A publication of Lindenwood University Press Spring/Summer 2019 vol. 10, no. 2

®® pg. 1

Spring/Summer 2019 A publication of Lindenwood University Press vol. 10, no. 2

EDITORIAL BOARD STAFF CONTENTS

Mark Abbott, harris stowe state university editor, Jeffrey E. Smith, PhD Steve Belko, missouri humanities council art director, Michael B. Thede pg. 13 Lorri Glover, saint louis university archivist, Paul Huffman Andrew Hurley, university of missouri-st. louis pg. 43 Meredith Marsh, lindenwood university SUBSCRIPTIONS Robert J. Moore, Jr., gateway arch national park pg. 3 Kristine Runberg Smith, lindenwood university ISSN 2150-2633 The Confluence is a nonprofit semi-annual publication of Lindenwood University, St. Charles, Missouri. Andrew Theising, southern illinois university edwardsville pg. 31 All rights reserved. and Lindenwood University Kenneth Winn The Confluence are not responsible for statements of fact or opinion expressed in signed contributions. Requests to reprint any part of ACKNOWLEDGMENTS The Confluence should be sent to Editor, The Confluence, c/0 Lindenwood University, 209 South Kingshighway, St. Charles, An undertaking like The Confluence doesn’t happen without the help Missouri 63301, or via email to [email protected]. of many people, both within Lindenwood University and beyond. © Lindenwood University 2019 We owe particular thanks to Provost Marilyn Abbott and the Board of Trustees at Lindenwood for supporting this venture. We’d Manuscripts. Any manuscripts should be sent to Editor, like to take this opportunity to extend our gratitude to the following The Confluence, c/o Lindenwood University, 209 S. people, institutions, and companies for their contributions Kingshighway, St. Charles, Missouri 63301, or via e-mail to this issue of The Confluence; we could not have to [email protected]. Print submissions should be done it without you. double-spaced, but will not be returned. For submission guidelines, citation format, and other particulars, consult 3 13 31 43 Zane Bell http://www.lindenwood.edu/confluence. An Extraordinary So Much to A Gateway to the East: An New Jaime Bourassa Odyssey: One Man’s Learn: Dye Tracing the Exploration of St. Louis’ Perspectives Cristal Campocasso Have you moved? Let us know if you have or will Fight to Stay Free Current River Mexican History Through on the Great Jennifer Clark be changing your address so you don’t miss an issue During World War II Landscape, Part III the Built Environment Fire of 1849 Chris Duggan of The Confluence. Nancy Durbin by diane everman by quinta scott by daniel gonzales by bob moore Subscription Rates. One year, $20. María Escalona The Schweich family fled In this third installment St. Louis had a relationship The story of the fire in The Write Fox, LLC, Tim Fox, Principal Visit us on the web at: Nazi Germany in 1941 of her work on the with Mexico dating to trade St. Louis started by the Gateway Arch National Park http://www.lindenwood.edu/confluence. and landed in St. Louis. Current River, Quinta Scott along the Santa Fe Trail steamboat White Cloud in Shenika Harris ISBN 978-0-9600179-1-1 This is the story of their looks at environmental starting in the 1820s. It 1849 often focuses on the Hispanic Chamber of Commerce journey during World change in the iconic came to include commerce, destruction to the business Holocaust Museum and Learning Center; Jewish Federation of St. Louis War II. Missouri Waterway. marketing, and migration district. This article sheds Paul Huffman COVER IMAGE starting in the late nine- new light on the happenings Library of Congress teenth century, as Daniel during the fire from court Missouri History Museum Herbert Schweich used this forged passport to escape Gonzales details here. testimony surrounding Bob Moore Nazi Germany. His family ended up in St. Louis. For more, the destruction of Phillips Music Store, through Maria Isabel Morales Gomez see “An Extraordinary Odyssey: One Man’s Fight eyewitness accounts. Maite Nuñez-Betelu to Stay Free During World War II” by Diane Everman. Carlos Restrepo (Image: Schweich Collection, Holocaust Museum Pedro Roca Rodriquez & Learning Center, Jewish Federation of St. Louis) Gabriela Romero-Ghiretti St. Louis Mercantile Library Association Álvaro Torres Ramos The Confluence is a regional studies journal published by Lindenwood University, dedicated to the diversity of ideas and disciplines of a liberal arts university. It is commited to the intersection of history, art and architecture, design, science, social science, and public policy. Its articles are diverse by design. spring/summer ’19

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The three of them stood at the guard booth in An St.-Laurent—45-year-old Herbert Schweich, his wife, Henriette (unwell and prone to nervous breakdowns and outbursts, especially at Germans), and little seven-year-old Extraordinary Marlene (also known as Dedee). They boldly approached the German lieutenant on duty and asked for a pass to cross Odyssey: into the French Free Zone for “a few hours.” Speaking in German, Herbert told the guard that his 80-year-old mother Stay Free in nearby St. Pierre was very ill, and they hadn’t seen her One Man’s Fight to in months. Dedee wanted, indeed needed, to see her during World War II grandmother before she died. Of course, they didn’t have a permit from the German garrison headquarters to cross. The Herbert Schweich, guard unexpectedly turned to Dedee and asked if she loved 1939 her grandmother. The little girl, whether from anxiety and fear or from the truth of the statement, suddenly burst into tears. The tension was palpable. The lieutenant slowly pulled out his watch. The time was 11:45 a.m. He told them that they could go if they were back by 2:00 p.m. The German took their identity cards (not a problem, they were forged anyway), saying he would give them back upon their return as he turned to lift the gate. Could it be that they were really going to be a complete family again, and free? Or would they suddenly be shot in the back? Slowly, the three walked

by diane everman out of the guard booth and crossed the demarcation line. The French guard on the other side greeted them—in French!—and opened the gate. They replied and just kept walking, ever fearful that they would be caught, that the Germans would realize that it was all a lie. spring/summer ’19 pg. 4 How did it come to be that this pg. 5 small Jewish family made it into Free France?

So, what brought the Schweich after the Great War. Herbert and 48 hours. Luckily, Herbert had family to this point in the spring Henriette were married in August withdrawn all his funds from the of 1941? How did it come to be 1931, and daughter Marlene was bank on the first of the month. that this small Jewish family made born in 1934. Herbert and his Thus, they left their home with it into Free France? And how did father owned a small store that a few suitcases full of necessities, they find themselves in St. Louis specialized in ladies’ dresses, fine never to return. Because they had after the war with very few people hosiery, and haberdashery. The their own money, the family opted knowing of their heroic past? family lived in a nice apartment to go to Baccarat rather than to with lots of space and toys for one of the locations provided by To answer these questions, it baby Dedee. Residing that close the French government. is necessary to go back to 1939, to the border with Germany, when the people of Alsace and however, meant that they were Two days later, Herbert, who Lorraine became the first victims acutely aware of the military had served in World War I, went of the German invasion into build-up on the other side. In to the French recruiting office to France. The Schweichs lived in August 1939 the area became a enlist once again in the service Strasbourg, having moved there “theatre of operations” and all of his country. Too old for the from a small Lorraine town right civilians had to evacuate within regular forces (he was 41 at the time) but believed to be of help to the military anyway, he was accepted—but not to serve in his beloved France. Instead, in February 1940 Herbert Schweich French Foreign Legionnaire Herbert Schweich, Herbert Schweich’s new (forged) identity card in stationed in Marrakech, 1940. (Image: the name of Henri Savet. (Image: Schweich Collection, found himself in Marrakech, in Schweich Collection, Holocaust Museum & Learning Holocaust Museum & Learning the French Foreign Legion. He, Center, Jewish Federation of St. Louis) Center, Jewish Federation of St. Louis) and others of his age, were sent to North Africa to enable younger occupied and unoccupied zones. Two weeks after he left would assist him in obtaining men in the Legion to return to Slowly the Legionnaires were Marrakech, Herbert was a civilian ID papers, contacts, and escorts. France to serve in the regular demobilized, and finally, in October, once again, living in Lavaur with Thus, in late January 1941 military. To say the least, this was Herbert was discharged and could a small monthly allowance, a bed Herbert Schweich boarded a train not what he had expected. But go home. Unfortunately, Baccarat, with a straw mattress, and two heading north to Lons-le-Saunier, if it served his country, he would where his family lived, was under blankets. He made friends a town close to the demarcation do it. After all, his family was safe German occupation. Those immediately with Mr. and Mrs. line. There he found the café, and away from the military zone. Legionnaires who lived in the Fidele and their son, Andre, and after waiting until most had left, Occupied Zone were sent Mrs. Fidele’s parents, the he approached the bartender to Unlike in the movies and elsewhere, while those in the Escribes, a friendship that would ask about seeing “the captain,” popular fiction of the day, service Free Zone could return to France. last throughout the rest of their who had also served in WWI. He in the Legion was not glorious. In Luckily, Schweich’s brother- lives. But Herbert’s wife and was helping many individuals who, North Africa, heat was the primary in-law was in Lavaur, under daughter, who he hoped were oddly enough, were trying to get enemy, although the dislike and Vichy control. still alive, were miles away in a into the Occupied Zone. It wasn’t harassment of the new men as town under German control. long before Herbert received his well as the drunken debauchery of In 1940 about 300,000 So, he made a plan to cross into new identity papers—he was now many of the Legionnaires was an Jews were living in France. the Occupied Zone, retrieve Henri Savet (good that the initials equal problem. Receipt of news Approximately half that number his family, and get them to the were the same)—and information from France was delayed, but even were actual French citizens, with safety of Lavaur. was conveyed about when and in Marrakech they learned of the around 30,000 of them having where to find thepasseur ’s Germans marching into Paris in come from Central Europe the Through contacts, he found house to get him across the line. June of 1940, the armistice just previous decade and become out the name of a town on the The only problem was that he days away, the cease fire, and naturalized citizens. demarcation line and a place (the also needed a new identity then the partition of France into Café de la Paix) where he was to card for his wife, and he had no Drawing by Schweich of where the family crossed in St.-Laurent. (Image: Schweich ask for “the captain.” This man photograph of her. Collection, Holocaust Museum & Learning Center, Jewish Federation of St. Louis) spring/summer ’19

pg. 6 pg. 7 Knowing she was his best chance, Herbert knocked on the door, only to be greeted by a large man who promptly punched him in the face and closed the door.

stumbled or was caught, they would be back in three weeks Germans had begun deporting would all be caught. at most. He boarded a train for Jews, no one had turned his family Baccarat and promptly fell asleep, in—yet. But she warned Herbert Herbert was in the first group only to be awakened by the sound that his wife had suffered terribly. along with a woman and her baby. of male voices speaking German. A drunken German soldier had He carried the baby and took off Opening his eyes, he found he was accidentally injured Henriette running when the passeur said surrounded by German soldiers when he furiously bayoneted the go. They made it to the trees and officers. Fearing the worst, door while trying to get into the in plenty of time, as did many he closed his eyes again and apartment. Since then, his wife others. However, the 90-year-old pretended not to understand what hadn’t left the apartment, leaving man was having great difficulty was being said. Strangely enough, little seven-year-old Marlene crossing the meadow, and time he fell asleep again, waking to not only go to school but also was slipping by. Out of nowhere, the next time to find the train to do the shopping, cleaning, the smuggler came up behind him car filled with French farmers. and looking after her mother. and literally pushed/carried the Henriette’s nervous condition elderly man to the tree line. They After not having seen his family was so bad that she didn’t had done it; they were now in for 17 months, he stood before communicate much and often the Occupied Zone, a place most their house in Baccarat. Slowly, yelled out rude things whenever were trying to get out of. They all he opened the door only to find it she heard that fearful sound of met at the rendezvous location, occupied by German soldiers and German boots. cleaned up as best they could, and prostitutes! Locating his former went their separate ways. Herbert, landlady, he found that after Many things caused unlike the others, however, needed the Germans had requisitioned Herbert’s planned three-week to talk again to the passeurs to the family’s apartment, she had stay in Baccarat to turn into 12 arrange how to get back across found another one for Henriette weeks, with the journey becoming Map on which Schweich marked the demarcation line that separated the the line. He estimated that they and Marlene. And although the more perilous for the family daily. Occupied Zone (north) from the Free Zone (south). (Image: Schweich Collection, Holocaust Museum & Learning Center, Jewish Federation of St. Louis)

Marlene (Dedee) in After trying several who looked enough like Henriette on January 28, 1941, only 18 people 1940 in Baccarat. (Image: Schweich Collection, photographers in the town, all of for it to work. remained—10 men (including Holocaust Museum & whom were “patriots” and willing Herbert and a 90-year-old), four Learning Center, Jewish Federation of St. Louis) to help, he still hadn’t found an That evening Herbert women, two children, and two image of a woman who looked found himself at the passeur’s babies. They had to walk 10 miles, like his wife. Strolling the streets location with about 50 other eight of which were through the in desperation, he saw a woman individuals, all waiting to cross woods, arriving at the demarcation ahead who looked just like her! He the next morning. Unfortunately, line before dawn. They were wet, followed her, trying to work up word soon came that a French muddy, and extremely cold. the nerve to ask her for a photo. traitor had given up the contacts Before them loomed the barbed The woman obviously realized on the other side of the line. They wire line with twelve German she was being stalked, ran into had nowhere to go, so the trip was guards patrolling on bicycles on a house, and slammed the door. postponed. Throughout the night, the other side. The patrols came Knowing she was his best chance, individuals and families slowly through every 10 minutes. The Herbert knocked on the door, drifted away, losing their nerve passeur told them they had six only to be greeted by a large man to undertake such a dangerous minutes maximum to get through who promptly punched him in the crossing. By morning, only about the wire, cross the road, traverse face and closed the door. Luckily, half remained. A new person and the meadow, and get safely into Schweich later marked this photograph showing the another photographer in a town place in the Occupied Zone had the trees beyond. They were to demarcation line at Lons-le-Saunier which he, and others, crossed with the assistance of the passeur. nearby had an image of a woman been secured so the trip was to go go in small groups, and if one (Image: Schweich Collection, Holocaust Museum ahead—but in three days. Thus, & Learning Center, Jewish Federation of St. Louis) spring/summer ’19

pg. 8 pg. 9 While the family was now “safely” in Free France, the war was far from over.

