THE MAGAZINE OF THE NSW SEA KAYAK CLUB ISSUE 107 | APRIL 2018

THe final coast boast | Old Sea Dog | Kayak Fests| Incident at Wattamolla mid‑north coast | Hobart to Bicheno | Canada | Bass Strait 2

This page:You can take the boy off the farm...Campbell Tiley gets a tow from his fellow paddlers (Image - Nick Blacklock) Cover: Jen Harrison admires the cliffs on the East Coast of Tasmania (Image - Les Allen) CONTENTS NSW Sea Kayak Club Inc. From the President’s Deck 3 PO BOX R1302, ROYAL EXCHANGE NSW 1225 From the Editor’s Desk 3 Training Coordinator Update 4 The NSWSKC is a voluntary organisation run by members who give their time Old Sea Dog at 85 5 freely to the club. Membership is offered yearly. Please see the website for details and application. www.nswseakayaker.asn.au All new NSWSKC members 6 Ocean Guardians 7 PRESIDENT: TRIPS CONVENOR: Tony Murphy Selim Tezcan KASK Kayakfest 8 [email protected] [email protected] WA Kayak Fest 10 Lake Tekapo Double Drowing 12 VICE PRESIDENT: ROCK ’N ROLL COORDINATOR: Neil Duffy Simon Swifte Wattamolla incident 14 [email protected] [email protected] Garmin inReach 15 The Coast Boast 17 SECRETARY/TREASURER: INTERNET COORDINATOR: Paul Thomas Mark Wingrave Club Trips [email protected] [email protected] Batemans Bay Explorer 20 TRAINING COORDINATOR: EDITOR: Bouncing off Broughton 22 Megan Pryke Ruby Ardren Swallow Rock to Kurnell 24 [email protected] [email protected]

Private Trips Contributions yes please! Salt the magazine of the NSW Sea Kayak Club is published three to four times a Cockatoo Island 26 year by the NSW Sea Kayak Club. The NSWSKC welcomes articles relating to sea kayaking for inclusion in the Club’s magazine and website. Publication in the magazine and/or website is at the sole discretion Saltiest Submission 28 of the editor. All articles submitted are subject to review by the editor who reserves the right to reject or Basin Basecamp 29 edit material. Please email contributions as Microsoft Word or text files. Images need to be supplied at the highest possible resolution. All material is copyright. The contributor retains underlying intellectual property Sea Kayak across Bass Strait 32 rights in the contribution however the contributor grants the club a global perpetual all-media license to The Hidden Jewel 36 publish the contribution in club communications, including in print and digitally. Reproduction in whole or part is strictly forbidden without written permission from the editor, author or photographer. Advertisers Me-Mel 41 must adhere to legal requirements and undertake to indemnify NSWSKC against any consequences Limeburners to Khappinghat 42 arising out of their advertisements. For further information contact the editor. NZ International Kayak Week 44 All views expressed in this magazine are those of the authors and are not necessarily those of the NSWSKC. A German Adrift 46 IMPORTANT: Please review the Paddler Safety, Required Equipment, Grading System and Club Calendar Gulf Islands - Vancouver Is 48 sections of the club website.

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paddling and the hanging around From the with a great bunch of like-minded people. I look forward to catching up with as many of you as possible President’s over those days in Currarong. We’ve had another addition to the Deck committee since the last SALT. Mark Wingrave has stepped into TONY MURPHY the Internet Coordinator role to oversee the development of our new website. Thanks Mark and welcome. It’s that time of year again. Yee ha! Speaking of the committee … there Rock ‘n’ Roll. will be positions vacant again come the AGM in July. I for one will be Okay maybe some of you are not stepping down. Have a think about quite as excited as I am. But R’n’R whether it might be time to do your really is the pinnacle of the kayak bit. Maybe have a chat to me or one club’s year. By the time you read of the other committee members at this it will already be on. Enjoy the Rock ‘n’ Roll.

From the Editor’s Desk We have the final images for RUBY ARDREN the Coast Boast competition put together by Adrian Clayton. It’s been a lot of work to manage this competition, and the contribution Rock ‘n’ Roll is such a great Adrian has made to magazine opportunity to learn from other content has been most appreciated. paddlers. Some members enjoy While on contributions, thank you so this type of experience so much much for responding to my calls for they’re willing to travel to similar articles. We always manage to pull events in other states and overseas. together a magazine in the end! Each one is run a little differently, Given how many people have so offers new experiences. A few of paddled in Tasmania this summer, these events have been covered in I’m looking forward to seeing the this issue. stories they have to share for the This issue we can also learn from a next issue, due out in July. Don’t couple of incident coverages - one forget I’m also looking for articles local and one from New Zealand. about kayaking food, good or bad! Our website ties people in knots The club secretary His scout leader just started a I was pretty shocked with how recently received positive section on knots, and Jacob’s father many knots he remembered. Haha. feedback on the club’s realized he was struggling with the Jacob and his father asked me to website: boating knots. My husband, who tell you how much of a help your was a scout many, many years ago, page was. My son has been a scout for about asked me to look up some good Thanks again for the help! a year and a half now. He has web pages to help Jacob. I came became a great leader and has across your page which had ways Marie Weaver learned so many life skills already. to tie them and was a huge help.

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Training Coordinator Update MEGAN PRYKE

Learning is a social experience. Qualifications are not received Within a group of competent sea directly as a result of completing kayakers, you find others with training. Feedback by an assessor similar goals. “My goals are my still takes place, as the objective is own, but I am not alone” is a to test existing skills and knowledge. quote that comes to mind. The The training and acquisition of skills like-minded people that I have is separated from the assessment. met via the club have assisted in To consolidate your skills it’s gaining the experience and skills important to take advantage of the to undertake adventurous trips to trips available through the club. amazing destinations, and maintain This gives you the opportunity to and build fitness while enhancing incorporate what you’ve learnt my own life experiences. Australian Canoeing Update into your skill set and apply the Congratulations to those who have new things you’ve learnt until they Many thanks to Harry Havu, attained Australian Canoeing (AC) become second nature. The club Stuart Trueman, Tony Murphy Awards. Over the last year the has a number of regular weekly trips and Rob Mercer for providing following members have obtained that provide this opportunity. Many comment and thoughts on a list these awards: thanks to trip leaders including Rob of evidence requirements that the Mercer, Owen Kimberly, Sharon club provided to AC during 2017. As with any process that involves Sea Skills Betteridge and Matt Bezzina (for those that can get out early on setting guidelines that others Paul Thomas Saturday). They assure there is a have to follow, there are inevitable Richard Hackett way to get out for a known period differences of opinion. All comments Brian Burke that members can plan around. Due were positive and provided in a Hubert Wiest to the majority of paddlers on these cooperative spirit. Barry Marshall trips being skilled, they provide safe The proposed changes included sea paddling experiences and a some increases in log book Enclosed Sea Skills chance to benefit from the collective experience and a possible move AND experience of the group. to isolate the overnight camping Enclosed Sea Guide Of note is an expedition trip, component for all AC awards. intended for the Hunter group off The draft changes also aimed Neil Gow to sort out some inconsistencies North West Tasmania that became in documentation. At this stage an expedition to other areas of AC Sea Skills can be assessed the final outcome has not been Tasmania. In the run up to this by a suitably experienced Sea fully rolled out or announced. All trip Stuart Trueman conducted Instructor. There are other sea people with Sea Skills will now be two weekend trips to ensure that skills candidates who are aiming required to renew their certification those interested in attending were for completion. A few members by submitting an updated log book prepared. are working towards leadership every three or five years. qualifications. It can be a process There has been rolling tuition, basic AC has also rolled out web based that depends on the availability skills and sea skills training and systems for administration. From of members and relevant leaders many sea trips conducted. Selim the 1st March 2018, the only so at times gets stymied by other and I will complete a fuller report for method of submitting log book life events and commitments. the Annual General Meeting. experience to attain or update Nonetheless, the process does If you have missed out on a trip awards is via AC Paddlelog which provide paddlers with a structure or training opportunity or have is available in a desktop and Smart that they can work towards. For trip an idea for one, let Selim (trips@ Phone / iPhone application. Trip leaders the club grading system nswseakayaker.asn.au) or Megan leaders are becoming familiar with assures that paddlers have relevant ([email protected]) using Paddlelog thus over time skills and experience. know as it may help in matching should be able to help out others The attainment of AC awards is when members are available to with completion of the log. Individual via a summative assessment. when trip leaders can put on events. trip entries can be shared.

APRIL 2018 | SALT 5 Old Sea Dog Still Paddling At 85! Some years ago, the Old OSD had a flash of inspiration: all Sea Dog (OSD) (Norm he needed was another sheet of Sanders) moved to the plywood and, voila, a kayak! The farthest reaches of OSD lives within a stone’s throw of the Brunswick River. The river bar is NSW, perilously close to treacherous and shark infested so Queensland. he paddles mostly on the river itself. Why not a lightweight river kayak? Those with long memories would He set a goal of 15 kg all up and set recall that he was President of to work. the NSWSKC for eons and wrote almost as many contributions to the It was too long for the garage, so “Newsletter” as Dave Winkworth. the OSD built a jig in a hangar The weight? 15.4 kg! The craft He was also the inventor of the at Tyagarah Airport where he is (Kaynoo? Canak?) is very quick Innuit Classic and the ubiquitous Chief Flying Instructor of the Byron and a delight to paddle. A concern pop-up foredeck sail. The OSD Gliding Club. Airplanes are awkward is the lack of freeboard and deck was often the victim of scurrilous shapes to store, with long wings when being harassed by drunken character assassination at the and fuselages. This leaves lots of Queenslanders in tinnies who have hands of Fishkiller (aka Mark space in between planes. There no idea of the maritime rules of Pearson) in his Flotsam pieces. The was much dark muttering from the the road. The OSD hasn’t been NSWSKC generously granted the Committee about a BOAT in the swamped yet, but is on constant OSD life membership and he still hangar but it was easily subdued lookout for nasty wakes. Since the receives the very well presented by threats of withholding flying craft is so easy to load, the OSD SALT for which he is grateful. instruction. is now paddling almost every day. The years have treated the OSD It was immediately apparent that to He is in training for the annual kindly, mostly, but hoiking his old reach the required weight, sacrifices Mullumbimby to Brunswick Heads plywood sea kayaks onto the roof of would have to be made. The deck paddling race. The OSD is highly his 2003 Subaru was getting harder was the obvious choice to go, along favoured to win in the Ancient and harder. Fate intervened in the with bulkheads. Mariner category. form of the chance discovery under The craft ended up more like a Old paddlers never die, they just the house of the plywood patterns canoe than a kayak, with laminated build lighter boats. for the 17’3” Innuit Explorer (which gunwales and two jarrah thwarts. Fishkiller still occasionally paddles). The hull was glassed on the The patterns were 1/8” plywood outside, but only taped inside on the and constituted half of the hull. The seams.

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Attention, all new NSWSKC Members!!

Neil Gow has some advice kayaking videos forever, but getting the best campsites near the dunny for new members of the on the water with real people is the block! best solution for most of us. So, get club. Use the Club website – especially on the water – even if it’s a bit cold, the basic strokes videos. I still Congratulations on joining the or wet or you are a bit tired. Getting find these useful to remind myself NSW Sea Kayak Club. In years to out there will give you an energy about correct technique. And if you come you may reflect that it was boost every time! You will finish the have a birthday coming up, that one of the best decisions of your day tired but always happy you did better kayak will be advertised in life! It was certainly one of my best it, because something different will the Offers area or the links at the decisions. Since 2012 the Club have happened out there, and you website will take you to suppliers to has provided me with experiences will have learned something…every flaunt their wares before you! Check and knowledge and friendships time! for trips and training and make early that I believe would not have been You have received a Paddler’s decisions, as activities soon fill up! otherwise gained. BUT, it has been Log Book on joining. Remember a path that was neither always clear to complete it. It is a valuable Don’t just paddle, but work nor direct. And those reservations document, which enables you to on techniques and seek new are amplified when you are not part reflect on your experience and experiences and try to do a bit more of the Sydney Push! So, I hope my becomes more important as you and do it better than last time! Try musings will make things easier for pursue accreditation. You may to understand what your kayak and new members to get where they possibly seek a role greater than the sea and weather conditions are want to go…or not! just a paddler and decide to pass doing. For example, why does your kayak turn upwind when there is a I have found the Club quite on your knowledge and skills to the wind on the beam? Or why does impersonal, unless you can get next generation of new members. it broach in a following sea? And involved in regular and frequent Go to the annual Rock ‘n’ Roll more importantly what can you do trips and training sessions. So get event. I have never heard of anyone about these things to save energy involved. Go and do it, because leaving early because they were and effort? Ask questions of your the Club will not come to you. But not happy with the offerings – kayaking companions. Read stuff. once you break the ice you will trips, training, lectures, meeting Think about what is happening. Talk meet like-minded paddlers who will accomplished paddlers, exchanging about it. Keep puzzling. show you stuff. And a new member experiences and catching up needs to learn a lot of stuff! Kayak with paddlers from other parts. Become a weather nerd. Buy a and paddle characteristics, weather, Register early because there are barometer and look at it each day all sorts of paddle strokes, rescues, limits to registration numbers - the and see which way it is shifting towing, navigation etc etc. You can leader:paddler safety ratios for trips in relation to the passage of low sit at home and watch Youtube sea come into play! Early registrants get and high pressures systems. Note how quickly or slowly the changes occur. Look upat the sky and identify clouds and their movements and how this links in with your barometer readings. Explore the Bureau of Meteorology website and the weather apps which feed off it. Know where to find the forecasts – both land and marine - and relate them to the current weather map and the four day forecast weather maps. Talk to people at the beach – especially fishermen, boaties and surfers. They should know a lot about the interaction between Join club trips - this one was on the the weather and the sea and local Hawkesbury River to Lion Island tides and rips. And remember that (Image - Ruby Ardren) challenging and even dangerous

APRIL 2018 | SALT 7 conditions can occur also on inland Safe trip planning and execution, Buy a paddle float. If you don’t have waterways (rivers and lakes), so tips on equipment (discussions on a paddling buddy readily available check the weather before kayaking the best towing arrangement have (or you have bad breath!) your paddle float can be your best friend. there too. seen the consumption of many When you are learning to brace and bottles of (cheap?) red wine without Read old issues of Salt. The archive edge and roll it will save the tiring is a treasure trove of information final resolution). Trip reports also chore of having to wet exit and get and experience. Kayak design and offer the allure of new horizons back in when you go too far…and manufacture will continue to evolve, achieved by other paddlers who, not you have to go too far if you are bur the fundamentals are rock solid. long ago, were also new members! going to learn and improve. You then have a valuable piece of safety equipment to take to sea. Sea Kayakers: Finally, after you get all the basics under your belt, get out and enjoy Ocean Guardians your paddling, and at the end of a great paddling day, consider Tom Cox reminds us that PROPOSAL where you might be in the Club in sea kayakers are natural Let us recognise our role as ocean a few years. Maybe a sea guide, allies of the ocean and guardians. committee person, Rock ‘n’ Roll all that lives in it. Sea co-ordinator, Salt editor. It’s today’s kayakers should be I’d like us to have a discussion on new members who will keep the this theme. As a starting point for Club alive and vibrant into the advocates and activists the discussion, I propose: future. No pressure! on behalf of the marine 1. NSWSKC adds an object to its environment. constitution : to advocate for Marine debris accumulates in and act on behalf of the marine oceans, streams and on coastlines. environment. Eighty percent of marine debris 2. NSWSKC adds provisions to its is plastic. Plastics accumulate Policy Guidelines and Standard because they do not bio-degrade. Operating Procedures to support Many break down into smaller and this object. This might include smaller pieces that are ingested by adopting the principles espoused fish and birds. There are vast trash by Take3.org. On every club trip Movies: In the past couple of years vortexes in the Atlantic and Indian or training session, each member two excellent Australian films on Oceans, but the largest is the Great would take at least three pieces our marine environment have been Pacific Garbage Patch . of rubbish with them when they published. Both are available for leave the beach, waterway, or screenings and are well worth …as one who regularly picks anywhere. seeing. ‘up plastic from the sea I can tell you it is not just, or even mainly, 3. That we regularly talk about Watch A Plastic Ocean (2016) plastic shopping bags. It is also lolly ways that the NSWSKC can https://plasticoceans.org/about-film/ wrappers, plastic toys, balloons, advocate and act for the marine and Blue (2017) https://bluethefilm. plastic foam packaging, tennis balls, environment. org/ plastic bottles, small shopping bags you put loose things like nuts and oranges in at markets; incredibly even empty bait bags. Once I got a large sheet of plastic netting. At other times a great sheet of plastic matting, and a plastic soccer ball. All of these things do damage in the short term or break down into Kay McManus smaller bits and enter the water (not a member) column and do harm there. regularly picks up litter (Norm Carter, Salt Issue 100’ – Our when out Plastic Sea) kayaking

