze. Two newsletter, unless a PFD is infl ated it miles WSW of Milford Sound. fi shing boats continued to search for will offer no support at all. Andrew through the night and were Most of the VHF rescue call on chan- stood down at 11am next day. 2. In an infl ated PFD, Andrew would nel 16 at 7.13pm on 9 February was have increased his chances of being inaudible, but the words ‘my kayak Conditions for Friday 9 December, found, even if he had succumbed to is sinking’ and ‘I need a rescue’ were from the skipper of one of the search- the cold clear. The Maritime Operations Centre ing fi shing boats, were a southerly had (MOC) operator tried to obtain a posi- blown up in the afternoon, and it was 3. With a combination of survival suit tion, with success. 20 knots at the coast and would have and infl ated PFD, his survival time been up to 25 knots out where Andrew in the water would have increased A light aircraft crash off the west coast was. The current drift would have been further of the North Island with a continuous 0.05 – 0.75 knots to the north, with a EPIRB signal added to an additional short sharp chop. 4. Separated from the capsized kayak, delay in initially tasking a search for without an infl ated PFD, not wearing the VHF kayak call. The RCCNZ An Orion located Andrew’s kayak at an immersion suit, with legs almost wad advised, by the Australian 7.25pm on 10 February, 42.5nm on atrophied after 30 days in the cockpit, Rescue Coordination Centre (Aus- a bearing of 270˚true from St Anne cold water, wind chill from the 20-25 SAR), on 18 January, that Andrew Point, at the southern entrance to knot southerly wind, and breaking was 193nm off Tasmania but he had Milford Sound. Floating upside down, chop, I believe 30 to 60 minutes would lost his GPS tracking device and one with the stern submerged and no be pushing the limit for Andrew’s of his satphones. AusSAR requested sign of Andrew or the bubble, it was survival. Andrew turn back or offered to drop recovered by a cruise ship and taken a replacement satphone or aviation to Deep Cove in Doubtful Sound. An Recommendations band radio, but with a requirement EPIRB was located inside the cockpit. I suggested to the coroner that, for both for both a helicopter and backup fi x The kayak was structurally sound kayak expeditions to remote regions wing, the cost to Andrew would have with the only observed damage a bent such as Fiordland and open water been very substantial. Given prevail- stainless steel rod that had held Casper crossings, emergency communica- ing westerly, winds ocean current (the bubble). tion equipment such as an EPIRB, and swell, it would also have been a VHF radio, satphone, mobile phone very long battle for Andrew back to The rear compartment was fl ooded. and fl ares should be carried either on Tasmania. The hatch cover was not in place but a paddler’s PFD or carried in a ‘bail- still attached with a retaining cord. out’ bag which can be secured around There were two further complications; Neither immersion suit nor PFD was a paddler’s waist or wrist during in fi rstly an anonymous phone call to found. deteriorating conditions. RCCNZ at around 1320hrs on 8 Febru- ary, with a person with an Australian The search for Andrew was fi nally Summer of 2007/08 accent saying he was researching ar- suspended at 8pm on 12 February. With three attempts by overseas wom- rangements for emergency treatment en paddlers to paddle around the South of a person canoeing from Australia At the inquest, other issues raised were Island this summer, in communication to New Zealand. Andrew’s support differences in the dead reckoning posi- with RCCNZ we have established a team said they had no knowledge tions for Andrew after his radio call, as protocol for VHF radio call signs, of the call and the clarity of the call calculated by Paul Hewitson and John and for EPIRB contact information indicated it was not made at sea. Sec- Seward of RCCNZ, and Vicki stating and details of the proposed trips to ondly, lack of knowledge of Andrew’s she may have been able to identify the be supplied to the RCCNZ. VHF radio call sign, if in fact he had voice had the full version of the tape a VHF radio in his kayak, and dif- been played to her on the Friday night. Freya Hoffmeister, who is well on fi culty in identifying Andrew’s voice Both Paul and Vicki were uncertain if her way to be the fi rst woman to pad- by Andrew’s support team caused I Andrew had taken his immersion suit dle around the South Island, has her believe a lack or urgency is tasking with him on the second attempt. 406EPIRB, VHF radio, emergency an urgent search. light and fl ares all attached to her PFD Although I have neither seen the or lifejacket. Despite the complications, by 10.39pm photos of the kayak and equipment (NZDT) three fi shing boats were on recovered, nor been able to view the

