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Perfume Engineering Perfume Engineering Design, Performance & Classification
Perfume Engineering Perfume Engineering Design, Performance & Classification Miguel A. Teixeira, Oscar Rodríguez, Paula Gomes, Vera Mata, Alírio E. Rodrigues Laboratory of Separation and Reaction Engineering (LSRE) Associate Laboratory Department of Chemical Engineering Faculty of Engineering of University of Porto Porto, Portugal P. Gomes and V. Mata are currently at i-sensis company S. João da Madeira, Portugal AMSTERDAM • BOSTON • HEIDELBERG • LONDON NEW YORK • OXFORD • PARIS • SAN DIEGO SAN FRANCISCO • SINGAPORE • SYDNEY • TOKYO Butterworth-Heinemann is an imprint of Elsevier Butterworth-Heinemann is an imprint of Elsevier The Boulevard, Langford Lane, Kidlington, Oxford, OX5 1GB, UK 225 Wyman Street, Waltham, MA 02451, USA First published 2013 Copyright r 2013 Elsevier Ltd. All rights reserved No part of this publication may be reproduced or transmitted in any form or by any means, electronic or mechanical, including photocopying, recording, or any information storage and retrieval system, without permission in writing from the publisher. Details on how to seek permission, further information about the Publisher’s permissions policies and our arrangement with organizations such as the Copyright Clearance Center and the Copyright Licensing Agency, can be found at our website: www.elsevier.com/permissions This book and the individual contributions contained in it are protected under copyright by the Publisher (other than as may be noted herein). Notices Knowledge and best practice in this field are constantly changing. As new research and experience broaden our understanding, changes in research methods, professional practices, or medical treatment may become necessary. Practitioners and researchers must always rely on their own experience and knowledge in evaluating and using any information, methods, compounds, or experiments described herein. -
Le Chypre, Un Parfum Au Cours Des Ages, Cahier Des Alpes –Maritimes N°8 1910’S
Saturday April, 7th - h. 12.30 pm « » With Bruno Hervé OSMOTHEQUE Perfumer and Osmocurator L’Osmothèque - A few figures 4000 PERFUMES IN THE COLLECTION 800 DiSCONTINUED PERFUMES 200 PERFUMES RE-CREATED BASED ON ORIGINAL FORMULAS 27 YEARS OLD INSTITUTION 100 000 VISITORS SINCE IT’S CREATION 5 000 VISITORS EACH YEAR 1500 RARE OR DISCONTUNUED RAW MATERIALS 12 OSMOCURATORS – PERFUMERS INVOLVED 2 SUBSIDIARIES: AU MIP GRASSE / NEW YORK The origin of Chypre Iconic Fragance XVII th – Early XVIII th centuries « La poudre de Chypre » The word “Chypre” or “Cypre” designates an oak tree in Old French. Chypre powder, which has given its name to the Chypre family in perfumery, is made mostly from the moss that lives as a parasite on oak trees. Oak moss is always mixed with bits of bark torn off when moss is harvested, so its smell mingles with the scent of the tannin, a fragrant green component of the oak wood. Long ago fashionable people used Chypre powder to powder their skin or their wig. It was also used in making potpourri, “sachets” and baskets of fragrances. The chypre family The Chypre Family The differents notes: - Bergamot Chypre - Rose - Jasmin Fruity Chypre - Cistus – Labdanum - Oak’s Moss Floral Aldehydic - Patchouli Chypre Leather Chypre Aromatic Chypre Green Chypre Floral Chypre The first Chypres (before 1917) Eau de Chypre Cyprisine Chypre de Paris Guerlain Guerlain Guerlain 1850 1894 1909 Chypre de Tentation Chypre Roger & Gallet Lubin 1893 1898 • Eau de Chypre (Guerlain, near 1850) • Poudre de Riz Chypre (Florida, near 1900) • Chypre -
L'espace Sensible Du Héros Dans Volo Di Notte De Luigi Dallapiccola
