Bedazzled NEW YORK — Add Some Sparkle to Your Life

PPR’S GUCCI SOARS/2 DIOR SALES CLIMB/20 WWDWomen’s Wear DailyWEDNESDAY • The Retailers’ Daily Newspaper • July 21, 2004 • $2.00 Sportswear Bedazzled NEW YORK — Add some sparkle to your life. Embellishments are popping up everywhere, from sequin-trimmed dresses to pearl-beaded sweaters. And these playful looks are perfect for the girl on the go. Here, for example, Iisli’s cotton and rayon dress with pearl mesh beading. For more, see pages 6 and 7.

Wexner Buoys Bendel’s: Plans New Branch Outlet And Might Grow Chain By David Moin

MI; STYLED BY ANTONIA SARDONE MI; STYLED BY NEW YORK — Leslie Wexner, chairman and chief executive officer of Limited Brands, is ready to give the Henri Bendel division another shot at expansion. ROANNA/WARREN TRICO ROANNA/WARREN Bendel’s operates just one store, a flagship on Fifth Avenue and 55th Street, but a branch store, possibly a prototype for a potential chain of specialized Bendel’s units, will be opening in the fall Y TIMOTHY PRIANO; MAKEUP BY in the Easton Town Center in Columbus, Ohio, where Limited is based. Last Friday, Wexner disclosed in a letter to associates that work has begun on “an

Y LAURA NAKAMOTO/ARTISTS B NAKAMOTO/ARTISTS Y LAURA exciting new launch” of Henri Bendel at See Bendel’s, Page20 PHOTO BY THOMAS IANNACCONE; MODEL: YULIA/ELITE; HAIR B PHOTO BY 2 WWD, WEDNESDAY, JULY 21, 2004 WWW.WWD.COM WWDWEDNESDAY Sportswear PPR’s Gucci Increases Sales GENERAL By Robert Murphy Gucci brand sales gained 4.6 two of Ford’s underlings. Henri Bendel is set to expand with a branch store in the Easton Town Center percent to 334.7 million euros, or He said orders for their collec- 1 in Columbus, Ohio, that could serve as a prototype for a specialized format. PARIS — France’s Pinault- $411.6 million, while Yves Saint tions had surged 50 percent in the France’s PPR gave evidence of the health of Europe’s luxury firms, Printemps-Redoute on Tuesday Laurent advanced 14.5 percent to U.S. and 100 percent in Europe. 2 reporting double-digit sales increases at its Gucci Group division. gave more evidence that Europe’s 37.6 million euros, or $46.2 mil- He added that the response had luxury firms are enjoying hearty lion. Bottega Veneta surged 48.1 been “positive” to John Ray’s EYE: A moveable feast at Buckingham Palace with Prince Charles and growth, reporting double-digit percent to 21.8 million euros, or debut men’s collection at Gucci, 4 Camilla Parker Bowles...Princess Di’s crown jewel...Sorvino’s bambino. sales increases at its Gucci Group $26.8 million. shown on the Milan runway in Sean “P. Diddy”Combs has formed a nonpartisan group called Citizen division in the two months since Sales at Sergio Rossi, the shoe June, as well as to accessories 5 Change to target young Americans with a blunt message: “Vote or Die.” the departure of its star manage- house, rose 3.5 percent to 20.4 created by Frida Gianni. ment and design duo, Tom Ford million euros, or $25.1 million. Pilati and Facchinetti both FASHION: Designers are using fun and whimsical trims, such as colorful and Domenico De Sole. Gucci also runs the Boucheron will make highly anticipated 6 beads, stones and studs, on cotton dresses, silk tunics and cashmere knits. Serge Weinberg, PPR’s chief jewelry business, Bedat & Co. formal runway debuts in front of For a brand as prestigious as Badgley Mischka, the so-far-unfruitful executive, said sales at Gucci watches and the fashion houses the critical press this fall. 10 process of finding a new financial backer has retail clients baffled. gained 17.7 percent on a compa- of Alexander McQueen, Stella “Recent sales trends and the rable basis in May and June. “We McCartney and Balenciaga, all of positive response to Gucci WEST: General Growth Properties is in a battle to stop a proposed $300 are moving in the right direction,” which made “excellent head- Group’s latest collections fur- 22 million open-air lifestyle center from being built next to its Glendale Galleria. Weinberg said in a conference way,” PPR said. ther bolster our confidence in The Atlanta DIVA Awards section appears on pages 11-18. call, commenting on PPR’s first- By zone, Gucci Group’s highest the brand portfolio and teams at half sales, which fell 6 percent to comparable-sales gains were Gucci Group, as well as the orga- Classified Advertisements ...... 23-27 5.61 billion euros, or $6.89 billion, logged in America (19.1 percent), nizational decision we have deteriorated by adverse currency Asia (11.8 percent) and France made,” Weinberg said. To e-mail reporters and editors at WWD, the address is translations and restructuring (14.2 percent). Sales in the rest of Nonetheless, some analysts [email protected], using the individual’s name. costs. Figures have been convert- Europe excluding France in- expressed disappointment with WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY IS A REGISTERED TRADEMARK OF FAIRCHILD PUBLICATIONS, INC. COPYRIGHT ©2004 ed at average exchange rates for creased 4.9 percent. Gucci’s performance. FAIRCHILD PUBLICATIONS, INC. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. PRINTED IN THE U.S.A. VOLUME 188, NO. 14. WWD (ISSN # 0149-5380) is published daily except Saturdays, Sundays and holidays, with one additional the corresponding periods. Weinberg cited “exceptional” “The numbers were below issue in January, May, June and November; two additional issues in February, April, September, October and December; and three From February though April, responses to the first post-Ford what people were expecting be- additional issues in March and August, by Fairchild Publications, Inc., a subsidiary of Advance Publications, Inc. PRINCIPAL OFFICE: 7 Gucci Group’s sales rose 4.9 per- cruise collections by Gucci’s cause De Sole parted with such West 34th Street, New York, NY 10001. Shared Services provided by Advance Magazine Publishers Inc.: S.I. Newhouse, Jr., Chairman; Steven T. Florio, Vice Chairman; Charles H. Townsend, C.O.O.; John W. Bellando, Executive Vice-President and C.F.O.; Jill Bright, cent to 595 million euros, or $731.7 women’s wear designer Ales- bullish comments,” said Elisa- Executive Vice-President_Human Resources; John Buese, Executive Vice-President_ Chief Information Officer; David Orlin, Senior million. At constant exchange sandra Facchinetti and Yves beth Jamieson, analyst at Lehman Vice-President_Strategic Sourcing; Robert Bennis, Senior Vice-President_Real Estate; David B. Chemidlin, Senior Vice- rates, sales grew by 10.5 percent. Saint Laurent’s Stefano Pilati, Continued on page 20 President_General Manager, Advance Magazine Group Shared Services Center. Periodicals postage paid at New York, NY and at additional mailing offices. Canada Post Publications Mail Agreement No. 40032712. Canadian Goods and Services Tax Registration No. 88654-9096-RM0001. Canada post return undeliverable Canadian addresses to: 4960-2 Walker Road, Windsor, ON N9A 6J3. POSTMASTER: SEND ADDRESS CHANGES TO WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY, P.O. Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA 91615-5008. FOR SUBSCRIPTIONS, ADDRESS CHANGES, ADJUSTMENTS, OR BACK ISSUE INQUIRIES: Please write to WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY, P.O. Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA 91615-5008; Call 800-289-0273; or visit www.subnow.com/wd . Four weeks is required for change of address. Please give both new and old address as printed on most recent label. First copy of new subscription will be mailed within four weeks after receipt of order. Address all editorial, business, and production Walmart.com Back in Apparel correspondence to WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY, 7 West 34th Street, New York, NY 10001. For permissions and reprint requests, please call 212-221-9595 or fax requests to 212-221-9195. Visit us online: www.wwd.com. To subscribe to other Fairchild magazines on the World Wide Web, visit www.fairchildpub.com. Occasionally, we make our subscriber list available to carefully By Katherine Bowers fered in the stores,” she said. houses and a simplified shipping screened companies that offer products and services that we believe would interest our readers. If you do not want to receive The “above and beyond” con- policy that encourages multiple these offers and/or information, please advise us at P.O. Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA 91615-5008 or call 800-289-0273. BOSTON — Walmart.com, posi- cept might translate to items purchases: Shipping for the first WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY IS NOT RESPONSIBLE FOR LOSS, DAMAGE, OR ANY OTHER INJURY TO UNSOLICITED MANUSCRIPTS, UNSOLICITED ART WORK (INCLUDING, BUT NOT LIMITED TO, DRAWINGS, PHOTOGRAPHS, AND tioning itself to grab a slice of such as cashmere sweaters. garment is $4.97; each additional TRANSPARENCIES), OR ANY OTHER UNSOLICITED MATERIALS. THOSE SUBMITTING MANUSCRIPTS, PHOTOGRAPHS, ART the $8 billion online apparel “One of our roles at wal- item is 48 cents. Wal-Mart corpo- WORK, OR OTHER MATERIALS FOR CONSIDERATION SHOULD NOT SEND ORIGINALS, UNLESS SPECIFICALLY REQUESTED market, fired up its home page mart.com is prospecting for the rate is backing the launch with a TO DO SO BY WWD IN WRITING. MANUSCRIPTS, PHOTOGRAPHS, AND OTHER MATERIALS SUBMITTED MUST BE Tuesday morning with a shot of rest of the company to see what marketing campaign that in- ACCOMPANIED BY A SELF-ADDRESSED OVERNIGHT-DELIVERY RETURN ENVELOPE, POSTAGE PREPAID. a fall George argyle sweater and could sell in the stores,” Gosselin cludes Web ads, 30-second spots placed an ad proclaiming “It’s said. “We get a read across broad on Wal-Mart’s in-store television Here! Apparel at Walmart.com” geographic areas without having network and placement in the on Yahoo’s home page. to take up space in the stores.” August monthly circular. The world’s biggest retailer Walmart.com’s move into ap- In terms of merchandise, wal- In Brief failed to profitably fulfill and ship parel means yet another arena in mart.com has already scored a apparel when it first began testing which to compete head-to-head coup. Danskin Now, a new “ath- ● ECKO BUCKLES UP: Ecko Unlimited is launching women’s the category online in the late with Target. Tuesday, while Wal- leisure” brand, launched Tues- and men’s belts and men’s small leather goods in a licensing Nineties, leading to its decision to Mart had its Yahoo ad, Target had day morning exclusively on wal- arrangement with Max Leather/Cipriani Accessories. Cipriani exit in April 2001. But Wal-Mart its cherry-red bull’s-eye planted mart.com, said Danskin chief ex- will design, manufacture and distribute the leather and fabric now sees huge potential. Its stores on MSN.com’s home page. ecutive officer Carol Hochman. collection. Men’s belts will start rolling out to department and serve 138 million customers a Mass market jeans label Levi The brand will be available in all specialty stores next month, followed by women’s belts in time week, and the company estimates Strauss Signature is one brand Wal-Mart stores at the end of for holiday selling. Belts will wholesale between $10 and $17. two-thirds of them are online with that may be caught in the cross- August. The New York-based Men’s small leather goods are scheduled to launch in fall 2005. a broadband connection. fire. Target.com sells only men’s dancewear company already has The licensee also makes accessories for Michael Kors, Calvin “Apparel has been a top Signature, while walmart.com of- two flourishing lines at Target: Klein, Nautica, Guess, Nine West, Sean John and Anne Klein. search ever since we exited the fers just the brand’s women’s, Freestyle and ProSpirit. category,” said Jennifer Gosselin, junior and girl’s products. A Levi Walmart.com used brand- ● BEARISH DOWNGRADES: Citing a lack of catalysts for the pur- senior director of merchandising Strauss spokeswoman said the search data to select 16 national chases of retail stocks during the “historically weak” third quar- for walmart.com, based in Bris- situation wasn’t prearranged but and private label lines to re- ter, Bear Stearns broadlines analyst Christine Augustine down- bane, Calif. “As well, online ap- was “the way the buys worked launch apparel. George, White graded shares of Federated Department Stores Inc. and May parel sales have been growing out at this particular time.” Stag and Faded Glory are online Department Stores Co. to “peer perform” from “outperform.” On quite rapidly, outpacing e-com- Levistrauss.com, the San along with Levi Strauss Signa- Bear’s quarterly “Retail Report” card, Augustine said Federated merce growth in general.” Francisco denim company’s in- ture, VF Corp.’s Wrangler and is still considered “the best department store operator in our Gosselin called the current formational Web site, links con- Riders, and the Mary-Kate and group,” but that “all the good news is in the stock,” including ex- assortment of several hundred sumers to both discounters’ Web Ashley brand. pectations of earnings improvement in the back half of the year. styles — spanning the retailer’s sites for purchases. “The timing could be very With regard to May, she wrote, “We expect same-store sales to lag top women’s, men’s, girl’s and “Signature has brought a new good for Wal-Mart,” said Gary those of its major competitors, and the proposed integration of boy’s brands — “phase one” and consumer into [Wal-Mart] stores, Drenik, partner with Columbus, Marshall Field’s adds risk to the story.” Federated, she noted, said it will grow throughout fall. and we’re hoping that will trans- Ohio-based BigResearch.com. will continue “eyeing the landscape for potential acquisitions.” Maternity will be added within late online,” the spokeswoman The company’s July survey of On the New York Stock Exchange, Federated shares closed down two weeks. said of the company’s place- 9,000-plus shoppers revealed 54 cents, or 1.2 percent, at $44.21, while May’s were off 44 cents, “By holiday, we will have an ment on walmart.com. that Wal-Mart shoppers had or 1.7 percent, at $24.81. Their respective 52-week highs are ‘above and beyond’ assortment, Walmart.com has a buying slightly higher consumer confi- $55.06 and $36.48. The Standard & Poor’s Retail Index receded which will include items not of- team, its own e-commerce ware- dence levels and that they 1.1 percent, ending Monday’s trading session at 375.79. planned to spend online more aggressively in the next 90 days ● BUYBACK BUMPED UP: Federated Department Stores Inc. in- than the general shopping popu- creased its share buyback program by $750 million, hiking its ©Alan Friedman lace. About 66 percent of Wal- total repurchase authorization to $1.29 billion. The parent of Don't Miss the Gem & Jewelry Mart shoppers who planned to Macy’s and Bloomingdale’s, among others, said Tuesday it ex- spend more online estimated pects to repurchase between $700 million and $900 million Industry’s Largest Job Fair they would spend $100 to $400 on worth of stock in 2004. Federated has bought back 5.7 million back-to-school clothing and ac- shares so far this year, using approximately $280 million. In a re- Friday, July 23, 2004 cessories, said Drenik. lated development, the company began a tender offer Tuesday to Mandy Putnam, vice president buy back its $350 million in 8.5 percent senior notes due 2010. Jacob K. Javits Convention Center of Columbus-based research firm The offer expires July 27, unless terminated early or extended, New York, NY Retail Forward, called wal- Federated said. “Given the strong cash-flow generation of our mart.com’s entry into apparel “a business, it is important to recognize that these actions do not large splash in a small pond” be- limit Federated’s ability to pursue strategic investments,” said TO REGISTER or for more info, visit cause, he said, e-tail sales repre- chief executive officer Terry Lundgren in a statement. www.gia.edu or call 800-421-7250 x4100 sent only a fraction of overall apparel purchases. TUESDAY WEDNESDAY THURSDAY ednesday Thursday august 3,4,5, 2004 The Show Piers 12th Avenue at 55th Street, NYC uesday W

accessoriecircuit T Photo & Business ID for Admission 9am–6pm Daily, 9am–5pm Last Day intermezzocollections An Exclusive Women’s Accessorie & Ready-to-Wear Trade Exhibition. Produced by ENK International Phone: 212.759.8055 Fax: 212.758.3403 Email: [email protected] 4 WWD, WEDNESDAY, JULY 21, 2004 WWW.WWD.COM A Moveable Feast at Buckingham Palace ● Princess Di’s Crown Jewel ● Sorvino’s Bambino

