Burgundy En Primeur 2019 REGIONS O F BURGUNDY
Chablis
Côte de Nuits
Côte de Beaune
EXPLORE AND PURCHASE 2019 BURGUNDY EN PRIMEUR WINES AT JEROBOAMS.CO.UK 2 2019 BURGUNDY Vintage Report
“It was one of those March days when the sun shines hot and the wind blows cold: when it is summer in the light, and winter in the shade.” Charles Dickens, Great Expectations
Last year we spoke of the 2018 vintage as Hautes-Côtes and assorted high spots across the new normal, and based on our tastings of the Côte d’Or. 2019, global warming is clearly shaping the Disappointingly, yields are down across the future of Burgundy. This is not to say that 2019 Côte d’Or, and most significantly in the Côte is a repeat of 2018, the wines have a unique de Beaune, where losses are in some cases personality and signature of their own. are over 50%. Producers in the Côte de Happily, it’s a far more homogenous vintage Nuits have lost 25-30% on average. Losses overall than 2018, and it is much easier to are due to various factors, including spring find superb wines from across the Côte d’Or frosts, irregular flowering, and a lack of water. and Chablis. 2019 is a vintage that has given Many producers reported small berries at a level of quality to Bourgogne and village harvest, with relatively little juice. It must be wines that would have been impossible a remembered that the reductions in volume decade ago. The new normal is creating are based on the bountiful 2018 vintage that new opportunities; it is unlikely we’ll ever preceded this one, but the losses are still see a reclassification of Burgundy, but today significant. Losses are worst in the regional one can find village wines masquerading as and village appellations, which is particularly Premier Crus, and Premier Crus snapping at cruel given the quality that has been achieved the heels of the iconic Grand Crus. and the wider audience these wines appeal to.
Burgundy is fascinating for its complex The white wines from the Côte de Beaune topography, and the exposition of vines to exceed all expectations; they combine the the sun creates a kaleidoscope through which generosity of fruit of the 2015s with some of the Pinot Noir and Chardonnay can be viewed. vigour and tension of the 2014s. There is great The dynamics of the air through the combes purity of fruit, which stylistically tends towards of Burgundy, these hot and cold currents, the yellow orchard and white stone fruit end of affect microclimate and the wines produced in the spectrum. In 2018 the solar nature of the subtle but significant ways. It’s tempting to go vintage was moderated by yields; the generous to altitude in search of freshness, and indeed volumes seemed to distribute and dissipate there are wonderful wines produced from the the warmth of the vintage. In 2019 the reverse
EXPLORE AND PURCHASE 2019 BURGUNDY EN PRIMEUR WINES AT JEROBOAMS.CO.UK 3 seems to be true; the relatively low volumes The wines in general are more ‘Pinot’ than have intensified the acidity in the wines. 2018, and the ripeness of fruit is balanced by There is more terroir expression across the freshness, nerve and verve, and good spines board in 2019 than 2018. of acidity and tannins. The fruit character remains cool overall, with red berry and The wines of Chablis are a wonderful success currant flavours to the fore. The more generous in 2019 and we have the most exciting vintage qualities of the vintage are often expressed for the region since 2014. The wines are via a twist of yellow or orange citrus fruit, rather different in character than 2014, the which add an immediately appealing zest to minerality comes from the warmer end of the the wines. There is a wonderful floral quality spectrum but it is there in abundance. The to the wines, with notes of roses and peonies wines have a wonderful petrichor quality that recurring throughout the vintage. evokes freshness after a hot day. Returning to the subject of global warming, Chablis The 2019 vintage has a joy and a tranquillity was traditionally a region of precarious that remains decidedly Burgundian in ripeness, and the Grand Crus were the slopes character. The new normal creates new where it was most assured. In the modern opportunities, and it is a vintage of great era this isn’t an issue, and the gap between appeal across all levels. It isn’t a vintage the Premier and Grand Crus has never been where the wallet needs to be stretched to closer. In particular, the Premier Crus of the breaking point to find the best wines, there Left Bank have never been better, and the are wonderful wines tucked away in the canny consumer should seek out the wines of shade that deserve their moment in the light. Vaillons and Montmains and their sub-climats. — Martin Tickle, Fine Wine Buyer, Jeroboams The red wines from the Côte de Nuits transmit the beautiful essence of Pinot Noir through the lens of the 2019 vintage. The basis for the wines is ripeness of fruit, but the hallmark of the vintage is purity and we tasted very few wines with overripe, jammy characters.
EXPLORE AND PURCHASE 2019 BURGUNDY EN PRIMEUR WINES AT JEROBOAMS.CO.UK 4 EXPLORE AND PURCHASE 2019 BURGUNDY EN PRIMEUR WINES AT JEROBOAMS.CO.UK 5 What is En Primeur?
Just like real estate, fashion or the stock market, everyone wants to know what’s going to be the next big thing. What do you buy and when do you sell? The wine industry is no exception. En Primeur is the term used across the wine trade for buying wine after production but before it is bottled. It is also sometimes referred to as ‘wine futures.’
Who is En Primeur for? When do I get to own the wine? En Primeur is perfect for those wanting to start When purchased En Primeur becomes the a cellar collection or to put wine away to drink property of the customer once due monies in the future. It can also be cheaper to buy wine have been received. during the period before it is bottled and sold to the open market; although prices do vary When will it be delivered? considerably from time to time, historically 2019 Burgundy will predominantly be shipped wine values have risen as they mature. Many summer 2021, except for domaines marked domaines produce tiny quantities of wine so it is with an * which are likely to be shipped winter sometimes the only way to secure wine that may 2021. Exact dates to be confirmed, please not be available to purchase once released. speak to your sales contact with any questions.
How can you guarantee the quality How can I guarantee my wine will of the wine? be safe? Each year our experienced buyers visit Your wines are fully insured. domaines throughout Burgundy to taste their barrel samples and to pick the best wines for our customers to enjoy. We also have a Where is the best place to store keen eye for those wines that represent great my wines? value for money. We ship direct from the We offer professional temperature-controlled domaines to our bonded warehouse to ensure wine storage through our partners ‘Vine’. Using provenance of the wines. this facility will ensure that your wines will be in perfect condition once they reach maturity in a few years’ time. If you would like to use this service please do ask us for more details.
EXPLORE AND PURCHASE 2019 BURGUNDY EN PRIMEUR WINES AT JEROBOAMS.CO.UK 6 Recommendations from Jeroboams
Each wine within the offer has been carefully chosen for its individual merits. These recommendations are designed to help you spot wines from lesser known domaines and vineyards that are truly noteworthy.
Star buys Drink dates Not necessarily the most expensive wines We have provided our suggested drinking at a domaine, these stood out during dates for your reference. These refer to when tastings and are a true reflection of wines will, in our opinion, be fully into their their terroir and the vintage. They offer stride. Many of the grander wines will continue outstanding quality for their price. to age beyond these dates but each person’s taste varies as to when they will find a wine at peak drinking. Best value Burgundy has a wine for all occasions, and these are wines that can be enjoyed at any Pricing time of year. Not everyone wants to lay Wines are shipped in bond to London City down wine for long periods, these wines Bond, Barking where they are held free of Duty will be approachable on release and offer and VAT. If delivery is to the Customer’s home great value. or office address, duty and VAT will be charged at the prevailing rates. These rates are currently £26.76 per case of 12 bottles for excise duty and 20% VAT on both the original cost and the duty. Delivery is free for all orders over £250 delivered to mainland UK. For orders less than £250 delivered within the M25 the delivery charge is £10.80 ex VAT, for orders outside the M25 the delivery charge is £16.20 ex VAT. All deliveries for Scotland, the Scottish Isles, the Isle of Man and the Isle of Wight will be charged at cost.
Visit jeroboams.co.uk and explore Burgundy En Primeur 2019 EXPLORE AND PURCHASE 2019 BURGUNDY EN PRIMEUR WINES AT JEROBOAMS.CO.UK 7 Talk to our team
Throughout this PDF you will find a hand-picked selection of some of our favourite wine from Burgundy’s 2019 vintage.
Many of these wines are available to purchase online through our website Jeroboams.co.uk, however if something is on allocation or there is a specific wine you would like that you don’t see listed, please don’t hesitate to contact us and we will do our best to help you. www.jeroboams.co.uk 020 7288 8888 [email protected]
Fine wine team
David Standfield [email protected] +44(0)20 7288 8856
Xavier Hornblow [email protected] +44(0)20 7288 8864
Luke Cianfarani [email protected] +44(0)20 7288 8881
Henry Chambers [email protected] +44(0)20 7288 8862
Alex Turnbull [email protected] +44(0)20 7288 8854
EXPLORE AND PURCHASE 2019 BURGUNDY EN PRIMEUR WINES AT JEROBOAMS.CO.UK 8 EXPLORE AND PURCHASE 2019 BURGUNDY EN PRIMEUR WINES AT JEROBOAMS.CO.UK 9 En Primeur wines
Côte de Beaune Côte de Nuits
Domaine Blain-Gagnard 13 Domaine Anne-François Gros 44
Domaine Fontaine-Gagnard 14 Marchand-Tawse and Domaine Tawse 46
Domaine Etienne Sauzet 16 Domaine Rossignol-Trapet 52
Domaine Paul Pillot 18 Domaine Faiveley 54
Domaine Jean-Marc Pillot 19 Domaine Odoul-Coquard 57
Domaine Patrick Javillier 21 Domaine Jean-Marc Millot 61
Domaine Jean-Louis Chavy 23 Domaine Henri Gouges 62
Domaine Bouchard Père et Fils 24 Domaine Bruno Clavelier 64
Domaine Simon Bize 27 Domaine Drouhin-Laroze 66
Domaine Bachelet-Monnot 29 Domaine Denis Mortet 68
Domaine Antonin Guyon 31 Domaine Hudelot-Baillet 69
Domaine de Bellène Domaine Aurélien Verdet 70 and Maison Roche de Bellène 33
Domaine Gérard Thomas 38 Domaine Michel Lafarge 39 Chablis
Domaine William Fèvre 75
Domaine Billaud-Simon 77
Domaine Samuel Billaud 78
Domaine Louis Moreau 81
Domaine Patrick Piuze 82
Domaine Jean-Paul and Benoît Droin 83
EXPLORE AND PURCHASE 2019 BURGUNDY EN PRIMEUR WINES AT JEROBOAMS.CO.UK 10 C Ô T E D E BEAUNE
Aloxe-Corton
Beaune
Volnay Pommard
Meursault
Puligny-Montrachet Chassagne-Montrachet
Santenay Côte de Beaune
The Côte de Beaune makes up the southern portion of the Côte d’Or, the heart of Burgundy. It runs from the village of Ladoix, just to the north of Beaune, down to Santenay 20km to the south.
The reds can be excellent from here and tend to have more perfume and less weight than those from further north in the Côte, but it is for whites that this region is most famous. From the structured and long lived Corton–Charlemagne to the decadent weight of Bâtard-Montrachet, these are the finest Chardonnays in the world.
Go directly to Côte de Beaune En Primeur wines on our website.
CÔTE DE BEAUNE EXPLORE AND PURCHASE 2019 BURGUNDY EN PRIMEUR WINES AT JEROBOAMS.CO.UK 12 Domaine Domaine Blain-Gagnard was formed when Jean-Marc Blain Blain-Gagnard married Claudine Gagnard, having met whilst studying oenology at Dijon. Today they run the domaine with the assistance of their son, Marc-Antonin. The real tragedy in 2019 is the yields, with up to 80% of the crop lost to frost in the village and Premier Cru appellations. The Grand Crus fared slightly better, with around 20% less than 2018. Jean- Marc was optimistic about the quality of his 2019s, if not the volumes, referring to them as, “rich and serious.” He opted for less batonnage in 2019 to preserve freshness.
WHITE DRINK DATES CASE SIZE PRICE
2019 Chassagne-Montrachet Blanc 2021-2027 12 BTLS £350
One third of the juice is sourced from Premier Cru vineyards, and the oldest Chassagne village vines date back to the 1930s. This is always a great buy, but this year it will also be one of the hardest to find, with a 70% reduction in volumes. Yellow plums and white peach on the palate, this has excellent texture and density, with those cripplingly low yields adding an extra dimension to what is already a cut above your average Chassagne villages.
2019 Chassagne-Montrachet Blanc, Premier Cru Morgeot 2023-2033 12 BTLS £495
We had high hopes for the clay soils and 60+ year old vines of Morgeot in 2019, and what little was spared from the frost is particularly impressive. Textbook Morgeot spices wrapped around an intense core of fruit, qualitatively this is up there with Blain Gagnard’s best vintages over the last decade and it will cellar beautifully.
2019 Chassagne-Montrachet Blanc, Premier Cru Caillerets 2023-2033 6 BTLS £325
Blain-Gagnard’s plot runs from top to bottom of Caillerets, enabling them to produce a complete expression of this superb oyster marl terroir. Always the most refined wine in the range, the 2019 Caillerets is particularly radiant, with white peach fruit that is finessed by honeysuckle notes.
2019 Criots-Bâtard-Montrachet, Grand Cru 2024-2037 3 BTLS £450
The total surface area of Criots-Bâtard-Montrachet is 1.5 hectares, and Blain-Gagnard have 0.20 hectares on the south side of the Grand Cru, with the same exposure as Montrachet. A more introspective nose than is typical at this early stage, Criots perhaps mourning the crop loss of its siblings. With time in the glass the wine slowly unfurls, revealing orange blossom and orchard fruits, but the real story here is the texture which is silky, and the succulent acidity on the finish.
2019 Bâtard-Montrachet, Grand Cru 2025-2039 3 BTLS £450
One third of the vineyard was replanted in Spring 2019, which would have resulted in reduced production even before the impact of frost. What remains is on imperious form, with all the power you would expect from Bâtard and palate-staining intensity. The balance of texture and precision here is particularly impressive.
CÔTE DE BEAUNE EXPLORE AND PURCHASE 2019 BURGUNDY EN PRIMEUR WINES AT JEROBOAMS.CO.UK 13 Domaine Fontaine-Gagnard
Céline Gagnard is progressively taking over the domaine from her father, and has been on a fine run of form in recent vintages. Overall, the domaine is down 30% in volume in 2019, with La Romanée the worst affected. Both Morgeot and Boudriotte were badly affected in volume by the frost of the 5th April. Céline describes the wines as “concentrated and powerful, but harmonious”.
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2019 Chassagne-Montrachet Blanc, 2022-2032 6 BTLS £240 Premier Cru Boudriotte
Fontaine Gagnard’s Premier Cru Boudriotte comes from the red soil in the lieu-dit Les Fairendes. Very old vines here, one of the three plots is over 100 years old. Les Fairendes is widely regarded as the superior part of Boudriotte, above the rest of the vineyard and just below Grandes Ruchottes and Caillerets. Orange zest and stony minerality on the nose, with fresh almond and a wisp of vanilla on the palate. Very pure fruit character here, with more minerals from that red soil coming through on the finish.
2019 Chassagne-Montrachet Blanc, Premier Cru Les Vergers 2022-2032 6 BTLS £240
Les Vergers sits above Les Chenevottes, on a shallow red soil of iron over limestone. It often ripens later than its peers, but retains acidity well, which means it often overperforms in warmer vintages. Stone fruits and citrus oils, with an attractive almond character adding complexity. Vibrant and spicy on the finish, which ends on a lip-smacking saline note.
2019 Chassagne-Montrachet Blanc, 2022-2032 6 BTLS £240 Premier Cru Grande Montagne
La Grande Montagne is a wild and remote site at the upper end of the Chassagne Premier Crus. Protected by trees, it’s a natural suntrap but the potential heat is moderated by the altitude and stony soils. Relatively young vines, planted in 1991. Yellow fruits and spice, with a fine seam of acidity and admirable freshness and vibrancy on the finish. This is another excellent Grande Montagne from a hidden terroir high above the village.
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CÔTE DE BEAUNE EXPLORE AND PURCHASE 2019 BURGUNDY EN PRIMEUR WINES AT JEROBOAMS.CO.UK 14 WHITE DRINK DATES CASE SIZE PRICE
2019 Chassagne-Montrachet Blanc, 2022-2032 6 BTLS £325 Premier Cru Les Caillerets
Fontaine-Gagnard’s plot stretches from top to bottom of the vineyard, giving a full representation of the terroir. The nose combines a haunting perfume and salinity with riper notes of yellow stone fruits. Notes of smoke and fresh ginger emerge with time in the glass. The tension and focus on the palate are particularly impressive here.
2019 Chassagne-Montrachet Blanc, 2023-2033 6 BTLS £395 Premier Cru La Romanée
La Romanée faces east, and the slightly cooler site has crafted a wonderful 2019. The nose is initially quite shy, with minerality, citrus peel and a hint of jasmine. The palate is focused, this tastes very ‘complete’ even at this infant stage and the finish is very long and harmonious.
2019 Bâtard-Montrachet, Grand Cru 2025-2040 3 BTLS £475
Fontaine-Gagnard have a single 0.3 hectare parcel of Bâtard-Montrachet, which is relatively flat and faces south. The 2019 is on imperious form, with textbook density of orchard fruits, tons of dry extract, and a brooding, almost sinister finish at this early stage. The Montrachet might be the best wine the domaine makes, but don’t tell that to the Bâtard.
2019 Criots-Bâtard-Montrachet, Grand Cru 2023-2037 3 BTLS £475
Criots-Bâtard-Montrachet was created in 1919, having previously been classified as a part of Bâtard-Montrachet. Fontaine-Gagnard’s three parcels total 0.33 hectares. A vibrant and highly expressive wine, the combination of tropical fruits and freshness is impressive.
RED DRINK DATES CASE SIZE PRICE
2019 Bourgogne Rouge 2021-2027 6 BTLS £90
The majority of the fruit here is sourced from around Volnay and the profile is suitably vibrant, with fresh currants and savoury spices. Bright acidity and silky tannins define this airy and supple Bourgogne – this was one of the pleasant surprises of 2018 and the 2019 is on an equal footing.
2019 Chassagne-Montrachet Rouge 2023-2031 6 BTLS £150
Blended from five different lieux-dits, with a total area of 1.5 hectares. 100% destemmed, no fining, no filtration. This wine has been a revelation since 2015, and a strong insider’s tip for quality and value in Côte de Beaune reds. Lots of upfront cherry and berry fruit, but the palate remains sleek and savoury, with discreet and finely structured tannins that wrap around the spiced fruit flavours on the finish.
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CÔTE DE BEAUNE EXPLORE AND PURCHASE 2019 BURGUNDY EN PRIMEUR WINES AT JEROBOAMS.CO.UK 15 Domaine Etienne Sauzet
Etienne Sauzet inherited and bought several plots of vines in the village of Puligny- Montrachet at the start of the 20th Century. The vines have now passed through the family to Jeanine Boillot, Sauzet’s granddaughter. She and her husband, Gérard Boudot, managed the domaine for many years and cemented its reputation as one of the most sought-after addresses for fine white Burgundy. Today the domaine has passed to their daughter, Emilie, and her husband, Benoît Riffault, who continue to maintain and refine its position as one of the undisputed stars of Puligny-Montrachet.
WHITE DRINK DATES CASE SIZE PRICE
2019 Bourgogne Blanc, ‘La Tufera’ 2021-2028 12 BTLS £210
La Tufera is a blend of three old vine parcels located just below the Puligny-Montrachet villages vineyards. An open and expressive wine, with a beautiful purity of peach fruit and citrus notes. Texturally very fine, and with a refreshing salinity on the finish, this is a wonderful rendition of this ‘Petit Puligny’.
