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MEn of thE WEEk Plus: Costs and charges weighed on Kenneth Highland Fling Cole in the first quarter, leading to a steeper- Marc Jacobs and Robert Duffy showed some leg by donning kilts at than-expected loss. the Costume Institute gala. Page MW2 Page MW2 May 5, 2011 BRAND BUILDING Peerless Puts Leisure Muscle Behind Tallia Orange Suit Tailored clothing giant Tailored clothing manufacturers branches out with own continue to take the man out of updated label. the boardroom and into vacation mode. softly by JEAN E. PALMIERI constructed suits in light hues, unlined PEERLEss INtERNAtIoNAL has built blazers and tropical a $500 million-plus business manufactur- ing tailored clothing under license for fabrics such as linen some of the industry’s top brands, includ- and seersucker ing Lauren by Ralph Lauren, Calvin Klein, are the highlights Michael Kors and DKNY. But despite its of this season’s more than 90-year history, the Montreal- based company owned by Alvin segal and offerings. For one of the largest clothing manufacturers more, see pages in the world, has never produced its own 4 and 5. branded label. All that changed two years ago when tallia orange was born. the brainchild of Ronnie Wurtzburger, president of Peerless and the face of the company, tallia orange provides European sensibility at moderate prices, something Wurtzburger said “did not exist in the midtier.” For example, tallia suits are promoted at $295 for polyester-viscose blends and $395 for worsted wool three-piece models. there are also sport coats that retail for $199 on average, dress shirts are $75, neck- wear is $49.50 and outerwear sells for $165 to $295. A fancy military peacoat retails for $325 and is the line’s most expensive piece. Although rooted in tailored clothing, the line is targeted to be sold in the men’s de- signer collection area at department stores. Its primary distribution is at Macy’s, which launched the collection in spring 2009. It is also sold in specialty stores including Boyds in Philadelphia, where Wurtzburger said a tallia velvet blazer “sat between Gucci and Etro, but ours was $295.” Ken Gushner, co-owner of Boyds, said the line was introduced three seasons ago Wilhelmina and “performs very well. We merchandise @ it in our contemporary clothing depart- m. ment, where it hangs with DKNY, Hugo Boss and Halston. It brings color, fun and a mason whimsical spirit to a dull category — all at a very accessible price point.” model: A hallmark of the brand is its orange point- of-sale efforts. Mannequins, hangtags, hang- badia; ers, rugs, graphics — all are in a bright orange alex hue that stands out on the selling floor. by “Ronnie fell in love with Isaia’s red man- nequins at saks,” said suzanne Anderson, styled creative director for Peerless. Anderson said when tallia arrives on the selling floor xelman; and is merchandised with the other suits, a the orange hangers stand out “in a sea of Boss Black’s linen suit and Gant Jakob black. And orange is a color that a lot of guys Rugger’s cotton shirt. Canali by can relate to, so we decided to go for orange. pocket square worn as scarf. Photos {Continued on page MW6} MW2 WWD thursday, may 5, 2011 Men’s Week Superdry Planning Major Kenneth Cole Posts Loss in 1Q stoRE CLosINgs and severance Paul Blum, vice chairman, said the charges, including those to its former management team is “collaborating on Retail Expansion in U.S. chief executive officer, contributed a concise strategy to take advantage of to a first-quarter loss at Kenneth Cole the many opportunities in front of the Productions Inc. organization,” but that it’s too early to by JEAN E. PALMIERI ing colored hoods; surplus-inspired outerwear; the firm said Wednesday that, for elaborate on the specifics. leathers, and sweaters. With the t-shirts, each the three months ended March 31, the the company expects second-quar- AftER A stRoNg debut here two years ago, graphic is used on only one style and offered in loss was $17.2 million, or 94 cents a ter earnings of between 2 cents and 4 superdry is planning a retail rollout in the U.s. only one color per season. diluted share, against earnings of $1.8 cents a share. In addition, it expects to the U.K.