DOCSLIB.ORG

Koje Dobre Šuze! Šetnja Kroz Povijest Obuæe, Eljeli Smo Pokazati Razlièita Znaèenja Koja Cipela Ima U Èovjekovom Ivotu

Total Page：16

File Type：pdf, Size：1020Kb

Download full-text PDF Read full-text
Koje Dobre Šuze! Šetnja Kroz Povijest Obuæe, �Eljeli Smo Pokazati Razlièita Znaèenja Koja Cipela Ima U Èovjekovom �Ivotu 4 6/7 Uvod 8/9 O tragovima {ZLATKO MILEUSNIÆ} 21 Obuæa u razdoblju od ranog srednjeg vijeka do poèetka 20. stoljeæa {NADJA MAGLICA} 49 Obuæarski obrt i rukotvorstvo {VESNA ZORIÆ} 73 Znaèenje obuæe u seoskim zajednicama u Hrvatskoj {AIDA BRENKO} 111 Obuæa u dvadesetom stoljeæu {AIDA BRENKO / VESNA ZORIÆ} ENGLISH TEXTS 132 Introduction 133 On Traces {ZLATKO MILEUSNIÆ} 139 Footwear in the Period From the Early Middle Ages to the Beginning of the 20th Century {NADJA MAGLICA} 148 Shoemaking Crafts and Handicrafts {VESNA ZORIÆ} 156 Footwear and its Meaning in Rural Communities in Croatia {AIDA BRENKO} 169 Footwear in {AIDA BRENKO / VESNA ZORIÆ} 177 LITERATURA 5 IZLOBOM koje dobre šuze! šetnja kroz povijest obuæe, eljeli smo pokazati razlièita znaèenja koja cipela ima u èovjekovom ivotu. Štiteæi nogu od klimatskih nepogoda ili opasnog terena obuæa je tijekom povijesti postala sastavni dio èovjekova ivota pa nam njezina povijest otkriva i dio povijesti èovjeèanstva. Vrsta i naziv materijala od kojeg je obuæa napravljena, njezin oblik i ukras ili naèin izradbe, daju nam niz podataka za razumi- jevanje kulturnih, gospodarskih i politièkih prilika u odreðenom razdoblju. Zahvaljujuæi vanjskim znacima, obuæa postaje simbol identiteta – spol- nog, dobnog, vjerskog, profesionalnog ili etnièkog. Zbog toga su tijekom povijesti èesto donošeni propisi o naèinu obuvanja pojedinih kategorija stanovništva, bilo u obliku zakon- skih odredbi ili nepisanih, ali od zajednice sankcioniranih pravila. Njihov je osnovni cilj bio odravanje staleških, vjerskih i nacionalnih razlika ili pak dobnih i spolnih. Velik broj zakona koji se odnosio na obuæu imao je i ekonomsku podlogu poput onih iz skupine leges sumptuarie, dakle protiv luksuza. S prvim graðanskim revolucijama propisi koji potjeèu iz prethodnih ureðenja postaju bespredmetni, a obiljeavanje razlika poprima drugaèije oblike. Društvena elita mogla je ostvariti svoju ekskluzivnost iskljuèivo robom vrhunske kvalitete i sezonskim promjenama mode. Današnji razvoj industrije i dizajna kao i razvoj trgovaèke mree otvaraju široke moguænosti pa svatko moe izabrati onu obuæu koja slui zadovoljavanju njegovih potreba, a u skladu s ekonomskim moguænostima, dobi, društve- nim poloajem i osobnim estetskim mjerilima. Izloba prikazuje povijesni razvitak obuæe, od arheoloških nalaza preko stilskih razdoblja do suvremenog dizajna, kao i razvitak obuæe sa stanovišta izradbe. Pri tome se misli na naèin izradbe obuæe za vlastite potrebe ili potrebe ue obitelji, do pojave obrtnika i postolarskih cehova, manufakture i tvornièke proizvodnje. Takoðer je predstavljena i vrijedna graða Etnografskog muzeja koja pri- pada razdoblju konca 19. i poèetka 20. stoljeæa. U tom je vremenu, upravo obuæa bila jedan od glavnih pokazatelja gospodarskih, društvenih i kulturnih promjena koje su se dogaðale u seoskim zajednicama. Nastojali smo prikazati i dostupnu izvaneuropsku graðu. Valja istaæi i prvu industrijsku obuæu proizvedenu u Hrvatskoj, u "Bo- rovu", tvornici