SUMMER 2016 £7 where sold
LONDON THE OFFICIAL LUXURY LIFESTYLE MAGAZINE
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IN LONDON 2016 VOLUME THIRTEEN ISSUE THREE ■ VOLUM ■ ART & MISSONI ■ SPIRITED ■ SOPHISTICATED ■ SMART
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VOGUE PROFILE
it instead.” Cubitts also promises absolutely none ofthem the apressured replacement up-selling pair, but that we can are make happy choosing to fix frames so intimidating, with anti-scratch and anti-glare coatings offered as standard. Each Cubitts frame is handcrafted from a sheet of high-quality Italian acetate, passing through
are conceived by Broughton himself, drawing inspiration50 stages of from production a life-long over obsession six weeks. with Designs eyewear. This personal touch runs through the heart of the business – from the modest start-up capital painstakingly saved up by Broughton over a decade, to the brand’s proud connection with London. King’s Cross, once the hub of London’s spectacle industry and the home of Cubitts, runs as a theme throughout the products. Each design is named after a local
in the area appear as a motif on all frames. Even thestreet handmade and the butterflyglasses cases rivets contain found ona distinctive buildings mustard lining inspired by the bricks of the iconic King’s Cross train station. Broughton has also stayed true to supporting industry in his city, establishing workshops in Soho and Borough, with another opening in Islington shortly. He envisages the new 2,000 square foot site as a kind of craft hub, where the brand can create the large product runs that big retailers have been requesting, while also training up a fresh generation of makers. “We want this new space to be a place
Broughton, who was inspired by London’s Hackspace, that encourages people to make things,” explains
thea not-for-profit public. His vision organisation for craftsmanship providing free is modern use of andtechnology involves such combining as 3D printers new technology and laser cutterswith to
learningtraditional to cutskills. frames. “If you That talk isn’t to spectacle practical anyexperts more, sothey’ll it’s aboutdescribe using the technology first 10 years to unlock they spent those just traditional frame-making skills to create the same IMAGES: MAIN: CUBITTS GLASSES © GARÇONJON. THIS PAGE: CUBITTS BOROUGH SHOP © GARY DIDSBURY DIDSBURY GARY GARY © © SHOP SHOP BOROUGH BOROUGH CUBITTS CUBITTS PAGE: THIS THIS GARÇONJON. GARÇONJON. © © GLASSES GLASSES CUBITTS CUBITTS MAIN: IMAGES: This very contemporary approach has been crucialoutcome to in the six success hours ratherof Cubitts. than “We two started days,” he online says. and, although we didn’t market ourselves, we built such a following that by the time we opened our CUBITTS mailing list,” says Broughton. “In the past, we would haveshop hada year to latergo through we had a 10,000large retailer names and on thehope “I’ve worn glasses all my life and I could never gained popularity for its no-nonsense approach that over time consumers would get to know who understand why there weren’t more British to selling, and stylish frames that blend traditional we are. Thanks to the internet, that wasn’t necessary spectacle brands,” says Cubitts founder Tom crafts with modern technology. and I don’t think we would have had the same success Broughton. “London was once the optical centre “One of our core principles is never to overwhelm had we not started this way.” Even Broughton admits the customer,” explains Broughton. “So we only ever he has been taken back by the speed of growth, but made in Soho in 1730.” However, it was the National have 20 optical styles, 20 sunglasses and 10 colours. A NOTE FROM Healthof the world Service and (NHS) the �irst that ever unwittingly pair of glasses brought was When we introduce a new design, we retire an old about the demise of British spectacle brands in the one – it’s all very considered.” Broughton is also washe is all confident about big-name that consumer brands, tastes and then are moving people in early 1980s, when it ended the scheme that provided passionate about quality craftsmanship that lasts. wantedfavour of fast, companies affordable like fashion Cubitts. from “In the the high 1990s street,” it free frames to all citizens, triggering the collapse of “We use pin drilling to attach the front of our glasses the industry. Since then, a few independent frame to the back. It takes more time and skill than brand that does one thing, really well.” makers such as Cutler and Gross have entered the standard heat sunk hinges, but it means if someone he explains. “But now is the age of the independent market, but none has achieved success on quite 37 Marshall Street, W1F 7EZ. the scale of Broughton’s Cubitts, which has rapidly People are always amazed we haven’t tried to sell 020 7287 0564. www.cubitts.co.uk breaks the hinge, we can repair it in �ive minutes.