Finally, arrangements were made, of St.-Laurent where a certain his ill 80-year-old mother in Henriette was well enough for hotelier might help them. St.-Pierre. The officer tried many him to convince her to leave the things to trick Herbert, including house, and in April they left for Not only was St.-Laurent asking questions about his ability the train station with their forged a possible crossing point, but to speak German and about identity cards. When they got to because of its location, it was also Cologne, where Schweich said the appropriate café to contact the site of a German garrison, he had learned the language. the passeur to go back across the about a half mile from the In the end, the officer told him demarcation line, they found demarcation line. A permit was he had to have a signed statement that things had changed greatly. needed to cross into the Free from the local mayor to get the Now the Gestapo patrolled the Zone from this headquarters. permit. That was not going to line with bloodhounds, and most People did it all the time, farmers happen. This was the situation of the passeurs had been killed, and merchants among them, but that had brought the family to the caught, or stopped working. not a small Jewish family. Then, guard house where they crossed Everyone they spoke with Herbert had an inspiration. the border. about crossing told them the Because he spoke German same thing—don’t do it, it’s While the family was now fluently, he would just go to the too dangerous, and go back “safely” in Free France, the war garrison and ask for the permit. to Baccarat. But Herbert was far from over. After arriving The hotelier thought he was Schweich didn’t see that as an back in Lavaur in the Free Zone, crazy, and perhaps he was. Thus, option. Luckily, a kindly farmer Herbert had his wife examined Herbert Schweich found who had stopped into the café by a doctor, found a school for himself inside the German garrison told them that there was a Marlene, brought his mother headquarters where he told the crossing in the nearby town from the city of Vichy to live with commanding officer a story about them, and enjoyed the company of his good friends—the Escribes and Fideles. Unfortunately, in 1942 the Germans occupied all of France. The Schweichs, along with other Jews in what had been Free France, had to register with the police and wear the yellow star (which Herbert burned immediately upon returning to their modest home). Rationing was imposed, and along with it came a thriving black market. Most of all there was fear: fear of being deported or killed. Once again, Herbert had to design a plan for survival.

The nearby Convent of Massac-Sean, five miles away, admitted Marlene for free and recorded her under the name Madeleine Wendel, parents unknown. The convent even Convent of Massac-Sean where the nuns admitted Marlene under allowed Herbert’s mother, Emma, the name Madeleine Wendel, parents unknown. (Image: Schweich Collection, Locations in Lavaur associated with Herbert’s escape from the local Holocaust Museum & Learning Center, Jewish Federation of St. Louis) to live with an associated farm police in September 1943. (Image: Schweich Collection, Holocaust Museum & Learning Center, Jewish Federation of St. Louis) spring/summer ’19

pg. 10 pg. 11 The liberation of Paris in August 1944 brought new hope to everyone, and Herbert rejoined his family in Lavaur.

family, although she didn’t stay entered through his open window. store owner, French Legionnaire, arrived. Although Herbert wanted There was much to do upon great odds during the war, gave long. It was his presence, however, He went downstairs to the store and survivor, now found himself to return to Strasbourg, two trips arriving in the city, including getting her a new identity, placed her in that endangered the family, their from which he would get to the involved in the activities back to the city made him realize assistance for Henriette, whose a convent in southern France, landlord, and their friends. By this warehouse, retrieve his bicycle, of his friends and neighbors. there were no jobs to be had there. condition had not improved over and was a fighter in the French time, the Schweichs were living and flee. All went well until he He too became a maquisard Then, on Christmas day 1945, the years. She became a resident underground. His was truly an on the square, across from the got to the warehouse door and (resistance fighter). Emma died of a stroke. She would of the State Hospital shortly extraordinary odyssey. market hall. Their landlord lived found it locked! He had only a few have been 78 the next month. thereafter. In 1950, Herbert filed next door and ran a small store seconds to get back to the store While Schweich recorded With the tension of the war over, his Declaration of Intention to According to Yad Vashem, there with his warehouse nearby. and retrieve the key. When clear, some stories about his activities time seemed to fly. Herbert got a Naturalize and had a job as an by 1940 there were at least 15 On September 9, 1943, the local he retraced his steps, got the bike, with the resistance, most were job in a local factory that produced “IBM Operator.” By the next year, concentration and work camps police knocked on the door. As and rode to the Fideles’ garden, all about the people rather than his men’s shirts, and Marlene was in he was already the head of the in Unoccupied France, including per their plan, Emma knocked on the while worrying about whether fellow fighters’ actions. He spoke school. But immediate postwar French department at the Berlitz Gurs on the French/Spanish the ceiling of her room to alert he would encounter the policeman of his neighbors, Mr. and Mrs. France could not provide the life School of Languages in St. Louis, border. The Occupied Zone had Herbert, who was hiding in the who had gone to the nearby Francois. Early in the war they he wanted, nor the one he desired a position he held for more than 26 camps, including the notorious attic room above. The police village looking for him along the had found themselves the substitute Marlene to have. Thus, in 1947, eight years. In the 1960s, Herbert Drancy outside Paris. Drancy, told her they were there to arrest road. Luckily that didn’t happen. parents/protectors of a five-year- he decided to emigrate. held many language-related jobs, originally a camp for French and her son. As planned, she replied Once safe, Herbert took a train, old Jewish boy whose father had including teaching at Forest Park British POWs, became a camp for that he was off in a nearby village then a bus, to the nearby village shown up at their door and pleaded After several trips to and Community College, the Parisian Jews in 1941 and then a helping a farmer with his grape of Meillant. for them to take the boy in. He from the American Consulate University of Missouri-St. Louis, transit camp for Jews deported to harvest. It was the right time also told about the young man in Marseille, gathering affidavits the downtown St. Louis YMCA, the east in early 1942. Of the of the year, so it was certainly The mayor of this small and woman, both members of the from family and acquaintances in Priory School, and Clayton High estimated 300,000 Jews who possible for the story to be true. village, Mr. Bouillon, was a friend resistance cell, who fell in love the U.S., the Schweichs received School. He also helped prep resided in France in 1940, it With that, one officer left to go to of Schweich’s brother-in-law, with each other and decided to their immigration status in March future French teachers during is believed that approximately the nearby village while the other so he welcomed Herbert and marry against the advice of others. of 1948. Sadly, one member of their coursework at Washington one-quarter of that number stayed and patrolled around the introduced him to his best friend, Not long after their “forest the family, a little terrier named University and was a private tutor were deported and died square, rounding the market hall a carpenter named Niederlender. wedding,” the two were on a Bobby that Marlene adopted after for those Ph.D. students who in either concentration or every few minutes. These families risked all by helping mission when the young man was the war, could not accompany needed help with their language extermination camps. him and also became life-long killed. In her grief, the recent them. So, the family packed up exams. The Holocaust Museum friends. Unlike some in the village, bride rushed to his side, firing her what few items they had, traveled & Learning Center estimates that *The bulk of information about this they were all French patriots. rifle, only to be killed herself. from Lavaur to Marseille, then extraordinary odyssey comes from at least 300 Jewish survivors of the Herbert Schweich Collection, They were also part of the French on to Cannes where they set sail the Holocaust, like the Schweichs, Holocaust Museum & Learning Center The liberation of Paris in resistance. In a couple of months, on the SS Sobieski on May 27. arrived in St. Louis in the years Archive, St. Louis MO. August 1944 brought new hope to Henriette Herbert got a new, forged identity Ten days later, they caught their immediately after WWII. and Marlene card—one not stamped “Jew” everyone, and Herbert rejoined first glimpse of the Statue in Lavaur his family in Lavaur. Conditions after the —and once again in the name of Liberty in New York harbor. Marlene finished school then end of the war. of Henri Savet. The mayor also were not great, but times had went on to Washington University. (Image: changed, and they didn’t have to Although many American Schweich gave him an employment card She continued her love of art by Collection, and obtained a “job” for him as an fear for their lives daily. Early in family members on both sides becoming a commercial artist Holocaust 1945 Alsace and Lorrraine were had communicated with the Museum & office clerk in a forestry industry. and married Dr. Austin Tashma, Learning In April, against the wishes of his freed from German domination, Schweichs while in France, such an optometrist, on December Center, Jewish and all of France was liberated. as Henriette’s sister and her great Federation new friends, Schweich returned to 24, 1958. The reception was at of St. Louis) Lavaur to gather his family. Marlene Herbert celebrated by getting aunt, it was members of Herbert’s Schneithorst Restaurant. Upon was quite safe in the convent, but now 11-year-old Marlene a bicycle, distant family, Julius S. Schweich her death in 1986, the family Henriette refused to leave. Thus, something he had promised years and Edward S. Schweich, who wanted her obituary to be not Herbert and his mother (with before. That same year the family provided affidavits to help clear only a tribute to her and her short her new, false identity papers began to get letters from the In- the way for the family to come life (she died at age 51), but also a under the name Emilienne Savet) ternational Red Cross that family to the U.S. Herbert, Henriette, recognition of her father who had As per their contingency plan, returned to Meillant. It was April members in St. Louis and Dallas and Marlene arrived in St. Louis died 10 years earlier—the man Herbert exited the attic window, 1944. Herbert Schweich, former were looking for them. They on June 8, 1948. who helped them survive against crossed the landlord’s roof, and began to write, and packages spring/summer ’19

pg. 13

SO MUCH TO LEARN: It rained hard a few days before Anne Dye Tracing the Current Keller injected dye into the Halbrook Branch of Upper Gladden Creek in the Meramec River Landscape, Part III headwaters. She estimated that it was running at about 75 gallons per minute over a low water bridge in Dent County. A half-mile downstream by quinta scott of her injection point, the stream dried out and remained dry for several miles. She recovered her packets from Welch Spring with positive results.1

Tuesday November 10, 1818: It was Henry Rowe Schoolcraft Millions of years ago the the edge of a prairie where we had described the progression of Ozarks region was a peneplain, halted. Wood was rather scarce; but landscapes in the eastern Current a relatively flat plateau, across we made shift to build a good fire. River watershed in the journal he which the rivers the Meramec, kept as he explored the Ozarks the Current, the Gasconade, Wednesday November 11, 1818: In in 1818 and 1819. He began his and others meandered. At passing two miles, we crossed a small tour in Potosi; traveled south least 320,000,000 years ago, stream running south-east, which through the Cortois and Huzzah maybe more recently, a slow uplift evidently had its source in the little valleys; crossed the West Fork of pushed up the plain. The rivers lake at our last night’s encampment. the Black River to the headwater responded by cutting deep val- Welch Spring: Halbrook The trail beyond this was often faint; streams of the Meramec; crossed leys, maintaining their meanders Branch of Upper Gladden upland savannas pockmarked by and leaving behind remnants of Creek-Meramec Headwaters in the course of eight or ten miles, we began to ascend elevations covered little lakes (sinkholes); entered the peneplain—Schoolcraft’s with pines, but of so sterile and hard the forested lands that clothe prairies—on ridges between a soil that we lost all trace of it. We the valleys of Current River watersheds. All are relatively level wound about among those desolate tributaries; and descended plains, where local relief is seldom pine ridges a mile or two, till, from through their sheer valleys to the more than 100 feet. Sinkholes one of the higher points, we descried river itself. He crossed the river litter all. Some deliver water to a river in a deep valley, having a just south of Montauk Spring. underground systems. Major dense forest of hard wood, and every Schoolcraft described the tributaries to the Current, Big indication of animal life. Overjoyed Current River landscape of 1818 in and Spring Valley creeks, which at this, we mended our pace, and, by much the same way the Missouri are also losing streams, head at the dint of great caution, led our pack- Department of Conservation barren (prairie) edge and deliver horse into it. It proved to be the river (MDC) would describe it in 2002 water to springs. In Schoolcraft’s Currents, a fine stream, with fertile when it published its Atlas of time, stubby post oaks grew on banks, and clear sparkling waters. Missouri Ecoregions and defined it fragipan, poorly drained soils on - henry rowe schoolcraft, 18182 as the Current River Hills ecoregion. the ridges. Today, we find cattle grazing on fescue pastures. The MDC named such landscapes Oak Savanna/Woodland Plains. spring/summer ’19

pg. 14 On the process of selecting a dye injection site: pg. 15 “It is based on lots of field work and lots of walking the hollows of the Ozarks. It is a combination of art and science, and an ability to understand the land and how it functions.”

The MDC described much as 250 feet. At the end River, Schoolcraft crossed narrow, the forested breaks remain intact. This is the last of a three-part The third part explores Schoolcraft’s “desolate pine of the nineteenth century, rugged ridges that dropped down Hardwoods covered the river series on our undetstanding of the Current River country, its ridges” as the Oak-Pine loggers moved in and stripped as much as 500 feet along steep floodplain, which is lined in tall Ozark National Scenic Riverways prairies, its losing tributaries, Woodland/Forest Hills, where the woodlands. Today, dense slopes, anchored by oaks, into bluffs. Huge springs, which draw in the Current River watershed and its springs. Again, Thomas the soil is cherty. Historically, a second-growth oak and or oak- the fertile Current River Valley. water from all parts of the since 1964. The first covered the Aley’s work guides us through woodland mix of oaks and pines pine forests dominate the hills. The MDC named this region the watershed, feed a steady stream establishment of the Ozark the landscape. In 1973 Aley covered the rolling hills, where Current River Oak Forest Breaks. of water to the river. 3 National Scenic Riverways and completed the Hurricane Creek the landscape rises and falls as As he approached the Current Unlike the oak/pine woodland, our early forays into understanding project, opened his Ozark its watershed. Research began Underground Laboratory at in 1912 when Thomas Jacob Protem, Missouri, and began Rodhouse measured the flow of working as a consultant on the Current above and below Big hydrogeology, caves, and the Spring and continues to this day. management of karst regions. One Between 1968 and 1973, Thomas of his first clients was the Ozark Aley conducted his study of the National Scenic Riverways, for Hurricane Creek watershed and whom he delineated the recharge delineated the extent of the areas of the springs that feed Big Spring Recharge area. The the Current River. Schoolcraft’s “desolate creek, a classic losing stream and pine ridges” a tributary of the Eleven Point River, delivers water through subterranean channels that run under the drainage divide between the Eleven Point and the Current to Big Spring, a tributary to the Current River. Aley’s conclusions focused on the interplay between land use on the surface and groundwater quality.4 Sunklands Conservation The second part discussed Area: the Doe Run applications to McHenry Hollow mine lead in the Hurricane Creek watershed and the explosion of research that followed. It Tom Aley described the focused on the efforts of the U.S. process of selecting a dye Geological Survey to map the injection site: “It is based on lots karst landscape of the Current of field work and lots of walking River watershed between 1995 the hollows of the Ozarks. It is and 2001. The project provided a a combination of art and science, geological inventory of the Ozark and an ability to understand National Scenic Riverways. the land and how it functions. The Missouri Department of Losing stream segments are often Conservation sorted out the ideal locations. They are best progression of landscapes in the when most or all of the flow of watershed, catalogued it its Atlas the stream is sinking in a very for Missouri’s Ecoregions, and localized area. This often means published maps in 2002. that you need to be there during or shortly after rainstorms. You spring/summer ’19

pg. 16 pg. 17

“No Dumping.” Montauk Spring Brook so said a sign at the sinkhole.