2019 Puligny-Montrachet 2022-2030 6 BTLS £275
Sauzet’s Puligny-Montrachet is a blend of 12 different plots from across the village, with one third coming from Les Meix. Perhaps the best lieu-dit in Puligny, Les Meix sits just under Premier Cru Les Pucelles. A textbook example of the Sauzet style, this has a wonderful purity of orchard fruits, which are balanced on the palate by a salty minerality and a touch of almond on the finish.
2019 Puligny-Montrachet, Premier Cru La Garenne 2023-2033 6 BTLS £395
La Garenne sits at the top of the steep, limestone slope near Meursault Blagny, at an altitude of 400m. The nose hints at a generosity of fruit, complemented by a whiff of smoke and salinity. Airy and refined on the palate, this has a profoundly mineral note that provides the core that the fruit is wrapped around.
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2019 Puligny-Montrachet, Premier Cru Champ Gain 2023-2033 6 BTLS £425
Sauzet’s parcel of Champ Gain is located at the top of the vineyard, next to Premier Cru La Truffière and under Premier Cru La Garenne. The compact rock soils of the vineyard are sheltered by the nearby woodlands, creating a suntrap, which is expressed via a rounder mouthfeel with excellent density and volume of stone fruits. Reassuringly bright acidity keeps everything in check, providing a fine counterpoint to the fruit and sweet spice on the finish.
2019 Puligny-Montrachet, Premier Cru Hameau de Blagny 2023-2033 6 BTLS £450
Hameau, or ‘hamlet’ de Blagny is relatively close to the Meursault border and Sauzet’s vines are approximately 70 years old. The parcel is at the northern part of the vineyard and is protected by the walls of La Garenne above. The nose is complex and mineral, and this follows on to the palate with delicate stone fruits and floral characters.
2019 Puligny-Montrachet, Premier Cru Les Perrières 2023-2033 6 BTLS £475
The soil here is a deep clay mixed with limestone, and there are plenty of small stones in the vineyard that provide good drainage. The tension and energy here are immediately apparent, very mineral and fresh. A taut palate revels in the acidity and floral notes, you can really sense the stony character of this famous Premier Cru.
2019 Puligny-Montrachet, Premier Cru Champ Canet 2023-2033 6 BTLS £495
Champ-Canet is adjacent to Meursault Perrières and sits on top of Puligny-Montrachet Combettes. Old vines form the backbone here, with the majority replanted in the 1940s and one small parcel of 90-year-old vines. Benoît noted that Champ-Canet is a good terroir for the vintage, and the small berries produced here have produced a wine that combines the concentration and creamy fruit of its near-neighbour in Meursault with the tension and minerality of Puligny-Montrachet old vine fruit.
CÔTE DE BEAUNE EXPLORE AND PURCHASE 2019 BURGUNDY EN PRIMEUR WINES AT JEROBOAMS.CO.UK 17 Domaine Paul Pillot
This 12-hectare domaine is one of the top properties in the Côte de Beaune. Thierry Pillot has been responsible for the viticulture and vinification since 2004, and farms organically but without certification. He has extended the elevage to 18 months on lees, but with modest percentages of new oak and no lees stirring. The volumes in 2019 are heartbreakingly small; in some cases they have lost up to 85% of a normal crop. The whites that have survived have a crystalline purity and symmetry that is incredibly appealing. The two red wines remain some of the best kept secrets in the Côte de Beaune – for now!
WHITE DRINK DATES CASE SIZE PRICE
2019 Bourgogne Aligoté 2023-2029 6 BTLS £75
Very old vines, picked by hand, and raised in a combination of older oak barrels and stainless steel. Aligoté is a labour of love for the top producers, and remains one of the best values in all of Burgundy. Brightly fruited, with a creamy texture, and a pleasing balance between richness and acidity.
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2019 Bourgogne Chardonnay 2023-2029 6 BTLS £110
The purity and crystalline clarity that is the hallmark of the domaine is very much to the fore here; this combines the exuberance of fruit of the 2018 with the focus and energy of 2014. A normal production here is 12,000 bottles, in 2019 they only made 5,000, making this one of the most in-demand Bourgognes of the vintage.
2019 St Aubin Blanc, Premier Cru Les Pitangerets 2023-2033 6 BTLS £200
Pitangerets is located between Le Charmois and Les Combes au Sud, on the border with Chassagne-Montrachet. It’s a very cool site, with limestone soil, and is a vineyard on fine form in 2019. Riper stone fruits are balanced by a strong mineral presence across the long finish. Tiny volumes again here!
RED DRINK DATES CASE SIZE PRICE
2019 Bourgogne Rouge 2022-2030 6 BTLS £110
Bourgogne Rouge from top producers is always the smart buy for those who want to drink very well at sensible prices, and 2019 is such a wonderful vintage for these wines. Many show ripeness but also purity of fruit and depth that would have been impossible a decade ago. 50% whole bunch incorporated here, and the wine is very pretty and perfumed, already so appealing with the deceptive ability to reward a few years in the cellar.
2019 Chassagne-Montrachet Rouge 2023-2033 6 BTLS £150
Sourced from a single 0.94-hectare parcel of 40+ year-old vines grown on the red clay of Les Grandes Terres; this soil has always been ideally suited to Pinot Noir. Sweetly fruited and with a wonderful perfume, this shows that winemakers at the best addresses in Chassagne can produce delicious and age-worthy reds. Proof that bargains do remain in Burgundy, if this was from the Côte de Nuits it would be several times more expensive.
Domaine Jean-Marc Pillot
Founded by Jean-Baptiste Pillot in 1910, Jean-Marc took over from his father in 1991. Today he has 11 hectares throughout Chassagne-Montrachet, which he manages alongside his wife, Nadine, and his sister, Bérénice. They are fortunate to have a high proportion of old vines, with most aged between 25-50 years, and those in their plot in Clos Saint Marc reaching 100 years. These wines have a lovely balance between immediate appeal and potential for cellaring over the medium term.
CÔTE DE BEAUNE EXPLORE AND PURCHASE 2019 BURGUNDY EN PRIMEUR WINES AT JEROBOAMS.CO.UK 19 WHITE DRINK DATES CASE SIZE PRICE
2019 Chassagne-Montrachet Blanc 2021-2027 6 BTLS £210
Fresh stone fruits on the nose, with an attractive almond note. Bright and fresh acidity gives focus to the fruit, with just a touch of oak on the finish rounding things off nicely. An excellent Chassagne-Montrachet villages, but sadly significantly reduced in volumes in 2019.
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2019 Puligny-Montrachet Les Noyers Brets 2022-2028 6 BTLS £230
Les Noyers Brets is located at the southern extremity of Puligny, not far from the Chassagne border and just east from Grand Cru Bienvenues Bâtard-Montrachet. The vines were planted in 1973. Elegance and minerality are the hallmarks of this textbook Puligny-Montrachet lieu- dit villages. Crunchy orchard fruits and a refreshing salinity at the finish, this is wonderfully elegant and refined.
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2019 Chassagne-Montrachet Blanc, 2023-2033 6 BTLS £295 Premier Cru Les Chenevottes
Jean-Marc has three parcels in Premier Cru Chenevottes, at the northern boundary of Chassagne as it meets Saint-Aubin and Puligny-Montrachet. His 0.29 hectare plot was planted in 1950. Lime and white flowers on the nose, with hints of chalk and flint. The palate is light on its feet, with mineral notes to the fore and a refreshing salinity on the finish.
2019 Chassagne-Montrachet Blanc, 2023-2033 6 BTLS £295 Premier Cru Macherelles
The little-known Premier Cru Macherelles is located on the northwest border of village, facing east on the mid-slope, with shallow clay-limestone soil.
2019 Chassagne-Montrachet Blanc, 2023-2033 6 BTLS £295 Premier Cru Baudines
Les Baudines is a relatively high-altitude Premier Cru, located at the southern end of the commune on the border with Santenay. It faces southeast and benefits from exposure to sunlight in the mornings. The wines tend to be mineral, with fresh acidity.
2019 Chassagne-Montrachet Blanc, 2023-2033 6 BTLS £350 Premier Cru Caillerets
Les Caillerets sits on the slope above Morgeot and Champs Gains, Jean-Marc’s vines were planted in 1969. A restrained nose at first, with precise floral and mineral aromas. Power and finesse combine here, with a serious core of fruit and a pleasing creaminess to the mouthfeel. The acidity here is very well balanced and works well with the mid-palate weight and texture. A terrific Caillerets from Jean-Marc, which was mercifully spared the worst of the frost.
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2019 Chassagne-Montrachet Blanc, 2024-2035 6 BTLS £395 Premier Cru Vergers, Clos St Marc
The top Premier Cru of the domaine, Clos Saint Marc is a walled vineyard within Les Vergers, on the northern border with Le Montrachet. The old vines here were planted in 1910. Taut and coiled on the nose at this early stage, but on the palate the taster can feel the weight and breadth latent in the wine.
2019 Corton-Charlemagne, Grand Cru 2023-2037 6 BTLS £750
The fruit comes from the Pernand side of the hill, which Jean-Marc acquires via a trade with Domaine Dublère. Typically just 1-2 barrels are made per year.
2019 Chevalier Montrachet, Grand Cru 2025-2040 6 BTLS £1,800
From vines bordering Bouchard, Pillot typically makes just one barrel, which has been matured in one year old oak to allow this incredible terroir full expression.
Domaine Patrick Javillier
Patrick Javillier took over his father’s tiny Meursault domaine in 1974, and gradually increased his holdings to ten hectares that are 80% white and 20% red. Patrick’s daughter, Marion, is today in charge of making their red wines and the commercial aspects of the Domaine. Marion’s brother-in-law, Pierre-Emmanuel, has worked alongside Patrick since 2011 and is now responsible for the white wines.
CÔTE DE BEAUNE EXPLORE AND PURCHASE 2019 BURGUNDY EN PRIMEUR WINES AT JEROBOAMS.CO.UK 21 WHITE DRINK DATES CASE SIZE PRICE
2019 Bourgogne Blanc, Cuvée Oligocène 2021-2027 12 BTLS £210
The fruit for Oligocène comes from Les Pellans, a limestone soil located on the Meursault side of the border with Puligny-Montrachet. Consistently one of the best values in white Burgundy, the 2019 balances a core of stone fruits with lively acidity and a whiff of flinty minerality on the finish.
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2019 Meursault, Les Tillets 2022-2030 12 BTLS £400
This is the most significant plot of the domaine, 1.5-hectares on limestone-rich rocky soil. There is very little top soil and the vines are essentially rooted directly into the rock. Very focused, with lime and a touch of fresh almond. The palate is toned, with vibrant acidity and a touch of lemongrass and ginger on the finish.
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2019 Meursault, Les Clousots 2022-2030 12 BTLS £475
Les Clousots is a blend of two lieux-dits: Les Clous near the top of the village and Les Crotots next to Premier Cru Les Poruzots. The vineyard names are also ‘blended’ to create Les Clousots. Very crisp and mineral on the nose, with a Chablis-like character. The palate has excellent vibrancy, with ample depth of stone and citrus fruits before a finish that fans out with white flowers. This is an excellent village Meursault that wouldn’t look out of place amongst the Premier Crus.
2019 Meursault, Tête de Murger 2022-2030 6 BTLS £350
Tête de Murger is a blend of Casse-Têtes on the Meursault hillside and Les Murgers de Monthélie on the Volnay hillside. Focussed and reticent at this early stage, with subtle notes of quince and apricot. The core of fruit on the palate is really impressive, with white stone fruits and spices. Vibrant acidity helps propel the palate through to the finish.
2019 Corton-Charlemagne 2024-2034 6 BTLS £600
From a small parcel in Pougets, just below the tree-line on the Aloxe side of the hill. Confit lemon and chalk dust on the nose, which lead to riper peach kernel and honeysuckle notes on the palate. There is admirable density of fruit here, but the mineral-spiked feel is airy and cool. The length is already long and stony, this should age well in bottle.
CÔTE DE BEAUNE EXPLORE AND PURCHASE 2019 BURGUNDY EN PRIMEUR WINES AT JEROBOAMS.CO.UK 22 Domaine Jean-Louis Chavy
The Chavy family have cultivated vines in Puligny for over 200 years, with the majority of this domaine’s vines planted by Jean-Louis’ father and grandfather, which are now 40-50 years old. These are classically styled wines, with only 25% new oak for the Premier Crus. They drink well in youth but also cellar gracefully.
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2019 Puligny-Montrachet, Premier Cru Clavoillons 2023-2031 12 BTLS £525
Jean-Louis has a small plot of 55-year-old vines in this vineyard which has been made famous by Domaine Leflaive. Honeyed, tropical notes on the nose, which are reined in on the palate by fresher citrus notes, extract and a saline finish.
2019 Puligny-Montrachet, Premier Cru Perrières 2023-2031 12 BTLS £525
Les Perrières is wonderfully located in the middle of the Premier Crus on the slope, with stony, chalky soil. Tightly wound, mineral and floral, the nose is dialled back in comparison with the proceeding wines. There is plenty of fresh white peach on the palate, with almond and a touch of honeysuckle.
2019 Puligny-Montrachet, Premier Cru Folatières 2023-2031 12 BTLS £550
A blend of two plots, one from the steepest, stoniest part of Folatières, and the other from lower down the slope on richer soil. In combination the two terroirs create a deft interplay between acidity, structure, and richness. The nose is cool, with fresh melon and grapefruits; the palate is richer and more exotic, with apricots, brown butter, and spices. An excellent counterpoint to Les Perrières, more generous and intense.
CÔTE DE BEAUNE EXPLORE AND PURCHASE 2019 BURGUNDY EN PRIMEUR WINES AT JEROBOAMS.CO.UK 23 Bouchard Père et Fils
Bouchard Père et Fils have built up the biggest domaine in the Côte d’Or, with 130 hectares of vines that includes 12 hectares of Grand Cru and 74 hectares of Premier Cru.
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2019 Beaune Premier Cru, Clos Saint Landry Blanc 2021-2029 6 BTLS £280
Bouchard have owned the entirety of this 1.98 hectare monopole since 1791, but it can be traced back to the 13th Century and is believed to be one of the origins of Chardonnay in Beaune. Facing southeast, it’s a site with high maturity potential and it’s important to harvest at the optimal moment to find balance between freshness and opulence. The 2019 is particularly suave and appealing, with fresh tropical fruits that are lifted by herbal notes. The palate is expressive, there is plenty of extract here but the acidity is fresh and the finish is long and harmonious. A very accomplished Beaune 1er Cru and excellent value too.
2019 Meursault Premier Cru, Genevrières 2022-2030 6 BTLS £380
Bouchard have 2.45 hectares of Genevrières, bought in 1976, and split across two parcels. Frédéric notes that it’s a site with high maturity potential, but also excellent balance. The nose is an attractive combination of white stone fruit, almond and florals. The palate is zesty, with bright acidity that is balanced by the creamy texture and riper tropical fruit notes. The finish is particularly long and refined in 2019.
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2019 Meursault Premier Cru, Perrières 2022-2030 6 BTLS £420 Bouchard’s Perrières comes from three different parcels that are vinified separately and then blended. A focused and pure nose, reminiscent of a Puligny-Montrachet Premier Cru. The palate has good energy, precise and focussed despite the concentration and extract present. The acidity is well balanced and there is a lovely floral lift on the finish.
2019 Corton-Charlemagne, Grand Cru 2023-2033 6 BTLS £815
Bouchard’s Corton-Charlemagne is located near the top of the slope by the forest, facing east. It’s a cold spot for Chardonnay and is always the last to be picked. The coolness is definitely an asset this year and the initial character is of citrus fruits and white flowers, with riper yellow fruits emerging on the palate. Very finely poised, this is well judged between austerity and opulence and the finish is long and soaked with minerals.
2019 Chevalier-Montrachet, Grand Cru 2024-2036 3 BTLS £820 Bouchard own 2.5 hectares, giving them the largest share of Chevalier-Montrachet with 30% of the total area, and making them the only producer to have plots on all four terraces. Complex and exotic, this leaps from the glass with apricots, white peach and an hazelnut. The palate has a serious side, there is plenty of mineral grip and bracing acidity, with a saline finish that encourages another sip. Difficult to resist now, this should cellar with panache.
2019 Le Montrachet, Grand Cru 2024-2036 3 BTLS £1,725 Bouchard own 0.89 hectares of Le Montrachet, located all on the Puligny side and sandwiched between the plots of Ramonet and Domaine de la Romanée Conti. Reserved on the nose at this early stage, but the palate is thrillingly chiselled and racy, with orange citrus fruits and herbal notes. Bracing acidity pushes the palate forward towards a finish that is already measured in minutes. This will cellar superbly.
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2019 Beaune Premier Cru, Clos de la Mousse 2021-2029 6 BTLS £280 Clos de la Mousse can be traced back to 1220, when it was owned by the church of Notre- Dame de Beaune. The Bouchard family bought the vineyard in 1872 and it has remained a monopole of the domaine ever since. This relatively high altitude vineyard is rich in clay and resistant to drought conditions. Very much in the red fruit spectrum, with fresh berry fruits and floral notes. The tannins here are particularly impressive, much more refined than you would have encountered here a decade ago. A very finely crafted Beaune 1er Cru with immediate appeal.
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2019 Volnay Premier Cru, Caillerets, 2024-2034 6 BTLS £335 Ancienne Cuvée Carnot Burgundian tradition states that, “Who has no vines in Caillerets, does not know what Volnay is worth”. Volnay Caillerets is particularly special to Bouchard, the 3.2-hectare plot was the first that they purchased back in 1775. The Carnot family who owned the land in the 18th Century is still mentioned on the label. A dark nose of black cherry and cassis, with subtle vanilla notes. The palate is fresh and supple, with bright acidity and silky tannins framing the fruit. The mineral concentration on the finish is impressive and further proof of this great terroir.
2019 Nuits-Saint-Georges Premier Cru, Les Cailles 2023-2035 6 BTLS £425
A one hectare parcel neighbouring Les Saint Georges at the south of the village on white, chalky soil. A bright nose of red and black cherries and a walnut note. The tannins are all present, but supple, this is built primarily on the fleshiness of the fruit.
2019 Beaune Premier Cru Grèves, 2023-2033 6 BTLS £515 Vigne de L’Enfant Jésus Grèves is widely considered to be the best of the Beaune Premier Crus, and is the largest at 32 hectares. Bouchard own 7 hectares in total, and this legendary cuvée comes from a 4 hectare monopole in the centre of the vineyard. Winemaker Frédéric Weber describes this plot as the filet mignon of Grèves! Darker in profile than clos de la Mousse, with blueberries, blackberries and violets on the nose. The quality of the tannins here is particularly impressive, this challenges the perception of the stereotypical earthy, rusticity of Beaune. Another fine example of the quality being produced from top 1er Cru sites around Beaune.
2018 Le Corton, Grand Cru 2024-2036 6 BTLS £595 Bouchard’s 3.6 hectares on the hill are east facing at an altitude of 320m, making it the highest Pinot Noir plantings on the hill, and the highest vineyard in Bouchard’s portfolio. Exposed to the north wind, it’s a very fresh and healthy terroir and is farmed biodynamically. The nose is appealing, with blackberry and floral aromas and white pepper. The palate is deep and darkly fruited, there’s a combination of leather, smokiness and salt. The finish is long and limpid, this high altitude site has performed superbly in 2019. This is perhaps the best young Corton we’ve tasted from Bouchard.
