Issue 08 2021 www.gpv.is

New Wave 3 Men, 1 North LGBT(heatre) Reykjanes! News: Not the !ood kind, the Culture: The Grapevine's Art: Queer teens take to the Travel: It's not just for pandemic kind Frin!e Award winners streets! volcanos anymore

Being Nonbinary, In Iceland And Everywhere Nonbinary people have always existed, all over the world, but are only recently getting noticed in Eurocentric coun- tries. We explore what being nonbinary means, the challenges they face, and what needs to change for the better. COVER ART:

Photo by Art Bicnick.

On the cover: Ari Logn, Regn and Reyn, three nonbinary Icelanders, enrobed in a nonbinary pride flag.

06: COVID Strikes Back 20: Queer Teens Werk It 31: Reykjanes Revelry 06: Saga's Turning Blue 11: MEN OF THE NORTH 27: Style Straight From 07: Nordic Gods & Finnish RISE UP AND JUGGLE The Non-Straights First Rock Gods 24: Mannveira... \m/ 26: Saga Cowboy EDITORIAL Andie Sophia Will Not Shut Up Hannah Jane’s Sentimental Sermon

A recent comment on one of our YouTube videos complained Last year, Andie Sophia and I wrote our joint Pride editorial that I should shut up about being trans and nonbinary; that at the tail end of the widespread Black Lives Matter protests. it’s in fact straight cis people who are actually marginalised, I remember sitting at this same desk thinking that the hatred and “freaks” like me are taking over. gripping our shared birth country couldn’t possibly get more extreme. If you had told me that in months, insurrectionists There’s an old saying that goes: “when you’re accustomed to would storm our Capital Building encouraged by our then- privilege, equality feels like oppression.” I would argue that President, I would not have believed you. But here we are. even pushing for equality also gets framed by the privileged as oppression. This year, the news is currently dominated by the Delta vari- ant. Cases worldwide are exploding and the topic of social When I see how trans issues are framed by mainstream revolution has retreated once again to the background. media, especially in the US and UK, as a journalist I am constantly astounded at how editorial standards go right out For me, Pride 2021 was a light at the end of the tunnel, but the window when covering this topic. Seldom, if ever, are any now it’s, once again, a quiet affair. So how does one celebrate actual trans people interviewed for these pieces. Repeatedly Pride by their lonesome? Well, by remembering that Pride debunked cranks are given uncritical platforms for their was not originally a party. It was a protest. hate. Small wonder that anti-trans legislation in the US, and hate crimes both there and Europe, have been running Queer and reproductive rights in European countries have rampant. continued to decline horrifically. There’s been a massive uptick in anti-Asian and anti-Semitic crimes in the US and But we would be kidding ourselves if we believed this can’t trans women continue to be murdered at a disproportionate happen in Iceland. There is a small cadre of bigots forever rate worldwide. QAnon—and its hateful cousins—still flour- yelling about “only two genders” and “you can’t change ish in the darkest corners of the internet, leaving a trail of your sex”, and we would be doing ourselves a disservice by victims in their wake. pretending it’s not happening. Bigotry is a rabbit hole and while it might not always be Queerantine This is why I will not shut up. This is why Pride is still impor- front-page news, it’s always there. So love and listen to your tant everywhere. So we hope you’ll enjoy the perspectives neighbours. Humanity need not be so cruel. of three nonbinary Icelanders in this issue’s cover story. 2021 Through listening and learning, tolerance can flourish. Andie Sophia Fontaine & Hannah Jane Cohen Grapevine Goddesses and co-editors of this issue

John Pearson is a Rey- Hannah Jane Cohen is Pollý is a hard-work- Alina Maurer is a Catharine Fulton is a Erik Pomrenke Andie Sophia Fontaine Brittnee Kiner is an Valur Grettisson is kjavík resident who based out of Iceland ing journalist by day media studies intern writer and editor who collects graduate has lived in Iceland American political an award-winning combines writing with by way of New York. and an enthusiastic at the Grapevine. She has been involved degrees and is cur- since 1999 and has science student– journalist, author professional back- She's known for her ball-catcher by studied all things with the Grapevine rently studying litera- been reporting since turned temporary and playwright. He grounds in music, love of Willa Ford, night. A four-year-old Icelandic at HÍ and for many years, from ture and historical 2003. They were the resident of Iceland, has been writing for broadcasting, scuba David Foster Wallace, dachshund mix with can finally distin- being our online linguistics at HI. His first foreign-born seeking asylum from Icelandic media since diving, engineering and other such an IQ of a five-year- guish Marvel’s Thor news editor to sta& MA thesis is probably member of the the quagmire of US 2005. He was also a and underwater "intellectuals." Her old human, Pollý has from the real Þór. journalist. She is going to be about Icelandic Parliament, politics. Riding her theatre critic and photography. He loves visionary work is been the o#cial A%er a year’s break now our beloved law and memory, an experience they horse-drawn wagon one of the hosts of puns, alliteration and known for expand- Chief Of Morale at in Germany she came copywriter. Outside but it changes every recommend for from the Oklahoma the cultural program, lists that have three ing the definitions of the Grapevine for back to Iceland due of dealing with our week. In his spare anyone who wants prairies, she found 'Djöflaeyjan' on RÚV. things in them. emotion, introspec- eight months and is to missing the ocean writers turning in time, he likes to to experience a refuge on an Atlantic Valur is not to be tion, and above all a regular contribu- and Icelandic ice work late, she also memorize inflection workplace where island. A rock climber confused with the else, taste. Hannah is tor to the Grape- cream. She loves has two extremely paradigms and chill colleagues work tire- from the plains, she's dreadful football club also the current Drag vine Newscast on pretzels, clay art and cute kids. to death industrial lessly to undermine got a serious so% that bears the same King of Iceland, HANS. YouTube. Woof. boiling in hot tubs. and harsh noise. each other. spot for ice cream. name.

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Covid-19 Rapid Test

15

Gylfi Sigurðsson, currently under investigation

in 1944; it took the literal collapse What Are Icelanders of the financial system to get them Results in 15 minutes out of power.

Talkin! About? In less exciting news, Gylfi Sigurðs- son, a football player for Everton Good vibes only in the comments and the Icelandic National Team, Go to www.testcovid.is is reportedly under investigation Words: Andie Sophia Fontaine Photos: Soccer.ru/Wikimedia Commons in the U.K. for sexual offences against a minor. Though he wasn’t NEWS It probably goes without possibilities for autumn. Iceland named in the British press—they saying, but the big news has almost never had a one-party only said it was a “married, 31 years To book your test in Iceland right now is the Delta ruling government; two parties old and plays regularly with his variant of the coronavirus. Within are usually the norm. However, national team”, which narrowed it follow these simple steps. a couple weeks of Iceland throwing recent polling has shown that even down to two people, Gylfi being one aside all domestic restrictions and a three-party coalition will be of them—sources speaking with making the border considerably next to impossible. More shock- the Icelandic press did identify him. easier to cross, new cases began to ingly, some of the possible ruling Gylfi was reportedly arrested, his 1 Go to www.testcovid.is crop up rapidly—even amongst the coalitions—if the recent polls are house searched and some unnamed vaccinated. Single-day records were reflected in the voting results, items were seized. Subsequently shattered, new domestic restric- that is—may be possible without released on bail, he has denied the tions were put in place and popular the Independence Party, Iceland’s charges against him—whatever the Select your test location, August events were cancelled. conservatives. This is huge news nature of his reported crime may 2 and it’s a surprise it isn’t being more be. That will have to come to light date and time This seemed to give fuel to the widely reported. The Independence later. small, but loud, anti-vax contin- Party has been a part of nearly every Complete your payment gent in Iceland. It later came to ruling coalition since the country 3 light that while most of the new became an independent republic online - 6.900 ISK cases were amongst vaccinated people, the actual percentage of vaccinated people who subse- quently became infected has not 4 even crossed 1%. Even so, one Get your QR code via e-mail woman loudly confronted a group of pregnant women in line to get vaccinated, becoming so unruly that police were called to escort her Give yourself at least half an hour before your away. This person was subsequently planned arrival at the airport to complete doxxed by mainstream media and some questioned her mental health. the testing process. Visit us at Adalgata 60 Just a reminder: some perfectly in Reykjanesbaer or at BSÍ Bus Terminal sane people can have wildly wrong and inaccurate views. in Reykjavik. When you arrive, please have your QR code ready. The testing process takes In other news, elections are coming up and recent polling is about 15 minutes. The test results will be revealing some highly unusual sent to you via email with a valid QR code that Bjarni Ben, presumably voting for himself you can present in all countries that PUBLISHER LISTINGS DIRECTOR PHOTOGRAPHERS CONTACT US: or in part without the approve COVID-19 antigen tests. Hilmar Steinn Hannah Jane Cohen Elvar. Ö. Egilsson —» Editorial written permission Grétarsson [email protected] Joanna Jakubek +354 540 3600 of the publishers. The [email protected] Reykjavík Grapevine Published by [email protected] is distributed COPY EDITOR —» Advertising around Reykjavík, Fröken ehf. +354 540 3601 SALES DIRECTORS Opening hours are every day between 7:00-16:00. [email protected] Catharine Fulton 354 540 3605 Akureyri, Egilsstaðir, Hafnarstræti 15, Aðalsteinn [email protected] Seyðisfjörður, 101 Reykjavík Jörundsson Borgarnes, Keflavík, EDITOR#IN#CHIEF MULTIMEDIA —» Distribution www.grapevine.is [email protected] Ísafjörður and JOURNALIST & Subscriptions at key locations [email protected] Valur Grettisson +354 540 3604 [email protected] John Pearson Helgi Þór Harðarson along road #1, and johnpearson@ [email protected] distribution@ all major tourist Member of the grapevine.is attractions and Scan me NEWS EDITOR grapevine.is Icelandic Travel FOUNDERS tourist information —» Press releases centres in the Industry Association Andie Sophia Fontaine INTERNS www.saf.is andiesophia@ Hilmar Steinn [email protected] country. You may not Grétarsson, like it, but at least grapevine.is Brittnee Kiner —» General Inquiries brittnee@grapevine. Hörður Kristbjörnsson, it's not sponsored [email protected] (no articles in the Printed by Landsprent CULTURE EDITOR is ehf. Jón Trausti Reykjavík Grapevine Hannah Jane Cohen Alina Maurer Sigurðarson, are pay-for articles. [email protected] [email protected] The Reykjavík The opinions Oddur Óskar Grapevine is Erik Pomrenke Kjartansson, expressed are the published 21 times writers’ own, not the PHOTO EDITOR [email protected] Valur Gunnarsson a year by Fröken advertisers’). Art Bicnick ltd. Monthly from [email protected] December through February, and fortnightly from March til October. Nothing in this magazine may be reproduced in whole NATURALLY DELICIOUS ICELANDIC LAMB – BEYOND COMPARE

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to come correct. ASK AN Domestically Public gatherings are capped at 200 Expert people. Masks are required in indoor spaces. People will be required to main- Q: Why Was Blue A tain a distance of one metre between Dangerous Sign In The one another. Restaurants, clubs and Icelandic Sagas? pubs can’t let new patrons enter after 23:00, with the last person required to leave at midnight. Pools and gyms are limited to 75% of their maximum capacity. All of this is to be in place until August 13th.

But are vaccines safe???

You may have been alarmed to see recent news that most of the new infec- Katrín, holding her breath tions for the coronavirus are among vaccinated people. This point might have you questioning the efficacy of vaccines. Don’t fret: there’s more. Government Announces According to data provided to reporters by the Directorate of Health, when the total number of vaccinated people and the number of those who A reader picking up the Sagas of the New Domestic Restrictions Icelanders can often be struck by subsequently caught the virus are A refresher... taken as a whole, the effectiveness of the strange modernity of the prose. these vaccines comes into focus. However, there are also many impli- In any given group of people cations that are very foreign to us. vaccinated by a particular vaccine, For instance, a rider dressed in blue was very often a frightening sight. Words: Fighting the coronavirus can only go the percentage of those who later At the border We turned to Dr. Anita Sauckel, post- Andie Sophia as well as people follow the health contracted the virus never surpassed doctoral researcher and teacher at guidelines. As there seems to be some Travellers to Iceland, including resi- 0.18%. Furthermore, even amongst the Fontaine Háskóli Íslands, for answers. persistent confusion on the subject, dents and tourists, must present a infected, their symptoms have been far Photo: here are the pandemic restrictions in negative COVID test—either a rapid milder than those unvaccinated. In the Sagas of Icelanders, depictions Art Bicnick place as of August 6th. The current test or PCR—on arrival that’s not more So rest assured: vaccines work and of clothing are an essential part of the restrictions will be in place up to and than 72 hours old. This applies to the you should get yours if you haven’t plot. Di&erent kinds of garments not including August 13th. As always, the vaccinated and unvaccinated alike. already. only help the audience identify cer- latest COVID-19 news and restrictions Failure to do so could net you a hefty tain characters, but they also express can be found on covid.is. fine—up to 100,000 ISK—so do be sure gender, social status, travels, as well as emotions and specific intentions. LOST IN GOOGLE TRANSLATION A very special type of garment in the Sagas is a cloak or tunic of the colour blár; this Old Norse adjective can be translated as “blue,” “black” or “blue-black.” This colour seems to be The War Planet Cometh associated with death, aggression and violence. For instance, in mythology, On the evening of July 2nd, 2021, skies southwest Iceland, leading me to obscure word for a meteor in Hel, the goddess of death, is described darkened across southwest Iceland. A dive into the finer points of Icelandic Icelandic: Vígahnöttur, which to be half the colour of human skin and loud crack reverberated through the meteorology and astronomy. The translates literally to "war half blár. sky, shaking the very earth below as a original headline from Morgunblaðið globe." Saga characters wearing clothing mysterious figure emerged from the ran as “Vígahnöttur möguleg skýring From Old Norse víg, meaning in blue-black more o%en than not find clouds above. á drununum,” which Google trans- "battle," we have here a fine themselves in dangerous situations Against the pale northern night, it late artfully rendered as “War Planet compound with hnöttur, or or are in the mood for killing: In 'Valla- hung, bigger than the moon. Mountain Possible Explanation for the Drones.” "globe," to denote a dangerous Ljóts saga,' the chie%ain Ljót Ljótólfs- ranges, clouds and oceans swirled Besides the obvious strangeness of ball from outer space. son owns two outfits that reflect his above in perfect detail, unveiled in an “War Planet,” I might point out that By the way, mythology current state of mind; whenever Ljót instant. "drones" here refers to loud sounds, nerds may recognize víg- from was in a good mood he would wear Geologists and meteorologists not the airborne cameras. vígríðr, literally "battle surge," a brown tunic, but should he be in a across the country scrambled to The most common word for a the plains on which the battle “slaying mood” he would wear a short interpret the readings of seismo- meteor is lo"steinn, and true to the of Ragnark is fought. EP blue-black tunic. graphs, barometers, and a battery of rugged simplicity of the Norse tongue, However, blue-black garments in remote sensors across the southwest it quite literally means "air stone." the Sagas are not reserved only for of the nation as clouds of dark ships Steinn will be familiar enough to men. Women are depicted wearing hovered in battle array. anglophones out there, but we also them as well! The most prominent fe- The War Planet had arrived. might recognise our old friend lo" male character wearing blár ís Guðrún from such fine cognates as alo%, lo%y, Ósvífrsdóttir of 'The Saga of the People This is the image that passed the lo% of a building, and the German of Laxardal,' who is depicted in the through my mind upon reading recent airline Lu%hansa. colour as her husband is killed. ° news of a meteoroid detonation over There is, however, another more