-based apparel brand, which oper- the t-shirts mimic fifties garage culture, million, or 10 cents, in the year-ago remain in clearance and liquidation ates 110 stores worldwide, granted a license Martens said, and feature tin-tab hangtags that quarter. store closings and severance mode during the second quarter. in 2009 to sDUsA, a division replicate the graphic on the shirt. charges for the current quarter were shares fell 74 cents, or 5.4 percent, of sunrise Brands LLC. since A look from these have become collectibles, $16 million, partially offset by $3.5 mil- to $12.86 in New York stock Exchange that time, it has opened six superdry. he said. the t-shirts retail for lion in deferred rent income. trading Wednesday. stores in the states: a flagship in around $30, and the vast majority Analysts were expecting a loss of separately Wednesday, Bernard New York’s NoHo area, as well of the line sells for under $100. 21 cents a share, according to Yahoo Chaus Inc. said that a subsidiary of as units in Paramus, N.J., Las superdry also has a wholesale finance. China ting group Holdings Ltd., its Vegas, Beverly Hills, and san component, and about 40 percent Revenues rose 7.3 percent to $117.5 exclusive supplier of merchandise pur- francisco. there’s also an outlet of its sales will come from that million from $109.5 million. same-store chased in Asia, had acquired 3 million in Woodbury Common, in Central distribution channel by the end sales rose 2.7 percent, but consumer di- shares of the company’s common stock Valley, N.Y. of the year, Martens said. the rect revenues fell 10.2 percent to $33.2 for $300,000, or 10 cents a share. superdry will add a store in line is sold in Bloomingdale’s, million while wholesale volume rose the China ting stake represents half santa Clara, Calif., at the Valley Nordstrom, Macy’s and 150 19.3 percent to $74.5 million. of the 6 million shares sold by Kenneth fair mall later this month as specialty stores, including Ron Jill granoff stepped down as ceo of Cole back to Chaus after Chaus’s license well as a unit at the south street Herman. “We want to keep a good the company on feb. 28. According to to produce Kenneth Cole sportswear seaport in lower Manhattan balance,” Martens said. “We don’t a regulatory filing with the securities was terminated in october. in June. A store in the Mall of want to flood the market. We’re and Exchange Commission, under the the remainder of the shares America, in Bloomington, Minn., looking for responsible growth.” terms of her employment contract she were purchased by Camuto group in is slated for a July opening. And with a lot of “high-volume will receive cash payments of about february, at which time Chaus said According to Michael Martens, stores” opening here later this $3.7 million. that Camuto “and another party with president of superdry UsA, the year, the percentage attributed Kenneth Cole, chairman, interim whom the company has a commercial company is planning to open 10 to to retail will be larger. Ultimately, ceo and chief creative officer, told Wall relationship” had expressed interest in 12 stores a year for the next four he said, he expects a “50-50 split.” street analysts on a conference call that the stock. years, depending upon availabil- Martens said the company has the firm was not pleased with the re- Cole had paid $1 a share for the ity of space. “finding the right worked to get its name known sults, but is taking the necessary steps Chaus stock in 2005 and sold it back property is key,” he said. in the U.s. by getting involved for growth and profitability. at 10 cents a share. the price paid by the brand has performed well at events such as the sundance He also told analysts the company Camuto wasn’t disclosed. since it made its debut in the U.s. film festival that “resonate with took higher than typical markdowns to shares of Chaus closed unchanged that, coupled with its popularity our customer.” the company move excess inventory, and expects “in- Wednesday at 16 cents. in Europe, prompted the retail rented a bar in Park City, Utah, ventories to be at appropriate levels by — Vicki M. Young and expansion in America and dic- and hired an up-and-coming the end of June.” arnold j. karr tates where the stores will be lo- band, drawing celebrities such cated. the company seeks spots as Penn Badgley, Adrian grenier that draw a mix of international and Danny Masterson. tourists and domestic customers, When the seaport store opens, Pringle’s New Passions he said, or “places that play to our Martens said superdry may host two strengths.” a softball or kickball game rather than throw a by sAMANtHA CoNtI Alistair Martens said superdry would like to open ad- traditional party. carr ditional stores in the Los Angeles market and is “We want to get our product on the right LoNDoN — Pringle of scotland is rapidly also looking at Boston, Chicago and Miami. the people,” he said, noting that university students remodeling itself into a leaner, more fo- average store measures around 2,000 square feet receive a 10 percent discount.