©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd Bangar 237-8 Fairy Cave 177 336 Banjarbaru 256 Gomantong Caves 104 Banjarmasin 252-6, 254 Great Cave 199 Bario 214-18 Lagang Cave 210 Bario Asal Longhouse 214 Painted Cave 199 Batang Ai Region 142, 183 Chamber 210-11 Batang Duri 238 show caves 209-10 Batang Rejang 188-94 Wind Cave 210 bathrooms 313 caving 18, 29, 177, 209-10 Batu Caves 41 cell phones 312-13 Batu Punggul 129 Cempaka 256 Bau 177-8 children, travel with 306, 326 SYMBOLS beaches 63, 168, 180-1, 196, 197, see Chinese History Museum 152-3 1Malaysia 281 also Pantai Chinese New Year 19, 155 Beaufort 129-30 climate 306 Beaufort Division 129-31 A month by month 19 Belaga 192-4 accommodation 304, see also consulates 307 individual locations Belaga Rainforest Challenge 20, 193 courses activities 26-31, see also individual Baleh-Kapit Raft Safari 19, 191 Bahasa Indonesian 260 locations 183 Dayak cooking 155 adventure caves 210-11 Berau 273-5, 275 jungle survival 216 Agnes Keith House 93-5 Bilit 107-8 Crocker Range 126-7 air travel 316, 317 Bintulu 194-7, 195 Crocker Range National Park 127 ambuyat 134, 230, 232, biofuelling 294 cultural villages 170 animals 82, 86, 103, 166, 289-92 birds 139, 293, 139 Kampung Ayer 224 Annah Rais Longhouse 173-4 boat rides 224 Mari Mari Cultural Village 59-61 aquariums boat travel 317, 319 Monsopiad Cultural Village 62 Akuarium 152 boat trips 5, 10, 17, 30, 105-6, 130-1, Sarawak Cultural Village 170 Green Connection 62 239, 269 culture 84, 142-4, 155, 162, 186, 214, area codes 312-13 books 31 280-2, 296-302, 142-4, see also health 322 Dayak culture border crossings 123, 220, 233, 237, customs regulations 84, 309 B 314, 318, 319 cycling 319 Ba Kelalan 218 Borneo Cultural Festival 20, 186 Bahasa Indonesia 327 Borneo International Kite Festival Bahasa 327 21, 196 D Danum Valley Conservation Area 5, 4, 138, 166-70, 4 Brooke, Charles 284-5 110-12, 5 Bakun Dam 194 Brooke, James 284 Datah Bilang 273 Balikpapan 259-63, 260 Brunei Darussalam 33, 223-39, 226 Dayak culture 17, 84, 137, 142, 155, Bandar Labuan 133-6, 133 accommodation 223 161, 182, 191, 259, 270-1, 282, Bandar Seri Begawan 224-35, 266, food 223 296-302, 137, 142 accommodation 229-30 highlights 225 decompression chambers 115 activities 224-9 travel seasons 223 Deer Cave 209-10 drinking 232 Brunei Museum 227 deforestation 293-4 emergency services 233 budget 14 dengue fever 323 food 230-2 Bukit Gemok Forest Reserve 121 diarrhoea 325-6 internet access 233 bus travel 319 disabilities, travellers with 313-14 medical services 233 business hours 305-6 diving 11, 12, 16, 113, 115-18, 134, shopping 232-6 140-1, 276-7, 324, 12, 140-1 sights & activities 224-9 C tourist information 233 Camp Leakey 246 E tours 229 canopy walks 18, 209, 239 ecology 288-9 travel to/from 233 caves 86, 103, 129, 177, 198-200, 209 electricity 307 travel within 234-5 adventure caves 210-11 embassies 307 Batu Caves 41 environmental issues 189, 193, 242, 000 Map pages Batu Tulug 105 252, 268, 285, 293-5 000 Photo pages Clearwater Cave 210 deforestation 293-4 Deer Cave 209-10 hydroelectric dams 295 oil-palm plantations 294 Konfrontasi 174, 214, 286 travel seasons 240, 249, 271 wildlife trade 295 transmigrasi 242, 286 travel to/from 242 337 etiquette 228, 280, 300-2, 301, 315 hitching 321 travel within 242-3 exchange rates 15 holidays 311 Kampung Ayer 224 home stays 7, 75, 108, 305, 7 Kandangan 256-7 F Labuan Homestay Programme 134 Kapalai 119-20 festival & events 155, 190-1, 302 Yayorin Homestay 243 Kapit 189-92, 190 hot springs 9, 85, 174 kayaking 88

