SeaTrek

The Long Reach of the Past www.vskc.org.au

Winter 2016 Issue 86 The VSKC , and take their its annual general meeting held to remote and interesting areas. as part of a weekend of activities The Victorian Sea Club Equally, we all love relaxing short on and off the water, with was formed in 1979, aimed at trips in our local waters, with informative training sessions and bringing together sea kayakers in plenty of time to socialise. presentations from interesting our part of the world, creating We welcome new members and speakers. We run a range of club opportunities to meet and encourage a culture in which trips throughout the year for all organise trips, and to promote members help each other with levels of ability, helping members the interests of sea kayakers. skills, gear, safety, trip to improve their proficiency and Club members have done some information and organisation. take part in trip leadership. We marvellous and sometimes very The club runs training courses keep in touch through this challenging trips by and has a grading system, website, email news, and our club around our nearby coasts of although training is not aimed at magazine Sea Trek. and and absolute novices. New members For more information read go to further afield. Our founding are expected know something of the Docs and Downloads link members made the first sea sea , have access to a from the Web page, and kayak circumnavigation of kayak, and be ready to explore download our Operating Tasmania and the first south to the marvellous opportunities Principles and Membership north crossing of Bass Strait. which sea kayaking offers. The application, or contact our Members regularly across club gets together once a year for Membership Officer. Sea Trek 86 Winter 2016

In this Edition

Regular Columns Editorial 4 President’s Podcast 4

Feature Warped Lineages (Helmut Heinze) 5 The Past is never where you think you left it! — Reflections of the 40th anniversary of the Valley Nordkapp forti (Bob Fergie) 8

Day Trips and Overnighters Around the Prom with the VSKC Mob (Andrew Bronsvoort) 16 Sea Kayaking in (Evelyn Feller) 18 Seeing The Light (Penny Byron) 21 A Journey in the West — Altona to Werribee South (Ben Flora) 23 Nooramunga Marine Park — The Full Monty Paddle (Richard Rawling) 25

Club Life

Cover Sorrento — Level 1 Assessment Day (Joe and Kate Alberico) 29 Photo: Ben Flora (Red Eye, 23 July 2016, Snake Island Queen’s Birthday Weekend 2016 (Kate Alberico) 30 adapted for Sea Trek)

Sigla BF: Bob Fergie • BFL: Ben Flora • DF: Doseena Fergie • HH: Helmut Heinze • JA: Joe Alberico • KA: Kate Alberico • KR: Keith Russel • PW: Peter Wilson • SF: Safina Fergie • TB: Terry Barry.

Responsible Editor for this Edition: Helmut Heinze in collaboration with Ben Flora Contact Photo Stories [email protected] http://www.vskc.org.au Nooramunga National Park — The Full Monty — Photo Story (Richard Rawling) p27 Snake Islanders — Photo c Victorian Sea Kayak Club – http://vskc.org.au Story (Ben Flora) p32 SeaTrek 86 Regular Columns

Editorial

many future issues. Many Joe Alberico with 2 arti- of you know Ben already cles!, Andrew Bronsvoort / as an avid Red Eye paddler, Sasha Innes!, Evelyn Feller photographer and author of and Penny Byron), and the Sea Trek stories but you will many photographic contri- get used to him chasing you butions from the Fergies. for stories as well ... Work on Sea Trek won’t Now, let’s get this Win- stop here. Ben and I will be ter edition out, warts and starting working right away all (I claim responsibility on the next edition which for all typos and format- is to appear in November Two pictures? One sink- ting flaws). A big thank just before the AGM. As al- ing, one rising editor? Dear you to our all our authors, ways suggestions and con- Sea Trek readers please the reliable ones, the pro- tributions welcome! welcome Ben Flora as con- lific ones (a massive 7 page tributing editor of this Sea article on the Nordkapp!), Ed. Trek issue and, hopefully of the first-timers (Kate and

President’s Podcast

dles this winter, I’ve also a 10km paddle down to Ea- lowed by coffee and break- relished the occasional pad- gles Nest on the Saturday fast at the local sea side dle out from Cape Paterson afternoon. The conditions cafe. (where, incidentally, this were perfect with barely In these and many other years Paddle Fest and AGM a breath of wind, a gen- club activities, we are in- will again be held early tle and oily-glass-like deed fortunate to expe- November). water. Many thanks to rience the wonder of There is something re- Brandon for coordinating our stunning maritime play- ally special about quietly this and to Fiona for pro- ground. Its all part of cruising along in our long viding excellent first aid being members of a ter- skinny boats, being ab- instruction over the two rific club as this issue of Winter for many wa- sorbed into the mesmeris- days I should add. Sea Trek further demon- ter sport enthusiasts is ing ocean grandeur of in- Similarly the club’s strates. Again, many sometimes a time of hi- tersecting , swell, wind monthly Bay pad- thanks to Helmut and Ben bernation as and waves. Seeing close dles organised by Robin for putting it together and drop and daylight hours up the rich marine wildlife, and Richard continue to to all those who have con- shorten. Even so, there including the occasional provide terrific opportu- tributed their unique stories are others like myself who whale, not to mention the nities to enjoy a mixture as well. I trust that all really enjoy dur- magnificent scenery of our of paddling, training and VSKC members will enjoy ing the cooler months. Of Victorian Coastline, is for- socialising. Early on Sat- the read as much as I have. course dressing for immer- ever fresh and fascinating I urday mornings, the Red Cheers sion is necessary, but with find. Early August was a Eye Ricketts crew led by Bob Fergie (VSKC Presi- the right gear there is great case in point when a num- Andrew Campbell and Pe- dent) delight in getting on the ber of us who were involved ter Costello, maintain the water. While I’ve enjoyed in the terrific Wilderness iconic pre-sunrise Saturday a number of Bay side pad- course, got out for morning Bay fol-

c Victorian Sea Kayak Club – http://vskc.org.au 4 SeaTrek 86 The Long Reach of the Past

Helmut Heinze Warped Lineages

Marvel at the infinitely complex, thoughts on the evolution of kayak applies to any evolution; the cultural sculpted shape of a contemporary design, on how history shapes shapes, evolution of tools is governed by the high-end paddle blade. Form fol- as it were. principle of “good enough” for the lows function. A shape that exudes purpose (unless there is a separate ad- beauty and tells of unconditional obe- ditional driving some arms dience to the physics of fluid dynam- race between competing parties). ics. The material is space-age car- Second. If good enough is good bon fibre, a dark twill weave be- enough then there can be many so- low a glass-hard shiny surface. The lutions to the same problem. With blade is less than a millimetre thick respect to the designs of Green- at the edge. — Marvel at the beau- land kayaks it has been noted that tiful grain of the cedar wood of the there is a great number of differ- hand-crafted paddle, the ing hull shapes and construction de- varnish, the organic shape, the warm tails. Some may be attributed to touch. One paddle is produced in different sea conditions in different high-end factories, using the latest regions, but most differences would of technologies that are only avail- appear to be just random — vari- able in an industrial setting such as ants that emerge and stabilise with- ovens to cure the epoxy resin at a pre- Ethnological exhibit #1: A typical Western out any obvious cause. One sticks cise . The other is hand- practice of shaping things — Sample from: to whatever works, the odd improve- carved from carefully selected pieces Jackson et al. The Hydrodynamics of Paddle ment in building technique notwith- of wood, guided by the critical eye Propulsion standing. In tribal societies without and touch of the maker, based on ex- written records all cultural knowledge perience, not unlike the work of a has to be handed down oral narra- luthier. One has its origins in com- A word on evolution — good tion and lived practice. Any devia- petitive racing, the other in the re- enough will do tion in design poses the threat of irre- enactment of traditional craftmanship versible disruption. This in itself is a received through (popular) ethnol- First. A common misunderstanding of strong cultural that discourages ogy. Superficially both paddles can’t the of evolution is the assump- change, and with impedes variation be more different. They belong to dif- tion that they keep optimising the and selection of superior variants. ferent worlds. Yet paddlers use both adaption of whatever it may be (or- Third. Evolution often finds the paddles side-by-side, with very little ganisms, technical ) to the same for the same problem separating them — the occasional rib- environment. The often quoted Dar- multiple times. The same materials, bing between spoon and stick pad- winian formula “survival of the fittest” the same type of society, the same en- dlers notwithstanding. In competi- is not quite correct, it should read: vironmental features — the same so- tive racing everyone is using the wing the survival of those fit enough. Mat- lution in principle (but possible with blade; yet for our way of sea kayak- ing behaviour can be competitive and random variations in detail). The ing the choice of paddle seems to be a actually lead to the selection of the kayak and the North American matter of personal preference, not of fittest (with respect to whatever rele- are both minimalist solutions to get- necessity. vant attribute) but other behavioural ting hunters on the water, giving them Same goes for the kayak itself. treads can emerge which as such have a reasonably fast vehicle. The design Composite layups and boats nothing to do with adaption to en- is simple and surprisingly efficient in dominate but skin-on-frame construc- vironmental conditions (think of in- terms of technology and materials re- tions, wooden constructions or even fanticide among lions — male lions quired. folding boats are being used as well. killing offsprings that are not their How come that there’s seemingly own, and by doing so reinforcing ge- so little difference between ancient netically this behaviour; this is not Cultural origins of modern sea and contemporary high-tech designs? a feature that is directly related to kayaks Is it because the ancient designs hap- the survival of the fittest in the sim- pened to be already (almost) per- ple sense). As far as the adaption to Kayaks are man-made crafts, not or- fect? the environmental is con- ganisms. Kayaks do not mate and I would like to offer just a few cerned: good enough will do. This propagate (pity!). We tend to see a