don’t always guess right and may springs and assessed areas that disbursed and emerged from get to a point you have selected are hazardous to the water several smaller pools, gravel bars, only to find that conditions are quality of each spring. In a second and creek beds. Walk along not suitable. contract in 1977 and 1978 he the creek that emerges from delineated the recharge areas of the spring. “You will see water “You also need dye introduction springs north of the Jacks Fork springing from very small points that will give you as much and west of the Current. In 1982 ponds, from seeps, from its useful information as possible. Aley crossed the Current and gravel bed.” If you are concerned with began tracing the sources of protecting water quality, then a springs in its eastern watershed The sources of Montauk site downstream of a source of and north of U.S. 60. By the time Spring puzzled geologists for contaminated water is routinely he and Catherine Aley published decades. It puzzled geologists more useful than a site way out in their Groundwater Study: Ozark James Maxwell and David the woods somewhere. A site National Scenic Riverways in 1987, Hoffman. In the fall of 1971 the near the potential boundary they had conducted at least one pair toured the region east of between a couple of recharge trace of every major spring that Licking for their study of Water areas is more useful than a site feeds the Current. They included Resources of the Current River and where it is pretty obvious where a series of maps delineating the speculated on suitable places 5 the water is likely to go.” recharge areas for all major springs.6 where they could inject dye the following spring. They ruled In 1972 soon after the out Monty Spring, which spills dedication of the Ozark into a stream that cuts through a Montauk National Scenic Riverways in steep-sided hollow, where beaver and Welch Springs: 1971, the National Park Service had built a dam across the stream. results: positive, but very weakly “No Dumping.” So said a sign demonstration of the role of Bean Creek embarked on a series of studies They considered a huge sinkhole, positive. Aley considered, for the at the sinkhole; so said Tom Aley. sinkholes and losing streams in the Injection Site on management of the new park, 600 feet wide northeast of first time, that the springs in the Aley concluded his Hurricane contamination of groundwater including a groundwater study Licking, which drained Current River watershed share Creek study by noting: came in 1920 when the of the Current River watershed. runoff from the surrounding recharge areas. A decade later when Mid-Continental Iron Company Aley’s earlier Hurricane Creek pastureland and could carry water he recovered contradictory weak Protection and management disposed of waste isopropyl study for the U.S. Forest Service into a subterranean system.8 results from injection sites at the of the springs and rivers of the alcohol in Davis Creek, a losing prompted the fifteen-year effort head and foot of Gladden Creek, study area requires protection stream, filled with sinkholes. The to delineate the recharge areas of April 18, 1978, Tom Aley took and management of the land east of the Current, he concluded tributary to these features. alcohol showed up in Big Spring, the major springs on the Current up the Montauk Spring puzzle in that Current River springs often It is impossible to manage which carried it to the Current River. He worked from his Ozark his study of water resources west share common recharge areas.9 the spring effectively without River, which fouled the drinking Underground Laboratory in of the Current River. He injected managing the land, which water of the City of Doniphan, Protem. His first client was the eight pounds of dye into an supplies recharge water for 30 miles downstream.10 University of Missouri-Rolla, unnamed tributary of Bean Creek. the springs. In the study area, Pigeon Creek and Montauk and in many other soluble where he worked on Round The creek meandered across the Right outside of Licking and Spring form the head of the Montauk rock lands as well, the surface Spring with James Maxwell, a Current River. The creek and the woodland plain near Licking at Spring: and the subsurface are an a half-mile north of the site of geologist with the Water river provide the only surface the rate ten gallons per minute. Cameron intimately integrated system. Aley’s Bean Creek trace, Cameron Road The surface affects the Resources Research Center water found in Montauk State He placed charcoal packets in Sinkhole Road dodges a sinkhole in the Trash subsurface and vice versa. at the university. Park. Losing sections of the both Montauk and Welch springs. Similarly, surface management woodland plain, a natural place creek‘s upper reaches contribute The dye first showed up in affects the subsurface; to inject dye. In September 1986 With his work with Maxwell water to the spring.7 Montauk on May 1. It also showed subsurface management Marian Gooding, a naturalist at finished, he began performing affects the surface. up in Welch Spring two days later. Montauk State Park who worked contract work for the Ozark Or is it Montauk Springs? Big surprise. And it showed up in with James Vandike, a geologist National Scenic Riverways on a In 1892, heavy rains and flooding an unnamed spring in Bean Creek Sinkholes and losing streams with the Department of regular basis. Between 1975 and washed gravel into the bedrock on about May 10. Only when he can speed contaminants directly Natural Resources, did just that. 1976 he delineated the recharge opening of the spring, clogged it, viewed the packets under very into the underground system and She recovered her charcoal packet areas of Alley, Round, and Pulltite but did not plug it. The spring intense light could he read the foul groundwater. The earliest in Montauk Spring two weeks later.11 spring/summer ’19

pg. 18 The spring spews from a cave at the rate of pg. 19 229 cubic feet per second and turns the river from a lazy stream into a first class float.

Welch Spring: Description of Welch Spring coming out of a cave on the Current River New Harmony, Missouri 32 boggy place, lined with the Mark Twain National Forest. Maybe 43 days of sampling fine-grained sediments rather Water carried the dye a mile and was not enough. Yes, but a than coarse gravel. a half downstream at 10 gallons wave of storms after May 12 per minute, where it sunk into the should have flushed the dye into Nevertheless, he set his gravel bed of the losing stream. the underground system. Maybe Anne Keller, a master’s downstream of Welch Spring, the that run though woodlands; packets in Welch Spring. Not She recovered her packet from the dye went to places they didn’t candidate in geology at the third largest spring in Missouri Gladden Creek, a broad losing until May 4th did dye show up Welch Spring.15 sample, such as other springs Missouri University of Science and and the second on the Current stream bordered by forests.13 at the spring and with weakly along the Current. Maybe the Technology, confirmed Gooding’s River, for a very good reason. The positive results. For 64 days after The confluence of two losing layers and layers of deep sand and trace. During a thunderstorm spring spews from a cave at the For visitors to the central the March injection Aley streams, Standing Rock Creek and gravel in the creek bed soaked in May 1999, she poured nine rate of 229 cubic feet per second Ozarks, the prairie ridges, where continued to receive weak results. Gladden Branch, forms Gladden up the dye and it never entered pounds of dye into a stream of and turns the river from a lazy cattle graze in fescue pastures, He attributed his results to his Creek, a tributary of the Current the underground system to water, spilling into the sinkhole stream into a first-class float. are places to get through on the less-than-ideal site and River. The large losing stream Cave Spring. at 20 gallons a minute. She Welch Spring’s 214-square-mile way to someplace else: Montauk speculated that because it is in maneuvers a serpentine hollow recovered her dye packet at recharge area reaches under Spring or Round Spring or the the northern-most reach of the through woodlands into the forest In 1985, Aley injected six Montauk Spring, almost eight the Ozark Plateau divide and new Echo Bluff State Park along Welch recharge area and the breaks and drains the region east pounds of dye into the head of miles from the sinkhole. into Meramec drainage area. Sinking Creek. South of Salem, Meramec River topographical of the Current. Gladden Creek just south of the Missouri, 19 crosses Missouri 32 basin, the dye might have been confluence of Standing Rock Sinkholes, 284 of them, pockmark If the New Harmony injection Keller’s focus, however, was riding the ridge that separates the diverted to other springs to the Creek and the Gladden Branch, its recharge area. When it rains, site was anything but ideal for a Welch Spring, not Montauk. The Gladden Creek watershed from north and northwest. He where water ran at 75 gallons per those sinkholes drain surface Welch Spring trace, the Gladden four additional traces she ran for water into the underground the Sinking Creek watershed, recommended further study.14 minute. He set his dye packets her thesis delineated the extent eastern tributaries to the Creek site, just north of the Dent/ in four places: Welch and Cave system. So do losing streams. Shannon County line, was. The of the Welch Spring recharge Historically, poorly drained Current River that supply water springs and Gladden Creek at area, which reaches north and to Welch and Cave Springs. spring was only 17,900 feet away. KK Road in Dent County. Finally, fragipan soils hosted post-oak The water ran at the site at 20 east of the Current and into the barrens. Welch spring draws Along the way, it cuts across Welch he set packets in Montauk Spring Spring: gallons per minute and continued losing streams that form the its water from a variety of plains in the Meramec watershed to test whether it draws water 12 Wofford to do so for all 43 days of the May Meramec headwaters. landscapes: fragipan soils that and woodlands in the Current Branch of from the east side of the river. the Upper 1982 trace. Eight gallons of dye have been converted to pasture; watershed, and finally enters the Welch Spring tested strongly Paddlers on the Current Meramec should have shown moderate or gravel-bedded losing streams Current River Forest Breaks. positive within three weeks. River put in at Akers Ferry, just It crosses the Current River at even strongly positive results at Montauk Spring tested negative. Round Spring and continues its Welch Spring. twisting way south. Tom Aley’s 1978 trace at On May 12, 1982, the Aleys Bean Creek had alerted him Above Missouri 32, the injected their dye into Gladden to the possibility that a single Meramec is a gaining stream as it Creek and set their packets in losing stream could deliver Welch and Cave springs and two water to two, maybe even three, draws water from its headwater tributaries. Below Missouri 32, its other places. The dye promptly different springs.16 sank into the sandy and gravel headwater tributaries are losing In 1999, Anne Keller studied streams. The sinking creek at New creek bed and showed up, with At 19, Jerry Vineyard Welch the New Harmony trace and Spring Harmony on 32 was not your weakly positive results, at Cave descended into Devils Well for replicated Aley’s trace without Spring. Why? the first time. Five years later, in conventional injection site. success. However, her trace in the On March 23, 1982, when Tom Wofford Branch of the Upper Aley mixed the dye for the New Meramec extended the limits of Harmony trace, he decided to use the Welch Spring recharge area. Welch more than normal. The stream— It rained heavily on the night Spring: a tributary of Dry Creek, a losing Gladden of May 4. The next day, Keller Creek stream in the Meramec Basin— dropped dye into the Wofford flowed at a mere 15 gallons per Branch of the Meramec, which minute. Aley’s dye seeped into the threads a densely treed hollow in underground system through a spring/summer ’19

pg. 20 pg. 21 The Pulltite Springs complex, Round Spring, and the Current River Springs complex all deliver water to an 11.3-mile stretch of the Current.

Pulltite Spring Complex: 1961, Vineyard—now a geologist, Barren Fork. He left enough The Pulltite Springs complex, Lower Big Creek working on his master’s thesis packets in Cave Spring to study Round Spring, and the Current at the University of Missouri— the results for three months. By River springs complex all deliver conducted the first Missouri dye day 35 he had strongly positive water to an 11.3-mile stretch of trace to a Current River spring results, but negative in the month the Current. This series of springs that used a charcoal packet to after that. However, he uncovered draws from overlapping recharge absorb dye. He was almost certain weakly positive results over areas that extend to the the well and the spring were the next five weeks, which he western limits of the Current River connected. He secured a packet in attributed to a second trace he watershed. Some of the springs in Cave Spring on the Current River made to Cave Spring. the Current River complex rise in and dropped the dye in Devils the river and are difficult to trace Well—a mile away. He waited a The Pankey Branch, a losing back to their sources. Aley used week for the dye to show up in stream, runs through Asbridge those that rise in its floodplain to the spring. Thomas Aley’s traces, Hollow, a pretty, narrow green trace the sources of the complex. made in the last decades of the hollow. Horses, a possible source twentieth century, demonstrated of groundwater contamination, The Pulltite Spring complex that Cave Spring shares graze near its head. About a mile —Pulltite, Fire Hydrant, Gravel, parts of its recharge area with from its head, a spring in its Boiling Sand, and two unidentified west bank delivers water to it. springs between Pulltite and Welch Spring. River; at Pulltite, Fire Hydrant, Downstream a young bottomland Lewis Hollow—draw water from Pulltite Spring Gravel, and Boiling springs in forest finds anchor in its alluvium. the Sunklands and the dissected Photograph by Jennifer Swab, the Pulltite complex; and at Cave, region to the west. Tom Aley (Courtesy of Welch, and Montauk springs. On July 17, 1998, Anne Keller performed four traces on the the Ozark poured five pounds of dye into the National Scenic When he collected the packets complex from different sites, in Riverways) Cave Spring spring and set her charcoal packets two weeks later, all results proved Photograph 1976, 1978, and two in 1986. by Joyce in Cave Spring. The stream negative save the weak results Hoffmaster, carried the dye a mile downstream Big Creek rises at the eastern from the Pulltite complex, which Cave Research Foundation at the rate of 75-100 gallons per edge of the Summerville Savanna surprised him. He had expected minute. It disappeared into coarse Plain outside the Current River strongly positive results for all gravel near the Bedwell Cemetery, Hills, flows northeast across the springs in the Pulltite complex. Like Gladden Creek, Sinking never to reappear. Pankey Branch dissected Current River Plain, He repeated the trace on April Creek collects water from a series ran dry beyond the losing point. and reaches its confluence with 27 and added six additional sites of losing streams and delivers it Tom Aley noted when he made the Current four miles north of to his test. He recovered positive to the Current River. Two traces his 1982 trace at Pankey Branch Welch Spring. 1978, Tom Aley injected eight July 18, with very strongly results, strongly positive, 26 years apart proved that its that the creek ran dry to within pounds of dye into the confluence positive results at all sites. only from springs in the Pulltite losing branches deliver water to a half-mile of its confluence with Aley chose two sites along the of Big Creek and Dry Bone Creek complex. Given their results Cave Spring. 17 Missouri KK in Texas County Big Barren Fork. creek to run traces. On June 16, in rough country west of the from traces at two sites along Sunklands. He left carbon packets drops more than 200 feet through Big Creek, Aley and Chaney Tom Aley delineated the in Alley Spring and the Pulltite the Current River Woodland concluded that the creek recharge area of Cave Spring 21 Spring complex. The Alley Plain and through the Current delivers water only to the years after Vineyard’s 1961 trace Spring packet proved negative. River Forest Breaks to Lower Big Pulltite complex. and demonstrated that it draws Cave Spring: Pankey Branch When Aley retrieved his packets Creek. Sycamores, bottomland water from east of the Current of the Big in the Pulltite complex on June trees, line its narrow bank. Everett When Chaney added up the River. On March 9, 1982, Aley Barren Fork, Asbridge 27, his results were negative. Chaney, Aley’s associate on the mean annual flow of each of the dropped dye in the Pankey Branch Hollow However, the packets at Lewis ONSR project, twice injected springs in the Pulltite complex of Big Barren Fork of Sinking Hollow showed very weakly dye into the creek at its crossing plus the unidentified springs Creek in Dent County. He placed positive results. He placed with KK road. On April 2,1986, he between Pulltite and Little charcoal packets in Welch Spring, additional packets in the springs set packets at multiple sampling Fields Hollow, he came up with a Cave Spring, others along the in the Pulltite complex on the stations: Round Spring and above recharge area of 223 square miles, Current south of Cave Spring, 27th and left them there until its spring branch on the Current using the formula of one square as well as two places along the spring/summer ’19

Fire Hydrant Spring emerges from a pg. 22 pg. 23 cave about three feet above the Current River. (Photograph by Scott House, Cave Research Foundation) “Suddenly, there was a roar of water...”