2019 Vosne-Romanée Premier Cru, Les Suchots 2023-2035 6 BTLS £650 Vosne-Romanée is home to the most iconic Grand Crus in the world, and 1er Cru Les Suchots is immediately next door to them. Bouchard own two plots, one in the upper part and one in the lower part. Fresh red berry and cherry fruits and rose petals on the nose. The palate is a touch firmer, with a healthy grip from the tannins adding definition to the supple fruits. The length is long and fans out leisurely, this textbook Suchots will have wide appeal.
CÔTE DE BEAUNE EXPLORE AND PURCHASE 2019 BURGUNDY EN PRIMEUR WINES AT JEROBOAMS.CO.UK 26 Domaine Simon Bize
Chisa Bize opted for less pigeage in 2019, feeling that the wines had enough natural structure, leading her to focus and prioritise the quality of tannins and purity of fruit. These wines are a wonderful success for the domaine, with soaring aromatics and a level of authenticity and refinement that warrants serious attention. It’s increasingly rare to be able to find the very best of a Burgundian appellation at an affordable level: readers need look no further than Domaine Simon Bize in Savigny-lès-Beaune.
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2019 Bourgogne Blanc, Champlains 2021-2029 6 BTLS £90
The domaine’s white wines are made by Guillaume Bott, who worked alongside Gerard Boudot of Domaine Etienne Sauzet for seven years. Les Champlains includes 5% Pinot Gris, whichs adds weight and texture to the finished wine. Peaches and apricots to the fore, with a creamy texture and good weight and balance. A delicious and charming Bourgogne Blanc, that finishes fresh and sapid.
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2019 Savigny-lès-Beaune Blanc 2022-2032 6 BTLS £150
The domaine has 2 hectares of Savigny-lès-Beaune Blanc, which Patrick planted in 1996 to increase the range of whites he could offer. This was pretty radical at the time for a village that was only known for its red wines. A very pure and attractive nose, discreetly fruited on the initial attack but with time revealing the kind of depth that would make you consider if you have a Premier Cru in your glass. Apricots and peach on the palate, but well reined in by a tensile acidic crispness, whilst the finish is poised and appealingly saline.
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2019 Savigny-lès-Beaune, Aux Grands Liards 2022-2034 6 BTLS £195
The 1.6-hectare Aux Grands Liards vineyard is a hidden gem located immediately underneath the Premier Crus on the left bank of Savigny. It’s home to some terrific old vines, planted in 1939, 1950, and 1979. A very appealing and vibrant nose of forest fruits, mushrooms and sweet spice. The palate is succulent, with chocolate-coated tannins and a gentle ferrous grip on the finish. A beautiful example at its level that will be difficult to resist in the first flush of fruit but will undoubtedly cellar well.
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2019 Savigny-lès-Beaune, Premier Cru Les Serpentières 2023-3033 6 BTLS £275
A 0.35-hectare parcel planted in 1959, this was the first plot Chisa used for trialling biodynamics in 2008. The name is believed to derive from the springs that snake their way through the earth underneath this parcel. These old vines produced little juice in 2019, which was fermented in stainless steel because the volumes were so small. What has been produced is dark and appealing, with bramble fruits mingling with forest floor notes and rose petal notes. Chisa notes that the clay soils do well in warmer vintages, and this is a superb example.
2019 Savigny-lès-Beaune, Premier Cru Les Marconnets 2023-3033 6 BTLS £295
A 0.80-hectare site, planted in 1973 on deep sandy soil. Les Marconnets is always dark in fruit character, and the 2019 is richer and generous with gorgeous blackcurrant and blueberry fruit. The palate is medium-bodied, with finely grained tannins that add structure to the fleshy fruit. The finish grips the palate with a firm, very mineral sensation – this is a very well-crafted Savigny Premier Cru in the making.
2019 Savigny-lès-Beaune, Premier Cru Aux Vergelesses 2024-2038 6 BTLS £325
A 2.2-hectare vineyard that is planted one third Chardonnay and two thirds Pinot Noir on very steep slopes. Arguably the finest Premier Cru in the appellation. Reticent on the nose, this unfurls leisurely in the glass to reveal a complex nose of black fruit, peonies and licorice. The palate has a decidedly cool and mineral personality, shrugging off the warmth of the vintage with flavours of slate and earth – you can really taste the stones here. The tannins are beautifully managed and discreetly frame the fruit, whilst the finish is long and profoundly mineral in nature.
2019 Latricières-Chambertin, Grand Cru 2025-2042 6 BTLS £995
0.32 hectares, planted over three decades (1961, 1971, 1981) and running from top to bottom of the Grand Cru. Undergrowth and black fruits on the nose, with an intriguing note of tapenade and smoked meats. The palate is tensile and well-defined, with a linear personality and strict tannins that suggest that this merits time in the cellar to harmonise. The finish is reasurringly fresh and mineral.
CÔTE DE BEAUNE EXPLORE AND PURCHASE 2019 BURGUNDY EN PRIMEUR WINES AT JEROBOAMS.CO.UK 28 Domaine Bachelet-Monnot
Brothers Marc & Alex formed Domaine Bachelet-Monnot in 2005, with the assistance of their father (Jean-François), and their uncle Monnot. We are huge fans of this domaine, and are delighted to have been working with Marc & Alex since the 2016 vintage. Now established as two of the stars of the Côte d’Or, they have the rare talent of producing Pinot Noir and Chardonnay at the same high level. We can confidently say these are the best wines we’ve tasted from Bachelet-Monnot at this stage. Marc was quietly pleased with 2019, praising their “savoury, saline edge” and “Burgundy style.”
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2019 Bourgogne Chardonnay 2021-2028 6 BTLS £90
This is a Bourgogne Blanc with serious pedigree, with all of the fruit coming from vineyards within the commune of Puligny-Montrachet. The average age of the vines is over 40 years and the wine is raised in 350 litre oak barrels. Sadly, 30% of production was lost to frost in 2019. A fresh and vital nose of tangerine and white flowers, with a sorbet-like freshness that follows on the palate. The finish is impressive, there is depth and minerality that takes it beyond its Bourgogne classification.
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2019 Puligny-Montrachet Premier Cru Les Referts 2022-2030 6 BTLS £375
Les Referts is located in between Puligny Premier Cru Perrières and Meursault Premier Cru Charmes, with an ideal south east facing aspect. A definite step up here in weight and density, with a wonderful purity of peach and apricot fruits. Yellow nectarine and spice on the palate, plenty of dry extract here and a touch of vanilla spice on the finish.
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2019 Bourgogne Pinot Noir 2021-2029 6 BTLS £90
Bachelet-Monnot’s Bourgogne Rouge is a blend of fruit from Maranges, Puligny- Montrachet, and Santenay. The vine age here is seriously impressive for a red of this level, with 60, 70, and 80-year-old vines in the blend. 20% whole bunch. A floral and airy nose of violets, which follow onto the palate of pretty red cherries and strawberry fruit. Volumes are sadly down here too, but what has been produced is vivid and finessed.
2019 Maranges Premier Cru Clos de la Boutière 2023-2034 6 BTLS £120
Clos de la Boutière is produced from an 80+ year old walled vineyard adjacent to Santenay Premier Cru Clos Rousseau. A different expression to La Fussière, much darker fruit here with black damsons to the fore and sweet cooking spices. There is a hint of fresh fig on the palate, which has plenty of texture and depth, but not at the expense of clarity and focus. The darker side of Maranges, with a smoky, earthy note on the finish.
2019 Maranges Premier Cru La Fussière 2022-2032 6 BTLS £120
Bachelet-Monnot own 4.45 hectares of La Fussière, making it the most significant holding of the domaine. The average age of the vines is 45 years, and some are as old as 80 years. The gentle winemaking that the domaine are known for is crucial here. These vines have enough potential within the fruit and the finesse only needs to be coaxed out. Eleven different parcels from the Premier Cru are blended together, with 25% whole bunches. Vibrant raspberry fruit, very sappy and mouth-watering. Darker plum and damson fruit on the palate, but the overall sensation is high-toned and perfumed, this is a wonderfully pure expression of Pinot with a savoury, saline edge on the finish.
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CÔTE DE BEAUNE EXPLORE AND PURCHASE 2019 BURGUNDY EN PRIMEUR WINES AT JEROBOAMS.CO.UK 30 Domaine Antonin Guyon
Domaine Antonin Guyon is one of the largely family owned domaines in Burgundy, comprising a remarkable 48 hectares of some of the finest vineyards across the Côte d’Or. This forward- looking domaine is constantly striving for improvements in the vineyard and the cellar, and has been certified organic since 2018. Dominique Guyon and cellar master Vincent Nicot are ably assisted by Dominique’s daughter, Hombeline, and Julien Millet, whose father is the cellar-master at Comte Georges de Vogüé in Chambolle-Musigny. 2019 has seen further refinements in winemaking, with reduced lees stirring to retain freshness and less new oak across the range. These wines have never been better, and we’re delighted to represent them in the UK.
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2019 Meursault, Premier Cru Les Charmes Dessus 2022-2032 6 BTLS £295
A 0.69-hectare parcel on white marl soil. Les Charmes Dessus is in the upper part of Meursault Charmes, next to Premier Crus Les Genevrières and Les Perrières. The opulence of Meursault is here, but balanced by beautifully pure and mineral notes. With excellent acidity and drive, this is a superb Meursault Premier Cru.
2019 Puligny-Montrachet, Premier Cru Les Pucelles 2023-2034 6 BTLS £475
Perhaps the most highly regarded of all of the Puligny-Montrachet Premier Crus, Les Pucelles is located adjacent to Grand Crus Bâtard and Bienvenues-Bâtard Montrachet. Planted on a combination of clay over limestone, it’s one of the smallest productions of the domaine. The maximum production is only three barrels (900 bottles), the majority of which are destined for the tables of the world’s finest restaurants. So mineral and precise, there is excellent expression of terroir here, from the purity of fruit through to the finish which is piercingly mineral.
2019 Corton-Charlemagne, Grand Cru 2024-2039 6 BTLS £495
A 0.85-hectare blend of two parcels, with one parcel on the Ladoix side and the majority of the blend coming from Le Charlemagne – close to Bonneau-du-Martray. Like their Clos du Roy, the domaine are using horses in Corton-Charlemagne to limit their impact on the terroir. Domaine Antonin Guyon make, in our opinion, one of the most classic expressions of the terroir, and certainly one of the best values. The Ladoix side adds freshness, tempering the orchard and stone fruits from Le Charlemagne. This wine really has found an extra gear in 2019, the balance of fruit, acidity and extract is wonderfully poised even at this early stage. This has everything you would seek in a Corton-Charlemagne.
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2019 Gevrey-Chambertin, La Justice 2022-2030 6 BTLS £195
Antonin Guyon own 2.58 hectares of this lieu-dit that is located just east of the village of Gevrey. The soil type is particularly complex, with varying proportions of clay, limestone and silt. The 2018 was terrific, but the 2019 might be even better – morello cherry fruits and spices, with increasingly refined tannins that frame the palate discreetly. La Justice drinks well on release but can also be cellared with confidence.
2019 Chambolle-Musigny, Les Cras 2023-2033 6 BTLS £240
A 1.13-hectare parcel of village Les Cras, which sits directly underneath the Premier Cru of the same name. Berries and cherries abound here, the juiciness of the fruits lifted by bright violet florals. Excellent richness on the palate, yet still light on its feet, the wine is framed by silky tannins and plenty of acidity adding crunch on the finish.
2019 Volnay, Premier Cru Clos des Chênes 2024-2034 6 BTLS £240
A 0.87-hectare parcel of 45-year-old vines in Clos des Chênes, which Dominique describes as the Chambolle-Musigny of the Côte de Beaune. Sadly production is down by approximately a third in 2019. Lafarge and Lafon made Clos des Chênes famous, but Guyon’s 2019 is snapping at their heels, with a highly accomplished and decidedly cool and mineral expression of the terroir.
2019 Corton Clos Du Roy, Grand Cru 2025-2045 6 BTLS £375
A 0.55-hectare parcel of 50 to 60-year-old vines, exceptionally sited mid-slope facing south-east. This vineyard is ploughed exclusively by horses, and the domaine’s parcels neighbour those of Domaine de la Romanée-Conti. Layer upon layer of dark fruits, with pressed flowers and a touch of clove adding complexity. 50% whole bunches included here, and the aromatic complexity and texture on the palate is perhaps a step above previous vintages. This is the pick of the offer for its unbeatable combination of terroir, quality, and value.
2019 Charmes-Chambertin, Grand Cru 2025-2042 6 BTLS £720
From a tiny 0.085 hectare parcel which produces one barrel on average. Located in the Charmes proper part of the Grand Cru. Hombeline Guyon was so keen to show us the Charmes in 2019 we skipped three wines and had to go back to re-taste! It’s easy to see why, this wine has come on significantly since 2015 and is the hidden gem of the domaine. Cherries, sous-bois, and sweet spices, with very well-judged oak and silky tannins. The only problem here is the tiny quantity, we have to convince ourselves we don’t like it quite so much!
CÔTE DE BEAUNE EXPLORE AND PURCHASE 2019 BURGUNDY EN PRIMEUR WINES AT JEROBOAMS.CO.UK 32 Domaine de Bellène and Maison Roche de Bellène
Nicolas Potel has access to some of the best Premier and Grand Cru vineyards in the region for his Maison Roche de Bellène wines. In recent years these wines have been consistently matching or bettering the critical scores from some of the biggest names in the Côte d’Or. Nicolas has also been steadily acquiring parcels of old vines for his Domaine de Bellène wines, which are all grown using biodynamic methods.
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2019 Savigny-lès-Beaune Blanc 2022-2032 6 BTLS £100
Domaine de Bellène: A blend of four different parcels in 2019: Les Planchots, Aux Champs des Pruniers, Dessus de Vermots, and Les Pimentiers. Nicolas considers this to be his flagship domaine white, lavishing it with the same attention as his top Premier and Grand Crus. The vine age maxes out at 70 years of age, and the wine is aged in larger oak barrels of 450L and 600L. Sadly, the yield in 2019 is less than half of a normal crop, but what has made it into barrel is a worthy follow up to their wonderful 2018. There is lovely purity of fruit here, limpid and unhurried, with a silky texture and vibrant acidity adding tension on the finish.
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2019 Bienvenues-Bâtard-Montrachet, Grand Cru 2024-2034 6 BTLS £1,250
Maison Roche de Bellène: The 3.7-hectare Bienvenues-Bâtard-Montrachet Grand Cru is effectively a lieu-dit of the larger Bâtard-Montrachet Grand Cru. The hillside above is occupied by the famous Montrachet and Chevalier-Montrachet Grand Crus. Floral on the nose, with honeysuckle and exotic spices. There is ample depth of peach and riper pear fruit on the palate, finessed by almonds and subtle patisserie notes. This is a rich and textural Grand Cru that retains excellent definition despite the evident power and structure.
2019 Bâtard-Montrachet, Grand Cru 2025-2037 6 BTLS £1,395
Maison Roche de Bellène: The 2019 rendition of Bâtard-Montrachet from Maison Roche de Bellène is absolutely textbook, powerfully structured but introverted in style at this early stage. With riper citrus fruits, floral notes and orange oil on the nose, the palate is broad shouldered with masses of dry extract in reserve. A touch of beeswax adds complexity, before the finish squeezes the taster to a profoundly mineral finale.
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2019 Chevalier-Montrachet, Grand Cru 2024-2036 6 BTLS £1,995
Maison Roche de Bellène: The 7.47 hectare Chevalier-Montrachet occupies a privileged position just above Montrachet, entirely on the Puligny side of the Grand Cru. Nicolas has changed his sourcing for Chevalier-Montrachet in 2019, but the wine remains wonderfully expressive, with ripe yellow fruits and jasmine on the nose. The palate deftly intertwines the opulent and the tensile, with a core of almond that is almost subsumed by the exuberance of the fruit. This is a compelling Grand Cru in 2019, which finishes on a highly finessed saline note.
2019 Montrachet, Grand Cru 2025-2040 6 BTLS £3,495
Maison Roche de Bellène: Nicolas sources from the Puligny side of this most iconic of Grand Crus. A relatively reserved nose in comparison to its noisy neighbours, but still stops you in your tracks with its combination of ethereal floral and mineral notes. The palate is profoundly mineral, beautifully balanced and fleshed out by a touch of Manuka honey. The saline characters define the wine through to the finish, which is at once intense and also effortless.
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2019 Savigny-lès-Beaune 2024-2036 6 BTLS £185 Premier Cru Hommage à Jean Ferté
Domaine de Bellène: Named in honour of Nicolas Potel’s Great uncle, Jean Ferté. Jean led a syndicate that was able to purchase Domaine de la Pousse d’Or in 1964, which was historically a part of Domaine de la Romanée-Conti until the French Revolution. The wine is a blend of two plots totaling 0.77 hectares, with the oldest vines dating back to 1962. Darkly fruited, with autumnal notes of forest floor and cocoa-dusted tannins. This is a particularly serious version of this cuvée and an excellent candidate for cellaring over the medium term.
2019 Beaune Premier Cru, Hommage à Françoise Potel 2024-2036 6 BTLS £225
Domaine de Bellène: Named in honour of Nicolas’ mother, this Hommage replaced the Cuvée Cinquantenaire that was created in 2014 to commemorate the 50th anniversary of Nicolas’ father Gerard Potel making wine in Burgundy. It’s a blend of five of the top Beaune Premier Crus (Pertuisots, Montée Rouge, Les Bressandes, Clos du Roi, and Reversées), which together produce a wine that is more complex than its components would be individually. Vibrantly fresh and floral, this immediately satisfies with brambly hedgerow fruits and floral notes. Silky tannins add discreet structure, the texture here is particularly impressive and this is an excellent example of the quality that can now be produced in these under-the-radar appellations.
2019 Volnay, Premier Cru Les Caillerets 2024-2034 6 BTLS £275
Maison Roche de Bellène: Airy and ethereal on the nose, the palate is just medium bodied, well-defined and mineral. The purity of fruit here is so impressive, Caillerets is one of the finest Pinot terroirs in the Côte de Beaune, and it’s easy to see why on this kind of form.
CÔTE DE BEAUNE EXPLORE AND PURCHASE 2019 BURGUNDY EN PRIMEUR WINES AT JEROBOAMS.CO.UK 34 RED DRINK DATES CASE SIZE PRICE
2019 Gevrey-Chambertin, Premier Cru Lavaut St Jacques 2025-2040 6 BTLS £350
Maison Roche de Bellène: Lavaut Saint-Jacques is the largest, and one of the most famous Gevrey Premier Crus. Both the Lavaut and Lavaux spellings are permitted. Red and black berries, violets, and mocha notes. Quite muscular on the palate, with the broad shoulders of Gevrey evident in the tannic structure and with a touch of spicy oak adding extra complexity.
