MAGAZINE FOR CEBU PACIFIC • JANUARY 2015 OUR IS COMPLIMENTARY • JANUARY 2015 • JANUARY IS COMPLIMENTARY Eastern promises “Hala bira!” HOW TO SPEND A THE BEAT GOES ON PERFECT SAMAR AT KALIBO’S WEEKEND ATI-ATIHAN FESTIVAL 000 COVER(JE)+Spine5mm-R1.indd 1 12/12/14 6:05 pm Presenting the past Temple of 44 www.cebusmile.com 044-052 FEATURE 1 BANTEAY CHHMAR.TS_RW.TS.indd 44 11/12/14 1:25 pm Presenting the past f the son Smile travels north-west of Siem Reap to trace a centuries-old story of loyalty, intrigue and rebellion with a cast of thousands, the same story that could hold the secret to Banteay Chhmar’s second act as an exciting, off -the-grid adventure spot BY MICHAEL AQUINO ’m a person, not a mountain goat, it’s directly in front of me: the Bayon- Chhmar’s component parts steadily I tell myself as I carefully position style “face tower” known as Tower 18, succumbed to war, neglect and greed my foot on an awkwardly angled its impassive visages held high, as if until a host of international NGOs took sandstone block and shift my human vices and the caprices of nature action in the 20th century to preserve weight. My traveling companions had not laid its surroundings low. the remnants that survived. areI coping with Banteay Chhmar’s Built on shakier ground than Angkor What remains today displays a topsy-turvy walking paths better Wat, the Cambodian temple of Banteay heartbreaking beauty, precisely than I am at the moment, leaving me Chhmar was doomed even before because much of what has been “lost” to bring up the rear. In my struggle, I the last stone block fell into place in is still here, albeit scarred and battered almost forget to look up. When I do, 1216AD. Over the centuries, Banteay beyond recognition. 044-052 FEATURE 1 BANTEAY CHHMAR.TS_RW.TS.indd 45 11/12/14 1:26 pm Presenting the past Temple guide Pon Lok (at left) interprets the stories etched in stone at Banteay Chhmar; the lives of locals in the area are as compelling a backdrop as the carvings on the walls Off the beaten path built a highway system that stretched of images of Jayavarman’s son in the No tuk-tuk or public transport from Prasat Hin Phimai in the north temple’s stone-relief carvings may connects Siem Reap with Banteay (in present-day Thailand) to Angkor point to a personal — and quite tragic — Chhmar. Getting there — as with Wat in the south. Travelers to Banteay point of origin. exploring the temple itself — requires Chhmar had to venture about 50km off a solid commitment, and therein lies the nearest road; 800 years later, the Battle on the eastern wall part of its charm. A hired van picks us trip isn’t a whole lot easier to make. In the pantheon of Khmer kings, King up in Siem Reap early in the morning So why build a massive temple in Jayavarman VII stands as the greatest and we’re soon speeding west down such a remote place? Nobody can say of them all. During his 30-year reign National Highway 6 for about 100km. for sure. There may already have been about eight centuries ago, he expelled At the city of Sisophon, the van a thriving Buddhist community on Cham invaders, put down a rebellion makes an abrupt turn north, heading this site circa 800AD, long before the and initiated an ambitious building up the unfi nished National Road 56 Khmer King Jayavarman VII ordered program that gave the world Bayon, Ta and kicking up clouds of dust as we the construction of Banteay Chhmar Prohm, Preah Khan and Angkor Thom, go along. All told, three hours have in the 12th century. But the presence all in present-day Siem Reap. passed by the time we reach the moat encircling the temple complex. The journey to Banteay Chhmar, Getting to Banteay Chhmar — as with exploring the temple even at the height of its glory, was itself — requires a solid commitment, and therein never easy. The site was always out of the way, even as the Khmer kings lies part of its charm ON CHANEL TOP BY TOPSHOP LACE COVER UP AND CARGO PANTS BY AMERICAN 46 www.cebusmile.com 044-052 FEATURE 1 BANTEAY CHHMAR.TS_RW.TS.indd 46 11/12/14 1:27 pm Presenting the past Rough it HOW TO GET THERE About 160km of highway separate Siem Reap and Banteay Chhmar. Cambodia’s public transport system In most of these ventures, he had oversee lines of Khmer soldiers as they does not cover this stretch so you’ll the help of his son, the crown prince attack the Cham formations head-on. have to book a ride either through the Indravarman. A giant tableau on As the action progresses from left Banteay Chhmar Community Based the eastern wall — painstakingly to right, the Cham break formation, Tourism