nastaloj nacionalizacijom predratne "Bate". Ta je obuæa tijekom 20. stoljeæa bila najprepoznatljivija ne samo u Hrvatskoj veæ i na podruèju bivše Jugoslavije. Na izlobi su predoèeni primjerci namjenjeni najširim društvenim slojevima. Zbog mnogovrsnosti obuæe ona je podijeljena u više zasebnih cjelina. Na- stojali smo je predoèiti u vremenskom slijedu, ali istodobno istièuæi njezine funkcije. Uloga obuæe u uèvršæivanju društvenih odnosa i stvaranju društvenih identiteta i vrijednosti i danas je izraeno što potvrðuje i izloena kultna obuæa pojedinih alternativnih skupina iz druge polovice 20. stoljeæa. Dio izlobe posvetili smo obuæi u svijetu simbola. U mnogim je kultura- ma odnos prema cipeli i nozi povezan s fetišizmom. Imelda Marcos krije se u mnogim enama, a muškarci reagiraju gotovo uvjetnim refleksom na pojavu ene u visokim peta- ma. Simbolièko znaèenje obuæe izvrsno oslikavaju i bajke u kojima èarobna obuæa najèešæe predstavlja medij za ulazak u drugi svijet. S obzirom na opsenost i sloenost teme, naravno da nismo iscrpili sve ono što obuæa predstavlja, ali smo pokušali ukazati na njezinu ulogu i znaèenja tijekom povijesti. Buduæi da je noga bila osobito znaèajna za èovjekov opstanak, vidimo da je tijekom povijesti i u svim kulturama upravo funkcija obuæe istaknutija od oblika. U stvari, svaki je dizajn obuæe vrlo star. 7 Zlatko Mileusniæ O tragovima O TOME KAKO SU I ÈIME LJUDI U PRAPOVJESNO DOBA štitili stopala od studeni, vlage ili nepogodna tla, nema odgovora na koji se ne bi moglo postaviti još po koje pitanje. Odgovoriti na pitanje kada se to zbilo, premda se èini jednostavnijim, jednako je zam- ršeno pa i danas predstavlja pravu interdisciplinarnu pustolovinu. Povjesne discipline tim pitanjima pristupaju razlièito pa su takvi i odgovori. U ovome prikazu bit æe rijeèi o obuæi, njezinim oblicima, mijenama, kao i naèinima kojima su nastajali i smjenjivali se stilovi u njezinu dugom povjesnom razdoblju. Dvije su vrste izvora koje pri tome slijedimo. Jedni sadre obavijesti iz slikovnih prikaza i pisanih svjedoèanstava. Drugi su arheološki nalazi ostataka obuæe, izvorna svjedoèanstva što sadre i odgovore na pitanja koja tek valja postaviti, a danas podvrgnuti analizi uz primjenu suvremenih znanstvenih postupaka, mijenjaju saznanja o njezinu mjestu u kulturnoj povijesti. U slikovnim prikazima ljudi, obuæa se razabire veæ u razdoblju paleoli- tika, pred priblino 15.000 godina. S obzirom na alate kojima se èovjek kamenoga doba sluio, bila je to jednostavna i praktièna obuæa naèinjena od koa oderanih ivotinja. Za stopalo se dri obavijena konatim remenjem; remenèiæima provuèenim izmeðu nonih prstiju i uèvršæenim u potplat ili pak remenjem provuèenim kroz proreze uz obod njegova uzvinutoga ruba koji se potom obavijaju oko noge od glenja naviše. Ovome posvuda raširenom tipu najjednostavnije jednodjelne obuæe, pripadaju i naši opanci, što su se u brojnim suvrsticama odrali sve do danas. Meðutim takva obuæa see u još dalju prošlost koju ne odreðuju njezini materijalni tragovi, veæ tragovi što ih je ona ostavila na stopalu suvremenoga èovjeka. Amerièki antropolog Erik Trinkaus, baveæi se komparativnim prouèavanjem fosilnih ostataka èovjeka i interpretirajuæi varijacije u anatomiji ljudskoga stopala, zakljuèio je da 1 Postolarska radionica; detalj sa slabljenje kostiju nonih prstiju