14 The Sea Canoeist Newsletter Ridding Rats and Restoring Birdsong to the Bay of Islands

from Pauline Moretti Project Island Song also follow. Some stoats will die the mainland as seen at Bream Head, A plan to restore wildlife in the eastern by eating poisoned rats but ground with kaka and kakariki arriving from Bay of Islands is set to involve one trapping and use of trained dogs will the Hen and Chickens. of the most ambitious pest control be necessary to make sure all stoats programmes ever attempted in New have been removed. Project Island Song is a shared vision Zealand. with DoC working in partnership with All the islands in the chain from the Guardians of the Bay of Islands The Department of Conservation is Motuarohia (Roberton) eastwards, (community conservation group) and planning to eradicate rodents and including Moturua, Motukiekie, Ngati Kuta and Patukeha (tangata stoats from the islands in the eastern Okahu, Waewaetoria, Urupukapuka, whenua) with support from island Bay of Islands (Ipipiri) as part of a Poroporo and all their associated islets landowners. bigger vision to restore the area to will be treated (See map below). As a healthy ecosystem, allowing for Norway rats and stoats can swim it’s For the operation to be successful, the reintroduction of native fl ora and important to treat all these islands as prevention of reinvasion or introduction fauna. well as adjacent mainland properties. of other unwanted pests is critical. This A mainland pest control area is be- is the most challenging part given the The fi rst step is to remove the rats ing set up, funded by the Northland high public useage of the islands. It and stoats from the islands. They eat Regional Council and coordinated requires everyone to see its value and everything from seeds, plants, birds’ by the Guardians of the Bay of Is- take precautions. eggs, chicks and insects to lizards. lands, to prevent reinvasion from the Rats can be prolifi c, especially on mainland. Urupukapuka Island, as campers well know! Ship rats and Norway rats are Two years after the eradication it’s across the whole island group. Kiore hoped to reintroduce birds such are present on Moturua. Mice are not as bellbirds, kakariki, kaka and known to be present. Stoats are also saddleback. Visitors will have a similar on the islands. experience to that of visiting Tiritiri Matangi Island. The islands will be The plan is to drop brodifacoum, singing once again. It’s also likely that a commercial rat poison, from over time birdlife will spill over to helicopters using GPS. An aerial drop Above: Norwegian is required to ensure every rodent rat, Okahu. 2005 is exposed eg. ship rats can live on Photo: Stephen cliffs of up to 70 degrees. This is Cope too steep to access for trapping. The Department is confi dent benefi ts far Left: Ship rat eat- outweigh the risks. ing a fantail chick

The best time to kill rodents is when they are at their hungriest, during winter months when populations are at low levels. Weather permitting, the operation is planned to take place Pauline Moretti is a DoC community between June and September 2008. relations ranger, based at Kerikeri A follow up poison drop will take place 7 – 10 days later to eliminate any survivors. Stoat eradication will Below: Bellbird on the left & Tui

