Index
A α,α-Diethylpyridine (Verdima), 261–262 Abril, 183 Absolu de Rochas, 195 Absolute of Jasmine (cis-2-pentenyl pentanolide), 40 Acetal E (acetaldehyde phenyl ethyl-ethyl acetal), 45 Acetal R (phenylethyl-alpha-propyl acetal), 45 acetaldehyde (Elintaal), 14, 45 acetals, 17 Acetomarane, 23 acetyl guaiacol (II), 106 acetyl thujopsene, 27 acetyl-1 ,5,9-trimethyl-1-5-9 cyclododecatriene (Trimofix), 28 acid, food, lactone and carmelized family, 64 α-Damascone thiomethyl ether, 69 α-Damascone [1-(2,6,6-trimethyl-2-cyclohexen-1-yl)-2-buten-1-one], 15, 19, 41, 43, 81 Adoxal (trimethylundecylenic aldehyde), 17 Agarwood, 87 agrestical family, 3, 4–5, 23–25, 50–52, 84–91, 147–154 Agrumal, 17, 125 Agrumen, 17 Agrunitril (citronellyl nitrile), 37 Agua Brava, 48 Agua Fresca by Adolfo Dominguez, 95 α-Hexyl-χ-butyrolactone, 68 α-Ionol, 247 α-Ionyl acetate, 247–248 Aire de Loewe, 116, 239 Aladinate (3-methyl-2-hexenyl acetate), 264 alcohol NU (5-ethyl-2-nonanol), 128, 212 aldehyde C.13, 5 aldehyde family, 3, 5–6, 26, 59–60, 91–92, 155–157 Aldehyde NU, 128 Aldehyde XI (p-Methylphenoxyacetaldehyde), 119 Algia, 76 algoid and marine odors, 32 Alkanyl acetate, 76
271 Perfumery: Techniques in Evolution alkoxypyrazines, 18, 44 Alliage, 42, 59, 66, 72, 73, 117 allo ocimenol (Muguol), 12 allyl cyclohexyl propionate, 43 allyl heptylate, 43 allyl phenoxyacetate, 43 allyl tiglate, 24 Alpha-Ambrinol epoxide (2-hydroxy-2,5,5-trimethyl-8,8-A-epoxy octaline), 32 alpha-cedrene epoxide (Andrane), 6, 27 alpha-hexyl-gamma-butyrolactone, 41 alpha-ionone, 16 alpha-methylene citronellal (Bergamal), 24 alpha-pinyl-isobutyraldehyde, 42 alpha-sinensal, 11 alpha-vetyvone, 30 altol, 105 alyl amyl glycolate, 126 Amarige, 128 Amazone, 17, 105, 128 Amber core (o-Terbutylcyclohexyloxybutanol-2), 96 amber ketal, 158, 159, 204–205 amber products, 8–9, 27, 32–34 Amber Xtreme, 160 ambergris animal chemicals, 57–59, 102–103 ambergris woody products, 53, 203–210 Ambersage, 50 Amboryl acetate, 54 Ambraketal (14,15-Bisnor Labdan,8-alpha,13,13,20-dioxide), 33 Ambraldehyde, 33 Ambrarome (cistus-labdanum absolute), 9 Ambretone (5-cyclohexadecenone), 102 Ambrettolide (cyclohexadecen-7-olide), 9, 10, 15 Ambrettone, Velvione (cyclohexadec-5-en-1-one), 196 Ambrinoloxyde (2-hydroxy-2,5,5-trimethyl-8,8-A-epoxyoctaline), 102 Ambrocenide (4,5,7,9-octahydro-2,2,5,8,8,9-hexamethylmethanoazulene-[5,6]- 1,3-dioxole), 158, 174, 205–208 Ambrogene (cistus-labdanum oils), 9 Ambronate, 41 Ambrophore, 9 Ambrox (methyl dodecahydro trimethyl naphtho furan), 8, 32 Ambroxan (methyl dodecahydro trimethyl naphtho furan), 8 Amerinal (dihydro alpha ionyl aldehyde), 37
272 Arcadi Boix Camps Index
α-Methylgeranyl nitrile (Citronile), 111 Amor Amor, 213 Amraketal (phantolid ketal + a methyl group), 94 Amritsar, 34 amyl tiglate, 24 Anais-Anais, 128, 159, 202, 204 Anapear (methyl octa-4,7-dienoate), 249–250 Anatolil, 39, 67–68 Andrane (alpha-cedrene epoxide), 6, 27 Angel, 106, 128, 215 Fiorucci Angel, 252 Angel Innocent, 197, 215, 252 Angel Schlesser, 195 angelic acid, 35 α-n-Hexyl cyclopentanone, 68 animal coiraceous, 211–212 animal florals, 41–42, 104–105, 122, 212–213 animal products, 3, 8–9, 32, 100 animal-fecal-costus chemicals, 59 Anise ether (p-Ethyl phenol ethyl ether), 64 anise family, 35, 65, 113, 227–228 Anisimal, 35 a-1-(5,5-dimethyl-1-cyclohexenyl)-4-penten-1-one, mainly [Neobutenone alpha], 255–257 Applelide (α-3,3-Trimethylcyclohane-1-methanol malonate), 248 Aquaman by Rochas, 162, 190, 193 Aramis, 34, 48, 105, 128 Aramis Devin, 42, 59 aranone-4, 52–53 Arden, Elizabeth Blue Grass, 68 Forever Elizabeth, 195 argawood oils, 87 Ariel Future, 121, 127 Armani for Men, 112 Armani Night for Her, 194 Aromatic Elixir, 65 Aromavert (Schiff base of campholenic aldehyde and methyl anthranilate), 108 aromel givco, 107 Arpége by Lanvin, 2, 38, 212 Arrova 16 (1,4-dioxa-cyclohexadecane-5,16,dione), 58 artemisia ketone (2,5,5-Trimethyl-2,6,-heptadien-4-one), 91
273 Perfumery: Techniques in Evolution
Artemone (1-acetyl-3,3-dimethyl-1-cyclohexene), 90, 91 Assam, 190 α-3,3-Trimethylcyclohane-1-methanol malonate (Applelide), 248 Aurelione (Cyclohexadecen-7,8-one), 201 Autumn, 71 α-Valerolactone, 61 α-Vetyvone, 169, 171–173 Azarbre (diethyl dimethyl-2-cyclohexen-1-one), 149 Azuril, 221 Azurone [7-(3’-methylbutyl)-benzo{β}-{1,4}-dioxepin-3-one], 251 Azzaro, 27 Azzaro pour homme, 14
B Baby Doll, 197, 202 Bacdanol, 29 Baldesarini by Hugo Boss, 217 balsamic family, 3, 10–11, 35–37, 106, 213–216 Balsapia, 85 Basala, 182, 183 Base E, 38 Base EJM, 38 Base XVIII E, 167 Basilex (8-Acetoxy-3-methyl-9-methylene-tricyclo-{5,2,1,0,2,6}-dec-3-ene), 85, 149 β-Coronal (2-Methyl-4[2,6,6-trimethyl-1-cyclo-hexenyl]-2-butenal), 60, 117 β-Damascenone [4-(2,6,6-trimethyl-1,3-cyclohexadienyl)-3,buten-4-one], 15, 16, 41, 43, 81, 231–232 β-Damascone [1-(2,2,6-trimethyl-2-cyclohexen-1-yl)-2-buten-1-one], 15, 36, 41, 43, 81, 232 Beaux, Ernest, 81, 235 Belambre [1,7,7-trimethyl-2’-(isopropyl)-spiro-(bicycloheptane)-2,4’-{1,3}- dioxane], 158, 209–210 benzoate, 17 benzofuran-2-yl methyl ketone (Coumarone), 219–220 benzyl cyanide, 39 Benzyl dipropylketone (Morellone), 108 Bergamal (alpha-methylene citronellal), 24 Berryflor (Ethyl 6-acetoxyhexanoate), 120–121 beta phenylethyl ethyl ether (Rosacinthin), 45 beta phenylethyl methyl ether (Genistafol or Pandanol), 45 Bicyclohexanone P (p-Cyclohexyl cyclo hexanone), 61
274 Arcadi Boix Camps Index
Bicyclolactone [2-Oxa-2-oxo-bicyclo (4,4,0) decane], 61 Bielaya Rosa (White Rose), 239 Bigaflor, 72 Bigaradial, 11, 26 blue ester, 150–151 Blue Grass by Elizabeth Arden, 68 BLV by Bulgari, 143, 162, 170, 175, 193 boccovert, 123 boccoxime, 123 Böcksaüre, 212 Bois d’Ambrete, 28 Bois Doree, 34 Boisambrene (formaldehyde-methyl-cyclododecylacetal), 27 Boisambrene Forte (formaldehyde-ethylcyclododecylacetal), 27 Boisanol (Trimethyl cyclododecadienol and trimethyl-cyclododecatrienol), 94 Boisomiel, 7 Boldo oil, 52 Bornafix [3-(2-Bornyloxy)-2-methyl,exo- 1.propanol], 164–165 Bornane-3,1-cyclopentanone-2 (sagetone V), 85 boronia florals, 117 Boss, Hugo–Baldesarini by, 217 Bourgenal, 14 Bourgeons de Cassis absolute, 46 Bovolide, 64 B-Oxoionyl isobutyrate, 109 b-phenylethyl alcohol, 233 β-Phenylethyl anthranylate, 239–240 Brahmanol, 29 bromarose (II), 119 Brunke, Ernst Joaquim, 161, 168 bucchu family, 252–255 Bucchu oil, 46 Buccoxime, 73 Bulgari BLV, 143, 162, 170, 175, 193 Bulgari for Ladies, 99, 190, 239 Bulgari for Men, 101, 114, 127, 228 Bulgari Onmia, 193, 256, 257 Cologne au the Vert, 89, 90 Bulgarian Rose, 36, 81 Butanal hexyleneglycol acetal (Herbane), 127 Butenandt, Adolf, 211
275 Perfumery: Techniques in Evolution butyl pentenoate, 24 butylic acid, 89 butyrate, 16 β-Vetyvone, 169
C C-13 aldehyde, 60 C.8 aldehyde diethyl acetal, 75 C.8 aldehyde dimethyl acetal, 75 Cabochad by Gres, 2 Cabotine, 128 Calandre, 8, 17, 71, 74 calarene epoxide, 27, 28 Caleche by Hermès, 2 Calone, 35, 43, 81 camonile, 89 Campal, 41 Campholen nitrile (Cantryl), 110 Campholenic aldehyde, 45, 76 camphor agresticals, 88 Candalum, 97–98 Canthoxal, 35 Cantryl (Campholen nitrile), 110 Caprinal, 59 caramel family, 34–35, 64, 105–106, 213–216 carbavert (methyl 2-hexenoate), 89 carbinols, 41 Cariofilanol, 54 Cariofilenol, 54 cariofilenyl formate (Caryolan), 27 carnation florals, 13–14, 117 Carnotheme, 14 Carven, Ma griffe by, 2 Caryolan (cariofilenyl formate), 27 caryophylene monoethyl alcohol, 27 Cashmeran [6, 7-dihydro-1,1,2,3,3-pentamethyl-4(5H)-indanone], 42, 44 Cashmeran “O,” 42, 44 Cassione (Helioptropyl acetone), 72 Cassis, 46, 64, 123–124, 252–255 Cassis Thio Formate (3-Mercapto-3-methylbutyl Formate), 254 Cassisthiol, 253 castoreum, 103
276 Arcadi Boix Camps Index
Castorol, 32 cedar woody chemicals, 53, 92 Cedeillal, 25 Cederleaf, 25 Cedernone (Ceto-cedrene), 54 Cedramber (cedryl methyl ether), 7, 27, 28 cedrol, 92 Cedroxyde (trimethylcyclodecatriene epoxide), 7, 27 cedryl methyl ether (Cedramber), 7, 27 Celine Dion, 194 Celine for Women, 194 Centifolyl, 39 Ceto-cedrene (Cedernone), 54 Cetonal [2-methyl-4-(2,6,6.trimethylcyclohexen-2-yl)-butanal], 247 Cetotabac (2,2,6-Trimethyl cyclo hex-5-en-1,4-dione), 36, 108–109, 217 cetylia, 81 chamomile/tea agresticals, 51–52, 89, 150–153 Chance, 143, 144, 162, 193 Chanel No 5, 2, 212, 235 Chanel No 19, 33, 68, 128, 159, 204 Charles, Jean, 81 CHHC by Carolina Hererra, 162, 254 Chic for Men by Carolina Herrera, 179, 193 Chinchilol (1-Allyl-2,2,7,7-tetramethylcycloheptanol), 86 Chloe Innocence by Chloe, 239 Chloe, 27 Chrysantal, 18, 19 Chrysantheme, 90, 121 Cialenga, 14 Ciclanol Acetate (2-cyclohexylethyl acetate), 68 cinnamalva ethyl safranate, 113 cinnamic alcohol, 233 cinnamic aldehyde, 113 cinnamil nitrile, 11 cis 4-hepten-2-ol, 44 cis 3-hexenylmethylcarbonate (Liffarome), 44 Cis-β-Santalol, 185 cis-dihydro shiseol (Mayol), 117 Cis-8-tetradecenal (Lemonenal Supra), 222–223 cis-4-decenal, 26 cis-4-heptenal, 5