c Victorian Sea Kayak Club – http://vskc.org.au 5 SeaTrek 86 The Long Reach of the Past straight lineage that connects our sea nature and simple life in painting, po- tion of the Wandervogel tent into a kayaks to boats, but the evolu- etry and music (the ‘song’ emerged water craft. In 1907, Johann Klepper, tion of the modern sea kayak cannot as a new artistic form). And seep- a tailor turned entrepreneur for out- be told as a simple story of variation ing through all forms of art there is door clothing and tents, bought the and selection of variants. The traits of the motif of infinity, the dissolution of intellectual rights for a boat design modern kayaks have not (!) evolved boundaries, the yearning to leave, the and developed it into a standardised from Greenland kayaks in a straight idea of the eternal migrant. high-end product for the wannabe ad- line. On can argue that this Roman- venturer with a well-filled wallet. Something else is at work: a the tic Movement in the 1st half of the Building boats from scrap mate- history in our back, the horizon of 19th Century is an early response rial had emerged as a past time of our own culture. We are oblivious to a perception of a not-well under- young adults with access to rivers; to it because it constitutes our own stood, creeping modernisation of life sometimes organised in clubs, some- world. It forms our horizon that en- in Northern Europe. times just by individuals, sometimes compasses our world. We are cap- Fast forward to the end of the 19th just as matter of child play at the wa- tives of this world. Any questions aris- Century. By now the world appears ter edge. ing within this horizon cannot tran- patently modern. Industrialisation scend it. Our knowledge of and inter- has spread throughout North Europe. est in the Inuit culture and their boat- A dense network of rail connections ing skills emerged within our own links the cities all over Europe. Steam cultural horizon. Ancient kayaking ships provide safe and predictable culture for us is a product of our ocean travel. News travel fast through ethnography. And we mostly will telegraph lines. There are daily news- have forgotten that modern ethnogra- papers, illustrated magazines, easily phy harks back to intersection of the accessible books — at least for the Romantic Movement of the 19th cen- urban middle class. Trams start rat- tury with the emerging research in the tling through the big cities. The nat- Humanities. ural sciences are flourishing; the late What I mean, terribly simplified: 19th Century is the period of rapid ad- our modern sea kayak has its cultural vances in engineering, chemistry and origin in the 1800s. How is that? medicine. Life after the Napoleonic Wars in But the yearning remains, and if North Europe became in a sense ‘mod- anything it has become even stronger. A DIY rag cruiser made from scrap material ern’. There is an emergent class of Young people dream of running away, pre-WW I — Source: Ringer, Faltboot. small town citizens. The social form going to sea. Youth literature is of the modern core family becomes full of adventurous descriptions about more prevalent. Political upheavals the life of ‘primitive people’ (’primi- notwithstanding, small town life be- tive’ in the sense of not tainted by came increasingly settled, secure . . . civilisation). Away, Away! is the and to some extent boring. It is the new catchcry. A new youth culture period of a secluded private life in emerges — hiking, breaking out, at one’s home, the period of Hausmusik least for a day or two, leaving the (music performed at home in a close cities, seeking nature, celebrating the cirle of family members), a period of simple life, doing away with etiquette, an increased educated readership de- being on the move. Equipped with a vouring novels and poetry. guitar (remember the Romantic song It is also in the early 19th Century culture) and maybe a tent or just a that the mainly small town middle blanket to sleep on a haystack or slip class started seeing nature no longer into a barn — this movement was as a place of looming threat, of doom, known in Germany as Wandervogel but as a place of yearning, of enchant- (migratory bird, or more precisely: ment, of magic. A keen interest in the rambling bird). life of peasants emerged. Authors col- This Wandervogel culture did not Rag cruiser? Tent turned boat? lected folk songs and fairy tales (fa- stop at the water’s edge. Wandervo- Traditional kayak? — A well- mously the Grimm brothers) — the gel is a dominant force behind the attired Johann Klepper testing an beginnings of domestic ethnography. success of the modern . early prototype in1907 — Source: The arts were celebrating enchanted The folding kayak is the transforma- http://www.klepper.com/en/history.html

c Victorian Sea Kayak Club – http://vskc.org.au 6 SeaTrek 86 The Long Reach of the Past

inspection of the very early design the kayak (and North American canoe). lineage is less clear. It’s basically a Not chronologically in the books of good enough solution for those week- world history or archeology, but in end ramblers with deep pockets and terms of their appearance within the the urge to venture onto the water, horizon of Western society. paddling down the river along a rail- way line and coming home with the Away, Away! disassembled boat stowed in the bag- gage car. We struggle to understand our own history. Wherever we turn — it’s in Folding boat meets Inuit kayak our back. Wherever we look — we are captives within its horizon. The cul- It was only in the late 1950s when tural history of the modern sea kayak Ken Taylor travelled to Greenland is yet to be written. And when we feel Wanderlust: the well-heeled middle class with a specific interest in the kayak the pull of the sea, the urge to venture travels by train with folding boats (1920s, design and practice of the Inuit. out, spellbound by misty horizons and Rosenheim in South Germany, the home of He brought back a skin-on-frame unknown shores we keep living the Klepper) — Source: Ringer, Faltboot built for him, which started a line of Romantic dream of 19th Century. modern sea kayaks, the Valley Anas Maybe this is what unifies us, Acuta being a translation of the orig- (talking about the kayaking-crazy inal shape into a composite construc- ones) — and explains why the dif- tion, and the Valley Nordkapp being ference between an Inuit paddle or a a technical optimisation, doing away racing-optimised paddle seems of lit- with the hard chines that have be- tle importance. come an optional feature in a frame- less construction. — Yes, that is where the idea of a clean lineage Sources from ancient Inuit boats to modern sea kayaks comes from. There is no In no particular order, just a few ran- dispute. But the folding boat pre- dom sources consulted: ceded it. And when Taylor was trav- • [Klepper] History. http://www.klepper.com/en/history elling to Greenland he took along a • Jackson, P. S. et al. The Hydro- (Scottish) folding boat — a craft with dynamics of Paddle Propulsion. 11 its own cultural heritage rooted in the Australasian Fluid Mechanics Con- Warped lineages: a Klepper next to a rag youth movement of the 1900s and in ference. Hobart 1992, 1198–1200. cruiser and a Greenland-inspired design de- European Romanticism of the 1800s. URL http://people.eng.unimelb. sign (early 1950?) — from an early adver- edu.au/imarusic/proceedings/11/ tisment Jackson.pdf. • Ringer, J. Faltboot — Ein Back to the question of what Stuck¨ deutscher Geschichte. Un- shaped the shape of the modern published Paper. http://www. kayak. There are probably three fac- classic-forum.org/images/ tors at work: Buchrezensionen/Historisches/ • Knowledge of traditional 305-2015-CF-Faltboote.pdf. and kayaks, as exhibited in the eth- • Taylor, K. Kayakhunting in Il- nological collections in the big cities lorsuit Greenland. https:// (Berlin, Munich). kayakgreenland1959.wordpress. • A culture mainly among the work- com/author/kayakgreenland1959/ ing class of improvising “rag cruisers” • Winning, Duncan R. Ken Tay- from scrap material (wooden planks, lor’s Kayak The Origins of Mod- fruit boxes, hessian sack material wa- ern Greenland-Style Kayaks. Sea terproofed with pitch or tallow). Tailor’s folding boat in Greenland — Kayaker Magazine. Dec 2008. • Production techniques and materi- Source: Taylor Kayakhunting http://www.ravenwoods.org/ken- als from tent fabrication. taylors-kayak-the-origins-of-modern- Superficially the Klepper may look In this sense the modern folding greenland-style-kayaks. very much like a kayak, but at closer boat precedes (!) the ancient Inuit

c Victorian Sea Kayak Club – http://vskc.org.au 7 SeaTrek 86 The Long Reach of the Past

Bloomfield, Hoffmeister and Caffyn kayaks at the Queenscliff Maritime Museum — Photo: BF

Bob Fergie The Past is never where you think you left it! — Reflections of the 40th anniversary of the Valley Nordkapp forti

If you’ve enjoyed a visit to the Queen- the second successful circumnaviga- For the purpose of this article, scliff Maritime Museum (QMM), like tion of in 2009 where she however, my focus centers on the me you will have marveled at the became the first woman to complete Nordkapps. This is not simply be- VSKC-initiated exhibit of three very the circumnavigation. Unlike the two cause of their classic West Greenland famous sea kayaks, two of which are Nordkapps, her Epic is a modern form or their enduring and unsur- from the legendary Nordkapp stable. Swede-form boat designed for speed passed fame as the expedition kayak Hung between them is the Epic sea with a much longer waterline and chosen for many of the most extreme kayak paddled in minimal rocker. expeditions of modern history. It is

