PRADA’S DEBT PLAN/2 GAP CEDES GERMANY TO H&M/2 WWWDomen’s Wear Daily • The Retailers’FRIDAY Daily Newspaper • February 6, 2004 • $2.00 Beauty

Black Magic NEW YORK — Carolina Herrera is out to prove that men can be every bit as stylish as women with Chic for Men, her third men’s scent. The fragrance, which also borrowed inspiration from the simplicity of classic black-and-white photography, will roll out in Saks Fifth Avenue doors at the end of this month, and enter the rest of its 200-door distribution in September. It could do $3.5 million at retail in its first year. For more, see page 13.

Luxury on a Roll: Double-Digit Gains for Third Straight Month By Jennifer Weitzman arrival of new spring lines. Chilly Comparable-Store Sales Index and Ross Tucker weather and gift-card redemptions came in with a 5.9 percent increase

BY BRYN KENNY NEW YORK — Luxury’s momentum also drove traffic. for the month, its highest gain since continued in January while In turn, retailers reported strong September 2003 when it also consumers were also lured into comparable-store gains. The showed a 5.9 percent increase. stores by clearance sales and the Goldman Sachs Retail Composite See Strong, Page 20 PHOTO BY GEORGE CHINSEE; STYLED 2 WWD, FRIDAY, FEBRUARY 6, 2004 WWDFRIDAY Prada Plans to Halve Debt Beauty

By Courtney Colavita Patrizio lion euro, or $82 million, tax re- Patrizio bate from the Italian government BEAUTY Bertelli MILAN — This may or may not Bertelli would enable Prada to cut its Coty Beauty is hoping for back-to-back hits with the launch of a second be the year of Prada’s long- debt to 290 million euros, or 12 Celine Dion fragrance this spring called Celine Dion Parfum Notes. mooted initial public offering, $365.9 million, by yearend. There’s a new man joining the Carolina Herrera fragrance franchise this but Prada chief Patrizio Bertelli Meanwhile, there’s the contin- 13 spring — Chic for Men, the designer’s third men’s scent. is nonetheless forecasting a uing question mark around major decline in his group’s net Prada’s expected public offering. New Jersey residents got a taste of new decor and merchandising debt. And he doesn’t plan to sell After postponing an IPO three 15 strategies at Wal-Mart with the opening of three stores there last week. all of his brands to do it. times, Bertelli recently hinted at After chipping away at its the Jil Sander men’s fall-winter debt over the past two years, the 2004 show here that this year may GENERAL company said it expects to halve still prove difficult for a listing. A perfect storm of clearance sales, chilly weather and gift cards drove it to 290 million euros, or $365.9 “Parmalat certainly hasn’t 1 January shopping, leading to same-store sales that beat expectations. million at current exchange, by helped the situation,” Bertelli The Gap is saying auf Wiedersehen to the German market, selling its 10 yearend. Prada, which also owns said, referring to the huge corpo- 2 unprofitable stores to fast-fashion behemoth Hennes & Mauritz. such companies as Jil Sander rate accounting scandal at the and Helmut Lang, has been dili- Italian dairy giant. He declined Continuing to prepare for its acquisition of DuPont’s Invista business, Koch gent in cutting its debt, which to give further details on the 17 Industries tapped three executives for the post-deal management team. stood at 950 million euros, or 90 million euros, or $113.6 million, exact timing of the planned IPO, Diamond profits and prices are on the rise at De Beers, which saw net $1.19 billion, at the end of 2002, a more this year when it sells an 80 but a company spokesman said earnings rise 10.25 percent to $484 million in the fourth quarter. result of its acquisition spree in percent stake in its new Epi- the IPO is expected by the sec- 22 the late Nineties. center store in Tokyo’s Aoyama ond half of this year or in the be- Although its debt-reduction district, the company said. Prada ginning of 2005. SUZY strategy had originally focused will control the balance and begin As reported, Prada has 700 Playing Princess Margaret…Nancy Sinatra’s Boots…From Russia to on an IPO, Prada was forced to to pay rent on the unit. million euros, or $883.2 million, Seville. come up with other initiatives Opened last summer, Bertelli of convertible bonds that expire 4 after it repeatedly postponed a at the time touted the Herzog & in June 2005. They must be paid Classified Advertisements...... 23 stock market listing because of de Meuron designed Tokyo space back if the company hasn’t listed To e-mail reporters and editors at WWD, the address is poor market conditions. Last as the largest single investment on the stock exchange by then. [email protected], using the individual's name. year, it sold a 55 percent stake in by an Italian company in Japan Prada is expected to release WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY IS A REGISTERED TRADEMARK OF FAIRCHILD PUBLICATIONS, INC. COPYRIGHT ©2004 footwear company Church’s to since the end of World War II. its 2003 results next month. As re- FAIRCHILD PUBLICATIONS, INC. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. PRINTED IN THE U.S.A. Swiss Equinox Investment and While a Prada spokesman de- ported, the company said it ex- VOLUME 187, NO. 25. WWD (ISSN # 0149-5380) is published daily except Saturdays, Sundays and holidays, with one additional entered into a joint real estate clined to elaborate on other pects Prada Group’s revenues to issue in January, May, June and November; two additional issues in February, March, April, September, October and December; and three additional issues in August, by Fairchild Publications, Inc., a subsidiary of Advance Publications, Inc. PRINCIPAL OFFICE: 7 spin-off venture with Aedes SpA. planned real estate sales, he said be in line with the 2002 figure of West 34th Street, New York, NY 10001. Shared Services provided by Advance Magazine Publishers Inc.: S.I. Newhouse, Jr., Prada’s joint venture with that the 28,000-square-foot space 1.5 billion euros, or $1.89 billion. Chairman; Charles H. Townsend, C.O.O.; John W. Bellando, Executive Vice-President and C.F.O.; Jill Bright, Executive Vice- Aedes SpA, Real Estate Inter- is just “one of the upcoming real Net profits, which Bertelli origi- President_Human Resources; John Buese, Executive Vice-President_ Chief Information Officer; David Orlin, Senior Vice- national Srl, acquired a number estate spin-offs scheduled for nally said would rise 85 percent, President_Strategic Sourcing; Robert Bennis, Senior Vice-President_Real Estate; David B. Chemidlin, Senior Vice-President_General of Prada-owned real estate as- this year.” are now expected to increase 30 Manager, Advance Magazine Group Shared Services Center. Periodicals postage paid at New York, NY and at additional mailing offices. Canada Post Publications Mail Agreement No. 40032712. Canadian Goods and Services Tax Registration No. 88654-9096- sets last year for 120 million In addition to the Epicenter’s percent to 35.1 million euros, or RM0001. Canada post return undeliverable Canadian addresses to: P.O. Box 1632, Station A, Windsor, ON N9A7C9. euros, or $151.4 million, as previ- sale, the company said an 85 mil- $44.2 million, from 27 million POSTMASTER: SEND ADDRESS CHANGES TO WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY, P.O. Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA 91615-5008. ously noted. lion euro, or $107.2 million, in- euros, or $34.1 million, in 2002, FOR SUBSCRIPTIONS, ADDRESS CHANGES, ADJUSTMENTS, OR BACK ISSUE INQUIRIES: Please write to WOMEN’S WEAR Prada is expected to net about ventory reduction and a 65 mil- according to a spokesman. DAILY, P.O. Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA 91615-5008; Call 800-289-0273; or visit www.subnow.com/wd . Four weeks is required for change of address. Please give both new and old address as printed on most recent label. First copy of new subscription will be mailed within four weeks after receipt of order. Address all editorial, business, and production correspondence to WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY, 7 West 34th Street, New York, NY 10001. For permissions and reprint requests, please call 212-221-9595 or fax requests to 212-221-9195. Visit us online: www.wwd.com. To subscribe to other Fairchild magazines on the World Wide Web, visit www.fairchildpub.com. Occasionally, we make our subscriber list available to carefully screened companies that offer products and services that we believe would interest our readers. If you do not want to receive Peter Williams these offers and/or information, please advise us at P.O. Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA 91615-5008 or call 800-289-0273. Gap’s German Bow: WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY IS NOT RESPONSIBLE FOR LOSS, DAMAGE, OR ANY OTHER INJURY TO UNSOLICITED MANUSCRIPTS, UNSOLICITED ART WORK (INCLUDING, BUT NOT LIMITED TO, DRAWINGS, PHOTOGRAPHS, AND TRANSPARENCIES), OR ANY OTHER UNSOLICITED MATERIALS. THOSE SUBMITTING MANUSCRIPTS, PHOTOGRAPHS, ART Exits Selfridges, WORK, OR OTHER MATERIALS FOR CONSIDERATION SHOULD NOT SEND ORIGINALS, UNLESS SPECIFICALLY REQUESTED TO DO SO BY WWD IN WRITING. MANUSCRIPTS, PHOTOGRAPHS, AND OTHER MATERIALS SUBMITTED MUST BE Sells Stores to H&M ACCOMPANIED BY A SELF-ADDRESSED OVERNIGHT-DELIVERY RETURN ENVELOPE, POSTAGE PREPAID. By Miles Socha would “reallocate our resources Kelly Appointed to optimize growth in our other PARIS — Gap Inc. is saying auf existing markets and longer-term By Samantha Conti wiedersehen to the German mar- opportunities in new markets.” In Brief ket, selling its 10 unprofitable Last November, Gap appoint- LONDON — Six months after pur- stores to fast-fashion behemoth ed Andrew Rolfe as the president chasing Selfridges & Co., Galen ● HOWARD EXITS LIZ: Todd Howard, group president at Liz Hennes & Mauritz, which has al- of its Gap International division Weston is making his mark. Claiborne Inc., has left the company. He joined the vendor’s ready gobbled up a 3.5 percent and said it was considering alter- Weston announced Thursday ranks in September and oversaw women’s DKNY Jeans, Junior & share of that country’s apparel native growth avenues abroad, in- that Peter Williams, who re- Active, City DKNY, Kenneth Cole New York and Reaction, Lucky market with its 239 locations. cluding joint ventures, franchis- placed Vittorio Radice as Self- Brand and the new better line, Realities. Executive vice presi- H&M said it would convert the ing, in-store shops and licensing. ridges’ chief executive less than dent Angela Ahrendts will now oversee those brands directly, re- units, ranging in size from 3,200 Retail analysts said they were a year ago, has resigned from assuming some of the responsibilities she held before Howard’s to 18,300 square feet, starting not surprised to see Gap march the company. He will be suc- position was created. A spokeswoman said of Howard: “He elect- Aug. 1, and also add 10 to 15 new its khakis and T-shirts out of ceeded by one of Weston’s long- ed to leave the company to pursue other interests and we wish locations in Germany, its largest Germany. “Their prices are too time deputies, Paul Kelly, cur- him well.” Prior to working at Claiborne, Howard was president market, out of a total rollout plan high,” said Sagra Maceira de rently managing director of of men’s jeans, kids’ and juniors’ at Tommy Hilfiger Corp. of 140 stores for the year. Rosen at J.P. Morgan in London. Brown Thomas in Ireland. Kelly Gap Inc. said it would take a “The German consumer is very has also been promoted to chief ● KENZER RESTRUCTURES: Kenzer Corp., a New York-based $13 million charge in the fourth price-oriented.” executive at Brown Thomas. executive search firm that emerged from Chapter 11 bankruptcy quarter ended Jan. 31, but that it Kimberly Greenberger, soft Kelly, who has worked with proceedings on Nov. 13, has downsized its workforce, closed five would otherwise maintain its in- lines analyst at Lehman Bros. in Weston since 1984, had been branch offices and is focusing its efforts on three industries: re- ternational presence. Gap oper- New York, said she viewed the managing director of the Irish tail, hard goods manufacturers and wholesale distributors. ates 236 stores in the U.K., 55 in Gap’s problems in Germany as a specialty store for 10 years. “He Founded in 1973, Kenzer has slashed its payroll to 13 sales asso- France, 187 in Canada and 158 in “country-specific” given the re- has done a tremendous job ciates from 33, consolidated its management ranks to one vice Japan. International sales at the tailer’s successes in other inter- through a period of substantial president from five and has relocated sales associates to work San Francisco-based company national markets. growth to build Brown Thomas from their homes. Bob Daughton, an operations and finance vet- totaled $1.4 billion for the year- Although the firm has given no into the premiere fashion retail- eran of such retailers as Pamida, Younkers and Circuit City, to-date ending Nov. 1 out of total indications of its next frontier, er in Ireland,” Weston said in joined Kenzer on Monday as an associate based in New York. company sales of $11 billion in Greenberger said she could see the statement Thursday. Kenzer has closed its offices in Atlanta, Dallas, Minneapolis, the same period. Gap expanding in Europe, specif- Weston also applauded Will- Chicago and Cleveland, said the search firm’s chairman, Robert Gap declined to disclose its ically Spain, as well as in South iamsfor smoothing the transi- Kenzer, and is no longer allowing associates to draw funds losses in Germany, where it has America and Asia. tion of Selfridges from a public against anticipated sales commissions. operated since 1996, but a spokes- Meanwhile, H&M said the to a private company. woman acknowledged its busi- takeover of Gap’s German opera- Industry sources said Will- ness model did not generate ade- tions, including its employees, iams’ departure was no surprise. quate returns. The retailer also would not affect its balance sheet. “Weston sees a lot of opportuni- had to mark down prices to com- However, Carl-Henric Enhorn- ties for back-office strategies be- Correction pete and had problems coming up ing, head of H&M’s investor rela- tween Selfridges and Brown Oscar de la Renta’s new moderate O Oscar line, produced under with the right product offering in tions, said the move reflects the Thomas, in human resources, in- license by Kellwood Co., will launch in 600 to 700 stores for fall. terms of fit, style and sizing. importance of the German mar- formation technology and fi- The existing Oscar by Oscar de la Renta bridge line is distrib- Paul Pressler, Gap chief exec- ket, which last year accounted nance. He clearly wanted his uted in slightly more than 60 stores. This was unclear in a story utive officer and president, said for 29 percent of its total volume trusted lieutenant by his side,” starting on page one, Thursday. in a statement that the company Continued on page 17 Continued on page 22 ©2004 Elizabeth Arden, Inc. ©2004 Elizabeth Arden, Based on 4 weeks of consumer testing. *

