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Who Says Arizona Ain't Green?

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Who Says Arizona Ain't Green? Special Aerial Photos ‘Reading’ the Desert Landscape arizonahighways.com MARCH 2004 Who Says Arizona Ain’t Green? a portfolio {also inside} MARCH 2004 46 DESTINATION Oracle State Park COVER/PORTFOLIO HISTORY 22 30 Visitors to this sprawling retreat in the foothills north Don’t Take ‘Green’ for Granted The Legend of of Tucson can enjoy nature and tour a restored ranch house. Our state is noted for its magnificent deserts, Sacrificed Children mountains and canyons, but there’s also an 42 BACK ROAD ADVENTURE On the Tohono O’odham Nation, a mound of rocks marks abundance of verdant scenery to dazzle your eyes. Navajo Mountain the revered site where, according to the tale, four young Starting at Page, a drive through parts of the Navajo children were chosen to die to save a village. Nation offers spectacular scenery in historic TRAVEL 34 backcountry. The Eagletails Soar Alone ARCHAEOLOGY 14 48 HIKE OF THE MONTH In Arizona’s remote southwestern backcountry, this Prescott’s Underground Secrets Boulder Canyon Trail rugged range sees few visitors hanging around its In the legend-filled Superstition Mountains, this route An archaeological dig reveals evidence of an outcast odd-shaped spires and elaborate petroglyphs. gives up its “treasure” in some of the region’s most Chinese community and a red-light district along striking panoramas. Granite Street, behind Whiskey Row. RANCHING 2 LETTERS & E-MAIL House Rock Valley 18 GEOLOGY ONA P Navajo A Simple Ranch Life 3 TAKING THE ARIZ TRI Mountain 6 OFF-RAMP S on the Arizona Strip An Aerial View of Arizona Explore Arizona Grand Canyon Dixie Northcott and husband Bud chase their cattle in Seen from high above, the state’s mountain ranges, oddities, attractions National Park sight of the Vermilion Cliffs, and it’s a life with canyons, rivers and forests reveal new secrets. and pleasures. PRESCOTT hardships — softened by rewards of incomparable PHOENIX beauty. 40 HIGHWAY TO Eagletail Superstition HUMOR Mountains Wilderness Picacho Peak Oracle State Park 41 ALONG THE WAY Santa Rosa Climbing Picacho Peak TUCSON Tohono O'odham between Phoenix and Tucson Nation seems tame enough — until you hit the really POINTS OF INTEREST FEATURED IN THIS ISSUE steep part. {more stories online} at arizonahighways.com GENE PERRET’S WIT STOP A roadrunner, as we all know, is a bird, so how come it rarely flies — and then only for short distances? ONLINE EXTRA Archaeological Sites Opened [THIS PAGE] Behind Courthouse Rock in the Eagletail Mountains Two unusual archaeological sites near Sierra Vista — a Wilderness of western Arizona, mammoth-kill location and an old Spanish presidio — the full moon pierces a predawn are now developed and open for viewing by the public. sky of rose and lavender. For more on this little-known wilderness WEEKEND GETAWAY area, see the story on page 34. Tombstone’s Other History [FRONT COVER] Bracken ferns and a New Mexico locust in bloom Visitors to Tombstone have a lot more to see and learn provide a verdant counterpoint to about than the account of the brief-but-famous the silvery white trunks of aspen shootout at O.K. Corral. trees in the Blue Range Primitive Area in eastern Arizona. See page EXPERIENCE ARIZONA 22 for a visual tour of Arizona’s Celebrate the Tohono O’odham Indian culture at Organ unexpectedly green places. BOTH BY JACK DYKINGA Pipe Cactus National Monument, or tap your boots [BACK COVER] An aerial view along with the cowboys at the Festival of the West in reveals the ruggedly weathered Scottsdale. landscape of Lake Powell and the Kaiparowits Plateau. See story, page 6. ADRIEL HEISEY {letters & e-mail} Arizona Oddities, Attractions and Pleasures {taking the off- ramp } MARCH 2004 VOL. 80, NO. 3 Publisher WIN HOLDEN Editor ROBERT J. EARLY San Xavier Artwork people who like travel, as your photographs make Senior Editor BETH DEVENY THIS MONTH IN Managing Editor RANDY SUMMERLIN Wow! The article titled “The Hidden Artwork of one yearn for more distant shores. Research Editor MARY PRATT Editorial Administrator CONNIE BOCH June Whitehead, New Plymouth, New Zealand ARIZONA Mission San Xavier” (October ’03) is an absolute Administrative Assistant NIKKI KIMBEL masterpiece. The combination of vivid photography Director of Photography PETER ENSENBERGER E-mail Newsletter and extremely informative text must be considered Photography Editor RICHARD MAACK 1894An epidemic of one of your finest accomplishments. I have been an I just read the “Off-ramp Newsletter” you e-mailed Art Director MARY WINKELMAN VELGOS glanders avid reader of Arizona Highways for 25 years, and I to me and thoroughly enjoyed it. I will look forward Deputy Art Director BARBARA GLYNN DENNEY prompts the Deputy Art Director