retreats offer , NepalandTibet. cultures aglimpseintotheHimalayan of , ofBhutan,thesemountain oncepart haven ofnearbyKalimpong, the quiet,orchid-growing giantsHimalayan andrenowned tea estates, liesanetworkofmountaintrails. Alongwith to ,stillasummerretreat andaquintessential remnant oftheRaj. Here, amid to thecoolerclimesofformerBritishhillstations. The trainswitchesbackandloopsitsway templesracotta-tiled Hindu andmonumentalruinsoftheMuslimnawabs(rulingprinces). mud-and-thatch villages,andvestiges past:ornate, ofBengal’sgloriousandremarkable ter- tiger. OntheGangesplainsacalmoceanofgreen paddiessurroundsbustlingtradingtowns, most extensive mangrove forest, butalsothegreatest populationoftheelusive RoyalBengal is nonethelesssurprisingthatthisrichanddiverse state receives sofew foreign tourists. revolutionaries. (Calcutta), Overshadowedperhapsbythereputation it ofitscapitalKolkata spiritualistsand famousforitseminentwriters, poets, artists, the country’sculturalheartland, Renaissance andnationalfreedom movement, erstwhileBengalhaslongbeenconsidered breadth ofsocietyandgeographyunmatchedinthecountry.As thecradleofIndian of theHimalaya. This long,narrowstate isIndia’smostdenselypopulated andstraddlesa stretches acrossthevastGangesplainbefore abruptlyrisingtowardsthemightyramparts Emerging fromthetempestuous BayofBengalinamaze ofprimevalmangroves, West Bengal Bengal West 516 © LonelyPlanetPublications As the ground starts to rise, the famous Darjeeling Himalayan Railway begins Railway itsascent torise,thefamous DarjeelingHimalayan As thegroundstarts In theWorldHeritage–listed Sunderbans,theGangesdeltahostsnotonlyworld’s

„ „ „ „ „ „ HIGHLIGHTS

Take ariver-boat journeythroughthe mysterious Savourthewarmth andglowoftheancient Capture awildrhinoceroswithyourcamera Tracethefootsteps oftradersalong Step aboardthetoytrainon earlytowitnessmorning’sfirstlighton Rise the prospect ofsighting royalty(inthe form ofatiger) the prospect under asettingorange sun terracotta temples in of from thebackofanelephantinjungles National Park rhododendron-lined trailsin the tea townofKurseong Himalayan Railway the colonialhillstationof the sacred from peaksofKhangchendzonga Jaldhapara Wildlife Sanctuary (p542) ( p535 ) asitsteams to Bishnupur Darjeeling Singalila (p521) Darjeeling (p527) (p530) Sunderbans Tiger Reserve National Park Singalila Bishnupur Darjeeling poie) with (opposite ), Tiger Reserve Sunderbans Jaldhapara Sanctuary Wildlife WEST BENGAL

517 reserve is a network to December and March to May; Lower and March to May; Lower to December Plains, October to March 80.2 million Population: 87,853 sq km Area: Capital: language: Bengali Main to go: West Bengal Hills, When October 03218-55280; admission per day Rs 15) FAST FACTS FACTS FAST „ „ „ „ „

Most cities and towns within West Bengal Most arriving by land do so on Indian Rail-Most arriving by land do % they’re known to have an appetite for humans an appetite known to have they’re typically are ), tigers p520 text, (see the boxed exception. rare very a shy and sightings are World Herit- Nevertheless, a trip to this watery with or without a glimpse is rewarding site age the big cats. Cruising the broad waterways of forest through mangrove the world’s biggest are connected by rail and bus, while over- by rail and bus, connected are jeeps ply the winding roads of crowded share the West Bengal Hills. SOUTH OF KOLKATA SUNDERBANS TIGER RESERVE concentrations of largest the of to one Home on the planet, this 2585-sq-km tigers ( to (officially estimated tigers Royal Bengal number 274) not only lurk in the impenetrable but also swim forests, the mangrove of depths Althoughthe delta’s innumerable channels. Getting There & Around Getting There & Around West Bengal who enter The vast majority ar- in Kolkata. ’s airport has rive services to Kolkata, and Guwahati, as flights to . well as daily helicopter running south has main lines ways, which and and Chennai (Madras), to Bhubaneswar and Delhi. Other rail west to Gaya, Varanasi in the north- lines connect the state to Assam east and to Jharkhand in the southwest. There also numerous long-distance busesare that connect surrounding states. Rivers from the tiny riverside town of Teesta Teesta town of from the tiny riverside Rivers in Dar- ), and can be organised p548 Bazaar ( ). p537 jeeling (see of channels and semi-submerged mangroves mangroves and semi-submerged channels of delta. river the world’s largest that is part of state gov- tourist depart- and the . Reserve •• Sunderbans Tiger SOUTH OF KOLKATA

(www.wbgov.com)

(www.wbtourism.com)

In 1947 Indian independence from Britain The British established post in a trading Bengal was brought under Muslim control History History are held on the mighty Teesta and Rangeet held on the mighty Teesta are RAFTING rafting trips white-water Adrenaline-pumping (see p546 ) and Darjeeling (see p546 (see Kalimpong p542 ). are possible in all West Bengal’s possible are hill stations, from organised are the best multiday treks TREKKING pleasant trails walks along pine-scented While Activities Information Information the include those websites of Useful railways from the plains to the hills. The monsoon deluges West Bengal West The monsoon deluges from mid- SeptemberJune until late and the resulting with the roads and havoc flooding wreaks ernment Climate Climate and the subsequent partition of the country and the subsequent of partition Bengalsaw the state of divided on religious millions of of grounds, causing the upheaval ). p50 Bengalis (see British took full control of Bengal.British took full control of He was rewarded by succeeding by his nephew as was rewarded He Buxar in 1764 the the Battle nawab, but after of at the Battle of Plassey, helped by the treachery Plassey,at the Battle helped by the treachery of who com- uncle, Mir Jafar, Siraj-ud-daula’s of the nawab’s army. part of manded the greater Murshidabad and easily took Kolkata in 1756.Murshidabad him the following year defeated Robert Clive nawab of Bengal,nawab of from his capital came down at by Qutb-ud-din, first of the sultans of Delhi, Delhi, the sultans of of by Qutb-ud-din, first the the 12th century. Following at the end of Aurangzeb in 1707, Bengaldeath of became state. an independent Muslim from around the 9th century AD, the Pala the Pala the 9th century AD, from around based in Ben- area a large dynasty controlled Orissa, Bihar and parts of gal and including modern Bangladesh. empire in the 3rd century BC in the being empire before centuries by the Guptas. three For overrun region has a long history predating the Aryan predating has a long history region the Mauryan of It was part . invasions of Referred to as Vanga in the Mahabharata, this in the Mahabharata, to as Vanga Referred lonelyplanet.com Kolkata in 1698, which quickly prospered. quickly prospered. Kolkata in 1698, which the Sensing pickings, Siraj-ud-daula, rich ment WEST BENGAL 518 (497km) To Kathmandu 31 (63km) To Patna WEST BENGAL (344km) To Varanasi Ganges 33 OT FKLAA • etBna SOUTH OFKOLKATA ••WestBengal 33

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are raised are Sunderban Tiger Camp Sunderban Tiger (pandals) organises weekly boat weekly organises boat . It provides expert guides and quality . It provides ) West Bengal Tourism Centre in Kolkata. The process may take up to in Kolkata. The process may take a 033-32935749; www.sunderbantigercamp.com; The A better option, especially if you want if you want option, especially A better % accommodation, with good food and even a onboard are excursions Tiger-spotting bar. and boats with ample shade, comfortable river sufficient stories and glasses tiger of are there Traditional entertain- you awake. to keep tea arranged are ment and walks to a local village prices range for the evenings. All-inclusive Tours vary widely in prices, so it is worth vary widely in prices, so it is worth Tours typically include re- shopping around. Tours turn transport from Kolkata, as well as all the what and necessaryfees permits, but do check is and isn’t included in your deal. 4pm Mon-Fri, to 1pm Sat) cruises during the high season (September to for 1350 per person costing from Rs January), one night and two half-days, including food and onboard accommodation. Trips with a worthwhile extra day start from Rs 2050. to sleep on dry land, is ( round; 1pm Sat) an hour and you’ll need your passport. Tours www.wbtourism.com; 3/2 BBD Bagh, Kolkata; (Tibetan contest. dumpling) –eating , with a 22488271; www (Nov; West Bengal Hills, p523 ) Features cultural events. ) Features p523 (Nov; West Bengal Hills, %

( (Jan; West Bengal Hills, p523 ) Colourful in and around traditional dances fairs and p523 Bengal Hills, (Jan; West 10.30am-4pm Mon-Fri, to 8.30am-5pm) Mangrove Interpreta- h h (7-16 Nov; Darjeeling, p530 ) Celebrating the region’s unity with cultural shows, activities, unity with cultural shows, ) Celebrating the region’s p530 (7-16 Nov; Darjeeling, (late Dec; Bishnupur, p521 ) Highlights handicrafts and local music. p521 (late Dec; Bishnupur, (Naba Barsha; mid-Apr; statewide) A statewide holiday celebrates the first day in the Bangla holiday celebrates the first day statewide) A statewide (Naba Barsha; mid-Apr; (mid-Jan; Sagar Island, p520 ) The most intense West Bengal festival; hundreds of thousands hundreds West Bengal festival; ) The most intense p520 Sagar Island, (mid-Jan; (Nov; Chandarnagar, p521 ) Honours the goddess . p521 (Nov; Chandarnagar, (mid-Aug; Bishnupur, p521 ) Draws snake to honour the goddess Manasa, charmers the central p521 (mid-Aug; Bishnupur, Reserve •• Sunderbans Tiger SOUTH OF KOLKATA (Dec; Shantiniketan, p522 ) Folk music, dance, theatre and songs radiate over town. theatre ) Folk music, dance, p522 (Dec; Shantiniketan, (Oct; statewide, p521 ) Across the state, especially in Kolkata,) Across the state, especially castles temporary p521 (Oct; statewide, (6-8 Feb; Shantiniketan, p522 ) Crafts take stage at this festival. centre p522 Shantiniketan, (6-8 Feb; (Car Festival; Jun/Jul; Mahesh) (Car Festival; by pulling Lord Jagannath’s chariot Celebrated Mahesh, in from 3km (Nov; Cooch Behar & the Sunderbans) Immortalises (Nov; Cooch Behar & the Sunderbans) the union of Lord Krishna and Radha. (admission Rs 2;

(Sep-Oct; Darjeeling, p530 ) Linked to , this predominantly Nepali festival is also celebrated by Nepali festival ) Linked this predominantly to Durga Puja, p530 (Sep-Oct; Darjeeling, West Bengal Tourism Centre figure of snakefigure worship. children’s festivals, jazz music and even a festivals, children’s Serampore ( p521 ). Jagaddhatri Puja Jagaddhatri Rash Mela Festival & Tourism Tea Teesta Mela Paush Bishnupur Festival Darjeeling Carnival Darjeeling Carnival Fulpati Fulpati Puja Durga Bengali New Year Bengali New Rath Yatra Jhapan Festival dancing from Ghoom to Darjeeling. and others with processions and Lepchas Gangasagar Mela Mela Gangasagar Mela Magh FESTIVALS IN WEST BENGAL BENGAL IN WEST FESTIVALS Year & New Lepcha and intense celebrations take After place to worship Durga. four colourful 10-armed days, beautiful images of the immersed in the rivers.goddess are Darjeeling. Calendar. of Hindu pilgrims the Ganges where converge en masse. meets the sea, to bathe

At Sajnekhali, the official gateway into the into the the official gateway At Sajnekhali, The best time to visit the tiger reserveThe best time to visit the tiger is Boats are available for hire at Sajnekhali, at Sajnekhali, hire for available Boats are .wbtourism.com; 3/2 BBD Bagh; bans Tiger Reserve. Free permits are issued at Reserve. issued permits are Free bans Tiger the Foreigners need a permit to visit the Sunder- Foreigners (fixed rate is Rs 200 per day) and a boat permit rate (fixed (Rs 50 per day). Permits Rs 1200 for a full day. You’ll also need a guide reserve, you’ll find the tion Centre transport connections to organise, and it’s and it’s transport connections to organise, boat to bear the cost of you’ll have not cheap; ) are right (see tours Organised alone. rentals the easy and comfortable alternative. pendently is difficult, with permits and tricky and watching wildlife, whether it be a spotted whether it be a spotted wildlife, and watching monitor or luminescent deer, 2m-long water away from is sublime and a world kingfisher, Kolkata’s chaos. Visiting inde- between and March. October lonelyplanet.com small turtle and crocodile hatchery, displays small turtle and crocodile hatchery, on local conservation and a collection issues pickled wildlife. of island trip to costing Rs 400 for a three-hour WEST BENGAL staging areastaging forpoints inthesouth. it’sagood fort.However, ruined Portuguese picnic spot,there besidesa isn’tmuch tosee Whileit’sapopular and flowsintoopen sea. of where Kolkata, turnssouth the Hooghly IndiaCompany,reststhe East 51kmsouth Diamond Harbour, once themainportof % DIAMOND HARBOUR at 4.30pm. busleavesutes). ThelastKolkata Sonakhali take anotherboattoSajnekhali (Rs4,10min- Pakhirala (Rs 8,45minutes). Fromthere, where there are shared cycle-rickshaws to (Rs11,1½hours,boat toGosaba hourly), for thefirst departure at6.30am.Thengoby (Rs45,three hours);a bustoSonakhali aim Ghat)it’squickest (Babu togetFrom Kolkata Getting There&Away Dormscan’tbebookedsential. inadvance. accommodation option,sobookingsare es- dank. Someprivate touroperators this use located in Sajnekhali, itsroomsare darkand incl 1meal&breakfast Rs220/550) Sunderbans asanindependenttraveller. only choice ifyou’re the determined tosee bazaar, thisdingy,bottom-endoptionisthe room Rs80-200) ther overpriced orinconveniently located. Choices fortheindependenttraveller are ei- Sleeping &Eating 3400/6280 formore luxuriouscottages. tents toRs incomfortable tripsstaying night from Rs2150/3440perperson forone-/two- 520 Kamal Kamini Kamal Sajnekhali Tourist Lodge Tourist Sajnekhali tiger population. to tigershasdroppedfromanestimated 200ayeartoabout30,despite an(official)increasing prey.so-happy known toclimbaboardfishingboats,whichare anchored midstream, andabscondwithnot- swimmingprowessmeanfishermenareextraordinary notimmune;atnighttigershave been and woodcutters wearmaskspainted withhumanfacesonthebacksoftheirheads. The tigers’ days aswidows;onlywhentheirhusbandsreturn dotheydontheirmaritalornamentation. from theman-eaters. intheSunderbans have Wives even ofmenworking tolivingtheir taken revere alike DakshinRoyandtheforest thetiger-god saviourBonobibi,whoprotects them For thosewholive andworkintheSunderbans,tigersare oflife. aneveryday part Muslimsand LIVING AMONG TIGERS 03174 /pop37,238 OT FKLAA • imn abu SOUTH OFKOLKATA ••DiamondHarbour Thanks tostrategic perimeter fencing nearvillages,thenumbersofhumandeathsattributed Since tigersare they’re toattackiftheysuspect lesslikely beingwatched,honeycollectors Located farawayinGosaba’s

( % 03128-236035; dwithshared bath-

( % Whileperfectly 03218-214960; dm/d rooms withmosquitonetsandadecentres- here, near the Kapil MuniTemple, honouring yearthe Each souls byflowingover theirdustyremains. at SagarIslandthattheGanges revived their duced KingSagar’s60,000sonstoashes,itwas According tolegend, after thesage Kapil re- % SAGAR ISLAND 30minutes.and goevery better roomshave theirbacktotheocean. Rs 700; Lodge; night ortwo.night fora It’s rather run-down,but comfortable the is thecolourfulfishing village of butOKforastroll.Anhour north and exposed, Thewhite-sand Kolkata. Bakkali is abeach townlocated 132kmsouthof % BAKKALI landing tothetemple (Rs25,45minutes). runthe30kmfromferry Sagar Island.Buses ferry to (Rs6,25minutes) theHooghly crosses Hardwood Point(Rs20,onehour),where a ing themela. various ashrams.Note thatpricessoardur- include aratherdark,dankyouthhostel and (mainsRs20to80).Otherchoices taurant ( the legend. % Buses from Kolkata (Rs24,1½hours) fromKolkata come Buses Centre Diamond HarbourTourist A few beach minutes’ is walkfromBakkali’s From DiamondHarbour, take abusto ofWithin sight thetemple, 03210 03210 /pop185,301 Bakkali Tourist Lodge Tourist Bakkali 240226; dmRs100,d360-600) % a /fax 255246;dmRs80,dfrom300,withAC ) is a satisfactory overnight isasatisfactory stop.The Book accommodationonlineatlonelyplanet.com Gangasagar Mela Gangasagar (

% beach 225260; dm/dRs80/400) haslarge, clean is rather desolate isratherdesolate Larica SagarVihar Larica ( p519 ) isheld Namkhana (Sagarika Tourist Tourist (Sagarika . .

