Handbook of the Sudan
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UC-NRLF SB 5b3 511 [All Bights E HANDBOOK THE S U D A N. PART I.—GEOGRAPHICAL. South of from Wadai to Aby Sudan, Omdurman ; uert nyanza. PART II.—HISTORICAL. Sketch of the History of the Sudan to date. OMPILED IN THE INTELLIGENCE DIVISION, WAR OFFICE, BY CAPTAIN COUNT GLEICREN, Grenadier Guards, D.A.A.G-. 18 9 8 LONDON: PRINTED FOR HER MAJESTY'S. STATIONERY OFFICE, BY HARRISON AND SONS, ST. MARTIN'S LANE, PRINTERS IN ORDINARY TO HER MAJESTY. And to be purcha directly or through any Bookseller, from EYRE&SPOTTISWO st Harding Street -tkeet, E.C.; [N MENZ1ES >treet, Edinburgh, and . West Nile Street, Glasgow; or HODGES. FIGGIS, & Co., Limited, 104, Grafton Street, Dublin. 5 ''lings IN MEMOR1AM BERNARD MOSES [All Bights Reserved. HANDBOOK . THE , . > OP . SUDAN. PART L—GEOGRAPHICAL. The Sudan, South of Omdurman; from Wadai to Abyssinia, and from Khartum to the Albert Nyanza. PART II.—HISTORICAL. Sketch of the History of the Sudan to date. COMPILED IN THE INTELLIGENCE DIVISION, WAR OFFICE, BY CAPTAIN COUNT^ GLEICHEN, Grenadier Guards, D.A.A.G. 1898 LONDON: PRINTED FOR HER MAJESTY'S STATIONERY OFFICE, BY HARBISON AND SONS, ST. MARTIN'S LANE, PRINTERS IN ORDINARY TO HER MAJESTY. And to be purchased, either directly or through any Bookseller, from EYRE & SFOTT1SWOODE, East Harding Street, Fleet Street, E.C.; or JOHN MENZ1ES & Co., 12, Hanover Street, Edinburgh, and 90, West Nile Street, Glasgow; or HODGES, FIGGIS, & Co., Limited, 104, Grafton Street, Dublin. Price Two Shillings. ^7 BERNARD MOSES 10595 250 9 98—H & S (Wt. | 1767) INTRODUCTOKY NOTE. With the exception of a portion of the Bahr el Ghazal country and parts of the Nile south of Lado, no part of the regions treated of in the following pages has been traversed by Europeans since the Hicks' Disaster in 1883. Many changes have doubtless occurred since the spreading of the Mahdist rebellion over these vast territories but these are ; changes mainly historical, affecting the condition, lives, and numbers of the population. As regards topography, the rivers may have altered their course to some extent, much ground must have gone out of cultivation, and we know that many towns and villages have ceased to exist, whilst wild animal and vegetable life has been on the increase. But it can hardly be expected that important changes can have taken place in the territorial aspect of the countries dealt with. It is, therefore, to be hoped that the following account of the geographical aspect of the Sudan, compiled from the works of responsible travellers, will be found to be accurate. [In Part I, nearly half of Chapters III and IV, and almost the whole of Chapter V, has been taken from " the Report on the Egyptian Provinces of the Sudan," Intell. Branch, W.O., 1884. To the same source is due most of the history (Part II) from 1837 to 1882.] J. C. ARDAGH, Major-General, D.M.I 16th July, 1898. 783716 CONTENTS. PART I.—TOPOGRAPHICAL. CHAPTER I. The White Nile prom Khartum to the Albert Nyanza* page » . 1 General Description (downstream) . » Junction of the Niles at Khartum . 2 . 2 Navigability (upstream) . 6 Landing Places . Climate . » . 7 Distances (in miles) . » . 8 The Nile above Khartum (detailed description) . » . 