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Home , Angkor Wat, Baksei Chamkrong, Banteay Kdei, Baphuon, Bat Chum, East Mebon

east of description some 13 kilometers east of , on the road to phnom penh, is the group of temples. this is the destination for the afternoon’s outing and transport from amansara by jeep can be arranged for about 3.00pm. the group comprises of three main temples, , which is surrounded by an active , and . jayavarman II chose (present day roluos) as one of the first capital cities of the angkor period in the 9th century. it is a great starting point for early angkorian exploration. the setting is somewhat quieter than the more popular and frequented temples within the park and is ideal for contemplative time. returning to amansara by a country road which provides the opportunity to see traditional rural life is a highlight in itself. in addition, on the road home there is one more small temple complex for the true enthusiasts, prei monti with a most unusual stone bathing pool. recent excavations suggest this may have been the site of the hariharalaya royal palace. you will arrive home at approximately 6.00pm. guests arriving into siem reap on a morning flight may wish to get started on their outings a little earlier. recommended departure for east of angkor is just after lunch with the addition of the remote temple ruin of trapeang toteung thngai. although very little of the temple remains the setting at the edge of the great lake is extremely picturesque. this , set in a bamboo forest, was possibly founded under the reign of jayavarman III and built during the 9th century. consisting of seven brick towers each containing stone pedestals from which the cylindrical linga would project. sadly all that remains of the brick towers are stone door frames and piles of red brick rubble; linga anthromorphic representations of the god shiva have gone but what does remain are a large number of stone channels, or snanadroni extensions to the yoni that collected sanctified water; ask your guide to point these out and notice the superior quality of the stone. local people have told us, the temple remained in good condition until 1970, full of marvelous statues, before the ravage of war took it’s toll. scholar’s notes if the history of angkor has greatly developed after a century of patient research, questions and theories still abound. sources of information are indeed still limited to comprehend the complexity of angkorian in its various facets. for example, is it known that there is no single direct evidence which gives the reigning name of the king who built ? thus, history looks like a long roadway at night, with some rare lamp-posts shedding light in a general direction. too often, historians confronted with this titanic framework of monuments, can only conjecture and produce their best assumptions ... hoping that the slow progress of our knowledge will not contradict them too quickly. by christophe pottier, 2006 dates & kings temple date king faith Discovery lolei late 9th century (893) / shivaism south to north preah ko late 9th century (879) hinduism / shivaism east to east bakong late 9th century (881) indravarman I hinduism / shivaism east to west preah monti 9th century jayavarman III (possibly) hinduism / shivaism east to east toteung thngai 9th-11th century jayavarman III (possibly) hinduism / shivaism east to east suggestion half-way between siem reap city and the temple of lolei, take a right hand turn up a dirt track to find the colossal modern day sandstone seated jayavaman VII, sitting atop a 30 foot high platform above a sacred termite mound. the whole spectacle is extraordinary.

10 November 2011

the great capital, description today a wake-up call at 6.00am is followed by breakfast and departure near to 6.30am. the first destination, , is a temple rarely visited. although it lacks the grandeur and intensity of better known monuments, it provides a sense of discovery as access is via a sandy track through thick forest. it contains some beautiful lintels and pediments carved with buddhist scenes. from here a walk directly to , which is described as being the epitome of the temple-mountain. its unfinished condition is due to either a lightning strike (considered an evil omen), the death of the reigning king, or, a struggle for succession. after a quick stop at a small hospital chapel (king jayavarman VII), exploration of his great capital, angkor thom commences. stopping at the victory gate a short climb onto the large enclosing wall leads to the fifth and little visited, east gate. angkor thom, one of the largest of all khmer cities, remained the capital until the early 15th century. a nearby budhha seated on a naga that was excavated from a well near the central tower of , pays respect to the ancestors and is considered a holy place for monks of the adjacent . for the final stop, away from the crowds, is the group of five monuments, four brahmanic and one buddhist, all built at different times post-. departing angkor thom by the victory gate, arrival back at amansara is at approximately 10.30am. the outing is one of our favorites, and guests often comment how they did not see any other travelers.