2019 Beaune, Premier Cru, Grèves 2025-2040 6 BTLS £350
Domaine de Bellène: 2.5 barrels produced from this 0.23 hectare plot that was planted in 1904 and is the oldest in the vineyard. The early 20th Century vignerons clearly knew what they were doing, Nicolas uses Grèves for much of his massale selection for re-planting, such is the quality of the genetic material. The darker side of 2019 is to the fore here, with black cherry, smoke, and graphite minerality in abundance. The tannins are assertive at this early stage and will need a few years in the cellar to soften, this is a brooding and imposing Grèves with a long future ahead.
2019 Vosne-Romanée, Quartier de Nuits 2026-2038 6 BTLS £350
Domaine de Bellène: Planted in 1927, this hidden gem of a lieu-dit might be the best kept secret in the village. Tucked away in the corner where Clos Vougeot meets Echézeaux and Grands Echézeaux, it punches well above its weight thanks to its very illustrious neighbours. Bursting with dark, ripe fruits and smoky, spicy notes, this is a vibrant and floral Vosne villages that is already irresistible.
2019 Corton Grand Cru Le Rognet 2025-2038 6 BTLS £350
Maison Roche de Bellène: Le Rognet is on the Ladoix side of the hill, typically making a sleeker, velvety style of Corton. The nose is expressive, with joyful red and black currant and berry fruits across the nose and the palate. The mineral character of Corton is evident at the finish, but today it is coated in layers of flamboyant fruit, spice, and chocolate notes. A tremendous value Grand Cru, that would be several times more expensive were it located in the Côte de Nuits. It merits a few years in the cellar to integrate its clear quality.
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2019 Chambolle-Musigny, Premier Cru Les Groseilles 2023-2039 6 BTLS £350
Maison Roche de Bellène: Exclusive to Jeroboams in the UK. Les Groseilles is located just east of the village, sandwiched between Premier Crus Les Noirots, Les Combottes, and Aux Beaux Bruns. Groseilles are redcurrants, which is immediately apparent on the nose! A vibrant and silky Chambolle, which balances red and blue fruit with floral notes. The palate exerts a gentle grip, with well-integrated oak adding both structure and roundness. The tannins are lovingly crafted, this has all the caressing texture that you would hope for in a Chambolle Premier Cru. There are not many hidden bargains remaining in Chambolle, but this little-known Premier Cru is definitely one of them.
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2019 Nuits-St-Georges, Premier Cru Les Chaignots 2023-2033 6 BTLS £375
Domaine de Bellène: Chaignots is in the northern part of Nuits-Saint-Georges, on limestone soil, and there is always a hint of Vosne-Romanée to the wines. This 0.14 hectare plot has been farmed organically since purchase by Nicolas Potel. An intensely fruited nose, which follows on the palate with dark plums and a tang of marmalade adding complexity. A powerful wine, with sloes and a touch of licorice of the finish.
2019 Vosne-Romanée, Premier Cru Les Rouges Dessus 2025-2040 6 BTLS £400
Maison Roche de Bellène: Just two barrels produced. Spiced red and black fruits, well defined and very Vosne. Chai tea emerges with time in the glass, the palate is medium bodied, with fine tannins that frame a core of sweet fruit with a marmalade note. There is plenty of tension to this nimble wine, which relaxes on the finish with notes of sweet spice and black truffle.
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2019 Vosne-Romanée, Premier Cru Les Suchots 2025-2040 6 BTLS £595
Domaine de Bellène: The jewel in the domaine’s holdings, Nicolas has managed to acquire 0.215 hectares that were planted in 1937. Les Suchots separates Echézeaux from Romanée Saint-Vivant, and is one of Vosne’s finest Premier Crus. Deep and darkly fruited, with exotic spices, this has extra depth due to the low yields in 2019. Perhaps less ostentatious than the previous vintage, this remains an impeccably cut Suchots, with well-integrated wood and fine tannins. The finish is reassuringly long, with a dash of white pepper at the last.
2019 Clos de la Roche, Grand Cru 2026-2046 6 BTLS £850
Maison Roche de Bellène: Exotically spiced and fruited, with morello cherries and kirsch on the nose. The palate is dramatic, with a tense interplay between the exuberance of the spiced fruit and the bright seam of minerality and acidity at the core. This is a flamboyant Clos de la Roche that fans out on the finish wonderfully.
2019 Vosne-Romanée, Premier Cru Aux Malconsorts 2026-2043 6 BTLS £950
Maison Roche de Bellène: Exclusive to Jeroboams in the UK. Aux Malconsorts wins most people’s vote for Vosne’s greatest Premier Cru, located immediately under DRC’s La Tâche and sharing a very similar terroir to its neighbour. Malconsorts is on mercurial form in 2019, initially airy and floral, but then brooding and introspective, with an intriguing iodine character. The palate is sleek and silky, there is clearly structure here for ageing but it is content to stay behind the curtain for now. A note of black truffle adds complexity to what is shaping up to be a superb wine.
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2019 Echézeaux , Grand Cru 2025-2040 6 BTLS £950
Maison Roche de Bellène: A textbook Echézeaux nose of rose, violets, and fresh cherries. Fresh and transparent on the palate, this is initially high toned, with sous-bois and spice filling out the lower register. A very accomplished Echézeaux, with a lip-smacking freshness that balances the fruit intensity.
2019 Grands-Echézeaux , Grand Cru 2026-2046 6 BTLS £1,250
Maison Roche de Bellène: The Grands-Echézeaux is more darkly fruited than the Echézeaux, with plums and brown spices. The palate is somewhat reserved at this stage, focusing more on the saline and mineral aspects of the Grand Cru. With time in the glass a lifted perfume and herbal notes emerge on the finish, this is a pitch-perfect example of Grands-Echézeaux that will build with time in the cellar.
2019 Bonnes-Mares, Grand Cru 2026-2040 6 BTLS £1,600
Maison Roche de Bellène: The Bonnes-Mares is darkly fruited, with plum, licorice and sous-bois scents. There is admirable concentration and density on the palate, with sweet red and black fruits that temper the volume of tannins. This is one of the best terroirs in all of Burgundy and this 2019 is a fitting representation of the quality.
2019 Chambolle-Musigny, Premier Cru Les Amoureuses 2026-2041 6 BTLS £1,600
Maison Roche de Bellène: Crushed stones and pressed flowers on the nose, this has admirable purity of fruit that is subtly spiked with Turkish delight notes. The palate is an exercise in controlled opulence, lavishly fruited but retaining laser-like focus thanks to the fine bead of acidity that runs through to the finish.
2019 Chambertin-Clos de Bèze, Grand Cru 2026-2042 6 BTLS £1,850
Maison Roche de Bellène: Dark cherry, figs, and a lift of mint add complexity here, before riper fleshy fruits fill out the palate. The broad shoulders of Bèze hold all the brooding intensity of the Cru, this feels effortlessly medium bodied and poised despite the obvious power in reserve. Patience will likely be required here to enable all of the components to knit together.
2019 Le Chambertin, Grand Cru 2026-2046 6 BTLS £1,895
Maison Roche de Bellène: Last year’s best-selling Grand Cru of the Burgundy En Primeur campaign, the 2019 shows a friendlier face in comparison to neighbouring Bèze. Wild hedgerow fruits and rose petals are spiked with orange oil, whilst supple tannins add the framework to what is already a very well-balanced palate. The finish is soaked in minerals and so persistent.
2019 Richebourg, Grand Cru 2027-2047 6 BTLS £3,400
Maison Roche de Bellène: Peonies and Earl Grey on the nose, which lead onto a palate that is wonderfully fresh and vibrant. Fresh berry fruits on a grand scale, the filigreed tannins and potent acidity create a sense of harmony through to the peacock’s tail finish of considerable charm.
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2019 Romanée-Saint-Vivant Grand Cru 2027-2049 6 BTLS £3,400
Maison Roche de Bellène: The Romanée-Saint-Vivant is disarming, you can sense that there is fathomless depth here but the initial attack of fruit and florals is overwhelming. The palate is impeccably balanced and framed by succulent tannins, this is a headline-grabbing Grand Cru that remains wonderfully poised and sorbet-fresh on the finish.
Domaine Gérard Thomas
Gérard’s daughters, Anne and Isabelle, are the fourth generation now leading this excellent domaine in Saint-Aubin. Offering excellent value, the wines have upfront fruit and charm that makes them candidates for early accessibility, but also a steeliness and structure of ageing over the mid-term.
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2019 St Aubin Premier Cru Les Murgers des Dents de Chien 2021-2028 6 BTLS £120
The evocatively named ‘wall of dogs’ teeth’ is perhaps Saint-Aubin’s greatest vineyard, positioned high on a south-running spur, the eastern side of which overlooks the Montrachet and Chevalier- Montrachet Grand Cru vineyards of Puligny. A pleasing balance of creamy texture and tangy fruit, this is a supple and lively Premier Cru that keeps focus with a fine bead of acidity at the core.
2019 Puligny-Montrachet Premier Cru La Garenne 2022-2032 6 BTLS £195
Lemon zest, mint, and wet stone to the fore on the nose. The palate is similarly stony, with bright acidity cutting across the orchard and stone fruit character. With a note of fresh almond on the finish, this is steely and focused.
2019 Chassagne-Montrachet Premier Cru Les Chenevottes 2022-2030 6 BTLS £195
Premier Cru Les Chenevottes is on the other side of the escarpment from Le Montrachet, separated by Les Murgers des Dents de Chien. Riper citrus fruits and apple blossom on the nose, which follow on the palate and develop into notes of patisserie and cooking spices. There is excellent density here, with a well-pitched saline note at the finish.
CÔTE DE BEAUNE EXPLORE AND PURCHASE 2019 BURGUNDY EN PRIMEUR WINES AT JEROBOAMS.CO.UK 38 Domaine Michel Lafarge
We are thrilled to offer the wines of Michael Lafarge for the first time En Primeur, a domaine who have long been on everyone’s podium of top growers in Volnay. Their track record of producing ethereal Pinot Noir is remarkable, with wines from the 1930s still tasting beautifully today. Perhaps most excitingly, they seem to be making better wines now than at any other time in their history – Frédéric Lafarge and his daughter Clothilde are crafting some of the most compelling wines in the Côte d’Or.
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2019 Meursault 2022-2032 6 BTLS TBC
From a 1.0-hectare parcel planted in 1968 on clay over limestone soil. Usually the domaine bottle a classic Meursault and a Meursault vendange selection which is a vineyard selection of the best grapes, but this year everything has gone into the classic cuvée because of the low yields. No new oak here, tangy citrus fruits on the nose and fleshier stone fruits on the palate. With a subtle honeyed character on the finish, there is something almost Riesling-like about this very fine village Meursault.
2019 Bourgogne Aligoté, Raisins Dorés 2021-2031 6 BTLS TBC
From a 0.8 hectare plot of Aligoté Raisins Dorés that is located just under Meursault and planted in 1937. Badly affected by frost in 2019, no new oak used. Yellow plum and citrus peel, with a spicy, smoky note. The palate is richly textured, this is an ambitiously styled and overachieving Aligoté that will be difficult to resist but should age deceptively well.
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2019 Beaune Premier Cru Clos des Aigrots 2025-2037 6 BTLS TBC
The Premier Cru Clos des Aigrots is located above the main Aigrots vineyard. Lafarge own 0.66 hectares across four parcels, with the oldest vines dating back to 1949. Clothilde notes that the vineyard has been one of the success stories of their biodynamic approach, having adapted well to the warmer summers that this high-altitude site now enjoys. A very sophisticated Beaune Premier Cru, with mineral-soaked summer fruits and stylish tannins. Beautiful balance across the palate, this is a hidden gem.
2019 Volnay 2022-2032 6 BTLS TBC
This benchmark Volnay is a blend of six parcels from both the north and south of the village, totalling 2.61 hectares with an average vine age of 50 years. Very pure strawberry and floral notes on the nose, the palate is more generous, with explosive red fruits wrapped around silky tannins and moderate acidity. This has so much immediate appeal and will drink well right out of the gate.
2019 Volnay Premier Cru Les Mitans 2024-2036 6 BTLS TBC
Lafarge’s Mitans comes from a 0.39-hectare plot facing south-east, which was planted in 1952 and 1976. The soil is a relatively deep brown clay over the limestone bedrock. Here you can feel the balance and the tension between the clay and the limestone, relatively full-bodied in the mouth and vibrantly fruited, but with a mineral-driven finish that is very precise and long.
2019 L’Exception, Bourgogne Passetoutgrain 2021-2031 6 BTLS TBC
A 1.0-hectare plot, co-planted to 50% Pinot Noir and 50% Gamay in 1926. These venerable old vines are now so synchronised that they ripen together and can be harvested at the same time. Very pure, crunchy red and blue fruits to the fore, but the palate is more savoury than you would expect, well-defined and with a spicy, peppery note at the finish.
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C Ô T E D E NUITS
Fixin
Vosne-Romanée
Nuits-Saint-Georges Côte de Nuits
The Northern part of the Côte d’Or, this is predominantly Pinot Noir country, although a relatively few classy whites are made. Named after the main town of Nuits-Saint-Georges, whose wines tend towards sturdiness and longevity, the quality arguably reaches its apogee in Vosne-Romanée, where the finest Grand Crus are located. Those seeking elegance and perfume would be best served heading to Chambolle-Musigny, whilst for raw power, Gevrey-Chambertin is king.
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CÔTE DE NUITS EXPLORE AND PURCHASE 2019 BURGUNDY EN PRIMEUR WINES AT JEROBOAMS.CO.UK 43 Domaine Anne-Françoise Gros
Anne-Françoise and François’ children, Mathias and Caroline, are the 13th generation of this great Burgundian wine dynasty. The quality at this venerable estate has never been higher. Mathias and Caroline believe that it’s the best vintage they’ve made since the 2015 vintage, which was itself a step-change in quality for the domaine. Volumes are regrettably tiny; 2019 is the smallest vintage they’ve made since 2003 and volumes are 33-50% down depending upon the vineyard.
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Beaune Premier Cru Montrevenots Blanc 2022-2028 6 BTLS £295
Beaune Premier Cru Montrevenots is above Le Clos des Mouches at the border with Pommard. It was historically a red wine terroir but has increasingly been replanted with Chardonnay in modern times. Yellow fruits on the nose, nectarines and Nashi pear. The palate has a pleasing popcorn note adding flesh, but the finish is steely and mineral – almost reminiscent of Chablis.
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2019 Moulin-à-Vent En Mortperay 2022-2032 6 BTLS £100
100% Gamay. The domaine own 3.8 hectares in the Mortperay section of Moulin-à-Vent, on granitic bedrock. Everything is harvested by hand. Very pure fruit aromas, with ripe cherries at the core. Quite a serious structure on the palate, plenty of grip and minerals, but the finish is lifted by an ethereal cherry blossom note at the last.
2019 Hautes-Côtes de Nuits Rouge 2021-2026 12 BTLS £220
From a 3.2-hectare plot of 50+ year old vines high in the hills above Nuits-Saint-Georges. One of the best spots in the Hautes-Côtes, with a similar soil composition to Corton. Wonderful freshness, the Hautes-Côtes de Nuits is our go-to appellation in 2019 for quality and style, and this soars from the glass with violet florals and blue and red fruits.
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2019 Savigny-lès-Beaune, Premier Cru Clos des Guettes 2023-3032 6 BTLS £240
From a 0.5-hectare plot, planted via selection massale in 1990, the year of Mathias’ birth. Spicy dark fruits and cassis, lifted by floral notes. The palate is impressively refined, with mocha-dusted tannins and a minty lift. The finish is savoury, with smoky, meaty notes and reassuring grip. Premier Cru Savigny is a great source of value and quality in the Côte d’Or, and recent warm vintages and improvements in the cellar have resulted in wines of greater finesse than were previously thought possible.
2019 Pommard, Premier Cru Pezerolles 2024-2036 6 BTLS £395
Premier Cru Les Pezerolles is on the opposite side of the village to Les Chanlins, on the Beaune side, and accordingly the wines are more structured and darkly fruited. Lots of vigour here, with a slightly more mineral style than Les Chanlins. There is excellent weight and definition.
2019 Pommard, Premier Cru Les Chanlins 2024-2036 1 MAG £175
Premier Cru Les Chanlins is located on the Volnay side of Pommard, in between Volnay Premier Cru Les Pitures and Pommard Premier Cru Les Rugiens Haut. Decimated by frost in 2019, what has survived is of exceptional quality so the domaine have chosen to bottle this only in magnum format. Each magnum will be numbered by hand. Dark energy here, bramble fruit and Christmas spice. Impressively sophisticated tannins, this has much of the upfront charm of Volnay but the mineral, earthy finish is firmly in Pommard.
2019 Vosne-Romanée, Aux Réas 2024-2034 6 BTLS £325
The Aux Réas lieu-dit is an extension of the Premier Cru Clos de Réas, and always punches well above its village weight class. The nose is airy and open, with crushed strawberry and blueberry fruit. The palate is defined by supple tannins and tension coming from the acidity and the sapidity of the fruit. The finish is finely poised, with Vosne spiciness and florals wrapped around a mineral core. A superb Vosne villages and perhaps the best yet from this domaine.
CÔTE DE NUITS EXPLORE AND PURCHASE 2019 BURGUNDY EN PRIMEUR WINES AT JEROBOAMS.CO.UK 45 Marchand-Tawse and Domaine Tawse
Pascal Marchand arrived in Burgundy in 1983, and having established his reputation at top domaines such as Bruno Clair and Comte Armand, he went solo in 2006. In partnership with fellow Canadian, Murray Tawse, they now have combined an expanding range of Domaine owned vineyards with their micro-negociant arm, “Marchand-Tawse”. Many of the top terroirs of Burgundy are represented here, albeit in tiny volumes.
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2019 Savigny-lès-Beaune, Premier Cru Les Vergelesses 2021-2030 6 BTLS £150
Domaine Tawse. All domaine fruit, farmed organically on south facing steep slopes of chalk and marl. Les Vergelesses is the best terroir in Savigny-lès-Beaune, and this is made with exactly the same methods and attention to detail that is lavished on the domaine’s Grand Cru Corton-Charlemagne. Combining rich yellow orchard fruits with a bright minerality, this is a taut and finely-boned white Burgundy that would be at ease in illustrious company in the cellar and at the dinner table.
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2019 Ladoix, Premier Cru Les Gréchons et Foutrières 2021-2028 6 BTLS £195
Marchand-Tawse. Generally speaking, we put our foot down on the D974 and speed through Ladoix on our way into the Côte de Nuits. On the basis of this wine, the first Ladoix we’ve ever offered En Primeur, we may have been doing them a disservice. In fairness, much of the Ladoix produced on the flat by the road is pretty pedestrian, but this Premier Cru is high up on the slope, and is a continuation of the Grand Cru hill of Corton. Pascal insisted that we tasted it, describing it as, “The hidden gem on a wine list...if I’m paying.” A mouthwatering, sapid wine, with plenty of wet stone minerality, citrus fruit and riper stone fruit notes. This is indeed a hidden gem of the Côte de Beaune and fantastic value.
2019 Chassagne-Montrachet, 2021-2031 6 BTLS £325 Premier Cru Abbaye de Morgeot
Domaine Tawse. Abbaye de Morgeot is the historic, and best, plot within the much larger Morgeot vineyard. It surrounds the Abbaye, which was once home to an order of Cistercian monks who originally planted vines in the area. Typical production here is around four barrels, but sadly only one barrel has been made in 2019 due to frost. What has survived is mineral and vital, with an impressive concentration of stone fruit on the mid palate and a saline tinged finish. Snap this one up.