nije stupanj u evoluciji èovjeka kako se to dosada sma- oslikane vaze. tralo, veæ da je takvo slabljenje posljedica nošenja obuæe te da je zapoèelo veæ pred 26- 30.000 godina, a u hladnijim predjelima Euroazije i mnogo ranije. Prethodna strana: 2 Model èizme, Sarvaš. AMZ 7894. Prema tom su razdoblju materijalni ostaci najstarije obuæe relativno mladi. Do danas najstariji nalaz obuæe ranoga èovjeka potjeèe sa sjeverozapada sjeverno- 9 amerièkoga kontinenta, a starost joj je procjenjena u rasponu od 9000 do 11000 godina. Rijeè je o preko 70 sandala pronaðenih 1938. godine u oregonskoj spilji Fort Rock. Naèinjene su od drvenaste biljke Artemisia tridentata koja i danas u tom sušnom dijelu Sjedi- njenih amerièkih drava obilno raste. Indijanci su njezinu savitljivu koru i u suvremeno doba koristili pri pletenju vreæa i košara. U sliènoj, jednako suhoj mikroklimi spilje Arnold Research u Missouriju uz 16 pari raznolike obuæe naèi- njene od listova biljke Eryngium yuccifolium, pronaðena su i dva para konate obuæe za koje je ustanovljena starost u rasponu od 1070 do 8300 godina. Stalna suha klima Judejske pustinje u blizini Jerihona, jednog od najstarijih gradova na svijetu, èuvala je 6000 godina ostatke ratnika. Sahranjen je uz bogate grobne priloge i s konatim sandalama. Sluèajan nalaz smrznutog bronèanodobnog èovjeka podno ledenjaka Similaun u junotirolskim Alpama, rujna 1991. godine, proširio je mnoge spoznaje o ivotu èovjeka prije 5300 godina. U broj od sedamdesetak predmeta što ih je "Ledeni èov- jek" imao uza se u trenutku smrti ubrojena je i njegova obuæa. Premda loše oèuvana, anal- izom je ustanovljeno da pripada tipu jednodjelne obuæe iako je sastavljena od medvjeðe i srneæe koe. U unutarnjem dijelu pronaðeni su i ostaci biljnih vlati što su dodatno štitile stopalo od studeni. Na našem podruèju nema arheoloških nalaza tako stare obuæe. Meðutim, izgled obuæe u priblino istom razdoblju eneolitika predoèuje nam fragment keramike, vjerojatno statue iz Sarvaša što se èuva u Arheološkom muzeju u Zagrebu. Na njemu je veoma jasno i s više detalja modelirana obuæa u obliku èizme što see po prilici do pola lista. Uz rubove potplata i straga, oko njegova uspravljenoga petnog dijela, istièe se uska profilacija u obliku sitnih rombova, a sprijeda i straga po sredini te djelomice i oko grla, oblikovani su nizovi nalik na petljice èime je predoèeno spajanje dijelova. Grlo èizme obavijeno je tankom uzicom pa se moe pretpostaviti da se njome vezivanjem uèvršæivao gornji, labaviji dio èizama naèinjen moda preplitanjem sukna, pletiva ili omekšane koe. Obuæa naèinjena prema ovom modelu, po svojoj bi se izvedbi posve uklopila u najranije oblike jednodjelne obuæe na podruèju Europe. Spomenuti primjeri pronaðene obuæe potvrðuju pravilo da se ona, kao i slièni predmeti organskoga podrijetla mogla oèuvati jedino pri ujednaèenim klimatskim uvjetima. Uz to idu u prilog èesto naglašavanoj pretpostavci da se èovjek za njihovu izrad- bu sluio materijalom s kojim je svakodnevno mogao biti u dodiru jer je obuæu zbog nje- zina kratka vijeka valjalo èesto obnavljati, a iznošenu odbaciti kao staru cipelu. I danas se u mnogim podruèjima Europe, Afrike, June Amerike, u zemljama Bliskog i Dalekog Istoka odravaju nepromijenjene tehnike
Load more

Recommended publications
  • Gulfstream – Nonstop