c Victorian Sea Kayak Club – http://vskc.org.au 8 SeaTrek 86 The Long Reach of the Past because in its most recent 40th an- unique Sisson-designed cockpit and niversary incarnation (the Nordkapp built in seat, and hatches made of rub- forti), Valley has returned to the hull ber rather than the original and less shape of the original 1975 Nordkapp. effective metal Henderson hatches of As one who has owned two post-2000 the earliest Nordkapps (as on Bloom- Nordkapps the question in my mind field’s HM). is, is this a case of mushy ‘good old Yes, both boats bear the name days’ nostalgia, or, is it an unusual Nordkapp, but they are quite different case of the ‘old (hull) being ahead of boats. In fact since the production of it’s time’? the first Nordkapp (HS) in 1975 there In attempting to find a credible an- have been many many variations such swer to this, let me return for a mo- that some would say that the most re- ment to the amazing kayak display at cent incarnations (certainly those pro- the QMM, and to some basic observa- duced post-2000) bear little resem- tions about the two Nordkapps in par- blance in shape and handling to the Author’s Jubilee Nordkapp — Photo: DF ticular. original configurations. I have long The Nordkapp at the top is a very wondered about this given that I have While I have thoroughly enjoyed early UK-produced version probably owned two post-2000 models. both of these boats, I kept hearing built in 1977 or 1978 I think. It was My first Nordkapp was purchased that these post-2000 Nordkapps were designated a Nordkapp HM (H refers third hand in early 2009. This rather very different to the original HS Nord- to fitted ‘hatches’ and M to a ‘mod- heavy boat (all 36kg of a pre-vacuum- kapp and I wanted to know why. Ob- ified’ built in hull). This boat pressed expedition lay-up) was des- viously, being able to visually com- was paddled by founding VSKC Pres- ignated the Nordkapp Jubilee for the pare my boats with the Bloomfield ident Earl Bloomfield when he com- USA market and the Nordkapp H20 and Caffyn boats at the QMM was pleted the first circumnavigation of for the UK market. Mine has two oval helpful to a point. I noticed, for exam- Tasmania by sea kayak in 1979. It hatches (hence the H2O designation), ple, the QMM Nordkapp’s fuller bows has a built-in skeg to better man- a glassed-in hanging seat, pinched and sterns and different deck set-ups. age the weather cocking tendencies and up-swept bow and stern and a However, I could only speculate as of the original standard hull. It also slightly higher and more rounded rear to how these may have changed the sports a rather awkward rear deck deck. It took me some time to feel on-water performance relative to the bilge pump. Of greater significance, comfortable in it given that I was a later Nordkapps I have owned. What it incorporates perhaps the first hull- very raw newbie to sea kayaking in I really wanted was to be able to com- adjustment Valley made to the origi- 2009. It’s classic lines and reputation pare the respective ‘old versus new’ nal hull shape designed and built in for nuanced performance as a thor- boat hulls on the water. Realistically 1975 by Frank Goodman for a ma- oughbred captivated me. It’s hardly that was not likely to happen any jor expedition (the built-in skeg was a beginners boat as I soon discov- time soon given the quarantined her- added to reduce weather-cocking). ered and it very quickly exposed my itage status of Bloomfield and Caffyn’s That epic 500mile expedition to Nord- inexperience and novice skills. As boats, and the fact that I didn’t know kapp in Scandinavia was followed my earliest paddling mentors, Peter anyone else with a pre-2000 Nord- by a 1977 expedition around Cape Costello and Andrew Campbell said kapp sporting the original hull shape. Horn—both firsts for sea kayaks, and to me when I first started paddling Much to my delight, however, in the reason why the Nordkapp became the Jubilee, ‘it may feel tippy at first, early 2015 I heard by the cyber- the boat of choice for many serious but if you persist, the boat will fast space grapevine that Valley was on expeditioners. track your paddling skills expedien- the verge of releasing a special 40th The bottom Nordkapp is similar to tially’. They were right, and with time anniversary Nordkapp based on the Bloomfield’s HM, yet different again. I came to enjoy it more and more in- original 1975 Frank Goodman hull It is ’s ‘Lalaguli’ Sisson creasingly challenging sea states. shape. I also heard that Expedition Nordkapp (built in by In 2013, I bought a second almost- Kayaks (EK) in Sydney was planning Graeme Sisson using an imported new Nordkapp that is very similar to import three into Australia late Goodman ‘standard’ and therefore to the Jubilee except that it is much 2015. At my request Rob Mercer of EK skeg-less Nordkapp hull mold). It was lighter (23kg) and has a plastic ad- agreed to bring one down to the VSKC in this boat that Caffyn completed justable seat. The cockpit combing is Blue Water Paddle Fest early Novem- the first successful circumnavigation of lighter construction and a slightly ber 2015. After all we had already of Australia in 1981/2. Interestingly, different shape as well. As best as I invited him to be one of our keynote it has been retrofitted with a rudder can tell, it performs much the same as speakers for that event. With this ar- built in Tasmania. It also has the my older Jubilee though. ranged, all I hoped for was a chance

c Victorian Sea Kayak Club – http://vskc.org.au 9 SeaTrek 86 The Long Reach of the Past to have few paddles in the forti so as to produce a similar but higher vol- to get an idea of how it looked and ume boat for a serious 500 mile, load- performed relative to my two post- carrying expedition in 1975 to Nord- 2000 Nordkapps. kapp (the northern-most cape of Eu- rope through the Arctic fiords of Nor- way). Nordkapp was the destination That wish certainly came to and Goodman’s Nordkapp (as it was fruition, but surprise, surprise, and, aptly named) was the modified high after paddling the forti on three volume West Greenland boat purpose- separate occasions during the Pad- designed for the job. dle Fest weekend, I began to think it might be worth actually own- ing one of these ‘back-to-the-future’ boats. This of course was a danger- ous thought, given that my wonderful Author in his newly acquired Nordkapp long-suffering wife was of the opinion forti just inside Sydney Harbour Heads that we had more than enough kayaks early 2016 — Photo Rob Mercer already.. . I think we were ‘down’ to seven at the time! But, as all true pad- dlers’ know, you can’t have too many Pre-design influences on the boats! So, with a good deal of trepi- Nordkapp dation I bravely broached the subject with my dearly beloved on the last It is important to understand that the day of our Paddle Fest. In what can original designer of the Nordkapp, only be described as a ‘weak moment’ Frank Goodman, did not set out to she agreed to an addition to the Fergie create a radical ‘new’ shape when de- Nordkapp fleet (needless to say my signing and building the first Nord- The Anas Acuta — Source: Valley Brochure faith in miracles went up a notch or kapps in 1974/5. His ‘new’ boat was two at that moment). unashamedly very much in the tradi- tion of West Greenland skin-on-frame kayaks, particularly one built in 1959 Since then well over thirty varia- So, Nordkapp #3 was in the bag, in Greenland for anthropologist Ken- tions of the original Nordkapp have so to speak. More than that, it was the neth Taylor. Taylor brought this boat been produced for serious sea kayak- very first Nordkapp forti to hit Aus- back to the UK and almost immedi- ers all over the world, continuing to tralian waters no less. Since then I ately it attracted much interest. In this day– a remarkable fact in itself. have taken every opportunity to get 1964, Duncan Winning surveyed Tay- In rather simplistic summary form, let to know my forti on-the-water (Cape lor’s boat. This lead to the building me outline the main developmental Paterson, Kilcunda, out through the of a stitch and glue plywood replica bookmarks of the Nordkapp with ref- Sydney Heads, Broulee on the NSW by Geoff Blackford which in turn was erence primarily to hull shape. South Coast and so on). While early reproduced in glass-fiber for commer- days still, I have had good oppor- cial sale by Frank Goodman of Valley tunity to mull over the perplexing Kayaks by 1972. This boat was called comparative questions raised earlier the Anas Acuta and remains a magnif- (and to make a few customizations as icent example of a low volume, hard well). chinned boat of the West Greenland Valley Nordkapp 1975–2000 ilk. However, the Anas Acuta was not What follows below are some of without limitations. In particular, it my initial ‘boat survey’ observations did not have the volume necessary regarding the shape and performance for expedition sea kayaking (after all, During this 25-year period the Nord- of the new Nordkapp forti relative to the original West Greenland boats de- kapp hull remained basically the same my post-2000 Jubilee and H2O mod- signed by ’ were for relatively in three variants: the standard hull els. However, before I get into that, short, stealth hunting sorties rather (with no built-in skeg or rudder); a it may be helpful to provide a brief than long expeditions). It was this is- modified hull (incorporating a built- historical time line of the evolution of sue that resulted in Goodman being in skeg) and; a standard hull with re- the Nordkapp. asked by expeditioner Colin Mortlock tractable skeg.

c Victorian Sea Kayak Club – http://vskc.org.au 10 SeaTrek 86 The Long Reach of the Past

Now that I have dealt with this brief excursion into the historical develop- ment of the Nordkapp in all of its vari- ations, I now turn to some compara- tive comments addressing the overall cockpit, deck lay-out, hull shape and one-water performance of the Nord- kapp forti (yellow deck in subsequent photos), relative to the Jubilee/H2O boats (grey deck in subsequent pho- tos) that I have owned. Except other- wise noted, the accompanying photos below were taken by the author

A very early Nordkapp with a standard hull Upper: Nordkapp Jubilee with modified but no hatches — Source unknown) hull configuration; lower: Nordkapp H20 with standard hull configuration — Source: Valley brochure Cockpit combing shape and position These basic variants were devel- oped to help the boat track better A new Nordkapp early 2015 than it originally did. However, as new moulds were made to replace older worn-out ones, subtle and un- To celebrate the 40th anniversary of intended changes to the hull resulted the Nordkapp, Valley produced the as well. Even so, the basic shape of Nordkapp forti. the hull remained much the same as demonstrated by the Bloomfield and Caffyn’s expedition boats displayed at the QMM.