15 No. 131 October - November 2007

You can help keep the It is indeed fortunate that I am a co- Eastern Bay of Islands signer for the Kiwi Association of Pest-free & Bird-rich HISTORY Sea Kayakers’ cheque account and the begging email was forwarded to Just before leaving the mainland: RAKE-25-VSKC me as a KASK committee member. I • Pack all food into sealed containers. Queenscliff, Victoria took offence and umbrage, particularly Do not transport it in open boxes or after one of the out of state VSKC supermarket bags. 1 December 2007 members informed me that the erstwhile Victorian committee had • Clean and check all gear as close to by Paul Caffyn decided that the club would pay for departure time as possible to reduce a plaque and piss up, out of club the risk of rodent reinvasion. If unsure, The Planning funds! Dark days followed. The club unpack, re-inspect, re-clean if needed, I lay the blame squarely on the president accused the out of state club and then re-pack. shoulders of David Golightly and member of buggering a crocodile. Peter Treby of the Victorian Sea Kayak Poor old Crocodile Winky was so • Pack all gear into rodent-proof seal- Club for their dogged determination in upset by this heinous accusation, able daypacks, overnight bags or solid convincing me that 1 December 2007 he had to sign up for six-week grief boxes with no holes. was an auspicious time to mark the counselling course. 25th anniversary of a successful fi nish • Unroll and inspect any tarpaulins, to RAKE, the 1982 Round Australia To ensure Lalaguli, the yellow kevlar tents or covers. These are known Kayak Expedition. When David and Nordkapp used for the Aussie trip, hiding places for rats, mice, insects Peter fi rst fl oated the anniversary would be in Melbourne in time for and seeds. project, 18 months earier, they faced her fi nal paddle, before going on a very diffi cult task in convincing me display at the Queencliff Maritime • Clean and check all tools and ma- it was a rather good idea. Twenty-fi ve Museum (QMM), I air-freighted her chinery contaminated by soil e.g. years - the mere notion made me feel over early. spades, shovels. These should be free really, really old. of all pests, dirt, soil, plant material The Anniversary Day and seeds. I emailed back saying I was very I fl ew the original RAKE support team happy living life as a recluse on the of Lesley Hadley and Andy Woods • All footwear should be clean and edge of Lake Tasman. I neither wanted across to Melbourne on 30 November. free from soil and seeds. nor needed an anniversary and both We were hosted, chauffeured and the kayak Lalaguli and myself were fed and watered by members of • If you are kayaking, check it for still in good (the kayak) to moderate VSKC. David Golightly, master of rodent sign (e.g. droppings, gnawed (me) working order. We were certainly spreadsheet planning, had emailed food and cables) and insects, particu- not ready for what I considered to be a detailed schedule of when, where, larly ants. exceedingly premature, stuffi ng and how and who, but even so there were mounting on a museum wall. many surprises in store for us. • If you think a pest or weed has reached the islands, contact the De- David was polite and very persistent. Just before 11am, two Nordkapps, partment of Conservation (Bay of I eventually surrendered to his charm, Andy Woods and myself were Islands Area Offi ce, ph. 09-4070300 with a proviso there were no more dropped at a sandy beach, inside or Russell Visitor Centre, ph. 09- people on the beach for the fi nish Point Londsdale, with a VHF radio to 4039005) immediately. than 25 years ago when a total of 10 ensure we paddled in to Queenscliff people, give or take a few, assembled at precisely midday. The day was a If you’d like to get involved join the to mark the fi nish of RAKE. cracker, an ebb tide pushing out of Guardians of the Bay of Islands: Port Philip Bay but a light southerly [email protected] The next step in the anniversary breeze to counteract the drift. What They are also seeking donations to planning was a begging email sent to caame as a complete surprise to me help with ongoing biosecurity costs. kayak clubs throughout Australia and was the sight of two kilt clad pipers, Send your donation to: New Zealand asking for donations who were warming up their chanters. Guardians of the Bay of Islands Inc, towards a plaque and a jolly good As Andy and I launched, the pipers PO Box 367, Paihia 0247. piss-up. This was despite me offering began playing ‘Going Home,’ a For the Guardians mailing list or to to pay for a bag of quick setting Scottish melody but perhaps better check progress see: concrete, a tanalized fencepost and know as the largo or slow movement www.boiguardians.co.nz the cost of laminating and mounting from Dvorak’s New Word Symphony. the photograph of a very skinny This was the melody piped to Andy The Department will provide an up- and dehydrated kayaker following and myself as we paddled out of the date in future KASK newsletters. two days of paddling the Nullarbor Murchison River mouth at Kalbarri, Cliffs. Western Australia, back in 1982 by Pauline Moretti Kennie Wilson.

16 The Sea Canoeist Newsletter

Ken and his daughter Sally had earlier fl own to Melbourne, for two reasons, fi rstly to attend the anniversary and secondly so they could check the assembly of a three piece real scale wooden model of Lalaguli and myself. What is now termed the Kalbarri Carving, a really good replica of paddler and kayak, was also going on permanent display at the QMM. (See p.4 photo in newsletter No. 130). Now in his 80th year, Ken no longer had the puff for pipe playing.

On the water, the paddling was superb, no hustle and bustle or traffi c chaos, just Andy and myself recreating the fi nal leg of the Australian trip, from 25 years ago. Rounding the cliffed headland at Queenscliff, seeing the Lalaguli, after her fi nal paddle, on her way to the top of the white jetty and a huge mob of people headland for the plaque unveiling. Photo: Peter Costello waiting was pretty good but the wail of the pipes from the top of the headland one evening the mine manager and I my speech we were ushered to a tripod almost brought tears to my eyes. stopped at a small local watering hole, of carbon fi bre paddles, supporting a the Buckshead Tavern. Supping our draped black cloth. I pulled a cord to Lesley was waiting on the sandy beach, beers, I was introduced to a rather large unveil the plaque, exposing a basalt and very special bottles of Seaview local miner, who weighed around 25 boulder. Centred on top, the sight of Brut de Brut were produced, one for stone. The manager introduced me and the design and words on the plaque drinking and one for spraying the said, “Paul has just fi nished this huge was another almost tears to my eyes paddlers. The RAKE team were then trip around Alaska; a bear ripped open moment (See photo). arranged for photographs, as for the his tent one night, there were whales fi nish 25 years ago, then proceedings and walrus.” The big bloke took a sip Led by a piper and David Golightly, moved to the top of the headland. Four of his beer, before looking me in the and followed by the four strapping strapping VSKC members solemnly eye and asking, “Alaska aye. Tell me blokes with Lalaguli, we slowly carried Lalaguli up to a pride of place who owns the pub up there now?” walked as a solemn procession through in cradles, before Lesley, Andy and I lunch-time picnickers to the QMM. I were allowed up the path and ushered To that point we were in the dark re formally presented museum chairman to seats by a rostrum. Club President ‘the anniversary plaque’, the funding Les Irving-Dusting and curator June Les Bognar opened the ceremony, of which had led to so much grief for Negri with a copy of The Dreamtime then the Mayor of Queenscliff, Pat poor old Crocodile Winky. Following Voyage and the permanent loan of Semmens, made a lovely speech. She was followed by Peter Treby who paid a superb tribute to the around Ozzie trip, which was so good at times I was tempted to look over my shoulder to see who he was talking about. Then it was my turn.