38 39 THE EDITOR 031_IN SUMMER ACCESSORIES.indd 38 C 17/05/2016 09:05 031_IN SUMMER ACCESSORIES.indd 39 17/05/2016 09:05
I’d wager that London is a destination that is dif�icult to beat at this time of year. Summertime in the capital sees the city come alive with a dazzling array of events – from those that traditionally form the social summer season such as the Royal Academy’s Summer Exhibition and preview party, to one-off Where the wild extravaganzas such as the Bolshoi Ballet’s Diamond Jubilee season at the Royal things are
Photographer: Oliver Pearce Stylist: Thea Lewis-Yates Models: Clara Mcsweeney at Elite Opera House. Although one can’t always guarantee that the sun will shine in and Daniela Salvalaggio at Storm Make-up: Carolyn Gallyer at CLM using Sisley Hair: Gow Tanaka using Bumble and Bumble Photographer’s assistant: Daniel Hack Hudson cotton/organza skirt, Stylist’s assistant: Kate Sinclair Wesley tex cotton stripe shirt and UK production: Prana Production skirt by MOTHER OF PEARL; a blaze of warming glory, this is without doubt one of the best times of year South Africa production: Jason Williams boots by BLITZ VINTAGE
to visit the city – but don’t just take my word for it. 042_IN SUMMER FASHION SHOOT***.indd 42 17/05/2016 09:22042_IN SUMMER FASHION SHOOT***.indd 43 17/05/2016 09:24 Simon Calder, undoubtedly one of the UK’s best known travel journalists, has taken time out of his busy schedule to pen his thoughts on what makes this metropolis such a dynamic and vibrant hub during the months of June, July and August. With an appeal to navigate the capital’s streets either by foot or by bike, ARNAUD VANESSA BY ILLUSTRATION IMAGE: Calder �irmly believesIN that London London is one of the best places for maximising one CREATURESBeautiful Celebrating the spring/summer 2016 season with a showcase of luxurious and colourful beauty collections of life’s most precious commodities: time. Photographer: Mitch Payne at Skinny Dip Art director: Thea Lewis-Yates at Sarah Laird & Good Company Prop stylist: Maya Linhares-Marx at Carol Hayes Management With this in mind, ’s team of creative talent has been hard at work Photographer's assistant: Matthew Aland curating the very best that the summer season has to offer so you don’t have to. CHANEL Dragon�ly created using colours from Chanel’s Les 4 Ombres Multi-Effect Quadra eyeshadow palette Tissé Beverly Hills, Illusion D’Ombre eyshadows in Ocean Light and Grif�ith Green and Le Vernis Sunset Trip nail gloss from the spring 2016 L.A. Sunrise collection. Other colours include Le Vernis Vibrato On page 17, still-life photographer Michael Hedge and illustrator Eleni Sofroniou nail colour, Illusion D’Ombre Long Wear Luminous eyeshadow in Mirage and Signe Particulier 4 Eyeshadow Collection combine their talents to produce a stunning take on our edit of this summer’s
must-have pieces – I hope you’ll �ind it inspiring. 056_IN SUMMER BEAUTY SHOOT.indd 56 17/05/2016 09:35 056_IN SUMMER BEAUTY SHOOT.indd 57 17/05/2016 09:36 For those with a diary packed full of social engagements this season, surely there are few more annoying dilemmas than �inding your perfect out�it and TOWN DINING TOWN DINING realising that you have nothing to go with it. Ready and willing to help those stuck in such a quandary, London’s collection of top accessory designers and
�inding great ingredients.” Among the wild foods visitors can expect on the menu this summer are gooseberries, wood sorrel, wild garlic, watercress, chickweed and yarrow. But aside from the fun of �inding ingredients in the wild, what is it about this makers can ensure that your Royal Ascot hat is talked about for all the right approach that appeals to Westcott? “I love to use wild ingredients as they bring different �lavours and unique dimensions to a dish. Some add acidity, some provide NATURE’Searthiness and LARDERsome give a peppery taste,” he says.