Baleh-Kapit Raft Safari 19, 191 INDEX Belaga Rainforest Challenge hydroelectric dams 295 Kelabit Highlands 7, 142, 213-19, 7 20, 193 128 Borneo Cultural Festival 20, 186 Kinabalu National Park 75-85, 76 I E-K Borneo International Kite Festival Indonesian language 327 Orang-utan Conserva- 21, 196 infectious diseases 323 tion Project 105 Chinese New Year 19, 155 insect bites & stings 325 , see Sungai Gawai Dayak 20, 191, 302 Kinabatangan insurance 309 Hari Raya Puasa 20, 228 Klias 130-1 health 322 Harvest Festival 19 Konfrontasi 174, 214, 286 internet access 15, 309 Kuching Festival Fair 20, 155 Kota Bangun 270 Islam 228, 242, 283 Miri International Jazz Festival 204 88-9 islands 73-5, 91-2, 102-3, 103, 115, month by month 19 168, 182-3, 238, 273, see also 57-73, 60 Mooncake Festival 155 Pulau accommodation 65-7 Rainforest World Music Festival Kapalai 119-20 drinking 70 20, 155 Layang Layang 92, 140 emergency services 71 Regatta Lepa 116 Mabul 118-19, 140, 140-1 entertainment 69-70 floating markets 253 Mataking 120 food 67-9 food 308-9 Pom Pom 120 internet access 71 Singamata 118 medical services 71 G Sipadan 12, 115-16, 118, 140, 12, shopping 70-9 Garama 131 140-1 sights 57-63 Gawai Dayak 20, 191, 302 Istana Nurul Iman 228 tourist information 71 gay travellers 308-9 itineraries 22-5 tours 63-4 geology 287-9 travel to/from 71-2 Gomantong Caves 104 J travel within 72-3 Great Cave 199 Jakarta 51-5, 52 Kuala Belait 236 guides 208, 215, 247, 300-1 accommodation 51, 52-3 Kuala Lumpur 36-42, 38 Gunung Bengoh 178 drinking 54 accommodation 36, 37-40 Gunung Gading 180 entertainment 54 drinking 40 Gunung Gading National Park 179-80 food 51, 53-4 emergency services 41 Gunung Mulu 211 sights 52 entertainment 41 Gunung Mulu National Park 5, 138, tourist information 54 food 36, 40 208-13, 5 travel to/from 54-5 internet access 41 Gunung Murud 219 travel within 55 medical services 41 Gunung Penrissen 174-5 Jakarta National Museum 54 sights 37, 41 Jalan Labi 235-6 tourist information 41 H Jame’Asr Hassanil Bolkiah Mosque travel to/from 41 Hari Raya Puasa 20, 228 228 travel within 42 Harvest Festival 19 130 Headhunters’ Trail 211 K 175-6 head-hunting 282, 299-300 Kuching 8, 142, 144, 148-66, 150-1, Kalimantan 33, 240-78, 244, 250, health 322-6 254, 258, 260, 265, 275 8, 144 heat exhaustion 324-5 accommodation 240, 243-5, 249- accommodation 155-7 heat rash 324-5 52, 253-6, 260-1, 264-6, 274, 277 activities 154-5 heatstroke 324-5 culture 242 drinking 160 history 282, 283-6 food 240, 244-5, 251, 254-6, 261-2, emergency services 163 European involvement 283-4 266, 274 entertainment 160-1 independence 286 highlights 241-2 food 157-60 Islam 283 history 242 internet access 163 Japanese occupation 285-6 tours 243, 249, 253, 264, 267 medical services 163 Kuching continued M Brunei Museum 227 338 shopping 161-6 Mabul 118-19, 140, 140-1 Chinese History Museum 152-3 sights 148-54 macaques 166, 231 Jakarta National Museum 54 tourist information 163-6 Mahakam river, see Sungai Mahakam Malay Technology Museum 227 tours 155 malaria 323 Museum of Islamic Civilisation 59 travel to/from 164-5 Malaris 259 Niah Archaeology Museum 198-9 travel within 165-6 Malay 327 Royal Regalia Museum 227 Kuching Festival Fair 20, 155 Malay Islamic Monarchy 281 INDEX Museum 59 Kuching Wetlands National Park Malay Technology Museum 227 Sarawak Museum 149-52 172-3 Malaysian flag 313 89-90 Conservation Area 11, K-N Kumai 245-6 124-6, 11 N Kutai National Park 268-9 Mancong 271-2 Nanga Sumpa Longhouse 183 maps 309-10 