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Wine from Umbria Paul Pettengale Sets out to Bust the Myth That Decent Umbrian Wines Are Few and Far Between – and Discovers a Few Surprises Along the Way

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Wine from Umbria Paul Pettengale Sets out to Bust the Myth That Decent Umbrian Wines Are Few and Far Between – and Discovers a Few Surprises Along the Way D ri N K ita L ia ! WINE from umbria Paul Pettengale sets out to bust the myth that decent Umbrian wines are few and far between – and discovers a few surprises along the way sk anyone who knows a bit about wine what they think of as decent when it comes to the wines of Umbria and there’d be an extremely good chance you’d be greeted with a blank look and a shrug. Maybe you’d get the reply: “Hmm, well there’s Orvieto…” Perhaps. For a country that prides itself in the quality (and indeed quantity) of the Awines it produces, Umbria, well, kind of lets the side down. Or at least, that’s the impression that it gives. Rifle through the shelves of your local supermarket and you’re unlikely to come across more than one or two wines from Some Umbrian reds give their Tuscan chums a run for their money, and at a fraction of the price Umbria – and I’d put money on them both being unremarkable Orvieto at around a fiver. But unlike its neighbour – the ‘shout-it-from-the-rooftops’ Tuscany, Umbria quietly boasts many a wine that deserves – cries out for – international recognition. In putting this article together I’ve tried wines that, frankly, I’ve never heard of before. And I’ve been writing about Italian wine for a large chunk of my adult life. In every instance I was knocked out at the quality. Especially when it comes to the reds – there are some Umbrian reds that give their Tuscan chums a serious run for their money, and at a fraction of the price. So watch out for Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Sangiovese blends coming out of Umbria in years to come. They’ll blow your socks off. ➤ June 2011 ITALIA! 75 ORVIETO CLASSICO ORVIETO CLASSICO ORVIETO 2009, RUBESCO RoSSO CAMpoGRANDE AMABILE LE CARDETO DI ToRGIANO 2009, SANTA CIMMELLE 2009, From Waitrose 2006, CANTINE CRISTINA BIGI www.waitrose.co.uk LUNGAROTTI From Berkmann Wine Cellars From Sainsbury’s £6.99 From Mondial Wines www.berkmann.co.uk www.sainsburys.co.uk As soon as you sip this www.mondialwineuk.com £9.99 £4.99 Orvieto from Cardeto you £14.21 The esteemed Antinori name The vast majority of Orvieto instinctively know what you’re Since it started to is behind the Santa Cristina conforms to a deliberate tasting – the ‘nuttiness’ of concentrate on wine label on the front of this very style of wine – crisp, dry the Grechetto grape variety production after the Second fine Orvieto – the Antinori and easy-drinking. This one’s is a dead giveaway. This World War, the Lungarottti empire now extends far rather different. Billed as example is very smooth, farm has become of the most beyond its Tuscan beginnings. ‘Medium’ on the bottle it’s well balanced and easy respected names in Umbrian This Orvieto really is a peach more medium-sweet. Lovers drinking – perfect on a warm viticulture. And when you of a wine; its aroma is a bowl of sweeter wines will enjoy summer’s evening while the open up this Rubesco, it’s of tropical fruits and white it, though it needs very BBQ coals have a chance easy to see why. This is a flowers, with a mouthful of careful partnering with food. to heat through. It has a wine that offers a rich tableau fresh, zingy fruit flavours and It has plenty of ripe melon delicate lightness of touch, of tastes – it’s a bit like a a tremendously balanced, and peach on the nose, which means it’ll go well with Nebbiolo, demonstrating layer rewarding finish. Frankly, honeysuckle on the tongue. seafood, though its moreish after layer of experience. one of the best young Avoid this one if you’re a fan qualities will ensure that the Violets on the nose, spiced Orvietos we’ve ever tasted. of very dry wines, though. bottle doesn’t last too long. fruit to taste: wonderful. GREAT WITH... GREAT WITH... GREAT WITH... GREAT WITH... Brilliant on its own, but Give it a go with rich, Either chicken or fish… But Roasted red meats are the it would work with grilled creamy pasta sauces or you’ll drink it all before way to go here – beef on chicken or pork chops. sweet pastries. the starter hits the table. the bone especially so. 80 ITALIA! April 2011 D ri N K ita L ia ! VITIANO RoSSO ToRRE DI 2008, FALESCO GIANO BIANCO ITALIA! DISCOVERY OF THE MONTH From Berkmann Wine Cellars Montefalco Rosso Sololoro 2006, Fontecolle COVE 2008, CANTINE IS R From Berry Bros & Rudd www.bbr.com Y www.berkmann.co.uk D LUNGAROTTI O JUNE Price £19.35 F £12.49 H From Mondial Wines T T 2011H N Our Discovery of the Month in this issue of Italia! E O Lovers of Italian red wine will www.mondialwineuk.com M be well versed in the wines £12.54 really is just that – a real discovery. Why? Because for starters, this wine is rare – less than 10,000 bottles known as Super Tuscans. So, Lungarotti has exercised of it have been made by the Pompilli family on its Well, think of this Vitiano a masterclass in wine-making tiny, 4.5 hectare, wine estate. This goes some way as a ‘Super Umbrian’. As well with its Rubesco Rosso, but to explaining the price – almost unheard of for an as the native Sangiovese how does its white Torre Di Umbrian wine. It’s also recent – the 2006 vintage is it comprises a third each Giano stack up? Made with just its second release (the first release, of the 2005 of Merlot and Cabernet a mix of the Trebbiano and vintage, comprised just 6,500 bottles). Finally it’s Sauvignon as well, combining Grechetto grape varieties, it’s made up of a pretty well unheard of combination of to produce a cherry and of a pale straw colour with grape varieties in this region (70% Sangiovese, 15% summer fruit concoction a complex yet compelling Sagrantino and 15% mix of Cabernet Sauvignon and that’s utterly beguiling. aroma of apricots and Merlot). And the best thing about it – what makes It has a superb slightly meadow flowers. Full bodied, it a real discovery – is that it’s one of those rare smoky, slightly herbaceous but fresh-tasting, it works wines that manages to be better than the sum of its finish that’ll keep you harder in the mouth than the parts. Sure, it’s expensive, but boy is it worth it! It coming back for more. price tag would suggest – a is absolutely bursting with fruit – cherries, purple And more. And… modern, sophisticated wine. plums, blackcurrant and bramble. It’s controlled, balanced, full bodied and at all times delicious – pretty well no matter what you choose to drink it with (though we’d choose a nice lamb stew). It’s one of those rare wines that manages to be better than the sum of its parts tock Photo S © i ORDERS OF MERIT It’s perhaps an indication that Umbria isn’t first and foremost a wine-producing region in that it only has two DOCG (Denominazione di Origine Controllata) accreditations within the whole of the zone. And one of those is pretty recent. Interestingly, the two wines that have been given this most prized Italian wine status are both red. Bear in mind that Umbria is thought of as being primarily a white-wine producing region – so no DOCG status for Orvieto, for instance. No, the two DOCG wines are Torgiano Rosso Riserva GREAT WITH... GREAT WITH... (based on Sangiovese) and, Steaks, lamb chops, roasted Green salads, grilled more recently, Sagrantino red meats and aged hard chicken, lobster, crab and di Montefalco. n! cheeses. Or a cigar. other shellfish. June 2011 ITALIA! 77.
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