2 Mass Customization and Footwear: Myth, Salvation Or Reality?
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Gulfstream – Nonstop
VOLUME 02 EDITION 2012 LUXE KICKS DESTINATION DUBAI FLY-BY-WIRE Sole Men Bespoke Italian shoes hit their stride By LIz GroSSMAn fter starring in a span of criti- Bontoni’s standard of craftsman- cally acclaimed films in the ’90s, ship ranks among the highest of any Daniel Day-Lewis disappeared bespoke Italian shoemaker. from the public eye. From 1999 to 2000, the eccentric, reclusive actor wasn’t preparing for a role; rather he was holed up as a dili- gent apprentice at a cobbler’s studio in Florence, Italy. His mentor? Master shoemaker Stefano Bemer, who passed away in July. Bemer handcrafted bespoke men’s shoes with waxed, handwoven flat laces; used calf or exotic leathers like crocodile, stingray, sharkskin or ostrich; and sent the finished work of art to his clients in a monogrammed wooden box. Throughout his life, the shoe- maker taught other celebrities like Andy Garcia and designer Gianfranco Ferré the art of measuring, cutting, stitching and constructing bespoke men’s shoes. But it was Day-Lewis who showed up at 8 a.m. daily for almost a year, and reportedly became disturbed when a stitch wasn’t exactly right. Day-Lewis, also an avid woodworker, may very well have an eye for craftsman- ship, but chances are Bemer helped fuel his passion for shoemaking. A legend in the shoes are still turned out of a tiny bottega in aspect of the shoe, from the height of bespoke world of Italian shoes, Bemer’s the town of Montegranaro, located in the the heel, to the design of the medallion, devotion and talent will be sorely missed, Le Marche region of east-central Italy. -
An American Identity: Shoemaker's Labels in Colonial
AN AMERICAN IDENTITY: SHOEMAKER'S LABELS IN COLONIAL. REVOLUTIONARY AND FEDERAL AMERICA, 1760-1820 by Meaghan M. Reddick A Thesis Submitted to the Graduate Faculty of George Mason University in Partial Fulfillment of The Requirements for the Degree of Master of Arts History of Decorative Arts Committee: ~~~~ ___ ---lCL~~-~·~~·~.."""""-_'~7'l""'------Program Director .:~'..:.:l,':'.~~., .:~»::::~ ..,. Department Chairperson ~s:, Ywyh Dean, College of Humanities and Social Sciences Date: A OR-I I ~O I d-O I f Spring Semester 2014 , George Mason University Fairfax, VA An American Identity: Shoemaker’s Labels in Colonial, Revolutionary and Federal America, 1760-1820 A Thesis submitted in partial fulfillment of the requirements for the degree of Master of Arts at George Mason University by Meaghan M. Reddick Bachelor of Arts Hollins University, 2008 Director: Mary D. Doering, Adjunct Professor Department of History of Decorative Arts Spring Semester 2014 George Mason University Fairfax, VA Copyright: 2014 Meaghan M. Reddick All Rights Reserved ii DEDICATION To my husband, Danny, Who has never been in doubt about who I was, and where I was going. Thank you for giving me the world, every single day. Daniel Patrick and Ashby Thomas, my sons, who I hope will be proud of me when they look back on my life. My parents, Paul and Suzanne Devlin, my sister Bronwyn, Who have watched me grow patiently, allowed me to thrive and supported my dreams from the beginning. To Ebenezer Breed, To whom I hope my research did him justice as a patriot And advocate of the American shoe industry. To future shoe historians, I hope this research inspires you to look “beyond the label”. -
This Document Was Submitted in Support of An
This document was submitted in support of an entry into the SCA Arts & Sciences competition known as “Ice Dragon” held April 14, 2018, in the Barony of the Rhydderich Hael (see http://www.icedragon.info/) . Many thanks to the individuals who judged this and all entries and provided feedback on them, as well as to those who organized and staffed the event. Further related material can be found on the web at http://shoesbyrobert.com/shoeswp/projects/apairofblackandwhites/ Copyright 2018 by Ken Stuart (Lord Robert of Ferness), except for the illustrations, which are cited from their original sources. The author may be contacted at k [email protected] with questions, comments, etc. Decorated Viking Age Turnshoes for Court Categories Leatherworking and Accessories: nontextile. (Also, Special 5in1 for Leatherworking, Accessories: nontextile, Heraldic Display, Needlework: embroidery, Fiber Arts: weaving) THL Elska á Fjárfelli requested that I make her a pair of shoes to wear at court tonight, for her special appearance on the occasion of her Lauralinduction ceremony. Specifically, she asked them to be replicas of exemplars known from 10thcentury Dorstadt. Thus, this entry, made to fit her and for her, most personally. Although this pair of shoes is not the first I’ve made, it does incorporate a number of “firsts” for me, including first leather embroidery, first finger weaving, and first card weaving; also my first use of fur on shoes. (As for the weaving, this is not only the first time I’ve applied it as decoration on shoes, it’s the first time I’ve ever attempted finger and cardweaving projects of any size whatsoever.) Some surviving medieval shoes sport embroidery and many more have traces of its use inferred from needlework patterns in the leather. -