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in Washington, he was pleased as punch laced with vodka and said so in exquisitely spoken Russian. Not so surprising when one realizes there is old imperial blood in his family. After all, he is related to Czar Nicholas II through his grandmother, who was born Grand Duchess Helen Vladimirovna of Russia. But you knew that. The Phillips Collection has the most glorious private music salon and that night a group of very select guests heard Russian music at its best. Surrounded by Picasso and Braque and Klee paintings, the audience was in rapture. You could have heard a snowflake fall. You couldn’t say that later when everyone exhaled double time at Ann and Bill Nitze’s elegant little dinner in that art-filled Georgetown place. But then it’s not easy for the D.C. glitterati to be quiet, especially during Washington’s fifth season, the political Inés Sastre season. The orchestra performed at Carnegie Hall on Tuesday and on Monday the Prince attended a reception Suzy given by the Spanish By Aileen Mehle Ambassador to the United States, Inocencio Arias, at his Notes From Over There: Elizabeth Hurley U.N. residence to welcome the wants to play Princess Margaret in a Mayor of Seville, Alfredo television dramatization of the lovely star- Sanchez Monteserin. The eye® crossed princess’ life. Margaret died in mayor was in town to February 2002. Elizabeth is not the only Elizabeth Hurley announce Seville’s first one who wants the role — the competition is stiff. international music festival, Joanne Whalley, who played Scarlett O’Hara in the 1994 which will be held in Seville, miniseries “Scarlett,” and Jackie in “Jackie Bouvier for me and no respect for the music. It’s a naturalmente, from Sept. 2-12 Kennedy Onassis,” the 2000 miniseries, is among the good thing I wasn’t there for the taping. I featuring nine outdoor dear ladies clamoring to play the part. might have screamed.” How does that lyric go performances of Bizet’s The Princess Margaret story promises to deal fairly again? “One of these days, these boots are “Carmen” in three different and frankly with her early love affair with war hero going to walk all over you”? historical locations around the Capt. Peter Townsend; her marriage to and divorce ● Guadalquivir River, where the from famous photographer Tony Armstrong Jones, Lord Lauren Bush, Amanda Hearst, Elizabeth story was set in the 1820s. Snowden, and her subsequent romance with much Kieselstein-Cord and Tinsley Mortimer will These extravagant

younger Roddy Llewelyn and their romps on the Isle of give a dinner in honor of Jennifer Nicholson, Y WIREIMAGE performances, budgeted at $23 Mustique. Producers asked 73-year-old Lord Snowden, Jack’s daughter, after her show in the Bryant million, will be directed by who has maybe the best sense of humor in the whole Park Tents on Feb. 11. The party will be at famed Spanish film director U.K. and parts beyond, which actor he thought could Sette in Chelsea followed by more socializing Carlos Saura with maestro best play him. He said that Hugh Grant was “too old” and what not next door at the hot new lounge Lorin Maazel as conductor and and Ralph Fiennes was “too tall,” but that Joseph Viscaya. Matthew David and Bentley Meeker such superstars as Angela Fiennes or Colin Firth might do. Then he added, with a are set to create a Moroccan atmosphere as Nancy Gheorghiu, Olga Borodina and twinkle in his eye, “Why not me? I can look quite young Jennifer is calling her collection “A Magic Sinatra Neil Shicoff singing the roles of with makeup.” Dear, dear Tony. Carpet Ride” featuring sexy party clothes with AND SASTRE PHOTOS B SINATRA the all-mixed up lovers. The ● a vintage flair all inspired by Barbara Eden’s TV series performances are being produced by Michael Ecker, the Matt and Ben are talking about rendezvousing on the “I Dream of Jeannie.” impressario who created the memorable “Turandot” in stage in London in a play yet to be determined. How Jennifer will also show a line of couture gowns the forbidden city of Beijing in 1998 and collaborated on about “La Cage Aux Folles.” which is already casting perfect for the Oscars, accentuated with rare diamonds the production of “Aida” at the Temple of Luxor in about for leads in a planned revival on Broadway? Oh, and Baroque pearls from Kaufmann de Suisse. Egypt and the performance of “Nabucco” in Jerusalem. ha, ha, ha, ha, ha. Jennifer’s clients Cornelia Guest, Lara Flynn Boyle, Among the guests at the Spanish ambassador’s ● Kate Hudson, Jennifer Tilly, Jessica Seinfeld and Rose residence, a 19th-century town house with reception Nancy Sinatra sounds like she might be planning a McGowan, as well as Kimberly Rockefeller, Lydia and rooms done in white and pale blue rococo stucco, to new career as a music critic. When she was asked what Gillian Hearst-Shaw, Gigi Mortimer, Annie Churchill, discuss the festival were the beautiful Spanish model she thought of Jennifer Love-Hewitt’s rendition of her Coco Brandolini, Jennifer Creel, Tiffany Dubin, Olivia and actress Inés Sastre in an eggshell dress by David 1966 signature hit “These Boots Were Made For Chantecaille and Julia Koch have all been invited to Tang, Countess Sophie Walderdorf of Salzburg in a Walking” on a recent television show, Ms. Sinatra decorate the front room. Lights, camera, action. slim, black tuxedo, Lorin Maazel, Regina Resnick, replied in a tone that sounded just like her Daddy, “She ● Carmen and Zarin Mehta and Sergei Markov, the ceo of had the wrong approach, wrong attitude, wrong When His Royal Highness Prince Michael of Kent the Russian National Orchestra. Many New Yorkers are choreographer, wrong moves and wrong hair. The only picked up a silver baton for his royal patronage of the planning to make the viaje to Seville for the festivities. thing she got right was the dress. She had no respect Russian Symphony Orchestra at the Phillips Collection So, hasta la vista babies! ed in PEOPLE Magazine May 12, 2003 d: People. Appear

“The hardest part is trying edit: Cliff Watts. AOL Keywor Watts. edit: Cliff to convince people, ‘Hey, I’m just like you.’” Halle Berry flatters us all, in PEOPLE’s 50 Most Beautiful issue egistered trademark of Time Inc. Photo Cr egistered ©2004 Time Inc. PEOPLE is a r

Radiant. Ravishing. Real. How many dimensions does real beauty have? We’re still counting. Source: MRI Fall 2003 Source: Every week, every issue, every emotion for 36 million readers. People. At the heart of every story.

8 WWD, FRIDAY, FEBRUARY 6, 2004 Fashion Scoops

CELEB WATCH: Who knew the nautical coordinates of Bryant Park? Nautica designer David Chu, duh. For its 10 a.m. show today, the company is handing out Nautica compasses so guests can make Let It Snow their way to 40° 75’ latitude and 73° 59’ longitude to find their PARIS — For his pre-fall seats. Celebrity guests like Rocco DiSpirito, Harry Connick Jr. and Anderson Cooper will presumably have to be escorted. collection for Rochas, Olivier Meanwhile, for Marc Bouwer’s return to the runways on Sunday, Theyskens took inspiration Paul Margolin, president of the company, discovered a novel way to from an exotic locale: New York attract some unexpected celebrities. After standing in line at the Chelsea branch of the U.S. Post Office to purchase a wad of stamps City after a major snowstorm. for his invitations — and settling on a dull “Snowy Egret” — Some of the foam-like fabrics Margolin on his way out spotted a poster for a series on “American sparkle like pure, freshly Filmmaking.” The poster included classic Hollywood stills that fallen snow. But Theyskens is complemented Bouwer’s red-carpet theme for fall with images of “Gone With the Wind,” Edith Head and makeup artist Jack Pierce. a realist and an edgy So he sweet-talked a postal employee to make an exchange, and designer, and his winter- finally succeeded by offering her a ticket to the show, where’s she’s wonderland cocktail party likely to run into the real Eartha Kitt and Deborah Cox. At Generra, the company is taking a prodigal-daughter approach gets soiled — albeit more to casting its Tuesday night presentation. Lizzie Jagger, Theodora elegantly than the stuff and Alexandra Richards, Lydia Hearst and Annabelle Jones are all heaped on Manhattan expected to sport Tony Melillo’s fall collection. curbsides. He does this MOUNTING OLYMPUS: Olympus Fashion Week is kicking off its title by adding tiny black sponsorship of 7th on Sixth with a broad array of programs, sequins, or layering on beginning with a ribbon-cutting by Thom Filicia, of “Queer Eye for lace or other fabrics on a the Straight Guy,” Kenneth Cole and Mayor Michael Bloomberg this mostly white base. For morning, followed by a designer party at Spice tonight. Designing prodigy Esteban Cortazar, whose show is being sponsored by the shapes, he stuck with camera company, has designed its launch T-shirts and also created now-familiar couture carrying cases for the Olympus Stylus digital camera for his runway silhouettes: vaguely show. Olympus is also a sponsor of Proenza Schouler’s show, where the designers are planning one of the oddest corporate kickbacks retro skirt suits and seen in the tents yet: Katie Couric is expected to turn up at that cocktail dresses, show to talk about the fight against colon cancer, announcing a some with tiny new partnership between Olympus and the Entertainment Industry capes with Foundation’s National Colorectal Cancer Research Alliance. undulating edges. ROBINSON’S RETURN: Patrick Robinson will present his second But he also collection for Perry Ellis today, hoping for the same accolades that showed a new followed his charming debut for spring. Meanwhile, customers appreciation for seem to have caught on to the collection’s new look, as his first deliveries have been a hit since they arrived at Henri Bendel last texture, with Friday. Seven $238 lilac trenchcoats sold out in a day, leading the tufts of fur store to reorder another three dozen this week. sprouting from CAT’S IN THE CRADLE: Henri Bendel vice president and general jackets or manager Ed Burstell is taking a page from the book of feathers Bloomingdale’s Kal Ruttenstein. The store is teaming up with trimming the Warner Bros. Consumer Products to create a windows and bustier of a merchandising concept centered around the upcoming release of “Catwoman,” with Halle Berry, on July 30. Bendel’s will carry drop-dead gown. apparel, accessories and other products inspired by the film. Think Snow White at a Goth ball. “It’s a wonderful tie-in, as the attitude of the movie is about being very independent, empowered and sexy at the same time,” Burstell said. The tie-in comes between the busy spring and fall seasons, and Burstell is hoping for some movie momentum to carry through into fall. “It’s the time when you want to get some new goods in,” he said of the timing. Denise Di Novi, producer of “Catwoman,” called from the midst of shooting an action sequence in Vancouver to spill a few beans about the look of Halle Berry’s take on the superhero, created by costume designer Angus Strathie. “It’s not the traditional catsuit you’ve seen since the Fifties, but something more contemporary, more urban and sexy, but also more cat-like,” she said. “She takes a leather jacket and pants, cuts them up and reconfigures them for her Catwoman outfit. That’s why we have cat markings on the legs, like a rare Mau cat.” As for the choice to place Berry in the role, Di Novi said it was obvious: “What’s great about Halle is the reason she has an equal following among men and women, young and old, urban and nonurban, black and white. She embodies the two sides of womanhood. She’s sensitive and open, but she’s also very sexy, and comfortable with her sexuality and comfortable in her own skin.”

W Names Alexandra White NEW YORK — Alexandra man and editorial director of White has been named fash- Fairchild. “Her collabora- ion director of W magazine, tions with many of the the sister publication of WWD, world’s great photographers both owned by Fairchild Pub- have resulted in some of the lications, a subsidiary of best stories we have pub- Advance Publications. lished in W.” White replaces Joe Zee, White has been a con- who has become editor in tributing fashion editor at W chief of Vitals, the new men’s since 1994. She’s worked with shopping magazine being many of the magazine’s fre- launched this fall by Details, quent photographers, among which also is owned by them Craig McDean, Bruce Fairchild Publications. Weber, Paolo Roversi and “Alex is one of the most Inez van Lamsweerde and exciting and innovative fash- Vinoodh Matadin. She also ion stylists working today,” has worked for other maga- STEPHANE FEUGERE PHOTOS BY said Patrick McCarthy, chair- zines, including Italian Vogue. WWD, FRIDAY, FEBRUARY 6, 2004 9 Tory Time

NEW YORK — Tory Burch is hardly a cookie-cutter uptown girl. She may not be clipping Harry Winston pendant earrings to her nose, but no one could accuse her of blindly following the fold. In fact, Burch is that rare socialite — a word she loathes, even if few play the boardroom-to-ball- room part better — with sharply honed individual style. “It’s an innate chic,” says her friend Samantha Boardman. “Tory’s the opposite of the contrived women you see to your left and right at dinners.” Whether she wears a Seventies Christian Dior gown in garish fuchsia, with a bow at the bosom the size of a toaster oven, or a black sheath by her beloved Narciso Rodriguez dangling over a pair of treacherous turquoise stilettos, Burch has an endearing way of using brazen clothing as a counterpoint to a delicate demeanor. And so perhaps it was inevitable that she’d be Sketches of the shop interior. the first New York social star of her generation to launch a clothing line. Tory, as it’s called, arrives in Tory Burch, center, and a gleaming Mott Street boutique of the same name her business partner, on Monday. Fiona Marin, right; “It all started about a year-and-a-half ago,” below and left, some Burch explains, her bird-like body nearly swal- of their new looks. lowed up by a plush sofa in the lime-green, swatch- strewn design studio of her palatial new apartment overlooking Central Park in the Pierre Hotel. (Burch has three young sons and is stepmother to her venture-capitalist husband Christopher’s three daughters.) “I came up with a concept that I thought was both necessary and great.” Tory is no vanity project. Long before she was a fixture in the glossies, Burch, 37, paid her dues. After graduating from the University of Pennsylvania, in her hometown of Philadelphia, she landed a job assisting the fashion designer Zoran in New York. She moved on to become a sit- tings assistant at Harper’s Bazaar, then worked in p.r. for Ralph Lauren, Vera Wang and Loewe. “I started to fall in love with fashion in college,” she says. Or just before: “My first important dress was a black tulle Saint Laurent with pink sequins that my mother bought me for the senior prom.” To create her line, Burch paired with Fiona Marin, an old friend from her days at Ralph, now based in Hong Kong. Then she retreated into books, museums, thrift stores and, not infrequently, her mother’s closet — although a few of her father’s pieces, too, have gracefully morphed into women’s wear. “My father is one of the chicest men you’ve ever seen,” she says. “He’s the kind of guy who de- cides to have his dinner jackets lined with Hermès scarves.” Burch sketched hundreds of designs, edit- ed feverishly, sourced new fabrics and hardware in China, India, Italy and Spain, and organized a team. The result is a comprehensive collection of mid- priced sportswear, swimwear, shoes, bags, jewelry — even beach towels, umbrellas and candles. Burch has managed to rein in a personal taste widely regarded as among the most opulent in New York’s younger set. Her least expensive item is a $35 cotton T-shirt with a patent-leather starburst, the most dear a $900 steel-gray, slinky dress with leather sequins inspired by the gown Lee Radziwill wore to Truman Capote’s famous Black and White Ball in the mid-Sixties. For spring, Burch offers a mix of reinterpreted staples: polos and reversible cashmere sweaters, printed shirts and grommeted, two-color loafers. There is headier fare, too: Lucite cuffs, a five-strand faux pearl necklace, crocheted shorts, caftans streaked with antique rhinestones and shagreen minaudières lined in mother-of- pearl. “The secret,” she says, “is how well it all fits. It looks great on my friends so far—of course, they’re all tall and thin.” Jennifer Creel, tallest and thinnest among them, is especially keen on Tory’s terry cloth tunics and high-heeled evening espadrilles with metallic laces. “The stuff is so clean and fresh-looking,” Creel says. “Tory knew that there was something we all wanted to wear but couldn’t find — something affordable, a little bohemian but still sophisticated, and very easy to wear.” Uptown girls, and other girls, will love it. But to have Burch as a walking advertisement won’t hurt, either. As Rodriguez puts it, “Tory dresses with grace, intelligence and, above all, exuberance. She’s the definition of a modern woman.”