277 Perfumery: Techniques in Evolution cis-4-(1-Methylethyl)cyclohexanemethanol [Mayol], 14 cis-4-tertiary pentylcyclohexyl ethyl ether (Ozofleur), 157–158 cis-jasmone, 13, 40 cis-jasmone lactone, 13, 39, 40 cis-9-undecenal, 155–157 (+)-cis-(1R,2S) methyl dihydrojasmonate [Paradisone], 242–245 cis-7-decenal, 157 cis-6-nonenol, 14–15, 43 cis-3-cis-6-nonadienol, 122 cis-3-hexenol, 125 cis-3-hexenyl acetoacetate (Hexenyl oxanate), 125 cis-3-hexenyl allyl ether, 73–74 cis-3-Hexenyl angelate, 263 cis-3-hexenyl anthranilate, 39 cis-3-Hexenyl cis-3-hexenoate, 74, 262 Cis-3-Hexenyl Cyclopropionate (Montaverdi), 260 cis-3-hexenyl γ-butyrolactone (III), 115 cis-3-hexenyl heptincarbonate, 19 cis-3-Hexenyl 2-methyl butyrate, 74 cis-3-Hexenyl 2-methyl pentenoate, 74 cis-3-Hexenyl methylallyl ether (Vivaldie), 261 cis-3-Hexenyl methyl-2-pentenoate, 264–265 cis-3-hexenyl salicylate, 38 cis-3-Hexenyl tiglate, 74, 262–263 cis-3-octenyl propionate (Pearlate), 264 Cistulate, 53 Cistus labdaniferus, 25 cistus-labdanum absolute (Ambrarome), 9 cis-2-pentenyl pentanolide (Absolute of Jasmine), 40 cis-2-pinanol, 88 cis-Verbenol, 51 citral glycerylacetal, 37 Citraldial, 26 Citralva, 37 citric family, 3, 11, 37, 63–64, 111, 221–224 citric greens, 46–47 citrile acetates, 4, 23 Citrindol, 105 citrodial, 5 Citrofresh, 46 Citroherbil, 37 Citroneland, 88, 89
278 Arcadi Boix Camps Index citronellal, 24 citronellic acid, 5, 24 citronellic agresticals, 51, 88–89 citronellol, 233 citronellyl, 6 citronellyl ethyl ether (Novorosan), 37 citronellyl nitrile (Agrunitril), 37 citronellyles, 42 Citronile (α-Methylgeranyl nitrile), 111 Citronitrile (phenyl methyl penten nitrile), 37 citronnellyl lactate [Rosilial (Rhodia)], 241 Citroxia, 63 citrus florals, 229–230 citrus fruity greens, 126 Civettone (cycloheptadecen-9-one), 9, 10, 15 CK Be, 197 CK One, 115, 128, 183, 198 Claritone (2,4,4,7-tetramethyl-oct-6-3n-3-one), 149–150 Clarycet (Tetrahydro-4-methyl-2-pyran-4-ol), 84–85 Coco Mademoiselle, 144, 161 coiraceous castoreum family, 103–104 coiraceous family, 37, 211–212 Cologne au the Vert, de Bulgari, 89, 90, 128 Cologne by Thierry Mugler, 170, 193 Contradiction, 118 Cool Water, 128 Cool Water for Men, 92 Coranol (4-Cyclohexyl-2-Methyl-2-butenol), 26, 114, 228–229 Corps Casis (8-mercapto-p-menthenone), 46 Corps 53 (4-Methyl-4-phenyl-2-pentanol acetate), 30 Corps Maracuya (dibutyl sulfide), 19 Corps popinal (4,4-Methyl-3-cyclohexenyl pentenal), 118 Corps Racine, 45 Corps Rhubarbe (lsobutylphenylethylcarbinyl acetate), 18 Corps Santal, 29 Cortex Aldehyde (phenoxyacetic aldehyde), 17, 18, 44 cortexal, 125 Cosmone, 202–203 Costacide, 211–212 Costaulon (4-Ethyl-4-methyl A Valerolactone), 59 Costia, 32 Costus Acid N, 59
279 Perfumery: Techniques in Evolution
Coty, L’Origan by, 2 coumarin balsams, 35–36 coumarin family, 219–221 coumarin-tonka family, 61, 109–111 Coumarone (benzofuran-2-yl methyl ketone), 219–220 Coumolide, 61, 110 Courreges 2020, 252 Crabtree & Evelyn, 162 Creed, 92 Creed White, 193 Cresol, 41 Cristalle, 128 Crypton (4-isopropyl-2-cyclohexenone), 66 Cuirencens, 45 cuminic aldehyde, 113 curzerenone, 107 Cyclamber (13,Oxabicyclo {10,3,0} pentadecane), 54, 96 cyclamen aldehyde, 14 cyclemone A, 92 Cyclo ethylene dodecandioate (1,4-dioxa-cyclohexadecane-5,16,dione), 58 cyclododecyl ethyl ether, 6 cyclododecyl methyl allyl ether, 6 cyclododecyl methyl ether (Palisandin), 6, 27 Cyclododecyl p-terbutyl ether, 53 cyclogalbanate (II), 126, 255 cycloheptadecen-9-one (Civettone), 9, 10, 15 cyclohexadecanone (Isomuscone), 194 Cyclohexadecanone or Musk CHD, 58 cyclohexadecen-8-one (Globanone), 197–198 Cyclohexadecen-7,8-one (Aurelione), 201 cyclohexadecen-7-olide (Ambrettolide or Moschus), 9, 10, 15 cyclohexadec-5-en-1-one (Ambrettone, Velvione), 196 Cyclohexanone diethylacetal (Rhumacetal), 124 Cyclohexene isopropylacetate (Cypronat), 107 Cyclohexyl crotonate, 85 Cyclohexyl salicylate, 66 Cyclomethylene citronellol, 74–75 Cyclomethylene citronellol (3--butanol), 117 cyclomugual nitrile, 92 Cyclonemal (Hexanal hexyleneglycolacetal), 127 Cyclopentacide (Cyclopentilideneacetic acid), 106 cyclopentadecanolide (Exaltolide), 9–10, 15
280 Arcadi Boix Camps Index cyclopentadecanone (Exaltone), 9, 15 cyclopentadecenolide (Habanolide), 101 Cyclopentadecenone (Exaltonene), 101 cyclopentenylacetic acid, 15 Cyclopentilideneacetic acid (Cyclopentacide), 106 Cyclopidene (methylcyclopentenyl acetate), 41 Cyclorosane, 74 Cyperius Scarious, 22 Cypronat (Cyclohexene isopropylacetate), 107
D damascate, 116 damascenia, 81 Damascenone Cyclogeranate (Ethyl safranate), 152 Damascenones, 15–16, 36, 81 Damascones, 15–16, 36, 81, 231 darjeeling, 108–109 Dartanol, 182 Datilat (1-Cyclohexyl ethyl crotonate), 121 Davidoff Davidoff, 217 Good Life, 118 Dazzling Gold, 236 DCHP (dimethyl cyclohexenylpentenone) [Neogall], 46–47 Decahydro-2,6,6,7,8,8- Hexamethyl-8H-indeno [4,5-B]-furan (Trisamber), 163 decalinol acetate, 40 Decatone (6-Isopropyl-2-decalone), 30 Decenyl cyclopentanone, 69 Dehydromenthofurolactone, 220–221 Dehydrotonkalide (4-Ethylbuten-4-olide), 110 Delphone (pentylcyclopentenone), 39, 40 Deltanate (Methyl-δ-cyclogeranate), 152–153 Deltia, 18 Desoxide (2-Methyl-2-vinyl-5-isopropenyl tetrahydrofuran), 23 Dextro Nor Limbanol [(+)-(3S, 1’R,6’S) Nor Limbanol. 2,2,6-Trimethyl-α-propyl cyclohexane propanol], 93, 160–161 dextro polysantol, 174 dextro 3,3-dimethyl-5-(2,2,3-trimethylcyclopent-3-enyl-1)-pent-4-enol-1 [Nirvanol], 174–175 dextro-cetalox, 210 Dianthox (Diantheme), 14, 117 dibutyl sulfide (Corps Maracuya), 19
281 Perfumery: Techniques in Evolution diethyl dimethyl-2-cyclohexen-1-one (Azarbre), 149 dihydro alpha ionyl aldehyde (Amerinal), 37 dihydroactinidolide, 57, 103 dihydro-a-ionone, 188–190 Dihydro-α-ionyl aldehyde, 57 dihydro-alpha-vetivone, 173 Dihydroambrettolide, 34 Dihydroambrinol, 57 dihydroambrinol (III), 103 dihydrobenzoxepinone (watermelon ketone), 15, 81 dihydro-β-ionone, 89, 99, 190–191 Dihydrocampholene alcohol, 51 Dihydrocarveol acetate, 65 dihydrocuminic aldehyde (Perilla), 11 dihydrocurzerenone, 107 Dihydrocyclol (norbornanol), 88 Dihydroeugenol, 65 Dihydrofarnesal, 238 Dihydrofloralate (methyl-thymyl-ether), 39 Dihydrofloriffone TD (trans-β-damascone), 125, 232, 234 dihydro-γ-ionone, 30 dihydrojasmone, 13, 40 dihydrolinalool oxide, 52 dihydrolivescone, 11 dihydromyrcenol, 12, 25, 38 Dihydronootkatol, 225 dihydronootkatone, 112 dihydroterpenyl, 4 Dimethyl benzylcarbinyl crotonate, 153 dimethyl cyclohexenylpentenone (DCHP) [Neogall], 46–47 Dimethyl cyclormol [4,7-methano-14-inden-5-ol-3a,4,5,6,7,7a-hexahydro- 2(03)6-dimethyl], 53 dimethyl heptenal (Melonal), 15 dimethyl octandiol (glycol de rose), 39, 116 Dimethyl octenone, 63 Dimethyl tricyclo (5.2.1.0)-2,6-decenyl methyl ether [Juniparome], 91 dimethylacetal of trans-2-nonynal, 19 Dimethyl-2,4-cyclohexene-3-methanol (Trivertanol), 74 dimethyl-cyclohexenylcarboxaldehyde (Triplal), 17, 39 dimethylheptanol (Dimetol), 12 Dimethyl-2,5-2-hexene-4-aldehyde (Nerenal), 65 dimethylhydroxyfuranone (Furaneol), 34, 105
282 Arcadi Boix Camps Index dimethyloctadienylacetal (Elintaal), 14 dimethyl-octandiol, 39 Dimethyloctenone (2,5-Dimethyl-2-octen-6-one), 113 dimetol, 38 Dimetol (dimethylheptanol), 12, 25 Dimuscan [1-(1,1,6,6-tetramethyl-1,2,3,6,7,8-hexahydro-asindacen-4-yl)- ethanone], 199 Dior Dior Chris 1947, 194 Dior Dior, 15, 115 Diorella, 15, 115, 128, 244 Diorissimo, 13, 236 Miss Dior, 2, 26 Miss Dior Chérie, 215 Diwan, 190 DKNY, 176, 223 DKNY Be Delicious, 234 DMA-Trans-2-Nonynal, 127 docecadienal, 17 dodecyl nitrile, 75 dogwood, 34 Doisy, Edward, 211 Dolce & Gabanna, 225 Dolce Vita, 92, 99, 182, 183, 190 Dominal (5,9-Dimethyl-4,9-decadienal), 60 Dominguez, Adolfo–Agua Fresca by, 95 Doremox (Tetrahydro-4-methyl-2-phenyl-2H-pyran), 119 dorinia, 81 Dossinia Givco, 120, 230 dry leaf herbals, 52–53, 150–153 Duende, 92 Dune for Men, 114, 228 Dupical, 14 Dynamone (cistus-labdanum oils), 9 Dynascone, 126, 255
E earthy agresticals, 86–87 earthy and fecal odors, 32 Eau Cendree, 14 Eau Fraîche de Leonard, 96 Eau Sauvage, 3, 13, 108, 115, 128, 145, 163, 193, 243
283 Perfumery: Techniques in Evolution