Nordkapps 2000–2014

Forti (yellow deck) vs Jubilee (grey deck) — Photo: BF In 2000 Valley decided to introduce a Nordkapp forti — Source Valley brochure 25year Jubilee anniversary version of the Nordkapp that became the stan- The convex side-on shape of the dard hull shape used ever since. In While adorned with a more con- forti allows for higher thigh braces the UK, this new boat was designated temporary deck set up, the hull shape and flatter, less inverted V-shaped the H2O (with two oval hatches fore of a 1975 boat was used. While not foredeck. and aft) while in the USA it was out of the original plug (no one seems This may reduce the water pooling branded the ‘Jubilee’. While similar to know what happened to it except effect on the skirt and the potential to the early hull shape, to the ed- that it wore out given the high de- for a to implode when sub- ucated eye it also manifested signif- mand for Nordkapps from it’s incep- ject to the force of dumping waves. icant differences, particularly in the tion), Valley was able to create a new much more pinched shape of the bow plug from a surviving original boat. and the stern and the introduction of a good deal more rocker (and a little How does the Nordkapp forti more width). My first two Nordkapps compare? Seat type, height and positioning are from this ‘Jubilee’ / H2O stable.

c Victorian Sea Kayak Club – http://vskc.org.au 11 SeaTrek 86 The Long Reach of the Past

In the forti, the thigh braces are slightly higher allowing for good knee Hatches connection with legs in a straighter, more central position. This is con- ducive to positive leg thrust with for- ward paddling strokes and it still feels The forti has the same exceptional secure when rolling (this was not the Valley hatches and a very similar case with my Jubilee I should add, as deck configuration (fore and aft oval I often experienced my knees slipping hatches and smaller day hatch) to out when trying to ‘hip-flick’). that of the Jubilee/H2O. However, as with many contemporary designs, it also comes with an additional fourth Foot rests ‘glove box’ hatch immediately for- ward of the cockpit. This is a very convenient and watertight compart- The forti has the same Valley plas- ment with reasonable space for nib- tic seat, suspended from the deck as bles, camera, flares and the like. It is the H2O. In its standard form the also much more easily accessible on seat is chocked-up from the floor by the water than the slightly awkward c.80mm (between the front seat lip off centre rear day hatch. and the hull floor). The seat can be positioned further forward or back to suit paddler size and preferred boat trim. Skeg–slide housing The seat can also be lowered a centimeter or two to improve the centre-of-gravity ‘twitch’ dynamic. I The forti has a new and longer skeg made this customized modification to slot housing that is positioned slightly my forti by removing the seat and more to the stern on the left side. shaving back the closed cell foam My forti came fitted with ad- This new arrangement makes the skeg glued to the underneath base of the justable Yakima aluminum toe pegs housing box much more accessible for seat and adding spacers. In the case rather than a 4cm dry cell foam block servicing and repair than the glassed of my Jubilee, I cut out the original against the forward bulkhead used in in mounting of the Jubilee and H2O glassed-in seat and replacing it with my H2O. I personally prefer the dry models. a customized, closed-cell foam seat cell block because it allows a great va- that was much lower and closer to the riety of foot positioning and control floor of the hull. when driving the boat around. On the other hand, the Yakima footrests allow space for the fitting of a man- ual foot pump fixed to the bulkhead whereas the foam block doesn’t. In the end, a compromise is required one way or the other depending on one’s preference.

Fore deck shape

Given the more convex side-on shape of the forti cockpit, the forward deck is much flatter than the H2O at the cockpit peak. This allows for the very accessible and space-efficient ‘glove box’ compartment and a bit more room for thighs between the thigh Thigh braces braces and the gunwales. Aft deck shape and fittings

c Victorian Sea Kayak Club – http://vskc.org.au 12 SeaTrek 86 The Long Reach of the Past

Both bow and stern ends, as with The forti deck shape is a lit- the original Nordkapps, are a little tle lower and flatter than the Ju- less up-swept in the forti giving the bilee/H2O models with some varia- boat a side-on flatter appearance than tion to deck lines as well (minimalistic the H2O. but still adequate for housing a spare split paddle). The forti cockpit is posi- tioned slightly more forward (5-6cm) Stern and bow fullness changing the balance of the boat quite Skeg placement a bit, especially given a more fuller hull at both ends. While the extreme end of the stern is very pinched in the forti (similar The forti also has a recessed secu- to the Jubilee/H2O models) the inner rity bar just behind the cockpit in the fullness extends a good 6-7cm more middle. This can also be used as a Given the fuller extension of the hull towards the stern. tow point when on the water. Carry- towards the stern in the forti, there ing toggles are neatly held topside by This, together with the slightly is greater internal room for the skeg bungee clips and are identical to the more forward positioning of the cock- box to be positioned almost 10cm fur- Jubilee/H2O models. pit means that the boat is less likely to ther astern than is the case in the Ju- sink into and therefore slip off small bilee/H2O. In addition to increasing wind waves from the stern given the storage space and accessibility (a real extra . plus relative to the Jubilee/H2O) this As with the stern, the bow of the Bow and stern up-sweep positioning also anchors the stern a forti is a good deal fuller than that of little more in pitching seas. the more pinched Jubilee/H2O.

Mid-section shape

While the H2O has a fairly shallow V shape hull with soft chines, the forti has an even slighter V shape in the mid section. The degree to which this mirrors the first Goodman Nordkapp I’m not sure. It certainly is similar to many of newer sea kayak designs where almost flat midsections are be- coming more of the norm. The chines on both the forti and the Jubilee/H2O are soft and close to vertical by the time they join the gunwale. Forti

c Victorian Sea Kayak Club – http://vskc.org.au 13 SeaTrek 86 The Long Reach of the Past

especially staying on smaller wind far the most comfortable ‘commer- waves from the stern. cial’ seat that I have used. However, I have always assumed this re- not unlike many off-the-shelf boats, flected my own skill-inadequacy the seat hangs an inch or so off the rather than some inherent problem floor with a layer of closed cell foam with the boat. However, in this case packed between the bottom of the it seems that I was not necessarily seat and the hull floor to give some my short-comings. In following seas support. This arrangement may be catching and staying on wind waves fine if your body shape is shorter and in the forti is so much easier I’ve lighter than my 6’2’, 120kg frame. Us discovered. Relative to the Jubilee big blokes have a disproportionately and H2O there clearly is a notably higher mass above the cockpit coam- positive improvement in the forti, ing than below it and this negatively something other diehard Nordkapp impacts our centre of gravity. Ladies, Jubilee paddlers have commented on as well you should celebrate the fact that the (link to Rob Mercer’s review). feminine shape enhances your stabil- I suspect that this improvement ity because your centre of gravity is a Rocker has much to do with two factors al- good deal lower than we mere ‘top- luded to earlier: heavy’ males. Actually, I’ve noticed • in a number of Nordkapp reviews The Jubilee/H2O has more rocker First, the forti is fuller in the stern over the years that Nordkapps tend than the forti, yet the forti remains (as well as the bow), to have higher seat pans than some a very nimble and predictable boat • Second, the cockpit is positioned a other boats and that others, like me, maintaining a nuanced maneuverabil- little further forward, further enhanc- have lowered them to negate exces- ity capacity synonymous with Nord- ing more balanced trim. sive tippy-ness (the Nordkapp’s soft kapps generally. The net effect of these two adjust- ments is that the forti’s stern does not chines and narrowness of hull play a sink and slip off waves in the way the part in this as well it is fair to say). Jubilee and H2O are prone to do. To my new forti I added 1cm hardwood spacers to the side-hanging brackets with this adjustment mak- Stability ing a very significant centre-of-gravity improvement for me, especially in Primary and secondary stability is lumpy re-bound conditions. Unfortu- much the same in the forti and the nately, the side bolt-in hanging plastic Jubilee/H2O boats, although relative joints of the Valley seat remain prone to other boats many would argue that to fracture over a relatively short time the Nordkapp feels a lot tippier when (<12 months in the case of my H2O) you first paddle one. This is true especially if the paddler is into rolling to a degree, but like most expedi- a lot as I am. The plastic bracket joint tion boats, stability improves when is the one serious weakness in what Post-2000 Nordkapp Jubilee/H2O vs Nord- the boats are loaded. The greater the otherwise is an excellent seat. kapp forti, 2015 load the more stable they feel is the Nordkapps by and large are general rule of thumb. The original renowned for their rough water han- Nordkapps were designed to carry a dling, and it’s true as many experi- good 90kg in addition to the of enced expedition paddlers of Nord- Performance comparisons — Speed the paddler, so when unloaded it’s not kapps have noted, that the rougher surprising that many have found them it gets the better Nordkapps perform. (Nordkapp forti relative to the Jubilee a bit tippy. Adding some ballast can While this has more to do with the and H2O Nordkapps) significantly help for day trips when boat’s soft chines that allow water to The forti seems every bit as quick you’re not carrying a boat full of ex- slip under rather than catch, lowering as the Jubilee/H20 into the wind (in- pedition gear. However, that’s not the seat height (in any boat for that mat- deed, all of my Nordkapps, are ahead only solution I have discovered. The ter) certainly helps with greater pri- of the pack into the wind). How- height of the seat above the hull floor mary stability. Customization, consis- ever, it is in a following sea that I impacts stability as well. tent with the peculiar shape, weight have found the Jubilee/H2O boats The Valley seat in the H2O and and height of individual paddlers is struggling to match many other boats, the forti is the same, and for me by an inevitable part of the fine-tuning

c Victorian Sea Kayak Club – http://vskc.org.au 14 SeaTrek 86 The Long Reach of the Past fun of sea kayaking as one strives to The forti seems to replicate the earlier talgia, or, is it an unusual case of the optimize the lowest centre of gravity boat rear deck configuration making ‘old (hull) being ahead of it’s time’?’ (and longitudinal trim) position pos- layback rolls even easier to manage. My conclusion: the forti is a very sible. Forward ending rolls are a little different boat to the Jubilee/H20 hull easier too as the flatter and slightly type. The forti’s fuller bow and stern Tracking lower fore deck allows the paddler, together with the further forward po- if they have the ‘optimal body shape’ sitioning of it’s cockpit significantly With the skeg up, the forti very def- (read: slim, young and flexible), to improves it’s performance in follow- initely tracks better than the Jubilee keep their head lower as they draw ing seas, and it’s slightly reduced and H2O in a quartering sea and to their sweeping paddle up and across rocker improves it’s tracking capac- some degree at least is also easier to the deck. ity as well. Both the forti’s fuller keep straight in a following sea. Cer- bow and stern and the positioning of tainly, paddlers with reasonable edg- the skeg box a little further astern in- ing skills will find that they rarely creases load carrying capacity for ex- need to use the skeg in most condi- peditions. In these respects, the forti tions in the forti. That being said, is, I think a better all-round boat than the deployable skeg provides a very the Jubilee/H2O and it would be fair adequate contingency foil for weather to conclude therefore, that the origi- cocking tendencies that at some point nal 1975 Frank Goodman hull shape will see the stern of any boat slip out was very definitely an ‘ahead of it’s and slide away from the wind. time’ classic. It will be interesting to see if Valley continues to promote the Rolling ease forti in the years ahead. I certainly hope so. A reasonably competent roller will Finally, for those wanting to delve have no trouble rolling the forti. Un- a little deeper into the evolution of like the Jubilee and H2O, its slightly the Nordkapp I would highly recom- low rear deck allows a paddler to fully mend the following up-dated article lay back when rolling up, whether us- The past is never where you think by Mike Buckley. To my knowledge, ing a euro blade or a Greenland stick. you left it! he provides the most comprehensive Interestingly, a number of pad- overview of the Nordkapp story, in- dlers of the pre-Jubilee boats com- I began this article by posing the ques- cluding many additional links as well: mented negatively about the change tion, ‘is Valley’s reversion to the orig- http://www.ukseakayakguidebook. made to the Jubilee and H2O models inal 1975 Nordkapp hull shape in co.uk/nordkapp/art_nordkapp. regarding an increased curvature of their 40th anniversary Nordkapp forti htm the back deck and the height as well. a case of mushy ‘good old days’ nos-

c Victorian Sea Kayak Club – http://vskc.org.au 15 SeaTrek 86 Day Trips and Overnighters