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shop.grapevine.is shop.grapevine.is* shop.grapevine.is shop.grapevine.is shop.grapevine.is shop.grapevine.isDon't Hesitate! Act Now! * You only need to type the URL in once 7 The Reykjavík Grapevine First Issue 08— 2021 GODS OF ICELAND save for sparse appearances in the 'Grímnismál' and the 'Atlakviða.' At one point, there was apparently some GRAPEVINE glorious story about him sailing off into the ocean, but whoever had that docu- ment probably thought it was too main- PLAYLIST stream and threw it out like a worn copy of ‘The Da Vinci Code’. Wait, too mainstream? Well, the expansive and su&ocating. Nico thing about Ullr is that his name was, cites “Icelandic in the times of old, adopted as the title telluric forces, of many locales in southern Sweden volcanoes, ghosts and deities” as and western Norway, meaning that the entities which he was, at said time, an extremely permeate his work. influential deity. That said, we, in the It’s the kind of music I could invite to wash times of new, know basically nothing Svarti Laxness - Hvaddagera over me, if I was in the about him, which is a shame, consid- Summer vibes with right mood. But that ering how other super popular ancient a dark twist from would have to be a pretty weird mood. mainstream texts like ‘The Iliad’ are Svarti Laxness, the musical persona of And I wouldn’t want now studied intensely by Ivory Tower all-round renaissance to indulge it for too academics who would never even man Davíð Þór. long. JP breathe on a copy of ‘The Da Vinci Code’. “Hvaddagera”—which translates roughly So what do we know about Ullr? as “what are you See you on the Boulevard, Ullr Well, his dad was the star Aurvandil. doing?”—bowls in all robust beats And we don’t mean star in the Mötley and bouncing bass Crüe sense—he was literally a burning underneath Davíð’s Ullr, The Hanoi Rocks Of The Norse spheroid of plasma. Ullr was apparently smooth lyrical flow. But the track feels also really good at archery. And there we edgy, like someone go. That’s it. Ullr was basically Katniss who comes into a Monstra - Nobody room but declines to Icelandic darkwave/ Pantheon Everdeen if she had been born in the electro-punk duo take their coat o& or Andromeda galaxy and then everyone sit down. JP Monstra go way back, The Grapevine has never for!otten these rock !ods decided The Hunger Games and space having performed together for about a were lame. decade before COVID Words: Remember Hanoi Rocks? Man, they it quits in 1985 after the tragic death of So Ullr was super famous at one point hit and they changed Hannah Jane rocked! To this day, I can’t get enough drummer Razzle following a party at before humans—the elitist hipsters their style, swapping acoustic guitars for Cohen of “Boulevard of Broken Dreams.” You Vince Neil’s house. we are—deemed him too popular and synthesizers. The feel me? So while Hanoi Rocks arguably pretended they were never even into result is slick, dark, Photo: Stop lying. I know you don’t remem- pushed a new sound, spawning some him, turning their attention to more danceable, and catchy. It compares Hanoi Rocks ber them—if you even have any idea massive hits for other bands—c’mon obscure gods like Þór and Freyr. Barf. Ásta - Melabúðin favourably to the 'Oriental Beat' who they are. “Paradise City” baby!—no one outside And Ullr was lost to history. Just like The quaint and bests of old school Finland or Sweden or basement glam Hanoi Rocks. quirky corner store post-punk, goth rock and new wave, with rock aficionados really gives them any Melabúðin is fitting A brief history of (glam) inspiration for folk a kick of added girl time attention or recognition. They certainly artist Ásta’s most power. If, like me, don’t garner repeated plays at every recent single, which you have a playlist Superpowers: floats between sharp titled “Vampire Dance For the uninitiated, Hanoi Rocks was a strip club around the world or VH1 Party,” you owe this a Unclear. Presumably super awesome downbeats and Finnish glam rock band from the 1980s. dating shows. folksy upbeats. The listen. EP and likeable. The group has been cited as a major To sum it up, Hanoi Rocks are basi- track centres around an experience Ásta influence by bands you might have actu- cally the Ullr of the glam rock world. Weaknesses: had one December ally heard of, such as Guns N' Roses, Too awesome and likeable. evening at the iconic Poison, and Mötley Crüe. Unfortunately, shop. She noticed Who tf is Ullr? some teenage boys despite their prolific musical impact, Modern Analogy: Hanoi Rocks… didn’t you read the swaggering around, Hanoi Rocks had a rather short-lived Ullr is a rather enigmatic Norse God. article? attempting to ooze career—debuting in 1979 and calling He’s rarely mentioned in old writings, with coolness. Ásta’s lyrics capture vulnerabilities Daníel Hjálmtýsson JUST SAYINGS through overheard - Back To Bed conversations and Occupying a space observations. An between gothic, unconventional tune post-punk, singer- created from the songwriter and what most ordinary of might broadly be circumstances. BK called “dark rock,” ,,Hallærisplanið” Daníel Hjálmtýsson’s latest single is a song that is greater than the sum of its This edition of Just Sayings isn’t so and put on their best tryhard airs to parts. What binds it much about an Icelandic catchphrase showcase how cool they were. together is Daníel’s voice, which shares as it is about a cultural institution: Today, young people go to the inter- great adjectival Hallærisplanið. net to do these things, but Hallæris- overlap with fine Hallærisplanið literally means “the planið still lives in the hearts of many co&ees and wines; Nico Guerrero - one might say it sips tacky lot” and can be more precisely Boomer-aged Icelanders, who in all Streams of Oblivion well. Play this song translated as “the cringe zone.” But it’s likelihood have many embarrassing Dissonant. as you take o& your more than a concept; it’s an actual place, memories of their time there. ASF Discordant. weather-worn duster Disturbing. Sonic and pour yourself a located where Ingólfstorg is now. In drones and twisted whiskey, sinking back the 60s, 70s, and even much of the 80s, guitars smother an into your armchair it was the de rigeur hangout spot for anxiety dreamscape, as you think of lost spiralling upwards loves and forgotten Reykjavík teenagers. Kids from all over around each other memories. EP town would meet here to drink, chat into a space that Ingólfstorg circa 1977, photo from Ljósmyndasafn Reykjavíkur is simultaneously

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(From the le$) Regn, Reyn and Ari Logn Being Nonbi- nary: In Iceland And Everywhere

The existence of nonbinary people is gaining way 'man' didn't either. Everyone around slow but steady recognition in many Euro- me sort of linked in with 'womanhood' and centric countries—Iceland included. While It’s time to say it loud: nonbinary 'manhood' but I just didn't. That's the only we celebrate the fact that Iceland officially way I can describe it. I just dress how I think allows for a third legal gender marker—X— people have always existed. is nice and that's it. I don't feel like I have a and has somewhat relaxed their naming masculine or feminine spirit, I just… am." laws, most of the challenges nonbinary Words: Andie Sophia Fontaine Photos: John Pearson I also describe myself as agender, in a way people face have more to do with the real- that I don't feel a connection to womanhood ity of living in a society that only accepts a or manhood,” Regn says. “But I tried out binary view of gender. different gender identities that go under the In this feature, we spoke with three nonbi- examples. Far from being a recent trend or Still, legal and societal challenges persist. In nonbinary umbrella. I had tried genderqueer, nary Icelanders—Ari Logn, Regn Sólmundur fad, nonbinary gender identities have existed the course of our interviews, the patterns which is itself a pretty big umbrella, but it Evu and Reyn Alpha Magnúsar—about their in many cultures around the world for mille- that emerged include the challenges of living wasn't exactly on point. I thought I was trans experiences with their gender identities, nia, with examples including the ‘Yan Daudu in a community that sees gender in purely masculine for a while; like maybe a feminine the challenges they face and what needs to of sub-Saharan Africa, the Nádleehi of the male or female terms, the desire to not want trans man or even androgynous trans man, change and how. Navajo people and the Fa'afafine of Samoa, to make anyone uncomfortable by simply but that didn't fit, either. So I landed on the to name just a few. being yourself, the gendered nature of the agender term, but it doesn't really reach all The “recentness” of nonbinary gender Icelandic language and the lack of repre- parts [of me]. I feel like I have a gender of What does ‘nonbi- identities in Europe and North America is sentation of or education about nonbinary some sort, but it's just really not connected nary’ mean only relative to most Eurocentric cultures. people. to femininity or masculinity. It's more like For many cis people in these countries, and something very different. I haven't found anyway? even for many binary trans people, nonbi- a term yet. The closest I got was aporagen- nary people are a “new” concept that they Let’s talk gender der [a gender identity that is neither male, Simply put, nonbinary is an umbrella term are just now beginning to know. female, nor "something in between"] But I for a set of gender identities that do not In Iceland, nonbinary people are legally When asked what nonbinary gender identity go with agender because people understand adhere entirely, or at all, to the binary male recognised, at least as far as gender mark- they abide by, Regn and Ari Logn describe it a bit more. I don't feel any connection to and female. As it is not a “third gender” but ers in the National Registry are concerned. themselves as agender—that is, lacking any traditional femininity and masculinity." a category in itself, many nonbinary people Naming laws have also been slightly relaxed; gender at all—while Reyn is not entirely sure. "I don't really have a specific label for my can have very divergent gender identities names are no longer relegated to only for "I describe myself as agender,” Ari Logn experience of gender,” Reyn says. “I originally from one another—agender people, bigen- men or only for women, and some gender- says. “I just don't feel like 'woman'; it never landed on agender. At the time I thought I der people and fae gender people are a few neutral names have made it into the lexicon. fit me, it never belonged to me, in the same didn't really care about gender expression 9 The Reykjavík Grapevine Issue 08— 2021

think of this sign I've seen in pictures from puts in your head that you have to do things a bothered me the most, because I wasn't some Pride parade which said: 'People think certain, very ‘traditional’ and capitalistic way following gendered expectations. Coming "You see around gender is male and female, when actually to be a successful human. That has definitely out helped with that, because I could finally it's just a big ball of wibbly-wobbly gendie- had an impact on me, and that's why I felt have a reason for not wanting people to wendie stuff'. I agree with that.” such relief when I realized I could just be ‘me’. address me in certain ways. I think also, to you soci- I'd say that in the last five years since coming some extent, it alleviates some of the pres- back to Iceland I've definitely settled a lot sure to conform to societal norms. It was Getting to know more into being comfortable in my skin as a mostly just a relief to be able to stop pretend- you nonbinary person. I would say it's definitely ing that there was nothing going, so as to ety putting safer for me to be who I am here, compared not rock the boat before I was ready. People If you’re raised in a binary community, how to the UK. I have a lot of privilege as a white understand better now why I feel the way I do do you even come to understand that you’re Icelander.” and why I've been the way I am.” expectations nonbinary? For many, it comes from either “I think a lot of people are scared of nonbi- chance representation, or simply meeting nary people, because we're not comfort- other nonbinary people. Not wanting to able,” Ari Logn says. “We're outside of “I never heard the word 'nonbinary' until bother anyone society's comfort. I've sensed in people that on you. It puts I met other nonbinary people,” Regn says. I've encountered this uncomfortableness. I “I was a really androgynous child. People A common theme that came up in these don't really know how to address it though. wouldn't mistake me for a boy but I felt like a interviews was not wanting to make binary I've tried, like 'hey these are my pronouns, no boy most of the time, since I was like 8 or 9. I people feel scared or uncomfortable when big deal, if you want information I can give in your head also realised really young that I was pansex- confronted with the reality of nonbinary it’. And I try to give information but some ual. I came out in 2018, when I was 20. I was people. This desire to spare the feeling, real people will just make you feel bad about even working with children at the time and there or imagined, of binary people can keep many stating and asserting your pronouns or iden- that you have was this tiny little child who pointed at me nonbinary people in the closet, months or tity. Funnily enough I’ve encountered a lot of and said, 'You're a woman!' and I never felt even years after understanding their own well meaning people who think that because so confused in my entire life. gender identities. Another closeting force I’m not woman, I’m automatically 'man'. It's “Then I went into this self-reflection, is growing up in a binary culture and having the other default. I will have men, more of to do things a asking myself if I was being a misogynist, societal expectations based on one’s assigned the time, asking if it's OK to use 'he' instead. like, do I hate women? Why don't I want to gender at birth foisted upon you. I'll say 'hán' and they'll hear 'hann'. It's like be a woman? I was a really big feminist, I was “When I hit puberty I had a lot of guy they realised that it's 'not woman' so they go the president of the feminist committee at friends, and they sort of expected me to to 'the other one'. But there's more than just certain way to MH [Menntaskóli við Hamrahlíð, a second- become a woman,” Regn says. “They kind man or woman.” ary school]. So I thought of course I don't hate of all slowly evaporated around me, which women, I love women. What is this? Why am was really hard, so I became preoccupied be a successful I reacting like this? This sent me into a spiral with male approval, which is really bad Confronting of an existential crisis, and was really reflect- for anyone. I became really obsessed with misconceptions ing.” becoming as feminine as I possibly could; I They continue: “Then I met a queer wore dresses all the time, I did a lot of tradi- Even after coming out, nonbinary people will human." person at [the nightclub] Gaukurinn during tionally feminine things even though I didn't very often find themselves having to contin- the summer, and they were like 'how do you really care for them. That led to eating disor- uously educate binary people on who they are identify?' and I said 'I think I identify as ders, depression, I was just very sad all the and what their gender identities mean. nonbinary' and it felt so good to say that. I let time. or how people saw me. That changed pretty people use whatever pronouns they wanted, “Then I went to MH, which is a school that soon and I felt 'agender' wasn't appropri- so I was always 'she' for like half a year after has a reputation for [allowing students] to be ate anymore. Since then, I haven't really that. After I came out, I became so much whoever [they] want to be. When I figured been able to come to a conclusion about it. I more confident in myself, so I started asking out that I was nonbinary, everything just fell don't have much of a strong gender identity, people to use they/them, or hán in Icelandic.” into place and made sense in a way that I "I always think which would point to agender, but still I'm “I have this memory of seeing Boys Don't could actually feel comfortable with myself. not completely sure. It's a tough call to make. Cry as a kid,” says Ari Logn. “I was just Being my whole, true self, which is so liber- I sometimes use the label 'trans feminine' amazed. There was something in my brain ating and I still feel so blessed that I actually because I think it describes me well most of that was like 'I connect to this'. I watched a came to this conclusion. I've never looked of this sign I've the time. But otherwise I'm just comfortable lot of things as a kid and I hadn't connected back.” with 'nonbinary'." to anything like I did to this. I didn't even Adds Reyn, “I think if there was any exter- When asked to describe what gender really know about gender at that age; I just nal pressure, it would have been from society even is, things begin to get more nebulous. saw it and thought ‘this makes sense.’ Having as a whole, media and maybe some friends— seen in pictures Ari Logn describes themselves as a gender that experience as a really young person, It most of my friends for most of my life have abolitionist, citing how the concept “seems took me some time to realise how transness been straight cis boys, who have a tendency to completely control what we are ‘allowed’ related to me, though. to maybe think more about these things than from some Pride to do or be.” Regn believes that “each and “My life hasn't really been very traditional, some other groups might.” every person on this planet has their own so I really didn't have gender expectations “I wasn't really bound by these things at gender,” as no two people will have the put on me by family, apart from 'you have a all, but I did start to notice after I realised same understanding of what their gender— vagina so you're a woman'. If there had been I was nonbinary that these expectations are parade which whether assigned at birth or discovered in pressure I never noticed it, anyway. I feel good everywhere. Continuously being labelled by time—means to them. Reyn, for their part, about that. But you notice society putting gendered terms by other people. You can takes a whimsical approach, saying, “I always expectations on you, which subconsciously never just be a person. I think that's what said: 'People think gender is male and female, when actually it's just a big ball of wibbly-wobbly gendie-wendie stuff'. I agree

Some of those aforementioned wibbly-wobbly gendie-wendies with that." 10 The Reykjavík Grapevine Issue 08— 2021

They're here to stay!