Winter 2020 Issue 40
Winter 2020 Issue 40 Greetings season’s Greetings The News the Master’s Column the News 2020 QEST Cordwainer apprentice realises a dream QEST, or the Queen Elizabeth Scholarship Trust is a charitable trust which supports excellence in On one level, it has been sponsor Oluwamuyiwa Fadairo, the Qest Shoemaking Scholar for 2020, and you can read more about him and his placement with craftsmanship. Since 2017, the Cordwainer Charitable a start to my year unlike Freeman William Lobb on page 2. Trusts have offered a shoemaking scholarship any other, with all in worth £6,000. person events cancelled, We also continue to broaden and deepen our relationship with including unfortunately the footwear industry, which is going through a tough time at In a lovely piece of synergy, this year’s winner, bespoke our Livery Dinner in present. I am delighted that the Court has approved the setting shoemaker Oluwamuyiwa Fadairo, will be an apprentice at John up of an Endowment Fund to coincide with our 750th anniversary Lobb, the family firm of Freeman William Lobb. October. As I write, under the second major in 2022. This fund will be designed to provide money for students taking up internships and apprenticeships within the footwear ‘My first visit to John Lobb Bootmaker was in 2015 and the lockdown, it is clear that memories of seeing the process of making a pair of handmade and associated industries, as well as for start-up businesses. In the various electronic bespoke shoes resonated with me. Immediately, I made the many ways, therefore, it taps into part of the traditional role alternatives to face-to- decision that I wanted to learn and make shoes the traditional of the Cordwainers’ Company over the centuries. -
FIT for the COURT LADY RIBBLESDALE's SHOES, 1797 By
FIT FOR THE COURT LADY RIBBLESDALE’S SHOES, 1797 By Noreen McGuire, Victoria & Albert Museum This pair of women’s shoes, V&A 266 & 266A-1899 (fig. 1), dates from the 1790s and has been selected for a forthcoming exhibition on footwear due to open at the V&A in 2015. While the scope of the exhibition will be wide in terms of the time period covered and styles included, a number of shoes bearing makers’ labels from the eighteenth and nineteenth centuries will be included. The right shoe of this pair bears a label identifying Sutton of Covent Garden as the maker (fig. 2). Preparation for the exhibition requires careful physical examination of the shoes as well as investigation into their ‘life’, in order to unravel the context in which they were made, bought and worn. The shoes have black satin uppers, with kid leather lining and leather soles. They measure 24 cm in length, 8 cm in width, 8.75 cm in height, with a heel height of 4.6 cm. They were made by a method known as ‘turnshoe’ construction, which involved them being made inside out up to a certain stage and then turned right side out, thus hiding the seams on the inside and creating a neat appearance. In addition to the maker’s label this particular pair of shoes instantly gives us a number of clues to investigate: the small Italian heels are covered in red silk; the shoes are embellished with silver thread embroidery, sequins and imitation gems (fig. 3); they have straps known as latchets, indicating that they originally bore buckles; and the inside of the left shoe is marked with the name ‘Rebecca Ribblesdale’ and the year ‘1797’. -
Golding Vol. IV
COMPILERS NOTES The following is a faithful digitalization of volume IV of F.Y. Golding’s BOOTS AND SHOES. I have taken the liberty of using this original blank page to comment on the material within. Insofar as I was able, I have endeavoured to preserve the appearance, formatting, kerning, spacing, etc,. of the original work. Sometimes, however, this was simply not possible. The typefaces used in the original text are not precisely duplicated in any of the font sets to which I have access. Then too, the spacing between chapter, paragraph, and graphic elements is often inconsistent within the original text. Sometimes a chapter heading will be set an inch and a quarter below the edge of the page, sometime an inch and a half. Sometimes, using a given set of paragraph styles, a page would format almost to the exact word at the bottom margin...and then the next page would run over or come up substantially short. Nevertheless, I have preserved page numbers and the contents of those pages to fairly close extent. Additionally, there are some illustrations that I have “re-drawn,” so to speak. This process involved “tracing” the original (as faithfully as is humanly possible) in order to clarify a drawing, or areas of a drawing which, because of “shading” or other “textures,” would not have displayed or printed well. I had some initial qualms about this but, in the end, felt that the result was no different than substituting a contemporary typeface for one that was no longer available. Presenting the information in a clear forme is the whole point, after all. -
Recommended Shoes for Bunions
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