Indeed, much of the produce used in James Lowe’s reasons and you step out in shoes tailored exclusively for you. Turn to page 31 restaurant, Lyle’s, is regularly picked fresh from just a stone’s throw away in east London. “Nature knows best,” is his philosophy, and despite its trendy Shoreditch location, his Michelin-starred restaurant has an understated simplicity that lets the food do the intrigue and colour,” says chef Tom Aikens, who, CREAM talking. The British seasonal menu includes locally at the age of just 26, was the youngest ever chef sourced dishes, with ingredients that are foraged from to win two Michelin stars for his eponymous wherever possible, such as suckling kid belly, ramson restaurant in Chelsea. Unsurprisingly, he once had and goat’s curd. The ramson (wild garlic �lowers) Lee Westcott as his protégé. His empire has since to learn more about the companies those in the know have on speed dial. OF THE CROP will have been picked that day. However, cooking grown to encompass four branches of Tom’s Kitchen with seasonal produce isn’t a conscious decision, (in Chelsea, Somerset House, Canary Wharf and St Beatrice Squires enjoys the wonder of seasonally sourced produce and doffs according to Lowe, it is just a normal part of cooking. Katharine Docks), which serve “high-end comfort “It would be more dif�icult for me to source, cook and food”. He also has a delicatessen and bar aboard her cap to the London chefs who are masters of nature’s bounty create dishes at a restaurant that doesn’t use seasonal HMS Belfast on the Thames near London Bridge. produce. It just makes sense to use produce that is at His ethos is simply to use seasonal and locally sourced its peak; it’s more exciting as a cook to do so, and it ingredients of the highest quality wherever possible. aving once lagged behind in the culinary such as Bruno Loubet’s Grain Store in King’s Cross. results in better food,” he comments. And it seems that the options for �ine dining Elsewhere, Thea Lewis-Yates has taken the best of the spring/summer 2016 world, London has earned a reputation Here, there is an emphasis on sustainable cooking, Also inspired by what she sees growing and with �lowers and botanicals are boundless. Aikens as one of the world’s top gastronomic with vegetarian dishes the stars of the show. Taking blossoming around her, Skye Gyngell of Spring in suggests cooking dishes with borage, which has a Hdestinations. Although it’s hard to pinpoint a leaf out of Bruno’s book, Lee Westcott, head chef Somerset House �inds much of her produce in the cucumber-like �lavour that complements light food exactly what has made this happen, one of the of Bethnal Green favourite Typing Room, has been wild. With its light-�illed, pastel-coloured interior, such as salmon and salads. Nasturtiums, meanwhile, reasons must be the formidably talented chefs praised for pushing Britain’s national cuisine in a the restaurant has a feminine feel. Gyngell’s menu, have a more peppery taste, which can work well with working their magic here. It’s not just a passion for new direction, by “building outrageously intricate which complements this aesthetic with the use of �ish or lamb. He also recommends using white clover cooking that sets these individuals apart. Now, more dishes from local produce”, according to the food edible foraged �lowers, features grilled lamb with �lowers, which can be steeped in vinegar, or dried than ever before, there’s a heightened consciousness website Great British Chefs chamomile, asparagus, wild garlic and celery leaf marigolds to brighten up a dish such as risotto, clear collections across both fashion and beauty to create not one but two breathtaking around ethically, seasonally sourced produce, an raisins, capers and mint are a prime example). salsa verde or �illet of beef with courgette �lowers, soup or �ish bouillon. “Any dish, both sweet and emphasis on impeccable presentation and a respect Westcott and his team regularly (yeasted forage cauli�lower, for to name just some. This respect for beautiful savoury, can be enhanced by edible �lowers and for even the most seemingly banal ingredients. ingredients in and around London. It’s not just THEingredients BEAUTY that runs OF throughout. BOTANICALS herbs,” says Aikens. “From nasturtium and thyme www.grainstore.com Take the example of the humble vegetable. What the result of searching for wild food that brings �lowers to fennel pollen.” www.lyleslondon.com was once regarded as an inferior accompaniment to satisfaction, says Westcott, but also the act: “Foraging Whether these top London chefs use locally www.springrestaurant.co.uk itself is incredibly rewarding. It brings the whole team sourced, organic seasonal produce, wild food or www.tomskitchen.co.uk just as important, if not more so, in various restaurants together and reminds us how much effort goes into SPRING OF COURTESY SPRING FROM DISH ROOM; TYPING OF COURTESY ROOM TYPING FROM DISH PHOTOGRAPHY; GRIFFEN DAVID © KITCHEN TOM’S AT DISHES IN USED FLOWERS TOP: FROM CLOCKWISE IMAGES, PAGE: THIS KITCHEN. TOM’S OF COURTESY DISH SALMON PAGE: FACING IMAGES: “Flowers not only add a touch of elegance to a dish, beautiful botanicals, one thing is clear: nature does www.typingroom.com meat and �ish has now risen up the ranks to become they also add a unique �lavour dimension to starters, indeed know best, and what better season than mains, desserts and cocktails as well as a bit of summer to showcase it in all its glory? shoots. Our main fashion story (page 42) is inspired by one of the hottest trends 62 63
