Corvina – Alternative Varieties Column (PDF)

ALTERNATIVE VITICULTUREWINEMAKINGVITICULTURE VARIETIES (Italy’s DOC permits 15-17%). The drying varieties. Curious Australian wine theme is the very sippable Freeman process modifies the seed and stem drinkers can now also buy affordable Rosso blend (Corvina and Rondinella) tannins, eliminating any green, unripe Valpolicella at Dan Murphy’s, which has made without dried fruit echoing characters and contributing intense, nurtured consumer interest in these Valpolicella, Bardolino or Pinot Noir. mouth-coating tannins to the resulting food-compatible, Italian-inspired reds. The challenge here is sensitive irrigation wine. Moreover, wine lists are increasingly and yield management, and in the Tannin management is critical in citing Corvina as a stand-alone segment winery, judicious skin contact. making this unique wine, achieved affording it a pedestal alongside The emerging flagship is the partly through co-fermentation of the Sangiovese and Nebbiolo — and with Freeman Robusta Corvina, first dried and fresh grapes. The massive that comes recognition. natural grape extract takes several years One of Corvina’s significant assets is produced in 2012 — an to mellow. its remarkable versatility. The Freeman unapologetically big red made from We seek to achieve concentrated portfolio now includes three expressions 100% semi-dried Corvina grapes. extract and palate weight without — the original Secco blend (50/50 Fermentation is triggered by an excessive alcohol, crafting a voluptuous, Corvina- Rondinella), a softer style indigenous yeast, inherited from 100 multi-layered, contemplative red. blend, and the stalwart Freeman years of local prune production. The The whole-bunch drying process Robusta.The latest Freeman riff on the back label suggests (rightly) it is ‘not for modifies the tannin structure, further Corvina the faint-hearted’. balanced by the wild and cultured yeast WVJ fermentation and up to three months’ maceration of both fresh and dried grapes. During this period the undamaged, dried grapes undergo Corvina carbonic maceration adding to By Peter Dry, Emeritus Fellow, complexity. The Australian Wine Research Institute The grapes are pressed into old hogsheads with fermentation ending in BACKGROUND VITICULTURE spring when the wine is racked to old Corvina (kor-VEEN-uh) is an old red Budburst is late and maturity is late. barrels for two years’ ageing before grape variety, perhaps known since the In the Hilltops region, target ripeness is bottling and the final ageing phase — early 17th century. It was first described typically not achieved until mid-April or another two years. The process takes in 1818 and said to be widespread in later. Vigour is moderate to high with the best of both worlds — the dried Veneto, its place of origin in north-east a semi-erect growth habit. Bunches ‘secco’ grapes amplifying a Italy. Its full name is Corvina Veronese are small to large depending on the concentrated, fruit-driven savoury red — but in Australia it is mainly known clone, with small berries. Yield is low to wine. as Corvina. In Valpolicella it is blended moderate. Cane pruning is mainly used Freeman ‘Secco’ Rondinella Corvina with the higher yielding Rondinella in Italy, but spur pruning has been used and Molinara (including Amarone in Australia. Susceptibility to downy is released with four years’ maturity, a and Recioto styles where Corvina mildew, sunburn and drought is high. necessary commitment to the is typically 40-80%). In Garda DOC, The berries have thick skins that are Amarone-inspired style that takes Corvina may be 100%. Main synonyms ideal for drying and protecting the grape patience to achieve its seductive are Corvina Comune, Corvina Gentile, from rot. intensity. Corvina Nostrana, Corvina Reale and Cruina. DNA analysis has shown WINE SEDUCTIVE SECCO that both Corbina and Corvinone are Corvina produces light to medium- Our 20-year-old vines are developing different varieties to Corvina; and bodied wines with moderate colour more complexity every season. The that it is related to Garganega, and is and fresh acidity. Tannins are low to early 2004 Freeman ‘Secco’ Rondinella also a parent of Rondinella. Corvina moderate. Descriptors include bitter Corvina garnered several trophies, is practically unknown outside north- almond and sour cherry. In some parts including Best Mature Dry Red at the east Italy. The global area (2010) was of Veneto, barrel ageing is used to add 2009 and 2011 NSW Wine Awards. 7496ha, 60% higher than in 2000, close more structure and complexity to the Wider consumer exposure to to 100% planted in the Veneto. There wine. It has been said that the growers imported Italian wines has broadened is a small area in Mendoza, Argentina. in Valpolicella began drying grapes awareness and appeal of these savoury The area in Australia is tiny and there artificially to compensate for the lack are currently just three wine producers tannin-framed wines, even among wine of good ripening weather in autumn (Hilltops, Southern Highlands). and thereby created the Amarone and writers. The current release 2014 Recioto styles. Freeman Secco Rondinella Corvina was recently rated 95 points in the Halliday Wine Companion 2020. For further information on this and other emerging varieties, contact Marcel Sommeliers, wine writers and Essling at the AWRI ([email protected] or 08 8313 6600) to arrange the some wine judges are attracted by the presentation of the Alternative Varieties Research to Practice program in your region. style, which has assisted the domestic marketing challenge of a once totally unfamiliar wine made from unknown V34N4 WINE & VITICULTURE JOURNAL SPRING 2019 www.winetitles.com.au 59.

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