Photo: PW

Andrew Bronsvoort Around the Prom with the VSKC Mob

Written down by Sasha Innes. wind forecast. from one of the only two boats with- • Monday — finish at Port Welsh Pool out a sail. Later one guy admitted that 25 km,, light northeast wind. he might get a sail for future trips, and I love sea kayaking. I still remem- There was some swell forecast, luck- the other one said something like “I’ll ber the first time I viewed one of ily not much gets into the Prom. That get a sail when I am old or retired”. these lovely craft, a Pittarak belong- morning someone checked the wind ing to a friend of mine, and keen fish- at the lighthouse, which indicated 21 erman. I was quickly sold on the knots, luckily it never got that strong idea of sea kayaking after he told me, at sea level. The idea of it did make with such passion, about the ability me a bit nervous. to camp, fish, and the unsinkable na- The Friday night at Tidal River ture of kayaks. In all the 17 years I before commencing the trip I didn’t have been kayaking I have only had sleep well, I was way too excited two friends with sea kayaks, both of about this awesome trip. I was glad to whom are time poor, and don’t have squeeze out a poo, knowing I would the passion that I do, this is why I be on the water for some time. I think joined the VSKC. it is a very important start to any pad- I have been lucky enough to go dle. I was then meeting all the boys on other overnight trips prior to this in the daylight and admiring their ves- one. I presume many of the members sels: three Nadgees, a Maelstrom, and of the club have found getting mates a few other boats I had never seen in enthusiastic and passionate about this the flesh: an Epic 16x, shorter but fast Start in Tidal River — Photo: PW awesome sport impossible, so when I with a plumb bow. A Valley saw the opportunity to jump on board and a RM Nordkapp. All very sexy this Wilson’s Prom paddle, I was ex- boats. I wish I could have one of each. After a little talk, Terry empha- cited about the idea. It is great to be A guy recently told me an equation for sised how important it was to stay in a able to join a group of nature loving, how many boats you need — the ones pod. The small two foot wave faces as like–minded individuals. you have, plus one. I was in a Raider we paddled out were enough to give This was the plan: X. you a good wake up. Timed wrong, • Saturday (22 Apr) — Paddle to and you would get a fresh trickle of Refuge Cove, thirty odd k’s, with the water down the jacket, or at least a beam wind from the south west, fore- Tidal River to Refuge Cove spray to wipe the sleep out of the cast to be light. eyes. We charged off at a cracking • Sunday — Continue to Johnny I heard an early call saying no sails al- pace, I knew these guys meant busi- Souey 25 km, west light southwest lowed. I soon realised that this was ness.

c Victorian Sea Kayak Club – http://vskc.org.au 16 SeaTrek 86 Day Trips and Overnighters

fused water. I noticed how the loaded kayak seemed to handle well, com- Refuge Cove to Johnny Souey pared to what I would expect an un- loaded boat in these conditions. It would be a dangerous trip to do on your own, even in a plastic boat be- cause of the high rugged coastline, there is nowhere to seek refuge. Around the tip of the prom, Terry — the trip leader, made us aware of the flow, on the incoming tide, squeezing between the islands at the tip, thus we hugged the rocks. We were all looking forward to the tail breeze once we past the tip. Imag- ine how the non sail owners felt when the six other boats opened their sails up. We were not pushing an un- comfortable pace to paddle at, but it Refuge Cove next morning — photo: RR must have felt demoralizing after an already long paddle. Being a keen fisherman, I was dis- As we were paddling around, it appointed having come across a sign was hard not to have thoughts of the indicating that Refuge Cove was a ma- Noahs [Aus. slang for sharks – ed.] rine park. It wasn’t until the morn- that patrol these waters. I also tried ing when we spoke to the ranger to memorize every nook and cave that that we were told that it was not you could get a kayak into for the (or no more). I informed him that hopeful future trips around here. The he’d better change his sign. I utilized landscape on the east coast differed what time I had left and managed to greatly from the west. It was clear to catch four small calamari, which went see that it has more coves and sandy straight into the cooler bag with the beaches. There are taller trees on the frozen water. west, which looked like they must cop The light south west wind turned a beating from the prevailing winds. out to be a super light north east- We all stayed together, as a close erly, enough to ruffle our feathers. A pod, and chatted away merrily. A bit beautiful sunny day, a relief after the of shit–giving between some members morning before which had dark skies was an indicator of how much they threatening to rain, but didn’t. had paddled together before. I hadn’t We were heading for Johnny paddled with this mob before, but I Souey — we explored some magnif- was made to feel very welcome. icent coves along the way, choosing I surprised the boys at Refuge to stay closer to the shore for much Cove with a nice cold beer for every- of the journey, as it was much more one, which went down a treat after interesting. There was not a great the 35 k’s we had just paddled. I deal of wildlife, a few cormorants and Down the east side, passing Mount Oberon, must admit I underestimated the ef- a lone seal. Near the end of the Anser Island in our sights, rough stretches fort required for that first day, and day the group decided to split into at South Point — Photos HH and TB there were moments I was regretting two, four — including myself — went carrying eight cans of beer! But the straight to Johnny Souey, and the oth- Of course the wind turned out to joy on the faces when I revealed my ers — Helmut, Keith and Peter, led have a bit more south in it than west, cargo made it all worthwhile. by Richard, explored Rabbit Island, which felt like a head breeze during Being a gear freak, I enjoyed adding an extra five kilometers or so. the whole passage along the south- checking out everyone’s camping My excuse to myself for not partak- west coast of the Prom. The small equipment. I am now adding a He- ing was a sore neck muscle which had swell rebounded off the rocks dipping linox chair to my wish list. been giving me grief for a few weeks. into the sea, making for some con- But I vowed to return and conquer

c Victorian Sea Kayak Club – http://vskc.org.au 17 SeaTrek 86 Day Trips and Overnighters

Rabbit Island another time. As we heel hook entry. I had never seen a I was keen to stay close to the pod split up, the wind turned from south heel hook rescue performed before. It as we crossed the entrance to Port east to be in our favour, thus gaining crossed my mind it would be harder Welshpool, after hearing that it was assistance from the sail again, to my to rescue someone not as fit, or in a breeding ground for Great Whites, delight! rough seas. and hearing Brett’s horrific tale of a I managed to catch five small That night Bill and I cooked shark in this location dwarfing their Australian salmon at Johnny Souey up calamari and salmon to share 18 foot fishing boat. All we saw before getting out of my boat. I amongst us. It wasn’t a huge feast, was one lonely seal basking next to a was filled with glee to find no other but everyone enjoyed a sample. With channel marker. campers at this site. Having arrived this and the beers from the day be- We finished with a scallop pie at before the other half of our group, I fore, I was told, with my fishing the shops — as you do, so I was told was quick to pick out a prime camp prowess and beer carting skills, I —, and ferried back to Tidal River. would always be welcome on future site — with some advise from Bill, a I don’t think anyone would be missions. It was awesome to sit forty plus year veteran of this spot. overly happy to be back at work after around the Trangias that night, and We set up a communal kitchen area, three days in this pristine wilderness. I was looking forward to some camp hear stories of other peoples kayak stories that night. conquests and dramas. I lived with- out the Helinox on this occasion, as With the sun shining and the wa- a driftwood has been arranged into a ter still not that cold, Kevin and I went nice seating area. It is an awesome in for some rolling practice. I campsite, I love this place. had a go with his GearLab Greenland paddle — my first time with a Green- land stick. I found it was as awesome Jonny Souey to Port Welshpool as its reputation and I managed to do The light northerly forecast proved to an angel roll — my first new roll, very be very light, so it didn’t hassle us very different from the standard one. much. The goal was to take the in- I also had a go in Keith’s Aqua- coming tide to Port Welshpool, as we naut, a sweet ride. Terry called me paddled close to the shore, you could in. I paddled in sheepishly thinking really see how fast we were moving, I might have done something wrong. with the tidal assistance. We had To my delight he was impressed with a wonderful experience seeing four The author — photo: TB my rolling, and suggested Keith and I sea hawks gathered in one tree. As practice some rescue techniques. We Richard approached, camera in hand, performed an assisted rescue, with a one flew away from the tree.

c Victorian Sea Kayak Club – http://vskc.org.au 18 SeaTrek 86 Day Trips and Overnighters