scholar’s notes within the walls of the old capital a dense forest now grows and giant trees have taken in the midst of ruined palaces. there are few things that can stir such melancholy feelings as the sight of palaces that were once the scene of some glorious or pleasurable event, but which are now deserted. by charles-emile bouillevaux, 1848 dates & kings temple date king faith Discovery ta nei late 12th century jayavarman VII north to north ta keo late 10th-early 11th jayavarman V hinduism / east to north century shivaism hospital chapel late 12th century jayavarman VII buddhism east to east victory gate late 12th century jayavarman VII buddhism east gate late 12th century jayavarman VII buddhism vihear bram-pi late 12th-late 13th jayavarman VII buddhism east to east loveng century preah pithu 12th-13th century suryarman II-jayavarman VII buddhism south to south

10 November 2011

the enigmatic bayon description departure from amansara is around 3.00pm with the destination the south gate of angkor thom. before entering the royal palace, there is a view of the celestial palace of , an early angkorian temple that was recently restored. it was the state temple of king udayadityavarman and has been described as the world’s largest three-dimensional puzzle. a walk through thick jungle along the outer wall of the royal enclosure brings us to the southern gopura and entrance to the palace site with the royal baths. a wonderful location to rest. it is worth noting the scattered shards of roof tiles and domestic pottery underfoot, remnants of the sovereign’s private dwellings that once filled the royal enclosure. from here a secluded path behind avoids other travelers. a walk around the elephant terrace with its scenic bas-reliefs and the terrace of the leper king which represents , the centre of the buddhist cosmos brings us to the bayon where the lower level bas-reliefs carvings are discussed. gradually circling to the inner walls, there are unfinished carvings completed after the reign of king jayavarman VII. a narrative is provided on the faces of the king. as sunset approaches, a short climb to the upper level finds the setting sun casting shadows on the array of carved faces. the driver will meet us here and have us return home by approximately 6.15pm

scholar’s notes it seems that in this place silence is imposed upon everything. we hear only the furtive sound of water as it drips from foliage and stones after the shower. my cambodian guide insists that we should leave. we have no lanterns, he tells me, on our carts, and must return before the hour of the tiger. by pierre loti, 1901 dates & kings temple date King Faith discovery south gate end 12th century jayavarman VII buddhism east to north baphuon mid-11th century (1060) udayadityavarman hinduism / east to north II shivaism royal palace 10th century hinduism south to east phimeanakas late 10th-early 11th century jayavarman V hinduism / west to west shivaism elephant 12th & 13th century jayavarman VII buddhism south to north terrace leper king 12th & 13th century jayavarman VII – buddhism south to east terrace VIII bayon late 12th-late 13th century jayavarman VII buddhism / north to south shivaism & deities

10 November 2011

ancient angkor description since arriving at Angkor, two schools of thought have emerged on how best to experience angkor wat. as a guide: if capturing the atmosphere of the temple by yourself first by moon-light and then inside alone as the sun rises is what you are after, then a recommended wake-up call at 4.30am with a prompt departure from amansara at 5.00am; the first destination being the east causeway to angkor wat. your guide will escort you through the entrance gate along a forested path and then into angkor to the 1st level and up to the 2nd level of the temple providing time for personal exploration, all being well, you should witness dawn alone (please note the guides have a tendency to talk through this magical moment and rest assured they will not be offended if you ask them to save the explanations till later). for ‘serious atmosphere’ the ‘no guide’ choice is a good option. afterwards, following a brief introduction to temple life and suryavarman II, a return to the first level which contains the bas-reliefs that feature the stories of the , and the ‘churning of the sea of milk’. the extensive panels are the main feature of the morning outing. departing angkor wat by the cruciform terrace, passing the libraries and the grand entrance pavilion before crossing the west causeway, an arrival at amansara is at approximately 8.30am. if you are not after the perfect angkor sunrise photograph and crowds of other travelers are of no concern to you then things are a little more leisurely. a suggested wake-up call at 5.00am with a departure from amansara at 5.30am, with your destination the main entrance to angkor wat and the west causeway. your guide will escort you along the cruciform terrace and to the southern library where the sun rises behind angkor wat reflecting in the pools adjacent to the great temple. once the sun has risen, the outing will continue following a very similar format as mentioned above. it should be stressed entering angkor wat from the west gate is how the majority of visitors experience this great temple, subsequently much of the atmosphere can be lost due to large crowds. scholar’s notes finally, if you have the opportunity, do not miss, by the light of the full moon, the second level courtyard of angkor wat at the foot of the central tower. by , 1944 dates & kings temple Date King faith discovery angkor wat early 12th century suryavarman II hinduism / vishnuism / buddhism east to west suggestion as this morning outing starts very early, you will most likely have completed your tour of angkor wat with time to spare. with this in mind, an option you might like to arrange is breakfast at the khmer village house opposite sras srang. if this appeals then please let us know the day before.