WEST BENGAL

521 temples

(admission Rs is a bold Vasudev Temple 252013; dm Rs 80, d museum % ( is a typically sleepy )

dawn to dusk) a that’s worth a look for h , particularly the stylised Bankura pottery 11am-7pm Tue-Sun) 03244 / pop 61,943 DURGA’S BATH BATH DURGA’S things is the goddess of all Since Durga sur- it shouldn’t come as a and beings, required list of ingredients prise that the ) is p519 ( Puja Durga the for rituals during the For instance, one. a long and strange than no less bath requires goddess’ daily range from extracts These of bitter 75 items. off lotus pollens to fruit and dew collected Yes, door. soil from beneath a prostitute’s door! It’s be-from beneath a prostitute’s their virtues that men leave behind lieved establishment, thus such an when entering It’s one. making soil a potent the doorstep’s symbolises also thought that this ingredient of Bengali inclusion of all levels the festival’s of bathing instead society. Fascinatingly, clay image itself, the bath is given Durga’s to a mirror holding her reflection. Regular buses run to Kolkata (Rs 60, five Bishnupur is in Bankura district, famous Bishnupur Tourist Lodge h from Rs 300, with AC Rs 650; markable rooms. It’s close to the museum and ride from the train station.a Rs 20 rickshaw (Rs 65, five and to Shantiniketan hours) daily trains run to Kolkata (2nd Three hours). (Indian/foreigner Rs 5/100; (Indian/foreigner Bengali,mix of Islamic and Orissan styles. In- temples numerous detailed façades of tricately epics Ramayanaplay out scenes of The most striking temples and Mahabharata. the multi- Mohan, the Jor Bangla, Madan are Shyam and the elaborate Rasarched Mancha (the tours Rai. offer Cycle-rickshaw-wallahs lanes) the labyrinth of best way to negotiate a small for Rs 100. There’s stone friezes, manuscript covers, its painted musical instruments and folk-art gallery. for its horse, and Baluchari silk saris. terracotta tiles covering the terracotta tiles covering those seenresemble in Bishnupur. BISHNUPUR % temples, Known for its beautiful terracotta the Malla as the capital of flourished Bishnupur kings from the 16th to the early 19th centuries. these intriguing of The architecture government-run hotel with adequate, unre- with adequate, hotel government-run 10;

, )

Ser- a , where , where sikharas Bansberia

(admission free; (admission free; Chandarnagar 8am-5.30pm) , with collections Digha Tourist Lodge h look like something you’d look like was exchanged by the Dutch by the Dutch was exchanged •• Up the Hooghly NORTH OF KOLKATA there are impressive colonial impressive are there (admission Rs 4;

Hansewari Chinsura , 41km north of Kolkata, which became Kolkata, which , 41km north of

266255; fax 266256; d from Rs 300, with AC Rs 700; 266255; fax 266256; d from Rs 300, Cultural Institut de Chandarnagar Imambara 03220 11am-5.30pm, closed Thu & Sat)

About 6km north of Hooghly, of 6km north About The bright, balconied A government bus departs from Kolkata’s bus departs A government In 1537 the Portuguese set up a factory in Several buses run daily from Kolkata’s Es- % expect to see in St Petersburg, while the ornate while the ornate expect to see in St Petersburg, has two interesting temples. The 13 temples. has two interesting at (spires) island of Sumatra in 1825. There is a fort and Sumatra in 1825. There island of 1km to the west. cemetery, a Dutch Hooghly, for the British possessions on the (Indonesian) ing was constructed in 1836 to host the Shiite to host the Shiite in 1836 ing was constructed Muharram. Only 1km south of procession of the the build- away. The your breath the view will take 1632 by Shah Jahan, but were allowed to re- but were Jahan, 1632 by Shah of minarets Climb the lofty turn a year later. rose to prominence. After a lengthy siege, the a lengthy siege, rose After to prominence. expelled from HooghlyPortuguese in were Hooghly Kolkata an important trading port long before h and the 18th-century mansion now housing the where you can visit the Eglise du Sacre Coeur du Sacre you can visit the Eglise where buildings and a remarkable cast-iron gate cast-iron gate buildings and a remarkable by the Danish king. Further upriver donated outpost of is the former French to the East 1845. At India Company in ampore College Serampore was a Danish trading centre until trading centre was a Danish Serampore transferred Denmark’s holdings in India were UP THE HOOGHLY UP THE HOOGHLY Kolkata, 25km north of On the Hooghly River, NORTH OF KOLKATA NORTH OF KOLKATA ( this is not a spot for a surf. A less crowded this is not a spot for a seaside can be found 14km north hideaway at Shankarpur. Digha, the ‘Brighton of the East’, the the ‘Brightonlocated is of Digha, Bengal, on the Bayof of 185km southwest the city, it’s a nice escape from While Kolkata. DIGHA DIGHA % four hours). Esplanade for BakkaliEsplanade 69, at 7am (Rs daily lonelyplanet.com documenting this colonial outpost. offers the best value, but look at a few rooms the best value, but look at a few offers as they vary widely. hours). planade (Rs 75, five WEST BENGAL government-run hotel iscentral,simpleand south of theuniversity, daily.The and Kolkata 2km Bolpurstation, trains plybetween Several Getting There& Away Embika the dimlylitbardownsideof the dishes. andcontinental Indian, Chinese above theothers withagoodrange though, of Its restaurant (mains Rs50to100)isacut floored cottages are smallandcanbedamp. looks great fromtheoutsidebutstone- Rs 800,withAC1400; a few SouthIndiandishes. Rs 35to80)dishes curries,including up tasty you couldorderabeer. Therestaurant (mains and there’s agardenforrelaxing andwishing The ground-floor roomsare cool, pleasantly hotel hasthebestandcleanestroomsaround. with ACRs250/300/700; lack lustre dishes (mainsRs40to100). and therestaurant hasavery limited range of are indifferent thestaff though clean enough, Bhubandanga; dm/d/dwithACRs80/350/850; streets of Bhubandanga andJamboni. There are optionsinthequiet leafy several Sleeping &Eating of Tagore’s titles(Rs80toRs250)inEnglish. The bookshopatthemaingate hasplenty ifyou’reworth apeek anaficionadoof Tagore. 10.30am-1pm Tue) lery byhim.The that itwasused glass-walled garage, bythefact itsfate sealed car, ablackHumber,sitssilentlybehind a Murals are thecelebrated eclecticstatues, relationship withnature. University, withanemphasisonhumanity’s which later intotheVisva-Bharati developed text, p75 ) foundedaschool here in1901, (niketan) name, which meanspeaceful Shantiniketan istheepitomeof itsBengali % SHANTINIKETAN est departat7.30amand5.30pm. class/chair Rs84/278,fourhours); thequick- 522 Shantiniketan Tourist Lodge Tourist Shantiniketan Spread theleafyuniversity through grounds About theonlyplaceto get is acoldbeer Chhuti HolidayResort Santiniketan Hotel 03463 (admission Rs5; OT FKLAA • hniiea OFKOLKATANORTH ••Shantiniketan andthe

(Bhubandanga) . . Rabindranath theboxed (see in the Uttarayan complexare intheUttarayan Tagore PrayerHall h a a . 10.30am-1pm &2-4.30pmThu-Mon, ( % Thisboldandbalconied ) Thiscluster of cottages )

( % 254434; Bhubandanga;s/d/d 252692; Jamboni;dfrom ( %

museum . Oddly,Tagore’s 252699; fax252398; (shanti) Shantiniketan Shantiniketan a and art abode This ) Hotel Hotel gal- interior deserves alook. interior deserves onthepalacegrounds; itsrenovatedstands andhewasassassinated herecapital, after the Murshidabad washis was nawabof Bengal, of theBhagirathi River. WhenSiraj-ud-daula century architecture meldontheverdant shores In lifeMurshidabad, and18th- ruralBengali % MURSHIDABAD &BERHAMPORE five hours; ringfordetails). (Rs135, runs aprivate busto/fromKolkata Iskcon GuestHouse movement. There’s alarge temple andthe is acentre fortheIskcon(Hare Krishna) here fromGaur. moved Sen, hiscapital Lakshman of Bengal, centre of Sanskritculture. ThelastHinduking tracting throngsof and isanancient devotees, Krishna pilgrimagean important centre, at- Nabadwip , 114kmnorthwestof is Kolkata, % NABADWIP &MAYAPUR hours) andBishnupur (Rs65,five hours). gotoMurshidabad (Rs45,four merous buses chair Rs126/425)departingat11.28am.Nu- hours) departingat9.30amor2503(2ndclass/ 5657(sleeper/3ACbetween Rs190/505,eight 1.10pm fromBolpur. ToNewJalpaiguri choose hours) departingat10.10amfromHowrahand best are 2337/8(2ndclass/chair Rs72/235,2½ tor’s Gate). Within the ruins of the of town,beneath thestairs attheimpressive here in1705,isburiedadifferent section 13th century.Thedilapidated rests alustrousArabic manuscriptfromthe Victoria.from Queen IntheArchive Gallery a vastchandelier, rumoured to have agift been thelofty domeofBeneath DurbarHall hangs Marshall’s celebrated ries, includinghistoricalpaintingssuch as of antiquitiesfromthe18thand19thcentu- anastonishingcollection 1837. Itnowhouses wasbuilthereand false), forthenawabs in Sat-Thu) and theportof 221kmsouth. Kolkata, the major trading route inlandIndia between River andwasonce flowssouthtotheHooghly (nowPalashi).defeat atPlassey TheBhagirathi assassinated atthe Across theriver fromNabadwip, Mayapur Murshid whomoved QuliKhan, thecapital Hazarduari Hazarduari 03482 /pop36,894 03472 /pop115,036 , apalacefamousforits1000doors (real Book accommodationonlineatlonelyplanet.com

Katra Mosque Katra (Indian/foreigner Rs5/100; (

% Nimak Haram Deohri 245620; d/qRs100/350) Burial ofBurial Sir John Moore Kathgola Gardens Kathgola . Siraj-ud-daula was Great Imambara Great h 10am-5pm , which (Trai- (admis-

. WEST BENGAL tomb 523 and Adina Qadam Lattan (1425). The (1480), while remnants (1480), while remnants , so-called because it cost Rs . and the intact arcaded aisle enshrines the flat footprint of enshrines the flat footprint of (1707) startlingly informs you (1707) startlingly informs you Dakhil Darwaza mosques

Tantipara Mosque Tantipara , once India’s largest mosque. Within mosque. , once India’s largest 0353 / pop 655,935 / elev 119m North of Pandua (18km north of Malda) Malda) north of (18km Pandua North of The monuments are spread throughout throughout spread The monuments are Wander through the ruins of the impressive impressive the Wander through of the ruins The best train from Kolkata train from The best (Sealdah sta- SILIGURI & NEW JALPAIGURI SILIGURI & NEW JALPAIGURI % vibrant, crowded trading hub encom- The Siliguri and New passing the twin towns of (NJP) is the jumping-off point for Jalpaiguri Darjeeling, Sikkim, the northeast Kalimpong, Nepal and Bhutan. For most states, eastern Chamkati Masjid and domed bays an intact arched section of (1364–79), the Sikander Shah sits the tomb of away is the 2km About this mosque. builder of Eklakhi mausoleum 1 lakh (Rs 100,000) to build. the worst along some of Gaur and Pandua roads in India; it’s worth hiring a taxi from for half a day (Rs 500). Malda WEST BENGAL HILLS (16km south of Malda) are mosques and other are Malda) (16km south of to 16th-century capital the 13th- of vestiges from Little remains the Muslim nawabs. of period, pre-Muslim the 7th- to 12th-century the successive when Gaur was the capital of Sena and Hindu dynasties. Buddhist Pala Mosque Baradwari its corridor, or beneath the fortress-like of of gateway Rasul Mosque The adjacent the Prophet Mohammed. Khan of Fath blood and died on this spot’. that he ‘vomited the terracotta façade motifs grace Lotus-flower of the enamel cling to the colourful of the 14th-century the vast ruins of are hours), departing 9.05am Tuesday, Thursday Thursday 9.05am Tuesday, departing hours), New Jal- Train 2503 continues to and Sunday. at departing 91/301, four hours), paiguri (Rs to Kolkata, the 2066 take 3.05pm. If returning 122/390, sevento Howrah (Rs depart- hours), to Saturday. Busesing 6am Monday depart Ber- (Rs 110, six hours), for Siliguri regularly hours) (Rs 53, five hampore/Murshidabad and Kolkata (from Rs 120, 10 hours). GAUR & PANDUA Gaur fields of from the flooded paddy Rising tion) is 2503 (2nd class/chair Rs 111/372, six six Rs 111/372, class/chair 2503 (2nd tion) is This hotel This is the BENGAL HILLS •• Siliguri WEST & New Jalpaiguri ) ) is a friendly is the quietest is the quietest a a ) a 268104; Station Rd; s/d from has standard rooms ) is an interesting Jain Jain interesting is an 252388; fax 251505; 22 KJ Sanyal 266183; NH-34; s/d from Rs 250/ % ( a 270321; d Rs 300-400)

251147; NH-34 Panchanantala; s/d Panchanantala; 251147; NH-34 % % (

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6.30am-5.30pm) h

03512 / pop 161,448 Hotel Pratapaditya Hotel Samrat

Hotel Purbanchal Hotels are scattered along the highway and scattered are Hotels Continental Lodge Shared autorickshaws (Rs 10) whizz be- Shared Hotel Manjusha Berhampore is 11km south of Murshidabad Murshidabad Berhampore south of is 11km 300, with AC Rs 500/575; rather small, but you can pay extra that are for a TV space. and more and a good Indian and continental restaurant and a good Indian and continental restaurant (mains Rs 35 to 75). from the train station It of- (Rs 4 by rickshaw). rooms, has helpful staff, a wide variety of fers option and is just off the highway,option and is just off only 500m offers bright, clean rooms for every budget. offers Rd; s/d Rs 150/250, d with AC from Rs 500; the bus station; it opposite almost directly lodge around the bus and train stations. ient base for visiting the ruins of Bengal’sient base for visiting the ruins of former capitals in nearby Gaur and Pandua. mangoes ri- is also famed for its Fajli Malda pening in spring. % Kolkata, is a conven- 347km north of Malda, MALDA MALDA rickshaw-wallahs offer guided half-day offer rickshaw-wallahs tours for Rs 100. sites to see the spread-out tween and Berhampore. Cycle- Murshidabad Regular buses leave for Kolkata56, six (Rs Regular buses leave hours). (Rs 45, five and Malda hours) Kolkata (2nd class/chair Rs 71/236, four Kolkata Rs 71/236, four (2nd class/chair Sealdah departing from hours), station (Kolk- ata) at 6.25pm and Berhampore at 6.24am. Getting There & Around Getting There & Around to/from train 3103/4 a daily express There’s the Bhagirathi, behind the Great Imambara. behind the Great the Bhagirathi, rooms while cheapest, rooms are Downstairs views. and Hazarduari river 201 to 203 have in Murshidabad sits gloriously on the bank of on the bank of sits gloriously in Murshidabad of satisfactory rooms and a basic restaurant satisfactory rooms and a basic restaurant of (mains Rs 20 to 120). best place to stay in Berhampore, with a range The few hotels here have private bathrooms private have here hotels The few hot water. with bucket Sleeping & Eating Eating Sleeping & and acts as its bus and railway hub. and acts as its sion Rs 7; sion Rs 7; Book accommodation online at lonelyplanet.com online at accommodation Book from Rs 150/200, d with AC from Rs 600; from Rs 150/200, d with AC from Rs 160/225, d with AC Rs 650-1200; Parswanath Temple and a museum. Temple Parswanath WEST BENGAL h Sadar Hospital MEDICAL SERVICES Net-N-Net Net-India Cyber Space 20; Beauty DotCom ACCESSINTERNET Information Hong KongMarket area. and BidhanRds,which boundthebustling Rd are Siliguri’s othermainstreets, whilebranchingstation, eastwardoffHillCart RdleadssouthwardtoNJP Rd. NJPStation better knownbyitsoldmoniker, HillCart vices are spread along Tenzing Norgay Rd, Most of Siliguri’shotels, restaurants andser- Orientation ofand aglimpse snowypeaks. where there are goodmeals, great shopping travellers, Siliguriisanovernight transitpoint 524 h Singalila National (180km) To Malda Bhadrapur BIHAR Kakarbhitta Sabarkum NEPAL Park WEST BENGALHILLS h 9am-10pm) 10am-8.30pm) Digital-camerafriendly. Tonglu Panitanki Rammam ETBNA IL • Slgr e apiui &NewJalpaiguri WEST BENGALHILLS••Siliguri Mana Bhanjang Darjeeling 9am-10pm) Coolandfast. Rimbik Rangman Ghoom Jorethang (Sify iway; 22 Hill Cart Rd;perhrRs30; Cart (Sifyiway;22Hill Mirik River (Hill Cart Rd;per hrRs25; Cart (Hill Islampur (Hotel Vinayak, Hill Cart Rd;perhrRs30; Cart (Hotel Vinayak,Hill Bagdogra ( Bazaar Naya % Kurseong Tiger Hill (Hotel Empees,BidhanRd;perhrRs B ANGLDESH SIKKIM Rangeet 2436526, 2585224; HospitalRd) River 31A Teesta Bazaar Jalpaiguri New Siliguri Gangtok 31 Kalimpong

Teesta D ARJELING Jalpaiguri Teesta

h River Lava River 9.30am-9.30pm) Samthar Plateau J ALPIGUR Kaffer Haldibari Chengrabandha Mirik. Kurseongand brochures on Darjeeling,Kalimpong, office withuseful(ifdated) Afriendly Mon-Fri) (DGHC; 8.30pm) USB connection andCDburning (Rs50). 8.30pm) USBconnection (hidden just north ofthebank). (hidden justnorth Cook) exchanged.ATMs Rds Cart onBidhanandHill Express andThomas travellers cheques(onlyAmerican exchanged. 9.30pm) Currency andtravellerscheques h Delhi Hotel MONEY Darjeeling Gorkha Hill Council Tourist Office Council Tourist Hill Darjeeling Gorkha TOURIST INFORMATION post office General POST Cyber Space Photo labsare Rd. abundant on HillCart PHOTOGRAPHY UBI BankATM BankofIndia State h Langkapara

10am-3.30pm Mon-Fri, till1pmSat)Currency and 10am-3.30pm Mon-Fri, 7am-7pm Mon-Sat,10am-3pmSun) Teesta Hat Madarihat

B HUTAN

% R 2518680; Hill Cart Rd; Cart 2518680; Hill ( (Hotel Vinayak, Hill Cart Rd; Cart (HotelVinayak,Hill % Torsa (Hill Cart Rd) Cart (Hill B EHAR C OH River 2516918; Hill Cart Rd; Cart 2516918; Hill Totopara Hollong Jaldhapara Phuentsholing Sanctuary Wildlife ( Jaigon ( % on thismaphavenotbeenauthenticated % 30miles 50km 0 0 Buxa Tiger The externalboundariesofIndia Reserve 2538850; HospitalRd; 2431364; Hill Cart Rd; Cart 2431364; Hill and maynotbecorrect. Cooch Behar h Alipur Duar Buxa Duar lonelyplanet.com 10am-4.15pm h h 7am- 10am- 31

