THE CHIRICAHUA MOUNTAINS Grand Canyon National Park
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SPECIAL COLLECTOR’S ISSUE SEPTEMBER 2017 ESCAPE • EXPLORE • EXPERIENCE Explore� THE CHIRICAHUA MOUNTAINS Grand Canyon National Park Flagstaff September 2017 Sedona Prescott 2 EDITOR’S LETTER 52 SCENIC DRIVE Tripp Canyon Road: Featuring views of the Gila PHOENIX Pinaleño Mountains 3 CONTRIBUTORS Valley, the Santa Teresa Mountains and the 4 LETTERS green ribbon of the Gila River, along with some Chiricahua Mountains twists, climbs and drop-offs, this route will Bisbee 5 THE JOURNAL require your full attention. By Noah Austin POINTS OF INTEREST IN THIS ISSUE People, places and things from around the Photographs by Jessica Morgan state, including a look back at the day Dinah Shore showed up at Thunderbird Field; our 2017 photo contest winners; and the Shady 54 HIKE OF THE MONTH Dell, which opened in 1927 as a destination Secret Mountain Trail: Unless you’re hiking at campground and today serves as a living the Grand Canyon, there aren’t many trails in museum of vintage aluminum trailers. Arizona with better views than this one. And the walk in the woods is especially nice, too. GET MORE ONLINE 18 THE BIG PICTURES: By Robert Stieve Photographs by Joel Hazelton www.arizonahighways.com THE CHIRICAHUA MOUNTAINS A Portfolio Edited by Jeff Kida 56 WHERE IS THIS? /azhighways @arizonahighways 30 SMALL WONDERS An Essay by Kelly Vaughn 36 THE CHIRICAHUA IS A STUDY IN ROCKS AND HISTORY A story originally published in our March 1943 issue. By Natt N. Dodge Illustrations by George Avey 44 SHE HAS AMAZING FOCUS While most photographers head to the Chir- icahua Mountains for the broad panoramas of deep canyons, sharp ridges and perpendicular rock formations, Eirini Pajak looks for the little things, including violets, irises and pinesaps. She prefers the close-ups, and when it comes to shooting with a macro lens, nobody does it better than Eirini. A Portfolio by Eirini Pajak ◗ A bridled titmouse (Baeolophus wollweberi) perches on a tree 48 A LITTLE CAT GOES A LONG WAY branch. In Arizona, the species is Although they weigh less than a well-fed found primarily in mountains in house cat, jaguarundis have the second- the southeastern part of the state. greatest north-to-south distribution of Bruce D. Taubert CANON EOS DIGITAL REBEL any wild cat in the Americas, ranging from XTI, 1/60 SEC, F/6.3, ISO 400, Argentina to Arizona. Sort of. Chiricahua 500 MM LENS National Monument lists them as “docu- FRONT COVER: Chiricahua Moun- mented historically” in the mountain range, tains illustration by Chris Gall and there have been other sightings in the BACK COVER: The sun sets on the state, but, to date, no one has ever photo- iconic hoodoos of Echo Canyon at graphed a wild jaguarundi in Arizona. Chiricahua National Monument. By Matt Jaffe Joel Hazelton CANON EOS 6D, 10 SEC, F/16, ISO 100, 16 MM LENS 2 OCTOBER 2015 PHOTOGRAPHIC PRINTS AVAILABLE Prints of some photographs in this issue are available for purchase. To view options, visit www.arizona highwaysprints.com. For more information, call 866-962-1191. www.arizonahighways.com 1 editor’s LETTER CONTRIBUTORS JACQUES world headquarters of Arizona Highways. There BARBEY SEPTEMBER 2017 VOL. 93 NO. 9 wasn’t a lot to smile about that day, but Mr. Ani- Photographer Jacques Barbey simov’s sincerity and gratitude made me smile. 800-543-5432 is known for asking Arizona I think it would have made George Avey smile, too. www.arizonahighways.com Highways staffers, “What are Mr. Avey was our longtime art director — he GIFT SHOP: 602-712-2200 you reading?” For this issue, served in that role from 1938 to 1972 — and he Barbey was reading lighting created the “Tombstone” artwork for a map that PUBLISHER Win Holden conditions at the Shady Dell in we were blacklisted in the Soviet we published in 1940. It was one of at least a hun- EDITOR Robert Stieve Bisbee (see The Journal: Lodg- Union. We got the news from dred kitschy illustrations on the map. Last year, ASSOCIATE PUBLISHER, ing, page 16). He’d never been DIRECTOR OF In 1965, Walter Schroeder, a subscriber in three of them, including “Tombstone,” ended up SALES & MARKETING Kelly Mero to the vintage trailer court Rosamond, California. A day or two later, there on diner mugs. And later this year, we’ll be intro- MANAGING EDITOR Kelly Vaughn before — “My experience with trailers was just watching Doris was a story in The New York Times. According ducing three more. One of which will feature ASSOCIATE EDITOR Noah Austin Day and Lucille Ball movies,” he to the paper, the censors at the Kremlin con- the Chiricahua Mountains, a place Natt Dodge EDITORIAL sidered our magazine “provocative literature described in March 1943 as “a panorama of deep ADMINISTRATOR Nikki Kimbel says — but he had heard about clearly