10 November 2011

the temple in the jungle description our departure today will be at 3.00pm directly to , one of our favorite small temples within the park, with an optional stop afterwards for those who wish to visit , a similar brick towered monument presently under restoration. please inform your guide if you intend stopping there. next is ; during the dry season entrance is through the east gate, again in the pursuit of atmosphere. the track that leads to this gate is hardly ever used by visitors and there is a tremendous sense of discovery as the temple is reached via this jungle path. then onto , one of the most popular temples in the park. once home to 615 exquisite dancers, the one hour spent within ta prohm provides the opportunity to ponder, not only in man’s ingenuity, but to witness the forces of nature as the forest has gradually taken a firmer hold over the temple ruins. it is ideal for exploration, photos and contemplative time. the temple should be quiet; glowing in the last rays of the sun. your remork driver will have you home near 5.45pm. scholar’s notes the fig tree is the ruler of angkor. over the palaces and over the temples which it has patiently pried apart, everywhere it unfolds its smooth pale branches, like the coils of a serpent, and its dome of foliage. at first it was nothing but a small seed carried by the wind to a frieze or to the top of a tower. but as soon as it could germinate it worked its like fine threads between the stones, down, down, guided by a sure instinct toward the earth, and when it reached the soil at last, it quickly strengthened and grew with the nourishing sap, until grown enormous, it forced apart, pushed out of line, and split open the walls from top to bottom. the building, defenseless, was destroyed. by george cœdès, 1943 dates & kings discovery discovery Temple date king faith dec - july aug - nov prasat kravan early 10th century (921) hashavarman I hinduism / vishnuism east to west west to west bat chum mid-10th century (960) rajendravaman buddhism west to west east to east banteay kdei late 12th-early 13th jayavarman VII buddhism east to west east to west century ta prohm late 12th-13th century jayavarman VII buddhism north to west east to west

10 November 2011

description this morning outing departs amansara by car at 6.30am. a suggested wake-up call at 6.00am is followed by a quick continental breakfast. today’s destination is to the remote temple known as banteay srei, which takes approximately 45 minutes travelling time from amansara. this temple is famous for the delicacy of . unfortunately it is quite difficult to avoid the crowds at this spectacular temple. after banteay srei, a journey back to banteay samre, we leave the main road and head east over an embankment of the ancient reservoir of the eastern . from here a short walk on a country track leads to the north gate of the temple. banteay samre is often enjoyed in solitary splendor as the day begins. on the journey home, an alternate route offers some of the most spectacular rice paddy views in siem reap. if you have the time it’s a wonderful spot to stop for a few moments. generally you return by 10.00am. scholar’s notes the citadel of the women, although most guidebooks insist in using this name is highly incorrect, the original name of this area was isvarapura (the city of shiva). it does not have anything to do with women. just a hindu temple with three towers of high quality construction. by vittorio roveda, 2002 dates & kings temple date king faith discovery banteay srei second half of 10th century rajendravarman hinduism east to east (22 April 967) banteay samre first half 12th century suryavarman II hinduism north to north suggestion the recent discovery of the wonders of buddhist wats in siem reap, away from the sandstone of angkor monuments, reveals treasures to be found. perhaps a recommended start at wat bo?