Evelyn Lauder

on top of it? (This Neptune is just one of four.) Needless to say, everyone’s eyes roamed the room, the walls of which were adorned with Van Dykes, Vermeers, etc. At the end of the meal, every fan was taken from its place and fluttered in ladies’ hands, and a few were even clutched in gentlemen’s hands. Is it too much to say that the group left the palace in a sort of magical royal daze? And this is who was there: Peggy Noonan; Betsy Camilla Bloomingdale; Anne Hearst with George Farias; Evelyn and Leonard Suzy Parker Bowles Lauder; Barbie and Joe Allbritton; By Aileen Mehle Joanne and Roberto de Guardiola; Nada and Nemir Kirdar; Dina and Have you ever been to Buckingham in particular praised the Brad Martin, the head of Saks Inc.; Palace? Not just for a tour of the awe- philanthropist Mrs. Walter (Lee) Astrid and Kip Forbes; Elena and inspiring premises — an extraordinary Annenberg, as, indeed, Joshua Bell Robert Allbritton; Mary and Mandel eye® experience in itself — but for dinner? A has been a recipient of her support Ourisman; Pauline Pitt; Carol Price, gala dinner given by the Prince of Wales? since the tender age of 13. (Lee, the former American ambassadress If you have, you know what a gorgeous pleasure it is. If whose late husband was our to Britain; the newly engaged you haven’t, come along with me and we’ll pay a ambassador to Britain, had just that Hilary Geary and Wilbur Ross; Lily glamorous little visit to His Royal Highness, Prince afternoon been awarded the Order Safra and her granddaughter, Lily Marylou Charles, and his beloved companion, Camilla Parker of the British Empire and was Whitney Elia; Patricia Hearst-Shaw and Bowles, who, you should know, has never looked better, proudly wearing the gold medal on a Bernard Shaw; Blaine and Robert and I’ve been looking at the lady for more than 15 years. scarlet ribbon pinned to her pale Tr ump; Deborah Norville and Carl You will be part of an exclusive group of 100 mostly green silk shoulder.) After the music, the guests were Wellner; Lynn Wyatt, and Marylou Whitney and John American supporters of the Prince of Wales Foundation, ushered into the picture gallery, a stunning scene of one Hendrickson. As the world probably knows by now, the purpose of which is to contribute to both American long table in one of the most glorious rooms imaginable. John Hendrickson proposed to Marylou Whitney in a and British charities favored by HRH and organized by The table, which reached from one end of the room to cozy corner of Buckingham Palace. the foundation’s Washington office. the other, was centered with 30 golden candelabra and ● Upon arrival at the palace on this beautiful summer’s 30 pieces of silver gilt from the reign of George III. The Princess Diana’s sensational necklace, called “Swan eve, one makes one’s way up the magnificent red-and- tablecloth, a pale green silk, was almost the color of Lee Lake,” boasting 214 diamonds and seven Salt Sea crimson velvet and gold grand staircase, the scene of so Annenberg’s dress. Did she know ahead? Pearls, designed by Garrard, the English crown many state visits and historical events through the The chairs at each splendid place setting were carved jewelers, will be unveiled at Hollis, Reh & Shariff, the centuries. Then, it’s on through the dazzling, soaring of ewe wood, and at every guest’s table setting was a estate jewelers on Job’s Lane in Southampton, at a Green Drawing Room and the Red Throne Room, hand-painted fan with rich summer colors depicting a kickoff party for The Animal Rescue Fund of the equally soaring and dazzling, where the red and gold view of the Picture Gallery painted by Alec Cobb. It is Hamptons on Aug. 6. The benefit itself will be held on velvet thrones of Her Majesty the Queen and HRH simply beautiful and simply marvelous for framing. Aug. 21 at The End, Avon heiress Sandra McConnell’s Prince Philip sit in grandeur. The destinations are the Hanging on a satin ribboned tassel was a medallion waterfront house. Blue Drawing Room, the Music Room for champagne enscribed with the menu about to be served: confit of The necklace, which Diana wore to the ballet at her and the State Dining Room for a splendid concert by the salmon with creamed cauliflower and a parmesan wafer; last official public appearance, was bought for her by London Philharmonic, starring the wonderful American roast filet of beef with a béarnaise sauce and chêvre Dodi Fayed and is the only piece of jewelry she owned violinist Joshua Bell. It was a first concert for the room cheesecake with balsamic strawberries. that is ever expected to be available for sale. The asking (the group was intimate) and an opportunity to use one The centerpiece of the table was a candelabra price is $1.8 million, and $100,000 of that will be given of the smaller but still grand rooms, with its portraits of displaying 14 candles, a 6-foot-high piece depicting St. to The Animal Rescue Fund. Jamie Niven will conduct former kings on one side and views of the largest George slaying the dragon. Five- and 6-foot-tall columns the auction. private garden in London on the other. of carefully arranged English garden roses filled the ● The orchestra struck up gems from Rossini, room with their perfume, and for once, the ladies’ Mira Sorvino, 36, who married her 22-year-old beau, Tc haikovsky, Ravel and Puccini, but the highlight of the jewelry may have been overshadowed by the tables’ Christopher Backus, in Santa Barbara in June and recital was Joshua Bell. Many of the guests had seen centerpieces. One guest inquired, “What would that remarried him in Capri this month for good measure, him in concert halls, but none had witnessed the piece be used for?” and was informed, “Madam, it’s an says she can’t wait to become a mother. Of course, the performance for such a small group by a real American ice bucket.” But, of course, how many would know, as whispers are that she’s visiting the obstetrician as you jewel in a British setting. how many people in the world have an ice bucket that is read this — well, maybe not as you read this — to see if The Prince spoke with warmth to all the guests and 18 inches high and 14 inches wide, with Neptune sitting she’s already pregnant. ARKER BOWLES BY GLOBE PHOTOS; WHITNEY BY GETTY IMAGES PHOTOS; WHITNEY BY GLOBE ARKER BOWLES BY P WWD, WEDNESDAY, JULY 21, 2004 5 WWW.WWD.COM Williams Leaves as Polo Group President P. Diddy in ‘Vote or Die’ Campaign NEW YORK — Doug Williams has “During his tenure, the company resigned as group president of Polo experienced significant global By Scott Malone Ralph Lauren Corp., effective on growth in wholesale and licensing.” Sean “P. Diddy” Friday, after the disclosure that Williams’ direct reports included NEW YORK — In a presidential election Combs modeled Roger Farah, president and chief Joy Herfel, president of Polo Ralph year, Sean “P. Diddy” Combs is trying to use one of Citizen operating officer of the company, Lauren men’s wear; Kim Roy, the marketing sizzle of his fashion and Change’s T-shirts, plans to stay until 2010. president of Lauren women’s wear; music in politics — no, he isn’t running for with the Williams, 39, is a 16-year Cheryl Sterling, president of Ralph anything, at least not yet. assistance of veteran of the company, having risen Lauren women’s wear collection Combs says he wants to make voting James Carville. from an analyst in men’s wear to brands; Andreas Kurz, president of “cool,’’ and admitted that he hasn’t cast a bal- become group president in 1999. international licensing, and Don lot since 2000. His ambition to eventually run a Baum, senior vice president of The designer, entertainer and hip-hop company, however, appeared to be sourcing and manufacturing — all impresario during a news conference in blocked after a recent Polo proxy of whom will now report to Farah. Manhattan on Tuesday outlined plans for a filing revealed that Farah had “There are no immediate plans voter-education drive through a nonparti- renewed his employment contract to to replace this position,” a Polo san group called Citizen Change that is tar- remain at the company for another spokeswoman said. “But we have geting people 18 to 34 years old with a six years, influencing Williams’ a fluid organization that adjusts blunt message: “Vote or Die.” decision not to renew his own for talent.” Combs said the “Vote or Die” slogan was contract, a friend said. Williams could not be reached chosen because the occupant of the Oval of- In a statement, Farah said, for comment on Tuesday.

fice makes life-and-death decisions that af- JOHN AQUINO PHOTO BY fect millions of Americans. “The same way we make a Biggie album, a Sean John shirt or a ‘Spider-Man’ movie, or a ‘Matrix’ movie hot, we’re going to overwhelm you and excite you with the urgency of our message,” Combs said. “We have the power to make things cool, hot and sexy, from the clothes we wear to the cars we drive to the bling we buy.” The organization plans a campaign to inform young voters about the race between President Bush and his presumed Demo- ALUE cratic challenger, Sen. John Kerry IONAL V of Massachusetts. In addition to XCEPT HION, E sending out “street teams” to US FAS speak with voters in their neigh- FABULO borhoods, the campaign plans public service announcements and programming on cable net- works including MTV and BET, as well as on radio. Combs, accompanied by political consultant James Car- ville, who helped elect Bill Clinton president, and other ad- visers with ties to the Demo- Experience the Full Benefits of FAME cratic party, said he has contributed an unspecified amount of start-up money for the effort. AT THE JAVITS CENTER,MANHATTAN He said the campaign would be nonpartisan and that he had re- ULY UGUST ceived support from Repub- J 31 - A 3, 2004 lican National Committee chairman Ed Gillespie. An RNC SATURDAY 10-4 spokeswoman confirmed that the meeting had occurred and that the RNC was looking into SUNDAY & MONDAY 9-6 ways it might get involved. Addressing his own voting record, Combs said: “I was just TUESDAY 9-4 as disenfranchised as the other disenfranchised voters…I’m not talking from the outside. I understand how young people feel. They feel the system does- • Nearly 700 lines of Immediate Fall, Holiday & Resort Women’s Apparel & n’t work.” While politics may be a new Accessories interest for Combs, this isn’t his first effort at community in- • A clean and easy-to-shop presentation of fabulous fashion at exceptional value volvement. He turned the 2003 New York City Marathon into a • A well-merchandized floor of resources that make sense for your stores personal fund-raising drive, amassing almost $2 million in • Jewelry-To-Go, the "carry-out" section craved by the market contributions. Combs said his group had al- lied itself with other youth-oriented voter organizations, including Rock the Vote and The Hip-Hop Summit Action Net- work, which is backed by Rus- sell Simmons, a fellow music Arrange for FAME today! producer and the founder of the Phat Farm brand. Design- ers from Phat Farm, as well as Marc Ecko, Tommy Hilfiger and Exhibiting Info Registration Info Rocawear, contributed ideas for the group’s logo T-shirt, 978-256-4604 800-646-0084 Combs said. Combs called on others in 877-904-FAME (3263) www.fameshows.com the fashion world to back him and said, “Any other designers that want to get on board, come on and get down. Y’all know how to holler at me.” 6 WWD, WEDNESDAY, JULY 21, 2004

Catherine Malandrino’s beaded cotton, rayon, nylon, angora and cashmere sweater and cotton pintuck pants.

the bead game NEW YORK — The key to this season is plenty of embellishment that’s fun and whimsical, but not overstated. Colorful beads, stones and studs are popping up on everything from cotton dresses to silk tunics to cashmere knits.

Beaded cashmere top from Cynthia Cynthia Steffe. WWD, WEDNESDAY, JULY 21, 2004 7 WWW.WWD.COM

From left: Chaiken’s Tibi’s studded beaded silk tunic cotton dress. over a nylon and Stubbs and spandex bikini from Wootton shoes. BCBG Max Azria Swim and a beaded silk and polyester tunic from A.B.S. by Allen Schwartz. KEUP BY ROANNA/WARREN TRICOMI; FASHION ASSISTANT: LEIGH THORNTON; STYLED BY ANTONIA SARDONE LEIGH THORNTON; STYLED BY ASSISTANT: TRICOMI; FASHION ROANNA/WARREN KEUP BY

Beaded rayon knit top from Joseph A. PHOTOS BY THOMAS IANNACCONE; MODELS: YULIA AND LIA BISHOP, BOTH FOR ELITE; HAIR BY LAURA NAKAMOTO/ARTISTS BY TIMOTHY PRIANO; MA BY NAKAMOTO/ARTISTS LAURA BOTH FOR ELITE; HAIR BY THOMAS IANNACCONE; MODELS: YULIA AND LIA BISHOP, PHOTOS BY 8 WWD, WEDNESDAY, JULY 21, 2004 WWW.WWD.COM In the Mainstream Easy-Care Apparel Picks Up Steam By Evan Clark NEW YORK — Among the few statistics in our numbers-crazed society that probably aren’t kept with any accuracy are the percentage of rumpled Americans or how often people spill things on their clothing. Sales of easy-care apparel, though, indi- cate there are still plenty of clumsy, iron- resistant consumers out there. Wrinkle-resistant styles made up 9.4 percent of the 1.9 million units of women’s sportswear sold during the 12 months ended in May. A year earlier, they had a 7.8 percent share of the market, according to STS Market Research, which derives its results based on tracking the purchases of more than 12,000 men and women. A survey last year by Cotton Incor- porated’s Lifestyle Monitor showed that 55 percent of women bought wrinkle-resistant apparel in the previous year, and 30 percent of the group polled purchased water-repellent clothing. Apparel with treatments JOHN AQUINO CECCHI PHOTO BY that are intended to save consumers from them- Left: Wrinkle-resistant cotton polyester spandex top, and washable cotton spandex pants from Josephine selves can save time and money in the form of Chaus. Above, water-repellent fabric from Cecchi, which uses Nano-Tex technology. hours at the ironing board and dry cleaning bills. However, adding that element to garments prices may be prohibitive. boosts production expenses. Manufacturers “The more advanced stuff that we’re Machine washable and easy often assume some of the costs and pass the rest doing is definitely a lot more expen- “ on to the consumer. For some, the price is worth sive,” Winans said. care is a really key issue for our it, as the treatments help drive full-price selling For example, Liz has cotton knitwear in an era of rampant price promotions. that has color-retention, antipilling, smooth- consumer. Liz Claiborne Inc. was among the first compa- ness and shrinkage-control treatments. —” Judith Leech, Bernard Chaus Inc. nies on the bandwagon. About eight years ago, the “We haven’t put it on some of the gar- firm added what it described as “carefree” looks ments because it would be prohibitive Bernard Chaus Inc., said, “Machine washable and easy to its namesake line. The carefree portion of the for us in terms of being able to achieve care is a really key issue for our consumer.” Liz Claiborne brand includes machine-washable our margin goals,” he said. “We kind of Chaus markets shirts that don’t require pressing, as fabrics, such as wrinkle-resistant linens, cottons pick our spots.” well as outerwear that has waterproofing. and microfibers, and washable wools. Carefree has expanded and received “If she can make her life simple, it really is a big The road for easy-care looks has become praise from retailers, but it has not been appeal,” Leech said. “It’s a key issue to the consumer. smoother for the company as retailers and con- a silver bullet for the Liz brand. Last People do not want to press their shirts.” sumers become more familiar with the product. year, the label’s many product categories The easy-care treatment adds about 50 cents a yard to “We’re not having to convince the retailers as produced sales of about $1.4 billion, a the price of the fabrics, she said. much as we had to two, three years ago,” said 12.2 percent decrease. “We kind of eat that expense to make the clothes more Fritz Winans, group president of Liz Claiborne Improvements are being sought, even appealing to the consumer,” Leech said. brands. “It’s not limited just to basics anymore. though there have been advancements The STS research shows that casual pants were one of the Today, we have it in all segments of the line.” in many of the underlying technologies biggest winners in the wrinkle-resistant race, where wrinkle- Slightly less than 20 percent of the Liz line is that produce these attributes. resistant styles saw their share of the market rise to 15.3 per- in the carefree program and “there are possibilities for “Durability has typically been the number one issue over cent from 10.8 percent a year earlier. Likewise, 10.1 percent us to take it to higher levels,” Winans said. the years with a lot of finishing technology,” said William of woven sport shirts sold over the 12-month period were There are financial incentives to expand the carefree Rearick, director of textile chemistry research at Cotton Inc. wrinkle resistant, compared with 5.6 percent a year earlier. program, as well. Properties such as stain resistance — often achieved Jones New York Signature, which launched in spring, “It’s able to maintain a higher average unit retail price,” through the use of fluorchemicals, which reduce the surface has ventured into easy care with a noniron cotton pin- he said. “It’s truly performing well at regular price.” tension and prevent liquid from immediately sinking into the point oxford shirt, said Kathee O’Brien, executive vice For spring, the Liz line will include dual-action prod- fabric — have washed out of apparel too quickly in the past. president of design for the Jones New York casual divi- ucts that have stain resistance and stain release. “That’s “Those kind of chemicals are well-known,” he said. sions of Jones Apparel Group. the next chapter in carefree,” Winans said. “They’ve been around for many, many years, but they’ve The noniron treatment is added in a baking process Stain release helps get ground-in spills and dirt to been perfected now to a much greater extent.” and allows for the finished product to be machine come out in the wash. The technology has advanced to where it can with- washed and dried in a dryer. The industry, though, isn’t barreling toward all easy-care stand 20 to 50 washings, he said. “The fabric still feels like beautiful pinpoint cotton,” products. Not all fabrics take the treatments well and Judith Leech, executive vice president of design at O’Brien said. The shirt, which she described as “a nice basic shirt,” has per- formed well at retail and has SHARE OF WRINKLE-RESISTANT STYLES IN WOMEN’S WEAR been expanded into more colors and patterns. O’Brien said while Jeans Casual Pants Dress Pants Casual Shorts Knit Shirts Dress Shirts Woven Sport Shirts Skirts Dresses these are modest steps, the firm was looking into ways to further promote the easy-care attributes Total Units Sold During the 12 Months Ending May 2003, in Millions 205.8 160.9 97.0 114.4 407.7 162.1 70.9 85.8 109.1 and the market demand for such Wrinkle-Resistant Share of Those Units 6.3% 10.8% 19.0% 10.6% 4.2% 8.9% 5.6% 9.5% 11.1% products would grow. “People just don’t have time,” Total Units Sold During the 12 Months Ending May 2004, in Millions 218.0 188.3 105.7 114.8 461.5 179.8 73.0 88.1 99.8 she said. “They don’t want to spend the money on taking it to a dry Wrinkle-Resistant Share of Those Units 5.3% 15.3% 20.5% 11.2% 5.0% 12.0% 10.1% 11.6% 14.1% cleaners and have it laundered. SOURCE: STS MARKET RESEARCH Also, it travels well.”