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After attending several Rock ‘n’ nap was thwarted by M dragging me off to a Rolls, Lisa McCarthy set her mind rather obscurely named ‘Boat-Body’ thingy. to investigating other similar Here we met the infamous JKA (John Kirk- events on a more international Anderson) a highly qualified instructor and assessor. This time with my ass on the grass, level. Enter the Kiwi Association of lurching ungainly from cheek to cheek (almost Sea Kayakers Kayakfest, the New literally) I discovered that I had no talent for Zealand offering of all things (sea) all this ass-wriggling. With some other no- kayaking. talent, uncoordinated and hip-inflexible new friends, we slouched over to one side, before A rushed trip home from Tassie saw Mark recovering our composure enough to join and I two days later, bleary-eyed on a flight 2018 the group on the water, to try these same to Wellington. Notoriously known as ‘Windy manoeuvres in our kayaks. Wellington’, it disappointingly did not live up to its reputation. The ever generous Kiwis Exhausted, I still managed to do full justice to magically sorted out transport and kayak both Happy Hour and Dinner (ahh...the food! issues for us, and we collectively held our The food!) We had photo comp results then breath as the weather smiled upon us for the an excellent presentation by JKA on his kayak entire weekend. guiding trips to both the Sub-Antarctic Islands and Siberia. This year’s location was held in the Ngata Sunday morning saw us listening to kayaking Domain, near Wellington. Some tents were legend Paul Caffyn telling us about his interspersed with the local sports field, so the ‘Bugger!’ moments, of which he had several occasional cricket ball required artful dodging very entertaining ones. Here I could relax, for the campers. The tents weren’t so lucky... laugh and enjoy a leisurely coffee. The A vast choice of activities by some big names ever-energetic M decided we should attend made it a real head-scratcher for us to decide ‘Rescuing Others’ next. I must admit that what to do. I was all for snoozing after a I was concerned about the frigid NZ water fulfilling breakfast (ahh..the food! The food!) temperatures and my potential immersion but M had other rather more energetic ideas. into such, but was reminded it was rescuing I soon found myself slouched in a chair, ‘Others’. Steve Flack had us all involved in an listening to David Welch discuss the merits excellent session, which saw us learn some of different types of paddles, and methods techniques not seen before and thinking of using them efficiently. A pleasant, gentle outside the box. And I stayed dry...nice. introduction to the day. After lunch, it was all over for us; we packed Next, M thought to challenge me with some up and got shipped out to our next adventure... instruction from the Mana Kayak Racing Club. International Kayak Week 2018. Stay tuned. Despite many hours of strenuous training Thanks to the many people who helped us, in and becoming obsessed with my forward particular Noel and Shaun. stroke, one thing was clear...I was still too slow. My feeble attempts to out-pace M (or A group learn how to improve their forward to even keep up) inspired me to take up this stroke, while in the backgorund the Mana challenge. Brian Grace has coached many Coastguard practice rescuing kayakers Olympian kayakers, but I’m not sure what he thought of us motley lot. Using a kind tone, encouragement and some constructive criticism, we slowly improved. By the end of the session, the occasional smile began to replace the strained brow-furrowing as I paddled by him for my next critique. After lunch (ahh...the food! The food!) my attempt to sneak

KASK Kayakfest off quietly for a much-needed

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Caoimhin and Ruby rocks, after he realised we were Their tactic of sliding the AGM into Ardren engaged in a little unlikely to make contact. their annual gathering seemed quite successful in gaining more than a espionage over the first Caoimhin provided a ‘gentle quorum of attendees, and should weekend in March. introduction to rock gardening’ (a perhaps be something that our club la Adrian Clayton), and found a considers, given the generally poor We headed to the KASK Kayakfest successful tactic was to take away at Ngati Toa Domain just north of attendance at recent SKC AGMs. the Kiwi’s rudders, which left them Wellington, intent on sabotaging completely without control and gave The club successfully reduced their paddlers and picking up useful us time to get away for some more the load on the on-water leaders information for our own evil ends. sleuthing. by providing an extensive range We were nearly exposed when of land-based workshops and we ran into Mark Dabbs and Lisa I successfully engaged with my presentations on subjects ranging McCarthy as we were setting up contact, Paul Caffyn, with whom I from technical discussions of how to our tent, the pair continuing to work had I had been communicating with respond to medical situations and hard on their bucket list of paddling over the email for some time. We use hand signals, to trip reports on destinations. We were almost engaged in some horse trading, Antarctica and Greenland. Kayakers completely confounded when we resulting in a couple of articles that participated in on-water sessions ran into David Winkworth, who was I’ve shared with the members of our that focused on manoeuvring, in New Zealand to establish Winky’s organisation in this issue. Ensure gaining speed, rolling, and dealing Workshop. that this information remains under with difficult situations and rescues. wraps. We were hoping that the weather It was noted that development of New Zealand and Wellington are The paddlers of New Zealand are these skills puts them in a strong famous for would provide some only brought together once a year, position, which should be monitored sort of cover for our operations, so Kayakfest is the occasion on closely. but it wasn’t to be – the entire which they conduct their AGM. I We found their speaker interesting weekend was calm and sunny quietly remained in the back corner and managed to convince him to (hot even) with no swell. We had after breakfast, not attracting any act as a double agent and provide to disguise our manoeuvres with a attention and listening in on their similar information to our side. He couple of kayaking trips, including affairs. Intelligence revealed that plays an excellent cover by insulting a circumnavigation of Mana Island Kayakfest is moving to an affair Australians at every opportunity. We that had a glorious range of bird life held every two years, and the next hope you enjoy his presentation at on the west coast of the island. The event will definitely be of some the Rock ‘n’ Roll dinner. following day we were unable to find interest. We may only be allowed We expect there will be some our agent on the ground, who was to attend if we have a counter-offer counter-espionage operations in supposed to meet us in amongst of training and fit the strict quota response to our visit, so keep an the towering rock gardens along the for Australians, as they seem to be eye out for suspicious looking Kiwis eastern side of the channel inside fearful that we’ll take over the joint at future events, especially the ones the island. We investigated the area if we appear in too great a number asking you to lift your rudder. pretty thoroughly, just to make sure. (perhaps not aided by Caoimhin’s Caoimhin left a note on one of the efforts to take away their rudders). Left: David Winkworth in Winky’s Workshop, Right: Caoimhin searching for his contact amongst the rock gardens (Images - Ruby Ardren)

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2018 WA Sea Kayak Fest

Nerissa Worwood (Ex- My Sea Skills based pod included Smithson. Starting out from nearby Sydneysider, Current many Club stalwarts, as well as the Dunsborough, we headed out to Sandgroper) headed to Executive Officer of Paddle WA, some rare seagrass beds, which Busselton for the 7th Rosalie Evans and the owner of also serve as the fish nurseries of annual Western Australian local kayak tour company, Water Geographe Bay. We took water Wanderers, Leonie Cockman. samples from this area as well as Sea Kayak Fest 2018, held These two ladies capably and from around the popular tourist from the 16-19 February. elegantly outstripping the team in boat ramp to compare for levels their double kayak! of nitrogen and other pollutants, Not exclusively the domain of the as well as comparing the general Sea Kayak Club of WA, an invitation After a picturesque paddle, we all health of the sea grasses in this was extended to paddlers from headed back for a team barbecue area. To have the expertise of other local Perth Clubs to come and and then settled in for the first Ann along was amazing, and her enjoy the program with a sit in style keynote speaker of the weekend, passion for the subject is evident. kayak being the only requirement. the previous past president of the A registration of approximately NSWSKC Dave Winkworth. His The afternoon sessions included; 70 paddlers was divided up into presentation of “How to wrestle a How to craft your Own Greenland “pods” which was made up of a Pod crocodile and other useful skills” paddle by Paul Cooper (I may have Leader, a Sea Leader and seven was incredibly entertaining as cheated and bought one from him!), paddlers. Similar abilities and skill he recounted a croc attack on Simple Dehydrating for Expeditions levels were grouped together. On his friend Arunas Pilka on the tip by Sandy Robson (amazing the Friday afternoon after arrival, of Cape York, and the following Kangaroo Bolognaise for all to registration and an official welcome, celebrity that ensued. Dave is a sample), Geoff Paull’s Getting your the pods set off from the beach very entertaining speaker, and I’m Psychology Right on the Water, and adjacent to the campsite for a sure left many people pondering a Cameron Crowe from Leave No twilight “get to know you” paddle. trip up north. Trace Australia on more tips on how to Paddle Lightly. The site of Camp Grace (owned The theme of the Festival was by the Anglican Church) contains “Paddle Lightly”, so in all areas The evening speaker for Saturday a number of dormitory style cabins of camping, cooking, eating, night all the way from across the as well as camping areas, a well- travelling etc we were all asked to ditch was Paul Caffyn. His list of appointed camp kitchen, barbecues keep the environment in mind. In achievements in kayaking are and a hall. Plenty of trees and only keeping with the theme, the paddle nothing short of incredible, he is a few metres from a wide beach that I chose to do on Saturday a legend with few peers, but likely access to Geographe Bay, makes it was Paddling with Eco-Purpose, best known for being the first to an ideal location for the event. Exploring Cape Ecology with Dr Ann kayak around Australia. His keynote

APRIL 2018 | SALT 11 was specifically on paddling the also pleased to win a copy of his With only about a kilometre back coast of Greenland. A screen was book “Three Rivers to Tuktoyaktuk”. to our cars, there was a bit of set up outdoors and we all pulled Terry’s Paddle Sports business commotion in the water and next up a camp chair to hear his tales Canoeing Down Under is well thing a snake reared up from the over a beer or two. Many anecdotes known to Perth Paddlers, and Terry water entwined with another snake and near escapes (with lots of is a life member of both Paddle WA at the back of Bruce’s kayak about bears!), Paul is a witty Kiwi who and Ascot Kayak Club (the largest two metres from the riverbank. has travelled the world and will kayak club in Perth). They untwined, and one hit the continue to do so, I suspect until deck just behind Bruce. They were the last of his days. I am happy to After checkout Monday morning, dugites, (Western Browns) and have secured a copy of his book quite a few paddlers headed the most dangerous snake in WA. “The Dreamtime Voyage”, to see straight home on a rising wind Luckily both snakes slithered off how his experience around Australia forecast, but myself and three up into the reeds but it did leave compared with that of Freya others; fellow Scout Leader Bruce us all reflecting that even the most Hoffmeister in “Fearless” and Stuart Pilgrim, Club President Callan Gault benign seeming situations have the Trueman in “All the Way Round”. and event organiser and 2017 potential to go south very quickly Australian Geographic Adventurer and that perhaps the first aid kits Later that night I was happy to win of the Year Sandy Robson decided and communications were always a prize in the photo competition to head on over to the mouth of worth that extra trip back to the car! with some amazing work on display. Margaret River to paddle there. Pictures from around the state and Having enjoyed a few of the even internationally certainly had There would be few groups more NSW Rock ‘n’ Rolls, I have to everyone planning their bucket lists. qualified in first aid and rescue than say that the WA Sea Kayak Fest these three. We carried out kayaks stacked up very well in terms of The following morning was up again down some steep steps to the put organisation and programming. for an early session of yoga by in, and as we were on flat water Massive thanks to Sandy Robson the lovely Mel, wife of one of our and only going a few kilometres and her Committee, who did such Sea Leaders and Club Secretary, upstream to look at some historic a great job. If any East Coasters Paul Browne. The yoga helped me ruins, we decided to forego the First were thinking of a WA holiday, it enormously; I certainly experienced would be well worth timing it around Aid and communications gear and a lot less tiredness during the day’s the February Kayak Festival and travel light. It was a lovely paddle paddling and much better torso making the most of the paddling looking at the ruins of Wallcliffe rotation technique. opportunities as well. House, a manor home established Following Yoga I joined Paul’s by the Bussell family after which paddle, which was a Busselton Left to right: Nerissa was excited to Bussellton was named, and meet Paul Caffyn; Sandy Robson gives Jetty Explorer. We paddled across destroyed in a bushfire in 2011. some tips on dehydrating food the bay, out the length of the jetty (approx. 2km), then rafted up in small groups and jumped out for some snorkelling and free diving. The fish were noticeably bigger and the colourful corals were just beautiful. The afternoon sessions included a Show ‘n’ Tell for Paddler inventions (including some homemade kayaks), Creative Visualisation and Expedition Planning from Paul Caffyn, The Great Australian Bight Incident from Dave Winkworth, Packing for Expeditions from Sandy Robson and finally a Buyer Buy Swan and Sell Marketplace. Sunday night’s guest speaker was local Perthian Terry Bolland, and his adventure of 129 days across Canada by Kayak. I was

NSW SEA KAYAK CLUB | APRIL 2018 12

Delay in Mounting of 11 also suffered mount an effective Rescue Fatal from cold water rescue operation. Lake immersion, and were The operator pleaded The failure of a near death when a guilty to charges kayak hire operator rescue helicopter under the Health and Tekapo to provide an finally hovered Safety in Employment adequate safety overhead. briefing, and to track Act 1992 and the Tragic the location of his At District Court Maritime Transport clients, contributed sentencing, the Judge Act 1994. He was Double to the deaths of told the Court the sentenced to 200 hours two international operator’s ‘greatest community service and students on a New failure’ was that once was ordered to pay Drowning Zealand South Island the weather changed $324,500 in reparations, alpine lake. for the worse, he including $115,000 to did not make visual each of the families A further three contact with the of the young men who students in the party kayakers, and did not died.

