Winter 2020 Issue 40

’s Greetings eason sGreetings The News the Master’s Column the News 2020 QEST Cordwainer apprentice realises a dream QEST, or the Queen Elizabeth Scholarship Trust is a charitable trust which supports excellence in On one level, it has been sponsor Oluwamuyiwa Fadairo, the Qest Scholar for 2020, and you can read more about him and his placement with craftsmanship. Since 2017, the Cordwainer Charitable a start to my year unlike Freeman William Lobb on page 2. Trusts have offered a shoemaking scholarship any other, with all in worth £6,000. person events cancelled, We also continue to broaden and deepen our relationship with including unfortunately the industry, which is going through a tough time at In a lovely piece of synergy, this year’s winner, our Livery Dinner in present. I am delighted that the Court has approved the setting shoemaker Oluwamuyiwa Fadairo, will be an apprentice at John up of an Endowment Fund to coincide with our 750th anniversary Lobb, the family firm of Freeman William Lobb. October. As I write, under the second major in 2022. This fund will be designed to provide money for students taking up internships and apprenticeships within the footwear ‘My first visit to John Lobb Bootmaker was in 2015 and the lockdown, it is clear that memories of seeing the process of making a pair of handmade and associated industries, as well as for start-up businesses. In the various electronic bespoke resonated with me. Immediately, I made the many ways, therefore, it taps into part of the traditional role alternatives to face-to- decision that I wanted to learn and make shoes the traditional of the Cordwainers’ Company over the centuries. There will be way. Now this aspiration is reality thanks to the support from face get togethers will more to follow on this over the next few months. This exciting QEST and the Cordwainers’ Company. I believe I am going into have to continue for development was missing from my first update on Court business, an institution with a wealth of experience and vast knowledge Oluwamuyiwa Fadairo some time yet. I have but I hope you found my brief otherwise helpful. I would welcome that will give me a solid foundation as I grow to become a attended a number of really quite formal events on Zoom any feedback on how this could be developed and thank you to Master Shoemaker. I am relishing the opportunity I have been in the last month. One major difference is that all toasts are those who have already responded. Oluwamuyiwa joins a distinguished band of talented QEST given and with hard work and diligence, my goal is to become taken seated. Allegedly this is to avoid people moving out of At the end of this very strange year, I would like to thank award winners, including Cordwainer liverymen Mary Wing To part of the new wave of young talented makers taking British camera shot as they stand up. I imagine in fact it is save the Penny, Sue, Nancy and Wendy for their hard work in keeping and Dominic Casey. We look forward to meeting him in person crafts to new horizons. Once more, thank you QEST and the blushes of those wearing jeans under their dinner jackets! the Company running smoothly and ensuring that we have all when circumstances allow. Cordwainers’ Company for helping me realize a dream.’ been able to get together on screen if not in person. Angelique and I extend our very best wishes to you all for a happy Cultural Merit award Christmas and a better 2021. Paul Strand wins for Alexandra Cordwainers’ Cup for Excellence The Cordwainers’ Cup for excellence is awarded at the London College The Cordwainers Cup for excellence is awarded at the London of Fashion to a final year student MASTER’S College of Fashion to a final year student who displays and who displays and demonstrates the I want to thank Sarah Day, Nafi Mustafa, ACTIVITIES demonstrates the highest combination of academic merit and commercial Ian White, Gee Lai and the entire footwear highest combination of academic Virtual gin tasting JULY-DECEMBER 2021 acumen required to succeed within the industry upon graduation. team at UAL London College of Fashion: merit and commercial acumen their guidance and patience has been Congratulations to former Cordwainer music required to succeed within the On another level, I am amazed how much we have still been paramount throughout my college scholar and international concert pianist able to do. Online meetings are very well attended – thanks to industry upon graduation. experience. Freeman Alexandra Dariescu, who has been 15 all our committee and Court members who have given up so This year’s winner, Swedish shoemaker Paul honoured by her native Romania. She has VIRTUAL EVENTS This award definitely validates all the hard much time to assist the Company this year. ATTENDED received the Order ‘Cultural Merit’ in the rank Strand, was a finalist in the 2020 Cordwainers work and gives me the confidence to trust of Knight from the President of Romania, The quiz evening was huge fun, although I suspect from the National Footwear Student of the Year my instincts as a designer and shoemaker. ’in appreciation for the dedication and closeness of the scoring that Google took a bit of a hammering. The Awards and is thrilled to win the cup. Thank you to the Worshipful Company of interpretive talent in the service of art, for the virtual gin tasting put on by the office team recently was something ‘I am immensely proud and over- Cordwainers for this acknowledgement. 