Document generated on 10/02/2021 1:58 a.m. Sens public L’espace sensible du héros dans Volo di notte de Luigi Dallapiccola lieu de cristallisation de l’authentique et de l’artifice Sylvain Samson Écrire les communs. Au-devant de l’irréversible Article abstract 2019 The composer Luigi Dallapiccola writes his own libretti. His first opera, Volo di notte (1937-39), re-writes Saint Exupéry’s work in the operatic genre, thereby URI: https://id.erudit.org/iderudit/1067417ar redefining the use of space as pertains to a novel. The stage is no longer DOI: https://doi.org/10.7202/1067417ar neutral. Examining the spatial dimension of Dallapiccola’s opera, this article demonstrates its delicate and meaningful construction, wherein technology See table of contents collides with the operatic genre. This collision occurs in part because Dallapiccola adds radiotelegraphic technology to pre-existing aircraft technology. The work is staged in airmail service offices, a unique place which music enhances and yet renders invisible, between light and shadow, dreams Publisher(s) and nightmares. The sky represents the heart of absence ; Fabien’s space, a Département des littératures de langue française cabin for a condemned hero, is impalpable, but it resonates, resounds and redoubles as a result of the radiotelegraph operator’s voice. Dallapiccola’s modern messenger enables the spaces to be permeated; the radio is the ISSN technological artifice symbolising distance, but which, paradoxically, appears 2104-3272 (digital) nevertheless authentic as it epitomizes the notion of mimesis. Fabien never appears on the stage because he is embodied by a machine that absorbs the Explore this journal radiotelegraph operator: he is a machine-messenger. -
City Research Online
View metadata, citation and similar papers at core.ac.uk brought to you by CORE provided by City Research Online City Research Online City, University of London Institutional Repository Citation: Pace, I. (2017). Luigi Dallapiccola and Musical Modernism in Fascist Italy. By Ben Earle. Music and Letters, 98(1), pp. 163-167. doi: 10.1093/ml/gcx013 This is the accepted version of the paper. This version of the publication may differ from the final published version. Permanent repository link: http://openaccess.city.ac.uk/17632/ Link to published version: http://dx.doi.org/10.1093/ml/gcx013 Copyright and reuse: City Research Online aims to make research outputs of City, University of London available to a wider audience. Copyright and Moral Rights remain with the author(s) and/or copyright holders. URLs from City Research Online may be freely distributed and linked to. City Research Online: http://openaccess.city.ac.uk/ [email protected] {[email protected]} Luigi Dallapiccola and Musical Modernism in Fascist Italy. By Ben Earle. pp. xv + 304. Music Since 1900. (Cambridge University Press, Cambridge and New York, 2013. £65. ISBN 978-0-521-84403-1.) Extended studies of music, musicians, and musical life in fascist Italy first appeared in the mid-1980s, since when there has been a plethora of studies and essay collections, including three major monographs with diverse methodologies: Fiamma Nicolodi, Musica e musicisti nel ventennio fascista (Florence, 1984); Harvey Sachs, Music in Fascist Italy (New York and London, 1987); Jürg Stenzl, Von Giacomo Puccini zu Luigi Nono. Italienische Musik 1922-1952: Faschismus-Resistenza-Republik (Buren, 1990). -
Arranging Fine Perfume Compositions the Fougere & Lavender’S
Arranging Fine Perfume Compositions The Fougere & Lavender’s Glen O. Brechbill Fragrance Books Inc. www.perfumerbook.com New Jersey - USA 2011 Fragrance Books Inc. @www.perfumerbook.com Glen O. Brechbill “To my late father and beloved mother without them non of this work would have been possible” II ARRANTING FINE PERFUME COMPOSITIONS - THE FOUGERE LAVENDER’S © This book is a work of non-fiction. No part of the book may be used or reproduced in any manner whatsoever without written permission from the author except in the case of brief quotations embodied in critical articles and reviews. Please note the enclosed book is based on Fragrance Ingredients by House ©. Designed by Glen O. Brechbill Library of Congress Brechbill, Glen O. Arranging Fine Perfume Compositions - The Fougere Lavender’s / Glen O. Brechbill P. cm. 626 pgs. 1. Fragrance Ingredients Non Fiction. 2. Written odor descriptions to facillitate the understanding of the olfactory language. 1. Essential Oils. 2. Aromas. 3. Chemicals. 4. Classification. 5. Source. 6. Art. 7. Twenty one thousand fragrances. 8. Science. 9. Creativity. I. Title. Certificate Registry # TXu1 - 364 - 187 Copyright © 2006 by Glen O. Brechbill All Rights Reserved PRINTED IN THE UNITED STATES OF AMERICA 10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1 First Edition Fragrance Books Inc. @www.perfumerbook.com Arranging Fine Perfume Compositions - THE FOUGÈRE & LAVENDER’S About the Book The fougère & lavender's is another favorite fragrance family. Originally this concept was intended for Women. However due to the strength of lavender a major component of this family it ended up as a masculine fragrance concept. -