Pulltite Complex to Current River Complex: Round Spring Sunklands Conservation Area, Aley attributed these results On June 1, 1978, Tom Aley Sinkhole Pond to groundwater discharge from injected six pounds of dye into the springs in the hollow. He had mouth of George Hollow, which found an explanation for the was running at 40 gallons per “black holes” in the channel of the minute from a spring in the Current River and the Current hollow. He set his packets in River complex.22 Round Spring, at the mouth of Mill Hollow Spring Valley Creek at the Round Creek- For the untutored, Round Current River Spring campground and at the Spring Complex Spring should stream out from mouth of Root Hollow. The results under the natural arch of everywhere were very weakly Eminence Dolomite, the remnant mile of recharge area for every to drive through it. At the core of of river between Pulltite and positive. He set a second set of of a collapsed cave. Not so. When cubic foot of discharge. It’s a the natural area is the Sunkland, Barn Hollow Spring. The trace packets in Round Spring on June the roof of the Round Spring region that covers both the Big the collapse of a massive cavern, demonstrated that the Pulltite 15 and left them through June 26, cavern collapsed, it revealed a 24 Creek watershed and the a depression in the landscape, complex shares a portion of its with strongly positive results. 18 spring, rising in a circular basin. Sunklands Conservation Area. almost a mile long and 600 feet recharge area with Round Spring Boulders from the fallen roof wide, containing a sinkhole or a and the Current River complex, blocked the underground channel Sunklands Conservation Area series of sinkholes, some dry, some whose existence was unknown that supplies the spring, preventing Round Spring: straddles the irregular boundary filled with water. A mile away in until April 1978, when Aley “Suddenly, there was a roar of Spring Valley between the Summersville Oak divers from exploring the conduit water and the previously dry bed Creek, George the Burr Oak Basin, Tom Aley injected dye into a losing section Hollow Savanna/Woodland Plain and the 21 beyond a depth of 55 feet. of Spring Valley, by which we had performed two dye traces in one of Mill Hollow Creek. Current River Oak-Pine Woodland camped, was filled with a rushing of three sinkholes, clustered Round Spring rises in its Forest Hills. In December 1991 Tom Aley made two traces in torrent 4 to 10 feet deep and 30 to together. The first, in March circular basin and streams under the Nature Conservancy and 1976, one from Cox Cave and the 100 feet wide.” Edward Seymour 1976, yielded inconclusive the arch to its spring brook, which the Missouri Department of other from the Sunklands. He Woodruff encountered Spring results. The second, ten years carries it to Spring Valley Creek Conservation signed a deed for 20 set his packets in springs in the Valley Creek when he camped later, yielded stunning results. and the Current River. The spring the purchase of 80,819 acres from Pulltite complex and saw no by it in 1908. It’s a classic losing draws water from a 119-square-mile the Kerr-McGee Corporation Everett Chaney performed results. The dye had disappeared stream that rises on the savanna/ Spring Valley Creek rises in the recharge area and flows at the in Shannon, Carter, and Wayne the second trace on December 5, into a “black hole.” Two years woodland plain west of Summerville Plain and meanders rate of 46.9 cubic feet per second. counties. Kerr-McGee had 1986. He dropped his dye in water, later, he trekked down into Mill Summersville and loops across across the Current River watershed managed the land conservatively, which was overflowing a small Hollow, deep in the Current When Missouri set up its the hills in the Sunklands to its confluence with the Current, selectively cutting instead pond at the rate of five gallons per River Forest Breaks, where water system of state parks in the 1920s, Conservation Area. It makes a straight-line distance of about 18 of clear-cutting its timber. minute. It carried Chaney’s dye trickles over rocks to the Current Governor Arthur M. Hyde and one final large horseshoe turn at miles. It loses water to both Alley Therefore, the Nature into a sinkhole, one of three in the River at the rate of 0.1 cubic feet his fish and game commissioner, George Hollow before streaming Spring on the Jacks Fork near its Conservancy was comfortable cluster in Burr Oak Basin. He set per second. At noon on April 5, Frank Wielandy, looked to the past tall bluffs near its mouth. head and Round Spring on the

negotiating a deal for $10.1 million. his packets in 14 places, including 1978, Tom Aley injected dye into Ozarks, where land was cheap, Current River near its mouth. Monsoon-like rains at the end It planned to sell some of the land the springs in the Pulltite a losing section of the stream. the natural landscape intriguing, In April 1978, Tom Aley located of April 2017 flooded the Current to the Missouri Department Complex and Round Spring. It showed up the next morning and therefore, the interest great. an injected site on Spring Valley River landscape, including its of Conservation and retain some The dye showed up first in Fire in springs at the mouth of Mill While Big Spring, the first park, Creek west of Summersville. He 19 many losing streams. By mid-May, for its own nature preserves. Hydrant Spring. Soon after he Hollow with very strongly came into the system in 1924, injected eight pounds of dye into water still flowed in losing streams recovered positive results from positive results. It also showed a year before Hyde left office, a spring branch 50 feet north of Almost half the MDC land like Spring Valley Creek. Normally, Pulltite, Gravel, and Boiling Sand up at the mouth of Root Hollow Round Spring did not until 1932. its confluence with the creek. went into the Sunklands it would not take three weeks springs in the Pulltite complex. with very weakly positive results In 1967, the State of Missouri gave The dye disappeared into the Conservation Area, 37,440 acres to drain floodwater at George The packet he set in Round two weeks later. The trace did Round Spring, Alley Spring, and losing stream. He placed charcoal of the Kerr-McGee acquisition. Hollow. Normally, in May, young Spring showed weakly positive not show up in Round Spring. Big Spring, all state parks along packets in both Blue Spring on The MDC reserved 5,700 areas crops would be sprouting on the results. Finally, dye showed up in the Current and Jacks Fork, to the Jacks Fork and Alley Spring. within the area as a natural area, Because he suspected that the agricultural fields that line the packets in springs in the Current the National Park Service for His trace arrived about two weeks off limits to logging, motor homes, dye at Root Hollow came from creek. But the April 2017 showers River Complex, downstream of inclusion in the Ozark National later at Blue Spring, 47,500 feet wooden structures, and human surface water, he left packets in were no gentle spring rain, and Round Spring, giving him positive Scenic Riverways.23 away, and showed weakly positive occupation, though it is possible results on an 11.3-mile stretch place. They absorbed more dye. the hollow remained flooded well results. His results at Alley Spring into May. spring/summer ’19

pg. 24 pg. 25

Spring Valley Creek West of fifty isolated knobs of rhyolite, Rocky Creek, meandered across Summersville- Blue Spring lies at the center of the Ozarks them. When the knobs uplifted, (Jacks Fork) and Blue Spring National Scenic Riverways. Much the streams maintained their Alley Spring Access, like the Early Cambrian seas, courses and simply eroded canyons Jacks Fork which deposited the Lamotte and into the saddles between the knobs Bonneterre Formations between and removed the sedimentary the knobs of the St. Francois rocks clear down to rhyolite, Mountains, the Late Cambrian forming shut-ins. Or possibly, seas seeped between the igneous the streams eroded headward, knobs of the Eminence Caldera encountered a knob, found a weak and deposited the Potosi and place in the volcanic rock, and Eminence formations on the carved a narrow canyon, a shut-in, valley floors and the Gasconade through it. While Rocky Falls In his 1930 study of the and Roubidoux formations above. looks more like a waterfall than a Eminence and Cardevara The Current flows past or threads classic shut-in like Johnson’s Shut-in quadrangles, Josiah Bridge tells between the knobs: Jerktail, Coot, in Reynolds County, the creek the story of the day Alley Spring Wildcat, Williams Mountains, wore down the Eminence and stopped flowing for twelve and various unnamed knobs. It Gasconade formations between hours. It seems a large sinkhole bends to the south at Owls Buzzard and Mill mountains to were very weakly positive during had algae blooms. I mean big ones. By 2016 the pasture that had formed and plugged the Bend and flows south, touching form a unique shut-in.31 the same two-week period. They occur all up and down the surrounds the Horton Davis underground conduit with muddy the eastern edge of a series of However, the trace yielded river on both prongs. They get so sinkhole on the Summerville plain debris. When flow resumed, knobs: Mill Mountain, Thorny strongly positive results two bad in the summer that when they had turned to scrub. Trees mud flowed into the spring. It Mountain, Stegall Mountain, 29 weeks later. The dye streamed at die and float to the top, you just grow on its sides. Not so on took days for it to clear. and more unnamed knobs. a rate of 211 feet per hour over can’t fish. Huge algae blooms. November 1, 1972. a straight-line distance, or 76,000 And they were not there two years Thomas Aley tells a similar The geological maps of the Alley Spring feet between the creek and the ago. Seems like it starts in late It rained hard the day Thomas story with a different conclusion. Eminence Caldera, particularly the Alley Spring.25 July and then they bloom Aley and Everett Chaney dropped In April 1974, flow from Alley Stegall Mountain map, show and there’s just this green stuff ten pounds of fluorescein dye in Spring jumped to 2,750 cubic that pockets of Cambrian Blue Spring shares its that’s everywhere.”26 the Horton Davis sinkhole, which feet per second (cfs) after a heavy sedimentary rocks are scattered catchment or recharge area with is 30 to 40 feet deep. Theirs was rain, 1,700 cfs more than the between the knobs. The Late Alley Spring, and, while much of A National Park Service study the first attempt to define the previous peak recharge of 1,060 Cambrian seas flooded in, the Alley Spring recharge area of water quality on Jacks Fork Alley Spring recharge area. Water cfs in March 1935. Aley noted deposited the Potosi, Eminence, is forested, much of the area and Current rivers showed that drained off the surrounding that losing streams have a finite Gasconade, and Roubidoux it shares with Blue Spring has springs in general had the highest pasture into the sinkhole at the rate recharge capacity. Once exceeded, formations, and buried the knobs. been cleared for pasture. The concentrations of nitrates, and of two cubic feet per second and their surplus water flows on the The streams, be it the Current Jefferson City-Cotter formation, Alley Spring topped the list. The ponded there to a depth of 15 feet. surface. Hence, if losing streams River, the Jacks Fork, or even pockmarked with sinkholes, study concluded that springs are While Aley and Chaney recovered were incapable of delivering such dominates its catchment area. more likely to show the effects of their charcoal packets from a huge quantity of water to Alley Hydrologists suspect that land use in their watersheds than Alley Spring November 9, they Spring, it must be the sinkholes rain, washing off pastures into do the rivers they feed. Hence, figured the dye had arrived that surround Summersville. He sinkholes and underground if Alley Spring shares part of its around November 5. The packets concluded that gullies lace the channels, can carry non-point catchment with Blue Spring and showed a moderately positive sinkhole plain and carry water to Alley Spring: pollution to Blue Spring and much of that area is devoted to result. The dye had traveled the sinkholes, like the Horton Davis, Horton Davis the upper Jacks Fork. Algal pasture that has been fertilized 58,100 feet at the rate of 605 feet which form a “large capacity Sinkhole blooms follow. with nitrates, then Alley Spring an hour and confirmed that the spring system capable of rapidly will have higher levels of nitrates Summerville Plain forms the transporting subsurface waters.”30 Jack Toll, speaking to oral than other springs.27 recharge area for Alley Spring. 28 historians with the U.S. Geological South of the confluence of Survey in 1993, noted, “We never the Current and Jacks Forks rivers, the Eminence Caldera, spring/summer ’19

pg. 26 pg. 27

The Osage called it the “Spring of the Summer Sky,” for its deep blue color...

strongly positive results at Mill a bluff of Eminence Dolomite, generate power. Four years later The 1962 McIntire-Stennis that the hydrology of the Spring, 4.5 miles away and looks so still, but its spring brook hydraulic engineer Henry Claus Act funded the Watershed Hurricane Creek watershed was at Big Spring 12.4 miles away, rushes 90 million gallons of Beckman issued a report that Barometer Study within the U.S. too complex to allow lead mining straight-line travel. They water a day a quarter mile to concluded that Welch, Blue, and Forest Service. Thomas Aley’s to go forward. In the following Rocky Falls Shut-in concluded that Big Spring and the Current River. Big springs deliver enough water Hurricane Creek Barometer years the USX proposal set off Mill Creek Spring share a to the Current to maintain a study provided a template for the an explosion of research into the recharge area.32 Blue Spring draws its uniform flow. He determined that study and management of karst landscape of the Ozark National water from Logan Creek, a losing given good dam sites, south of its landscapes. Aley began his work Scenic Riverways. The following March 19, tributary of the Black River. Once confluence with the Jacks Fork, on the karst landscape of the Chaney injected dye into a losing water disappears into the sinks of the Current could be harnessed Current River four years later. Between 1995 and 2001 section of Upper Sycamore Creek the creek, it must pass under the for waterpower.33 After he completed the study in geologists mapped the karst north of Winona. He placed divide between the Black River 1975, Aley went on to trace the landscape of the Current River packets in Mill Creek, Big, Plum and Current River watersheds. It In 1924 Missouri made Big recharge areas of the major Hills. The project provided a Springs, and Mill Creek upstream discharges through Blue Spring Spring its first state park. Twenty springs along the Current River, geologic inventory of Ozark of Mill Creek Spring. For the at an annual flow of 140 cubic years later, Beckman and geologist a study he and Catherine Aley National Scenic Riverways, a first week, his results proved feet per second. Using the rule of Norman Shreve Hinchey completed in 1987 for the geology-based park. In 1998, negative. He continued testing. thumb of one mile to one cubic published Large Springs of National Park Service. geologists mapped out land use When he recovered packets from foot of discharge gives the spring Missouri, a guide to state parks in Current River Hills: what is Plum Spring in the Peck Mill Spring, 12.4 miles away, a 140-square-mile recharge area. centered around springs, directed When, in 1983, USX, formerly forested, what is open, what is Ranch Conservation Area draws and Big Spring, 19.4 miles away, Divers have probed its depth to to tourists, scientists, educators, U.S. Steel Corp, and Amax cultivated, and what is urban. its water from Upper Sycamore three week later, his results were 256 feet. and residents who draw their Exploration applied to the U.S. Collaborators with the MDC,