9 CHAPTER II. Tributaries op the White Nile. {a) The Blue Nile :— 21 General Description . Detailed Description 22 (b) The Sobat . 26 (c) The Bahr ez Zeraf . 27 {d) The Bahr el G-hazal . 28 (V) The Bahr el Arab . 35 if) Southern Affluents of the Buhur el G-hazal and el Arab 36 CHAPTER III. Country on the Lept Banks of the White Nile and Bahr el Arab. (a) Kordofan : — General Description 38 Means of Transport 41 (1767> A 2 VI — Route I Omdurman to El Obeid : — (i) Omdurman to Abu Kurat via lira el Hadra . 42 (ii) Khartum to Abu Kurat via Woad Shelai . 44 (iii) El G-etaineh to Abu Kurat . 45 (iv) Abu Kurat to El Obeid 45 Water Supply 48 Population and Tribes . 51 Towns and Localities (El Obeid, &c.) . 56 Produce . 57 Animals . „ 60 Climate 61 (b) Darfur r— General Description 64 Inhabitants (v. also p. 54) 67 Produce . ; 69 Towns (El Fasher, &c.) 71 Route II—El Obeid to El Fasher 72 ,, (i) via Guradi 73 „ (ii) via Foga (telegraph route) 77 Southern Darfur, between Dara and Hofrat en Naha 78 Route III—Dara to Hofrat en Nahas 79 — (c) Dar Nuba : Description . 82 Population . 83 (d) Shilluk District :— Description and Population . 84 CHAPTER IY. Country to the East of the White Nile. betiveen the White and Blue Niles. (i) Country— (a) Sennar : General Description .. .. .. .. .. 87 History 88 Topography 88 Inhabitants . 90 Animals and— Climate . 93 Route IV Sennar Town to Kawa . 94 (b) Dar el Fungi : — . Description . 95 : — (c) Beni Shangul Description 96 Vll (ii) Country East of the Blue Nile. page General Description . , . 97 (d) Gedaref:— Description . 98 Gedaref to Gallabat Country . 99 (e) Gallabat : — Description . 99 Inhabitants . 100 if) Country between the Blue Nile and Gallabat • — Description. 100 Rahad and Dinder Rivers. 101 (iii) Country East of the Bahr el Jebel. General Description . 10J Former Stations and Communications . 102 Inhabitants . 105 Produce 107 CHAPTER V. Bahr el Ghazal Country. General Description of Southern Provinees .. .. .. 110 (a) Bahr el Ghazal (old Mudirieh) Ill Topography and Villages . 112 Bongo Country and Inhabitants . 114 Dinka Country and Inhabitants . 119 Nuer, Jur, and other Tribes . 121 Fertit . Krej and Dar Country . , . 125 (b) Lado (old Mudirieh) 126 (c) Rohl (old Mudirieh) :— Topography and Villages . 127 (d) Makaraka (old Mudirieh) : — Description . , . 129 Tribes 130 Topography 131 PART II.—HISTORICAL. CHAPTER I. History up to 1882. page! Early History . - . 139 Conquest by Mehemei A li .. .. .. .. .. 143 Upper Nile Explorations and Developments . 147 Conquest of Darfur . 151 Relations with Abyssinia and Harrar (1874-1879) . 153 Gordon's Operations .. .. .. .. .. .. 159 Campaigns against Slave Traders . 164 Rise of Mahdism .. ... 170 CHAPTER II. Events on Nile from 1882 onwards. 1883 and the Hicks' Expedition 174 Arrival of Grordon at Khartum .. .. .. .. .. 175 Nile Expedition Starts . 176 Fall of Khartum and Death of Gordon 178 Gianis . 179 Egyptian Army . 180 Toski and Frontier Fighting . .. 181 Dongola, 1896 183 CHAPTER III. Darfur and Kordofan from 1882 onwards. Sketch of Events 185 CHAPTER IV. Eastern Sudan from 1882 onwards. Suakin Expedition, 1884 188 1885 . ..189 Attack Dervishes Battle of .. .. 191 Abyssinians ; Matamma Recapture of Tokar . 192 Battle of Agordat and Recapture of Kassala . ,. 