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©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd Cambodia Temples of Angkor p129 ^# ^# Siem Reap p93 Northwestern Eastern Cambodia Cambodia p270 p228 #_ Phnom Penh p36 South Coast p172 THIS EDITION WRITTEN AND RESEARCHED BY Nick Ray, Jessica Lee PLAN YOUR TRIP ON THE ROAD Welcome to Cambodia . 4 PHNOM PENH . 36 TEMPLES OF Cambodia Map . 6 Sights . 40 ANGKOR . 129 Cambodia’s Top 10 . 8 Activities . 50 Angkor Wat . 144 Need to Know . 14 Courses . 55 Angkor Thom . 148 Bayon 149 If You Like… . 16 Tours . 55 .. Sleeping . 56 Baphuon 154 Month by Month . 18 . Eating . 62 Royal Enclosure & Itineraries . 20 Drinking & Nightlife . 73 Phimeanakas . 154 Off the Beaten Track . 26 Entertainment . 76 Preah Palilay . 154 Outdoor Adventures . 28 Shopping . 78 Tep Pranam . 155 Preah Pithu 155 Regions at a Glance . 33 Around Phnom Penh . 88 . Koh Dach 88 Terrace of the . Leper King 155 Udong 88 . Terrace of Elephants 155 Tonlé Bati 90 . .. Kleangs & Prasat Phnom Tamao Wildlife Suor Prat 155 Rescue Centre . 90 . Around Angkor Thom . 156 Phnom Chisor 91 . Baksei Chamkrong 156 . CHRISTOPHER GROENHOUT / GETTY IMAGES © IMAGES GETTY / GROENHOUT CHRISTOPHER Kirirom National Park . 91 Phnom Bakheng. 156 SIEM REAP . 93 Chau Say Tevoda . 157 Thommanon 157 Sights . 95 . Spean Thmor 157 Activities . 99 .. Ta Keo 158 Courses . 101 . Ta Nei 158 Tours . 102 . Ta Prohm 158 Sleeping . 103 . Banteay Kdei Eating . 107 & Sra Srang . 159 Drinking & Nightlife . 115 Prasat Kravan . 159 PSAR THMEI P79, Entertainment . 117. Preah Khan 160 PHNOM PENH . Shopping . 118 Preah Neak Poan . 161 Around Siem Reap . 124 Ta Som 162 . TIM HUGHES / GETTY IMAGES © IMAGES GETTY / HUGHES TIM Banteay Srei District . 124 Eastern Baray Prek Toal Bird & Eastern Mebon . 162 Sanctuary . 126 Pre Rup . 162 Ang Trapeng Banteay Samré 163 Thmor Reserve . 127 . Western Baray Floating Village of & Western Mebon . 163 Chong Kneas 127 . Roluos Temples . 163 Kompong Pluk 128 . Around Angkor . 164 Kompong Khleang . 128 Phnom Krom . 164 Me Chrey . 128 Phnom Bok . 165 Chau Srei Vibol 165 MAN IN TRADITIONAL . COSTUME, BAYON P149 Contents UNDERSTAND Banteay Srei . 165 Kompong Luong . 235 Cambodia Today . 304 Kbal Spean . 166 Northern Cardamom History . 306 Mountains 235 Phnom Kulen . 167 . Pol Pot & the Battambang Province . 236 Beng Mealea . 168 Khmer Rouge Trials . 323 Battambang 236 Koh Ker . 169 . People & Culture . 326 Pailin Province . 248 Food & Drink . 336 SOUTH COAST . 172 Pailin 248 . Environment . 341 Koh Kong Province . 174 Samlaut . 250 Banteay Meanchey Koh Kong City . 174 Koh Kong Province . 250 Poipet 250 Conservation Corridor . 179 . Preah Sihanouk Sisophon . 252 Province . 184 Banteay Chhmar . 254 Sihanoukville . 184 Oddar Meanchey Ream National Park . .. 200 Province . 255 Kbal Chhay Cascades . 201 Anlong Veng . 255 SURVIVAL The Southern Islands . 201 Dangrek Mountains. 258 GUIDE Preah Vihear Province . 258 Koh Ta Kiev . 201 Preah Vihear City . 259 Koh Russei . 202 Prasat Preah Vihear 260 Directory A–Z . 348 Koh Thmei . 202 . Koh Rong 202 Veal Krous Vulture Transport . 358 . Feeding Station 263 Koh Rong Sanloem 206 . Health . .. 366 . Preah Khan . 263 Koh Sdach Language . 370 Archipelago 209 Kompong Thom . Province . 265 Kampot Province . 210 Kompong Thom 265 Kampot . 210 . Around Kampot . 217 EASTERN Bokor Hill Station . 218 CAMBODIA . 270 Kep 219 . Kompong Cham Takeo Province . 224 Province . 272 Takeo 224 . Kompong Cham . 272 Angkor Borei Kratie Province . 277 & Phnom Da . 226 Kratie 277 Phnom Bayong .. Stung Treng Province . 281 & Around . 227 SPECIAL FEATURES Stung Treng . 282 NORTHWESTERN Ratanakiri Province . 285 Outdoor Adventure Guide . 28 CAMBODIA . 228 Ban Lung . 286 Kompong Chhnang Mondulkiri Province . .. 294 Temples of Province . 