—Robert Haskell TURNER DAVID PHOTOS BY 10 WWD, FRIDAY, FEBRUARY 6, 2004 Arts Liberman’s Art Direction NEW YORK — Alexander & Liberman’s career as the edi- torial director of Condé Nast People Publications has always over- shadowed his own work as an artist. While he brought art to life in the pages of Vogue — hiring artists such as Salvador Dalí, Marcel Duchamp, Jasper Johns and Robert Rauschenberg to do projects for the publication — Liberman painted his modern, minimalist art quietly for years before showing it to anyone. A one-man exhibition at the Betty Parsons Gallery in 1960 brought Liberman’s hard-edged graphic motifs to wider attention, but the show wasn’t a financial suc- cess. Gallerist Will Ameringer, who represents the artist’s estate, said, “The critical response was not bad, but you can almost read between the lines. Maybe no- body wanted to cross him.” He thinks the time is ripe for a Liberman revival, so on March 25, the Ameringer and Yohe Fine Art gallery at 20 West 57th Street will stage “Alexander Liberman: No Regrets.” The show will re-create one room of the Parsons exhibition, down to the moldings and wires used to hang the paintings in the original gallery. Ameringer even tracked down a guest who attended the Parsons show and remembered the shade of gray One of the vignettes Ameringer used on the walls. and Yohe Fine Art re-created “No Regrets” will be on view through April 24. from the Betty Parsons exhibit, Francine du Plessix Gray, the daughter of left:left: “Untitled,”“Untitled,” 1955,1955, EnamelEnamel Liberman’s wife, Tatiana, said her stepfather would be on masonite, 48 x 96 inches tickled that his paintings were being rediscovered and “Four Hundred Plus,” after nearly half a century. 1959, Acrylic on canvas, “He loved all forms of exposure and praise,” du 40 x 82 inches. Plessix Gray said in an interview. “He had a consider- able ego. You can’t get away from that.” Liberman, she said, worked on his art in an amazing people who were laughing about these dots,” du state of solitude. Will Ameringer Plessix Gray said. “My mother was a very cultivated “Those hard-edged paintings were being done in woman, from a literary point of view, whose tastes in 1949 and 1950 when they were completely against the art didn’t progress past Monet and Manet.” grain of what was being done in the United States at Yet, despite the fact that Liberman considered that time,” she said. “It was the height of abstract ex- himself an artist, not an art director, those who knew pressionism and the emotionally charged paintings of him said he would never give up his post at Condé Jackson Pollock and Franz Kline. He was doing these Nast (which, like WWD, is owned by Advance very precise, cerebral, mathematical paintings. It was Magazine Group). an amazing feat of daring. I think I was the only one Liberman, who was born in Kiev, Russia, lived his who understood them.” childhood racing from Moscow to London in 1920 to es- For “Four Hundred Plus,” painted in 1950, cape the revolution. In 1940, his family avoided the Liberman flipped poker chips onto a canvas and Nazi attack by fleeing to the unoccupied zone in marked their positions when they landed. “If they over- France. They arrived in New York a year later. lapped, he would separate them,” said Ameringer. “It “He was a true exiled child,” said his stepdaughter. was all about controlled chaos, letting another force “He had been battered too much around the world. He make the composition, but he still directed it.” needed the security of a full-time job. Perhaps he could “His close friends were Condé Nast and society take more risks with his art because he had that security.” Besides, Liberman had become accustomed to the lifestyle Condé Nast afforded him. A 10-year project to document the studios of artists such as Braque, Picasso, Chagall and Giacometti — the essays and pho- tos were published in Vogue and then collected in a book — only affirmed his attachment to comfort. Du Plessix Gray, who accompanied Liberman to Giacometti’s studio, recalled, “Alex was so outraged. Here was Giacometti already making lots of money, but he chose to live in this talismanic misery. He often said he did that book to reassure himself that this was not the life he wanted to lead.” Liberman ruled Condé Nast with an iron fist. “He was incredibly powerful,” said Ameringer. “People would line up in the hall waiting to get his ini- tials in the corner of page proofs.” He left an indelible mark on the company, hiring

OHE FINE ART OHE FINE ART Irving Penn as his assistant, bringing Richard Avedon over from Harper’s Bazaar and asking Anna Wintour to join Vogue. After Liberman stepped down as editorial director in 1994, taking the title of deputy chairman, he moved to Florida. Liberman, who never stopped working on his art, began creating sculptures in the Sixties when he bought a group of gas pipes that had been buried un- derground, and continued to receive commissions until his death in 1999. “Adonai,” his first sculpture, entered AINTINGS COURTESY OF AMERINGER AND Y AINTINGS COURTESY the Storm King Art Collection in Mountainville, N.Y. By the time Liberman began sculpting, his painting had become expressionistic. “He thought of himself more as a painter and yet made his mark as a sculptor,” du Plessix Gray said. “If he was more steadfast with the hard-edged paintings, he might have gone down as one of the most important artists of his time. “He was always looking toward the future. I’m not sure how he would have taken to this long, backward glance,” she said, referring to the Ameringer and Yohe exhibition. “His art was remarkable and visionary for its time. I don’t know if even he had a proper appreciation

AMERINGER PHOTO BY THOMAS IANNACCONE AND P AMERINGER PHOTO BY of how remarkable and prophetic those paintings were.” Alexander Liberman, “Diptych — Two Ways,” 1950, Enamel on masonite: 60 x 74 1/4 inches — Sharon Edelson WWD, FRIDAY, FEBRUARY 6, 2004 11 Dancer From the Dance Geoffrey Holder NEW YORK — Geoffrey Holder is seated among a riot of folk art from the world’s black cultures; his own Impressionist-style paintings, which rest on the floor and any available surface; books, photos and magazines; plants, and tables and chairs, with nary an inch separating any of it. Yet all this is almost dwarfed by Holder’s 6-foot, 6- inch frame, elongated further by his dancer’s posture and the vitality that fills the room. The 74-year-old Holder is at once animated and still. His hands articulate, em- phasize and accompany his exquisitely deep voice and Trinidadian accent as he in- sists that he is not, “a painter who dances; nor a dancer who paints; a costume or set designer or a choreographer.” He is all of these. And, he says, he’s not “passionate” about any of it. “It’s work, and I just do it,” Holder insists. But in a video highlighting that body of work, passion is evident everywhere: in his powerful dancing, in the choreogra- phy for the Alvin Ailey company’s “The Prodigal Prince”; in the warmth of his oil paintings, for which he was awarded a Guggenheim Fellowship in 1957, and the en- ergy of his 1975 production of “The Wiz” — a black version of “The Wizard of Oz” — for which he won Tony Awards for best director and best costume designer. And painter or not, his canvases have hung in galleries such as Washington’s Corcoran, The Fogg Art Museum in Cambridge, Mass., and in the homes of Marietta Tree, Lena Horne and William F. Buckley. And who could forget Holder as the voodoo spirit in the James Bond film “Live and Let Die,” or those breathtaking costumes designed for his wife of more than 50 years, dancer and actress Carmen DeLavallade? Since the Fifties, it has been, and still is, almost impossible to keep up with the speed and sweep of the couple’s assorted projects. DeLavallade’s movement stu- dents at Yale Repertory Theatre in the Seventies included Sigourney Weaver, Meryl Streep and Henry Winkler. She’s performed with Josephine Baker in Paris; the Metropolitan Opera, and the Alvin Ailey company in New York. In fact, she proudly takes credit for convincing Ailey, a gymnast whom she met in the Fifties in

Los Angeles, to become a dancer and move to New York. Here, he danced, choreo- TURNER DAVID PHOTO BY graphed and started the company that is admired around the world for its accessi- ble and exuberant performances. In the past few years, the duo, together and individually, has been as productive and Holder met DeLavallade while performing in the original version of “House of inspired as ever. Case in point: “Geoffrey Holder, A Life in Theater, Dance and Art” was Flowers.” Four days after that meeting, he proposed; a month later she said yes. published by Harry N. Abrams three years ago. The coffee-table book, written by New And today Holder is still awed by his wife’s beauty, elegance and talent. “Carmen Yo rk Times dance critic Jennifer Dunning, is rich in historical photos and text celebrat- looks exquisite and never competes with the clothes she’s wearing. Look how she ing Holder’s life. His close friend Tony Bennett was among the crowds of fans who at- moves in that costume,” he swoons, watching a video of his DeLavallade dancing, tended the book party at the Museum of American Folk Art. And this week, enveloped in a wash of white chiffon Holder designed. DeLavallade is acting in the Second Stage production of “Winter Time” with Marsha The two artists never stop, and their SoHo loft, insists Holder, is their vacation Mason. In March, the Geoffrey Holder-Carmen DeLavallade Academy will open as an spot. One of the few trips they’ve taken in the past 20 years is to Washington, D.C., for arts program for children, formed and nurtured by both, as part of a local public the Kennedy Center Awards. Seven of the 20 dresses Holder has designed for his wife school’s curriculum. Then there’s the exciting possibility of a major museum’s upcom- will be on display tonight at the Fashion Institute of Technology, where the two will be ing show for Holder’s paintings, the specifics of which are still being kept under wraps. honored by The Fashion & Arts Xchange Inc. with the Black History Month Lifetime And of course, there’s tonight, the latest in the couple’s endless succession of Achievement Award. The 10-year-old, nonprofit organization is dedicated to creating awards and accolades, as they remain unspoiled and spinning. scholarships at FIT and professional opportunities for “individuals of color.” — Bobbi Queen

Reviving Lost Stars of the City of Light

NEW YORK — Paris in the Roaring Twenties flashed a “Who else would have known how to dress a mod- few high-wattage designers, but a new museum exhi- ern woman than another modern woman?” Steele rea- bition illuminates a few lesser-known stars. soned. “Just as the liberation of women changed the “Fashioning the Modern Woman: The Art of the way they dress, so also did female designers further Couturière 1919-1939,” which bows Tuesday and runs liberate women.” through April 10 at the Museum at FIT, shows off the That’s not to say they didn’t play favorites. Vionnet work of Augusta Bernard, Louise Boulanger, the was said to drive away stout visitors to her salon with Callot sisters, the Boué sisters, Jeanne Paquin and “Get out. Get out. I’m not dressing you.” She favored Maggy Rouff, among others. In addition to FIT’s pri- South American women, especially Cuban and vate collection, the Philadelphia Art Museum, the Argentine women whose sex appeal was more her Museum of the City of New York and private collec- speed. In Steele’s research, she noted how several tors provided the show’s 100 pieces — one-third of Vionnet clients liked nothing better than to dance in which have never been displayed publicly before. her fluid clothes. Beyond the sleek daytime dresses and dazzling Vionnet’s appreciation of women extended beyond evening looks, the display hints at women’s advance- their physiques. She provided her couture workers ment in society. with health benefits, maternity leave, good lighting Valerie Steele, director of The Museum at FIT and and comfortable chairs, and worked for the advance- curator of the exhibition, said she took issue with a ment of women and girls through education. quote from photographer Cecil Beaton that read, Most of the small couture houses started with a “Sandwiched between two world wars, between couple of reliable clients who purchased 25 dresses Poiret’s harem and Dior’s New Look, two women dom- each year. Competitiveness was inherent for several, inated the field of haute couture,” referring to Coco including Paul Poiret’s sister, Nicole Groult. Her Chanel and Elsa Schiaparelli. There’s no denying brother resented her career choice so much that Chanel is probably the most important fashion design- when their cars once collided, Poiret is said to have er of the 20th century, and certainly the most famous told his companion, “The woman in that other car woman in a field still dominated by men. Yet, she and used to be my sister.” Schiaparelli were neither the first nor the only great With the exception of Gres, Chanel and Lanvin, the women designers, Steele said. majority of the designers were out of business by 1940, “There weren’t just two women, but a whole regi- Steele said. Chanel’s dalliances with powerful men ment of women — Madeleine Vionnet, Alix Gres, motivated her to “transform men’s clothing into Jeanne Lanvin and lots of others — who saw their role women’s clothing so they would have the kind of was to dress a woman, not just decorate her,” said power men had,” she added. Steele, during a walk-through earlier this week. “The As for what today’s designers may take away from whole cultural ideal of women was changing.” “Fashioning the Modern Woman,” Steele said, That was not by chance. In the Twenties and “Designers could hardly help but be inspired,” even Thirties, the rise of the modern liberated woman led if they might take shortcuts to get similar effects and to the surge in female designers who were inspired by details. the Ballet Russe and Isadora Duncan’s barefoot danc- But even that is not breaking new ground. Claire ing, among other things. All in all, women were cutting McCardell used to buy Vionnet pieces to dissect them

