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WH investigates GROUND RULES When the World Health Organization released the results of a study classifying processed in the same category as cigarettes, it shocked chorizo lovers the world over. , the new sticks… seriously?

BY ALICE ELLIS PHOTOGRAPHY BY BRENDAN HOMAN

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and bowel cancer (aka ), as well as stomach, pancreatic and , is not as obvious as many studies, so the link between meat those between smoking and lung cancer and cancer has been becoming obvious or UV rays and melanoma. But let’s take very high-level science,” says Stewart. for a while, and WH health expert a look at what they know... “The simple scenario of processed Dr Ginni Mansberg started taking Preservatives called nitrites and meat being contaminated by some it seriously a couple of decades back: nitrates tend to take the blame. type of is simply not true, “My eldest son Sam is turning 24 this They are salts from either natural or it’s much more complicated than that. year; I was still giving him cured meats synthetic sources that are added to Although some in very when he was about two years old, and many packaged foods – also cheese, small quantities can be identified [in then I stopped because the data started tinned legumes, dips – to keep them processed and red meat], they can be Before you skip the coming out.” No for Sam. fresh for longer. (They’re usually listed identified in other foods too. It may aisle of the supermarket on food packaging as preservatives 250 well be a combination of [things] – not for eternity, here’s the WHAT’S BAAA-D or 251.) In our digestive tract, nitrites just the nitroso compounds, nitrate background: the October ABOUT MEAT? form , carcinogenic compounds and the presence of 2015 conclusions were the To clarify: the IARC study did not compounds. According to research hetrocyclingamines or .” results of a meta-analysis, establish red meat as a cause of cancer, by Food Standards Australia New This all sounds like a lack of cold hard an investigation of existing despite strong mechanistic evidence Zealand (FSANZ), our largest facts, but Stewart points out the focus studies, in which a World supporting a carcinogenic effect, dietary source of nitrites is actually of the meta-analysis was not so much Health Organization (WHO) mainly because it considered the fruit and veg, but when nitrites to find out how consuming processed subsidiary, the International evidence to be limited. On the other occur naturally, they don’t turn and red meat can lead to cancer, but Agency for Research on hand, landing in with carcinogenic during digestion. instead to resolve if they cause cancer. Australia 93kg Cancer (IARC), evaluated the Group 1 carcinogens means the Before you start overloading your “It’s all very well to emphasise the United States 91.1kg more than 800 published majority of the IARC Working bin with your pantry’s tinned food, complexity [of the link between meat reports. It led the WHO Group considered the evidence the FSANZ research also concluded and cancer], but the data did allow us to Israel 86kg to label processed meat consistent enough to conclude that our dietary nitrite exposure from reach a clear conclusion,” says Stewart. 84.7kg as a Group 1 carcinogen that consumption of it causes cancer. all food sources is ‘not considered to That conclusion was classifying Uruguay 82.9kg – along with asbestos So what puts bacon up there with represent an appreciable health and processed meat as a Group 1 carcinogen TOP and UV rays – meaning Brazil 78.1kg ciggies? That part’s not entirely clear safety risk’, and Stewart backs this up: and red meat as Group 2A. “You cut New Zealand 73.5kg there’s strong evidence yet. Professor Bernard Stewart, “Fifty years ago, nitrite was used [in out processed meat, you decrease the MEAT- linking bowel cancer to the chair of the WHO committee that high concentrates] as a preservative risk of cancer – from a public health Chile 72.5kg consumption of processed made the meat and cancer ruling, – when you bought bacon or ham, for point of view, it doesn’t matter if eating LOVING Canada 70.5kg meat (that’s meat that as well as scientific advisor to example, you could leave it on the shelf, processed meat causes cancer directly or * Malaysia 54.9kg has been ‘transformed COUNTRIES through salting, curing, Cancer Council Australia, says you didn’t need to refrigerate it, that causes cancer because you get obese and South Africa 50.7kg fermentation, smoking the link between processed was the whole point of bacon and ham, you get cancer for that reason.” Saudi Arabia 50.5kg it lasted before there was refrigeration. Kathy Chapman, chair of the Cancer or other processes to 50.2kg Now [we need to] put bacon and ham Council’s Nutrition and Physical Russia enhance flavour or South Korea 50.2kg improve preservation’). in the fridge because there’s virtually Activity Committee, adds, “It might be no nitrite added to it. The formation of [meat’s] high content, the charring in China 48.8kg

They put red meats in Group 2A: foods or 50G nitroso compounds was recognised 50 the process, or big meat eaters substances that probably cause cancer, This much years ago, and that’s why [the addition missing out on the protective benefits of a category that includes the pesticide processed of] nitrite was decreased.” Good-o. plant-based foods – or a combination DDT and the insecticide malathion. Not meat per day Stewart says there are various of these factors.” Regardless, she says, great company. (Oh, and sorry belly increases the categories of nitroso compounds red and processed meats are associated fans: despite being known as ‘the other risk of bowel (unpronounceable word alert): with around one in six bowel ’, for the study’s purposes, cancer by 18 “Polycyclic aromatic hydrocarbons, diagnosed in Australia. pork is considered red.) per cent. heterocyclic amines and heme iron Newsflash: none of this is news! As – they are all of concern yet none of DON’T HAVE A COW mentioned, the IARC study was a meta- them is the proven culprit.” So why Time to turn down those alarm bells analysis that looked at the results of consumption of processed meat can – while processed meat sits alongside lead to cancer is not yet completely ciggies in the Group 1 carcinogens understood – at least not in a way that’s list, this doesn’t actually mean eating easy to communicate to the public. “It’s bacon is as dangerous as smoking.