2019 Puligny-Montrachet, Premier Cru Champ Gain 2022-3032 6 BTLS £325
Domaine Tawse. Champ Gain is the highest of the Puligny Premier Crus, sitting just above Folatières at the peak of the hill. Unquestionably one of the greatest expressions of Puligny, and becoming increasingly famous due to the work of producers such as Etienne Sauzet, Pierre-Yves Colin-Morey, and Arnaud Ente. The combination of altitude, south-east exposure and 50+ year old vines result in a beautifully poised Puligny-Montrachet, with pure peach fruit and citrus peel, fleshed out by a touch of honeycomb and white flowers.
2019 Corton-Charlemagne, Grand Cru 2023-2034 3 BTLS £295
Domaine Tawse. A perfumed, expressive nose, with honeysuckle and yellow plum fruit to the fore. Reassuringly stricter on the palate at this early stage, with tightly coiled fruit, bright acidity, and minerality in spades. The finish is saturated with chalky dry extract and this should cellar well.
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2019 Côteaux Bourguignons 2021-2025 12 BTLS £120
Marchand-Tawse. A welcome return for Marchand-Tawse’s Côteaux Bourguignons, a wine we fell in love with in 2017 and are delighted to welcome back to the offer in 2019. This is the kind of wine you make only if you love Burgundy and its idiosyncrasies – 100% Gamay from two plots in Vosne- Romanée and Flagey Echézeaux, with 100% whole bunch fermentation and old vines of up to 70 years of age. Two sorting tables are used to ensure only the best fruit makes it into the blend, which is then aged for 11 months in used oak barrels. The result is a joyously sappy and expressive red, with crunchy fruits and silky, supple taninns. Tremendous value at a tenner a bottle in bond!
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2019 Côte de Nuits Villages 2021-2029 12 BTLS £240
Marchand-Tawse. A new wine this year, and we’ve snapped up the entire production for the UK, making it exclusive to Jeroboams. Côte de Nuits Villages has long been overlooked, and it covers a large and ill-defined area. You can label vines from Fixin in the north to Corgolin in the south as Côte de Nuits Villages, which definitely doesn’t help! Marchand-Tawse’s comes from 65+ year old vines in Comblanchien, the wonderful limestone terroir that has historically been more famous for its quarries and the quality of its stone. The 2019 soars from the glass with notes of plums, cassis, dark chocolate and humus. The tannins melt into the fruit, with a decisive acidity adding focus. This is a terrific value find, that would surely have been classified as Nuits-Saint-Georges were it on the other side of the line.
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2019 Beaune, Premier Cru Clos du Roi 2025-2033 6 BTLS £175
Domaine Tawse. One of Pascal’s favourite Premier Crus in the portfolio, he notes that their plot is the only one which is a genuine walled Clos and was probably the original Clos of King Louis IX. There is a clear difference in quality between the top and bottom of Clos du Roi, and this wine shows what can be achieved at the top. Combining a terrific purity of berry fruit with floral notes and mineral scents, there is a smoky note which Pascal assures is the Beaune terroir and not wood influence. The most impressive aspect here is the texture on the palate, which has a precision and an energy that shows what is possible from this historic terroir. Still primal, this deserves time in the cellar to unfurl.
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2019 Gevrey-Chambertin 2023-3034 6 BTLS £185
Domaine Tawse. 15% whole bunch, 20% new oak. The majority of the fruit here comes from three lieux-dits: La Justice, Les Murots and Grandes Rayes. The bouquet is pure and very expressive, with scents of cherries and berries, woodsmoke, and sous-bois. The palate is classy, with sappy red fruit and soil tones, finely grained tannins at this level and a finish of very impressive tension and balance. Another terrific Gevrey villages that has knocked 2019 out of the park.
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2019 Gevrey-Chambertin Aux Etelois 2023-3034 6 BTLS £195
Domaine Tawse. The 2019 Gevrey Chambertin Etelois comes from a plot located under Grand Cru Griotte Chambertin. It’s 100% destemmed and incorporates 20% new oak. The nose here is brighter and more floral than the village Gevrey, with wet stone mineral notes. Crunchy red and blue fruit on the palate, good grip from the tannins and a refreshing salinity on the finish that encourages another sip.
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2019 Nuits-St-Georges, Longecourts 2022-2030 6 BTLS £195
Marchand-Tawse. Always one of the hidden gems of the campaign, Les Longecourts is made from 60-year-old vines that are located immediately under the greatest vineyard in Nuits: Premier Cru Les Saint Georges. Les Longecourts is known for its small berries, which produce wines of concentration and structure. Sadly, these berries have only yielded a single barrel in 2019, down from 3 ½ in 2018. One barrel gives the winemaker fairly limited options in terms of ageing, and Marchand-Tawse have opted for no new oak this year, with 50% whole bunch. The resulting wine is a spicy and darkly fruited expression, with finely boned tannins and a wonderful depth of fruit across the palate.
2019 Volnay, Premier Cru Frémiets 2023-2037 6 BTLS £250
Domaine Tawse. 50% whole bunch and 30% new oak. A domaine owned vineyard, located next to the holdings of the Marquis d’Angerville at the south of the appellation. 20% new oak and 30% whole bunches used. Frémiets typically borrows from the Pommard style, and this has excellent structure, with spiced fruit compote notes and a savoury, mineral core. The orange zest character is again here, adding freshness; and the finish is remarkably composed, displaying a chalky minerality. Perhaps the best young Frémiets we’ve tasted at this address.
2019 Morey-St-Denis, Premier Cru Clos des Ormes 2023-2035 6 BTLS £265
Marchand-Tawse. 25% whole bunch, 25% new oak. Clos des Ormes was the first wine that Pascal made in the Côte de Nuits back in 2005, and the surpise that Morey-Saint-Denis could be styled like this was a revelation to him. Located just under Grand Cru Clos de la Roche and almost touching the Gevrey Grand Cru Mazoyères Chambertin. 65-year-old vines on a similar terroir to Clos de la Roche, with a shallow surface layer of clay over rocky limestone. A perfumed and expressive nose, with the scent of a rose garden mingled with spiced plums and orange zest. This is a particularly refined and airy expression of a great Morey-Saint-Denis terroir.
2019 Morey-St-Denis, Premier Cru Genavrières 2023-2035 6 BTLS £265
Marchand-Tawse. 80% whole bunch, 50% new oak. The Genavrières name references the juniper berry, which thrives on windswept, limestone slopes in Burgundy. A new wine for us in 2019, this is the counterpoint to Clos des Ormes and is located high on the slope above Clos de la Roche. A very pure and precise nose, with fresh red berries that effortlessly shrug off any of the warmth of the growing season. The palate has excellent tension, with filigree tannins and a precise, almost clinical finish. A wonderful expression of a hidden gem in Morey-Saint-Denis.
2019 Vosne-Romanée 2022-2032 6 BTLS £275
Marchand-Tawse. 100% destemmed, 30% new oak. Marchand-Tawse’s 2019 Vosne-Romanée is primarily a blend of Hautes Mazières and Bas Mazières. These relatively unknown lieux-dit sites are nestled in amongst some of the most expensive vineyards in the world, at the border with Echézeaux and Clos Vougeot. The nose is complex at this level, with raspberries, Chinese five spice, and orange rind. The palate is initially supple and inviting, with velvety tannins and a lovely concentration of spiced Vosne fruit. The finish is long and precise, this is a finely boned 2019 with great appeal.
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2019 Gevrey-Chambertin, Premier Cru Champeaux 2024-2036 6 BTLS £295
Marchand-Tawse. Champeaux is the northernmost Premier Cru of Gevrey, sitting high on the hill at the limit of the appellation. Its particularity is its eastern exposure, the vines face the morning sunlight but are shaded in the afternoon – a useful factor in these increasingly solar vintages. 100% destemmed. The cooler microclimate is evidenced here by an airy and refined nose of red and blue fruits, with floral notes emerging with time in the glass. The palate has impressive weight and structure, but very much built around and in proportion with the medium bodied frame, leading to a finish that peacock tails with more florals and a saline oyster shell note. A finely crafted and impressive Gevrey Premier Cru that is well worth checking out in 2019.
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2019 Pommard, Premier Cru Les Rugiens 2024-2037 6 BTLS £325
Marchand-Tawse. 50% whole bunch, 100% new oak. Just one barrel produced, we’d buy it all if they’d let us! Pascal will be forever tied to Pommard’s iconic Clos des Epenots due to his work at Comte Armand, and he clearly has an affinity for Pommard and an eye for its top terroirs. Pommard has been desperately unfashionable for years now, and as a consequence remains well priced relative to its peers in the Côte d’Or. Pommard has clearly benefitted from global warming and better winemaking, and this is a superb example. Sourced from the lower Rugiens Bas part of the Premier Cru, this has a wonderful clarity of berry and cherry fruits, licorice, and smoked aromas. The palate is full bodied and relatively broad shouldered as you might expect, but built around impressively defined structure of mature tannins and lively acidity. The finish is long and grippy: a textbook example of the iron fist in a velvet glove.
2019 Gevrey-Chambertin Premier Cru Champeaux 2024-2036 6 BTLS £350
Domaine Tawse. Confusingly, there is both a Domaine Tawse and a Marchand-Tawse bottling of Gevrey Premier Cru Champeaux! More in the darker fruit spectrum than the Marchand-Tawse bottling, but sharing many of the same floral and mineral notes. Very finely boned, with poised acidity and bitter chocolate on the finish.
2019 Gevrey-Chambertin Premier Cru Lavaut St Jacques 2025-2040 6 BTLS £395
Marchand-Tawse. 100% destemmed and 30% new oak. Old vines here, with 50% planted pre WW2 and 50% 60 years old. Pascal is particularly fond of this special spot in Lavaut, which has high diurnal variation between cold nights and high afternoon temperatures. The nose has exotic spice and citrus spray, whilst the palate remains airy and cool with bright acidity and supple tannins. A refreshing salinity on the finish adds another layer of complexity to what is shaping up to be very fine.
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2019 Chambolle Musigny, Premier Cru Fuées 2024-2036 6 BTLS £495
Marchand-Tawse. Premier Cru Les Fuées is a continuation of Grand Cru Bonnes-Mares, producing structured and mineral wines of considerable aging potential. The name Les Fuées is an old Burgundian term for the area that a man could turn with a hoe in a single day’s work. Darkly fruited and spicy, you could be forgiven for thinking that this was from neighbouring Morey-Saint-Denis at first. The southeasten exposure of the site has allowed full-ripening, and this is a powerfully built Premier Cru that merits time in the cellar.
2019 Vosne-Romanée, Premier Cru Les Suchots 2024-2038 3 BTLS £275
Marchand-Tawse. Les Suchots sits in between the Grand Crus of Vosne-Romanée and is one of the most famous Premier Crus of the appellation. Marchand-Tawse have changed their fruit sourcing for this vintage, but the vines are still in the upper Suchots part of the Cru. The 2019 is completely destemmed and only one barrel has been produced, with maturation in a one-year-old barrel. The clarity of dark Pinot fruit is impressive, with floral and spiced notes wafting across the palate. Very well balanced, and nicely poised, it’s a shame there is so little of it in 2019!
2019 Clos de la Roche, Grand Cru 2027-2039 3 BTLS £395
Marchand-Tawse. A darker, more formidable nose than the Clos Saint-Denis, with cassis, blueberries and an exotic, smoked meat note. The palate is full bodied and impressively concentrated, with powdery tannins that melt into dark chocolate and a savoury, mineral note that is freshened by peonies on the finish.
2019 Clos St Denis, Grand Cru 2026-2038 3 BTLS £395
Marchand-Tawse. 25% whole bunch, 100% new oak. Originally the most famous Cru of the village, and the one which gave Morey its name. Often overlooked in favour of its sibling Clos de la Roche and its monopole Grand Cru cousins, Marchand-Tawse’s 2018 was one of the stars of the vintage and they seem determined to repeat the trick in 2019. Sourced from the original, eponymous part of the vineyard, Pascal describes this as the most underrated Grand Cru and it’s easy to see why. Wonderfully perfumed and silky, so light on its feet with filigree tannins and perfectly pitched spiced fruit.
2019 Charmes-Chambertin, Grand Cru 2026-2040 3 BTLS £395
Marchand-Tawse. This wine is Mazoyères-Chambertin bottled under the more common name of Charmes-Chambertin. Domaine Tawse also produce a Mazoyères which is bottled under that label. 100% destemmed and 50% new oak. Dark cherries and an intriguing blood orange note, with espresso and sous bois adding complexity. This is a particularly structured and age-worthy rendition of what is often a relatively early drinking Grand Cru. The tannins and textural components suggest that this merits time in the cellar.
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2019 Mazoyères Chambertin Grand Cru 2025-2040 3 BTLS £750
Domaine Tawse. This wine used to be labelled as Charmes Chambertin under the Domaine Maume ownership, but Pascal and Murray decided to bottle it as Mazoyères because the fruit is from that proportion of the vineyard. You often find more minerality in Mazoyères relative to Charmes, and that’s definitely the case here with crushed rocks, smoke and saline notes. The fruit is on the crunchy red fruit spectrum, adding a subtle sweetness to the mineral-soaked finish.
Domaine Rossignol-Trapet
Jacques Rossignol formed Rossignol-Trapet in 1990 with his sons, Nicolas and David, and in the late nineties they adopted biodynamic methods with the aim of making the wines purer and more refined. The sons now run the estate, which was certified biodynamic in 2007. They farm 11 hectares in Gevrey-Chambertin and 2 hectares in Beaune. Nicolas and David have been on a tremendous run of form since 2015, and are quietly making some of Gevrey’s most refined and impressive wines. They have increased their proportion of whole bunch in recent vintages, and new oak remains very modest. In 2019 they felt it was important to use the lightest touch in the winery, with no pigeage.
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2019 Bourgogne Pinot Noir 2022-2029 6 BTLS £100
Just 0.90 hectares of vines spread over two vineyards around Gevrey, Le Pressonier and La Grand Champs. The oldest vines date back to 1967. Everything you could hope for in a quality Bourgogne Rouge, with generous crunchy red cherry fruit and floral tones. The palate is vibrant and energetic, so much up front appeal here and it will provide lots of enjoyment at the dinner table.
2019 Gevrey-Chambertin, Vieilles Vignes 2023-2033 6 BTLS £195
This old vine Gevrey-Chambertin is a blend of plots from around the village, with an average of 65-year-old vines. A more serious nose here, with darker fruits and fresh herbs. The palate is broad and textured, with plenty of ripe fruits and a very impressive tannic maturity. The finish is long and luxurious, this is an impeccable Gevrey-Chambertin villages.
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2019 Beaune Premier Cru, Les Teurons 2023-2033 6 BTLS £240
Teurons vies with Grèves for the title of best Beaune Premier Cru, and the Rossignol-Trapet parcel is high up in the vineyard on the border with Les Cras. The soil here is stonier and poorer and the vines are 40-80 years old. Jacques Rossignol brought the Teurons parcel with him from his family domaine when he married Mado Trapet to create Rossignol-Trapet. Red fruits and florals, but with more sophisticated tannins and texture that mark this out as perhaps their finest rendition to date.
2019 Gevrey-Chambertin, Premier Cru Petite Chapelle 2025-2040 6 BTLS £450
Petite-Chapelle is located immediately below the Chapelle-Chambertin Grand Cru climats of La Chapelle and Les Gémeaux. The soil is deeper here, rich in clay, and this is a step up in power and intensity. Ferrous, mineral notes on the nose, this has a darker and more brooding personality than Clos Prieur. The palate is toned, with firm but ripe tannins adding plenty of structure. This is a very complete Gevrey Premier Cru that is both mineral-soaked and silky, there is a density and length on the finish that nudges the Grand Crus in the ribs.
2019 Gevrey-Chambertin, Premier Cru Clos Prieur 2024-2038 6 BTLS £450
Rossignol-Trapet own 0.26 hectares of the walled Clos Prieur, located just across the road from Mazis-Chambertin. Red bramble fruit on the nose, which is lithe and displays admirable purity. The palate is medium bodied, very refined, with silky tannins and a saline, floral lift on the finish. A particularly charming and appealing version of the terroir in 2019.
2019 Chapelle-Chambertin, Grand Cru 2026-2042 6 BTLS £750
Rossignol-Trapet have 0.54 hectares of Chapelle-Chambertin, with an average vine age of 60 years. It’s a solar vineyard, with good exposure and early ripening. The nose is much richer and darker than Latricières, with black fruits, tobacco and earth. The palate is already expressive, the tannins are silky despite their scale and the finish remains fresh and tinged with smoke and minerals. This is very exuberant but the length makes it clear this is Grand Cru quality.
2019 Latricières-Chambertin, Grand Cru 2026-2042 6 BTLS £750
Rossignol-Trapet have 0.73 hectares of Latricières, which is the southern continuation of Le Chambertin. The soil is very thin and stony, and Rossignol Trapet’s plots are slightly cooler due to their proximity to the forest. The combination of the warmth of the vintage and the inherent coolness of Latricières have created a wine of exquisite poise and balance. The fruit is perfumed, vibrant and stunning in its purity.
2019 Le Chambertin, Grand Cru 2026-2052 6 BTLS £1,100
Rossignol Trapet own two parcels in this iconic Grand Cru. You immediately know you’re in the presence of greatness, initially mineral and aloof but with time in the glass a kaleidoscope of berry fruits, exotic clementine notes and rose petals comes to the fore. Impeccably balanced on the palate, there is a discreet power here that hints of structure but today is content to sit in the background.
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Domaine Faiveley is one of the largest vineyard owners in Burgundy, with 125 hectares under their control, including many of the Côte d’Or’s top Premier and Grand Crus. The holdings have been patiently acquired since 1825, and seventh generation Erwan Faiveley is firmly looking towards the future.
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2019 Puligny-Montrachet, Premier Cru Champ Gain 2024-2034 6 BTLS £350
One of the more recent acquisitions of the domaine, this 1.05-hectare plot is located relatively high up on the slope and was purchased by Faiveley in 2014. It’s a cool site, and soars from the glass with zesty citrus fruits and candied peel notes. A finely judged balance of mineral austerity and flamboyant fruit on the palate, with an exotic touch of lemongrass on the finish.
2019 Meursault, Premier Cru Charmes 2023-2033 6 BTLS £395
Produced from a small parcel of 50-year-old vines at the top of Les Charmes. So often the most elegant of Faiveley’s Meursault Premier Crus, this elevated site is on superb form in 2019, with green orchard fruits and white flowers. Riper stone fruits on the palate, with good depth and a touch of honeysuckle on the finish.
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2019 Corton-Charlemagne, Grand Cru 2025-2037 6 BTLS £895
This 0.86-hectare plot has been in the Faiveley family since 1874, with the oldest vines dating back to 1933. It’s at the top of the hill, just above their eponymous Corton Grand Cru, Clos des Cortons Faiveley. A small proportion of the blend comes from Chardonnay vines that were replanted at the very top of Clos des Cortons Faiveley. A stylish and focused expression of the hill, with excellent acid balance and a vibrating, electric personality. There’s ample fruit here, but this is all about texture and tension at this stage.