I tried to explain I was not ungrateful for all the hard work that David Golightly, Peter Treby, Les Bognar, the VSKC members and the good people of Queenscliff had contributed towards the anniversary but on New Zealand’s South Island West Coast, where I had worked in the coal mines to pay for my habit, I was never allowed to get a swollen head. Following my return from completing the 4,700 mile solo trip around Alaska, I was back working at the Roa Mine, when

17 No. 131 October - November 2007

And this Caffyn bloke used a rudder! How bloody un-British! It is obvious his antecedents were sent to Australia by some of the fi nest legal brains in all of Britain. What about the age of heroic failure, the age of doing things the hard way, doing everything the British way, without a rudder!

And what about going the proper way around Australia? A bloke with family jewels the size of the Cecil, that’s the ram in the back paddock, would have paddled into the prevailing winds.

And surely ewes Victorians could wait until this bloke has fallen off his perch before holding an anniversary.

I have heard from reliable under-the- The RAKE team back together after 25 years. Photo: Peter Costello cover sources this same bloke has put in place some very underhanded Lalaguli. Hauled up with stout ropes Saturday evening, at a yacht club on systems for stopping anyone else and wooden blocks, Lalaguli has had the opposite side of Port Phillip Bay, paddling around Oz. For instance her last paddle but she now has pride of I donned a dinner suit and bow tie word via the bush telegraph is he did place in the very modern museum. for a PP presentation on the paddle a secret catch, training and release around Aussie but clean forgot to give program of a bloody big crocodile at Mounted on display panels were Crocodile Winky the tribute to read Cape Direction, the same croc that took tributes from famous paddlers around out. As I thought it was so good when exception to Sandy Robson’s bottom. the world. I had an inkling that I wrote it, I include it below: (Being of farming stock I think Trevor VSKC had put a lean on paddlers far means kayak stern.) and wide to write kind words about Testesmonial myself, and whatever the bribes that This was received from Trevor, who But my straw hat is off to that bloke. were proffered, they certainly worked is I understand a sheep farmer from Have a good piss-up. Sorry got to – glowing tributes were written by, way up the back of Coonabarabran. go. I see that that Bloody Cecil has for example, Justine Curgenven, Trevor claims to have made the fi rst got into the ewe paddock. Get out of John Dowd, Nigel Dennis and Sandy circuit of the dam in his hill paddock it Cecil!’ Robson. Many were from expedition in a corrugated iron canoe. However paddlers who I have yet to meet. I there is some doubt about the veracity The Speech fi nd it hard to fi nd words to describe of this claim, for I understand that This next bit is what I was going to say, what it feels like to read these lovely after he pulled the sheet of iron off the following big mobs of thanks to the tributes - humbling, embarrassing, but shed roof, and folded it into half, he Victorian Sea Kayak Club members, also a hint of pride. The RAKE trip didn’t plug the nail holes. The yabbies the Queenscliff Borough mayor and was low-key adventure, which became were getting to him before he fi nally staff, June and Les at the museum, and a marvellous way of life for Andy, abandoned ship. all those folk who made a special effort Lesley and myself. The worst day of to be there on that very special day. the whole year was the morning after ‘Gidday. Sorry I can’t be with you the fi nish at Queenscliff. The long term tonight, but the sheep are lambing. ‘You will all be pleased to know that goal or objective had been achieved I am continuing to set myself new, – all that was left were the thank you It gives me a moderate amount of challenges and goals – this year we letters, getting home to New Zealand pleasure to speak on behalf of this spent six weeks paddling on the East and starting work again. Caffyn bloke. However, I reckon it is Greenland coast. a hellofa cheek to ask for testesmonial Concerned that some or all of the for a bloke who used a British designed Why? I still yearn to get away from the tributes were to be read out, I had kayak. Back in 1982, if he’d had family pressures of modern day life, back to prepared a grudging tribute from jewels the size of Cecil, that’s the a simple life of paddling and camping a cow cocky up in the back blocks ram in the back paddock, he would and where the big worry of the day is of the Waikato, which I turned into have used a traditional Australian fi nding a sheltered landing with fresh an Australian sheep farmer, as I bark canoe. At least then he couldn’t water, a comfy campsite and enough hoped Dave Winkworth would read be criticized for barqueing up the driftwood to boil the billy. it when the opportunity arose. On wrong tree.