110 artistic mastery and the special place she has of a triumph and we are planning similar events for the new year, It means the world to me.’ ZOOM MEETING HOURS whelmed to have won this award, in the cultural-artistic life of the country, for if Covid regulations continue to restrict gatherings. The only especially as it considers both academic Paul’s designs can be seen on Instagram: the talent, dedication and professionalism silver lining to the Corona cloud is that online events provide the merit and the jury’s belief in my potential @paulstrandfootwear that led to the enrichment of universal culture opportunity to welcome people who would, for reasons of distance to succeed within the footwear industry and spirituality, promoting Romania’s image or health, not be able to attend physical events. 03 upon graduation. in the United Kingdom of Great Britain and Our charitable works also are flourishing through adversity. Ever TRAIN JOURNEYS Northern Ireland.’ NORWICH - LONDON When creating my graduate collection, more ingenious schemes and events have already raised £5,700 I really wanted to push the boundaries Alexandra’s performances have obviously for the Royal Society for Blind Children, our Charity of the Year. of my imagination and produce unique been disrupted this year, but visit her website As I wrote to members recently, our income has been hit by the imagery tied to my Scandinavian heritage. alexandradariescu.com to learn more about pandemic, but we are endeavouring to make every penny that we 01 her forthcoming concerts and hear her play. are able to donate count. As just one example, we were able to TRIP FROM NORTH POLE 2 The Cordwainer the cordwainer the cordwainer

Socially-distanced shoemaking In Northampton, course leader Freeman Jane Cordwaining Schaffer reports on a new mix of online learning and face-to-face teaching. ‘The majority of the teaching is face-to-face where possible, during particularly our technical and practical workshops. We have reduced numbers in the sessions; each studio/workshop has been assessed and a maximum number of students and staff allotted for safe social distancing. Practical demonstrations Cutting-edge class at LCF are given to smaller numbers of students and repeated when Covid necessary. Some of our machines have been taken out of the students rose to the challenge and richly rewarded us with service so we can observe social distancing and students amazing work which was submitted for assessment in July. They have personal aprons provided by the university, along with dug deep to find ways of communicating creative outcomes to University students seem to have had a particularly hard deal this year, disposable gloves.’ construct models and experimental components. especially those on courses that involve a strong element of practical work. It’s a similar situation in Leicester, where De Montfort course After the efforts of the staff, it We asked the course leaders at Capel Manor, London College of Fashion, leader Freeman Phil Stewart says ‘The studios and workshops became clear very quickly that De Montfort University and the University of Northampton how they have have been redesigned for a one-way system and the footwear digital didn’t faze this generation adapted to teaching in the age of sanitisers and face masks. They have all workshop is limited to two students at a time. Because of these of students who were, of course, demonstrated a flexibility as lithe as the leather they work with to ensure restrictions, year one undertake practical making teaching in weaned on iPads and mobile that footwear design students thrive on a mixture of online lectures and term one, and years two and three will be making footwear in devices. How myopic of us oldies term two. In case there is a full lockdown, we have planned a not to realise this was the digital small practical classes. ‘Blended learning’ is the phrase of the semester and ‘It’s our strange course that delivers the learning experience that the students freedom they had been waiting for as LCF course leader, Liveryman Sarah Day remarks, ‘We certainly didn’t ‘new normal’ and expect and compensates for the lack of the practical element.’ all along! want any of the students to lose the passion they had developed in their we are trying very Masked makers at Capel Manor learning for our wonderful world of footwear.’ Liveryman Sarah Day sums up the situation in the education hard to get used We look forward to better days sector. ‘The first lockdown forced staff to think outside the box in to it.’ ahead, but one silver lining in the At Capel Manor College, order to deliver content and keep students focused on finishing (Freeman Jane black cloud of the coronavirus is that Liveryman Line Hansen and her the year with a flourish. We became digital gurus overnight and Schaffer, it has propelled creative thinking team extended their teaching into stole ideas from our children regarding social media and online Northampton) and brought us closer together as a the summer holidays in order to communication. Fortunately, we need not have worried, because shoemaking community.’ accommodate the sheer amount of time need to teach smaller divisions, others showed significant and plays an active part in the Trade groups of students in socially Industry in turmoil sales increases from web- based sales, Advisory Groups, sharing sector needs distanced classes. ‘Who would have Freeman Lucy Reece-Raybould, Chief and most see e-commerce as not just for the Free Trade Negotiators. Our thought eight months ‘We did a lot of teaching online, Executive of the British Footwear as a lifeline during lockdown, but as a information for the Japan deal was with the materials being sent ago that we would Association, reports on the state of vital part as the future, too. complimented as being the best from have encouraged to the students on the saddlery any sector. the footwear industry. Product successes have come from the students to make course. Luckily, most of the comfort sector, with businesses selling Capel Manor’s new skiving machine paper shoes? Not saddlery can be done by hand, The past nine months have had a huge The BFA will continue to support the out of and ‘house-shoes’. As very good in the although it takes a little longer and significant impact on the footwear footwear industry in the coming months Cordwainers are all too aware, there wet mind you, but and can be the cause of very sore trade, throwing even the biggest players as the post-Covid world takes shape and are no social events to dress up for, and extremely good for fingers if one is not used to it. in the industry into turmoil. We have seen as retailers, sourcing companies and consequently the occasion sector has demonstrating design The first year group came in for factories and stores mothballed under manufacturers alike reorganise themselves. been hardest hit. creativity’. four weeks over the summer to the first lockdown and the government (Liveryman Sarah Day, finish off their saddles, while the furlough scheme has become a lifeline The BFA has actively challenged and will course leader at LCF) second years came in for nine for countless businesses. continue to challenge, the government’s days to complete what we could guidelines for the reopening of retail. not quite achieve online. As regards the effect of the pandemic We lobbied hard to change the initial on the UK footwear industry as a whole, 72-hour quarantine requirement for More recently, we are having to work with small groups, all of there are both winners and losers. The shoes being tried on in stores and saw it us in face coverings while practically swimming in sanitiser. We former are those who were already well replaced with a more realistic cleaning all have contingency plans in place so we can switch to online prepared with an established digital process. We have also helped members if necessary, or individuals can follow the lessons live online via offering and an optimal mix of on and adapt with confidence to the new safety the two fabulous iPads that we have been able to purchase with offline channels. Covid-19 requirements. the support from the Cordwainers. In early November we took delivery of a long-awaited skiving machine, purchased thanks With certain businesses reporting some Alongside this, the BFA also provides to support from the Company.’ year-on-year growth from their online regular sector updates to government PPE at Northampton University

4 The Cordwainer The Cordwainer 5 Our Charities in my shoes OUr CHARITIES in my Raising funds for the new RSBC Life Without shoes Helen Kirkum, the inaugural Cordwainers National Footwear Student of the Year Limits Centre is undoubtedly a winner with form. Her MA collection won a Vogue talent award, In 2020-2021, we will be raising funds to while her latest collaboration with the men’s ready-to-wear designer Bethany support our long-term charity beneficiary Williams, re-mastering the Adidas Superstar, has been nominated for the Beazley the Royal Society for Blind Children (RSBC). Designs of the Year 2020 Prize and is showcased in London’s Design Museum. (Vote for it here: The Events Committee will be organising www.designmuseum.org/exhibitions/beazley-designs-of-the-year/fashion) a variety of fundraising events throughout the year, which we hope all members will be It isn’t the first time a museum has displayed a Helen Kirkum creation. Designs able to participate in or support. We have previously featured in exhibitions in Bordeaux, Philadelphia, and Hong Kong. already had a great start with Past Master Most of all though, she is known for being at the forefront of sustainability Jeremy Blanford’s cycle challenge, an online with creations hewn out of salvaged trainers that are pre-loved and pre-worn. quiz, and the sales of the fantastic facemasks Freelance since 2017, Kirkham creates bespoke trainers alone in her studio produced by the Mistress Cordwainer. in Hackney Wick aided only by two sewing machines and a sander. Her one- of-a-kind creations that can take four or five days to make, command prices In 2021, the RSBC will be opening their socialise, play, learn and get the support upwards of £1,300. Liveryman Elisa Anniss asks Helen about her career and new Life Without Limits Centre, located in they need from the RSBC. There will be the Cordwainers. the existing Northern and Shell building on a variety of facilities and resources at Lower Thames