2019 Bienvenues-Bâtard-Montrachet, Grand Cru 2023-2033 6 BTLS £1,400
This 3.6-hectare Grand Cru is located entirely in Puligny-Montrachet. Faiveley own a 0.5-hectare plot, purchased in 2008. The vines were planted in two stages, in 1961 and 1988. Orchard fruit, fresh lime, and vanilla-spiked patisserie notes. The palate is full bodied, with lavish fruit and plenty of dry extract that coats the mouth. Sophisticated oak frames the wine, already showing excellent integration and bodes well for future development. Perfectly balanced acidity adds vibrancy to the finish, which is lifted by floral tones of jasmine.
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2019 Nuits St Georges, Premier Cru Les Damodes 2023-2036 6 BTLS £325
The name references the druidesses who historically inhabited the area. It’s a high-altitude 0.81 hectare plot bordering Vosne-Romanée, and the oldest vines were planted in the 1950s. Mouth-watering black cherry and riper cassis fruit here, with liquorice notes. The palate is amply structured, there’s no mistaking we are in Nuits here, but the level of sophistication on the tannins is particularly impressive. Riper fig notes are refreshed by orange zest, the finish is mouth-coating in its persistence. This is a wonderful Nuits Premier Cru that is a fine follow up to their epic 2018.
2019 Gevrey-Chambertin, Premier Cru Les Cazetiers 2024-2038 6 BTLS £475
The Cazetiers name references ‘castle’ and the vineyard’s location just above the historic Chateâu de Gevrey. Many believe it should have been reclassified as a Grand Cru in the 1930s. Faiveley are the biggest holder of Les Cazetiers, owning approximately half of the appellation with 4.05 hectares. The darker side of Cazetiers is to the fore, with blackberry and cherry fruits that are refreshed by notes of blood orange. Medium bodied, with plenty of chocolate-coated tannins and balancing acidity. The finish is saline and smoky, a wine of excellent complexity that will evolve beautifully.
2019 Chambolle Musigny, Premier Cru Les Charmes 2024-2035 6 BTLS £475
Faiveley work with a grower here and they harvest the grapes and vinify the wine themselves. Raspberries, flowers and smoky mineral notes on the nose. Pleasingly saline on the palate, the sappy fruit and floral notes reveal excellent Chambolle typicity.
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2019 Chambolle Musigny, Premier Cru Les Fuées 2024-2038 6 BTLS £650
Premier Cru Les Fuées is to the north of the village, just after Grand Cru Bonnes Mares. Faiveley own a 0.18 hectare plot dating back to 1944, with a proportion replanted in 2011.
2019 Corton, Clos des Corton 2025-2045 6 BTLS £795
Clos des Cortons Faiveley is one of only two AC Monopoles in Burgundy that take the owner’s name (the other being Romanée-Conti). Located in the lieu-dit Le Rognet et Corton, which lies just northeast of Corton Les Renardes. It’s been owned by the Faiveley family since 1874, and the oldest vines date back to 1932. Faiveley always show this at the end of the tasting, following all of the Côte de Nuits Grand Crus, in deference to its historically formidable structure. This wine perhaps best encapsulates the dramatic improvements under Erwan Faiveley’s leadership – the quality of the terroir is expressed via the dynamism of the fruit and the winemaking is impeccable. This is a Grand Cru that manages the paradox of being at once full-bodied and powerful and yet also utterly weightless.
2019 Clos Vougeot, Grand Cru 2025-2043 6 BTLS £795
There are currently 82 owners sharing the 50 hectares of the iconic Clos Vougeot. Faiveley own three parcels, two at the lower part of the Clos and a third in the centre and close to the château. The oldest vines here date back to 1940, with the other parcels planted in the 1970s and 1980s. The more humid plots of Clos Vougeot can benefit from a drier season, and Faiveley’s 2019 is on fine form. Raspberry and cherry fruits, lifted by candied citrus peel. Strongly mineral on the palate, there is plenty of ripe fruit here but it finishes lively and poised with a mineral grip.
2019 Echézeaux Orveaux, Grand Cru 2024-2046 6 BTLS £850
The first records of Echézeaux date back to the end of the 13th Century and the monks from the abbey of Citeaux were aware of the outstanding quality of the terroir. Faiveley’s 0.83 hectare plot was primarily planted in 1950 and 1956, with a proportion replanted in 1985. It is located in the En Orveaux lieu-dit, on the slope close to Grand Cru Musigny. A very pure and expressive aroma of red cherries and berries, with violet highlights. Silky texture on the palate, with supple tannins and a marmalade note adding complexity.
2019 Latricières Chambertin, Grand Cru 2025-2045 6 BTLS £895
Faiveley’s plot of Latricières represents one of their oldest holdings, with 1.21 hectares purchased in the 1860s. The vines were replanted in 1958, 1984 and 1989. Latricières has a storied history dating back to 1508, and was known as ‘Petite Merveille’ (Little Wonder) in the Middle Ages. The relatively cool climate of Latricières produced stunning wines in the heat of 2018, and Faiveley have repeated the trick in 2019. Combining the exotic spice of Clos de la Roche with the regal austerity of Chambertin, this is more savoury than sweet, with site-specific aromas of fresh earth and minerals. Perhaps the dark horse in the Faiveley portfolio, this is worth hoarding before the secret gets out.
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2019 Mazis-Chambertin, Grand Cru 2024-2040 6 BTLS £995
Mazis-Chambertin is named after the small houses known as ‘Mazis’ that used to be present in the vineyard. It is the most northerly of the Gevrey-Chambertin Grand Crus and Faiveley’s parcel lies in the upper section or ‘Mazis-Haut’. Whilst some wines impress for their imposing power on the palate, Faiveley’s Mazis is a seamless and perfectly-judged effort. A fine streak of acidity runs through the wine, which is already superbly integrated and complete. The finish is explosive, fanning out in a peacock’s tail of vivid fruit, florals, and minerals.
Domaine Odoul-Coquard
Sebastien Odoul’s childhood friend Arnaud Mortet was amongst the first to highlight the quality here, and we are delighted to have been following the domaine since the 2014 vintage. Sebastien cut his teeth at Dujac and Méo-Camuzet prior to joining his father at the family domaine, and 2019 is without question the finest vintage produced to date. The purity of fruit from their venerable old vines can shine via meticulous attention to detail in the cellar, and a steady reduction in new oak over the previous couple of vintages. Volumes are sadly down across the board, but what has been produced is particularly vivid and exciting.
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2019 Bourgogne Pinot Noir 2021-2030 6 BTLS £95
A blend of 60-year-old vines from around Chambolle-Musigny and 50-year-old vines from around Gevrey-Chambertin. Volumes here are reduced by over 50% on the previous vintage. Sebastien employs no new oak at this level, preferring to allow the fruit to shine with a blend of 1-, 2- and 3-year-old barrels. The result is a beautifully expressive and succulent Bourgogne, with similar density of fruit to their 2018 but more freshness on the finish.
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2019 Morey St Denis, Les Crais Gillon 2022-2032 6 BTLS £185
Les Crais Gillon is a small 0.5-hectare plot located east of the village of Morey, just below the Route des Grand Crus. The vines here are 60+ years old and have very small berries, producing concentrated fruit. Sadly in 2019 those berries held little juice, and volumes are reduced by almost 50%, with only 7 barrels made in total. Morey-Saint-Denis is on top form in 2019, and the balance here between the purity of dark fruits and Morey spice is particularly appealing. The finish is expansive, with the generosity of fruit reined in by earthy mineral notes and more spice. This is punching above its weight.
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2019 Gevrey Chambertin 2022-2032 6 BTLS £185
A blend of three parcels, with vines up to 40 years old. No new oak again here, with Sebastien re-using barrels that have previously matured his two Grand Crus: Clos Vougeot and Charmes Chambertin. A dark and savoury Gevrey villages, quite mineral and complex on the palate, which is muscular and toned. With a touch of sous-bois and spice on the finish, this is an excellent villages wine and a fine example of the quality Gevrey has achieved in 2019 – it seems particularly well suited to the vintage.
2019 Chambolle Musigny 2022-2032 6 BTLS £195
Odoul Coquard’s 2019 Chambolle-Musigny is a blend of four old vine plots from around the village, including 60- and 70-year old vines in the blend. Sebastien noted that the combination of old vines and drought conditions resulted in much lower yields than normal, with only 4 ½ barrels produced. The nose combines pure red and black berry fruit with peony floral notes. There is a good level of natural fruit sweetness, which gives impressive depth at this level. The balance here of fruit and terroir is really impressive, and it is a fine example of blending old vines fruit to create a textbook Chambolle Musigny.
2019 Nuits St Georges, Les Argillats 2022-2033 6 BTLS £195
Les Argillats is located on the Vosne side of Nuits-Saint-Georges, at the same elevation as Premier Cru Les Damodes but facing fully south. These 80 year old vines are the oldest holdings of the domaine. 4 ½ barrels produced in 2019, (normal production is 8 ½ barrels). 50% new oak. These old vines are on particularly strong form in 2019: the nose gives the taster the perception of Vosne, but on the palate the power and density of Nuits is to the fore. The tannins are particularly impressive here, and the finish is long and refined. This would be an excellent Premier Cru ringer in a blind tasting!
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2019 Vosne Romanée Vieilles Vignes 2022-2034 6 BTLS £210
A subtle change of name for this wine in 2019, with Sebastien following through on his threat to add Vieilles Vignes to the label to tease his father, who is the same age as the vines. Just 2 barrels produced, and 50% new oak. A beautiful Vosne-Romanée, with peony and rose petal aromas that wrap around a core of bramble fruits.
2019 Chambolle Musigny, Les Fremières 2023-2035 6 BTLS £210
This Chambolle-Musigny lieu-dit is located at the junction with Premier Crus Beaux Bruns and Les Noirots, and is made from 35-year-old vines. It remains relatively unknown, despite Domaine Leroy being the largest holder in the vineyard. The 2019 is borrowing from the Bonnes-Mares playbook, with a grippy, ferrous mineral feel. The finish is long, with the friendlier and floral side of Chambolle making an appearance at the last. This will cellar well and is another over-achiever in 2019 – a vintage where the best village wines are often tracking at Premier Cru level.
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2019 Gevrey Chambertin, Premier Cru Aux Combottes 2025-2038 6 BTLS £350
Aux Combottes is the southern extension of Grand Cru Latricières-Chambertin and Odoul- Coquard are the only domaine with vines running north to south, giving complete coverage of the terroir. Local legend has it that Aux Combottes was refused classification as a Grand Cru of Gevrey because the majority of vineyard owners were based in Morey and the village of Gevrey refused to give them the accolade. The Odoul family are proud residents of Morey so we can’t see that changing any time soon! The oldest vines here are 80 years old, contributing 1 ½ barrels to the total volume of 7 ½ barrels. Soaring aromatics, with spiced plum and cassis notes, lifted further by violet aromas. The texture on the palate could convince you that we’re already in Grand Cru territory; Sebastien notes that it often reminds him of his Clos Vougeot. A chiselled and taut palate, this is a wonderful example of power, depth, purity, and finish. My cellar note finishes with equilibrium underlined twice.
2019 Morey St Denis, Premier Cru La Riotte 2024-2036 6 BTLS £350
This has to be one of the best stories in Burgundy: the walled vineyard is owned collectively by the village of Morey and is leased to Odoul-Coquard because they have the least Grand Cru vineyards in the village. In 2019 Sebastien has produced a total of six barrels: he is allowed to bottle four for himself and two are given back to the village for fêtes and parties. Summer pudding on the nose, with a touch of sweet spice adding that Morey character. Plenty of upfront appeal on the palate due to the exuberance of the fruit, but the serious side of the vineyard can’t be denied with a mineral quality that grips the taster on the finish. This is a superb Morey Premier Cru that is in very safe hands with Sebastien!
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2019 Chambolle Musigny, Premier Cru Les Fuées 2024-2036 6 BTLS £350
Les Fuées is a 4.38 hectare vineyard that forms the south-west border of the Grand Cru Bonnes-Mares. Odoul-Coquard have produced one and a half barrels from their 70-year-old vines in 2019. A darker and brooding fruit character here, with a muscular frame of tannins and some oak influence at this early stage. Sebastien prefers new oak for this baby Bonnes- Mares, noting that “Fuées can take oak” and it will be integrated during the ageing process.
2019 Chambolle Musigny, Premier Cru Les Sentiers 2025-2043 6 BTLS £350
Just one barrel made, from 55 year old vines. Also located under Bonnes Mares, Sentiers is the neighbour of Baudes and Sebastien’s vines are only 200m apart. Despite the proximity, the character is completely different – this is a much darker and more structured expression of Chambolle-Musigny. It needs several years in the cellar but the quality is excellent.
2019 Chambolle Musigny, Premier Cru Les Baudes 2024-2036 6 BTLS £350
Just two barrels made here, from a Premier Cru located immediately underneath Bonnes- Mares. You would expect more structure here given the proximity to the Grand Cru, but this is a textbook Chambolle with roses and red berry fruit. Silky tannins and bright acidity frame the fruit. This is a joyous and expressive wine that combines ripe fruit with wonderful freshness.
2019 Clos Vougeot, Grand Cru 2025-2042 6 BTLS £550
Odoul-Coquard have seven rows of vines which run from top to bottom of the Grand Cru, giving them the full spectrum of the terroir. Three barrels produced in 2019. Aromas of dark berries and plums on the nose, which are given added complexity by notes of orange peel and rose petals. There is a savoury dark chocolate note on the palate, and an exotic note of incense on the finish. The quiet improvement of quality from Clos Vougeot by quality- conscious producers shouldn’t be ignored – this is a powerful and expressive Clos Vougeot with great panache.
2019 Charmes Chambertin, Grand Cru 2024-2040 6 BTLS £550
A blend of two parcels, 85% of the blend is from 60-year-old vines and 15% from 70 year old vines. 3 ½ barrels produced in 2019. Drawing breath after the power of the Gevrey- Chambertin Aux Combottes, the Charmes-Chambertin impresses for its airy, effortless quality and lightness of touch. A lithesome palate of red fruits and subtle spices, the pleasure is to the fore here and the structure is almost entirely concealed behind the fruit. This will be a Grand Cru with considerable early appeal, but will age gracefully.
CÔTE DE NUITS EXPLORE AND PURCHASE 2019 BURGUNDY EN PRIMEUR WINES AT JEROBOAMS.CO.UK 60 Domaine Jean-Marc Millot
Jean-Marc Millot started bottling his own wines in 1992, but it wasn’t until 1997 that he took control of other family vineyards to make the range that we see today. Jean-Marc’s daughter, Alix, is now at the helm, and she’s brought increased energy to the domaine and into the wines. Volumes in 2019 are sadly down 15-30%, but these may be the best wines ever made at this address.
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2019 Côte de Nuits Villages, Aux Faulques 2022-2030 6 BTLS £180
Aux Faulques comes from a single vineyard which is only about 500m south of the famous Nuits-Saint-Georges monopole Clos de la Marechalé. The Millot’s own 1.8 of the 2.8-hectare Aux Faulques vineyard – their oldest vines are 60-70 years old. Year-in-year-out this is one of our favourite wines in the range, but it seems to have found a different gear in 2019. Alix notes that they are using a new destemmer for the grapes, which has translated to increased finesse in the wine. Airy and crunchy Pinot fruit, with a creamy texture and compelling perfume of spices and florals on the finish.
2019 Vosne-Romanée, Premier Cru Les Suchots 2024-2038 6 BTLS £650
Jean-Marc & Alix have one plot in Les Suchots, totalling 0.28 hectares, with a vine age of over 40 years. There is excellent purity of red fruit on the nose, lifted by petals and herbs. The palate harmonious, finely textured and showing plenty of energy. The silky tannins grip subtly on the finish. This is a super Suchots.
2019 Echézeaux, Grand Cru 2025-2040 6 BTLS £895
The domaine’s classic Echézeaux is a blend of plots in Poulaillères, Echézeaux du Dessus and Clos St Denis. The purity of fruit here is particularly impressive, very much in the red fruit spectrum with vivid Pinot fruit. Finessed and finely boned, with an appealing blood orange note on the finish, this is another very accomplished Echézeaux from Alix and her father.
CÔTE DE NUITS EXPLORE AND PURCHASE 2019 BURGUNDY EN PRIMEUR WINES AT JEROBOAMS.CO.UK 61 Domaine Henri Gouges
Henri Gouges is one of the most important domaines both in Nuits-Saint-Georges and in Burgundy as a whole, and was one of the early pioneers of domaine bottling in the 1920s. The domaine owns 14.5 hectares, with their 12 hectares of Premier Cru vineyards remaining unchanged since the 1930s. Gregory Gouges described 2019 as having the charm and perfume of 2017 and the structure and density of 2018, which sounds pretty good to us! Gouges often still carries the reputation of their wines of the past that required decades in the cellar to soften. The reality is that things changed here some time ago now and the modern Gouges wines retain the typicity of their origins in Nuits but are made with a much lighter touch – the 2017s that were re-tasted at the domaine are already drinking beautifully.
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2019 Bourgogne Pinot Blanc 2021-2026 6 BTLS £105
One of the wonderful oddities of Burgundy, Henri Gouges discovered the Pinot Blanc mutation of Pinot Noir in his beloved Clos des Porrets in 1936. He used cuttings to create a nursery that became the base from which he expanded the domaine’s holdings of Pinot Blanc. Today, their Bourgogne is primarily made from a 30 year old 0.7 hectare plot in the Hautes Côte de Nuits called Les Dames Huguettes. Gouges also maintain Pinot Blanc in three Premier Crus in Nuits-Saint-Georges: Les Crots, La Perrière and the mother plot of Pinot Blanc – Clos des Porrets-St-Georges. Grapes from Les Crots and Clos des Porrets find their way into the Bourgogne Blanc when yields are too low to bottle them individually. Citrus curd on the nose, with apple blossom aromas. The palate is silky and open for business, with finely balanced acidity adding freshness. A delicious and unique Bourgogne Blanc!
2019 Nuits St Georges Blanc, Premier Cru La Perrière 2022-2032 6 BTLS £375
The 2018 edition of Nuits Saint-Georges Les Perrière Blanc stopped us in our tracks, and on the evidence of 2019 this wine appears to be now consistently operating at a higher level. This 0.389 hectare plot sits high on the slope in the heart of the Premier Cru and was planted in the 1940s. Smoky, graphite aromas on the nose, wrapped around tightly coiled lemon and lime fruits. The palate opens with fleshy orchard fruits and a creamy mouthfeel, which is swifty reined in by tensile acidity and more palate-staining minerality. Gregory notes that the crucial factor in this wine is finding the correct date to pick because the maturity moves quickly. On this showing they have nailed it again.
CÔTE DE NUITS EXPLORE AND PURCHASE 2019 BURGUNDY EN PRIMEUR WINES AT JEROBOAMS.CO.UK 62 RED DRINK DATES CASE SIZE PRICE
2019 Nuits St Georges 2023-2031 6 BTLS £210
An assemblage of nine plots, primarily from south of the village on clay and limestone soils. The Le Crots plot to the north of the village is on chalk and provides lift and finesse. The aim here is to retain freshness and acidity, and accordingly the harvest was relatively early and the wine was bottled just before the harvest to retain the fruit. Classic Nuits on the nose, with red and black fruit earthy tones. Velvety tannins caress the palate with a dusting of mocha, but the real star of the show is the limpid fruit that shines through with a spray of orange zest on the finish. 30% less produced than in 2018.