Reprinted from MNZ’s communications devices. Only one his body drifted away, the other two Lookout magazine, was an experienced paddler, with hung on to either side of the kayak August 2017, Issue 37 several of the others never having and kicked for the western shore. been in a kayak before. and provided with the Up ahead, the first to the island assistance of the Kiwi Earlier in the day, at breakfast, in the advance group was the Association of Sea some of the group had sighted an experienced female kayaker and Kayakers who printed the island eight kilometres off shore. a male in one of the doubles. The Once out kayaking, the whole party pair were unaware their friends article in NZ Sea Kayaker decided to strike out for the island – No. 190 August-September were in danger. The next kayaker but on the way across they spread to paddle in shouted a warning that 2017. out into three groups. After an hour they needed to call for help. or so the wind whipped up from The weather was initially warm and the east, and five people ended However, none of them had brought the lake calm on the late September up capsized. In the deteriorating a cellphone along. With no form of day, when the visiting party set conditions and with limited communications the group could out in five single and three double experience, none of them could not raise the alarm. They started a kayaks they had hired between re-board. fire hoping the smoke signal would them. draw attention. Two of the young The first to capsize were one The operator who hired out the men tried to paddle for a house male in the middle group, and a paddle-craft ran a ‘resort-style’ on the eastern shore, but waves woman in the rear group of two. kayaking business. His sign, flooded the kayak. The woman’s companion came near the lake edge, indicated to her aid, but he was also flipped Back at the lakefront, the operator the operating area was up to five out in the half-metre waves. That had been distracted for 40 minutes kilometres from shore. The man pair decided to swim for the lake’s by other customers. Once he had limited experience of kayaking western shore. himself, and the hirage was aimed realized the weather had turned mostly at tourists and back-packers Meanwhile all three men in the to a strong and cold easterly wind, – many also with little experience. middle group tried to assist their he could not see any sign of the friend in the lake. Two ended up student group. About 1:40pm that day, the student in the water themselves, and it group arrived at the lake and was A safety plan for the operation was decided the third man should given a limited briefing – which outlined that he should keep a paddle to the island to raise the did not include safety warnings watch on kayakers using binoculars, alarm – believing someone ahead about changeable weather and the and if anyone was in distress take had a cellphone. dangers of prolonged immersion out a motorised lifeboat to reach in cold alpine waters. The nine The remaining three men clung to a their location. His rescue vessel men and two women were aged kayak for a prolonged period hoping could only hold three adults, so 20-22. They wore lifejackets but for rescue. When one of them would not have been able to pick up not wetsuits, and did not carry any succumbed to the conditions and all those in the lake anyway.

APRIL 2018 | SALT 13

When he eventually launched Lookout! Points specifically instructed the group not the boat, he was also turned • This operator did not comply with to head away from shore back by the choppy conditions. his responsibilities and follow his • Both the operator and the group He too had no cellphone or other safety plan should have had communications communication device to contact • He should have kept a watch on to call for emergency help rescue services. After taking the location of the kayakers; and • This operator did not react quickly considerable time to seek the help should have implemented an enough and ended up raising of locals for sightings and the use of effective emergency plan. This the alarm far too late, with tragic another vessel, his partner arrived consequences at the scene and finally, 111 was should have included taking a dialed. suitable rescue boat out when the • As it involved a powered vessel, group was no longer in sight and this operation should have been By this stage, the five students the weather turned entered into Maritime NZ’s Safe had already been in the lake more • All adventure tourism operators Ship Management System in 2013 than an hour. Survival times for must take appropriate steps to and should have subsequently cold water immersion are generally ensure the safety of customers. In transitioned into the Maritime about 40 minutes. this case, the clients should have Operator Safety System (MOSS) A further 45 minutes later, around been warned to remain within a • Business owners setting up to hire 5:00 pm, the first to be rescued from safe distance from shore out kayaks and other paddle craft the eastern edge of the lake was • The judge acknowledged this should discuss their operating the woman swimmer. Nearby was man was intending only to run a and safety requirements with a the body of the 20-year-old man resort-style kayaking hirage, close Maritime NZ Maritime Officer. You who had come to her rescue. He to shore. However, cold water can find contact details for our died just before reaching shore. The immersion is a constant danger nearest Maritime NZ office on our exhausted woman went back and with alpine lakes and this should website: www.maritimenz.govt.nz dragged his body out of the water, have been part of a comprehensive • People who want to assess but could not revive him. safety briefing whether to use an adventure She was hospitalised, along with • Inexperienced kayakers need to tourism operator should ask what the other two survivors who kicked remain near land. Operators must safety management plans they to shore further along the lake edge. assess thoroughly what level of have in place, and should ask to All three were suffering from severe experience their clients have had see evidence hypothermia when the helicopter on the water – and especially their • Anyone venturing onto waterways crew picked them up, and had a ability to re-board a kayak and in New Zealand needs to make narrow escape. The two men who paddle back to safety sure they understand the hazards died were among those who went to of the local environment, and take • Had he checked properly the assist their friends. care with their own safety. kayaking background of each individual, this man could have

NSW SEA KAYAK CLUB | APRIL 2018 14 Wattamolla

An unrelated excursion at Wattamolla. The seas can pick up at the entrance between the heads (Image - Ruby Ardren) .

Ken Silvester (still a novice beaching and lunch at Wattamolla. and used the paddle with my right – still paddling) learns a The cliff line looked equally hand. While I had at home an old few things about safety spectacular; the scree slopes; the PFD suitable for sea kayaking, and rescues - the hard way. waterfalls; not to mention sea caves I hadn’t brought it on the day. I all kept my attention when not have since invested in a new PFD Boxing Day. My destination was a looking for larger than usual waves. designed for sea-kayaking. full day’s paddle from Bundeena As I approached Wattamolla, it The rocks were looming closer. wharf, through the Port Hacking started to look a bit dicey. There I made contact. Thankfully, they Heads to Garie, and return. was an outer reef, with waves were not sharp. I got some traction, The day was cloudy, estimated breaking; not too high, but high and pushed away, but only after one and a half to two metre swell, enough. I tried to time my crossing realising that the gravity of my with noticeable backwash from the to calmer water, but a wave caught situation was still precarious. looming cliff face if I ventured too the kayak, sped it up, and plunged I had noticed three men observing close. the nose into the water. me from the time of my initial It was great to see Marley Beach, So over I went. Sound familiar? capsize. After what seemed like and continue on. A later bay had I had a 300 metre swim through 10 minutes I assumed they lost four waterfalls cascading into the choppy water, with the current interest because they disappeared. sea from high cliffs. Wattamolla pushing me onto rocks. I was Unbeknown to me, they had seen appeared, looking reasonably uninjured and calm, but definitely my drift pattern. They ran around serene, from my position. Then on not safe. Another wave caught the the bay; across the sand; up to Garie. There were a series of kayak, and it was washed from near the rocks where I had made eight huge rock falls on the cliff- my grasp. I maintained hold of contact; and all three jumped in. face, making delta pattern scree the paddle for all I was worth. The Another man, Nigel, arrived just slopes. bungee rope snapped. before them. From the way he straddled the kayak, and entered The first glimpse of Garie beach It took a few minutes swimming the cockpit, I could tell he was an was probably after three hours to catch the kayak. I tried bailing, experienced kayaker. Nigel paddled plus of continuous paddling. It was hoping to get back in and paddle ashore, while I held onto the stern confirmed when I saw the Surf away from the rocks. I can’t and stroked with one arm, so as Life Savers’ Building. I could see remember exactly when I pulled the not to be a dead weight behind the the huts at Era and Werrong; such inflator on my life jacket. It took two kayak. beautiful headlands! attempts, which is worth noting. A We reached shore. I crawled up Josh, the instructor on my first person knocked unconscious would the sand, totally exhausted. Nigel’s course with the Sea Kayak Club , not have any inflation. wife offered me a bottle of water. I had advised me not to attempt to Once the PFD was inflated, there indicated I had some in the kayak. land at Garie. I took his advice. was no chance of getting back There was no mobile coverage, so it So I turned around and headed aboard. Swimming was also was pointless to ring Owen, my son north, hoping for an uneventful cumbersome. I held onto the kayak (my first thought). Nigel had roof

APRIL 2018 | SALT 15 racks, and offered to drive me to would she have coped with a phone Nowra as part of the Anglican Aid Bundeena. How humbling? call that I wasn’t coming home? fundraiser. It definitely won’t happen the way I had envisaged, and it may Looking in the fridge seemed The three young men offered to not happen at all. portage the kayak to the car park. strange. Having a shower and They had the sensible idea to making sure my wet clothes went paddle it through the lagoon, and straight into the washing machine. then carry it the last section (two of Mundane life; how precious? - - Ken had not joined NSW Sea the guy’s names were Lachlan). That night as I looked at the stars Kayak Club yet when this incident And so I came home to tell the my thankfulness to God in Jesus happened. In fact, it was this tale. I had some strange feelings was complete. incident, along with encouragement at home. Bronwyn was lying down, I need to rethink the idea of from Josh Andrews, that was the with a really bad headache. How paddling from Palm Beach to catalyst for joining - -

Left to right: The inReach Explorer+; inReach website view of track through Cape Hauy.

Garmin A quick review of the Garmin inReach by inReach Campbell Tiley. The inReach is a really device can also log your track to a no preloaded maps, compass or useful communication tool for website, can download standard barometric altimeter. remote travel and provides an and marine weather forecasts With a plan for some remote additional option for emergency and can be activated to send an northern hemisphere paddling communication. Campbell Tiley automated SOS. The interactive mid-year, I wanted a better explains why. SOS message is passed to communication option than a InReach is a GPS enabled GEOS - a professional 24/7 global satellite phone. I have found communications device previously monitoring centre who will alert receiving calls and messages on made by Delorme before Garmin rescue coordination services a satellite phone to be unreliable purchased the company and now appropriate to your location and will in the past although making calls distributes a modified device in two use the device to communicate with has the advantage of supporting models, the SE+ and Explorer+. you as the rescue unfolds. a two-way conversation, albeit an expensive one. The inReach allows either The Explorer+ model has basic prespecified or composed on the navigation functionality with an I purchased an inReach Explorer+ run short messages to be sent on-screen map, track and compass from an online supplier a week to either mobile phones by SMS, heading display. While less before heading down to Tasmania in or to email addresses using the functional than a standard GPS, the February and it arrived just before worldwide coverage provided by the Explorer+ is a little more expensive departure. Due to weather issues Iridium satellite network. Location than the SE+ model but provides a our paddling was less remote information can be embedded backup for your GPS. The SE+ will than we had hoped but there was automatically in messages. The display location on a grid but has adequate opportunity to test the

NSW SEA KAYAK CLUB | APRIL 2018 16

device. The inReach needs an days but charged from around 50% • Easy to remain in contact when account with Garmin and this needs to full on a 20W solar panel in a you need to to be set up on a computer to few hours one sunny afternoon. It • The ability to compose a message activate the device. Once activated, is easily recharged from a lithium rather than being limited to presets the inReach can be managed battery power bank. (like the Spot) independently. A smartphone can Cost • An emergency communication be paired by Bluetooth for easier device allowing two-way The Explorer+ cost me $699 from text entry. messaging Johnny Appleseed, $100 less Although contacts are simple to for the SE+ model. EK have the • I don’t keep paying when I am enter, it would have been a lot Explorer+ on their site for $695. stuck at work (unlike the Spot) easier if I had entered key contacts Dislikes via the laptop before heading off. When the account is active, the inReach is not cheap with monthly • Nothing major Garmin provides clear instructions costs varying from $25 to $149 • It is almost a functional GPS for adding a web address through depending on the plan you select. navigation device. Why not add your Garmin account, which can There is a $37 annual fee for the some Garmin smarts to get it display your track and messages Freedom plans that allow the there? that you mark for display, so following flexibility with plans. devoted followers can eyeball your Do I need a PLB if I carry an every move. With the standard The really brilliant aspect of the inReach? settings, the track seemed a little Freedom billing model is that you OF COUSE YOU SHOULD ALSO more coarsely segmented than my can change the plan each month TAKE A PLB. PLBs are a critical old Spot 3 but more frequent data without charge and, importantly, you emergency signalling device with points can be selected if your plan can elect to inactivate the device for enough battery power (if tested and allows. months when you are not using it in date) to reliably signal your plight and avoid paying any subscriptions Messaging in and out was easy and when the fan gets really dirty. for those months. The annual plans the device seemed to lock on to the have cheaper monthly rates but lack In summary, I found the inReach network rapidly on start-up. Entering the flexibility to inactivate the device Explorer+ to be a useful addition text on the device with a rocker and when you are not in the bush. to my remote paddling kit, which selector control was a bit clumsy, delivered as promised and is but workable. It worked fine in a day Likes a significant step up from the hatch. The weather downloads were • A compact, reasonably waterproof communication functionality useful (text only) and the marine (IPX7) and robust device provided by Spot. weather provided by OCEANS seemed accurate in our limited trial with similar detail to the BOM short wave radio forecasts. Marine weather provides a seven-day forecast for any location, defaulting to where you are, billed at $1.50 to your account for each update.e Power The inReach has an internal battery that is not user-accessible, so it is not possible to swap in new batteries, or to replace dead ones as the device ages. On the other hand, the sealed battery compartment arguably removes a point of failure in a wet environment. Charging is via the USB connector. Power consumption will clearly be influenced by your usage. I had tracking on when paddling and did a bit of messaging and the device seemed good for around seven

APRIL 2018 | SALT 17 The Coast Boast

Competition sponsored by prokayaks Kayak, ski and SUP sales and hire

11 Narrabeen Street, Narrabeen Ph: 9970 7081 prokayaks.com.au

Thanks to all of those who’ve Answers for the third round are: persevered with this drawn out contest (some lessons there!). The Percent end is nigh. Location Answer correct* 13 Lobster Beach, Broken Bay; Pearl Beach visible on Not surprisingly, the level of entries the left across the water 100 has subsided over the course of the challenge. However, only a few 14 Approaching Point Perpendicular from the north 100 locations separate the leaders from 15 Dark Point (northern side) looking across to the rest of the pack. Theoretically, Broughton Island 100 it’s still possible for all of those who 16 Coogee Bay 100 submitted entries for Round 3 to 17 Green Island. “[not so] prominent peak…” on left emerge as the competition’s winner hand side of picture is Pigeon House Mountain (photo by the time all entries for Round 4 courtesy of Roy Davies) 67 are received. We encourage you 18 Bongin Bongin Bay, Mona Vale 67 to hang in there as the $400 gift voucher from ProKayaks is still up * Still more entries expected to come in at the time of writing for grabs. One entry worthy of comment the Club’s website (accessed via words, they fall within an easy day’s (received from one of our most The Coast Boast link appearing in drive of Sydney. experienced members) identified the navigation bar on the left-hand- The winner will be announced at Location 18 as “NFI”. We can only side of the home page). this years Rock ‘n’ Roll dinner on assume that this means Norfolk the Saturday night, so make sure Island but given that we haven’t Please remember that your answer is to indicate from where the you get your entries in time to run a Club trip there in the last five Adrian Clayton. years (if ever!) we have no idea as picture was taken using whatever to how the answer was arrived at. identifiable features you can see within it to do so. The pictures for the final round (Round 4; locations 19 to 24) Also remember that all the locations appear on the next page with clues. have figured in a NSWSK Club High quality images and clues for activity within New South Wales each location will also appear on during the last five years. In other

NSW SEA KAYAK CLUB | APRIL 2018 18 19

Location 19 Is this one of Alice’s associates looking for her?

Location 20 Not far from a regular Club haunt south of Sydney. The structure on the right hand side of the picture might be a giveaway.

Location 21 Sounds like any hash-smoking visitors to where this Central Coast cave is located are encouraged to continue indulging their habit.

APRIL 2018 | SALT 18 19

Location 22 Given the claims of local residents of this fashionable bayside address the sand pictured here is a disappointment.

Location 23 Got tin troop rearranged for the location of the recognisable feature on the left hand side of picture (6,5).

Location 24 When planning a Club activity here it’s wise to check out a couple of coastal area forecasts.