Creek north of Winona. The moderately positive. His results water from springs. They provided Forest Service for permission to the University of Missouri Tom Aley started work on spring overflows into Mill Creek, from Plum Spring, 7.7 miles from readers with an understanding of explore for lead deposits in the Department of Forestry, the U.S. the Hurricane Creek watershed, where water falls into the Upper Sycamore Creek, were the underground drainage systems Big Spring recharge area, the Geological Survey, the National expecting its losing sections to 34 underground system again and very weakly positive. that feed water to the springs. Aleys noted in their 1987 study Park Service, and Nature deliver water to Greer Spring, shows up in Mill Spring outside When Aley and Chaney a tributary of the Eleven Point the refuge. Upper Sycamore also examined the flow records of River. It didn’t. He started looking delivers water to Mill Spring, and Mill Creek Spring, they learned for the “missing water.” When Upper Sycamore, Plum Spring, that on November 20, 1942, flow he conducted his Blowing Spring and Mill Creek Spring all deliver at the spring dropped to zero trace in the bed of Hurricane water to Big Spring. Two traces when Big Spring was flowing at Creek in 1968, the “missing water” Mill and Big established this complex scenario. 594 cubic feet per second. When spilled into the subterranean Springs: Plum Spring-Peck On August 1, 1984, Tom Aley they received the results of the system, crossed under the Ranch 1985 trace, they concluded that drainage divide between the Conservation and Everett Chaney cleared Area away a beaver dam that plugged Big Spring is pirating water from Eleven Point and the Current a culvert on Mill Creek in the its shared recharge area with rivers, and emerged from Big Peck Ranch refuge and increased Mill Creek Spring. That a small Spring. Of the 34 traces Aley ran its flow from 5 to 55 gallons per amount of dye showed up in Plum during the Ozark National Scenic minute. Next, they poured in Creek in 1985 only adds to the River project, 13 wound up in six pounds of dye and set their complexity of the underground Big Spring, two in Greer Spring. packets in Pike, House, and drainage system of the Big Spring Missouri’s interest in Big Mill creeks a well as Mill and recharge area. Spring started with Thomas Jacob Big Springs. About a half-mile The Osage called it the Rodhouse’s 1912 study of the flow upstream of their injection site, “Spring of the Summer Sky,” for of the Current River above and Plum Spring supplied the surface its deep blue color, a product of below the spring, which proved it water for the creek at the rate of its depth and the load of dissolved a tributary of the river. In 1923, 1.5 cubic feet per second. Aley and limestone and dolomite carried the state ordered a survey of water Channey had no results by August through its underground channels. resources that might be used to 6, but by the 22nd they had The spring, emerging from under spring/summer ’19

pg. 28 pg. 29

ENDNOTES

1 Anne Elizabeth Keller, “Hydrologic 10 Thomas Aley, “Predictive Hydrologic and John G. Schumacher, Geohydrologic Blue Spring and Dye Trace Study of Welch Spring, Model for Evaluating the Effects of Investigations and Landscape Missouri,” A Master’s Thesis in Land Use and Management on the Characteristics of Areas Contributing Geology and Geophysics, University Quantity and Quality of Water from Water to Springs, the Current River, of Missouri-Rolla, 2000, 72. Ozark Springs,” Quarterly Journal of the and Jacks Fork, Ozark National Scenic Missouri Speleological Survey (1978), Riverways, Missouri (U.S. Geological 2 Henry Rowe Schoolcraft, Scenes and 141–53; Bridge, Geology of the Eminence Survey, Scientific Investigations Report Adventures in the Semi-Alpine Region and Cardareva Quadrangles, 40. 2009-5138), 6, 42, 50. of the Ozark Mountains of Missouri and Arkansas (Philadelphia: Lippincott, 11 Missouri Department of Natural 24 Aley and Aley, 3-27, 4-24. Grambo & Co., 1853), 56, 223. Resources, GeoSTRAT, Karst, Missouri Dye Traces Paths, A KMZ file that 25 Aley and Aley, 4-14-18. 3 Josiah Bridges, Geology of the works with Google Earth to locate the Eminence and Cardareva Quadrangles sources of springs through dye 26 Robert B. Jacobson and Alexander T. (Rolla: Missouri Bureau of Geology and traces, Vandike, 1987. Primm, Historical Land-Use Changes and Mines, 1930), 53–54; Charles G. Spencer, Potential Effects on Stream Disturbance Roadside Geology of Missouri (Missoula, 12 Keller, “Hydrologic and Dye Trace in the Ozark Plateaus, Missouri (U.S. Mont.: Mountain Press Publishing Study of Welch Spring, Missouri,” 73-6, Geological Survery Water-Supply Paper, Company, 2011), 140–41; Timothy A. Nigh 1 26-7; Missouri Department of Natural 2484, 1993), 56. and Walter A. Schroeder, Atlas of Resources, GeoSTRAT, Karst, Missouri Missouri Ecoregions (Jefferson City: Dye Traces Paths, Keller, 1999. 27 David L. Vana-Miller, Water Missouri Department of Conservation, Resources Foundation Report, Ozark 2002), 127–28, 160–65, 168–69, 172–73. 13 Nigh and Schroeder, Atlas of National Scenic Riverways (Fort Collins, Missouri Ecoregions, 108, 165. Colo.: National Park Service, Water 4 Kenneth Chilman, David Foster, and Resources Division, April 2007), 36. Thomas Aley, “River Management at 14 Aley and Aley, 4-33-5. Ozark National Scenic Riverways,” 28 Aley and Aley, 4-14-18. Big Spring in William Lee Halverson and Gary E. 15 Keller, “Hydrologic and Dye Trace Boil Davis, eds., Science and Ecosystem Study of Welch Spring, Missouri,” 76, 29 Bridge, Geology of the Eminence and Management in National Parks 79, 87. Cardareva Quadrangles, 41. (Tucson: University of Arizona Press, 1996), 303–35. 16 Aley and Aley, 3-35, 3-49-50, 4-33-4. 30 Aley and Aley, 4-14-18.

5 Email, Tom Aley, April 7, 2017. 17 Aley and Aley, 3-30, 3-35; Keller, 31 Thomas R. Beveridge, Geological “Hydrologic and Dye Trace Study of Wonders and Curiosities of Missouri 6 Email, Tom Aley, June 6, 2017. Welch Spring, Missouri,” 79, 87. (Rolla: Missouri Department of Natural Resources, 1990), 39; R. W. Harriso, 7 Thomas Aley and Catherine Aley, 18 Aley and Aley, 3-56-60, 4-27. R. C. Orndorff, and D. J. Weary, Groundwater Study, Ozark National Geology of the Stegall Mountain 7.5 Scenic Riverways, Vol. 1, Text, Prepared 19 Tom Ulenbrock, “Ozarks Tract Sold quadrangle, Shannon and Carter for the National Park Service under to Conservationists,” St. Louis Counties, South-Central Missouri (U.S. Contract 6000-4-0083, Protem, Post-Dispatch, December 19, 1991, 01A; Geological Survey, Geological Missouri: Ozark Underground “Conservation Areas Near Current Investigations Series, 2002); Ozark Trails Laboratory, 1987, 4–37; Don E. Miller and River Get New Names,” St. Louis Association, Current River Section, James E. Vandike, Groundwater Post-Dispatch, December 21, 1994, 5. http://www.ozarktrail.com/current- Serve mapped the vegetative This article would not have and Joyce Hoffmaster of the Resources of Missouri (Rolla: Missouri river-2/. communities in the Current River been possible without the help Cave Research Foundation. Department of Natural Resources, 20 Aley and Aley, 3-34, 3-60, 4-27-30. Hills, which provided the model of Thomas Aley with the Ozark 1997), 71. 32 Aley and Aley, 4-6-7, 3-39-41, 3-46-7. Finally, geologists are a 21 Aley and Aley, 3-60-2. for mapping the rest of the state. Underground Laboratory, who 8 33 generous lot. Jerry Vineyard was James C. Maxwell, Water Resources of Henry Claus Beckman, Water The work culminated in the answered any questions I asked; the Current River Basin Missouri (Rolla: 22 Aley and Aley, 3-26, 4-20-1. Resources of Missouri, 1857–1926 (Rolla: 2002 publication of the Atlas of Dena Mattesen with the Ozark no exception. After I started Water Resources Research Center, Missouri Bureau of Geology and Mines, 23 Missouri Ecosystems. In 2009 National Scenic River, who researching and writing this series, University of Missouri, 1972), 5-1-3. Jerry D. Vineyard and Gerald L. Feder, 1927), 307, 343, 348. Jerry answered my questions and Springs of Missouri (Jefferson City: geologists turned to Thomas arranged for Jennifer Swab’s 9 Aley and Aley, 3-26-7, 4-33-4; David Missouri Geological Survey and Water 34 Henry Claus Beckman and Norman and Catherine Aley’s 1987 photographs of Pulltite Spring; allowed me to use the graphic Weary, Geological Map of the Montauk Resources, 1982), 85–86; Steve Kohler Shreve Hinchey, The Large Springs Groundwater Study of the Ozark Mike Gossett of the Ozark of Devils Well from his 1982 book Quadrangle, Dent, Texas, and Shannon and Oliver A. Schuchard, Two Ozark of Missouri (Rolla: Missouri Geological Springs of Missouri, written Counties, Missouri (U.S. Geological Rivers (Columbia: University of Missouri Survey and Water Resources, 1944), National Scenic Riverways National Scenic River, who Survey, 2015). Press, 1996), 65; Susan Flader, Exploring 24–36, 54. to investigate the geohydrologic provided me with copies of Aley’s with Gerald L. Feder. This article Missouri’s Legacy: State Parks and and landscape characteristics Groundwater Study of the Ozark is dedicated to his memory. Historic Sites (Columbia: University of of the recharge areas of major ; Missouri Press, 1992), 5; Art Homer, The National Scenic Riverways Drownt Boy: An Ozark Tale (Columbia: springs that feed the Current and photographers Scott House University of Missouri Press, 1994), 36; and Jacks Fork. Douglas N. Mugel, Joseph M. Richards, spring/summer ’19

pg. 30 pg. 31 A GATEWAY TO THE EAST: An Exploration of St. Louis’ Mexican History Through the Built Environment

by daniel gonzales In the early twentieth century, Mexican immigrants were attracted to the industrial Midwest as it provided ample job opportunities and lacked competition from previous generations of Mexican immigrants. Since that time, the population of Mexicans and Mexican Americans in the Midwest has continued to grow and diversify. Unfortunately, the long history of Mexican people in the Midwest has been tragically understudied.1

Mexican Mercantile Exchange—8th and Olive Streets. St. Louis faced the daunting task of rebuilding physically, socially, and economically This is particularly apparent in the St. Louis region. Contributing to this lack of attention may be in the years following the Civil War. A number of civic and economic leaders in St. Louis believed that the answer to economic recovery lay in trade with our southern neighbors in Mexico and Central America. The timing for this was right, as the Mexican regime of Porfirio Diaz United States Census records, which show only a small presence of Mexicans in the Gateway City was committed to a program of “modernization” that actively encouraged investment from the United States. The goal of trade in America and surrounding areas. Census reporting, however, seems to have undervalued the population’s size and was led by a man named John F. Cahill, who ran a mercantile drug business and had lived and worked in Cuba and Mexico. Cahill established 2 a bilingual newspaper in St. Louis and served as the city’s first Mexican Consul.A In 1883, he established a Mexican and Spanish American the significance of Mexican immigration to the region. Surveys done by community organizations, Mercantile Exchange. The exchange building was three stories tall and contained the offices of the exchange itself as well as a Spanish printing regional institutions, and mutual aid societies show that the population in the early twentieth century, office.B The exchange, along with the city’s other efforts, were hugely successful, making St. Louis the leader in commerce with Mexico 3 in the late nineteenth century with $7.5 million in trade.C (Image: Missouri Historical Society) as Mexicans began to enter the Midwest in significant numbers, was much larger than reported. spring/summer ’19

“Mexico has been represented pg. 33 for several years among the students of Washington University, St. Louis University, and Christian Brothers’ College . . . every time a young Mexican returns home he sends back two or three others to take his place in the St. Louis school.”

St. Louis Republic, 1893

Evidence also shows that region’s economic growth in the Mexicans in St. Louis were post–Civil War period.6 The trade distinct from other regional was driven by a number of populations in several key ways, institutions in St. Louis, including a such as their pattern of settlement Spanish-language newspaper socio-economic makeup. In called El Comercio del Valle addition, St. Louis Mexicans established in 1876, the Mexican contributed significantly to the Consulate established in 1878, and region’s economic development the Mexican Mercantile Exchange by facilitating the development established in 1883. All of these of strong trading ties with their institutions were spearheaded by country of origin. Lastly, the city John F. Cahill. A native of often served as a vital entry point Virginia, Cahill had moved to for Mexican immigrants into the Cuba in 1864, where he established larger region as employers in cities a retail drug business. He like Chicago, Detroit, and St. Paul left Cuba around 1871 after his used it as a distribution center property was confiscated in for Mexican labor.4 For Mexicans the wake of a rebellion against looking for work and new Spanish rule of the island. opportunity in the Midwest, Arriving in St. Louis the following St. Louis was often a gateway, not year, he opened a drug store to the west as it has traditionally at 6th and Chestnut streets been described, but to the east. and became involved in local commercial networks.7 The first major avew of Mexican immigration to St. Louis began The trade that Cahill fostered around 1910, but small numbers of helped bring an increasing, if Mexicans were living in St. Louis still modest, number of Mexican in the nineteenth century, immigrants to the St. Louis as a robust trading relationship region. It is estimated that there developed between the two were roughly 100 Mexicans regions.5 That trade, which living in St. Louis in 1893. In amounted to more than $7 million that same year, the St. Louis annually by the 1890s, was an Republic reported that “Mexico Boxcar Community in North St. Louis. In the neighborhood of Baden on the extreme northern edge of St. Louis, a group of Mexican immigrants established a community built out of boxcars and other makeshift structures. The community spread out along the railroad line important part of the St. Louis has been represented for that ran parallel to the Mississippi River.D The families living there received mail through a nearby store and used a central fire hydrant as their water source.E The Zuñigas, Agustin and Jesus, were one family living in this community. Their son, Agustin Jr., remembers it as a happy time. He said his family struggled financially, but explained, “when you are a poor family you don’t know any different. You are just happy to have a roof over your head, and your family and friends.”F (Image: Missouri Historical Society) spring/summer ’19

pg. 34 pg. 35

Our Lady of Covadonga–7100 Virginia Avenue. Beginning in 1912, a “Spanish Mission” was established responding to the influx of Spanish immigrants as well as refugees from Mexico after the Mexican Revolution.G By 1915, the “Spanish Mission” had become well enough established to acquire its own building at the intersection of Virginia and Blow.H The building had originally been constructed around 1890 for use by the Methodist Church of Carondelet.I Once occupied by the “Spanish Mission,” it became known as Our Lady of Covadonga, in honor of a legend attributing the Spanish defeat of Muslim invaders in 722 at the Battle of Covadonga to the Virgin Mary. The first priests of the congregation were Father Jose Pico Jover and Father Jesus Ceja. Ordained in Mexico, both men arrived in St. Louis in 1914.J The parish was roughly 30 percent Mexican, with most remaining congregants coming from the neighboring Spanish colony.K The church closed in 1920, and the building was purchased by the Rosati Council of the Knights of Columbus as a Club House. At the urging of community members, the Rosati Council opened the building to be used as a “Spanish Mission” once again. This time the church continued until 1932. During that time there were a total of 183 baptisms and 43 weddings. Each year there were roughly 2,000 communions and confessions.L (Image: Jeffrey Smith)