18 The Sea Canoeist Newsletter

In East Greenland this year – this 20 mile days and a 30 miler is indeed There are three sections from the book was after a long break since the cause for two evening tinctures of The Dreamtime Voyage that recapture Malaya-Thailand trip in 2002 - I medicinal whisky. my feelings of elation and remind rediscovered the joys of expeditioning, me just how far I pushed myself on dropping back into that mode of being It is essential that we encourage that trip: out there in the wilderness, being young people into undertaking - paddling over the bar at Kalbarri totally committed, pitting our skills adventures and, if possible, getting after 34 hours along the Zuytdorp against the weather, ice conditions, them onto the water. This will set the Cliffs and surviving in an icy hostile scene for the next generation of goal - Lesley’s diary quote at the end of environment. setters and achievers and give us the the Baxter Cliffs slog, heartfelt satisfaction that others will - paddling the huge tide race off At the end of most days, I would slump experience the tremendous sense of Goulburn Island at night forward in the cockpit and whimper, achievement of a successful trip, the “I’m too old for this shit!” Without experience of pitting ourselves against And my favourite colour photos fail, after a wee sensation of medicinal the conditions and the sense of pride – escaping from mongrel seas into whisky, a big feed of pasta, and huge and satisfaction that comes at the end Port Campbell and Andy mixing it bowl of tea, I would again feel that of a bloody good trip. with big breakers as he crossed the magic satisfaction of knowing I was Kalbarri bar.’ still out there and doing it. My evening I am indebted to Lesley, Andy for mantra led Conrad to suggest calling their support and encouragement The Pipers our expedition ITOFTS. to complete the circumnavigation Piped out from Point Londsdale, known as RAKE. I could not have piped into the beach at Queenscliff, Some weeks after our return to New achieved the trip without Lesley. and piped during the slow march Zealand, I received a care package Even on the days when I thought the with Lalaguli to the museum, made from Conrad, CDs with trip photos, sky was going to fall on my head, she the anniversary day very special for and carefully wrapped, a coffee mug remained supremely confi dent that I me, something which David Golightly with the words, “I’m too old for this was capable of doing the trip. Andy had drawn from the book. No doubt shit.” The cheeky bugger! paddled the Western Australia coast David’s Scottish ancestry also came with me, and kept our old HQ panel into play. I fi nd it diffi cult to describe or talk van going through the four-wheel drive about the ‘thank god’ feeling when tracks of Southern Australia. I am Lindsay, the older of the two pipers escaping from massive breaking seas still envious of his double page nude was the teacher, Roy the pupil. Seven into the tranquil lee shelter of a bay centrefold in Overlander magazine. months earlier David had booked the or headland. The trip for all of us was a marvellous two pipers for the Queenscliff an- way a life – such a brilliant way to see niversary. Part way through the day, In Greenland, in addition to the the coastal scenery and meet some of David explained to me that Roy had freezing breaking seas, were the wind the characters who live there. contacted him mid week to say he chill, massive icebergs calving, and could not play on Saturday as his father not only the backwash from a cliffed shoreline but also off the backwash David Golightly & Paul Caffyn. Photo: Peter Costello from the icebergs. The sustained intense concentration needed to manage balancing the boat in box seas, avoiding collisions with bergy bits, and staying on course and the successfully escaping from those conditions brought such ‘safe at last’ relief.