193 CHAPTER V. Bahr el Ghazal and Equatoria from 1882 onwards. Lupton and the Rebellion . 195 Emin and the Rebellion . 196 Relations with Congo Free State . , . 20O Capture of Regaf .. 205 ix APPENDICES. page Appendix I—The Sudd •• 207 „ ii—q-lossaey of some sudanese teems ,« 214 „ III—BONCHAMP's JOUENEY TO THE TJPPEB SOBAt, 1897-98 216 LIST OF AUTHORITIES CONSULTED. # Perennial Irrigation (Willcocks), 1894. *Report on Egyptian Provinces of Sudan, Eed Sea, and Equator, 1884. Incidents of a Journey through Nubia and Darfoor (Ensor), 1875-76. Uganda and the Egyptian Soudan (Felkin), 1879-80. 2 vols. Petermann's Mittheilungen, 1875, 1877, 1879, 1880, 1881, 1883. 1888. General- Report on the Province of Kordofan (Prout), 1877. Northern and Central Eordofan (Colston), 1878. The Cradle of the Blue Nile (de Cosson), 1873. 2 vols. Travels in Africa (Junker), 1875-86. 3 vols. Voyage aux deux Nils (Lejean), 1860-61, and Atlas. The Nile Tributaries of Abyssinia (Baker), 1861-62. Survey of the White Nile (Logbook by Lieut. Watson), 1874-75. Emin Pasha and the Rebellion at the Equator (Jephson), 1887-88. Reisen in Nubien, &c. (Russegger), 1838. # Report on the Soudan (Lieut.-Col. Stewart), 1883 (Blue Book, Egypt, No. 11, 1883). Reisen im G-ebiete des Nil (Marno), 1869-73. With Hicks Pasha in the Soudan (Colborne), 1883. Reise in der Egyptischen Aquatorial Provinz und in Kordofan, 1875 (Marno) . Campaigning on the Upper Nile and Niger (Yandeleur), 1897. Bulletins de la Societe Khediviale de Geographie, 1876-93. Proceedings of the Royal G-eographical Society, 1884, 1887. Mahdism and the Egyptian Sudan (Wingate), 1891. Ten Years Captivity in the Mahdi's Camp (Ohrwalder), 1892. Colonel Gordon in Central Africa (Hill), 1884. Mittheilungen der Geog. Gesellschaft in Wien, 1870. Ten Years in Equatoria (Casati), 1880-89. 2 vols. * Government Publications. XI List of Authoeities Consulted—continued. Fire and Sword in the Sudan (Slatin), 1895. of 2 vols. Heart Africa (Schweinfurth) , 1868-71. Travels in Central Africa (Petherick), 1862. 2 vols. Ismailia (Baker), 1869-73. 2 vols. *Eritrea (Major Barker), 1894. *Eritrea and Abyssinia (Col. Slade), 1896. Zeitschrift fur Allgemeine Erdkunde, 1879. *History of the Sudan Campaign (Colvile), 1889. 2 vols. •Intelligence Eeports, Egypt, 1891-98. Emin Pascha (Schweitzer), 1898. Albert Nyanza (Baker), 1867. 2 vols. Journal of the Discovery of the Source of the Nile (Speke), 1863. Sette Anni nel Sudan Egiziano (G-essi), 1891. L'Afrique exploree et Civilisee, 1881-85. A Walk Across Africa (Grant), 1864 And numerous other Periodicals and Newspapers. * Grovernment Publications. PART I.—TOPOGRAPHICAL. CHAPTER I. THE WHITE NILE FROM OMDURMAN TO THE ALBERT NYANZA. General Description (Downstream). After leaving the Albert Nyanza, the White Nile (or, as it is called up there, the Bahr el Jebel) flows for 135 miles in a deep broad arm with scarcely any slope or velocity to Dufile, and then, after a short and troubled course, tosses over the Fola Falls in a channel only 50 yards broad. From here it continues as a torrent to about Regaf. Here the river is 7 feet deep at low Nile and 15 feet in flood time, discharging1 between 500 and 1,600 tons (18,000 to 60,000 cubic feet) per second. The regulating effects of the great lakes are well felt here.