their hair, casting aside corsets, wearing short skirts, to see how more-affordable versions could be made ERICKSEN KYLE PHOTOS BY smoking cigarettes, getting jobs, filing for divorce and for her contemporaries, Steele said. Clockwise from top left: Callot sisters dress; Chanel cocktail dressing very radically, regardless of their social class. — Rosemary Feitelberg dress; Maggy Rouff evening coat and an Alice Bernard dress. 12 WWD, FRIDAY, FEBRUARY 6, 2004 The Beauty Report Coty Looks Toward Next Century NEW YORK — A century ago, a young François Coty ar- “Jennifer Lopez continues to rived in Paris and laid the foundation for what became leverage her celebrity and wide con- Bernd Beetz the global fragrance business. Now the company that sumer acceptance,” according to bears his name is starting its second 100 years with the Kristin Campisi, NPD account asso- intention of becoming a major force in the world. ciate. “Following in the footsteps of Despite the persistent sluggishness of the U.S. fra- her 2002’s fragrance Glow, Jennifer grance market, Coty Inc. boasts two powerhouse Lopez’s second fragrance, Still, was brands — Jennifer Lopez and Céline Dion — in the launched in September 2003 and prestige and mass markets, respectively. JLo’s two fra- ended the year as one of the top-five grances combined are generating a wholesale volume women’s fragrance launches. Glow, in excess of $100 million globally and the Dion brand is the number one women’s launch in expected to do $50 million to $60 million worldwide for 2002, continued to have an outstand- the fiscal year, which ends June 30. ing year in 2003, posting a 27 percent Bernd Beetz, who has been the chief executive offi- increase and ending the year as one cer for nearly three years, expects to end the fiscal of the top 10 performers. Together, year with a volume of $1.9 billion. It stood at $1.5 bil- Glow and Still own 3.1 percent of the lion after he took the helm on May 1, 2001, and ad- women’s fragrance market vanced to $1.7 billion by June 30, 2003. In terms of profit, Beetz said the “We are starting the next 100 years on good footing,” picture has markedly improved, with Beetz noted. Asked what his aspirations are, Beetz EBITA (earnings before interest, taxes replied, “I want to establish Coty in the top 10 world- and appreciation) “almost doubled” wide.” The company now ranks 13th, he added. Beetz during Beetz’s tenure, to a margin of estimated that the company’s volume would have to sales that he described as “in line grow to $2.5 billion to join that elect club, and predict- with the industry.” He added that Coty ed that it will take two to three years to accomplish. was profitable when he took charge. Thia Breen, executive vice president of cosmetics at Michael Fishoff, Coty’s chief fi- the Federated Merchandising division of Federated nancial officer, said the EBITA is Glow by JLo Department Stores, said the JLo fragrances have been “approximately 10 percent” of sales. “outstanding” and there was not a loss of momentum He added that from the close of fiscal 2001 and the end wide brands in the division include Jil Sander, the top with the launch of the second fragrance. Moreover, the of fiscal 2004, Coty expects to cut its debt in half. He did fragrance seller in Germany; and Lancaster, which mar- Kenneth Cole Black for Men fragrance ranked at the not specify a total, but he strongly and clearly denied kets skin care, color cosmetics and sun care. The 300- top of the charts at Federated in the same period. rumblings in the industry about Coty sometimes experi- stockkeeping unit Lancaster was repositioned, repack- Breen, who added that Coty’s prestige market Lan- encing difficulty in paying bills. “We don’t have prob- aged under the Lancaster Monaco name and relaunched caster division has significantly improved its standing lems paying bills,” Fishoff said flatly, asserting that any in Europe last year. In addition, Lancaster has regional in the fragrance category, said she is looking forward to omissions undoubtedly come about through disputes. brands. The designer brand Joop is strong in Germany, the launch of the women’s version of Cole’s Black scent Although there had been speculation in the past the U.K. and Australia. Other licenses include Vivienne in April. It is expected to rank in the top 10. As well, under Beetz’s predecessor — and now chairman — Westwood, the Greek underwear designer Nikos, Esprit Federated is now launching Lancaster’s Davidoff Echo Peter Harf that the privately held Coty yearned to go and Chopard. fragrance, and in April Davidoff ’s mainstay Cool Water public, the current ceo says, “We have no fixed goal. We Yue Sai-Kan, a top brand in China, was sold to brand will introduce women’s and men’s versions of a are very happy.” Beetz inherited a company with a com- L’ Oréal last week, and Beetz acknowledges “Club Med limited-edition scent called Frozen Fragrances. plex multibrand structure and a complicated history. At was not a success. We are thinking of doing something.” “They are great partners,” Breen added, “and they are present, 60 percent of business is generated in the mass The stable also includes Isabella Rossellini’s Manifesto hungry to develop their brands.” According to Coty, the market and the remaining 40 percent in prestige. and Pierre Cardin fragrances in Europe. prestige fragrance group — which includes Lopez, The company was formed in stages over the last In the mass market, the fortunes and direction of Davidoff and Cool Water, the newly purchased Kenneth dozen years. The German consumer products giant Joh. the original Coty operation shifted dramatically in the Cole and Marc Jacobs scent licenses and Jil Sander — has A. Benckiser GmbH acquired the Lancaster Group for Nineties when the market for midpriced mass fra- steadily moved up in the department store rankings in the Beecham in the U.K. in 1990. In 1992, Coty Inc., which grances evaporated. Coty pioneered aromatherapy in U.S. from 11th three years ago, to number six this year, to was the leading marketer of mass market fragrances, drugstores with The Healing Garden, built a strong an expected fourth place by the end of this fiscal year. was acquired from Pfizer Inc. Two years later, Coty’s U.S. mass platform with the Adidas brand and built The Jennifer Lopez and Kenneth Cole fragrances fu- division bought the Chicago based Quintessence and Rimmel into the third-ranked color brand — and sec- eled a 23 percent growth for Lancaster in 2003, according with it acquired the Jovan mass market fragrances. In ond biggest company — in the European mass market. to NPD BeautyTrends. According to the sales tracking 1994, Benckiser reorganized the entire company under Rimmel is distributed nationally here in Wal-Mart and firm, Cole captured a 26 percent share of all men’s launch- the Coty Inc. umbrella. It also formed a joint venture in drugstores across Canada, and while in the U.S. it is es, and earned the brand 12th place in men’s rankings. with Yue-Sai Kan Cosmetics and acquired Unilever’s now only in Wal-Mart, the company plans to expand its makeup brands, including Rimmel. distribution. Beetz noted that the Jovan fragrance Beetz, a Procter & Gamble veteran who last business remains strong and the Stetson brand has un- was president and ceo of Parfums Christian dergone a “rejuvenation” with the launch of Stetson Dior (France), recruited new talent and reor- Untamed last year for a younger customer. Coty also ganized Coty’s many brands into “houses of eq- operates at mass under its Calgon brand. uity.” Calling himself a “passionate marketer,” Industry consultant Allan Mottus notes that Coty is Beetz devised a formula for growth. “I empha- well developed at the top and the bottom of the distri- size very strong and clear direction [for each bution tree, while observing that the traditional mass house or brand], while giving the teams the fragrances in the middle have faded. But he ques- empowerment and the freedom to express the tioned how effectively Coty has been able to update equities in a meaningful manner.” The Healing Garden. He also suggested that the pres- Beetz said one of the major challenges he tige fragrances are in broad distribution, “which is the faced was to make a splash in the American way the whole market is going.” fragrance world. “I wanted to conquer the Executives at the company, however, insist that U.S.,” he said, noting that he went about that every effort is taken to police distribution and protect task by acquiring the Jennifer Lopez license, the integrity of the prestige distribution. then finishing the job by buying the Kenneth The latest push in mass has come from the Dion fra- Cole and Marc Jacobs businesses. grance brand, which, with JLo, succeeded in a drooping Prior to the launch of the JLo blockbuster fragrance market and showed that contrary to conven- fragrances, Lancaster’s fragrance business tional wisdom, celebrity fragrances can succeed. Beetz was primarily driven in the U.S. by Cool Water observed, “We proved ourselves by bucking the trend.” and the other Davidoff scents. Other world- — Pete Born ICP Granted U.S. Distribution of Creed NEW YORK — International Cosmetics and based Cosmetique et Parfums International. Perfumes Inc. said it has obtained U.S. distribu- Saujet said the company would like to develop tion rights for Creed fragrances. the brand in its existing network of stores. “This As part of an agreement that took effect is a strong opportunity for us to further develop Monday, Creed parent Société Henry Creed SA the Creed business in its existing, very limited granted distribution rights for the brand in the distribution in the United States,” he said. The U.S. and Puerto Rico to International Cosmetics brand is carried at 36 Neiman Marcus locations, and Perfumes Inc., according to Emmanuel at Bergdorf Goodman, at 17 Saks Fifth Avenue Saujet, ICP’s president and chief executive officer. stores and at specialty boutiques. There are also ICP is the New York-based subsidiary of Paris- two freestanding Creed boutiques in Manhattan. WWD, FRIDAY, FEBRUARY 6, 2004 13 MAC Adds Five to Viva Glam Roster NEW YORK — MAC Cosmetics is celebrating the 10th an- said Demsey. “Linda Evangelista is the original super- niversary of its MAC AIDS Fund by naming five new model, and she’s part of the DNA of this company. Boy John Demsey spokesmen for its Viva Glam line. George is the ultimate manifestation of makeup, and he Missy Elliott, Christina Aguilera, Chloë Sevigny, Linda speaks not only to a commercial audience but also to an Evangelista and Boy George are the newest additions to a alternative audience. Chloë Sevigny is the ultimate indie roster of Viva Glam spokesmen who, over the years, has film actress — she’s a leading lady who started under- included L’il Kim, RuPaul and Elton John. The Viva Glam ground, and she wants to use her voice to raise issue on a line — comprising four shades — is the primary fund- global basis. Missy Elliott is creative and not afraid to raising vehicle for the MAC AIDS Fund, which, over the challenge convention. She has been profoundly affected past 10 years, has raised more than $32 million. by AIDS in her own family, and she speaks to the urban “There is no one single person that can address every community. Christina Aguilera is one of the leading voices group that is dealing with AIDS — so we decided to name in music today and is deeply passionate about the issue.” five,” said John Demsey, president of MAC, who called the Demsey wouldn’t comment on projected sales for the new new campaign “a watershed moment for MAC.” Demsey lip products, but industry sources estimated that the brand is added that a fifth Viva Glam lipstick shade — a neutral looking for at least $10 million in first-year retail sales. It is pink — will be added, as will a new coordinating Lipglass estimated that the existing four lipsticks do about $3.5 mil- shade, marking the first time that formulation has been lion at retail yearly. Demsey also declined to comment on the part of the fund-raising effort. Both will hit MAC’s 750 lengths of the celebrities’ contracts or their compensation. global doors in March. The lipstick will retail for $14, and “I’m very excited — and very honored — to be among the the Lipglass will sell for $13.50. An ad campaign shot by five new spokespeople,” said Evangelista. “And I’ve always photographer Michael Thompson with creative direction loved MAC — 95 percent of the time, I’m wearing my Spice by James Gager breaks globally in April. Visuals have not lip pencil. I’ve always bought all of the Viva Glam shades, yet been unveiled, but it is said that each of the five too, and I’m proud to be associated with a company that celebrities has been shot separately in Viva Glam T-shirts. gives 100 percent of the proceeds to the charity. Celebrities “Over the past 10 years, we have addressed AIDS and its do wonderful work for charities, but it’s especially wonder- importance as a global health issue in a number of ways,” ful when you’re giving every penny to the charity.” Demsey continued. “In conceptualizing our latest plans, we MAC, which is also the new official makeup sponsor of had two objectives: to continue to raise money for the cause Olympus Fashion Week, will hold a press conference and and to build an even wider platform to speak to the various party to promote the new spokesmen and lip colors and ways that AIDS and HIV affect different constituencies.” unveil the ad campaign next week. Each spokesman is “perfect for a different reason,” — Julie Naughton Herrera’s Stylish New Scent Prescriptives to Unveil NEW YORK — There’s a new man joining month. It will be launched first at Saks Fifth Doctor-Designed Skin Care the Carolina Herrera fragrance franchise Avenue, where it will have a six-month exclu- this spring — and he’s going to be playing to sive. The retailer, which also had a similar NEW YORK — The doctor is in at a selective audience. exclusive on the women’s juice, is a very Prescriptives counters this spring. Chic for Men, the designer’s third men’s strong supporter of both Herrera’s fashion The brand, which signed bicoastal scent, is the companion to Chic, the women’s and beauty, said Brady. In September, Chic dermatologist Karyn Grossman to a counterpart that launched in 2002. And for Men will roll out to its additional doors, deal last November, is gearing up to Martha Brady, general manager of Puig North which will include Marshall Field’s, Nord- launch Px Custom Concentrates, a America Beauty and president of Puig USA, strom, Neiman Marcus and Macy’s. new four-line skin care treatment line Herrera’s fragrance licensee, has big plans The juice, by Carlos Benaim, Jean Marc developed in the brand’s research and for the scent — in an edited range of doors. Chaillan and Ann Gottlieb of International development labs with the doctor’s “In total, Chic for Men will be in about 200 Flavors and Fragrances, is classified as a fresh, collaboration. “This is as close as you doors [in the U.S.],” said Brady, who has woody oriental. It has top notes of Italian berg- can come to get the benefits of visiting trimmed about 500 doors from the brand’s amot, iced lemon, crisp cardamom and fresh a dermatologist — without making an lineup since arriving at Puig watermelon; middle notes of appointment,” said Grossman, with a The Px Custom Concentrates line in February 2003. “This is in suede, cinnamon and black laugh. “We worked hard at creating products that people would want to use.” line with a decision we’ve im- pepper oil, and a drydown of “We had a lot of conversations with Karyn about her patients’ key skin care plemented over the last year Virginian cedarwood, Mysore problems,” added Debra Clark, senior vice president of global marketing for to focus on our highest-vol- sandalwood, tonka bean, orien- Prescriptives. “We were able to identify four key skin care concerns that we ume doors. We want to pro- tal amber and sensual musk. could help with: lines, discoloration, redness-irritation and adult acne. Together, vide the best service and sup- The collection includes these products make up a wonderful collection of doctor-designed skin care.” port, and that’s tough to do eaux de toilette in two sizes Mari Yamasaki, vice president of product development for Prescriptives, when you’re in 1,500 doors. — 3.4 oz. for $57 and 2 oz. for added that “every single molecular pathway has been addressed in these prod- This allows us to focus on our $42 — as well as a 3.4-oz. af- ucts, and we’ve also devised a layering system which will allow each product to key accounts and our special- tershave, $38; a 3.4-oz. after- work to the maximum. If someone has more than one skin issue, she can use ist sellers — as well as each of shave moisturizer, $38, a 6.7- three concentrates and get the maximum benefit from each.” Mrs. Herrera’s fragrance oz. hair and body gel cleans- Skin Renewal Cream, intended to help resurface skin, contains microen- brands — in a major way.” er, $22, and a 2.1-oz. deodor- capsulated retinol to help increase cell turnover; oligopeptide, intended to help In addition to Chic, the de- ant stick, $17, noted Lisa boost collagen production, and Siegesbeckia, a Chinese herb that is intended signer’s fragrance franchises Hawkins, vice president of to help prevent collagen breakdown. include the original Carolina marketing for Puig North Skin Tone Correcting Serum is intended to help correct and prevent dark spots Herrera masterbrand and the America Beauty. and skin discoloration, and its key ingredients include Vitamin C and mulberry and 212 masterbrand. Chic for The scent’s bottle — a cube grape extracts to improve skin coloration; glucosamine to help exfoliate the skin, and Men’s distribution is in line of smoked glass with a square, melannite, an ingredient proprietary to Lauder, to lighten dark spots. As well, the with — although slightly The Chic for Men ad transparent black cap — was serum is microfluidized, which increases the speed in which it works, said Yamasaki. more edited than — the Chic designed by Fabien Baron. Redness Relief Gel, intended to calm red, irritated skin, contains the pro- for Women’s door count. Chic for Women is in The print advertising campaign was shot prietary Anti-Red Complex to improve the skin’s appearance, along with hyalur- about 300 doors, said Brady. by Michael Janson and features model onic acid and aloe vera to replenish moisture. “Men should be every bit as chic as Nikolas Malleville, and the black-and-white And the fourth product, Acne Defense Serum, is a daily facial treatment which women,” said Herrera, taking a short break image is of a pensive Malleville with a shot of includes salicylic acid to clear clogged pores, hinokitiol to purify skin, algae extract Thursday morning from preparing for her the bottle in the lower right. It will break in to control oil and green tea and oat extracts to help combat redness, noted Yamasaki. ready-to-wear show on Monday. “I love the el- June magazines — the precise books are still All of the products are packaged in 1-oz. bottles. Skin Renewal Cream egance of black and white, and I was very in- being determined, but will likely include retails for $60; Skin Tone Correcting Serum retails for $50; Redness Relief Gel spired by black-and-white photography. The men’s and women’s books, said Hawkins. The retails for $50, and Acne Defense Serum retails for $25. The products will fragrance’s bottle resembles a modern ink bot- brand also is aiming for 25 million scented launch in March in Prescriptives’ full U.S. distribution, currently about 800 tle, but it isn’t heavy because it is of a trans- impressions, she added, which will include department and specialty store doors. parent black. And not only does the fragrance deluxe miniatures, mini-spray vials and While none of the executives would comment on projected first-year sales or smell delicious, it looks good on a dresser.” scented strips. While none of the executives advertising spending, industry sources estimated that the collection would do The fragrance will get its first public showing would comment on projected sales or adver- upward of $7 million at retail in its first year on counter. at a black-tie event — of which Herrera is hon- tising budgets, industry sources estimated National advertising is not planned for the line, although Dr. Grossman will orary chairman — next Thursday at the Frick. that Chic for Men would do about $3.5 million make a number of in-store appearances for it, and has helped devise an intensive Chic for Men — whose development was at retail in its first year on counter in the U.S. educational program for the brand’s beauty consultants, said Clark. As well, co-op spearheaded by Jose Manuel Albesa, global and that slightly under $1 million would be advertising, store catalogue mentions, about 2.5 million mailers and one million general manager for Carolina Herrera — will spent on advertising and promotion. blow-ins will be part of the promotional plans for the line. enter its first retail doors at the end of the — J.N. — J.N. 14 WWD, FRIDAY, FEBRUARY 6, 2004 The Beauty Report

John Galantic Celine Dion Parfum Notes Y TALAYA CENTENO; PRODUCT BY GEORGE CHINSEE CENTENO; PRODUCT BY Y TALAYA

The Celine Dion fragrance marketing team includes Evon Reyes, Marsha Brooks and Charlotte Magee. GALANTIC, DION TEAM PHOTOS B Celine Dion’s Fragrance Duet NEW YORK — Coty Beauty is hoping for back-to-back Parfum Notes infuses the singer’s personal tastes and added, “We spent hours with her exploring who and hits with the launch of a second Celine Dion fragrance memories. The package maintains the core elements of what has been in important in her life.” For instance, this spring. the original but adds a hint of a champagne blush color. the use of vetiver in the new scent is reminiscent of Coty Beauty’s original Celine Dion scent catapult- Celine Dion Parfum Notes will hit midtier depart- men in her life. ed to the top of the charts for its select department ment stores in April. Further distribution is yet to be The Notes scent offers top notes of peony, water lily, and specialty store distribution when it launched last determined. cucumber flower and nectarine, middle notes of April. At Kohl’s, J.C. Penney, Sears, Ulta and Sephora, “I was surprised by how much hard work goes into Amazon orchid, mimosa and heliotrope. Bottom notes it became the number-one- selling female scent dur- a fragrance launch. I’m sure a lot of people think that feature white musk, vetiver and sandalwood oil and ing the launch period. When the pop vocalist’s scent the music business looks easy. You go into a studio, guajacwood for warmth and sensuality. The scent was rolled into traditional mass market doors in August, it cut an album and go home. Of course it’s not like that designed by Firmenich; the original juice is by swept ratings there, too, ending the year with a 7.1 at all. With fragrance I never thought about all the Creations Aromatique. market share, for the September through December different elements: scent, the packaging, the advertis- Notes, an eau de toilette, will be available in a 1-oz. period, nearly twice that of the next best-selling ing, the marketing. I didn’t realize how involved it and 1.7-oz. for $26 and $32, respectively. scent, Elizabeth Taylor White Diamonds, according was or how involved I would become. It has been an To support the introduction, Coty will back the to Coty executives. incredible adventure,” Dion told WWD. launch with an $8 million advertising budget, includ- Despite the flood of designer scents into mass She said there are similarities between creating ing TV and print. Visual materials will retain the doors over the past few years, dollar sales have not music and fragrance. image of Dion on a swing because of its popularity risen. Yet in its first month at mass, the arrival of “Both are compositions of notes which is how the with consumers, said Galantic. Sources predict retail Celine Dion spurred the market to growth — up 5.7 idea for my new fragrance came about. For me both sales for the two scents could reach $70 million glob- percent to $18.5 million — for the four weeks ended music and fragrance are ways to connect with people ally this year. Sept. 7, 2003. It was the first sales spike at mass in 18 and touch their emotions on a very deep level. And Charlotte Magee, director of marketing, remarked months. both have the power to move us and yet we are not re- that women respond to Dion’s “love for life, her sense of John Galantic, president of Coty Beauty, said sales of ally sure how.” romance, happiness and strength.” She is an “icon for Celine have “exceeded expectations.” Remarking on Dion’s role, Marsha Brooks, vice pres- what women value in their lives,” she added. Coty is not about to let that connection with Celine ident, new business development at Coty Beauty, said, Galantic noted that the Celine scents show that the fans whither, so up next for April is a fragrance that “She is intimately involved in the whole process — ad- fragrance market can have legitimate growth if the “equi- borrows on the original romantic floral but adds deeper vertising, packaging, promotions, gift sets and the fra- ty is exciting.” and warmer touches. Like the first scent, Celine Dion grance. We have to be true to who she is.” Brooks — Laura Klepacki Whole Body Grows Into New Digs NEW YORK — Whole Body has gotten more wholesome. The going to do,” she proclaimed. Products carried in the store Whole Foods Market’s health and beauty department opened are centered around botanicals, vitamins, antioxidants, wild the doors to its second Manhattan location Thursday in the crafted herbs, organic ingredients and pure essential oils. Time Warner Center. The store has sage green walls and maple wood fixturing The other Whole Body store is located in the Chelsea dis- with curved walls throughout the department. “The curves of trict of Manhattan, which has a 2,500-square-foot separate the walls helps to guide the eye and feature Whole Body store next to the Whole Foods Market. While the the product,” said Dale. average size of a Whole Body department is 1,500 to 2,000 “All of the products we carry reach a square feet, the newest installation is a 3,000-square-foot, broader market appeal. They are fresh and store-within-a-store space. sophisticated. The concept is very different “The concept worked so well in Chelsea and had so many from your grandmother’s health food store,” customers,” remarked Marilyn Dale, Northeast region Whole noted Dale. The men’s department in this Body buyer. “This one is separate but integrated. The New York store has expanded and features Maxwell’s audience is so smart and discriminating that we felt it was Apothecary and Herban Cowboy, which important to have a store this size.” She also noted that they Dale said “has the best blemish pot.” have used the Chelsea store to test market a number of brands. There are also full color lines available New to this store are concepts such as the Beauty Pod, such as Zuzu, Dr. Hauschka, Lavera and which features face and body care lines, and aestheticians Ecco Bella, which are located at the back and makeup artists will be on hand to demonstrate and pro- of the store complete with a mirrored wall vide consultations. There is also a trial bar that allows cus- and sink. There are also various lines for tomers to try products on-site or take a sample home. Every infants and children. Gale explained this is product can be sampled, noted Dale. important because people become more “It is a full sample tester bar so customers can try any- aware when they have a baby, and may visit thing they want even if we don’t have it premade,” said Dale. the store for the first time when they have If there is not a ready-packaged sample, team members will children. “This is the first nine-foot chil- scoop the chosen product from the trial pod into a sample dren’s section,” said Gale. “This store is in container. A Made in New York section features manufactur- the middle of families. There are lots of children here.” ers from New York City that include John Masters Organics Whole Foods, one of the nation’s leading natural products The Made in New Face, Body and Hair Care, Savage Beauty Organic Skin Care retailers, had annual sales exceeding $3.1 billion for 2003, York section and and Tipton Charles Inspired Body Care. a 40 percent increase over 2002. It currently operates 148 curved walls The store will carry approximately 200 brands. “We are stores in the United States and Canada and just opened an feature products trying to get across our tag line: ‘Real Ingredients, Real additional seven stores in England. at Whole Body.