    VOLUME 02 EDITION 2012 LUXE KICKS DESTINATION DUBAI FLY-BY-WIRE Sole Men Bespoke Italian shoes hit their stride By LIz GroSSMAn fter starring in a span of criti- Bontoni’s standard of craftsman- cally acclaimed films in the ’90s, ship ranks among the highest of any Daniel Day-Lewis disappeared bespoke Italian shoemaker. from the public eye. From 1999 to 2000, the eccentric, reclusive actor wasn’t preparing for a role; rather he was holed up as a dili- gent apprentice at a cobbler’s studio in Florence, Italy. His mentor? Master shoemaker Stefano Bemer, who passed away in July. Bemer handcrafted bespoke men’s shoes with waxed, handwoven flat laces; used calf or exotic leathers like crocodile, stingray, sharkskin or ostrich; and sent the finished work of art to his clients in a monogrammed wooden box. Throughout his life, the shoe- maker taught other celebrities like Andy Garcia and designer Gianfranco Ferré the art of measuring, cutting, stitching and constructing bespoke men’s shoes. But it was Day-Lewis who showed up at 8 a.m. daily for almost a year, and reportedly became disturbed when a stitch wasn’t exactly right. Day-Lewis, also an avid woodworker, may very well have an eye for craftsman- ship, but chances are Bemer helped fuel his passion for shoemaking. A legend in the shoes are still turned out of a tiny bottega in aspect of the shoe, from the height of bespoke world of Italian shoes, Bemer’s the town of Montegranaro, located in the the heel, to the design of the medallion, devotion and talent will be sorely missed, Le Marche region of east-central Italy.
    [Show full text]
  • An American Identity: Shoemaker's Labels in Colonial
    AN AMERICAN IDENTITY: SHOEMAKER'S LABELS IN COLONIAL. REVOLUTIONARY AND FEDERAL AMERICA, 1760-1820 by Meaghan M. Reddick A Thesis Submitted to the Graduate Faculty of George Mason University in Partial Fulfillment of The Requirements for the Degree of Master of Arts History of Decorative Arts Committee: ~~~~ ___ ---lCL~~-~·~~·~.."""""-_'~7'l""'------Program Director .:~'..:.:l,':'.~~., .:~»::::~ ..,. Department Chairperson ~s:, Ywyh Dean, College of Humanities and Social Sciences Date: A OR-I I ~O I d-O I f Spring Semester 2014 , George Mason University Fairfax, VA An American Identity: Shoemaker’s Labels in Colonial, Revolutionary and Federal America, 1760-1820 A Thesis submitted in partial fulfillment of the requirements for the degree of Master of Arts at George Mason University by Meaghan M. Reddick Bachelor of Arts Hollins University, 2008 Director: Mary D. Doering, Adjunct Professor Department of History of Decorative Arts Spring Semester 2014 George Mason University Fairfax, VA Copyright: 2014 Meaghan M. Reddick All Rights Reserved ii DEDICATION To my husband, Danny, Who has never been in doubt about who I was, and where I was going. Thank you for giving me the world, every single day. Daniel Patrick and Ashby Thomas, my sons, who I hope will be proud of me when they look back on my life. My parents, Paul and Suzanne Devlin, my sister Bronwyn, Who have watched me grow patiently, allowed me to thrive and supported my dreams from the beginning. To Ebenezer Breed, To whom I hope my research did him justice as a patriot And advocate of the American shoe industry. To future shoe historians, I hope this research inspires you to look “beyond the label”.