“A lot of the time when I tell people I'm been invented—most notably, hán, a gender- nary person who gets represented is a thin, not a man or a woman, some people assume neutral pronoun. white, androgynous person, or a thin, white, that I'm intersex,” Regn says. “And that's if “I am a language enthusiast, and I have AFAB [assigned female at birth] person. "Because I love people know what intersex is, which is not such a big love for Icelandic,” Regn says. “It's There's not a lot of representation of AMAB common. I've also had people tell me 'you such an amazing, beautiful language. Because nonbinary, or those who are disabled, fat, or can't be nonbinary; you're wearing a dress I love the language so much, I acknowledge people of colour. It's this white, very slim, the language and makeup'. I feel like they don't understand the need for change, because languages are Eurocentric people in black shapeless cloth- that even if we look at the binary, there's no supposed to serve the people using them; not ing. And I hate that.” right way to dress a man or a woman; you the people using them serving the language. “I think it's got a lot to do with societal can be a man in a dress or a woman in a Languages are supposed to be accommodat- attitudes,” Reyn says. “Visibility of nonbinary so much, I suit, so I can be nonbinary in a dress with ing. So I think all the new words that we're people plays into that because, traditionally, makeup. When I'm wearing more masculine seeing right now are all such powerful words if nonbinary people are covered at all, it's clothes, people are like 'so are you a man that I can't wait to hear being used regularly. about how special they are for being nonbi- acknowl- today?' Also when I tell people I'm nonbi- When I first started wanting people to use nary. It's slowly changing for the better. But nary, some people think that nonbinary is hán, I also felt a bit uncomfortable with the I've also been seeing more and more nonbi- just one gender, like a gender in itself. But it's gender-neutral ending because it's used nary stories [in traditional media]. It's not an umbrella term. You can be just nonbinary mainly for objects. I got used to it, but I feel much, but it's a big improvement. People still edge the need in itself, but there are so many other identi- other people are still uncomfortable with it are very clueless, so they need to be exposed ties under there. A lot of the time people can't and I understand it totally, but other people to this more. People have to learn—that's the get their head around that there's no connec- are just going to have to get used to it.” root of most problems, because they don't tion to the binary there, because people have “There's plenty of room in Icelandic for know what to say to you, how to treat you, for change, been taught that there is a binary and noth- gender-neutral speech,” Reyn says. “I think how you want to live your life, and that just ing else so it's really new to people. I get that, the efforts that have been made so far have makes it really hard for everyone. Especially and I always approach this topic kindly and been very successful. Hán of course being for people who are marginalised and aren't because gently, because I don't want to scare people the most popular gender-neutral pronoun understood, it's exhausting to continuously off. I want people to understand more than for referring to people. To me it's just very have to explain yourself, every time, to every- they're scared.” natural sounding, easy to say—in fact I one. “I think this thing treating nonbinary sometimes use it accidentally for everyone.” “There's also the naming laws in Iceland. I languages as a third gender option right next to man only have half of my name legally recognised and woman is pretty common,” Reyn adds. due to them. I think it has more of an effect “Sometimes they'll think this third gender What needs to on people than people realise. Official organ- is called by its pronoun, like 'There are three change isations and companies, everywhere you go, are supposed genders: karl, kona and hán'. I've also had being called something that you do not wish people say something to me in masculine When it comes to what needs to change in to be called. The laws don't control what language terms, correct themselves, but then our society that might make it more inclusive people are named; they only control what to serve the switch over to feminine. It's still wrong; it's of nonbinary people, representation plays a people are named officially, so effectively, just a different wrong.” big role. it's just making the National Registry inac- “What I feel is that there is a huge lack of curate. It doesn't serve us as well as it should, nonbinary role models,” Regn says. “I don't because of these senseless limitations on people using Icelandic chal- see myself anywhere, except [in] these very people's names and gender markers.” lenges fringe culture spaces deep on the internet. Ultimately, nonbinary people just want Not being able to see myself in any role the same as any other human being might: them; not the Like many languages, Icelandic is heavily models is pretty hard. I think that's the the freedom to be their authentic selves, to gendered. This applies not just to pronouns, reason why I didn't come out until I was 20. have the same rights and representation as or the genders of certain nouns, but even I probably would have realised sooner that anyone else, to be included in the language adjectives. Fortunately, Icelandic does recog- I was nonbinary if there were a discussion of the community—and most of all, to feel people using nise a gender-neutral case, which has made about it.” free to be happy just the way they are. the language more flexible for nonbinary But even within the context of representa- people than languages that may recognise tion, the kind of representation also matters. only two gender forms. However, Icelandic “We've definitely gotten better at nonbi- them serving still has plenty of room for change to accom- nary representation, too, but I think it lacks modate everyone and some neologisms have diversity,” Regn says. “Almost every nonbi- the language." Find today's events in Iceland! Download our free listings app - APPENING on the Apple and Android stores

CULTURE NEWS

Circular Economy Concert

Toolraiser 2021

Aug. 20-21st - 14:00 & 12:00 - Prikið & R6013 - Bring a tool!

Reykjavík’s DIY, or rather DIT, scene is booming and one of its pillars is the Reykjavík Tool Library, whose annual Toolraiser campaign is back. At this BYOT (bring your own tool, obviously) extravaganza, food, music and fun is covered by a donation of a drill, hammer, sickle or other such gear for the Tool Library’s ever expanding stocklist. The lineup includes 20+ acts that are sure to wow. HJC IKEA, Black Coffee, Saunas & Ju!!lin!

No smiles for the Norse

‘Three Men From The North’ are the Grapevine’s 2021 Frin!e a little defensive because they don’t want to hear about those topics,” Jakob explains. “We Award Winners don’t try to evaluate or cast judgement but BM RETURNS COWARDS rather show different ways of approaching Words: Hannah Jane Cohen Photos: Art Bicnick & Joanna Jakubek, Provided by RVK Fringe them. Hopefully, it gives people a bit of space Misþyrming & Vonlaus to reflect, not in an aggressive way, but in a The IKEA KALLAX shelving unit stands at 77 cheer at both the triumphs of their physical way where people can arrive at their own con- Aug. 14th - 19:00 - Gaukurinn - centimetres high. With four square shelves prowess, but also the moments when they fail. clusions.” 2,000 ISK and a variety of muted colours, it’s one of those “Accidents happen,” Bjarni laughs. “We “Vulnerability is something that we work a IKEA pieces you’ll find at probably every single want to work with failures. The idea that just lot with, but not in a sense that is traditionally Do you check the latest house in Scandinavia. That said—it usually because something didn’t go the way I planned showcased,” he continues. “All the things we underground metal blogs in holds books and knick-knacks. You probably doesn’t mean it’s a mistake. When you start do on stage are incredibly fragile in terms of between squat sets? Do your haven’t seen it used for acrobatic stunts and performing, mistakes can become an even big- a stage relationship, so we have to have a lot hulking arms threaten to crush your ballet choreography, but that’s exactly what ger fantasy. It can become the best story. We all of things in sync between the three of us that laptop as you search for the latest audiences found at “Three Men From The know what it’s like to be screamed at because puts us in a place where none of us can do these Chilean war metal, a gale of blast North”—one of the biggest hits of this year’s you spilled on your mother’s Christmas dinner traditional macho things.” He pauses. “And I beats fluttering out of your vintage Reykjavík Fringe Festival. tablecloth. It’s very human.” think that kind of masculinity is not shown studio monitors? Well, you’ll be in The show was made by the Nordic Coun- often enough.” good company with notoriously cil—a circus troupe composed of juggler Merri With COVID continuing its dark reign, it’s Nietzschean Icelandic black metal Heikkilä from Finland, Swedish aerialist Jakob Vulnerable masculinity unclear when the Nordic Council will take übermenschen, Misþyrming, who Jacobsson, and resident Icelandic circus guru One of the most affecting aspects of the show the stage again. But three men in particular emerge from their tombs for their Bjarni Árnason. The group won the coveted though is the trio’s nuanced exploration of promise to return to Iceland as soon as pos- first post-COVID pagan feast at Grapevine Prize at the 2021 Reykjavík Fringe masculinity. Nordic men have often been as- sible for an encore run of ‘Three Men From The Gaukurinn. Expect dizzying, awards, but the show is so fantastic we’d hap- sociated with being both stoic to the point of North’. In the interim—there’s always another head-pounding riffage and trve pily write about them, award or no award. irrationality, but also rather whimsical. In KALLAX shelf to build. battle jackets. Bring your own “Three Men From The North”, Merri, Jakob and animal blood. EP Bjarni take this dichotomy in stride. Check out the Nordic Council on Facebook and Accidents happen “[Masculinity] is a theme that, very often, Instagram at @TheNordicCouncil. “It’s a tableau of things that we as northerners when you start dealing with gender roles and have in common,” Jakob says, distilling the norms, a lot of people will back up and get circus performance down into a few words. “Adding to that, coming from the north means handling emotions and dealing with things in a certain way—there’s a precision and meth- odology there that we bring to the show.” ‘Three Men From The North’ journeys through many Nordic stereotypes, from the funny—a juggling act with accordion cho- Countryside Art reography—to the serious, such as a mono- logue about the plight of a repressed Finnish The Factory man accompanied by death-defying aerial stunts. No matter where you’re from, it’s a Until Sept. 13th - Djúpavík & Þingeyri romp through the Nordics that invites you to giggle at those clichés—IKEA furniture, An abandoned Djúpavík herring woolen sweaters, more IKEA furniture—that factory, covered top to bottom in truly define the Nordic psyche. beautiful art. An old village house in But the humour of the show comes not only Þingeyri, chock full of multimedia from their celebration (and sometimes mock- pieces. This can only mean one ery) of their own cultures, but the very actions thing: The Factory exhibitions are of the men themselves. As a trio, they’ve in- alive and roaring, necessitating tegrated “mistakes” into their circus perfor- a trip to the Westfjords for any mances, adding a layer of humility and relat- cultural connoisseur. This year’s ability that’s both unexpected and hysterical. lineup is as spectacular as ever and While the audience is certainly duped the first seriously—you’d be doing yourself time one drops a club or stumbles through a a disservice by missing it. HJC trick, once they get the wink-wink humour that each fumble is intentional, they begin to Yes, those are IKEA fabric storage bins they are wearing The Reykjavík Grapevine 12 Culture Issue 08— 2021

A neon sign and burlesque? We're in

ally, Gréta stumbled into the aca- underwent a facelift. “It’s no lon- demic world, which allowed her ger like you’re coming to the den- to create, reshape and understand tist,” she laughs. Hints of nostalgia Creatin! Possibilities In her own identity. “That’s how I pervade, though, but with a touch came into the theatre. I see it as a of vintage class; you can almost tool to recreate what’s possible.” smell the glamour emitting from the wall panels. The Under!round While creating a comfortable Fostering a future The National Theatre Of Iceland provides a stage for space for the public was impor- Alternative art forms, Gréta em- tant, above all else Gréta wanted to marginalised artists phasises, have long struggled to give artists a nice place to perform. make their way through the doors And starting in September, guests Words: Brittnee Kiner Photos: Art Bicnick of institutions like the will be able to catch National Theatre, matinées along with Cultural capital which has focused drag brunches next Recognition of Iceland’s vibrant Gréta Kristín Ómarsdóttir, Cre- on more convention- “I just spring hosted by arts culture radiates across the ative Director of the National “Queer culture was practically al performances. wanted to the legendary drag globe—as does the assumption Theatre Basement, Kjallarinn. Af- non-existent [when I grew up],” “Historically and queen Gógó Starr. that the scene has always been ter a year-long renovation of the Gréta explains. “That has a lot to do politically, theatre is add to an The atmosphere as diverse as it is today. In reality space—which was long kept alive with why it’s important to me and about creating pos- already will be mild by day, though, much of Reykjavík’s un- by improv performances—she’s why I have a passion for it. I wasn’t sibilities for people,” Gréta explains, but derground artists have always been ready to reopen, pulling aside the born with any cultural capital.” she says. “We have to blossoming the space will trans- just that—underground. It’s only velvet curtain of the historically Gréta was born in a small town, be aware when we’re form into a speak- recently that traditionally “low” non-diverse institution to make she explains, so exposure to queer working in theatre, scene.” easy style theatre by artforms, like burlesque, cabaret room for what she refers to as “raw culture was minimal until she we’re actually creat- night, equipped with and drag, have begun to depart art.” And what’s “raw art”? Well, moved to Reykjavík. This led to a ing meaning—espe- a full bar. Cocktail from the confinement of queer it’s the kind of culture that has al- bit of a crisis of identity—repre- cially for a public institution that’s names will be adorned with refer- bars and other diversity-friendly ways existed in the margins, but sentation matters. “Being a queer funded with public money.” ences to the shows of the night, venues. Now, they’re knocking on now it’ll be given the same respect person, I had this identity that Of course, the queer community such as the “Burlesque Spritz” or the door of Þjóðleikhúsið, Iceland’s and attention as culturally main- didn’t really relate to what was ex- also pays taxes, making their rep- “Improv Mule." National Theatre. stream theatrical and operatic per- pected of me. So, I had to sort of resentation equally valid. There- Key to this radical change is formances. And it’s about time. make my own,” she says. Eventu- fore, Kjallarinn is about to pres- ent one of its most dynamic and Under the pavement diverse stages yet. “We also have Gréta’s ultimate goal is to create to be aware of what stories we are an elevated space for marginalised telling.” she explains, passionately. artists. “All of these scenes have “This is a place where [artists] can grown so much in the past five grow and elevate their form.” years, such as the drag scene in Radiating warmth, Gréta ad- Iceland—it has just blown up,” she mits that she hopes to “create a continues. “Kjallarinn is a classic family here and give the artists an joint––it doesn’t have sticky floors opportunity to grow. I want the and you don’t have to rely on tips audiences of the National Theatre to actually survive working in this to get something that they don’t field. I just wanted to do my part expect.” to add to an already blossoming “It’s also for queer people who scene.” have been marginalized but have Whether you’re creative, queer found glamour in their grievance or just curious, take a moment to to create their own culture,” she step below the streets of Reykja- says. And now they can share that vik into the revitalized Kjallarinn, with the world. opening soon. Cabaret, burlesque, drag artists and more will trans- form the once bland basement into Restoration of old a vibrant playground of entertain- charm ment and expression. Stepping into the dimly lit Kjal- larinn, you would never guess that See the schedule for upcoming shows its wooden and warm details en- at Kjallarinn at leikhusid.is. dured a large scale renovation this year. Gréta and her team managed to revive the space, restoring its Cue the champagne! Oh wait, Gréta's way ahead of us original charm. The entrance even OUR STORES IN REYKJAVÍK: FARMERS & FRIENDS The Reykjavík Grapevine 14 Best of Reykjavík Issue 08— 2021 a French couple, this shop sells high-quality French products as well as other hard-to-find delicacies for the gastro-inclined. Don’t have time in the midst of the festivities to stop by the store? You can also order online at hyalin- shop.com. We’d love it if you got some goods for us too and dropped them by the office, btw.

Barónessan

Barónsstígur 27

Flowers! Queer-owned flowers! Look, if you’ve spent any time on lesbian TikTok, you know queer ladies love some peonies. So pick some Æsir Cannabidiol up at this downtown flower boutique and wow your partner with a bouquet, along with Hverfisgata 39 a handmade vegan dinner and screening of some Sarah Paulson show. Queer ladies love It’s 2021. Happiness is out of control. Gay- Awwww <3 <3 Sarah. owned CBD oil has taken the country by storm, meaning that no one is riddled with bodily or mental pain after too much danc- ing at the various Pride drag shows. Civilisa- Time For Your Wallet To tion rises. Britney is freed. Carly Rae Jepsen’s ‘Emotion’ is finally given the respect it de- Come Out! serves. Life is good. Your guide to Reykjavík’s queer-owned businesses

Words: The Official Grapevine Queer Capitalist Community Photos: Provided By Locations

How can you best support queers? With your fundamental queer sexual awakening? Pallett money, obviously. To be honest, there were WAY too many queer-owned spots to choose from in Strandgata 75, Hafnarfjörður Reykjavík, so here’s a selection of our favourites. Just because you’re in Hafnarfjörður doesn’t mean you can’t contribute to the Gay Agen- Sæta Húsið da™. Tucked away in the harbourside town, Pallett Coffee Shop serves up flaky pastries, Laugavegur 6 delightful veggie sausage rolls, and some tru- ly spectacular coffee. Bring your queer British OK, SÆTA HÚSIÐ IS QUEER OWNED. WHAT? friends. They’ll freak out (respectfully and The Grapevine office’s Pride Department quietly, of course.) freaked out after learning said information because we love Sæta Húsið. So if you’ve been drooling over that luscious Thai-rolled ice cream on Instagram, we have good news! This Modus Hár queer-owned spot is ready to serve deliciously fresh rolled ice cream, mixed with all sorts of Stórhöfði 33 candy and fruit. Also, they are queer-owned.

Café Babalú Hair is to queers what ‘Friends’ is to cisgender straight people. To get it done by people who Skólavörðustígur 22 do it right, head to Modus Hár. Owned by a queer couple, the place has a great vibe and “What was Princess Many a Grapevine interview has been con- can serve up pretty much anything you want. Leia if not a ducted in the cosy upstairs seating area of They are also a big supporter of the local queer Babalú. Warm and cheery, Babalú is a Reyk- scene, which must be applauded. For north- fundamental queer javík institution, serving up lovely coffee and erners, there’s also a location in Akureyri and Hyalin even lovelier vegan carrot cake. So if you’re for those far out in the countryside, the same sexual looking for a post-parade pep up, get some owners also operate harvorur.is which is our Hverfisgata 35 awakening?” caffeine and conversation at this Grapevine favourite online store for hair care in Iceland. favourite. They also have a Star Wars themed Along with candles, tarot and astrology, bathroom. And what was Princess Leia if not a queers also notoriously love to cook. Owned by

Homemade cakes & soups, vegan & friendly food

Private rooms & dorms

Best selection of Icelandic Beers in the East

Happy Hour all days 15 - 19

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“There would be conversations, laughter and love. It would be a mo- ment fully lived.”