Eaux Fraîches, 15, 23, 26, 31, 47 Ebanol (3-Methyl-5-{2,2,3-trimethyl-3-cyclopenten-1-yl}-4penten-2- ol), 97, 182 Eden, 95 Effetal, 45 (E)-4-(2,2,cis-3-trans-6-tetramethyl-R-1-cyclohexyl)-3-buten-2-one [Myrrhone], 191–192 Egoiste, 182 Egoïste Platinum, 127 8-Acetoxy-3-methyl-9-methylene-tricyclo{5,2,1,0,2,6}-dec-3-ene (Basilex), 85, 149 8-Camphrene carbinol, 28 8-mercapto-p-menthenone (Corps Casis), 46 8-Methyl-1,5-dimethylbicyclo-(3,2,1)-octan-8-ol [Huminol M], 86 8-nonenals, 43 11-Oxahexadecanolide (Musk R-1), 10 Elintaal (dimethyloctadienylacetal or acetaldehyde), 14, 45 Elle by Yves Saint Laurent, 162 Elysium, 182 Emanol, 43 Emporio Armani pour elle, 249 Enrico Coveri, 183 Epi Hedione (Hedione HC, paradisol, kharismal, cepionate, super cepionate), 108, 115 epi methyl jasmonate (IV), 125 Epitone, 28 Escada Collection, 197 Escada Magnetism, 197 Escape for Men, 89, 92, 93, 182 Essenza by Zegna, 175, 176, 190 Estée Lauder, Pleasures by, 252 Estivalia, 48 etaspirene, 124 Eternity for Men, 92 Eternity for Women, 114 ether greens, 45 ethyl-alpha-dimethyl hydrocynamic aldehyde (Floralozone), 15 Ethyl Chrysanthemate, 25 ethyl cis-4-octenoate, 43 Ethyl citral, 111 Ethyl citral nitrile (Lemonile), 111 Ethyl cyclohexyl ethanol (Tonkarol), 61 ethyl decadieonate, 39 ethyl dianthilis, 106, 116
284 Arcadi Boix Camps Index ethyl dodecahydro trimethyl naphtho furan (Grisalva), 9, 32 Ethyl ethyl, α-cyclogeraniate (Givescone), 121 ethyl fenchol (Terrasol), 28, 86 Ethyl isoamylacetal acetaldehyde, 51 Ethyl laitone DA (4-Ethyl-cyclohexyl spiro-4-g butirolactone), 110 Ethyl lanalool, 114, 228 Ethyl levulinate, 73 ethyl maltol, 35 ethyl pentenoate, 24 Ethyl phenoxyacetate, 120, 242 Ethyl phenyl carbinol acetate, 70–71 ethyl phenylpropionate, 210 Ethyl Saffranate, 38 Ethyl safranate (Damascenone Cyclogeranate), 152 Ethyl 6-acetoxyhexanoate (Berryflor), 120–121 Ethyl 2-methypentenoate (Manzanate), 126–127 Ethyl 2-ethylhexanoate (Irotyl), 120 Ethyl 2-hydroxy-4-methoxy-6-methylbenzoate, 98, 186 ethyl 2-methyl-3-pentenoate (Fruitaleur), 250 ethyl, 2,6,6-trimethyl-2-cyclohexenyl carboxylate (Myrascone), 151 ethyl vanillin, 60 ethyl vanillin (I), 106 ethyl-α-cyclogeraniate (Myrascone), 151 Ethyl-β-cyclogeranate, 151 ethylcyclopentenolone, 35 Ethylene Brassylate, 10 ethylethylcapronate (Yrotil), 30 Ethyl-p-cresol, 69 eucalyptus, 154 Eugenol, 113 Euphoria, 162 Everlasting Flower, 24, 25 Evernyl, 8, 57 Exaltenone, 192 exaltia, 113 Exaltolide (cyclopentadecanolide), 9–10, 15 Exaltone (cyclopentadecanone), 9, 15 Exaltonene (Cyclopentadecenone), 101
F Fabron, Frances, 258 Façonnable, 92, 190
285 Perfumery: Techniques in Evolution
Fahrenheit, 246 Fambione (p-hydroxyphenyl-butanone), 15 Fantesal, 76 Farenal (trimethylundecylenic aldehyde), 17 Farnesene, 108 fecal and earthy odors, 32 Felvinone, 28 Femme by Rochas, 2 Fendi for Men, 183 Fenugreek, 64 Fidji, 128 Fidji by Laroche, 2, 10 [15-(1!a,2!b,3!b,5!a)]-2,6,6-trimethylspiro [bicyclo-[3.1.1]heptane-3,1’-[2]- cyclohexen]-4-one (Woolfwood), 96, 169–170 Filbertone G 1% in TEC- 5-Methyl-2-hepten-4-one, 248–249 Fiorucci Angel, 252 Firmaflore, 45 firsantal, 176 Firsantol [2-methyl-4-(2,2,3-trimethylcyclopent-3-enyl)-pent-4-en-1-ol], 97, 175–176 First Santos, 128 5-cyclohexadecenone (Ambretone), 102 5-ethyl-2-nonanol (alcohol NU), 128, 212 5,5-dimethyl-1,4,4a,5,6,7,8,8a-octahydro-1,4-methanonaphtolen-6-yl acetate (Sclarex), 150 5-hexyl-2-methylpyridine (Orange pyridine), 223–224 5,9-Dimethyl-4,9-decadienal (Dominal), 60 5,9-dimethyl-4,8-decadienal (geraldehyde), 88, 91 5,6-epoxy-2,6,10,10-Tetramethyl bicyclo (7,2,0)-undecane [Tobacarol], 94 5,6,7-Trimethyl octa-2,5-dien-4-one (Pomarose), 234–235 Fixambrene, 155 Fixateur 404 (methyl dodecahydro trimethyl naphtho furan), 9 Fixomusc, 9 Fleur d’Epice, 38 Fleuranil (3-(4-ethylphenyl)-2,2-dimethylpropanenitrile), 158 Fleursandol (3-Methyl-4-tricyclodec-4-en-8-ylidene butan-2-ol), 179–181 floral family, 4, 12–14, 38–42, 66–72, 113, 114–122, 228–248 floral fruits, 69–70, 122, 248 floral greens, 17–18, 44, 125–126 floral metallics, 41, 119 floral muguets, 70–71 floral super (4,8-dimethyl-4,9-decadienal), 88, 91
286 Arcadi Boix Camps Index floral-animals, 70 Floralate (2,4-Dimethyl-3-cyclohexene-1-methanyl acetate), 112 Floralozone (ethyl-alpha-dimethyl hydrocynamic aldehyde), 15 floramat, 116 Flore, 92 Florex [3-oxa-10-ethylidenetricyclo (6,2,1,0) undecan-4-one], 35 Florexaltric, 37 Florhydral (p-Isopropylphenyl-2-butanal), 117–118 Floridile (9,10-undecadien nitrile), 221–222 Florizia, 18 Florymoss, 242 Flower by Kenzo, 193 Folenox (isolongifolene epoxide), 28 Folial, 18 Folrosia, 67 Forenat (Styrallyl crotonate), 108 Forever Elizabeth from Elizabeth Arden, 195 formaldehyde-ethylcyclododecylacetal (Boisambrene Forte), 27 formaldehyde-methyl-cyclododecylacetal (Boisambrene), 27 formate, 16, 41 formyltricyclodecane (Vertral) (II), 75, 125 Fougére Royal by Houbigant, 2, 3 4-cyclo octenyl acetate, 65 4-Cyclohexyl-2-Methyl-2-butenol (Coranol), 26, 114, 228–229 4-Cyclohexyl-4-methyl-2-pentanone (Vetysertone and Vetyval), 30 4-cycloocten-1-yl methyl-4-carbonate [Violiff (IFF)], 246–247 4,8-dimethyl-4,9-decadienal (floral super), 88, 91 4-Ethylbuten-4-olide (Dehydrotonkalide), 110 4-Ethyl-cyclohexyl spiro-4-g butirolactone (Ethyl laitone DA), 110 4-Ethyl-4-methyl A Valerolactone (Costaulon), 59 4-Ethyloctanoic acid (Nolinac), 59, 104 4,5-Decamethylene oxazole (Sclarene), 85 4,5-dimethyl-3-hydroxy-2,5-dihydrofuran-2-one (Sotolone), 214–215 4,5,7,9-octahydro-2,2,5,8,8,9-hexamethylmethanoazulene-[5,6]-1,3-dioxole (Ambrocenide), 158, 174, 205–208 4-Formyl-7,7,9-trimethyl bicyclononene (junipal), 91 4,4-Methyl-3-cyclohexenyl pentenal (Corps popinal), 118 4,4,6-Trimethyl-2-benzyl (1,3) dioxane [Reseda Body], 72 4-Hydroxy-5-methyl-3(2H)-furanone, 213 4-isopropyl-2-cyclohexenone (Crypton), 66 4-Methyl-cyclohexyl spiro-4-g butirolactone (Methyl laitone), 110 4-Methyl-3-decen-5-ol (Undecavertol), 127
287 Perfumery: Techniques in Evolution
4-methyl-8-methylenetricyclo-[3.3.3]-decan-2-ol (Prismantol), 162–163 4-Methyl-2-pentanol crotonate (Frutinat), 43 4-Methyl-phenoxy ethanol, 68 4-Methyl-4-phenyl-2-pentanol acetate (Corps 53), 30 4-Methyl-tricyclo (6,2,1,0) undecan-5-one [Plicatone], 25 4-Methyl-2-dodecen nitrile, 223 4-Oxo-β-ionone, 62 4-Oxo-β-ionyl acetate, 63 4-Pentenophenone (Lavonax), 108 4,7-methano-14-inden-5-ol-3a,4,5,6,7,7a-hexahydro-2(03)6-dimethyl [Dimethyl cyclormol], 53 14,15-Bisnor Labdan,8-alpha,13,13,20-dioxide (Ambraketal), 33 4-terbutyl-2,6-dimethylacetophenone (Orinox), 213 4-(3-Methyl-2-butenyl)-4,7,7-trimethylbicyclo-[4,1,0] heptan-3-one (Precarone), 120, 242 4-[2,4,6-Trimethyl-3-cyclohexenyl]-3-buten-2-one (Iritone), 100 4-(2,6,6-trimethyl-1,3-cyclohexadienyl)-3,buten-4-one [β-Damascenone], 15, 16, 41, 43, 231–232 4-Vinyl guaiacol, 60 Fragile, 236 Frambinon Cryst, 15, 43 Frambinon methylether (p-methoxyphenyl butanone), 15, 43 frankincense, 107 Frater, Georg, 165, 167 Freedom by Tommy Hilfiger, 193 Frescolat (1-Methyl lactate), 88 Frescyle (3-methyldodecyl nitrile), 64 fresh florals, 114–115, 228–229 Freskomenthe (2-Secbutyl cyclohexanone), 88 Fruitaleur (ethyl 2-methyl-3-pentenoate), 250 fruity florals, 41, 120–121, 248, 249–251 fruity greens, 19, 46, 126–127, 265–267 fruity nutty, 248–249 fruity products, 4, 14–15, 43, 73, 122 Frutinat (4-Methyl-2-pentanol crotonate), 43 Frutonile (2-Methyl decyl nitrile), 69 furadien-6-one, 108 furan ketones, 108 Furaneol (dimethylhydroxyfuranone), 34, 105 furans, 68, 107 Furfuryl acetone, 66
288 Arcadi Boix Camps Index
G Galaxolide, 10 Galbania, 47 Galbaniff [1-(3,3-dimethylcyclohexyl-1)-4-penten-1-one (dihydro dynascone)], 257–258 Galbanolene (1,3,5-undecatriene), 18, 75 Galbanum, 255 galbanum family, 255–259 Galbex, 47 Galbia, 18 gamma-hepta, 11 gamma-homocyclogeraniol, 32, 33 gamma-undecapyridine, 45 Gardamide (N-Methyl-N-phenyl-2-methyl butyramide), 126 γ-Damascone [1-(2,2-dimethyl-6-methylenecyclohexyl)-2-buten-1-one], 232 Genistafol (beta phenylethyl methyl ether), 45 Genistafol (phenylethyl methyl ether), 68 Gentleman by Givenchy, 32 Georgywood (1,2,8,8-tetramethyl octahydronaphtalen-2-yl ethanone), 165–167 Geosmin [2,6-Dimethylbicyclo (64.4.06) decan-1-ol], 32, 33 geraldehyde (5,9-dimethyl-4,8-decadienal), 88, 91 geranic acid, 5, 24 Geranic oxide (2,2,6-Trimethyl-6-vinyl-tetrahydropyrano), 23 geraniol, 233 Geranodyle [1-hydroxy-2-(1-hydroxyethyl)-5-methylcyclohexane], 240–241 geranyl crotonate, 240 geranyl nitrile, 5 geranyl oxyacetaldehydes, 6 geranyles, 42 Gerlain, Vetiver by, 128 γ-heptalactone, 109 γ-hexalactone(I), 109 Gio, 95, 183 Givenchy Into the Blue, 194 Gentleman, 32 Givenchy III, 26 Insensé de Givenchy, 96 Organza, 232 So de Givenchy, 194 Ungaro for Men and Gentlemen, 86 Givescone (Ethyl ethyl, α-cyclogeraniate), 121