A S S A M WEST BENGAL 525 24 Pradhan 11 1 Nagar Rd Scale 17 5

NH31 Rd NJP Station Rd Approximate

Tilak Station (1.5km) 6 19 26 25 7 10 13

4 B

16 21 3 Siliguri

Bidhan Rd Bidhan Stadium 8 New Jalpaiguri Train Sevoke Rd Sevoke Hill Cart (Tenzing To Kalimpong (70km) 27 To Hotel Breeze (1km);

9 Rd Norgay) Rd 20 Hospital

Siliguri Town Train Station 2 Rd 22 23 18 15 14 12

00 500 m 0.3 miles

B2 B1 B3 B3 B1 B1 B2 B2 B2 B3 B3 B1 B2 B3 B2 B1 B3 B2 B3 B2 B2 B2 B3 B2 B2 B1 B3 Burwan 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 14 15 16 17 18 19 20 21 22 23 24 25 26 27 Siliguri

(80km) Junction

To Darjeeling River Mahananda Mahananda A Jeep Stand...... Indian Airlines...... Jet Airways...... (see 18) Kalimpong Jeep Stand...... SNT Terminal...... Tenzing Norgay Central Bus Terminal...... (see 22) Tourist Service Agency...... Train Booking Office...... West Bengal Tourist Office.. Siliguri Gurdwara...... Conclave Lodge...... Hotel Apsara...... (see 19) Hotel Chancellor...... Hotel Conclave...... Hotel Hill View...... Hotel Sinclairs...... Hotel Skylark...... Hotel Vinayak...... Khana Khazana...... New Ranjit Hotel...... Sartaj ...... (see 20) Hong Kong Market...... Beauty Dot Com...... Cyber Space...... (see 18) (DGHC) Tourist Office...... Delhi Hotel...... General Post Office...... Tourist Office...... Net-N-Net...... Sadar Hospital...... Sikkim Tourist Office...... (see 25) State Bank of India...... UBI ATM...... Eminent Restaurant...... (see 14) Darjeeling & Kurseong Darjeeling Gorkha Hill Council Government of Assam INFORMATION SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES SLEEPING EATING SHOPPING TRANSPORT SILIGURI 5 2 3 1 6 4 To (12km); To Bagdogra Airport Panitanki (30km); Kolkata (600km)

This is 10am-5pm BENGAL HILLS •• Siliguri WEST & New Jalpaiguri (Pradhan Nagar (Pradhan h 2511979; % ( 2512646; SNT Terminal, Hill 2512646; SNT Terminal, 2432372; cnr Sevoke & Hill Cart 2514102; Hill Cart Rd; s/d from Rs 2519951; Hill Cart Rd; s/d from Rs % ( 2691136; NJP Station Rd; d from Rs % 2514252; 18 Patel Rd; s/d Rs 150/200) 2514252; 18 Patel (

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10am-4pm Mon-Sat) Issues permits for Sikkim10am-4pm Mon-Sat) A rarity in Siliguri – a budget hotel hotel A rarity in Siliguri – a budget Tucked away behind the more visible the more away behind Tucked h 10am-4.15pm Mon-Fri)10am-4.15pm no phone, two A desk, Less than a 10-minute walk (Rs 7 rickshaw Less walk (Rs 7 rickshaw than a 10-minute h Conclave Lodge Hotel Breeze Hotel Hill View Hotel Chancellor Hotel Apsara (see p541 ). If you apply in the morning, your permit will ). If you apply in the morning, p541 (see the afternoon; by typically be ready bring your passport and one passport-sized photo. Cart Rd; 180) has a ride) north from NJP station, this hotel rooms from the simple, bare-bones of range comfort. All type to those with a little more should travellers doubles, but solo rooms are ask for a discount. helpful manager, and the handful of basic basic and the handful of helpful manager, spa- bathroom) are rooms (one has a private cious and clean. with some charm. This vintage 1951 accom- This vintage with some charm. with a friendly and modation comes complete 150/250) A block behind busy Hill Cart this clean, Rd is and quiet option (most simple, inexpensive squat toilets). bathrooms have its brighter, quieter rooms. The older sectionits brighter, quieter trafficcops a fair bit of noise. A TV costs Rs 50 per night. a no-frills but friendly Tibetan-run place. place. but friendly Tibetan-run a no-frills for a room in the newer section,with Ask though several hotels have geysers (hot-water (hot-water geysers though several have hotels heaters). Most budget options have rooms with at- options have Most budget toilet of bathrooms and a choice tached usually comes in buckets, design. Hot water BUDGET BUDGET along Hill Cart Rd, with most congregated near along Hill Cart Rd, with most congregated central bus terminal. Norgay the Tenzing Dozens of budget and midrange hotels are are hotels and midrange budget Dozens of Sleeping West Bengal Tourist Office TouristWest Bengal Office Sikkim Tourist Office Sikkim Tourist Office Government of Assam Tourist Office Rd; men, three chairs and five pamphlets. chairs and five men, three Book accommodation online at lonelyplanet.com online at accommodation Book [email protected]; Hill Cart Rd; Mon-Fri) who can also book Helpful staff (if prodded), Sanctuary Wildlife accommodation for the Jaldhapara helpful information 11am and 4pm. Less ) between p527 ( also at the airportdesks are and NJP train station. Hotel Conclave, this lodge has spotless, quiet has spotless, this lodge Conclave, Hotel bathrooms. rooms with private 200/350) Rds; s/d from Rs 125/250, new block s/d 370/400) WEST BENGAL is served to yourtable. is served There’s a bar,andalcohol top-notch service. rate andcurries NorthIndiantandooris A coolandsophisticated restaurant withfirst- chilly. theACzas, though can make italittletoo pumps outgreat delicacies andpiz- tandoori Rs 45-110; includes plentyof vegetarian options. andSouthIndian specials pizzas andChinese is anicelunch spot.Theextensive menuof 85) also available. veg dishesarecies. NorthIndianandChinese andotherSouthIndiandelica- derful dosas vegetarian restaurant istheplacetofind won- Rs 25-70) choice ismore limited. withyourcurry,the if youwantacoldbeer Siliguri hasplentyof goodrestaurants, though Eating cool pool. rant-cum-bar andthechance todive intoa a littletired, butthere’s anexcellentrestau- the busterminal. Theroomsare spacious,if of Rd,about 2kmnorthofnoise HillCart able three-star hotel languishes farfromthe off NH31;s/dfromRs1870/2310; (see Eminent Restaurant below ). are spotlessanddownstairs istheexcellent expected external glasselevator. Therooms fine woodwork,qualitymattresses andanun- a Rd;s/dfromRs500/600,withAC750/900; Cart Hill rooms are particularlygoodvalue. fan-coolednon-ACrant. Thecomfortable, with spotless roomsandapretty goodrestau- Rs 400-700,withAC900-3200; Stadium. rooms andleafybalconiesoverlooking Siliguri firm-bedded optionthatsportssomebright han Rd,Hotel Skylarkisacleanandtidy, s/d Rs400/500,withAC700/800; with ageyser. andaprivate bathroom All roomsboastaTV MIDRANGE &TOPEND 526 Thisrelaxed restaurant’s patio secluded Eminent Restaurant Eminent Restaurant Hotel New Ranjit Sinclairs Hotel Conclave Hotel Vinayak Hotel Skylark Hotel Sartaj Sartaj Khazana Khana ) Thissparkling,contemporary hotel boasts ETBNA IL • Slgr e apiui &NewJalpaiguri WEST BENGALHILLS••Siliguri Beneath Sartaj (see Sartaj (see Beneath below ), thisbusy ( h % 7am-11pm; 2431759; Hill Cart Rd,mainsRs75-140; Cart 2431759; Hill

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2431130; fax 2531067; Hill Cart Rd;d Cart 2431130; fax2531067;Hill ( 2517674; www.sinclairshotels.com; 2535388; fax2537641;1Tilak Rd; 2516144; www.hotelconclave.com; % (Hotel Conclave, Hill Cart Rd,mains Cart (Hotel Conclave,Hill 2517516; Hill Cart Rd; mains Rs 35- Rd;mainsRs35- Cart 2517516; Hill

a 2431785; Hill Cart Rd,mains Cart 2431785; Hill ) as Thisstylish eatery a a ) Afriendlyhotel Thiscomfort- ) Justoff Bid- ) a

) .net) Pradhan NagarRd) utes, 10kg luggage limit) go from Bagdogra utes, 10kgluggage limit)gofromBagdogra Guwahati (Rs1474). to Delhi (Rs3974),andthree aweek flights (daily), Delhi(daily)andGuwahati(four Service Agency Service Wednesday). Youcanbuytickets from Saturday, Sunday)and2pm(Monday,Friday, to Gangtokat1.30pm(Tuesday,Thursday, per week). 5.30pm Mon-Sat) ( to Guwahati(US$103,50minutes). five toDelhi(US$268,fourhours) andthree (US$138,onehour), toKolkata aweek flights Rd; Cart Indian Airlines airport Bagdogra is12kmwestof Siliguri. AIR Getting There&Away spread Rd. along HillCart fromlettereverything rackstolounge suites known foritscane-ware, andyouwillfind goods atsmugglers’ prices.Siliguriisalso ket inSiliguriwhere youwillfindimported HongKongMar- tothehigh-rise NJP station andtraditionalhawkers’bright market near There are numerousmarkets here, fromthe Shopping for Kalimpong (Rs70,2½hours) there’s a look around andopposite thebusterminal; 2½ hours) (Rs50,1½hours), andKurseong (Rs80, number of forDarjeeling stands: jeep around thehillsis byshare There jeep. are a A faster andmore wayof comfortable getting JEEP ( Tourist InformationCentre p525 ). available inSiliguriatthe adjacentSikkim If travelling toSikkim,you’ll require apermit (Rs 90)departinghere at7amand12.30pm. terminal at 8.30am,10amand1.30pmfromthe toGangtok(Rs70,4½hours)buses leave listed includethose services opposite . routes. NBSTC plyingthesame vate buses bus central busterminal tion (NBSTC) leave buses from TransportCorpora- State Most NorthBengal BUS % Daily helicopter flights (Rs2000,30min- Daily helicopter flights Transport(SNT)Sikkim Nationalised has daily flights to Kolkata (Rs1974)and toKolkata hasdailyflights 2538001; www.jetairways.com; Hill Cart Rd; Cart Hill 2538001; www.jetairways.com; h

(Hill Cart Rd) Cart (Hill 10am-1pm &1.45-4.30pmMon-Sat) Book accommodationonlineatlonelyplanet.com Air Deccan

hassimilarfares toKolkata ( , close totheDelhiHotel. , close (TSA; (TSA; % . There are alsodeluxe buses 2511495; www.indianairlines.in; Hill 2511495; www.indianairlines.in; Hill (Hill Cart Rd) Cart (Hill %

( 2531959; [email protected]; % 39008888; www.airdeccan , asdomanypri- Tenzing Norgay has three hasthree Jet Airways Jet h Tourist Tourist 9am- SNT

WEST BENGAL . 527 This (per person (per person

262228; d Rs 1000, 262239; Indian/for- tours 262230; dm Rs 300, protects 114 sq protects A very basic op- A very %

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departs 10am Sat) h 03563 / elev 61m 03563 / elev Hotel Relax The West Bengal Tourist Office in Siliguri Jaldhapara Tourist Lodge Hollong Forest Tourist Lodge The best time to visit is mid-October to is mid-October The best time to visit

Getting There & Away Getting There & Away Siliguri. Buses is 124km east of Jaldhapara from Siliguri to Madarihat the route frequent hourly 6am to 4pm), 9km hours, (Rs 60, three to A taxi from Madarihat from Jaldhapara. Hollong inside the park is Rs 150. through the West Bengal Tourist Office in Siliguri, Darjeeling or Kolkata. Tourist Lodge, the Jaldhapara tion opposite and squat toilets.with OK beds, cement floors cottage Rs 650, d Rs 1000) is hotel Development Corporation (WBTDC) All near Madarihat. outside the park precincts Rooms included in the room rates. meals are the better newer wing are in the characterless option. The old wing has musty, dark rooms. & dinner) plus compulsory Rs 180 per person for breakfast is the most comfortable option and is located for within the park itself. is available Lunch an additional Rs 75. May, particularly in March and April when and April in March particularly May, seen) (rarely wild elephants, deer and tigers Your best by new grass growth. attracted are an ele- aboard is spotting a rhino of chance per hour); Rs 120/200 phant (Indian/foreigner lodges by the tourist booked these safaris are ). If staying you’ll be last elsewhere, below (see in line for elephant rides. ( p525 ) organises overnight Rs 2050; Sleeping & Eating well in advance should be booked Lodges Getting Around Around Getting station to NJP train the bus terminal From a taxi/autorickshaw while costs Rs 200/90, 50 for the 35- Rs charge cycle-rickshaws between Bagdogra airport trip. Taxis minute cost Rs 300. and Siliguri WILDLIFE SANCTUARY JALDHAPARA % visited rarely This eigner Rs 25/100; grasslands along the Torsa and forests km of 50 Indian one- for over and is a refuge River rhinoceros horned include an elephant ride, transport, accom- modation and all meals. 2505 is 2537333; cnr Sanctuary Wildlife Jaldhapara HILLS •• WEST BENGAL % (

New Jalpaiguri Sealdah Sealdah New Jalpaiguri 2344 (sleeper/3AC Rs 263/ 2344 (sleeper/3AC North East Express NorthEast 8-11.30am & noon-8pm Mon-Sat, h train booking office . 2504 (2nd class/chair Rs 111/372, four 2504 (2nd class/chair Darjeeling Mail Darjeeling 60 3½ every 30min Berhampore 167 9 every 3½ 60 Darjeeling Guwahati 277 6.45am, 12 30min Kalimpong50 3 Kolkata 220-250 12-16 5pm every Kurseong 40 2 hourly Madarihat 60 6-8pm 6½ 3 2½ hourly hourly Malda 112 hourly Mirik45 14 245 Patna 5pm 8pm & 9pm (Rs) (hr) Fare Destination Duration Frequency (Rs) NBSTC BUSES FROM SILIGURI SILIGURI BUSES FROM NBSTC There’s a There’s Chartering a jeep privately costs roughly costs roughly a jeep privately Chartering Kurseong ( p530 ). p530 ( Kurseong catch the steam version to Darjeeling from version the steam catch 9am). It’s wise to make reservations9am). It’s wise to make (booking days 2nd/1st class Rs 15/30) two to three fee in advance at NJP station or the train book- you can is your passion, If steam ing office. from New Jalpaiguri to Darjeeling in nine from New Jalpaiguri (2nd/1st class Rs 42/247, departs long hours Toy Train Toy Train ) climbs the 80km p535 The diesel toy train ( 27 hours, departs 4.35pm), travelling via Patna via Patna departs 4.35pm), travelling 27 hours, Eastward,(Rs 235/604, 11 hours). train 2506 Rs 214/544, Guwahati (sleeper/3AC reaches 9am). departs eight hours, hours, departing 9.45am Monday, Wednesday hours, and Saturday). The Rs 441/1185, to Delhi (sleeper/3AC the fastest Express 684, 11 hours, departs 8pm), which stops in departs 8pm), which 684, 11 hours, op- A better (Rs 154/375, four hours). Malda the is tion for Malda The fastest of the four daily services of The fastest to Kolkata is the TRAIN TRAIN 10 times that of a shared ticket. An option An option ticket. a shared 10 times that of is to pay for and Westerners for XL-sized seatsoccupy all the front three the next to driver. four hours) jeeps leave from next to the SNT from next to jeeps leave four hours) terminal. stand on Sevoke Rd; and for Gangtok (Rs 120, Book accommodation online at lonelyplanet.com online at accommodation Book Hospital & Bidhan Rds; to 2pm Sun) WEST BENGAL Rd, Krishnanagar; perhrRs30) Rd, Krishnanagar; changing facilities inMirik. banana trees of andstands bamboo. Perched complex steps tothediminutive ference. Onthewestsideof the lake, climbthe and there’s awalkaround its 3.5kmcircum- Mirik iscentred ontheartificial Sights &Activities zonga (8598m). of morning’sfirst strikingKhangchend- light hilltopsofferMirik’s higher wonderfulviews remains off mostvisitors’ radars. Someof Japanese cedars. Itisaquietretreat that andforestsdamom plantations of dark tall, carpet of tea estates, orange orchards, car- tion. Mirikissurroundedbyanundulating profile andhoneymoondestina- hillstation isthislow- SiliguriandDarjeeling, tween Nestled neartheNepalborder,halfwaybe- % MIRIK 528 Check emailat se p1168). (see and connection to Bhadrapur contact toBhadrapurcontact and connection Foronwardairtransport hasregular flightstoKathmandu. 23kmsouthwestofKakarbhitta, airport, there (NRs530)andotherdestinations. are Bhadrapur numerousbusestoKathmandu Kakarbhitta exchange isavailableata from 6amto7pm.See p542 Foreign forinformationonbusesfromDarjeelingtoKathmandu. isopen border postinPanitanki isofficiallyopen24hoursandtheNepalpostinKakarbhitta (Rs50)arethe busterminal. readily Share availableinSiliguri.The Indian JeepstoKakarbhitta border townofPanitanki buses(Rs35)leave (Rs20,onehour).More fromoutside comfortable For Nepal, localbusespasstheTenzing Norgay centralbusterminal every 15minutes forthe To/From Nepal leave dailyforPhuentsholling 7.30am,noon,2pm,3pm). (Rs65,departures Bhutan hasacounter insideTenzing Services Transport Norgay centralbusterminal. Fourbuses To/From Bhutan andNewDelhi(see be obtainedinKolkata p1167 ). Visas BograandDhaka. the borderpostyoucancatchbusesontoRangpur, forBangladeshcan change there forChengrabandha. The borderpostisopenfrom8amto6pmdaily.Fromnear Take aprivate busfromoutsidetheTenzing Norgay centralbusterminal toJalpaiguri(Rs40)and At thetimeofresearch there was nodirect busfromSiligurito the borderatChengrabandha. To/From Bangladesh CROSSING INTOBANGLADESH,BHUTAN &NEPAL www.tourism.gov.bt andLonelyPlanet’s Indian nationalsneedavalidvisaauthorityfromBhutanesetouroperatortoenter Bhutan.See is inJaigon .com) 0354 /pop9179elev1767m ETBNA IL • Mrk WEST BENGALHILLS••Mirik in Kakarbhitta. Visas for Nepal can be obtained at the border, or in Kolkata orNewDelhi Visas forNepalcanbeobtainedattheborder,orinKolkata inKakarbhitta. , set among moss-covered, set evergreens, , next to next Krishnanagar CyberCafé Krishnanagar Hotel Kasturi . There are nomoney- Hindu Devi Devi Hindu Sthan temple Nepal Bankcounter Sumendu Lake