229 Angkor Guide . 129 Sen Monorom . 295 Kompong Chhnang 229 . Seima Protected Food & Drink Pursat Province . 232 Forest . 301 Guide . 336 Pursat . 232 Koh Nhek . 302 ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd 20 ARTIE PHOTOGRAPHY (ARTIE NG) / GETTY IMAGES © IMAGES GETTY / NG) (ARTIE PHOTOGRAPHY ARTIE Plan Your Trip Itineraries Kbal Spean Ta Prohm •# É Bayon •# •# •# Beng Mealea •# Angkor Wat •# Siem Reap T o n l é É S a p •# Sambor Prei Kuk •# Kompong Thom É #_ PHNOM PENH f# É VIETNAM Gulf É of Bokor Hill RPhnom Thailand É •#Station Da Sihanoukville •# Kampot •# •# Kep 0 100 km É e# 0 50 miles 2 WEEKS Cambodia Snapshot array of eateries and some safe street food This is the ultimate journey, via eating. There’s also superb shopping at temples, beaches and the capital. It the Psar Tuol Tom Pong, and a night shift can be run in any direction, but it is that never sleeps. best followed to the letter, starting Take a fast boat to the hilltop temple in the capital, exploring the coastline of Phnom Da, dating from the pre- and winding up at the world’s most Angkorian time, and then continue south impressive collection of temples, to the colonial-era town of Kampot, Angkor. which makes a good base for this area. From here, visit the seaside town of Kep Hit Phnom Penh for its impressive (and Rabbit Island, just off the coast) and National Museum and stunning Silver nearby cave pagodas. It is also possible to Pagoda. It’s home to the most eclectic din- make a side trip to Bokor Hill Station or ing scene in Cambodia, with fine-dining visit a pepper plantation. Khmer restaurants, an international 21 PLAN YOUR TRIP IT I NERAR I ES Bayon (p149), Angkor Thom Go west to Sihanoukville, Cambodia’s before venturing further afield to Kbal beach capital, to sample the seafood, dive Spean or jungle-clad Beng Mealea. or snorkel the nearby waters or just soak Save some time for soaking up Siem up the sun. Choose from party-central Reap, one of the most diverse destina- Serendipity Beach, chilled-out Otres tions in Cambodia, with a host of ac- Beach or the up-and-coming islands of tivities on tap. Everything from cooking Koh Rong or Koh Rong Sanloem. Back- classes to Vespa tours is on offer, and track via Phnom Penh to Kompong some of these activities are a great way to and visit the pre-Angkorian brick Thom punctuate the temple tours. temples of Sambor Prei Kuk. This trip can take two weeks at a steady Finish at Angkor, a mind- blowing expe- pace or three weeks at a slow pace. Public rience that few other sights can compare transport serves most of this route, al- with. See , perfection in Angkor Wat though some of the side trips will require stone; , weirdness in stone; and Bayon Ta chartered transport or a motorbike trip. Prohm, nature triumphing over stone – 22 PLAN YOUR TRIP IT I NERAR I ES •#Banteay Srei Preah Khan Ta •# Prohm Bayon •# •# •# Angkor Wat •# Siem Reap T o n l é É S a p –# É Gulf PHNOM of # 0 50 km #_ VIETNAM Thailand e 0 25 miles PENH 23 AMIR GHASEMI WWW.FOCALFANTASY.COM / GETTY IMAGES © IMAGES GETTY / WWW.FOCALFANTASY.COM GHASEMI AMIR 1 WEEK A Tale of Two Cities If time is tight, focus on the big hitters of PLAN YOUR TRIP Phnom Penh and Siem Reap, gateway to the temples of Angkor. With two nights in the capital and three or four nights in Siem Reap, discover the best of modern and ancient Cambodia. Start out in with a look at Cam- Phnom Penh IT bodia’s contrasting history. Relive the glories I of the past at the National Museum, home NERAR to the world’s finest collection of Angkorian sculpture, and the Royal Palace, housing a I glittering array of priceless artefacts. Discover ES a darker past with a visit to the Tuol Sleng Museum and the Killing Fields of Choeung Ek, both profoundly depressing places but es- sential to understanding