289 Perfumery: Techniques in Evolution
Givmenthe (2-Cyclohexyl cyclohexanone), 88 Globanone (cyclohexadecen-8-one), 197–198 Globe by Rochas, 99 glycol de rose (dimethyl octandiol), 39, 116 glycolate, 255 Glycolierral (Maceol gylceryl acetal), 74 Glycomel [Oxirane carboxylic acid, 3/bicyclic (2,2,1) hept-5-en-2-yl) 3-methyl, methyl ether], 64 Good Life by Davidoff, 118, 236 grapefruit citrics, 63, 112–113, 224–226 grassy greens, 16–17, 44, 125 green florals, 120, 242 Green Mandarine, 37 Greenal (2,5,6-Trimethyl-4-heptenal), 88 Greenness of Malaysia, 70 Greenoxane, 45 greens family, 4, 16–19, 44–47, 73–76, 125–128, 260–265 green-violet florals, 245–248 Gres, Cabochad by, 2 Grisalva (ethyl dodecahydro trimethyl naphtho furan), 9, 32 Grisambrene (cistus-labdanum oils), 9 Grisambria (cistus-labdanum oils), 9, 32 guaiacol, 106 Guerlain Jicky, 2 Mitsouko, 2
H Habanita by Molinard, 2 Habanolide (Cyclopentadecenolide), 101 Halston, 66 Hanae Mori for Ladies, 106 Hederyl (2,[2-Methyl-3-pentenyl]-5-ethylpyridine), 126 Hedione HC, paradisol, kharismal, cepionate, super cepionate (Epi Hedione), 108, 115 Hedione (methyl-dihydrojasmonate), 13, 15, 39, 43, 233 Helional, 15, 43 Helioptropyl acetone (Cassione), 72 heliotrope-mimosa-cassia florals, 71–72 Helvetolide, 190 Helvetolide [(+) (1’R,4S)-4-(3’,3’-dimethyl-1-cyclohexyl-2,2-dimethyl-3- oxapentyl propionate)], 102, 192–193
290 Arcadi Boix Camps Index
Herbac (1-Acetyl-3,3-dimethylcyclohexane), 91 Herbacet No. 1 (1-Ethynyl-cyclohexanyl acetate), 24 herbal florals, 12, 38, 66 herbal fruity, 150–153 herbal greens, 127–128 herbal-honey-woody, 155 herbal-lavendar-camphoraceous agresticals, 50–51 herbal-lavender agresticals, 4, 24, 84–86, 147–149 herbals, dry leaf, 52–53 Herbanate, 85–86 Herbane (Butanal hexyleneglycol acetal), 127 Herbate, 53 Herbavert (3,3,5-Trimethylcyclohexyl ethyl ether), 128 Herboxane (Pentanal hexyleneglycol acetal), 50, 127 Hererra, Carolina CHHC, 162 Heridón, 23 Heritage, 96, 117, 128 Hermès, Caleche by, 2 Herrera, Carolina Chic for Men, 179 Herrera for Men, 83, 92, 94, 100, 107, 128, 183 hexa hydrocoumarin, 10 Hexadecanolide, 34 Hexanal hexyleneglycolacetal (Cyclonemal), 127 Hexenyl oxanate (Cis-3-hexenyl acetoacetate), 125 Hexenyl Oxanate (IV), 125 Hexyl crotonate, 74 hexyl salicylate, 38 hexyl tiglate, 262–263 Hexylate, 51 Hibiscolide (12-Oxahexadecanolide), 10 Higher Energy, 195 Hindinol, 183–185 Histidal (2-Methyl-3-cyclohexecarboxaldehyde glycerol acetal), 87 Homo ambrinol (2,2,6,8-Tetramethyl-2-octalinol), 122 homo cyclo geraniol, 9 homocyclogeranyl chloride, 32, 33 Homofuronol [2-ethyl-4-hydroxy-5-methyl-2(2H)-furanone], 214 Homomenthenal, 76 honey, 107 Horizon, 92
291 Perfumery: Techniques in Evolution
Houbigant, Fougére Royal by, 2 Huminol M [8-Methyl-1,5-dimethylbicyclo-(3,2,1)-octan-8-ol], 86 Hyacinth Body, 45 Hyacinth Body no 3, 45 Hyacinthia, 18 hydratropic aldehyde, 17 Hydrocitronitrile (3-methyl-5-phenyl-2-pentan nitrile), 230 Hydroxyambran (2-{cyclododecyl}-propan-1-ol), 94–95, 158, 167–168 hydroxycitronellal, 42
I igoflor 2-(3-cyclo-2,1,0-decane) spirotetrahydrofuranel, 56 Igolen, George, 221 Incentsia, 45 Indian Wood, 32 Indianol, 174 Indisan, 29 Indonal, 41 Innocence by Chloe, 239 Insensé de Givenchy, 96 Into the Blue by Givenchy, 194, 197 Introspective, 85 ionones, 233 Iranal, 26 Iritone (4-[2,4,6-Trimethyl-3-cyclohexenyl]-3-buten-2-one), 100 Irival, 119–120 Irivone, 186 Irone V, 16 irones, 15, 16, 44 Ironyl Butyl-3,4-dimethyl-3-OH-5-[2,6,6-Trimethyl-2- cyclohexenyl]-4- pentenoate), 99–100 Irotyl (Ethyl 2-ethylhexanoate), 120 Iso E Super (octahydrotetramethylnaphthalene), 7, 27, 233 isoaceate, 147 isoamylic acid, 89 Isobornyl methyl ether, 50 Isobutavan (Vanillyl isobutyrate), 106 Isobutyl benzyl carbinol, 74 isobutylmethoxypyrazine, 18, 44 isobutylphenylethylcarbinyl acetate (Corps Rhubarbe), 18 isobutyrate, 16 isobutyrate of Verdyl, 41
292 Arcadi Boix Camps Index
Isocyclemone E, 27 Isocyclocitral (trimethylcyclohexenylcarboxaldehyde), 17 Isocyclogeraniol (Trimethylcyclohexenemethanol), 120 Isodamascone [1-(2,4,4-trimethylcyclohex-1-(2)-enyl-1)-2-buten-1-one], 41, 235 isodamasconel, 15 Isofreshal Nitrate, 221 isohexylmethoxypyrazine, 44–45 isojasmone, 116 isojasmone CNC, 116 isolongifolanile acetate, 27 isolongifolanone, 7, 27 isolongifolanyl acetate, 7 isolongifolene epoxide (Folenox), 28 Isomint, 87, 150 Isomuscone (cyclohexadecanone), 194 Isononyl nitrile, 89 Isopentyrate (1,3-Dimethyl-3-butenyl isobutyrate), 24 Isophorone (3,3,5-trimethyl-2-cyclohexen-1one), 108 Isophoryl acetate, 62 Isopirene [2,6,9,10-Tetramethyl-1-oxaspiro (4,5)-3,6 decadiene], 39, 64 Isopropyl methyl thiazole, 125 isopropyl safranate, 152 isopropylmethoxypyrazine, 44 Isospirene (2,6,9,10-Tetramethyl-1-oxaspiro-{4,5}-deca-3,6-diene), 124 Isotagetone (2,7-Dimethyl oct-5-en-4-one), 73 Issey Miyaki, 99, 128, 228
J Jacinthaflor (1,3-dioxolane, 2-methyl-4-phenyl), 212–213 J’adore, 236 Jascitile (3-Methyl octyl nitrile), 59 Jasmambrette, 28, 31 Jasmin Etoile Civco, 106 jasmine florals, 13, 39–41, 68–69, 115–116, 242–245 Jasminoflor (methyl n-acetyl antranilate), 68 jasmo lactone, 13 Jasmobois, 28 Jasmolactone, 40 jasmonyl, 114 Jasmospezia, 40 Javanol [methyl -2-(1,2,2-trimethylbicyclohexyl)-methyl cyclopropyl methanol], 177–179
293 Perfumery: Techniques in Evolution
Jazz, 99 Je reviens by Worth, 2 Jean Louis Scherrer, 128 Jean Marc Sinan, 121 Jessate, 13 Jicky by Guerlain, 2 Joop, 220 Joy by Jean Patou, 68, 105 junipal (4-Formyl-7,7,9-trimethyl bicyclononene), 91 Juniparome [Dimethyl tricyclo (5.2.1.0)-2,6-decenyl methyl ether], 91 Juniper berry agresticals, 91
K Karanal (2,{2,4-Dimethylcyclohex-3-ene-1-yl}-5-methyl-5-{1-methylpropyl}), 95 Karotin, 51 Kenzo Flower, 193 Kenzo for Men, 95 Kenzo le monde est beau, 154, 252 L’Eau par Kenzo, 128 Kerfoline, 75 Ketambria, 34 Kewra absolute, 45 Khusimic Acid, 169 khusimone, 30 Khusinyl (2,4-Dimethyl 4-penylpentane nitrile), 225 Klausenone, 196–197 Klein, Calvin–Truth for Men by, 178, 179, 257 Koavone, 57 Kohinool (3,4,5,6,6-Pentamethylheptanol-2 and isomers), 100 Krishnanol, 55–56 Krishnanone, 56, 177–178
L Labdacore, 103 Labdanax, 35 Labienone (2,4,4,7-Tetramethylnonan-6,8-dien-3-one), 121, 248 Labienoxime, 252–253 Labienoxime DA (2,4,4,7-Tetramethyl-6,8-nonadien-3-one oxime), 124 Lacoste, 224 lactones, 39, 64, 123
294 Arcadi Boix Camps Index
Laevo Bacdanol, 182 laevo 2-ethyl-4-(2,2,3-trimethylcyclopent-3-enyl-1)-2-butenol [Levosandol], 182 Laevo-cetalox, 210 Laevo-Muscone, 199–201 L’Air Du Temps, 38 Laitone (7-Isopropyl-1-oxaspiro [4,5] nonan-2-one), 109 Lambert, Michel, 258 Lancôme Miracle, 143 Ô de Lancôme, 128 Ô de Lancôme for Men, 92, 114, 228 Lanvin Arpége, 2 Oxygène, 143, 162, 170, 176, 193, 252 Laroche, Fidji by, 2 Lauren, Ralph Lauren, 66 Polo, 8 Polo Export Extreme, 143 lauric aldehyde, 6 lavandulol, 4, 23 lavandulyl acetate, 4 Lavonax (4-Pentenophenone), 108 leaf acetal, 17 leaf alcohol acetal, 17 leathery scents, 128 L’Eau d’Eden, 114, 128, 228 L’eau d’Issey for Ladies, 190 L’Eau par Kenzo, 128 Leger, Paul, 258 leguminous-citronellic notes agrestical, 4–5, 24 Lemonenal Supra (Cis-8-tetradecenal), 222–223 Lemonile (Ethyl citral nitrile), 111 Lenor, 99 Lever, Vikä cologne by, 45 Levosandol [laevo 2-ethyl-4-(2,2,3-trimethylcyclopent-3-enyl-1)-2-butenol], 182 lichenous notes, 8, 98–99, 186 licorous, 124 Liffarome (cis 3-hexenylmethylcarbonate), 44 Light Blue by Dolce & Gabanna, 198, 257 Lilial, 14, 233
295 Perfumery: Techniques in Evolution lily of the valley florals, 14, 117–119, 236–239 limbanol, 93 Limbanol [(trans-Methyl Nor Limbanol) 1-(2,2,3,6-Tetramethyl-1-cyclohexyl)-3- hexanol], 158–159 lime citrics, 112 Lime dienes DA, 112 Lime oxide (2,2,6-Trimethyl-2-vinyl-tetrahydropyrane), 23, 112 linalol, 38 linalol oxide, 4 livescone, 11 Lolita Lempicka, 190 L’Origan by Coty, 2 Lovely by Sarah Jessica Parker, 201 lsobutylphenylethylcarbinyl acetate (Corps Rhubarbe), 18 Lyral, 14 Lyrisal (2,5,7,7-Tetramethyloctanal), 118 Lysorangia, 26
M Ma griffe by Carven, 2 Macassar by Rochas, 22 Maceal, 26, 42 Maceol gylceryl acetal (Glycolierral), 74 Macis, 190 macrocyclic musks, 44 Madame Rochas, 83 Mademoiselle Coco, 144, 161 Maderan, 54 Maderol, 7 Madranol [3-Methyl-4-(2,2,6-trimethylcyclohexyl)-butan-2-ol], 168–169 Madrox (methyl cyclododecyl methyl ether), 6 Magnolan (2,4-Dimethyl-5,6-indanyldioxane), 117 magnolia florals, 117 Mahagonate, 7 Majantol, 118 maltol, 35 maltyl isobutyrate, 35 maltyl propionate, 35 Mandaril (3,12-Tridecadien nitrile), 111–112 mandarin aldehyde, 11, 26 mandarin/tangerine citrics, 111–112 Maniarmani, 143