BILLIE JO BISHOP CARLOS BEGAY Territorial cannot remember having been so moved by an article. to future issues. We have built a home in Mesa and Art Assistant PAULY HELLER On the trading post’s Livestock Bernard L. Fontana and Edward McCain should be plan to move there permanently sometime in 2004. Map Designer KEVIN KIBSEY north wall, a portion Commission to Begay Mural Enlivens Kayenta Trading Post kill horses and highly congratulated for their efforts. As a southern Your articles will provide good “roaming” material Arizona Highways Books of Carlos Begay’s burn their ® mural depicts Navajo Arizona resident, I consider San Xavier to be a very when we get there. WitWorks Books striking mural adorns the cultural richness of the Four that the carcasses to Editor BOB ALBANO sheepherding. stop further special place. Your article certainly does it justice. Bev Quisenberry, Elburn, IL Associate Editor EVELYN HOWELL exterior walls of the Kayenta Corners region,” says Begay, a formerly empty spreading of the Associate Editor PK PERKIN MCMAHON William Boyer, Oro Valley For those who haven’t found it yet, we have started a Trading Post on the Navajo Kayenta resident whose work is walls now sparkle with color. disease. Production Director CINDY MACKEY A free monthly e-mail newsletter. You can subscribe by Reservation. Artist Carlos Begay known around the Southwest. “One man told me the mural is Production Coordinator KIM ENSENBERGER The incredible beauty of the photographs of Mission going to our Web site at arizonahighways.com. Promotions Art Director RONDA JOHNSON painted scenes of Navajo life, in- The post, not far from a happy painting that has a San Xavier filled us with wonder. We visited this Webmaster VICKY SNOW cluding a hogan in winter, rows of Monument Valley, opened in 1914 spiritual quality, and that made me 1898The Arizona Press treasure in 2001, but the photographs and history Poor Ol’ Editor Circulation Director HOLLY CARNAHAN corn to represent the tribe’s and has never closed. Owner feel good,” says Begay. Association of the mission and its artwork are so spectacular, I feel sorry for the poor ol’ editor. I faithfully read Finance Director ROBERT M. STEELE cultural and spiritual ceremonies Melissa Biard says the original Two shops in downtown demands a storage we want to visit again. letters to the editor every month. You certainly get Fulfillment Director VALERIE J. BECKETT and baskets and jewelry to owners built a rock home that still Flagstaff — Thunder Mountain reservoir be Alice and Clarence Wagner, Wausau, WI a variety of kudos and admonishments. You Information Technology Manager represent craftsmanship. stands behind the post. It attracts Traders and Puchteca Indian placed in Pinal CINDY BORMANIS County to help probably tiptoe over eggs and hot coals as you put Begay’s brush also re-created a passersby who remember visiting Goods — sell Begay’s paintings, 4,000 Indians In the late 1920s, I lived in Tucson. In 1927 and together your articles each month. FOR CUSTOMER INQUIRIES local sandstone monolith known as children and stop to have as do the Heard Museum in whose crops 1928, a highlight was when my father took me to We all know that it’s not possible to satisfy OR TO ORDER BY PHONE: as The Toes. Visitors standing at a pictures taken. Phoenix and The White Hogan are dying Call toll-free: (800) 543-5432 because settlers the old Mission San Xavier. Believe it or not, it was everyone all of the time. If I see an article that In the Phoenix area or outside the U.S., certain point in front of the store Begay’s mural takes up 80 feet in Scottsdale. robbed them of in total ruin. I used to crawl up to the top of the doesn’t interest me, I simply skip past it, because Call (602) 712-2000 can see The Toes on the wall, then, of wall space and draws attention For more information about the Gila River water. Or visit us online at: tower on a rickety wooden ladder. We would take there’s always something interesting in the ensuing arizonahighways.com off to the right, see the real thing. to the post, which he calls a mural or the trading post, call our lunch and spend the day around the mission. pages. Keep up the good work and keep smiling. For Corporate or Trade Sales: “The idea was to bring out the community center. He delights (928) 697-3541. Sales Manager HELEN THOMPSON The town of Thus “The Hidden Artwork of Mission San Xavier” John Nelson, Southampton, PA 1899 Call (602) 712-2050 Jerome is was a great reading experience for me. It is hard for What a nice note. Thank you. incorporated. me to believe that the old weathered mission of E-MAIL “LETTERS TO THE EDITOR”: life-zones, creating [email protected] A Little Bit 1928 has been restored to its present elegance. I Revitalized Regular Mail: one of the most varied must return for a visit.
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