Evelyn Feller Sea Kayaking in British Columbia

Michael and I were fortunate enough still a pulp mill company town, but to live in BC for over 30 years and Desolation Sound rapidly becoming a major recreation paddle in many of the places men- centre with sea kayaking, rock climb- tioned in this little writeup. As with Captain Vancouver, a contemporary of ing diving and some good extended many areas it is best to avoid the Captain Cook, was definitely not im- hikes. key holiday periods, usually July and pressed by this section of the British August. September and May/ June Columbian Coast, felt it had little to The four of us had planned a six can be good weather wise. As well offer and gave it the name Desola- day trip into the Desolation Sound like many west coast locations world- tion Sound. As we paddled along area. We chose to do the trip in wide, one can have to deal with fog in September sunshine enjoying views September when schools are back and and heavy deluges every now and of the rugged Coast Range still with summer holidays are over in order to then but if you want to travel and some glaciers and snowfields, we avoid the heavy use of the area by experience one of the most scenic thought Captain Vancouver was really yachts and paddlers. To avoid kayak places on the planet to paddle, I can unlucky with his visit here. Fresh wa- transport hassles we rented boats strongly recommend ‘Beautiful British ter was abundant, the shorelines were from Powell River Sea Kayak which Columbia’. covered with oysters and the sea wa- had a convenient base at our put in ter was rich in kelp beds and marine on Okeover Inlet. We paddled along As I considered writing this arti- life. A major attraction is that the wa- the narrow inlet to Malaspina Inlet cle I realized how relatively easy lo- ter is really warm here reputedly up to to a lovely camp site at Feather Cove gistically speaking it is for visiting sea 26o C in one inlet. Desolation Sound which faced the setting sun. From kayakers to organize some trips in BC. is north of Vancouver on the BC main- here the coastline features long fjords For the last four years we have done land. Getting there is part of the en- like Knight Inlet, many islands and in excellent week long trips to a variety joyment of the trip as it involves two places is notorious for powerful tidal of destinations renting boats at our ferry rides across large inlets where rapids. Desolation Sound is domi- planned put in locations. Some of we have seen whales breaching. The nated by the steep Mt. Addenbrooke these trips are possible by bus so one trip starts literally at the end of the (1740 metres) on East Redonda Is- doesn’t have to rent a car and roof road along this section of the coast. land. Our plans for the next four days racks. The last major town is Powell River, were to camp in the Curme Island

c Victorian Sea Kayak Club – http://vskc.org.au 19 SeaTrek 86 Day Trips and Overnighters group and do day trips across and posing cliffs and a freshwater lake homes, the area offers some lovely along Desolation Sound especially to that was readily accessible and pleas- beaches, good campsites, especially a the inlets that were rich in marine life ant for swimming. Any plans we had Parks site in an old orchard like brightly coloured star fish and sea the next day for crossing the sound on Prevost Island, a rugged shoreline urchins. and exploring the other side were pre- on Valdez Island and the added chal- vented by a 15-20 knot wind and very lenge of estimating the slack current choppy conditions. However these to negotiate Porlier Passage. We saw a conditions subsided and we spent the double kayak capsize and an impres- afternoon exploring nearby islands sive rescue here! and Prideaux Harbour, the moorage area of the Vancouver Yacht Club. God’s Pocket The paddle back to camp started in very benign conditions but as we Gods Pocket is an area with a series were travelling up a narrow channel of islands about four km. off Port we could see distant white caps and Hardy on Northern Vancouver Island. were hit with very strong headwinds It is renowned for very clear water which were quite a challenge to pad- and very abundant marine life. It is dle through and land. very popular for divers and has some Because the weather forecast indi- excellent camping and trails to ex- cated that strong winds would con- plore on the islands. Unfortunately Rich in marine life ... tinue, we decided to head back to the kayak rental place that was very more sheltered waters for the next conveniently located on the harbour two days and explore the more pro- no longer rents so one would need to tected inlets like Malaspina and Theo- transport boats from either a rental dosia Inlets. This was a good decision place in Telegraph Cove or Comox because halfway back to Malaspina Valley Kayaks and Canoes which gen- Inlet we were again hit by a very sud- erally has an excellent selection of den squall that required all our con- boats. centration to stay upright. The sud- denness of these winds was quite a Clayoquot Sound new experience for us- something we had not really experienced in many Clayoquot Sound is located on the years of paddling along the BC coast. west coast of Vancouver Island acces- We spent the evening at an- sible from the town of Tofino — BC’s other excellent campsite at Hare Point surfing mecca. It is a beautiful area where we watched seals and a sea adjacent to the Pacific Rim National ... and with excellent camp sites lion proudly displaying their salmon Park with many large sandy beaches, catching skills. For the last and return lush temperate rainforest covered is- lands and views of rugged mountains The area is quite popular for day we spent our time exploring inlets on the centre of Vancouver Island. snorkelling. As we crossed to the is- which generally had more settlement While one magnet for many people lands, one of us saw a small bear like vacation homes and enjoying the is Hot Springs Cove, there are many swimming between the islands. Be- rugged grandeur of the area and the other attractions in the area such as cause the Curme Island campsites rich marine life. There was still much waterfalls and again lots of wildlife were full, we moved onto a great site more left to explore in the Desolation with even cougars on larger islands on Bold Head which had a number Sound area. like Flores Island. One could eas- of tent platforms, an excellent cook- ily spend a week in the area either ing area that could be easily sheltered Southern Gulf Islands staying in the more protected areas and a well maintained out-house. The around Tofino or heading out to the area is a BC Provincial Marine Park A trip around islands like Galiano, Pacific side of Flores and Vargas Is- and we found the campsites to be con- Thetis, Saltspring, and Valdez can lands for challenges in surf condi- sistently well maintained. The only be very enjoyable and boats can be tions. Boat rentals can be organized drawback for kayakers is that beach rented from Galiano Kayaks. Galiano out of Tofino however in the summer landings are often on boulders and Island can be accessed by ferry and these may be heavily booked. It is plastic boats are a wise choice. is located between the mainland and possible to rent boats in Port Alberni We spent the rest of the day ex- Vancouver Island. While being a on route. ploring Tenedos Inlet which had im- more settled area with lots of vacation

c Victorian Sea Kayak Club – http://vskc.org.au 20 SeaTrek 86 Day Trips and Overnighters

And more ... Organisations and commercial providers The west coast of BC has endless op- portunities for sea kayaking adven- tures for all levels of paddlers. There There is a well-established sea kayak- are protected inlets for new paddlers ing community in BC with organiza- and a good day’s paddle can be expe- tions like the Sea Kayaking Associa- rienced on Indian Arm close to Van- tion of BC and the Sea couver. Many paddlers focus on the Kayaking Association both with web- west coast of Vancouver Island with sites. beautiful but cold beaches on the Pa- For paddlers who don’t want to cific. Areas such as the Nuchatlitz and have their paddling and camping Bunsby Islands offer sightings of cap- gear crammed into their luggage and tivating sea otters and further south exceeding plane weight restrictions the Broken and Deer Groups offer there are quite a number of commer- Further readings quite dazzling intertidal life with very cial sea kayaking tours that are of- colourful star fish, sea anemones and There are many websites and re- fered to the destinations described in frequent whale and sea urchin sight- sources to help plan sea kayaking in this article or to many other places. ings. For more committing paddling BC. there is the West Coast of Nootka Is- Two good books are: land, the Brookes Peninsula or the • Kayak Routes of the Pacific North Haida Gwaii Islands further north West by Peter. Gee and John Dowd with their spectacular forests, marine • The Wild Coast 3 – Kayaking, Hiking life and totem poles on the world her- and Recreation Guide for BC’s South itage site at Ninstints. Sometimes Coast by John Kitmantis one will see bears, wolves, deer or John Kitmantis has published a num- cougars on various places along the ber of guidebooks and maps of vari- coast on Vancouver Island. Once I ac- ous parts of the coast which are excel- tually had a small bear climb into my lent for locating campsites and other boat on the Nuchatlitz ! Of course if key features. one has a couple of spare months and A useful source of information is good organization skills one can start the website for the BC Marine Trails paddling at the Alaskan border and Network which does useful advocacy head to Vancouver, organizing supply for recreation and conservation along drops at various communities along the coast. the way.

c Victorian Sea Kayak Club – http://vskc.org.au 21 SeaTrek 86 Day Trips and Overnighters

Fawkner Beacon — Photo: AC

Penny Byron Seeing The Light

Red Eye Solstice paddle to Fawkner Beacon cold. lights on our kayaks did not provide 18 June 2016. Trip leader Andrew C. any illumination as to where we were going but simply determined our posi- tion in the pod. It was noted by one of The odd serendipities of life awoke the paddling colleagues how closely me at 3 am ready but not all together we paddled together that morning. willing to get up and jump into my car I was being flooded by sensory in- to drive an hour to Sandringham. put by not having vision to rely on. The reason I was not too will- The sounds, smells and motions were ing was not because I wasn’t excited heightened, and I found myself hy- but because I had been kept awake perventilating. A fishing boat came all night by the rain pouring through speeding along through the darkness a hole in my gutters and knowing as we travelled closer to the chan- that there was equally as much water nel markers. The waves washed upon flooding into the cockpit of my kayak us rhythmically creating an additional as there was pouring over my veranda awareness that they were coming pathways. Early start in Sandringham — Photo: BFL from a different direction, opposing It was also my very first Red Eye the gentle rocking waves we had been paddle in the Winter, and hence in The group gathered to receive the paddling through. the dark. I was well fitted out with briefing from the leader then headed Finally we reached the beacon and lights, reflectors and all of the things into the water near the yacht club. We stopped for a short break. The morn- to keep me safe but I was secretly be- launched and paddled as a tight pod ing light started to peer through the yond nervous and the teeth chattering out into the bay. I was immediately clouds, the breeze dropped and the vi- had more to do with adrenalin than aware of the blackness around us, the sion of the city across the bay seemed

c Victorian Sea Kayak Club – http://vskc.org.au 22 SeaTrek 86 Day Trips and Overnighters surreal with the city lights still on and Peter had a play around and the smoking stacks belching steam through the base supports at the bea- from the factories nearby. con. He asked could we identify where we had to aim for for our re- turn trip, and taught us the impor- tance of finding a focal point on the horizon for our orientation. So, once the point was identified we headed back, the sun was trying its hardest to peek through, the wind had dropped and water had smoothed to a gentle undulation. Good con- versation, opportunities to listen and learn were given freely, as promises of hot coffee and maybe, maybe a few And as a final crowd pleaser a self-rescue in rolls or rescues near the shore, and style — Photo: BFL before we know we were back at the shore, soon to reminisce on a superb Finally we reached the beacon — Photo: morning that was sensory, surreal and BFL worth every second.