Piccolo Principe.Pdf
Il piccolo principe dall’isola alle stelle Antoine de Saint-Exupéry in Sardegna e Corsica LUCIANO DERIU Il piccolo principe dall’isola alle stelle Antoine de Saint-Exupéry in Sardegna e Corsica DISEGNI DI PAOLA SERRA Introduzione di Pasquale Chessa RINGRAZIAMENTI SPECIALI L’autore ringrazia tutte le persone, famiglie, enti e istituzioni che hanno fornito testimonianze, documentazioni e collaborazione. Un grazie particolare a Pasquale Chessa, al Tenente Colonnello Mauro Niola dell’Aeroporto Militare di Alghero, alla famiglia Montalto-Carboni, all’Architetto Chicco Mannazzu, allo storico Enrico Valsecchi, al personale degli Archivi Storici di Alghero (Sardegna) e di Bastia (Corsica). I disegni che rappresentano Saint‑Exupéry ad Alghero sono liberamente ispirati alle fotografie di John Phillips pubblicate in Poet and pilot Antoine de Saint-Exupéry, Photographs by John Phillips, Colletion du Musée de L’Elysée, Lausanne, Scalo Zurich, Berlin, New York. a Davide e Claudio INDICE Ringraziamenti speciali . pag. 7 Introduzione Passaggio ad Alghero . 17 Antoine de Saint‑Exupéry La vita breve del poeta pilota . 25 Saint‑Ex in Sardegna . .31 Arrivo in Sardegna . La squadra aerea II/33 . 31 Alghero, l’aeroporto . 31 Il capitano de “La hache” . 32 Vita quotidiana nel campo . 33 Saint‑Ex, poeta e pilota . .33 John Phillips, l’amico americano . .39 Il diavolo a due code . 39. Il baule blu . 40 La guerra di Tonio . 40 consuelo e altri amori . 41 Gli antefatti Le vicende che portarono Saint-Ex alla guerra . 47 Flashback 1940 . .47 Volo su Arras, missione suicida . .47 Un uomo in fuga . 48 Esilio a New York . 49 Amici e nemici . .51 Gli amori americani . -
I ROW CONSTRUCTION and ACCOMPANIMENT in LUIGI
ROW CONSTRUCTION AND ACCOMPANIMENT IN LUIGI DALLAPICCOLA’S IL PRIGIONIERO A Thesis presented to the Faculty of the Graduate School at the University of Missouri-Columbia In Partial Fulfillment of the Requirements for the Degree Master of Music by DORI WAGGONER Dr. Neil Minturn, Thesis Supervisor December 2007 i The undersigned, appointed by the dean of the Graduate School, have examined the thesis entitled ROW CONSTRUCTION AND ACCOMPANIMENT IN LUIGI DALLAPICCOLA’S IL PRIGIIONIERO presented by Dori Waggoner, a candidate for the degree of master of music, and hereby certify that, in their opinion, it is worthy of acceptance. Professor Neil Minturn Professor Stefan Freund Professor Rusty Jones Professor Thomas McKenney Professor Nancy West ii Thank you to my husband and son. Without your support, patience, and understanding, none of this would have been possible. iii ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS Without the encouragement and advice of Dr. Neil Minturn, this document would not exist. I would like to thank him for encouraging me to listen to the music and to let it guide me through the analysis. ii TABLE OF CONTENTS ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS……………………………………………………...….ii LIST OF EXAMPLES……………………………………………………………...iv ABSTRACT………………………………………………………………….……..vi Chapter 1. INTRODUCTION…………………………………………………………….1 Compositional Influences Plot Summary 2. ROW CONSTRUCTION……………………………………………………..9 The Prayer Row The Hope Row The Freedom Row The Chorus Row The Fratello Motif/Row 3. ACCOMPANIMENT………...……………………………………….…….26 Accompaniment that Doubles the Vocal Line Accompaniment by Same Row Accompaniment by Different Row Accompaniment with Chromaticism Accompaniment with Octatonicism 4. CONCLUSIONS……………………………………………………………35 WORKS CITED…………………………………………………………..……….39 iii LIST OF EXAMPLES Example Page 1. Volo di Notte , mm. 382–387………………………………………………….….….6 2. Prayer Row……………………………………………………….…………….…..11 3. -
Letter NATURALS + BEST of the BLOGGERS + LATEST LAUNCHES
