tire ofexploringtheirownfascinatinganddiverse region. Perhaps visitorsshouldlearnfromtheBengalis themselves, enthusiastictravellers whonever (Calcutta), therestits capitalKolkata ofWestBengalseessurprisinglyfew foreign tourists. spiritualistsandrevolutionaries.ers, artists, Overshadowed perhapsbythereputation of famousforitseminentwrit-and haslongbeenconsidered thecountry’sculturalheartland, spotted deerandtheelusive kingfishers, inside are RoyalBengaltiger. darting the deltarivers oftheSunderbansrunthroughworld’smostextensive mangrove forest; templesHindu andmonumentalruinsoftheMuslim nawabs(rulingprinces).Further south, mud-and-thatch villages,andvestiges ofBengal’sglorioushistory:ornate, terracotta-tiled Bhutan,NepalandTibet. peoplesandculturesinto theHimalayan ofSikkim, treks andgushing rivers ripeforwhite-water rafting. These mountainretreats offer aglimpse the Raj. Here, giants amidHimalayan andrenowned tea estates, liesanetworkofmountain stations, loopingitswaytoDarjeeling,stillasummerretreat andaquintessential remnant of of destinationsandexperiencesasWestBengal. and intothesultrymangrove deltaoftheBayBengal,few states offer sucharichrange hillsdowntothepaddyfieldsofGangeticplains Stretching fromthejaggednorthern Bengal West 136 © LonelyPlanetPublications West BengalwasthecradleofIndianRenaissanceandnationalfreedom movement, As youheadtotheplains,brilliantgreen fieldsofricesurroundbustlingtradingtowns, hill chugsupthehillsthroughBritish-era Railway The ‘toytrain’oftheDarjeelingHimalayan

„ „ „ „ „ HIGHLIGHTS

Admire intricate epics scenes fromtheHindu therapidsinawhite-water raftingtrip Ride Meanderup thewide (orwalkalongside)the Ride Enjoy360-degree views over Nepal,Sikkim ( p172) between thetea townsofKurseongand of onthe medievalterracotta templescarved down theTeesta River from Serampore, ChandarnagarandHooghly to uncover colonial andMughalrelics in on the and WestBengalfrommountaintopridges Bishnupur Singalila RidgeTrek (p142) HooghlyRiver Teesta Bazaar (p166) toy train (p141) (p158)

Bishnupur National Park Singalila Bazaar Teesta Darjeeling Chandarnagar Kurseong Serampore Hooghly WEST BENGAL 137 state tourist de- are are

(castles) . and the pandals (www.wbgov.com)