we think that Tuesday Morning has not only got resolve this matter,” said Claiborne senior vice culpability, but may also have intentional president and general counsel Roberta Karp. Claiborne Settles With Some in Monet Suit culpability,” Lewin said. In May, Claiborne said the suit was NEW YORK — Liz Claiborne Inc. reached settle, Claiborne said in a statement Tuesday. The In addition to Tuesday Morning, the suit, prompted by a tip that firms named in the suit settlements last week with all but one of the suit against Tuesday Morning is pending. Laurey brought in Dallas Federal Court, included were working with printers to make false labels defendants named in its April lawsuit over the Peat, of Laurey Peat & Associates, a public Chicago-based reseller Division Sales and and were selling counterfeit Monet jewelry. alleged manufacture, distribution and sale of relations firm speaking for Tuesday Morning, said parties involved in related activities, such as The Cook County Sheriff’s Police fake Monet-branded jewelry over a period of of the case, “We’re continuing to pursue it printing labels for the merchandise. Terms of Department Special Operations Unit in April almost two years. through the legal process.” When the suit was the settlement include the recognition of seized more than 100,000 pieces of jewelry, Settling the suit were Division Sales Inc., filed, Tuesday Morning denied the charges. Claiborne’s rights relating to Monet, consent to some bearing the Monet name, at a CPR Consumer Product Recovery, Form Systems Harley Lewin, outside council to Claiborne, a permanent injunction and an unspecified facility in Des Plains, Ill. Additional search and several individuals who were management said the suit against Tuesday Morning was now cash payment to the firm. warrants were then executed on Pamco Printed or shareholders of those firms. in the discovery phase. “The defendants who are settling, while Tape & Label Co. and Form Systems Inc., Dallas-based discount retailer Tuesday “We’re subpoenaing certain employees at denying liability, agreed to much of what we were which recovered sales files, product samples Morning Corp. was the only party that did not all of these entities that were involved because asking for in court and have moved rapidly to and other documents. WWD, WEDNESDAY, JULY 21, 2004 9 WWW.WWD.COM

Madison Avenue and 897 Madison Avenue. While the col- Claiborne to Retake Ellen Tracy License lection is currently available in 10 Saks Fifth Avenue doors, five NEW YORK — In a deal expect- $168. It will also be available by ated the watery scent, which fea- Saks doors will be added at ed to be announced today, Liz the ounce for $40, or in a 2-oz. tures top notes of cucumber and launch time. Bond No. 9 is also Claiborne Inc., owner of the spray version for $25, as well as in sea kale; middle notes of ozone, negotiating the opening of a Ellen Tracy apparel line, will an array of colored bottles for $40. marine aroma, and lavender, and fourth location in the West end its existing Ellen Tracy Vintage and art bottles will also be bottom notes of sheer musk. The Village and is in talks to expand beauty licensing agreement with offered, priced from $60 to $200. 3.4-oz. star bottle is rendered in internationally with Harvey Cosmopolitan Cosmetics. The September launch was cho- black lacquer with an apropos Nichols, as well as into outlets According to Art Spiro, presi- sen because it co- scattering of Offerings from Bond No. 9. in the Middle East, Germany dent of Liz Claiborne Cosmetics, incides with Little gold tokens. It JOHN AQUINO PHOTO BY and Italy. the two companies have agreed Italy’s celebration BEAUTY BEAT will retail for Little Italy ads will break in Rahme noted the brand is de- to transition the beauty license of the Feast of $190. In addi- September issues of Vogue and veloping a West Side Stories fra- back to Claiborne over the next San Gennaro. A 6-oz. candle will tion, a 1.5-oz. size will be avail- Harper’s Bazaar and will ap- grance for Valentine’s Day, six months, with the deal ex- also be available in October. able for $110. As is the case with pear in the October issue of W. housed in a bottle decorated by pected to be completely closed Bond No. 9’s other offering, Little Italy, spray versions and Wall Street ads will be featured an F.I.T. student. by yearend. Wall Street, is less explicit in its art bottles will be offered with in W and Vogue. About $1 mil- Rahme plans to continue to Spiro noted that the parting origin. Rahme noted Wall Street Wall Street in November. lion is expected to be spent on slowly build the brand. “When was an amicable one, and said was not meant to be an allusion to Industry sources estimate the advertising. you have New York City as a bringing the Ellen Tracy appar- money, but rather an olfactive ren- two fragrances could generate Bond No. 9 is available at the muse,” she remarked, “you can- el and fragrance businesses to- dering of the New York harbor air. $1 million at retail in their first company’s headquarters at 90 not afford to make any mistakes.” gether would allow both entities Dave Apel from Givaudan cre- year on the market. Bond Street, as well as at 680 —Stephanie Leigh LaCava to explore synergies and position themselves for growth. “The core Ellen Tracy business is strong and we’re looking forward to explore its many opportunities,” said Spiro. Cosmopolitan Cosmetics was granted the Ellen Tracy beauty license in August 1998 by its former majority stockholders, Herb Gallen and Linda Allard. The duo, along with the company’s other stockholders, sold the Ellen Tracy apparel business to Liz Claiborne Inc. in September 2002 in a deal estimated to have topped $180 million. Spiro emphasized that the transition would not interrupt existing business for the beauty brand’s portfolio, which includes the Ellen Tracy and Ellen Tracy Imagine women’s scents. He said the first order of business would be to examine all aspects of the Ellen Tracy beauty business, including the existing product portfolio, its distribution and its inventory levels. “The Ellen Tracy apparel offices are in our building, which will give us easy access for brainstorming sessions,” said Spiro. “And having both the apparel and beauty licenses under the umbrella of the same company will allow us to explore cross-merchandising and other growth opportunities.” Spiro said he would like to create another Ellen Tracy women’s scent — possibly for high-end specialty store distribution. He said, however, that a new scent would not be brought to market before spring 2006. August 1-3, 2004 —Julie Naughton Bond No. 9, a Bit of N.Y. Javits Center, Manhattan NEW YORK — Laurice Rahme, founder of Bond No. 9, is still in Shop over 200 lines of a New York state of mind. The company will introduce Juried Ready-To-Wear two unisex fragrances under its Bond No. 9 collection, which cur- Sunday-Monday 9am-6pm, rently consists of 19 Big Apple-in- spired scents. Little Italy is slated Tuesday 9am-5pm to debut in September and Wall Street will follow in November. 800.358.6678 www.modamanhattan.com “We wanted to celebrate the reconstruction of downtown,” exhibiting 212.686.4412 x438 or x435 said Rahme of why she chose Little Italy and Wall Street. The gastronomic delights of Little Italy were the inspiration behind its namesake scent. Roberté Francis-Camaille of Robertet blended Little Italy, a combination of clementine, grape- fruit, and mandarin top notes with a heart of tangerine and jasmine, and base notes including sheer musk. It is available in an orange Also shop ACCESSORIESTHESHOW, The marketplace for hot, new directions in edited accessories running concurrently at the Javits Center rendition of Bond No. 9’s signature star-shaped bottle, adorned Moda Manhattan and AccessoriesTheShow are properties of Business Journals, Inc. with a gold subway token insignia. A 3.4-oz. container will retail for 10 WWD, WEDNESDAY, JULY 21, 2004 WWW.WWD.COM Badgley Mischka: The Price of Prestige By Eric Wilson and Nina Ricci, as well as institutional funds and private equity companies. NEW YORK — As an acquisition target, Badgley Mischka may be a jewel in “Several people have come to us, and there are some the rough, but it is a jewel with some rough edges. we are still talking to that could lead to a deal,” Mischka The designers Mark Badgley and James Mischka acknowledged in an in- said. “We only need one.” terview on Tuesday that their business was never profitable and was unlikely Badgley Mischka has become synonymous with bead- to become so under its existing structure without a lucrative stable of licensed evening gowns with a vaguely vintage feel, landing es. And its history of financial loss- on the fashion map in 1996 when Winona Ryder wore es has been a primary factor in such a dress encrusted in crystal and pearl beads to the scaring away potential investors, Academy Awards at a time when the red carpet was according to people who have been ruled by Giorgio Armani. Just four years before, the de- briefed on the company’s books. signers had been trying to cope with indebtedness to Badgley Mischka’s decision to fabric suppliers and mispronunciation when Ron cancel its spring collection and Frasch, then the general merchandise manager of cut 60 percent of its workforce on Neiman Marcus, made the introduction to Escada’s for- Monday happened because of the mer president and chief executive, Peter Laniak. slower-than-expected pursuit of DeParis, who worked in Escada’s financial opera- the 16-year-old eveningwear tions, recalled that the company paid about $200,000 label, the designers said. with the assumption of debt for Badgley Mischka. While he would not disclose The brand has since grown to annual retail volume the asking price, Mischka said of $40 million, but that is still considered smaller than they had turned away some early the most desirable acquisition targets in the luxury sec- bidders because their offers were tor. Conglomerates such as LVMH Moët Hennessy Louis too low. Yet, any buyer would face Vuitton and Gucci Group continue to wrestle with the the same challenge the designers fallout of expensive acquisitions of the Nineties, sug- did when they started the line in gesting a less traditional business model would be ap- 1988, and that which Escada AG propriate for the company. has struggled with since buying Analysts have mentioned some independent the company in 1992 — figuring American brands that have built a strong sportswear out how to turn the prestige of the business under the umbrella of a high-end evening col- runway into a viable business. lection, such as Oscar de la Renta, Bill Blass or St. John, “The real decision is how as more logical partners. much is needed to invest in the It might even be easier to strike a deal with the an- company and how long it will take nouncement that Badgley Mischka has cancelled its spring to get them to that platform collection. Mischka confirmed that 60 percent of the com- where they are profitable and pany’s estimated 40 remaining employees were let go on successful,” said Lawrence C. Monday, and that the designers have not decided what to DeParis, president and chief op- do with the 11th-floor showroom space at 525 Seventh erating officer of Escada (USA) Mark Badgley and James Mischka Avenue in Manhattan. Potential suitors could attempt to ac- quire only the trademarks and pursue a strictly licensed operation, or meld the collection into their own operations. The real decision is how much is “I can’t believe they’re not going to find a partner “ who respects their creative skills and their integrity,” needed to invest in the company and how said Frasch, now of Saks Fifth Avenue in an as-yet-unti- tled position, which along with Neiman Marcus are the long it will take to get them to that platform designers’ largest retail clients. “Mark and James are immensely talented and also happen to be two of the where they are profitable and successful. finest human beings in our industry.” — Lawrence C. DeParis, Escada” Inc. Robert Burke, vice president and senior fashion director of Bergdorf Goodman, said the store has had a Inc., which said last October it would divest its noncore brands as part of Winona Ryder in consistently good business with Badgley Mischka. a global restructuring by the parent Escada AG. “They’re an important design force with a special Badgley Mischka DeParis said he was surprised that an appropriate offer had not yet ma- point of view that has continued to evolve,” he said. “The at the Academy terialized and that the decision was made to cancel the spring collection as at the Academy reality is that they’re facing a difficult business moment a last resort. Awards in 1996. and we’ll miss not having the collection for a season, but “We were staring at the end of the barrel on the calendar,” he said. we have confidence they’ll come back.” “Escada has been open to a deal structured in any reasonable way in order for them to The designers’ said their biggest regret was not to have pursued an aggressive li- move forward.” censing campaign earlier in their careers. Before Escada ordered the divestiture of DeParis would not specify whether Escada had set an opening threshold for its 80 the brand, they had deals in the works for lingerie, eyewear, bridal and fragrance li- percent stake in the brand or the identity of those interested parties. censes, but have put those plans on hold pending the change in ownership. Among the companies that are said to have explored a deal are Birger Christensen, the “We’ve spent 16 years building Badgley Mischka as a brand,” Mischka said. “It’s got furrier that signed a license with Badgley Mischka last year through its BC International incredible potential for expanding beyond a niche couture eveningwear business. It division; an Italian accessories firm that has worked with the designers on handbags and has an image. It stands for glamour, luxury and fantasy, and those are dreams that are shoes; the Puig Beauty & Fashion Group, which owns Carolina Herrera, Paco Rabanne easy to sell to people.”

no name. You can keep the bag as long as you want, or trade it Esteban Cortezar, Ja Rule, Jennifer Jason Leigh and Shannen in for another as soon as it bores you, for that “I have 1,000 Doherty, among others. Fashion Scoops more just like this in my closet” look. If Angus Strathie, the costume designer the relationship lasts, behind “Moulin Rouge,” whipped up BURBERRY’S BUSY FALL: Burberry, fresh off chief executive Rose Bagborroworsteal.com will quote you a Berry’s catsuit. Versions by other Marie Bravo’s decision to extend her contract until 2006, is price. The service, which is two months designers, including Kors, design team prepping for an action-packed autumn with a range of events old, says it has 500 customers and an Ducati, Elie Saab, Cortezar, Jonathan across the world. The action kicks off on Oct. 16 when the inventory of 2,000 bags, although its Web Saunders and Vivienne Westwood also will company, which is sponsoring Mario Testino’s traveling Portraits site displays 562 choices. At least one of be showcased in the flagship’s windows. exhibition at the Tokyo Metropolitan Museum of Photography, those, a Gucci canvas logo bag with a will host an opening party. On Oct. 20, Bravo will zip to the chain handle and leather trim, appears to FERRAGAMO’S VOICE: Days days after West Coast to receive a special legends award from the be from the current crop. The company Fulvio Zendrini resigned as head of Costume Council of Los Angeles for her contribution to the does not yet buy directly from communications at Ferragamo, the fashion industry. The next night, Burberry will host an opening manufacturers, but all its bags are Florentine luxury goods house has tapped party at its refurbished, 12,500-square-foot San Francisco unit authentic, said co-founders Lloyd Lapidus Clarice Pecori to replace him. on Post Street. In November, the British luxury label will open and Greg Pippo. The average bag stays out Pecori, who led the press office at Prada its first Rome store — 7,992 square feet — at 61 via Condotti, for at least a month, and so far, the bags for four years, leaving in 2002, recently the city’s main fashion avenue. have come back in good condition, said consulted for Piazza Sempione and was Lapidus. The site charges a fee for engaged with art-related events. Pecori will REEL PICTURE: Fifteen minutes of fame wasn’t enough for damage, which varies depending on the take up her new post on Sept. 1. Kwame Jackson of “The Apprentice.” He is expected to be bag, but won’t exceed $150. A spokeswoman for Ferragamo did not trawling the Designers’ Collective trade show this week for ideas return phone calls. for the men’s apparel line he aims to launch this fall. GETTING CATTY: The body-hugging catsuit Halle Berry squeezed into for “Catwoman” SUPER SEQUEL: Cindy Crawford is back in BAG IT: Lots of “It” girls get their “It” bags for free. For the will be on display in Henri Bendel’s Fifth the game. Jan Planit, the former IMG and nonboldface names, there’s a new source — Avenue windows, in time for Wednesday Next executive, has just signed Crawford

Halle Berry as Catwoman. BROS. PICTURES OF WARNER COURTESY Bagborroworsteal.com. A $99 monthly fee lets you borrow the night’s post-premiere party at the store. as a client at PLANIT M, the agency Planit Kate Spade, Gucci or Prada bag of your choice. For $20, Berry and co-star Benjamin Bratt are expected at the bash, along started in March. Crawford, who hasn’t been with an agency in customers can have Coach, Ralph Lauren or a trendy bag with with Damon Dash, Michael Kors, Nicole Miller, Vera Wang, years, is looking to work with fresh designers and photographers. BADGLEY AND MISCHKA BY WIREIMAGE; RYDER BY DARLENE HAMMOND/GETTY IMAGES WIREIMAGE; RYDER BY BADGLEY AND MISCHKA BY PHOTO BY DANIEL ACRES; MODEL: HEIDI/ELITE; HAIR AND MAKEUP BY STEPHEN MANCUSO AND SAV WOOD, BOTH FOR ELITE; STYLED BY JENNIFER SABOURA AtlantaDIVAAwards AtlantaDIVAAwards AT sneaks apeekatthefinalists oftheninewomen’s categories.Here,from theBridal category, Anjolique Bridal LANTA —Thenominations areinfortheninthannualDIVA Designer oftheYear awards.Inthissection,WWD Collection’s polyestersatindress withnylonmeshoverlayandblacksilverbeading. iadivine diva P P ages 11-18 ages 11-18 12 WWD, WEDNESDAY, JULY 21, 2004

A TLANTA DIVA AWARDS divas rise to the occasion

ATLANTA — After nine years, the DIVA awards are all dressed up with a new place to go. Begun in 1995 to award a wide range of designers, the DIVAs this year will zero in on special occasion, a strong area for AmericasMart. Other categories are prom, pageant, bridal, bridesmaid, mother of the bride, headpieces, shoes and flower girl. Here, a look at the nominees in each category. Winners will be announced at an off-site black-tie gala during the October market.