296 Arcadi Boix Camps Index
Manzanate (Ethyl 2-methypentenoate), 126–127 Marabase, 46 Maracuyá, 46 Marbert Men, 93, 97, 183 marine and algoid odors, 32 marine-resinous greens, 45–46 Maritima, 75 Marjalia, 18 Marjoliane, 18 marketing of perfumery, 47–48 Mate Absolute, 22 matyl isobutyrate, 105 Maurin, Maurice, 81 Mayol (cis-dihydro shiseol), 117 Mayol [cis-4-(1-Methylethyl)cyclohexanemethanol], 14 MCP acetate [2-Methyl-3-(-2-methyl-5-isopropenyl-cyclopentenyl) propyl acetate], 31, 44, 99 Mediterranis, 18 Mefranal (3-Methyl-5-phenylpentanal), 118 Megastigmadienone, 218 Melol, 43 melon fruity products, 14–15, 43, 122, 251–252 Melonal (dimethyl heptenal), 15 Melozone (Octahydro-4, 7-methano-1H-indenecarboxal-dehyde), 126 menthanyl acetates, 4, 23 Meoparf (mixture of 6-ethyl-3-methyloct-6-en-1-ol and 6-ethyl-3-methylocte-5- en-1-ol), 236–237 metallic greens, 18, 44–45, 126 metalllic florals, 69 metalllic fruity scents, 255–259 Methoxymelonal (6-Methoxy-2,6-dimethylheptanal), 122 methyl cedryl ketone (Vertofix/Vertofix Coeur), 6, 27 Methyl chamomile (n-Buytl 2-methyl valerianate), 51 methyl cis-4-octenoate, 43 Methyl cyclocitron, 52 methyl cyclododecyl methyl ether (Madrox), 6 Methyl cyclogeraniate (methyl-β-cyclogeraniate), 121, 151 Methyl cyclohexyl ethanol, 61 methyl dioxaspiro undecane (Hersage), 4, 23 methyl dodecahydro trimethyl naphtho furan (Ambrox or Ambroxan, Fixateur 404), 8, 32 methyl eugenol, 113
297 Perfumery: Techniques in Evolution methyl 5-methylsalycilate (Petunial), 213 methyl geraniate, 39 methyl heptincarbonate, 19 Methyl hexyl acetaldehyde, 51 methyl isohexyl carbinyl acetate, 75 methyl jasmonate, 40–41, 43 Methyl laitone (4-Methyl-cyclohexyl spiro-4-g butirolactone), 110 methyl n-acetyl antranilate (Jasminoflor), 68 Methyl nicotinate, 61 Methyl Nonylenate, 127 methyl octa-4,7-dienoate (Anapear), 249–250 methyl octincarbonate, 19 Methyl Pamplemousse, 112, 178, 224 methyl pentyrate, 89, 150 methyl phenylpropionate, 210 Methyl Sandeflor, 55 Methyl 3-methyl resorcylate (Seamoss), 98 methyl 3-nonenoate, 265 Methyl tuberate or tuberolide (2-Methyl-1,4-nonalactone), 43 methyl 2-hexenoate (carbavert), 89 Methyl 2-methylpentenoate, 51 methyl -2-(1,2,2-trimethylbicyclohexyl)-methyl cyclopropyl methanol [Javanol], 177–179 Methyl vetivate, 30, 170–171 methyl-α-ionone glycidate, 192 methyl-β-cyclogeraniate (Methyl cyclogeraniate), 121, 151 methyl-cis-4-octonate, 43 methylcyclopentadecanone (Muscone), 9, 15, 105 Methylcyclopentadecenone (Muscenone δ), 101 methylcyclopentenolone, 34 methylcyclopentenyl acetate (Cyclopidene), 41 Methyl-δ-cyclogeranate (Deltanate), 152–153 methyl-dihydrojasmonate (Hedione), 13, 15, 39, 43 methyl-γ-cyclogeranate (Romascone), 151–152 methylionones(I), 99, 233 methylpentenyl isobutyrate, 24 Methylpentenyle salicylate, 118 methyl-pentyl-acetic (MPA) aldehyde, 76 methyl-propyl oxathian, 39 methylthiohexenol, 46 methyl-thymyl-ether (Dihydrofloralate), 39 Mettambrate (3-Secbutyl cyclohexylacetate), 124
298 Arcadi Boix Camps Index miel blanche, 107 miel oliffac, 107 Mimoril (2,4-Hexadienol), 42 minty agresticals, 87–88 Miracle by Lancôme, 143, 193 miraldyl acetate, 38 Miss Dior by Dior, 2, 26 Miss Dior Chérie, 215 Mitsouko by Guerlain, 2 Molinard, Habanita by, 2 Montana for ladies, 128 Montaverdi (Cis-3-Hexenyl Cyclopropionate), 260 Moore, Karl, 211 Morellone (Benzyl dipropylketone), 108 Moschus Lacton (cyclohexadecen-7-olide), 10 Moskene, 34 Mossenate (2-ethylbenzoxazole), 216 Mousse Metra, 8 Moxalone (1a,3,3,4,6,6-hexamethyl-1a,2,3,4,5,6,7,7a-octahydro-1-oxacyclopropa- β-naphatlene), 196–197 MPA (methyl-pentyl-acetic) aldehyde, 76 Mugetanol (1-4-{isopropylcyclohexyl}-ethanol), 118 Mugler, Thierry–Cologne by, 170 Mugovert, 71, 76 Muguesia (3-methyl-4-phenyl-2-butanol), 238–239 Muguet alcohol, 71 Muguet alcohol acetate, 71 muguet florals, 14, 42 Muguetinol (3,6-Dimethyl-1,6-octadienol), 237–238 Muguettal, 26 Muguol (allo ocimenol), 12, 38 Mumtaz, 176 Muscacide, 59 Muscalone, 102 Muscambrol, 32 Muscambrol 850, 59 Muscarome, 32 Muscenone δ (Methylcyclopentadecenone), 101 Muscogene, 34 Muscone (methylcyclopentadecanone), 9, 15, 34, 105 Musk Alpha, 34 musk chemicals, 9–10, 32, 34, 100–102, 192–203
299 Perfumery: Techniques in Evolution
Musk D.T.I., 10 Musk ether, 58 Musk Fruitée 10952-3/D, 151–152 Musk R-1 (11-Oxahexadecanolide), 10 Muskalia, 34 Muskia, 34 Muskione, 34 myrac aldehyde, 6 myradyl acetate, 117 Myrascone (ethyl, 2,6,6-trimethyl-2-cyclohexenyl carboxylate or ethyl-α- cyclogeraniate), 150–151 myrcenile acetates, 4, 23 myrcenol, 12, 38 Myristic Nitrile, 75 myrrh, 107 Myrrhone [(E)-4-(2,2,cis-3-trans-6-tetramethyl-R-1-cyclohexyl)-3-buten-2-one], 191–192 Myrtenal, 38 myrtenol, 31 Mysoral [2-methyl-4-(2,2,3-trimethylcyclopent-3-enyl)-pent-4-en-1-al], 176–177 Mysoran, 174 Mysore sandalwood, 28
N n-amylic esters of pentenoic acid, 89 Narcisse ketone (p-Cresyl ethylcarbonate), 104–105 narcissus-hyacinth florals, 72 Navarro, Eugenia, 85 n-Buytl 2-methyl valerianate (Methyl chamomile), 51 n-Decyl nitrile, 60 ndianol, 55 Nebulone (3,3,4,5-Pentamethyl-11,13-dioxatricyclo-[7,4,0,0-{2,6}]-tridec-2/6-ene), 201–202 nectarol, 107 Nectaryl (2-[p-Mehthenyl-9]-cyclopentanone), 43, 73 Neobutenone alpha [mainly a-1-(5,5-dimethyl-1-cyclohexenyl)-4-penten-1-one], 255–257 Neocaspirene (10-Isopropyl-2,7-dimethyl-1-oxaspiro-[4,5]-deca-3,6-diene), 123–124 Neogall [DCHP (dimethyl cyclohexenylpentenone)], 46–47 Neomusk, 34 neoproxen, 90
300 Arcadi Boix Camps Index
Nerenal (Dimethyl-2,5-2-hexene-4-aldehyde), 65 nerol oxide, 12 neroli florals, 39 Nerone, 39 New West for ladies, 119 New West for Men, 183 Night for Her, Armani, 194 9-decenal, 157 9-epi-Ambrox, 210 9-ethylidone-3-oxatricyclic (6,2,1,022) undecane [Rhubaflor], 56, 172 9,10-undecadien nitrile (Floridile), 221–222 Nirvanol [dextro 3,3-dimethyl-5-(2,2,3-trimethylcyclopent-3-enyl-1)-pent-4- enol-1], 174–175 Nirvanolide (13-methyloxacyclopentadec-10-en-2-one), 195 Nitrile nonadienyl (Violet nitrile), 72 N-Methyl-N-phenyl-2-methyl butyramide (Gardamide), 126 N-N-diethyl-2-ethylhexanamide, 67, 241–242 noble ketones of vetyver, 30 n-Octyl nitrile, 59 Nolinac (4-Ethyloctanoic acid), 59, 104 Nonadyl (6,8-Dimethyl-2-nonanol), 127 Nonadyl (III), 127 Nonyl nitrile, 26 Nootkatol, 225 Nootkatone, 11 Nootkatyl acetate, 225–226 nopyl acetates, 4 nor limbanol (2,2,6-Trimethyl-a-propyl-cyclohexane propanol), 93, 160–161 norbornanol (Dihydrocyclol), 88 Nordidedhydroambrox, 208 novenal (II) ziblenia, 122 Novolide, 102, 199 Novorosan (citronellyl ethyl ether), 37 n-Tridecanal, 60 Nu by Yves Saint Laurent, 190, 193 Nuits Indiennes, 182
O Ô de Lancôme, 128 Ô de Lancôme for Men, 92 ocimene-epoxide, 17, 18 ocimenol, 38
301 Perfumery: Techniques in Evolution
Octahydro-4, 7-methano-1H-indenecarboxal-dehyde (Melozone)), 126 octahydrocoumarin, 10 octahydroeugenol (Tarragol), 113, 227–228 octahydrotetramethylnaphthalene (Iso E Super), 7 octalactones, 11 Octalinol (2,2,6,8-Tetramethyl-2-octalinol), 122, 252 octen-1-ol-3, 4 octen-1-ol-3 acetate, 4 octyles, 42 ocymene epoxyde, 127 ocymenile acetates, 4, 23 okoumal, 93–94 omega hydroxymethyl longifolene, 28 O-methoxy cinnamico aldehyde, 65 Oncidal (trimethylundecadienal), 14, 43 1a,3,3,4,6,6-hexamethyl-1a,2,3,4,5,6,7,7a-octahydro-1-oxacyclopropa-β- naphatlene (Moxalone), 196–197 1-acetyl-3,3-dimethylcyclohexane (Herbac), 91 1-acetyl-3,3-dimethyl-1-cyclohexene (Artemone), 90 1-Allyl-2,2,7,7-tetramethylcycloheptanol (Chinchilol), 86 1-Cyclohexyl ethyl crotonate (Datilat), 121 1-Ethynyl-cyclohexanyl acetate (Herbacet No. 1), 24 1,4-Dimethoxy-2-terbutyl benzene (Vetylbois), 96 1,4-dioxa-cyclohexadecane-5,16,dione (Cyclo ethylene dodecandioate or Arrova 16), 58 1-4-{isopropylcyclohexyl}-ethanol (Mugetanol), 118 1-hydroxy-2-(1-hydroxyethyl)-5-methylcyclohexane [Geranodyle (Givaudan)], 240–241 1-Methoxy indane (Phloralid), 70 1-Methyl lactate (Frescolat), 88 1-methyl-4-(4-methyl-3-pentenyl)-3-cyclohexenecarbaldehyde [Precyclemone B], 69, 92 1-(1-acetoxyethyl-1)-3,3-dimethylcycloxane [Rosamusk], 190 1,1,5,5-tetramethyl hexahydro spiro {1,3-dioxolane-2,8-(5H)-[2H-2,4a]-methano naphthalene} (Ysamber K), 163–164 1-(1,1,6,6-tetramethyl-1,2,3,6,7,8-hexahydro-asindacen-4-yl)-ethanone [Dimuscan], 199 1-(1,2,3,4-tetrahydro-4,4-dimethyl-1-naphtalenyl)-propan-1-one [Tetrascone], 217 1-Oxaspiro (4,7) dodecane [Oxyvet], 58 (+) (1’R,4S)-4-(3’,3’-dimethyl-1-cyclohexyl-2,2-dimethyl-3-oxapentyl propionate) [Helvetolide], 192–193