Street in the City of London. the centre, including a training kitchen, How and when did you become You were the first winner of the The RSBC hope this new centre will be an a playroom, study spaces and a flexible a Cordwainer? Cordwainers National Footwear inspiring place for guests of all ages to visit training suite for skills workshops. In July this year, via Zoom. Since 2014, Student of The Year Award. How did and an aspirational modern workplace for I have really enjoyed being invited to it help you on your way? The RSBC’s long and deep relationship RSBC’s staff, with wellbeing and efficiency Company events including delivering the It was amazing to be the first-ever winner. with the Cordwainers will be displayed on at the heart of the design. keynote speech and being a guest judge The prize money paid for the first year of What first sparked your interest the ‘Discovery/History wall’. The funds we at the Footwear Awards. my MA at RCA, which really helped me in trainers? The centre has been developed for both raise during 2020–21 will contribute to to push my career and keep learning. I It’s a mix of things really. I was always sighted and vision-impaired people, with the centre’s Hub, a unique computer room also made really valuable connections interested in trainers and as my personal careful consideration given to layout, intended for employability skills training, What is one of your earliest shoe- through Cordwainer events. style developed, I wanted to know how to materials, lighting and acoustics. It will assistive technology training and other related memories? make them. When I arrived at the RCA, I feature inspiring and playful details such educational purposes, which will create a real When I was young, I always used to Recycling, re-using, reworking. We hear didn’t know how to make them and really as tactile feature walls, interactive displays and measurable impact on the lives of RSBC’s mismatch my Converse, wearing different a lot about this now. What first led you wanted to learn, so I started by cutting and bold colours. The centre will provide blind and visually impaired young people. colours on each foot or drawing all over a safe space for blind and partially sighted to this concept? up old ones to see how they were made. I them. I also remember making a self- remember many friends wouldn’t give me young people and their families to meet, Nancy Treves Charity Manager When I was studying for my MA, I visited portrait by collaging all my pairs of shoes their old trainers to cut up, even if they a recycling centre. There, I saw the mass onto the floor and arranging them by were completely ruined and I started to of clothes, accessories and shoes that colour and making an abstract face. realise people can become very attached are donated, on a daily basis. It was to their trainers. This special connection completely shocking to me. From that made me love them even more and made Events Committee Update You studied at the University of instant I thought that I must utilise this me want to celebrate their materiality Northampton and then the Royal material rather than put something else The best-laid plans of the Events Committee have been thrown into confusion this even when they were damaged and old. College of Art. What did you learn at brand new into the world. year, but ever optimistic, we are looking forward to a number of events, both virtual each place that has stayed with you? and (fingers crossed) in-person, for the Company to look forward to in 2021. At Northampton I learned about Is it unusual being a woman What do you think is the most pressing We are planning to hold a silent auction, And for all of you keen runners (or anyone traditional methods of making shoes, designing trainers? issue that the footwear industry kicking off in February/March and due to wanting to shed their lockdown pounds), we the properties of leather and how to use There are lots of incredible female trainer globally needs to address regarding run through until April/May – there will be have a few places available in the London it. I worked in the Grenson factory and I designers, but women in the trainer world sustainability? some excellent items up for bidding, so Marathon in aid of the RSBC, due to be remember working with their amazing have seemed to get less publicity. In my watch out for more information around held in October 2021. pattern cutter and learning a lot from I think the obvious one is to make less. experience, it can feel like women, for this in the New Year. him about how to adjust and understand It is also for the things that we do make some reason, are only thought fit to design So, dust off your running shoes and patterns. At the RCA I challenged and to have meaning and purpose. Of course, shoes for women, whereas men can design We are hoping to host a virtual recital by let Nancy know if you are interested. unlearned what I already knew and we must make changes to be more shoes for whoever they please. But I am one of our Cordwainer music scholars On behalf of the Events Committee, a discovered new and experimental sustainable, use eco-friendly materials, hopeful that this narrative is changing. during the spring. very Happy Christmas to everyone! Past Master Jeremy Blanford cycled 100 miles around constructions and ideas. produce locally, and reduce our use of Kent in August, raising more than £3,000 for the RSBC hazardous materials. Liveryman Catherine Blanford, Chair 6 The Cordwainer The Cordwainer 7 Notice Board