CATEGORY: Bridesmaids NOMINEES: B2 Bridesmaids, Impression Bridal, Mori Lee Bridal

IMPRESSION BRIDAL’s orange polyester satin top with beaded detail and matching skirt.

B2 BRIDESMAIDS’ cranberry polyester crepe strapless dress.

MORI LEE BRIDAL’s beaded red polyester chiffon strapless wrap dress with matching stole. WWD, WEDNESDAY, JULY 21, 2004 13

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CATEGORY: Bridal NOMINEES: Anjolique Bridal Collection (on cover), Casablanca Bridal, Maggie Sottero Bridal

Ivory silk gown with beading and crystals from CASABLANCA BRIDAL. IP ROBBINS; STYLED BY JENNIFER SABOURA IP ROBBINS; STYLED BY FOR ARLENE WILSON AND SAVANNAH LEE PERRY; HAIR LEE PERRY; FOR ARLENE WILSON AND SAVANNAH

White polyester and nylon satin strapless gown with silver polyester lace and beading from MAGGIE SOTTERO BRIDAL. PHOTOS BY DANIEL ACRES; MODELS: HEIDI, MALORY, RENEE, CAROLINE J. AND ELENA S., ALL FOR ELITE, JESSICA ELLIS AND SABRINA SIKORA DANIEL ACRES; MODELS: HEIDI, MALORY, PHOTOS BY AND MAKEUP BY STEPHEN MANCUSO AND SAV WOOD, BOTH FOR ELITE; FASHION ASSISTANTS: JOANNA CUTRI, MARIE KELLOGG, VICKI PERRY AND CH JOANNA CUTRI, MARIE KELLOGG, ASSISTANTS: WOOD, BOTH FOR ELITE; FASHION STEPHEN MANCUSO AND SAV AND MAKEUP BY 14 WWD, WEDNESDAY, JULY 21, 2004

A TLANTA DIVA AWARDS

Beaded latte silk top Peach rayon Taupe silk top with stole and matching and Lyrex knit and matching tiered silk ruffle skirt tank with silk charmeuse from DAYMOR COUTURE. matching skirt from jacket and MONTAGE BY skirt from MON CHERI. DAMIANOU.

CATEGORY: Mother of the Bride NOMINEES: Daymor Couture, Montage by Mon Cheri, Damianou

Champagne-and- gold polyester satin dress from CUPID’S COLLECTION BY MARY’S BRIDAL.

CATEGORY: Flower Girl NOMINEES: Cupid’s Collection by Mary’s Bridal, Little Maidens by Venus, Precious Angels by Precious Formals

Rose-and-lavender White polyester polyester organza satin bodice and dress with beading white polyester and rosebud organza tiered appliqué from ruffle dress from PRECIOUS ANGELS LITTLE MAIDENS BY PRECIOUS BY VENUS. FORMALS. WWD, WEDNESDAY, JULY 21, 2004 15

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CATEGORY: Shoes NOMINEES: Coloriffics, Special Occasions by Saugus Shoe, Touch Ups by Benjamin Walk

Beaded white silk White silk slingbacks from charmeuse and COLORIFFICS. rhinestone shoes from SPECIAL OCCASIONS BY SAUGUS SHOE.

Clear vinyl and silver heels from TOUCH UPS BY BENJAMIN WALK.

CATEGORY: Headpieces NOMINEES: Allin Rae, Edward Berger, Malis-Henderson

What aWonderful Surprise To be Nominated for this Special Award We are Truly Honored

ALLIN RAE’s silver tiara with pearls and crystals.

NEW YORK SHOWROOM FASHION CENTER DALLAS Blake & Company WORLD TRADE CENTER 530 Seventh Ave. , 11th Floor Putnam Enterprises New York, NY 10018 15th Floor/Suite 15799 Tel: 212.869.5959 Tel: 800.522.7606 Fax: 212.869.5522 Tel: 404.580.3416 Email: [email protected] Fax: 404.523.8114 Email: [email protected] ATLANTA APPAREL CENTER Putnam Enterprises MIDATLANTIC- Suite 10 S 117a EDWARD BERGER’s Tel: 404.523.7606 NEW ENGLAND silver tiara with white Fax: 404.523.8114 Marsha Brody and gold rhinestones Email: [email protected] 2038 Berfond Court and polyester tulle veil. Merrick, NY 11566 CALIFORNIA MART Tel: 800.627.7422 Cary Lowe Mobile: 516.376.9694 Suite A303 Fax: 516.378.4311 Tel: 213.627.3458 Email: [email protected] Fax: 213.627.3140 Email: [email protected] DAMIANOU CORPORATE OFFICES CHICAGO APPAREL CENTER 32-01 57th Street Joan Prikos, Inc. Woodside, NY 11377 Room1377 Tel: 718.204.5600 Tel: 312.467.4274 Fax: 718.204.5081 Fax: 312.467.1775 Email: [email protected] Email: [email protected]

MALIS-HENDERSON’s pink hat with beading, feathers, rose appliqué Uolde-Mariam Photo: Walter and white polyester tulle veil. 16 WWD, WEDNESDAY, JULY 21, 2004

A TLANTA DIVA AWARDS

TIFFANY DESIGNS’ white CATEGORY: Prom polyester tulle gown with NOMINEES: Alyce Designs, Jovani, Tiffany Designs black floral sequin detail and matching stole.

ALYCE DESIGNS’ beaded turquoise silk chiffon gown with matching stole. It is an honor to be a 2004 DIVA Nominee.

Many thanks to our supporters within the retail community, who have contributed to our ongoing success.

WWW.MAGGIESOTTERO.COM JOVANI’s sequined purple polyester chiffon halter dress. WWD, WEDNESDAY, JULY 21, 2004 17

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CATEGORY: Special Occasion NOMINEES: Cassandra Stone, La Femme Fashion, Nicole Bakti

▼ CASSANDRA STONE’s pink-and-coral polyester chiffon strapless ruffle dress with beaded detail and matching stole.

NICOLE BAKTI’s black silk charmeuse pleated dress with rhinestone detail. ▼

THE WORLD’S NEXT GREAT FASHION CAPITAL® Congratulates the 2004 DIVA Fashion Awards Nominees:

PROM ACCESSORIES – SHOES alyce designs special occasions by saugus shoe jovani coloriffics tiffany designs touch ups by benjamin walk

PAGEANT SPECIAL OCCASION/WOMEN claire’s collection nicole bakti jovani red carpet by sherri hill cassandra stone landa designs la femme fashion

BRIDAL FLOWER GIRL casablanca bridal little maiden by venus maggie sottero bridal cupid’s collection by p.c. mary’s bridal anjolique bridal collection precious angels by precious formals

BRIDESMAID RETAILER OF THE YEAR – BRIDAL b2 bridesmaids bride beautiful, atlanta, ga mori lee bridal cc’s boutique, st. petersburg, fl impression bridal karen eagle, virginia beach, va

MOTHER-OF-THE-BRIDE RETAILER OF THE YEAR - PROM montage by mon cheri frills ‘n fancies, statesboro, ga damianou formal approach, jefferson city, tn daymor couture kaufman’s, inc., wheeling, wv

ACCESSORIES – HEADPIECES RETAILER OF THE YEAR – edward berger SPECIAL OCCASION malis-henderson legends, roswell, ga allin rae veils foxy lady boutique, myrtle beach, sc sondro boutique, inc., ft. lauderdale, fl

RISING STAR OF THE YEAR cinderella’s closet, inc., lilburn, ga zola keller, ft. lauderdale, fl the pageant place, birmingham, al

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Nominee Corporate Office 602 Neponset Street Canton, MA 02021 Ph: 781-821-1270 www.daymor.com Fax: 781-821-1275 WWD, WEDNESDAY, JULY 21, 2004 19 WWW.WWD.COM I.C. Isaacs’ CEO Rizzo Quiksilver President Sees $3B in Sales LOS ANGELES — Riding a wave of robust percent of the firm’s business for 2004. Adds Chairman Title growth, Quiksilver president Bernard Mariette Quiksilver, which said Tuesday that it has said the company is expected to increase sales seen high-single-digit to low-double-digit growth NEW YORK — I.C. Isaacs & Co. Peter to $3 billion in the next five to seven years. in Asia this year, opened its first shop in Inc., which produces the Marithé Rizzo For Quiksilver’s most recent fiscal year, ended Shanghai in May, and said it is eager to capital- & François Girbaud jeans brand in October of 2003, total revenue was $975 million. ize on the vast youth market in China. in the U.S., on Tuesday named The 30-year-old Huntington Beach-based com- “New territories clearly have a lot of potential,” Peter Rizzo chairman. pany, which said in June that it’s on track to see said Steve Brink, chief financial officer, who added Rizzo, 51, joined the firm as revenue of $1.19 billion to $1.2 billion for its 2004 that the company is looking to expand in Japan and chief executive officer in Dec- fiscal year, expects the Quiksilver and Roxy brands Southeast Asia as well as in Mexico and Brazil. ember. He now succeeds Staffan to grow into billion-dollar brands, while revenue As to whether the wave of success in the surf Ahrenberg, a financial adviser from the recently acquired DC Shoes line, as well industry might be on the verge of crashing in the to the brand’s designers, who as from the company’s 13 other brands, is expected near future, Brink said, “Our success doesn’t de- took on the chairman post in to grow to $1 billion over the same five to seven pend on surf being trendy.” February 2003 after François years. Currently, DC Shoes accounts for about 10 — Michelle Dalton Tyree Girbaud and Marithé Bachel- lerie took a 42.2 percent stake in Isaacs, their U.S. licensee. Rizzo said in an interview on Tuesday that his election to the chairman post “was actual- De Beers Taps 2 Cartier Execs ly part of the plan when they first hired me.” LONDON — De Beers LV, the diamond jewelry joint work on Sept. 1 at De Beers LV in London, reporting “Staffan was at the end of venture between the mining and marketing compa- to Leymarie. his position and the end of his ny and LVMH Moët Hennessy Louis Vuitton, has Leymarie said he plans to bulk up the De consulting agreement with the poached two Cartier executives for creative and Beers LV creative team and make it more interna- company, and this was the marketing roles. tional. However, he said it was premature to talk next logical move,” Rizzo said. most recent period for which Raphaele Canot, 35, formerly jewelry creative about future appointments. Since becoming ceo, the Isaacs has released financial director at Cartier, has been named art director at Paget, another former colleague of Leymarie, former Bergdorf Goodman results — the company re- De Beers LV, the company said. She will oversee worked for Cartier watches in Japan and estab- president has revamped the turned to profitability, posting brand image and will manage the creative team. lished the Richemont design center in Milan. Among merchandising approach of net income of $864,581, while In addition, Fabrice Paget, 36, the former mar- his responsibilities at De Beers LV will be oversee- the Girbaud U.S. line, tying it sales rose 31.3 percent to $21.7 keting director for Cartier’s watch division, will ing product management and communications. He more closely to the feel of the million. This followed several be marketing director, a new post. begins Aug. 16 and also reports to Leymarie. European signature line. He years of losses, including a $1.7 Guy Leymarie, chief executive of De Beers LV, The chief executive, who joined De Beers LV described the brand’s mer- million deficit last year. said in an interview that Canot’s role “will be in March, said he is putting together a global plan chandising style in an inter- Rizzo has said the firm ex- more about managing, rather than working as a for the company that will be presented to the view last week as “a dual ap- pects be profitable for 2004. In designer like Reema [Pachachi].” Pachachi board in September. “We should begin to see the proach, a high-low approach.” Tuesday’s over-the-counter trad- stepped down last week to pursue her own proj- output at the beginning of next year,” he said. During the three months ing, Isaacs’ shares rose 25 cents, ects, but is expected to contribute special designs De Beers has spent about $55 million on the ended March 31 — Rizzo’s first to $1.50, a new 52-week high. to De Beers LV on a freelance basis. joint venture. The two firms have said they plan to full quarter at the helm and the — Scott Malone Leymarie, formerly chief of Cartier, had hired spend about $200 million combined on the project. Canot at the French brand in 2001. She will begin — Samantha Conti