( % Jhapa Travel Agency 03566-363035; fax263254;NSRd;sRs300,d375-1000) (Main (Main Bhutan

fordetails. ( h Mirik. Some rooms have balconies andviews of Su- doubles upstairs pluslarger familysuites. 600) buckets costRs10. and there’s agreat rooftop terrace. Hot-water Therooms areSamden Restaurant. spotless budget hotel downasmalllaneopposite d withgeyserRs350) dropbyupto50%inthelowseason. these (October toNovember andMarch toMay); areroom. Pricesstated season forthehigh All roomsmentionedhave aprivate bath- agar, thecompactarea tothesouthof thelake. Most hotels crowdthemainroadof Krishnan- Sleeping &Eating Rs 80/160) the bridge and Gompa abovehigh Mirik,therichly painted 7am-5pm) Lodge Ashirvad Hotel Ratnagiri Hotel Pedal boats Ratnagiri hassomewarm, wood-panelled Ratnagiri gazesover thetown. are offered forvarioustripsaround

closetotheborder. Onwardfrom ( % Book accommodationonlineatlonelyplanet.com

(per 30minRs60) 98320221020; jhapatravels@hotmail pony rides (

Avery friendlyandclean % ( % 2243272; dmRs75,s/d150/250, 2243243; s/dwithgeyser Rs400/ (half/full round-the-lake trips trips (half/full round-the-lake

Indian immigration canbehired near . Non- Bokar Bokar WEST BENGAL ,

ani 529 Cyber- Tue-Sat) . h

and Kashyup Com- run by St Mary’s Grotto , 2330181; 2330703; www.imperi 2344409; d Rs 800, with or you can enjoy %

% This lodge exudes exudes This lodge ( ( %

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2345862; Hill Cart Rd; d Rs 300, Hill Cart Rd; per hr Rs 25) (Kurseong Train Station; snacks Rs momos,

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Tucked into the cute sta- the cute into Tucked This budget option is found option is found This budget (Hill Cart Rd; per hr Rs 30)

) Forestry Museum i Cochrane Place Kunsamnamdoling Gompa Kunsamnamdoling 8am-7pm) This exceptional boutique hotel sur- This exceptional boutique hotel Makaibari Estates Tea h (Hotel Delhi Darbar,

Glenary’s Junction Kurseong Tourist Lodge You can check your email at You can check o 10-25; Darjeeling’s cake of favourite tion is a branch shop. Sit down for biscuits, brownies, cakes, hot snacks, or browse and assorted coffee tea, the Darjeeling photos of Himalayan the great Railway’s glory days. alchai.com; 132 Pankhabari Rd; s/d from Rs 1750/2000, mains Rs 40-120) a destination Siliguri is the twinkling lights of colonial in its own right. This much-extended and individu- antique furniture is full of chalet will be rooms. Trainspotters ally decorated room is (each in Pandim beside themselves peak). The own- a Himalayan named after which their kitchen, rightly proud of are ers the Raj and all meals are of tastes re-creates the tariff either as set menus, part of available is wheelchair friendly, The hotel or à la carte. airport (Bagdogra) and train station provides local knowledge pick-up, and has a wealth of to point you towards trails and sights in the region. Sleeping & Eating Sleeping & Eating Hotel Delhi Darbar and by the bucket comes the carpet), hot water loos. sit-down, flush some bathrooms have balcony Rs 900, mains Rs 30-80) wood-lined rooms that with warm, character views. stunning and feature polish smell of The toy train whistles past the café where you can snack on cuppa and a fine a cold beer, a refreshing Indian, Chinese or continental its meal at scenic restaurant. affords splendid views down the Teesta and affords Teesta down the views splendid Rd, Pankhabari Along to the south. the plains poignant has at St Andrews the graveyard era, while the or- the tea-planter of reminders ganic Old to its aromatic factory. welcomes visitors above abound on the ridge colonial buildings town, and the and the visiting. well worth (Buddhist nuns) are puters & Systems rounded by tea plantations and overlooking plantationsrounded by tea and overlooking just uphill from the train station.just uphill from the train It’s friendly and passably only they would ditch clean (if mains Rs 25-50; zone

a . 354- 0 momos % (

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2243231; www.jagjeethotel.com; (thukpas in Darjeeling. Prices are in Darjeeling. Prices are These luxury, two-storey These luxury, two-storey Eagle’s Crag % (

A great ‘local’, next to the Jagjeet, Jagjeet, ‘local’, next to the A great . 0354 / pop 40,067 / elev 1458m 5.30am-9pm) There are numerous good walks in the area, numerous good walks in the area, are There Hill Cart Rd (Tenzing Norgay Rd) – the main Norgay Hill Cart (Tenzing Rd Samden Restaurant Mirik Orange County Retreat Hotel Jagjeet including one to thoroughfare from Siliguri to Darjeeling from Siliguri thoroughfare – and its close shadow, the railway line, wind through and paneer tea town passing sellers ‘suitings and shirt- and tiny cubicles where Here machines. sewn on chattering ings’ are shop. you will struggle a souvenir to find It is the southern terminus for the steam- It is the southern terminus the toy trains of powered Railway this area – is also home to several churches – is also home to several churches this area estates. tea and is surrounded by renowned derived from the Lepcha word derived prolific in orchid to the small white reference crowds of Darjeeling.crowds of its name – Kurseong Kurseong, 32km south of Darjeeling, 32km south of Kurseong, is the the Hills further the Queen of of little sister for those stopover up the track. It is a great to the jostling looking for a quiet alternative % lakeside shack at the base of the main road. at the base of shack lakeside KURSEONG (Rs 50, 2½ hours) and Kurseong (Rs 60, three (Rs 60, three and Kurseong (Rs 50, 2½ hours) can be purchased from the Tickets hours). and Siliguri (Rs 45, three hours). Share jeeps Share hours). and Siliguri (Rs 45, three to Darjeeling depart regularly and Siliguri Buses leave for Darjeeling (Rs 45, three hours) for Darjeeling hours) Buses (Rs 45, three leave drawing monks and those in love with drawing monks and those in love and noodle soups Getting There & Away h based additional guests on double occupancy; cost Rs 300. advisable to book through 2257554; fax 2257556) ship and surrounding countryside, including ship and surrounding countryside, a room it is To ensure Khangchendzonga. incl tax Rs 1300-1800) afford the town- cottages glorious views of continental dishes. most with balconies, and attentive service. and attentive most with balconies, is deservedly restaurant The streetfront pop- ular, serving Indian, Chinese excellent and d from Rs 750, mains Rs 30-115; d from Rs 750, mains rooms, with a variety of in Krishnanagar hotel mendu Lake; all have TV and geyser. There’s There’s TV Lake;mendu have all geyser. and (mains Rs the back out restaurant a garden 30 to 90). Book accommodation online at lonelyplanet.com online at accommodation Book WEST BENGAL perfect site they were forasanatorium; sure that itwouldbea word to Calcutta passed monastery, onatranquilforested ridge, and Ling ish officers stumbledacross theDorje any future borderdisputes. Sikkim inexchange forBritish control over pany thenreturned mostof thelandsbackto gained controlof theregion in1816.Thecom- IndiaCompany battles,theEast after several led togrowingconflictswiththeBritish and, aggressiveThe ’ territorial expansion fromNepal. nexed bytheinvadingGurkhas (kings) of Sikkimuntil1780,whenitwasan- This area belonged totheBuddhistchogyals History are pleasant. are dry,panoramasare clearandtemperatures (mid-March totheendof May) whenskies (October andNovember) andduringspring and provide magnificentviewpoints. superb treks which trace ancienttraderoutes faraway.Fortheadventurousnever there are brew andexcellentIndianTibetan fare are nir andhandicraftshops, andagoodsteaming row streets are crowdedwithcolourfulsouve- and azooforHimalayanfauna. nar- Thesteep dhist andHindutemples,gardens botanical explore colonial mansionsandchurches, Bud- gazing atKhangchendzonga (8598m),youcan premier drawcard.Whenyouaren’tBengal’s oftypal hillstation West isrightly Darjeeling a splendidHimalayanpanorama,thearche- andbackedrounded bytea plantations by Draped over ridge, asteepmountain sur- % DARJEELING departs at11.55pm. Siliguri (2nd/1stclassRs30/166,fourhours) to train(originatinginDarjeeling) A diesel ing atNewJalpaiguri) departsaround1.17pm. versionpermitting, whilethediesel (originat- Rs 25/144,fourhours) leaves at6am,weather toy train ( p535 (2nd/1stclass ) forDarjeeling and Siliguri(Rs40,2½hours). (Rs25,twohours) forDarjeeling train station (Rs 60,2½hours). leave Buses fromnearthe limpong (Rs100,3½tofourhours) andMirik 40, 1½hours), Siliguri(Rs50,1½hours), Ka- Numerous share (Rs runtoDarjeeling jeeps Getting There&Away 530 During onesuch dispute in1828,two Brit- Most touristsvisitafter themonsoon steam Himalayan Railway’s The Darjeeling 0354 /pop109,160elev2134m ETBNA IL • Dreln WEST BENGALHILLS••Darjeeling Delhi have theintroductionanddropping seen glings over itsrelationship and withKolkata ings. Meanwhile theDGHC’s internal wran- and DGHC have of accused politicalkill- been Since2001boththeGVCfor fullsecession. (GVC),Volunteers’ Cell have continuedtocall tion (GLO)anditsarmedwing,theGorkha breakaway LiberationOrganisa- Gorkhaland tonomy fromthestategovernment. Hill Council(DGHC) alarge measure of au- Gorkha granted thenewlyformedDarjeeling washammeredmise outinlate 1988,which Acompro- toastandstill. Darjeeling brought NationalLiberationFront(GNLF) 1986, violenceandriotsorchestrated bythe of state a separate inthe1980s.In Gorkhaland tion withthestate government ledtocallsfor andfric- the mainpoliticalforceinDarjeeling labourers from Nepal. ofmainly because amassive influxof Gurkha reachedpopulation of 10,000, Darjeeling andby1857the andtea plantations, houses wasborn. station IndiaCompanyin1835andahill the East theuninhabited landto dom) happilyleased Sikkim (stillgrateful forthereturn of hisking- intheregion.importance TheChogyalof the main shoppingstreet, headssouthfrom route toGhoom.Nehru Rd(akatheMall), enand headssouth pastthetrainstation Institute,and HimalayanMountaineering itleadsnorthtowardsthezooChowk Bazaar major vehicle thoroughfare. Fromthechaotic which runsthelengthof town,isDarjeeling’s Rd. foot viaHDLama to thenorthwest,reached on fromChowrasta dous viewsof Khangchendzonga. Thezoolies Bhakta Sarani,fromwhere there are stupen- HillandskirtingthehillisBhanu Observatory Northof istheforestedjeeling. thefocalpointofChowrasta, VictorianDar- atmospheric andopensquare knownas offlights steps. Nearthetopof townisthe in awebof interconnecting roadsandsteep sprawlsoverDarjeeling awest-facing slope Orientation (GHCD). HillCouncil, Darjeeling Gorkha ofacronym), andtheproposal anewcouncil: of ‘Autonomous’initsname (andan‘A’inits to have alsomentioneditsstrategic military Although this appeased some Gurkhas, the someGurkhas, thisappeased Although Forest graduallymadewayforcolonial Hill Cart Rd(akaTenzingHill Cart Norgay Rd), After Independence, the Gurkhas became After Independence,theGurkhas lonelyplanet.com WEST BENGAL 531 Gangtok (94km)