Words: Erik Pomrenke Photo: Art Bicnick Torfi Tulinius close by. Enjoying a light and tasty of winning and the fact that losing Torfi Tulinius is a professor of breakfast while following the news, does not matter, also the interaction Icelandic Medieval Studies at the until my thoughts turn to the tasks with other players, the camaraderie University of Iceland. He completed that await me: writing a paper, pre- of sports. his PhD at the Sorbonne in 1992 paring a lesson, practicing guitar. and has written extensively on the Morning is for letting oneself be en- Intoxication & being together Icelandic family sagas, with an grossed by one’s projects, the plea- emphasis on genre and form. sure of seeing them progress, of get- Good evenings are spent with loved ting things done, of acquiring new ones: my wife, my family, my friends. We muse with him on his ideal day skills, but also of developing ideas, Exchanging stories, watching a game and, by extension, the good life. testing them, seeing where they take of football, savoring a good meal, ex- me. cellent wine, but only occasionally as Walking & remembering consuming alcohol too frequently Acting & thinking dims the light of being. The same ap- Humanity remembers the past and plies to television and the Internet. projects itself into the future. This It is also essential to follow what is Though they enrich our lives, they are ability is a blessing and likely one of happening in intellectual life, to be like memory and anticipatory think- Don't Hesitate! the reasons for mankind’s success alert to what can possibly be of use ing in the sense that they keep us shop.grapevine.isAct Now! as a species. As all blessings, howev- to me in my work. Equally important away from the joy of the moment, er, it has negative aspects. Too o%en, is to be creative in adapting it to my as well as frustrating our deep need we are so busy mulling over the past needs. Working with ideas and man- for community. A perfect evening or worrying about the future that we aging to explain and illuminate some would be without either of these forget to seize the moment in all its aspect of reality is a pleasure and a two fixtures of modern life. It would warmth and beauty. privilege. be spent with friends and family. In- Venue Finder My best possible day would be one I enjoy physical activity, prefer- stead of staring at screens, there Venues Museums & Galleries of fully lived moments. ably in the form of contest. Midday would be conversations, laughter, The numbers (i.e. E4) tell you the position ART67 The Penis Museum Ásmundarsafn Waking up in a bright room and would be a game of tennis, basket- and love. It would be a moment fully on the map on the next page. The letter Laugavegur 67 F7 Kalkofnsvegur 2 D4 Sigtún Open daily 9-21 Open daily 10-18 Open daily 10-17 is the row, the number is the column. remembering a sweet dream while ball or, later in the afternoon, golf. lived. Ásmundarsalur Kirsuberjatréð Reykjavík City Library seeing a loved one still slumbering I love the exercise, the fun, the joy Austur Mengi Freyjugata 41 G6 Vesturgata 4 D3 Tryggvagata 15 D3 Austurstræti 7 D3 Óðinsgata 2 F5 Open Tue-Sun 8-17 M-F 10-18, Sat-Sun Mon-Thu 10-19, Fri 11- 10-17 18, Sat-Sun 13-17 American Bar Nordic House Aurora Reykjavík Austurstræti 8 D3 Sturlagata 5 H2 Grandagarður 2 B1 Kling & Bang Árbæjarsafn Open 09-21 Grandagarður 20 A4 Kistuhylur 4 Bíó Paradís Ölsmiðjan W-Sun 14-18, Th 12-21 Open daily 13-17 Hverfisgata 54 E5 Lækjargata 10 E3 Ásgrímur Jónsson t Museum Living Art Museum The Settlement Bravó Paloma Bergstaðastr. 74 G4 Granadarður 20 A4 Exhibition Vital Info Laugavegur 22 E5 Naustin D3 July 8-Sep 1, Mon-Fri T-Sun 12-18, Th 12-21 Aðalstræti 16 D3 Open daily 9-18 Dillon Prikið Berg Contemporary Mokka Kaffi Laugavegur 30 E5 Bankastræti 12 E4 Klapparstígur 16 E5 Skólavörðustíg. 3A E5 Reykjavík Museum Useful Numbers Opening Hours - Bars & Clubs Public Toilets Tu-F 11-17, Sat 13-17 Open daily 9-18:30 of Photography Dubliner R6013 Tryggvagata 15 D3 Emergency: 112 Bars can stay open until 1:00 on week- Public toilets in the centre can be found Naustin 1-3 D3 Ingólfsstræti 20 E4 The Culture House Museum of Design Mon-Thu 10-18, Fri 11- Hverfisgata 15 E5 and Applied Art 18, Sat-Sun 13-18 On-call doctors: 1770 days and weekends until 4:30. inside the green-poster covered towers English Pub Röntgen Open daily 10–17 Garðatorg 1 Austurstræti 12 D3 Hverfisgata 12 E5 Open Tu-Sun 12-17 Saga Museum Dental emergency: 575 0505 located at Hlemmur, Ingólfstorg, by The Einar Jónsson Grandagarður 2 B2 Opening Hours - Shops & Banks Gaukurinn Reykjavík Roasters Museum The National Open daily 10-18 Taxi: Hreyfill: 588 5522 - BSR: 561 0000 Hallgrímskirkja, by Reykjavík Art Mu- Tryggvagata 22 D3 Kárastígur 1 F5 Eiriksgata G5 Gallery of Iceland Most shops: Mon–Fri 10–18, Sat 10–16, seum, Lækjargata and by Eymundsson Open Tue–Sun 10–17 Fríkirkjuvegur 7 F3 Sigurjón Ólafsson Hard Rock Café Tjarnarbíó Open daily 10–17 Museum Post Office Sun closed. Banks: Mon-Fri 09-16 on Skólavörðustígur. Toilets can also be Lækjargata 2a D3 Tjarnargata 12 E3 Exxistenz Laugarnestangi 70 Bergstaðast. 25b F4 The National Open Tu-Sun 14-17 The downtown post office has moved to found inside the Reykjavík City Hall and Iðnó Museum Swimming Pools Vonarstræti 3 E3 Gallerí List Suðurgata 41 G2 SÍM Hagatorg 1, open Mon–Fri, 09:00–17:00. the Reykjavík Library. Skipholt 50A H10 Open daily 10–17 Hafnarstræti 16 D3 Sundhöllin, the downtown pool at Kex Hostel M-F 11-18, Sat 11-16 Open Mon-Fri 10-16 Skúlagata 28 E7 The Nordic House Pharmacies Barónsstígur, is an outdoor swimming Public Transport Hafnarborg Sturlugata 5 H2 Tveir Hrafnar Kaffibarinn Strandgata 34, 220 Thu-Tu 11-17, W 11-20 Baldursgata 12 G4 Lyf og heilsa, Fiskislóð 1, tel: 561 4600 pool with hot tubs and a diving board. Most buses run every 20–30 minutes Bergstaðastræti 1 E4 Open Wed-Mon 12-17 Open Fri-Sat 13-16 Hafnarhús Lyfja, Hafnarstræti 19, tel: 552 4045 More pools: gpv.is/swim Fare: 490 ISK adults, 245 ISK children. Kiki Queer Bar Hverfisgallerí Tryggvagata 17 D3 Wind & Weather Laugavegur 22 E5 Hverfisgata 4 D4 Open 10-17, Thu 10-22 Window Gallery Open: Mon-Thu from 06:30–22. Buses run from 06–24:00, and 7–04:30 on Tu-Fri 13-17, Sat 14-17 Hverfisgata 37 E5 Loft Kjarvalsstaðir Sat from 08–16. Sun from 10–18. weekends. More info: www.bus.is. Bankastræti 7 E4 i8 Gallery Flókagata 24 H8 Tryggvagata 16 D3 Open daily 10-17 Tu-Fri 11-18, Sat 13-17 A Downtown & Just behind the University of A Reykjavík overlooking the Nauthólsvík Harbour DistrictÐ geothermal beach is Nauthóll, the FISKISLÓ Get the bigger, moreThe detailed version of The ReykjavíkMap Grapevine definition of a hidden summertime ÐUR City Map at your nearest hotel or guesthouse, with selections from our gem. The restaurant is one of those Best-Of awards, vital info, downtown bus stops and a wider view of the city. places that downtown Reykjavík rats GRANDAGAR ELEGANT PREMISES might call “too far away,” but with IN THE HEART OF the advent of public scooters, you B Maritime REYKJAVIK 6. Snaps can arrive there in style in but 15 ! Museum minutes. Without hyperbole, there BREAKFAST and BRUNCH Dining Þórsgata 1 probably isn’t a better outdoor view Saga Aurora LUNCH and DINNER MENU in the city than this place—and their Museum Reykjavik LOCAL and FOREIGN DISHES Year after year, regardless of how Scandinavian fare is good too. 1. Blackbox Pizza ÁNANAUST HAPPY HOUR DAILY 15-18:00 many restaurants open and close, NÝ Borgartún 26 Snaps remains a timeless classic. LE ND HOLTSGATA U M C GATA Ý Be it lunch, date-night dinner, lazy SELJAVEGUR RA RG Blackbox is a solid competitor for weekend brunches or a boisterous Drinking ATA best pizza pie in the city. Thin crust, Christmas work party, Snaps is the FRAMNESVEGUR BANKASTRÆTI 7A - 101 REYKJAVÍK - TEL. 562 3232 inventive toppings, delivery— perfect venue for a boatload of 12. Prikið ÍGUR VESTURGATA what else could you ask for? We'd memories. Steady standbys include BÁRUGATA ARST RÁNARGATA particularly recommend the Parma the deeply savoury onion soup (with Bankastræti 12 HOLTSG. ÖLDUGATA Rucola, which serves up all the parma a union of its own we suspect), GATA RABORG RIMANNASTÍGUR THE Ð Ý ham goodness you could wish for. the house-made fries with crispy Prikið is the bar version of the “I’m ST D BRÆ For those journeying outside the city, rosemary that begs to be a meal on going to bed early tonight vs. me at MARARG. TÚNGATA ÆGISGATA they've also got a location in Akureyri. its own, and a textbook crème brûlée 3 a.m.” meme. At 22:00 you’ll have a HÁ topped with an envious snap. bunch of regulars relaxing at the bar VALLAGATA S WAY ÓLVALLAGATA to plan your journey 2. Chikin sipping brews, but arrive at 3:00 and TÚNGATA it’s Project X. Their outdoor smoking ÁS 7. Hlemmur Mathöll VALLAGATA Ingólfsstræti 2 area should be applauded too. Hang Hlemmur out long enough and you’ll be sure This ain’t your mama's KFC. No, to buddy up and find an afterparty. E HÓLAVALLAG. Chikin—Reykjavík’s first dedicated Once a bus station and now a bustling SÓLVALLAGATA hot chicken and bao joint— food hall—we love a repurposed 13. Röntgen manages to be at once both totally space. Hlemmur Mathöll is a classic sophisticated foodie cuisine and in the Reykjavík dining scene, with Hverfisgata 12 REYNIMELUR HRINGBRAUT URGATA also food that’ll definitely fill the everything from Vietnamese street Ð

VÍ SU hole in your soul you usually quench food to delicious gelato to old If the cancellation of literallyÐ IMELUR Strætó with a spicy Twister. So grab some school Italian pizza present. Yum. everything is damping your F LJÓSVALLAGATA The o!cial Icelandic chicken with pickled daikon, shiitake glamorous rock and roll style, Hólavalla- public transport app mushrooms, miso mayo and lots of 8. Dragon Dim Sum Röntgen at Hverfisgata 12 will cure garður other delicacies. what ails you. This place—a relative Cemetary Bergstaðastræti 4 newcomer—is already a stalwart ESPIMELUR 3. Hosiló in the bar scene, with a stellar B For those of us longing for dim sum atmosphere, great drinks and a Hverfisgata 12 in Reykjavík, cravings have often lineup of the best DJs in Iceland. G FURUMELUR had to be satisfied with daydreams Just remember to raise a glass to National BIRKIMELUR library A newcomer on the block who has of visits past to dim sum houses of the good doctor Wilhelm Röntgen certainly made a big stir! Hosiló is Chinatowns abroad. But then Dragon (who discovered x-rays) while a small spot—seating around 30 Dim Sum arrived with their fare, which sipping your tipple. National museum patrons at full capcity—that offers is the perfect marriage between an eclectic rotating menu of local Icelandic ingredients and labouring 14. Húrra fresh food. The offerings feature of Asian dim sum passion. Don't miss meals from around the world, from their bao or shao mai, and don't Tryggvagata 22 H ÐURGATA SU French cuisine to Northern Africa worry, their carrot vegan dumplings University goodness, and much more. are also sublime. Húrra is BACK! ARE YOU SERIOUS? YES, of Iceland WE ARE! After a despairing absense 4. Kaffi Laugalækur 9. Lamb Street Food from the local scene, the beloved favourite has returned with a Laugarnesvegur 74a Grandagarður 7 vengence. Seriously—in the few weeks they've been open, the bar/ STURLUAGATA SÆMUNDARGATA I For many a young parent, the cafe Pure Icelandic lamb with a middle venue has already had shows from Nordic House Culture Center Laugavegur 60A, 101 Reykjavík stop at the end of a long stroll is eastern twist—that’s what you’ll get heavyweights like Skrattar,FÁLKAGATA Skóffin 1 2 himalayanspiceiceland.com the proverbial pot of gold. Kaffi at this juicy local eatery where pure and Mannveira. Stop by for vibes, Lækur is especially popular with kebab is served up with no processed alochol and other fun things like

new parents, with a special kids’ meat. For all you vegans though, that you know. Also, their bathroom establishmentsARAGATA in Reykjavík, The C corner for crawlers and drawers. never fear, the fresh made salads renovation is pretty crazy. Icelandic Bar isODDAGATA the only one that is The generously topped chicken and hummus are equally wowing. This also a restaurant. Go there at night and pesto ‘litla gula hænan’ and the ain’t your regular kebab spot. 15. Veður and maybe you'll meet an elf or Björk Wine bar ‘shawaramabake’ are our top lunch or something—that's all people know picks. Also, if you're keto, don't miss 10. Laundromat Klapparstígur 33 about Iceland anyway. & food 'em, Austurstræti 9 This charming, low-key, hole-in-the- 17. Mál og Menning 5. Brauð & Co wall serves up some great cocktails Have you ever wanted to have lunch and a dedicated crowd that has Laugavegur 18b Frakkastígur 16 and do your laundry in a public place? grabbed the heart of the Grapevine, You’re in luck. The Laundromat Cafe even though we are a magazine and Wait, a new bar/music venue? Yup! First off—don't miss Brauð & Co's on Austurstræti is open (again) for not humans. If you feel fine relaxing And you thought the pandemic had pretzel croissants unless you business. Whether you want brunch, and chatting, it’s still a nice and destroyed all culture in this town. really don't want to have a spiritual a sandwich, or a burger, they have sophisticated bar, but they've also But never fear—Bókabúðir Máls og experience. We also swear by their a quality selection of food made to got an edge. Sometimes they play Menningar is here. There's live music “snuður”—cinnamon bread rolls order. Their brunch ain't nothing to punk music. \m/ most nights, from DJs to jazz, and smothered with a sugary glaze. scoff at either, during the day, the legendary Bókin They take it a step further and stuff 16. Íslenski Barinn is operating from the basement. the classics with blueberries and 11. Nauthóll Seriously—we anticipate this place VÍNSTÚKAN whatnot, eliciting inappropriate Ingólfsstræti 1a will be a game-changer in the local satisfied moans. Get there early to Nauthólsvegur 106 cultural scene. Takk fyrir. snatch a warm one. Of the many nation-themed drinking E HÓLMASLÓ

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Downtown & Marshall House Viðey ferry Harbour DistrictÐ ÐAR GAR TTA FISKISLÓ New In Town LE ÐUR Loo.koo.mas K Grandi Laugavegur 30 GRANDAGAR Mathöll Sure, donuts are cool, but have you ever Maritime had loukoumas? These Greek “donuts”— Sigurjón KLETTAGARÐ Museum more accurately described as fried Art dough, traditionally drizzled with honey, Museum AR Aurora cinnamon and sesame seeds—are a VESTURGAR Saga light, crispy, airy treat that you can pick Museum Reykjavik up at Loo.koo.mas, which just opened up ÐAR ÁNANAUST at Laugavegur 30. Served with a home-

NÝ spun charm, loukoumas are fried to or- LE ND HOLTSGATA U M der, always fresh and make for a great GATA Ý SÆBRAUT SELJAVEGUR RA RG snack while enjoying some window shop- KLEPPSVEGUR ATA LÁGHOLTSVEGUR ping. We recommend the chocolate and FRAMNESVEGUR cream topping—yum! ASF SGRANDI EIÐ ÍGUR VESTURGATA SUNDABORG BÁRUGATA GRANDAVEGUR ARST RÁNARGATA GEIRSGATA Harpa KIRKJUSANDUR HOLTSG. ÖLDUGATA Concert ATA KLEPPSVEGUR AG RABORG RIMANNASTÍGUR Hall HRINGBRAUT LL Ð Ý Reykjavík RVA TU ST VES BRÆ Art Museum ÁLAGRANDI MARARG. ÆTI R TÚNGATA ÆGISGATA