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100% COMMISSIONS PAID UPON SIGNING Show Floors Show Floors Lobby Gallery Lobby Gallery Floors 18 - 23 Mezzanine (2nd floor) Ballroom Floors 17 - 23 Ballroom FOR MORE INFORMATION PLEASE CONTACT: www.whpropertiesny.com Ira Rovitz Gary Kamenetsky (212) 984-8203 (212) 984-8134 Complimentary Shuttle Bus to Show Piers [email protected] [email protected] To exhibit please contact: Nouveau Collective tel/914.736.0030 fax/914.736.0333 • www.nouveaucollectivetradeshows.com 20 WWD, WEDNESDAY, JULY 21, 2004 WWW.WWD.COM Bendel’s Branching Out Sales at Dior Couture Continued from page one 20 percent jump in business. Easton. He called Bendel’s “an American prestige According to one consultant, about one-third Up 16% in First Half brand with a long history and devoted following.” of the cosmetics space is devoted to the Bendel- Wexner has a history of mushrooming brands branded products, known as HB Beauty. By Robert Murphy The luxury segment has gained into billion-dollar businesses, including Aber- The HB Beauty line, consisting of fragrance, momentum as economies in key crombie & Fitch, which was spun off into a sepa- candles and lotions, is sold at Bendel’s and also in PARIS — Driven by growing markets such as the U.S. and Asia rate public company; Bath & Body Works, and Limited’s Bath & Body Works stores. tourist trade and strong sales in have strengthened. The result Victoria’s Secret stores, both of which remain part Just last week, the store’s vice president and the U.S. and Asia, Christian Dior has been stronger sales across of Limited. general manager, Ed Burstell, left the company. Couture on Tuesday reported the board, but especially at high- At one time, Wexner believed Bendel’s could However, he was instrumental in elevating the first-half revenue that rose 16 per- end retailers. be a billion-dollar business, and in the Nineties profile of Bendel’s again to a level of visibility cent to 274 million euros, or $336.2 “June was good in Europe,” he he launched a strategy for expansion. However, not seen since the early Eighties, when the store million at average exchange. said. “Even in Paris [which has only a handful of Bendel’s branches opened, each was still on 57th Street. Product launches and The fashion house said operat- suffered from fewer tourists], selling fashion, accessories and beauty products. parties have helped keep Bendel’s popular. ing profit for the six months sales grew at double digits. There The branches were closed after a few years and Earlier this year, Bendel’s hired a ceo, Michael through June increased by more has been a return of tourist busi- had difficulties securing top designer labels due McCadden, who was executive vice president and than 30 percent. Like most ness in Paris. I was in Florence to competition from Neiman Marcus, Saks Fifth chief marketing officer at Priceline.com, and be- French firms, Dior reports sales last week and was surprised by Avenue and other stores. fore that was an executive vice president at Gap and earnings separately. It is ex- the number of Americans in the According to market sources, the upcoming Inc., putting Burstell into more of a secondary pected to provide full profits in store. Japanese are traveling Bendel’s strategy is different. It will focus on role. September. At constant exchanges again, and last week there were a beauty and lingerie, rather than a full assortment. Among Bendel’s recent beauty launches rates, Dior said sales in the peri- lot of Middle Eastern clients in Limited would not confirm that, though Wexner were the DVF Glamazonian compact, the od grew 20 percent. the Paris stores.” did say in his letter, “While the merchandise cate- Fragonard fragrance from France, Gosmile Dior president Sidney Tole- Toledano said sales were ro- gories to be offered at Easton have not been final- teeth whitening system, Freeze 24/7 eye care, dano called the results strong bust in all categories, from the ized, we know that we will be offering a carefully Christian Breton and the Agent Provocateur and indicative of luxury’s build- women’s ready-to-wear and acces- edited selection of Bendel-branded and third- nipple balm. More widely distributed lines, ing momentum. He said second- sories designed by John Galliano party products that consistently convey the excit- such as Mac, Trish McEvoy and Laura Mercier, quarter sales surged 26 percent to the men’s wear by Hedi Sli- ing prestige experience that is synonymous with are sold there, as well. to 138 million euros, or $166.3 mane and the high jewelry creat- Henri Bendel.” Bendel’s also is known for its Street of Shops, a million, and that he expects rev- ed by Victoire de Castellane. The Bendel’s flagship, while struggling for series of boutiques offering a mix of accessories, enue “in line with that of the first Sales of Christian Dior beauty years to turn a profit, nonetheless has been a jewelry and beauty products with narrow distribu- half in the second. We expect the products and fragrance will be leader in launching beauty and lingerie brands tion. It’s a concept that could be replicated. momentum to carry over.” integrated into Dior parent and has been successful in keeping a high profile The Easton center was developed by Wexner Toledano said volume grew at LVMH Moët Hennessy Louis in a city where Saks Fifth Avenue, Bergdorf and has been utilized as a testing ground for double-digit rates across geo- Vuitton’s first-half revenue, the Goodman and Bloomingdale’s operate much big- Limited concepts. The Aura Science beauty store graphical zones, led by the U.S., report of which is expected on ger flagships with huge buying clout. originated there, and while some branches did where retail sales in dollars Thursday. According to Limited’s Web site, Bendel’s is a open, eventually the strategy for an Aura Science bounded by 40 percent. “There In the second half, Dior will draw for “sophisticated, higher-income, thir- chain was dropped, though Aura Science products has been a very good dynamic in continue to build its retail web. tysomething women from all over the world.” The are sold at Victoria’s Secret Beauty stores. Wexner Hong Kong, China, Japan and As of the end of June, the firm op- store has about 80,000 square feet, with only 28,000 has been divesting his ownership in Easton, but Taiwan,” he said. erated 167 stores. Toledano said for selling. Last year, it posted $40 million in sales remains a partial owner, according to a Limited Meanwhile, Toledano report- another dozen or so stores will and $1,429 in sales per square foot, but yielded a spokesman. ed resurgent business in Europe, bow in the second half, including which has lagged behind the U.S. a flagship in Tokyo’s Ginza and and Asia since the beginning of stand-alone Dior Homme stores luxury’s comeback late last year. in Kobe and Shanghai. PPR’s Gucci Group Sees Sales Increase Continued from page 2 broadly in line with analysts’ con- Brothers in London. Jamieson sensus expectations and the said Lehman expected compara- stock was up 0.7 percent to close ble growth of 15 percent in the at 80.80 euros in trading on the quarter. Paris Bourse. Though Weinberg said little Through the first six months, on potential strategy changes at sales at PPR, whose far-flung in- Gucci Group, he did hint at cer- terests range from department tain modifications already set in stores to catalogues, stood at motion at YSL, including the re- 11.37 billion euros, or $14 billion, alignment of prices and mer- which was down 7.4 percent. chandise. He said more daywear Weinberg said the so-called would be introduced at a broad- “new PPR,” or the company’s re- er range of prices, adding that tail and luxury businesses, had the brand would not open new posted a 4.9 percent gain in the stores until it optimized its cur- second quarter to 3.91 billion rent network. euros, or $4.8 billion. He declined to comment on Rexel, the electronic compo- when the brand could become nents firm that PPR said it in- profitable, saying only that tends to sell by yearend, saw more progress had been made sales improve 2.3 percent to 1.71 “sooner than I expected three billion euros, or $2.1 billion. months ago. YSL has enormous Weinberg said the retail divi- potential.” sion’s sales gained 5.1 percent A more complete three-year to 3.31 billion euros, or $4.06 bil- strategy statement will be made lion, boosted by a good perform- by yearend by Gucci’s new ceo, ance in France. Sales at the former Unilever executive Robert Conforama home store reported Polet, Weinberg said. a 6.1 percent gain and the Fnac Meanwhile, he plugged YSL music and book chain gained Beauté’s upcoming launch in 8.3 percent. September of Cinemá, the first Sales at Printemps depart- post-Ford fragrance. “It has ment stores increased 8.2 percent, been well received by profes- as tourists returned to the firm’s sionals,” Weinberg said. “[YSL Paris flagship on the Boulevard Beauté] will have a stronger sec- Haussmann. Meanwhile, the ond half.” Redcats mail-order division fell Our guests like bagels, too, but they come free with one of YSL Beauté’s sales increased 0.1 percent. our clean, comfy rooms. Check into any of our five Manhattan locations 3.2 percent to 145.3 million euros, Like most French firms, PPR by calling 800-567-7720 or visiting applecorehotels.com or $178.7 million, in the February reports earnings and revenues to April period. separately. It is slated to give Overall, PPR’s sales were profits on Sept. 15. September 2004: JANE’s Seventh Anniversary Issue is the Ultimate Makeunder.

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By Kristin Young Fifty-nine lifestyle centers are planned or are under construction in the U.S., representing 30 million square GLENDALE, Calif. — General Growth Properties, the feet of space — 24 of them will bow in 2004, 22 in 2005 second-biggest U.S. mall operator, is in a political and and 13 in 2006, according to RREEF Funds/DB Real legal battle in this Los Angeles suburb to stop the con- Estate. Only four regional malls are scheduled to open struction of a proposed $300 million open-air lifestyle this year, and seven each in 2005 and 2006. Mall devel- center mixing retail, residential and entertainment, opers at this spring’s annual International Council of which is scheduled to be built next to the company’s Shopping Centers convention said lifestyle centers Glendale Galleria by fall 2006. would not supplant the mall, but would have an impact, The fight, which might be decided in a Sept. 14 voter particularly on weaker malls located near them. referendum on zoning changes unanimously approved “My view is [General Growth] is intimidated and in April by the city council, pits a tradi- threatened by lifestyle malls that are tional mall owner against Rick Caruso, becoming the rage in the United a former president of the Los Angeles States,” said Dave Weaver, a member of Police Commission who is a leading de- They go back the Glendale City Council, noting that veloper of smaller shopping centers “ people in this city of about 218,000 have that aren’t anchored by department and shop, go back shown support for the project. stores and that often include side- “Traditionally, they’ve only handled in- walks, parking at the curb and restau- and dine and go side malls. They’re spending millions rants along with specialty chain stores. of dollars to try to stop this.” General Growth, which is based in back and be The city of Glendale projected that it Chicago and operates 177 enclosed would get about $3.9 million in sales tax malls — second in the U.S. to the Simon entertained. and incremental property taxes from Property Group — says it doesn’t fear — Rick” Caruso Caruso’s project. The land is now occu- competition from The Americana at pied by a few buildings and a parking lot. Brand project planned by Caruso, but objects to a design General Growth has estimated that the Galleria that isn’t compatible with the 30-year-old Glendale might lose as much as $4 million annually because of Galleria because of the closing of Harvard Street leading restricted access and tenants jumping ship if The to the mall. Americana at Brand is built. Caruso said he is negotiat- The mall-development company, which bought the ing deals with Club Monaco, Sigrid Olsen, Cole Haan 1.5 million-square-foot Glendale Galleria for $415 mil- and Urban Outfitters, and the center also is in talks lion in November 2002, has collected 14,000 signatures with BCBG Max Azria, J. Crew, Eileen Fisher and which would be built on about 15 acres and would open on petitions to force the referendum. Kenneth Cole. onto Brand Boulevard — to feature classic elements of a Superior Court Judge Laura Matz here is set to rule Still, the Galleria is among the top malls in Southern lifestyle center, including 475,000 square feet of retail today on the acceptability of language in sample ballots California, notching $550 a square foot in annual sales. space, a two-acre park and 238 apartments and 100 con- that Caruso is challenging. Most regional malls pull in about $242 a square foot, ac- dominiums. He said he has made a deal with Turner In addition, Caruso filed a lawsuit against General cording to the ICSC. The Galleria casts a wide net to 25 Classic Movies to show classic films on a large outdoor Growth in February, alleging pressure to get Galleria tenants million visitors a year who come from the San Fernando screen in the park. to remain in the mall. General Growth denies the charge. Valley, north of Los Angeles, to Pasadena to the east. “If you can get people to be on your property for no The conflict is occurring as traditional U.S. mall con- Caruso, who developed the Grove, a 575,000-square- other reason than to gather and meet friends and enjoy struction has slowed because of saturation, the difficul- foot shopping center near the historic Farmers Market the day, then you give them a sense of ownership and then ty of securing large parcels of land suitable for con- in West Hollywood, is building $1 billion worth of proj- that’s where they go back and shop, go back and dine and struction and increased competition. ects in the state. He wants The Americana at Brand — go back and be entertained,” said Caruso, adding that the Luxury Brand Etro Gets in on Rodeo Drive Re By Kristin Young BEVERLY HILLS — The retail action on Rodeo Drive isn’t letting up. Less than a week after the ballyhooed Prada Epicenter debut, the Italian luxury house Etro on Monday opened its first West Coast store a block away. Etro, known for its bold, colorful textiles and embellished scarves, has unveiled a 3,700-square-foot boutique at 461 North Rodeo Drive. Flanked by Lana Marks and Frette, the classically turned-out store is indicative of the company’s success in the U.S. since it opened stores in 2000 in New York along with a wholesale showroom, company executives said. The U.S. operation pulls in more than $30 million a year, including wholesale business through Barneys New York, Saks Fifth Avenue and Neiman Marcus, as well as two stores that bowed in 2002 in Miami and Coral Gables, Fla. The company is planning more shops in the West, negotiating for space in South Coast Plaza in Costa Mesa, Calif., and at the Forum Shops at Caesars Palace in Las Vegas. “Strategically speaking, you have to be in New York and L.A.,” said Etro’s chief financial officer, Ippolito Etro. “It is a piece of the puzzle. And there’s synergies with wholesale as well. When you have a big store presence, the department stores see you with a different eye.” And most Angelenos will, too. Few are familiar with the 36-year-old company started by Ippolito’s father, Geralamo “Gimmo” Etro, a purveyor of textiles sought after by Ralph Lauren, Donna Karan and Liz Claiborne. In 1983, the firm turned to finished products, pushing aside the textile business, which now accounts for only 10 percent of total projected sales in 2004 of 180 million euros, or $222.86 million at current exchange rates. Etro remains a private, family-run business, with Ippolito’s brother, Kean, designing men’s wear, while sister Veronica designs women’s. Another brother, Jacopo Etro, runs the textile and home divisions.

PHOTOS BY DONATO SARDELLA DONATO PHOTOS BY Etro operates 35 directly owned and franchised stores worldwide and 60 in-store shops. Women’s wear at Etro in Beverly Hills. Italian architects Alberto Brugi and Elio Messi and U.S. architect Enrico Como de- WWD, WEDNESDAY, JULY 21, 2004 23 WWW.WWD.COM

Proposed site of The Americana at Brand, next to the Glendale Galleria.

TOP DOLLAR FOR Santa Monica, CA - Design Studio RETURNS,IR’S OR We are a design, sourcing and manufacturing agent with 15 years experi- CLOSEOUTS ence. We serve the Men’s and Women’sapparel markets with higher quality product that is trend right and proven at retail. Our clients include some of WALT ADAMS INC T:800-996-4469 F: 800-540-2784 the largest retailers in North America and also smaller to medium-sized, [email protected] directional wholesalers. PHOTO BY TYLER BOYE PHOTO BY We are about to embark on a new and ongoing design project for a "mass market retailer" and we are seeking applicants for the following positions: project could surpass The Grove’s sales by the numbers that the Galleria remains figures of almost $760 a square foot. a major force in Southern California. To MEN’S DESIGNER (F/T) Arthur Sohikian, a spokesman for suggest that the Galleria is against com- WOMEN’S DESIGNER (F/T) General Growth, said the company was petition is absurd. By closing down aware of Caruso’s project before it ac- streets and putting up walls, you’re mak- MERCHANDISING ASSISTANT (F/T) quired the Galleria but wasn’t concerned ing a project focus inward rather than GRAPHIC DESIGNER (P/T or Freelance) until recent design features emerged, in- outward toward its neighbors and exist- cluding street closures and an “unfriend- ing businesses.” Requirements for all positions include the following: liness of design” toward the Galleria and The Galleria will soon release plans • Understanding of the young contemporary market, trend analysis and research other businesses on Brand Boulevard. for a revamp that would expand the mall • Experience with mass market retailers who are price sensitive “It’s not about competition, it’s about to street level and add some restaurants • Experience in wovens, cut & sew knits, denim and sweaters compatibility,” Sohikian said. “It’s clear to the mix, he said. • Experience in fabric and yarn sourcing, trim research • Experience communicating with overseas factories and suppliers (majority in China) • Strong computer skills including graphic and design software (such as Illustrator & Photoshop) and administrative software (such as MS Office and Filemaker Pro) • Good eye for details, excellent organizational and follow-up skills • Ability to work in a fast-paced, collaborative environment • Ability to communicate with and get along well with coworkers, etail Stampede customers and vendors IF you meet the above requirements, we want to hear from you. Please be signed a simple glass facade framed in white to mark the prepared to submit a portfolio of current, relevant work for all positions entrance of the Rodeo Drive store. Once inside, the fiesta (except that of Merchandising Assistant). Salaries depend upon experience. begins. Save for the sandstone floors and Italian walnut We offer a great work environment in Santa Monica, CA and a company walls, eye-popping color is everywhere. The store has been benefits package. divided into two rooms: a men’s wear department at the Please send a resume and brief cover letter. NO PHONE CALLS, PLEASE. front and women’s wear in back. There are rows of printed ties ($105), blue velvet blazers whose collars pop up to re- E-mail: [email protected] Fax: 310-828-0191 veal undersides in either orange or green ($1,420), and three-quarter-length wool coats in white for men ($1,280). In women’s accessories, there are multicolored jewel- Etro’s Rodeo Drive facade. encrusted orange belts ($280 to $630), chartreuse and yellow fur cuffs ($70 to $115) and patchwork handbags ($680 to $1,500). Farther back, the shoppers’ eye is drawn to more women’s must-haves, which this fall include an embellished (sequined, beaded and appliquéd) cream and yellow tulle scarf selling for $1,970, a fuchsia fur cape at $1,340 and a champagne-colored embellished velvet cape at $1,080. All prices are retail. LOS ANGELES Large squares of carpet in both rooms push color even more, with orange lined with fuchsia for men and fuchsia lined with orange for women. Dressing rooms are cordoned SALES ASSOCIATE off with heavy striped jacquard and velvet curtains from Etro’s home collection in more muted tones. Fixtures are restrained, with black lacquered walnut and glass display Maxfield is an international designer destination that offers cases and one large, square gray leather settee in the women’s area. men’s and women’s luxury fashion, artwork, jewelry and col- A VIP and custom-made area for Hollywood luminaries has been set up in the base- lectible home furnishings. Maxfield is seeking experienced ment, but the red carpet is not why Etro is here, said Ippolito. “We’re in the business to sales associates that possess the following qualifications: make money, not so much to be in the movie business,” he said. “We’re not in a rush to • five years experience in luxury retail give free clothing left, front and center. It’s more about building a partnership with peo- • knowledge of fashion designers/trends ple who are not that famous yet, but who have good potential.” • ability to cultivate and maintain client base And, of course, the locals are expected to chip in. Etro projects the store will ring up • excellent interpersonal communication skills $3.5 million in sales its first year. A party has been scheduled for July 29. A guest list • men’s specialty a plus wasn’t immediately available. E-mail resume to: [email protected] 24 WWD, WEDNESDAY, JULY 21, 2004