302 Arcadi Boix Camps Index
(1R,4S)-3-p-menthanone oxime [Rosoxime], 102, 240 1,7,7-trimethyl bicyclo (4,4,0) decyl-3-acetate (Polywood), 28 1,7,7-trimethyl-2’-(isopropyl)-spiro-(bicycloheptane)-2,4’-{1,3}-dioxane [Belambre], 158, 209–210 (1S,1’R)-1-[3’,3’-domethyl-1-cyclohexyl)-ethoxycarbonyl]-methyl propionate [Romandolide], 195–196 1-spiro-[4.5]-dec-7-en-7-yl-4-penten-1-one (Spirogalbanone), 258–259 1,3-Dimethyl-3-butenyl isobutyrate (Isopentyrate), 24 1,3-dioxolane, 2-methyl-4-phenyl (Jacinthaflor), 212–213 1,3,5-undecatriene (Galbanolene), 18, 75 1,3-oxathian-2-methyl-2-propyl (Oxane), 46 1-(3,3-dimethylcyclohexyl-1)-4-penten-1-one (dihydro dynascone) [Galbaniff], 257–258 1,3-undecadien-5-yne [Violettyne MIP (Firmenich)], 245–246 1,2,8,8-tetramethyl octahydronaphtalen-2-yl ethanone (Georgywood), 165–167 1-(2,4,4-trimethylcyclohex-1-(2)-enyl-1)-2-buten-1-one [Isodamascone], 4, 41, 235 1-(2,6,6-trimethyl-2-cyclohexen-1-yl)-2-buten-1-one [α-Damascone], 15, 19, 41, 43, 81, 232–233 1-(2,2-dimethyl-6-methylenecyclohexyl)-2-buten-1-one [γ-Damascone], 232 1-(2,2,6-trimethyl-2-cyclohexen-1-yl)-2-buten-1-one [β-Damascone], 15, 36, 41, 43, 81, 232 Opalal (7-dipropyl-8,8-dimethyl-6,10-dioxaspiro-[4.5]-decane), 148–149 Opium by Yves Saint-Laurent, 28, 67, 74, 143, 183 oral woody orris and violet florals, 119–120 Orange pyridine (5-hexyl-2-methylpyridine), 223–224 Orangeox, 222 Orcinyl No. 3, 57 Organza by Givenchy, 232 Orinox (4-terbutyl-2,6-dimethylacetophenone), 213 Orivone (p-tertiary amyl cyclohexanone), 30 Oscar de la Renta, 10, 65 o-Terbutylcyclohexyloxybutanol-2 (Amber core), 96 o-Terbutyl-4-methyl-cyclohexanol (Rootanol), 86 Otkatone (I), 112 Ourtivert, 18, 44, 75 Oxadrane, 96 Oxalide (10-Oxadecanolide), 10 Oxambria, 32 Oxambrol, 32 Oxane (1,3-oxathian-2-methyl-2-propyl), 46 Oxaspirane, 23
303 Perfumery: Techniques in Evolution
Oxirane carboxylic acid, 3/bicyclic (2,2,1) hept-5-en-2-yl) 3-methyl, methyl ether [Glycomel], 64 Oxo-α-ionyl isobutyrate, 218–219 oxo-damascone, 70, 108 oxo-edulan(III), 108 Oxophorone (I) (2,2,6-trimethyl cyclohex-5-en-1,4-dione), 108 Oxophoryl, 62 Oxo-Theaspirane (3-Theaspirone), 62, 109 oxyacetaldehydes, 42 Oxygène by Lanvin, 143, 162, 170, 176, 193, 252 Oxyoctaline formate, 54 Oxyser (vetyverone), 30 Oxysesquine, 53 Oxyvet [1-Oxaspiro (4,7) dodecane], 58 Ozofleur (cis-4-tertiary pentylcyclohexyl ethyl ether), 157–158 ozonic family, 92, 157–158
P – Q Paco Rabanne, 27, 48 Palisandin (cyclododecyl methyl ether), 6, 27 palmarosa florals, 120 Pamplefleur (IFF), 224 Pamplenol, 56 Pamplenol C (3-Oxa-4,4,8,9-tetramethylbicyclo [4,4,0]-dece-7-ene and isomers), 113 Pampleune Aqua allegoria, 252 Pamplovert, 224 Pandanol (beta phenylethyl methyl ether), 45 Pandora for Men, 220 p-Anisyl Phenylacetate, 107 Paradisamide, 224–225 Paradisone [(+)-cis-(1R,2S) methyl dihydrojasmonate], 242–245 Paris, 128 Parker, Sarah Jessica–Lovely by, 201 parmantheme, 19 Parmanyl (Symrise) [3-(cis-3-hexenyloxy)-propane nitrile], 245 Passifloran (3-Acetyl thio hexyl acetate), 266–267 Patchomint (3,3-Dimethyl-2-norbornane-2-ethanol), 88 Patchoulac (Phenyl cyclopropanoic acid), 70 Patchouli epoxide, 7, 27 patchouli woody chemicals, 53 Patchoulol 100%, 161–162
304 Arcadi Boix Camps Index
Patchouly, 42, 92 Patinol, 41 Patou, Jean–Joy by, 68 p-Chloroacetophenone, 72 p-Cresol, 41 p-Cresyl crotonate, 105 p-Cresyl ethylcarbonate (Narcisse ketone), 104–105 p-Cresyl isobutyrate, 41 p-Cresyl isovalerate, 104 p-Cresyl isovalerianate, 41 p-Cyclo hexyl cyclo hexanone (Tricyclo hexanone P.), 65 p-Cyclohexyl cyclo hexanone (Bicyclohexanone P), 61 peachy fruits, 125 pear fruity aromatics, 249–251 Pearlate (cis-3-octenyl propionate), 264 Peionile (2-Cyclohexylidene-2-phenylacetonitrile), 119 Pelargonic acid, 5, 51 Pellegrino, Roger, 258 pentambrette(II) [propyl acetate], 99 Pentanal hexyleneglycol acetal (Herboxane), 50, 127 pentenoic, n-amylic esters of, 89 pentylcyclopentenone (Delphone), 39, 40 peomosa (2-Methylphenylethyl alcohol), 116 Peranat (2-methylpentyl 2-methylpentanoate), 250 Perfumer’s Workshop, Tea Rose by, 240 perfumery marketing, 47–48 Perilla (dihydrocuminic aldehyde), 11 p-Ethyl phenol ethyl ether (Anise ether), 64 p-Ethyl phenoxyacetaldehyde, 76 p-Ethylphenol, 103 p-Ethyl-phenol methyl ether, 69 Petitgrain Paraguay, 23 Petunial (methyl 5-methylsalycilate), 213 Pey, Arturo Jordi, 258 phantolid ketal + a methyl group (Amraketal), 94 Pharaone (2-cyclohexyl-1,6-heptadien-3-one), 257 Phenafleur (Phenylethyl cyclohexylether), 72 Phenirane, 67 Phenomuskol (p-Tertiary butyl acetophenone), 70 Phenoxanol (3-methyl-5-phenyl-1-pentanol), 67, 116, 239 phenoxyacetic aldehyde (Cortex Aldehyde), 17, 44 Phenyl acetaldehyde glyceryl acetal, 71
305 Perfumery: Techniques in Evolution
Phenyl cyclopropanoic acid (Patchoulac), 70 Phenyl ethyl-n-butyl ether, 66 phenyl methyl penten nitrile (Citronitrile), 37 phenylacetates, 107 phenylacetic acid, 107 phenylacetic aldehyde, 17, 44 phenylacetic aldehyde ethylene glycol acetal, 72 phenylacetketone, 125 phenylaketone, 18 Phenylethyl cyclohexylether (Phenafleur), 72 Phenylethyl ethyl ether (Rosacintin), 72 phenylethyl methyl ether (Genistafol), 68 Phenylethyl 2-methyl butyrate, 67 phenylethyl-alpha-propyl acetal (Acetal R), 45 phenylethyles, 42 phenylpropionic aldehyde, 19 Phenyral, 74 Phloralid (1-Methoxy indane), 70 Photo, 183 p-hydroxyphenyl-butanone (Fambione), 15 physeol (III), 93 pineapple fruity aromatics, 43, 122, 249–251 Pineone (2,4,4-Trimethylcyclohexe-2-one), 25 pinoacetaldehyde, 42 p-Isopropyl phenylacetaldehyde, 44 p-Isopropyl-hydratropaldehyde, 44 p-Isopropylphenyl-2-butanal (Florhydral), 117–118 Pivarose, 39 Piver, Tréfle Incarnat by, 2 Pleasures by Estée Lauder, 252 Pleasures Intense, 193 Plicatone [4-Methyl-tricyclo (6,2,1,0) undecan-5-one], 25 2-[p-Mehthenyl-9]-cyclopentanone (Nectaryl), 73 p-menthen-9-al, 13, 39 p-methoxyphenyl butanone (Frambinon methylether), 15, 43 p-Methyl dimethyl benzyl carbinol, 71–72 p-methyl phenyl acetaldehyde, 44 p-Methylphenoxyacetaldehyde (Aldehyde XI), 119 p-methyoxy-phenylbutanone, 15 Polo by Ralph Lauren, 8, 42, 105, 262 Polo Export Extreme, 143 Polymethylol acetate, 66
306 Arcadi Boix Camps Index
Polysantol (3,3-Dimethyl-5-[2,2,3-trimethylcyclopent-3-en-1-yl]-pent-4-enol and 1,2,2-Trimethyl-4-[2,2,3-trimethylcyclopent-3-en-1-yl]-but-3-enol), 97, 174, 182–183 Polywood [1,7,7-trimethyl bicyclo (4,4,0) decyl-3-acetate], 28 Polywoodis, 28 Pomarose (5,6,7-Trimethyl octa-2,5-dien-4-one), 234–235 Pour-Femme by Jean Louis Scherrer, 42 Prachinese, 190 Prassinate, 250–251 Precarone (4-(3-Methyl-2-butenyl)-4,7,7-trimethylbicyclo-[4,1,0] heptan-3-one), 120, 242 Precyclemone B [1-methyl-4-(4-methyl-3-pentenyl)-3-cyclohexenecarbaldehyde], 69, 92 prenyl angelate, 153–154 Printanyl/C, 71 Prismantol (4-methyl-8-methylenetricyclo-[3.3.3]-decan-2-ol), 162–163 Prismylate, 170 Private Collection, 128 Profarnesal, 44 propionate, 16, 41 propyl acetate [pentambrette(II)], 99 propyl dianthilis, 106, 116 Propyl phenylacetate, 107 propylene glycol acetals of vanilla, 60 propyl-2-(1,1-dimethylpropoxy)-propionate [Sclareolate], 147–148 Provencalis, 18 Prunella, 152, 212 Pseudo Linalol, 38 p-tertiary amyl cyclohexanone (Orivone), 30 p-Tertiary butyl acetophenone (Phenomuskol), 70 P-tertiary butylquinoline, 104 pungent woody products, 6–8, 27–28, 53, 92–96 pyrazines, 255 Pyroprunat (2-Cyclopentyl-cyclopentyl crotonate), 121 quinolines, 37
R Rabanne of Paco Rabanne, 14 racinal, 42 Racinon, 30 radiant family, 4, 15–16, 43–44, 125
307 Perfumery: Techniques in Evolution
Raphael, Replique by, 2 raspberry fruity products, 43, 122 reconstitutions versus natural oils 1985, 22 Red Jeans, 182 Replique by Raphael, 2 Reseda Body [4,4,6-Trimethyl-2-benzyl (1,3) dioxane], 72 Resedafol, 45 Resinodor, 155 resinous balsams, 35, 107–108 resinous greens, 18–19, 45–46, 127 Rhodipol/C, 35 Rholiate, 24 Rhubaflor, 56, 172 Rhubafuran (Soofi), 186 Rhubofix, 7, 27, 169 Rhubofuran, 172 Rhumacetal (Cyclohexanone diethylacetal), 124 Robert, Guy, 81 Rocabar, 85 Rochas Absolu de Rochas, 195 Aquaman, 162 Femme, 2 Globe, 99 Macassar, 22 Madame Rochas, 83 Roma, 128 Romanal (tetra methyl tricyclo undecane epoxide), 7 Romandolide [(1S,1’R)-1-[3’,3’-domethyl-1-cyclohexyl)-ethoxycarbonyl]-methyl propionate], 195–196 Romascone (methyl-γ-cyclogeranate), 151–152 Romeo Gigli Man Cologne, 110, 220 Root Body, 35 Rootanol (o-Terbutyl-4-methyl-cyclohexanol), 86 roots, 4, 127 Rosacinthin (beta phenylethyl ethyl ether), 45 Rosacintin (Phenylethyl ethyl ether), 72 Rosaltone, 39 Rosalva, 41 Rosalyptus (Rhodia) [N-N-diethyl-2-ethylhexanamide], 241–242