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LANGAHL BÓLSTA A mix between grunge and classy, entirely direct sunlight (!!!!!!!!!!). Way more than your average design goes far beyond the latest Björk or SÍ ÐARHLÍ HÁALEITISBRAUT HRI MIKLABRAUT Ð Dillon Whiskey Bar dominates NGBRAUT store, Nielsen is filled to the brim Sigur Rós offerings.Ð In fact, it's best UMÚLI STARHAGI 23. Stefánsbúð/p3 KRINGLUM ÁLFHEIMAR HEIMAR their little stretch of Laugavegur. with knick-knacks from all over, from if youSKAFTA just let them take the lead. Ð NAUTHÓLSVEGUR HLÍ Crammed most nights with rockers, gorgeous diaries to cosy towels and Laugavegur 7 Ð ÁLFTAMÝRI GO metalheads, and tourists looking all the candles you could desire. Ð Shopping 25. Húrra Reykjavík SAFAM for a place to mumble AC/DC songs Stop by, grab something for a giftESKIHLÍ Stefánsbúð showcases local SÓLHEIMAR SKÓGARHLÍ BARMAHLÍ BÚSTA Ý into their beer, Dillon boasts a wide and don't forget a little something designers and second-handÐ high- Hverfisgata 18A RI 20. Íslenzka Húðflúrstofan REYKJAHLÍ Ð selection of over 100 whiskies and for yourself. fashion finds (hello 1990’s Gucci!) MIKLABRAUT Ð MÁVAHLÍ hosts some of Iceland’s best hard Ingólfsstræti 3 AVEGUR Ð as well as accessories from quirky This minimalist streetwear/ Ð STIGAHLÍ LJÓSHEIMAR ÞORRAGATA rock bands on the weekends. international brands. Fun and zany, athleisure store serves up a mixed 22. Fótógrafi Ð Ð DRÁPUHLÍ This classic shop caters to all styles, you don’t know what you’re going selection of classic items and trendy GNO Ð SKEIFAN with a roster of artists that serve Skólavörðustígur 22 to find but you know it’ll be exciting. cuts. They were massively hyped Ð 19. Petersen svítan ARVOGUR up everything from realism to new- BLÖNDUHLÍ when they openedGRÆNAHLÍ a few years ago STAKKAHLÍ Austurstræti 12 school and more. We’d particularly Fótógrafí claims to have been one 24. Lucky RecordsÐ and have stayed hypedÐ because recommend the hand-poked pieces of the first photo galleries in town. they know what they are doing and FLUGVALLARVEGUR MIKLABRAUT FELLSMÚLI The sun is finally out, which means by Habba (@habbanerotattoo). Not While its interior is tiny, there’s a Rauðarárstígur 10 are damn good at it. Reykjavík GRENSÁSVEGUR Domestic it’s time for your annual pilgrimage only are they gorgeously ornate in surprising number of photos to be to Petersen svítan. Never been? Well, that straight-out-of-800-AD-way, found inside. The pictures on display Lucky Records is probably the HAMRAHLÍ Airport Ð Terminal Kringlan make sure to bring your sunglasses but they might save you from spirits. are mainly shot in Reykjavík or biggest record shop in Iceland, with Ð Shopping HÖRGSHLÍÐ EINARSNES Mall F HÁAHLÍ Party Every Night. Cocktails! Ð

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Nauthólsvík Beach The Reykjavík Grapevine 18 Music Issue 08— 2021 tion” as what drew him into the ways see a connection of music and scene.“Every walk in the moun- some certain set of views or ideolo- tains or the forests is a black met- gies that are reflected in it. What I “Every walk in al moment,” he explains. “Black think and what I love or hate will metal is an echo of nature, in my always be a central influence on my the mountains books.” music, even if it’s not necessarily or the forests Although Adrian’s previous reflected in the lyrics.” band, Fourth Crusade, was a vegan is a black metal metallic hardcore project—quite In times of plague moment. Black different sonically from his dun- geon synth and ambient projects— Of course, it’s impossible for an metal is an there is, as Adrian explains, a spir- artist to not be affected in some itual continuity between them. way by COVID. For a solo artist, echo of nature “I would always view music or however, COVID also presented in my books.” art in general as a vessel of the art- some opportunities for creative ist’s spirit,” he says. “Hence, I al- productivity. “The consequences of the pan- demic were the cradle of the music that I create these days. Without COVID and all the frustrations and anger that it has caused me I’d likely never have recorded these songs,” Adrian says. Recording solo allows for great freedom and while many of us were wasting away in quarantine, Adrian was furiously producing material. Adrian looking trvely grim “People started to vent through music and art so I think this pan- demic pushed the creativity in many individuals all over the globe and helped them to create art from Untamed honest feelings,” he concludes. “As of now, I can’t really tell what will happen after this. But I don’t really see it all ending anytime soon.” Ne!ativity So have we seen the end of Adri- an’s curse? The omens say other- Adrian Brachmann’s explosive entrance to black wise. metal Words: Erik Pomrenke Photos: Provided by Adrian gpv.is/music Share this + Archives Album to time,” he admits. But with re- gard to his own creative projects, Listen to Adrian’s work at nidstong. he generally stays trve to metal. bandcamp.com and akthganaheth. Of course, not all of us hoard bandcamp.com. rare Norwegian demo tapes. So for readers unacquainted with For the last two years, Iceland has these niche subgenres—what does Taste the been cursed with a deluge of heavy Adrian’s music actually sound like? albums and EP’s, bursting upon us “Raw, cold and primitive,” is his like rats pouring out of Nosferatu’s terse response. crypt. With various projects, in- cluding Äkth Gánahëth, Níðstöng, best of Iceland Fimbulþul, Spectral Full Moon, What is Icelandic black Úlfhéðinn and others, the appear- metal? ance of the mysterious Adrian Like so many artists, Adrian draws Brachmann on the Icelandic Black inspiration from the landscape Metal scene was sudden and pro- and nature of Iceland. That said— digious. he’s originally from Germany and It is not often that a musician only moved here some years ago. emerges ex nihilo with so many “I’d consider my music Icelan- ideas and his corpus to date repre- dic insofar as Iceland has been ICELANDIC GOURMET FEAST sents something of an omnibus of the environment that surrounded contemporary extreme music, dab- me when I wrote and recorded it,” Starts with a shot of the infamous Icelandic bling in dark ambient, black metal, Adrian states. “Iceland itself has spirit Brennívín hardcore punk and noise. Clearly, had tremendous influence on how Followed by 7 delicious tapas Adrian is not a man who spent his the music turned out in the end.” lock-down watching Netflix. Icelandic black metal has devel- • Smoked puffin with blueberry “brennivín” sauce oped a very distinct sound in the • Icelandic Arctic Charr with peppers-salsa last years, but the sounds of Äkth Raw productivity Gánahëth and Níðstöng represent • Lobster tails baked in garlic “Currently, I have four main proj- a departure from the more dis- • Pan-fried line caught blue ling with lobster sauce ects going,” Adrian says, as if it sonant, anxious sound of house- were the most natural thing in the hold favourites Misþyrming and • Icelandic lamb with beer-butterscotch sauce world. “Two of them are black met- Svartidauði. In contrast, both Äkth • Minke Whale with cranberry & malt sauce al projects and two are what one Gánahëth and Níðstöng are more would call dark ambient or dun- energetic, punky, affirmative and, And for dessert geon synth. While they all have a dare one say, fun? common influences, I definitely “Musically, I don’t see myself • White chocolate "Skyr" mousse with passion coulis see them as completely different anywhere near any of the bands ideas.” on this island, although I respect Adrian is something of a black them a lot,” Adrian confesses. “My metal traditionalist, citing bands influences come from a different like Darkthrone, Ildjarn and Celtic part of black metal.” 8.990 kr. Frost as important influences. But his traditionalism is by no means small-mindedness and he fer- Untamed negativity vently listens to everything from Adrian was raised on a steady diet hardcore bands like Integrity and of extreme metal and hardcore Book your table G.I.S.M. to Berlin-school ambient from the tender age of 15, citing TAPASBARINN and neofolk. “Outside influences the “relentless raw energy and can lead to great results from time untamed display of negative emo- Vesturgata 3B | Tel: 551 2344 | tapas.is The Reykjavík Grapevine 19 Music Issue 08— 2021 Event Picks

all the cute acoustic music you usually get in the Icelandic summer. Featuring a lineup of Grapevine goth favourites Kælan Mika, U.K. doom droners Bismuth, Dutch black metal duo Doodswens, other Grapevine faves PORT, and more, it’ll be The Office Pub Quiz The Vintage Caravan sure to dim the midnight MUSIC The recent uptick in COVID sun with some much Au!. 19th - 21:00 - Lebowski Bar - Free! Au!. 28th - 21:00 - IÐNÓ - 4,000 ISK NEWS cases meant that the many needed leather and lace. festivals of Verslunarman- Dress to depress. (But Sip on a nice Merlot with an oaky af- Psychedelic rockers The Vintage nahelgi, Iceland’s beloved party Brennuöld Fest 2021 don’t forget to have fun.) terbirth and eat some mixed berry Caravan released their fifth album, weekend, have been cancelled or (Or don’t.) (Fun might be yo!hurt as you flex your knowled!e ‘Monuments,’ last April and now rescheduled. Þjóðhátið—the biggest Aug. 28th - 13:00 - KEX Hostel - 4,500 ISK anti-goth in your view.) of The O&ce. Make sure to show that we’re all vaccinated, they're one—has been postponed and is cur- (Not in ours.) (We love up early so you don't have to sit in finally having their hotly-anticipated rently expected to be held sometime A new festival? Count gloomiest and most fun and also crying to the annex and note that scores will release show. So expand your mind at the end of the summer. All tickets us in. Brennuöld fest, eerie tunes around, ‘The Crow’ alone in our be counted with the Kelevin, so we (no drugs required) and take a trip are still valid but they can also be based at KEX Hostel, is meaning it’ll be a good rooms.) HJC can’t promise it’ll be accurate. Also, that’ll probably include a lot of fringe refunded or transferred to Þjóðhátið all about the darkest, palate cleanser from don’t wear !reen. It’s whorish. HJC and guitar solos. HJC 2022. Innipúkinn has similarly been cancelled, with an option to either have your ticket refunded or opt to do- August 6th—September 2nd nate the money to the artists affected. Laugarbakki’s Norðanpaunk won’t be held either and—you guessed it—tick- Tuesday August 17th 20:30 Bæjarbíó ets will be valid for next year’s festival Valdimar or refunded. Lastly, the newest festival Concerts & Ni!htlife Karaoke Party! 20:30 Harpa on the market—Gaukurinn’s Hljóðhátíð 20:00 Gaukurinn Úlfúð í eyrum—has been rescheduled to run 20:00 Gaukurinn October 7th to 10th. The lineup and Wednesday August 18th DJ Silja Glömmi tickets will remain the same, though Events listed are all live performances and 20:00 Kex Hostel there is an option for a refund. So… we DJs. Venues are listed by day. For complete Jack & Joey guess 2022 will be fun. Thanks, Delta. listin!s and detailed information on venues 20:00 Gaukurinn Saturday August 28th visit !rapevine.is/happenin!. Thursday August 19th Brennuöld Fest Send your listin!s to: listin!s@!rapevine.is. 13:00 Kex Hostel The O&ce Pub Quiz The Vinta!e Caravan 21:00 Lebowski Bar 21:00 IÐNÓ Benni Hemm Hemm Jón Jónsson 20:00 Kex Hostel 21:00 Harpa Friday August 6th Folk Music NI!ht New Classics & The Icelandic Sym- Reykjavík Jazz Festival: LILJA & Kath- 20:00 Kex Hostel phony rine Windfelt Sextet REYKJAVÍK PRIDE Then I Will Rejoice And Cry: 20:00 Harpa 20:00 Harpa Shameless: A Proud Comedy Show Schumann & Schubert Klaki Reykjavík Jazz Festival: hist o! With Kimi Tayler & Jono Du$y 20:00 Harpa 20:00 Gaukurinn 22:30 Harpa 19:00 Tjarnarbíó Coney Island Show Dra! Djók: Lady Bunny, Sherry Vine, Thursday August 12th Friday August 20th 20:00 Gaukurinn Heklina & More! Iceland Country Music Festival 2021: On August 27th, record label Sono 20:00 Gamla Bíó Una Stef & The SP74 Toolraiser 2021 Axel O & Stefanía Svavars Luminus will drop a world premiere ApocalypsticK Pride Dra! Show 20:00 Mál o! Mennin! 17:00 Prikið 20:30 Bæjarbíó recording of Grapevine-favourite (and 20:00 Gaukurinn Tuð & Hælsæri Sykur & Vill former cover star) Anna Þorvaldsdót- Queer Jazz 20:00 Gaukurinn 20:00 Kex Hostel Sunday August 29th tir’s first string quartet. It’ll be played 21:00 Mál o! Mennin! Pub Quiz Volcanova: Radical Waves Release by the three-time Grammy nominated Queer Cruise 20:00 Kex Hostel 19:00 Húrra Björk Orkestral Spektral Quartet, who originally com- 18:30 Eldin! Whale Watchin! A Ma!ical World of Two Pianos 17:00 Harpa missioned the work and performed DJ Þor!erður Jóhanna 20:00 Harpa Saturday August 21st Sin!er/Son!writer Ni!ht it live for the first time at the Kenny 20:00 Kex Hostel 20:00 Gaukurinn Center in 2019. It’s Anna’s first string Friday August 13th Toolraiser 2021 Reykjavík Jazz Festival: Stína Á!ústs- quartet and, as you’d expect from the Saturday August 7th 14:00 R6013 & Prikið dóttir, Henrik Linder, Joel Lyssarides composer, it’s been described as a Inspector Spacetime & DJ Óli Dóri Party Karaoke! & Family Band sonic tapestry that pushes the bound- REYKJAVÍK PRIDE 20:00 Kex Hostel 20:00 Gaukurinn 20:00 Harpa aries of the instruments. Spektral Pride Parade! Dömer o! herra Burlesque Show violinist Doyle Armbrust called it, “dev- 14:00 Reykjavík 20:00 Tjarnarbíó Sunday August 22nd Monday August 30th astatingly personal and profoundly Party Karaoke - Pride Edition! Mikael Máni: Nostal!ia Machine expansive at the same time.” Just what 20:00 Gaukurinn 20:00 Harpa Bokashi Compostin! Workshop Reykjavík Jazz Festival: Hróðmar we need to cheer up. CYBER Valbor! Ólafs 15:00 RVK Tool Library Si!urðsson & Ludvi! Kári Quartet 20:00 Kex Hostel 20:00 Gaukurinn 20:00 Harpa Dra! Brunch Jónas Si! Tuesday August 24th 11:00 Gamla Bíó 20:00 Bæjarbíó Tuesday August 31st Your Silent Radiance - Sei!la Karaoke Party! 12:00 Harpa Saturday August 14th 20:00 Gaukurinn Reykjavík Jazz Festival: Þor !rímur Fi nal Re cit al: Span isches Lieder spiel Jóns son, Rósa Guðrún & Strokk var- - Sei!la Misþyrmin! & Vonlaus Wednesday August 25th tet tinn Si!!i 20:00 Harpa 20:00 Gaukurinn 20:00 Harpa Or!an Summer Creative Mendin! Workshop KisiMjá, El Royalé & Pínulitlar peysur Karaoke Party! 12:00 Hall!rímskirkja 15:00 RVK Tool Library 20:00 Gaukurinn 20:00 Gaukurinn Clownin! Around: Circus Day Mar!skonar Rómantík Monday August 9th 13:30 Fimleikar Fylkir Thursday August 26th 20:00 Harpa Jónas Si! Krullan 20:00 Bæjarbíó Iceland Country Music Festival 2021: Wednesday September 1st 20:00 Mál o! Mennin! Or!an Summer Sycamore Tree Greek conductor and pianist Kornilios 12:00 Hall!rímskirkja 20:30 Bæjarbíó Reykjavík Jazz Festival: Andrea's Michailidis has been named Con- Tuesday August 10th Pub Quiz Bluesmen ductor-in-Residence at the Iceland Sunday August 15th 20:00 Kex Hostel 20:00 Harpa Symphony Orchestra for the upcom- Karaoke Party! Krullan Reykjavík Jazz Festival: Anna Gréta ing season. There are many projects 20:00 Gaukurinn Dun!eons & Dra!ons Ni!ht 20:00 Gaukurinn Trio & Am brose Ak in musire Quar tet on the roster, including an abridged 20:00 Gaukurinn Upcycle Candle Workshop 20:00 Harpa version of Mozart’s Magic Flute, new Wednesday August 11th Kristinn Smári Kristisson & Trio 17:00 RVK Tool Library symphonic music by Högni Egilsson 16:00 Harpa Thursday September 2nd and the Icelandic premiere of Daníel Múlinn Jazz Club: Arctic Swin! Sextet Seed Harvestin! Workshop Friday August 27th Bjarnason’s ‘From Space I Saw Earth’. 20:00 Harpa 15:00 RVK Tool Library Reykjavík Jazz Festival: Broken Cycle According to our research, it’s not Continue Iceland Country Music Festival 2021: Trio & ASTRA about Jeff Bezos. HJC 20:00 Gaukurinn Klaufar 20:00 Harpa i8 Gallery Tryggvagata 16 101 Reykjavík [email protected]

t: +354 551 3666 www.i8.is Art @i8gallery “They are just so full of ideas and energy. And they are so confident."