national parks & reserves 290-1 L marine parks Bako National Park 4, 138, Labuan Bird Park 134 Labuan Marine Park 134 166-70, 4 Labuan Homestay Programme 134 Talang-Satang National Park 182-3 Batang Ai National Park 183 Labuan Marine Park 134 Tun Sakaran Marine Park 120 Bukit Gemok Forest Reserve 121 Labuk Bay Proboscis Monkey markets 57-9, 68, 69, 97 Crocker Range National Park 127 Sanctuary 100-1 floating markets 253 Gunung Gading National Park 109-10 Satok Weekend Market 144, 154, 179-80 Lambir Hills National Park 201 144 Gunung Mulu National Park 5, 138, land rights 300 Martapura 256 208-13, 5 Lagang Cave 209-10 Mataking 120 Kinabalu National Park 75-85, 76 language 327-33 Matang Wildlife Centre 176-7 Kubah National Park 175-6 accommodation 328 measures 310 Kuching Wetlands National Park emergencies 329 media 310 172-3 food 328-9 medical checklist 324 Kutai National Park 268-9 signs 329 medical services 322-3 Lambir Hills National Park 201 time 330 Melak 272 Maliau Basin Conservation Area 11, transport 330-1 131 124-6, 11 languages 14, 327-33 Meratus Mountains, see Pegunungan Lawas 222 Meratus 198-200 Layang Layang 92, 140 Mesilau Nature Resort 85 Peradayan Forest Reserve 238 leeches 28-9, 280 Mesjid Raya Sabilal Muhtadin 253 Pulau Tiga National Park 131-2 legal matters 309, 310 MIB, see Malay Islamic Monarchy 219 leptospirosis 323 Miri 201-8, 202 Rainforest Discovery Centre 100 lesbian travellers 308-9 Miri International Jazz Festival 204 Sabah Agricultural Park 128-9 Limbang 219-22 mobile phones 312-13 Sebangau National Park 252 Limbang Division 219-22 money 310-11 Sepilok Orang-Utan Rehabilitation local transport 321 Monsopiad Cultural Village 62 Centre 10, 99-100, 138, 10 Lok Kawi Wildlife Park 61-2 Mooncake Festival 155 197-8 Loksado 257-8 mosques 62-3, 143, 149-53, 224, 228 Talang-Satang National Park Long Apari 273 Jame’Asr Hassanil Bolkiah Mosque 182-3 Long Bagun 273 228 Rafflesia Reserve 127 Long Hubung 273 Mesjid Raya Sabilal Muhtadin 253 Tanjung Datu National Park 181-2 Long Iram 272-3 Omar Ali Saifuddien Mosque 143, Tanjung Puting National Park 11, Long Lunuk 273 224-6, 143 246-9, 11 Long Pahangai 273 motorcycle travel 320-1 Hills Park 124 longhouses 6, 90, 183, 188-93, 271-2, Mt Kinabalu 6, 64, 75-85, 78, 6 Tunku Abdul Rahman National Park 298, 300-2, 305, 6 Mt Trus Madi 127 7, 73-5, 7 Annah Rais Longhouse 173-4 mountain climbing 6, 28, 30, 75-85, Bario Asal Longhouse 214 211 Turtle Islands National Park 102-3 Nanga Sumpa Longhouse 183 mountains, see Gunung Ulu Temburong National Park 10, Lundu 178-9 Muara Muntai 270 238-9 Muara Pahu 271 Wind Cave Nature Reserve 177 Negara 257 000 Map pages multiculturalism 280-2 Niah Archaeology Museum 198-9 000 Photo pages museums & galleries 153, 154 Agnes Keith House 93-5 Niah National Park 198-200 O Pulau Selirong 238 Sematan 180-1 oil-palm plantations 294 Pulau Sulug 74 Semenggoh Nature Reserve 9, 138, 339 Omar Ali Saifuddien Mosque 143, Pulau Talang-Talang 183 173, 9 224-6, 143 Pulau Tiga 131-2 113-15, 114 opening hours 305-6 Pulau Tiga National Park 131-2 Semporna Archipelago 115-20 orangutans 9, 10, 11, 16, 99, 105, 138- Pulong Tau National Park 219 Sepilok 99-102 9, 173, 175, 176, 246-78, 248, 252, Sepilok Orang-Utan Rehabilitation 263, 268, 289-91 9, 10, 11, 138-9 Centre 10, 99-100, 138, 10 R Seria 236 INDEX rabies 323-4 show caves 209-10 P Rafflesia 9, 18, 127, 179, 9 Painted Cave 199 Sibu 184-8, 184 rafting 88, 129-32 0-T Similajau National Park 197-8 Palangka Raya 249-52, 250 Rainforest Discovery Centre 100 Singamata 