several years among the students Several of the early Mexican By the late 1910s and into the of Washington University, St. residents in the St. Louis region 1920s, immigration from Mexico John F. Cahill / El Comercio Del Valle. John F. Cahill moved to St. Louis from Cuba in 1871, and published El Louis University, and Christian were members of the Mexican accelerated as refugees were Comercio Del Valle (Commerce of the Valley) Brothers’ College . . . every time Liberal Party. These men were joined by economic migrants. starting about five years later until 1890.He distributed his paper, published in both Spanish and English, both a young Mexican returns home radical dissidents who opposed These immigrants were locally and in Mexico. In St. Louis, La Revista Mexicana he sends back two or three others President Porfirio Diaz, the increasingly attracted to the (The Mexican Magazine) competed with the paper, and La Union de America (The Union of America) appeared in to take his place in the St. Louis dictator of Mexico. The group, industrial Midwest as World War the 1888 City Directory. Note the engraving of the school.” 8 The influx of students which gained a great deal of I and changes to immigration St. Louis and Illinois (or Eads) Bridge on the masthead—a symbol of progress in St. Louis in the last quarter of the was certainly tied to trade, but it attention in the local and national law in 1917 and 1924 led to a nineteenth century. (Images: Missouri Historical Society) also appears to have been fostered press, were dubbed the “St. Louis labor shortage in the region.15 by prominent Mexican citizens in Junta.”11 The ideas they St. Louis. Chief among them was promoted would inspire leaders During this period St. Louis, Isabel Sandoval, the daughter of like Francisco Madero, who would perhaps because of its existing Clito and Amelia Sandoval. The eventually lead the revolution Mexican community or its position Sandovals were a wealthy family that would overthrow the along the rail line, became an that had taken up residence in Diaz regime, beginning the important distribution center for St. Louis around 1890. Isabel was Mexican Revolution.12 Mexican workers to other areas 16 successful in using her family’s of the Midwest and beyond. The business and political connections When the Mexican Revolution distribution of workers out of St. in Mexico to develop a reputation began in 1910, the trade that had Louis was managed by a handful in St. Louis. The growing number developed between St. Louis of employment agencies. The of aristocratic Mexicans living and Mexico flatlined. The number two largest seem to have been the and connected through trade to of Mexicans coming to the Griswold Employment Agency St. Louis continued to grow into city only accelerated, however. and the Model Employment the twentieth century.9 The high This attraction of refugees led (sometimes Labor) Agency, both Several of the early Mexican residents level of wealth that was present newspapers from North Carolina located around Market Street among the earliest immigrants to to Oregon to report in 1913 that between 8th and 11th. In 1927, the in the St. Louis region were members of the St. Louis sets it apart from the “St. Louis is today being called the Model Employment Agency alone foundational populations in other chief exile for wealthy Mexicans. . recruited ten thousand Mexican Mexican Liberal Party. These men were 13 midwestern cities like Chicago . .” These early migrants helped laborers to and through St. Louis. radical dissidents who opposed President and Detroit, whose earliest Mexican establish a Spanish-language These agencies would advertise immigrants came as economic mission, called Our Lady of for and recruit workers from Porfirio Diaz, the dictator of Mexico. migrants in the decades following Covadonga, in the Carondelet Texas and northern Mexico and 14 the Mexican Revolution.10 area of South St. Louis. bring them to St. Louis aboard trains and later on busses.17 spring/summer ’19

pg. 36 pg. 37

In the 1910s and 1920s, a significant Mexican community developed just across the Mississippi River from St. Louis. One of the largest concentrations of Mexican immigrants could be found in the Lincoln Place neighborhood of Granite City, Illinois. Here, many Mexican people found work with the nearby steel mill. In 1926, the Mexican community in Granite City organized the Mexican Honorary Commission, a mutual aid and heritage society. The organization provided aid to destitute members of the community and organized a number of cultural events, including fiestas that were often attended by local residents, both Mexican and not.M Eventually, the organization was able to purchase a building at 1801 Spruce St., which had previously served as the Hungarian Home, a center for immigrants from Hungary. The organization continues to operate from that location today. (Image: Jeffrey Smith)

While for many Mexican community grew in this period. They came in there with [night] immigrants St. Louis was only Census records are unreliable, sticks poking you in the stomach, a temporary stop on the way and other surveys vary widely. the ribs, anywhere with big to their intended destination, For example, estimates from authority. Abusing their In 1943, by the 1910s and 1920s the Catholic Church and authority.”23 Additionally, the the permanent population the International Institute, who Mexican Consulate in St. Louis dealing with of Mexicans and Mexican surveyed only the City of St. explained in a 1932 report, “things a wartime labor Americans living in the region Louis, put the numbers around are worse this year than last, and began to grow significantly.18 2,000-3,000.20 However, the jobs are hard to find. Plus the shortage, Globe-Democrat reported in employers want to hire Americans Unlike in other Midwestern 1934 that the population in the and Europeans before Mexicans. the federal enclaves, St. Louis Mexicans 1920s had been as large as 15,000 . . . taking into consideration only never developed a significant across the region.21 men work, it can be calculated government population center. Instead, they that 40-50% are unemployed.”24 settled in a disparate pattern Unfortunately, as the influx As a result of these realities, many established the across the region with most of the of Mexicans to St. Louis reached took the opportunity to repatriate population in St. Louis City and its zenith, the Great Depression to Mexico, a move encouraged “Bracero” a few communities in the Metro decimated the nation’s economy. by government policies.25 The Mexican workers in the Midwest were often attracted by the region’s booming East and St. Louis County. This Mexican immigrants were hit Guest Worker industrial sector.N In St. Louis Mexican workers found opportunities with a community did not begin to number of employers. In a study done on St. Louis City’s Mexican community by settlement was possible because particularly hard. In St. Louis, rebuild until after World War II. Program. the International Institute in 1929, only one company is mentioned by of the availability of affordable Mexicans faced discrimination in name as a large employer of Mexican workers. That company, American Car and Foundry, seen in these two views, was a manufacturer of streetcars.O One housing near places of employment, hiring and reported harassment by In 1943, dealing with a wartime oral tradition about early Mexican immigrants to St. Louis explains that for many and motivated by the reality that police.22 Severo Guerrero explained labor shortage, the federal the words “American Car” were among the first they learned in the English language.P (Images: Missouri Historical Society) immigrants were attracted to his experience: “We had an awful government established the St. Louis to work in a number of time with the citizenry and also “Bracero” Guest Worker different types of employment, with the cops. . . . Wherever the Program.26 This program, which not concentrated in just one.19 cops saw two or three Mexicans operated until 1964, brought together he came in here and he significant numbers of Mexican It is difficult to accurately didn’t come talking like they do immigrants to the area to work in estimate how large the Mexican now saying ‘will you do this sir?’ agriculture in the west St. Louis spring/summer ’19

pg. 38 pg. 39

communities of Chesterfield, In the early 1950s, the Perhaps because of these Manchester, and Centaur (now community was again set back by challenges, history and historic part of Wildwood).27 Employers a program of mass deportation preservation advocates have not including Hellwig Brothers and dubbed “Operation Wetback.” previously sought to identify and Raumbach Farms employed The program targeted commemorate sites of relevance not only Bracero guest workers, undocumented immigrants, but to Mexicans and Mexican but also Mexican American it led to the expulsion of a large Americans in St. Louis. While migrant workers. Estollio Abella number of legal residents and understandable, this is certainly worked for Hellwig’s Farm for citizens.31 The government not satisfactory as Latinos, more than a decade. He began estimated that they had rounded with Mexicans as the majority, when he was nine years old, up more than a million people continue to grow as a percentage putting in 12–14 hours a day. nationwide, including some from of the region’s population. Estollio remembered his the St. Louis region.32 experience, saying, “the housing was kind of poor, the Mexicans The growth of the population didn’t want to stay there all year. continued, however, as Mexican Want to read I had seen how the people looked immigrants began to arrive when they reached 50 years old, at a never-before-seen this article rate in the second half of the over worked, run down, and in Spanish? spent.”28 Despite these challenges, 20th century and into the early 21st century. Today, We’d be happy to send it to you! some found better opportunities You can find it on our website: and made St. Louis and other Mexicans represent the www.lindenwood.edu/confluence areas of the Midwest their largest portion of the region’s 33 permanent home. Abella found foreign-born population. This Click the Spring/Summer 2019 tab, click opportunities in Indiana still-growing community has on the article, scroll down and you’ll see a tab for “Spanish Language Version.” 29 become a vital part of the area, and Ohio. Click that, and PDF that you can read, Several Mexican musicians developed a following in St. Louis during the 1940s, establishing businesses and save, and print will appear. 1950s, and 1960s. One of them was the Santa Cruz Orchestra, a Mexican jam band made As Mexican immigrants continuing to broaden the up of brothers from the Santa Cruz family. According to one of the members, Enrique (Henry) Santa Cruz, one of the primary venues for Mexican music was the continued to arrive, earlier waves cultural fabric of St. Louis and ¿Quiere leer este artículo en español? Ratskeller of the German House. He reported that he played there for eight-nine of Mexican immigrants were surrounding areas. ¡Se lo enviaremos encantados! Puede years in the 1950s and 1960s.Q Additionally, for a portion of the period, a Mexican restaurant and bar operated in the basement of the venue.R putting down deeper roots, and encontrarlo en nuestra página web: (Image: Missouri Historical Society) Despite the more than a generation of St. Louis–born www.lindenwood.edu/confluence Mexican Americans began to 100-year history of Mexicans in Haga clic en la pestaña Spring/summer develop. Mexican culture became the region, identifying historic sites for the community in the 2019, haga clic en el artículo, desplace As Mexican immigrants much more visible to the broader el cursor hacia abajo y verá una pestaña community at this time. Clubs, built environment is challenging. que dice “Spanish Language Version.” continued to arrive, musical groups, and restaurants One reason is the way that early Haga clic ahí, y aparecerá un PDF que began to be established as the Mexican immigrants settled. As puede leer, guardar o imprimir. earlier waves of Mexican Mexican community sought discussed above, Mexicans in to share their heritage through St. Louis did not concentrate on immigrants were putting music, dance, and food.30 a particular neighborhood; instead, they found affordable down deeper roots, and a housing near their places of work. Mexican communities generation of St. Louis-born also were often displaced, Mexican Americans making it hard to establish began to develop. long-lasting institutions. spring/summer ’19

pg. 40 pg. 41

ARTICLE ENDNOTES CAPTION ENDNOTES

1 Juan R. Garcia, Mexicans in the 13 “Exiled Mexicans,” Durham (N.C.) 24 Informe proteccion 1932. IV-333-3. A John Francis Cahill. MS, Mexican G “Rosati Council’s Spanish Mission.” N Garcia, Mexicans in the Midwest. Midwest: 1900-1932 (Tucson: University Morning Herald, July 30, 1913. Archivo Histórico Genaro Estrada. Commercial Exchange Papers, Missouri Silver Jubilee Rosati Council No. 795 of Arizona Press), 2003. Acervo Histórico Diplomático. Secretaría History Museum Archives. Knights of Columbus Souvenir Program, O Eldridge and Torres, Report of the St. 14 Address List for Our Lady of de Relaciones Exteriores. 27 1928–1929. Louis International Institute, 5; “American 2 U.S. Census Bureau, “Foreign Born Covadonga Congregation, 1923. MS, B Postcard, Mexican and Spanish Car Company (St. Louis).” American Population St. Louis City and County, Our Lady of Covadonga, Archives of the 25 “Text of the President’s Message to American Mercantile Exchange, ND, H “Spanish Colony Opens Its Church,” Car Company. April 9, 2006. Accessed 1930.” Social Explorer. Web. July 27, 2015. St. Louis Archdiocese, Saint Louis. Congress,” St. Louis Post-Dispatch, Mexican Commercial Exchange Papers, St. Louis Republic, September 17, 1915. April 05, 2016. http://www.midcontinent. December 2, 1930; Informe proteccion Missouri History Museum Archives. org/rollingstock/builders/american_ 3 Annual Report of the International 15 Juan R. García, Mexicans in the 1932. IV-333-3. Archivo Histórico Genaro I Michael Allen, “Central Carondelet carco.htm. Institute, 1925. MS, International Institute Midwest: 1900–1932 (Tucson: University Estrada. Acervo Histórico Diplomático. C Michael A. Ridge, “The Future Great Historic District,” National Register of St. Louis Papers, State Historical of Arizona Press, 2003), 27–28. Secretaría de Relaciones Exteriores. 28; City of the World Seeks to Fulfill Its of Historic Places Inventory/Nomination P Joan Suarez, interview with the author. Society of Missouri Research Center- “‘Deportation Special’ Stops in Destiny: St. Louis and Mexico, 1878–1911,” Form, Landmarks Association of St. Louis; Executive’s Annual Report 16 Valdés, Al Norte, 11.; Manuel Gamio, St. Louis,” St. Louis Post-Dispatch, Missouri Historical Review 106, no. 4 (July St. Louis, St. Louis, February 22, 2006. Q Henry Santa Cruz, interview with of the International Institute St. Louis, Mexican Immigration to the United March 17, 1935; La Coss, “Loyal 2012): 203–4; “Mexican Trade,” St. Louis the author, 2016. 1919–1920. TS, International Institute of States (New York: Arno Press, 1969), 27. Mexican Expatriates.” Post-Dispatch, February 20, 1895. J Jose Pico Jover and Jesus Ceja St. Louis Papers, State Historical Society Personnel File Appointments, 1915–1920. R Jim Merkel, Beer, Brats, and Baseball: of Missouri Research Center-St. Louis. 17 Florence W. Eldridge and Elena Torres, 26 “The Bracero Program.” UCLA Labor D International Institute Board Meeting MS, Our Lady of Covadonga, Archives St. Louis Germans (St. Louis: Reedy The Report of the St. Louis International Center, 29–Oct. 2015, www.labor.ucla. Minutes November 26 1926. MS, of the St. Louis Archdiocese, Saint Louis. Press, 2012), 67. 4 Dennis Nodín Valdés, Al Norte: Institute to the National International edu/what-we-do/labor-studies/ International Institute of St. Louis Papers, Agricultural Workers in the Great Lakes Commission on Mexicans in the Five research-tools/the-bracero-program/. State Historical Society of Missouri K Address List for Our Lady of Region, 1917-1970 (Austin: University of Leading Cities in the United States, 1929. Research Center-St. Louis. Covadonga Congregation, 1923. MS, Texas Press, 1991), 11; Manuel Gamio, TS, International Institute of St. Louis, 27 “Mexican Farm Labor Treated Worse Our Lady of Covadonga, Archives Mexican Immigration to the United State Historical Society of Missouri Than Prisoners of War,” 9/24/1954, E Annual Report of the International of the St. Louis Archdiocese. States (New York: Arno Press, 1969), 27. Research Center-St. Louis. Newspapers Clippings from Archive of Institute, 1919–1920. MS, the Archdiocese of St. Louis RG07816 International Institute of St. Louis L Alvin J. Baumann, “The Spanish 5 “The Spanish Language,” Brownsville 18 Ibid.; Annual Report of the Papers, State Historical Society of Mission of South St. Louis,” The Mariner, (TX) Daily Herald, January 5, 1893. International Institute. 1925. 28 Estollio Abella, interview with the Missouri Research Center-St. Louis. November 1932, Our Lady author, 2016. of Covadonga, Archives of the 6 “Mexican Trade,” St. Louis 19 “HeritageQuest Online.” 1920, 1930 F Agustin Zuñiga Jr., interview with St. Louis Archdiocese. Post-Dispatch, February 20, 1895. Census. Accessed August 14, 2017. http:// 29 Monty Montez, interview with the the author, April 15, 2016. www.heritagequest.com/ ; Eldridge author, 2016; “Mexican Farm Labor M Tresa Ortiz, “Mexican Culture in 7 John Francis Cahill. MS, Mexican and Torres, 1929 Report of the St. Louis Treated Worse Than Prisoners of War.” Lincoln Place,” Madison County Historical Commercial Exchange Papers, Missouri International Institute. Society News 3 (May 2015): 6. History Museum Archives. 30 Rynearson, Hiding within the 20 Thomas Matischock, C.M.F. to Rev. Melting Pot. 8 “The Spanish Language.” John J. Glennon, D.D., Archbishop of St. Louis. November 26, 1934, Archives 31 Juan Ramon Garcia, Operation 9 “Wants St. Louis to Get Her Share of of the St. Louis Archdiocese, St. Louis, Wetback: The Mass Deportation of Mexican Trade.” St. Louis Post-Dispatch, Missouri. International Institute Board Mexican Undocumented Workers in 1954 January 31, 1907; Memorial Volume of the Meeting Minutes, November 26, 1926. (Westport, Conn: Greenwood, 1980). Diamond Jubilee of St. Louis University MS, International Institute of St. Louis 1829–1904, Saint Louis University, Papers, State Historical Society of 32 Ronald L. Mize and Alicia C. S. Swords, 1905; Bulletin of Saint Louis University. Missouri Research Center-St. Louis. Consuming Mexican Labor: From the Vol. IV. Series 6. Saint Louis: Saint Louis Bracero Program to NAFTA (Toronto: University, 1909. 21 Louis La Coss, “Loyal Mexican University of Toronto, 2011); “33 Mexicans Expatriates,” St. Louis Globe-Democrat Held Here in Roundup of ‘Wetbacks’,” St. 10 Gabriela F. Arredondo, Mexican Sunday Magazine, October 7, 1934. Louis Globe-Democrat, February 12, 1952. Chicago: Race, Identity, and Nation, 1916–1939 (Champaign: University of 22 T245 Interview with Rodolfo V. Siller 33 U.S. Census Bureau. “2009–2013 Illionis Press, 2008), 4–5; Carol McGinnis, and Gonzalo and Severo Guerrero, American Community Survey Michigan Genealogy: Sources & 1973. MS, Oral History Collection, State 5-Year Estimates” Resources (Genealogical Publishing Historical Society of Missouri Research Company, 2005), 221. Center-St. Louis; Ann Manry Rynearson, Hiding within the Melting Pot: Mexican 11 “The Thrilling History of the St. Louis Americans in St. Louis, 1980, 10; Informe Junta,” St. Louis Post-Dispatch, proteccion 1932. IV-333-3. Archivo December 16, 1906. Histórico Genaro Estrada. Acervo Histórico Diplomático. Secretaría de 12 Philip R. Mueller, “The Mexican Liberals Relaciones Exteriores. 27 in St. Louis: 1905–1906” (Master’s thesis, Southern Illinois University at 23 T245 Interview with Siller and Carbondale, 1983, 1–50. Gonzalo and Severo Guerrero, 1973. spring/summer ’19