308 Arcadi Boix Camps Index
Rosamusk [1-(1-acetoxyethyl-1)-3,3-dimethylcycloxane], 190 rosaphen, 116 Rose dihydroxide, 67 rose florals, 12–13, 67–68, 116, 239–242 rose furan, 13, 39 rose ketones, 230–235 rose nitrile, 116 rose oxide, 12, 39 Rose oxo-oxide, 67 Roseate, 41 Rosetyl (0-Methoxy benzyl ethyl ether), 69 Rosilial (Rhodia) [citronnellyl lactate], 241 Rosoxime [(1R,4S)-3-p-menthanone oxime], 240 Rosyrane (2-Phenyl-4-methyl-dihydroprane), 119 Roudnitska, Edmond, 3, 20, 78, 81, 115, 129, 145, 166, 219, 243, 244 Royal Ambré, 48 Ruzicka, Leopold, 211
S Safari for Ladies, 128 Safari for Men, 97, 183 Saffrania, 38 Safraleine (2,3,3-Trimethyl indan-1-one), 226 Safranal, 38 Safrandione (2-Hydroxy-4,4,6-trimethyl-2,5-cyclohexadien-1-one), 226–227 sagetone V (Bornane-3,1-cyclopentanone-2), 85 Saint-Laurent, Yves Nu, 190, 193 Opium, 28, 67, 74, 143, 183 salicylate, 17 Salycinalva (2-phenylhexanitrile), 154 Samaram, 85 Samsara, 97, 128, 183 San Dra C, 174, 204 Sandalore, 29 Sandalwood Givco (Givaudan), 178 sandalwood products, 6–8, 28–30, 32, 55–56, 87, 96–98, 173–185 Sandel C, 29 Sandel Mysore Core, 174 Sandel/A [2-Methyl-4-(2,2,3-trimethyl-3-cyclopentenyl)2-butenol], 55 Sandela [3-(5,5,6-Trimethylbicyclo[2.2.1]hept-2-yl) cyclohexan-1-ol], 8, 29 Sandelex TNK (3-(5,5,6-Trimethylbicyclo[2.2.1]hept-2-yl) cyclohexan-1-ol), 8, 29
309 Perfumery: Techniques in Evolution
Sandenol [3-(5,5,6-Trimethylbicyclo[2.2.1]hept-2-yl) cyclohexan-1-ol], 8, 29 Sandeol [3-(5,5,6-Trimethylbicyclo[2.2.1]hept-2-yl) cyclohexan-1-ol], 8 Sanjinol, 182 Santal Mysore Core [2-Methyl-4-(2,2,3-trimethyl-3-cyclopentenyl)2-butenol], 55 santalol, 8 Sauvegrain, Philippe, 258 Scalareolide, 158, 208 Scarious, Cyperius, 22 Scentenal (6-methoxy cyclopentadiene carboxaldehyde), 76 Scheherazade, 171 Scherrer, Jean Louis Pour-Femme, 42 Scherrer II, 183 Schiff base of campholenic aldehyde and methyl anthranilate (Aromavert), 108 Sclarene (4,5-Decamethylene oxazole), 85 Sclareolate [propyl-2-(1,1-dimethylpropoxy)-propionate], 147–148 Sclarex (5,5-dimethyl-1,4,4a,5,6,7,8,8a-octahydro-1,4-methanonaphtolen-6-yl acetate), 150 Seamoss (Methyl 3-methyl resorcylate), 98 secbutylmethoxypyrazine, 18, 44 Sensi, 193 Serenolide, 203 7-dipropyl-8,8-dimethyl-6,10-dioxaspiro-[4.5]-decane (Opalal), 148–149 7,11-Epoxymegastigma-5(6)-en-9-one, 218 7-Isopropyl-1-oxaspiro [4,5] nonan-2-one (Laitone), 109 7-(3’-methylbutyl)-benzo{β}-{1,4}-dioxepin-3-one [Azurone], 251 Shangralide, 58 s-heptyl furan, 68 Shillong, 190 Shiva, 45 Sigaride, 11 Silvial, 229 Silvial (2-methyl-3,(4)-(2-methylpropyl)-phenylpropanal), 230 sinensal, 37 Sinocitril, 37 6-Acetoxydihydrotheaspirane, 154 6-Amylalphapyrone, 36 6-amyl-a-pyrone(II), 109 6,8-Dimethyl-2-nonanol (Nonadyl), 127 6-ethyl-3-methyloct-6-en-1-ol and 6-ethyl-3-methylocte-5-en-1-ol, mixture of (Meoparf ), 236–237 6-hydroxydihydrotheaspirane, 89, 186–187
310 Arcadi Boix Camps Index
6-Isopropyl-2-decalone (Decatone), 30 6-methoxy cyclopentadiene carboxaldehyde (Scentenal), 76 6-Methoxy-2,6-dimethylheptanal (Methoxymelonal), 122 6, 7-dihydro-1,1,2,3,3-pentamethyl-4(5H)-indanone [Cashmeran], 42, 44 6-[2,Pentenyl]-5,6-dihydro-2-pyrone (Tuberolactone), 43 So de Givenchy, 194 So Pretty, 128 Sonia Rykiel, 190 Soofi (Rhubafuran), 186 Sotolone (4,5-dimethyl-3-hydroxy-2,5-dihydrofuran-2-one), 214–215 Spezia, 38 spice family, 3, 11, 38, 65–66, 113, 226–227 Spirambrene, 95 Spirogalbanone (1-spiro-[4.5]-dec-7-en-7-yl-4-penten-1-one), 258–259 Stemone, 18 strrax, 154 styrallyl acetate, 75 Styrallyl crotonate (Forenat), 108 sugar pyranone (2,3-Dihydro-3,5-dihydroxy-6-methyl-4H-pyranone), 215–216 Sulfocassione, 253–254 sulfox (II), 123 Sumatril (Tricyclodecane carbonitrile), 105 Super Muguet, 229 Sylvestone, 11 Syvertal, 45
T Tabanone (3-megastigmatrienone), 62, 108 Tabaxol (2-methylbenzoxazole), 216 tachrysate, 25 Tamarine base, 46 Tamigone, 90 Tamisone, 154–155 Tangenil, 37 tangerine citrics, 63–64 tangerinol(III), 126 Tarragol (octahydroeugenol), 113, 227–228 TCD acetate (tricyclodecane methanol acetate), 31 tea, 154 Tea Rose by Perfumer’s Workshop, 240 Ted Lapidus for Men, 93 Tellurol, 70
311 Perfumery: Techniques in Evolution
10-Isopropyl-2,7-dimethyl-1-oxaspiro-[4,5]-deca-3,6-diene (Neocaspirene), 123–124 10-Oxadecanolide (Oxalide), 10 Terrasol (ethyl fenchol), 28, 86 Tetrahydro ethyl safranate (Thesaron), 153 tetrahydrocitral, 5, 24 Tetrahydroedulane, 52 tetrahydroionol, 187–188 tetrahydrolinalol, 38 Tetrahydro-4-methyl-2-phenyl-2H-pyran (Doremox), 119 Tetrahydro-4-methyl-2-pyran-4-ol (Clarycet), 84–85 tetrahydromyrcenol, 12, 38 tetrahydromyrcenyl acetate, 38 Tetrahydronootkatol, 225 tetramethyl hexanal (Vandor B or TMH Aldehyde), 24 tetra methyl tricyclo undecane epoxide (Romanal), 7 Tetramethyl tricyclo undecan-5-one (Valanone B), 54 Tetramethylethylcyclohexanone, 90, 155 Tetrascone [1-(1,2,3,4-tetrahydro-4,4-dimethyl-1-naphtalenyl)-propan-1-one], 217 Theaspirane, 52, 154 Thesaron (Tetrahydro ethyl safranate), 153 Thibetolide, 34 Thio Terpineol, 46, 63 Thiocineol, 37, 46, 112 Thiogeraniol, 46 Thiolimonene, 46, 112 thioterpineol(III), 112 thiovert (III), 123 13-methyloxacyclopentadec-10-en-2-one (Nirvanolide), 195 13,Oxabicyclo {10,3,0} pentadecane (Cyclamber), 54, 96 3-Acetyl thio hexyl acetate (Passifloran), 266–267 3-(cis-3-hexenyloxy)-propane nitrile [Parmanyl (Symrise)], 245 3-decen-2-one, 72 3-(5,5,6-Trimethylbicyclo[2.2.1]hept-2-yl) cyclohexan-1-ol (Sandela, Santalex TNK, Sandeol or Sandenol), 8, 29 3-(5-Methyl-2-furyl)-butanal, 246–247 3-(4-ethylphenyl)-2,2-dimethylpropanenitrile (Fleuranil), 158 3,4,5,6,6-Pentamethylheptanol-2 and isomers (Kohinool), 100 3-Methyl octyl nitrile (Jascitile), 59 3-{4-Methylcyclo-hexen-3-yl}-butanol (Cyclomethylene citronellol), 117 3-megastigmatrienone (Tabanone), 62, 108 3-Mercapto-3-methylbutyl Formate (Cassis Thio Formate), 253–254
312 Arcadi Boix Camps Index
3-methyldodecyl nitrile (Frescyle), 64 3-methyl-5-phenyl-2-pentan nitrile (Hydrocitronitrile), 230 3-Methyl-5-phenylpentanal (Mefranal), 118 3-methyl-5-phenyl-1-pentanol (Phenoxanol), 67, 116, 239 3-Methyl-4-tricyclodec-4-en-8-ylidene butan-2-ol (Fleursandol), 179–181 3-Methyl-4-(2,2,6-trimethylcyclohexyl)-butan-2-ol [Madranol], 168–169 3-Methyl-γ-nonalactone, 73 3-methyl-4-phenyl-2-butanol (Muguesia), 238–239 3-Methyl-6-p-tertiary butyl phenol, 58 3-methylthiohexenol, 46 3-Methyl-5-{2,2,3-trimethyl-3-cyclopenten-1-yl}-4penten-2- ol (Ebanol), 97, 182 3-methyl-2-hexenyl acetate (Aladinate), 264 3-Oxa-4,4,8,9-tetramethylbicyclo [4,4,0]-dece-7-ene and isomers (Pamplenol C), 113 3-oxa-10-ethylidenetricyclo (6,2,1,0) undecan-4-one [Florex], 35 3-phenyl butyraldehyde (Trifernal), 76 (+)-(3S, 1’R,6’S) Nor Limbanol. 2,2,6-Trimethyl-α-propyl cyclohexane propanol [Nor Limbanol and Dextro Nor Limbanol], 93, 160–161 3-Secbutyl cyclohexylacetate (Mettambrate), 124 3,6-Dimethyl-1,6-octadienol (Muguetinol), 237–238 3-Theaspirone (Oxo-Theaspirane), 62, 109 3-Thiohexanol, 265 3-Thiohexyl acetate, 266 3-Thiohexyl butyrate, 267 3-Thiohexyl Caproate, 267 3-Thiohexyl invovalerate, 267 3,3-Dimethyl-5-[2,2,3-trimethylcyclopent-3-en-1-yl]-pent-4-enol and 1,2,2-Trimethyl-4-[2,2,3-trimethylcyclopent-3-en-1-yl]-but-3-enol (Polysantol), 97, 174, 182–183 3,3-Dimethyl-1.5-dioxaspiro (5,5) undecane [Thymoxane], 52 3,3-Dimethyl-2-norbornane-2-ethanol (Patchomint), 88 3,3,5-Trimethylcyclohexanone, 36 3,3,5-trimethyl-2-cyclohexen-1one (Isophorone), 108 3,3,5-Trimethylcyclohexyl ethyl ether (Herbavert), 128 3,3,4,5-Pentamethyl-11,13-dioxatricyclo-[7,4,0,0-{2,6}]-tridec-2/6-ene (Nebulone), 201–202 3,12-Tridecadien nitrile (Mandaril), 111–112 3-(2-Bornyloxy)-2-methyl,exo- 1.propanol [Bornafix], 164–165 thuione, 4 thujonic herbals, 53, 90–91, 154–155 Thymoxane [3,3-Dimethyl-1.5-dioxaspiro (5,5) undecane], 52 tiglates, 16, 39