The Melbourne city skyline rising like a soft silhouette

Ben Flora A Journey in the West — Altona to Werribee South

Altona to Werribee South. 24 July. Dis- the right gear, and making sure you’re tance ca 20km. Participants: Ben F (Mi- not forgetting a paddle or your keys. rage 530); Helmut H (Epic 16x), James Ever done a car shuffle? The Altona To sort this out there was a flock of B (Mirage 580); Joe A (Current Designs th emails flying around the night before Sirocco); Kate A (Mirage 530); Keith R to Werribee South paddle on the 24 July was just that. the paddle, discussing such details as: (Valley Aquanout) Richard R, trip leader which cars were going where based (Taran), Wim B (P&H Cetus). — All photos It can certainly get a little tricky! on who was coming, whose car could by author. The author likes to thank James Between making sure you take the transport two kayaks, and who had Balnaves for his input to this trip report. right cars, to the right location, with

c Victorian Sea Kayak Club – http://vskc.org.au 23 SeaTrek 86 Day Trips and Overnighters managed to volunteer a kindly soul with a gentle breeze pushing us all to collect them. In the end I had to the way down. Over my left shoulder leave this one to the experts and it all was the bay with the Melbourne city turned out well. skyline rising like a soft silhouette. It With eight paddlers in attendance looked very different from this angle. the plan would be to take four cars I also noticed that the shipping lane to Werribee South and drive one back was much closer to this side of the to our starting point in Altona. Wim’s bay as three large ships were head- partner had graciously agreed to meet ing to the Port of Melbourne. After us at the end of our paddle and com- about an hour’s paddling we pulled plete the necessary logistics to handle up to a beach and took off inland to all of the Kayaks. explore the Point Cook Homestead. The morning of the paddle This 1860’s bluestone cottage used to dawned clear, calm, and. . . COLD!! I have a coffee shop in it at one time, arrived at Altona to see seven kayak- however we were sadly informed that Sea kayakers in their Sunday Best ... ers offloading their boats on the beach this fine establishment had closed its at the southern side of Altona, and doors. The site and grounds looked once all were present and accounted a little run down now, but were still for the car shuffle was executed as worth the look. Curiously, there was planned. Some volunteers stayed a gate standing alone in a garden with the kayaks (and delegated two obviously once flanked with a fence of their number to mount an expedi- but now standing alone as though not tion in search of coffee) as the rest of quite knowing what to do with itself. us jumped in our cars and headed to Werribee South. I always like the sense of adven- ture when paddling in a new location. During the car shuffle it was evident that this side of the bay was very flat as we drove by what seemed to be many market garden farms. The soil . . . trying to blend in on their visit to the in this area is a remarkable dark red homestead brown and looked very rich and invit- ing, hopefully just like the upcom- As time was beginning to press, ing 19km paddle from Altona to Wer- thanks to the forecast rising winds ribee south. About 20 minutes later getting closer, we jumped back in we were back and getting our kayaks our boats and continued along the ready for the paddle. planned route. It was then that the As the forecast for the wind was Landing at the homestead wind picked up making things much a NNW wind picking up 15 to 20 more interesting for the next stage of knots by 2pm, Richard R moved the the paddle. We rounded the point paddle forward an hour and be on into the Point Cooke Marine Sanc- the water by 9am to increase our tuary and caught sight of the Wer- chances of avoiding this wind by get- ribee South ferry point, however due ting to our destination a little earlier. to the conditions we pushed our way Though you can never perfectly pick closer to shore through a stiff head- the weather! The NNW also meant wind and into the lee. This presented that we would be paddling with an some of our newer paddlers with offshore wind. So ideally we needed quite a challenge, which they handled to stick close to the shore as possi- well and overcame with some help ble to avoid the interesting conditions and much encouragement from the further out. more experienced members. Contin- The bay was very flat and the wind uing along the shoreline we made our below 5 knots as we set out on our way down under the seaplane jetty Journey in the West. I thought to my- and into Campbells cove, where we self this is going to be a nice paddle, Lonely gate passed about 5 or 6 people fishing

c Victorian Sea Kayak Club – http://vskc.org.au 24 SeaTrek 86 Day Trips and Overnighters for yabbies in the shallows. It’s quite A peaceful start, a mini land adven- uncanny how these people look like ture, a windy headwind to get back something else in the distance. Per- close to the shore and a few following haps a buoy or post, or even some- sea downwind glides. Not to mention thing more sinister such a large rock. the enormous Big Breakfast that I had As we headed towards Werribee as we finished of the day with a coffee South we passed the RAF air base and and calories back in Altona. It was all a series of little fibro holiday houses. smiles at this point as we looked back This side of the bay is very much on the now-finished Journey. less developed when compared to the eastern shores. There is a nest of new houses at the ferry port, which got me wondering “What is this place going to look like in another 10 years?” ... going to look in 10 years?

Nearing our destination, a large catamaran passed us which surprised me but then I realised it was in fact the new ferry that has been in the news recently. It was here when things started to get fun. With a stronger wind behind us we were able to catch the occasional ride and a few “yea has” were heard as our boats slipped forward in the glide. Altona to Werribee — plot courtesy of Then finally we turned the last Richard R point and headed for the cars at the car park. All in all it ended up being a What is this place ... paddle with a little bit of everything.

c Victorian Sea Kayak Club – http://vskc.org.au 25 SeaTrek 86 Day Trips and Overnighters

Nooramunga transit

Richard Rawling Nooramunga Marine Park — The Full Monty Paddle

Paddlers: Duck Point in Corner Inlet marks the through areas that dry at low tide, • Richard R — Rockpool Taran (no western end and McLoughlins Beach and to do so in the middle of each sails but with wing paddle). marks the eastern end. Between these days’ paddling • Steve C — Valley Aquanaut (sails points is some 70 km of fantastic pad- • We knew we could do it in 2 days, but without wing paddle) dling (ie in a ‘straight’ line). but decided to do it over 3 to give us It has long been a goal of mine to This paddle requires careful plan- more time to soak up new sights, es- paddle the full length of this fantas- ning because if you get and pecially east of Port Albert • tic paddling location. I have paddled weather wrong then you are poten- Sails or a fast boat was required, we many parts of it over the years includ- tially facing strong currents, standing wanted to average > ˜6 kmh ing Corner Inlet, Snake Island & sur- waves, sandbanks and a guilt com- • We were prepared to paddle up to rounds. Upon mentioning this plan to plex from crushing hundreds of small 35 kms on Day 1 to find camp Steve Collins it became clear that he crabs. In the lead up to the paddle • We were unsure of camping spots too shared the goal to have a crack at we decided on the following planning east of Port Albert, so we needed time this paddle. So it was on! requirements: to source these Nooramunga Marine Park is a vast • We would run it as a private pad- • We knew that anything over 15 Kts area of sand barrier islands, inlets, dle because we were not sure what we pushing against tidal flows in Corner tidal flows and mangroves some 250 would be up against and we needed Inlet would leave us quite exposed kms east of Melbourne. It is where to be confident in our ability to deal given we faced a 20 km open cross- the VSKC often heads for extended with anything thrown at us ing kayak camping trips and it is the gate- • We wanted high tides around the • We needed a very long car shuffle or way to the east coast of Wilsons Prom. middle of the day so we could get assistance with drop off and pick up

c Victorian Sea Kayak Club – http://vskc.org.au 26 SeaTrek 86 Day Trips and Overnighters

We settled on target dates of 2-4 Au- land and then into Dog Channel, hav- we thought the tide had turned, but gust (HW at Port Welshpool ranged ing lunch at Rescue Island. We had realised it was still incoming! Once from 11.58 to 14.11 Hrs and ˜2.5m). to get through this area on HW be- we turned into the main south–north The wind forecast we had for 2 Au- cause there is extensive drying at LW. channel we flew along and landed gust was poor, pushing 20 Kts SW, So we scuttled past Kate Kearney En- next to the jetty (13.6 kms paddling). but we could see better weather if trance (which was narrow). I had a High fives and smiles ended a really we started on 3 August. This meant mapping GPS with channels marked, great paddle. pushing the paddle out by one day, but following the channel markers in There is a nice grassed area next which led to HW at 15.10 on the last situ is your best bet here. Sand banks to the pier, fresh running water and day, which was starting to get too late were appearing before our eyes and picnic tables. Do not arrive here at frankly. we did not want to have to carry the LW though! We were a tad peck- Sue C kindly offered to take us boats too far. So we headed further ish so a hot drink and snack was down to the starting point at Duck east trying to spy a reasonable camp most welcome. There are no shops Point, and even more kindly agreed to spot which we found south of Manns in McLoughlins Beach. After an hour pick us up at McLoughlins at the end Beach (west of Shoal Inlet Entrance), or so Sue kindly picked us up and we (and straight after her nursing shift and out on the barrier island (26.7 headed back to Meeniyan. It was as finished — thanks Sue!) kms paddled). This is an area where we drove back that we both realised We flew across Corner Inlet at trolley wheels would be a good thing just how far we had paddled when nearly 7 kmh on a bearing of 50 M to have! you drove it on land. The overall pad- with a 12-14 Kt SW breeze behind us. After a cold but still night we dle was a tad under 70 kms as ex- After 18 kms we hit the start of the awoke to lovely sunshine, albeit with pected. Swashway between Snake and Little sand banks as far as the eye could see. So, a few tips for this great pad- Snake Island, bang on high tide as So we went for a walk over the dunes dle: planned. We could have gone via Ben- to the remote surf beach for a look. • Competent Grade 1 paddlers can do nison and Granite Islands, but that is We did not push off from here till late the trip provided you are willing to 7 kms longer and is only warranted morning, underscoring why having a paddle 30+ kms if needed in one ses- if trying to pick your way defensively slightly earlier tide cycle than we did sion and can sustain > 6 kmh. in gnarly conditions. We had lunch is prudent. We got down to Shoal In- • Watch conditions on Corner Inlet as at the Swashway Jetty (22 kms) and let Entrance, but not until Steve de- it can get very choppy, and there is po- then decided to head for the Gulf viantly kept heading for mud banks tential for significant wind on tide. Camp where we knew we could get a out in front. When I caught up he • Do it in 2 days if you want, but 3 fire going (28.9 kms paddled). It was was muttering something about the days is far more enjoyable. pretty cold overnight and we faced a usefulness of maps and GPS’! The en- • Allow sufficient time for car shuf- reasonable carry of the boats on the trance was ripping in by the time we fling (if you have to do that). morning of Day 2 as the tide came up got there and we had to work hard • HW in middle of day is best to avoid (which is why we stopped here and before we found a channel going in dry areas. did not go further East where the LW the direction of the flow. I got up to • Trolleys and sails highly recom- carry distances are even greater). 13 kmh paddling here. Lesson — do mended. Unbelievably for this time of year, not go near this narrow entrance on • the slow high moving over Victoria a strong out going tide. Once clear Be prepared with good marine spawned an annoying 12 Kt SE head of this we made our way towards St charts and topo maps, and ideally a wind on Day 2. We also had to paddle Margaret Island, which is huge. There mapping GPS. • against an incoming tide in what can is great paddling in here but tide plan- Follow channel markers east of Port be a fast flowing area. Oh well, heads ning is critical because there are sand Albert Channel. down and into it. We headed out banks everywhere. There is an unin- • Take care with outgoing tidal flows to Port Albert entrance on the south spiring Parks campground on this is- at Shoal Inlet Entrance side of Sunday and Drum Islands. We land but we could not find it with- • Research your camping spots. checked out the great VSKC Easter out clearer location instructions. As • Take fresh water as there is none camping spot at the end of Snake Is- we approached McLoughlins Beach along the paddle, other than at the land on the way, and then paddled to we started to experience very strong Jetty (but it is tank water of unknown get the inflow north in the Port Albert tidal back flow in the split channel purity). channel. We headed down to Horn Is- that leads up to the town. Initially