Results,’” said Dale. “The products do what they say they’re —Kristin Finn JOHN AQUINO PHOTO BY WWD, FRIDAY, FEBRUARY 6, 2004 15 Wal-Mart Opens Trio of N.J. Stores Clarins Reports READINGTON, N.J. — New Jersey residents got a taste of new decor and merchandising strategies being employed A new Wal-Mart in Watchung, N.J. by Wal-Mart with the simultaneous opening of three stores in the state last week. Flat Sales A 119,000-square-foot store opened here on Jan. 28, as well as a 133,400-square-foot unit 18 miles north in PARIS — Groupe Clarins Watchung. At the same time, the Bentonville, Ark.-based announced Thursday fourth- powerhouse opened its largest New Jersey store, measur- quarter consolidated net ing almost 149,000 square feet, in Neptune. Wal-Mart, sales down 0.3 percent to which was a latecomer to the Garden State, with its first $332.7 million, or 264.4 mil- store opening here in the late Eighties, now has more than lion euros. At constant 40 stores in New Jersey. exchange rates, sales spiked “This store is really different than the store I usually 7.5 percent in the period. shop at in Manville,” said Brian Douglas, a resident who Dollar figures are con- stopped at the Readington store on opening day to buy a verted from the euro at cur- basketball. rent exchange rates. His observations were on target. The store here presents The French beauty group a dramatic difference from existing New Jersey stores and closed 2003 with consolidat- one that New Jersey shoppers appeared to welcome. There ed net sales down 0.4 percent are wood-like floors in apparel, new graphics, improved at average exchange rates, to lighting and enhanced product adjacencies, which helps $1.12 billion, or 889.1 million make Wal-Mart cleaner and easier to shop. Wal- euros. On a like-for-like basis, Mart isn’t the only retailer tinkering with prod- sales rose 7.7 percent. uct adjacencies. Target has also tried to merge “In 2003, the world was related categories in new store formats. “It is Critical Mass confronted with the out- about merchants taking a look at the entire store By Faye Brookman break of wars, terrorist and making it easier to shop,” said Ted Gladson Bon Bon lip and nail products, priced at 88 threats and epidemics; the of Gladson Interactive in Lisle, Ill. “They used to cents and merchandised in tiny cookie jars. economic impact of which worry just about which products were on the shelves together, now There is also ample space for two house brands — was increased by a surging they look at the entire store.” MaryKateandAshley cosmetics and Rimmel. Wal-Mart has a large euro, canceling out our Wal-Mart has more than one store prototype. The unit in assortment of Bonne Bell along with a well thought out nail care as- organic growth,” said Readington incorporates new elements being used in smaller for- sortment. Cover Girl has a full 20-foot span while Maybelline occu- Christian Courtin-Clarins, mats in towns prohibiting large stores or when an existing site is pies 16 feet, NYC New York Color claims 4 feet and Physicians president and chief execu- taken over. Since this store was formerly a Laneco supermarket, Formula 4 feet. Revlon and Almay each receive about 8 feet. What is tive of Groupe Clarins, in a the footprint was somewhat smaller than Wal-Mart prefers. That notable is since Wal-Mart has its own fixtures, the chain is able to letter to shareholders. dictated a single entrance and a tighter merchandise mix. The accentuate the hypoallergenic positioning of Almay. Seafoam green Clarins said it expects its storefront is red, versus the traditional Wal-Mart blue used in an signage is used on the fixtures to evoke the image of Clinique, a de- operating margin for 2003 to older store about 10 miles away. partment store hypoallergenic line known for its distinct packaging “slightly exceed that of 2002.” Cosmetics has a new home in this design. In the stores nearby, colors. The company’s beauty cosmetics is off to the right of the entrance. Here, it is to the left and Fragrances are at the first aisle of the department, merchandised division, comprising the toward the center of the store, off the perimeter. Beauty is important in clamshells sitting on a shelf rather than hanging. There are more Clarins brand, rang up full- to Wal-Mart because it serves the needs of female shoppers and de- than 20 feet of designer and mass brands. year sales of $694.2 million, livers attractive gross margins. Eighteen miles north is the Watchung store, which sports a more or 551.7 million euros, up 1.6 The cosmetics department is near household chemicals and fea- traditional Wal-Mart exterior. Cosmetics is similar to Readington, percent year-on-year. On a tures universal fixtures launched three years ago by Wal-Mart. Skin but located closer to the pharmacy. like-for-like basis, sales care surrounds the cosmetics peg wall, hammering home the con- Although the Readington store has pizza, milk, ice cream and other would have grown 9 percent. nection between the two categories. In older Wal-Marts, skin care grocery items, it is not a true supercenter. Wal-Mart has not brought its The firm noted that the was grouped with health and beauty care. supercenter format to New Jersey. result “confirms the resist- Wal-Mart puts an emphasis on a handful of beauty brands not “I wish they would put in a supercenter,” said Douglas. “But at ance of this market to eco- found in other mass market stores such as Bari Cosmetics and its least this is a more pleasant store to shop than the Wal-Marts we nomic uncertainties.” Bon Bons and Love My Lips. Two feet of shelf space are devoted to have had.” The group’s fragrance division saw sales drop 3.6 percent year-on-year to $424.5 million, or 337.4 mil- lion euros. On a like-for-like Del Labs Could Be Attractive Acquisition basis sales would have been up 5.6 percent. NEW YORK — Del Laboratories is contemplating its had sales of $291.1 million. Del’s market capital- executive officeris 74, and his age could be a fac- Clarins said the result future, and everything is on the table — including ization is $280 million. tor in why the company is assessing its future was “quite satisfactory,” selling all of the business, pieces of the business Ken Wasik, analyst with Houlihan, Lokey, options. Wassong has become synonymous with adding that in 2003 “demand or ultimately keeping it as is, according to sources. Howard & Zukin in New York, said Del would be the brand and continues to be a public figure for was weak, retailers reduced The Uniondale, N.Y.-based firm markets attractive to many companies. “The timing is per- the company. Last fall, Wassong presented an inventory levels and travel beauty brands Sally Hansen, NYC New York fect to put it up for sale. With Henkel coming in award to Wal-Mart vice chairman Thomas retail markets declined, Color, Naturistics and Corn Silk and also oper- and buying Dial, there is a belief that there are not Coughlin at a fund-raiser for Long Island especially in the first half.” ates a pharmaceutical division, offering a range too many personal care companies of scale left. University. By brand at constant of items including diabetic care and psoriasis There is going to be a race for anything left to be William McMenemy, executive vice president exchange rates, sales of treatments. bought,” surmised Wasik. “That scare factor could of marketing for Del, said the company “does not Azzaro fragrances grew 8.7 The company reported sales of $350.7 million get a premium price for Del.” comment on rumors.” percent, while Thierry in 2002. For the first nine months of 2003, Del Dan Wassong, the company’s longtime chief — L.K. Mugler’s fragrance business was flat. The firm’s perfume distribution sales grew 12.2 percent boosted by full-year Jean Patou and Lacoste sales plus the strength of the Maybelline Looks Ahead in the U.S. Hugo Boss brand. By region, sales for the NEW YORK — In a transitional tioning itself to firm up its lead- and-white look with lighter trans- company in Europe in 2003 year for Maybelline, L’Oréal has ership spot in the U.S. mass parent blue shades. Intended to were up 3.1 percent to $697 expressed its commitment to color market. The brand had be more appealing to the eye, the million, or 554 million euros; the division’s leadership. had a major growth spurt, with design also is expected to make down 6.8 percent to $279.3 Earlier this week, as report- sales nearly doubling from $350 shopping and product selection million, or 222 million euros, ed, Karen Fondu, previously million in 1996 to $645 million easier. Recently renamed in North America; down 6 general manager of Maybelline- in 2000. Since then, Maybelline Maybelline New York, the color percent to $83.4 million, or Garnier U.S., was named presi- has stayed at the top, alternat- line has taken on an edgier feel 66.3 million euros, in Asia, dent of the division. Fondu ing market share dominance with new advertising and in- and down 0.1 percent to reports to Joseph Campinell, with Cover Girl. Last year, store graphics. $58.9 million, or 46.8 million president of Consumer Revlon showed signs of becom- Under Fondu, the Garnier euros, in other countries. Products Group, L’Oréal USA. ing a competitor again, too. hair care business also is expect- Looking ahead for 2004, As L’Oréal goes head-to-head In a freshening of the brand, ed to become more aggressive, the company is targeting 5 with Procter & Gamble in mass rolling out now is an updated with more product news coming percent organic growth in and prestige arenas, store fixture that lightens this year. net sales. Maybelline has been reposi- Maybelline’s previous dark blue- — L.K. Karen Fondu — Brid Costello 16 WWD, FRIDAY, FEBRUARY 6, 2004 The HBA Report DDF to Educate the Masses SNIPPETS NEW YORK — DDF is readying for a growth spurt. will serve on the company’s new clinical advisory In its quest to educate consumers on how to correct- board; Sobel will serve as the board’s director. PERRICONE OPENS SHOP: Dr. Nicholas Perricone is opening a ly treat and care for skin problems — and subsequently To go along with this new research effort, DDF is 2,100-square-foot store in New York on Madison Avenue in hook them up with products — the cosmeceutical com- unleashing an ongoing in-store marketing campaign September to better provide customers with his eat well/feel pany founded by dermatologist Dr. Howard Sobel is ap- that will put these doctors on the cosmetics floor of well skin care philosophy. The store will offer one-on-one skin pointing a select group of dermatologists, cosmetic approximately 30 Nordstrom stores. consultations, a full array of the N.V. Perricone M.D. dermatologic surgeons and cosmetic and plastic sur- DDF, which stands for Doctor’s Dermatologic Cosmeceuticals product line and copies of his best-selling geons to help in DDF product research and education. Formula, was founded in 1991 and now makes and books on health, beauty and wellness. To drive brand The 10 to 12 specialists, to be announced this summer, markets approximately 60 skin care solutions at re- awareness and meet his cult-like fans, the dermatologist best tail across the country and in the U.K. Elaine Linker, known for his anti-aging fixes, is making a rare public DDF skin care co-founder of DDF, said the company’s recent efforts appearance at Saks Fifth Avenue on Thursday, Feb. 12, at 11 products are a response to continued confusion in the skin a.m. In addition to signing copies of his best-selling book, “The care arena. Perricone Prescription,” Perricone will share diet and skin care “The challenge for retailers has been to get the tips. To help grow the brand internationally, Perricone has right products in the right hands of the right people,” tapped Marcie Krempel as executive vice president, strategic Linker said. “Now we will educate the consumer on planning and marketing, and Lynda Berkowitz, vice president, the facts about good skin care and dispel any myths.” sales, retail and professional. Krempel most recently served as The doctors, who will begin appearing in at least a management consultant for Elizabeth Arden International, one Nordstrom market a month beginning May 1, will Calvin Klein and Polo Ralph Lauren. Berkowitz was most follow DDF’s mantra of protect, cleanse and treat. recently vice president of sales, education and global events for Consumers will receive mail notification of doctors’ Bobbi Brown Professional Cosmetics. in-store visits. The advantage for participating doctors — in addi- WHAT’S IN A NAME?: The Andrew Jergens Co., the U.S. tion to a modest annual fee by DDF — is the opportu- subsidiary of the Kao Corp., is changing its corporate name to nity to introduce themselves to people in the commu- Kao Brands Co. this summer. The move marks the Japanese nity who may need a dermatologist. firm’s first effort to brand itself in the U.S. Jergens affiliates DDF is also sold in Bergdorf Goodman, Harvey in the U.K. and France will implement the name change this Nichols, Sephora, select Purebeauty stores in month. Kao purchased Andrew Jergens in 1988, a California and several beauty boutiques, such as Cincinnati-based company that was established in 1882. Apothia at Fred Segal. Andrew Jergens makes such brands as Biore, Andrew — Andrea Nagel Jergens, Curel and Ban antiperspirant/deodorant. Andrew Jergens also owns John Frieda Professional Hair Care, which Kao acquired in August 2002. percent concentration of California olive oil. Olive Oil Is Flora’s Gold Existing Olivina products include an 11-oz. body ON THYMES: The Thymes is launching a foot care line designed butter for $28, the brand’s bestseller; an 11-oz. body to deliver noticeable results to dry, tired feet. There’s a restorative NEW YORK — Niche fragrance marketer Flora Napa scrub for $28; a 16-oz. bath and massage oil for $38; foot soak with Epsom salts, a smoothing foot scrub formulated Valley has a new focus: Olivina, an olive oil-based an 8-oz. body lotion for $28; a beeswax candle for with walnut shells and pumice exfoliants and a foot cream to bath and body care brand it launched last fall. $26, and a garden soap for $28. The brand’s current both buff and moisturize feet. Items will retail from $16 for the Olivina introduced five new items at the New York distribution network of about 100 doors includes foot soak to $18 for the scrub and the cream. A $45 kit will International Gift Fair this week, a range that follows Gump’s in San Francisco and Gracious Home and include all three items. The Minneapolis-based company, which Olivina’s eight original products, Paul Labrecque in New York. sells its 250 stockkeeping units to 5,000 specialty stores which were launched at a Flora Napa Valley’s existing nationwide, last year generated $40 million in retail sales. The handful of West Coast stores in fragrance collections, Cielo and Thymes expects to launch a new range in the next six months. September. Meanwhile, plans Bohème, are each found in are in place to double the about 100 doors, including ON WITH THE SHOW: For anyone wondering how the industry’s brand’s distribution this year. Bergdorf Goodman. first beauty consumer show, Pathways to Beauty & Well Being, is Olivina could generate sales Driving growth this year, shaping up, several new developments have emerged to make volume of $300,000 at wholesale according to Kenward, will be the Sept. 10-12 event more complete. Show founder and this year, which would account an expansion of Olivina’s distri- organizer, Suzanne Grayson, has signed on the Fragrance for half of St. Helena, Calif.- bution network to about 200 U.S. Foundation to lead a seminar called “Flower Reading,” whereby based Flora Napa Valley’s total doors. Olivina was launched in attendees pick a flower and a flower reader assesses their choice, volume. “It’s the biggest part of Japan at Christmas and that revealing aspects of their personality. Also on board is New York the business,” founder Susan market accounts for about a University, which will sponsor the show’s Personal Growth Kenward said of Olivina. “It’s third of the current business. Pavilion. Finally, most of the show’s 60-plus seminars are in where we’re focusing our While Olivina’s only European place, coordinated by sponsoring magazines such as Self, energy.” And Olivina not only distribution is in Germany, Fitness, Allure and Teen People. represents a new direction for Kenward acknowledges that the company, but perhaps even Olivina’s newest items. expansion elsewhere in Europe GLOSSY HAIR: Frédéric Fekkai is expanding its collection of a new identity. “I felt that olive is on the horizon. olive oil-based shampoo and conditioners and is now [oil-based] products were true to where we are in Despite the expansive plans, Kenward is clearly launching a Glossing Shampoo and Conditioner formulated for Napa Valley,” said Kenward. “Olive trees have been content with the current operation, where dry, lackluster hair. Each 8-oz. bottle will retail for $20. there as long as the vineyards.” homemade formulations are developed by trial and Kenward took on investors in the five months since error, bar soaps are cut and stamped by hand and STYLIN’ RALPH: Ralph Lauren Fragrances will add styling launching Olivina and this week unveiled a 12-oz. liquid the candle and garden soap are cooked up in kettles products to its Ralph hair care collection of shampoos and hand soap for $17; a 12-oz. hand lotion for $18, and inside a barn, then poured into molds, she said, “not conditioner in March. Saved By the Gel hair gel and Get Hold clove, lavender and lemon verbena versions of Olivina’s stamped out of a factory somewhere.” of Yourself hair spray retail for $12.50 each and are lightly existing olive-scented bar soap. Each soap contains a 40 — Matthew W. Evans scented with the Ralph fragrance. PHOTO BY GEORGE CHINSEE PHOTO BY