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R d WEST BENGAL C4 B5 B5 B5 C4 B5 C3 C3 C3 C4 B5 B6 B4 B6 C3 B5 533 53 54 55 56 57 58 59 60 61 62 63 64 65 66 67 68 69 2254218; 2255099; % 2254327; % (Map p532 ; p532 (Map % (Map p532 ; p532 (Map 9am-5pm Mon-Fri, ( Map p532 ; p532 Map ( h ( Map p532 ; p532 Map ( (Map p532 ; Nehru Rd; per hr Rs 30; ; Nehru Rd; per p532 (Map 24hr) Public hospital and emergency 24hr) Public Chowk Bazaar Bus/Jeep Station.. B3 Darjeeling Transport DRINKING ENTERTAINMENT SHOPPING TRANSPORT Hayden Hall...... Market Stalls...... Nathmull's Tea Rooms...... Souvenir Shops...... Souvenir Shops...... Souvenir Shops...... 55) Trekking Shop...... (see Clubside Taxi Stand...... Clubside Taxi Stand...... Computerised Reservations Counter...... (see 22) Darjeeling Himalayan Railway (Toy Train)...... (see 22) Corporation...... Diamond Tours &Travels...... Indian Airlines Office...... (see 31) Kasturi Tours & Travels...... (see 68) Taxi Stand...... Hotel Lunar...... (see 34) Hotel Lunar...... (see 34) Kunga Restuarant...... (see La Casse Croute...... Park Restaurant...... 51) Buzz...... (see 35) Elgin...... (see 51) Glenary's...... (see House of Tea.... Goodricke, the Joey's Pub...... 49) Windamere Hotel...... (see Inox Theatre...... 6) Das Studios...... (see (Map p532 ; Laden La Rd) Accepts most p532 (Map h C2 C6 B6 C3 B4 C4 C5 C4 C4 B2 B1 C3 C2 C4 C4 C4 B5 B5 A1 C4 C3 C6 C3 C3 B4 C5 C2 C4 24 25 26 27 28 29 30 31 32 33 34 35 36 37 38 39 40 41 42 43 44 45 46 47 48 49 50 51 52 2256035; HD Lama Rd; 7.30am-8pm) Found within Glenary’s ( p540 ). p540 7.30am-8pm) Found within Glenary’s ( department. Nehru Rd) For serious medical problems, this is the best private hospital. 9am-1pm Sat) Traditional medicine – located within Hotel Seven Seventeen. Bazaar Cart Rd; % h MONEY MONEY Hotel Seven Seventeen ICICI Bank ATM Digital Doughnuts MEDICAL SERVICES D&DMA Nursing Home District Hospital Darjeeling MedicalTibetan & Astro Institute international bank and credit cards. There’s another ATM another ATM There’s cards. international bank and credit ). p532 on HD Lama Rd (Map 26 HD Lama Rd) Exchanges most currencies and travellers 26 HD Lama Rd) Exchanges most currencies cheques (Amex and Thomas Cook). SLEEPING EATING Main Olde Bellevue Hotel (New Main Olde Bellevue Hotel (Old Manjushree Centre of Tibetan Manjushree Magistrate Office of the District Hotel Alice Villa...... Hotel Long Island...... Hotel Pagoda...... Hotel Polynia...... Hotel Seven Seventeen...... Hotel Shangrila...... Hotel Valentino...... Building)...... Building)...... Maple Tourist Lodge...... Mayfair Hill Resort...... Pineridge Hotel...... Windamere Hotel...... Dekevas Restaurant...... (see 34) Frank Ross Café...... Frank Ross Pharmacy...... (see 50) Glenary's...... Hotel Chanakya...... Hill Cart Rd Jeep Stand...... Hill Cart Culture...... (ODM)...... Planters' Club Darjeeling...... Pony Stables...... Travels & Treks..Samsara Tours, 55) Trek Mate...... (see B5 Andy's...... Bellevue Hotel...... Classic Guesthouse...... Crystal Palace Hotel...... Dekeling Hotel...... Elgin...... Fortune Resort Central...... (Map p532 ; p532 (Map 2254422; Market Rd) B2 C1 B1 A6 A6 C3 A4 B5 B4 C3 B5 B5 B5 B4 B5 B5 B5 B5 C4 B5 C2 C4 A3 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 % 19 20 21 22 23 10 11 12 13 14 15 16 17 18 9.30am-7.30pm, closed (Map p532 ; Chowrasta) p532 (Map h ( Map p532 ; Chowrasta Rd; per hr p532 Map ( (Map p532 ; ; p532 (Map WEST BENGAL HILLS •• Darjeeling (Map p532 ; Gandhi Rd; per hr Rs 30; p532 (Map 9am-8pm) h 2254325; Chowrasta; 8am-8pm) Digital-camera friendly. SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES INFORMATION Bengal Natural History Darjeeling Himalayan Railway (Toy Foreigners' Regional Registration Darjeeling Gorkha Hill Council (DGHC) Darjeeling Gorkha Hill Council (DGHC) Darjeeling Gorkha Train)...... Dhirdham Mandir...... Darjeeling Gymkhana Club...... Museum...... Bhutia Busty Gompa...... West Bengal Tourist Bureau....(see 31) State Bank of India ATM...... Tibetan Medical & Astro 41) Institute...... (see State Bank of India...... State Bank of India ATM...... Poddar's...... Police Assistance Booth...... Sadar Police Station...... Oxford Book & Stationery 61) Company...... (see 48) Pineridge Travels...... (see ICICI Bank ATM...... ICICI Bank ATM...... Main Post Office...... Himalayan Travels...... 41) Hotel Seven Seventeen...... (see District Hospital Darjeeling...... District Hospital Office...... Tourist Reception Centre...... Tourist Reception Das Studios...... 51) Digital Doughnuts...... (see Booth...... Compuset Centre...... Home...... D&DMA Nursing Bellevue Cyber Café...... (see 31) Cyber Café...... (see Bellevue & Travels...... Clubside Tours Sun in low season) Unquestionably the best bookshop in Darjeeling, selling a vast selection of books and maps on Nepal, Sikkim, Bhutan and the Himalaya.Tibet, % Compuset Centre INTERNET ACCESS INTERNET ACCESS Bellevue Cyber Café Police assistance booth Police assistance Sadar Police Station EMERGENCY EMERGENCY BOOKSHOPS Oxford Book & Stationery Company leads to Hill Cart Rd) and Gandhi Rd (which leads to Hill Cart Rd) and Gandhi Rd (which at a junction hotels) accesses many cheap called Clubside. Information Chowrasta, meeting Laden La Rd (which lonelyplanet.com Rs 30; h WEST BENGAL 8pm) Memory cardreader andCDburningforRs50. 8pm) Memory h The centre alsohascountersatthetrainstationandMall. organised andthebestsourceofinformationinDarjeeling. well- 4.30pm Mon-Satlowseason)Thestaffare friendly, h Jaldhapara NationalParks. Airways agent. It’salsoaJet and Manas Assam, andwildlife toursinKaziringa, and Arranges treks andtoursinWestBengal,Sikkim www.clubside.in; JPSharmaRd; Himalayan Travels Himalayan destinationsfromSiliguri. 7pm) Booksbusestovarious % Diamond Tours&Travels Centre Reception DGHC Tourist Clubside Tours&Travels and theirspecialitiesincludethefollowing: trips andotheractivities).Reliableagencies tours (andsomecanalsoarrange treks, rafting Most travel agencies here canarrange local TRAVEL AGENCIES Bureau West BengalTourist Centre Darjeeling Reception CouncilTourist Hill Gorkha TOURIST INFORMATION postoffice Main POST h Das Studios Compuset Centre PHOTOGRAPHY BankofIndia State and isaWesternUnionmoneytransfer agent. currencies andtravellers cheques. It accepts credit cards theStateBank’srateandchangesmost Matches Poddar’s 534 % in Chowrasta (Map in Chowrasta(Map p532 ) thatacceptVisacards. IthasanadjacentATMRs 100pertransaction. andanother and poundssterling).Thecommissionrateis by Amex(inUSdollars)andThomasCookdollars dollars andpoundssterling,travellerschequesissued h rafting trips atTeesta trips rafting BazaarnearKalimpong. Information above organisedtoursand various ) Offers expeditions in DarjeelingandSikkim. companyarranging treks andmountaineering Experienced Rd; 18Gandhi [email protected]; including those at Jaldhapara Wildlife Sanctuary ( including thoseatJaldhaparaWildlife Sanctuary p527 ). 3) andcanbookaccommodationatgovernmentlodges, Little usefulinformationbutsellsabasicmapoftown(Rs 9am-7pm Mon-Sat,10am-1pmSunhighseason,10am- 9am-5pm) Reliable parcel service andposterestante. parcelservice 9am-5pm) Reliable 9832094275; Old Super Market Complex; 9832094275; OldSuperMarket 9am-6pm Mon-Sat)Film andprinting. 2254102; Chowrasta; 10am-4pm Mon-Fri, to2.30pmSat)ChangesonlyUS 10am-4pm Mon-Fri, ETBNA IL • Dreln WEST BENGALHILLS••Darjeeling (DGHC; Map (DGHC;Map (Map (Map p532 ; LadenLaRd; (Map (Map p532 ; (Map (Map p532 ; (Map (Map p532 Rd; ; Gandhi p532; (Map (Map p532 ; (Map (Map p532 ; LadenLaRd; h % % (Map (Map p532 ; (Map (Map p532 ; 10.30am-4.30pm Mon-Fri) 10.30am-4.30pm Mon-Fri) 2254004; NehruRd; 2255351; Jawahar Rd West; RdWest; 2255351; Jawahar % h (Map (Map p532 ; % 2252076; LadenLaRd; h (see Tourist (seeTourist 8.30am-6pm) 2256956; 9am-9pm) h % h 8.30am-7pm) h 2254646; 8am- 8am- various destinationsfromSiliguri. various Complex; Super Market trekking trips. trekking and rafting Helpful andknowledgeableagencyoffering % is truly spectacular andhasbecomeamajoris trulyspectacular abovejeeling, Ghoom. Hill and Janu earlyandget (7710m),rise to (8475m), Khangchendzonga, Kabru (6691m) Everest (8501m),Makalu (8848m),Lhotse stretch of Himalayanhorizon,including 250km youreyesonaspectacular To set TIGER HILL tory Hill,canbestunninginclearweather. aroundthenorthsideofChowrasta Observa- along Bhanu Bhakta Sarani,which runsfrom peaked snowfortress’. Viewsfrom derived fromtheTibetan wordsfor‘bigfive- Thename‘Khangchendzonga’ is mountain. peakandtheworld’sthird-highest highest is dominated byKhangchendzonga, India’s Theskyline are abigattractioninDarjeeling. As Himalayan withotherhillstations, views MOUNTAIN VIEWS Darjeeling. See p542 for information ontrekking around Sights &Activities &Treks Samsara Tours,Travels Tours&Travels Kasturi along the way. visitingthegompas inGhoom to Darjeeling, Hill andthenspend theirdaywanderingback Rs 65/450perperson/jeep. before yougo. Return tripscostaround lowing youtocheck whetherskiesare clear 4amand4.30am,al- Rdsbetween La Laden going toTiger Hillfrom alongGandhior It’salsopossible tojumponajeep stand. directly drivers withjeep attheClubsidetaxi be booked atravel through agency ( left ) or Looponthewayback)can detour toBatasia to 40,includingacupof chai). of theheated lounges inthepavilion (Rs20 the pavilion grounds,orbuyaticket forone in summit, youcaneitherpayRs5tostand around4.30am.Atthe season during thehigh for Tigering Darjeeling morning Hillevery tourist attraction,withconvoysof leav- jeeps Some people take the jeep one waytoTigerSome peopletake thejeep trips(usuallywithaOrganised sunrise The sunrise overThe sunrise theHimalayafromhere (Map p531 ; 2590m),11kmsouthof Dar- 2252874; [email protected];LadenLaRd) h (Map (Map p532 ; 8am-7pm) Sells bus tickets to bustickets 8am-7pm) Sells (Map (Map p532 ; lonelyplanet.com % 2254430; Old lookouts Tiger Tiger

WEST BENGAL 535 Bhutia Busty (Map (Map p532 ), with Khangchendzonga (Map p531 ) in a small cave, below the cave, ) in a small p531 (Map GOMPAS & PAGODAS & PAGODAS GOMPAS Darjeeling home to Together, are and Ghoom fascinating Buddhist monaster- a number of is the most scenic ies. Probably Gompa a spectacular backdrop. The shrine providing originally stood on Observatory Hill, but was location by the chogyals in its present rebuilt in the 19th century. The gompa Sikkim of houses mural and the a fine gold-accented the Dead, Book of the Tibetan original copy of to see it. To get is required but permission follow CR Das Rd downhill for 400m here, from Chowrasta the right and take fork where the road branches. OBSERVATORY OBSERVATORY HILL Hindus, this and both Buddhists to Sacred the Dorje of Ling monas- site hill was the name. the city its that gave the gompa tery, come to a religions both Today, devotees of temple a Bud- Mahakala, the hill, to honour of crest the Hindu an angry form of dhist deity and by several is marked The summit god Shiva. colourful prayer flags and shrines, a flurry of from numerous devotionalthe notes bells. A throughpath leading up to the hill giant Japa- nese starts 300m along Bhanu about cedars from Chowrasta. Be Sarani Bhakta of careful the marauding monkeys. train station (Map (Map p532 ), , below Hill Cart (Map p531 ; Pamphawati Gu- ; Pamphawati p531 (Map

WEST BENGAL HILLS •• Darjeeling 8am-4pm Mon-Sat) . h Darjeeling produces around 25% of India’s tea, including some of the world’s finest brews, including some of the world’s finest brews, Darjeeling produces around 25% of India’s tea, set aside for Golden Flowery Or- is sorted are into grades – unbroken finished tea leaves The Darjeeling Himalayan Railway HimalayanDarjeeling but there’s more to tea than just plucking and drying. After picking, the leaves are placed in a placed in a picking, are After the leaves just plucking than to tea and drying. more but there’s to around 30%, before content the moisture high-speed fans reduce ‘withering trough’, where onto the surface. leaves rolled water The rolled with heavy rollers to force the remaining they’re flavour; this is a in a high-humidity chamber to produce their distinctive then fermented are is batch. Fermentation fine art can spoil the entire and too little or too much fermentation to just the moisture a dry air chamber, which reduces through stopped by passing the leaves corner of the tea every permeates of tea 3%. With all this hot air flowing around, the smell factory. Orange Fannings end up as Golden Broken Orange Pekoe, broken while leaves teas, ange Pekoe and Dust – and then graded by expert who march up and down long lines of teacups, tasters, Low-grade leaves and fragrance. taste crop and grading it according to colour, sampling every Teas traders. tea sold to international are while the best leaves blended into household teas, are and regularly as ) around Darjeeling and Kurseong (also marketed from estates . p541 see To buy a brew, the world’s highest prices. justifiably achieve ANYONE FOR TEA? ANYONE FOR TEA? looking by British planters for a way Darjeeling from Assam bush was first brought to tea The as it’s drunk in the of tea the discovery for Credit trade. the tea China’s monopoly over to break who first introduced go to the Khamti and Singpho tribes of Assam, world should really Western in hot water. brewed leaves tea to the healing powers of fermented British explorers See the boxed text, below , for more about about , for more below text, See the boxed Darjeeling tea. Lochnager Rd from Chowk Bazaar. Lochnager propriate. Take the turn-off 500m northwest the turn-off Take propriate. or take the Office the District Magistrate, of of manding a tip – Rs 20 from each visitor is ap- manding a tip – Rs 20 from each the busiest time, but occasional plucking also the busiest time, but occasional employee An from June to November. occurs will whisk you through the aromatic factory de- politely and its various processes before Rd, is worth visiting when the plucking and Rd, is worth visiting when is to May March in progress. processing are Happy Valley Tea Estate Estate Tea Happy Valley rungni Rd; TEA PLANTATIONS TEA PLANTATIONS (Hill Cart Rd) Kurseong ( p542 ), there are joy rides (Rs 240) joy rides (Rs 240) are ), there p542 Kurseong ( during the high Darjeeling season that leave a two-hour steam- at 10am and 12.50pm for It’s wise trip to Ghoom. to return powered at the book at least a day ahead India. It’s even listed as a World Heritage a World Heritage as It’s even listed India. Besides dieselsite. service its regular to/from service and steam New Jalpaiguri to/from 2ft-wide tracks in September2ft-wide tracks is 1881 and in railways still operating hill the few one of TOY TRAIN TRAIN TOY The made as the Toy Train, known affectionately along its precipice-topping, journey its first lonelyplanet.com WEST BENGAL leopard. amas featuring thesnowleopard andclouded the middleof wildlife the zoohastacky dior- Centre pretation Tibetan wolves. The black bears, red pandas,snowleopardsand tion of Siberiantigers, aswellHimalayan forested environmentisIndia’sonlycollec- cated keepers. withintherockyand Housed zoos andtheanimalsare cared forbydedi- alayan fauna. Thisisoneof India’sbetter Him- andpreserve in 1958tostudy,conserve countercloses4pm) ticket Fri-Wed, ing InstituteIndian/foreigner Rs20/100; This ZOOLOGICAL PARK PADMAJA NAIDUHIMALAYAN Rds. Bose walk fromClubsidealongGandhiandAJC daily theforestedthrough groundsduringtheir around theworld.Drummingresonates Buddhist NipponzanMyohoji organisation more than 70pagodasbuiltbytheJapanese p531; (Map Rd isthegleamingwhite walk (45minutes) fromtown. known asAloobari Gompaandisapleasant coming music. literature, danceand astronomy,meditation, 300 Himalayanmonkswhostudyphilosophy, 1993. Knownforitsvibrantfrescoes, ithouses (Map p531 in ), inaugurated bytheDalai Lama isthevast jeeling ing (Rs10). can bereached byshare fromDarjeel- jeep gompasare RdandThese bothonHillCart Garuda atopitsornate Buddhabackdrop. Gompa ing Gompa ing this area includethefortresslike Rd.Othergompasof HillCart off interest in just westof Ghoom,about a10-minute walk the mostbeautifullyboundTibetan texts. It’s Buddha (Future Buddha)alongwith300of of statue theMaitreyaenshrines a5m-high on mostwhovisithere. First builtin1850,it exudes afeeling of warmththatisnotlost Rs 10) 536 Perched onahillsideattheendof AJC Bose On theopposite sideof theridge isthewel- Choling Yiga Gompa About GhoomandDar- halfwaybetween , theregion’s mostfamousmonastery, zoo ETBNA IL • Dreln WEST BENGALHILLS••Darjeeling pujas (Map (Map

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jeep station run along Lebong Cart Rdand Cart runalongLebong station jeep interested involunteering. regarding Tibetan rugs,and p1160 ifyou’re the Tibetan community. See p541 fordetails backinto go straight town, buttheproceeds many knick-knacksasthesouvenir shopsin in1959,this Established TIBETAN REFUGEESELF-HELPCENTRE fered here (see p538 ). institute formanyyears. for mostof hislife andwasthedirector of the The intrepid lived inDarjeeling mountaineer was cremated, the stands equipment. fauna andmore historicmountaineering Himalaya, dustyspecimensof Himalayan Museum taineering peak.Nextdooristhe world’s highest which traces thehistoryof attempts onthe complex isthefascinating of Withinthe India’sleadingmountaineers. in 1954andhasprovided trainingforsome Rs 20/100; jeeling.com/hmidarj.htm; admissioninclzooIndian/foreigner institute logical park,thisprestigious Tucked awaywithinthegroundsof thezoo- HIMALAYAN MOUNTAINEERING INSTITUTE utes) (Rs50). oraprivate taxi (Rs10,about 10min- station bus/jeep Bazaar ternatively, take ashare fromtheChowk jeep alongJawaharfrom Chowrasta RdWest;al- taxi costsaround Rs200return.taxi ask fordirections along theway.Achartered along CRDasRd.It’seasytogetrasta lost,so minutes). Youcanalsowalk here from Chow- pass tothecentre the turn-off (Rs10,about20 showroom genius. Thehandicraftsare inthe forsale are atestament totheirimprovisational theworkshops;spinningwheels through workings of thecentre. exhibition items. There’s alsoaninteresting leatherworkandwoollen pets, woodcarvings, gompa home fortheaged, school, orphanage, clinic, Rd; Lebong Cart Share bus/ fromtheChowkBazaar jeeps Various courses are mountaineering of- On anearbyhilltop,where Tenzing Norgay 30-minute walkdown The zooisapleasant The refugees are welcoming,sowander and

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, offer similar routes, for a mini- for similar routes, , offer Samsara Tours, Travels & Treks DGHC Darjeeling Gymkhana Club 9am-7pm daily high season, 10am-4.30pm Mon-Sat, Mon-Sat, 9am-7pm daily high season, 10am-4.30pm 2252874; [email protected]; Laden La Rd; tours 2252874; [email protected]; The 10am-1pm Sun low season; moderate rapids 11/18/25km trip10am-1pm Sun low season; moderate Rs 500/600/800) Rs 350/450/700, challenging rapids people and four to six trips for minimums of Bazaar to Teesta transport can also arrange at its Chitrey (Rs 350) and accommodation companies, ). Private p548 Wayside Inn ( as such % Rs 1200-1700) four people, and its prices include mum of and transport. lunch ACTIVITIES OTHER The Jawahar Rs 50/250) Rd West; membership per day/week gali species – try not to laugh – try gali species stuffed at the The museumcrocodile. away in a is hidden off Bishop Eric Benjamincompound just Rd. RAFTING WHITE-WATER Darjeeling the easiest place to organise is trips along the Rangeet rafting white-water Rafting from Rivers. leave trips and Teesta road to Ka- ), along the p548 Bazaar ( Teesta graded from Grade II limpong. The rapids are times for rafting are to Grade IV, and the best to June. and March September to November h ,