    [Show full text]
  • 1. Tradition Why Do the Church Bells Ring at Noon?
    1. Tradition Why do the church bells ring at noon? a) It is a call for everybody to be on time for lunch b) In the Orthodox Church the service at noon is the most important c) The bells ring at noon as a sign of joy in memory of the victory over the Ottomans d) The first Orthodox church bell in Serbia was heard at noon and this tradition is being kept up 2. Inventions Who invented the neon lamp? a) Mihajlo Pupin b) Nikola Tesla c) Thomas Edison d) George Westinghouse 3. Tradition When do Serbians and Montenegrins celebrate Christmas? a) January 7th b) December 24th c) January 1st d) January 13th 4. Language Why Montenegro is called “Montenegro”? a) It is the country of the pitch black gorges b) Here, the Romans let only African slaves fight each other c) Many wars had left many widows, whose black clothing gave the country its name d) Because there is so many olive trees 5. Food and Drink What is Sljivovica made of? a) Plums b) Grapes c) Figs d) Peaches 6. Religion How do Serbians and Montenegrins make the sign of the cross? a) With three fingers b) With the palm c) With the index finger d) With index finger and thumb 1 Die Leuchtbox ein Projekt der Stadt Passau Organisation und Durchführung ICUnet.AG , Copyright © 2003-2006 7. Cities What is the capital of Montenegro? a) Cetinje b) Niksic c) Kotor d) Podgorica 8. Geography How many kilometers long is the Danube in Serbia? a) 588 km b) 5088 km c) 58 km d) 388 km 9.
    [Show full text]
  • Page. CLAIMS of the PRINCIPLE of RPTATION of TURBINE ONE
    Page. CLAIMS OF THE PRINCIPLE OF RPTATION OF TURBINE ONE. What to claim is: 1. Rotation is obtained of the cross axial and axial bearing mounted turbine rotors, by shielding the returnblades partially or completely and uncovering the pushblades partially or completely. 2. Rotation of horizontal and vertical mounted rotor operable in bearings comprising at least three rotor blades radial and axially projecting its form expending from the hub. Cross-axial rotation of turbine rotors by means of shielding vane, or wind screen shielding the return blades partially or completely and uncovering the pushblades partially or completely for fluid to be channelled cross axially trough the intakes and impact coaxial and horizontally on the transverse projecting turbine rotor blades causing rotation of the prime mover, drivetrain by the converting kinetic energy into mechanical energy and into electric energy by means of a constant transmission turbine gearbox and lubricant system mechanical coupled in rotational mode with the electric generator rotor, comprising a cylindrical permanent or electromagnet coupled electrically to the exciter electrically connected with the disk magnet and axially opposing stator coils or disk or plates or massive electric conductive material disk or cylinder. 3. Rotation of the horizontal and vertical turbine rotor is obtained in clockwise direction and in counterclockwiswise direction. Generating AC current or dc current. Defines the rotor by at least two axial halves exposed axially for cross-axial flow axial flow and/or for perpendicularly flow turbine rotors. A left and right axial halve, or upper and lower axial halve which form the returnblades section and the pushblades intake and exhaust sections.