Zéro Six Cent-Trente’s Zip Code Scent Plans 2004 Growth fragrances and candles.

NEW YORK — Nicolas Chabert has 2003, it has expanded into other sandalwood and vetiver. Each 3.4-oz. perfume in his blood. high-end specialty stores and eau de toilette retails for $90. The founder of fragrance boutiques such as C.O. Bigelow In addition, several more company Zéro Six Cent-Trente was Apothecary and Aedes de Venustas candles are slated to launch this raised in the world’s perfume here, Brownes & Co. in Miami and summer, in vanilla black currant capital, Grasse, France, watching Apothia at Fred Segal in Los Angeles. and bamboo green tea scents. In his father and uncle develop scents With no advertising, Chabert expects the fall of 2004, Chabert is for some of beauty’s top brands. the line to pull in about $300,000 in planning a bath line, including “I grew up in that environment,” first-year sales. shower gels and lotions, to round said Chabert. “My father and my uncle This positive response has spurred out the company’s offerings.

are perfumers and all of my friends are a major expansion for the small While Chabert is excited by the GEORGE CHINSEE PHOTO BY from families of perfumers.” company. In May, Zéro Six Cent- line’s expansion, he is careful to Armed with a lifetime of Trente will launch two candles, keep distribution limited and in the You will not find us in mainstream “It’s done really well on its own experience, it’s no surprise Chabert’s retailing for $40 each, as extensions right niche. “There has to be a department stores.” and there wasn’t much marketing fragrance, which is named for of the line’s two existing unisex scents selectiveness to it,” he said. “The Retailers, such as C.O. Bigelow behind it,” Ginsberg said. “In the Grasse’s postal code, has had modest — Yuzu Rouge, with notes of black stores we work with are about the owner Ian Ginsberg, said that the sea of all of these new fragrances, success. Since the line’s launch in currant, verbena and grapefruit, and whole experience — the fragrance has found success for some reason this one worked.” New York’s Takashimaya in April Cèdre, with notes of musk, environment, the level of service. despite competition. — Bryn Kenny WWD, FRIDAY, FEBRUARY 6, 2004 17 Betsey Johnson Inks Jeans Deal Koch Stays In-House With New Invista Execs By Scott Malone es. He will replace George to merge KoSa into Invista, a well as David Trerotola, who is to Gregory, currently president of move that will create a $9 bil- head performance fibers; Alan With Innovo NEW YORK — Continuing prepa- Koch’s KoSa polyester unit, who lion fiber enterprise that will be Wolk, who is to head the interiors rations for its coming acquisi- will be leaving. the largest such company in the unit, and Gerold Linzbach, who is NEW YORK — Betsey Johnson tion of DuPont’s Invista fibers Kromer will report to Jeff world. The deal is expected to to head textile fibers, will all hold has signed a four-year licensing business, Koch Industries Inc. Walker, a Koch veteran who will close by the end of next month. the title of president. Their du- agreement with the Los Angeles- on Thursday named three new become chairman and chief exec- Koch also said that David Dun- ties, but not their titles, had been based Innovo Group Inc. to de- executives to the unit’s post-deal utive officer of Invista. Kromer’s can, a member of its corporate revealed previously. sign, market and distribute a line management team. appointment to that post preced- business development team, will The company said last month of women’s jeans and denim-re- The Wichita, Kan.-based com- ed last month’s disclosure that be named vice president and that DuPont veteran Bill Ghitis lated apparel. pany also clarified its planned DuPont veteran Steve McCrack- charged with restructuring the will continue as president of Launching for fall retailing, roles for two other top officials. en, who had led the move to com- nylon apparel business. He will Invista’s apparel business. So far, the line will consist of jeans, T- Koch said Steve Kromer, cur- bine the Wilmington, Del.-based also report to Walker. he appears to be the sole DuPont shirts and other tops under the rently Koch’s managing director company’s spandex, nylon and Greg Biederman will be executive who will hold a high- Betsey Johnson label. The agree- of corporate business develop- polyester units into one business, named vice president of specialty level executive position at Invista ment allows for an initial four- ment, will become senior vice had decided not to accept the products and report to Kenneth after the deal closes. year term with renewal options. president of strategy, sourcing number two slot that had been of- Wall, who will be taking on the DuPont has extensively re- The line will be targeted to bet- and business development after fered to him after the deal closes. role of president of intermedi- structured itself in recent years, ter department and specialty the $4.4 billion acquisition clos- Koch has indicated it plans ates. Koch clarified that Wall, as prior to deciding to sell Invista. stores in the U.S. and Canada, as well as to the Betsey Johnson re- tail boutiques nationwide. “We believe Betsey Johnson complements our existing portfo- lio of brands, such as Joe’s Jeans and Fetish, very well,” said Jay Furrow, chief executive officer of Innovo Group. “With our existing expertise in denim-related prod- ucts, Betsey Johnson’s extensive brand recognition and the knowl- edge and services of apparel vet- eran Paul Guez, who will be in- strumental in providing input and oversight into the line’s de- velopment, we believe that the necessary components are in place to establish a successful and unique denim line under the Betsey Johnson brand.” This deal with Innovo comes with a series of other licensing deals for Johnson. Recently, the designer signed agreements for international distribution, chil- dren’s wear and legwear. — Julee Greenberg H&M Acquires German Gaps Continued from page 2 of $6.23 billion, converted from the Swedish kronor at current exchange. Last year, H&M’s sales in Germany advanced 3 percent in an overall market that saw sales decline 5 percent, he added. [Gap’s] prices “are too high. The German consumer is very price- oriented. — Sagra Maceira” de Rosen, J.P. Morgan The Gap’s German stores are generally located on prime sites on the busiest shopping streets, including Tauentzienstrasse in Berlin, Flingerstrasse in Düs- seldorf, Königstrasse in Stutt- gart and Kauffingerstrasse in Munich. While H&M already has a strong presence in cities like Berlin, Enhorning said, “We still think we need more shops.” He noted that some of the German locations would be used for so-called concept stores for teenagers, men’s wear and women’s lingerie. — With contributions from Melissa Drier, Berlin 18 WWD, FRIDAY, FEBRUARY 6, 2004

Media/Advertising Dude! There’s My Magazine

By Samantha Conti and photographs of a man with a knife protruding from his head (he said he felt fine) might not fly on the tube. LONDON — Their pages offer everything from close-ups of And with headlines like “Pee kept me warm,” a photo of the bloody women wrestlers and topless babes sunning in the Canary world’s largest hemorrhoid and one of a bungee jumper soiling Islands to images of humping elephants. Columns are called himself during his descent, Zoo offers up even grosser fare. Romp Watch and Rude Archive and captions feature puns like “We’re not trying to be The Economist,” said Andrew Bloch, the “womb raider.” joint managing director of Frank PR, which represents Zoo Weekly. No, they’re not tacky tabloids or monthly lad mags — but they “Blokes today are looking for a condensed, easy-to-read format and may well be the next great success story in British publishing. stories they can laugh about at the pub with their mates. We don’t London publishers IPC Media Ltd. and Emap are both hoping see it as toilet humor.” they’ll strike newsstand gold with their new hybrids combining The latest issue features a photo homage to Angelina Jolie’s A spread from Bergdorf’s advertorial. weekly celebrity magazine with downmarket tabloid breasts and butt, a man with a pneumatic drill caught and the monthly lad’s glossy. in his neck — he lived! — and a one-eyed goat born in Late last month, IPC, a division of Time Inc., South Africa — he died! The magazine is edited by launched Nuts — the tamer of the two titles — and Paul Merrill, former editor of Chat, the downmarket Bergdorf’s Emap unveiled Zoo Weekly, which reaches new lows weekly for women that features real-life stories and in news coverage. Both magazines are hoping to create crossword puzzles. the same steam as the women’s celebrity weeklies Merrill courted controversy in the very first issue Heat, Closer and Now — and grab a share of the 2.4 with a quiz asking readers if their doctor happened to million celebrity weekly readership. be Dr. Harold Shipman — the U. K.’s most notorious Mixes It Up Both Nuts and Zoo have a cover price of 1.20 pounds serial killer, who took his own life earlier in the month. ($2.20), one-third the price of a men’s monthly, and three The families of Shipman’s victims publicly expressed NEW YORK — Bergdorf Goodman is times the price of a tabloid like The Sun. The publish- their outrage, and Merrill apologized. defying convention. ers have each invested 8 million pounds ($15 million) in Industry observers say the jury is out on whether In its first national magazine ad- their launches, and are shooting for a weekly circula- the new launches will shake up the lagging men’s vertorial, which will hit in Vogue’s tion of 150,000 to 200,000. Both titles are born of inten- magazine sector and repeat the success of the March issue, Bergdorf ’s created a sive market research on men roughly between the ages women’s celebrity weeklies. Their shock factor isn’t 16-page insert that revolves around of 16 and 40. Both offer lots of pictures, bits of news, a exactly new, either — Bizarre and Viz have reliably models mixing and matching de- smattering of feature stories — and a lot of flesh. grossed out U. K. readers with puerile humor for signer pieces from spring. While ad- Nuts, edited by Phil Hilton, former editor of Men’s years, but not with the circulations being sought by vertorials of this nature usually Health and Later, offers up such fare as a photo of a Nuts and Zoo. showcase head-to-toe looks by sin- 1,000-pound python, feature stories on the virtue of sky And clearly things have come a long way (or sunk gle designers, the retailer was inter- marshals and the world’s biggest trucks and 10 weird really far) in the U.K. Or perhaps it’s simply that some ested in being more inspirational. things you never knew about Colonel Gaddafi’s securi- publishers have become so desperate they will “We got eight models of varying ty, including the fact that he employs elite female body- attempt anything to boost their businesses. This isn’t ages and we had them put outfits to- guards who sport nail polish with their AK-47s. the first time Emap has tried a weekly magazine for gether,” explained Robert Burke, Nuts is the biggest IPC launch of all time, and the men — Heat launched as a title aimed mainly at men Bergdorf ’s vice president and sen- first one undertaken under new owners Time Inc. but reversed its slant toward women when it faltered ior fashion director. “We felt that “This magazine is designed to decay,” said Mike out of the gate. Meanwhile, the British now appear models have become the definitive Soutar, editorial director of IPC. “It’s meant to be The future of British unshockable. British GQ once dispatched an editor, trendsetters. They see more prod- read in a couple of hours, give tons of value for men’s publishing? James Brown, after he listed Erwin Rommel as one of uct than any single person, save a money, be passed on to a friend — or left on the tube the best-dressed men in history — a viewpoint that handful of buyers. They’re exposed when you’re finished with it.” would be almost boring to Zoo. to everything, and the way they put It isn’t about dumbing down, said Soutar. “We are dealing with “The men’s monthly magazine sector has been struggling, and the themselves together is usually very a generation of men who are viewers — not readers. We can launches of celebrity weeklies like Heat have been very successful. eclectic. So ultimately the purpose either ignore that, or work with it. What we’re trying to achieve Downmarket tabloids like the Daily Star are doing well, too, so I can is to show how they wardrobe them- is a perfect balance between giving readers things they can understand why IPC and Emap have launched these magazines,” selves to reflect personal style.” inhale — like fast hits of fun and entertainment — and something said Charles Ross, of the London-based media consultancy Ocean. Given free rein, the models — they can sink their teeth into.” “But the question is, can they pull of the right sort of content — who included Trish Goff and Soutar said Nuts readers are the same men who read tabloids on a weekly basis — in order to drive circulation and advertising? Audrey Marnay — assembled di- like The Daily Mail and The Sun, but who don’t have the time — or If they do, they will create a market for themselves.” verse ensembles by mixing design- the stomach — for the average monthly lad mag. “I’m 37 years old Soutar said he sees the launch of Nuts as the best way of rein- ers and high-end and contemporary with a wife and two kids. I don’t want a bunch of lads’ mags lying vigorating the men’s magazine market. The future, though, is a pieces, such as a Chanel jacket, a around the house. Nuts is the kind of magazine you’d be proud to big question mark. “We have nothing to benchmark Nuts against Vince T-shirt and a Valentino skirt. consume publicly.” anywhere in the world. Ten years ago, the perceived wisdom The genesis of the wardrobing con- Depending upon where you are. A two-page spread of naked was that monthly glossies were only for women — and then look cept became apparent to the women — naked except for strategically placed body paint — what happened.” Bergdorf ’s fashion team during its trunk shows over the last year or so when younger shoppers began opt- circulation inched forward 5 percent to and newsstand sales were a mixed bag (way up ing for individual pieces, such as a 987,000, thanks to an increase in in the second half, sources said, but the number jacket and a blouse, as opposed to subscriptions. (Unlike other categories, weekly of copies distributed vastly increased as well). full-on head-to-toe designer looks. MEMO PAD news and general interest titles tend to sell So AMI has a new plan: it’s going to knock “Designers always say that if the less than 5 percent of their copies on off Men’s Health. models don’t want or take the LOOKING UP: As publishers file their newsstand, so subscriptions are a more Editor Peter Sikowitz and new art director clothes at the end of show, then it’s circulation numbers for the second half of reliable way to gauge their success.) Vogue was Neil Boulton (a former Black associate) have a disaster,” said Burke. “There are 2003 with the Audit Bureau of Circulations, up a modest 1 percent to 497,000 copies on been given a mandate by the powers that be to no fashion rules for them. They there’s a bit of relief in store after a dreadful newsstand, though that followed a record- make the magazine’s inside pages mimic its aren’t caught up in thinking you first half on the newsstand. breaking 2002, when the magazine posted an Rodale rival’s, sources close to the magazine have to wear certain things in a cer- At Hearst, the two biggest success stories increase of 13 percent on newsstand. (Condé said. And why not? Men’s Health’s newsstand tain way.” continued to be O: The Oprah Magazine and Nast Publications is a unit of Advance sales (440,000 in the first half of last year) are Yet the store was also eager to Esquire. O advanced 38 percent on newsstand Publications, which also owns WWD). still around triple Men’s Fitness’ new proffer the range of its fashion of- to 995,000. The magazine is now second only Another big success was Time Inc’s Real Simple, newsstand average. ferings to potential shoppers. to Cosmopolitan as the company’s biggest which, as reported, inched forward 10 percent Sikowitz responded that his magazine’s look “It was important to illustrate newsstand play. Esquire, meanwhile, increased to about 370,000 copies. — Jacob Bernstein and feel is still evolving but doesn’t include the breadth of the store and the va- about 20,000 copies to finish with a total of wholesale lifting. Still, Men’s Health is on his riety we have to offer and to ex- 116,000 copies on newsstand. It’s the fifth IF YOU CAN’T BEAT THEM, CLONE THEM: The Star mind. “What we wanted to do right from the start press it in a Bergdorf ’s sort of consecutive gain under editor David Granger, isn’t American Media’s only magazine suffering is go head-to-head with Men’s Heath,” he said. voice,” said Burke. “We respect and thanks in part to the magazine’s September an identity crisis. Far from Bonnie Fuller-land, But they should check with the lawyers first. admire designers’ viewpoints, but Britney Spears cover, which sold 186,000 the all-new, all-different Men’s Fitness is Rodale sued what was then Weider Publications wanted to show something that had copies, the magazine’s best seller in nine years. posting the same old results. for trademark infringement in 1999 after Men’s ours, as well.” (Britney, of course, was reportedly upset with After replacing the editor last summer and Fitness ran a succession of covers featuring black- Bergdorf ’s extended this con- the racy photo of her in a reshoot of the moving the magazine to New York, AMI chief and-white photographs of rippled young men, i.e., cept to its store windows for fashion magazine’s famous 1966 Angie Dickinson cover. executive officer David Pecker paid for a total Men’s Health’s covers. The two sides eventually week. But instead of models, the re- Perhaps Britney should have been more worried redesign, care of peripatetic design consultant settled, with Weider agreeing not to do it again. tailer picked 12 stylish social types, about her extracurricular activities.) Roger Black, that bowed in November. Hyper- Sikowitz has also had some senior posts to such as Amy Sacco, Helen Schifter At Condé Nast, meanwhile, Lucky surged trophied hulks disappeared from the covers, fill — his executive editor, Tony Romando, left and Charlotte Ronson. Each culled 11.4 percent on newsstand, bringing the while B-list athletes and C-list celebrities took to start Ziff Davis’ Sync, and his managing together outfits from different de- monthly average to 250,000 copies. Vanity their place. editor, the California transplant Dean Brierly, signers which best represented, Fair moved forward 8.3 percent at newsstand The results were as mixed as the benefits of quit to go back. The latter has already been much like the models, their person- to sell 430,000 copies. The New Yorker held some of the supplements hawked in the back — replaced and the former is about to be, al style. steady at about 47,000 copies, but overall ad pages finished down 9.7 percent for the year, Sikowitz said. — Greg Lindsay — Anamaria Wilson WWD, FRIDAY, FEBRUARY 6, 2004 19 Adidas Looks to Regain Steam With New Ads Playboy Bunny Boutiques By Melanie Kletter Hop Into Overseas Markets NEW YORK — Adidas is hoping to grab back some market share with its new brand marketing cam- LOS ANGELES — In the after- paign, the largest one the company has ever done. math of a successful run at “We have a job we need to do in America,” said Henri Bendel in New York, Ulrich Becker, managing director of Adidas Playboy Enterprises Inc. — International, as he unveiled the campaign Thursday which is marking its 50th an- in Manhattan’s Harlem neighborhood. “We are the niversary this year — is hop- leader in the sports industry in Asia and Europe and ping out Bunny Boutique we want to be the leader again in America.” shop-in-shops at Colette in The German sporting company has seen Paris, Harrods in London, its sales slip here as competitors such as Seibu in Hong Kong, as well Nike and Reebok International con- Muhammad Ali and his daughter, Laila, left, as a Playboy’s fashion con- tinue to gain ground. First-half sales and images from the new Adidas campaign. cept store in Tokyo in the in North America dropped 17 per- coming weeks. cent to $898.5 million, and in convey a consistent image, Becker This week, at Bendel’s, December, the company named a said. The campaign is launching in where the Playboy area new president and chief executive the U.S. now and will begin in Europe bowed in November, the win- officer of Adidas America. At that next month, and ads will continue dows are showcasing the one- time, Herbert Hainer, Adidas- running throughout this year. of-a-kind items created for Salomon AG chairman and ceo, said: Ali and his daughter both attended the anniversary: a Versace “North America is key to our success.” the unveiling events here Thursday, gown, Sean John tuxedo, The new year-long campaign, creat- which began at 125th Street, where a bill- Vivienne Westwood kilt and ed by 180/TBWA, features a wide range of board was displayed, and then moved to the corset, DSquared shirt and sports figures from around the world, including Police Activity League on Manhattan Avenue and Burton snowboard, among The Playboy shop at Henri Bendel. Muhammad Ali and his daughter, Laila, as well as 118th Street. Ali, who was also in a spate of ad- other items. David Beckham, NBA stars Tracy McGrady and vertisements that ran during the recent Super The designer collection next travels to Harrods, where it will be up Tim Duncan, tennis champion Justine Henin- Bowl, seemed in high spirits as he walked into throughout March, then continues its world tour through May, when the Hardenne and soccer player Kristine Lilly. Adidas the PAL center, waved to the crowd and even custom items will be sold at auction in New York on May 25, with all pro- confirmed it will spend about $50 million this threw a mock punch. Outfitted in Adidas track- ceeds benefiting the Design Industries Foundation Fighting AIDS. Bids also year on the integrated marketing program, which suits and sneakers, father and daughter drew a are being accepted now on the DIFFA Web site. has the tag line “Impossible is Nothing.” media frenzy from the local and international Playboy’s retail program got under way in very limited distribution be- The TV ads incorporate computer-generated press at the event. fore Christmas. Wolford hosiery, martini shakers and glasses and cotton images of old footage of Muhammad Ali running Adidas also announced that it was partnering briefs and tanks are among the goods bearing the eponymous logo. in Kenya with current athletes spliced in. Another with PAL to support boxing and basketball pro- At Bendel’s, the Bunny Boutique increased its selling space by 100 computer-enhanced ad shows him as a young man grams for young boys and girls, some of whom square feet to 350 square feet. The retailer also hosted on Thursday a boxing against his daughter, and later commer- were at the event. men-only shopping event, complete with Playmates on hand to give them cials will features former gymnast Nadia “A lot of people told me I shouldn’t go into box- tips on what Playboy merchandise to get their loved ones for Feb. 14. Comaneci and other athletes. ing,” Laila Ali told the youngsters. “If I had listened Bendel’s will contribute 10 percent of net proceeds from all sales of In addition to TV and print ads, outdoor signs to them, I wouldn’t be where I am now. It’s very im- Playboy merchandise during the event to DIFFA. will run in six cities and store visuals are also portant for you to follow your dreams. You really — Rose Apodaca Jones