NSW SEA KAYAK CLUB | APRIL 2018 20

The Batemans Bay Explorers The crew assembled at very helpful Vincent (who has a A couple of hatch covers had the Old Steampacket Inn lot if spare stuff in his car!). Some miraculously re-opened since the at Nelligen on Saturday deficiencies in personal gear were gear inspection, and one challenged morning for a paddle discovered and zips done up etc paddler had his paddle the wrong (I don’t want to give too much way around, but after correcting with a difference. The away and lessen the experience these issues things settled down difference was that the for others who may choose to and people (apart from myself!) guide Neil Gow was really undertake the arduous road to started to enjoy the tree lined Clyde only a guide under training qualifications!). The route, including River. We landed (without incident!) and observation. proposed landings, was explained for a break near Big Island and then and safety procedures outlined and proceeded through the oyster farms The observer was the eagle then came the moment of truth…the to land (again without incident) eyed Adrian Clayton. After Adrian launch! What naughtiness could be at Batemans Bay Bridge for a explained this variation to a normal expected here? lunch break. So far, so good. The club paddle he stepped back and anticipated nor-easter had come in, I nominated Vincent as my assistant nodded to me, and I knew I was so I explained the impact this might guide. Surely he couldn’t be too under observation for the rest of the have on the dreaded group spread naughty with such an exalted title! weekend. No pressure! as we paddled north east to Judges’ But the others? I decided to assert Beach, our campsite for the night. As I surveyed the crew I wondered my authority from the start and The north coast of Batemans Bay what I would encounter from the demanded that if anyone capsized allowed some rock gardening hardy Caoimhin, the individualistic after launching, and before I was opportunities, which were pounced and always helpful Vince, the on the water, they must swim back on by the plastic paddlers. There compliant Darren (he was present to shore and leave their kayak for was some group spread as we to top up his log book for his Sea collection by my esteemed assistant passed Square Head, but instead Skills qualification - no trouble guide who would launch first. No likely to come from there!), and the one capsized! new club member Gareth, whose We set off down river in calm newbieness was to my advantage. conditions and one (hardy) Introductions were finished and individual decided to go his own we checked gear. Oops - one way, but I despatched my assistant paddler didn’t have a paddle. Was to bring him back to the fold. this a trick or a genuine oversight? Uncertainty had raised its ugly head immediately. It was a genuine oversight and quickly fixed by the Club Trips 21 of being the result of mischief it The wind forecast for the Sunday As we were somewhat ahead of our was due to the genuine variation was bordering on the extreme schedule to be back at Batemans in paddle skills and some shouting for a lowly trainee Enclosed Sea Bay Bridge by 2.30pm, we took the and whistling had to be done to Guide. After adhering to the club’s opportunity to explore the mangrove keep the greyhounds in check! requirements in such cases we set forest up Cullendulla Creek, and Landing was achieved in good order off, with me prepared to relinquish played hide and seek amongst the and we set up camp, and then set control to Adrian should the wind trees for thirty minutes. As we set it up again after learning that Tim develop. The decision was made course for the bridge I wondered the Yowie man would be renting to visit the iconic Tollgate Islands what mischief Adrian was dreaming the NSW NPWS Yellow Rock and provide the opportunity to enter up for the last leg. But there was cottage that weekend. We expected the infamous Blue Cave, previously none. Maybe his active brain must he would seize on our bunch of explored in style by Selim and have been dulled by the beautifully intrepid adventurers and extract in Fernando at the 2014 Rock and quiet surroundings of Cullendulla depth personal stories of the great Roll! The cave was entered by Creek. dangers we were encountering, some, and the blowhole on the but we were gone the next day We cruised into the beach southern island was working, so, adjacent to the parking area at the before he woke up! So much for satisfied that our dreams had been investigative journalism! bridge, landed and had our group realised, we felt the need for coffee, debriefing. Complaints were few, Next morning before we launched, so struck out for Maloney’s Beach thanks were offered and we jumped I pointed out the adjacent headland café. A good guide always looks into a passing car (actually a with clipped trees which had been after the comfort of his group! The prearranged friend if Neil’s) to ship pruned by the Batemans Bay water strong wind did not eventuate, so us back to Nelligen to collect the spout a few summers ago that it was a steady paddle with great abandoned cars. After washing and fortunately didn’t come to land in the group cohesion to Maloney’s for the loading the kayaks and farewelling populated areas of Long Beach and coffee break. was completed, Adrian and Neil Maloney’s Beach! then had a one on one debriefing about the weekend, but I am sworn to secrecy about that!

The Tollgates. Image - Adrian Clayton 22 Bouncing off Broughton

Using our experiences in a BOUNCE 1: Be prepared to is revoked. We will paddle to three day trip to Broughton bounce the trip before you start! Broughton Island on Wednesday (today). Island in December 2017, Mark already had four trips to Mark Fuller and David Broughton pulled because of bad BOUNCE 4: Be prepared to start Gibbins attempt to figure weather. Tough but good decisions all over! - where sometimes not everyone some ways sea kayakers Is Broughton bouncing us back to (or all the forecasts) will agree. Safe can ‘bounce off‘ Broughton. where we just came from? Thunder! returns are your trip leader’s prime What? The heads of Port Stephens, We hope this will have responsibility. some useful ideas for any where we had just come from, look multi-day trip. BOUNCE 2: Be prepared to like an erupting volcano. postpone your start! It’s not lunchtime on Day 1 yet! This Nick decides “We’re not going to An email from Nick : storm wasn’t in the BoM forecast. bounce off Cons Cleft today fellas” Can Port Stephens Marine Rescue “The BOM have issued a strong and backs out. From a distance give us an update? Nope - just a wind warning for Hunter coast for David starts breathing again. Better repeat of the 6am BoM forecast. Thursday with SW to NW winds of to back off instead of bouncing off So Nick pressed pause as we 15-30 knots at various times. This rocks he thinks - when there are backed up into a small cove on the combined with large swells means plenty of other ways to ‘bounce’ off Cabbage Tree Island that we had we will not be paddling to Broughton Broughton! just passed. The rain and thunder Island on Wednesday (tomorrow). Nick Blacklock was the highly stopped. Would there be more respected Trip Leader. Adrian BOUNCE 3: Rebound - Go back storms?? Nick decided we should Clayton provided the sea kayaking to Plan A make it for Broughton. Be adaptable and observe the unexpected - then ‘eminence presence’ (and bad dad Nick phones through as he travels make a decision even if you don’t jokes). up - the strong wind warning know everything you want to.

APRIL 2018 | SALT Club Trips 23

BOUNCE 5: Bouncing around keep paddling with all the energy • Adrian saw some footprints in the lessons and doggedness you still have sand and using his tracking skills within you. - learned from indigenous peoples Bouncing around on the open - deduced the walker had a knee ocean can teach a lot that just can’t Mark, Adrian and Nick took turns in be learnt on flat water. The open towing David – mostly in tandem. replacement. (Adrian seems to ocean is multi-dimensional and This was more complex than in have a surgical scar on one of his always changing. David had grown flat water. More often than not only knees!) to love his Greenland paddles – one of the two ropes was working. • The occasional (not too) serious on enclosed waters. As the trip Lurching sometimes caused both discussion leader, Nick noticed David was not ropes to be slack. Mark, Adrian and • Paddling and maritime history ‘gripping’ the swell and losing pace. Nick all said they felt significant – understanding how things Nick suggested David swap his resistance. It seems practicing were and how things came to Greenland for his Euro paddle, and open ocean tows in day trips before be. People’s knowledge was stroke well forward with a strong multiday trips – preferably with the astounding. catch. Immediate improvement! You same people – would be a good • Don’t always trust maritime charts can learn what can’t be learned any thing. Saying thanks to the ‘tow-ers’ – ‘bombies’ can explode even other way by going on ocean trips in is also a good thing! where charts show many metres real and challenging conditions with There was no doubt David needed experienced paddlers. deep. towing. Nick needed to make good BOUNCE 6: Ignominy when time in the face of growing head BOUNCE 9: Reflections after the bouncing around Broughton winds. Once landed David had trip nothing left. He lay on the grass With strong headwinds, serious Some of Mark’s reflections: with his hat over his face for so long swell and confusing rebound, • Working as a team leads to greater that a concerned Adrian lent over when rounding Broughton for our cohesion and ability to work and as ked “Are you alright?” David landing, David was already in tow. through unexpected issues mumbled “Yeah, OK – just had it!” Trip leader Nick had sidled up to * It’s bliss having the best tent :) David and quietly asked would he BOUNCE 7: Have fun! * Bomboras and Yetis can be very accept towing assistance. David On the middle full day, Nick, Adrian very real things - respect them said YES with no hesitation. He and Mark went round the islands had heard reports of other trips • Don’t be afraid to ask, listen and having fun, while David had a day where participants had hesitated or learn from those in the group with off enjoying the island (recovering refused to be towed and so caused greater skills and experience from the trip out!). grief to others. If your trip leader * It is very rewarding to say yes suggests you need a tow forget BOUNCE 8: Enjoy the social and to every opportunity to explore your feelings and ACCEPT! Then chat the caves and channels of the Bouncing off each other: Broughton Island Group Opposite top: Con’s Cleft (Image - Mark * Next time remember to take red Fuller); Below left to right: Nick ponders • The great pub meals at Broughton what’s next in the rain and thunder; Mark Island Pub (joke) wine :( exploring alternative landing sites; Nick in • Your tent is better than my tent Cont. on page 25 relaxation mode (Images Adrian Clayton)

NSW SEA KAYAK CLUB | APRIL 2018 24 Club Trips 25

The Hacking River and its environs

Sharon and Rob’s Urban Adventure 1: were cool, the sky was clear, there was a gentle breeze out of Swallow Rock to Kurnell the southwest, and, although the tide was on the flood, we had an easy paddle exploring the edges on the lookout for birds and small animals in the overhanging trees and undergrowth. Heading into South West Arm for lunch the tide scooted us along and we soon came to the cascade where we could have carefully tethered our kayaks before heading up the rocky track to Winfred Falls but the charm of a sundrenched clearing just downstream and the need for food and a stretch won out in the end. Lunch was had on a grassy patch back downstream facing a sandstone cliff face and deep dark pool below. Fish could be seen darting along in the shallows and elusive birdlife twittered in the vegetation. We made good time and arrived at Bonnie Vale at the top of the tide, ensuring our portage to the campsite was short. It was quiet in the campground so there was ample space to spread out and enjoy the warmth of the afternoon sun. The hot showers were a fine way of warming up. We pitched tents, put a brew on, snacked and gossiped, while Rob tried his luck at fishing. Later as the sun set and the half moon’s glow intensified we shared food and stories, laughs and experiences. The gas stoves Sharon Betteridge leads a to Bonnie Vale would need some cooked our fare and we washed regular Saturday morning creative thinking to ensure it would it down with some of Tessa’s fine paddle, with an occasional go ahead. The group had put aside red. For afters we enjoyed Cecilia’s overnighter - this one the weekend and were eagerly homemade apple cake with warm looking forward to a weekend heading south from Botany custard courtesy of Deb. The night away; and for some it was their sky took on a darker shade and Bay. inaugural trip - packing kayaks with Jupiter hung close to the moon, but camping gear and provisions for an Whilst watching the weather the ambient light of Sydney and the overnighter. forecast for the week leading up to half moon’s glow ensured that even with my powerful binoculars very the trip I noticed that a front was After meeting at Kurnell and leaving little else could be seen. developing and a Strong Wind enough cars there for the return Warning would be issued for the journey we moved kayaks and gear Our conversations lulled and were Sydney and Illawarra Coastal to the other cars and continued to extinguished as one by one the Waters for Saturday. I knew then the sheltered waters of Swallow group moved off to their tents for a that my proposed trip from Malabar Rock for our launch. peaceful evening’s sleep, the only

APRIL 2018 | SALT 24 Club Trips 25

Left to right: Passing the lighthouse on Cape Baily; Pulling the kayaks out at Bonnie Vale campground for the night. Opposite: Lunch stop in South West Arm, Port Hacking (Images - Rob Mercer)

noise being the deep, low call of the Headland afforded some protection, there were whales we couldn’t see Bucks among the feral deer and the but we were soon exposed to the any. Out to sea there appeared to rhythmic beat of the water lapping large ocean swells. Waves piled be only a couple of gannets and the sand. up along Osborne Shoals, but one lone ship. showed no signs of breaking. It was Up at a respectable hour we All too soon we turned northwest a different story as we approached enjoyed breakfast and leisurely then gradually trending west around Merries Reef. Board riders were packed our kit for the return journey. the shoreline and into Botany Bay enjoying the thrill of the exploding By now the tide was at full run out past Captain Cook’s memorial. A waves and accompanying spray. and the invading southeasterly large oil tanker accompanied us The big “barrels” at nearby surf swell turned the bar into a series albeit in deeper water, docking at magnet known locally as “Voodoo” of gentle runners perfect for surf the kilometre long refinery wharf. built up again further inshore practice and Peter and Geoff took The greens and ochres of the suggesting that the entrance to Boat the opportunity to get out amongst it national park merged into Kurnell Harbour was closing out, so we left under Rob’s expert guidance. suburbia. an exploration of this usually safe Yesterday’s wind had eased and haven for another more benign day. As the bow of my kayak gently swung around to a gentle puff from grazed the sand I reflected on the It was a spectacular morning. The great friendship, camaraderie and the northwest. tall sandstone cliffs around the teamwork I enjoyed on this trip We all met up near Gunnamatta capes reflected both the morning and my thoughts soon turned to Bay and continued our outward sun, and the oncoming swell. Whale planning another trip somewhere on journey across Bate Bay. Jibbon watchers stood atop the cliffs, but if the sea.