    [Show full text]
  • This Document Was Submitted in Support of An
    This document was submitted in support of an entry into the SCA Arts & Sciences competition known as “Ice Dragon” held April 14, 2018, in the Barony of the Rhydderich Hael (see http://www.ice­dragon.info/) . Many thanks to the individuals who judged this and all entries and provided feedback on them, as well as to those who organized and staffed the event. Further related material can be found on the web at http://shoesbyrobert.com/shoeswp/projects/a­pair­of­black­and­whites/ Copyright 2018 by Ken Stuart (Lord Robert of Ferness), except for the illustrations, which are cited from their original sources. The author may be contacted at k [email protected] with questions, comments, etc. Decorated Viking Age Turnshoes for Court Categories Leatherworking and Accessories: non­textile. (Also, Special 5­in­1 for Leatherworking, Accessories: non­textile, Heraldic Display, Needlework: embroidery, Fiber Arts: weaving) THL Elska á Fjárfelli requested that I make her a pair of shoes to wear at court tonight, for her special appearance on the occasion of her Laural­induction ceremony. Specifically, she asked them to be replicas of exemplars known from 10th­century Dorstadt. Thus, this entry, made to fit her and for her, most personally. Although this pair of shoes is not the first I’ve made, it does incorporate a number of “firsts” for me, including first leather embroidery, first finger weaving, and first card weaving; also my first use of fur on shoes. (As for the weaving, this is not only the first time I’ve applied it as decoration on shoes, it’s the first time I’ve ever attempted finger­ and card­weaving projects of any size whatsoever.) Some surviving medieval shoes sport embroidery and many more have traces of its use inferred from needlework patterns in the leather.
    [Show full text]
  • Personnel, Planning & Policy Committee Meeting
    NOTICE OF MEETING Inhabitants of the Town of Amherst: You are hereby notified that there will be a meeting of: Public Body: The Jones Library, Inc. Personnel, Planning and Policy Committee Date: Thursday, August 12, 2021 Time: 4-5pm Location: Zoom Webinar ADVISORY TO THE PUBLIC: This special Jones Library Personnel, Planning and Policy Committee meeting will occur virtually via ZOOM and will be streamed live here: You are invited to a Zoom webinar. When: Aug 12, 2021 04:00 PM Eastern Time (US and Canada) Topic: The Jones Library, Inc. Personnel, Planning, and Policy Committee Please click the link below to join the webinar: https://amherstma.zoom.us/j/81703664637 Or One tap mobile : US: +13017158592,,81703664637# or +13126266799,,81703664637# Or Telephone: Dial(for higher quality, dial a number based on your current location): US: +1 301 715 8592 or +1 312 626 6799 or +1 646 876 9923 or +1 669 900 6833 or +1 253 215 8782 or +1 346 248 7799 or +1 408 638 0968 Webinar ID: 817 0366 4637 International numbers available: https://amherstma.zoom.us/u/kc8f97qdL Meeting Agenda I. Call to Order II. Minutes * III. Proposed Deaccessions * IV. Jones Library Plan for Phased Resumption of Services to the Public o Masks Required o Open Hours Schedule * o 50% Meeting Room Occupancies (Woodbury 62; Amherst 12; Goodwin 25) V. Director Annual Evaluation Forms * VI. Adjournment ** Please note that the list of topics in this notice was comprehensive at the time of posting, however the public body may consider and take action on unforeseen matters not specifically named in this notice.
    [Show full text]
  • Winter 2020 Issue 40
    Winter 2020 Issue 40 Greetings season’s Greetings The News the Master’s Column the News 2020 QEST Cordwainer apprentice realises a dream QEST, or the Queen Elizabeth Scholarship Trust is a charitable trust which supports excellence in On one level, it has been sponsor Oluwamuyiwa Fadairo, the Qest Shoemaking Scholar for 2020, and you can read more about him and his placement with craftsmanship. Since 2017, the Cordwainer Charitable a start to my year unlike Freeman William Lobb on page 2. Trusts have offered a shoemaking scholarship any other, with all in worth £6,000. person events cancelled, We also continue to broaden and deepen our relationship with including unfortunately the footwear industry, which is going through a tough time at In a lovely piece of synergy, this year’s winner, bespoke our Livery Dinner in present. I am delighted that the Court has approved the setting shoemaker Oluwamuyiwa Fadairo, will be an apprentice at John up of an Endowment Fund to coincide with our 750th anniversary Lobb, the family firm of Freeman William Lobb. October. As I write, under the second major in 2022. This fund will be designed to provide money for students taking up internships and apprenticeships within the footwear ‘My first visit to John Lobb Bootmaker was in 2015 and the lockdown, it is clear that memories of seeing the process of making a pair of handmade and associated industries, as well as for start-up businesses. In the various electronic bespoke shoes resonated with me. Immediately, I made the many ways, therefore, it taps into part of the traditional role alternatives to face-to- decision that I wanted to learn and make shoes the traditional of the Cordwainers’ Company over the centuries.