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contain an impressive contain impressive an Gorkha war memorial dawn-dusk) Batasia Loop , Jamling admits also asking this of his father, mentor and inspiration, 12 months h gardens WEST BENGAL HILLS •• Darjeeling 8am-4.30pm) h Dhirdham Mandir Bengal Natural History Museum Tenzing Norgay was just 18 years old in 1932 when he left his village of Thame, in the Khumbu in the Khumbu his village of Thame, was just 18 years old in 1932 when he left Norgay Tenzing the and numerous successful climbs on other peaks over on Everest attempts several After a spectacular and occasionally contentious British, Nepali and Indian nationalism ensured DARJEELING, EVEREST & TENZING DARJEELING, EVEREST & TENZING linking a statue in Siliguri and one in Darjeeling, and the road him. after the two is named There’s summitteer, Jamling, himself an Everest his son, in Darjeeling, where looms large Norgay Tenzing he leads mountaineering and trekking expeditions. in the family house from where lives mountaineering European-led new trend: and income with the of Nepal, to seek adventure region Club in Darjeeling each Lining up for work with other hopeful sherpas at the Planters’ expeditions. early with Eric Shipton in 1935. These get his first tilt at Everest would eventually season, Tenzing from the north (Tibet), weeks of walking after expeditions approached Everest from Darjeeling Chumbi Valley. via Kalimpong, Jelepla and Tibet’s expedition of 1953 and joined John Hunt’s British Everest Norgay next two decades, Tenzing became a Edmund Hillary. Tenzing made history with the rangy bee keeper from New Zealand, in Darjeeling to be with his family and to develop much in demand, but remained world figure the Himalayan Mountaineering Institute. from first?’ question was quickly elevated there ‘who reached climb. The celebration of the great It is still the question at the media. innocent curiosity to nationalist politics by a sensationalist detailed in in the West. As motivational speeches top of the list when Jamling gives My Father’s Soul My Father’s to this impertinent for Jamling’s own response question under a death. As prior to Tenzing’s the peak is a dome that can support Darjeeling sky: ‘It doesn’t matter, typically wet and grey climbers simultaneously.’ several The If you’re travelling on the Toy Train, or travelling If you’re moth-eaten collection of Himalayan and Ben- collection of moth-eaten Bishop Eric Benjamin Rd; adult/child Rs 5/2; established in 1903, houses a mildewed and walking back from Tiger Hill, look out for the walking back from Tiger scenic and sobering lica of the famous Pashupatinath Temple in Temple the famous Pashupatinath lica of just below the It’s easy to find – Kathmandu. view Darjeeling a great train station. There’s Darjeeling its grounds. from over jeeling, OTHER ATTRACTIONS ATTRACTIONS OTHER in Dar- temple The most conspicuous Hindu Follow the signs along Lochnager Rd from the Follow the signs along Lochnager Chowk Bazaar bus/jeep station. map and A from the park office. guide (Rs 5) is available Look for the magnificent wisterias planted planted magnificent wisterias Look for the escaping from their glasshouse.in 1878, now orchids and rhododendrons, as well as temper- and rhododendrons, orchids It’s a lovely from around the world. trees ate central Darjeeling. from the bustle of respite collection of Himalayan plants, most famously plants, most famously Himalayan collection of LLOYD BOTANICAL GARDENS GARDENS BOTANICAL LLOYD pleasant These lonelyplanet.com mission free; mission free; makes its famous makes p531 ; admission Rs 5; p531 WEST BENGAL making lessons. and pray the power doesn’t cutout. and praythepowerdoesn’t billiards room(Rs100perperson perhour) lection is mentionedhere. Prices given are for hotels crowdingthe ridge andonlya smallse- hasanever-increasingDarjeeling numberof Sleeping around Rs600perhalf-day. p534 for Tiger information. Hillsunrise-tour viewpoints.See andseveral Centre Self-Help Institute, TibetanMountaineering Refugee 75 perperson) includesthezoo, Himalayan tour’(Rs ‘seven-point Thehalf-day Darjeeling. travel agencies offer avarietyof tours around theDGHC andother season During thehigh Tours har RdWest;lessonsRs600) The owner at COOKING equipment andtechniques. outdoor climbingcourses usingmodern % centre atleastthree months inadvance. cember. Foreigners shouldapplydirectly tothe Marching courses (US$650),between andDe- and 28-daybasicadvancedmountaineer- andcanoeing, cluding climbing,junglesurvival runs 15-dayadventure courses (US$325),in- The MOUNTAINEERING modation forstudents. accom- It alsosuppliesdiscounted guesthouse Rs 9030/13,760/18,490plus1350registration; 12GhandiRd;3-/6-/9-monthcourses .manjushree-culture.org; ofTibetan Culture Centre spoken Tibetan are offered atthe Beginner and advanced lessonsinwritten and LANGUAGE Courses Rs 80perhour. tea estates tovisitamonasterythrough for ride Rs 100) ClubDarjeeling Planters’ tennis;and table callto check theschedules. offers tennis, squash,badminton,roller-skating 538 From Chowrasta, childrenFrom Chowrasta, cantake a Taxis canbehired for customtours for Tenzing ClimbingClub Norgay Be anaristocratforthedayandjoin Be 2258045; DB Giri Rd;perdayRs300) 2258045; DBGiri around Observatory HillforRs40,or aroundObservatory iaaa onaneig Institute Mountaineering Himalayan ETBNA IL • Dreln WEST BENGALHILLS••Darjeeling . Lounge instyleorrackthemupthe Hot StimulatingCafé offers informal Mp p532; (Map

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2254348; perday 2256714; www Mp p531; (Map Manjushree Manjushree h momo (p536) Mar-Dec) pony . - lacking views,thisisaconveniently located wood Rd;dRs250,withshared bathroomRs200) sify.com; Dr Zakir HussainRd;dRs250-400; sify.com; DrZakir in theevening. geysers, buttheyonlyoperate for1½hours andvalleyviews.Allroomshavehave aTV cosy wood-linedrooms.Theupstairs rooms a library,rooftop patio,helpfulowners and lers favourite withgoodfood(andcoldbeer), tached buthot-water showers are shared. simple roomsthathave views.Toiletsare at- Hussain Rd;sRs150,d200-250) Bucket hotwater isRs10. theinexpensive restaurant.nice views,asdoes Rooms are butcleanandsomehave spartan three beds–butit’spopularandvery friendly. 200) Hussain Rd;dmRs60,swithshared bathroomRs80,d160- and sit-downflush toiletsavailable. Mosthotels otherwise. stated have bothsquat free hotwater orbucket), (eithergeyser unless All choices belowhave private bathroomsand BUDGET ward travellers andexercise. withvistas budget atoptheridge, optionsstand andre- leafy havens northof Thenicest Chowrasta. of town,whilethetop-endchoices optforthe time. Mostmidrange hotels occupythecentre feelby 50%;however, free tonegotiate atany pricescandrop book ahead.Inthelowseason and mid-March to toJune),whenitiswise (OctobertoearlyDecember season the high rooms with geysers, unless stated otherwise. andprivate bath- The following allhave TV MIDRANGE and mealpackages are available. are others abitdamp,though are better. Room Hill.Ground-floor rooms below Observatory inanoldcolonial house This optionishoused Kuchery Rd;s/dRs360/475,withshared bathroomRs240/315) Rd. La the postoffice onLaden tucked awayonanalleyoffsomesteps above budget optionoffering small,cleanrooms.It’s It asksfora50%paymentupfront. rooms andarooftop terrace with agreat view. place isafriendlyoptionthathasairy,carpeted from Rs250/300)T Hotel LongIsland Hotel GuestHouse Triveni Maple Tourist Lodge Tourist Maple Andy’s Aliment Hotel Hotel Pagoda Hotel Thisisasimplelodge –thedormhasonly Mp p532; (Map Book accommodationonlineatlonelyplanet.com his simple,spotless, stone-walled

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WEST BENGAL

539 2256376; www This delight- 2253317; 29/30 2254041; www.win % 2254149; 5 Nehru Rd; d 2254149; 5 Nehru 2257226; elgin@elgin % % 2252228; Rockville % 2254127; fax 2254129; % % % (Map p532 ;

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(Map p532 ; p532 (Map (Map p532 ; Elgin Cute, clean and full of charm describes charm full of clean and Cute, Windamere Hotel Other recommendations: Mayfair Hill Resort o Hotel Shangrila Rd; d incl breakfast Rs 800-1000) Has a restaurant and bar a restaurant Rs 800-1000) Has Rd; d incl breakfast downstairs. HD Lama Rd; s/d Rs 500/600) Clean, almost budget HD Lama Rd; s/d Rs 500/600) Clean, station. category, and convenient to bus Some large rooms with 12/1 DB Thapa Rd; d from Rs 1500) views over town. This rambling relic of the Raj on Observatory of This rambling relic Hill attracts an eclectic crowd, and though they are a little tired, getting its rooms are comfortable, One for the clean and spacious. pink, the true Raj aficionado – the gins are friendly and you staff genuinely liveried are hungry. won’t leave restaurant is pukka and the lovely gardens are gardens are is pukka and the lovely restaurant and enjoy high tea. place to relax the perfect .mayfairhotels.com; Jawahar Rd West; s/d from Rs 5000/6000) near the Raj gardens and sculptures manicured carpets, sumptuous leather, coal Soft Bhavan. and fine art add to the warm welcome. fires DVDs in finished watching When you have your palatial room, head to the Library Bar or a brisk shuffletake around Observatory Hill. Hotel Polynia TOP END rooms on the so-called These offer hotels and lunch breakfast, ‘American Plan’, with and service dinner included; taxes charges usually add 15% to 20% to the bill. HD Lama Rd; s/d Rs 4100/4400) hotels.com; is brim- hotel ful, grand yet friendly heritage The spacious ming with colonial ambience. bedrooms combine enough originality to and enough renova- them interesting keep the elegantly comfort. Most of tion to ensure separate sitting areas, furnished rooms have and marble bathrooms. The open fireplaces conies. The hosts are friendly and an electric friendly and are The hosts conies. a cosy stay. for makes winter) (in heater Rs 1500) and restau- appealing boutique hotel this very double only four are There Mall. rant on the beds, bay windows, double with rooms, each and views. fireplaces Hotel Crystal Palace Hotel Valentino damerehotel.com; Jawahardamerehotel.com; Rd West; s/d from Rs 5200/6600) Originally a maharaja’s summer palace, and Originally a maharaja’s Darjeeling, this Mayfair soon to be renamed sits among lovingly choice plush and genteel An This 2254178; Pity the % 2252017; www This small This small This ram- •• Darjeeling WEST BENGAL HILLS (heater) and (heater) 2257025; rajn_clas % 2254181; hotelalice 2254181; 2254074; pineridge % This small hotel, 2254159; www.dekeling 2254075; www.darjeeling % % (Map p532 ;

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Classic Guesthouse Hotel Seven Seventeen Main Olde Bellevue Hotel Bellevue Hotel Dekeling Hotel Pineridge Hotel Hotel Villa Alice boasting valley views and vertigo-inducing bal- boasting valley views and vertigo-inducing Hotel SevenHotel Seventeen, and is up the street which closer to the Chowk Bazaar bus/jeep station. ally friendly service and clean, though small, rooms. Don’t confuse it with the other, older .hotel717.com; 26 HD Lama Rd; s/d/tr Rs 1000/1300/1600) place with exception- inviting Tibetan-themed a Raj place too derelict to be called charming to be called charming a Raj place too derelict and too rustic to be comfortable, but appar- ently due for renovation. lower one more modern, with a huge lounge lounge modern, with a huge lower one more and the other but ordinary rooms, and terrace, welcoming hotel compriseswelcoming hotel two buildings, the look over Chowrasta towards Khangchend- look over this a popular choice. zonga all make a conspicuously absent TV. The affable staff, a conspicuously absent TV. and the out- area communal breakfast/lounge elled rooms. Most are spacious with grass-mat elled rooms. Most are a wood-burning floors, -bellevuehotel.com; Chowrasta; d Rs 900-1500) wood-pan- bling complex comprisesa variety of on the ground floor. For thosefor a looking on the ground floor. about their talkquiet getaway, to the owners Nest Resort. out-of-town Hawk’s are great, cosy, common areas and a scenic loft. a scenic loft. and cosy, common areas great, are (Rs 250) is servedBreakfast the while upstairs, ), is p540 ( Dekevas excellent restaurant, hotel’s run hotel. Most of the comfortable rooms have the comfortable rooms have Most of run hotel. and there priced accordingly) views (and are .com; Clubside; d Rs 850-1050) the broken window. the broken charm, and with a bucket of coal (Rs 150) coal (Rs of and with a bucket charm, you can forget maybe glowing in the fireplace lapidated standardlapidated and only slightly rooms still some Raj rooms. There’s deluxe better Pineridge. So much restoration potential and potential restoration So much Pineridge. is drafty, di- location, but the reality a great cosy open fireplaces. [email protected]; Nehru Rd; s/d from Rs 750/850) age accommodation. The rooms are spacious spacious The rooms are accommodation. age and character for with plenty of and well cared hotel occupies a charming old bungalow close old bungalow charming occupies a hotel herit- inexpensive to Chowrasta and provides [email protected]; from Rs 700) HD Lama Rd; d 41 Book accommodation online at lonelyplanet.com online at accommodation Book [email protected]; CR Das Rd; d Rs 1200) come is guaranteed at this spotless, Tibetan- www.darjeelinghotel.com; Nehru Rd; d Rs 1000-1500) just below Chowrasta, has just five rooms alljust below Chowrasta, has just five WEST BENGAL is tasteful simplicity.Itssteamed mains Rs35-120) 540 but notlegroom. fare of 40-80) breakfast, pancakes andgoodcoffee.serves Also and sandwiches. pizzas, paninis,salads lookingforachangefies those of taste: excellent licence butit’sworthaskingforabeer. executed.all satisfactorily There’s no alcohol chicken-dominated Grassmenu– ThaiLemon fromthefish-and Indian curriesorselect tourists andfillsupquickly.Savour North mains Rs30-140) breakfast, tryitsmuesliandfruitcurd. gyathuk, legendary asare its Ghandi Rd,mainsRs35-70) Western tastes. be confidentthechilli isn’ttoneddownfor you canfillupwithveg andnonveg thalisand mains Rs30-70) neath Hotel Dekeling andabove Dekevas. be- It’ssqueezed view andwonderfulservice. where youalsocanenjoyagreatin Darjeeling Lunar isoneof thebestvegetarian restaurants andnachos.chiladas, tacos burgers, en- SouthIndiansnacks,andeven and offers aglobalmenu,includingpizzas, mains Rs20-105) simple, cheap mealsandchai. up the zoo,offers beautifulviewsandserves meals Rs20-40) their doors by8pmor9pm. on theplains.Note thatmostrestaurants close ingredients ismuch more thanfound seasonal good international fare, buttheavailability of Tibetandishing upIndian,Chinese, andsome hasagreat choiceDarjeeling of restaurants Eating Central Resort Fortune and roomtoswingtwocats. Central. Century-oldpolishedwood,thickrugs,openfires theerstwhileHotel incl taxes Rs4628/5550) Comprising 12/1DBThapaRd;s/d www.fortuneparkhotels.com; Dekevas Restaurant Dekevas Park Restaurant Kunga Restaurant Chanakya Hotel Lunar Hotel Frank RossCafé Hot StimulatingCafé Other recommendations: La Casse Croute La Casse CosyDekevas isknownforgreat Tibetan ETBNA IL • Dreln WEST BENGALHILLS••Darjeeling momos

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most atmosphericchoice andit’salsoagreat This friendlypub,nearthepostoffice, isthe biscuits andall. atop the famous bakery and café (see atop thefamousbakery andcafé(see below ) West; being baked style)isdivine. tandoori (chicken marinated inspicedyogurtbefore grab yourbookandsinkintosomewicker. acake,grand views–orderyourtea, select this caféishometomassive windowsand 8pm, till9pminhighseason) Glenary’s TEA drinking, there are acoupleof goodchoices. tea? Ifacoolpintisyourideaofof Darjeeling Where intheworldisabetter placetosipacup Drinking hotel provides. replace thefluorescent thatyour substance as excellentDrukmarmaladefromBhutan to on general groceriesandimported foods,such As wellaspharmaceuticalsyoucanstockup Frank RossPharmacy SELF-CATERING of Indiancuisine. Thechicken agreater we’dlikethough tosee selection specialsarecurries andtandoori excellent, sizzlerstal (veg andnonveg), dishes, Chinese Thecontinen- andsuperiorservice. cold beer patronswithgoodfood,grandviews, delights 50-120; Windamere Hotel Hotel Windamere live bands SaturdayandSundayat6.30pm. atGlenary’s.Ithas wood barisinthebasement warmrumandcoldbeer.footy onTV, othertravellers.place tomeet IthasEuropean Joey’s Pub BARS Rd West;highteaRs240; or outinthegardens. andshortbreadsandwiches inthesunroom Rs 150; purchasing packaged tea. local estates –cupandcookiesRs20before and sipuptoninevarietiesof brewed tea from o Buzz Hotel Windamere Elgin theHouseofTea Goodricke, Also recommended: h h h

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WEST BENGAL

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thangkas 8am-7pm) 2257194; [email protected]; Laden La 2254646; [email protected]; JP Sharma 2254646; [email protected]; (Tibetan cloth paintings), religious religious cloth paintings), (Tibetan h % %

Jet Airways agents Jet is at Chowrasta. is at Chowrasta.