Calvin Klein Inc., a wholly-owned subsidiary of Phillips-Van Heusen, Jersey + Rib Lycra Fleece + Velour is looking for a PR Director for the Home business. Drake Fabrics 718-389-8902 PR Director-Home SUPPLEX*TASLAN Largest Supplier of IN-STOCK Woven Solid Fabrics. Available in all Finishes. Individual will manage the day-to-day editorial publicity, build and Domestic/Export www.fabrics.com maintain relationships with home press, pitch feature story ideas to key Venture Textiles 1-800-4-SUPPLEX editors and publications, present lines in editorial appointments, and oversee sample requests. They will also be responsible for developing and implementing yearly publicity plans, coordinating reports, liaising with licensees, organizing seasonal showroom presentations, managing Cash For Retail Stock & Closeouts. No Lot Too Big or Too Small. invitation lists and mailings, organizing interview requests, coordinating Call CLOTHES-OUT: press kits, and providing support for special events. Bachelor's degree (937) 898-2975 preferred with at least 7 years experience in public relations or CLOSEOUT - PANTS!! publishing. Must have strong interpersonal and communications skills 15,000 Pair Navy Blue Pants @ 2.50 ea. Bulk sale. Call Bill: 214-275-0596 and the ability to function in a fast paced environment. Self motivated WOMEN’S JEANS CLOTHING with strong organizational skills a plus. Good contacts and knowledge WHOLESALE GREAT SELECTION GREAT PRICES! of the home industry also important. Yi Li Da, Inc. 246 5th Ave at 28th St Tel/Fax: 212-684-2906 For consideration, please email your resume to Patterns, Samples, Small Lots [email protected] or fax to (212) 768-8922. High-end samples, patterns, small lots, and overseas productions. Calvin Klein, Inc., is an equal opportunity employer. Please call 212-840-9597 JOBBER/EXPORTER We buy better goods. All categories, including fabrics. Immediate $$. Please call 212-290-2336 Calvin Klein, Inc. Major Sock Co. Seeking Licenses or Licensing Agents for Men’s & Ladies’ Athletic and Dress Socks. Call Alan at: 347-680-3340

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RASKIN EXECUTIVE SEARCH Club Monaco Retail Management Broadway & White St. Exclusive to the Fashion Industry Friday, July 30 Loft/Showroom - Approx 2,200 sq. ft. Ileen Raskin 212-213-6381 3rd Floor walk-up - Live in/out - Hi ceil. 10:00am - 5:00pm $5,000 mo./Multiple-year lease Nancy Bottali, Accessory 212-213-6386 Broker - 914-273-7000 Ed Kret, Textiles/Apparel 212-213-6384 Interviews by appointment only. To be considered, resume must be received Fax: 609-448-8248 no later than July 28. Please send resume by fax: 212.243.2330 or www.raskinexecsearch.com email: [email protected]

FASHION RESUMES SINCE 1970 Lifetime Updating/Phone Interviews Rush Service Available PROFESSIONAL RESUMES, INC. (212)697-1282/(800)221-4425 www.resumesforfashion.com ASST PATTERNMAKER Women’s high end designer apparel co Catherine Malandrino W 39th St/Garment Ctr seeks assistant patternmaker with at Catherine Malandrino, a leading designer least 3 years experience. Work on with high profile clientele, offers 2 Furnished office space available. immediate openings: Many amenities included. 300 SF w/ sportswear - samples to production. cam. $950/mo. Call now, won’t last. Excellent work environment and pay. PR Coordinator Tel: 212-997-1736 - Marie Please send resume: Seeking an individual with excellent Camille Ashby, 76 Ninth Avenue writing & communication skills, as well 1407 Broadway 8th Ave #555 24/7 Attendant 16th Floor, New York, NY 10011 as knowledge of pulls & sample traffic. Office/Showroom Sublet - Small space. Best Deals On The Avenue 212-645-8688 Ideal candidate should have a minimum PRIME LOCATION! 1675-3108 sq ft Beautifully Renovated [email protected] of 3 years related experience. Call Sylvia @ 516-524-6049 Owner 212-695-0005 Or 718-387-0500 Visual Merchandiser Admin. Assistant A Visual Merchandiser is needed for 4 40th St. btw. 7th & 8th Ave OFFICE SPACE Receptionist / Order Entry / Billing of our retail stores. Excellent ability to 215 West 40th Street On 40th street between 6th & Broadway. Seeking upbeat individual for general Buyer execute creative visual "scenery" pre- Desk space avail/share office/A/C/call office duties in a fast paced Leg Wear ASSISTANT BUYERS sentations for each collection and to FIRST TIME OFFERED Monday-Thurs/11AM-1PM -(212) 869-0590 &Underwear Co. Pleasant environment merchandise each collection. Some in small, growing business. Must have Women’s specialty catalog co. seeks travel required. Ideal candidate should TURNKEY Word & Excel exp. Growth opportunity. self-motivated, high-energy professio- have a minimum of 3 years experience SHOWROOM SPACE Please Fax resume to: 212-244-5535 nals w/ 3+ yrs. exp. to aid the buyer in and present a portfolio of previous development & management of visual design work. 2,000-3,000 SF merchandise category(s) from initial Administrative Assistant concept & planning through final sale. Please Fax resumes to Lisa at: Contact: Grant Greenspan For a busy apparel company. To assist Fashion & merch. sense req’d, strong 212-840-3630 or E-mail: KAUFMAN/ADLER REALTY with answering calls, setting up communication & numerical skills & [email protected] 212-377-4500 x240 appointments, travel plans, etc. for busy proficiency w/ Excel a must. A degree No Phone Calls Please. executives. Some Word, Excel and W 39th & Broadway in fashion merch. preferred. Excellent Outlook required. Please fax resume to: compensation/benefits package. Showrooms/Offices 212-382-2421 Attn. Shelley View of Bryant Park For consideration, please fax or email 1060,1600, 2800, & 4600 Sq. Ft. Admin Since 1967 your resume, including salary history : Louis Zimbaro VP 212-889-7460 Fax: 212-916-8320 COLORIST $60K Joseph P. Day Realty Corp. W-I-N-S-T-O-N Email: [email protected] Print & Stripe Fabric Coords APPAREL STAFFING Visit us at www.newport-news.com [email protected]; Call: 212-947-3400 1407 BROADWAY DESIGN*SALES*MERCH SHOWROOMS/OFFICES ADMIN*TECH*PRODUCTION TREBOR MGMT (212)557-5000 F: (212)986-8437 Steven Lambert 212-944-6094 Buyer CONTROL BUYER 488 7th Ave (36th Street) Apparel Staffing, Ltd. Associate Buyer Women’s specialty catalog co. seeks *PRODUCTION*DESIGN* Women’s Knits & Sweaters self-motivated, high-energy professio- LIVE/WORK SHOWROOMS nals w/ 4+ yrs. exp. in Inventory 1BR- 600 SF - from $1750 *TECH DESIGN*GRAPHIC DESIGN* Exciting, fast growing, NY based major *MERCHANDISING* Women’s fashion private label company Management. This person will be Great location. Hi ceils. Wd flrs. Immed. responsible for the appropriate 212-629-8694 M-F 10am-6pm NO FEE See career listings @www.apparelstaffing.com seeking associate buyer. This position Cut/Sew/Ship Or Fax Resume To: (212) 302-1161 requires 2+ yrs of buying exp. Candidate product lines in maintaining profitable Patterns/Samples/Beading must have sourcing & product develop- inventory indicators w/in the context AGGRESSIVE SPACES Small or big lots. We do markers and ment experience, strong communication of assigned goals for initial fulfillment, as low as $16 per sq. ft. samples too. Call 973-266-0901 Duplicates Cut & Sew ASSISTANT DESIGNER backorders, cancellations and over- Missy sportswear co. seeks well organ- skills, be highly organized and have experi- Office/Showroom Space Hidrock Realty Full Service - Small Production ence working with multiple vendors. stocks. Mail order or retail exp. req’d. 877-NYC-SPACE Call Johnny: 212-278-0608/646-441-0950 ized & meticulous person, that can Strong communication skills and profi- multi-task. Trim research, strong flat Fax resume: (212) 575-3225 or email: [email protected] ciency w/ Excel a must. A degree in Showroom / Office / Retail sketching, great follow thru & good Account/Finance preferred. Excellent We find you space-best deal-no fee attitude. Photoshop & Illus. compensation/benefits package. Fax resume to Ms. Ziegel (212) 764-5981 Sublet 525 7th/ready PATTERNS, SAMPLES, For consideration, please fax or email Garment Center Real Estate Customized Knitwear Design Studio your resume, including salary history: Call Paul 212 947-5500 X 100 PRODUCTIONS Assist Prod’n Coord Buyer/Women’s Fax: (212)916-8320 High-End Couture All lines,Any styles. Fine Fast Service. Major sptswr importer seeks highly or- OUTSTANDING OPPORTUNITY Showrooms Bwy + 7th Ave. Email [email protected] Handknit Swatches, Samples, Production Call Sherry 212-719-0622. ganized and detail oriented indiv with Luxury Italian fashion brand needs a Visit us at www.newport-news.com 1000, 1500, 2500, 5000 Great $$ Brand Name Design Exp-No Minimum outstanding communication and com- seasoned Buyer for their womens con- New Installation - Great Light Call 917-612-1094 puter skills, to work in a high energy temporary collection. Must have at least Prime Manhattan Jon 212-268-8043 prod’n dept. Knowledge of Mandarin is 6years previous buying exp. and strong PATTERNS, SAMPLES, aplus. 1 year experience Employee fashion sense. Salary $125K w/ bonus, COSTERS (2) $45-58K SPEND LESS, KEEP MORE PATTERN / SAMPLES friendly with full company benefits! and great benefits. Please email resume 1,500-10,000 sq ft Shwrm/Office/Design PRODUCTIONS Sportswear or Lingerie/Foundation Superior quality for an Affordable price. Please fax resume to: to: [email protected] [email protected]; Call: 212-947-3400 All classy space. Call Allan Gallaway Full servcie shop to the trade. Fine JM @ 212-944-2867 Bernstein R.E. 212-594-1414 Ext 251 212-302-8095 fast work. 212-869-2699. WWD, WEDNESDAY, JULY 21, 2004 25

ATTENTION FASHION DESIGNERS DISCOVER FASHION’S BEST KEPT SECRET...

KRAZY KAT SPORTSWEAR THE INSIDER’S SOURCE FOR SEXY CITY STYLE. SPORTSWEAR LLC DESIGNER Sales Assistant Sr. Accounts We are seeking a dynamic, Major Junior Wear Mfr. has an OPEN HOUSE Receivable Executive talented design pro with 10 yrs. immediate opening for an aggres- exp. to join our NY staff designing sive, well organized, Assistant July 30th & August 2nd 9am to 4pm A Leading Apparel Industry for a major moderate contempor- with a good fashion sense, and Company seeks an experi- ary co. Must have background in strong organizational and com- enced executive to supervise updated knits and wovens for munication skills. Min. 2 yrs. exp. Fax Resumes to (212) 884-2396 or chargebacks and receivables. pants, skirts and jkts. Must be Clerical duties, computer literate. able to shop stores for the Position located in our New Industry exp. a plus. Please Fax email [email protected] Jersey Headquarters. newest trends. Strong knowledge of fabrics and an understanding or E-mail all resumes to: for location information Minimum 7-8 years relevant (212) 302-3620 industry experience in similar of development time lines. Excellent salary and benefits. [email protected] www.nyandcompany.com position required with strong Fax resume to HR: communications and com- 212-827-0897 *Only qualiﬁed candidates will be contacted. puter skills. Salary commensurate with experience. PATTERNMAKER Custom Women’s Clothing Please e-mail your resume Small Couture Operation with salary history to: Marketing Manager Tel: 212-465-8451 / Fax: 212-465-8461 DESIGNER - Jr. Jeans [email protected] Brand Management consultancy to the DENIM ACCOUNT EXECUTIVE Seeking individual w/2-3 years experience fashion industry seeks Marketing Man- PATTERNMAKER-HEAD Looking for motivated professional and Photoshop/Illustrator proficiency. Attn: Rohit Maharishi ager with significant background in Branded & Private Label Mfr seeks or- strategic brand development. Proven with at least 3 years experience in the Please Fax resume to: 212-869-5047 NO PHONE CALLS PLEASE ganized individual skilled in first patterns denim sales market. Applicant must experience in branding and licensing from sketch to sample & then to produce be highly motivated, organized and required. Merchandising and research all production patterns/supervised sample have ongoing customer relationships savvy a plus. Position involves 2-3 room. Must be a self starter, neat & or- with specialty and department stores. DESIGNER FABULOUS FREELANCE & days/week. in NJ office. Fax resume & Major Contemp. Designer seeks ganized and able to delegate work to Fax resume to 212 921 2850. PERM OPPS!!! salary requirements to: 609-734-4307 meet deadlines. 5 years exp in run- Fax resume: 212-921-2850 Creative Designer. Min. 6 yrs. exp. in Designing Collection, w/strong commu- TAYLOR HODSON, INC. ning a pattern room required. nication skills w/orient. Account Execs w/ mass market exp. or Please fax resume to: 212-354-1300 cosmetics bkgrd, Tech Designers MERCHANDISER/ or email: [email protected] Design Assistant TECHNICAL DESIGNER Patternmakers, Samplemakers, Design Est’d. Madison Ave. Lingerie Co. seeks Min 3 yrs. exp. w/strong communica- &Merchandising Assistants and DESIGNER Patternmaker an Assistant Designer in Daywear & tion & good knowledge of Garment more!!! Please submit resumes to our Sleepwear. Only exp’d. candidates need MAX LEATHER GROUP/ MILLENNIUM FURS construction work. Fashion Division ASAP!!! CIPRIANI ACCESSORIES apply. Fax resume to: 212-889-8411 Fax resume w/cover letter to 212-398-9695 fax: (212) 924-1503 Patternmakers Needed!!! e-mail: [email protected] NEW YORK CITY Call: 973-826-1150 x3602 or 201-615-9824 Design Assistant Leading designer belt & small leather or Email: Great opportunity for candidate with Jr. Designer/Merchandiser FASHION CAREER FAIR goods co seeks exp’d Merchandiser/ [email protected] Denim exp. & knowledge of CAD. Photo- The Promotional Products Division of Thur Sept 9, 2004 NY, NY Designer to join our growing co. shop/Illustrator req’d. Fax/E-mail to SB: global sourcing partner has an immedi- Biggest Brands/Best Companies Position based in NYC Showroom. Exp’d candidates only! 212-719-2653 / [email protected] ate opening for a motivated and talented Successful candidate will handle designer in NYC creating GWP bags View listings/exhibitors at: www.fashioncareerfairs.com multi-facets of our business including and gift items for the fragrance, beauty merchandising, design & prodn. We DESIGNER- & cosmetic industries. seek a creative person w/solid design Experienced at design and product FIRST SAMPLE exp coupled w/strong analytical/ mer- ASSOCIATE/ development of fashion accessories chandising bkgd. Resp include interac- (handbags, cosmetic bags, packaging, PATTERNMAKER tion w/buyers, our design & prodn SLEEPWEAR general promotional items), able to Missy sportswear co. seeks person team, handling pricing & spec sheets. JONES NEW YORK INTIMATES communicate concepts quickly both to DESIGNER - with fashion flair. Excellent technical Licensed by Madison Intimate Brands clients & our team in Asia via pencil &organizational skills needed for a Must be well-organized, highly motivated, Excellent opportunity with growth po- artwork or other visual expression skills SLEEPWEAR fast paced co. Min. 3-4 yrs exp. team player. Min 3 yrs exp desired, tential, with well-established compa- (Photoshop; Illustrator). A good aware- FREELANCE OR P/T Fax resume to Ms. Ziegel (212) 764-5981 pref w/belts/small leather goods. PLANNERS ny! We seek an expd, fast, detail- ness of cost and manufacturing issues Excellent communication skills req’d. Needed for Sleepwear launch of Branded Retail...... 65-100K oriented individual with strong is essential. Must have a portfolio. We offer a competitive salary + com- illustration/sketching skills, both free- American Designer for Dept. Stores. GRAPHIC ARTIST Merchandise...... 65-80K If you are enthusiastic, team oriented Min 3-5 yrs current exp in Sleepwear, Large childrenswear company is look- prehensive employee benefits pack- Replenishment / Allocation Analyst....40-50K hand and knowledge of Illustrator, &looking for an exciting opportunity age. Pls submit resume & cover letter Photoshop, Adobe. Also able to flat necessary. Must have ability to crea- ing for a Graphic Artist with experi- Distribution Analyst……………..40-50K in a fast paced environment, with tively develop and merchandise; possess ence in infant/toddler boys. Will work w/salary requirements to: sketch with design details. Must have real growth potential, pls send resume: [email protected] www.tuttleagency.com good fashion and color sense; ability to great fabric/color/trim sense. Ability to closely with entire design team. Indi- [email protected] sketch, spec & communicate overseas via vidual must have good MAC skills and Fax resumes: 212-448-0932 Attn: Ilene write and communicate effectively. Or email: [email protected] Min 2 yrs in Intimates, necessary. Adobe Photo, Illustrator, Lectra system. must be proficient with Photoshop/ Competitive salary + benefits. Please Email resume for immediate considera- Illustrator. Fax resume 212-239-2766. MERCHANDISER/LINE BUILDER email resume: Subject Header: Your tion: [email protected] Established 20 year old importer of PROD’N COORD TO $60K Name- Associate Designer, to: DESIGNER SOCKS, HOSIERY and ACCESSO- Many Openings for Bi-Lingual Chinese [email protected] N.Y.C. Co. seeks a Designer to help RIES seeks hands on individual with Fashion Network 201-503-1060/Fax 1070 assemble & manage a team for the experience. Individual must be launching of a new Young Designer Designer HANDBAG & SHOES creative and convert new concepts into Designer Asst/Production Asst Contemporary Sportswear label. Must new products. He/She needs to Prod’n./Sample Coordinator Leading children’s wear importer be organized with 5 years exp. in related (Sweaters/Wovens) ACCOUNT EXEC merchandise and direct design from A Seeking individual w/strong computer, market, and a take-charge personality. Leading well established domestic seeks a designer assistant/production Excellent opportunity for highly moti- to Z. Person needs to have good organizational, and communication skills. artist for girl’s design dept. Must have Resourceful with fabric/trim, P.V. exp., manufacturer and importer seeks communications skills and be able to Must multi-task and handle follow-ups. relationships w/European mills and exp’d Designer for sweaters, knits & vated person w/ proven exp. & strong strong communication skill; well organized; account relationships. Must have fol- work directly with approval process, Please Fax or E-mail all resumes to: energetic; able to handle multi-tasks their U.S. agents a must. We offer a &wovens. Must be exp’d in all phases designers and products. Minimum 212-840-7463 / [email protected] competitive salary and comprehensive of mfg from start to finished product. lowing with high-end specialty & de- and a team player. Strong Illustrator partment stores. Excellent communi- four years experience. Track record and Photoshop skill required. benefits. E-mail resume/salary require- Fax resume: 718-369-0516 with SOCKS/ CASUAL FOOTWEAR/ ments to: [email protected] cation, computer and analytical skills PRODTN/ADMIN ASST Please fax resume to 212-564-5201 required. Fax resume: 212-921-2850 COLD WEATHER GOODS a plus. Women’s/Young Men’s importer seeks Attn.: Linda Richman Possible travel overseas. Must have production/administrative ass’t. Quali- Design JOBS JOBS JOBS knowledge of Mac, Photoshop, Illustrator. fications include strong organizational, Designer *Artists - Boy - Young Men- Girl- JR Send resume, cover letter with communication and computer skills. DESIGNER requested salary to Seeking a detail oriented individual exp’d. Print Designer *Designer Assist- missy apl-spec spl room Mastery of Lotus Approach, Excel and autumn cashmere *Designer Girls Layette - N-T- [email protected] AS400 a must. Applicant must be de- Seeks Assistant Designer with 2 or in embroidery and bead work. Must have Home sewing industry leader seeks exp’d. excellent communication skills for over- Print Designer w/same knowledge of yarn *Designer yg men better denim bottom/jkts tail oriented in all phases of produc- more years of sweater design experi- *Designers-assists-assoc boy-girl-jr-yg men tion and will also assist sales team. 2+ ence, good taste level and strong com- seas factories. Travel required. Please dyes as well. Must be familiar with CAD "ON THE MARKS" Fax all resumes to: 212-382-1178 operations and be able to communicate *Designers-assoc-assist boy or girls 4/18 years experience. puter skills. *Director of production ladies-men apparel Please fax resume and salary Fax resume to: 212-398-2255 w/overseas suppliers & licensors. Fax Production (all levels)...... 30-100K resume to Don Edwards at: 212-532-3525 *Patternmaker and Head- Private Label requirements, to: (212) 944-0933 *Production Coord - PC Goods Buying Planning ...... 40-80K Designer *Production coords - bilingual chinese Director Mdse & Sales ...... 100-170K DESIGNER *Product coord laison bet design & prod AE (shoes & accessories) ...... 70-80K Product Development Estb’d boys sptswr & dress wear co. Size 4-16 designer wanted for major girls seeks creative self starter w/ computer EDI Administrator *Production:mgrs & coords & assists Product Development ...... 40-60K Start-up intimate apparel co. seeks free- sportswear division. Great opportunity Hi-vol women’s sptswr mfr needs expe- *Retail Planners - Analysts 45-80k Fabric R&D...... 60-95K lance professional with min 5 yrs exp. as a design exp. (adobe illust). Knldge of for creative, motivated individual able fabric & trim w/ ability to take initial rienced, hi-energy pro to run busy data *Sweaters jrs: Tech or Design Assist-Assoc. Designers (all areas) ...... 40-100K prod. development /production manager. to work in a fast paced environment. dept. Must know EDI. ASN, UPC 128 Foundations specific exp & relationships concept & run. Detail oriented team *Technical Desgn&Assists&entrylevel Many other opptys available Must have exp. in children’s market. Bar code Labels AS400. Excellent *Technical designer-sweater jr or missy w/reliable overseas sourcers a must. Pls player. Exclnt bfts. 401(k). Please fax resume to: (212) 575-8141 Fax resume to: 212-564-8885 Oppty. Fax resume: (212)764-5981 Call (212) 643-8090; fax 643-8127 (agcy) Call 212-986-7329 or Fax 212-986-7708 send resumes to: [email protected] 26 WWD, WEDNESDAY, JULY 21, 2004