I have had so much pleasure from sea kayaking. For me it has never been about setting records, but setting goals, something tangible that would give me focus and something to strive towards achieving. I am fi ghting tooth and nail against the ageing process and have had to scale down the size of the trips and what I can achieve in a day’s paddling. Long gone are the 50 milers of the Aussie trip or the 60 milers of the Japan trip. Now I am grateful for

19 No. 131 October - November 2007 had suddenly died back in Scotland. Roy had booked tickets to fl y home FOR SALE for the funeral. I am a bit fuzzy on the Sea Kayak Trailer next bit, but when Roy expressed bit- Custom built by Briford Trailers in Nov 2005 ter disappointment at having to cancel Hot Dip Galvanised the anniversary engagement, his wife 12 inch wheels, spare wheel, jockey wheel suggested he ring home (Scotland) to Lockable Adjustable for axle placement Excellent cond. see if his Dad’s funeral could be put WOF & Registration to Nov 200808 forward a day, and then what about Takes standard ProRack etc kayak cradles a call to the airline about moving his Easy to load at waist height bookings forward a day. The result? Rated to 750kg (that’s a lot of kayaks) $1200 The funeral was moved, and the airline Contact Paul Lenihan:[email protected] accommodated a change to bookings. On top of all the RAKE anniversary celebrations, this made the day even more poignant to me. That Roy felt his role on the day was so special that he postponed his father’s funeral, really brought home to me how some people viewed the signifi cance of the Australian trip. Paul Caffyn

CCALENDARALENDAR HUMOUR

KASK FORUM 2008 COASTBUSTERS 2008 Up the Scots! SEA KAYAK SYMPOSIUM E though I’m nae a Scot, I reckon Where: Ohope Beach, this will appeal especially to the near Whakatane, in the Bay of Milford (Auckland) & Sullivns Bay teacher types. The scene is Bishoploch Plenty Primary School. Glasgow. When: 25- 27 April 2008, 29 February to 2 March 2008 Anzac Day weekend. Teacher: “Good morning children, Venue: Ohope Beach Christian youth See the website: today is Thursday, so we’re going to camp 6kms east of Whakatane, perfect www.coastbusters.org have a general knowledge quiz. The for surf training, a nice fl at shallow for details. and a registration form. pupil who gets the answer right can beach with nice waves rolling in. Pad- have Friday and Monday off and not dle destinations include Whale Island If not internet connencted, mail come back to school until Tuesday.” day paddle, leave from Whakatane, queries to: Wee Murray thinks, ‘Ya beauty! around rocks at Whakatane, Ohiwa Coastbusters I’m pure dead brilliant at general Harbour and down to end of Ohope POB 101-257 knowledge so I am. This is gonny be Spit for on-the-water sessions. The NSMC a wee doddle!’ camp has a total of 80 bunks and 70 (North Shore Mail Centre) camp spots, a large hall and caterers Teacher: “Right class, who can tell me on site. who said, ‘Don’t ask what our country ANNUAL CANTERBURY can do for you, but what you can do For more information, email Evan for your country?’” Pugh at: SEA KAYAK NETWORK Wee Murray shoots up his hand, [email protected] OKAINS BAY WEEKEND waving furiously in the air. Teacher looking round but picks Jeremy A pul-out Forum Registration form can 2-3 February 2008- Okains Farqhuar-Fauntleroy, at the front, be found in newsletter No. 130. Details Bay Weekend “Yes, Farqhuar?” for internet banking is included. Farqhuar (in a very English accent): (NOTE the changed date) “Yes miss, the answer is J F Kennedy See also the KASK website at for more details email - Inauguration speech 1960.” www.kask.co.nz Fiona Fraser at Teacher: “Very good Jeremy. You and go the the Events page. martin.fi [email protected] may stay off Friday and Monday

