arizonahighways.com OCTOBER 2003 OCTOBER 2003 page 50 55 GENE PERRET’S WIT STOP Our author’s feathers are ruffled because the bald eagles wouldn’t perform during his Verde Canyon Railroad tour. COVER/PORTFOLIO HISTORY 14 44 HUMOR 18 The Splendid Artistry Death of a Town 2 LETTERS AND E-MAIL of Mission San Xavier Sonora, Arizona, ceased to exist in 1966 when a burgeoning copper mine swallowed it alive, 46 DESTINATION Special interior photography of the “White Dove leaving its loyal residents to weep in sorrow. of the Desert” reveals the true colors and full Tubac Presidio State Historic Park details of the exquisite 300-year-old works by A self-guided tour transports visitors to an earlier time, when Spanish explorers claimed southern Arizona. craftsmen, painters and sculptors. 40 TRAVEL Crown King 3 TAKING THE OFF-RAMP ARCHAEOLOGY Explore Arizona oddities, attractions and pleasures. 6 The zany community of Crown King in the Ancient Home Bradshaw Mountains boasts a one-hole golf tournament and other offbeat entertainment 54 EXPERIENCE ARIZONA in the Rocks — all in a small-town atmosphere. Cowboy artists gather to show their new work in Phoenix; Rex Allen fans convene to celebrate the late Exploring a cliffside dwelling of early Indians singer-actor in Willcox; visitors experience military life yields faint clues to life in a mysterious culture. RECREATION from the late 1800s at re-enactments in Fort Verde; and 34 costumed characters revisit haunted stories in Prescott. Grand Canyon Hike Avoids the Crowds 49 ALONG THE WAY During the Korean War, some old-enough-to-die GIs at The little-traveled Tonto East Trail below the Fort Huachuca got a chance to be old-enough-to-party. South Rim offers quiet, out-of-the-way views. 50 BACK ROAD ADVENTURE Jerome to Drake Hairpin curves loop around dazzling scenery near the upper Verde River, where old-time miners sought fortune along the 35-mile drive. 56 HIKE OF THE MONTH [THIS PAGE] A warm sunrise Haunted Canyon accentuates the reddish hues of A 7.8-mile one-way hike on Monument Valley’s sandstone Haunted Canyon Trail formations. JAN HUBAR [FRONT COVER] The treasures of in the Superstition Grand Canyon National Park Mission San Xavier del Bac Wilderness is only extend beyond its celebrated a little bit spooky. DRAKE exterior. Join us this month for Verde Canyon Edward McCain’s never-before- JEROME Railroad seen photographs of the recently Mogollon Rim CROWN cleaned and stabilized interior KING artwork. See portfolio, page 18. Haunted COVER PHOTOGRAPH BY JACK DYKINGA PHOENIX Canyon [BACK COVER] The southern edge of Sonora the vast Colorado Plateau, the Mission San Xavier Mogollon Rim towers above POINTS OF TUCSON INTEREST del Bac Arizona’s central highlands. FEATURED IN Tubac Presidio Fort Huachuca JEFF SNYDER THIS ISSUE State Historic Park and e-mail takingthe OCTOBER 2003 VOL. 79, NO. 10 Publisher WIN HOLDEN Arizona oddities, attractions and pleasures Editor ROBERT J. EARLY Senior Editor BETH DEVENY off-ramp Managing Editor RANDY SUMMERLIN Research Editor MARY PRATT Editorial Administrator CONNIE BOCH Administrative Assistant NIKKI KIMBEL Dirty Pictures what to do with inundate the campsites, ruin the THIS MONTH IN Director of Photography PETER ENSENBERGER The Plant After reading the letter about dirty pictures in the fishing and scare away the wildlife. Photography Editor RICHARD MAACK January 2003 issue, I had to find mine and check DANA PARMELEE, Phoenix Detectives ARIZONA Art Director MARY WINKELMAN VELGOS Deputy Art Director BARBARA GLYNN DENNEY it out. I couldn’t find a picture that was either You have touched on a very serious issue that we SCOTT YOUMANS place filled with dead, Deputy Art Director BILLIE JO BISHOP dirty or immodest, so I double-checked to make grapple with nearly every day. There is always a pressed plants may not Art Assistant PAULY HELLER Bandits hold sure I was looking at the right issue. I don’t care danger of uncaring people overrunning, desecrating Map Designer KEVIN KIBSEY sound like an ideal 1875 A up a stage for “dirty” magazines either, but there certainly and even destroying pristine areas and, in the case Arizona Highways Books destination. But, every year a between was nothing wrong with that sculpture. of the indigenous cultures, sacred Indian sites. But WitWorks® Books few thousand do make the trip Phoenix and Editor BOB ALBANO Florence and DEE LIEN, Longmont, CO how can we justify keeping from the public those Associate Editor EVELYN HOWELL to the Herbarium, a museum for make off with lands that are supported by the taxpayers? Indian Associate Editor PK PERKIN MCMAHON plants at the University of $1,400. I read the “Dirty Pictures” letter with great lands are not