Births Congratulations to Liveryman Sian Williams on the birth of a son, Finlay Curzon Marshall, born 21 August 2020. Events Calendar Social events will be subject to confirmation from the Office Marriages Congratulations to Past Warden Henry Fairweather and Alexandra Sterling who were married on Saturday 26 September 2020. 2021 06 Jan Wed 12th Night Court Dinner ONLINE 18.00 G 12 Jan Tue Wine Committee 11.15 Charity Committee 14.00 Master and Wardens Meeting 16.15 14 Jan Thu Court 17.15 Court Supper TBC Jan Mon Cordwainers/Carpenters Bridge Comp Trade & Education Committee 11.00 03 Feb Wed Audit Committee 14.30 02 Mar Tue Events Committee 18.30 09 Mar Tue Management Committee 11.00 Civic Dinner (formerly Past Wardens’ TBC 12 Mar Fri 18.30 B Dinner)

CET Trustees Meeting 13.00 Master and Wardens Meeting 15.00 Court 15.30 23 Mar Tue Came’s, Minge’s and Shawe’s 17.15 E Anniversary Sermon - St Olave’s 18.30 E Apprentices’ Supper TBC

TBC May Wed Inter-Livery Clay Shooting Competition Inter-Livery Golf ‘Prince Arthur Cup’ 20 May Thu (Walton Heath) 01 Jun Tue Events Committee 18.30 Royal Free Nurses Trust – General Meeting 12.30-14.00 Clerk’s Corner TBC Jun Royal Free Nurses Trust Awards 14.30-16.30 Unsurprisingly, it has been a frustrating few months for the office team. 04 Jun Fri Inter-Livery Rifle Competition (Bisley) Clothworkers’ Hall re-opened to staff in September and we began 09 Jun Wed Management Committee 11.00 returning to the offices on a part-time basis in a Covid-secure manner, Cordwainers National Footwear Awards 10 Jun Thu A looking forward to seeing some of you and beginning to plan for some (Clothworkers’ Hall) small social functions. It was not to last and the offices closed again on TBC Jun Cordwainers/Curriers Golf Day (Piltdown) 4 November, with no prospect of any social functions in person, as far TBC Jun Inter-Livery Croquet Charity Charity Committee 14.00 ahead as we can see. However, we are reviewing the situation constantly Court 16.30 23 Jun Wed in the light of updated government guidance and as soon as gatherings Election Day Common Hall 18.00 B are permitted again we will organise something, however small! Election Day Supper 19.00 B 24 Jun Thu Election of Sheriffs (Guildhall) 11.00 However, as in every situation, there have been some silver linings. Our 7 Jul Wed Audit Committee 10.30 online quiz and gin tasting were both very successful and gave us all Oath Day Common Hall (Upper Reception Room) 16.15 D an opportunity to catch up with fellow Cordwainers, even if it was via 14 Jul Wed Fisher’s, Minge’s and Wild’s Anniversary 18.00 A a computer screen. We have also had far better committee attendance Service – St Katharine Cree Church (V TBC) Supper in Livery Hall 19.00 A – often 100% – as a result of people not needing to travel to London, so this is something that we will look to continue, even when things A -  All Liverymen, Freemen, Court and E - Court and Freeborn children (aged Company Widows invited. 14-20) invited. get back to some kind of normality. It has also been wonderful to have B - All Liverymen invited. F - All Liverymen, Court and Company C - All Freemen and Junior Livery invited. Widows invited. contact with members who live remote from London, including several D - All Freemen and Liverymen invited. G- Court and invited Guests. from overseas from whom we had not heard for some time previously. Please continue to stay in touch with us; we love hearing your news. Despite the upheaval, business has continued largely as normal, Wheels and tyres: Land’s End to John O’Groats by bike including with our own Leather Livery grouping. The annual Leather Past Warden Sasha Clerks’ meeting took place virtually in November with the Cordwainers White joins the ranks of chairing this year. It is so helpful to have access to this highly distinguished Cordwainer supportive network, as well as to the Fellowship of Clerks, and to know cyclists, having cycled that everyone is facing the same challenges in these trying times; all from Land’s End to John Clerks are happy to share ideas and best practice and this generosity O’Groats in August, raising really is testament to the strength of the livery community. over £17,000 for the Samaritans on the process. Regarding our new home, there has been no update from the Sasha and his sons David Clothworkers yet as to whether they will be able to start work on their and Jack cycled 981 miles hall site in January 2022. Further information will be available in the over 14 cycling days – a next edition of The Cordwainer. tremendous achievement Penny Graham, Company Clerk for all of them.

The Clerk is delighted to hear from all Cordwainers. Please remember to tell the office about changes of address and your family news. ©2020 The Worshipful Company of Cordwainers. The Cordwainer is published twice a year. Copies are retained at the Cordwainers’ office. Contact the editor via the Cordwainers’ office: [email protected] or telephone +44 (0) 20 7929 1121. The Worshipful Company of Cordwainers, Clothworkers’ Hall, Dunster Court, Mincing Lane, London EC3R 7AH.

8 The Cordwainer