8.30am-6pm) 9am-6pm Mon-Sat) 2253912; [email protected]; 2253912; [email protected]; are h Kasturi & Travels Tours At the northern end of the station, three to the station, three At the northern end of Indian Airlines Das Studios Chowk Bazaar fas- is a crowded, noisy and offers similar services. offers don’t These tickets ing Nepali woodcarvingsing Nepali masks), (including thangkas jewellery. objects and Ticket offices on the ground floor of the Old the Old on the ground floor of offices Ticket for Complex sell advance tickets Super Market (Rs 90, two jeepsKalimpong to the frequent and Gangtok (Rs 130, four hours). hours) 80, (Rs for Jorenthang four jeeps a day leave a connection it’s easy to get where two hours), (Map p532 ) that backs on to the station. p532 (Map Super Market Complex; Tours & Travels (Rs 380, 12 hours). (Map p532 ; JEEP & TAXI the jeeps and taxis leave Numerous share the Chowk Bazaar bus/ crowded south end of jeep and station for Siliguri (Rs 80, 2½ hours) for leave Jeeps hours). (Rs 40, 1½ Kurseong about every 1½ hours. Mirik (Rs 50, 2½ hours) AIR AIR Bagdogra, airport is 90km away at The nearest for details p526 Seeabout 12km from Siliguri. about flights to/from Bagdogra. Mon-Sat) (Map p532 ; Rd; % Sat) BUS From the Chowk Bazaar bus/jeep station (Map buses for Mirik (Rs 40, depart ), regular p532 hours). and Siliguri (Rs 60, three hours) three be bought can ground-floor from the Tickets Complex at the Old Super Market counter h other places around and Khangchendzonga of Darjeeling. and incense. spices to buy tea, cinating place several so-called Buddha shops at are There Chowk Bazaar and on NB Singh Rd, selling prayer flags, Getting There & Away include transfers to Siliguri. include transfers Rd) ket Complex; from Siliguri to destinations such as Kolkatafrom Siliguri to destinations such

9am- h 11am- Goodricke, h

(Map p531 ; Lebong Cart 2254278; Laden La 2254278; Laden La Singalila Market, Nehru Rd) 2257226; www.inoxmovies 2257226; % , downhill from the , downhill from the 2253228; Laden La Rd; % Gorgeous carpets made carpets Gorgeous

, which also stamps your , which also stamps your (Map p532 ; www.nathmulltea.com; % (Map (Map p531 ;

2254233; Hill Cart Rd; WEST BENGAL HILLS •• Darjeeling (Map p532 ; Nehru Rd). p532 (Map Foreigners’ Regional Registra- (Map p532 ; Office of the District Magistrate

% (Map p532 ;

(Map (Map p532 ;

Closer to Chowrasta, this place sells . Expect to pay Rs 50 per 100g for a 9.30am-5pm) dawn-dusk Mon-Sat) h

Trekking Shop h (Map p532 ; of- go back to the magistrate’s form. Then fice, which issues the permit while you wait. whole process takes about 1½ hours The – bring your passport. no fee and there’s PERMITS FOR SIKKIM FOR SIKKIM PERMITS avail- ) are p570 permits ( Forms for Sikkim able at the tion Office Chowk Bazaar bus/jeep station. They must must Chowk Bazaar bus/jeep station. They and then be filled out and stamped here, taken to the Rd; 1pm & 2.30-4pm Mon-Fri)

Cheaper tea is available in Chowk Bazaar, is available Cheaper tea rasta Rds sell- and along Gandhi and Nehru OTHER SOUVENIRS SOUVENIRS OTHER shops at Chow- numerous souvenir are There and waterproofs and jackets, as well as Chinese- and jackets, and waterproofs rare). sizes are and Russian-made boots (larger The clothing,sells satisfactory Nepali counterfeit TREKKING GEAR TREKKING GEAR carpets as part of its charitable work (Rs 3600 its charitable carpets as part of to 4000 for a 3ft x 6ft carpet). Hayden Hall 6pm Mon-Sat) Tibetan RefugeeTibetan Self-Help Centre Rd; TIBETAN CARPETS CARPETS TIBETAN Avoid the tea in fancy boxes, because it’s usu- in fancy boxes, the tea Avoid in Kolkata. ally blended and packaged but the packaging isn’t particularly sturdy. but the packaging isn’t Laden La Rd) Nathmull’s Tea Rooms Nathmull’s Tea DARJEELING TEA TEA DARJEELING and in the world tea the finest of is some This The popular and portable souvenir. is a very 50 varieties, is with over best supplier here, Shopping Shopping .com; Rink Mall, tickets cnr Laden La & SM Das Rds; Rs 60-130) Entertainment Entertainment Theatre Inox lonelyplanet.com The House of Tea The House of Tea decent tea and up to Rs 1000 per 100g for the and up to decent tea at you buy Try before finest brews. to order and shipped to your home address. to order and shipped to your home address. Three cinemas and several cinemas Three seating. classes of WEST BENGAL % Gangtok (share/charter Rs130/1300,four rasta from Chowk Bazaar foraround Rs50. fromChowk Bazaar rasta hire aporter tocarryyourbags uptoChow- but rates are absurdforshort hops.Youcan (MapBazaar p532 ). at Chowk stand Rdjeep from theHillCart ToGhoom,getstation. a share (Rs12) jeep northern endof bus/jeep theChowkBazaar centre, egNorthPoint(Rs5),leave fromthe Share toanywhere jeeps northof thecity Getting Around well asborderandNepalibusdetails. See p528 forSiliguri–Panitanki transport,as to dothisyourself andyou’llsave somemoney. room forproblems. it’snotdifficult However, transfers inSiliguriandattheborder–leaving are(Rs 600).These notdirect andinvolve buses toKathmandu fromDarjeeling ets forbuses ; p532 (Map Complex) Old SuperMarket at Kakarbhitta/Panitanki (notatPasupati). Foreigners canonlycrosstheborderintoNepal TO/FROM NEPAL Kurseong orthejoyride( p535 ). ence thetrain,take thesteam trainto/from haul toNJP,soifyousimplywantexperi- iguri (Rs38/217,6½hours). It’sanexhausting Kurseong (Rs26/144,three hours) andSil- stopping atGhoom(Rs20/96,50minutes), hours), for NJP(2nd/1stclassRs45/247,seven The at9.15am toytrainleavesdiesel Darjeeling Darjeeling HimalayanRailway tions counter train station’s Darjeeling outof NJPatthe formajorbought services paiguri (NJP),nearSiliguri.Tickets canbe The nearest major isatNewJal- trainstation TRAIN (Rs1000). from Darjeeling nection inSiliguri,orcharter or taxi ajeep hours, hourly). and Siliguri(share/charter Rs80/800,2½ hours, share depart8.30amand1pm) jeeps (see p541 ) viathisroute. must already have apermittoenter Sikkim to anywhere innorthernorWestSikkim.You 542 Diamond Treks, Tours&Travels Diamond Treks, Corporation Darjeeling Transport There aroundtown, stands are taxi several To NewJalpaiguri get orBagdogra, acon- 9832081338, 2258967;LadenLaRd) ETBNA IL • Tekn rudDreln AroundDarjeeling WEST BENGALHILLS••Trekking % 225 4430; Old Super Market Complex) 225 4430;OldSuperMarket

Mp p532; (Map and % 2252555; Kasturi Tours&Travels Kasturi computerised reserva- computerised (Map p532; (Map

has jeeps to hasjeeps h

8am-2pm) Mp p532; (Map % sell tick- sell 2258961; 2258961; .

9pm) through through andRimbik –book Srikhola Phalut, Rammam, Mana Bhanjang, Tonglu,Garibas,Sandakphu, are basic available atSandakphuandSabarkum.There you don’thave five days,there are short cuts (Rs80,five hours). toDarjeeling If ing buses trekking itineraryisdescribedon below . (Rs20,twohours). station Theusual bus/jeep ChowkBazaar fromDarjeeling’s ing buses Mana bymorn- Darjeeling. Bhanjang isserved pointinManastarting Bhanjang, 26kmfrom privately travel through agencies oratthetrek’s Rs 350perday)are mandatoryandcanbehired Rs 50) nic sce- Sandakphu toPhalut; through itpasses and descriptionsof major trekking routes. Himalayan Treks 10am-1pm Sunlowseason) West; June. The and rhododendron bloomsof May andearly make itanidealtimetotrek, asdothelongdays November’s clearskiesandwarmtemperatures are accessible from Octoberand Darjeeling. A numberof rewarding andpicturesque treks TREKKING AROUNDDARJEELING day depending on the level ofday dependingonthelevel service. travel agencies ( p534 ) forRs1200to2000per and accommodation,are offered byDarjeeling treks on thisroute, includingporters, meals lar pricesalongtheroute. All-inclusive guided accommodation optionsare available forsimi- Rs 20to45.Other(better private maintained) From Rimbik,there are connectingmorn- Most popularisthe SINGALILA RIDGETREK Rma oRmi 29m 19 16 (2290m) toRimbik Rammam via 17 5 (2530m) PhaluttoRammam Srikhola via 17 4 SandakphutoPhalut(3600m) Gorkey via &Garibas viaKalipokhri 3 14 TonglutoSandakphu(3636m) Sabarkum 2 Tonglu(3100m) via Distance Meghma (km) Bhanjang(2130m)to Mana Gompa 1 Day Route igll ainl Park National Singalila . Youcanorganise mealsatthehutsfor andoffers Himalayanviews.Guides(about h 9am-7pm daily high season, 10am-4.30pm Mon-Sat, 9am-7pm dailyhighseason,10am-4.30pmMon-Sat, Glenary’s trekkers’ huts trekkers’ DGHC

(Map p532 ; p532 (Map leaflet, which includes a map leaflet,which includesamap

Mp p3 Nhu Rd; Nehru p532; (Map producestheexcellent

Singalila Ridge Trek Trek Singalila Ridge (dm/d/tr Rs100/400/500)

(admission Rs100,camerafee % 2255351; Jawahar Rd Rd 2255351; Jawahar lonelyplanet.com h 11.30am- from from at WEST BENGAL 543 Hill Tiger To (2590m) Kalimpong Ghoom Jorethang Darjeeling 00 5 km 3 miles I N D I A Soreng

1:325,000 River

B A N G L A

an Ram Lodoma stocks clothing and boots. The DGHC stocks clothing and boots. The DGHC ) Sombare 03552 / pop 42,980 / elev 1250m Kalimpong’s early development as a trad- Kalimpong’s START Tibet, across the Jelepla Pass. Like Darjeel- Like Pass. across the Jelepla Tibet, to the chog- once belonged ing, Kalimpong the hands of into but it fell Sikkim, yals of the Bhutanese in the 18th century and later becoming part of passed to the British, before missionaries, Scottish India at Independence. efforts to made great particularly the Jesuits, huts), it can be rented from Trek Mate (sleep- Mate from Trek huts), it can be rented Rs 20, boots Rs 30, ing bag Rs 30, down jacket Shop Rs 15 per day). The Trekking rain gear ( p541 KALIMPONG % bustling bazaar town sprawls along a This and River the roaring Teesta overlooking ridge Kalimpong Khangchendzonga. within sight of lacks Darjeeling’s crowds and commercial- ism, yet it boasts Himalayan views, tranquil churches, and Buddha shops, temples retreats, and a fascinating nursery industry. focused on the wool trade with ing centre If you need clothing or gear (and you should If you need (and you should clothing or gear on carry your own sleeping bag even if relying in Kalimpong has a few tents for rent. tents has a few in Kalimpong Mana Bhanjang

, River Rimbik FINISH

Chitray

doma Lo Tonglu 2252874; S I K K I M 2253718; Rochela Trek

% Tumling iver Meghma

% R

ri Jaubari 255204; www Sri Khola Shi Raman (Darjeeling, p534 ; p534 (Darjeeling, % ( (Map p532 ; ; p532 (Map (Map p531 ; ; p531 (Map Gairi Bas Samandar 2256611; chagpori@satyam Kali Pokhari Gorkhey Chowri Chowk % Bikhay Bhanjang Routes Khatta Sandakphu Alternative •• Kalimpong WEST BENGAL HILLS Singalila e National Park

Molley g i d S i n g R Sabarkum

a l i l a and may not be correct. (Map p532 ; p532 (Map The external boundaries of India Phalut N E P A L on this map have not been authenticated Recommended trekking agencies: Recommended trekking Nearer to Kalimpong is the great is the great to Kalimpong Nearer SINGALILA RIDGE TREK RIDGE SINGALILA .net.in; Nehru Rd) Readers have recommended the treks .net.in; Nehru Rd) Readers the treks have recommended gear is clean (Rs 1400 per person per day), while the rental and well maintained. www.tenzing-norgay.com; DB Giri outfit Rd) Professional and Bhutan. Sikkim, in Darjeeling, offering treks Tibet Kalimpong, p544 ) Charges about Rs 2000 per day (all- p544 Kalimpong, inclusive) for Singalila Ridge guides/porters and organises (Rs 350 per day) for Rochela. [email protected]; Laden La Rd) Experienced agency pricedoffering reasonably rafting and trekking trips. Trek Mate Tenzing Norgay Adventures Tenzing Samsara Tours, Travels & Treks Gurudongma Tours & Travels DGHC Tourist Reception Centre days through dense forests, visiting remote vil- days through visiting remote dense forests, thata pass at 3000m. Note and crossing lages the four days, with camping, to reach it takes from Kalimpong. Rochela highpoint of which gives you a taste of the stunning Samthar the of you a taste gives which for four to eight ). You can trek p548 ( Plateau lonelyplanet.com .gurudongma.com; Hilltop,.gurudongma.com; RinkingpongRd, Kalimpong) Offering with in this region, customised all-inclusive treks knowledgeable guides and accommodation. WEST BENGAL is theancient hill) fromtown,past thetopof TripaiRd. Tibetan community.It’sa30-minute walk (up- edict tonotworship Shugden hassplitthelocal humans. Thecontroversy over theDalaiLama’s is painted withimages of flayedanimalsand room adjacenttothegompa. Thesmallroom and otherwrathfuldeitiesare kept inalocked Interestingly, thecontroversial Shugden Dorje symbols of ignoranceandworldlyattachment. and anger (thesnake), whilehisfeet holddown Buddha fromabove, hatred hismouthdevouring and future, respectively). Garudaprotects each Sakyamuni andMaitreya Buddhas(past,present of statues theBhaisajya, Pradhan Rd,contains Built in1926,the GOMPAS Sights topresent threeYou need passport photos. (see available attheborderRangpo p570 ). permits forSikkim,butfree 15-daypermitsare butthebestinternet squeeze option. is atight Hut travellers cheques forasmallcommission. h till noonSat) till4pmSat) Mon-Fri, The as istheprivate website www.kalimpong.org. ( Rinkingpong Rds. metres viaDBGiriand fromtown,accessed and qualityaccommodationare afew kilo- cheap hotels andshopping, whilemostsights tions comeandgo. Nearbyare restaurants, whereStand, peoplemillandtransportop- Kalimpong iscentred onitschaotic Motor Orientation &Information where hewasgunneddown. commemorated byasmallshrine onthespot tion attempt ontheheadof theGNLF,andis 2002 after beingimplicated inanassassina- CK Pradhanwasassassinated here inOctober situation before youarrive. leader TheGurkha limpong, soit’sworthchecking thesecurity and school isstillrunningtoday. century andDrGraham’sfamousorphanage win over thelocalBuddhistsinlate 19th 544 % Near thetop of RC MintriRd,past JP Lodge, The movementThe Gorkhaland isactive inKa- There isnowhere inKalimpong toobtain atthe The staff

8am-8pm) (per hrRs35; 257992; DB Giri Rd; 257992; DBGiri post office ETBNA IL • Klmog WEST BENGALHILLS••Kalimpong Central Bank Central and exchange variouscurrencies and h (

Thongsa Thongsa Gompa % Soni Emporium isnexttothetownhall. 9am-8pm) 255990; Rinkingpong Rd; 255990; Rinkingpong h Tharpa Choling Tharpa Gompa

(SDB Giri Rd; (SDB Giri DGHC Tourist Reception Centre Reception DGHC Tourist 9.30am-5pm) , near the Motor Stand, , neartheMotorStand,

( h % (Bhutanese Mon- (Bhutanese are very helpful, 10am-3pm Mon-Fri, 10am-3pm Mon-Fri, 255030; DB Giri Rd; Rd; 255030; DBGiri h , off KD , offKD 9am-5pm 9am-5pm Net Net

7pm) apostles looklike Buddhistmonks,and the gompa. Thecarved tion mimicsaBhutanese ance fromthelocals,StTeresa’s construc- by Swiss Jesuits anddesignedtogainaccept- A fascinating missionary church builtin1929 ST TERESA’SCHURCH and over theRelliandTeesta Rivers. below thegompa,looksouttoHimalaya 80 return). The tre, and isbestreached bychartered (Rs jeep is located about5kmsouthof thetown cen- the topof Khangchendzonga. Themonastery est storey Siliguriontheplainsand youcansee cooperated initsconstruction.Fromthehigh- tion of themanydifferent of sects refugees who marily Nyingpa,themonastery isacompila- interesting 3-Dmandalas onthe2ndfloor. Pri- downstairs (photographyispermitted), and ceiling paintingsinthemainprayerroom in1976.There areLama impressive walland afterwas consecrated itsopeningbytheDalai DurpinHill(1372m)and atop spectacular Palri Fo-Brang Gompa,aka newfrescoes. upstairs youwillfindbright kim. Itsoldmuralsdownstairs are fading,and rampagedtury after across theGurkhas Sik- wasbuiltinthe19thcen- small prayerwheels, but thepresent building,surroundedby219 astery). Themonastery wasfoundedin1692, a small and now has more than 1300students. There’s to educate thechildren of tea-estate workers, 1900 byDrJA Graham , aScottish missionary, This working DR GRAHAM’S HOME church.by theRomanCatholic from thecentre alongRelliRdandturnleft Gompa, oryoucanwalk hill fromThongsa prayer hall.Thetemple isabout 500mdown- who’s commemorated inashrine belowthe ple isdedicated toGurujiShri Mangaldasji, The tem- dioramas fromtheKrishnaLeela. prayer hallthere are vibrant,life-size eight This ungainlymodern MANGAL DHAM and askfordirections. Rd, about 2kmfromtown.Take orwalk ataxi Buddhism. Thechurch 9thMile isfoundoff auspicioussymbolsofthe eight Himalayan onthedoors resemble carvings Kalimpong’s largest monastery, ZongDog issacred toKrishna. Initsballroomlike museum orphanage andschool (admission free;

Jelepla Viewpoint Jelepla temple h Durpin Gompa lonelyplanet.com 9am-3.30pm Mon-Fri)

(Relli Rd; (Relli , about 300m was builtin tashi tagye, h 6am- , sits

WEST BENGAL 12 545 A2 B1 A1 A1 A1 B4 C3 A1 A2 A1 A1 A2 A1 A1 A1 B3 B1 D2 B5 A6 B5 B6 D1 D2 C2 A6 B2 C2 B4 A5 B5 B4 D2 A6 A1 500 m 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 0.3 miles 10 11 12 13 14 15 16 17 18 19 20 21 22 23 24 25 26 27 28 29 30 31 32 33 34 35 36 Lava (35km); Kaffer (55km); Home (1.2km);

To Dr Graham's

D DB Giri Rd Giri DB

Deolo Lodge (3km); Tripai Rd Tripai 13 Samthar Plateau (79km) Scale 22 Approximate 7 17 Soni Emporium...... B1 INFORMATION SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES SLEEPING EATING SHOPPING TRANSPORT Himalayan Travellers...... Kalimpong Mainline Taxi Driver's Welfare Association...... (see 36) Kalimpong Motor Transport...... Kalimpong Railway Out Agency...... Sikkim Nationalised Transport...... Trivini Travels...... Bethlehem...... Cloud 9...... Crown Lodge...... Deki Lodge...... Himalayan Hotel...... Holumba Haven...... Hotel Chimal...... Hotel Silver Oaks...... JP Lodge...... Kalimpong Park Hotel...... Lodge Himalshree...... 3C's...... China Garden Restaurant...... Fresh Bite Restaurant...... Gompu's Bar & Restaurant...... Lark's Provisions...... Pizza Pan...... (see 29) Shikhar...... (see 29) Gangjong Paper Industry...... Haat Bazaar...... Central Bank...... DGHC Tourist Reception Centre...... Net Hut...... Post Office...... CK Pradhan Shrine...... Mangal Dham...... Nature Interpretation Centre...... Nurseryman's Haven...... (see 19) Pine View...... Rishi Bankim Chandra Park...... Santi Kunj...... Tharpa Choling Gompa...... Thongsa Gompa......