intended to conduct hostile propaganda among the Soviet people.” canyons and sharp ridges lined and studded PHOTOGRAPHY EDITOR Jeff Kida it through friends. “It was kind of a different approach for me, because I don’t usually Nyet, no place could be so beautiful, they sneered. with a spectacular array of immense perpendicu- CREATIVE DIRECTOR Barbara Glynn Denney shoot locations,” he says. “[Photo Editor] Jeff Kida wanted me to do something kind of Ironically, Joseph Stalin’s daughter was a paying subscriber at the time, and lar rock figures.” ART DIRECTOR Keith Whitney fun, but when I got there, I was a little concerned that there weren’t many people around. her father was once the recipient of a gift subscription — a collection of maga- Although it’s been nearly 75 years since he I waited until late afternoon, when the light got better, and I met some really good people MAP DESIGNER Kevin Kibsey zines he may have held in his iron fist. Nevertheless, the Soviets shut us out. wrote those words for us, they’re as useful as I was able to photograph.” Barbey used long lenses to give the Shady Dell guests some PRODUCTION DIRECTOR Michael Bianchi In response, Raymond Carlson, our editor emeritus, wrote a stinging edi- ever in depicting one of the most spectacular privacy, and he says he’s thrilled with the result. “The photo gods were with me,” he says. WEBMASTER Victoria J. Snow torial. In addition, politicians and business leaders came to our defense. And landscapes in Arizona. You’ll see some of that These days, Barbey is mostly focused on getting his new studio and gallery in Scotts- so did nationally syndicated columnist Inez Robb, who wrote: “Let’s not be landscape in this month’s portfolio. That’s what CIRCULATION DIRECTOR Nicole Bowman dale up and running. And, in case anyone is wondering, he recently finished reading Neil beastly to the Russians in the matter of Ari- most photographers shoot down there — the FINANCE DIRECTOR Bob Allen Gaiman’s American Gods. zona Highways. Let’s face the fact that to the broad panoramas. But not Eirini Pajak. She OPERATIONS/ IT MANAGER Cindy Bormanis uninitiated this monthly publication exudes prefers a macro lens, and she likes to point it at a faint tincture of snake oil. If all Americans flowers. Violets, irises, pinesaps … those are some CORPORATE OR unfamiliar with the Southwest find it dif- of the wildflowers featured in She Has Amazing TRADE SALES 602-712-2018 JESSICA MORGAN ficult to credit the publication’s magnificent Focus. In all, there are more than a thousand SPONSORSHIP SALES color photographs, how can we expect the plant species in the park. There’s a lot of wildlife, REPRESENTATION On Media Publications We’ve published a couple Todd Bresnahan comrades and the commissars to be of firmer too. “Occasionally, the tracks of a bear, cougar 602-445-7169 of Jessica Morgan’s photos faith? And, in truth, it is subversive. Once or wild turkey are found,” Mr. Dodge wrote. He in the magazine this year, you are hooked on Arizona Highways, it is goes on to list several other mammal species, but this month, Morgan’s LETTERS TO THE EDITOR [email protected] habit forming — you begin to believe, and including skunks, badgers and foxes, but there’s 2039 W. Lewis Avenue first assignment forArizona then you want to go, go, go. Yes, the Russians no mention of jaguarundis. Phoenix, AZ 85009 Highways took her up Tripp would do well to keep it out of their country.” Huh? Jaguarundis? Canyon Road (see Scenic With hindsight, the ban was ridiculous. You’re right to be curious. The name conjures GOVERNOR Douglas A. Ducey Drive, page 52) in the Pina- Or cockamamie, as Barry Goldwater might a pack of fictional predators in a Stephen King DIRECTOR, leño Mountains. “I’ve lived in DEPARTMENT have said. But that was then. Today, more novel, but jaguarundis are real. They can be OF TRANSPORTATION John S. Halikowski Southern Arizona for almost than 50 years later, we’re viewed far more found throughout Central and South America, 20 years, but I hadn’t visited favorably in that part of the world. In fact, they’ve been “documented historically” in the Arizona Highways® (ISSN 0004-1521) is published month- the Pinaleños prior to this one of our most loyal readers lives in Zlatoust, Chiricahua Mountains, and there’s a steady ly by the Arizona Department of Transportation. Subscrip- assignment,” she says. “What tion price: $24 a year in the U.S., $44 outside the U.S. a breathtaking mountain a city in the Chelyabinsk region of Russia. stream of sightings around the state. However, as Single copy: $4.99 U.S. Call 800-543-5432. Subscription His name is Vladimir Anisimov, and on Feb- Matt Jaffe writes in A Little Cat Goes a Long Way, cor respon dence and change of address information: Ari- range.” And she means that ruary 27, 2017, he sent me an email.