313 Perfumery: Techniques in Evolution tiglic acid, 35 Timberol, 7, 15, 27 Timberol Forte, 206 Timberone, 54 TMH Aldehyde (tetramethyl hexanal), 24, 88 Tobacarol [5,6-epoxy-2,6,10,10-Tetramethyl bicyclo (7,2,0)-undecane], 94 tobacco chemicals, 32, 36–37, 61–63, 108–109, 216–219 Tocade, 239 Tonalide, 10 Tonkalactone, 110 Tonkarol (Ethyl cyclohexyl ethanol), 61 Too Much Champs Elysées, 193 Trans-δ-Damascone [1-(2,6,6-trimethyl-3-cyclohexen-1-yl)-but-2-en-1-one], 125, 232, 234 Trans-decahydro β-naphthol, 55 trans-4-decenal, 26 trans-Methyl Nor Limbanol) 1-(2,2,3,6-Tetramethyl-1-cyclohexyl)-3-hexanol [Limbanol], 158–159 trans-9-decenal, 5 trans-9-undecenal, 155–157 trans-2-cis-6-nonadienol (violet leaf alcohol), 122 trans-2-decenal, 5, 26 trans-2-dodecenal aldehydes, 5 citrics, 11 trans-2-heptenal, 5 trans-2-hexenol, 17 trans-2-nonenal, 5, 26 trans-2-tetradecenal, 229–230 trans-2-tridecenal aldehydes, 5, 26 citrics, 11 trans-2-undecenal, 5 Traseolide, 10 Tréfle Incarnat by Piver, 2 Tressor, 127 Tricyclo hexanone P. (p-Cyclo hexyl cyclo hexanone), 65 Tricyclodecane carbonitrile (Sumatril), 105 tricyclodecane methanol acetate (TCD acetate), 31 Tricyclone DIPG, 61 Tricyclone DPG, 110 tridecen-2-nitrile, 37
314 Arcadi Boix Camps Index
Trifernal (3-phenyl butyraldehyde), 76 Trimenal (trimethyldecadienal), 26 Trimethyl cyclododecadienol and trimethyl-cyclododecatrienol (Boisanol), 94 trimethyl cyclohexyl acetate, 4 Trimethyl octenol, 66 trimethylcyclodecatriene epoxide (Cedroxyde), 7 Trimethylcyclohexenemethanol (Isocyclogeraniol), 120 trimethylcyclohexenylcarboxaldehyde (Isocyclocitral), 17 trimethylcyclohexyl acetate, 23 trimethyldecadienal (Trimenal), 26 trimethylhexanal, 4, 24 trimethylpentylcyclopentanone (Veloutone), 39, 41 trimethylundecadienal (Oncidal), 14, 43 trimethylundecylenic aldehyde (Adoxal or Farenal), 17 Trimofix (acetyl-1 ,5,9-trimethyl-1-5-9 cyclododecatriene), 28 Triplal (dimethyl-cyclohexenylcarboxaldehyde), 17, 25, 39 Triplal nitrile (Trivertanyl), 110–111 Trisamber (Decahydro-2,6,6,7,8,8- Hexamethyl-8H-indeno [4,5-B]-furan), 163 Trivertanol (Dimethyl-2,4-cyclohexene-3-methanol), 74 Trivertanyl (Triplal nitrile), 110–111 tropical greens, 127, 265–267 Truth for Men by Calvin Klein, 178, 179, 257 Tsar by Van Cleef & Arpels, 99, 112 Tuberolactone (6-[2,Pentenyl]-5,6-dihydro-2-pyrone), 43 Tuscani, 183 12-Norallisolongifolan-14-one, 208–209 12-Oxahexadecanolide (Hibiscolide), 10 2-Acetoxy-1,8-cineol, 150 2-acetyl furan, 216–217 (-)-(2)-α-trans Bergamotol, 56 2-{cyclododecyl}-propan-1-ol (Hydroxyambran), 94–95, 158, 167–168 2-Cyclohexyl cyclohexanone (Givmenthe), 88 2-cyclohexylethyl acetate (Ciclanol Acetate), 68 2-cyclohexyl-1,6-heptadien-3-one (Pharaone), 257 2-Cyclohexylidene-2-phenylacetonitrile (Peionile), 119 2-cyclopentenyl cyclo pentanone, 66 2-Cyclopentyl-cyclopentyl crotonate (Pyroprunat), 121 2-dodecadienal, 11, 37 2-Dodecenoic acid, 64 2-Ethoxy-4-methylphenol (Ultravanil), 106 2-ethoxy-thiazole, 44 2-ethylbenzoxazole (Mossenate), 216
315 Perfumery: Techniques in Evolution
2-ethyl-4-hydroxy-5-methyl-2(2H)-furanone [Homofuronol], 214 2.5-dimethyl heptene-5-ol-2, 50 2,5-Dimethyl-2-octen-6-one (Dimethyloctenone), 113 2,5,5-Trimethyl-2,6,-heptadien-4-one (artemisia ketone), 91 2,5,7,7-Tetramethyloctanal (Lyrisal), 118 2,5,6-Trimethyl-4-heptenal (Greenal), 88 2,4-Diethoxy-5-methylpyrimidine (Vethymine), 87 2,4-Dimethyl 4-penylpentane nitrile (Khusinyl), 225 2,4-Dimethyl-3-cyclohexene-1-methanyl acetate (Floralate), 112 2,4-Dimethyl-5,6-indanyldioxane (Magnolan), 117 2,4,4,7-Tetramethyl-6,8-nonadien-3-one oxime (Labienoxime DA), 123–124 2,4,4,7-Tetramethylnonan-6,8-dien-3-one (Labienone), 121, 248 2,4,4,7-tetramethyl-oct-6-3n-3-one (Claritone), 149–150 2,4,4-Trimethylcyclohexe-2-one (Pineone), 25 2,4-Hexadienol (Mimoril), 42 2-hexyl furan, 68 2-hydroxy-2,5,5-trimethyl-8,8-A-epoxy octaline (Alpha-Ambrinol epoxide), 32 2-hydroxy-2,5,5-trimethyl-8,8-A-epoxyoctaline (Ambrinoloxyde), 102 2-Hydroxy-4,4,6-trimethyl-2,5-cyclohexadien-1-one (Safrandione), 226–227 2-Methyl decyl nitrile (Frutonile), 69 2-methyl pentenoic acid, 89 2-methyl tetrahydro furan-3-one, 64 2-methylbenzoxazole (Tabaxol), 216 2-methylbutyrate, 16 2-methyl-4-(2,6,6.trimethylcyclohexen-2-yl)-butanal [Cetonal], 247 2-Methyl-4-(2,2,3-trimethyl-3-cyclopentenyl)2-butenol [Santal Mysore Core or Sandel/A ], 55 2-methyl-4-(2,2,3-trimethylcyclopent-3-enyl)-pent-4-en-1-al [Mysoral], 176–177 2-methyl-4-(2,2,3-trimethylcyclopent-3-enyl)-pent-4-en-1-ol [Firsantol], 97, 175–176 2-Methyl-1,4-nonalactone (Methyl tuberate or tuberolide), 43 2-methylpentyl 2-methylpentanoate (Peranat), 250 2-Methylphenylethyl alcohol (peomosa), 116 2-Methyl-3-cyclohexecarboxaldehyde glycerol acetal (Histidal), 87 2-Methyl-3-(-2-methyl-5-isopropenyl-cyclopentenyl) propyl acetate [MCP acetate], 31, 44, 99 2-methyl-3,(4)-(2-methylpropyl)-phenylpropanal (Silvial), 230 2-Methyl-2-vinyl-5-isopropenyl tetrahydrofuran (Desoxide), 23 212 by Carolina Herrera, 175 2-Oxa-2-oxo-bicyclo (4,4,0) decane [Bicyclolactone], 61 2-Phenyl-4-methyl-dihydroprane (Rosyrane), 119 2-phenylhexanitrile (Salycinalva), 154
316 Arcadi Boix Camps Index
2-[p-Mehthenyl-9]-cyclopentanone (Nectaryl), 43 2-Secbutyl cyclohexanone (Freskomenthe), 88 2,7-Dimethyl oct-5-en-4-one (Isotagetone), 73 2,6 Dodecadienal, 11 2,6-Dimethylbicyclo (64.4.06) decan-1-ol [Geosmin], 32, 33 2,6-Dimethyl-4-heptanone, 147 2,6,9,10-Tetramethyl-1-oxaspiro-{4,5}-deca-3,6-diene (Isospirene), 39, 64, 124 2,6-Nonadien nitrile), 120 2,6-nonadienol, 14, 19 2,3-Dihydro-3,5-dihydroxy-6-methyl-4H-pyranone (sugar pyranone), 215–216 2,3-laevo-Dihydrofarnesol, 237–238 2,3,3-Trimethyl indan-1-one (Safraleine), 226 2-tridecenal, 37 2,2,4 (2,4,4) trimethyl cyclopentanone, 53 2,-5-methyl-5-{1-methylpropyl} (Karanal), 95 2,[2-Methyl-3-pentenyl]-5-ethylpyridine (Hederyl), 126 2,2,6,8-Tetramethyl-2-octalinol (Octalinol), 122, 252 2,2,6-Trimethyl cyclo hex-5-en-1,4-dione (Cetotabac), 36, 108–109, 217 2,2,6-trimethyl cyclohex-5-en-1,4-dione (Oxophorone), 108 2,2,6-Trimethyl-a-propyl-cyclohexane propanol (nor limbanol), 93, 160–161 2,2,6-Trimethylcyclohexanone, 25 2,2,6-Trimethyl-2-vinyl-tetrahydropyrane (Lime oxide), 23, 112 2,2,6-Trimethyl-6-vinyl-tetrahydropyrano (Geranic oxide), 23
U Ultravanil (2-Ethoxy-4-methylphenol), 106 Ultraviolet, 143, 176, 193 Undecavertol (4-Methyl-3-decen-5-ol), 127 undecen-2-nitrile(II), 111 Undecylenic nitrile, 60 Ungaro for Men and Gentlemen by Givenchy, 86
V Vacher, Paul, 81 Valanone B (Tetramethyl tricyclo undecan-5-one), 54 Van Cleef & Arpels Tsar, 99 Van Cleef & Arpels for Men, 106, 128 Zanzibar, 162 Vandor B (tetramethyl hexanal), 24 vanilla family, 35, 60, 106
317 Perfumery: Techniques in Evolution vanillin, 106 Vanillyl isobutyrate (Isobutavan), 106 Veloutone (trimethylpentylcyclopentanone), 39, 41 Veramoss, 8 Verbenone, 45, 50 Verbenyl acetate, 147 Verdima (α,α-Diethylpyridine), 261–262 Verlastil, 44 Vernaldehyde, 44 Versus Time for Action, 194 Vert d’ Encens, 45 Vert de Capicine, 45 Vert de Pamplemousse, 46, 112 Vert Violettal, 19 Vertamide, 75 Vertofix/Vertofix Coeur (methyl cedryl ketone), 6–7, 27, 233 Vertral (II) (formyltricyclodecane), 125 Verylane, 50 Vethymine (2,4-Diethoxy-5-methylpyrimidine), 87 Vetiver by Gerlain, 128 vetiver chemicals, 169–173 vetiver oils, 87 Vetocet (vetyverone), 30 Vetycon, 30 Vetykone, 186 Vetylbois (1,4-Dimethoxy-2-terbutyl benzene), 96 Vetysertone (4-Cyclohexyl-4-methyl-2-pentanone), 30 Vetyval (4-Cyclohexyl-4-methyl-2-pentanone), 30 vetyver, 30, 92 Vetyverols, 169 vetyverones (Oxyser and Vetrocet), 30 Vigoflor (IFF), 186 Vikä cologne by Lever, 45 violet florals, 14, 72, 119–120, 245–248 violet greens, 19 violet leaf alcohol (trans-2-cis-6-nonadienol), 122 Violet nitrile (Nitrile nonadienyl), 72 Violet nitrile (2,6-Nonadien nitrile), 120 Violettyne MIP (Firmenich) (1,3-undecadien-5-yne), 245–246 Violiff (IFF) [4-cycloocten-1-yl methyl-4-carbonate], 246 Vivaldie (Cis-3-Hexenyl methylallyl ether), 261 vulcanolide, 102, 198
318 Arcadi Boix Camps Index
W Wardia, 235 Warnecke, Hans Ulrich, 161, 168 watermelon fruity, 122, 251–252 watermelon ketone (dihydrobenzoxepinone), 15, 81 White Cyclamen, 120 White Rose (Bielaya Rosa), 239 Wings for Women, 114 Wolkowisky, Mr., 78 woody family, 3, 6–8, 26–31, 53–57, 92–98, 158–169, 186–192 woody oakmoss chemicals, 57 woody-floral family, 99–100 woody-moist-rooty-earthy chemicals, 56–57 Woolfwood ([15-(1!a,2!b,3!b,5!a)]-2,6,6-trimethylspiro [bicyclo-[3.1.1]heptane- 3,1’-[2]-cyclohexen]-4-one), 96, 169–170 Worth, Je reviens by, 2
X – Y XS for ladies, 127, 182, 183, 236 for men, 92
Yatagan, 27, 48 Yrotil (ethylethylcapronate), 30 Ysamber K, 158 Ysamber K (1,1,5,5-tetramethyl hexahydro spiro {1,3-dioxolane-2,8-(5H)-[2H- 2,4a]-methano naphthalene}), 163–164 Yugoslavian Oakmoss absolute, 57 Yvresse, 23, 128
Z Zanzibar by Van Cleef & Arpels, 162 Zegna, Essenza by, 175, 176, 190 Zen de Shiseido, 40 0-Methoxy benzyl ethyl ether (Rosetyl), 69 Zestaroma, 17 zestarome, 125 Zestodial, 17, 125 Ziblenia, 43 Zinarine, 263–264
319