*KILOGRAMS OF , , LAMB, PORK AND CONSUMED PER CAPITA, PER YEAR. SOURCE: OECD-FAO AGRICULTURAL OUTLOOK 2014 Phew. The IARC says the cancer risk

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associated with meat consumption is beef-obsessed Argentinians. According not as high as tobacco and sunshine, to 2013 Organisation for Economic and is, importantly, related to how Co-operation and Development (OECD) BEST much you consume. data, each of us puts away 93kg of meat Let’s put bowel-cancer risk in context: providing an important source of each year – about 1.8kg per week. Even GREEN CAP IT about one million deaths result from iron, zinc and vitamin B12. However, someone with C-minus maths skills OFF tobacco-related cancers each year, regular consumption of greater than would see that’s a lot more than the PROTEINS globally – while only about 34,000 100-120g/day of cooked red meat has guidelines recommend. 2016 is the International cancer deaths per year worldwide are been linked with an increased risk So sub that meat with vegies Year of Pulses (ie, attributable to diets high in processed of colorectal cancer, so it’s a bit like (hello, Meat-Free Monday, Tuesday, lentils, beans, peas and chickpeas). Get your meat. We should point out that bowel sunlight – a little bit is good for you, Wednesday...) and, bonus, you reap their finger on these pulses, cancer is the second most common but don’t overdo it; 455g per week cancer-preventing effects. “Eating more as well as legumes, with cause of cancer death in Oz, where the of cooked lean red meat represents fruit, vegetables and whole grains can this breakdown thanks lifetime risk of a woman developing the ideal amount for Australian help you to moderate your intake of to Fern Green, author bowel cancer is one in 14. Fifty grams adults.” Australia’s National Health processed and red meats and can also of Green Proteins… of ham (about two slices) per day would and Medical Research Council help to protect against cancer,” says raise that risk by 18 per cent – giving recommends that people limit their Chapman. Of course, ’s still on you about an 8.4 per cent overall risk. intake to even less than that – no the menu – we could probably all do Of course, the risk rises more if you more than 65 to 100g of lean red with more omega-3s in our lives. And eat more meat. And some people are at meat, three to four times a week. when we do eat meat, try to make it a higher risk than the general population This means a few palm-sized fillets, the high-quality, lean, grass-fed stuff. – risk factors include a family history not a porterhouse on Monday, osso Treat prosciutto, and Reuben Other of the disease, a history of colon polyps bucco on Wednesday, Massaman sandwiches as just that – treats. That Protein per health Have or conditions like Crohn’s disease curry on Friday and roast lamb on way you can have your health and eat The food 100g benefits them in… or ulcerative colitis. You can help Sunday. Plus bacon at Saturday’s meat too. Oh, and while we’ve whet your counteract the risk with physical brunch and ham a few days for appetite for vegetables, turn the page for LENTILS 26g High in magnesium Stuffed capsicums activity, maintaining a healthy weight lunch. This meaty menu seems a whole lot of cutting-veg recipes. WH and fibre; aid and not smoking, says Chapman. reflective of our actual intake, digestion because Australians eat more SPLIT PEAS 25g Help stabilise Pea & broccoli soup LESS IS MORE meat, per capita, than any other blood sugar; Every day we do lots of dicey things: country*. Yep, even more than WHAT very high fibre flying, radiating ourselves with burger-scoffing Yanks and KIDNEY 24g Help stabilise Turkish eggs mobile phones, breathing in pollution, ABOUT BEANS blood sugar; drinking from plastic bottles. Alcoholic antioxidant rich drinks are also classified as a Group CHICKEN? MUNG BEANS 23.86g Rich in fibre; Pilaf 1 carcinogen, but that doesn’t stop The study reduces us from popping a bottle of bubbly didn’t look at fresh poultry BORLOTTI 23g Help stabilise blood Homemade baked – instead, we (try to) limit our intake. – apparently BEANS sugar; rich in B beans We take risks because we weigh them because public vitamins, iron, up against the benefits and decide health experts potassium, zinc they’re worth taking. So let’s just don’t believe it’s a CANNELLINI 22.3g Help stabilise Burger patties remind ourselves why we eat meat concern. “Chicken BEANS blood sugar; – and not only because… mmm… bacon. consumption antioxidant rich “Red meat, such as beef and lamb, is consistently comes a critical natural source of iron and zinc, up as being not TEMPEH 18g Reduces San choy bow cholesterol vitamin B12 and omega-3 – essential really linked to any nutrients needed to keep your body diseases,” says WH health expert Dr and brain functioning well,” says Meat Ginni Mansberg. AZUKI BEANS 17.3g Aid digestion; Brownies and Australia spokesperson “There’s also stabilise Clair Cameron. “The iron and zinc in cholesterol; may nothing really for help prevent beef and lamb are well absorbed by the

fish, seafood.” *INCLUDES BEEF, VEAL, LAMB, PORK AND POULTRY breast cancer body, better than the iron and zinc in plant-based foods. And vitamin B12 NUTS AND 20-30g Full of healthy Your hand is only found in animal foods, so if you SEEDS for heart health; mineral rich don’t eat meat, chicken, fish, eggs and dairy products […] a supplement is required.” The Dietitians Association of Australia agrees: “Lean red meat has a valuable place in the Australian diet,

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