Cont. from page 23 time with paddlers who are so outstanding in the kayaking Some of David’s reflections: community. • Thanks! To Nick for his wise well- • Natural surroundings coupled thought-through decisions and with the ‘intimate’ experience of well-explained clear leading. To paddling at the ocean’s ‘air/water Adrian for his generous sharing of interface’ - is good for the whole his great kayaking experience and person! his jokes. To Mark for showing us what the best tent looks like. To all • Go on more multi-day trips! three for their companionship and • Finally I’d like to acknowledge towing me! the Traditional Custodians of • Nick was right in the debrief: Broughton Island – the Woromi “David: you need to work on your - who paddled out long before forward stroke.” us, and pay my respects to their Elders past and present. • What a privilege it is to spend

NSW SEA KAYAK CLUB | APRIL 2018 26 COCKATOO ISLAND

If you are thinking that sea kayaking. Include abseiling, different to classroom academics David Fisher has been a canyoning, caving, black run skiing, and typical team sports and bit absent of late, you are hiking, white water, scuba and the growth it can offer a child is mistaken. You just haven’t sailing. I know a few of you can captivating to be a part of. Some of name these in your skills bag too. the elements particularly reported been looking in the right However, I think we all understand on, is how outdoor education helps place. that holding many and varied those who don’t fit the mould for With two sons, 12 and 13 years old, qualifications is uncommon. I don’t one reason or another. climb. I don’t camp above the snow I must follow my nurturing instincts By running a Scout troop, by having line. Sorry Ian Vaile. I did once (obligations?) and focus on raising my boys involved, my boys obtain and it was awesome, I just prefer my boys. Everyone rears their child many opportunities to develop and downhilling and the comforts of a in their own way. This is my version. mature in the mixed company of lodge at the end of the day. I lead a Scout Troop of 40 local their peers. While my boys may be Lindfield boys and girls, aged 11 to This means I can offer some great my main motivator, the benefits of 15. Our program includes camping, adventures to my boys. And I do. my efforts are spread across the hiking, abseiling, sailing, canyoning, Mini-adventures on weekends and other youth who participate in my kayaking and canoeing. We do as longer adventures on holidays Scout Troop. are our norm. This also includes many weekends as we leaders So where have I been then? During adventures with Scouts where have energy to supervise. a week in October, I was kayaking I lead and facilitate a lot of the four times on four days in four As Liam Neeson would say, ‘…what adventurous activities for our Troop. I do have are a very particular set different craft. I now own seven of skills, skills I have acquired over The benefits of Scouting are well kayaks but I reckon Cathy Miller, a very long career...’. At the risk of reported and now widely copied Owen Kimberley or the Duffy’s blowing my own trumpet, I have in education systems worldwide. could beat that. Arguably three skills in outdoors and adventurous Young people respond well to aren’t even mine, they are small activities. I have worked bloody outdoor activity. They enjoy learning whitewater kayaks that I bought for hard and sunk an inordinate amount by doing and experiencing in the my boys. Day 1 was white water of effort over 30+ years to acquire natural environment. I know some kayaking at Penrith Whitewater these skills. Some of my skills are of you have taken your young Stadium in my Dagger Axiom. That common to outdoor types, like families canoeing to Fossickers place needs more recognition and camping. Lets add in qualified skills Flat. That is a perfect example and I commend it to you for developing in the adventurous activities eg. a great weekend out. It is totally your skills at higher levels. Be careful though, PWS has been known to bite and only the bravest of sea kayakers give it a try. Day 2 was teaching beginners white water kayaking in my new, albeit 2nd hand, Wavesport Diesel. Day 3 was canoe polo in polo bat (if anyone knows why a polo kayak is called a bat, let me know). My upper body screams for mercy after three 12-minute games. I know my muscles are getting a workout, as is my cardiovascular system. My ball skills, team strategy and field positioning, while totally rubbish, to which John Piotrowski will attest, can only improve. Being shoved in the shoulder, capsizing and then hand rolling up is a lot of fun on a

APRIL 2018 | SALT 27 warm evening. Day 4 was kayaking you, your kayak and no facilities. Burns Bay Road Bridge. Locals will to Cockatoo Island in my Mirage Surf landing on a steep beach, know what I mean. 580 with 39 Scouts and fellow pitching a tent on sparsely covered The 12km distance pushed some parents/leaders tagging along. grass with sand getting everywhere. of the Scouts. The older Scouts While I enjoy the remoteness And so I move to the supposed typically complain that the younger topic of this yarn, Cockatoo Island. that expeditions provide, like so scouts are hopeless paddlers. I have paddled past Cockatoo many in our club, sometimes the Some younger scouts wanted it to Island on numerous occasions but comforts available to a kayaker that end. Fast forward a year or so and have never kayaked and landed are found on Cockatoo Island are the young scouts become the older there before. On reflection, this is welcome. scouts with a fresh gang of new a little strange seeing as it is in my The history of Cockatoo Island Scouts. The new-older Scouts now backyard. is amazing. It has history as an become the ones that complain about the skills or efforts of the new I recommend all kayakers go to old naval shipyard and one can young scouts they are teamed with. Cockatoo Island and camp a night do a self-guided tour through the We remind them that they were here. Why? In short, it is so easily cavernous buildings, with huge once young. This is their turn to accessed for Sydney-siders, it is presses in situ, and multiple tunnels teach and encourage. This is the historically interesting, and the dug through the sandstone used to circle of Scouts. city views are darn good. It has transport heavy materials from one features a kayaker rarely, if ever side to the other. The Scouts and I We had countless nesting seagulls sees in nature. A gently sloping imagined working there each day nearby. The Scouts and I enjoyed concrete slipway provides access in summer heat and winter chills, observing them in their nests, on and off the island complete with building and repairing ships. perhaps sitting on a pair of eggs rubber matting laid out to land on The scouts were occupying 16 open or with their newborn chicks. An and protect our uber-expensive plastic wobbegong canoes with occasional daddy seagull was seen composite kayaks. There is laser- single blade paddles. The youngest landing on mummy seagulls back levelled flat grass to camp on, a Scouts had adults stationed in for a cheeky visit. Hmmm, say camp kitchen, toilets and showers, the stern seat to provide some no more, this magazine is family a continuous hot running water reading. skill and propulsion. We ambled system and a sink. down the Lane Cove River, landing The gulls reminded me of the The opposite is typically the case periodically, like the quicksand-like shearwaters of Broughton Island, for expedition kayaking where it is exposed sand at low tide under the crying all night long. The damn

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seagulls interrupted my sleep to the point of me feeling like a zombie in the morning and likely looking like one too. Some of the Scouts packed up at 1am, figuring it was too hot and they weren’t sleeping anyway. Having no sleep is hardly ideal for a child but this is Scouts. They learn by experiencing and doing. If not today, then one day. The crossing from Hunters Hill to Cockatoo Island was kicking up some sea and had a decent headwind of 10kts gusting to 15kts from SE. If this doesn’t sound like too much, imagine having the muscle of a 13-year-old and piloting a wobbegong with their significant beam and windage/freeboard. Suffice to say, it did present some Scouting openly scoff and deride Scouting’s founder some 110 years steering challenges and progress Scouting. Sometimes to my face. ago, is well documented. If you are across the short gap to the island They point out Scouting’s failings. looking for endorsement, you need was slow. That is okay, I’m a big boy. You aren’t telling me stuff I don’t already go no further than to most schools’ Fun. Resilience. Challenge. know. The views of those detractors curriculum that includes an outdoor Friends. Skills. Adventure. Our are born of ignorance. I don’t share education component. Troop is living up to the marketing. their views. The benefits of outdoor Occasionally, people outside of education for youth, started by Saltiest Submission WINNER

The ever modest Cecilia she got all her tripmates to Goon was surprised to contribute to the story, which hear she had won Saltiest she then summed up with her Submission for her article own perspective. celebrating her birthday on On behalf of the club, thanks Broughton Island, saying to Rob Mercer and Mark it was a great feeling to Sundin of Expedition Kayaks get positive feedback. for their generous donation. She clearly enjoyed the Don’t forget, another winner expedition. will be selected from this edition. May the saltiest As editor, I was pleased submitter succeed! to see Cecilia rewarded because I liked how

EXPEDITION KAYAKS Drop in anytime from 0830 to 3/185 Port Hacking Road, Miranda, NSW 2228 1800 Monday to Fridays. Phone (612) 9559 8688 or mob 0417 924 478

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Basin Basecamp

A weekend trip to Broughton Island with Sharon & Rob’s group in September gave Paul Monaro a taste for kayak camping. It also gave me the impetus to do something I’d thought about since I Lion Island bought my first kayak – a solo trip. Pittwater and The Basin trolley were tied on, I set off into a turning around just off Flint and campground is a part of Sydney Pittwater that was almost devoid of Steel Beach. When I rounded West I have spent a lot of time, both in boat traffic. Head back into Pittwater I had the my youth, and for regular camping breeze at my back and plenty of When I got to The Basin about 20 trips with our kids. As a holiday nice runners to play with. I did a minutes later there were only a few destination, it remains a favourite. few trips up and back, enjoying the campers set-up for the weekend. When I’ve travelled around ride. After a bit more exploring of the I chose a spot that would give me Australia, or overseas, I’ve generally Ku-Ring-Gai coast, I landed back at some morning shade, and a short been happy to come home. But The Basin at around 8.30pm. The portage of my kayak from the beach when sitting on a chair at The Basin, blokes who had greeted me on the at the eastern end of the campsite. looking across towards Palm Beach, way out were camped close to my I could happily stay there forever. Sunset that evening was 7.30pm. site. It turned out they were from After setting up camp and having a Camden and this weekend escape In mid-October, I took a Friday rest and a bit of a snack, I went for a was their first trip to the Basin. They afternoon off work to beat peak paddle about 6.30pm, with deck and weren’t disappointed. hour. Getting to the boat ramp headlight attached. As I launched, at Palm Beach a little after 3pm, I’d been checking the BOM and four blokes enjoying a beer in their I had it all to myself, and after WillyWeather forecasts all week fishing boat wished me a good unloading I even managed to grab leading to my trip. With each journey. There’s two things you a free parking spot on Iluka Road passing day the forecast became can rely on at The Basin – friendly a short distance away. I’d done a more favourable. I was looking at locals, and the evening nor ’easterly practice pack of my kayak at home, morning southeast to easterly winds breeze. I headed off into this, and so everything fitted in well (just). around 10 knots, swell of below turned left into the Hawkesbury, And once the spare paddles and 2m, seas below 1m, and a sunny travelling a few kilometres before

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day of around 22°C. This forecast water. With no breeze to speak I ventured further south, this created gave me a reasonably comfortable of, the only sound was the regular a mild complication. Rob Mercer night sleep. (Or maybe it was the plop of my paddle blades. The had warned me about the rebound red wine & bourbon). I was up at forecast 10 knot wind was blowing from Box Head. It quickly became 6am, but didn’t rush. I got on the somewhere else. apparent that it was particularly water at 8.30am. My neighbours strong, and it pushed me south and I continued northeast, towards from Camden were launching at the eastward quite wide of my intended a headland I had chosen as my same time, and again wished me destination. I could be exaggerating, destination. In these situations, it a good journey. I headed straight but I reckon the rebound was still pays to know what you’re doing, across toward the ferry wharf at discernible over 500m from shore. to have a map and to know how Palm Beach. It was a 4km paddle to read one. I had no map, and Again, I could have done with a and a touch over 30 minutes before not much idea. I had decided to map, or some local knowledge at I was turning the corner around the paddle straight across to Box Head. this point. I had intended to head to western point of Barrenjoey head. However, what I was looking at, and Umina Beach for some surf practice. I regularly tell myself I need to get so paddling towards, was Gerrin But mistaking Pearl Beach for a waterproof camera, so I can snap Point. This is at the southern end of Umina, and with an easterly swell away from inside my cockpit. I Bouddi National Park, and around with a long wave period heading reminded myself again right at that 5km northeast of Box Head. When I that way, I figured it would be too moment, because I couldn’t capture got close and paid more attention to challenging. Looking at a map a picture of the large seal sunning the coastline, I wondered why things later, I saw where Umina was, and itself on a rock just off the cliff – or didn’t look as I remembered from reasoned it would have been well of its mate swimming below. So, Google Maps. protected. I was also subsequently there was no point in hanging informed by Geoff & Cecelia that I turned west and then followed the around. I gave them a quick glance the southern end of Pearl Beach coastline south, passing cliffs and and continued east until I could see had been good for their landing that Putty Beach. The BOM forecast down the coast. Then I turned north. particular day. that morning had warned about Apart from a few sailing vessels dangerous surf conditions, and I I made for Patonga, knowing it and two cruisers passing me on the could see the crossed lifesaving would be protected, and might way out of Pittwater, I had the rest flags over the top of some sizable offer small waves at the southern of the trip north to myself. Once I dumping waves. Large waves were end. I pulled in around midday. As slipped away from the low rumble of also forming on a reef to the south. I I dragged my boat ashore, who the waves breaking on Barrenjoey, had no trouble avoiding this, sticking should greet me but the Camden there was nothing but me and the to the shoreward side. However, as lads. They were sitting out the front

Left to right: Pit stop at Patonga; setup at the Basin campround looking towards Palm Beach; the type of pic of Box Head I could have taken if I had a camera (Image by Christopher Wright - with permission); Saturday dinner!

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of the Pub, enjoying a seafood lunch meeting” by the Committee of For me, this trip was a stage in my & a beer. Their fresh prawns looked Camden Campers. I accepted, development, and I was happy with a lot more appetising than the soggy joining them at dusk and stumbling the outcome. Mind you, the kayak sandwich I had prepared. But I had out of there close to midnight. A gods were pretty kind with the worked up a pretty good appetite marvellous night’s sleep followed. I conditions they served. As a result, and enjoyed it all the same. Then didn’t rise till 8am. I’d be full of confidence and bravado I paddled towards the southern for at least the following week, and Of the various things I had pondered end of Patonga Beach. There might even start to plan my next were no waves, other than a small, in the five hours plus on the water solo venture. dumping shore-break. So I prepared the previous day, was how I felt at to paddle back to basecamp. each stage of the trip. I’ve ventured With post-lunch weariness and a alone out into the ocean a few headwind as I set off, I thought how times before, and would usually feel nice it would be sitting out the front isolated and anxious. This made it of the pub enjoying a beer, some not so enjoyable being there, and I prawns, and a beer… wouldn’t stay out long. On this trip, I felt relatively at ease. Even when My first 10km that morning had I was being bounced around on taken 80 minutes. Not fast, but the strenuous last leg, I didn’t feel steady as she goes. The 5km from any panic or sense that I wasn’t in Patonga to the mouth of Pittwater control. Maybe the recent trip to took 90 minutes. The wind was 15 Broughton had given me confidence to 20 knots, with swell and wind- and a different perspective on ocean waves all against me. But once paddling. Maybe I was getting more I turned the corner, I had some and more comfortable with my wind assistance, and landed at the boat. Maybe I was determined to Basin 25 minutes later. Mission make this solo paddle a success, accomplished. 32km, 5 hours 15 and the determination blocked any minutes on the water. I unpacked negative thinking. Maybe it was a and decided I’d done enough for combination of all these things. that day. I had a leisurely afternoon, followed by a sizable dinner. I was Obviously, having an ‘adventure’ in then invited to a “beer appreciation a sea kayak is relative terminology.

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Sea Kayak across Bass Strait 2017 If you had been thinking about planning a trip across Bass Strait, read these trip notes from Kevin Kelly and you’ll have a good idea of what to expect.

Most people think that crossing Bass Strait in a sea kayak is a very dangerous thing to do. Some people thought we were insane. Although there have been a few hardcore paddlers that have straightlined it from Wilson’s Prom to Tassie, the normal sea kayaking route is to travel through a string of islands including Flinders Island on the eastern side of Bass Strait. Wilson’s Prom (Victoria) to Little Musselroe Bay (Tasmania) – Total 380km It is quite a common activity for sea kayakers to paddle across Bass Strait. Several groups make the trip each year. It is not the sort of activity that is newsworthy – unless you are raising money for charity, or disaster strikes.

Day 1 Sydney to Port Day 2 – Port Welshpool to Refuge Day 3 – Refuge Cove to Hogan Welshpool Cove – 42km. Island – 55km We left Sydney Wednesday, 27 We started packing the kayaks at We set off at 7am, the conditions December at 10am, drove to Port 7am and launched at 9am. The were magnificent again, no wind Welshpool and arrived at 9pm. I conditions were magnificent, no and no swell. We paddled 53km spent the night sleeping in the car. wind, no swell. We paddle 42km in to Hogan Island in nine hours, We were a team of three paddlers just over five hours. An impressive averaging 6 km per hour. On the and one land crew. average speed of 7.9km per hour. way across we saw dolphins, sea On reaching Refuge Cove, we set lions, and lots of birds. We stayed in up our tents, had dinner and went a fully stocked hut for two nights as to bed to prepare for our first island there were very strong 70km winds crossing the next day. coming. There is no fresh water on Hogan Island.

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Day 5 Hogan Island to Deal Island – 45km Day 6 – Rest Day at Deal Island We set off at 7 o’clock for a more Day 4 Rest Day on Hogan Island leisurely 45km run to Deal Island. Today we were able to get some We got to Winters Cove at 2 o’clock fresh water from the caretakers’ We got up late that morning had and quickly decided this was a cottage. The caretakers were Jo breakfast and went for a walk much better place to spend time and Justin and their seven year old to the lighthouse. We nearly got than Hogan Island. The camp son. Caretakers on Deal Island are blown away by the 70 km per hour site was beautiful. From 8pm to volunteers who live there for three winds. That evening we stood at the 11.30pm the penguins came in. months. They are fantastic people. headland and watched the penguins We had several nights camping come in. among the penguins and watching the dolphins come into the bay at night to fish.