20 The Sea Canoeist Newsletter

and we will see you back in class on Onions & the Christmas Tree The Koala & the Little Lizaard Tuesday.” The family is sitting at the dinner A little lizard was making his way Next Thursday comes around, and wee table. The son asks his father, down a bush track in the Australian Murray is even more determined. “Dad, how many kinds of boobies outdoors when he heard a voice, “Hey Teacher: “Who said, “We will fi ght are there?” ya lizard how are you?” them on the beaches, we will fi ght The father,surprised, answers, “Well The lizard looked around and then them in the air, we will fi ght them at son, there’s three kinds of breasts. In up into a gum tree, “Gidday koala sea. But we will never surrender?” her 20s, a woman’s breasts are like whatcha up to?” Wee Murray’s hand shoots up, arm melons, round & fi rm. In her 30s & “I’m smoking a joint. Why don’t you stiff as a board, shouting, “I know. I 40s, they are more like pears, still climb up and join me?” know. Me Miss, me Miss.” Teacher nice, but hanging a bit. After fi fty, looking round and picks Rodney they are like onions.” Well the lizard has never tried smok- Tarquin-Smythe, sitting at the front: “Onions?” ing cannabis before, so up the tree he “Yes Rodney.” “Yes, you see them, and they make climbs and spends a rather sociable Rodney (In a very, very posh, English you cry.” afternoon smoking dope with the koala accent): “Yes miss, the answer is This infuriated his wife and bear. After three or four joints, the Winston Churchill, 1941 Battle of daughter so the daughter says, lizard says, “O koala my throat is so Britain speech.” “Mom, how many types of ‘willies’ dry I just have to have a drink.” Teacher: “Very good Rodney, you may are there?” stay off Friday and Monday and come The mother, surprised, smiles and So down the tree went the lizard climbs back to class on Tuesday.” answers, “Well dear, a man goes and ambles along a bush track to the through three phases. In his 20s, his river. At the river bank, he leans way The following Thursday comes around willie is like an oak tree, mighty and too far over and falls in. Along swims and Wee Murray is hyper, he’s been hard. In his 30s & 40s, it’s like a an enormous crocodile who put his studying encyclopaedias all week and birch tree, fl exible but reliable. After long snout under the little lizard and he’s ready for anything that comes. his 50s, it is like a Christmas tree.” lifts him gently back onto the bank. He’s coiled in his wee chair, dribbling “A Christmas tree?” in anticipation. “Yes dear, dead from the roots up “Hey little buddy,” said the crocodile, Teacher: “Who said ‘One small step for and the balls are for decoration “What’s up with you? How come you man, one giant leap for mankind?” only.” fell into the river?” Wee Murray’s arm shoots straight “I’m stoned Mr crocodile. I’ve been in the air, he’s standing on his seat, First Christmas Joke sitting up a gum tree smoking joints jumping up and down screaming “Me Three men died on Christmas Eve with koala and got really thirsty.” miss. Me miss. I know, I know. Me and were met by Saint Peter at the “ Stoned?” asks the crocodile. “What’s Miss, me miss, meeeeee.” pearly gates. that?” Teacher looking round the class picks “In honour of this holy season,” Saint Rupert, sitting at the front. Peter said, “You must each possess The wet and bedraggled lizard replies, “Yes Rupert.” something that symbolizes Christmas “Oh go along the bush track and ask Rupert (In a frightfully, frightfully, to get into heaven.” the koala. He’s got plenty of dope and ever so plummy English accent): “Yes The fi rst man fumbled through his he’ll share with you.” miss that was Neil Armstrong, 1967, pockets and pulled out a lighter. He the fi rst moon landing.” fl icked it on. “It represents a candle”, So the crocodile heaves himself out Teacher: “Very good Rupert. You may he said. of the river and makes his way along stay off Friday and Monday and come “You may pass through the pearly the track to the gum tree where the back into class on Tuesday.” gates,” Saint Peter said. koala was perched in a fork. The croc The second man reached into his looks up and says, “Gidday koala, Wee Murray loses the plot altogether, pocket and pulled out a set of keys. whatcha up to?” tips his desk and throws his wee chair He shook them and said, “They’re at the wall. He starts screaming, bells.” The koala peered blearily down and “WHERE THE F@&K DID ALL Saint Peter said, “You may pass said, “F**#!!! me - how much water THESE ENGLISH BASTARDS through the pearly gates.” did you drink?” COME FROM?” The third man started searching Teacher spins back round from the desperately through his pockets and blackboard and shouts, “Who said fi nally pulled out a pair of women’s that?” panties. St. Peter looked at the man with a raised eyebrow and asked, Wee Murray grabs his coat and bag “And just what exactly do those and heads for the door, “Bonnie Prince symbolize?” Charlie, Culloden, 1746. See ye on The man replied, “These are Car- Tuesday Miss.” ol’s.”