(www.wbtou rism.com) (www.wbtou

In 1947 Indian independence from Britain Indian independence In 1947 government Activities TREKKING While pleasant walks along pine-scented Bengal’s possible in all West trails are hill or- are stations, treks the best multiday ) and p168 (seeganised from Darjeeling (see p166 ). RAFTING rafting trips white-water Adrenalin-pumping and Rangeet held on the mighty Teesta are and the subsequent partition of the country the country subsequentand the of partition Bengalsaw the state of divided on religious millions of the upheaval grounds, causing of Bengalis. Climate West Bengal deluges The monsoon from September late mid-June until and the re- with the roads havoc sulting flooding wreaks the hills. plains to and railways from the Information the include those websites of Useful partment (Tibetan dumpling) eating. momo (Nov; West Bengal Hills, p145 ) Features cultural events. ) Features p145 (Nov; West Bengal Hills, (Jan; West Bengal Hills, p145 ) Colourful and around fairs and traditional dances in p145 (Jan; West Bengal Hills, (7-16 Nov; Darjeeling, p153 ) Celebrating the region’s unity with cultural shows, activities,) Celebrating the region’s p153 (7-16 Nov; Darjeeling, (late Dec; Bishnupur, p142 ) Highlights handicrafts music. and local p142 (late Dec; Bishnupur, (Naba Barsha; mid-Apr; statewide) A statewide holiday celebrates the first day in the Bengali (Naba Barsha; mid-Apr; statewide) A statewide holiday celebrates (mid-Jan; Sagar Island, p141 ) The most intense West Bengal festival; hundreds of thousands hundreds ) The most intense West Bengal festival; p141 Sagar Island, (mid-Jan; (Nov; Chandarnagar, p142 ) Honours the goddess . p142 (Nov; Chandarnagar, (mid-Aug; Bishnupur, p142 ) Draws snake charmers to honour the goddess Manasa, the central p142 (mid-Aug; Bishnupur, WEST BENGAL •• History (Dec; Shantiniketan, p143 ) Folk music, dance, theatre and songs radiate over town. and Baul songs radiate ) Folk music, dance, theatre p143 (Dec; Shantiniketan, (Oct; statewide) Across the state, especially in (Calcutta), temporary (6-8 Feb; Shantiniketan, p143 ) Crafts take at this festival. stage centre p143 Shantiniketan, (6-8 Feb; (Car Festival; Jun & Jul; Mahesh, p141 ) Celebrated by pulling Lord Jagannath’s chariot in Mahesh, 3km p141 Jun & Jul; Mahesh, (Car Festival; (Nov; Cooch Behar & the Sunderbans) Immortalises the union of Lord Krishna and Radha. (Sep & Oct; Darjeeling, p153 ) Linked to , this predominantly Nepali festival is also celebrated by Nepali festival ) Linked this predominantly to Durga Puja, p153 (Sep & Oct;Darjeeling,

raised and intense celebrations take After place to worship Durga. four colourful days, beautiful images of the 10- immersed in the rivers.armed goddess are figure of snakefigure worship. children’s festivals, jazz music and even jazz music and a contest for festivals, children’s from Serampore. Teesta Tea & Tourism Festival Festival & Tourism Tea Teesta Mela Paush Bishnupur Festival Darjeeling Carnival Darjeeling Carnival Puja Jagaddhatri Rash Mela Fulpati Fulpati and others with processions and dancing from Ghoom to Darjeeling. Lepchas Puja Durga Rath Yatra Jhapan Festival Gangasagar Mela Gangasagar Mela Magh Bengali New Year FESTIVALS IN WEST BENGAL IN WEST BENGAL FESTIVALS & Bhutia New Year Lepcha Darjeeling. Darjeeling. calendar. of Hindu pilgrims the Ganges converge where the sea, to bathe en masse. meets The British established post in a trading Bengal brought was under Muslim control History History Referred to as Vanga in the Mahabharata, the Mahabharata, in as Vanga to Referred the nawab’s army. He was rewarded by suc- was rewarded the nawab’s army. He the ceeding but after his nephew as nawab, in 1764 the British took full Buxar Battle of Bengal.of control the treachery of Siraj-ud-daula’s uncle, Mir Siraj-ud-daula’s of the treachery part of the greater who commanded Jafar, lowing year at the Battle of Plassey,lowing year at the Battle by helped of Sensing rich pickings, Siraj-ud-daula, the the Sensing pickings, Siraj-ud-daula, rich Bengal,nawab of from his capi- came down and easily took Kolkatatal at Murshidabad him the fol- defeated Clive in 1756. Robert Kolkata in 1698, which quickly prospered. quickly prospered. Kolkata in 1698, which death of Aurangzeb in 1707, Bengaldeath of became Muslim state. an independent by Qutb-ud-din, first of the sultans of Delhi, Delhi, the sultans of of by Qutb-ud-din, first the the 12th century. Following at the end of Mauryan empire in the 3rd century BC in the 3rd century empire before Mauryan cen- Guptas. For three by the being overrun AD, the around the 9th century turies from based in area controlled a large dynasty Pala Bengal Orissa, Bihar and including parts of Bangladesh.modern and this region has a long history predating the history predating has a long this region the It was part of . of Aryan invasions lonelyplanet.com