Day 10 Deal Island to Killiecrankie on Flinders Island – Day 7-9 Rest Days at Deal Island 64km We went for a paddle to explore We left Winters Cove, Deal Island at around the Island and I encountered 5.45am. Day 11 Killiecrankie on Flinders a pod of killer whales. They were Island to Roydon Island – 16km within 2-3 metres of my kayak. I often listened to music on the big crossing, which took 12 hours We left Killiecrankie at 11am. We The “Telstra chair” at Deal Island 30 minutes. It was a big day. We then had an easy trip to the sandy has line of sight with the Telstra Paddled to Killiecrankie on Flinders beach on Roydon Island, where mobile tower at Mt Oberon on Island and set up camp for the we stayed in a beautiful hut. The Wilson’s Prom 100km away. There night. We had now completed the hut at Roydon Island was very is also an “Internet Chair” at a third and final big crossing of the well equipped. There were books, higher point on the island that has trip. I wouldn’t say the trip was in clothes, a pair of reading glasses the best reception. the bag – but we were feeling pretty and a bed . confident.

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Day 12 – Roydon Island to Day 14 – Rest Day at Trouser Whitemark (Flinders Island) – Point (Flinders Island) 35km Day 13 Whitemark (Flinders Island) to Trouser Point (Flinders Nicole and Richard went and We left Roydon Island at 11am and Island) – 12km climbed Mt Strzelecki. decided to stop and go ashore for I had a lovely day resting. lunch. We were aiming to have Today we had a big breakfast at dinner at the pub at Whitemark, a Café. I grabbed a new phone to but when we landed at 6.30pm we replace the one I had broken on found out the pub closed at 6pm. Deal Island. We all had plenty of We set up camp and it was my turn food left but we topped up a few to cook. items at the supermarket in town, then we headed to the bakery for a big lunch. We left for Trouser Point at around 3pm, arrived at 5pm, set up our tents and settled in for the evening.

Day 17 – Rebecca Bay (Clark Island) to Swan Island 20km The day started off very windy 30- 40 knots. The wind was going to drop to 20 knots between 2-5pm but Day 15 – Trouser Point (Flinders if we didn’t paddle when we did we Island) to Thunder and Lightning had a good chance of missing the Bay (Cape Barren Island) 26km ferry. We packed up and left at 2pm. We left Trouser Point at 9am and When we started off the conditions headed for Long Island on Cape were ok. As the paddle went on the Barren. The tide was against us. Day 16 – Thunder and Lightning seas got larger and the current got We arrived at 1pm for a quick walk Bay (Cape Barren Island) to Clark stronger. 2km from Swan Island, around the Island. The general Island Rebecca Bay 20km going around the headland, I got hit by a 3-4 metre breaking wave store was open, I bought an ice We left Thunder and Lightning Bay on my right hand side. As I braced cream and some lunch, and then at 8.30am and headed to Rebecca into the wave I got hit by one on my we charged down Long Island Bay (Clark Island). It was a hard left side that took me over. I came Passage. We went around to slog. We arrived 1pm, set up camp out of the kayak. Richard came Thunder and Lightning Bay and and had a rest. found a nice spot to camp although back and lined up next to me. I did it would have been nice to have a a re-entry roll and popped up next few more metres of sand above the to him. We emptied the water out high tide mark, as I found out the of the kayak and paddled 2km to next morning. where we camped for the night. This was the only night of rain for the trip. We were very lucky.

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Day 18 – Swan Island to Little You could do this trip without a We all carried PLBs (Personal Musselroe Bay (Tasmania) 10km GPS, but if you ended up paddling Locator Beacons) in our PFD’s at night or in fog you would wish (Type 2), a waterproof VHF radio I got up around 7am. It was raining you had one. Don’t bother using and a tracking device and flares. for pack up. We all went for a your mobile phone in a waterproof walk to the lighthouse and a look Training case for navigation as the around at the empty caretakers’ touchscreen can be problematic For more than a year leading up accommodation. We left Swan when wet and battery life is poor to the trip I tried to paddle once a Island for Little Musselroe Bay compared to a proper GPS unit. week. This involved fitness work (Tasmania) at 11am, only a 10km on the bay, surf skills, strong paddle, but notorious Banks Strait Mobile Service Telstra only winds, night paddling, self rescues, lived up to its reputation. 30 knot We managed to get mobile service assisted rescues, rolling, towing etc. wind in our face and some intense everywhere we went with the tidal streams just off the tip of Special thanks exception of Little Musselroe Bay Tassie. The 10km took three hours. where it was a 30 minute walk (or 5 To Rosanne for being so supportive, It was a very hard slog. We landed minute drive) to the top of a hill. We my kids for pretending to miss me, at 2pm, I was pretty glad to rip off could normally get enough service everyone else who helped out or the wet kayaking gear knowing that to send and receive text messages loaned me gear. I would also like to I wouldn’t be putting it on again within a few minutes of our camp thank the many paddlers who have the next day. We drove 220km to and we could often make phone provided invaluable advice on Bass Devonport, arrived at 11pm, went calls and access the internet. Strait, both those that I have spoken straight to the hotel and straight into with and those that have posted a hot shower. Only the second one Food their trip reports online. in 19 days. The agreement was to do our own FAQ breakfast and lunch each day, but have communal dinners with each Did you see any sharks? No person providing five three course Did you have a support boat? No. meals for three people. We would We were fully self-sufficient and take it in turns to prepare dinner. carried our own gear. Water Was it really hard? Yes and no. We I drink a fair bit of water so I carried did encounter some challenging quite a lot. When we left Port conditions and we had some long Welshpool I had 26 litres on board days and frustrating headwinds. in case we had to spend a day or Were you scared at any stage? No. two at Hogan Island where there is We had paddled in much tougher no water source that I am aware of conditions as part of our training (there may be a spring somewhere). program. Day 19-20 Davenport and Sydney After we made it to Deal Island I adjusted the amount of water I Did you have any sticky situations, We spent the day looking around carried depending on where we rescues or rolls? Yes Devonport as we were booked on were going and the likelihood of the Spirit of Tasmania at 7.30pm Do you sleep in your kayak? No. getting water there. I always carried and travelled all night. You can make it to an island each a few extra litres in case we ended night The ferry arrived at Port Melbourne up camping short of our destination at 6.30am and I arrived home in and had no source of fresh water for How long is the longest day? It is Sydney at 7pm. the night. Most days I would leave about 64km, twelve and a half hours with 3L in my PFD bladder, 2L made without getting out of the kayak Navigation up with electrolyte and another 10L Wouldn’t it be quicker to go to or so in the boat somewhere. Tassie in a straight line? Yes – and We all used Garmin GPS units. Emergency items there are a few hardcore paddlers These worked very well with no that have done it. I will never be on water ingress, great battery life Plan for the worst – hope for the that list! (2-3 days) and decent visibility in best! Richard carried a home made the sun. They were very useful for fibreglass repair kit in case we Would you do it again? No checking our progress, deviation needed any serious repairs and from the planned route and some gaffa tape for anything minor. What a trip! estimating our arrival times. Fortunately we didn’t hit any rocks.

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Les Allen shares an very well organised professionals had no idea about what was lurking alternative option for Greg only had to do two trips to in the bush nearby. the beach, which reminds me I still paddling in Tasmania, Dinner done, we packed all our owe him some wine for his help. describing a trip from food into the boats and headed off Maybe I could tell him the wine is to bed. Jen brought in a block of Hobart to Bicheno. in WA and he has to come and visit chocolate for an evening snack- us to get it…or maybe not. Anyhow When you think of paddling Yumm. Then we put the little we got away late and headed for Tasmania, people always think Bass bit of chocolate left in the side the Iron Pot at the mouth of the Straight, West Coast or Tasman pocket. About midnight we woke Derwent before heading north Peninsula but there is a low level to a scratching noise and realised towards Sloping Island. As we hidden jewel in Tassie. It’s the something was trying to dig through turned north we came across seals Hobart to Bicheno paddle. This our tent. I shot outside to see a and penguins, neither of which I paddle doesn’t require high level possum trying to get through the was expecting to find here but hey, training or exceptional skills. In fact tent. No problem, I shooed it away it was cute. this trip requires no plan and time to and we removed the chocolate from see the detail if you want to get the After 30km we could see the the pocket. Off to sleep. Sometime most out of it. Group dynamics in all beach we wanted to land on but later Jen woke me again. There was trips are important and this one in out of nowhere a strong headwind a possum on top of our new $1200 particular needs that laid back slow suddenly picked up and built to tent. Well I saw red and leaped out mentality. We set out for our whole 20 knots. It wasn’t forecast for with murderous intent. Possum Tassie experience to be like that that direction and strength, but in gloves were now a must have and to date it certainly has been, this area 200 metres can mean accessory. It leapt from the tent as we have met some wonderful completely different winds as they and scurried away with me after it. I people from the Southern Tribe of funnel around all the high hills and lunged at the possum but it ducked suddenly build up speed. The last sea kayakers. away into the bush, leaving me in 6km took over an hour and a half, the sand looking stupid. I checked Greg the Tassie club president getting us in at 6.30 after a lot of the fly with the torch but it appeared stored our vehicle and looked after swearing. But all good, as it was the to be ok. We had rain forecast for us so we could launch at Kingston perfect beach and we were tucked the next night so that would be the knowing our gear was safe. Being into the corner. Unfortunately we test. Possums are not my favourite

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animal and fortunately we had no with the colours but the contrasts the water giving a sort of brace if further incidents. were brilliant. What we did notice you are tipping that way. It worked were these trails in the grass and enough to stop me going over and The next day we headed for wondered if they were cattle trails. Dunalley and had to get to the I wobbled along till I gained control. As twilight descended all these channel at the tide change so we The good thing was I got the shot. wombats came wandering down the wouldn’t have to push against a 5 The big gauntlet was sucking out trail in front of us, heading for the knot current. We were running a at the end to rocks 30cm out of the paddocks up the hill. Definitely not bit late so we had to really put in water. Timing is everything but as I endangered here. some effort. Well that’s what we was about to go through a big set thought. As we turned around the Day 3 saw us heading round the came through, curled and dumped point the wind started picking up, spit and cruising down a 10km on the rocks. Hmm, loaded new so it was up with the sails. Then beach, stopping in a turquoise bay carbon boat, did I want to risk it? I the wind really started to pick up as for lunch before rounding Cape saw the opportunity but backed off we moved down the funnel. Yahoo! Bougainville, where we came thinking it was too much risk and 24 knots right behind us. We were across caves, rock gardens and then another big set come through flying, three paddle strokes and gauntlets. I started cruising through settling the argument in my head, you’re on, flying down these short the rock gardens under sail with as it broke most of the way through. waves and punching the tops of the paddle in one hand and camera What a hoot though. We spent far waves in front. What a hoot. I love in the other. A couple of sneaky too long playing in this area and my sail. Once through the channel bigger waves hit from the right hand eventually headed off down the we headed for the spit and found a side when I was looking through coast. We came across a deserted beautiful grassy camp site. When the camera. Refocusing on my beach near a river mouth and as it you are from WA and used to sand surroundings I was off balance was getting late we stopped on a and coastal heath for camping this trying to brace one-handed with beautiful elevated sand platform, was luxury. Also the vista, green my paddle across the deck. If the which we later learnt was a bird patchwork hills, turquoise green paddle is across your cockpit you sanctuary. When we walked out and silvery grey water with black just have to push down so the to the point we saw lots of hooded grey or white white clouds on a blue blade hits both sides of the rim. plovers. Jen very carefully set blue background was impressive. With a Greenland paddle the blade out to find a nest, as they just lay Polaroid sun glasses do help extended is automatically flat to their eggs in a small hollow on the

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beach. It didn’t take long to find two headed off to see the convict ruins shells they were all different. I could beautiful spotted eggs. We carefully and explore the island. The ruins not find one with the same pattern backed off so as not to disturb them were great and we could not believe but at first sight they all looked the and headed back to camp. the number of people who lived same. It was kind of enlightening, as I was really enjoying taking this On Christmas day we had a in that area. The other thing that problem. We could not resupply in surprised us was how small the trip slow and looking at the detail. Orford. We had 2 to 3 days food convict cells were. We decided to We have both laughed at so many but were low on water and really walk to the point and came over a little things that I would never have needed food for 6 to 7 days. We small depression only to catch two seen in the past as it was always decided to stay put for the day and wombats in an ‘amorous embrace’. about the goal and not looking head in on Boxing Day. Just by It was like, do you look away, make around. On this trip, to really enjoy chance I checked the weather and it a noise or just stand there? We it, you have to look into where you had changed significantly. We now chose to just stand there and when are. Notice the clouds, colours, had 30 knots of north east winds they finished she walked straight great vistas and incredible wild life. forecast for the next two days. If we up to us and then down her burrow 5am cold and raining. The forecast stayed put we would get blasted so just in front of us. He fluffed around was for 20 knots of head wind and we decided to pack up and head for a while then eventually walked we had 20km to go to Orford for a for Maria Island about 15km away up and down the same burrow. Jen resupply and then another 10km so we could camp in the lee. There immediately asked, “I wonder how after that. Normally the wind is at its was water at the campsite so that many people have seen wombat lowest early in the morning which is problem was solved and we had sex?” But what surprised me was it why we were up at 5am. I opened food for three days but that would was midday and they are nocturnal. the fly and instantly about 20 clean us out completely. About half Maybe they had a big day out mosquitos flew in. We had breakfast way across we were hit by a sudden like our kids do at night-time, and in the rain and when I walked to the strong headwind. Hunker down finished off with sex at midday like boats I discovered that the earth and plod on. Eventually we got some of our kids do at midnight. bank was now a mud bank. As I around the point to Encampment The mind boggles. To top off our climbed down, the rocks we used Cove campground. Bugger. A rock day we saw a Cape Barron Goose for grip were getting covered in landing with a 1.5 metre earth wall and heaps more wombats that mud, making them very slippery. to scramble up. Oh well, not much Ah well, the joys of sea kayaking we could do so I got out early and evening. What we didn’t see was any wind. So much for the forecast. in Tassie. It rained the whole time put some seaweed on the rocks as we packed and then headed to pull my boat up onto. The bank Of course the next day the wind off into a grey smudge. When we had rocks embedded in it so it arrived as promised and it blew 30 packed the tent the mosquitos were wasn’t a major problem getting knots. We spent the day in the lee still inside so I pushed very hard gear and boats up to the grassy flat walking the beaches. We came as I rolled it up. Payback. I like ground with some bushes for wind across one spot where there were kayaking in the rain and was snug protection. Perfect. about 30 of the same beautiful in my boat. The surrounding hills Boxing Day on Maria Island. Hmm, shells. Looking up and down the were a dark grey smudge on a light no wind. Oh well we knew enough beach I could not find a reason why grey smudge. As we rounded the about Tassie to know that could they were all in the one spot. Also headland and headed for Orford the change in a few minutes so we when I looked closely at the wind was only about 12 knots and