THE www.perfumesociety.org NO. 32 - HIGH SUMMER 2018 scentedTHE NEW letter NATURALS + BEST OF THE BLOGGERS + LATEST LAUNCHES Flower power! editor’s LEttER It has been the greatest summer for flowers and gardens that I can ever remember. I’ll be hanging onto the precious memories of rambling roses, scrambling jasmine and aromatic lavender, as autumn arrives. And since fragrance offers us a way of wallowing in the beauty of flowers, 365 days a year, we thought we’d devote this entire issue to flowers – and their infinite power to delight us. A key trend we’re seeing at The Perfume Society is the revival in floral fragrances for men. And why not? Put jasmine or rose or violet on a man’s skin, and we find it’s expressed in a quite different way to a woman’s. Of course, once upon a time, florals were widely-worn among men – back in the days before marketing came into play and fragrances acquired ‘gender’. It probably isn’t coincidence that as that becomes blurred again in the wider world (and about time, too), men’s florals are being worn loudly and proudly. So we asked Darren Scott to hand-pick the best men’s florals – and on p.22, he shares a positive bouquet of them. One perfumery house known for capturing the magic of flowers is LMR Naturals. Who?, I hear you chorus. Well, you may not know LMR’s name – but you’ll no doubt be familiar with dozens of fragrances which include the petalicious notes they extract (via various clever techniques) from nature’s floral bounty. -
Olfactory Workshops by Osmothèque
Olfactory Workshops By Osmothèque Designed for fragrance industry professionals Fougère Royale (1884) HOUBIGANT, Le Fruit Défendu (1914) ROSINE, Chypre (1917) COTY, Crêpe de Chine (1925) MILLOT, Iris Gris (1947) FATH,… Osmothèque: the beginnings From the Greek osme - odor and thêkê - place, the Osmothèque was inaugurated over 20 years ago, in 1990. It has since become the one-of-a- kind olfactory archives that to this day remains unique in the world. The idea of a “Maison des Parfums” (Home of Perfumes) was under evaluation by the technical commission of the Société Française des Parfumeurs for years. The aim was to create a place where professionals and fragrance lovers could rediscover the perfumes they had once known and loved. In addition, the institution was to devote itself to scents long forgotten, to become the only place where lost or discontinued fragrances could be reproduced, classified and archived. In order to realize such an ambitious project, several passionate perfumers, members of the commission, had to show a great deal of commitment and determination. Together they set to revive lost perfumes, creating their records and thus protecting the heritage of the fragrance industry. Those pioneers collected some 400 fragrances, of which 70 were already at the time discontinued. Two institutions have been enthusiastically and determinedly supporting the project: the Comité Français du Parfum (CFP) and the Chambre de Commerce et d’Industrie de Versailles Val d’Oise-Yvelines (CCIV). Thanks to their financial support, the Osmothèque has grown over the years... Jean Kerléo, Osmothèque’s Funder Osmothèque Our nowadays most popular The only place in the world where you can scent lost fragrances WORKSHOPS that once embodied an era. -
Collection Osmothèque Juin 2015
Collection Osmothèque Juin 2015 Nom Marque Année lancement Conc Famille Sous famille Parfumeur 1 Parfumeur 2 Nom Marque Année lancement Conc Famille Sous famille Parfumeur 1 Parfumeur 2 Orchidée Blanche ACORELLE R de Rose ACORELLE 2009 EDP Acqua Di Parma Assoluta ACQUA DI PARMA 2003 EDC Hespéridé Hespéridé Jean-Claude Ellena Bertrand Duchaufour Colonia Intensa ACQUA DI PARMA 2007 EDC Boisé Chypré Alberto Morillas Blu Mediterraneo : Mandorlo Di ACQUA DI PARMA 1999 EDC Ambré Fleuri Boisé Sicilia Fico di Amalfi (Blu Mediterraneo) ACQUA DI PARMA 2006 EDT Boisé Vert Iris Nobile (Nobile) ACQUA DI PARMA 2006 EDP Floral Chypré Acqua Di Parma Iris Nobile ACQUA DI PARMA 2006 EDP Floral Musqué Françoise Caron Acqua Di Parma Colonia ACQUA DI PARMA 1916 EDC Hespéridé Colonia Intensa (Colonia) ACQUA DI PARMA 2007 EDC Hespéridé Cuiré Boisé François Demachy Colonia Leather (Colonia) ACQUA DI PARMA 2014 EDCC Aromatique Cuiré François Demachy Colonia Oud (Colonia) ACQUA DI PARMA 2012 EDCC Boisé Cuiré François Demachy Gelsomino Nobile (Nobile) ACQUA DI PARMA 2011 EDP Floral Vert Musqué François Demachy Mirto di Panarea (Blu Mediterraneo) ACQUA DI PARMA 2008 EDT Aromatique Hespéridé François Demachy Profumo (Nobile) ACQUA DI PARMA 2008 EDP Floral Chypré François Demachy Rosa Nobile (Nobile) ACQUA DI PARMA 2014 EDP Floral Musqué François Demachy Adidas ADIDAS EDT Adidas Action ADIDAS 1998 EDT Amore ADRIENNE VITTADINI 2006 EDP Début AIGNER 2013 EDP Ambré Floriental Thomas Fontaine Aknarf AKNARF 1994 EDT Boisé Epicé Bertrand Duchaufour Iquitos ALAIN DELON 1987 -