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JANUARY SAME-STORE SALES

January 2004 December 2003 January 2003 % of Change % of Change % of Change DEPARTMENT STORES Bon-Ton (5.0) (1.9) 8.9 Dillard's 2.0 (4.0) (5.0) Federated 5.5 1.2 (1.2) Gottschalks 8.6 0.6 2.0 Kohl's 0.3 (1.2) 5.5 Marshall Field's 4.3 (0.3) (2.6) May Co. 5.3 1.1 (4.4) Mervyn's (3.5) (7.3) (6.6) Neiman Marcus 12.8 14.8 (2.8) Nordstrom 8.7 9.1 0.8 J.C. Penney (dept. stores) 6.4 4.3 (3.8) Saks Dept. Store Group 3.3 2.9 0.0 Saks Fifth Ave. Enterprises 10.9 9.6 (4.7) Sears Roebuck (U.S. stores) 4.6 (0.8) (8.0) Stage Stores 2.1 1.2 (5.2) Average: 4.4 2.0 (1.8)

SPECIALTY CHAINS Abercrombie & Fitch 2.0 (13.0) 3.0 Aeropostale 17.7 5.7 4.6 American Eagle (U.S. stores) 0.6 (6.1) 3.2 Ann Taylor 3.7 26.2 (10.3) Banana Republic (1.0) 10.0 11.0 Bebe 4.8 7.0 (6.9) Outerwear and Buckle 0.5 4.8 4.3 clearance sales helped Cache 10.0 3.0 5.0 drive traffic in January. Cato (8.0) 0.0 (5.0) Charming Shoppes (3.0) 4.0 (1.0) PHOTO BY NAJLAH FEANNY/CORBIS PHOTO BY Chico's FAS 19.5 24.3 8.1 Continued from page one retailers skillfully managed enhanced by sales events. Com- Christopher & Banks (15.0) (7.0) (9.0) Noteworthy were the high- their holiday inventories, leav- parable-store sales at Limited Claire's 10.0 6.0 8.0 end retailers, Neiman Marcus, ing less carryover at the end of Brands were lifted by better- Deb Shops 5.0 (7.0) (5.0) Saks Fifth Ave. and Nordstrom, the month to mark down. More- than-expected sales at its Bath Dress Barn 5.0 (1.0) (2.0) which posted stellar same-store over, analysts and retailers were & Body Works, Limited and Gadzooks (19.2) (25.2) (7.7) sales for a third month in a row. pleased consumers positively re- Victoria’s Secret stores. The Gap (U.S. Stores) 6.0 0.0 7.0 Of the 50 retailers tracked by sponded to spring merchandise. company said results at the Goody's Family Clothing (1.6) 0.5 (4.8) WWD, 37 posted comparable- “Considering January tends three chains were driven by store sales gains for the month to be insignificant to sales and sales events, which boosted traf- Guess 9.5 13.1 (1.6) while none came in flat, and 13 profits, these numbers are too fic, but also narrowed margins. Hot Topic 4.7 10.1 13.7 reported declines. On average good to ignore,” said Adrianne Notably, a shift in the timing of Limited Brands 23.0 6.0 2.0 and by retail channel, depart- Shapira, a retail analyst with the Victoria’s Secret semiannual Mothers Work 2.0 (5.4) 4.7 ment stores delivered the Goldman Sachs. sale moved part of the event Old Navy 3.0 2.0 27.0 strongest gains followed by mass Dana Telsey, a retail analyst into January, affecting year- Pacific Sunwear 12.4 12.0 20.4 merchants and then specialty with Bear Stearns, said the key over-year comparisons. Talbots (11.8) (3.8) (2.9) retailers. takeaway is that retailers took Despite the clearance nature United Retail (5.0) 2.0 (10.0) In many cases, January same- in better margins, which was of January, retailers such as J.C. Wet Seal (21.4) (7.3) (25.1) store sales results exceeded ex- done by either selling more Penney, Gap, American Eagle Wilsons (0.8) (6.8) 0.5 pectations, which triggered up- goods at full price (a sign that Outfitters, Aeropostale and Average: 1.9 1.9 1.1 wardly revised earnings guid- shoppers liked the merchan- Urban Outfitters said they saw ance. However, analysts tem- dise) or by garnering stronger positive responses to the arrival MASS MERCHANTS pered their enthusiasm. They margins at markdown. of new spring lines, which also were hesitant to declare an end “The month accomplished fattened margins. Retail Ventures (1.2) 3.0 (6.4) to the sales doldrums that have what it should,” added Elizabeth Richard A. Hayne, chairman Ross Stores 4.0 4.0 (2.0) been plaguing key segments in Pierce, a specialty retail analyst and president of Urban Outfit- ShopKo 3.2 (2.1) (2.6) the industry. with Sanders Morris Harris. “It ters, told Wall Street that a “pos- Stein Mart 5.7 3.5 (12.0) Still, there were several ana- was a clean-up month.” itive response to our spring mer- Target (discount stores) 5.1 5.6 0.3 lysts who were glad to see robust At Abercrombie & Fitch and chandise, increased sales and TJX 2.0 4.0 (2.0) gains. They noted that several Limited Brands, results were redemption of holiday gift cards, Wal-Mart (discount stores) 5.3 3.9 2.6 plus growth in catalog distribu- Average: 3.4 3.1 (3.2) The luxury sector tion, helped drive January gains. continued to motor January’s exceptionally strong Tally: sales performance bodes well last month. Up 37 30 21 for first-quarter results.” Flat 0 2 1 And at Gap Inc., Sabrina Sim- Down 13 18 28 mons, senior vice president and Total 50 50 50 treasurer, said on a prerecorded call that “regular-price selling SOURCE: COMPANY REPORTS PARENTHESES INDICATE DECLINES was up year-over-year, support- N/A NOT AVAILABLE ed by disciplined inventory man- agement and strong customer re- Noteworthy was men’s wear, leading the way, along with boys’ sponse to spring product.” which led the way for Kohl’s, and girls’ apparel. Among mass January was also notable be- Mervyn’s and Marshall Field’s merchants, only Retail Ventures cause retailers praised the during the month. Sears, too, saw comps decline, citing lower- weather during the month, in- posted low-single-digit increas- than-expected markups in both stead of blaming it for lousy es from men’s, while women’s December and January. comps. Regarding frigid temper- advanced in the mid-single-digit Janet Hoffman, a partner with atures, sales in the Northeast range. Accenture’s retail practice, said were particularly strong. This It was a similar story from the “great month” reflects grow- was on top of a strong, post-holi- the mass retailers, with Target ing confidence in the economy day selling season at the begin- and Wal-Mart counting the by consumers who are loosening ning of the month, and a tax-free Northeast as their strongest up their spending. Hoffman also weekend in the state of New market for the month. “Cold noted that consumers are seeing Yo rk during the last week of the weather positively impacted our improvements in the product month. Moderate players, such apparel sales,” said Wal-Mart, and how it’s merchandised. as Kohl’s and J.C. Penney, said which added that sleepwear and “Retailers are getting the they experienced the largest outerwear were strong sellers. right product at the right places comp increases in the Northeast. Wal-Mart also saw men’s wear at the right time,” Hoffman said. Next Wave Speakers:

Jean-Paul Agón Susan Arnold Bernd Beetz Robin R. Burns Robin Coe-Hutshing Darlene Daggett John Dempsey L’Oréal USA Inc. The Procter & Gamble Company Coty Inc. Victoria’s Secret Beauty Studio at Fred Segal QVC Inc. MAC Cosmetics and Intimate Beauty Corp.