118 Pangkalan Bun 243-5, 244 Rainforest World Music Festival Singapore 43-50, 44, 47, 48 Pantai Meragang 229 20, 155 accommodation 43, 45 Pantai Muara 229 85 drinking 47 Pantai Pandan 178 Regatta Lepa 116 emergency services 48 Pantai Seri Kenangan 235 religions 280-2, 298-9 entertainment 48 Pantai Siar 178 rivers, see Sungai food 43, 46 Pantai Tutong 235 Royal Regalia Museum 227 parks & gardens 148 internet access 48 Taman Peranginan Tasek 228 medical services 48 Taman Persiaran Damuan 228 S shopping 48 Sabah 32, 56-136, 60 Pegunungan Meratus 8, 142, 8 sights 44, 49 accommodation 56, 75, 108 Penan 214, 297 tourist information 49 food 56, 103 Peradayan Forest Reserve 238 travel to/from 49-50 highlights 58 planning travel within 50 planning 64-5 activities 26-31 Sipadan 12, 115-16, 118, 140, 12, 140-1 tours 126 Borneo’s regions 32-3 skin problems 325 calendar of events 19 travel seasons 56 snorkelling 16, 117 itineraries 22-5 travel to/from 57 Sukau 106-7 month by month 19 travel within 57, 128 Sultan Bolkiah 284 travel seasons 14-15 Sabah Agricultural Park 128-9 Sultan of Sulu 284 Sabah Museum 59 plants 18, 86, 138-9, 166, 293, 138-9 Sungai Garama 131 politics 280-2 safety 311-12 Sungai Kinabatangan 5, 103-9, 138, 5 Pom Pom 120 Samarinda 263-8, 265 Sungai Klias 130-1 population 280-2 Samboja Lodge 263 Sungai Mahakam 269-72 Hot Springs 9, 85-7, 9 92-9, 94 proboscis monkeys 166, 172, 291-2 accommodation 96-7 T public holidays 311 drinking 98 112-13 Pulau Bakungan Kecil 102-3 food 97-8 Talang-Satang National Park 182-3 Pulau Banggi 91 sights 92-6 Taman Peranginan Tasek 228 Pulau Berhala 103 tours 96 Taman Persiaran Damuan 228 Pulau Derawan 11, 140, 276-7 Sandakan Archipelago 102-3 Tambunan 127 Pulau Gaya 73-4 Sandakan Death Marches 93 Tambunan Rafflesia Reserve 127 Pulau Gulisan 102-3 Sandakan Memorial Park 95 63 Pulau Kakaban 273 Sangalaki Archipelago 11, 140, 273, Tanjung Datu National Park 181-2 Pulau Kalampunian Damit 132 276, 11 Tanjung Isuy 270-1 Pulau Labuan 132-6 Santubong Peninsula 170-2 Tanjung Puting National Park 11, Pulau Lakei 168 Sarawak 33, 145-222, 150-1 246-9, 11 Pulau Lankayan 102 accommodation 145, 205 Tanjung Simpang Mengayu 91 Pulau Mamutik 73 food 145, 159, 217, 218 Tarakan 277-8 Pulau Mantanani 91, 140 highlights 146-7 Tawau 120-4, 121 Pulau Manukan 73 travel to/from 148 Tawau Hills Park 124 Pulau Penyu 102-3 travel within 148 taxi travel 319 Pulau Sangalaki 273 Sarawak Cultural Village 170 telephone services 312-13 Pulau Sapi 73 Sarawak Museum 149-52 Telok Assam 168 Pulau Satang 182-3 Satok Weekend Market 144, 154, 144 Telok Kruin 168 Pulau Selingan 102-3 Sebangau National Park 252 Telok Limau, 168 Telok Melano 181-2 Turtle Islands National Park 102-3 Danum Valley Conservation Area 340 Telok Pandan Besar 168 Tutong 235 5, 110-12, 5 Telok Pandan Kecil 168 TV & radio 310 Kinabatangan Orang-utan Conser- Telok Pugug 181 vation Project 105 Telok Sematan 180-1 U Kota Kinabalu Wetland Centre 59 Telok Sibur 168 Ulu Temburong National Park 10, Labuan Bird Park 134 Temburong District 10, 236-9, 10 238-9 Labuk Bay Proboscis Monkey temples 62, 95 Unesco World Heritage Sites 295 INDEX Sanctuary 100-1 Tempurung 130 Upau 259 Lok Kawi Wildlife Park 61-2 Tenggarong 269 Usukan Bay 89 128 Matang Wildlife Centre 176-7 T-Y Samboja Lodge 263 Tering 272-3 V Semenggoh Nature Reserve 9, time 313 vacations 311 138, 173, 9 Tiong Ohang 273 vaccinations 322, 323 toilets 313 van travel 319 Sepilok Orang-Utan Rehabilitation tourist information 313 visas 314-15 Centre 10, 99-100, 138, 10 tours 