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with our sails fully reefed felt we had and not the best day we had We headed off with bright sun in our were getting some assistance even had, as so far we had been spoilt. faces and it was really hot, as we though we were sailing slightly into were dressed for a wet crossing. In the morning we had to make a a head wind. Then it started raining. The sun decision. BOM was forecasting a was still in our face, just rain from About half way to Orford the cloud gale warning, Willy Weather 24 behind. The rain made it nice to gave way to sun and a beautiful knots, Windy 27 to 34 knots. The paddle and we were happy, then the day. Garry Forrest met us at Orford wind graph was vertical from about clouds caught up and it was cold. for a coffee, which was nice, and we an hour’s time. It was the first time Not to worry as the rain stopped headed 10 km further up the bay to we had westerlies forecast and the and it was then humid and warm. a great white beach with grass at next day was head winds. We only Not bad for the first half an hour. the back. There were some people had a 24km easterly crossing to The wind started to pick up, as did camped there so we popped in to Schouten Island so we thought we the wind waves and we were off say hi to our new neighbours. They might get half way before getting and flying. Yahooooo - as the wind told us it was private property and smashed. The campsite was picked up you didn’t even have to that their friend knew the owner, between two hills with a 1km wide paddle to catch some incredible not them. We went down to the channel between the island and rides. Awesome was the word until beach and made camp on the mainland that would funnel the wind beautiful grass. About sunset a the wind started shifting to SW and and the waves, as the water also vehicle arrived at our tent with a strengthening. Jen was starting to gets shallower. Oh well, won’t be gruff sounding bloke saying, “Hello, have trouble with the sail, as she is anyone there?” I climbed out of too bad! is only 60kg and was going to go the tent and asked if he was the owner and shook hands with a stern looking fellow. The best defence is a strong attack so I explained we were from WA paddling the coast and were only staying one night. The stern face disappeared and I got a “Wow, that’s awesome! No problem staying the night – have a great trip.” So far all the Tassie people I’ve met have been great and very laid back. The following day we had slight head winds and a coast of bays and little rocky headlands. Bit of a ho hum day really. We ended up at a river mouth where one of the locals explained the people there hate campers and suggested we camp on an island in the middle of the river. Not the best campsite we had

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over if she didn’t put down her sail. but I didn’t tell her that. I just smiled of the cliffs. What a start to the new The wind just kept increasing. We with my “I’m tough grin”. year. We felt so privileged and the were most of the way across when When we got to shore the beach pictures don’t give you the feeling of the wind started really pumping. was as good as I remembered it, being so close to such high cliffs. To Twice I saw the whole white cap on but last time we had it to ourselves top off the day we had an albatross the big sets get completely blown whereas this time it was almost full just about land on top of us and off so the wind gust had to be well of people. They run a sea taxi from then pose for some pictures. Wow, over 30 knots. To make matters what a day. worse we had to head more across Coles Bay so there were groups of wind to get to the southern shore bushwalkers and campers. Mutter We had three great nights on of the island. As we got closer the mutter, but what could you do? Schouten Island but it was time to waves started to steepen up. The They even have a caretaker who head off for Bicheno. We wandered big sets were only 2.5-3 metres max turned out to be a really nice young up the peninsula and landed but they were so steep I though lady with whom we got on really at Friendly Beaches, which, as well. any minute now one was going to the name suggests, were quite curl and dump. Now it was dodge On New Year’s Eve we climbed friendly to us with a very small the big white cap. Jen was better Bear Hill, which gave us a great surf landing. That evening while at it than me, as twice I got caught view of the coast and Freycinet walking along the beach we were by the big sets. It was a case of Peninsula. That night we were amazed at the number of isopods keeping look out and slowing down invited to join the bushwalkers on the beach. Every beach has or speeding up. But some just came for New Year’s Eve drinks but the macroinvertebrates but this was from nowhere. I looked right and it guys down the road were really amazing. Thirteen days after we was oh shit it’s going to break, it’s getting into it. Check out the orange going to break, then a huge white started we landed at Bicheno. We man in the tutu. Jen got to see the had rung the surf club to see if we cap would pitch forward at shoulder penguins land at about 10.30pm, height. Throw the paddle through could leave the boats there and which was a highlight for her. and hold on. The boat would they kindly agreed to open up for surface like a wobbly submarine New Year’s Day 2018. No wind, no us so we could leave the boats and and you would fall off the back of swell, and the amazing cliff line. The catch a bus for Hobart. By taking the wave. Jen said she saw the big pictures tell the best story but we it slow we had the time to see it all white caps hit me twice and thought played in rock gardens, caves and and what a great trip it turned out I would go over for sure. I did too, could paddle up and touch the base to be.

APRIL 2018 | SALT 41 Me-mel Megan Pryke describes a special place. Matt Bezzina secured the opportunity to land on and visit Goat Island, a privilege that is not readily available to the general public. Traditional owners know it as Me- mel. It is located close to early European settlement, with unobstructed views of the harbourbridge and cityscape. The sparkling harbour reflected clear blue skies as we paddled around the sandstone escarpment perimeter. Most of the island’s shoreline is in its natural state – a contrast to the sea walls that were built to assist boating and shipping access along the mainland shore. Our landing access was via Barneys Cut, which was created with convict labour. The island has many historic buildings. Matt shared local history, stories of convicts and indigenous people with enthusiasm. Seagulls nested openly, demonstrating the lack of feral predators. We completed the paddle with a short trip up a concrete drain where we could easily see substantial darting fish. The Glebe and Balmain area was once a hot spot for heavy industry and has become a place of urban renewal. Sydney harbour is a special place that provides connection to a more natural world. Thank you, Matt, for a grand tour.

NSW SEA KAYAK CLUB | APRIL 2018 42 Limeburners to Khappinghat Like most kayakers, We explored big rivers, broad Our southernmost paddle Terence Uren is constantly lakes, smaller rivers and narrow was on Khappinghat Creek in looking for new places creeks. The big rivers (Hastings and Saltwater National Park. This is to paddle and recently Manning) are open and exposed a straightforward paddle of a few hours that can be extended to the spent a couple of weeks and reportedly riddled with bull sharks. The lakes (Saltwater, Innes, best part of a day with detours to exploring the NSW mid Queens and Watson Taylors) are Duckhole Gully, Belbourie Gully, North Coast. shallow and can develop a short Stick Bay, Moor Creek, Magpie Creek, Koorainghat Creek, Muddy It’s not a particularly welcoming interval chop with strong winds. The Creek, Allard Creek and Rainbow coast for sea kayaking. For smaller rivers and creeks are mostly Creek. example, the point-to-point distance protected, although mosquitoes between Saltwater Point (east of were abundant in a few of the In between were diverse paddles Taree) and Tacking Point (south of creeks. On some of the paddles, on lakes and rivers with plenty Port Macquarie) is approximately opportunities to land were limited of options for side trips featuring 70km but features less than ten by mud, mangroves or high river healthy mangroves, rich reedbeds, beaches, the longest of which is banks. littoral rainforest, paperbarks, casuarinas and eucalypts. Birdlife about 17km. The surf zone is mostly Our northernmost paddle was an was prolific with daily sightings of hundreds of metres wide. It truly is ‘out-and-back’ to Saltwater Lake in a place where kayaking is about kingfishers, herons, egrets, sea Limeburners Creek National Park. approaching distant objects slowly. eagles, kites and osprey, among The lake is rarely visited – it has no others. Three of these paddles It’s not the sort of paddling I find vehicle access and can be reached included some bushwalking. appealing or, if I’m honest, have only by kayak or canoe. After an the confidence to tackle. The area, 8km paddle from Settlement Point, The first walk was to the Innes however, has plenty of protected a narrow creek is entered and Ruins Historic Site. The ruins water options and, with a few followed upstream for 9km to the are the remains of a 22-room friends, I checked out some of lake’s entrance. Getting the tides homestead, bachelor and servant these, clocking up just under 200km right is essential to avoid portaging quarters, a coaching yard and in the course of nine paddles. through mud. The creek is shallow outbuildings that belonged to Major Archibald Clunes Innes. Innes was All were day paddles on flatwater in places and cannot be paddled at an early settler (1830s) who made from base camps at Settlement low tide. There are trees across the his fortune by securing contracts to Point (Port Macquarie), Crowdy Bay creek in about half a dozen places supply the area’s convict settlement National Park (near Laurieton) and and at high tide there is not enough with food. Jones Island (near Taree). All but clearance to paddle under some of two of the paddles launched and these. Tidal lag between Settlement The second was through Cattai landed at the same spot, minimising Point and Saltwater Lake is around Wetlands and adjacent forests the need for car shuffles. five hours. and grasslands. The wetlands are

APRIL 2018 | SALT 43 a significant bird sanctuary with Total paddle distance ~34.0km Point bridge. around 180 species having been Maps: Port Macquarie, Telegraph Total paddle distance ~21.0km recorded there since 2010. Any bird Point Maps: Lorne, Laurieton enthusiast worth their salt should be able to find at least 40-50 species Lake Innes Nature Reserve (Lake Cattai Wetlands (Cattai Creek, in the wetlands and a further Cathie, Cathie Creek, Cowarra Old Wharf Landing, Cattai 20-30 species in the forests and Creek, Lake Innes, Innes Ruins, Wetlands) Perch Hole) grasslands. Start/Finish: Informal boat ramp Start/Finish: Sandy beach to left of The third was through Wingham adjacent to Stone’s Oysters boat ramp off Evans St, Lake Cathie Brush Nature Reserve. The accessed via side track on left Village. reserve is the region’s only known side of Harrington Rd. Turn off continuously occupied grey-headed Total paddle distance ~15.0km Harrington Rd ~200m before bridge flying fox roosting site with the Map: Grants Head over Cattai Creek. population peaking at over 200,000 Total paddle distance ~10.0km FROM CROWDY BAY NATIONAL during the breeding season. PARK Map: Coopernook It wasn’t a wilderness expedition Queens Lake Nature Reserve FROM JONES ISLAND and it wasn’t adrenalin kayaking, (Stingray Creek, Queens Lake, but it was a very pleasant way to Wingham to Croki (Manning Limeburners Creek, Bobs Creek) spend a couple of weeks mucking River) about in boats. Start/Finish: Sandy beach adjacent Start: Boat ramp in Wingham Brush far end eastern picnic area Henry FROM SETTLEMENT POINT Nature Reserve at end of Farquhar Kendall Reserve off Queens Lake St Wingham. Telegraph Point (Wilson River, Rd, Laurieton. Maria River, Torrens Anabranch, Total paddle distance ~22.0km Finish: Boat ramp Croki Riverside Caravan Park, Reid St Croki. Cooperabung Creek) Maps: Laurieton, Grants Head Start/Finish: Sandy beach east Total paddle distance ~34.0km of Old Pacific Hwy bridge over Kendall to Laurieton (Camden Haven River, Batar Creek, Watson Maps: Wingham, Taree, Wilson River at end of Mooney St Coopernook, Cundletown Telegraph Point. [Portage ~120m]. Taylors Lake) Total paddle distance ~19.0km Start: Boat ramp Kendall, adjacent Saltwater National Park Kendall Community boat shed (Khappinghat, Koorainghat and Map: Telegraph Point accessed via unnamed road Magpie Creeks, Duckhole Gully) Limeburners Creek National Park that leaves Kendall Rd on right Start/Finish: Boat ramp in picnic (Hastings River, Limeburners at Y-intersection ~250m before area at end of Saltwater Rd, Creek, Shallow Lagoon, Saltwater bridge over Camden Haven River. Wallabi Pt. [After entering Saltwater Lake) [Intersection marked by three large National Park, bear right at each concrete gum leaves]. Start/Finish: Sandy beach at picnic junction until reaching picnic area area Settlement Point Reserve, Finish: Sandy beach at roadside on left immediately before vehicle end of Settlement Point Road, Port reserve picnic area on Diamond turn around point. Boat ramp is Macquarie [East of ferry]. Head Rd, ~600m before Hanley accessed via a short walkway on the right, opposite the picnic area]. Total paddle distance ~20.0km Map: Hallidays Point Jones Island Circumnavigation (Manning River, Ghinni Ghinni Creek, Lansdowne River) Start/Finish: Boat ramp Croki Riverside Caravan Park, Reid St, Croki. Total paddle distance ~20.0km Maps: Coopernook, Cundletown

- Maps are from the NSW Land and Property Information 1:25000 topographic series -

NSW SEA KAYAK CLUB | APRIL 2018 44 IKW ... International Kayaking Week

Mark Dabbs and Lisa redirected to Okiwi Bay, on the The following days saw us huddled McCarthy are in New way collecting our hire kayaks (two down watching small sea spouts Zealand Shearwaters ) from Sea Kayak being drawn from the ocean. Quite Adventures, an excellent company strong winds, and not encouraging Lisa tells me KASK Kayakfest is on with well-maintained kayaks and for paddling. Many participants and she would love to go. Mmmmm. gear. spent their nights hanging on to Maybe we can squeeze it in two days after our Tasmania kayaking As usual for New Zealand, there tents and tarps trying to stop them trip and just before our two-month was a slight drizzle while attempting becoming airborne. to erect our tent. Our mountain touring trip. No problems! I must admit, Lisa and I were of gear and two week’s food was reluctant to practice rescues, Then she adds...”and kayaking for not going to fit! What to do? Being deterred by watching others who two weeks afterwards would be ever so resourceful, we changed good.” Hey, we make the effort to fly from our tent to a lovely, dry, warm, only managed to stay in the water over from Sydney, we should stay windproof cabin. Slightly soft but for 15 minutes or so before blue longer in a great place! hey, it was great. Especially during lips and fingers set in. Of course, Retirement is so, so hard...fitting the ferocious winds that whipped Australian waters are much everything in! thru a few days later and lasted warmer! Softies I hear you say? most of the week! Everyone was The Icelandic couple out lasted Emails are sent off making KASK most jealous. everyone. enquires and a reply returns...”are you staying on for IKW?” In my The weather for our first best grammar I go “Uhhhh?, what’s section of IKW allowed for that?” one day of paddling out to Otuhaereroa Islands, with A very organised chap called Shaun some lovely rock gardening gets back to us and explains he in an extremely low swell is organising International Kayak on the way. Very little of my Week with the aim of spending kayak was left behind on several days paddling out of Elaine rocks although I did note one Bay in Pelorous Sound followed rock scored well with bits of by a circumnavigation of D’Urville Island. What more enticement did yellow, red and orange plastic we need? Great company, expertly kayak scrapings. The islands planned event and a fantastic area. were good with steep cliffs, We were in, please. numerous rocky shores for playing, and sandy beaches. That was back in October 2017 – A pleasant way to start IKW. we plan a wee bit ahead! After a fantastic Kayakfest(see Lisa’s report), we headed off for IKW. The weather was not looking promising for Elaine Bay so we

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The second part of IKW was doesn’t mean the east was boring. It The group of 12 were split into two hopefully a paddle around D’Urville also has its fair share of interesting for the paddling but regrouped for Island. The gods were smiling on sections. lunches and camping. And what a us. We had four brilliant, calm days Not only were there many, many great bunch of paddlers. Everyone – almost. caves but numerous arches and was very sociable, happy and French Pass apparently has a tunnels. The best tunnel had 4 most welcoming to us from distant reputation for over-falls, eddies, entries. A few tunnels were quite, shores. Lisa and I had expected strong currents, whirlpools and actually, extremely narrow. I some slow starters packing up tents generally lots of “whooshing”. understand there were a few jams, and kayaks each morning but we Baloney! We all had a calm drift another had a very low exit which were entirely wrong. There were through the pass thanks to Shaun’s required timing with the swell to no slouches. We even had Andrea marvelous tide calculations, and make sure you passed under after ready, with spray skirt and PFD helped by a few others. We just the swell passed otherwise you got waiting on the shore while some can’t understand what all the hype squashed against the roof. Yes, were still exiting from their tents. is about. I must admit, during peak most interesting. flow it did look just a little daunting. The IKW was far more than we At the northern end is Hells Gate. expected. It was extremely social, The rock gardening, on calm Another breeze through. We didn’t relaxed, welcoming and lots of seas, was fantastic, sea caves even know we had passed through fun. Shaun did an amazing job spectacular and inviting but the it until days later when discussing organising and running the group. rock cliffs and amazing rock colours our route. Must have been due to were nothing but marvelous. The all of us being exceptional paddlers, We look forward to crossing “the west coast is certainly the pick for but we are too modest to mention ditch” and participating in similar the better side to paddle. But that that! events in the future.