pg. 42 pg. 43 New Perspectives On May 17, 1849, St. Louis was ravaged by a huge fire that burned much of the city’s business district. In one of the most dramatic incidents of the fire—and of the history of St. Louis—firemen set gunpowder charges with the intention of blowing up a row of six buildings to create a firebreak to eliminate fuel for the fire and prevent the destruction of the Old Cathedral. Thomas GREAT Targee, a captain of one of the volunteer fire companies, entered a building with charges, not knowing that gunpowder had already been placed there. The building exploded when Targee was still inside, killing him FIRE and making him a symbol for the sacrifice of St. Louis firefighters over of the century and a half since.

by bob moore

The Great Fire, Nathaniel Currier (1850) (Image: Missouri Historical Society) spring/summer ’19

pg. 44 pg. 45 I knew Phillips Store 4 or 5 years before the fire—I saw it on the night of the fire—I was there— Phillips Music Store as it looked before the fire. (Image: Missouri Historical Society)

The building that exploded his losses, they refused him, citing heard from witnesses was around Targee was the Phillips several procedural errors he transcribed in longhand. Music Store, located near made in providing them with 1 2nd and Market streets, a 2 2 the required information. Phillips Today we are used to seeing story former residential structure took them to court in a case that the transcripts of a trial, because converted to commercial use, as dragged on for many years. The a court reporter takes down every were many of the buildings in the records of the St. Louis Circuit word that is said. In 1850, this was riverfront area. A large portion Court—now under the care of the not the case; trials were recorded of Nathaniel Phillips’ stock of Missouri State Archives, which is with the barest descriptions of sheet music, musical instruments overseeing their restoration and plaintiff, defendant, motions (including several pianos and a preservation—contain many case made by counsel, and verdicts. harp), and military paraphernalia files of the period, but few are The lively exchange of human was lost in the explosion. anywhere near as thick as the file beings and their testimony is on the Phillips Music Store sorely lacking from the record, Phillips was insured for case. That is because Nathaniel except in the cases of written $10,000 with the Protection Phillips paid a stenographer to depositions prepared prior to a Insurance Company of write out longhand notes during trial. So the Phillips Music Store Hartford, Connecticut, but when the trials. All of the testimony case is exceptional. Interwoven he appealed for restitution for with testimony about the amount of stock that Phillips had in the store at the time of the fire is dialogue regarding the fire itself and the valiant efforts of Phillips and some of his friends to move his stock of merchandise to other locations before the fire arrived.

Initially, Phillips lost his case in the St. Louis Circuit Court in 1850, but on appeal the Missouri Supreme Court overturned the verdict in 1851 and returned the case to the Circuit Court for readers can fill in the blanks to get get any—there was great demand another trial, which was held a flavor for what the testimony Thursday May 30, 1850 for teams—I tried in vain for a in 1853. was like in its original form. They William Catherwood 1 for Pltfs. team—I lost my goods except $50 can also enjoy some dramatic worth + was not insured—I was at The transcriptions contain language regarding the fire itself. 2 the corner of Chesnut + Levee — fascinating testimony, including I knew Phillips Store 4 or 5 One other note—the dashes in Phillips secured a team—a 2-horse that by Thornton Grimsley, a years before the fire—I saw it the testimony, I believe, are areas sand wagon I think—have seen well-known St. Louis saddler, on the night of the fire—I was where the attorneys posed their the man since hauling sand—the who described his journey to there—my own place had burned questions, which were not written fire had then got up to Jacoby’s the St. Louis Arsenal to acquire + I was walking by there about 3 down. As a result, when reading nearly opposite 3 + it was very hot the gunpowder and his delivery o’clock A.M.—the fire was then these excerpts, readers are only as we began loading up—the wind of the powder to the vicinity at the N.W. corner of Main + seeing the responses and not the was from the north + blew the fire of the Phillips Music Store. Market and not there—Phillips questions. This testimony was over—then we began loading— Unfortunately, because the was there trying to get teams [of given between the dates of May Phillips, myself & Henry & one or testimony was taken down in horses and a wagon]—I told him 30–June 4, 1850, during the first two more—in that wagon Music longhand with pen and ink, it I thought the fire was coming trial of the Phillips case in the mostly went—some was down on reads more like hurried notes than there in answer to his inquiry + Walnut Street looking east from 3rd Street, 1848, by Thomas Easterly; Old Courthouse. the Old Cathedral is prominent on the left. The Phillips Music Store conversational dialogue; however, we bustled about + got teams—it was located behind the Cathedral on the next street to the north (left), was some time before we could Market Street. (Image: Missouri Historical Society) spring/summer ’19

pg. 46 pg. 47 The Fire House of Missouri Volunteer Fire Company #5, southwest corner of Olive and 3rd streets in 1842, with the company rushing to a fire. (Image: Missouri Historical Society)

The fire began about 10 o’clock— Daguerrist Thomas Easterly captured the arrival of a new fire engine with members of Union Fire Company The Great Fire, Henry Lewis (1858) No. 2 in 1852. (Image: Missouri Historical Society) (Image: Missouri Historical Society)

Map from the May 22, 1849 Missouri Republican newspaper; the green line indicates the Arch grounds, the red triangles the Arch. The Phillips Music Store was in Block 34, marked with the light blue square.

the counter & off of the shelves— that store except the 2 loads— I + Phillips were the first person Market St. the approaching fire— know when it raged worst—when minutes + then came back to assist we worked pretty hard—it was afterwards I saw goods which I think who took anything from it came nearer + nearer. I began moving the Town Hall him to move—he asked me at 1st getting hot there—we got a fresh I had seen before the fire in his store—this was about 3 I was on fire long before I could to help and I said I would soon load + I went up with it to his Phillips’ store—from the time I suppose—Phillips I know had Cross Examined. move my family. . . . 8 be back + assist—then when I house + while I was there another first spoke to Phillips up to the a Show case there but I didn’t returned we began to move—one load came + after getting off that I explosion of powder I don’t know observe it that night—part of the . . . I was near the corner and Re-Examined. of my brothers was there + a man returned + there was a cry of how long it was—not exceeding time Phillips was there + part of saw the fire raging so that Phillips’ in his store + a man painting powder 4 + I kept off—Phillips’ 1/2 an hour—I heard some talk of the time getting another team—I house on the opposite me was on It was near day before I could Regalias or printing music—there house [residence] was on Olive powder before I went up with the saw no military goods removed— fire—then came an explosion of get vehicles to move my furniture were no carts then there—we between 8th & 9th—I piled load—saw Targee 5 + heard him they might have been on the last gunpowder but in what building though I hunted very hard. . . . carried the things to a house on it was I couldn’t tell—I began the goods in the door + on the talking of it—we seized the load—I didn’t tell him to save his 9 market between 2nd + 3rd North stoop—then came the 2nd Music because easiest to get at— most valuable goods—I knew the to move my family between 12 James Shoeb for Pltfs. Side—I + my brother + the two load—partly music—I didn’t stay I seized the first things I could military goods were valuable— + one—I then thought Market others helped carry things . . . Phillips had his store in ’49 to unload—went across to my get hold of—The fire began about St. was in danger—I thought in Market St. between 2nd and home + then off downtown—but 10 o’clock—don’t know the hour nothing in all that region would Main—I was a musician by I couldn’t get to the store—there my store caught—I was at the be saved—the wind was N.E. + Friday May 31, 1850 profession + was often there— Monday June 3, 1850 was cry of powder & grimsly [sic] theatre—went up to the Virginia cinders fell—I took my family to 7 was there night of fire—about 10 was riding about warning every Hotel 6 with a person—Staid Frederick Kretschmar for Pltfs. Olive St. to Mr. Harts—I think Thornton Grimsley for Pltfs . 2 o’clock perhaps—the fire was body off—great confusion— there some time—had no idea of a man ought to have moved his I was in the city at the time then in the Hat Store opposite a I was present at Fire of ’49— notice was given that the buildings the fire reaching my store— goods between 12 + one—but of the fire—I was at the fire—my little below—Phillips was there I saw it directly after it struck in were to be blown up—I got hurried down + my store was on it was difficult to get help—I residence was opposite to the in front of the store—the door from the boats at Locust St— down only as far as 3rd Street fire—they got out most of couldn’t get drays to move my Paul House + I had to move my was open—at 1st I didn’t stop— had not reached Olive—about & there heard the cry—I know my stock of liquors in casks into furniture before daybreak—I got family—I watched as high up as I went home and staid 5 or 10 11 o’clock—I knew Phillips Store of no other goods saved from the street but they burned— carriages for my family—don’t spring/summer ’19

The Fire House of St. Louis Volunteer Fire Company #4, one of the ten volunteer pg. 48 companies that responded to the fire, was located at the southeast corner Locust and pg. 49 3rd Streets, 1841, by Charles Pond. (Image: Missouri Historical Society)

I was sent by the Mayor to the Arsenal for Powder

Thornton Grimsley. to blow up houses to stop the fire— (Image: Gateway Arch National Park) I procured 500 or 600 pounds—6 casks I think—

ever since established—6 or 7 ally [sic] were burnt down + all on was all in flames when I left for years—don’t know the number fire—several persons rushed up + the arsenal—I was insured— or the block—it was a brick house I drove them off + sent + reported I saved all I could—I never saw on south side of Market 2nd door to the Mayor that the Powder was a large fire before but I thought I think east of 2nd St—it was in there—Targee11 + George Morton12 that it went very fast—the wind a row called Mrs. Perry’s Row— had charge of the powder + Morton was blowing right high from the from Main to 2nd St.—that Row I think put it into Phillips’ Store N.E.—the fire companies were all burnt—don’t know when it by order of the Mayor—on the all broke down when the powder struck the Row—I was moving my north side it was ordered to be put was got—we rallied a company own things from Main between into Johnsons Do’ench + P’s house13 3 times—they were completely Olive and Chestnut—I was sent —an explosion took place in both disconcerted + there was lack of by the Mayor to the Arsenal for houses near the same time—all water I think—there was not Powder to blow up houses to stop the insides of the houses were the least probability of saving the fire—I procured 500 or 600 blown out + all the ballance [sic] Phillips’ Store—if not blown up pounds—6 casks I think— was burned up—nothing could it would have burnt up—I know perhaps two of 50 pounds each— be saved after the powder was the character of Phillips’ business didn’t notice the time of night in there I think—I proclaimed but not the amount—I bought all then—I brought it up 4th Street + in every possible [way] that kinds of military appurtenances kept it out + [of] sparks—brought everybody should get away— of him—gilt eagles, stars, laces— it down Elm to 2nd & then up to after fixing the train I brought costly—75 cts to $1.50 pr. yard Walnut—Phillips’ house was on the balance of the powder up to for laces—Some laces are higher fire + all the houses below were the Court House14 for safety—I than that—the laces I used for burnt + the opposite row of houses suppose Phillips was doing as ev- Saddle covers—he had customers Heroic portrait of fire captain Thomas Targee commissioned by the St. Louis Fire Department were on fire—I am satisfied that eryone else was + trying to save his in officers of the army—Swords many years after his death in the Great Fire of 1849. (Image: Missouri Historical Society) nearly all the houses below the goods—My house in Main St.15 + pistols—he also sold laces to spring/summer ’19

pg. 50 pg. 51

Thomas Easterly Daguerreotype of the fire damage; the steeple in the wind was quite Strong— this view is the Old Cathedral. (Image: Missouri Historical Society) as to danger to houses on Market St.

the priests for robes—I was in for the general officers burnt the east corner of Pine + Levee the Store very often + have been in my store. when I began moving—the wind a constant customer for 5 or 6 was quite Strong—as to danger years—I had been there recently Cross Examined. to houses on Market St, I didn’t before the fire—as to his stock I think my house in danger till it Don’t know when the fire Panoramic watercolor painting depicts the aftermath of a fire that destroyed much don’t know—he was often out + got very near—a block of brick lay of the St. Louis riverfront in 1849, showing burned out buildings, the wreckage of steamboats constantly missing articles I need- reached Phillips’ Store or when between the fire and me—there and damaged docks. Although often attributed to Henry Lewis, it is signed lower right it was burned up—my store was “Lemasson.” In the testimony, Lemasson was identified as an artist who worked for Phillips ed—just before the fire I suppose were no iron shutters on any of painting decorative work and scenes on items Phillips sold, including military items. he had as great a stock as usual— a Square + a half distant from the stores + no Slate roofs16 —I The St. Louis Mercantile Library, which owns the work, lists both artists. (Images: St. Louis Phillips’—the fire was coming in Mercantile Library Association at the University of Missouri-St. Louis) he had just furnished laces +c. don’t think I was gone over over