The teens doing a show inspired by the Pansy Craze of the 1930s

an award-winning rapper and even a trombone player, which Queer Teens! To The Kimi—a former trombone player herself—is particularly obsessed with. “They were practising a Streets! number from Moulin Rouge and RAGNA RÓBERTSDÓTTIR at one point I’m like, trombone solo The shinin!, inspirin! family of Pride’s Queer here?” She laughs. 10 June - 28 August 2021 Street Theatre workshop Words: Hannah Jane Cohen Photos: Art Bicnick A force of nature For Kimi and Sigurður, work- ing with the teens has also made 13.05.–03.10.2021 Street Theatre inspires others just as much as it them re-examine their own queer inspires us.” youths. Sirra Sigrún Sigurðardóttir Check out the Queer Street Theatre From the get-go, the plan was to “Oh, it was completely differ- at @youthpridestreettheatre2021 have daily performances through- ent,” Kimi says quietly, of her own Ásmundur Sveinsson on Instagram and out Pride from the 3rd to the 8th experiences. “I wasn’t out [at their @youthpridestreettheatre on TikTok. to August. That said, Kimi and age]. And the dialogue was so dif- As If to Sigurður couldn’t have anticipat- ferent. I certainly didn’t have a “There is so much self-expression ed just how passionate the group queer group of friends growing here—I feel very free!” Freya, a would be. up because nobody was out. So it’s Demonstrate member of the new teenage Queer “They want to do everything and really lovely to be around young Street Theatre workshop excitedly more,” Kimi says. “Today, I went people who are expressing who an Eclipse gushes. Though it’s just her fourth out for lunch and I came back and they are through their art. And day in the program, the group—all they weren’t there. Then I got a they have such clear voices.” queer and between the ages of 15 message, ‘Kimi, come to Hallgrím- “It’s almost overwhelming at and 17—already seem like a fam- skirkja!’ I go there and they are in times,” Sigurður adds. “You can’t ily. “It’s been great,” Syd, another the street doing dance routines.” help but think, ‘Oh, if I had that member, chimes in. “Everything She beams—an extremely proud or if this was everywhere!’ Just we are doing has a purpose even aunt. think of all the crap you could have if it’s just fooling around. This all “They’ve come up with some skipped by figuring yourself out means something to us,” they say really fun and joyful ideas, but then.” sentimentally. there are also some quieter perfor- “Seeing the relationships they Over Reykjavík Pride, the teens mances. They are really intensely are building together as a group. will take to the streets daily to per- reflecting on their community,” Just watching them dancing as a form. The workshop has quickly Kimi continues. “They want to group outside Hallgrímskirkja. become more than just an outlet have a dance party one day and They were like a little force of na- for choreography or comedy for the something like a memorial the ture,” Kimi concludes. “When they group. It’s a much-needed oasis, a next. It’s amazing to see such dif- are doing that, nothing can touch place where they, as queer youths, ferent reflections.” them. And that makes my heart can find their own tribe—people The group is certainly a multi- warm.” who understand them on a level talented bunch. They’ve got sing- many others won’t. ers, dancers, actors, roller skaters, “I think it’s super fun to have people to just be idiots with. That doesn’t happen enough,” perform- er Þór adds, smiling broadly. “So- cial anxiety? Bye!”

Trombone solo? “They are just so full of ideas and energy. And they are so confident,” project facilitator (and resident ‘Cool Aunt’) Kimi Tayler raves of the group. “Yes, we were definitely not that confident,” Pride Festival Manager Sigurður Starr Guðjóns- Ásmundarsafn Open daily son adds, laughing. “But to be that S i g t ú n i 10 h 0 0 – 17 h 0 0 age and so out, proud and loud. I 1 0 5 Reykjavík artmuseum.is love that we are able to give a plat- +354 411 6430 #reykjavikartmuseum form for that and I hope that it Kimi "The Cool Aunt"Tayler, along with Syd and Þór The Reykjavík Grapevine 21 Our Picks Issue 08— 2021

the legendary art- vibrant artificial ist’s kaleidoscop- hair to create ic works gracing alien worlds that’ll the walls of the make you feel most established you’re entering art galleries, this a new dimen- time, she’s taken sion—one where it to the remote the walls crawl island of Hrútey with dizzying in Blönduós in cotton candy Hulda Vilhjálmsdóttir Voya!e Iðavöllur Northern Iceland. and sickly sweet Set in the natural skies. We’d like Aug. 14th-Sept. and new. She’s Until Aug. 28th something we’ve Until Oct. 17th - their own meeting cacophony of the her to redecorate 4th - Þula one of the most - Y Gallery all become ex- Hafnarhús place, where a small island, the the Grapevine prolific artists in tremely acquaint- massive group of artificial nature o&ce and plan If Þula is putting the country—with Your favourite ed with during The title ‘Iðavöllur’ artists show their of her large-scale on crowdfunding it up, you know close to 50 solo gas-station-cum- the last year and a refers to the loca- work reflecting on Intruder hair-stallation our e(orts at the it’s good. This ex- exhibitions and 40 gallery is here with half. HJC tion in the Völuspá the new millen- is put in stark nearest opportu- hibition features group exhibitions a new exhibition, where gods meet nium. Unsure if Until Au!ust 28th - Blanda in Blönduós context. For those nity. Pls donate. Hulda Vilhjálms- on her record. this one by Þór Sig- to reassemble the Baldr will be in unacquainted No, seriously. HJC dóttir in an explo- We love a hard urþórsson. Þór’s world following attendance. HJC Shopli%er. Need While you might with Shopli%er’s ration of nature worker. HJC work explores the Ragnarök. Here, we say more? be used to seeing style, she uses and abstract, old passage of time; Hafnarhús makes

August 6th-September 2nd

artist transform ordinary materials used abstraction to express sudden tion of “things”). Anti-consumerists into the extraordinary right in front cultural, social and political shi%s rejoice. Art Listin!s of your eyes. in Iceland, so his pieces are the • Runs until August 26th, 2021 • Runs until September 19th, 2021 perfect thing to stare at and reflect on our own relatively abstract times. NATIONAL MUSEUM OF ICELAND Events are listed by venue. For complete REYKJAVÍK ART MUSEUM ) But don't worry: it's an upli%ing and Kristján Magnússon listin!s and detailed information on venues, KJARVALSSTAÐIR colourful exhibition, so no need to Backyards, sheds, clothes-lines and, Eternal Recurrence bring the tissues. now and then, a cat. Photographer visit !rapevine.is/happenin!. Jóhannes S. Kjarval—a%er whom • Runs until August 31st, 2021 Kristján Magnússon trains his lens Send your listin!s to: listin!s@!rapevine.is the museum is named—is put in exclusively on a narrow, enclosed dialogue with a number of promi- NORDIC HOUSE swath of the urban environment: the nent contemporary Iceland artists Rockscramblers back-lots of residential areas in the Opening 300 artworks including a beautiful including Ólafur Elíasson, Ragnar Rockscramblers is inspired by the older parts of Reykjavik. garden with 26 bronze casts of the Kjartansson, Steina and Eggert illustrated poetry of poet Mats • Runs until August 29th, 2021 GALLERY PORT artist’s sculptures. Pétursson. Now that's a lineup. Söderlund and illustrator Kathrina Spessi 1990-2020 Guðlaug Mía & Jóhanna Kristbjörg • Runs until September 19th, 2021 Skarðsá. On view are the illustrations Spessi, a.k.a. Sigurþór Hallbjörnsson, Guðlaug Mía and Jóhanna Kristbjörg REYKJAVÍK CITY MUSEUM and poetry in their original forms has forged a unique style within the come together for this upcoming Settlement Exhibition HAFNARBORG and one can also interact with a field of fine-art photography. His exhibition. There's scant information As Viking ruins meet digital technol- Discotheque mysterious recording of Söderlund work presents cold hard reality, un- on it right now, but knowing Gallery ogy, this exhibition provides insight Arnfinnur Amazeen‘s exhibition pres- himself, a cave where young visitors varnished and uncensored. Hidden Port and the duo, it'll be special. into Reykjavík's farms at the time of ents new works that draw inspira- can have a cozy time and (!!!) a new pockets of society are prominent in • Opens on August 7th, 2021 the first settlers. tion from the ambiguous imagery of climbing wall. his work, interspersed with cultural • Runs until August 19th, 2021 Icelandic night club culture in the • Runs until September 5th, 2021 life. His choice and handling of ma- Ongoing REYKJAVÍK MUSEUM OF PHOTOGRAPHY seventies and eighties. While the ti- terial is provocative, yet also imbued The Silent But Noble Art tle is a reference to revelry, what we REYKJAVÍK ART MUSEUM ) HAFNARHÚS with humanity and humour. NATIONAL GALLERY OF ICELAND Sigurhans Vignir (1894-1975) le% have here is nonetheless a rather Iðavöllur: Icelandic Art in the 21st • Runs until August 22nd, 2021 Of The North the museum an archive of around dreary discotheque. There is no glitz Century 'Of the North' (2001) is created from 40,000 photographs. Many of these and glamour to be found here, only In 2021, Reykjavík Art Museum HARBINGER Steina Vasulka’s archive of video document everyday Icelandic the subtle indication of something focuses on the microenvironment, Earth Abides recordings, mostly of Icelandic society just a%er the creation of the that has already happened. with an aim of displaying the growth Guðrún Tára Sveinsdóttir is all about nature—either the surface or Republic of Iceland in 1944—a chris- • Runs until August 15th, 2021 of the Icelandic art scene. The whole the inner world. Combining words, microscopic views: microbes, as tening, labourers at work, people Cadence Hafnarhús becomes the setting video and music in her works, she well as crashing waves and melting skating, the occupation of Iceland Guðmunda Andrésdóttir is one of for a powerful exhibition of new gives access to one's own mind and ice, landslips and an array of natural during World War II by British troops, Iceland's most inflouential abstract works by young artists who may deepest emotions. Here, she uses phenomena relating to the forma- a beauty pageant, a birthday party, a painters. Beginning in the 1950s, she be considered to be in the lead for everything from knitting needles to tion and destruction of our planet. wigmaker… and so on. was part of the Icelandic geometric their generation, and assumptions silk dresses to show the challenges • Runs until January 9th, 2022 • Runs until September 19th, 2021 abrastion movement—and notably can also be made about the larger of daily life in the loveliest way. HELLO UNIVERSE one of the only woman. She's known context of Icelandic and interna- • Runs until August 21st, 2021 It's 2021 and we're over Earth. Enter REYKJAVÍK MARITIME MUSEUM for intriguing contraditions that tional contemporary art. Finnur Jónsson. The avant-garde art Fish & Folk explore the di(erence between the • Runs until October 17th, 2021 GERÐUBERG of Finnur—the first Icelandic artist Name a better duo than fish and sensitive and the calculated, the Non-stop Vibrating to address outer space in his works, Iceland. You can’t. So come learn emotional and the rational. Come GERÐARSAFN KÓPAVOGUR ART MUSEUM You might have heard about the van- in the first half of the 20th cen- about the history of Icelandic fisher- give her the respect she deserves. Object of Desire dalism of Sigga Björg Sigurðardót- tury—presents the artist's unfet- ies from row boats to monstrous • Runs until August 22nd, 2021 A collaboration between Singapore tir's work in her newest exhibition. tered interpretation of the marvels trawlers. and Iceland, ‘Object of Desire’ will Now, a%er a short break, it's back. of the celestial bodies, which are Melckmeyt 1659 REYKJAVÍK ART MUSEUM ) travel between both countries with "It's not what you look at that mat- the theme of this exhibition. Always Melckmeyt was a Dutch merchant ÁSMUNDARSAFN an exploration of “things”( i.e. the ters, it's what you see." - Thoreau remember: We are but matter expe- ship that crashed near Flatey Island Sirra Sigrún Sigurðardóttir & desire, distribution, and reproduc- • Runs until August 13th, 2021 riencing itself on a pale blue dot. in 1659. Explore the wreck here. Ásmundur Sveinsson: As If To Demon- • Runs until January 9th, 2022 with two images of di(erent origins strate An Eclipse Death Is Elsewhere against each other. Sirra’s work is cosmic in nature, MUSEUM OF DESIGN GARÐATORG 1 Ragnar Kjartansson’s opus “Death is o%en connected to speculation AND APPLIED ART 210 GARÐABÆR Elsewhere” made its debut in 2019 MUSEUM OF DESIGN AND APPLIED ART about our position within the inner EXHIBITIONS at the Metropolitan Museum of Art Kristín Þorkelsdóttir workings of nature, physics and in New York City. Now, it’s back in You've probably seen Kristín Þorkels- the forces that drive the world. Her KRISTÍN ÞORKELSDÓTTIR the artists hometown for a sum- dóttir's work before though you works o%en display our position as mer long residency at the National might not know it. She's designed individuals, our significance and UNTIL 30.12. Gallery. Featuring ya fav musician the packaging of countless foods insignificance. As an existentialist

twins GYÐA, Kristín Anna, and (ran- as well as Icelandic banknotes and paper, who ruminated on our own BEHIND THE SCENES domly) those two brothers from other famous items. Come see her obscurity, we can't agree more. the National, the seven-channel progression as an artist. • Runs until October 3rd, 2021 NATURAL DYES: A video installation sees a single song • Runs until January 30th, 2022 Design for Sculptor Ásmundur played without end in a continuous Behind the Scenes — Natural Dyes: Sveinsson MODERN PERSPECTIVE loop. Filmed around the summer sol- A Modern Perspective Five product designers take over stice in southern Iceland, “Death Is Where do textile colours come the museum shop at Ásmundarsafn Elsewhere” is a referential work that from? Nowadays many are chemi- with objects inspired by Ásmundur UNTIL 12.09. turns romantic clichés on their head cal, but this project shows the wide Sveinsson's world and heritage. with irony, nihilism and absurdity to range of colours one can produce • Runs until October 3rd, 2021 RESIDENCY spare nautrally in Iceland. • Runs until September 19th, 2021 • Runs until September 12th, 2021 HIÐ ÍSLENSKA BÓKMENNTAFÉLAG SVEINBJÖRN GUNNARSSON Miniatures Abstract Reality EINAR JÓNSSON MUSEUM Modelmaker Sveinbjörn Gunnarsson The ground floor of the Hotel Saga MODEL MAKER UNTIL 19.09. Permanent Exhibition takes up residence at the Design will play host to a series of abstract OPEN TUE–SUN 12–17 The museum contains close to Museum. Come watch the exemplary art works by Valtýr Pétursson. He WWW.HONNUNARSAFN.IS Instagram Facebook honnunarsafn Film

When they put the wrong toppings on your pylsur...