0 0

RC Minti Rd Minti RC DB Giri (Main) Rd (Main) Giri DB

31

Relli Rd Relli KD Pradhan Rd Pradhan KD 14 Hospital

HC Dixit Rd BL Dixit Rd 11 Stand Motor Church 30 Sports MacFarlane Ground 21 Chowk Dambar See Enlargement B

4

20 Rd Main East Rinkingpong Rd Rinkingpong 18 8 6 16 200 m 26

10 5 Upper Cart Rd Cart Upper

0.1 miles Rinkingpong Rd 15 Rinkingpong 3 29

34 Baghdara Rd Baghdara

33 Upper Cart Rd Cart Upper

23 27 DB Giri Rd Giri DB •• Kalimpong WEST BENGAL HILLS 32 DS Gurung Rd Sports

36

Ground

2 Motor Stand Rd

AC Rd Ongden

Chowk Mile 9th Dambar Cart Lower 24 35 25

28

1 Rd Giri SDB 19

0 0 Atisha rd Atisha Lodge (1.3km); To St. Teresa's Church (1km); Teesta Bazaar (15km); Darjeeling (54km); Gangtok (72km); Silgur (67km); Jaigon (140km) To Gurudongma Tashiding Tourist 9 KALIMPONG 5 2 3 1 6 4 Durpin Gompa (3km); Morgan House (1.5km); Jelepla Viewpoint (3km) Tours & Travels (1.3km); lonelyplanet.com WEST BENGAL eminently photographable cactuscollection. DGHC (see DGHC (see p537 ). raftingtripsastheDarjeeling and thesame .gurudongma.com; Hilltop, Rinkingpong Rd) Rinkingpong .gurudongma.com; Hilltop, or squat toilets. Most give youthe optionof sit-down flush bucket hotwater, unlessspecified otherwise. All hotels have private bathrooms andfree BUDGET can dropby50%inthelowseason. March toearlyJune)are given below;prices rates (October toearlyDecemberandmid- of High-season distance theMotorStand. You’ll findcheaper optionswithinwalking areto stay welloutsideKalimpong’s busycore. The mostmemorable (and expensive) places Sleeping andSikkim. around Kalimpong, Darjeeling biking,bird-watching andfishing,mountain interesting tours, including trekking, rafting, Rd; The Activities dra Park the hillissmallbutserene from thetowncentre. About 450mfurtherup activity ontheenvironment.It’saneasywalk of dioramasdepictingtheeffects ised human Around thecourtare anumberof well-organ- the world’smosteducationalbadmintoncourt. mission free; The OTHER ATTRACTIONS AtishaRd;admissionRs5) viewcactus.com; bird of flower;and paradise & 1.30-4pmSun-Fri) at orchids; man’s Haven well asmanyorchid varieties.Visit produces about80%of India’sgladioli,as Kalimpong isamajor flowerexporter and NURSERIES back totown. charter toget ataxi here (Rs80)andthenwalk buildings are 650mfromthere. Many people KDPradhanRdandthe is 4kmupthesteep features windows.Thegate finestained-glass Katherine. The1925 that commemorates thefounderandhiswife 546 Gurudongma Tours & Travels Gurudongma Tours&Travels h Nature Interpretation Centre Interpretation Nature DGHC Tourist Reception Centre Reception DGHC Tourist ETBNA IL • Klmog WEST BENGALHILLS••Kalimpong 9.30am-5pm) (also knownasKalimpong Park). h

Santi Kunj ( 10.30am-4pm Fri-Wed) % to see anthuriumsandthe tosee canarrange treks (see p542 ) 256936; 9thMile)

(BL DixitRd; chapel above theschool has what must be haswhatmustbe Pine View

tohave alook Rishi Bankim Chan- Bankim Rishi (Rinkingpong Rd;ad- (Rinkingpong

( ( % %

togazeatits h 255204; www organises 257992; DB Giri 257992; DBGiri 8.30am-noon (www.pine

Nursery- are very friendlyandthesmallish roomsare very basiclittleplaceonthetopfloorof atall shared bathroomRs100/150) wood-panelled rooms, a cosy TV lounge and wood-panelled rooms, acosyTV 600) d Rs650,withshared bathroomRs450) MIDRANGE &TOPEND lounge about in. an interesting wood-linedatticwithviewsto andmosthaveclean andbright, views.There’s Lodge agoodchoice. furnishings withcharacter make theCrown andsomecomfortablerooms withgeyser, caféandrooftoppleasant viewingarea. handy totown.It’safriendlyplace,with monasteriesand TharpaCholing andstill Tibetan-owned totheThongsa lodge isclose Rd;s/d/trRs250/550/900) Tripai friendly andhelpful. butverybasic affairs, clean,andthehostsare Theroomswithprivate bathroomareStand. raced gardensabout 1kmsouthof theMotor Rs 250/350) clean. Hot-water buckets costRs10. stairs are andtheroomsare steep plainand inthebusiestpartofbuilding right town.The .com; 9th Mile; s/dfromRs850/1050) .com; 9thMile; Tibetan food,downstairs. andChinese Bhutanese, a goodrestaurant andbar,serving pong Rd;dRs700-800) dog-eared disappoint. roomsnevertheless outward appearance,theuninterested and staff and itshow. Boastingaglorioussetting doesn’t government-managed heritage properties–and of thenearbyTashiding TouristLodge –both 1500, dRs1100-2000) tocheckprice itisadvised yourroomfirst. rooms are of questionablefunctionality.Forthis Furnishings are andthebath- rudimentary from theoutsidebutisvery neglected inside. tage, thisrusticstonelodge lookscharming with thefeel of summercot- anabandonedRaj s Rs400-750,d800-1000) and runninghotwater; mostalsohave TVs. All placeslisted here have private bathrooms Deki Lodge Deki Chimal Hotel o Cloud 9 JP Lodge Crown Lodge Morgan House Morgan Tashiding Lodge Tourist The large rooms with TV, private bath- Thelarge roomswithTV, Lodge Himalshree Hotel Chimal is set inlovely Hotel Chimalisset ter-

Holumba Haven (

% ( Book accommodationonlineatlonelyplanet.com %

( % 259554; [email protected]; Rinking- 259554; [email protected];

( 257457; www.jplodge.com; RC Mintri Rd; Mintri RC 257457; www.jplodge.com; % (

% ( % 255095; www.geocities.com/dekilodge; 255095; www.geocities.com/dekilodge; Thisistheupscaleversion Avery friendlyplace,with 255846; offBaghdaraRd;s/dRs350/ 255776; Rinkingpong Rd;s/dfrom 255776; Rinkingpong ( Set inovergrown Set gardens, 255384; Rinkingpong Rd;sRs500- 255384; Rinkingpong %

Thisisafriendlybut ( 255070; OngdenRd;s/dwith % (

% Thisolder-style, 255929; Rinkingpong Rd; Rd; 255929; Rinkingpong Thiswelcoming 256936; www.holumba Thehostshere WEST BENGAL

547 10am- h A popular 257456; off SDB 257456; off SDB % ( 257456; Lal Gulli; mains

The best place to 274042; DB Giri Rd; mains (Primtam Rd;

%

(

% ( (DB Giri Rd) Gompu’s is famous for its Gompu’s is famous for

258650; DB Giri Rd; mains Rs 80-120) (pork, chicken and veg), and veg), and (pork, chicken % (

and filling chow mein are the most the most are mein chow and filling momos A menu covering everything from everything from A menu covering In the China Garden Hotel near the In the China Garden Hotel (SDB Giri Rd; cakes & snacks Rs 5-30)

This small place, hiding below Hotel Sil- This small place, hiding below Hotel Fresh Bite Restaurant Lark’s Provisions 3C’s Gangjong Industry Paper Gompu’s Bar & Restaurant Pizza Pan China Garden Restaurant momos popular orders. RC Mintri Rd there’s a profusion of fabric of a profusion Mintri Rd there’s RC Chi- cloth and Indian or shops selling Tibetan nese silk brocade – both higher in quality and lower in cost than that seen in Darjeeling. 6pm) here in the 19th century. Kalimpong lollipops in the 19th century. Kalimpong here made a history with the cheese; they are share at the dairy from milk, sugar and butter. cheese (per kg Rs 150) and pick up Kalimpong (Rs 25). Also lollipops Kalimpong of a packet sells groceries and crackers. Shopping you wander around you will notice lots of As wholesaleBuddha shops. These shops sell- are from all over and distributors ing to retailers Along India and worth a look for a bargain. though several Indian curries have snuck onto though several Indian curries have the menu. Giri Rd; mains Rs 40-90) Bhutanese, Indian, ChineseTibetan, and con- found within the It’s for ages. tinental fare the same name. of hotel as one The ‘acceptable pizzas for Kalimpong’, local quipped, come in two sizes with a variety indeed toppings, and are and non-veg veg of acceptable, as is the coffee. QUICK EATS cheese has been produced in Ka- Kalimpong established a dairy limpong since the Jesuits Rs 30-60) buffmiso soup to spaghetti steak draws in good quite The food is locals and travellers. which has a country retreat, and the owner is mention. The restaurant he will no doubt from the DGHC. across upstairs, Rs 35-90) best Chinese Motor Stand,Kalimpong’s this is The authentic soups, noodles and restaurant. attract aficionados, chicken the spicy ginger ver Oaks, is a bit whiffy: apparently the fibre Oaks, the fibre is a bit whiffy:ver apparently massive massive with has been pleasing locals and travellers bakery and restaurant offering various pas- offering and restaurant bakery tries and cakes. This This This Com- WEST BENGAL HILLS •• Kalimpong This Raj-era 255304; www.indiamart % (

254043; www.himalayanhotel. 255296; silveroaks@elginhotels % % ( (

274452; Deolo Hill; d Rs 1500) % 255966; DB Giri Rd; mains Rs 8-20) (

% (

This hotel was opened by the revered was opened by the revered This hotel

Shikhar Hotel Silver Oaks Himalayan Hotel Kalimpong Hotel Park

Deolo Lodge hugely popular vegetarian restaurant with Ti- restaurant popular vegetarian hugely betan and Indian snacks and meals is tucked Ultra-cheap restaurant. under the Pizza Pan Besides and options below, most midrange the quality restaurants. have top-end hotels Eating Eating RESTAURANTS and offer grand views down the valley. The and offer tariff includes all meals in the excellent res- bar. a sociable taurant and there’s into a modern and very comfortable hotel. into a modern and very furnished spacious, beautifully The rooms are .com; Rinkingpong Rd; s/d Rs 3800/4100) has beenhomestead delightfully renovated terraces gaze upon Khangchendzonga. terraces old-world charm with modern comfort; their with modern comfort; old-world charm grandson, the original rooms have loads of Raj loads of grandson, the original rooms have appeal beneath high Himalayan-oak ceilings place to socialise and the balcony is a great mesh or curl up with a book. The new suites and one of those who helped the 13th Dalai and one of Lama in 1910. Now run by his escape Tibet David MacDonald, an interpreter from Fran- an interpreter MacDonald, David cis Younghusband’s to Lhasa mission in 1904 co.in; Upper Cartco.in; Rs Rd; s/d Rs 1600/2500, with 3 meals 2400/4100) and ample clean mountain air. staff friendly; there’s a multicuisine restaurant staff a multicuisine restaurant there’s friendly; manding outstanding views (when not lost in sits atop Deolo hotel the cloud), this DGHC from and several kilometres Hill, high above clean and the are town. The spacious rooms flowers line the veranda, and there’s a delight- and there’s line the veranda, flowers The rooms in the new ful bar and restaurant. old house. the of wing lack the charm home of the maharaja of Dinajpur and has Dinajpur of the maharaja home of and chairs Wicker Raj-era charm. oodles of .com/kalimpongparkhotel; Rs 1300/1800) s/d from offwas the former Rinkingpong Rd, hotel, ens, but excellent home-style meals are avail- are home-style meals ens, but excellent an are room. The owners able in the dining history on Kalimpong’s open encyclopaedia and attractions. garden and springwater is piped directly into into is piped directly springwater garden and kitch- attached have cottages the rooms. Some cottages secreted around the lush landscaped the lush landscaped around secreted cottages guesthouse is situated in a splendid orchid guesthouse orchid in a splendid is situated out just 1km nursery, Nurseryman’s Haven, in arranged rooms are town. The spotless of Book accommodation online at lonelyplanet.com online at accommodation Book WEST BENGAL vangla inSikkim(Rs100,3½hours, departs ciation mation canbefound on p528 . trip(Rs95)at8.40am.Borderinfor-the same departs 2.15pm).The government bus makes border,JaigonBhutanese (Rs100,5½hours, Travels Trivini TO/FROM BHUTAN &NEPAL New Jalpaiguri trainstation. class)of (mostlysleeper ticketsquota from Rd; The TRAIN 800), Siliguri(Rs800)andGangtok850). (Rs 70,2½hours). has aregular toDarjeeling share-jeep service 2pm). Association Welfare hours, departs7.15am). (Rs 60,2½hours) andJorenthang (Rs60,two (Rs40,1½hours),80, 2½hours), Kaffer Lava to Siliguri(Rs70,2½hours), Gangtok(Rs tion hours, departs8amand1.45pm). 8am and1.45pm)Kaffer (Rs 80, three (Rs50,1½hours, departs and 1.30pm),Lava to Gangtok(Rs80,three hours, departs7.30am lers Rs 70,3½hours) bustoGangtokat1pm. Transport(SNT; single SikkimNationalised Siliguri (Rs50,2½hours), andthere’s alsoa government runregularlyBengal buses to BUS &JEEP Motor Stand. fices mentionedhere, are foundatthechaotic options,andtheirof- All thebusandjeep Getting There&Away aromatic spices. ers whocanbuyanythingfromflip-flops to bazaar roars tolife, attractingnearbyvillag- Wednesday andSaturday,thisnormallyquiet etc coloured withnaturaldyes. attractive notebooks, greeting cards,lanterns and decay.There’s asmallshowroom selling into thispaperisresistant toallsortsof attack from thebarkof thedaphnetree thatgoes 548 Jeeps canalsobechartered (Rs forDarjeeling Associa- Taxi Welfare Mainline Driver’s Kalimpong Travels Trivini Haat Bazaar Kalimpong Mainline Taxi Driver’s Welfare Asso- Taxi Welfare Mainline Driver’s Kalimpong h

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10am-4pm Mon-Sat,till1pmSun) (KMTDWA; 9434166498) Kalimpong MotorTransport Kalimpong %

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% ( % (btwn Relli & RC Mintri Rds) Mintri &RC (btwn Relli 257979) run minibuses orshare runminibuses jeeps

257311) ( 257979) % 257311) hasregular share jeeps 259544) hasonebustothe hasregular to jeeps and KS &AH has a jeep toRa- hasajeep Himalayan Travel- Himalayan ( sells asmall sells %

Taxi Driver’s ( % 259954; Mani 259954; Mani 255719) On

port forits customers from Kalimpong. in cottages, rooms ortents. It’ll arrange trans- atSamthar,which has accommodation House Kalimpong; s/dfromRs2115/2820) Kalimpong; bustling is asmallvillage withaKagyupa About 35kmeastof Kalimpong, (2353m) Lava Lava &Kaffer (Rs 25)inthedirection of Darjeeling. from Kalimpong; take anybusorshare jeep are andmealsare clean, ifspartan, good. banks of theTeesta River. Thespaciousrooms restaurant andbalconyoverlooking thejungle bathroom&geyserRs450) d withprivate road toKalimpong. about 1.5kmfromTeesta alongthe Bazaar the Kalimpong, butyoucanalsobookhere with p537 orattheDGHC fordetails) in office (see rafting. MostpeoplebookinDarjeeling centrezaar isanimportant forwhite -water About 16kmwestof Kalimpong, Teesta Ba- Teesta Bazaar AROUND KALIMPONG most of should costRs600. thesights rental tosee along SDBGiriRd.Ahalf-day Taxis canbechartered forlocaltripsfrom Getting Around ( information, see p542 . a chance tovisit traditionalvillages. Fortrekking some viewsof Bhutan’sHimalayanrange and This remote and beautifulplateau offers awe- Samthar Plateau 60, 2½hours). (Rs 40,1½hours) andKafferboth Lava (Rs old placeinKaffer runbytheDGHC. clean roomswithfireplaces. It’sarambling bathroom&geyserRs600) Rs 100,dwithprivate mist andmoss-laden old-growth forests. turesque drive fromKalimpong through passes make peacefulandscenicgetaways. Thepic- few further east.Bothvillages touristsand see (1555m), alsoknownasLolaygaon,about30km from Khangchendzonga canbeseen hours). See hours). See p528 forcrossingdetails. the NepalborderatPanitanki (Rs90,three % The friendly Jeeps and a daily bus serve Kalimpong from Jeeps andadailybusserve Teesta isabout30minutes byroad Bazaar Daffey Munal Tourist Lodge Tourist Daffey Munal DGHC 255204; www.gurudongma.com; Hilltop, Rinkingpong Rd, Rd, Rinkingpong 255204; www.gurudongma.com; Hilltop,

( market % 03552-268261; Chitrey WaysideInn,NH-31A) onTuesday.Thesummitof Chitrey WaysideInn Chitrey Gurudongma Tours&Travels runsthecosyFarm (

% lonelyplanet.com 03552-277218; dm boastsabar, gompa

hashuge, (dm Rs100, Kaffer and a anda ,

WEST BENGAL 549 © Lonely Planet Publications Planet Lonely ©

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