1 spring/summer ’19

pg. 52 pg. 53 I didn’t save my goods—I lost several thousand dollars—I saved nothing—we moved all our goods to another building called fire proof directly opposite during the fire but that burnt—

[sic] two hours to the Arsenal— my goods—I lost several thousand working—they were Shoab— Armstrong the Comptroller17 dollars—I saved nothing—we Werner + Catherwood—. . . we receipted for it—I was sick or I moved all our goods to another continued working until the house should have gone at first—many building called fire proof directly blew up—I was in the next Ally The Great Fire by Julius Hutawa, 1849. Although the fire started to the north (on the right) in the were appealed to but declined—I opposite during the fire but that [sic] behind the Cathedral—they commercial district, a southern fire began when the steamboat Edward Bates caught fire and went down as quick as my horse burnt—my goods were furnishing brought powder—I saw it— + touched the shoreline. Winds blew the blaze ashore where it caught the small homes and shacks of would carry me—I had never goods—shirts, drawers, +c., +c., - people got frightened + stopped primarily poor immigrants along with a candle factory. (Image: Missouri Historical Society) examined Phillips’ Stock—merely work—the powder was brought looked at it—he used to telegraph in at the back door—no one but for goods to come express for Tuesday June 4, 1850 myself was in at the time—I went me—I needed much—the laces once more up stairs—I heard 19 +c. for the equipments for the Francis Lammerson for Pltfs. Appolo [sic] Hall 20 opposite was general officers got by me just to be blown up but didn’t believe I knew Phillips’ Store for five before the fire of Phillips were it—only two persons were there years before the Fire—I was in costly—Stars $5 each—Eagles + they carried the powder in—I it after—every day—I was there $10—designed for the housings went up stairs once more to save at the night of the Fire—don’t of the saddle—not many were my papers—Drawings + Sketches know the exact hour—the fire used for each. —my work—they were in the 3rd was then burning on Main St.—it story in the drawer of my table— was at the corner of Market + E.N. Parker18 for Pltfs. I got them—I happened to think Main—I lived then below the city of it + particularly wanted the + I went up 2nd St. - went into a . . .—I was not at the store during things—this was when they began gate + saw shingles burning + went the fire—I saw it shortly after it rolling the powder in—at the to the hydrant + got no water + began—when the first boat moment I started up to get my then went into the green house + floated down stream + between papers they were just entering the broke open the door of Phillips Locust + Olive on Main I had my back door with the powder— Store —I helped Phillips—I took The St. Louis Volunteer Fire Department wore uniforms like these for parades, Store + watched the fire most— I knew it could be nothing else— but not for fighting the fire in 1849. (Image: Missouri Historical Society) Folios from the Shelves—as soon I was on the east midway of the I got only my papers—. . . block in business—I didn’t save as a wagon arrived I loaded it with the Folios—3 or 4 were there spring/summer ’19

pg. 54 pg. 55

ENDNOTES

1 Catherwood was the St. Louis merchant 3 This would be the store run by Charles 6 The Virginia Hotel, John H. Sparr, 12 George Morton, listed in the 1848 City 17 David H. Armstrong is listed as the who assisted Phillips in moving some of and Frederick Jacoby at 33 Market proprietor, was listed at the northwest Directory as living at 140 Spruce Street, City Comptroller in the 1848 St. Louis his stock before the Phillips store was Street. See the 1848 St. Louis City corner of Main and Green Streets (in the was one of St. Louis’ first practicing City Directory, introductory pages. engulfed in flames. As it transpired, the Directory, 122. area today known as Laclede’s Landing) architects. In partnership with Joseph building was blown up before the fire in Green’s 1851 St. Louis City Directory, C. Laveille, Morton formed the first 18 Edward N. Parker, of Parker & Co. reached it—but the result was the same. 4 A signal that the firemen were about 354, accessed online at http://repository. architectural firm west of the Mississippi The business was listed at 85 In the 1848 City Directory there is no to explode gunpowder charges and a wustl.edu/concern/texts/6h440v98r in St. Louis about 1823. His firm designed North First Street in the 1848 St. Louis William Catherwood listed, but there warning to all to take cover. not only the first courthouse for St. Louis City Directory, 180. is a Robert H. Catherwood, profession 7 Frederick Kretschmar is listed in the (1828), but also the Old Cathedral rectifier (maker of distilled liquors), 5 Much has been written about Thomas 1848 St. Louis City Directory, 136, (1834, the only one of their buildings still 19 Francis Lammerson was not listed in listed at the corner of Chesnut Targee and his death during the Great as “justice of the peace, office corner standing), the first Episcopal church the 1848 City Directory. He said in his and Front, which is precisely where Fire of 1849. The testimony presented Walnut and Second, residence on the northwest corner of 3rd and testimony that he lived “below the city,” Catherwood says his store was located in this insurance lawsuit refutes some 32 Walnut.” Chestnut (1825–1826), St. Louis that is, south of the city. in the testimony. Catherwood’s residence of the information usually cited about University at Christy and 9th streets, and is listed at Olive between 8th and his death. In particular, the final witness 8 The Town Hall was then located inside the first buildings at Jefferson Barracks 20 Apollo Hall was a rival store to the 9th streets. It seems likely that these quoted here, Francis Lammerson, states the St. Louis City Market Building (1826) south of the city. George Morton Nathaniel Phillips Music Store. Apollo Hall two men—William and Robert—are one that he was still in the music store on the fronting the river. Accounts of the period was born in Scotland in 1790 and was run by James Phillips (no relation to in the same, and that a mistake was second floor when “they began rolling say that the roof caught fire but that it immigrated to the United States, first Nathaniel, so far as is known) and was made either in the City Directory or in the [powder] casks in,” meaning that was extinguished quickly. The building settling in Pittsburgh. He moved his located at 39 Market Street, almost the court transcription. See the 1848 Targee entered the store after everyone survived the fire but was torn down by family to St. Louis in 1818. Morton directly across the street from the St. Louis City Directory, J.H. Sloss, else had left and the powder casks were 1852 to make way for new commercial first formed a partnership with Philip Phillips Music Store. The fact that two Printed by Charles and Hammond, Book already set in place. Thomas Targee buildings being built along the riverfront. Rochblave as carpenters and stores run by men named Phillips selling and Job Printers, Corner of Main and was born in New York City in 1808 and builders, but by 1823 was linked with almost identical merchandise and being Olive Streets, St. Louis, MO, accessed moved to St. Louis in October 1836. 9 James Shoeb is not listed in the 1848 Laveille. Morton also served as a city located across the street from one online at http://repository.wustl.edu/ He was an auctioneer, and he was later City Directory. As a musician he may alderman. In later years he retired due to another has been a source of confusion concern/texts/1544br47h, p. 50. appointed to the important and lucrative not have been a resident of St. Louis but ill health. Despite having single-handedly to historians. Apparently, it was also position of City Weigher, in which he was may have traveled frequently and rented designed most of early St. Louis’ most confusing to St. Louisans of the era; 2 The 1848 City Directory contains an in charge of weighing items shipped in a hotel room when in town. notable public buildings, in 1834 Morton advertisements for both music stores advertisement for the store: “Nathaniel and out of the city and charging fees and Laveille dissolved their partnership; take pains to state that they are “not Phillips, old established music & military and duties for them. He would have had 10 Thornton Grimsley is listed in the Laveille went into the lumber business, connected with any other Music Store in store, No. 42 Market Street, St. Louis, an office in the City Market Building and 1848 City Directory, 102, with “saddlery while Morton went into real estate. this city.” In the 1848 directory is an sign of the golden eagle. Piano Fortes, been in charge of the many large scales ware rooms, 41 north First, residence Joseph Laveille died in 1842, while advertisement for Apollo Hall which music, and Musical Instruments. The positioned along the levee. In that era it Fourth between Myrtle [Clark] and Elm.” George Morton lived until 1865. reads: “Has constantly on hand and for subscriber keeps constantly on hand the was fashionable for prominent citizens Grimsley was a nationally known figure, sale, at his Music and Umbrella Store, largest and most complete assortment to join volunteer fire companies— most famous for his design of new types 13 Do’ench & Pelloux, wholesale a complete catalogue of Vocal and to be found in the western country. St. Louis did not have a professional fire of saddles, first for the fur trade and druggists, were located at the Instrumental Music. Also, a large and well Travelers are particularly invited to department until 1857. By the time of then in 1833 for the U.S. military. The “northeast corner of Second and selected assortment of Piano Fortes, examine this stock, which will be sold at the Great Fire the city had ten volunteer Grimsley Saddle was the regulation army Market,” according to Green’s 1847 City among which are Grow & Christopher’s, eastern prices. CHICKERING’S PIANOS— companies. Targee joined the Union saddle for 26 years. Grimsley was born in Directory, Published by James Green, of New York, and Hallet, Cumston & These instruments, for superiority of Fire Co. in 1836, and in 1839 he helped Kentucky in 1798 and moved to St. Louis and Cathcart & Prescott, accessed Allen’s, of Boston. These manufacturers touch, readiness of tone, and elegance to form Missouri Fire Co. No. 5, where in 1822, where he was one of the leading online at http://repository.wustl.edu/ have received gold medals from the of workmanship, have always obtained he became a captain. According to businessmen and involved in community concern/texts/9g54xm452, 59. three last Fairs in Boston and New York, the Gold Medal, and are not equalled by historian Walter Barlow Stevens, Targee affairs. He raised a unit for service in for fine touch and good toned Piano any in the country. A most satisfactory “advocated the blowing up of houses the Mexican-American War but was not 14 Today known as the Old Courthouse. Fortes. Musical Instruments and Musical guarantee is given with every instrument in advance of the flames as the most called up for service. A Whig, Grimsley Merchandise. Umbrellas, Parasols, Canes, sold, and great care taken packing. Music effective means of stopping the spread.” served as a city alderman and in both 15 Grimsley’s saddlery business was And every variety of Fancy and Military published and constantly received from Accounts of his death state that “the the Missouri House of Representatives located at 41 North Main (or First) Street. Goods. Wrought, Shell and Buffalo all parts of the country. Seminaries, explosion was almost instantaneous, and and later the State Senate. Grimsley The 1848 City Directory contains an Combs, of new patterns; Work Boxes, Music Dealers, Military Bands and [that] poor Targee’s body was found in had ten children. His daughter Minerva advertisement for the establishment: Card Cases, Card Receivers, Jewel Boxes, Officers of the Army, supplied on the pieces here and there, his head being married Henry Taylor Blow, and their “Thornton Grimsley’s Patent Dragoon Jenny Lind Silver Candlesticks, Silver most reasonable terms. MASONIC AND discovered on the roof of a building daughter Susan Elizabeth Blow founded Saddle, Manufactured at No. 41 N. First Fruit Knives, Polka Bells, Fans, elegant ODD-FELLOWS’ REGALIA; ALSO— nearly a block away.” See Thomas Lynch, the free kindergarten movement in Street, St. Louis. All kinds of Military Dressing Cases, Odor Cases, Head FLAGS AND BANNERS, OF ALL KINDS, The Volunteer Fire Department of St. the United States. Grimsley died in 1861 Work constantly on hand, or made to Ornaments, Purses, Trimmings, & c. constantly on hand, and made to order. Louis 1819-1859 (St. Louis: R. & T. A. Ennis, in St. Louis. See the Lawrence O. order, at short notice.” 1848 St. Louis Dr. Ward’s Tooth Powder, of Boston; sole agent for CHICKERING’S PIANOS, J. 1880), 89, and Walter Barlow Stevens, Christensen, William E. Foley, and Gary City Directory, 290. This store was Lubin’s and Roussel’s Perfumery, & c. F. BROWN’S HARPS, AND CARHART’S St. Louis, the Fourth City 1764–1911, Kremer, eds., Dictionary of Missouri completely destroyed in the Great Fire. IMPROVED MELODIAN. This Volume I (St. Louis: The S. J. Clarke Biography, (Columbia: University of *The above establishment is not establishment has no connection with Publishing Co., 1911), 121. Missouri Press), 1999. 16 After the fire, buildings were mandated connected with any other Music Store any other in the city. All orders must to be built of brick in the business in this city. “Remember, there is but be addressed to N. Phillips, 42 Market 11 Thomas Targee, listed in the 1848 City district, with cast-iron shutters on the One Apollo Hall—39 Market Street.” Street.” 1848 St. Louis City Directory, 241. Directory as “city weigher, 67 Front.” windows and roofs of sheet iron or slate. 1848 St. Louis City Directory, 292. pg. 56

ABOUT THE AUTHORS

diane everman quinta scott daniel gonzales bob moore

Diane Everman is the In the years since she Daniel Gonzales earned Bob Moore has been the archivist for the Holocaust published The Mississippi his M.A. in museum historian for the National Museum and Learning (University of Missouri studies from the University Park Service at Gateway Center in St. Louis. She Press, 2010), Quinta Scott of Missouri-St. Louis Arch National Park since is also archivist for the St. has been documenting the in the spring of 2010 as an 1991. He holds a Bachelor Louis Jewish Community landscape of Missouri’s E. Desmond Lee Fellow. of Fine Arts degree from Archives as well as the Ozark. She has published Following graduation he Syracuse University, and corporate archivist for six articles in The Confluence began work as a researcher master’s and Ph.D. degrees Enterprise Holdings Inc. under the title, “So Much at the Missouri History in history from Washington Since 1985, she has to Learn.” The first series Museum. In 2013, Daniel University in St. Louis, participated in surveys, covered the establishment of took on the position of where he teaches as a senior archaeological excavations, the Missouri Conservation Museum Curator with the lecturer in American and research studies in Commission in 1937 and the St. Louis County Parks Culture Studies and the Israel, as well as in Greece work of its young biologists system, eventually being Graduate School of and Italy. She has a BA between its founding and the promoted to Historian for Architecture. He is the and MA in history from beginning of World War II. St. Louis County. In 2018, author of eight books, Oklahoma State University The second covered the he took the position of including The Gateway Arch: and a Ph.D. from University issues surrounding the Director of Exhibitions An Architectural Dream; of Maryland-College Park. springs that deliver water to Research at the Indiana Lewis and Clark: Tailor the Current River, including Historical Society. Made, Trail Worn; and Native the establishment of the Americans: The Art and Ozark National Scenic Travels of Charles Bird Riverways within the King, George Catlin, and National Park Service and Karl Bodmer. the threat of lead mining to the springs. This issue includes the last of the series, the sources of water for the springs, some of which extend beyond the Current River Watershed. 209 South Kingshighway Saint Charles, MO 63301-1695 www.lindenwood.edu/confluence LLC ©2019 Lindenwood University All rights reserved. Design: Michael Thede Design Design: Michael Thede All rights reserved. University Lindenwood ©2019