seriously. We really worked on giv- A Super-Cop ing the movie soul.” Movie/football balance THE HOME Solvin! Crimes The idea for ‘Leynilögga’ arose ten years ago, when Hannes took part ‘Leynilö!!a’ brin!s action and comedy to the in the popular Icelandic comedy Icelandic film scene show “Auddi & Sveppi”. Just for fun, OF ICELANDIC Sveppi and Hannes created a rough Words: Alina Maurer Photo: Stills from ‘Leynilögga’ trailer for ‘Leynilögga’ and the idea was stuck. SEAFOOD “We had been talking about it “I think it’s a comedy made by but they're not always fun,” Hannes for years after the trailer came people who want to be making describes. “The core concept was to out. In fact, we were contacted by AND LAMB an action movie,” Hannes Þór make an action movie placed in the movie companies in Iceland, so we Halldórsson laughs, referring to small city of Reykjavík. None of the wrote the first draft back in 2012. his upcoming directorial debut things happening make sense […] But then I became a professional APOTEK Kitchen+Bar is a casual-smart ‘Leynilögga’. His name probably but because we're making a com- football player and was abroad for rings a bell—but from a totally edy, we can allow ourselves every- six years and the project just fell restaurant located in one of Reykjavíks different sector. A professional thing.” to the side,” Hannes says. Even- most historical buildings. footballer and goalkeeper of the The movie—which Hannes tually, the production company Icelandic national team, Hannes is co-wrote with Nína Petersen and Pegasus contacted the duo and the We specialize in fresh seafood unarguably most famous for saving Sverrir ‘Sveppi’ Þór Sverrisson—is first seeds for success were sown. and local ingredients a penalty kick from Lionel Messi in a romp through the lens of a cop. Now, ‘Leynilögga’ will premiere at the World Cup in 2018. However, “The cop’s name is Bússi and he the Locarno Film Festival, while prepared with a modern twist. defending the goalposts is not his is the number one badass cop in screening in Icelandic movie the- only passion—he has long been in Reykjavík. But then there’s another atres at the end of August. the filmmaking industry, direct- guy, the best cop in Garðabær, and ing numerous advertisements and they're rivals. The two towns don’t music videos. Now, he’s finally here like each other,” Hannes explains. This was a fun movie with a full-length feature. “Then the two cops have to deal Above all else, Hannes hopes this APOTEK KITCHEN+BAR Austurstræti 16 101 Reykjavík apotek.is with a mysterious series of bank film will bring some laughter and robberies, where nothing seems to joy in these difficult times. “I Jack-of-all-trades be stolen. So they must partner up think people are thirsty for some “I’ve been working as a filmmaker and there's a lot of tension between fun movie entertainment, so this for 15 years. But now I’ve made my them.” is a fantastic time to come out with first feature film—which was al- Of course, there’s a twist—no Leynilögga,” he muses. ways my goal—and earlier than I spoilers here—that Hannes prom- “I just want people to say, ‘This expected,” he says. ‘Leynilögga’, ises will surprise viewers. All we was a fun movie.’ That's my num- he explains, is a comedy-action- can say is that the aforementioned ber one goal,” he concludes, pulling drama, which is quite atypical for macho-cop Bússi is dealing with down his sunglasses and smiling. Icelandic filmmaking. some personal issues. “He needs “But if it leaves something behind ”Icelandic films often have this to get over his own prejudice,” and raises some questions, that’s a tendency to be quite slow and de- Hannes elucidates. “There is a jour- nice bonus.” pressing. Many of them are good–– ney and we are taking the subject

A scene you see o'en on the streets of Reykjavík The Reykjavík Grapevine 23 Issue 08— 2021

An idyllic moment for the group

ers that are new.” The group’s sound is, as they emphasise, ever-changing, so much so that they even regard their debut release ‘nefrennsli / kros- Definition Please? saflens’ as more of a time-capsule of their Backwards or forwards, Ólafur Kram has a sound all their own sound at that particular time. In fact, they play most of those songs completely differ- Words: Hannah Jane Cohen Photos: Art Bicnick ently nowadays. “Once we tried to write a waltz for couples to dance too, but then it wasn’t a waltz, it was Music dic words for toaster, the group explains. is an anomaly. From one song to another, a screaming song,” Guðný says, laughing. “The word for toaster is very debated in the they seamlessly journey from punk to jazz “For us, in everything we do, we go in Check out Ólafur Kram on all streaming Icelandic community,” Birgitta reiterates. to rock to even things like bossanova and every direction we want,” she concludes. platforms and catch them live at Toolraiser. “Some people say brauðrist while others say disco. You just can’t define them—forwards ristavél.” or backwards. The winners of this year’s Músíktilraunir, “Brauðrist is more proper,” Guðný asserts, “We always put our own flair on every- Ólafur Kram quickly became a local favourite smiling. “It’s more educated.” This then thing, which I think is this chaotic feeling,” “We always put in the Reykjavík scene. Serving up a cacoph- prompts a lively discussion on when and Eydís muses. The others agree, describing ony of genres, the band—which consists of where it’s acceptable to use either term—a their music as “educated punk”. our own flair on trumpeter and singer Birgitta Björg Guð- very Ólafur Kram moment. “We’re the result of coming from very everything, which marsdóttir, guitarist and singer Eydís Egils- different musical backgrounds. Like Iðunn I think is this cha- dóttir Kvaran, bassist and singer Guðný Mar- Knup detacude has a lot of jazz in her musical background grét Eyjólfs, keyboardist and singer Iðunn while I just listened to Taylor Swift,” Guðný otic feeling.” Gígja Kristjánsdóttir, and drummer Sævar And just like their multifaceted explora- laughs. “We have people that are very skilled Andri Sigurðarson—has made a brand of tion of language, musically, Ólafur Kram and educated in their instruments and oth- punk all their own.

Yalpdrow Ólafur Kram was originally called Gaia, but the group went back to the drawing board after many Icelanders had trouble pronounc- ing it. They spitballed other potential band names, but nothing felt right. Then, at the unlikeliest of times, inspiration struck—or rather, noitaripsni did. “On Christmas night, I had an epiphany. It was like a lightning bolt from the sky that ‘Mark Ruffalo’ backwards is ‘Ólafur Kram,’” Birgitta laughs, causing the rest of the group to break into giggles. “I think it’s an appropriate name in that our lyrics and the words we pick are very decisive and particular,” Eydís says. “There are many words hidden in our lyrics, so it’s appropriate that our band name is wordplay.” The group cites songs that, when put in an acrostic poem, spell out the names of band members. They also often modu- late rhyming words to create new imagery. “We’re playful in the way that, for example, sjó and snjór—the Icelandic words for sea and snow—sound very similar. So in one song, we say, ‘he’s throwing a seaball’ instead of a snowball and that they’re ‘swimming in the snow,’’' Guðný explains. Guðný also has some very powerful lyrical commentary on the hierarchy of the Icelan- Another idyllic moment for the group, complete with a dog-friend The Reykjavík Grapevine 24 Track By Track Issue 08— 2021

ICELANDIC SEAFOOD makes world’s best sushi

The latest strain of Mannveira

anyone was having too good of a time in the first half. It‘s also a ‘Vítahrin!ur’ By constant reminder of how long it took to get this fucking album Mannveira done. “Vítahringur” is also more or Once you start, there’s no turnin! back less the idealistic hub of the entire album—it’s all about finding sol- Words: Erik Pomrenke & Mannveira Photos: Elvar Ö. Egilsson ace in misery and the rude awak- ening when you realize there is no Album Ópin rjúfa þögnina turning back. It also has a guitar solo, which Pick up Mannveira’s ‘Vítahringur’ Originally this song was just a riff is fun? at record shops around Reykjavík that we jammed on during sound- or online at darkdescentrecords. checks and used to fill our times- Framtíðin myrt bandcamp.com. You can also listen lot, but we all felt that it deserved to it on all streaming platforms. to be worked on a bit. And after a Akin to the idea of no turning solid 45 minutes or so of collective back, “Framtíðin myrt” is an ab- At the origin of every genre lies a raw stankface and thumbs-upping, stract ode to ensuring there is energy that defies rules and norms, we had a song. It‘s just the kind no going back, as well as ruining but inevitably, even the most extreme of dirty, sinister mid-tempo ball the path ahead. The years that it become restrained by convention. slapper that we all like, so it made took to get this album out into the Mannveira’s latest release—surpris- perfect sense as an opener to the world squeezed some of the post- The best of Icelandic produce ingly their debut, although the the album. teen angst and fury out of us, but with a nod to Japan and South band has been around for 10 years— not all of it, so this song was sort rediscovers the purely manic misan- Í köldum faðmi of inevitable. Possibly the least America. Modern Icelandic thropy at the heart of black metal dissonant track of the album with with some new influences, including Setting the tone for the rest of the probably the most nihilistic ideas flavours, share plates and award some truly fucked up death indus- album, “Í köldum faðmi” is about behind it. Then again, not a lot of trial ritual cult shit in the intro and embracing self-destruction, i.e. positivity throughout the album. winning cocktails. a generally more consonant and affir- willingly digging your own grave. mative tone throughout. So if you’re The song itself flows surprisingly Kverkatak eilífra martraða looking for a soundtrack for tearing well considering how many differ- someone’s head off, here you go. We ent ideas were thrown at it. It also Very much the conclusion of the sat down with the group to talk about wasn‘t supposed to be the longest whole album, “Kverkatak eilífra SOCIALIZE the album track by track. track of the album, but c‘est la vie. martraða” is just an ugly, hateful The intro (as well as the rest of pit of riffs and misery that dis- WITH THE the ambient breaks on the album) solves into nothing toward the were done in collaboration with end. Very much a fitting end to LOCALS D.G., who was a tremendous help “Vítahringur” as a whole. in creating this album.

Vítahringur "‘Vítahringur’ is a “Vítahringur” was the first song we started slow moving, heavy writing on the album way back in 2015. It‘s mood-ruiner in case a slow moving, heavy anyone was having mood-ruiner in case too good of a time in the first half.”

Our kitchen is open 17.00–23.00 sun.–thu. 17.00–24.00 fri.–sat.

Sushi Social Þingholtsstræti 5 • 101 Reykjavík Tel. 568 6600 • sushisocial.is Btw, they had nothing to do with the Delta varient (or so they claim) The Reykjavík Grapevine 25 Issue 08— 2021

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to both Iceland and Dr. Crawford’s channel is the Icelandic family sagas, a literary genre that is half history, half artistic invention. For many people, this medieval litera- ture can seem inaccessible, and Dr. Crawford has made it his mission to open this world to those who wouldn’t otherwise be able to ac- cess it. “One tip that I would give is don't be afraid to reread. You know, these stories were made by and for a culture where people's family ties were clearly very prominent in everyone's mind; you could keep track of these genealogies really easily. A saga will mention some- one as an eighth cousin in Chap- ter 1, and when that person comes up again in Chapter 44, you're just supposed to remember this. There's no guardian angel of sa- gas who's hovering over you while you read it, but sometimes we have weird pride when reading, like I Old Norse, New can't go back and check this.”

Not a Viking, not a Audience cowboy Finally, one must ask—what’s with Dr. Jackson Crawford’s Curious Path From the hat? Academia to YouTube “I wanted people to see that you don't have to decide to be a Viking Words: Erik Pomrenke Photo: Provided by Dr. Jackson Crawford to be interested in this stuff. I'm Jackson, wishing you all the best from the Rocky Mountains of Wyoming really just being myself.”

Up in the Rocky Mountains of Wyo- about their names. However, Latin Interestingly, the do and tun constructions analogous to “walk- Dr. Crawford received his PhD in ming, a pickup truck pulls over and quickly proved to be a gateway to words may be responsible for did,” which eventually shortened Old Norse and Historical Linguis- out steps a pair of cowboy boots. a broader interest in languages the past-tense of regular verbs to “walked” with time. tics at the University of Wisconsin A man saunters toward the cam- and their origins. “From studying throughout the Germanic lan- and taught at UCLA, UC Berkeley era and, tipping his brimmed hat, Latin, I realized that languages guages, as one of the leading the- and University of Colorado. You can begins to lecture about historical evolved,” he recalls. “And because ories why Germanic languages Picking up the sagas check him out at youtube.com/jack- language change and umlaut mu- I could see that Spanish was a lat- end their past tense verbs with -d Of course, Dr. Crawford doesn’t soncrawford. tation. er continuation of the same lan- and -t is that these early Proto- just teach about language. One Far from a graduate school-fu- guage, I thought, well, what did Germanic speakers may have had subject that most attracts people elled Lynchian fever dream, this is English come from?” the work of Dr. Jackson Crawford, These early questions led him to a man who has quietly become a delve deeper and, like many a bud- minor internet celebrity by teach- ding scholar, Dr. Crawford fondly ing Old Norse on YouTube. Inciden- remembers digging through piles tally, he also wears a cowboy hat. of books in his younger years. “There was this huge bookstore in Denver called Tattered Cover From academia to and my grandma took me down YouTube there,” he says. “One day, I'm just “There just wasn't a lot of good picking through stacks of used accessible information about it,” books and I found a grammar of ICELANDIC GASTROPUB Jackson explains. While he was Old English. And because I had teaching at the University of Cali- enough grammar from Latin to fornia Berkeley, Dr. Crawford had a understand the grammar, I de- revelation: although he was teach- cided that language evolution was ing one of the most popular under- just the most fascinating thing in graduate offerings, there was very the world.” HAPPIEST little reliable information about it From there, he taught himself online. Also, like many graduate Old Norse in college and a lifelong HAPPY HOUR students, he was broke. love of words and the rules that “It's like what they say about res- govern them was born. IN REYKJAVÍK taurants, you can get it cheap and fast, but it won't be good. You can get it fast and good, but it won't Family resemblance be cheap,” he explains. “And then “Something I always think about is the information that was easy to þú ert,” he says. “Because it looks so get was often these gurus online alien on the surface. You learn how shouting at you about how Thor to say ég er, þú ert, and don't nec- wants you to get buff. So I thought, essarily realize that it’s English: well, there's a niche here for some- thou art. These languages are so one who knows this stuff well, and closely related that they have the isn’t so personally wrapped up in exact same irregularities in the be some narrative about it.” verb. To me, that's just such a tell- He began uploading short vid- ing piece of deep connection.” eos to YouTube on topics like Old One of Dr. Crawford’s favorite Norse grammar, pronunciation etymological coincidences con- and misconceptions surrounding cerns the English words do and Norse mythology. He quickly de- gear. veloped an audience, becoming one The English verb, do, and Ger- of the most popular online sources man tun, surface quite consis- for mythology, language and his- tently throughout the Germanic tory. languages, but this root is conspic- uously absent from Scandinavia, which instead use derivations of A budding interest gera. Through history, this verb Dr. Crawford’s intellectual pur- did eventually find a place in Eng- suits began, like many children, lish, although as Dr. Crawford de- with dinosaurs. scribes it, it is a neglected corner When his middle school of- of our language, the word gear. So 790 1.490 fered Latin class, he jumped at when we gear up and get ready, we the chance to learn, he thought, are quite simply “doing.” SÆTA SVÍNIÐ / Hafnarstræti 1-3 / Tel. 555 2900 / saetasvinid.is The Reykjavík Grapevine 27 Lifestyle Issue 08— 2021

FANCIES is where we talk to Reykjavík's most fashion-forward figures about style

Words: Hannah Jane Cohen Photo: Art Bicnick Fjallkonan is a new lively restaurant & pub in the heart of Reykjavík offering a selection of Icelandic and international dishes from local ingredients. Casual and cosy atmosphere yet still fun and festive. Oddný Svava Stop by for snacks & drinks, lunch or dinner. Icelandic Steinarsdóttir Delicacies

Oddný Svava Steinarsdóttir (24) is a graphic designer, kindergarten teacher and drag queen Lola Von Heart.

Wearing: • Jacket from Gallerí Sautján • Some old shirt and cardigan • H&M Men pants • Rakel Tómasdóttir scarf • Random jewelry • Doc Martens—they're old, with- ered, torn and loved

Describe your style in 5 words: First off, sizeless. We all know clothing sizes are a myth! The number on your clothing is not the number for your body, it’s just the number for sizing the actual fabric, so even though I might be size whatever, I’m still going to probably have clothes that are every size between, up and down. I don’t buy clothes for the size, I buy them for how they look, so a big part of how I dress is wearing oversized things like that. Next up, unisex and neutral. I love browns, blacks, greys and whites. Old—both in how they look and also just old. I also mix patterns like no- body’s business. Must try dishes Favourite stores in Reykjavík: LAMB & FLATBREAD Definitely Extraloppan. I really love Slow cooked lamb, traditional Icelandic flatbread from the old clothing that people don’t want Westfjords, carrot purée, pickled red onions, horseradish sauce to use anymore and either they fit me perfectly or I get to modify and ARCTIC CHARR & BLINI Lighly cured arctic charr, chickpea blini, horseradish sauce, change them. Otherwise I really love roe, crispy lentils, yuzu-elderflower dressing H&M Men. The best pants that ever fit me are at H&M Men. ICELANDIC PLATTER I also love Fatamarkaðurinn and > Puffin, crowberry gel > Minke whale, malt glaze Gyllti kötturinn. > Lamb tartar, chive mayo

Favourite piece: THE LAMB BURGER Bacon, mushroom & date duxelle, pickled red onions, pickled These pants are my favourite pants cucumber, rucola, smoked cheese, fries for sure, but this is just basically my favourite outfit. That said, I SKYR ETON MESS CHEESECAKE think my favourite things are knit White chocolate “Skyr” mousse, meringue, raspberries, raspberry sauce sweaters. I’m always cold, for one, so they keep me warm, but they look good with a dress, pants or whatever.