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A German Adrift

Karl Tarantik explains how some things are different and some things are the same. The time had come again to visit our daughter, Melanie, “down under” and to flee the cold German winter. This visit (to be our fourth) we were keen to do what we most The East Frisian islands in the Wadden Sea love - sea kayaking. Melanie had already joined the NSW Sea Kayak Club, so Helene and I decided to become members as well. We were hoping that the Club would give with some stopovers along the are a favourite place for sea us opportunities to discover new way and around 25 kilometres; on kayakers to paddle. The islands are places and to meet fellow paddlers Sunday we would go in the opposite located within the North Sea in a and locals with the same passion direction to Point Perpendicular and nature reserve called the Wadden as us. back exploring the coves, caves Sea World Heritage Area. The Our first Club trip was with the and rock gardens on offer – overall island of Spiekeroog has a beautiful regular Friday Oandora paddle led a distance of approximately 19 nature campground on its western by Owen Kimberley. Everyone was kilometres. We retired to our tent for side which is a good base for sea very friendly and welcomed us into the night with the instruction from kayaking activities. There are no the group. We had a great paddle, Neil to assemble at the put-in ready cars, camper vans or powered sites; which started from Clontarf, and for a pre-trip briefing at 8:30am (our only tents. The distance from the gave us a fantastic tour around meeting time for the Sunday paddle mainland to the campground on Sydney Harbour. We joined the also was 8:30am!). the island is approximately eight group the following Friday as well kilometres. Our experiences with the NSW and this time we ventured towards So how do you get to the North Head, crossed to South Head Sea Kayak Club to this point were beginning to highlight one of island? You can best launch the and then continued towards Shark kayaks from Neuharlingersiel – Bay and back. the big differences between sea kayaking here compared to what approximately 165 kilometres to Next, we signed up to a weekend we experience in Germany. It is a the north west of Hamburg. Okay, paddle with Neil Gow at real bonus when you can decide on should we start at 8:30 am? You can give it a try however there is Honeymoon Bay. We met Neil and a starting time for a paddle in this a good chance that you will only Adrian Clayton at the campsite on neck of the woods without too many the Friday evening after, for us, a see mud and your only option for other considerations. long and tiring drive from Sydney. the crossing would be to walk (you We discussed the plans for the Planning a sea kayaking trip in actually can!) or, alternatively, you weekend: Saturday’s paddle was Germany is very different. For might find yourself paddling across to be a round trip to Callala Bay example, the East Frisian Islands a very strong current. Checking

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Left to Right: The camp site on the island of Spiekeroog; Helene has arrived too late – she has to walk!; Helene and Karl at Black Boat Cove, Jervis Bay; Karl in Jervis Bay the tide predictions and weather Sea, where you can say “let’s meet Issue number 155 is soon to hit the forecast as part of the planning is tomorrow at 8:30am”. press. essential. Also, if paddling with a Another major difference between We also hold an annual event group, you’d best be ready to depart sea kayaking here and Germany is similar to Rock ’n’ Roll. Our event is on time because nobody will wait the water temperature. For much of for you! known as Annual Sea Kayak Week the year there it is very low – getting and it alternates between locations When you are planning to down to 3⁰C in February. This in the Baltic Sea and the North circumnavigate the East Frisian means we wear dry suits a lot of Sea. Approximately 150 members islands it gets even more difficult the time when we go sea kayaking gather with a smattering of guests because there other things you to give us some extra survival time from nearby countries. This year have to consider in addition to should we find ourselves having an the event is being held in August the tide (with a range of up to four unplanned swim. on the island of Hooge which is metres) and the strong flows it on the edge of the North Sea and generates (sometimes reaching four Apart from the effect of the tides and very cold water, sea kayaking just below the southern border of knots) as it funnels between the Denmark. islands: in Germany has much in common with what happens here. Many of - big surf and breaking waves on the We also have a hierarchy of us paddle similar kayaking brands ocean side of the islands paddling qualifications. The like here in Australia – Valley, NDK, scheme is run by Salzwasser - high-volume shipping traffic P&H and Tiderace are imported; Union and roughly parallels your (Hamburg is one of the world’s Prijon and Lettman are local brands. own scheme. For instance our A busiest ports) We’ve noticed that many people level paddler aligns with the BCU - tidal watersheds (area between in the NSW club paddle with wing 3 Star award which, in turn, aligns island and coast where two tidal paddles but in Germany about 70% with your Sea Skills award. Below streams merge, and water depth is of kayakers use Greenland paddles. A level we have RST (Regionales minimal due to the sandbar which One other difference is that all Sicherheits Training, Local safety develop from the tidal streams) kayaks have to be named when training), which is similar to the - a lot of regulations and restrictions they are used on official waterways. NSWSK Club’s Grade 2. B level for where and when you are My kayak is called Irgendwie and is a leadership award, C1 is an allowed to paddle! Helene’s kayak is called Sowieso – instructor award which allows the that is a title of a Bavarian cult film All of this means you have to be holder to instruct and assess up (Irgendwie und Sowieso). diligent and do your homework to RST level; C2 instructors can before you can start! Nevertheless, We have our own “club”, instruct and assess up the higher it is worth it. The Wadden Sea is Salzwasser Union (Saltwater levels. beautiful and there is lots to see and Union), with approximately 1,200 If my Salzwasser Union colleagues discover. members. It was established in learn of me writing this article for 1985. Fortunately for us, there are Salt they’ll probably ask me to do other places to sea kayak The Union publishes a quarterly something similar for Seekajak. I’m comparatively close to home like magazine Seekajak with a similar expecting to get some good stories the Mediterranean Sea or the Baltic format and page extent to your Salt. at Rock ’n’ Roll!

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Kayaking in the Gulf Islands - Vancouver Island

The tiny Cabin Bay campsite – Peter at picnic table with a view. With thanks to the currents available. With the place Kiwi Association of Sea names being unfamiliar, you do Kayakers and Margot Syms need to spend a bit of time studying it. on the tiny white shelly beaches for sharing the article associated with islets. The rocky (from NZ Sea Kayaker No. Hazard No 2 is boat traffic. This parts of the latter were often home ranges from fizz boats and other 191 October-November to Harbour Seals with their pups at pleasure craft, through ferries 2017) this time of year. These have had - sized from 32 to 370 vehicle to find a niche among the privately- The Gulf Islands between capacity, to great logging barges owned land as well, but do seem to Vancouver Island and mainland 50m by 12m towed by tug boats. be thriving. It pays to know where British Columbia are popular with There is an “app” to view shipping the campsites are and to carry fresh kayakers, boaties, and island movements live, and there is water that will last you for a day or dwellers. You can do your own trip extensive cell-phone coverage. two. Marine park campsites vary in these enclosed sheltered waters Instead we opted for the ferry with a little local knowledge of what timetables and vigilance. but usually contain one or more to be careful about. of:- picnic tables, wooden sleeping Hazard No 3 is private ownership. platforms (useful for keeping your Hazard No 1 is currents. In the British Columbia was obviously gear off the dirt if nothing else), narrow passages these can get up a little slow in realising the toilet, potable water pump. to 8 knots or more with associated recreational potential of the Gulf eddies, so it pays not to be in the Islands, and so the percentage of We started at Nanaimo where we wrong place at the wrong time. the area in parks is rather small. could hire a double kayak and Even wide channels can get up to 1 With no ‘Queen’s Chain’ and private launch it right there. We were knot, but if you expect this it at least owners being rather possessive, provided with a kayak trolley for makes your lack of progress less it can be hard to find somewhere the asking. With six days at our frustrating. There is a reasonably to stop and have lunch. We often disposal, and having to return the priced annual book of tides and stopped in the inter-tidal zone, or kayak to the same point, we did not

APRIL 2018 | SALT 49 have enough time to visit the SE Day 2 we paddled SE along Ruxton In the morning, while using the islands of the group, so we stopped Island then used rocky islets as sleeping platform as a chart short of having to cross where the stepping stones to cross to Thetis table – a good use – I managed shipping is busiest. Island as this way it was easier to to spill a full cup of tea over the maps. Actually, Murphy must We set off on a fine morning in keep an eye out for boat traffic. We have been asleep because while July, in fact we did not see a drop had lunch on the inter-tidal zone the waterproof map got covered, of rain all trip. We crossed to at the end of Thetis Island, with a the paper marine chart escaped. Gabriola Island, timing it to avoid visit from a Great Blue Heron – the Said map got rinsed off, hung up the large ferry coming and going largest heron in North America, and and was soon dry and none the from Duke Point en route. Although 30% bigger than our White Heron. Then we paddled by Kuper Island worse for wear. We paddled along we were surprised by how quickly Wallace Island and across to the a tug plus log barge emerged and on to the long thin Wallace Island which is entirely marine very large Saltspring Island, and not much behind us at one point. stopped at one of the few feasible Rather than go around the outside park. We had been recommended Chivers Point camp, the first one stopping places, Walker Hook, with of Gabriola Island into a brisk SE a lovely long sandy beach. A bloke we came to, but the presence of wind we opted for the inside route. was camping at one end. From a 10-kayak tour group did take Initially the route followed limestone Saltspring we had to cross the the gloss off it. The leader told us cliffs with nesting shags, but then passage to Prevost Island, which about the nearby Cabin Bay camp degenerated into rafts of logs and was rather busy in the middle of which we were unaware of, so we an industrial atmosphere. Lunch the day, as to the south of here are pressed on. And what a beautiful was at the only available landing, some major centres. We arrived at an unprepossessing slippery boat wee camp it is, two sites only, all our camp in James Bay at near low ramp. Its one blessing was that it to ourselves, picnic tables but no tide to find the expected expanse was sheltered from the wind. We water or toilet – a sign said that the of mud and weed. After trudging were keen to be on our way and toilet was located a short 10-minute ashore with the gear, we used a slack high water was a wee while walk away at Chivers Point. Yeah combination of sliding and wheeling off, so we chose False Narrows right. In this area they like you to the kayak to get above the high because it has half the current of use the wooden sleeping platforms tide line. This camp is sited in an Dodd Narrows. As it was some provided, but these are hard, too old orchard, with a large grassy vigorous paddling was required. small and pegging out the tent is area, and a couple of elevated sites We finally arrived at Pirates Cove awkward. So we camped on the with one picnic table. There is a camp on De Courcy Island, a lovely wee beach, watched the tide come composting toilet but no water. We elevated site looking south which almost to the end of the tent and had lunch and a lazy afternoon, we shared with two women. Bats believed the tide tables that the with the place to ourselves. Having were flying at dusk. night tide would be lower. thought we knew the ferry routes,

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we were a little surprised to see rock hairdo always flitting ahead of was room to spread out beyond a small ferry pass by, and later to us, making a photo difficult. After the designated camping area. By pass back again. lunching in the intertidal of a small the time the ranger arrived in the cove, we decided to return to the We made an early start next morning, the place had thinned out gem of Cabin Bay again for the morning because we wanted to considerably. night. En route we visited the south cross to Montague Harbour before camp on Wallace Island which No need for an early start as we the boaties were out in force, and adjoins a boat anchorage and is had to wait for slack low water in also so we could launch at high notorious for raccoons – possum the afternoon to get through the tide. In fact, we saw only one boat sized, adroit, bold scavengers with narrows. We had a leisurely lunch during our crossing! Montague sweet little striped faces. Harbour, however, was packed with in the intertidal between two islands boats, and when I asked the couple A revisit of Pirates Cove for our but had to keep an eye out that we on a launch if they knew the long- last night would put us in a good did not get stranded by the dropping range forecast, I was told they did position for returning to Nanaimo tide. While making lunch, Peter not know and that they had been the following day. We checked out had a difference of opinion with a sitting there in the harbour for three the camp on Tent Island, which is on visiting dog over who he was cutting days! On to our first call, the shop, First Nations’ land not in a marine up salami for. When loud barking where we did find a forecast and park. It is a pleasant spot, but a started, we were informed by the could have an ice cream. The lady notice made it clear that you need owner on the beach that “he never serving commented “ice cream for to book in advance. Along the west barks”. Then later something about breakfast”, to which Peter, not one coast of Kuper Island, we had to “an attitude problem”. We quite to naturally spring out of bed at wait for the ferry to pass twice. This agreed, the dog had the wrong dawn, replied indignantly “breakfast side of Thetis Island is quite pretty. attitude towards kayakers having was hours ago”. Next we visited Back across our stepping stones to lunch. Onwards, and we opted the marine park camp to restock arrive at a rather different Pirates for False Narrows again as the with fresh water. We walked up to Cove from a few days before. the tap with a friendly boatie who Admittedly it was the weekend, boat traffic returning through Dodd was going to fill his solar shower. but by the time two kids’ summer Narrows, which has more depth at Interestingly the same amount of camps and a few small groups had low tide, on a Sunday afternoon fresh water was going to last us for arrived there were 19 single and 7 did not appeal. The crossing from two days. We paddled along the double kayaks on the beach. That Gabriola Island to Nanaimo was rugged coast of Galiano Island, with made about three times the number busy but no problem as everyone a Belted Kingfisher with its punk- of tents than camp sites, but there seemed to be alert.

Left to right: James Bay- having arrived, the hard work of getting between the low and high tide lines began; The tiny Cabin Bay campsite - having rejected the sleeping platforms we squeezed the tent onto the beach just above high water.

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It would be fun to go through www.wavelengthmagazine. 5. Recorded weather forecasts for Gabriola Passage and/or Porlier com/2011/11su/11su_legfour.html two days available by phone 250- Pass, but these have to be timed 245-8899. Cell phone coverage. Kayak Routes of the Pacific carefully as slack-water currents good. Northwest Coast by Peter McGee. below 0.5 knots can last for as Chapter 4 The Gulf Islands, P63 to Map and images by Peter & Margot little as 15 minutes. Once through 80. You can preview most of this Syms. you have the option to paddle on chapter on books.google.co.nz/ the Strait of Georgia coasts of books?isbn=192681214X the islands. There are a couple of camps out there. The passages 4. Maps - Marine chart 3442 can get quite busy because of the North Pender Is to Thetis Is, and Below clockwise from top: James Bay short duration of slack water. We 3443 Thetis Is to Nanaimo; both at dusk – boaties enjoying a paddle; were surprised to see a tug towing 1:40,000. San Juan and Gulf Harbour Seals on an islet – mum a huge logging barge emerge from Islands Nautical and Recreational keeping an eye on passers-by; Peter Porlier Pass, and one towing two Planning Map, approx 1:100,000. All relaxing on the shell beach of an islet near Thetis Island waiting for a small barges in tandem from Gabriola available at marine and chart shops. ferry to pass. Passage. Useful Information: 1. Alberni Outpost supplied our hire kayak from their Departure Bay adventure centre, and also sell kayak and other outdoor gear online and from their stores in Courtenay and Nanaimo. www.albernioutpost. com 2. BC Ferries timetables and routes www.bcferries.com/schedules 3. Web sites with interesting info about paddling and camping in the Gulf Islands kayakrogue.wordpress. com/tag/camping-in-the-gulf- islands/ britishcolumbia.com/things-to-do- and-see/parks-and-trails/vancouver- island-bc-islands/

NSW SEA KAYAK CLUB | APRIL 2018 Neil Gow breaking out through the surf on a Jervis Bay trip (Image - Adrian Clayton)