-August Silk- 3 Technical Positions Sr. Technical Production Coordinator Wovens - Must be fit expert & have knowledge of pattern making. Will be resp. for all product fit approvals for proto and bulk. Monitor production calendar, direct fit meetings, and communicate daily CUT & SEW KNIT DESIGNER - JUNIORS w/factories. Knowledge of Cantonese & Mandarin a plus. Mudd Jean’s new Junior’s Knit Line seeks a take charge Designer with a min. of 2 yrs. exp. Responsibilities include Technical Coordinator T-shirts (cut & sew) - Minimum 2 - trend & color forecasting, development of knit line from concept 3 years experience in cut & sew tops. Technical Coordina- to finished sample. Must have knowledge of Junior fit. Salary tor Sweaters - Reports directly to Technical Director of Cor- commensurate w/ exp. Please fax Pam @ (212) 730-2289 DESIGN porate Knitwear. Work with designer on proto fittings, coordinate and run pro- SWIMWEAR DESIGNER - JUNIORS Kmart Corporation is seeking Design Directors, Designers, duction fittings. Resp. for all bulk approvals. Track, spec, and Mudd Jean’s news Junior’s Swimwear Line seeks take charge Associate and Assistant Designers for its’ New York Design communicate fit comments to factories. Liason between de- Designer w/ min. 2 yrs. exp. Responsibilities include trend & Office. These positions require individuals with strong creative sign and production. High productivity level and excellent color forecasting, development of swim line from concept to and technical skills in the following product categories: org. skills a must for both positions. Opportunity for finished sample. Must have knowledge of Junior fit. Salary Men’s, Women’s, Boys, Girls, Baby, Graphics and Prints, advancement commensurate w/ exp. Please fax Pam @ (212) 730-2289 Accessories, Intimates and Home. These high exposure positions will afford innovative and charismatic candidates Please fax resumes: 212-221-6393. No phone calls please. SWIMWEAR ACCOUNT EXECUTIVE/MERCHANDISER - JUNIORS the ability to be a part of one of the most exciting growth Exciting opportunity for self motivated individual. Account opportunities in retail, as we build our in-house Design Executive needed to launch 2005 Junior Swimwear Line. studio in New York. Candidate must have a min. of 4 yrs. exp. in swimwear market We offer competitive salaries, excellent benefits, a casual TECHNICAL DESIGNER w/ Dept. stores. Responsibilities include but not limited to: environment, flexible schedules, and the opportunity to join a merchandising the line, establishing accounts, analyzing & Branded jeans wear co. seeks cre- world-class organization. Please forward resumes to : ative individual w/3-5 yrs. exp. in reacting to business trend. Proven track record & computer [email protected] DESIGNERS skills are a must. Please fax Pam @ (212) 730-2289 technical design. Responsibilities (it is necessary that you reference the product category that Major children’s outerwear include sketching, specs, tech company seeks Freelance TECHNICAL DESIGNER - JUNIORS you are applying for in the subject line.) pacs, fittings, daily communica- No phone calls please. Designers w/minimum 3 yrs. tion w/vendors and factories. Candidate must have experience in woven bottoms, computer experience in related field. skills & tech drawing. Full knowledge of garment construction, Must be organized and computer Must be self motivated, have literate. patternmaking & grading is mandatory. Please fax Min @ fresh ideas with good color (212) 619-6952 Fax resume to Human Resources Designer/Assoc Designer sense and able to work in a 212-719-1521. KNIT PATTERNMAKER - JUNIORS fast paced team environ- Candidate must be a self-motivated, organized person w/ L.A. based (Ad #149) ment. Knowledge of Illustra- strong technical knowledge in cut & sew knits. Must be able Position will be responsible for designing soft wovens, em- tor and Photoshop a must. broidery and beading layouts. Will work with patternmakers, Writer to do flat technical sketches, patternmaking & garment spec. Please fax resume attn. Craft Instructional Writer Proficient w/ Gerber system. Please fax Min @ (212) 619-6952 communicate with vendors, supervise design assistants, and SM (212) 997-7996 Pattern Company seeks instructional attend fittings / fabric & production meetings. Must have a writer to provide home sewer with clear OFFICE MANAGER fashion design degree and 5 yrs. design experience. Excel- instructions to accompany our technical illustrations for craft, costumes and Candidate must be well organized, pro-active w/ "do anything" at- lent sketching ability, knowledge of beading / embroidery home dec patterns. Candidate must titude. Strong communication & computer skills a must. Proficient techniques & garment construction knowledge are essential. have related education, computer back- in Word & Excel. Responsibilities include but not limited to: Assist Warehouse Manager ground and extensive knowledge of Fax to (323) 277-5426 NJ Location. Great opportunity for ex- craft, costume and home dec industry. CEO, managing supplies, event planning, day to day operations perienced warehouse person. Must be Benefits. Send Resume to: Simplicity of running an office. Please fax Pam @ (212) 730-2289 highly computer literate w/ knowledge Pattern Co., 2 Park Avenue, 12th Fl, NY, of ASN, EDI and allocations. NY 10016, Attn: Human Resources or Fax resume Attn: Robyn 212-921-8369 email [email protected] PRODUCTION Showroom Asst Retail Sportswear co seeks showroom asst for PRODUCTION ASSISTANT MANAGER fast-paced, friendly environment. Re- 3 years exp. in designer market, must Manager sponsible for maintaining showroom have technical knowledge and experi- ROC YOUR CAREER! and all clerical duties. Must have ence in domestic and import production. ROCAWEAR is about bringing dynamic Merchandise positive attitude, be hard working and Must be a team player, organized, and forces together, whether engineering Information Systems responsible. Excellent benefits. Fax have excelent communication and com- the fusion of music and fashion or the resume to: Sharlet (212)391-8027 puter skills.Fax resume: 212-921-2850 blending of street-style with quality Bloomingdale’s has an opportunity apparel. Why not apply this energy and like no other for a highly organized Production Assistant commitment to excellence to your SPEC TECHNICIAN and motivated professional to join our Major childrenswear importer of girls Busy NY production office seeking a career? Merchandise Information Organiza- detail oriented, highly motivated indi- &boys infant 2/6X-7 knit and woven Account Executive Juniors/Juniors Plus Requires at least 5-7 years experience in tion. Working with the MIO Director, sportswear seeks assistant spec tech vidual w/strong organizational skills. production that includes sourcing and you will help develop short and long- Better Import Dress Co. seeks aggres- Domestic/Import cut-n-sew tops/bottoms Looking for someone with 2-3 years designer. The right candidate must sive Sales Exec to handle Int’l. Accts.; Mfr. seeks exp’d. Salesperson. Contacts a costing experience as well as a full term goals for the department and mer- have minimum 2 years experience and exp in cutting tickets, linesheets and understanding of the production proc- chant organization; manage executives Strong in specialty stores w/current acct. must. Salary open. Please Fax resume showroom samples. AS 400 exp a plus. knowledge of patternmaking and gar- list. Must be multi-lingual: English, in confidence to Donny at: 212-354-7921 ess. Tee-shirt experience would be and staff; as well as ensure data integri- ment construction. Knowledge of We offer excellent benefits package. aplus. Must be very detail-oriented ty for the merchants and store Portuguese, Spanish, Italian (French is Please send resume with salary req to Excel a must. a +). Fax: 212-719-0109 with excellent follow-up and communi- operations. Please fax resume with salary [email protected] or fax to 973-249-8651 cation skills. Junior Sleepwear Sales EOE/MF/V/D requirements to 212-564-5201 Attn: DA In addition to high visibility, unlimited Specifically, you will support mer- Account Executive/ Junior sleepwear co. seeking aggres- growth opportunities and an environ- chant, vendor and store operations in sive, motivated, exp’d salesperson with Production Assistant ment that encourages individuality, we all aspects of UPC/EDI as you propose SPEC TECH strong communication and follow up Importer seeks production asst with strategies to improve efficiency; per- Private label Sportswear Co. seeks an Director of Sales skills. Account following a plus. offer competitive compensation and a Fast growing, high end skincare co. min 3 years experience. Should be comprehensive benefits program. EOE. form analyses to highlight trends experienced individual to prepare and Please fax resume: 212 719-0338 organized, detail oriented and able to (statistical reports) and profitability; write spec sheets and technical packs located in SoHo is looking for a dynamic, prepare spec sheets, develop purchase Interested, qualified candidates may roll out new software and/or technolo- for domestic and overseas production. bright and self starting individual to orders, track/follow up production submit their resume which must gy and train merchants on new Responsibilities include costing, spec’ing join our team as Account Executive/ NEW YORK BASED schedules and communicate with over- include salary requirements to: systems. garments and completing design speci- Director of Sales. Benefits, bonus & seas office via fax and e-mail. MS [email protected] fication sheets. Must be skilled in gar- competitive salary. Please call Cheryl ACCOUNT MANAGER Word & Excel knowledge a must. Ideal candidate must be a detail- ment construction and sewing techniques. Smith at: (646) 613-1600 ext. 118 Private label company seeks Account Technical garment knowledge a plus. Fax: 212-760-0155 oriented team player with BA/BS de- Computer literate, knowledge of Style Manager to work specifically with a Fax resume to: 212-465-1257 Please insert CODE PM gree; strong interpersonal, communica- Master helpful. Import experience a plus. leading retailer of casual apparel for in subject line tion and PC skills (Windows, Word, & Fax resume to Arlene Kraus 718-937-5812 Account Executive young men and women. Experience in Production Assistant Excel); prior managerial experience or email:[email protected] denim and imported casual sportswear and knowledge of EDI . Ability to GM Design Group, a NYC based manu- amust. Minimum 3-5 years experi- Leading intimate apparel importer Production Person facturer of women’s better to bridge seeks an experienced production assis- adapt quickly to changing priorities re- ence. Some travel required. Please fax Min. 3 years experience with knowl- SWEATER/KNITS sportswear, and home of the Garfield resume to Sarah @ 212-358-1491. tant. Responsibilities include purchase edge of Chinese language for domestic quired; macro knowledge and retail experience preferred. •Technical Designer-Knitwear $60-75K and Marks and Womyn labels, seeks order entry and heavy communication and import. Great opportunity. •Prod’n Coordinator Womens $40-60K an Account Executive to work in our with overseas factories. Must be Fax 212-382-3623 •TD Sweater Better Womens $65-70K Department Store Group, reporting to computer proficient. Knowledge and Weoffer an attractive salary, and excel- OTB - "One Tuff Babe" lent benefits package and employee •Spec Tech Sweaters Womens $45-50K the Sales Manager. Candidates should understanding of garments, fabrics, [email protected]; Call: 212-947-3400 be highly motivated, have 1-3 years Seeks Sales Exec for Jeanswear. Must and retail customers is preferred. Solid discount at all Federated stores. Please have strong Dept/Specialty Store con- Production/Sourcing Mgr. mail or fax resume with salary history, experience selling women’s better to Co. w/ growth potential and excellent Fast-paced, est’d. Legwear Co. seeks bridge product to higher end depart- tacts in Girls 7-16. Please fax resume benefits. Fax resume to: 212-685-3534 in confidence, to: Bloomingdale’s, Ex- to: 917-342-9001, Attn: Jerry an individual to manage all facets of ecutive Placement - NC, 1000 Third Tech Design ment stores, strong communication PRODUCTION ASSISTANT; Seeking branded & private label domestic and Avenue, 3rd Floor, New York, NY Fast paced Men’s Wear Mfr. seeks Chinese skills and solid PC and analytical exp’d. & organized person to handle international production. Responsibilities 10022; FAX: (212) 705-2399. We will con- bilingual individual w/excellent communi- skills. We offer a competitive salary production follow-up from inception. include: coordinating packaging, placing tact only those candidates selected for cation &follow up skills, full knowledge and comprehensive benefits package. Private Label Sales IMPORT ASSISTANT; Smart with orders, managing delivery needs, as further consideration. EOE M/F/D/V. of garment construction, sketching, spec Excellent opportunity for a motivated clothing industry. Experience with well as necessary pre-production sample sheets & grading to create Tech Packs. Please forward your resume with sales professional to develop a big busi- & color corrections. Candidate must be Must be proficient in Photoshop & Illustra- banking & factoring req’d. www.bloomingdalesjobs.com salary requirements via ness. Established Sportswear/Sweater E-mail: [email protected] an energetic team player who is detail tor. Pattern making skill a plus. Salary fax (732) 225-0425 or by Co with own factories is looking for a oriented with excellent communication commensurate with experience. Please e-mail to [email protected] self-starter w/ established private label PRODUCTION ASST skills. 3-5 years related experience. Fax resume to: 212-268-9404 account base & experience to do vol- Legwear experience a plus. Please Fax ume. Pls fax your resume: 917-510-9778 Sleepwear mfr seeks org’d, detail- or E-mail all resumes to: oriented indiv. to process cutting 212-764-3475 / [email protected] TECHNICAL DESIGNER tickets, specs. 4 yrs exp. Must be High volume childrenswear co seeks a Est’d. Mfr., with knitting mills both over- very computer literate. Long Island loc. TD who can follow thru w/ fit approval seas and in the USA, has an excellent Sales Assistant Product Manager $70-$95K RETAIL POSITIONS NATIONWIDE process. Patternmaking, fitting, meas- Excellent opportunity for an entry Fax resume and sal reqs to: Missy, moderate/better sportswear opportunity for a motivated, assertive 516-505-1370 Planning Manager to $125K uring & garment construction needed. Sales Rep w/2-3 years min. experience level sales assistant to work with the Jennifer*Just Mgmt* 800-544-5878 Planners to $ 90K Min 5 yrs exp. Fax resume: VPofSales and National Sales Manager [email protected] in the Women’s Activewear Market. E-mail Production Coordinator / Buyers to $100K 212.967.8631 Attn: LS resume to: [email protected] for branded items. Work on 2 major Dept Store Mgr/South FL to $100K trade shows. Westchester location. Fax Studio Manager QC Inspector/Production Send Resumes to [email protected] Technical Designer resume: Ralph Heidings 914-937-0600 Established apparel Co. seeks responsi- Or call 954-351-1112 Women’s jacket Tech Designer needed. Intimate Apparel KEANAN DUFFTY ble individual for phases of garment Promotional sleepwear/loungewear co. Seeking organized, assertive person 5-10 Yrs Exp. $80K-$110K. E-mail Re- inspection through to writing QC sume to: [email protected]. seeks an experienced aggressive Sales Assistant with 2-5 years experience to oversee reports. Must have excellent oral, individual with an active account base. Major Children’s Wear company seeks in-house production for hip, m/w wear written and computer skills, work in Excellent compensation package. Let’s extremely motivated, detail-oriented label. Must have garment/fabric knowl- Ridgefield, NJ warehouse and NYC Sales Executive Technical Sweater Designer Talk. Fax 212-779-7688 individual to follow up on major ac- edge + computer skills. NO CALLS. showroom. Friendly environment/ Estd imp co seeks aggresv/exp’d exec Major apparel company seeks 5 yr. counts. Must have experience in all as- E-mail resume: [email protected] benefits. Fax resume 212-768-7773, to sell lower moderate price jr / missy/ minimum experience in technical pects of Wal-Mart/Retail Link. Knowledge E-mail [email protected] plus sizes spstswr. Must hv strong spe- design. Full fashion sweater. Must of JC Penney/Vision and Kmart / Work- cialty stores followup & current con- Jr. Sportswear have knowledge of importing sweaters, Growing Company is Looking for an bench a plus. Candidate must be computer tact lists. Excellent sal/comm/benefits. technical design & yarn a must. Junior/ literate- excel, word and outlook a must. Great opportunity. Pls fax resume. Experienced Salesperson. Quality Control Contemporary experience a plus. Fax: 718-998-4112 Please email resume to: NYC Garment Shops. Flexible P/T. Attn. President (212) 840-2796 Please fax resume to: (212) 575-8141 [email protected] Fax 201-871-1891 Production/Design Asst E-mail: [email protected] TEXTILE DESIGN/ CAD Jr/Young Contemporary Contemporary sportswear collection, SAMPLEMAKER - NJ: Major Textile Fast paced Textile co. seeks exp’d Fast growing junior and young contem- Meatpacking Dist. loc., seeks Prod’n / Company seeks experienced Sample- artist to create layout, redesign and porary co in L.A. seeks an in-house Sales Executive Design Asst. Exp in factory follow-up, RECEPTIONIST maker to sew men’s/women’s garment salesperson. Minimum 5 years experi- CA Jr & Contemp mfr seeks sales rep Receptionist for Madison Avenue colorways with dyes and gouche. Know- fitting, sketching, Photoshop and Illus- parts; preparation of sample books. Fluent ing photoshop is a+. Please fax us or ence and strong contacts with specialty based in NY. Must have rel w/major trator required. E-mail resumes: Couture Boutique. Full or Part Time. in English. Fax or E-mail resumes to: chain stores and major dept stores. accts. Pls fax res w/sal hist. Excell oppty Fax Resume to: 212-583-1715 e-mail resume attn: SK 212-730-0362/ [email protected] 973-890-9644 / [email protected] [email protected] Please fax resume to (213) 749-4080 w/great bene 213-748-5599 attn: HR. WWD, WEDNESDAY, JULY 21, 2004 27 WWW.WWD.COM ARMANI VS. THE TIMES, CONT’D: Giorgio Armani wants the world to know that it wasn’t just one snarky review that MEMO PAD prompted him to pull all advertising from Changing Mind-Set of Affluent Consumer The New York Times. “It is important to understand that the philosophical difference that exists between Armani and the By Valerie Seckler spent on home luxuries. However, the well- fashion desk of The New York Times has been persistent and recurring over a heeled set shelled out 46 percent less for per- lengthy period,” a spokesman for the Milan-based designer said yesterday. “It NEW YORK — The clamor for a thrilling luxury sonal luxuries than the $26,401 expended, on av- does not relate to any one specific commentary.” The specific commentary it experience is getting louder. erage, by those who value upscale experiences does not relate to is Guy Trebay’s scathing July 4 review of Armani’s spring 2005 Fifty-nine percent of affluent Americans — most, or roughly 56 percent of those surveyed. men’s collection. Not one to mince words, Trebay wrote that Armani’s recent those with annual household income north of It was surprising, Danziger said, to find that 59 shows have been “errant, confounding and stuck in a vision of an unrecognizable $99,999 — get the greatest personal satisfaction percent of those surveyed get the biggest kick out from luxury experiences such as traveling, dining, of a luxury experience rather than a top-flight world.” A week later, Armani Group ran a double-page spread in The Times that entertainment, and attending sporting events, product. “Today’s bragging rights are about trav- served as a rebuttal of sorts, and this week the company said it had canceled while 21 percent find it through acquiring person- eling to far-flung destinations like Vietnam,” she future advertising in the paper (although not in Times-owned magazines). Calls to al luxuries such as apparel, accessories, jewelry related. “It’s not a status-symbol mentality.” Bill Keller, The Times’ executive editor, and Janet Robinson, the paper’s chief and automobiles. Twenty percent enjoy the most Fueling the quest for thrilling experiences, operating officer and executive vice president, were not returned Tuesday. The pleasure from home-related luxuries, according said the luxury specialist, is the basic reality Armani spokesman, meanwhile, noted that the designer does not intend to bar to findings in the American Express Platinum that the more money people have, the more Times fashion writers from upcoming shows. — Alessandra Ilari Luxury Survey, slated to be released today. things they tend to have — and the more in- The snapshot of affluent consumers suggests a clined they are to seek happiness beyond the REGIME CHANGE AT REDBOOK: Another six months of newsstand freefall has put reversal from the shameless status-seeking of the satisfaction they derive from the products they the kibosh on Ellen Kunes’ tenure at Redbook. Hearst Magazines president Eighties to a post-9/11 era in which affluent peo- purchase. For example, 88 percent of partici- Cathleen Black named a new editor in chief for the title yesterday: Stacy Morrison, ple get the biggest charge from varied experi- pants in the May study said they had enjoyed a former executive editor of Marie Claire. Kunes, who had been editor in chief since ences. “The mind-set of affluent consumers in the luxury experience in the past 12 months, com- 2001, has been assigned a new role in Hearst’s magazine development unit. Eighties was about ‘I need to wear the right brand pared with 71 percent of those who acquired a of the right apparel; I need to live in the right home luxury in that period and 67 percent who Kunes moved to Redbook after serving as launch editor of the instantly house,’” noted Pamela N. Danziger, president of purchased a personal luxury. successful O, The Oprah Magazine, but her luck didn’t hold out. Last year, she Stevens, Pa.-based Unity Marketing, who conduct- Three key drivers motivated affluents who alienated two of Hollywood’s biggest stars when Redbook ran covers featuring ed the study in May for American Express. said they value experiences the most: 56 percent badly doctored photos of Jennifer Aniston and Julia Roberts. Newsstand sales were “Today, many get their thrills from the least ex- cited enjoyment or pleasure; 41 percent men- off 20 percent in the second half of the year, averaging 459,532, and the pensive things — the luxury of more time, more tioned having time for important things in life magazine will report another double-digit decline for first-half 2004, according to space, sharing an experience with a loved one.” and 41 percent noted reducing stress. a Hearst spokeswoman. Earlier this month, WWD reported that Morrison, who has As a result, spending for personal luxuries The research comprises a quantitative study been freelancing at Family Circle since leaving Marie Claire last April, was in like fashion among affluent individuals amount- of 900 consumers with household incomes of talks for the Redbook job. She has been an editor in chief twice before: at ed to $14,270, on average, in the 12 months prior $100,000 and up, who bought or enjoyed an ex- Modern Bride, from 1998 to 2000, and at One, a San Francisco design to the survey, or 42 percent more than the periential, personal or home luxury in the past magazine that launched in December 2000, only to quickly fold. — Jeff Bercovici $10,060 expended by affluent Americans on ex- 12 months. The average household income of periences and 16 percent more than the $12,300 those surveyed was $175,000.