2019 Nuits St Georges, Premier Cru Clos des Porrets 2024-2037 6 BTLS £270
Gouges’ monopole Clos des Porrets Saint-Georges definitely flies under the radar in comparison to the most famous monopoles of the region. Henri Gouges was so taken by this plot that he held off replanting for as long as possible – it was eventually replanted in the 1970s. Those vines are now of an age where they’re producing top quality fruit. Vibrant red fruits and florals on the nose, Gregory notes that this has more red fruit character than the 2018 rendition. Suave tannins and sappy fruit across the palate, this is a disarmingly charming Nuits Premier Cru that just tightens up on the finish with a ferrous grip.
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2019 Nuits St Georges, Premier Cru Les Chaignots 2024-2037 6 BTLS £275
The 0.4 hectare Les Chaignots plot was planted in 1960, and is the only vineyard chez Gouges located on the Vosne side of the appellation. Gouges vie with Mugneret Gibourg and Robert Chevillon for the title of Champion of Chaignots, and their 2019 is a contender. Red berries, rose petals, and sous bois notes, this could almost be over the border in Vosne. Terrific energy and focus on the palate, which builds in intensity towards the finish with mocha tannins and a touch of Sanguinello on the finish.
2019 Nuits St Georges, Premier Cru Les Vaucrains 2025-2040 6 BTLS £450
Les Vaucrains is one of the best Premier Crus in Nuits-Saint-Georges, sitting above Les Saint Georges on the steep upper slope just below the line where vineyard becomes forest. Vaucrains means ‘worth nothing’ in old French, due to the poorness of the soil which made it unsuitable for agriculture. Periodically replanting a vineyard is necessary to preserve these iconic terroirs for future generations, and Gouges took the decision to replant the middle portion of Vaucrains 15 years ago. These vines are now at full maturity, and add drive and energy to the depth and complexity of the 80 year old vines that make up the rest of the plot. This relatively cool location has excelled again, with a subtle nose of pressed flowers that fans out on the palate with cool, jellied fruits and mineral tones. The tannins enter stage left at the finish to remind the taster that we’re in one of the top terroirs of Nuits-Saint-Georges.
CÔTE DE NUITS EXPLORE AND PURCHASE 2019 BURGUNDY EN PRIMEUR WINES AT JEROBOAMS.CO.UK 63 Domaine Bruno Clavelier
Bruno started at the domaine in 1987 and farmed organically and biodynamically long before it was fashionable; following the work of his grandfather who preferred to use natural treatments rather than chemicals. Bruno believes that great wines come from respecting the terroir and the exchange between the soil, the plant, and the light. We missed tasting in the cellar this year, surrounded by Bruno’s rock collection, which he uses to visually explain his terroirs. We tasted the wines in London, and they are beautifully sculpted, with purity of fruit and terroir expression to the fore.
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2019 Bourgogne Aligoté 2021-2027 6 BTLS TBC
Bruno’s vines were planted in 1921 and are the prized ‘golden Aligoté’ or Aligoté doré. Intensely fruited on the nose, which follows on the palate with a luxurious texture of minerals and spice. This wine is always difficult to resist in youth, but experience has shown that it always repays time in the cellar. Unbeatable value for such old vines crafted with such care and attention in the cellar.
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2019 Bourgogne Passetoutgrain 2021-2025 6 BTLS TBC
90% Pinot Noir and 10% Gamay from a single plot of 80 year old vines. Light on its feet, with a wonderful purity of summer berries and mineral tones. The palate is creamy in texture and delicious, with the old vines giving extra depth of fruit. This is a delicious glou-glou wine that is crying out to be enjoyed during the summer months.
2019 Corton-Rognet, Grand Cru 2028-2045 6 BTLS TBC
Le Rognet is located on the Ladoix side of the Corton hill, immediately under Faiveley’s monopole Clos des Cortons Faiveley. Bruno owns a 0.34-hectare plot facing east on the mid slope. Two thirds of the vineyard are 70 years old, with 35-year-old vines for the remaining third. This always offers a clear contrast to the Premier Crus, and Bruno’s 2019 shows excellent typicity, with aromas of smoke, game, earth and minerals. The palate is exotically fruited, with quince and spiced plums. Mouthcoating tannins and texture frame the fruit, which is supported by bright acidity and a ferrous grip that defines the finish. A superb Le Rognet from Clavelier and perhaps his finest since 2015.
CÔTE DE NUITS EXPLORE AND PURCHASE 2019 BURGUNDY EN PRIMEUR WINES AT JEROBOAMS.CO.UK 64 RED DRINK DATES CASE SIZE PRICE
2019 Gevrey Chambertin, Premier Cru Les Corbeaux 2026-2042 6 BTLS TBC
Bruno owns a small 0.22 hectare plot in Les Corbeaux, which is next door to the Mazis-Bas subsection of Grand Cru Mazis Chambertin. The oldest vines here are 70+ years old. The cool air current of the Combe de Lavaux always adds freshness to the wine, which combines red berry fruit with notes of lavender and earthy tones. The palate has a classic savouriness, plenty of substance provided by the tannins, which are mature but imposing at this early stage. The finish almost feels opulent due to the depth of the fruit, this is a classy and complex Les Corbeaux that has everything it needs for a long evolution.
2019 Vosne-Romanée, Premier Cru Beaux Monts 2025-2037 6 BTLS TBC
A 0.50 hectare plot planted in the 1940s and facing east. This vineyard catches the early morning sun but escapes the intensity of the glare of the afternoon sun. Crunchy red cherry fruit, with a whiff of herbs and a refreshingly sapid saline note on the finish. A superbly elegant and chiselled Premier Cru from Bruno in 2019.
2019 Vosne-Romanée, Les Hautes Maizières 2024-2034 6 BTLS TBC
Les Hautes Maizières sits under Premier Cru Les Suchots and borders Romanée-Saint-Vivant at one corner and Echézeaux Clos Saint Denis at another. The soil here is deeper, with clay lying over the same limestone subsoil that reappears in Mazis-Chambertin. Bruno has 0.48 hectares of 65-year-old vines. Darker berry fruits here, with that textbook Vosne spice and silkiness. This superbly sited lieu-dit always overperforms and the 2019 is particularly refined and appealing.
2019 Vosne-Romanée, La Combe Brûlée 2024-2037 6 BTLS TBC
La Combe Brûlée sits high on the slope above Premier Cru Aux Brûlées, looking downhill towards Grand Cru Richebourg. From vines planted in 1928, which benefit from the cool airflow from the combe. Roses and raspberries on the nose, with a sparked flint note adding tension. Peppery berry fruit on the palate, this is a cool toned and lively Vosne village lieu- dit that is already seamlessly well integrated.
2019 Chambolle-Musigny, Premier Cru Les Noirots 2025-2039 6 BTLS TBC
Premier Cru Les Noirots is underneath Bonnes Mares and Bruno’s plot is a mixture of 45-, 65- and 85-year-old vines. This under-the-radar vineyard offers the best of both worlds, combining the fruit and immediate charm of Chambolle Musigny with some of the power and structure of Bonne Mares’ Terre Rouges. Plenty of raspberry and cherry fruit on the nose, with pressed flowers and crushed stones. The palate is densely packed and powerful, with chocolatey tannins and pungent fruits. The finish is mineral, with a very appealing sour cherry bitterness that Bruno always attributes to the magnesium content in the soil.
CÔTE DE NUITS EXPLORE AND PURCHASE 2019 BURGUNDY EN PRIMEUR WINES AT JEROBOAMS.CO.UK 65 Domaine Drouhin-Laroze
Philippe Drouhin’s grandparents astutely invested in Grand Cru land whenever the best parcels became available, creating holdings that would be impossible to achieve in the modern era. As a result, Drouhin-Laroze has vineyards in some of the best sites in the Côte de Nuits and 40% of their holdings are Grand Cru. The new generation at the domaine, Caroline and Nicolas, have continued to build upon and refine the great work of their parents and grandparents, with the domaine now established amongst the top tier in Gevrey. We can only agree with Neal Martin’s estimation of the domaine: “Wonderful, life-affirming, quite cerebral wines in the making. Given the enviable, glittering array of holdings, trust me, Drouhin-Laroze could rapidly be up there with the very best, alongside the likes of, say, Rousseau or Mortet.”
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2019 Gevrey-Chambertin Dix Climats 2023-2033 6 BTLS £195
A blend of 10 parcels from across Gevrey Chambertin, with 30% whole bunches. A fragrant and floral nose, with rose petals intertwined with the red berry fruits. The palate feels decidedly cool and airy, no excess heat here and the purity of the fruit shines through to the finish which is long and finessed. A super Gevrey Chambertin villages!
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CÔTE DE NUITS EXPLORE AND PURCHASE 2019 BURGUNDY EN PRIMEUR WINES AT JEROBOAMS.CO.UK 66 RED DRINK DATES CASE SIZE PRICE
2019 Morey St Denis, Très Girard 2023-2033 6 BTLS £195
Produced from a 0.18-hectare parcel of Morey-Saint-Denis located at the top part of the ‘En Très Girard’ lieu-dit, planted in 1946. 100% whole bunch. A textbook Morey nose of damsons, rose petals and exotic spices, this is immediately appealing in the glass. A richly textured palate has ample tannins but they are stylish and mature, with hints of Turkish Delight releasing the tension on the finish, this punches well above its weight.
2019 Gevrey-Chambertin, Premier Cru Clos Prieur 2024-2037 6 BTLS £350
Drouhin Laroze own a 0.30 hectare plot of this excellent Premier Cru, which is located in between Grand Crus Mazis and Chapelle Chambertin. The majority of the vines were planted in 1954, with a section replanted in 2003. Darkly fruited and savoury, with a stong earthy, mineral note. The tannins have excellent refinement, with bright acidity adding clarity to the long and assured finish.
2019 Bonnes-Mares, Grand Cru 2025-2050 6 BTLS £795
Drouhin-Laroze own a 1.5-hectare parcel of Bonnes Mares on the Chambolle-Musigny side of the Grand Cru. 50% whole bunches. Meaty, almost peaty on the nose, this is darkly brooding and spicy. The palate is saturated with pure red and black fruits, with wonderfully ripe tannins and the perfect amount of acidity to keep everything in check. After the exuberance of the mid-palate the finish mirrors the nose, dark and earthy with a profoundly ferrous grip. This is the classic iron first in a velvet glove.
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2019 Chambertin Clos de Bèze, Grand Cru 2025-2050 6 BTLS £795
Originally belonging to the monks of the Bèze abbey, vines have been planted here since as early as 630 AD. Drouhin-Laroze own a 1.5-hectare parcel, planted in 1949. 30% whole bunches in 2019. This has been a contender for our wine of the vintage every year since 2016, and on this showing it will be on the podium again this year. Wonderfully focused on the nose, much more in the red fruit spectrum, exuding class and discreet power. The palate feels vertical rather than the expansive horizontal nature of the Bonnes- Mares, blue and red fruits mingle with tingling acidity and tannins creating an overall sensation of harmony and class. Whisper it, this might be the best Clos de Bèze Drouhin- Laroze have ever made.
CÔTE DE NUITS EXPLORE AND PURCHASE 2019 BURGUNDY EN PRIMEUR WINES AT JEROBOAMS.CO.UK 67 Domaine Denis Mortet
Arnaud Mortet is one of the stars of Burgundy and his success owes much to his meticulous attention to detail in the vineyard. He employs 14 people working 13 hectares, a ratio that allows great attention to detail and fine-tuning. These are some of the finest and most in-demand wines of the vintage.
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2019 Bourgogne Rouge, Cuvée de Noble Souche 2022-2030 6 BTLS £160
The vines for this out-of-category Bourgogne come from the plateau at Daix, near Marsannay. It’s a relatively high altitude site, bringing freshness and purity, and the old vines and low yields add uncommon depth and charm.
2019 Marsannay, Les Longeroies 2023-2033 6 BTLS £195
Les Longeroies means ‘to border’, and the vineyard is on the boundary between Marsannay and the next village of Chenôve. It’s one of the best vineyards in Marsannay and surely a candidate for Premier Cru status should such a thing happen. In Arnaud’s hands the results are rather special, with juicy red berry fruits, creamy texture, and bright acidity.
CÔTE DE NUITS EXPLORE AND PURCHASE 2019 BURGUNDY EN PRIMEUR WINES AT JEROBOAMS.CO.UK 68 Domaine Hudelot-Baillet
The domaine was created in 1981 by Joël Hudelot, who combined vines from his wife, Chantal Baillet, and his father, Paul. Joël retired in 2004, passing along the reins to his son- in-law Dominique Leguen. Dominique was born in Brittany and had a career in the French air force prior to becoming a winemaker. He has quietly transformed the domaine, moving from big, powerful wines to Burgundy of elegance and finesse – exactly what we look for in Chambolle-Musigny. These wines have been on our radar for some time and we’re delighted to offer them En Primeur for the first time in 2019.
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2019 Hautes Côtes de Nuits Blanc 2021-2025 6 BTLS £95
The Bourgogne Hautes Côtes de Nuits Blanc comes from two parcels planted in 1997 and 1999. The nose is inviting, with lemon peel and green mango – appetising and a step above your average Bourgogne nose. The palate combines roundness of fruit with a surprising depth of mineral intensity; the finish is lightly honeyed and saline at the last.
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2019 Bourgogne Pinot Noir 2021-2025 6 BTLS £95
From two different parcels totalling 1.19 hectares. Half is from 40+ year-old vines from the outskirts of the village of Chambolle and the other half from Gilly, just over the national road. Here the oldest vines are 70+ years old. Crushed strawberries and crunchy cherries, with appealing floral highlights. Silky texture on the palate, this is all about vibrancy and immediate appeal.
2019 Bourgogne Passetoutgrains 2021-2025 6 BTLS £95
The Passetoutgrain is a 50/50 blend of Pinot Noir from Chambolle and Gamay from Gilly- lès-Cîteaux. Blue fruit and violet perfume, very vivid and expressive! Supple tannins and fine acidity complete the structure of this delicious and fresh Passetoutgrain.
2019 Chambolle Musigny 2022-2031 6 BTLS £250
Produced from an assemblage of plots from around the village where the vines are under 50 years of age (often not by much!) The combination of seductive fruit and fresh florals creates a charming Chambolle villages that offers some of the flamboyance of a warmer vintage like 2018 with the ‘Chambolle’ quality of cooler vintages like 2014 and 2017.
CÔTE DE NUITS EXPLORE AND PURCHASE 2019 BURGUNDY EN PRIMEUR WINES AT JEROBOAMS.CO.UK 69 RED DRINK DATES CASE SIZE PRICE
2019 Chambolle Musigny Vieilles Vignes 2024-2035 6 BTLS £295
This wine is a selection of 50–75-year-old vines from the domaine’s plots from around the village. A darker and more finely detailed nose than the village wine, with subtle rose petals and orange zest. The depth of fruit and the freshness of that fruit is impressive, a finely boned Chambolle that nudges Premier Cru quality.
2019 Chambolle Musigny Premier Cru Charmes 2025-2038 3 BTLS £250
A blend of two parcels in Charmes, with 60 and 70 year old vines. An additional layer of complexity over the Vieilles Vignes, with a greater volume of more discreet tannins and mineral-soaked black cherry fruit.
2019 Chambolle Musigny Premier Cru Les Borniques 2025-2038 3 BTLS £295
Les Borniques Premier Cru is adjacent to both Musigny Grand Cru and Premier Les Amoureuses. Just a couple of barrels are typically made here, which used to be blended into the Vieilles Vignes until it was decided to bottle them separately. Much more in the red fruit spectrum than the Cras, with rose petal and peony top notes. Supple tannins and a stony texture define the finish.
Domaine Aurélien Verdet
We’ve had these wines on our radar for a few years now and are delighted to offer them En Primeur for the first time. Aurélien Verdet’s father was one of the pioneers of organic viticulture in the 1970s and Aurélien has run the domaine since his father’s retirement in 2005. He has spent time working with David Duband and some of that influence is felt here. Aurélien uses minimal sulphur and favours long vinifications with whole bunches, gentle extractions and little new oak. The Hautes-Côtes are rightly being highlighted for producing some of Burgundy’s most exciting and affordable wines today, and Aurélien was named by The Wine Advocate’s William Kelley as amongst its most promising emerging talents.
CÔTE DE NUITS EXPLORE AND PURCHASE 2019 BURGUNDY EN PRIMEUR WINES AT JEROBOAMS.CO.UK 70 RED DRINK DATES CASE SIZE PRICE
2019 Bourgogne Hautes-Côtes de Nuits Le Prieuré 2022-2032 6 BTLS £100
Le Prieuré is the heart of the domaine, a 4.5 hectare south facing slope that has been certified organic since 1971. It is high in the hills above Nuits-Saint-Georges, and is another compelling example of the quality that can be produced in the Hautes-Côtes in 2019. Vibrant red cherry and blueberry fruits, crunchy and refreshing. The floral tones are particularly brilliant here, with peonies and cooking spices adding complexity. The palate is immediately engaging, sapid and mouth-watering, with bright acidity and silky tannins cushioning the fruit. This will drink on release but could be cellared with absolute confidence for a decade. Terrific value here and one of our happiest discoveries of the vintage.
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2019 Nuits-Saint-Georges ‘Les Hauts Pruliers’ 2023-2035 6 BTLS £250
This lieu-dit is immediately above Premier Cru Les Pruliers, high on the slopes towards the tree line. This is a wonderfully located vineyard, looking down over the town and facing east. The combination of altitude and exposure has resulted in a particularly bracing and impressive wine, much more in the airy red fruit spectrum and lifted by floral tones. The palate has fine definition, with that classic spine of Nuits that is finessed in 2019 with forest fruits and sous-bois notes.
2019 Vosne Romanée 2023-2034 6 BTLS £285
Aurélien has farmed these plots under a fermage agreement since 2009 and they are certified organic. He has 0.72 hectares in total over four plots: Les Ormes, La Colombière, Jacquelines, and Ravioles. The textbook Vosne perfume here, with lifted dark fruits and florals. The palate is silky and refreshing, plenty of depth in the middle but the overall feel is lively and balanced. Vosne Romanée village wines have perhaps never been better than in 2019 and this is another superb example.
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2019 Morey-Saint-Denis Premier Cru, Les Monts Luisants 2025-2038 6 BTLS £420
Premier Cru Les Monts Luisants is immediately above Grand Cru Clos de la Roche, at a similar position to the upper part of the Clos des Lambrays. This is one of the most interesting vineyards in the Côte de Nuits and is co-planted with white grapes, including the Aligoté that Ponsot use to produce their Monts Luisants Blanc. Verdet’s 2019 is high- toned, with fresh cherries and perfume in the glass. Very fine transparency here, you can really feel the terroir and everything is impeccably balanced. This finely-boned Premier Cru should age well in the cellar.
CÔTE DE NUITS EXPLORE AND PURCHASE 2019 BURGUNDY EN PRIMEUR WINES AT JEROBOAMS.CO.UK 71
CHABLIS
Chablis
Tonnerre
Irancy Auxerre Chablis
Great Chablis has an extraordinary blend of power masked by a nervy minerality and is a truly unique style. Nowhere else manages to make Chardonnay of such austerity, yet also generosity and age worthiness. No serious cellar is complete without it.
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CHABLIS EXPLORE AND PURCHASE 2019 BURGUNDY EN PRIMEUR WINES AT JEROBOAMS.CO.UK 74 Domaine William Fèvre
The Fèvre estate totals 51 hectares, and with 16 hectares of Premier Cru and 15 hectares of Grand Cru, they are the largest owner of Premier and Grand Cru vineyards. Tasting their range En Primeur is always a reference point for the region as these are wonderful expressions of their terroirs, classically styled and precise.