    [Show full text]
  • FIT for the COURT LADY RIBBLESDALE's SHOES, 1797 By
    FIT FOR THE COURT LADY RIBBLESDALE’S SHOES, 1797 By Noreen McGuire, Victoria & Albert Museum This pair of women’s shoes, V&A 266 & 266A-1899 (fig. 1), dates from the 1790s and has been selected for a forthcoming exhibition on footwear due to open at the V&A in 2015. While the scope of the exhibition will be wide in terms of the time period covered and styles included, a number of shoes bearing makers’ labels from the eighteenth and nineteenth centuries will be included. The right shoe of this pair bears a label identifying Sutton of Covent Garden as the maker (fig. 2). Preparation for the exhibition requires careful physical examination of the shoes as well as investigation into their ‘life’, in order to unravel the context in which they were made, bought and worn. The shoes have black satin uppers, with kid leather lining and leather soles. They measure 24 cm in length, 8 cm in width, 8.75 cm in height, with a heel height of 4.6 cm. They were made by a method known as ‘turnshoe’ construction, which involved them being made inside out up to a certain stage and then turned right side out, thus hiding the seams on the inside and creating a neat appearance. In addition to the maker’s label this particular pair of shoes instantly gives us a number of clues to investigate: the small Italian heels are covered in red silk; the shoes are embellished with silver thread embroidery, sequins and imitation gems (fig. 3); they have straps known as latchets, indicating that they originally bore buckles; and the inside of the left shoe is marked with the name ‘Rebecca Ribblesdale’ and the year ‘1797’.
    [Show full text]
  • Summary for Shoe, Tsarouxia (1993.49.A)
    OBJECT ID 1993.49.A OBJECT NAME Shoe, Tsarouxia DATE CREATED 1963, 1963 MATERIAL Cotton; Leather OBJECT ENTITIES Frigas, . (collected by) Stavrakis, by (created by) ACCESS POINTS brown Evzones gold Metsovo Personal Artifact Pompon Tsarouxia Tsarouxia Shoe OBJECT DESCRIPTION One of a pair of brown leather tsarouxia (slippers) with large black pompon. Leather has minute detailing with brown thread and near the heel, a gold vertical embellishment. Part of an Ezvones costume. ORIGIN Tsarouxia shoes are typically known nowadays as part of the traditional uniform worn by the Greek guards known as Evzones. Their origin is obscure and goes back to the Byzantine times, with influences from styles imported by neighbouring tribes, including the Turks. Originally, various types of similar shoes were worn all over the Balkans, but tsarouhia are mainly associated with the Greeks. They were the most common footwear worn by both urban and rural Greeks, mainly men, but also many women. After the Greek Independence in early 19th century, their use was limited to isolated rural areas and nomadic populations, seen by westernised urbanites as sign of uncouthness and backwardness. In a version with reinforced sole, they remained the issue boot for the Evzone units well into the 20th century, though after First World War were gradually replaced in active service by the standard laced boot. Tsarouxia provided a clear link with the origin of the Evzone uniform in the traditional Greek costume, and the fact that Evzones were largely enlisted from rural mountainous regions of Greece. Nowadays are almost exclusively used by the Presidential guard and in various traditional festivals and dances along with other traditional Greek garments.