Plus: Jo Horgan Mecca Cosmetica Jane Hertzmark Hudis Beauty Bank Matthew Malin Malin & Goetz Inc. Jane Terker Cradle Holdings Ltd. Susan D. Kronick William P. Lauder Nicholas V. Perricone Marc S. Pritchard Jack L. Stahl Kip Tindell Dan Wieden Federated Department Stores Inc. The Estée Lauder Companies Inc. N.V.Perricone M.D. Ltd. The Procter & Gamble Company Revlon Inc. The Container Store Wieden + Kennedy

FairchildSummits. Call 212-630-4772 or [email protected] 22 WWD, FRIDAY, FEBRUARY 6, 2004 Selfridges Taps De Beers Profits, Sales Sparkle Paul Kelly CEO By Samantha Conti 10 percent higher than the previous year. The ure had not changed and the investment is company is so upbeat about demand that it still divided evenly between the two partners. Continued from page 2 LONDON — Diamond profits and prices are raised its rough diamond prices a further 3 In the second half of this year, America’s said one source. on the rise at De Beers Societe Anonyme. percent last month. first De Beers LV unit is set to open in Another source said it was For the year ended Dec. 31, net earnings Ralfe said the company expects global re- Manhattan on the corner of Fifth Avenue and apparent after Weston’s $1.14 rose 10.3 percent to $484 million from $439 tail sales of diamond jewelry, which rose 5 55th Street. billion takeover last year that million on strong demand for rough dia- percent in local currency last year, to rise 6 Daniel Major, a mining analyst at J.P. Williams would stay on only dur- monds, bigger price tags and lower financ- percent this year. About 40 percent of retail Morgan in London, said, “At the end of the ing the transition period, though ing costs. purchases were made in the fourth quarter of day, the key thing is this: There has been a Williams had expressed interest Group revenue rose 7.3 percent to $6.57 last year, Ralfe said. fundamental shift in De Beers’ strategy — a in staying longer. A Williams-led billion during the period. Sales of rough dia- The U.S., which currently accounts for bigger focus on the higher end of the market management buyout bid was monds via the Diamond Trading Co., the 50 percent of the world’s diamond jewelry — and it’s clearly working. Since 1999, dia- foiled by Weston’s bid. marketing arm of De Beers, rose 7.1 percent sales, delivered strong growth last year, as mond sales have been regularly keeping pace Williams, who was formerly to $5.52 billion. did India, China and the U.K. Ralfe said with GDP growth. finance director at Selfridges The company said in a statement that the trend for diamond jewelry for a “The fact that the market was willing to before taking over from Radice, war in Iraq, the SARS virus and the appre- woman’s right hand — rather than the left absorb a 10 percent price increase last year declined to comment. Radice is ciation of the rand against the dollar barely — has taken off in the U.S., while trilogy and pass it on to consumers shows a great executive director of Marks & dampened results last year. De Beers said rings are becoming increasingly popular degree of confidence in diamond sales. The Spencer Home. this year looks even brighter. in Japan, where growth was seen for the market is so strong now that the industry is In Thursday’s statement, Wes- “We’re optimistic that 2004 will be anoth- first time in a number of years, the compa- struggling to keep up with demand.” ton also announced that Allan er good year for the industry, thanks to the ny reported. In June, De Beers said it intends to give Leighton, an adviser to Wittington expectation of a more benign macroeco- Ralfe added that De Beers LV, the retail notice to preference shareholders of an early Investments Ltd., a Weston hold- nomic climate,” said Gary Ralfe, managing joint venture between the diamond company redemption of 25 percent of its preference ing company, will become deputy director of the De Beers Group, during a and LVMH Moët Hennessy Louis Vuitton, is shares, amounting to $214 million. A final or- chairman of the Selfridges board. conference call from Johannesburg on making steady progress. dinary dividend of $150 million for 2003 will Weston added that he has estab- Thursday. “We are still in the process of investment,” be declared at the annual general meeting lished a new management com- The De Beers statement added that he said during the call. “We are realizing that later this year. mittee for the Wittington Fashion greater investment by the trade in marketing it takes time for new brands to be recognized Together with the interim ordinary divi- Retail Group, which includes and branding was driving demand for dia- by the retail public. I am happy to say that dend of $250 million, paid in 2003, total ordi- Selfridges, Brown Thomas and mond jewelry and helping diamonds to gain the Bond Street flagship had a satisfactory, nary dividends for the year will amount to Holt Renfrew, which is based in a larger share of the luxury goods market. In good Christmas with those results stretching $400 million, compared with $124 million Toronto. 2003, diamond stocks were reduced by nearly into January.” last year. The committee will try to de- $700 million and for the second consecutive The 7,500-square-foot store on the corner The company also announced that velop closer ties between the year, the DTC generated an operating cash of Piccadilly and Bond Street here opened in Jonathan Oppenheimer has been appointed three businesses, while preserv- flow of $1.6 billion. November 2002. managing director of De Beers Consolidated ing each firm’s identity. “We’re running down our stocks and “We plan to make a lot of investment in Mines Ltd. Gareth Penny will become man- Alannah Weston, Galen Wes- drawing diamonds through the pipeline,” this venture, with the aim of creating value aging director of the DTC. Both have re- ton’s daughter who is currently a said Nicky Oppenheimer, group chairman, for our shareholders,” he added. placed Ralfe, who will remain managing di- non-executive director of Witting- during the call. As reported, De Beers and LVMH have rector of the group. ton and its fashion retailing com- De Beers raised its rough diamond prices pledged to pump about $400 million in the Peter Somner, a director of De Beers, is panies, in May will become the on three separate occasions during 2003 and first five years into the venture. A De Beers taking early retirement and will be stepping full-time creative director of the by the end of the year, prices on average were spokeswoman told WWD Thursday that fig- down from the board. new management committee. WWD, FRIDAY, FEBRUARY 6, 2004 23

JUNIOR DESIGNER Contemporary sportswear company opening new junior division seeks designer with minimum 3 years experi- Bryant Pk Duplex 1100, 2000, 4500 FT. ence in junior market. Must have 20 Ft Ceilings - Great Windows/Views import experience, have contemporary SoHo-Sublet Penthouse 2000 FT taste and be well sourced in fabric mar- Prime Manhattan Jon 212-268-8043 ket. Fax resume Lynn 212-302-2399. MERCHANDISER Assistant Merchandiser Creating Endless Possibilities... Leading textile mfg. located in Jericho, LI seeks a highly motivated assistant Imagine That merchandiser. Must be highly organ- Imagine a company that recognizes your individuality and passion, 488 7th Avenue ized & detail oriented with strong STORE MANAGERS computer skills. Diversified responsi- and gives you the opportunity to contribute in meaningful ways Live/Work bilities - textile / garment experience from day one. A company devoted to building and shaping your Unique Showroom Space...... $3650 required. Bilingual in Spanish a plus. Duplex PH. 1400 sf/ +/-. Skylight. Philadelphia, PA Fax resume w/ salary requirements to: future. That company exists. That company is L’Oreal USA. Spiral staircase. 2 bths, 2 entries. Miami, FL 917-421-6066 Drman. Hi ceils. Wood flrs. Immed Occ 212-629-8694 / M-F / 10-6 / NO FEE Washington, DC PRIVATE LABEL For Space in Garment Center Kiehl’s Since 1851, a brand within the Luxury Products Division TECH SPEC Helmsley-Spear, Inc. of L’Oreal USA, is currently seeking professional, entrepreneurial Fast growing womens import co. seeks 212-880-0414 spec tech for private label division. Store Managers who demonstrate a commitment to superior Must have 2 years experience in customer service standards and the successful development garment construction, fitting, techni- Showrooms & Lofts cal sketching, & graded specs. E-mail, Education & Business Consultants BWAY 7TH AVE SIDE STREETS of our retail store operations. excel, & word knowledge necessary. New York, Philadelphia & Minneapolis Great ’New’ Office Space Avail Fax resume to Jeff 212-302-5763 ADAMS & CO. 212-679-5500 Ideal store management candidates must possess the following: or email [email protected] The Education & Business Consultant will sell Kerastase Retail • A minimum of five years experience in a retail environment and Treatment products to high-end salon accounts in a • At least two years’ experience managing a staff Production Assistant given territory. In addition to sales, this position requires the • Strong interpersonal skills and ability to achieve results Intimate Apparel mfr seeks hardwork- Education & Business Consultant to deliver professional ing individual to assist production coor- through team leadership dinator in all aspects of prodn over- education and hands-on training/support. The successful • The ability to work independently, but also within seas. Min 2+ yrs exp, Walmart exp a Education & Business Consultant will identify and respond to corporate guidlines. plus. Position req intense attn to de- opportunities that build long-term market share, as well as tail, ability to work under pressure & Kiehl’s Since 1851, as part of L’Oreal USA, offers an strong follow-up skills. maximize sales in the short term. The position must uphold extensive training program, full benefits package, 401k plan, Fax resume Prodn 212-683-4038 the integrity of the brand by following guidelines, along with Don’t Lose a Day Trucking to NJ! competitive salary and much more. For consideration, please Production Coordinator meeting expectations, goals and missions. Warehouse @ JFK email your resume, including salary requirements, to: Follow up with production, work with Qualified candidates must possess a Bachelor’s degree, along Expert Pik ’n Pak; Garment on Hanger [email protected]. designs and communicate with over- with 2-3 years of sales experience. Must be able to assess strategic Distribution/Storage - Reasonable Rates seas offices. Must be detail oriented customer needs and build alliances over time. Candidates will Call Bill Ortiz @ 516-394-2100 For Philadelphia Store Manager, subject line of email must read: and have 3-5 yrs exp in far east produc- tion. Room in growth. need excellent written and verbal communication skills, as well Pattern - Production - Samples WHN#1323509. Fax resume to: 212-279-9888 as the ability to perform both education and sales functions. Full - Fast - Quality For Miami Store Manager: WHN#1328447. Production Manager L’Oreal USA offers a competitive salary and benefits package 212-575-1001 For Washington, D.C. Store Manager: WHN#1335370. Evening/Social Occasion Dress Co. seeks including medical/dental/life, relocation assistance, education Prod’n. Mgr. w/minimum 5 years exp. & assistance, company-matched 401(k), pension plan, and PATTERNS, SAMPLES, We are an equal opportunity employer. M/F/D/V technical knowledge domestic/import. Chinese speaking a +. Fax: 212-398-6694 much more! For consideration, please email your resume to: PRODUCTIONS To learn more about L’Oreal USA [email protected]. Subject line of email must All lines,Any styles. Fine Fast Service. and our careers, visit: Production Mgr $80-100K Cuirrent exp in wo- read WHN#1310667. Or fax (212) 973-5220. EOE M/F/D/V. Call Sherry 212-719-0622. men’s woven /knit sportswear w/ knowledge of www.lorealusa.com India production. Hindi bilingual helpful. Com- To learn more about L’Oreal USA PATTERNS, SAMPLES, puterized. Tech knowledge of construction of and our careers, visit: apparel. Charge-backs w/ dept. stores. No PRODUCTIONS travel. Call 973-564-9236 Jaral Fashion Agcy. www.lorealusa.com Samples and patterns full servcie shop to the trade. Fine fast work. 212-869-2699. West Coast Fragrance Company Sales Mgr. (Denim) International Prestige Company Showroom Seven seeks fabulous Sales Beverly Hills, California Manager for designer denim brand from Brazil. Must have Dept. and Specialty store experience. Please fax resume and MARKETING/PUBLIC RELATIONS salary requirements to: Jean-Marc Flack (212) 971-6066 This new position reports to the General Manager and will work closely with the President/Entrepreneur to develop Marketing and P.R. programs for existing and new fragrance SALESPERSON Men’s-Boy’s branded urban loungewear Dickies Girl NY brands. Individual must have experience in developing new company seeks experienced individual Road rep w/ car & experience needed. promotional materials, new product lines and establishing SALES EXECUTIVE with at least 5 years sales experience. Contact: [email protected] brand awareness through P.R. relationships. Skills should Fast paced Junior Dress Mfg. Strong presentation skills partnered include the ability to create events that raise the level of aware - seeks aggressive and highly moti- with excellent communication skills French Cosmetics Sales necessary. Must have ability to pre- Leading French Cosmetic company, ness for the brand and writing skills that will communicate vated salesperson. Must be able to pare account plans: i.e gross margin, specializing in eye make-up since 1950 brand activities and excitement effectively to the press. Individ- start immediately. turn and mark downs. seeks commission based sales repre- ual will also work closely with our retail partners to maximize Fax resume to 212-391-9704 sentatives. Candidates should have RESUMES THAT WORK! SINCE 1970 Please fax resume in confidence advertising and PR opportunities. Our prestige products are following with Dept/Specialty stores, PROFESSIONAL RESUMES, INC. to Mr. Jay @ 212-869-3639. high end pharmacies and cosmetic 60 E 42nd Street, NYC 10165 distributed in major specialty stores, boutiques and upscale boutiques. Also, following in salons (212)697-1282/(800)221-4425 Department stores worldwide. Textiles/Home Furnishings and spas would be a big plus. Key terri- www.resumesforfashion.com Asian exporter seeks exp’d Salesperson tories open for fast growing company If your experience qualifies you for this newly created to sell Fabric/Finished Product to Home with wonderful opportunities for high- Furnishing Industry/Garment Importers ly motivated people. Please fax resume position that will have growing responsibilities with a Boys/Men’s for offshore production. Fax/E-mail to: and references to 718-591-8794. prestige fragrance company. Please contact us at - Outerwear Sales 212-594-7984 / [email protected] Fax: (310) 205-0647 or Email: [email protected] M. Hidary and Company, Outerwear ROAD REP WANTED Division, seeks a Sales Pro with est’d Mid Atlantic States Contemporary Boys/Men’s Outerwear contacts to sell /Missy Line branded and private label programs. Fax Resume 212-730-7872 Email resume: [email protected] CAD Designer DESIGNER or Fax: (212) 629-8692 Seeking CAD Designer for Textile Co. Assistant Jewelry Must be proficient on Ned Graphics De- Admin Since 1967 sign and Repeat/Cleaning Pro, Mapping. Designer Cosmetic Accessories Sales W-I-N-S-T-O-N Evolution Coloring Programs (Encad Luxury Jewelry Company seeks a full- Energetic, disciplined, motivated, long Nova Jet 630). Efficiently scan and time ASSISTANT DESIGNER with a term salesperson to cultivate major APPAREL STAFFING clean original artwork and color design minimum of 1 year experience in jewel- cosmetic accts. Cosmetic & packaging DESIGN*SALES*MERCH from start to finish. Sophis Harmony ry design. Technical, mechanical and exp. a plus. Min. 5 yrs. exp. Send resume ADMIN*TECH*PRODUCTION (Coloring&Reconstruct/MimakiTX2 drafting experience is a must along & salary history/requirements to: Retail Store Manager (212)557-5000 F: (212)986-8437 Printer). Excellent sense of design and with manufacturing knowledge. Candi- 225 Buffalo Ave., Freeport, NY 11520 Fast paced high-end retail jewelry color. Photoshop and Illustrator. Works dates must possess good communica- business is looking for a dynamic well under tight deadlines/heavy work- tion and organizational skills along loads. 2-3 years design experience. with strong computer skills. Graphic sales leader. Must be a polished Apparel Staffing Please Fax or E-mail resumes to: design knowledge a plus. Please fax National Sales Director professional with: See Career Openings 914-251-1656 / [email protected] resume to: (212) 457-4525 or E-mail Mfr. of Men’s/Ladies’ Casual Bottoms @ www.apparelstaffing.com [email protected] (5 million unit annual capacity) seeks •Strong management & communi- Fax Resume To (212) 302-1161 an exp’d., hard-working Sales Director cation skills to lead the company’s sales efforts. Duties include developing new business •Excellent organizational abilities FIRST & PRODUCTION and securing orders for production in •Motivation, enthusiasm and Asst. to VP of Sales Chargeback Analyst Central America and China. Must be creativity to build a great growth Leader in Men’s & Women’s Lounge M. Hidary and Co., a major Wearing PATTERNMAKER aggressive and well-connected. Please wear seeks motivated Assistant for Apparel Co., is seeking a Chargeback Fax resume/salary history: 212-869-6104 opportunity business VP of Sales. Must be detail oriented, Analyst for their Warehouse location Contemporary dress and sportswear hardworking, PC literate, Excel & Word. in New Jersey. Must have 5+ years company seeks 2 patternmakers. Retail Experience a MUST! Experience preferred. No Phone Calls experience. Apparel Background prefer- First patternmaker will spec and make Please. Please fax resume with salary red. FT + benefits. Pleas Fax or E-mail only sample patterns. Production Private Label If you are that person, please fax or requirements to V.P. Sales @ resume to A. Kreitzer at: 212-629-8692 patternmakers will be responsible for Aggressive 45 year old NYC diverse e-mail [email protected] (212) 629-7056 [email protected] only production patterns. Must be woman’s wear private label company is have experience with bias dresses. seeking the most experienced of fax: 212-986-1238 Fax resume Lynn 212-302-2399. seasoned sales professionals. Candi- date must possess 10 years of woman’s mkt. sales experience. Extensive Buyer/Asst.Buyer contacts w/ catalogues and stores for STORE MANAGER Branded Off Price Distrib. Designer Assistant. $50-75K. Min 1 Fit Model/Receptionist private label a must! Send resume w/ North Shore L.I.; Very upscale, est’d. shop Exp. In Off Price Mkt a + year exp. in women’s full fashion MUST BE SIZE 6/8 salary requirements to: seeks fashionable, energetic, organized Comp. Skills, organized, prof. sweaters req’d. Career oppty 1411 Seeing Day: Wed (2/11) 7:30AM - 12PM. [email protected] person. Salary + commission + benefits. Fax resumes: 212-840-8333 Attn: Kathy Bway. Call 973-564-9236 Jaral Agcy 1450 Broadway, 25th Floor, NY, NY. fax: 212-594-3009 Sat. necessary - No eves. Fax: 212-354-0132 ORES

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