SALES PRO’S NEEDED 2½year old expanding Moderate Sweater &KnitCo.seeks Professional Salesperson with 5-10 years experience; Also seasoned As today’s contemporary leader we provide an excellent Salesperson for better sweaters with opportunity to join one of the nation’s premiere design hous- Federated-May Co. contacts. Please Fax DENIM es. We continue to seek talented individuals to join our ex- resume attention Fred at: 212-354-5335 L.A. based contemporary denim line seeks panding sales team. Sales Rep w/hip NY showroom to repre- RETAIL SALES ASSOCIATE sent the East Coast Territory. Commission flexible & negotiable. E-mail resume to: Senior Account Executive Sales Rep Needed How would you like to work for one of the most prestigious jewelers in the world? [email protected] NFL, Colleges, Ladies’/Men’s Sportswear, *Minimum 3 years wholesale sales exp with major store sales Fleece, closeout & discount merchandise. Van Cleef & Arpels has several positions available in our *Experience with major store sales to include sales planning Seeking exp’d. Salesperson w/contacts to Chicago, Bal Harbour, Beverly Hills, and South Coast Plaza Leading Canadian Knit Co. *Solid understanding of retail math regional & small chain stores to move Boutiques for top-notch Sales Professionals. Specializing in rib, jersey, terry fleece, *Experience working with major/branded companies highly continuous merchandise. E-mail resume: jersey lycra, rib lycra, and other basics [email protected] The ideal candidates will have a minimum of 4 years (at very competitive prices), seeks a desired well connected Sales Agent in the Mid- experience in a luxury retail environment. You must have west and NY surrounding areas. Please Sales! Sales! Sales! $$$$ strong relations with the community and a proven ability to Fax resumes to: 514-620-2319 Many positions available for exp’d Account Executive Salespeople in Accessories & Ladies sell high-end jewelry. *1-3 years wholesale sales exp with specialty store sales Apparel firms. Must have contacts Bilingual Spanish skills a must for Bal Harbour. We offer an Salesperson with Dept & Specialty stores. Career attractive compensation package plus comprehensive benefits $$ HIGH COMMISSION $$ opportunities, great bnfts! Contact Well established, overseas manufacturer Qualified candidates email/fax attn: Cindi: 212-947-3399 x16, Fax: 201-894- [email protected] / 212.764.6912 plan. Fax or E-mail resume & salary requirements to: specializing in mens and womens out- 1186 or email: [email protected] wear and jackets is seeking reps with KARLYN FASHION RECRUITERS 212-265-5858 / [email protected] est. various client base. All territories. Send resumes to [email protected] Sharon G Shadowline Lingerie Seeking Professional Sales Exec working Handbags & Accessories out of NY showroom to develop Key Offering Tremendous Opportunities Northeast & Midwest Accts. Must have Boutique Asst Mgr SALES EXECUTIVE strong presentation, computer & commu- Japanese cult design label seeks Asst for Key Sales Executives Leading manufacturer & retailer of nication skills, an expertise in Women’s Mgr. Should understand the niche, Ladies’ & Men’s Cashmere Knitwear, Sleepwear/Daywear, and a solid Dept. & high-end & independent fashion mar- Accessories & Home Collections seeks SALES EXECUTIVE Fax resume to: 212-631-0087 Specialty Store following. Fax or E-mail : ket, have great comm. skills, under- Leading French Designer seeks moti- motivated sales professional, experi- 828-437-8900 / [email protected] stand / convey brand image and be a enced in better branded and private vated, energetic, exp’d sales professio- team player w/ a personal style. Good nal for its Soho Flagship Store. Excel- label knitwear sales. Should have client book a plus. Tribeca Location. established relationships with better lent growth potential. Salary + Comm. Fax resume: 212-431-4394 or E-mail: Fax resume to: (212) 625-0553 specialty stores and department SHOWROOM SALES MGR/PERSON [email protected] SALES stores, plus drive, ability and the per- Textile Service Art Studio sonality to maintain & develop our 2 positions FIT MODEL seeking motivated individual growing business. Should have an indi- Fast paced, growing, multi-line showroom Experienced and Modern Plus Size vidual sense of style and fashion, & a seeks aggressive and energetic Manager fit model, extensive industry knowl- w/sales exp. in hand art and good knowledge of the luxury, designer, and Salesperson to sell it’s hot, trendy edge, great younger body at 5’6.5" tall, CAD. Growth opportunity. and contemporary markets. Full bene- lines. Must have 2-5 years exp, strong re- 46" bust, 37" waist, 47.5" hip. Call fits + 401K package. Fax resume, cover lationships w/ department & speciality Danielle @ The Fitting Room to obtain Sal+comm+benefits. stores in contemporary market. Dynamic Please send resume to: letter and salary history to 212-391-8188 specs and comp card on Suzanne or E-mail [email protected] working environment, fun people. Salary Donovan 212-290-7600. Fax: 212-947-4501 +commission. If you have what it takes, we want to hear from you! Email: [email protected] SALESPERSON WANTED Fax resumes to 212-382-1021 Well established hosiery & intimate apparel importer based in NYC, looking for individual w/contacts to Major Jr. Sportswear Co. mass merchants & discounters. Also Sportswear Salesperson looking for salesperson for our new Bernardo Fashions, a leader in better Seeking Sales Manager w/minimum division of fashion slippers & flip flops. ladies’ and men’s outerwear for over 20 10 years experience & proven track Please fax resume to: 212-239-1448 years is seeking an experienced salesperson for our highly successful, fast- record to continue building our growing related sportswear division. growing business. We are fully ver- SALESPERSON This is a great opportunity for a highly tical, both in Knits & Sweaters, with Well established mfr. in China work- motivated individual. The ideal candi- ing w/ major brand in sweater & date will have 5+ years experience in sourcing offices in 10 countries wovens seeks NY based Salesperson sportswear sales. You will also possess Six figure salary + benefits. Please who has contacts w/ import co. Good strong current retail contacts in the 212-563-4262 comm. PT, OK. Fax: (212) 869-1113 or better sportswear market. Fax resume Fax resume to: Email: [email protected] to: Attention Sportswear 212-594-3999. Fortunes, Fashion and Financing ILLUSTRATION BY MATT COLLINS MATT BY ILLUSTRATION WWD Business Review Section II: August 16 Close: August 2

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