321, see also individual volunteering 315 Tabin Wildlife Reserve 112-13 locations wildlife trade 295 train 321 wildlife watching 4, 111, 166-7, 168, transmigrasi 242, 286 W 175, 209, 249 travel literature 31 water, drinking 325 travel to/from Borneo 316 waterfalls 61, 125, 180, 239, 201 Wind Cave Nature Reserve 177 travel within Borneo 317-21 Fairy Falls 111 women travellers 315 trekking 7, 16, 26, 106, 111, 125, 167-8, weather 306 women’s health 326 175, 178, 211, 215-19, 218-19, 258-9 websites 15 WWII 93, 103, 242, 285-6 health 322, 326 Tua Pek Kong Temple 143, 185, 143 memorials 85 87 Weston 131 Tun Sakaran Marine Park 120 White Rajahs 281, 284-6, 297 Tunku Abdul Rahman National Park wildlife 105-6, 138-9, 166, 172, 138-9 Y 7, 73-5, 7 wildlife reserves Yayorin Homestay 243

000 Map pages 000 Photo pages 342

These symbols will help you find the listings you want: Look out for Sights Festivals & Events Entertainment 1 z 3 these icons: 2 Activities 4 Sleeping 7 Shopping Our author’s o recommendation C Courses 5 Eating 8 Information/ Transport F No payment T Tours 6 Drinking required A green or S sustainable option These symbols give you the vital information for each listing: Our authors have nominated % Telephone Numbers W Wi-Fi Access g Bus these places as demonstrating a strong commitment to h s f Opening Hours Swimming Pool Ferry sustainability – for example by p Parking v Vegetarian Selection m Metro supporting local communities n Nonsmoking E English-Language Menu b Subway and producers, operating in an a Air-Conditioning c Family-Friendly t London Tube environmentally friendly way, or supporting conservation i Internet Access # Pet-Friendly j Tram projects. d Train Reviews are organised by author preference.

Map Legend Sights Entertainment Routes Boundaries Beach Entertainment Tollway International Buddhist Freeway State/Province Shopping Castle Primary Disputed Shopping Christian Secondary Regional/Suburb Hindu Information Tertiary Marine Park Islamic Bank Lane Cliff Jewish Embassy/ Unsealed Road Wall Monument Consulate Plaza/Mall Hydrography Museum/Gallery Hospital/Medical Steps River, Creek Ruin Internet Tunnel Intermittent River Winery/Vineyard Police Pedestrian Swamp/Mangrove Zoo Post Office Overpass Reef Other Sight Telephone Walking Tour Canal Toilet Walking Tour Activities, Courses Water Tourist Information Detour & Tours Dry/Salt/ Other Information Path Diving/Snorkelling Intermittent Lake Canoeing/Kayaking Transport Geographic Glacier Skiing Airport Hut/Shelter Areas Surfing Border Crossing Lighthouse Beach/Desert Swimming/Pool Bus Lookout Walking Cable Car/ Mountain/Volcano Cemetery Windsurfing Funicular Oasis (Christian) Other Activity/ Cycling Park Cemetery (Other) Course/Tour Ferry Pass Park/Forest Sleeping Metro Picnic Area Sleeping Monorail Waterfall Sportsground Camping Parking Population Sight (Building) Petrol Station Eating Capital (National) Taxi Top Sight Eating Capital Train/Railway (Building) (State/Province) Drinking Tram City/Large Town Drinking Other Transport Town/Village Cafe © Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd. To make it easier for you to use, access to this chapter is not digitally restricted. In return, we think it’s fair to ask you to use it for personal, non-commercial purposes only. In other words, please don’t upload this chapter to a peer-to-peer site, mass email it to everyone you know, or resell it. See the terms and conditions on our site for a longer way of saying the above - ‘Do the right thing with our content.’