c Victorian Sea Kayak Club – http://vskc.org.au 27 SeaTrek 86 Day Trips and Overnighters

Nooramunga National Park — The Full Monty — By Richard Rawling

c Victorian Sea Kayak Club – http://vskc.org.au 28 SeaTrek 86 Club Life

Introductions — Photo: Sea Trek

Joe and Kate Alberico Sorrento — Level 1 Assessment Day

Sorrento’s bay beach, another scenic location and nicely sheltered from the westerly wind. The assessment kicked off with in- troductions/ briefing from the asses- sors. A program of stretching exer- cises was entertainingly led by VSKC’s President Bob Fergie. It was pleas- ing to see some considerably younger paddlers attending and I’m sure they found the stretches refreshing. The twinge in my back reminded me that I should probably do this sort of thing more often. Searching our memory banks ...... and beyond — Photos: KA

Signing up in early May for VSKC’s During the drive to Sorrento, level 1 assessment day seemed a good Kate and I swapped a few of the idea at the time. However, as 29 May finer points of kayak navigation, red approached, the 15◦C Port Phillip Bay and green channel markers, cardi- water temperature brought to mind nal marks, keeping to the right of the old adage “he/she who bathes in the channel etc., not seriously think- May, will soon lie in clay” The 15– ing any of this advanced knowledge 20 knot westerly wind forecast for the would be needed on the day. Sure 29th also had me wondering whether enough, a wad of quiz questionnaires this newbie sea kayaker would even was circulated, which had us search- get his boat off the Canadian Bay ing our memory banks. beach, let alone demonstrate basic For the on-water skills assessment level paddling skills (only speaking we were divided into groups amongst for myself here). Fortunately, our or- Maintaining that brace position — the instructors Terry B, Robin B and Bob ganisers kindly shifted the event to black art of staying upright, in surf ... F, assisted by senior club members

c Victorian Sea Kayak Club – http://vskc.org.au 29 SeaTrek 86 Club Life

Helmut H, Richard R and Peter S. Kate while towing a kayak reminded us those of us attending on the day. and I joined Terry’s group with Hel- why VSKC emphasises “dress for im- mut providing support and encour- mersion” when advertising club trips. agement. Terry’s tuition and demon- Running the assessment in this cooler stration of each skill was very helpful time of the year provided a valuable to us and made the assessment feel added lesson in what to expect when more like an extended coaching ses- “bathing” in cooler temperatures. sion. As an added bonus, Terry had The Level 1 assessment day gave each of us test our low support brace us a good deal of valuable skills against his ’surf simulator’. Tow lines coaching as well as the chance to have attached to the bow and stern of the some or all of the Level 1 skills signed kayak were handed to a team of pad- off. It was an extremely worthwhile dlers standing on shore, who would event and we would recommend this run up the beach, giving the boat a to all new members. Thank you to rapid sideways tow. The only way to the organisers, instructors and assis- stay in the boat was to maintain that tants, who generously devoted a large brace position, leaning in to the simu- chunk of their weekend and likely a lated wave. good deal of preparation time before- The rescue exercise and swim hand, for the benefit of the club and

Kate Alberico Snake Island Queen’s Birthday Weekend 2016

All photos by Kate and Joe Alberico – Ed. 20+ knots all day, with 1.5–2 me- and fish and chips and return at one tre waves in Corner Inlet according o’clock by which time the wind should to the BOM). Plan A, to paddle from have moderated, and then paddle to It was a cold wet windy morning that here to the Cattlemen’s Huts, leav- a closer camp at the Swashway jetty, saw 15 Snake Island expeditioners at ing now, was under review. To an some 5 km away, for our first night. 8:30 am, huddled under the awning ungraded paddler, this wasn’t good By one o’clock everybody was back of the Port Welshpool general store. news. However, Steve C offered Plans at Port Welshpool and loading up the We could see the forecast gale (it B and C and the group selected Plan boats. Looking at the conditions I had arrived and was here to stay at B, adjourn to Port Albert for coffee wondered if I was committing to more

c Victorian Sea Kayak Club – http://vskc.org.au 30 SeaTrek 86 Club Life wave action and wind (25 knots) than stroke ‘right wrist over the left knee, We returned for cups of tea and I was capable of managing as a novice left wrist over the right knee, straight some serious dinner eating. The sea kayaker. Terry B reassured me arm coming back’. The paddle along two Nicks made wonderful fires and and Joe that we could make the cross- the west shore of Snake Island was the food, warmth, conversation, wine ing. Joe and I had been in Terry and very pleasant with views of Wilsons and card games made for a convivial Helmut’s group for the recent level Prom close by. I nearly went over evening. one training and assessment day, so once. Richard R gave me more de- they had a good understanding of our tailed instruction on bracing. Steve C skills. Once on the water and in my grinning happily, told me to smile. boat at the shore bobbing in the small We arrived in time for lunch af- waves while the rain fell, Richard R ter carrying all our gear in large bags quietly told me that I should remem- to the Snake Island Cattlemen’s huts. ber to brace. I thought this was good What a delightful surprise. A collec- advice and knew that I did not know tion of huts, a large room for sleeping, how to do it, not quickly enough for it a large room for eating with an open to be of any benefit. fireplace and a potbelly stove, lovely Paddling south with the waves verandas, comfortable old armchairs coming over the beam and then east and couches, and flushing toilets and with the waves following I rose and running water. Lots of grass to pitch fell in waves bigger than I had been the tents on with views of deer, kan- in before. I was not a happy pad- garoos and birds. dler. I was alone in mountainous seas That afternoon some of us went that were threatening to capsize me for a walk on Snake Island. We The next morning Terry B, Sarah — or at least that’s how it seemed saw beautiful sheoaks, banksias, grass B and Tony C left early as they contin- to me. The waves decreased in size trees and eucalypts. Martin and ued on to Johnny Souey Cove for an as we rounded the east end of Lit- Michael shared their love and knowl- extended paddling trip. The rest of us tle Snake Island and paddled up to- edge of the plants. had a lovely slow morning at the huts wards the Swashway jetty for our first enjoying the winter sunshine before night’s camp on the Snake Island side leaving around 11am to paddle into of the channel separating the two is- the wind across to the Prom and have lands. lunch on sun warmed granite boul- Everyone worked together to lift ders. The open water crossing back the loaded boats up onto the small towards Port Welshpool had me rat- embankment above the high tide tled and Richard R and Bob F kindly level. The small campground was paddled nearby. Steve C cunningly ar- nestled in behind the tea trees, shel- ranged for the tide to sweep us back tered and perfect for our tents. It to Port Welshpool in good time. Our rained intermittently and some set up return paddle was completed in glori- their kitchens under a shelter and oth- ous afternoon sunshine. The water as ers gathered around the campfire that we pulled up was so calm that I could had been built by some of our pad- hardly believe the tempest it had been dlers. when we started. The next morning getting ready to Back on dry land I can say that go, we saw kangaroos on the beach I enjoyed the trip tremendously and just near our camp site. We were congratulate Steve C on a well–led intrigued to see one jump into the trip. A big thank-you to all the sea- water until it could jump no more soned paddlers who gave their advice and then swim across the channel to and time, and to everyone for their neighbouring Little Snake Island. The lovely company. wind had moderated but was still a westerly and so the first leg of the paddle was into a headwind through the Swashway. I fell to the rear of the group. Sarah B advised me to put my paddle in further forward near my toes to get more power and I was summoned by Terry B to the front, to receive a useful refresher in forward On Snake Island c Victorian Sea Kayak Club – http://vskc.org.au 31 SeaTrek 86 Club Life

Snake Islanders — By Ben Flora

c Victorian Sea Kayak Club – http://vskc.org.au 32