10 November 2011

the monastery of the sacred sword description this afternoon can be a little more physical with the addition of cycling if you wish, bicycles are available for part of this outing, please ask your guest assistant for further information (note this is aman style cycling, so cold towels are not far from hand). departure is at 3.00pm with the first destination being . this temple is huge, open and sprawling and usually there are not many visitors at this time of the day which makes for a wonderful afternoon visit. images abound of the ; the mythical bird of flight, grasping the tails of his adversary the serpent, naga. a narrative on the temple follows before leaving via the east entrance (please insist that your guide shows you the sacred female figures, a very special secret hidden from the world but well worth a few moments). from here a visit to banteay prei, again a very open temple set on the edge of rice fields; this temple has all the attributes of a larger temple in reduced scale. visiting banteay prei after preah khan makes an interesting comparison. next a visit to , where pools of water were believed to have curative powers. from here a leisurely return trip home past , and . these are all wonderful temples and worthy of a stop; just sit back and enjoy the ride home and view them from the comfort of your remork. the return trip takes thirty-five minutes and has us home at amansara near to 6pm. scholar’s notes generally speaking, the women, like the men, wear only a strip of cloth, bound round the waist, showing bare breasts of milky whiteness. they fasten their hair in a knot, and go barefoot – even the wives of the king, who are five in number, one of whom dwells in the central palace and one at each of the four cardinal points. as for the concubines and palace girls, I have heard that there are from three to five thousand of them, separated into various categories, though they are seldom seen beyond the palace gates. when a family has a beautiful daughter, no time is lost in sending her to the palace. by , 1296 dates & kings temple date king faith discovery preah khan late 12th century (1191) jayavarman VII buddhism north to east banteay prei late 12th-13th century jayavarman VII buddhism east to east neak pean late 12th century jayavarman VII buddhism north to north ta som late 12th-13th century jayavarman VII buddhism west to west east mebon mid-10th century (953) rajendravarman hinduism / shivaism east to east pre rup mid-10th century (961) rajendravarman hinduism / shivaism east to south suggestion deep inside a hidden recess at preah khan, steal a moment and honor the beautiful before you, light some incense, make a prayer and relax.

10 November 2011

sunrise at description a suggested wake up call at 4.30am, followed by a light continental breakfast, departing amansara at 5.00am. most travelers make the climb up phnom bakheng in the afternoon, subsequently it is very busy and much of the atmosphere is lost; sunrise is preferred to climb this sacred hill. as the state temple of the first city at angkor, phnom bakheng has a special importance as the site that yasovarman I chose to move his capital from roluos (13km southeast of siem reap). your guide will escort you to the top of the hill and provide time for personal exploration. the dawn is usually witnessed alone with views across angkor wat. afterwards a descent via the east side and walk across the park to prasat bei, a small three-towered brick temple set along the surrounding moat of angkor thom; from here a short walk to meaning ‘the bird with sheltering wings’ a small, elegant pyramid temple dedicated to the parents of king hashavarman I. usually arrival back at amansara is at approximately 8.30am. scholar’s notes standing at the bottom of phnom bakheng’s eastern staircase – the main point of entry for visitors today – one cannot fail to notice the major erosion which is now occurring. indicative of the threat facing the site as a whole, this staircase has been transformed in a few short years by one force in particular: tourism. by tim winter, 2006 dates & kings temple date king faith discovery phnom bakheng early 10th century (907) yasovarman I hinduism / shivaism east to east prasat bei 10th century yasovarman I hinduism east to east baksei chamkrong 10th century hashavarman I hinduism east to east suggestion an alternative to returning home to amansara after seeing sunrise at phnom bakheng is to enjoy an elephant ride at the south gate of angkor thom. your guide can arrange this before the tourists arrive.

10 November 2011