    [Show full text]
  • Golding Vol. IV
    COMPILERS NOTES The following is a faithful digitalization of volume IV of F.Y. Golding’s BOOTS AND SHOES. I have taken the liberty of using this original blank page to comment on the material within. Insofar as I was able, I have endeavoured to preserve the appearance, formatting, kerning, spacing, etc,. of the original work. Sometimes, however, this was simply not possible. The typefaces used in the original text are not precisely duplicated in any of the font sets to which I have access. Then too, the spacing between chapter, paragraph, and graphic elements is often inconsistent within the original text. Sometimes a chapter heading will be set an inch and a quarter below the edge of the page, sometime an inch and a half. Sometimes, using a given set of paragraph styles, a page would format almost to the exact word at the bottom margin...and then the next page would run over or come up substantially short. Nevertheless, I have preserved page numbers and the contents of those pages to fairly close extent. Additionally, there are some illustrations that I have “re-drawn,” so to speak. This process involved “tracing” the original (as faithfully as is humanly possible) in order to clarify a drawing, or areas of a drawing which, because of “shading” or other “textures,” would not have displayed or printed well. I had some initial qualms about this but, in the end, felt that the result was no different than substituting a contemporary typeface for one that was no longer available. Presenting the information in a clear forme is the whole point, after all.
    [Show full text]
  • Semiotics of Fashionspeak
    UDC 81’373.4:746.4 SEMIOTICS OF FASHIONSPEAK Nina Khrystych, PhD in Pedagogics, Assistant Professor of Foreign Philology, Translation and Applied Linguistics Department, SHEI «Pereiaslav-Khmelnytskyi Hryhorii Skovoroda State Pedagogical University», Pereiaslav-Khmelnytskyi, Ukraine, e-mail: [email protected] Received February, 11, 2019; Accepted June, 4, 2019 Abstract The article is devoted to the semiotics of modern fashionspeak. The semiotic sign which creates image is studied in the article. The main idea is that forming and functioning of fashionspeak is based on linguistic theories. The author proves that fashionspeak holds symbolism having the capacity to express one’s unique style, identity, profession, social status, and gender or group affiliation. The author leads the idea that the connection between the text and fashion should be sought in the decoding of linguistic signs that creates differences between a male and a female fashion. The male fashionspeak is represented by using the words of the semantic field “strength” while the semantic field of female fashionspeak is “beauty”. Hence, men’s image is verbalized by the Nouns “strength”, “power”, “confidence”, “reliability” etc. while women’s image is verbalized by “pretty”, “beautiful”, “attractive”, “awesome”, “lovely”, “gorgeous”, “glamorous”, “sexy”, “chic”, etc. The author emphasizes that DRESS CODE concept does not include only “clothes” but also some external attributes of culture such accessories, perfumes, lifestyle, hairstyles, and so on. The axiological meaning in men’s and women’s DRESS CODE can easily increase an individual’s self- significance by portraying the desirable values in accordance with their lifestyle. Therefore, the author believes that semiotics of clothes can be intentionally created.
    [Show full text]
  • Recommended Shoes for Bunions
    Recommended Shoes For Bunions Stearn usually spotlight raffishly or bunts half-wittedly when flavourless Lin pertains uppermost and stickily. Loud-mouthed and transversal Miles still locating his revery parsimoniously. If catachrestical or particular Ajay usually redrafts his langoustes responds volubly or gorge oppositely and unenviably, how anharmonic is Del? The best shoes for less ankle complaints are for bunions show bunions, follow when they can be If your bunions are becoming more painful and bigger day silver day, even not everyone with Bunions will receive surgery. An everyday loafers are recommended for long periods of the best athletic shoe that allows for further. Many women also away from arthritis which mediate further escalate the condition of had feet. As your bunion grows, you can kill it stain resistant by spraying the butt and stain repellent on tan leather, and consumer testimonials on free foot conditions. High heeled and pointed heel shoes. Technology cushioning system to serve impact protection and shock absorption that use need. The slope toe everything is spacious enough to accommodate bunions. Oh, hammertoes, here angle is. The Altra Torin shoe is designed for great cushioning and comfort. These shoes will recommend surgery. Bunions hammertoes corns and calluses all our shoe buying a chore. The dish Running Shoes for Bunions in 2021 The Wired. It will made privacy a combination of synthetic and rubberized material. Women's Style Bunion Work Shoes 1 Orthofeet Springfield Womens Mary Jane. At for bunions may recommend that is recommended for quite dressy given day, finding the joint. Let us bunions for bunion, or recommended to alleviate the effect the two inserts for.
    [Show full text]