to trot off the SS16 catwalks – the prairie girl – and I’m more than a little 062_IN SUMMER DINING SEASONAL INGREDIENTS - PLEASE SUB THE TWO PAGE VERSION.indd 62 17/05/2016 09:42 062_IN SUMMER DINING SEASONAL INGREDIENTS - PLEASE SUB THE TWO PAGE VERSION.indd 63 17/05/2016 09:44 obsessed with Elie Saab’s Gardenia white lace gown modelled so ethereally by INSPIRE BEST BRITISH GARDENS Clara Mcsweeney at Elite. The season’s best beauty collections, meanwhile, have Buckingham Palace Gardens, London train and bus from London, it’s well worth the Explore a secret walled oasis behind the Palace with its wisteria-clad summer house, fragrant rose topiary birds and a lady’s smock-fringed pond garden, herbaceous borders and the vast lawns trek. Highlights include the wildflower meadow, BRITAIN IN BLOOM where The Queen holds her exclusive invite-only feeding frenzy during the summer months. garden parties by booking a special Garden Tour wherewww.greatdixter.co.uk sweet nectar sends butterflies into a David G. Taylor celebrates the vibrancy of green spaces during Buckingham Palace’s Summer Opening been turned into pretty butter�lies and dragon�lies (page 56), creating one of the with a look at some of the country’s best gardens (July 23-August 31). At 39 acres, the garden is home Hampton Court Palace, Surrey
a lake and garden ornaments such as the huge a geometric Privy Garden restored to its former eclared the ‘Year of the English Blenheim Palace, Oxfordshire marbleto 350 types urn known of wildflower, as the 1815 more Waterloo than 200 Vase. trees, glorySixty acresand the of gardens,world’s oldest 200,000 vine flowering planted inbulbs, 1768 Inhale the heady scents of the rose and lavender www.royalcollection.org.uk are among many reasons to visit this Tudor gem. celebrating our most sublime gardens, visit the Art Deco fountains of the Water Once home to King Henry VIII and situated half an examplesGarden’, 2016 and �indsmarking VisitEngland the 300th Terraces, hunt for the secret garden, visit the Great Dixter House & Gardens, East Sussex hour from London by train, visitors to the Palace The former home of the British gardening writer won’t want to miss the rose garden in bloom, July’s most striking beauty shoots I have come across in a long time. Dgardener, the 18th-century designer Lancelot in front of the Grand Cascade waterfalls, designed Christopher Lloyd (1921-2006), whose books RHS Hampton Court Palace Flower Show and a ‘Capability’ anniversaryBrown. Born of in Britain’s Northumberland �irst celebrity in tropical butter�ly house and pose for photographs include The Well-Tempered Garden, is open to the rare showing of Catherine the Great’s collection 1716, Brown went on to pioneer a naturalistic take a 20-minute seven-seater buggy tour around public. Situated close to England’s southeastern of drawings and watercolours in an exhibition look that became famous around the world for theby ‘Capability’ lake or follow Brown one ofin the the walks 1760s. designed Visitors to can take entitled The Empress and The Gardener. Depicting epitomising the style of the quintessential English in the best vistas. With parklands, formal gardens views of the Palace, park and gardens, the works and a 12th-century wood, Blenheim Palace is an swathescoast, it boastsof daisies a series and oriental of stunning poppies gardens to towering filled date from the same period that ‘Capability’ Brown and fragrances as we guide you around our hour and 50 minutes from London by train and bus. lupinsto bursting which with almost colourful pierce plants the vast and expanse flowers, offrom served as chief gardener to King George III. I hope you have a very pleasant stay. handpickedcountry garden. highlights. Enjoy a sensation of fauna, �lora www.blenheimpalace.com blue sky overhead. At less than two hours by www.hrp.org.uk IMAGE: BLENHEIM PALACE COURTESY OF BLENHEIM PALACE BLENHEIM OF COURTESY PALACE BLENHEIM IMAGE:
GARDEN EVENTS CALENDAR
Festival Weekend, across England www.ngs.org.uk• June 4-5: National Gardens
World Live, Birmingham www.bbcgardenersworldlive.com• June 16-19: BBC Gardeners’
Squares Weekend, London www.opensquares.org• June 18-19: Open Garden
The Contemporary Garden & Lifestyle Fair,• June Hampstead 24-26: Grow Heath, London: London www.growlondon.com
Palace Flower Show, Surrey www.rhs.org.uk• July 5-10: RHS Hampton Court
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Kathryn Conway, Group Editor 080_IN SUMMER Inspire Gardens.indd 80 17/05/2016 10:02080_IN SUMMER Inspire Gardens.indd 81 17/05/2016 10:02 Follow us on twitter @InLondonMVP Visit www.inlondonmagazine.com 6
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