21 No. 131 October - November 2007 4th. Ed. KASK HANDBOOK Rotorua Kayak Club KASK 7 Mahana Place, Rotorua KASK, the Kiwi Association of Sea Updated to July 2006 Ph: (027) 292 3138 Kayakers (N.Z.) Inc., a network of For a copy (or trade orders) of this email: [email protected] New Zealand sea kayakers, has the mother of all sea kayaking handbooks, GISBORNE Sea Kayakers Club objectives of: contact Paul Caffyn, RD 1, Runanga, John Humphris, 3 Matthews Rd, Gisborne 1. promoting and encouraging the 7873, West Coast. Ph: (06) 868 4657 sport of sea kayaking e-mail: [email protected] email: [email protected] 2. promoting safety standards RRP: $ 34.90 including p&p Website:www.geocities.com/gis- 3. developing techniques & New members: gratis borne_sea_kayakers/ equipment Make cheques out to KASK (NZ) 4. dealing with issues of coastal Inc. WELLINGTON Sea Kayak Network access and protection Mike Wilkin 5. organizing an annual sea kayak The fourth edition of the KASK Hand- 23 A Ilam Grove forum book, is a mammoth compilation on all Kelson, Lower Hutt 6. publishing a bimonthly aspects of sea kayaking in New Zea- Phone: (04) 565 0880 newsletter. land, by many of the most experienced paddlers in the Universe. Following email: [email protected] Website: www.wskn.wellington.net.nz The Sea Canoeist Newsletter is a brief introduction, the handbook is published bimonthly as the offi cial divided into six sections: newsletter of the Kiwi Association - Kayak, Paddle & Equipment SOUTH ISLAND of Sea Kayakers (N.Z.) Inc. -Techniques & Equipment MARLBOROUGH Articles, trips reports, book reviews, - The Elements Martyn Smith equipment reviews, new techniques, - Trips and Expeditions Ph: (03) 5776256 letter to the editor, and moments when - Places to Go [email protected] the word ‘Bugger!’ was said singu- - Resources NELSON - KASK Contact larly or often {referred to by some as Nora Flight incidents} are sought to enliven the SEA KAYAKING Ph: (03) 544 7877 pages of the newsletter. NETWORK ADDRESSES email: nfl [email protected] NORTH ISLAND CANTERBURY Sea Kayak Net- Send in a plain brown envelope, or NORTHLAND Canoe Club work via cybermail to: PO Box 755, Whangarei Andy & Deirdre Sheppard Editor: Paul Caffyn, Brian Lamerton 53 Kent Lodge Ave RD 1, Runanga. 7873 Ph: (09) 437 2858 Avonhead, Christchurch. 8004 West Coast .N.Z. email: [email protected] Ph: (03) 342 7929 Ph/Fax: (03) 7311806 AUCKLAND Canoe Club email: [email protected] Email: [email protected] PO Box 9271, www.CanterburySeaKayak.orcon.net.nz Newmarket, Auckland. OTAGO KASK Annual Subscription email:[email protected] Rob Tipa $35 single membership HAURAKI Kayak Group (03) 478 0360 ($105 for 3 years; $175 for 5 years) Pelham Housego [email protected] $40 family membership. PO Box 46-146, Herne Bay, Auckland SOUTHLAND Sea Kayak Network $35 overseas WAIKATO KASK Contact Stanley Mulvany A subscription form can be down- Evan Pugh, RD2, Putaruru. 3482 03 215 7263 loaded from the KASK website. [email protected] email: [email protected] Cheques should be made out to: Ph: (07) 883 6898 Website: www.sskn.uniformnz.com K.A.S.K. (NZ) Inc. & mailed to: RUAHINE Whitewater Club KASK Administrator 71 Salisbury St., Ashhurst. SKOANZ PO Box 23, Runanga. 7841 Ph: 06 326 8667 Fax: 06 326 8472 P.O. Box 6269 West Coast www.q-kayaks.co.nz/pages/club.asp Dunedin North BAY OF PLENTY - KASK Contact Dunedin Correspondence/Queries to: Iona Bailey, Tauranga email: [email protected] Website: www.skoanz.org.nz Linda Ingram Ph: (07) 576 1492 KASK Administrator email: [email protected] PO Box 23, Runanga. 7841 ROTORUA- KASK Contact West Coast John Flemming, PO Box 1872, Rotorua KASK Website: Send address changes for receiving Ph/fax: (07) 347 9950 www.kask.co.nz the newsletter via email to Linda at: email: [email protected] [email protected]

22 RAKE 25 -VSKC - 10 DECEMBER 2007 Top: Lalaguli on her last voyage. 25 years ago, Paul Caffyn paddled her into the beach at Queenscliff to complete the fi rst kayak circumnavigation of Australia. Below: Recreating the fi nish 25 years ago, Paul and Andy Woods gliding in to land at Qeenscliff. Photo: Peter Costello No. 131 October - November 2007 MAILED TO

If undelivered, please return to: KASK , PO Box 23, Runanga, West Coast. 7841

Elegance and opulence at the annual Marlborough Sounds Sea Kayakers’ Pilgrimage. Photo: Rory Forbes KASK MEMBERSHIP POLICY Current membership fees are: - $35 for ordinary membership - $40 for family or joint membership - $35 for overseas membership - new members receive a free copy of the handbook - members should endeavour to renew by 1 August - the KASK fi nancial year runs 1 August to 31 July the following year - a subscription due notice and up to two reminders are sent out with the newsletters between June and October - if a membership renewal is not received by 30 September, membership lapses - new members who join between 1 June and 31 July automatically get their membership credited to the following year, receiving a 14 month membership - the KASK committee puts its emphasis confi rming renewals from existing members from July to October; and pro- moting new KASK memberships from November to February.

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