Something I would never wear: Cheetah print. Happy Hour 15-17 every day Lusting after: A nice faux leather chest harness. Also, low Doc Martens. FJALLKONAN WELCOMES YOU!

fjallkonan.rvk fjallkonan Hafnarstræti 1–3 > Tel. +354 555 0950 > fjallkona.is Food NATIONAL MUSEUM OF ICELAND That Time The WELCOME Grapevine Ate TO THE NATIONAL Everythin! MUSEUM OF ICELAND At Bor!29

Or, how the Editorial Staff was uncomfortably full for days... Words: The Grapevine Professional Eating League Photos: Art Bicnick

What does Reykjavík love more than Taqueria. Created after owner Ein- building hotels? Food courts, of course! ar Örn Einarsson went on a taco- It was with tempered stomachs that we fueld journey through Miami, the approached the latest gastro-court in selling point for this place is their The National Museum of Iceland Reykjavik, Borg29 Mathöll. How soon fresh tortillas, which use corn di- Suðurgata 41, 101 Reykjavík it all melted away as we sampled dish rectly imported from Mexico—in Opening Hours www.nationalmuseum.is after dish that was, without exception, fact, it’s the same one that wowed Daily 10–17 +354 530 2200 excellent. Every offering has an idea Einar in Miami. You won’t find any- Closed on @icelandnationalmuseum behind it and an energy of playful com- thing, and we mean anything, like it Mondays 16/9–30/4 @thjodminjasafn petition runs throughout the place. in Iceland. The fish tacos are a must, Chefs check out what everyone else but seriously, they could serve us is doing, keeping the standards high, anything on those tortillas and we’d while the open layout keeps everything be pleased. In fact, if La Masa could beautifully on display. The view isn’t drop off some tortillas at the Grape- bad either. vine office, we wouldn’t complain. Bál Vín og Grill

Award-winning chef Hafsteinn Ólafsson is not resting on his laurels with his latest project, Bál Vín og Grill. Bál, meaning fire, features a variety of grill classics like skewers, steaks, and fish. But where Hafste- inn’s eye for presentation and at- tention to detail truly shine are the small dishes and appetizers; these are dishes clearly made by someone with passion, taste, and a sense of play. The dishes are perfectly cu- rated, with modern classics like par- ma-wrapped dates and more adven- Yuzu turous offerings for the discerning foodie, like chicken pâté and beef Wok On You ever try something and imme- tartare. I admit, before my time at diately think, “Yeah, this is going to Bál, I had never sampled a tartare. It’s Wok On, baby. We all know you’ve be a problem for me.” Well just take But with a creamy horseradish and been in that situation where all one bite of a Yuzu burger and you’ll delightful flatbread, this may now you want is noodles. In fact, we’re be worried for your wallet, as this be a new addiction. stressed about making this issue place is something you’ll crave on right now, so we’d like to gorge the daily. The gastro-burger joint ourselves on some noodles. But as already made its mark on the dining longtime Wok On eaters, we swear scene with its Hverfisgata location, they are the best place to cure every- but now they’ve got a smaller locale thing from unquenchable hunger at the food hall, with a selection of (their portion size tho) to the worst crowd favourites. So what’s our ob- hangover to a hankering for cre- session? No doubt the Stóri Yuzu. It’s ativity, as you can put anything you a Big Mac tribute burger in honour want on your noodles. But for us, of the travel restrictions, which has it’s all about the Kóngurinn—egg prevented many from getting the noodles with chicken, beef, broccoli real thing. Eating one is somewhat and much more—as the dish that of a spiritual experience, as it man- never fails to delight and never gets ages to quench that primal urge for old. That said, when half our office good ole’ fast food, while also being was on Keto (yes, that actually hap- distinctly high-end. Of course, the pened), the Keto special was many Laugavegi 28 Chili burger is another favourite. times savoured for its zucchini Basically everything here is amaz- La Masa Taqueria noodle carb-like wonder. Rock on. 537 99 00 ing. [email protected] The taco has a storied history in Ice- sumac.is land. In fact, you could probably do a dissertation on that topic alone. But whatever chapter you’ve stopped writing at, add another for La Masa The Reykjavík Grapevine 29 Food Food Issue 08— 2021 That Time The Grapevine Ate RÖNTGEN Everythin!

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PASTA! TACOS! NOODLES! SUSHI! BURGERS! HEALTHY JUICES!

The crust is fired to perfection in a real oven (with flames and all) and the toppings are without exception high-quality and well-paired. Try the parma ham loaded with greens for something light and fresh, or the pizza Natale for gooey, meaty indulgence.

Happy hour / 4–7pm Beer / Wine / Cocktails

Svala Reykjavík Hipstur

You’re torn: on the one hand, you Hipstur, as you might imagine, could grab a delicious burger; on serves up stylish, international the other hand, you could make the dishes. The offerings, however, are “healthy” choice. Luckily, Svala has not simply fusion-for-the-sake-of- solved this dilemma. The smoothie fusion, but intelligent twists on tra- bowls are filled to the brim with dition. The bacalao, for instance, is things like succulent nuts, granola, a traditional Iberian dish with roots fruits, and chia seeds—we particu- firmly in Iceland. With a side of fo- larly loved the Prince Charming— caccia (made in-house, of course) Pronto Pasta meaning you get to feel full and bet- and the overall quality, it represents ter than your fellow lunch patrons a great value. Also on offer are vegan Reykjavík has been in dire need of without sacrificing taste. And then dishes with wide appeal, including a a proper pasta place for years so there’s the drinks. Everything from delicious open-faced sandwich piled you can just imagine the excite- the green smoothie to the Boom high with a forest floor’s worth of ment when Pronto Pasta arrived. A beet juice (a must-order) felt like a mushrooms, horseradish, onions, full-on fresh-pasta-cooked-right- want, not a should. apples and other goodies. in-front-of-you, it’s got that local Italian charm that has been sorely lacking in the Reykjavík food scene. While you can’t go wrong with a Bo- lognese, here’s the secret: Get the mushroom pasta, with lovely cream sauce, and put some shrimp on it. This dish was recommended not only by the chef of Pronto, but the owners of Borg29 (and Wok On) and Yuzu, along with other local food- ies we talked with after. Seriously, conversations after we mentioned we stopped by Borg29 included, “Did you get that shrimp mushroom pas- Umami Sushi Bar ta?” Yes, we did.

THE Oh yeah, there’s sushi too. Named Check out Borg29 at Borgartún 29. REYKJAVÍK GRAPEVINE after that elusive fifth basic taste, F REYK T O J AV ES Í this restaurant is the place to or- Natalía Pizza B K der the 10 piece Chef’s Special. Take away your own choice and let the God bless Iceland, but they don’t ex- professionals decide what is the actly know how to make a pizza. The freshest and most delicious of the Domino’s here has a pizza with dates

day—they know what they’re doing. and cream cheese on it, for Christ’s B ES AR T B That said, you must complement sake. But Natalía pizza goes back to NEWCOMER that with their miso and garlic laced the source, circumventing Scan- edamame and tuna tartare. dinavian misconceptions of what this flatbread means to the world. “Apart from some grazing sheep leaving their trails Travel around the site, not a single human soul is in sight, em- phasizing the lonesome wilds we are in the midst of.”

Findin! Paradise

The hidden Hi!hlands of the Reykjanes Peninsula

Words: Brittnee Kiner & Alina Maurer Photos: Art Bicnick

As if the Icelandic landscapes al- vehicle you’re traveling in is a 4x4 with coloring of the ridges surrounding the an oval hyaloclastite mount named ready famous on social media weren’t high clearance because the rocks show landmark stands in stark contrast to Lambafell, literally meaning “lamb’s enough, Mother Nature added a no mercy. the typical green grasses and deso- mountain.” Luckily, the gorge offered freshly blazing volcano to the roster But with palms sweating and tires late lava fields lying beyond the site. us some refuge from the typically Ice- of awe-inspiring scenery. However, crawling, we eventually made it to But apart from some grazing sheep landic weather (“skítaveður”). the recent eruption in Geldingadalur the end of the path. While there were leaving their trails around the area, Weirdly enough, the opening to Travel distance isn’t the only reason to visit the Reyk- previous (unsuccessful) attempts to not a single human soul lied in sight, Lambafellsgjá is at ground level—the from Reykjavík: janes Peninsula. If you can’t manage a harness the area’s geothermal ener- emphasising just how lonesome and same as the rest of the endless lava 37 km multi-day venture into the Highlands gy, there’s now a gravel lot at the end remote are the wilds we stood in the fields shaping the scenery. But once during your drive around the country, of the road, Vígdísarvellir, featuring midst of. in the canyon, the pure height of the we have a hidden gem for you only 30 the abandoned drilling area. If you’ve lava rock walls dwarfs you into breath- minutes away from Reykjavík. made it this far, give some kudos to Putting the ice in Iceland lessness. Approximately 20 metres of that Duster that everyone picks on— rock stood beside us, framing a nar- A little Landmannalaugar no one said it would be easy. Iceland hasn’t always been as warm row path through the hazy gorge. Gen- and cozy as it is today—it actually tle mist falling down on us made the The Reykjanes Nature Reserve—part Winding through the used to be cold, believe it or not. Or whole place even more mystical. of the UNESCO Global Geopark—is valley well, it used to be cold-er. While essentially showering inside home to Sogin, an area that resembles The last ice age began around 2.6 the basaltic canyon, we explored the a mini Landmannalaugar, one of the Stepping out of the car, the bright million years ago, ending just 10,000 unique formations of its walls. The highlights of the Highlands. Nearby, green scenery astonished us with years ago. During that time, much of sides of the canyon are dotted with there’s also Lambfellsgjá, an aston- sharp mountain tops. Compared to the island was covered in an ice sheet, basaltic pillows—basically blobs of ishing lava canyon in the midst of the other Icelandic landscapes though, but there were a lot of eruptions going lava that cooled underwater during peninsula’s seemingly endless lava it was nothing unusual—or so we boom beneath the vast glaciers. The an eruption. The shadows and sheer fields. Both mystical treasures prom- thought. We set off and after hiking diverse hues of Sogin, a depression in size of the gorge make the hike even ise an escape from the masses, as only around the edge of a luscious green hyaloclastite ridges, were developed more eerie on a rainy, hazy day. Since sheep accompanied us on our journey hill and following a couple of munch- from such a subglacial eruption. As the canyon is quite shallow, we decid- through the reserve. ing sheep, a steamy geothermal patch magma met ice, it led to a thermal ed it was time to face the storm that blessed us with that beloved sulfur shock and cacophony of colour. awaited us beyond its protection. Dancing in a Duster smell, which can’t help but make one After exploring “Little Landma- As you’re tagging along on the pil- wonder what slumbers below the nnalaugar,” we drove back down the grimage to the Reykjanes’s newest at- Journeying around Iceland, it’s easy earthly surface under your feet. Mak- pitted road to Eldborg crater and set traction—yes, the volcano—consider to question which century you’re in. ing our way through the narrow val- out on another hike as a storm began stopping at Sogin and Lambafellsgjá. Paved roads can be a treasure to come ley, following a small rippling water to roll in—how typically Icelandic. Often skipped by the tourist crowds, Support the Grapevine! View this QR code in your by and hidden gems are no exception. stream—quite an atypical occurrence you’re likely to be joined only by sheep. phone camera to visit Travelling to less popular spots like on the peninsula—we were met by Disappearing into the Like the rest of the country, this area our tour booking site the Reykjanes Nature Reserve cer- colourful clay patches covering the depths of lava is truly a gem and must be treated as tainly doesn't promise to be the most ground as we moved towards Sogin. such. So take your trash and never comfortable, but we didn’t come for The clay shone in numerous daz- As rain began to fall, we reached leave more than footprints—the elves comfort. There’s nothing quite like zling shades of orange, whites and Lambafellsgjá, an open fissure in will thank you! bouncing around in a Dacia Duster on blues at the entrance of the natural the pitted, gravel road to the reserve— depression of Sogin. It’s, to put it sim- it almost feels like a dance. Be sure the ply, otherworldly. The vibrant natural

Not a soul in sight (unless you count plants and lichen) Alina & Brittnee, acting natural in nature The Reykjavík Grapevine 31 HORROR!SCOPES cial hazard masks, five different Sags (despite being fucking idi- hand-sanitizers and even ended ots) we bet you’ll be fine. Can’t say Issue 08— 2021 up brewing one in your base- the same for Virgos. ment because you didn’t trust WELL, YOU ASKED the store bought varieties. Being Capricorn Post-Covid CALAMITY! around people stresses you out and you’d love to go into another Words: Tot"l Astrology Experts Alin" & H"nn"h J"ne Hide. The stars urge it. lockdown so you can go back to munching frozen pizza on your The amateur astrologers of the supposed to hug people? For a crusty couch. Life’s back, so get Grapevine were having a blast Gemini, that’s a daily struggle. out of your comfort zone ASAP. Aquarius in the post-COVID cosmos until Please, don’t feel pressured to Delta struck. But how will you do show the affection you’ve always It’s an understatement to say when this all inevitably ends? The lacked in your cold, dark soul. that people are excited to finally stars speak. Others can sense the insincerity Libra see some live music again. Take and, to be frank, it’s off-putting advantage of this by forming af. As always, you’re somewhere the solo post-brutal tech death in the middle. After going Aries project you’ve always dreamed to therapy during the day to of. Aries… There’s a limit to how cope with the return of social German Invasion! much people want to hear you Cancer interactions, you’re back in the bitch about how miserable cocktail bars drinking away Pisces Words: Alina Maurer your COVID experience was. Well… despite being vaxxed you your sorrow and anxiety. While Everyone was there. Literally ended up the unlucky one who listening to your trusty govern- We’re ethereal all-knowing be- A German answers some questions from everyone in the world experi- got COVID after restrictions were ment, you can’t quite shut out ings, Pisces. We see the bottles Germans. Stupid questions call for stupid enced the pandemic and most lifted. Our constellations recom- the anti-vaxxers and are always of hand-sanitizer in your purse answers. But well, you asked... others didn’t have Netflix, mend you stay away from Insta- on the verge of making your and watch you discreetly apply- ing them under the table after Disney+, Hulu, Amazon Prime gram and Twitter this month to own rules. But hey—try to relax I’m a German tourist and currently protect your mental health. No you’re socially pressured into and HBOMax subscriptions. and stop being awkward. in Iceland. I don’t want it to be obvi- one wants to see others dancing shaking someone’s hand. Wel- Use your empathy. We know you ous that I’m not from here. How can have it in you. in a club while you sit on your sofa come to your new life. There’s and cough. a lot of conspiracy Facebook I fit in? Scorpio groups we think you’d love. Well, just the fact that you’re of Ger- man descent is going to make it dif- Taurus The reason you haven’t received ficult. Not sure if it’s a certain look or Leo any party invites isn’t because behaviour, but recognizing us is quite It’s a shame your sourdough they aren’t happening. easy. It’s all about the money for Ger- starter didn’t survive the Finally! It’s safe to hold a man creatures, so the first step to blend pandemic, but we admire your karaoke mic. Wow the crowd in is not being cheap. I know it’s hard. courage in the face of adversity. with your “Wuthering Heights” Use this opportunity to start a interpretation, complete with Sagittarius But Iceland is not a Turkish haggle new life, for there’s a lot of other the original choreography. market; you cannot succeed. Icelanders options out there. A kombucha Well it took about two hours after are sneaky enough to rip you off, while scoby perhaps? your Jansen vax for you to totally making you believe you made a good forget about the past year and re- deal. One more thing, don’t you dare Virgo sume your reckless behaviour of smuggle your own German food just kissing people on the cheek and to save some pennies. Broaden your Gemini Take a deep breath. We all know taking puffs of stranger’s ciga- Pretzel-horizon and try something the past year has stressed you rettes. We’d recommend watch- new—you can have your wurst at home. It’s natural to feel confused in out like nothing before. You ing out for the Delta variant, but Here, we eat pylsur. this new NEW normal. Are you have been carrying around spe- knowing the charmed luck of Step two for passing as an Icelander: Stop using tissues and start snorting mucus up your nose—best if it comes with a distinct sound. Also, always start your sentences with “Heyrðu” and loudly blurt out “Ha” if you didn’t quite catch something. Lastly, no hiking attire is allowed on Laugavegur. To be clear, the one downtown. There will be no avalanches or heavy river crossings on the main shopping street. Leave your “Jack Wolf- skin'' outfit at home—it is neither cool, nor stylish and never will be.

Why do I need to shower naked at the Icelandic pools? I don’t like being naked around strangers. Toughen up. Nobody is gonna look at you because everybody is too busy deal- ing with their own insecurities. Get over it and just freaking clean yourself. Nobody wants to sit in the same hot tub as you, when you’re crusty and haven’t cleaned your butt in a few days. If you still try to disobey, the pool shower guard might find you as they check for naughty tourists. They will yell at you, while Icelanders look with a disapprov- ing look. It’s not worth it, buddy. CITY SHOT by Art Bicnick

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LIFE, TRAVEL & ENTERTAINMENT IN ICELAND

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