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2019 Chablis, Premier Cru Montmains 2022-2030 6 BTLS £175
Fèvre’s left bank Premier Cru Montmains is a blend of three sub-climats that are blended together: Butteaux, Les Fôrets, and Montmains. The plots face south east, with the Butteaux proportion providing freshness and tension. Riper orange zest on the nose, but the palate remains firmly mineral, with classic oyster shell notes and excellent depth on the finish. Another terrific success from the Left Bank in 2019.
2019 Chablis, Premier Cru, Les Lys 2022-2030 6 BTLS £195
We are pleased to again have exclusivity in the UK on Les Lys, a sub-climat of Vaillons that could be blended and bottled under that name but Fèvre choose to bottle separately. Fèvre have two parcels of 65-year-old vines, whose north-facing aspect is becoming prized in warmer vintages. A particularly mineral and saline expression, with citrus fruits and a bracingly chalky finish. This lesser-known Premier Cru is highly recommended.
2019 Chablis, Premier Cru, Montée de Tonnerre 2023-2033 6 BTLS £250
Right bank Premier Cru Montée de Tonnerre is located directly to the right of Grand Cru Les Clos, and Fèvre’s 2.24 hectares are a mixture of three different parcels: Chapelot, Côte de Bréchain and Pied d’Aloup. Each plot has a different aspect, but they all share the same Kimmeridgian clay soil and the vines are old. This most celebrated of all the Premier Crus is on barnstorming form in 2019, with a superb purity of stone and orchard fruits that wrap around a piercingly mineral core.
2019 Chablis, Premier Cru, Vaulorent 2023-2033 6 BTLS £280
Vaulorent is the southernmost sub-climat of Fourchaume on the Right Bank, and is the only Premier Cru that is a true continuation of the Grand Cru slopes. Not well known, it’s qualitatively one of the best Premiers and can rival the likes of Grand Cru Preuses and Bougros. Fresh white peach and yellow orchard fruits, spiked with white flowers and a wisp of smoke. The palate is just over medium bodied, very harmonious, with a satiny texture and excellent depth of minerals at the core.
CHABLIS EXPLORE AND PURCHASE 2019 BURGUNDY EN PRIMEUR WINES AT JEROBOAMS.CO.UK 75 WHITE DRINK DATES CASE SIZE PRICE
2019 Chablis, Grand Cru, Bougros 2023-2036 6 BTLS £290
Bourgros is Fèvre’s largest Grand Cru holding, with 6 hectares they own half of the total surface area. Four hectares are used for this cuvée, with the remaining 2 bottled separately as Côte Bougros. Facing south west on the flatter portion of the Cru, Bougros is often the most expressive and approachable of the Grand Crus. The 2019 is intensely and pungently fruited, with aromas of passion fruit and citrus peel. With ample hot stones minerality on the palate, this is an impressive and serious Bougros with a grippy finish that has plenty of dry extract.
2019 Chablis, Grand Cru, Vaudésir 2023-2037 6 BTLS £390
Vaudésir is the warmest spot in Chablis, and Fèvre’s 2019 is typically opulent, with clementine and ginger arcing across the nose and the palate. Full bodied, with a satiny texture and notes of honeycomb, but the core of acidity and minerals keeps everything fresh and focused through to the finish.
2019 Chablis, Grand Cru, Les Preuses 2024-2038 6 BTLS £410
Fèvre are the only estate with vines on both the south west and south east slopes, giving a complete expression of the terroir. The nose is immediately engaging, with complex notes of yellow plum and orange zest. The palate combines the fruit opulence of Bougros with a piercing, mineral quality that demands attention. The finish leisurely lingers in the mouth with a saline steeliness.
2019 Chablis, Grand Cru, Bougros, Côte Bouguerots 2024-2038 6 BTLS £420
Côte Bouguerots is in the steepest, rockiest part of Bourgros, Fèvre have 2 hectares in two plots and they have produced this cuvée separately since 1998. Slate and oysters on the nose, this is piercingly mineral and spicy on the palate. There is admirable energy and tension here, with almond notes adding depth on the mid-palate. So salty on the finish, this is a taut and gripping Grand Cru that is a fitting interpretation of this great terroir.
2019 Chablis, Grand Cru, Les Clos 2025-2040 6 BTLS £510
The most famous of all the Grand Crus, Fèvre have 4.11 hectares divided across 8 plots on the cooler upper slopes. The vines are old, with 50% planted in the 1940s on shallow soil that contains less clay and a high proportion of Kimmeridgian oyster shells. Facetiously, Les Clos is Fèvre’s most disappointing wine at this early stage because it gives so little away. Wrapped up tightly, you can feel the latent power and breeding here. Subtle quince fruit, and honeysuckle, very linear and focused with remarkable acidity that shrugs off the warmth of the season. Wonderful.
CHABLIS EXPLORE AND PURCHASE 2019 BURGUNDY EN PRIMEUR WINES AT JEROBOAMS.CO.UK 76 Domaine Billaud-Simon
Since Faiveley’s purchase of the domaine in 2014, winemaker Olivier Bailly has been working closely with Faiveley’s Technical Director, Jérôme Flous. Slightly earlier picking and reduced percentages of new oak have led to more refined wines, which have never been better than today. Oliver describes their 2019s as, “Fresh, rich and beautifully ripe. Good concentration yet without any loss of acidity on the palate. They have excellent cellaring potential.”
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2019 Chablis, Tête d’Or 2022-2028 6 BTLS £100
Chablis Golden Head, as we are fond of calling it, is a blend of two parcels located on the southern slopes at the foot of Montée de Tonnerre. The 2019 is on fine form, with ripe yellow stone fruits and citrus peel. The palate is particularly impressive, this is a clear step up from your average Chablis village in terms of weight and texture, with a ginger spiced note on the finish that is very appealing.
2019 Chablis, Premier Cru, Mont de Milieu 2023-2031 6 BTLS £150
A blend of 4 parcels of 35+ year old vines, with the oldest vines dating back to 1952. All of the different aspects and altitudes of Mont de Milieu are represented. A vineyard with high maturity potential, this is open and expressive with orchard fruits and confit citrus notes. The palate remains bracingly fresh, with smoky, spicy flavours adding nuance and a pleasing generosity of mineral-spiked fruit. The finish has excellent tension and a hot stone minerality.
2019 Chablis, Premier Cru, Montée de Tonnerre 2024-2035 6 BTLS £165
Billaud-Simon have two parcels at the top of Montée de Tonnerre (Côte de Bréchain and Pied d’Aloup) and one at the bottom in Chapelot. They own 2.15 hectares in total. A vibrant nose, with mandarin and fresh lime on the initial attack. The palate reveals excellent terroir transmission, with smoky, mineral notes and a touch of stem ginger adding complexity. The finish is bracingly fresh and mineral, with the tangy salinity that is the hallmark of this great Premier Cru.
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2019 Chablis, Grand Cru, Les Preuses 2025-2039 6 BTLS £285
A 0.41-hectare parcel, planted in 1952, which represents the oldest vineyard holdings of the domaine. Olivier’s favourite Grand Cru, it doesn’t have the weight or power of Les Clos, but it is perhaps the most refined and persistent in length. Wet pebbles, flint, subtle citrus and orchard fruits on the nose. The palate is bracingly saline and nervy, there’s a touch of honeysuckle and a more exotic lemongrass flavour adding complexity, but this is dominated by texture and minerals at this early stage, with a cool, maritime finish. Very fine.
2019 Chablis, Grand Cru, Vaudésir 2025-2035 6 BTLS £295
Billaud-Simon have three parcels, totalling 0.49 hectares, and two of those are from the later ripening north west sector of the Grand Cru. Yellow plum to the fore, refreshing by zesty grapefruit notes. The palate is classic Chablis territory, sleek and racy with a touch of seaspray and flinty, mineral notes. Very refined, with just a wisp of spice on the finish.
Domaine Samuel Billaud
Having made wine at Billaud-Simon for 20 vintages, Samuel Billaud set out to follow his own path following the sale of the family domaine to Faiveley. Samuel’s wines have reached new levels since completing his own modern winery in the heart of Chablis and, for our money, these are some of the most exciting wines being made in Chablis today. Samuel described 2019 with one of our favourite, and un-translatable words, gourmand.
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2019 Bourgogne d’Or 2021-2026 12 BTLS £120
A new wine for us this year, and a fine example of new wave winemaking in Burgundy. Samuel blends 50% Chardonnay from around Chablis with 50% Chardonnay from a friend of his in the Maconnais – you can taste the steeliness from the Chablis fruit, which is fleshed out by the warmer fruit from the south. A delicious, and unusual composition, which is far greater than the sum of its parts. Already finished in bottle, this is great value and will provide immediate pleasure upon delivery.
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2019 Petit Chablis 2021-2027 12 BTLS £120
The Petit Chablis sit at the bottom of the Chablis hierarchy, and the soil types and quality are variable, but Samuel’s comes from a vineyard directly above Grand Cru Les Clos, on a mixture of kimmeridgian and portlandian soil. Citrus fruits and lime oil, this is rather serious for its level, with mineral notes and a spray of seasalt on the finish. Samuel notes that it’s a windy terroir and this adds both freshness and concentration.
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2019 Chablis, Premier Cru Vaillons 2023-2033 12 BTLS £250
Samuel’s vieilles vignes are 70 years old, and come from the Le Vaillon sub-climat of the larger Vaillons Cru. The initial attack is friendly, with fresh white peach and flowers, yellow orchard fruits and citrus peel. The palate is more serious, with bright acidity adding focus and a wonderful salinity on the finish.
2019 Chablis, Premier Cru Séchet Vieilles Vignes 2024-2036 12 BTLS £300
A 0.60-hectare parcel of 70-80 year old vines planted on old Chablis rootstock, that used to belong to Samuel’s great-grandmother and is particularly close to his heart. Samuel describes Séchet as the Montée de Tonnerre of the Left Bank, which is considerable praise! It could be included under the Vaillons umbrella, but Samuel bottles separately because of its tension and minerality. Intitally quieter on the nose than Vaillons, with less immediate fruit. Very mineral, with chalk and oyster shell to the fore. Séchet remains largely under the radar, despite the efforts of great producers such as Samuel and Dauvissat. Snap this one up for the cellar.
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2019 Chablis, Premier Cru Montée de Tonnerre 2024-2036 TBC £300
Two plots of 50+ year old vines totalling 0.45 hectares, one at the top of the Chapelot sub-climat and one in Montée de Tonnerre itself. Tightly wound at this early stage, with a subtle flinty, smoky note that evolves into a salty maritime tang. Excellent definition and tension on the palate, combining citrus and minerals with riper orchard fruits and a hint of croissant adding richness. There’s a refreshing hit of quinine on the finish, which is reassuringly long.
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2019 Chablis, Grand Cru Blanchots 2025-2038 6 BTLS £300
Samuel’s Blanchots comes from 40+ year old vines at the eastern extremity of the Grand Cru, at the border with Les Clos. Elegance and complexity here, with citrus and apricot fruit, flinty mineral notes and a refreshing spray of clementine juice. Intense on the palate, this has acidity and minerality to spare. The finish is expansive, this has superb potential.
2019 Chablis, Grand Cru Bougros 2025-2038 6 BTLS £300
Bougros is at the North West extremity of the Grand Crus, with the steepest slopes, and has a remarkable South facing exposition. Samuel’s plot is 35 years old, at the top corner where it joins Preuses. Aged only in oak, but in larger 450L barrels. Riper citrus and stone fruits that are brought into clarity by a subtle reductive smoky note. The palate is that word gourmand again, edging towards opulence of fruit but brought back into focus by a strong seam of acidity and mineral notes. The finish lingers with struck match and flint.
CHABLIS EXPLORE AND PURCHASE 2019 BURGUNDY EN PRIMEUR WINES AT JEROBOAMS.CO.UK 80 Domaine Louis Moreau
The Moreau family have been making wine in Chablis since 1814, while Louis founded the domaine in 1994. Organic since 2004, he owns parcels in four of Chablis’ seven Grand Crus, including the Hospices monopole within Les Clos. Louis looks for clarity and expression of terroir from each site, and the wines are vinified 100% in steel tank to preserve the freshness and expression of terroir.
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2019 Chablis Premier Cru, Vaillons 2023-2032 6 BTLS £125
A blend of three plots, Roncières, Les Lys, and Chatains, with an average age of 50-years. South-facing vines on kimmeridgian soil. Yellow plums and apricots are refreshed by citrus notes and a subtle touch of honeysuckle on the finish. The top left bank Premier Crus are a must buy in 2019 and this one of the best value examples.
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2019 Chablis Grand Cru, Les Clos 2024-2038 6 BTLS £250
Produced from a three-hectare plot planted in 1958 and 1968 on the upper slopes and adjacent to the plot of Jean-Paul & Benoît Droin. Made 100% in tank since the 2013 vintage, allowing the purity and precision of this great Grand Cru to shine. Quince and marmalade on the nose, the initial suggestion is of opulence but the palate remains bracingly steely and sapid. The finish is long and distinguished, with ethereal poise.
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2019 Chablis Grand Cru, Clos des Hospices dans les Clos 2024-2038 6 BTLS £295
The Clos des Hospices is owned exclusively by the Moreau family, located towards the bottom of Les Clos. It was acquired by Louis’ great-great-grandfather from the Hôpital de Chablis in 1904. There is less chalk and more clay in this part of Les Clos, and the wine is correspondingly fuller and richer in style. Peaches, yellow plum and subtle spices, this is a fantastic contrast to the main Les Clos bottling and highlights the diversity of terroir in this most famous of Grand Crus. With a touch of brioche on the impressively precise and powerful finish, Chablis connoisseurs will want to tuck cases of the Clos and the Hospices away in the cellar for future comparison.
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CHABLIS EXPLORE AND PURCHASE 2019 BURGUNDY EN PRIMEUR WINES AT JEROBOAMS.CO.UK 81 Patrick Piuze
Patrick was born in Quebec and has travelled the world making wine. In the summer of 2000, Patrick backpacked around Burgundy, and serendipitously joined the team at Olivier Leflaive for the harvest. He was then entrusted with their Chablis winery, before further refining his skills at La Maison Verget and taking the cellar master role at Chablis’ Jean-Marc Brocard. Patrick took a leap of faith in 2008 and founded his own winery. He doesn’t own vineyards but has established partnerships with growers that enable him to pick the best lots in Chablis. Patrick was one of the later pickers in 2019, starting on the 14th September. He favours the traditional methods, and presses firmly to capture extract using a mechanical press. The wines are matured using a combination of old oak barrels and stainless steel.
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2019 Chablis Terroir de Fyé 2021-2029 12 BTLS £190
This is Piuze’s top Right Bank lieu-dit, from a plot on the lower part of the Chapelot sub- section of Premier Cru Montée de Tonnerre that isn’t permitted the Premier Cru appellation.
2019 Chablis Terroir de Courgis 2021-2029 12 BTLS £190
This Chablis villages plot on the left bank is always one of the finest wines in its classification. According to Patrick the soil has a higher percentage of clay than most other vineyards, and it is typically the last plot to be harvested. He notes that this ages well and the exuberance of fruit integrates nicely as the wine evolves.
2019 Chablis Premier Cru Les Forêts 2023-2035 6 BTLS £200
This subsection of Montmains is one of the top sites on the left bank. The vines gain concentration from the cool winds that blow across the vineyard before harvest.
2019 Chablis Premier Cru Les Séchets 2023-2036 6 BTLS £200
This subsection of Vaillons is on limestone soil and made from vines planted in the late 1950s. 2017 was the debut vintage at Piuze, from a plot that Patrick has long coveted.
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2019 Chablis Premier Cru Vaulorent 2023-2036 6 BTLS £220
Vaulorent is the southernmost sub-climat of Fourchaume on the Right Bank, and is the only Premier Cru that is a true continuation of the Grand Cru slopes.
2019 Chablis Grand Cru Les Bougros 2024-2037 6 BTLS £260
Of all the Grand Crus, Bougros often reveals the most open-knit and voluptuous fruit character, but with less of the mineral spine that defines the other Grand Crus.
Domaine Jean-Paul and Benoît Droin
Benoît Droin is the 14th generation producing wine in Chablis, and he combines that heritage with a curiosity and dynamism to great effect. Benoît likens Chablis to Champagne in the sense that for both regions it is important to limit maturity. He is steadfast in his vision to create Chablis rather than Chardonnay, and his 2019s are a leading example of the steely, nervy school of tension.
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2019 Chablis, Premier Cru, Fourchaume 2023-2036 6 BTLS £156
Droin’s Fourchaume is a blend of Fourchaume itself and the Vaulorent sub-section that abuts the Grand Crus. A very mineral nose, there is some steeliness here! The palate is amply fruited with spicy peach and melon, but the acidity is bracing and there’s a mineral, saline note at the finish that pulls everything together nicely.
2019 Chablis, Premier Cru, Mont de Milieu 2023-2035 6 BTLS £156
Mont de Milieu is a south facing, sunny site and Droin’s vines have an average age of 40+ years. The nose is open, with white peach, apricot and honeysuckle. Always the most approachable of Droin’s Premier Crus, in 2019 it’s particularly charming and expressive.
2019 Chablis, Premier Cru, Montée de Tonnerre 2024-2037 6 BTLS £168
From the Côte de Bréchain section at the top of Montée de Tonnerre. Silex and flint on the nose, this has very classic aromas fleshed out with some white peach and apricot. Excellent depth on the palate, with a profoundly saline, mineral finish.
2019 Chablis, Grand Cru, Vaudésir 2026-2041 6 BTLS £264
Droin have vines facing both south and north on either side of the amphitheatre, with a total of 1.0491 hectares and 35+ year old vines. Benoît describes Vaudésir as like “Corton Charlemagne” and that seems like an appropriate reference point. Peach and apple blossom initially, with a strong spine of acidity and a steely, mineral finish.
2019 Chablis, Grand Cru, Valmur 2026-2041 6 BTLS £265
A 1.03 hectare parcel facing south west, with relatively young vines planted 15 years ago and now producing excellent quality. An inward and brooding Valmur at this stage, there is more than a hint of Bâtard Montrachet here. Wet stones and flinty reduction, this is much more about texture and potential than overt fruit at this stage.
2019 Chablis, Grand Cru, Grenouille 2025-2038 6 BTLS £300
Grenouilles is the smallest and rarest of the seven Chablis Grand Cru climats, located in the middle of the hill that hosts all of the Grand Cru vineyards, sandwiched between Valmur and Vaudésir. Grenouille means frog, referring to the vineyard’s frequent amphibian visitors. With a south and south west exposure, the sunny site gives plenty of stone fruits, orange peel, and honeyed notes. This will be approachable relatively young, being rather more rounded than linear in style, with plump fruits and a satiny texture.
2019 Chablis, Grand Cru, Les Clos 2027-2043 6 BTLS £300
“Les Clos c’est Les Clos” muses Benoît, which feels like enough of a tasting note! Droin have 1.4 hectares, divided into three parcels from the top, middle and bottom. The nose is steely and taut, with flint, struck match, citrus and stone fruit characters. The palate has a marvellous purity of stone and citrus fruits, reined in by fresh acidity and a silky texture on the finish.
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