Offi ce or via associated tour reconstructed from the surrounding retreating to the safety of their lands agencies. rubble by archaeologists and local across a river. Bareheaded Khmer volunteers — tells the epic story of chase down fl eeing (and head-dressed) ACCOMMODATIONS the king’s battles, with Indravarman Cham, who peer fearfully over their Banteay Chhmar is too distant for constantly by his side. shoulders. a day trip. Stay overnight in one of The eastern wall is just a fragment of the villages surrounding the temple what once stood here; only about 300ft Storied stones for a more well-rounded experience. of the original 1,300ft of sandstone Once we’re past the eastern wall, Homestays can be booked via the wall remain. This is our fi rst stop in the getting to Banteay Chhmar’s Community Based Tourism Offi ce. Banteay Chhmar complex; we climb component parts requires a great deal You’ll crash on plain beds in ordinary a short wooden staircase to the wall more agility and balance. Instead of homes with no air conditioning. platform and marvel at the expansive level ground or paved sandstone, we’re Overnight stays cost US$7 per person sandstone panel before us, which traveling on jumbled blocks that litter per night. It’s US$2 for breakfast. depicts an epic battle between the the ground, the remains of Banteay Banteay Chhmar Community Based Khmer and the Cham. Chhmar’s walls. The tumbled, skewed Tourism Offi ce, tel: +855 (0)97 516 In the image, gigantic fi gures of blocks of sandstone bear witness to 5533, www.visitbanteaychhmar.org ON CHANEL: TOP BY TOPSHOP; LACE COVER-UP AND CARGO PANTS BY AMERICAN BY PANTS AND CARGO COVER-UP LACE TOPSHOP; BY ON CHANEL: TOP PROMOD BY AND BRACELET OUTFITTERS; NECKLACE EAGLE Jayavarman VII and Indravarman centuries of neglect. 47 www.cebusmile.com 044-052 FEATURE 1 BANTEAY CHHMAR.TS_RW.TS.indd 47 11/12/14 1:28 pm Presenting the past After touring the temple, Banteay Chhmar visitors can check out the area’s other top sites such as Soieries du Mekong silk factory, farther-fl ung ruins like Banteay Top and the Pol Pot Baray Ongoing work by the Global Heritage within a shorter span. As we scramble The authorities nabbed some of the Fund (GHF) has uncovered the root over the western side of Banteay thieves responsible and recovered part cause of Banteay Chhmar’s fragility: Chhmar’s inner wall, we pass one of of the pilfered wall in a covered truck terrible foundation work. “The the temple’s two surviving bas-reliefs bound for Thailand. This shipment foundations vary randomly from just a of the bodhisattva Avalokitesvara, was taken to the National Museum bed of sand in some areas to a layer of the enlightened being who emanates in Phnom Penh for safekeeping but a laterite [a type of soil] to the occasional compassion for humanity. larger portion, containing two other sandstone block,” a 2011 GHF paper Avalokitesvara was revered reliefs of Avalokitesvara, simply concluded. “If this lack of foundations throughout the Khmer Empire; devout vanished into the ether. is indeed carried throughout the Buddhists rendered the image of this Such threats are being held at complex, the extent of the collapse is great aspirant to Buddha-hood with bay, at least for the moment. Since perhaps not so surprising.” eleven heads and a thousand arms to undertaking massive restoration The surrounding jungle also played a symbolize his receptiveness to the cries work in 2008, US-based NGO Global part in Banteay Chhmar’s destruction. of the unredeemed and his willingness Heritage Fund’s (GHF) archaeologists Cracks between the stone slabs were to help the needy. An ugly hole in the and their Khmer counterparts have invaded by tree roots and creepers; as southwestern wall, jack-hammered managed to prevent further looting, the trees grew, the expanding roots away in 1998 by suspected rogue reconstruct large sections of the temple pushed the blocks apart and ultimately Cambodian Army troops, testifi es to and coordinate with surrounding brought the walls down. Human greed, the detrimental eff ect of avarice on towns to implement a community- though, infl icted greater damage Cambodia’s priceless cultural heritage. based tourism program. 49 www.cebusmile.com 044-052 FEATURE 1 BANTEAY CHHMAR.TS_RW.TS.indd 49 11/12/14 1:28 pm Presenting the past Camping, albeit in comfort and style, heightens the experience of discovery and outdoor adventure Glamp it up Khiri Travel off ers a pricier two-day “glamping” package that lets guests stay right on the Banteay Chhmar temple grounds (pictured here).