Training in Techniques of Creative Fragrance Formulation*
OCCASION This publication has been made available to the public on the occasion of the 50th anniversary of the United Nations Industrial Development Organisation. DISCLAIMER This document has been produced without formal United Nations editing. The designations employed and the presentation of the material in this document do not imply the expression of any opinion whatsoever on the part of the Secretariat of the United Nations Industrial Development Organization (UNIDO) concerning the legal status of any country, territory, city or area or of its authorities, or concerning the delimitation of its frontiers or boundaries, or its economic system or degree of development. Designations such as “developed”, “industrialized” and “developing” are intended for statistical convenience and do not necessarily express a judgment about the stage reached by a particular country or area in the development process. Mention of firm names or commercial products does not constitute an endorsement by UNIDO. FAIR USE POLICY Any part of this publication may be quoted and referenced for educational and research purposes without additional permission from UNIDO. However, those who make use of quoting and referencing this publication are requested to follow the Fair Use Policy of giving due credit to UNIDO. CONTACT Please contact [email protected] for further information concerning UNIDO publications. For more information about UNIDO, please visit us at www.unido.org UNITED NATIONS INDUSTRIAL DEVELOPMENT ORGANIZATION Vienna International Centre, P.O. Box 300, 1400 Vienna, Austria Tel: (+43-1) 26026-0 · www.unido.org · [email protected] ;! Hf f ,.,_,_. 1~1.! /..•~""'!f.n.;, RESTRICTED lJP/ID/SER.A/1746 2/:9C/8 22 January 1996 ORIGINAL: ENGLISH PRODUCT PROCESS DEVELOPMENT CENTRE FOR ESSENTIAL OILS Kannauj DP/IND/133/11-54 INDIA Technical report: Training in techniques of creative fragrance formulation* Prepared for the Government of India by the United Nations Industrial Development Organization. -
Cis-2-Pentenyl Pentanolide
Index A α,α-Diethylpyridine (Verdima), 261–262 Abril, 183 Absolu de Rochas, 195 Absolute of Jasmine (cis-2-pentenyl pentanolide), 40 Acetal E (acetaldehyde phenyl ethyl-ethyl acetal), 45 Acetal R (phenylethyl-alpha-propyl acetal), 45 acetaldehyde (Elintaal), 14, 45 acetals, 17 Acetomarane, 23 acetyl guaiacol (II), 106 acetyl thujopsene, 27 acetyl-1 ,5,9-trimethyl-1-5-9 cyclododecatriene (Trimofix), 28 acid, food, lactone and carmelized family, 64 α-Damascone thiomethyl ether, 69 α-Damascone [1-(2,6,6-trimethyl-2-cyclohexen-1-yl)-2-buten-1-one], 15, 19, 41, 43, 81 Adoxal (trimethylundecylenic aldehyde), 17 Agarwood, 87 agrestical family, 3, 4–5, 23–25, 50–52, 84–91, 147–154 Agrumal, 17, 125 Agrumen, 17 Agrunitril (citronellyl nitrile), 37 Agua Brava, 48 Agua Fresca by Adolfo Dominguez, 95 α-Hexyl-χ-butyrolactone, 68 α-Ionol, 247 α-Ionyl acetate, 247–248 Aire de Loewe, 116, 239 Aladinate (3-methyl-2-hexenyl acetate), 264 alcohol NU (5-ethyl-2-nonanol), 128, 212 aldehyde C.13, 5 aldehyde family, 3, 5–6, 26, 59–60, 91–92, 155–157 Aldehyde NU, 128 Aldehyde XI (p-Methylphenoxyacetaldehyde), 119 Algia, 76 algoid and marine odors, 32 Alkanyl acetate, 76 271 Perfumery: Techniques in Evolution alkoxypyrazines, 18, 44 Alliage, 42, 59, 66, 72, 73, 117 allo ocimenol (Muguol), 12 allyl cyclohexyl propionate, 43 allyl heptylate, 43 allyl phenoxyacetate, 43 allyl tiglate, 24 Alpha-Ambrinol epoxide (2-hydroxy-2,5,5-trimethyl-8,8-A-epoxy octaline), 32 alpha-cedrene epoxide (Andrane), 6, 27 alpha-hexyl-gamma-butyrolactone, 41 alpha-ionone, 16 alpha-methylene