public domain, and so we often do Production Director CINDY MACKEY Rise Above it All a variety of routes or custom tours. Arizona in Tucson. Thousands Production Coordinator KIM ENSENBERGER amusement. I thought for sure I had missed not name specific locations there. Promotions Art Director RONDA JOHNSON in Sedona The less daring can keep their more people call. something, so I retrieved my January copy and Webmaster VICKY SNOW feet on the ground and merely Have questions about a plant 1883A Globe sheriff and posse kill went to page 5 to see the “immodest” photo Jewelry Model Cover Marketing Director o escape Sedona’s hustle watch others, including the private you found on your travels or in two Globe- PATRICIA POWERS-ZERMEÑO referenced by the letter writer. Oh, good grief! I must congratulate you on what I think was your Florence stage and bustle, head for the Lear jets that use the INDA LONGM your back yard? Need to identify L IR Circulation Director HOLLY CARNAHAN E robbers in a That’s it? “front cover of the year.” The portrayal of Indian T hilltop. From the junction runway at the the plant hanging out of your dog’s gun battle. KAREN KAMP, Tucson jewelry on the May 2003 cover literally stopped me Finance Director ROBERT M. STEELE of State Route 179 and State Sedona Airport mouth or about to be? The in my tracks at the mailbox. Hats off to Fulfillment Director VALERIE J. BECKETT Route 89A in Sedona, take State Restaurant, which people in this basement I was most dismayed to receive the June 2003 photographer Rick Odell and the layout artist for Information Technology Manager 89A approximately 1 mile and serves breakfast, warren of file cabinets and 1888A single robber issue and find numerous pictures of birds and capturing and delivering such genuine, passionate CINDY BORMANIS turn left (south) onto Airport lunch and dinner. shelves can make the holds up a Jerome stage animals photographed without their clothes on. emotion. FOR CUSTOMER INQUIRIES Road. Follow it up to a red-rock Enjoy an identification. Founded OR TO ORDER BY PHONE: and makes off I cannot subscribe to a dirty magazine — what STEffON HAMULAK, Nashville, TN Call toll-free: (800) 543-5432 viewpoint and parking lot. Just excellent prime in 1891, the Herbarium with a booty of $30. would my pets think? In the Phoenix area or outside the U.S., beyond, Sky Ranch Lodge offers rib, watch the contains 400,000 plant Call (602) 712-2000 RICHARD FEE, Mesa There is always a member in every family who can’t Or visit us online at: tranquility, an award-winning light fade from the specimens from aim a camera, and I see that you have yours. The arizonahighways.com garden, a whirlpool spa and a sky and walk back for Arizona, Mexico Tucson police For Corporate or Trade Sales: 1893 Wow! You guys are dirty old men. When can we cover on the May issue was obviously meant to be swimming pool. a soak in the spa. and elsewhere. patrol the Sales Manager HELEN THOMPSON CONNER expect centerfolds? a photo of a beautiful lady. Maybe next month you The Sedona Airport is within Information: Sky Lives have been saved railroad tracks Call (602) 712-2050 as hundreds of BERNARD SOLTAU, Tucson could print a whole picture of the person to satisfy easy walking distance of the lodge. Ranch Lodge, (928) here, crimes investigated, E-MAIL “LETTERS TO THE EDITOR”: unemployed our curiosity. [email protected] For the daring, the bright red and 282-6400 or toll-free (888) 708- dogs kept healthy, all men travel east Wrong Directions LEM LEVERINK, Sterling Heights, MI Regular Mail: yellow biplanes that carry two to along the tracks 6400; Sky Safari, (928) 204-5939 by the people and from California. On page 13 of the May 2003 issue, you say the Editor four passengers and a pilot are or toll-free (888) TOO RIDE, or the plants in a 2039 W. Lewis Ave. Officers give Black River on the San Carlos Apache Reservation I was very impressed with what I could see of Phoenix, AZ 85009 available for tours as short as 10 www.sedonaairtours.com; basement office. each man a loaf of bread and is 160 miles northwest of Phoenix. Actually the Happy Frejo on the cover of your May issue. Any Governor Janet Napolitano minutes or as long as 45. Sky Safari Sedona Airport Restaurant, (928) To ask your questions, call (520) ask him to Black River is approximately 160 miles east- chance of seeing her full face in a future issue? Director, Department of Transportation planes hold six passengers and offer 282-3576. 621-7243. keep moving. Victor M. Mendez northeast of Phoenix. CLINTON TAYLOR, Midvale, UT ARIZONA TRANSPORTATION BOARD PAUL GONNERMAN, Payson Happy Frejo, happily, has a Web site. You can reach Chairman Ingo Radicke, Globe it at happyfrejo.com.