the modern political landscape of Cambodia. History aside, Phnom Penh is cool Cam- bodia, a dynamic if disorienting city of chic boutique hotels, funky fashion, contemporary cafes, fusion restaurants and hip bars, so spend at least two nights here to relish the scene. From the capital, take the 30-minute flight northwest to Siem Reap, or take a day-long road trip if you want to see more of the Cam- bodian countryside. The first order of business MARCUS LINDSTROM / GETTY IMAGES © IMAGES GETTY / LINDSTROM MARCUS is to spend a couple of days touring the nearby temples of Angkor, including the headline names like Angkor Wat, Bayon and Ta Prohm. Make sure you also allow some time to catch some of the support acts, like beauti- ful Banteay Srei and enormous Preah Khan. Add some activities to the mix with a zipline adventure at Flight of the Gibbon Angkor or a quad-bike ride through the rice fields. Or you could simply relax and enjoy fine dining and the lively bars in the town of Siem Reap. From authentic Khmer countryside cooking to fine French cuisine, the gastro- nomic scene in Siem Reap is something to be savoured. Extend your nights out here by exploring the lanes and alleys around Pub St. Visit one of the sumptuous spas in town to round out your stay. If you decide to travel overland between these two cities, the months from July to December are best for this – during this time Top: Banteay Srei (p165), emples of Angkor; Bottom: Independence Monument (p45), Phnom Penh the landscape is lush and green. 24 DAVID HANNAH / GETTY IMAGES © IMAGES GETTY / HANNAH DAVID 4 WEEKS The Big One Cambodia is a small country and even PLAN YOUR TRIP though the roads are sometimes bad and travel can be slow, most of the highlights can be visited in a month. Setting out from the hip capital that is Phnom Penh, pass through the bustling Mekong town of Kompong Cham before heading on to Kra- IT tie for an encounter with the elusive Irrawaddy I river dolphins.
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  • ARCHITECTURE in the REIGN of JAYAVARMAN VII Even During the Reign of Suryavarman II There Was a Brief Attempt to Lay out The

    ARCHITECTURE in the REIGN of JAYAVARMAN VII Even During the Reign of Suryavarman II There Was a Brief Attempt to Lay out The

    CHAPTER SEVEN ARCHITECTURE IN THE REIGN OF JAYAVARMAN VII Even during the reign of Suryavarman II there was a brief attempt to lay out the kingdom in a particular fashion with the creation of rest-houses (Chau Say Tevoda and Prasat Chrei, for example), but it was during the reign ofJayavarman VII that the desire to rear­ range the entire kingdom became significant and the ruler went some way towards achieving it. In 1181, when J ayavarman VII was crowned king, the Angkore­ an kingdom lay devastated by the war against the Cham, and, ini­ tially, the king could only take up residence close to Angkor in a temporary city,Jayasri, "the city of victory", which is associated with a baray1, known as the northern baray or Neak Pean. The city rampart, a solid laterite wall, is decorated with huge garudas (6 m high) carved in sandstone facing. This Vishnuite motif, for the garuda is the mount of the god Vishnu 2, probably evokes the victory of the king over the Cham, but it is also linked with the myth of the churning of the sea milk which is shown on both sides of the access path; on one side of the dyke which crosses the surrounding moat are the gods and on the other the demons who united in order to rediscover the liquor of immortality. When the work on the new city of Angkor Thom was sufficiently advanced, the king left Jayasri to take up residence in the new palace in Angkor Thom, and his earlier pro- 1 It is possible that this first installation occurred before the conversion of the king to the Buddhism.